I’ve always been drawn to blue hydrangeas. As the rarest color in the plant world, blue adds an enchanting quality to the garden that’s hard to replicate with any other flowering shrub. So when I first planted one in my yard, I was so disappointed when the vivid blue blooms were gradually replaced by pink as the plant acclimatized to my soil. The flowers were beautiful and abundant, but not the look I was hoping for.

The following year, I set out to learn how to change hydrangea color from pink to blue. But along the way, I stumbled across an even more intriguing idea: instead of choosing one or the other, you can encourage a single hydrangea to produce blooms in pink, purple, and blue at the same time, creating a striking tie-dye effect.

The trick comes down to soil chemistry, and, with a bit of good hydrangea care, it's actually very simple to try yourself. There is one important catch, however. It only works with certain hydrangea varieties, particularly Hydrangea macrophylla (aka bigleaf or mophead hydrangeas). If you have one in your yard, this easy technique could reward you with the most eye-catching hydrangea display you've ever grown.

What Causes Hydrangeas to Change Color?

Mophead hydrangea color is influenced partly by the cultivar, as some are bred to have an enhanced ability to bloom with pink, blue, and purple flowers simultaneously. However, it's mostly impacted by soil pH and how much aluminum the plant can absorb from the soil. In acidic soil, hydrangeas can absorb more aluminum through their roots, producing blue flowers, while in alkaline soil, aluminum becomes less available, resulting in pink blooms. When soil conditions fall somewhere in between, flowers often emerge in shades of purple and lavender.

If you're not sure of your soil pH, it's worth testing it before attempting to change flower color. For a quick reading, pH test strips such as these from Dewilde Trading Co can help you determine whether your soil is acidic or alkaline. If you've never tested your soil before, however, a comprehensive kit is a better investment. Our Content Editor Kathleen recently reviewed the MySoil Soil Test Kit – which is available to purchase from Amazon – and found it gave a much more complete picture of soil pH and nutrient levels.

Depending on soil pH, you can generally expect the following flower colors:

• pH 5.5 and below: Blue blooms – acidic soil allows hydrangeas to absorb aluminum
• pH 5.6–6.5: Purple and lavender blooms – a transitional state between blue and pink
• pH 6.6 and above: Pink blooms – alkaline soil limits access to aluminum

For multicolor hydrangeas, you're not aiming for a single pH across the entire root zone. Instead, you need to create slightly different soil conditions around different parts of the plant, encouraging a mix of blue, purple, and pink blooms.

How to Create Multicolor Hydrangeas

Rather than trying to make the entire planting area acidic or alkaline, the secret to growing pink, purple and blue blooms on the same hydrangea is to create slightly different soil conditions around different parts of the root system. This will encourage some roots to access more aluminum than others.

If your soil is alkaline, apply an acidifying amendment such as Hoffman’s Blue Magic Aluminum Sulfate to one side of the plant, following the manufacturer's instructions. This will gradually lower the soil pH and increase aluminum availability, encouraging blue flowers. Leave the opposite side untreated.

Conversely, if your soil is naturally acidic, lightly amend it with garden lime, such as these Earth Science Fast-Acting Lime Granules from Amazon, to maintain more alkaline conditions that favor pink blooms.

As the hydrangea's roots spread through these different soil environments, the plant can produce flowers in multiple shades at once.

What Colors to Expect?

Some stems may carry blue blooms, while others produce pink flowers, with plenty of purple and lavender tones appearing in between.

Patience is key, however. Hydrangea flower color won't change overnight, and the most dramatic results usually appear the following flowering season once the plant has had time to respond to the changing soil conditions. The reward is a unique, tie-dye effect that looks far more complex than the simple soil tweak behind it.

Try Growing a Tie-Dye Container Hydrangea

If you want to try this technique, growing your hydrangea in a container is often the easiest option. Pots give you far more control over soil conditions than a garden border, where pH levels can vary, and amendments are quickly diluted by the surrounding soil.

Fill part of the container with ericaceous compost to create more acidic conditions, and leave the rest of the potting mix closer to neutral. This will encourage different parts of the root system to access different soils, increasing your chances of producing a mix of blue, purple, and pink blooms on the same plant.

As a general rule, the larger the container, the easier it is to provide differing soils, and will give the hydrangea plenty of room to grow and flower abundantly. It’s also more important to fertilize hydrangeas in pots – this Gardenwise Slow Release Hydrangea Fertilizer from Amazon feeds plants and helps acidify soil.

Shop Multicolored Hydrangeas

These stunning hydrangea varieties are more predisposed to displaying multicolor blooms.

While many gardeners focus on turning hydrangeas blue, the most beautiful blooms often appear somewhere in the middle. Soft lavenders, smoky mauves, and rich purples emerge when soil conditions sit between acidic and alkaline, creating shades that are often more unusual than either pink or blue alone – for a truly one-of-a-kind hydrangea that looks as though it has been painted in watercolors.

Painting your plant pots is such a quick way to give your garden a quick upgrade for summer. Whether you’ve got a collection of mismatched planters you’ve accumulated over the years, or you simply fancy a new look for your patio, painting pots is an enjoyable job for a sunny afternoon. And don’t worry a jot if you don’t have an artistic bone in your body: you’ll find plenty of ideas here to paint plant pots that are easy to create but seriously stylish. You can paint planters made of terracotta, plastic, resin and metal, and wooden planters too, so this is a lovely way to create a cohesive look in your yard.

You can make your design as simple or detailed as you like. Perhaps you’d like to streamline your planters so they’re all the same color, or maybe you fancy adding a bright rim to your terracotta pots. How about giving your pots a pastel chalky finish, or making a smart house-number container for your front yard?

As patio ideas go, painting pots is such an easy win. Combine your newly fabulous containers with some quick and clever DIY planter ideas and some low-maintenance plants that thrive in containers, and everyone will be impressed! So let's get started, shall we? Here's how to paint plant pots and get a great result, step by step. I've added product links so you know exactly what you need, but do support your local retailers too.

1. Thoroughly Clean and Dry the Pots

Your first job is to give the pots a good scrub with warm soapy water and a stiff brush or scouring pad, then rinse. If pots have any white mineral deposits, use sandpaper first to smooth. Drying the pots is just as important. Terracotta is porous so it’s best to leave this to dry for at least 24 hours.

2. Prep the Pots for Painting

If your pots have a glossy finish, whether they’re made of plastic, resin or metal, lightly sand all over with 180 grit sandpaper, such as this from Amazon, and wipe off the dust. This creates a scuffed, slightly rough surface that the paint can adhere to.

Painting a terracotta pot? These don't need sanding but you must seal them inside and out. Terracotta is porous so if you skip this stage, moisture will seep from the soil through the pot walls and cause the paint to peel. Use FolkArt All-Purpose Sealer, available from Amazon, as it’s safe for use with plants. Using a flat synthetic brush such as this from Amazon, paint on two coats of sealer, inside and out, ensuring the first coat is dry before applying the second. Sealer can get sticky at it dries, so set your pot down on wax paper as you work.

3. Paint Your Pot

Use a product that’s a paint and primer in one, that’s suitable for exterior use. I recommend BEHR Premium Interior/Exterior Spray Paint and Primer, which adheres well to all sorts of surfaces including plastic, resin, terracotta, metal and wood. The standard paint is available in 38 colors and a range of finishes from matte to gloss. There are hammered, textured, metallic and faux stone options too, so you can find a paint that’ll perfectly match your garden style. The Home Depot has a great selection, priced $6.98 for a 12-ounce bottle, and $9.98 for a 11-ounce speciality finish.

This Oil Rubbed Bronze Satin finish gives a vintage look, or how about a Gold Gloss Hammered finish for a luxe vibe? If you want bright, then this Hidden Sea Glass turquoise is such a vibrant tone, or are you brave enough for Unmellow Yellow Gloss? Royal Purple Gloss will bring just as much drama but in a more subtle way, as will Ocean Abyss.

When spraying a pot, I find inserting a bamboo cane through the drainage hole saves me from getting a coat of paint too. Always spray outdoors, and protect the area well with an old sheet or cardboard. You’ll get best results with multiple thin coats, holding the spray can at 45° and constantly keeping it in motion – think about applying multiple short sweeps of color, rather than one long, continual spray.

Painters’ masking tape will help you create designs with different colors, but do use good-quality tape such as this from Amazon if you want clean, precise edges.

Check out all the ideas below for design inspo.

4. Add Details With Acrylic Paint

Acrylic paint designed for outdoor as well as indoor use can be used to add details. If you’re working with a terracotta pot, then you can apply acrylic paint directly to the pot without spraying it first. For other materials, it’s best to spray on an initial coat as the paint will act as a primer for the acrylic paint to adhere to.

Use synthetic or nylon artist's paintbrushes such as these from Amazon for best results.

An acrylic paint set such as this from Amazon with 18 59ml bottles of individual colors is an economical way to get a wide range of tones.

5. Apply a Protective Sealant

This step isn’t necessary if you’ve simply sprayed your pots with exterior-proof spray, but if you’ve used acrylic paint – especially if you’ve used it to cover the whole pot – then a protective topcoat of sealant will make your pots more durable. Use a spray-on clear acrylic sealant suitable for exterior use such as Aleene’s Acrylic Sealer, available from Amazon in matte, gloss and super-gloss finishes.

Apply two coats, ensuring that the first is dry before spraying on the second.

Leave your painted pot to fully cure for 48 hours before planting.

Paint-a-Pot Inspiration

All these 10 ideas are easy to achieve, even if you don't think you're much of an artist! Which one will suit your garden best?

Cohesive Color

Painting pots to match your garden furniture is such a great way to add a garden accent, especially if you also use plants like this fabulous geranium (pelargonium) in the same color. Or how about planting a clematis in a container painted to match the tone of its showstopper flowers?

House Number Planters

Making house-number planters to sit on your front step or outside your porch is both pretty and practical. These numbers have been marked out with masking tape, and the dainty flowers created by pressing a small artist’s paintbrush against the pot, so even if you don’t think you have an ounce of artistic ability, this project is easily achievable! This is a creative way to turn cheap bedding plants into a unique garden centerpiece and it's a quick job to switch in seasonal blooms so it always looks good.

Chalky Finish

Chalk-finish paint gives a wonderful textured matte finish that works really well to show off foliage and flowers, and brings interior vibes to help turn your deck into an outside living space without spending a fortune. BEHR Premium Interior/Exterior Spray Paint is available in a chalky super-matte finish and three tones from the range are suitable for exterior as well as interior use: Linen White, Chiffon Cream and Aged Grey are all stocked by The Home Depot.

Geometric Shapes

If you don't feel confident about creating a design with a paintbrush, then here's an idea that relies entirely on spray paint and masking tape. The geometric design is so striking and the trio of planters make a dramatic front yard addition.

Aged Effect

For an aged effect, apply a coat of a lighter tone paint over a darker toned paint. When fully dry, rub wire wool over the pot to remove some of the top coat. The key to getting a good result is to remove more paint from the areas that would naturally get more wear, such as the raised rim. Imagine using this technique to age a planter, then plugging its drainage hole with sealant to create a patio water feature with a solar-powered floating fountain: the perfect mix of vintage and modern.

Detailed Drawing

Acrylic paint pens make it easy to create more detailed patterns. Do make sure you choose markers that are suitable for outdoor as well as indoor use, though, such as these from Amazon. Acrylic markers make it straightforward to add words, too, so how about painting pots for your collection of herbs, each with the plant name written around the pot rim?

Bright Stripes

This stripy effect was achieved using masking tape. You’ll need to paint this in layers to get this overlapping effect, ensuring paint is fully dry before sticking tape on top. This would be a fun treatment if you're growing compact veggie varieties in containers, choosing colors that match the tones of whatever your harvest will be.

Paint Splatter Speckles

Try a paint-splatter effect by flicking paint from your paintbrush, with a solid band around the pot rim. This pretty effect would suit a solid-sided hanging basket so well, planted with trailing blooms.

Mosaic Effect

This mosaic pot is so appealing, yet it’s simple to achieve. The pot was given a coat of light-toned paint, then small blocks drawn on with pencil and filled in with paint. But what’s really clever is the addition of thin dark line along the base and right side of each ‘tile’, applied with a fine brush, to create a 3D effect.

Contract Pot Rims

Applying a deep angled band to the top of pots is such a simple idea, yet looks incredibly stylish. How about using this idea to turn that stash of old terracotta pots behind your shed into handy containers for gardening bits and bobs to DIY a garden storage upgrade?

Have fun painting your pots and creating a unique, characterful look for your garden.

Every spring, the situation got worse. Trays of needy seedlings cluttered the kitchen table and every windowsill and countertop was covered with baby plants, water stains and stray potting soil. Attempting to live among these temporary installations was difficult – a relentless cycle of rearranging, balancing, trying not to knock over pots and sacrificing comfort and space in the name of growing.

I desperately wanted a greenhouse so I could start my plants off safely outside, but I was on a limited budget and didn’t have much space on my vegetable plot either. Traditional glass and metal-framed structures were expensive new and buying one secondhand would involve paying big bucks for transportation as well as a complicated re-build on-site. Cheaper zip-up plastic options were too small or too flimsy for my needs.

I'd almost given up on my greenhouse dream, when I stumbled across the DIY Geodesic Dome Kit from Build With Hubs. It's a UK-based company, but the kit is available from Amazon US. At just $195, it was by far the cheapest option I’d found and the simple snap-together ball and socket connectors looked easy to use. As far as greenhouse ideas go, it looked promising. I ordered the greenhouse kit, bought some timber roof battens (just like these from Home Depot) from my local hardware store. It was time to build a greenhouse.

1. Prepping the Site

I began by levelling the ground where I wanted my greenhouse to be. This took longer than I’d expected because my vegetable plot is on a rather unhelpful slope! I flattened the site as best I could using a spade and rake, re-distributing soil to create a flat-enough base. With hindsight, I wish I’d spent a bit longer on this stage and done a better job of leveling – the door to my greenhouse still doesn't open smoothly due to the uneven ground it rests on.

Once the site was ready, I set about sawing some timber roof battens to the correct lengths. You can use any kind of sticks you like with this kit – some folk use hazel branches or broom handles – but I chose roof battens because they're affordable and already treated for exterior use. By using sticks of different lengths, you can create domes of different diameters and there’s a handy online stick calculator tool on the Build With Hubs website that helps you cut your wood to the correct lengths. I wanted a 3m diameter greenhouse, so needed 30 ‘short’ lengths of 731mm and 35 ‘long’ lengths of 839mm.

Once the timber was all cut-to-size, I used a cross-head screwdriver to attach the ‘ball’ fixtures to the ends of all the sticks.

2. Assembling the Dome

I built the dome following the kit instructions, starting from the ‘top’ – five roof battens and one connecting hub – then adding the hubs and sticks layer by layer until the dome shape was complete. This stage was surprisingly easy and quick, and it was satisfying seeing the shape emerge so fast. I was worried my limited DIY skills would hold me back, but the hubs were simple to click into place and my dome was done in next to no time.

3. Building the Base

I made a basic base using 10 cylindrical fence posts (like these from American Timber and Steel), which I hammered in to the ground in a circle, using the dome as a guide to position them.

Next, I recruited a group of kind and patient friends to help me lift the dome up onto the fence posts and hold it in place while I went around the structure, screwing the hubs to the tops of the posts.

4. Fixing the Panes to the Frame

I used clear UV-resistant plastic greenhouse sheeting for the panes – the kind that farmers use when making agricultural polytunnels (just like this sheeting from Walmart). I cut the panels to size using scissors, then used a staple gun and a million staples to fix the edges tightly to the inside of the dome. This took a lot of time, but a steady supply of cookies and coffee kept my spirits up and it was satisfying to see the greenhouse edge closer to completion with each pane that I fitted.

Once all the panes were filled, I cut to size and stapled on a temporary zip-up plastic door – the kind that decorators use to protect rooms from dust or paint. At last, it was time to get growing! I dug over the ground with some well-rotted manure and moved all my tomato plants into ‘The Dome.’

5. Adding the Finishing Touches

Over the summer, I made a few small changes. I added a simple hinged roof vent to let heat escape on hot days, and replaced the zip-up door with a homemade hinged one for a more robust entrance. But otherwise, my DIY greenhouse has performed so well. My tomatoes loved the warmth and cropped really well.

I’ve been so impressed with how sturdy the structure is overall, too. It's survived strong winds and storms – the shape has amazing integral strength and it's remained standing firm when other nearby polytunnels and glass greenhouses have suffered damage in wild weather.

As well as a place to grow plants, my greenhouse has become a retreat. I put an old folding chair in there, so I could shelter from the rain. Then I added fairy lights, another chair and a camping stove – and before I knew it, The Dome had become much more than just a space to grow plants in. It's now a year-round destination: a place to call my own, somewhere I meet friends for a sunset chat, make pancakes for my kids or just sneak off to and relax in, surrounded by nature.

Occasionally, I treat myself to breakfast in The Dome, cooking a freshly-laid egg on the camping stove. This was the best $200 I've ever spent.

Hummingbirds are a delight to watch as they dart and dash around the garden. To attract hummingbirds to your yard, consider planting a garden specifically to support these beautiful pollinators.

Whether you're not sure where to start and asking yourself, “How do I attract a hummingbird to my garden?” or you just need some inspiration for your existing hummingbird garden, then you're in the right place. I'll walk you through the basics of attracting hummingbirds, including their favorite plants, how to help them during migration, and what you need to provide a welcoming environment for these tiny birds.

Here are the top tips from our team of gardening experts that will make birds flock to your yard, especially adorable hummingbirds. The ideas below will not only help support these important pollinators, but they will help you grow a gorgeous garden as well.

How to Attract Hummingbirds

When attracting hummingbirds to your garden, you should keep in mind that these animals prefer to feed in shady areas. They also need plenty of open spaces for flying. Adding appropriate feeders and flowers will also attract these helpful pollinators to your yard.

1. Provide Feeders

An easy method of attracting hummingbirds to the garden is to hang hummingbird feeders. Hummingbird feeders, like this simple option from Walmart, can provide the same amount of nectar as 2,000 to 5,000 flowers.

Hang feeders at varying heights between 3 and 5 feet (1-1.5 m) off the ground and fill them with a homemade nectar recipe made from 4 cups of water and 1 cup of sugar. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring occasionally. Change the mixture in the feeders every three days and clean your bird feeders every week with hot, soapy water.

2. Plant Flowers Hummingbirds Love

Some of the best plants for attracting hummingbirds to the garden include those that are orange or red in color and have tubular blooms. It's also good to choose native plants that hummingbirds can't resist. Here are some of the best plants to create a hummingbird hangout in your yard:

• Bee Balm Also known as Monarda, this stunning perennial herbaceous plant is characterized by clusters of vibrant tubular flowers that bloom in shades of red, pink, purple, or white.
• Columbine Renowned for its distinctive, bell-shaped flowers, columbine (Aquilegia spp.) blooms in an array of colors, including shades of blue, purple, pink, yellow, and white. These delicate flowers often feature contrasting spurs that give them a unique and elegant appearance. Columbine foliage is typically fern-like, with a light and airy texture.
• Cardinal Flower Lobelia cardinalis, also known as the cardinal flower, is known for it's vibrant red tubular flowers that stand atop tall, erect stems and bloom in dense spikes, creating a stunning display of color in late summer and early fall.
• Jewelweed A wildflower in the impatiens family, this plant tolerates growing conditions that few others will tolerate, including deep shade and wet soil. The flowers, which bloom in mid to late summer, are trumpet-shaped and dangle from slender stalks, typically in shades of orange or yellow, with reddish-brown spots or streaks.

Hummingbirds also visit many other flowers in the garden, such as various types of lilies. Many non-native annul and perennial plants, trees, shrubs, and flowering vines are also good at attracting hummingbirds. Some of the best plants to try are:

• Scarlet sage
• Daylilies
• Honeysuckle
• Cannas
• Bouncing bet
• Silk tree
• Spider flower
• Morning glories
• Petunias
• Fuchsias

You can shop a wide variety of high-quality plants that attract hummingbirds online from Wayside Gardens.

3. Create a Welcoming Habitat

The best way to attract hummingbirds is to create a welcoming habitat for them to live, eat, and nest. Follow these tips to create a low-maintenance hummingbird sanctuary in your yard.

• Provide trees and shrubs near the feeding area to give the hummingbirds a place to rest and shelter from predators and weather.
• Ripe fruit left near the feeding area makes the site more attractive to hummingbirds and it attracts gnats – an important source of protein for hummingbirds.
• Hummingbirds also need water. A bird bath no more than 1.5 inches (4 cm) deep, like this beautiful handmade hummingbird bath from Amazon, provides plenty of water for pollinators. If the bath is too deep, fill the bottom with coarse gravel.
• Nectar provides only part of a hummingbird's nutritional needs. Many species also eat large quantities of small bugs for the protein they provide. You can attract bugs to your garden with a small weedy patch or wildflower area. Be sure never to use insecticides in gardens where hummingbirds feed.
• The best flowers for attracting hummingbirds are those with long throats that hang in clusters beyond the foliage. Flowers that are too close to the foliage force a hummingbird to beat its wings against the leaves as it feeds. The plants should have several open flowers at a time, too. There are plenty of great hummingbird plants for sun and for shade, depending on your landscape.
• Another great way to encourage more hummingbirds to visit your yard and stay is to provide them with plenty of nesting materials. Hummingbirds need fluffy, natural fibers to build nests. You can supply them with wool, coco coir, or even pet fur from your most recent grooming session.
• Give hummingbirds a place to rest during their great migration that spans over 4,000 miles. You can create a DIY hummingbird swing for them using materials you probably already have on hand. They can sit and relax a while and you can get an up-close look at these beautiful birds in your backyard.

Hummingbird Garden Essentials

Birds in the backyard help create a delightful garden. The flash of color, the cheery birdsong, and the delightful antics liven up the landscape. It’s no wonder gardeners often give special thought to what birds need when organizing the garden.

Every region is blessed with local birds, but some areas are especially lucky in the bird department, like Washington, Oregon and Idaho, collectively known as the “Pacific Northwest.”

The range of bird species in the Pacific Northwest is exceptional, thanks in large part to the varied topography.

Here is a short list of nine wonderful Pacific Northwest birds – representing only a tiny fraction of nature’s remarkable avian show. We’ve picked birds for this list that you are likely to spot in your backyard: Idaho and Oregon backyard birds as well as backyard birds of Washington state. If you head to the ocean or to one of the many rivers in this part of the country, you’ll find interesting water birds too.

Common Birds of the Pacific Northwest

1. Anna’s Hummingbird

Anna's hummingbirds are full-time Pacific Northwest birds. This common hummingbird species is a staple year-round in both urban and suburban areas. Other hummers, like Rufous hummingbirds, migrate through the area on their way north and south, but Anna’s hummingbirds are there to stay.

These are magical birds with sparkling coloring, especially the males with their iridescent rose-red throat and crown and emerald backs. Females have emerald-green backs and rosy spots on the throat. Anna hummingbirds are delighted to visit your hummingbird feeders but will also eat nectar from native plants. Highly territorial, these little birds defend “their” space fiercely.

2. Golden-Crowned Kinglet

Recognize the golden-crowned kinglet by the black-and-white stripes above their eyes and orange or yellow crowns. Both male and female kinglets flick their wings open and shut when hunting for insects. You’ll find these birds in evergreen forests, swamps and bottomlands in addition to suburban backyards.

3. American Robin

Does the American robin live in all states? Not quite all, but this common bird, with its red-orange breast and pleasant song, does get around. You might see them in a tree or pecking for worms in a lawn. Listen for its happy call - “cheery, cheer-up, cheer-io” – but also its “tut, tut, tut” call. American robins don’t eat very often from seed feeders but if you put out fruit, they’ll be happy to eat this too. They also eat worms and bugs.

4. Spotted Towhee

The spotted towhee is a large, striking sparrow. It is found in thickets of brush in this area of the country. The male birds are shiny black above, while the females are gray, with brown flanks. Both have white stripes and bright red eyes. They look a little like slender robins and live near forests, thickets, and overgrown fields.

5. Cooper's Hawk

Do Cooper’s Hawks approach bird feeders? Yes they do, but they aren’t looking for seeds! Instead, they come for a more substantial meal. These hawks prefer to eat the birds that frequent the seeders, like pigeons or doves, and smaller birds like chickadees. This species has adapted well to suburban environments, nesting in neighborhood trees. Cooper’s Hawks fly fast and fancy, with their long tails and short round wings. While young birds are brown with yellow eyes, they develop gray feathers and red eyes as they get older.

See Birds Up Close

6. Downy Woodpecker

This small, beautiful woodpecker is black and white, and males have a touch of red on the back of their heads. You’ll often see downy woodpeckers along tree trunks and branches, they can be lured to the feeder with suet or sunflower seeds. The downy woodpecker’s call includes a sharp “pik” and a “whinny.”

7. Chestnut-backed Chickadee

If you want to see this attractive chickadee, you’ll need to go to the Pacific Northwest. That is the only spot it frequents. Chestnut-backed Chickadees build nests in dark, dense forests using fur from coyotes and rabbits. But you will also see them in parks and suburbs.

8. Song Sparrow

These sparrows have rust-brown bodies with bold gray streaks, and white chests with brown streaks. Their brown crown has a gray stripe as well that continues across the bird’s face. Look for them on the ground since they are ground nesters. The song of this bird is particularly lovely, three short notes followed by a trill.

9. Northern Flicker

Northern Flickers are big birds, large, brown woodpeckers with attractive, black-scalloped feathering. Their wings flash red when they fly. Their expression is often described as “gentle.” If you are looking for one, your best bet is to look at the ground since their preferred food is insects found in the soil like ants and beetles.

Frequently Asked Questions

As someone who adores nature and a good DIY project, I’m always on the lookout for garden ideas that feel both beautiful and hands-on.

That’s exactly why kokedama caught my attention. These moss-wrapped plantings are sculptural, a little unexpected, and surprisingly achievable at home. They turn a simple plant into something living and display-worthy – part gardening project, part natural artwork. And when they’re made with spring-flowering bulbs, the effect can be especially charming, with vibrant blooms appearing to float above a sphere of moss.

To help you make your own, I spoke to plant experts to find out exactly how to create kokedama, the steps worth taking your time over, and the most common mistakes to avoid. Once you’ve made one, don’t be surprised if you start planning a whole collection.

What is Kokedama?

Kokedama is a Japanese gardening technique in which a plant’s roots are wrapped in a ball of soil, covered in moss, and secured with twine or string. The finished piece can be displayed on a dish, pedestal, or shelf, or suspended for a more dramatic look.

It’s a wonderful way to add interest to a yard, porch, or indoor space, and it gives even a humble plant a more thoughtful, artistic presence. Kokedama works especially well when you want to highlight the shape of a plant, show off seasonal bulbs, or try a planting project that feels more creative than simply filling a container.

Part of the appeal is that making kokedama asks you to think a little differently. You’re not just planting something up – you’re creating a self-contained form that supports the plant while becoming part of the display itself. That balance of practicality and beauty is what makes it so satisfying.

If you’re new to it, don’t be intimidated. With the right materials and a bit of patience, kokedama is very doable for beginners. It’s easy to see why gardeners and plant lovers – including creators such as Gabrielle Beck, whose beautifully made examples (below) have helped introduce more people to the idea – have fallen for it.

How to Make a Spring Bulb Kokedama

Before you begin, it helps to gather everything in one place. Having your materials ready will make the process far more enjoyable – and far less messy.

What You'll Need

• Spring bulb flowers (such as narcissus, crocus, hyacinth, or grape hyacinth), or small flowering plants like primroses, pansies, or even anemones
• 50:50 mix of multipurpose compost and bonsai potting mix (for improved drainage)
• Sheet moss (fresh or preserved)
• Twine, string, or thin ribbon
• A bowl or bucket for mixing
• Water

Once you’ve chosen your bulbs, take a moment to think about the overall look you’re after. You might keep things simple with one variety for a cohesive display, or mix different bulbs for a more relaxed, natural feel. If you already have healthy bulbs growing in your yard, you can carefully lift and use those – just make sure the roots stay intact.

Kokedama Essentials

Spring Kokedama Step-by-Step

1. Mix your soil
   Combine equal parts multipurpose compost and bonsai potting mix in a bowl. The addition of bonsai soil improves drainage, which is key to keeping the roots healthy inside the moss ball. Team it with a standard potting mix, like this Harris All Purpose Potting Mix.
2. Add water gradually
   Slowly add water and mix until the texture resembles a wet cake batter. As gardening expert Angelika Zaber of Online Turf explains, "Achieving this consistency will make it easier to take the compost mix that you created and form it into a ball."
3. Form the soil ball
   Shape the mixture into a firm ball in your hands. It should hold its shape without crumbling or dripping.
4. Insert the bulb
   Gently split the ball in half, position the bulb so the roots sit inside the soil, with the shoot pointing upward, then press the halves back together and reshape the ball so it’s secure.
5. Wrap with moss
   Take a sheet of moss and wrap it around the soil ball, covering it completely. This outer layer helps retain moisture and gives kokedama its signature look.
6. Secure with twine
   Wrap twine or string around the moss, crisscrossing as you go to hold everything firmly in place. Tie it off securely.
7. Add a hanger (optional)
   If you’d like to suspend your kokedama, leave a generous length of string when tying. Angelika recommends allowing enough excess to comfortably hang it. "You can also wind ribbon around the moss for further security and visual appeal," she adds.

Kokedama Care

Kokedama do have a few specific care needs, but once you understand the basics, they’re very straightforward to look after.

• Watering is the most important part. The moss ball should be kept consistently moist, but never waterlogged, as overly wet conditions can quickly lead to rot. Rather than relying on light misting alone, it’s best to soak your kokedama when it starts to dry out. Simply submerge the ball in a bowl of water for 10–15 minutes, then lift it out and gently squeeze to remove excess moisture. You’ll notice it feels noticeably heavier when fully hydrated.
• Between soakings, you can lightly mist the moss to keep it looking fresh and green, especially in warmer or drier conditions.
• Place your kokedama in bright, indirect light. Direct sunlight can dry out the moss too quickly and may scorch more delicate plants, particularly spring bulbs and small flowering varieties.
• As the moss grows, you can trim it with a small pair of scissors (like these Japanese bonsai scissors on Amazon) to maintain a neat, rounded shape. This is purely aesthetic, but it helps keep your kokedama looking its best.

What Else Can I Kokedama?

Kokedama aren’t just for spring bulbs. While they’re a lovely seasonal choice, this technique works just as well with a wide range of plants – particularly those that enjoy consistent moisture and don’t mind having their roots gently contained.

Dan Jones, founder of Terrarium Tribe, shares a few alternatives to try: “There are plenty of good houseplant candidates to use if you’d rather not try this DIY with spring bulbs. Moisture-loving temperate and tropical plants like orchids are a natural fit, as you’ll need to keep the moss hydrated anyway. Compact species tend to fare better and look more visually balanced, too. Ferns are a good choice, or you could go a little more bonsai-traditional and use a ficus ginseng.”

Who doesn't love a bouquet of flowers? They're an incredibly thoughtful gesture to give or receive as a gift, they make for an amazing centerpiece, and they instantly invite a pop of nature into any room.

If you're looking to spruce up your store-bought bunches or make your own bouquets using flowers from your yard, adding filler foliage is a great way to go the extra mile in terms of visuals. All you need to have the perfect foliage for the job, according to Donna of Busy B Blooms on Instagram, are some chickpeas. They grow into the loveliest greenery!

To learn more about this nifty hack I spoke to a flower pro. Here we delve into the the beauty sprigs of greenery add to a bouquet, why this hack works, and more.

What is the chickpea hack?

Donna's chickpea hack is an amazing solution that's cheap and quick to execute for anyone looking to bulk out their floral bouquets. It's also an ideal project for anyone wishing to try their hand at growing something for the first time.

You simply sow any dried chickpeas into soil and water them to keep them moist. Then within 10 to 12 weeks you will have a lush, leafy plant perfect for pruning to obtain foliage for your bouquets.

If you're hoping for a consistent supply of foliage, Donna recommends sowing some more chickpeas every few weeks.

Is there anything I need to be careful of when trying the hack out?

Though Donna's chickpea hack is pretty easy to do, there is one major thing gardeners need to be aware of according to Genia - not all of your chickpeas will successfully sprout, especially if you're using ones from a grocery store.

Genia explains: "Chickpeas purchased in bag at the grocery store are intended as food, not seeds for planting. Although some of them will sprout when planted, the germination rate or yield is likely to be much lower than if you purchase a packet of certified seeds. On the seed packet, you will find listings that read “Certified Organic” or “Non-GMO” or “Heirloom” proving that those seeds are intended for planting rather than cooking."

Genia also recommends using some chickpea-specific inoculant on soil where you intend to start your seeds. An inoculant is designed to help prevent diseases and bacteria for your plants, as well as to boost their potential yield.

The MicroLife Bio Inoculant from Amazon is a good choice, plus its slow-release for long-lasting impact.

Why do people add greenery to their floral arrangements?

There are so many reasons why people enjoy adding sprigs of greenery to their bouquets of flowers, from enhancing visuals to bulking out their arrangements.

Genia Silva, the founder and creative director of Lush Petals, shares: "Greenery from the foliage adds extra texture and colour to the bouquet and creates an opportunity for intended negative space and air in a bouquet."

Foliage can also help to strengthen the structural integrity of your bouquets, protecting flowers from drooping. This is especially important for flowers with heavier heads, which can be prone to snapping.

Genia continues: "Heavier-headed blooms can be rested on the foliage and use it as support as well. The leaves could be totally stripped or hidden if the designer just wants to use foliage for its structural function, but it can look amazing too."

What other foliage looks fabulous with flowers?

The foliage that suits your flower bouquet will largely depend on your preferences as well as what flowers are in the arrangement. Though these are Genia's top four foliage recommendations aside from greenery grown from chickpeas:

• Eucalyptus: With its silvery green leaves and clean fragrance, eucalyptus adds both volume and graceful drape to the bouquet. Eucalyptus is extremely long lasting and exists in many varieties, each with leaves in a unique variety of shapes.
• Lemon Leaf: Glossy and deep green, its tear shaped leaves provide a polished backdrop and a very long vase life.
• Dusty Miller: Its soft, frosty, pale-green foliage introduces unique velvety texture and it dries beautifully in arrangements.
• Ferns: Arching fronds create an elegant, natural structure with varieties suited to nearly every floral style.

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One of my favorite parts about gardening is the feeling that I'm creating and caring for something in this huge universe. In those moments I'm devoting all of my time and attention to the process of planting, growing and nurturing with complete intention.

I love the idea of making some DIY air-dry clay plant markers like Anna King of Making Home Matter and Sostrene Grene posted to Instagram to take this hands-on approach even further. It sounds like a fun, mindful activity as well as one that will come in super handy to keep your crops labelled!

I chatted to some plant pros about the markers in the videos to learn what they love about them, plus one pro shared an amazing alternative that they use in their own yard. Read on to learn all about it.

What are plant markers?

Plant markers are a simple identification label used to help a gardener to know what they have planted, as well as where they have planted it. It's so easy to mix up your crops and not know what's where, which can quickly become stressful if certain plants require certain care while growing and you don't know where they are!

Through using a plant marker all of this is remedied, permitted that the label on your marker remains clear to read, that it doesn't break, and that it stays firmly in the ground in the place it's supposed to go.

What do plant pros love about the plant markers on Instagram?

The two sets of air-dry clay plant markers on Instagram are both rather different but they definitely share a commonality - they're both incredibly stylish.

Shane Pliska, CEO of Planterra and an indoor gardening expert, feels the same way and loved the decorative element of the markers. He shared: "If you’re going to label your plants with a garden DIY, you might as well do it with style. It is more common to see plant markers made of tin or plastic, so these markers definitely elevate the category. They are not just functional, they’re decorative objects. They bring a sense of craft and permanence to the garden, turning something ordinary into a small moment of art."

Tammy Sons, the founder and CEO of TN Nursery, is also a fan of how decorative these air-dry clay plant markers are, but more specifically loves the unique shape of Sostene Grene's design.

She said: "I have seen air-dry clay plant markers a lot online lately, but I love how shaped and durable those markers look!"

Making your markers: A step-by-step guide

To make your own plant markers from air-dry clay, you first need to decide what design you're going for. Would you like something more muted like in Anna King's example? Or perhaps something more shaped and colorful like Sostrene Grene's which will require purchasing paint?

1. Once you're clear on your vision, begin to gather your supplies. The bare minimum essentials for this DIY are air-dry clay and a glaze to make the clay waterproof. However, paints, stamps, a detailing tool, and a cutting mat may also come in handy.
2. Begin by crafting your clay shapes, whether free-handedly or with the assistance of using tools. If you're wishing to stamp any designs onto the clay like Anna, you need to do this before the clay dries out, otherwise the stamp won't be able to imprint properly. Ensure the shapes you make are at least a couple of inches thick, otherwise your dried clay will be rather brittle and prone to snapping.
3. After forming the shape you want and adding any stamps you wish to add, poke any holes you want into the clay. In Sostene Grene's video the clay pieces were cleverly hung up onto hooks to form the plant markers. It's best to make any holes you need while the clay is still soft, otherwise it may crack when you try to add them in later.
4. Then, your clay is all set to dry. Leave it for at least a day, when it should feel dry to the touch, but if you have longer three days should give the clay plenty of time to dry out.
5. Permitted your air-dry clay is entirely dry you can paint on any color or designs you want, and then finish everything off with a waterproof clay coating after your paint is completely dry. Don't forget to allow your glaze enough time to dry before using your plant markers in any soil, otherwise it may rub off and your clay won't be waterproof. Modge podge, acrylic sealant or any clay glaze will do the trick, and shall be all set after 24 hours.

What's a good alternative option?

If you love the idea of this DIY but don't have the budget to spend on craft supplies, Matt Tutt, a gardener at Aguacateros, has an amazing alternative option.

He shared with me: "It looks like a lot of effort to do this DIY, and that you need to buy various things – the clay, the stamps, and the glaze. Some people are lucky enough to have clay in their garden – this would be a great option (and the most sustainable choice!).

"But if you're looking for an alternative or a more affordable option, I have started using offcuts of wood or tree prunings to make my plant markers. I expose the wood using an axe or knife, and then I simply draw onto the wood with pencil or pen. They should last a decent length of time - and it will all naturally decompose eventually too."

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Ever since I was little, I've always been fascinated by the beauty of nature. I'd spend hours gathering leaves to admire the different vein patterns and pick stunning flowers to press between the pages of books.

But when I learned that you can make gorgeous nature prints by hammering flowers or leaves onto paper, it blew my mind. I hadn't ever seen it before, and the results are so lovely. It's a trend currently popping up on Instagram, and it couldn't be easier to do.

To learn more about why it works and the best ways to do it I asked Genia Silva, the founder and creative director of Lush Petals, for advice. Here's what I learned.

What is Flower and Leaf Hammering?

Flower and leaf hammering is a rather self-explanatory process that can produce some beautiful botanical prints. It involves picking leaves and flowers, laying them flat against a sheet of paper, and hammering them to imprint their pattern onto the paper. The same process can also work to leave prints on pieces of fabric.

According to Genia, the reason hammering leaves and flowers produces prints is down to science. She explains: "Hammering leaves and foraged flowers to make lovely DIY artworks works because when you hammer flowers and/or leaves, you physically break their cells and release their pigments onto a surface.

"Mechanical pressure then pushes these pigments into the fibers of fabric or paper. Paper and fabric have gaps between their fibers, so they act as a sponge, binding pigments to the material."

It's recommended to place some grease-proof paper or another kind of sheet over the plant you're hammering to ensure it stays secure and won't disintegrate as easily.

Flower Hammering Supplies

If you want to try flower and leaf hammering as a hobby, here are some items that will come in handy.

Why Do It?

If you're looking to create a unique gift or enhance a greeting card, hammering floral and/or botanical designs is a guaranteed way to create something one of a kind.

It's also entirely free to do, only requiring a hammer and paper, which you likely already have at home.

Genia noted how it's also a great way to preserve special flower bouquets received from events such as Valentine's Day or your wedding. She said: "For example, one might want to use flowers from their wedding bouquet or florals collected during travels and create a collage on a linen/silk piece of fabric or craft paper/card." This way, memories can be preserved for years to come, whether they're kept in a book, framed, or worn on a shirt.

How to Protect Your Prints

Depending on whether you're making prints onto paper or fabric, there are several things you can do to keep them in pristine condition.

Genia explains: "When it comes to preserving botanical prints, the first rule of thumb is to keep them away from direct sunlight, as bright direct sunlight makes botanical pigments fade away.

"Secondly, if transferring floral prints onto fabric, use only natural fabrics like silk, linen, and cotton [as the fibers will hold the design better]."

To make the natural dye last longer on fabric, pre-soak it in alum (available on Amazon), allow it to dry, and heat-set the design after hammering.

"For paper botanical print, cotton paper and heavy watercolor paper work best due to their fibrous structure. You can also use the heat of the iron to fix the pigments into the paper or fabric. Wait for the print to dry and then iron for 3-5 mins using baking paper or cloth between the iron and printed surface.

"Lastly, do not wash the fabric once the imprints are done. Again, this will wash all delicate pigments away."

Which Flowers and Leaves Are Best?

Certain leaves and flowers work best for the hammering process, primarily those darker in color. This is because they're naturally richer in pigment, meaning they will produce prints that are both clearer and more vibrant. Genia recommends using pansies, cosmos, marigolds, or geraniums.

If you're keen on using leaves, it's best to opt for non-waxy kinds. If the leaf looks shiny on the surface, you'll know it's a "waxy" kind. This shiny layer forms a barrier between the paper and the pigment cells, making it harder to produce a good print.

Don't forget to put a protective layer on your table underneath where you're hammering. This will protect the surface from damage as well as possible staining from the pigment.

Spring is upon us, and with the increasingly beautiful weather comes an abundance of wildlife returning to our yards. I always adored sitting by the window and keeping an eye on the bird feeders in my garden growing up. I'd even jot down the names of each species I saw, seeing how many new birds would arrive as the season unfolded.

Putting food out for wild birds is a sure-fire way to win their hearts, and this DIY bird feeding garland by Miriam of Unfollow The Path on Instagram is a great place to start. It's easy to make, very bird-friendly and contains a wide variety of nutritious nibbles.

Here's some info on how to make your own, as well as what a bird pro thinks of the DIY overall. You'll have feathery friends flocking to your yard in no time.

Why is a garland like this a good idea?

There are so many different ways to leave food out for birds, from special feeders and tables to hanging grazing blocks, sprinkling loose seed, and more. But a major pro that comes with making a garland like this, according to Bob Mulvihill, lead ornithologist at The National Aviary, is how customizable it is.

He shared: "A project like this garland can be incredibly fun, and you can even involve your kids in the process. It's also a great way to use up foods you may not be able to finish eating before they go bad in your home - permitted that they're bird-friendly."

Especially if you're using leftovers in your garland, it's also a highly inexpensive way to feed birds in your local area as they prepare to breed in spring.

How do I make this garland?

Making this garland only requires three things: a drill, a long, flexible branch, and an assortment of goodies for the birds to feast on.

You simply drill a hole into each item you want to feed your birds, thread it through the flexible branch, and then tie your branch up for the birds to use.

It's best to aim for the middle of each item when you're drilling your holes. That way, they will be the most secure they can be and it will take longer for your birds to nibble through to the center and cause the snack to fall off the flexible branch.

If you're hoping to incorporate seed or other small pieces on your DIY bird feeder, it won't be possible to drill holes into them. However, there's a simple remedy that will make adding seeds more than possible - pinecones and peanut butter!

What else can I add to my garland?

In the video, Miriam added apples, oranges, peanuts, peanut butter and bird seed but there are so many other great additions to choose from.

Though if you're adding nuts, Bob notes how it's vital to use unsalted ones. He said: "Unsalted peanuts are an excellent food for birds, but they have to be unsalted. Otherwise, they pose health risks!

"It's also important to remember that whole peanuts strung on your garland would only be able to be eaten easily by birds that can break open the shells. However, small birds can still chisel away at them over time!"

Here's a list of other great additions for a bird food garland:

• Oats
• Raisins
• Saltanas
• Leftover rice or pasta
• Corn
• Currants
• Strawberries

How to add seeds and small items

Seeds are adored by birds, and varieties like sunflower seeds are amazing at providing them with healthy essential fats. To add seeds onto your bird food garland, simply gather some pinecones, twine, and 100 per cent peanut butter.

Tie a piece of twine around your pinecone so you will be able to loop the string around your garland.

Next, smother the pinecone in peanut butter. Now you can easily roll the pinecone in a mixture of seeds and they will stick to the peanut butter.

It's important to opt for 100 per cent peanut butter as it won't have any added salt or sugar. It's often available in grocery stores, so just take a moment to read the packaging!

If you notice birds aren't coming to your garland, try moving it. If nothing seems to help though it's best to take the garland down to ensure ants or rats aren't attracted to it.

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The fashion world has almost always taken inspiration from nature with floral prints, leaf motifs, and earthy color palettes; a moodboard, if you will, for designers. But, Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2026 took that ode to the garden one step further with a detail that kept appearing in runway shows: moss. That soft, ancient, fluffy green stuff was draped across runways and woven into the set designs in a way that made it feel genuinely new, and not like the stuff you’re always trying to get rid of.

Miu Miu was the show that most people talked about, and their runway felt like stumbling into The Secret Garden rather than a fashion show. Hermès took a different approach, with models walking along mossy banks after emerging from a “portal of light.” Yet, both shows arrived at the same place.

Pay attention, because moss is about to become very interesting to a lot more people than just gardeners. So, how can you embrace this trend? Let’s start with the basics and a few experts.

Why Moss?

There's something about moss that feels right for the cultural moment we’re currently in. It's soft where everything else feels hard. It's slow-growing in a world obsessed with getting everything right away. It requires almost no maintenance, like feeding or deadheading, and mostly just wants to be left alone. In a time when most of the gardening community is looking for low-maintenance, eco-friendly, wildlife-supporting plants, moss is suspiciously perfect.

It’s also genuinely beautiful in a way that’s easy to overlook until someone points it out (so, here I am, pointing it out for you). Moss is actually quite extraordinary when you look at it up close. It’s a dense landscape of tiny structures that photograph with a richness that most flowers just can’t match. Fashion designers probably took notice since their entire job is to pay attention to texture and material, and the rest of us are just catching up (as per usual).

According to Serge, an MSc Plant Biology and Environmental Biology specialist from the University of Eastern Finland, its appeal makes complete sense. "Moss is becoming more popular because it works both visually and practically – it's low-maintenance, thrives in shade, and brings a softer, more natural look compared to structured planting." Hard to argue with that.

What Garden Designers Are Taking From the Runway

This "Moss Moment" in fashion – as I’ll now be calling it from now on – is confirming something that garden designers have known for a while: a garden doesn’t need to be full of flowers to be considered beautiful. Texture, tone, and the play of light on surfaces can be just as interesting and compelling as color.

Anh Ly, CEO and designer at Mim Concept, has been thinking about exactly this. "Moss resonates culturally because it feels like the opposite of polished perfection," she says.

"It brings age, softness, and a sense of calm that many people are craving after years of hyper-curated interiors and outdoor spaces." In her work, which focuses on how natural materials shape emotional response in a space, she's found that moss does something few other design elements can. "Moss gives a space instant memory, even when it's newly planted." In landscape styling, she notes, moss makes a garden feel settled rather than decorated, which is precisely the look that's resonating right now.

There's also the sustainability argument that is feeling increasingly hard to ignore. Moss requires no watering once established, no feeding, no mowing, and no pesticides. In shady areas where grass struggles and most plants just get depressed, moss doesn't just survive – it actually thrives.

How to Bring the Look Into Your Own Garden

Encouraging moss to grow is much easier than growing most things, so there’s that. If you have a shady, damp area where even grass is struggling to grow, moss will often colonize this area naturally if you let it. Rake away any dead material, keep the area moist, and let it do its thing.

If you prefer to make the process faster (as most of us have grown to rely on instant gratification), you can make a moss slurry. What exactly is this, and how do you make it?

Gather some moss in a nearby forest or other place in your garden and blend it with buttermilk or plain yogurt. Paint it on rocks, walls, or bare soil in shady spots. It sounds crazy, but it actually works, and it’s deeply satisfying in a way that’s as hard to explain as ASMR.

That said, both Serge and Anh Ly urge caution about over-relying on the method. "Moss slurry can help inoculate a damp surface, but it is not reliable on its own," says Anh Ly. "Gardeners usually get better results by improving shade, limiting competition from grass, and pressing live moss directly onto a suitable surface." Serge agrees: "While moss slurry can work, it really comes down to getting the conditions right first." So think of the slurry as a bonus rather than a shortcut.

Quick Moss Accents

Getting the Conditions Right

Before you try to establish moss anywhere, it's worth understanding what it actually needs, because the wrong spot is the only real way to fail here. And it's a mistake both our experts flagged independently.

"One thing I see quite often is people trying to grow moss in dry or sunny spots," says Serge, "but moss does best in consistently moist, shaded areas – usually where other plants struggle."

Anh Ly echoes this from a design perspective: "The biggest mistake people make is trying to grow moss in the wrong conditions – usually full sun, dry soil, or highly trafficked spots. Moss is not a shortcut plant. It needs moisture, shade, and patience."

Something That Looks Like Its Been There For Decades

Once you've found the right spot, clear away any grass, weeds, or debris and firm the soil down. Moss actually prefers compacted, poor soil over the rich, loose stuff most plants want, which is what makes it so perfect for those frustrating corners of the garden where nothing else wants to grow.

Keep the area consistently moist while the moss establishes. A gentle misting every couple of days when the weather is dry is really all it takes. Within a few months, you'll have something that looks like it's been there for decades.

Which, as it turns out, is exactly what both Paris and your garden are going for right now.

Spend a few hours weeding or transplanting, and your hands will know it. That deep ache along the base of the thumb, stiffness that carries into the next morning, a tendon that feels oddly tight when you flex – this is gardener's thumb, a repetitive strain condition that builds quietly over seasons.

Most standard tool handles run thin and hard, designed to be cheap to produce rather than comfortable to use. Gripping them tightly – especially during twisting or pulling motions – puts serious stress on the tendons and muscles that control the thumb, and over time, that stress accumulates.

You don't have to replace your gardening tools to fix the problem. A few layers of pipe foam and some grip tape can transform the feel of what's already in the shed without spending much. The goal is a wider, cushioned handle diameter – something in the range of 1.5 to 2 inches (3.8 to 5cm) – which lets the hand relax into a more natural grip rather than clenching hard around a skinny shaft.

It sounds minor. Over a long season, however, the difference is huge.

What is Gardener's Thumb?

Gardener's thumb is an informal term for several repetitive strain injuries targeting the thumb, wrist, and palm. It can refer to De Quervain's tenosynovitis, trigger finger, or general tendinitis along the thumb tendons. What these conditions have in common is the cause: repetitive gripping, pinching, or twisting of pruners that inflames the tendon sheath over time. Symptoms tend to start subtle – a little stiffness after a long session, some soreness along the wrist – then build into something harder to ignore if the root cause isn't addressed.

The handle shape is often the main driver. A thin handle forces the hand into a tighter grip, which means the thumb tendons work overtime whenever the tool is used. Wider handles distribute that pressure across the whole hand. That's the basic biomechanics of it, and it's why ergonomic tool handles are thicker by design. You can buy ergonomic tools, of course, buy modifying the handles of your current tools gets to the same result for a fraction of the price.

How to Modify Your Handles

It only takes a few minutes to make your tool handles wider, softer, and easier to use.

Materials

The materials are easy to find and cost almost nothing.

• Pipe insulation foam – the tubular kind sold at hardware stores for wrapping water pipes – works well because it's already shaped right, slightly compressible, and easy to cut to length. This foam from Amazon is a great choice.
• Grip tape goes over the top to secure everything and add texture.
• A pair of scissors and some electrical tape to anchor the foam underneath is about all else needed.

For hand tools like trowels or weeders, a single foam layer wrapped and taped before the grip tape is usually plenty. For longer handles – hoes, cultivators, rakes – the foam can be cut to cover just the grip zone, roughly the top 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25cm) where the hands actually sit during use. There's no need to wrap the whole handle. Focus the modification where it matters and it'll hold up a lot better too.

Step-By-Step

1. Start by cleaning the handle – grip tape won't stick well to dusty or oily surfaces. If there's old rubber coating that's peeling, pull it back the rest of the way first.
2. Then slide the foam tube over the handle or wrap a foam sheet around it, securing the seam with a strip of electrical tape. The goal is a snug fit, not an overly bulky one. One solid layer is typically enough to bump the handle diameter up into a more comfortable range.
3. Once the foam is secure, wrap the grip tape tightly from the bottom of the grip zone upward, overlapping each pass by about half the tape width. Grip tape like this from Amazon holds up well to weather and repeated handling, which matters for tools that get grabbed with damp or dirty hands.
4. Pull it firm – but not so tight the foam compresses completely underneath. A little cushion is the whole point.
5. Some gardeners add a second pass at the top and bottom edges to keep things from unraveling with repeated use.

Which Tools Benefit Most?

Hand tools are the obvious starting point. Trowels, cultivators, weeders, and pruners are held in a tight grip for most of their use, making them the biggest contributors to thumb strain over a session. If only one tool gets modified first, make it whichever one gets the most time in the hand – for most gardeners that's a trowel or hand fork, since those are picked up in nearly every session.

Long-handled tools matter too. Hoes, rakes, and cultivating forks are usually gripped near the top of the handle during use, and if that zone is thin and smooth, the hands slide and clench to compensate. Widening just the upper 10 inches (25cm) of a hoe handle can reduce fatigue noticeably over a long session. It's worth doing for any tool used for extended stretches – not just the obvious culprits that cause soreness right away.

Keep Your Tools in Good Shape

Grip tape wears eventually, especially on tools that get heavy use or sit in damp conditions through the season. Checking the wraps at the start of each year takes about five minutes and catches any sections lifting or losing adhesion before they become a problem. Replacing a worn wrap is faster than the first application – the foam underneath usually stays intact, so it's just a matter of peeling off the old tape and rewrapping.

Modified handles that are maintained reasonably well can last several seasons without needing more than a quick rewrap at the top, where wear tends to show up first. And the payoff accumulates in the same quiet way the strain used to – less hand fatigue after a long morning, fewer mornings where the thumb aches before the day even starts. A little foam and some tape is a small thing, but for hands that spend a lot of time in the garden, it adds up.

There’s a magical window of time as spring nears that’s just perfect for making new plants. Catch it, and propagating free plants is a doddle! Lots of our favourite perennial plants – from asters to coneflowers and ferns to hostas – can be divided in early spring, and it’s simple to do, even if you’re a beginner gardener, just as long as you time it right.

That perfect moment is easy to recognize once you know what to look out for. It happens when the ground has thawed and dried out a little, and your plants are just beginning to burst back into life. Divide at this point, and the new plants will respond exceptionally well because their recently dormant roots are full of energy, so they’ll quickly settle into their new homes and grow strongly.

Exactly when this window arrives will depend on your USDA zone. In south or west zones (7–10), that’s likely to be in February, a little later in March for north or midwest zones (3–6), or even April in the coldest areas. Whichever zone you’re in, choose a mild, dry but cloudy day to divide, so exposed roots don’t dry out quickly.

Why You Should Divide Perennials

For a start, you can make plants for free! There are plenty of other benefits, too. Division keeps perennials vigorous and healthy, as it gives congested roots space to stretch out and find food and water. It also creates more airflow above ground, which can help reduce common fungal diseases such as mildew. It’s a great way to reinvigorate older plants, or bring an overgrown plant back into shape, too. For most perennials, dividing every 3–5 years is a smart move.

What to Divide in Spring

As a general rule, summer-flowering plants are best divided in spring (or autumn), but wait until summer or fall to divide spring-flowering plants.

• Late-summer and fall bloomers are the prime candidates for early spring division, such as Aster (Michaelmas daisy), bee balm (Monarda), coneflower (Echinacea), Phlox, Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) and stonecrop (Sedum).
• Daylilies can be divided in early spring, as soon as shoots appear.
• Hostas, too, respond well. Wait until the eyes (buds) emerge, but act before the leaves fully unfurl.
• Ornamental grasses that are congested or have a hollow center should be divided once you see new blades emerging.
• Ferns are best divided when the plant has woken up and new fiddleheads have emerged.
• Snowdrops can be split immediately after they’ve finished flowering.

The Fail-Safe Guide to Dividing

A day or two before you plan to divide a plant, water it thoroughly. This will ensure it’s fully hydrated, which reduces transplant shock. Next, check the soil: you should only divide if the soil is workable, and not frozen or soaking wet.

All good? Use a garden fork to gently lift the plant from the ground, loosening the soil all around it first to keep as many roots as possible intact. Now you need to divide the plant into sections, making sure each clump has a healthy amount of roots and at least three shoots. The best division method depends on the plant type:

• If the clump is large and fibrous, use two garden forks back to back to lever it into two sections, and repeat as needed.
• If the clump is too solid for the two-fork method – perhaps with a woody crown or fleshy roots – use a knife or sharp spade to slice through.
• Smaller, looser clumps can often be gently prised apart into smaller sections; levering two hand forks back to back can be a useful technique.
• Some plants create baby plantlets around their outer edge which are easily separated.

Plant the new sections immediately, at the same depth, and water well to settle the soil around their roots and eliminate any air pockets.

Essential Tools for a Great Result

And that’s it! Treat your babies as you would any newly-added plant, watering regularly to keep the soil evenly moist, until they’ve settled into their new home and are growing well. A layer of mulch around the base of the plant will help retain soil moisture.

Kristen Bell shared a behind-the-scenes glimpse of the Golden Globes' floral installations recently on Instagram. In her trademark voice that landed her the part of Anna in the famous Frozen movies, she was absolutely thrilled about the flowers, shocked that they were real. Even hilariously pointing out at one point that the rose was “the size of a butt cheek.”

It’s easy to see why Kristen was so impressed, and let me tell you, so was I! The dramatic staircase featured oversized roses and other immersive flowers cascading like a waterfall through vertical spaces. It was red carpet magic at its finest, and felt like a fantasy come true. I just had to search how I could do this myself.

Surprisingly, this look is entirely achievable on a smaller scale in your house with a few strategic design choices and the right materials. Gardeners or simply lovers of flowers can create their own version by following the tips below.

Start With Statement Blooms

As we could see in the video, the defining feature of the look is the oversized rose. While event designers, especially those designing florals for the Golden Globes, often use florist varieties, home gardeners can recreate the same visual effect. Choose large-headed garden roses, cabbage roses, or even peonies when in season. Faux florals are also a smart option if you’re looking for a really big size, longevity, or need to decorate an area where watering can be tricky, such as a staircase.

Choose Your Blooms

When you’re choosing your flowers, think in terms of clusters rather than single stems. Multiple flowers in similar color tones create an immersive “cloud” effect often seen at large events. For a really glamorous color palette, try soft blush, champagne, ivory, and pale peach shades (but you can, of course, adjust the palette to your own taste and home).

Build the Structure First

While your flower choice is obviously highly important, it’s nothing without some support, which takes planning. Event designers often use hidden frames or foam mechanics, but you can recreate this effect using everyday items like chicken wire, floral cages, or stair rail hooks.

Chicken wire is a favorite in the DIY florist community because it helps hold stems in place while still keeping a natural shape (this is a trick often employed in large arrangement tutorials).

This chicken wire from Amazon comes with gloves and a pair of cutters, which are always helpful.

Attach your lightweight structure to your location of choice first, such as stair railings or walls, then insert your flowers gradually so you can adjust the spacing as you go. Working from the bottom upward helps maintain balance and prevents gaps.

These Command clear decoration clips from Target have damage-free adhesive strips on the back and come in a pack of 40. These are perfect if you want to work on a staircase or if you live in a rental space.

Choose a Layout That Fits Your Space

You don’t need a massive Hollywood staircase like at the Golden Globes to capture the mood you’re going for. Simply look for vertical areas where your eye is naturally drawn, such as an entryway banister, a porch railing, or even a hallway arch.

Rather than making the mistake of covering every last inch of space, bunch your flowers into clusters that look like they're “growing” along the structure. This layered approach creates depth and doesn’t require you to splash out on hundreds of flowers. For smaller homes, try framing just the first few steps or only one side of the railing.

Master the Color Story

You won’t find many event designers who just use colors at random; they usually stick to a more cohesive palette that blends into its surroundings. Neutral interiors often pair beautifully with creamy roses and greenery, while darker entryways benefit from brighter pinks or coral tones. This will keep your arrangement from looking too heavy.

Pro tip: Add your foliage sparingly. Eucalyptus and ruscus work well, but you want to make sure that the roses and secondary flowers remain the star of the show.

Keep It Practical

If you garden regularly, you’re probably wondering why I haven’t mentioned water, right? Well, it takes its own entire section. If you're working with fresh flowers, planning for hydration is a whole system.

For individual stems, use water tubes or tuck small vials into the chicken wire base to keep your flowers fresh longer. Faux stems, on the other hand, are ideal for staircases or households with pets and children. Faux flowers are also ideal if you don’t want to deal with the complications that come with water tubes.

Pro tip: When arranging your flowers, designers often recommend stepping back often while working and checking your work from different angles or even in a mirror. This will help you ensure the shape is balanced and give off the idea that your DIY installation was professionally styled.

Bring it All Together

A Little Red-Carpet Drama at Home

The magic of the Golden Globes staircase comes from scale and repetition rather than complexity. With these tips and a few full-headed roses, you can transform your ordinary staircase or entryway into a moment worthy of a celebrity awards show, no guest list required.

It's an essential part of being a gardener – your drawers and storage bins gradually fill up with old seed packets.While some seeds remain viable for years, others fail completely, even when they look perfectly healthy on the outside. Traditional germination tests take days or weeks – plant seeds on damp paper towels, wait, and hope something sprouts. By then you've already wasted prime planting time on duds that never had a chance. It's frustrating when you finally see nothing come up after all that patience.

Your smartphone’s LED light can solve this problem immediately. The high-intensity light backlights seeds to show the internal structure without breaking them open. The whole test takes maybe 30 seconds per seed, and it's surprisingly accurate! No fancy seed starting equipment needed – just your phone. And I know you've got one of those.

Why It Works

A living seed holds a dense embryo – the baby plant ready to grow. Embryos pack proteins, fats, starches for optical density. This blocks light when backlit, creating a dark shadow inside the coat.

Dead seeds lose density as the embryo dries out, leaving a hollow shell or shriveled bits that let light pass through freely. That contrast is what makes the test so reliable and straightforward for home gardeners.

The seed coat stays intact either way, so outside looks tell nothing. Backlighting reveals what's inside without harm. This simple trick gives you real insight into viability before you invest time, space, or soil in something that won't perform. It's especially useful when you're dealing with older packets or saved seeds from previous seasons.

Step-by-Step

1. Turn Off the Lights

Darkness is essential for contrast. Use a windowless room or a closet to block ambient light, and allow your eyes about 30 seconds to adjust. Then turn your phone's flashlight to maximum brightness and dim the screen to prevent stray glare from washing out the image.

2. Check Your Seeds

Hold the seed directly against the LED bulb on the back of your phone (not the camera lens). Press gently so the light is forced through the seed toward your eyes. View it from the side or slightly above to find the clearest internal angle. If you're sorting through dozens of seeds, using a phone tripod like this one from Amazon can keep your light steady for hands-free sorting.

3. Diagnose

A solid dark mass in the center signals a healthy embryo – dense tissue blocks light. Shape varies by seed type but should appear distinctly darker.

Hollow glow or even translucence means the seed is likely dead. Light passes too freely, showing embryo breakdown. Thin shadows or spots indicate marginal viability that might not be worth the risk. Discard those to avoid weak or failed germination later.

Which Seeds Work Best?

This works best on medium-sized, semi-translucent seeds like peppers, tomatoes, melons, citrus, and sunflowers. They're easy to handle with thin coats that LED penetrates well, showing clear embryo contrast.

Pepper and tomato seeds excel since they're so frequently saved from year to year. Testing saves tray space and avoids disappointment weeks later when nothing sprouts in your carefully prepared flats.

The Best Seeds to Try

Thick-shelled nuts like acorns block light too much for phone LEDs. Microscopic seeds like petunias are too small and translucent for contrast.

Seeds with dark coats like black beans also block light. Stick to traditional tests for these. The method shines on the right seeds but isn't universal for every type in your collection. For borderline cases, combining it with a paper towel test can confirm results.

You may keep an aloe vera plant on your windowsill for skincare or minor burns, or just because it looks nice. But did you know its fleshy leaves hold substances that can aid houseplants just as much as they soothe human skin? You can transform that extra growth into a powerful plant tonic in about 10 minutes using basic kitchen tools.

An aloe drench is the perfect "pick-me-up" for stressed greenery rebounding from repotting jolts, dry spells, or pest damage – cases where plain water often just won't suffice. Aloe vera also works well as part of routine maintenance when growth seems sluggish or leaf color looks slightly off, giving plants a gentle nudge without forcing heavy fertilizer schedules.

Why Aloe Drench Works on Houseplants

Aloe gel contains over 75 active elements, from vitamins and minerals to amino acids and enzymes. The gel's salicylic acid works like plant aspirin, igniting defense mechanisms that fend off illness and mend harm. Enzymes dissolve dead root bits while prompting fresh root sprouting, hastening bounce-back after tough times.

Gel helps moisture cling to roots beyond what plain water manages, allowing extra absorption time. Elements such as calcium, magnesium, potassium fortify cell walls and vital processes.

Together, this all makes the drench outperform regular water if your plants are in need of some TLC. It supports both visible growth and hidden root health, which often determines how well plants handle future stress.

What You'll Need

• One Mature Aloe Leaf – Choose a plump, vital leaf from your aloe's outer circle, since older ones pack more gel than inner youngsters. A single mature leaf yields ample gel for one liter of drench – enough to dose multiple houseplants.
• Filtered Water – Grab one liter (roughly 4 cups) filtered or distilled water, as tap chlorine might disrupt aloe's helpful parts.
• A Blender – For blending.
• A fine-mesh strainer – This set of three from Amazon will work well to clear out fibrous remnants that could block dirt or lure fungus gnats.

The Step-by-Step Process

1. Harvest

Using a sharp, clean knife, cut one aloe leaf close to the base. The cut will close naturally in no time. Opt for an outer leaf instead of central – those mature ones hold extra gel.

Sterilize your knife by wiping it with rubbing alcohol before cutting to avoid introducing bacteria into the plant or the gel. After cutting, let the leaf sit upright for a minute so any remaining yellow sap drains out. The sap is caustic, and draining it will make for a gentler tonic.

2. Extract the Gel

Split the leaf lengthwise and, spoon out the clear, sticky inner gel. Stick to translucent material, skipping yellow latex beneath skin that might upset roots. Compost or toss the rind.

If the gel feels gritty or smells sharp, rinse it briefly under cool water before blending. This helps wash off surface residue and keeps the mixture smooth so it won’t clog soil pores or watering tools later.

3. Blend and Emulsify

Combine the gel from one leaf with 1 liter of water in a blender, and blitz on high for 30 seconds. Aim for a frothy, bubbly mix resembling store aloe juice. Avoid excess blending.

If your blender struggles with thick gel, chop the gel into smaller chunks first so it breaks down evenly. The goal is a uniform liquid with no visible clumps floating on top.

4. Strain Out the Fiber

Run the blend through a strainer, catching unblended fiber scraps. These pieces might jam soil holes or host gnat eggs, so it's important to filter well. Press gently with the back of a spoon to push liquid through without forcing pulp into the mix.

Discard strained fibers rather than saving them, since they spoil fast and can smell if left sitting.

5. Dilute for Sensitive Plants

Dilute further for delicate types like ferns or orchids – one part aloe drench to two parts water works. Rugged pothos or snake plants take full potency just fine. If you’re unsure, begin with a diluted mixture, strengthening later if the response looks good.

Test on one plant first when trying a new batch, especially if plants are already stressed. If leaves perk up within a day or two, the strength is safe to use on the rest.

How to Apply Your Tonic

1. Monthly Root Drench

During the growing season (spring through early fall), substitute your regular watering with this drench once a month. This provides a steady supply of nutrients without the risk of mineral buildup.

2. Stress Recovery Treament

For plants that are drooping from transplant shock or pest damage, apply the drench immediately and repeat weekly until the plant stabilizes.

These watering cans from Amazon spread easily without the soil splash.

3. Propagation Jumpstart

Before placing cuttings in soil or water, soak the stems in a strong aloe drench for 10–15 minutes. The natural enzymes help curb rot and can often speed up root development by one to two weeks.

The holiday decorations may be back in the attic, but our beloved Christmas cacti soldier on. However, they may be starting to look a little past their best once we head towards the latter stages of winter. If your Christmas cactus looks a little weary, you might be thinking it’s done for another year, but the start of the year is actually a golden opportunity to kickstart a second flush of flowers.

While many treat them as seasonal flowering plants with limited ongoing visual interest, these resilient succulents have a secret: they are perfectly capable of a spectacular encore in spring. Knowing how to get a Christmas cactus to bloom again in spring isn’t down to a fluke – it’s simply about respecting the internal clock of the plant. Give your Christmas cactus the right care during this post-holiday slump, and you can transform that greenery into a stunning second act of vibrant color.

Native to Brazilian rainforests, Schlumbergera often has a second flowering season in early spring. Of course, our homes may not be quite as exotic as Brazil, but these epiphytic plants still crave a rhythm that mimics the shifts of their South American origins. Here's the secret to turning your tired plant into a vibrant spring showstopper.

The Secret Key to More Blooms

For anyone keen to find out how to get Christmas cactus to bloom again, the secret to a spring showing is simple. It’s all about embracing the “slump” and leaning into the idea of a January rest period. Put simply, the slump is a natural part of the plant’s life cycle. Not only does it have to be observed, it should be actively encouraged.

In the wild, these plants experience a period of cooler temperatures and shorter days following their primary reproductive cycle. When we keep things at a cozy 72°F (22°C) with the lights on until late, the cactus never receives the important biological signal that it’s time to rest and reset. That sign, in turn, is what prompts the plant to stop growing leaves and start growing buds. To get that second flush, you must initiate a period of rest for 4-6 weeks, starting in late January.

To set new flower buds, a Christmas cactus requires cool nights, hitting a sweet spot between 55-65°F (12.8-18.3°C). Use a digital thermometer like the ThermoPro TP50 from Amazon to keep temperatures in this range. If you must keep things snuggly for yourself, move your plant to a cool room or basement. The drop in temperature will slow the plant's metabolism, so it stores energy rather than pushing out weak growth. To trigger spring bloom, light requirements must be shifted, too. A Christmas cactus needs 13-14 hours of darkness a day during this rest period.

You should also scale back watering your Christmas cactus during this period. You want the soil to feel dry. If you aren’t sure how much to water in the rest period, try the wrinkle test. Gently squeeze one of the flat, leaf-like segments (phylloclades). If it feels firm, there is plenty of stored moisture. If it shows fine wrinkles and feels limp, add a little top-up. This mild drought, chill and dark all mimic a Brazilian dry season, which is the natural foundation for the next Christmas cactus flower burst.

3 Ways to Get Christmas Cactus to Rebloom

Once your Christmas cactus has enjoyed its quiet January hibernation, you can nudge it gently back to life. The following 3 steps are designed to work in harmony to encourage that dynamic second flush. Here’s how to make a Christmas cactus bloom again in a thoughtful way, and with minimum fuss.

1. The Light and Water Pivot

In late February or early March, move your cactus back into a spot with bright, indirect light. An east-facing window provides enough morning sun to fuel photosynthesis, without the harsh afternoon rays that can scorch segments. If you need a little extra light at this time, position your plant under a full-spectrum grow light, like the Glowrium Height Adjustable Grow Light from Amazon.

As the light increases, you must also slowly reintroduce moisture. Instead of a deep soak, start with light waterings using room-temperature water (either distilled or rainwater is preferable). Your Christmas cactus is sensitive to the shock of cold tap water, which can cause bud drop before the flowers even open. At this point, keep the soil moist but never soggy. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.

2. Strategic Deadhead and Prune

To maximize your spring flush, make sure flowers have the best chance of developing well. Start by gently twisting off any shriveled December blooms. Deadheading prevents wasting energy on seed production. For a truly lush encore, perform a light pruning. Use Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon (or sharp flower snips or scissors) to make clean cuts at the joints without damaging main stems.

As an alternative to pruning, try pinching back. Identify the phylloclades (those flat, leaf-like segments) and remove a couple of segments from the end of each branch. This stops the plant from becoming leggy and sparse, and encourages the stems to branch out. Since Christmas cacti only produce flowers at the tips of their stems, doubling the branches effectively doubles your potential for spring blossoms.

3. Gentle Nutrient Boost

Hopefully, you didn’t feed your Christmas cactus during the January rest. However, once you see tiny buds or new red-tinted leaf growth appearing (some time in late February), it’s a good idea to support growth with targeted fertilizing. Use a high-potassium liquid fertilizer or specialized cactus and succulent food, like Schultz Cactus Plus (2-7-7) from Amazon, to boost flower production (dilute to half-strength).

Potassium is the key mineral for flower development and root health (whereas high-nitrogen fertilizers prompt more green foliage). Feed the plant every 2 weeks through the spring blooming period. There’s no need to go heavy on feeds, though and a little goes a long way. Once the spring flowering ends, you can reduce feeding to once a month through summer.

But Don't Do This!

That’s all you need to create the ideal conditions for that lovely second flush. However, a few things are best avoided if you want to know how to get a Christmas cactus to flower again with zero stress:

• Don’t repot during bud set. A bigger pot does not mean more flowers. Christmas cacti actually bloom best when slightly root-bound. If you repot these plants now, they will focus on its root system, rather than producing flower buds. If the soil does look depleted, top-dress with a dedicated succulent or cactus mix like Back to the Roots Organic Succulents & Cacti Mix from Amazon.
• Don’t move once buds appear. A Christmas cactus can be fussy about its environment. Relocating it near heat vents or drafty windows can cause bud drop. Even rotating it 180 degrees can cause the plant to drop its buds in stress. Find its bloom spot before it blooms, then leave it there until the show is over.
• Don't rely on kitchen hacks. You may hear that sugar water or coffee grounds can trigger further flushes. These hacks shock the plant into blooming. However, sugar can foster harmful bacterial growth in the soil, and grounds can make the soil too acidic and lead to mold. So stick to balanced, water-soluble fertilizers.

Frequently Asked Questions

Christmas Cactus Care Essentials

To increase your chances of triggering a second flush of blooms, these care essentials make all the difference. Grab this care trio and focus on timely rejuvenation to boost your chances of that joyful spring flush:

A little patience and mimicking of nature is all you need for a delightful second bloom come spring. Just factor in that quiet, cool rest phase, followed by a gentle wake-up call in late February. This creates a natural transition, and easy encouragement to burst forth with that spectacular second flush. When you see those vibrant floral trumpets, the encore can be even more rewarding than the opening act. Roll on, spring…

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Lately, I seem to spend half my life daydreaming about my large future yard. I mentally plan out an orchard filled with fruit trees, coops to keep my chickens safe and beautiful whimsical details such as thoughtful paving slabs. One of my biggest daydreams, I have to say, is having more space. Sometimes I wish it were possible to make your yard seem twice as big just by waving a magic wand. In fact, there are ways to do this with one of the most functional aspects of a backyard design.

I've picked up a thing or two when it comes to backyard landscaping over the years, but I'm by no means an expert when it comes to designing a garden path. And while we tend to view paths as purely functional – a way to get from Point A to Point B without getting our shoes muddy – the truth can be a lot more eye-opening. In the world of professional landscaping, a path is a paintbrush. It dictates what we see first, where we look most, and most importantly, how we perceive the boundaries of our growing spaces.

So to help us out and fuel those romanticized yard visions, I spoke to landscaping experts to hear about those path design secrets – the path-specific landscaping tips and tricks that not only add the "wow" factor but also make your yard look huge. If you wish your garden looked a bit bigger, the right garden path is one of the most efficient and dynamic ways to impact space. Come on, it's time to harness the power of path design with some very clever visual shorthand!

Path Cheats to Make a Yard "Bigger"

Before we dive into these clever garden path ideas for making our yards seem double the size, it is important to understand the "why" behind these tricks. Making a garden look bigger isn't necessarily about physical renovation; it’s really about optical illusions. In a small space, the eye tends to hit the fence too quickly. When your vision stops abruptly at a boundary, your brain registers the space as small. By using specific path shapes and elements, though, you can manipulate perspective – a technique that artists call trompe l'oeil (“trick of the eye”).

With these pathway tricks, we are essentially slowing the eye down or tricking the brain into believing the path continues further than it actually does and covers more ground. The best part? These tricks require zero professional masonry skills. Whether you are laying mulch, gravel or pavers, these low-maintenance landscaping ideas work regardless of your budget or DIY experience. Read on to discover how to make a small garden look bigger with just a few simple pathway ideas.

1. Curved Pathways (Hidden Corners)

When most people think of pathways or paving slabs, they think of traditional squares lined up neatly. But according to Gene Cabellero, co-founder of GreenPal and long-time landscaper, curved paving designs are far superior for anyone hoping to make their yard look bigger.

"I've been in the landscaping industry for over 25 years and have worked with hundreds of homeowners," says Gene. "Curved paths are popular for anyone looking to add in some paving without making their yard seem visually smaller. They trick the eye into thinking a garden is bigger than it is in reality by creating a focal point, slowing a person's line of sight down, and adding visual depth through curves."

A straight path allows the eye to zip straight to the end of the garden, highlighting how short the distance is. A curve creates "hidden" corners. If you plant tall grasses or shrubs like lavender or hydrangeas in the elbows of these curves, you create a further sense of mystery – and depth. The brain wonders, what is around that bend? Naturally, we then assume there is more garden to explore.

You don't need expensive custom-cut stone. Curved paths can be achieved by placing square slabs at a slight angle, making them gradually snake instead of following a straight line. Alternatively, you can opt for less uniform shapes such as natural flagstones, clusters of compressed stones, Adobe Ridge Sandstone Pavers from Wayfair, or river pebbles, winding them down your garden. A measuring wheel like the Zozen Measuring Wheel from Amazon can help you to check the dimensions of your yard ahead of choosing where to place a pathway.

Planting Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa) along your curved path creates a cascading effect that enhances the curve. Pair this with hostas to make your curved path feel like a natural trail through a large woodland. You can buy a range of Hostas from Nature Hills.

2. Tapering Paths (Forced Perspectives)

You know those scenes in movies where a character walks through a narrow entryway before entering a spacious room? The room seems all the larger after they come out of the narrow space. This is forced perspective (a classic Disney theme park trick). This idea can be replicated through creating a tapered pathway design, starting off with a narrow passage near your patio (say) and having it lead into a wider point or destination toward the back of the garden.

"Similarly to curved designs, narrow pathways that widen gradually (or vice versa) can also trick the eye into making a garden seem a lot bigger than it really is," says Gene. This is because your body can feel the space around it open up with every step, easing feelings of claustrophobia and encouraging you to feel more aligned with existing in your outdoor space.

Gene notes this hack is even more effective if a homeowner opts for light-colored materials like gravel or stone that reflect light and open up tight spaces. Think white marble chips or light gray pea gravel. You can buy Ebern Designs Landscaping Gravel from Wayfair (pale green and pale mixed-tone are good options, but it is also available in other colors).

If you're placing gravel or loose stones in a path, it's best to invest in a lawn leveling rake like the BlumeTrec Landscaping Leveler from Amazon to ensure the stones are even to walk on. To emphasize the effect of a tapered path, alternate between sky pencil hollies at the front and shorter, soft-textured lavender at the back, making the end of the path seem further away. You can buy Sky Pencil Hollies from Nature Hills.

3. Stepping Stones (Fragmentation)

Stepping stones are another great way to create the illusion of a larger yard, as well as a functional form of paving. They work, again, through optical illusion, by using fragmentation, breaking up the open space of your lawn to trick the eye into perceiving more overall distance along the path.

"Stepping stones are another amazing trick, especially when a little grass or visual space is left between each stone," says Gene. When stepping stones are placed close together, a path design will look more continuous and heavy. But if they're placed some distance apart or in curving directions, the fragmentation draws attention away from straight, parallel lines (which can make a space feel tighter). Try these variations:

• The Minimalist Look: Use oversized slate rounds or ‘fake slate’ Arlmont & Co Decorative Stepping Stones from Wayfair for a modern, airy feel that pushes attention to the furthest destination point.
• The Rustic Look: Use irregular stepping stones with moss, creeping thyme, blue star creeper, or creeping Jenny planted between individual stones to add to the expansive feel of the yard. You can buy Golden Creeping Jenny from Nature Hills.
• The Floating Look: If you have a deck, interlocking wooden deck tiles like Yaheetech Interlocking Deck Tiles from Amazon create a "boardwalk" style stepping-stone path that feels high-end.

If you want to know how to make a garden look bigger, this is one of the most effective scaling tricks. By forcing the person walking to take slower, intentional steps, you are effectively lengthening the time it takes to traverse the yard. In the world of garden design, more time spent walking equals a garden that feels significantly larger.

Broaden Your Horizons

Now you’ve mastered some of the basics of optical trickery with your pathways, why not push the boundaries of your space even further? Try some of these strategies to make a modest or small space feel bigger, deeper, or fuller:

• Go Vertical with Trellises: When floor space is limited, look up. Using narrow obelisks or wall-mounted trellises encourages the eye to move vertically, making the garden feel taller and less cramped. You can buy Shop La La Wall Planters Wall Mounts from Amazon.
• Borrowed Landscape Trick: If your neighbor has a beautiful tree, don't hide it behind a tall, solid fence. Use a window in your hedge or a trellis fence to borrow their greenery, making your garden feel like it continues into theirs.
• Cool-Toned Planting: Stick to a palette of blues, purples, and whites at the far end of your garden. Warm colors (like reds and oranges) advance toward the eye, while cool colors recede, making the back fence feel miles away.
• Mirror Magic: It sounds strange, but an outdoor-rated mirror tucked behind some ivy can look like a doorway into another room of the garden. It doubles the light and the greenery instantly. Create a “secret garden” effect with an arched mirror like the Ebern Designs Arched Wall Mirror from Wayfair.
• Layer Your Heights: Don't plant everything at the same level. Use raised beds of varying heights. Creating different tiers breaks up the flat plane of a small yard, adding complexity and depth.

Frequently Asked Questions

Shop Paving Essentials

Creating a path for your yard can be such an easy way to create a dynamic visual shortcut that deceives the eye into believing your precious space is bigger – but don’t forget these path-perfect essentials for walkways that will be the envy of all your friends and neighbors:

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In a recent post to Instagram, Nate Berkus was clearly feeling moody as he shared a picture of a simple table for two, allowing the vase of flowers to do most of the talking (although the mirror in the background certainly tried to steal the show). What was in the vase? A bouquet of what appeared to be deep red dahlias; they were a tad dramatic and almost a bit defiant in the face of winter.

Just because the garden is asleep doesn’t mean we have to give up on summer flowers entirely, and this was the perfect reminder. For those who are desperate for some color during the grim winter months, this look can be done in two ways: you can force dahlias early (the earliest being the start of February) to get a head start on spring, or you can use winter-friendly alternative flowers to create the same rich, moody vibe inside.

Can You Really Grow Dahlias in Winter?

While they're technically considered a summer flower, dahlias can be started early indoors (usually from February onwards) in most climates. Forcing dahlias doesn’t mean you’ll get blooms right away, but it does mean healthier plants, slightly earlier flowers, and gives you something beat the winter blues.

To get started:

1. Plant your dahlia tubers in pots with well-draining potting mix
2. Put them in a bright room that is still cool (around 60-65 degrees Fahrenheit)
3. Water them lightly until you start to see some growth, and definitely don’t go overboard

Get the Look

The goal won’t be instant blooms (otherwise you should keep reading for stand-ins) but to have strong stems and a bit of leafy growth that will give you big rewards come early spring.

This Gardenera Premium Potting Mix from Amazon is made specifically for dahlias, meaning it contains peat moss and has great drainage.

Winter Stand-Ins That Mimic Dahlias

Now, if forcing dahlias is too complicated, not your thing, or you don’t have tubers stored away, you can still create some Nate Berkus-level drama with winter-blooming flowers in a similar color scheme. Look for some flowers with layered petals and a super deep burgundy color to get the same look as dahlias.

Some great alternatives include:

How to Arrange a Moody Winter Bouquet

Nate’s table setting worked because it looked purposeful and styled with velvet tops on the chairs, and a slightly antique aesthetic, but it was also restrained. You don’t need a massive arrangement to make an impact; in fact, smaller is better in winter.

To recreate the look:

• Choose a smaller vase with lower sides so your flowers have a more intimate feel rather than formal. This carved ceramic vase from Target has a great “vintage” feel to it.
• Stick with one color palette, like burgundy or wine-red.
• If you have too few flowers, which is also possible, add some greenery like eucalyptus, ivy, or olive branches.
• Don’t let all the flowers sit at the same height; vary it up a bit for a less “arranged” look.

Pro tip: Don’t overfill your vase. Leave some negative space to give that all-important “editorial” feel.

Caring for Cut Flowers in Winter

Indoor air in winter is notorious for drying out flowers, which is why most people don’t even bother. However, a few small tweaks can keep your blooms looking fresh for much longer:

• Rather than trimming your stems once and leaving them, trim them every few days
• Change your water every other day to keep your stems from rotting
• It may seem obvious, but it must still be said: keep your arrangement away from heat sources

Pro tip: If you have a small vase and your arrangement is falling in a way that looks messy rather than simply “unarranged” (yes, there’s a difference), try a floral frog like this one from Amazon to keep some of your flowers from falling over.

Why Winter Flowers Matter

Winter flower arrangements are more than just aesthetics, they’re a whole mood. A single vase of flowers in a rich color can soften the blow of gray days, make life feel a little more romantic, and remind you that the season for growing is still on its way, it’s simply on pause.

When Architectural Digest toured Kourtney Kardashian and Travis Barker’s Calabasas home, it was their open-air living room that was the standout space. It didn’t really feel like a “backyard” per se, but not quite a room either. Basically, it was a covered pergola-style seating area, or a “garden room.” It was framed by structured shrubs and trees, and gave off an incredibly Californian vibe.

Travis also shared photos of the space on Instagram.

Designer Waldo Fernandez, who was hired by Kourtney and Travis to give the home a refresh, explained it was created with an intentional calm. “Travis wasn’t looking for a major statement or any kind of caricatured rock-star style,” Fernandez recalled. “He wanted a home that would allow him to think and be at peace with himself."

The good news for you is that you don’t need a celebrity budget or their square footage to pull off a similar look, and you can start even in the midst of winter. A little planning during the cold months will ensure you have a yard that looks spring-ready rather than rushed.

What Is a Garden Room, Anyway?

Traditionally, a garden room refers to a standalone structure at the end of the yard – but the idea has evolved. Today, it’s just as often used to describe an outdoor zone that feels like a natural extension of the home.

It might be a dining nook, a calm reading nook, or a beautiful pathway that guides you through the yard. Shrubs, hedges, trellises, and pergolas can act like “walls” while seating areas, paths, or the plants you use can define how you will use the space.

Winter is often the best time to decide where your garden room will be and how it will look, while spring is the season for bringing these plans to fruition.

Here's my three-step plan to creating your own outdoor living space inspired by Travis and Kourtney.

Step 1: Prune for Shape, Not Size

This is the perfect time to look at your garden in detail, while everything is bare and stripped back. You can see the natural structure of your shrubs, and do some pruning that will help refine the shape while encouraging healthy growth come spring.

Your focus should be on:

• Snipping off odds and ends from overgrown hedges
• Making defined, clear edges around garden beds
• Opening up lines of sight where you want paths or seating areas

It should be less about cutting everything down, but rather framing the space. This Garden Guru pruning set is great, including hedge shears, bypass loppers, and pruning shears with heavy-duty comfort grip handles.

Step 2: Map Your Garden Rooms on Paper

Before touching anything or buying a single plant, sketch out a plan like a professional architect or landscaper would, even if it’s rough. Where would a potential pergola go? Or a trellis? Could you use tall shrubs to create a private seating area? Is there room for a narrow path lined with perennials? Let your imagination run wild a little bit; you can always scale back later. A guided gardening notebook will help you plan everything, like this Clever Fox journal from Amazon.

Keep in mind that a garden room doesn’t have to be big; even a 6-by-6-foot nook can feel just right if you define it well.

If you need some inspiration, The New Romantic Garden by Jo Thompson (available on Amazon) is a great read. It takes you through 30 stunning gardens that show how classic design ideas have been updated to be more sustainable.

Step 3: Think About How You’ll Use the Space

What will your garden room be for? It certainly needs a job, even if it’s just for lounging. Are you looking for small patio ideas for eating? Entertaining? Relaxing? Once you know what it’s for, your plant choices become much easier. For example, a dining area can benefit from fragrant potted herbs, while a quiet corner for relaxing can include some soft foliage.

And yes, this can all be planned while you’re sitting on your couch in a blanket, holding a cup of hot chocolate, and trying not to freeze.

Once spring arrives, you’ll be ahead of the game as you’ll already know what you’re going to do. A little planning in winter can turn gardening chaos into calm.

Pergola Picks

In a recent Instagram post, Ina Garten welcomed Daniel Roseberry, creative director for couture house Maison Schiaparelli, on her show Be My Guest, which airs on The Food Network and HBO. Roseberry effortlessly transformed simple bundles of flowers into a dramatic vase arrangement in mere minutes. It was a moment that made floral design feel aspirational yet entirely doable at the same time (very on brand for the Barefoot Contessa).

The takeaway? Winter flowers don’t have to be sparse or sad. With the right stems and a few smart techniques, arrangements during the colder months can feel lush and elevated. Whether you’re planning a dinner party and want to dress up your dining table or you’re just trying to make January feel less gray, here’s how to bring Ina-inspired florals into your home.

Choose Flowers That Thrive in the Cold Season

While summer flowers are known for their colour and abundance, winter arrangements rely more on structure, texture, and staying power. Many popular winter displays are made using flowers that are grown under cover, imported, or forced to bloom out of season rather than naturally flowering outdoors at this time of year. Good winter-friendly choices include:

• Roses – available year-round and long-lasting indoors when properly conditioned
• Ranunculus and anemones – typically grown under cover and widely available through florists in winter
• Tulips – especially forced varieties bred for winter flowering
• Hydrangeas – often used dried in winter arrangements, or fresh when sourced from growers
• Amaryllis – a true winter favourite, grown indoors and prized for its bold, architectural blooms

Pair your flowers with sturdier foliage such as eucalyptus, magnolia leaves, pine, cedar, or camellia branches. You can find seasonal flower bundles and greenery at Home Depot, which often carries hardier stems in winter. For example, this small magnolia tree is a great pick from which you can snip off a few branches.

Start With the Right Vase (Bigger Is Better)

One thing Roseberry demonstrated perfectly in Ina’s Instagram video is that scale matters. Winter arrangements benefit greatly from larger, heavier vases that can hold tall stems and fuller flowers.

Look for a vase with a wide mouth, made of glass or ceramic, that allows you to spread out the flowers and branches in a natural way. This green floral vase from Target has a lovely vintage vibe, while this ceramic design, which is 16 inches tall, gives you a great neutral starting place, as it’s white.

Pro Tip: If your arrangement feels sparse, it’s usually not a flower problem, but a vase mismatch.

Build Structure Before Adding Blooms

If you want a really professional look to your arrangement (which is kind of the point), then never start with flowers; always build your frame first.

Start by adding branches and greenery first, which creates height and an overall silhouette to work with. You’ll want loose triangle and oval shapes rather than too perfect symmetry. Once you have your structure, add the flowers in odd numbers, making sure to space them out and give each one room to breathe.

For ultra clean cuts – which is essential if you want your arrangement to last a long time – you’ll need a good pair of sharp shears that can cut woody stems as well as softer flowers. This 2-pack from Amazon has one pair of shears for tougher branches and one for flower stems.

Mix Heights and Textures for Depth

To really make your winter arrangement shine, play a bit with contrast. For example, combine taller branches with short, rounded flowers. Or play with contrasting textures, like soft petals and glossy or leathery leaves.

Pro Tip: One of the biggest mistakes people often make with flower arranging is trying to combine everything at the same height. Allow some of the stems to reach higher while others sit lower in the arrangement. This keeps everything from looking flat or overly crowded. A good rule to follow: Keep your tallest stems no more than 1.5 to 2 times the height of the vase.

Care Tips to Make Winter Arrangements Last

With the proper care, winter flowers can outlast their summer counterparts by a lot. But what is the proper care?

• Change water every 2–3 days
• Cut stems at an angle each time, and not just once
• Keep arrangements away from heat vents and direct sun

Ina Garten and Daniel Roseberry remind us that a beautiful flower arrangement doesn’t need to be overly complicated. Choose stems thoughtfully, balance the shapes, and go with a sturdy vase; you’ll have people asking you who sent the lovely flowers in no time.

Hidden cold spots slip through tiny gaps around windows, doors, and vents during colder months. These drafts strike tropical houseplants hardest – most originated in humid, consistently warm rainforests without sharp drops or dry winds. Leaves respond quick with blackened edges, sudden wilting, or mass dropping from repeated exposure.

Tropical houseplants thrive best with even temperatures and humidity. Damage can show up gradual or overnight – brown tips creep inward, new shoots twist deformed, stems soften near soil, or overall growth just stalls out cold. Keeping an eye out prevents small chills from turning into big diebacks.

Spotting the Signs of Draft Damage

Leaves broadcast trouble clearest and fastest. Edges crisp brown first, spreading inward as cold kills cells layer by layer. Affected tissue thins out, and turns almost see-through before going fully black, feeling brittle and dry when rubbed. Spots often start patchy, matching the direction of the air flow. The scent of soil stays fresh, but foliage suffers quietly.

• Whole leaves yellow between veins on touchy varieties like nerve plants or alocasias after.
• Ficus trees can shed heavy overnight, scattering green across floors from one harsh evening.
• Peace lilies sag limp, tips scorching dark without any burn from lights.
• Calatheas roll tight, prayer plants fold premature.
• Fern fronds speckle brown heavy.
• Orchids abort buds brown mid-development.
• Monsteras push split or stalled leaves.
• Palm tips brown in streaks.

Patterns always face the draft direction – check which side hits worst. Repeated exposure weakens roots over time too. Growth resumes slowly once moved.

Common Drafty Danger Zones

Windows lead the pack for sneaky chills, particularly older single-pane versions with worn seals. Cold air tumbles down glass in sheets, collecting coldest right at sill height where many pots perch. Frames contract in low temps, opening wider cracks around moving parts. Double-hung styles rattle loose easiest. Casement windows gap at hinges sometimes.

• Doors deliver bursts with every entry or exit – front halls catch repeated slams of outdoor air. Back doors or garages surprise equally.
• Heating systems add confusion: supply vents blast hot forward but returns pull cold from cracks nearby.
• Baseboard radiators near windows set up loops dragging chills across spaces.
• Unused fireplaces suck strong through open dampers or loose flues.
• Attic access stairs funnel down from unheated spaces above.
• Basement steps rise cold moisture.
• Exterior wall outlets leak steady through wiring holes.
• Even poorly insulated floors radiate up from crawl spaces.
• Leaky recessed lights drop air from attics.
• Sliding patio doors often don't seal tightly.
• Pet doors flap cold in quick.

Simple Ways to Detect Hidden Drafts

• Pick up thin incense sticks for tracing. Light one and hold it close along frames or bases – smoke twists sharp or streams sideways exactly where air sneaks through. Paths show clear, especially strong on windy afternoons. Repeat around all suspects slow. Combine with closing curtains to isolate rooms.
• Dampen the back of your hand and sweep gently over edges – cool rushes bite sharper against wet skin, marking tiny openings instantly.
• Ultra-light tissue squares flutter in flows too subtle otherwise.
• Downy feathers on string swing toward leaks.
• Smartphone thermal attachments like this from Amazon highlight cold zones quickly.
• Cotton balls can roll across sills in breezes.

Test multiple days since wind shifts directions. Mark every discovery with removable tape. Combine methods for confirmation – incense plus hand feeling nails most spots, though. Check at night too when the house settles cooler. Evening tests catch temperature drops well.

Blocking Drafts without Major Work

Temporary seals handle plenty without permanent changes. Apply adhesive foam weatherstripping around window insulators like this from Amazon – compresses snug through season but removes clean. Rope caulk presses into frame cracks by hand. Brush styles sweep door bottoms clean. The tape feels sticky but holds firm.

Draw heavy thermal-lined curtains across risky glass – fabric hangs thick, blocking wind chill effective. Long draft blockers like this from Amazon lie weighted along door bottoms, shifting easily when needed. Clear shrink film covers whole panes nearly invisible after a heat gun pass. Foam gaskets pop behind outlet covers quick. Rolled thick towels stuffed under doors offer a temporary solution. Bubble wrap layers tape to windows for surprising insulation boost. Magnetic vent covers redirect airflow away from plants. Silicone bead along loose frames cures clear and flexible. Add door sweeps for permanent feel without commitment. Layers build protection gradually.

When to Just Relocate the Plant

Fixed seals fail in some stubborn locations. Transfer sensitive tropicals deeper into living spaces with buffered walls and consistent heating. Upper shelves escape rising floor chills from concrete or tile. Avoid north-facing rooms if possible. The move feels simple but helps drastically.

Gather multiple pots close on stands or tables – shared mass steadies temperatures and raises humidity naturally. Central south rooms hold warmth longest daily. Mobile plant caddies roll and make adjustments simple as conditions change. Elevate containers on wooden risers off cold surfaces. Scout new positions carefully in the first week – unexpected radiator blasts or ceiling fans stir air too. Turn plants regularly for balanced light once placed. Clustering creates mini ecosystems that resist swings better than alone. Add humidity trays underneath for extra help in the dry heated air. New growth can perk up relatively quickly.

When Meghan Trainor recently posted a snap of her Christmas tree blooming with cheerful poinsettias, it wasn’t just a festive flex on her part; it was a reminder to all of us that these beauties aren’t just holiday décor. With the right poinsettia care, these festive beauties can bring eye-catching color indoors for months on end, delighting everyone from gardeners and serious plant parents to those with nothing more than a green pinky.

And, yes. Just like Meghan’s killer vocal range, these stunners can stick around long after the ornaments have been packed away.

Choose the Right Plant (and Don’t Judge It by the Foil)

Before you start obsessing over poinsettias after the holiday season, you’ll want to pick a healthy one to begin with. This one from Walmart grows up to 16 inches!

Here are some tips for picking the right poinsettia: Look for bright, fully formed bracts (those colorful leaves most people think are “flowers”), deep green foliage, and firm stems. Avoid plants with yellowing leaves or soggy soil.

Pro Tip: When your poinsettia is ready to be “rehoused,” a decorative pot is always important, but so is drainage; in fact, it’s key. A simple indoor planter like this one from Target allows roots to breathe and prevents overwatering.

Light: Bright and Cheerful – Just Like the Song

One reason poinsettias get a bad rap? People assume they require special light conditions. But, believe it or not, they don’t. They love bright, indirect light. Think, the kind of light you would gladly sit in while you sip your coffee, not the harsh midday sun that makes you have to squint, lest you burn your retinas.

Place your poinsettia near a sunny window with sheer curtains or use a grow light, like this LED lamp from Amazon, if your space doesn’t get a lot of natural light.

Pro Tip: Rotate it weekly to make sure all sides get sun exposure. This helps prevent one-sided growth and keeps your plant looking lush and even.

Watering Without Tears

Watering poinsettias is basically like walking the line between “just right” and “oops.” Here are a few tips:

• Water when the top inch of soil is dry.
• Water deeply so excess flows out the bottom, but DO NOT FORGET to empty the saucer. Think of this as the plant version of “walking it off.”
• Avoid waterlogged soil at all costs; poinsettias hate soggy roots.

This 4-in-1 moisture meter from Amazon takes the guesswork out of watering, and also checks soil temperature, pH, and light levels.

Temperature: Cozy, Not Arctic or Tropical

Like Goldilocks, poinsettias like it not too hot and not too cold; think human living room vibes. Ideally, keep the room temperature around 65–75°F (18–24°C). Keep them away from cold drafts from windows or doors as well as avoiding heaters or fireplaces that blast dry air and can make the leaves fall off.

Decor Tips That Don’t Disappoint

Poinsettias aren’t just average houseplants; they’re the epitome of a décor hero. Try these ideas for decorating:

• Group different poinsettia colors and sizes in a sunny corner.
• Use an elevated stand like this one from Lowe’s to create a mini indoor garden canopy.
• Mix in some evergreen branches or battery-operated candles.

Poinsettias don’t need to be wallflowers that are only displayed at Christmas. With the right light, watering, and daily care, you can make them a striking fixture in your house until spring.

BLACKPINK member and fashion muse Jisoo shared photos on Instagram in which she was attending a Cartier event. What really stole the show, however, was the red floral display behind her, at least if flowers are your thing, and they certainly are for us. The flowers gave an instant festive vibe with a luxurious and bold touch.

While red flowers naturally scream Christmas, especially at this time of year, there’s good news for gardeners and home decorators alike: red winter blooms don’t need to disappear the second the tree comes down.

With a few small tweaks, your red flowers and greenery can transition beautifully from festive to fresh, carrying your holiday decor well into January and beyond. The key is knowing how to cut, combine, and restyle them so they feel intentional rather than like leftovers from the holiday season.

Start With a Clean Cut (Literally)

If you’re using red winter flowers like amaryllis, roses, camellias, or even berry-laden branches, proper cutting is essential when it comes to extending their life.

Make sure you always use sharp, clean pruners or floral scissors to avoid crushing the stems. Try these needlenose pruning shears from Home Depot, as they have a curved, narrow tip that makes them ideal for snipping stems.

Cut your flower stems at a 45-degree angle and place them immediately in lukewarm water to increase water uptake and keep them hydrated longer. This is especially important in winter when indoor heat dries everything out.

For tougher, more woody stems like holly and camellia branches, split the bottom inch of the stem to help them absorb water faster and more efficiently.

Lose the Holiday Clutter, Keep the Color

What makes a floral display feel “Christmas-y” isn’t always the color, but rather what it’s paired with. Christmas floral displays tend to have pinecones, ornaments, glittery things, and ribbon, which instantly gives them a festive vibe.

After Christmas, strip your arrangement down to the bare bones. Remove novelty decor and let the flowers breathe. Rebuild the display with neutral or textural elements like eucalyptus, olive branches, magnolia leaves, or bare twigs.

A few artificial sprigs of eucalyptus (like this one available at Walmart) look great, or even try artificial pampas grass like this, also available at Walmart.

Refresh the Water (and the Vase)

One of the simplest ways to make a floral arrangement look fresh and take away the holiday aesthetic is to change out the container. Most Christmas floral displays have a shiny red or gold vase, but you can change it out for clear glass, ceramic, or stoneware. Amazon has a fantastic selection of minimalist vases (like this one that comes in a set of 3), and it’s easy to find neutral shapes that will work all winter long.

While you’re at it, refresh all the water completely; it’s cleaner, and good feng shui. Clean the vase with warm, soapy water to remove bacteria buildup, then refill it with fresh, room-temperature water. If you have flower food, use it. However, a tiny drop of bleach (about ¼ teaspoon per quart of water) can help slow bacterial growth and extend the life of your flowers.

Mix Red Blooms With Hardy Winter Foliage

To help shift your red flowers from a Christmas party look to chic, balance them with some hardy greenery. While this can sound too Christmas-y, it doesn’t have to be; think boxwood sprigs, cedar, juniper, or even ornamental grasses.

Keep the arrangement loose and more asymmetrical. Odd numbers of stems look more natural, and leaving a bit of negative space gives the display a more modern winter-forward feel rather than a holiday centerpiece.

Extend the Life of Potted Red Flowers

In some cases, your red winter flowers may be potted, like if you have amaryllis or cyclamen, so placement will be everything. Move them away from heat sources like vents, fireplaces, and direct sunlight. Cooler rooms will extend the life of your flowers.

Use a well-draining pot and only water it when the top inch of soil feels dry. If the drainage is questionable, it’s best not to chance it and repot your plant in a container with proper drainage holes. These ones from Amazon are self-watering, which is perfect if you tend to forget your plants or don’t enjoy sticking your finger in the soil to check if it’s dry.

Style for the Long Winter Ahead

Once you’ve refreshed your holiday arrangements and you’re happy with how they look, think beyond the usual dining table. Red winter flowers can look stunning on entryways, bedside tables, or kitchen counters where they can be enjoyed daily.

With a bit of pruning and thoughtful additions, your festive flower display can easily become sophisticated winter decor, no holiday leftovers in sight.

If anyone can make us rethink our preconceptions about home design and gardening, it’s TV personality and entrepreneur Joanna Gaines. In a recent Instagram post, she shared a close-up shot of stunning winter flowers in a small glass vase. It was proof that gardens don’t need to be dull and dormant when temperatures drop.

Rather than bare branches and endless evergreens (which we love, but green can get boring after 4 months straight), her post showed that pops of purple, blue, and pink can feel downright rebellious during the winter months.

The small bouquet appeared to include Icelandic poppies and delphiniums – with the latter being particularly unusual for this time of year. These are excellent reminders that winter gardens can still surprise us with late-blooming plants.

Joanna lives in Texas, in USDA zone 8, where there is more choice of winter bloomers. However, believe it or not, there are plenty of hardy flowers that thrive in colder zones too, which can be cut to bring color, texture, and even a little fragrance to your house on dark days.

Here are five of the most colorful winter-blooming flowers, and how to care for and style them indoors or out.

1. Camellias

Camellias are the drama queens of winter gardens, in the best way possible. They have glossy, evergreen leaves and large, rose-like flowers that steal the spotlight from late fall, all the way through early spring.

Outdoor care: Camellias do best in partial shade, with a well-draining, slightly acidic soil. If you really want to keep them happy, put them in a protected spot away from the wind. Add some mulch to insulate roots in case there is a cold snap or if you live in a place with particularly cold winters. Garden mulch from Home Depot works well for this.

Indoor styling: If you cut the branches to bring inside, put them in a tall vase for an elegant table centerpiece. One camellia bloom is so gorgeous that it can carry an entire room, and Joanna Gaines clearly knows this.

2. Hellebores

Hellebores are often called Christmas roses or Lenten roses, and they’re true stars of the winter garden. These will bloom when almost nothing else will, giving you shades of white, pink, green, and deep purple throughout the cold months.

Outdoor care: Hellebores thrive in partial shade and tolerate frost easily. Remove old leaves in late winter to show off the flowers and improve airflow. In very cold regions, breathable frost protection, like this fleece from Amazon, can help protect flower buds during extreme cold.

Indoor styling: Hellebores look great in low bowls or rustic containers, like this white vase from Target. Keep them cool indoors, away from heat vents, to extend their bloom time.

3. Ipheion

Ipheion, also known as spring starflower, may look delicate, but it’s surprisingly tough as nails. Its star-shaped purple or blue flowers are an early winter-to-spring treat.

Outdoor care: Plant these bulbs in well-draining soil and full sun or at least light shade. Once established, these are super low-maintenance.

Indoor styling: Group several of these together to create a soft, meadow-like bouquet on windowsills to bring a little life to your neighborhood.

4. Winter Jasmine

Despite its name, winter jasmine is a cheerful, summery-looking flower that brightens a gray winter afternoon. While they don’t have much scent, the color alone makes them worthwhile.

Outdoor care: Winter jasmine is extremely hardy and loves full sun. It works well when spilling over walls or covering the ground on slopes.

Indoor styling: Cut branches can be forced indoors in water. If they’re already bloomed, place them in a simple glass vase to really let the bright yellow color do the talking.

5. Cyclamen

Cyclamen are winter favorites as they do well in pots or containers, and they have marbled leaves with flowers in pink, red, white, and purple.

Outdoor care: In milder climates, cyclamen thrive outdoors in partial shade. In colder areas with harsh winters, they should be treated as seasonal container plants and protected during hard freezes.

Indoor styling: Cyclamen look simply charming on tabletops, shelves, and entryways. Keep them in cooler rooms with bright, indirect light. Water them from the bottom to avoid rotting on the crown. Neutral colors pair beautifully with the brightness of these flowers, so try a neutral vase like this one from Amazon.

Joanna Gaines’ Instagram photo proves that your winter garden doesn’t have to be boring, dull, or only green. With the right flowers, your garden or living room can still feel alive, colorful, and intentional.

Now that the new season of Emily in Paris has dropped, it’s hard not to fall back in love with the real star of the show: Paris itself. Cobblestone streets, iron balconies, perfectly clipped greenery – Paris has a way of looking stylish in every season, including winter. That effortless elegance can translate perfectly into your own garden, and you don’t even need to go through airport security!

With a few specific plant choices and design details, you can create a chic, winter-ready garden that feels straight out of Emily’s Instagram feed, no beret required (but encouraged, of course).

Start With Structure: Evergreens Are Everything

In French garden design, structure always wins. Winter is when the bones of a garden really matter, so evergreens become the foundation of your space. Boxwood, yew, holly, and dwarf conifers provide greenery all year long and clean lines that feel especially Parisian.

You can use these to line pathways or frame doorways. If your space is limited, evergreen shrubs in containers work just as well, and you have the benefit of being able to rearrange your “garden” depending on your mood.

Pro tip: Restraint is key. Rather than using a ton of different plants, simply repeat the same evergreen shapes throughout your garden to create cohesion.

Add Subtle Winter Blooms

A Parisian winter garden is never loud, especially when it comes to color. It whispers. It’s subtle. Hardy winter-blooming plants add just enough softness to hold interest but never overwhelm the aesthetic.

Hellebores are a must. Hellebore flowers come in several soft shades of white, pink, and deep plum. They feel romantic and refined, especially when set against dark green foliage. Walmart sells these live hellebores in packs of 5 or 8.

Camellias are another great choice as they have glossy leaves and bold colored flowers that feel right at home in a Parisian-inspired setting. Winter jasmine adds a yellow touch to brighten up gray days, and cyclamen provides pops of pink, red, and white.

Embrace Topiary (Yes, Really)

When you see a topiary, you’re instantly transported into a Parisian garden or even the Palace of Versailles. Clipped spheres, cones, and spirals bring elegance and drama, something Emily in Paris thrives on.

While that may seem high-maintenance or intimidating, it doesn’t need to be. Start simple with some boxwood balls in containers or a pair of matching shapes on either side of an entryway. Even one sculpted plant can elevate a whole garden or outdoor space and make it feel curated rather than just thrown together. This Boxwood Renaissance from Walmart starts small, and you can easily shape it with a pair of pruning shears. These ones from Amazon are perfect for cutting branches.

Style With Pots, Not Beds

A Parisian garden leans heavily on containers, and winter is really where this approach pays off. Potted plants allow you to do all the work, like layering evergreens and winter-blooming flowers, without disturbing your garden beds.

Stick with classic pieces to keep the French feel, especially in light or neutral tones. Materials like terracotta, stone, or aged metal work wonderfully, and a neutral color allows the plants to take center stage without being overpowered.

Pro tip: Vary the height slightly to keep arrangements relaxed rather than rigid. These tall pots from Amazon are classically French and great with topiaries, while this vintage ceramic flower pot (also available on Amazon) looks straight out of a Parisian antique shop.

If you’re expecting the weather to get particularly cold, move the containers closer to walls or into sheltered corners.

Accessories Matter (But Less Is More)

A Parisian garden obviously needs a few carefully chosen accessories. Simple iron benches, stone planters, lanterns, or even understated statues. These elements add visual interest, which is especially important in winter when you don’t have flowers doing the heavy lifting.

French style is curated and definitely not overcrowded or cluttered. Be intentional when choosing your pieces, as one beautiful lantern or bench can do more than five mismatched decorations. Amazon has tons of French-style iron benches, including this one that's also pretty comfy.

Keep It Effortless

The secret to Parisian anything is that it never looks overdone; not hair, makeup, outfits, houses, or gardens. Allow plants to breathe and resist the urge to overcrowd. Focus on balance rather than abundance.

An Emily in Paris–inspired winter garden isn’t about fighting the season, but embracing it with style. With some evergreen structure, subtle flowers, and thoughtful details, you can embrace the Parisian aesthetic just as much as Emily.

The Holiday is a favorite Christmas movie because it’s pure escapist comfort; crackling fires, snow-dusted hedges, and that impossibly cozy setting where Jude Law somehow looks even better wearing glasses. If you’ve ever wished your backyard felt like the charming English countryside cottage in the movie, you’re in luck. While we can’t whisk you off to Surrey, we can help you turn your garden into a winter retreat that feels just as magical.

With the right plants, textures, and lighting, your outdoor space can become a romantic cold-weather escape perfect for sipping something warm, stargazing, or simply pretending you’re living your own movie moment.

Start With Fragrant, Classic Evergreens

English cottage gardens thrive on structure, and winter is when evergreens really have their opportunity to shine. Choose varieties that add fragrance and form for a timeless countryside feel.

Holly: Holly is obviously a classic when it comes to Christmas scenery. With glossy leaves and bright red berries, it’s straight out of a storybook. Put your holly shrubs near entryways or along fences for a traditional cottagecore look. This dwarf holly shrub from Walmart grows up to 5 or 6 feet.

Boxwood: For a softer, more manicured shape, boxwood is perfect. Its evergreen density adds structure even on the grayest days. You can use boxwood to line pathways, frame a patio, or create a small hedge around a seating corner. This Japanese boxwood is sold at Walmart and grows well in winter.

Bring in Winter-Blooming Flowers for Subtle Romance

A true winter wonderland garden needs just a touch of delicate color, nothing showy. There should be soft blooms that feel like they belong in a snowy cottage landscape.

Hellebores: These are often called Christmas or Lenten roses and are the stars of winter gardens. Their flowers bloom in pink, white, purple, or cream while most plants are dormant. Hellebores' ability to bloom in cold weather makes them perfect for adding a bit of romance.

Cyclamen: This is another beauty, loved for its heart-shaped leaves and elegant blooms. Hardy species like Cyclamen coum are ideal for winter and early spring. They tuck themselves into shady corners or underneath shrubs.

Layer Textured Shrubs for Depth and Drama

Winter landscapes depend heavily on texture. Think of the variety of hedgerows seen in The Holiday movie. The appeal comes from how shrubs of different heights and shapes overlap.

Try mixing witch hazel, viburnum, winterberry, and dwarf conifers. Even without flowers, their branching patterns, berries, and foliage add some life to the cold winter months. Textured shrubs also provide essential shelter for birds, which brings a bit of countryside charm right to your door.

If you’re looking for rustic containers, try this Threshold planter from Threshold planter from Target. To build some layers, try another one of a different height, like this Hearth and Hand outdoor planter basket, also from Target.

For even more texture, add branches along with seed heads, berries, and dried herbs for authentic countryside charm.

Paul Hervey-Brookes, a multi-award-winning garden designer, says “I grow a lot of dogwood, Cornus, and some Salix. To get the best from them, they should be stooled – cut to the ground every second year – which means their colorful branches can be used in containers to add drama or even made into supports and wreaths in rich shades of red and light green.”

Create Intimate Seating Nooks, Cottage-Style

No winter retreat is complete without a cozy spot to linger. This is where you channel pure The Holiday charm.

Choose a tucked-away corner, like a pergola, alcove, or even a small bench under a tree. Add fairy lights, lanterns, or battery-powered candles to create a soft glow. These outdoor fairy lights from Amazon have larger bulbs and a remote for convenience.

Add blankets, a small outdoor rug, and maybe a couple of weatherproof cushions. Place potted boxwood or winter flowers around the seating area for structure and warmth.

A Garden Worthy of Your Own Cozy Movie Moment

Transforming your garden into an English countryside retreat doesn’t require snow-covered cottages or Hollywood magic. With fragrant evergreens, winter-blooming flowers, textured shrubs, and a thoughtfully lit seating area, you can create a space that feels romantic, rustic, and delightfully transportive.

Not every garden design begins with a master plan. In fact, many of the most beautiful, characterful spaces start with nothing more than curiosity – the desire to try something new, experiment with plants, and notice the small shifts that happen through the seasons. Curiosity encourages gardeners to find joy in unexpected textures, scents, and colors, even in the coldest months of the year.

It’s this spirit of experimentation that inspired soccer legend David Beckham on his forthcoming garden design collaboration. Sir David has partnered with the RHS and The King’s Foundation to help create the Curious Garden, a show garden planned for the Chelsea Flower Show 2026. Although it will be a few months before we can see the finished design, the garden’s purpose is already clear: to inspire people – especially those who feel new to gardening – to explore, investigate, and grow with confidence.

“In my experience, gardening is all about being curious,” said Beckham. “I’ve experienced how rewarding gardening can be, and that’s why I’m looking forward to working with the RHS and The King’s Foundation on their Curious Garden. I hope we inspire people to get outside into nature and to try something new.”

The RHS describes the future garden as one that will be brimming with take-home ideas for windowsill gardeners, container growers, and anyone working with limited space. It will encourage visitors to grow more plant varieties, propagate new ones, and discover how gardening enriches our health, happiness, and connection to the planet.

And while Beckham’s Curious Garden won’t be unveiled until 2026, its guiding values – curiosity, calm, and the beauty of learning through nature – are all ideas that you can skillfully bring into your winter garden ideas right now.

How to Bring Curiosity Into Your Winter Garden

Using a few thoughtful plant choices and natural accents, you can bring home the reflective and personal feeling of the season for your family and guests. Rather than leaning on flashy décor like multi-colored lights or a giant light-up Santa Claus, use natural touches – winter-loving plants, fragrant greenery, foraged materials, and softer lighting – to create a garden that feels intentional and quietly festive.

Choose Winter-Hardy Plants With Presence

A "Curious Winter Garden" starts with fragrant evergreen shrubs and winter bloomers that hold their shape and provide the structure your outdoor space needs at this time of year.

Paul Hervey-Brookes, a multi-award-winning garden designer, told us that you should also look beyond the obvious conifers and truly bring the spirit of “curiosity” to the season. He explains, “I love Lonicera x standishii ‘Budapest’. In summer, you can grow a flowering climber over it, but in winter, its flushed purple, highly fragrant flowers bring a rich ambiance to any space.”

This shrub is especially effective near doorways or paths where its scent can be appreciated even on cold days.

Another standout, says Hervey-Brookes, is Skimmia ‘Kew Green’, which performs beautifully in pots. “I also like to grow Skimmia ‘Kew Green’ in a container, as it responds better. It’s a great evergreen, winter-flowering foil for lots of other things and stands out alone,” he tells us.

You can find skimmia, dwarf conifers, and other container-friendly shrubs at big box stores like Walmart, which sells this five-pack of boxwood shrubs.

Design With Containers for Flexibility

Container gardens are ideal for Christmas decorations, especially in winter. You can move plants where you need to, whether that’s by the front door, along pathways, or framing an outdoor seating area.

Choose sturdy, frost-resistant pots. Make sure you slightly elevate them to protect the roots. Hervey-Brookes says drainage is the single most important factor when it comes to a successful winter garden. “The crucial thing is drainage. We all think it’s wet weather, but actually, if the water cannot drain out of the pot and it gets frozen in the soil, this is when roots get damaged. Lifting pots and containers onto pot feet is my number one winter rule.”

Amazon sells pot feet and risers, like these from UFelice, which come in a 24-pack.

Add Natural, Foraged Holiday Details

To embrace the Curious Garden philosophy, go with simple, natural materials. In winter, especially at Christmas, that means branches, berries, seed heads, pinecones, and evergreen cuttings, many of which you can forage from your own garden.

To give your containers height, tuck in evergreen branches. You can also weave berry stems through railings or arrange pinecones and greenery in shallow bowls. Pair these with a rustic container for an understated look. This whiskey-barrel-style pot from Target has drainage holes and works beautifully outdoors.

Include Aromatic Herbs for Use and Beauty

Herbs are a wonderful way to bring the garden into your holiday cooking. Rosemary, thyme, sage, and bay all grow well in containers and keep their structure through winter in many regions.

Keep a cluster of herb pots near your door so you can snip fresh sprigs for roasted vegetables, stuffing, garnishes, or your Christmas turkey. These herbs can also double as decor – tie small bundles with twine or use sprigs as napkin rings or wreath accents.

Avoid Common Winter Container Mistakes

Small gardens and containers need extra care during winter, especially when decorated for the holidays. Hervey-Brookes warns, “I think we tend to forget a small container can dry out in winter. A common mistake is thinking it’s cold and wet so containers will be fine, but actually a weekly check to make sure they’re not overly dry is a good idea to keep things ticking over.”

Check soil moisture regularly, avoid waterlogged pots, and shelter containers from harsh wind where possible.

A Curious Approach to the Season Ahead

David Beckham’s Curious Garden serves as a reminder that gardening is less about achieving perfection and more about exploring nature with an open mind. By slowing down, using what you have, and embracing the small sensory moments of winter, you can create a garden that feels warm, inviting, and wonderfully personal – long before spring arrives.

Some holiday decor stops you in your tracks – not because it’s loud or glittery, but because it’s unexpectedly beautiful. Three years on, I can't stop thinking about Chrissy Teigen and John Legend's stunning pampas grass Christmas tree. It was a neutral-colored, minimalist creation with a light aesthetic. Rather than pesky needles that dry and fall off or ornaments that can break, their tree featured soft plumes that looked like feathers, warm tones, and heaps of natural texture. The earth-toned, unexpected display proved that holiday decorations don’t have to follow tradition to feel festive and Christmassy.

If you’ve ever looked at the ornamental grasses in your garden and wondered what to do with them, now is your time. This year, bring them inside for a quirky Christmas tree. Pampas grass, miscanthus, pennisetum, calamagrostis, and other tall grasses can be arranged to mimic a tree, and with a little creativity, your garden’s texture can become the star of your living room. More importantly, let them inspire you to experiment with textural grasses in your garden in the new year.

Start With Pampas Grass as the Star

Pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana) is the natural choice for a holiday “tree.” It’s oversized, feathery plumes create instant volume, especially when gathered into a cone shape.

If you don’t grow pampas grass in your garden, you can find dried pieces like these on Amazon. And, if you want to start growing it in time for next Christmas, try this one from Southern Living Plant Collection, available at Lowe’s.

Use Miscanthus & Tall Grasses to Build Structure

Chrissy and John’s pampas tree worked because it mixed height and texture, and miscanthus is perfect for that. The upright stems and tassel plumes make a great frame for a tree-like display.

According to leading ornamental grass specialist Neil Lucas, “Many of the main groups, such as the pampas and miscanthus, are perfectly fine when used as cut flowers. By this time of year, they’re effectively dried anyway, so they tend to last well without water. They can also be sprayed different colors very effectively, though personally I feel they work best in more restrained tones like silvers and golds.”

If you want even more texture or need filler material for your arrangement, consider pennisetum (fountain grass), calamagrostis, panicum, molinia, or deschampsia.

Build a Tree-Like Arrangement

You can create your own pampas “tree” in two ways:

1. Use a real tree frame: A tomato cage or wire cone, like this one from Amazon, makes an excellent base. Zip-tie grass stems around the structure from bottom to top. This creates a stable, sculptural shape.

2. Use a large vase or urn: Put tall bunches at the back, medium in the center, and smaller grasses toward the front. This creates a soft, cascading silhouette. For an added holiday look, wrap warm white string lights around.

Combine Grasses with Dried Flowers & Winter Greens

A natural, outdoorsy look is what makes grass-based décor feel polished rather than rustic. Lucas expands on this, saying, “Grasses work so well in gardens because they offer a distinctive linearity – from their leaves to their overall habit – which can be recreated very effectively in festive displays. They also offer an immense variety in flower shape and form. Combined with dried flower heads of perennials such as Joe Pye weed, and perhaps some seasonal green from conifers and red-stemmed Cornus, you can create truly distinctive, seasonally appropriate arrangements.”

Think of your grasses as the “base” and everything else, like dried seed heads, evergreen sprigs, branches, or berries, as finishing touches.

Chrissy Teigen and John Legend showed the world that a bit of nature from your own garden can transform holiday decorations into something more creative than just putting ornaments on a Christmas tree.

Amongst all the holiday crafting, baking, and chatting in With Love, Meghan on Netflix, there was one quiet detail that stood out to garden lovers everywhere: her Christmas tree decorated with simple pieces of dried fruit. No glitter or plastic, just slices of glowing citrus against soft evergreen branches. The look feels thoughtful, classy, and natural; very Meghan Markle. It’s perfectly aligned with her understated garden-forward aesthetic.

The good news for those inspired by the Duchess of Sussex? This kind of tree is super easy to recreate at home using fruits you probably already have on hand in your kitchen. With a little patience, creativity, and some evergreen accents, you can transform citrus, apples, pinecones, and greenery into a beautiful Christmas display.

Choosing the Right Fruit to Dry

Citrus fruits are a classic choice when it comes to dried decorations, and for good reason: oranges, lemons, and grapefruits dry well, hold their shape artfully, and have unique colors. Patti Estep, an expert in gardening, DIY, and seasonal decor, as well as owner of Hearthandvine.com, says, “I do love to use dried citrus fruit for decorating. Interestingly, grapefruit looks like large orange slices once dried.”

Apples are another excellent option, especially for gardeners who want to add color contrast. Estep says, “Once I did dry apples and they were pretty too. I used Red Delicious so that the dark skin added a bit of contrast – and for the holidays, dark red is always nice.”

Estep says that whole fruits can be trickier. “Whole fruit is harder. When I dried whole clementines, I set them out to dry, but did not leave enough room, and they molded. Air flow is key." It’s best to stick with thin slices for the best results.

How to Dry Fruit Successfully

Drying fruit is quite simple, but technique still matters. Start by slicing fruit evenly, about ¼ inch (0.5 cm) thick. Estep advises, “Make sure you sop up the extra liquid after cutting the fruit with paper towels.”

Most home gardeners use an oven, though it's a good idea to buy a dehydrator if you want to dry fruit more regularly. They can be used to preserve much of your garden harvest, including tomatoes, peppers, and herbs. You can get some great budget-friendly dehydrators on Amazon, like this one from VITAS store.

Estep uses an oven, saying, “I use my oven to dry them. Usually, the lowest setting works well. Place them directly on the oven racks or use an oven-safe baker’s rack. Every couple of hours, flip the fruit.”

Drying can take several hours, depending on how thick you make the slices and the moisture content. Don’t rush it; the fruit should feel leathery rather than sticky.

Estep says, “Even when they seem dry from the oven, they can often use more time, so letting them sit out in single layers is a good idea.”

Pair Fruit With Evergreens & Natural Elements

Once it’s dried, the fruit looks absolutely delightful when paired with greenery. Evergreen branches like pine, fir, cedar, and spruce add scent as well as structure to your Christmas tree. To complement the natural look, add pinecones, bay leaves, rosemary sprigs, or cinnamon sticks.

You can, of course, source fresh greenery from your own garden, while big-box stores sell affordable seasonal decor, like these cinnamon sticks from Good & Gather at Target.

As for attaching fruit, simplicity wins. Estep tells us, “As far as how to combine them with greenery, I often use hot glue to adhere the fruit to whatever I am working with. You can try using floral wire or twine, but they will show.”

For tabletop displays or mantel décor, another easy option is skipping attachments completely. Estep adds, “The easiest option is placing them in a big wooden bowl like potpourri.” Try something like this wooden bowl from Hearth & Hand at Target.. It’s the perfect shape and can be used year-round.

Styling a Natural, Sustainable Tree

When decorating your tree, less is more, which is definitely the Meghan Markle aesthetic. Space fruit slices evenly so light filters through them, giving a stained-glass effect.

You can add warm white string lights underneath the branches, like these battery-operated fairy lights from Amazon, to enhance the translucent glow. This style looks incredibly tasteful on full-size trees, tabletop trees, or even outdoor evergreens in mild climates.

Storing Dried Fruit Decorations

Many gardeners also just compost their fruit decorations after Christmas is over and make fresh ones next year, making it a sustainable and fun tradition. However, if you keep them in airtight containers – such as glass jars or bags – in a cool, dark, dry place, they can last for several years.

This lovely DIY project brings the garden indoors and celebrates the beauty of natural, simple materials, just as Meghan Markle often does.

Kourtney Kardashian shared a glimpse of her deep-red Thanksgiving table on Instagram Stories, and gardeners everywhere made heart eyes. The layered reds were unmistakably seasonal yet moody and natural; it felt intentional rather than overdone.

With a little planning, you can create your own holiday cut garden focused on red tones that lets you to harvest fresh stems, berries, and evergreen foliage throughout the winter months. The result? A gorgeous table arrangement that feels alive, personal, and endlessly refreshing.

Shop the Look

What to Grow for a Red-Focused Cut Garden

The key to a successful holiday cutting garden is diversity. You’ll want flowers, berries, and foliage that mature at slightly differing times and still hold up indoors. A tricky ask, but it can be done.

Poinsettias: The obvious star of Christmas (after the tree, of course). Unfortunately for poinsettias, they’re often treated as disposable houseplants. Once Christmas is over, most people don’t bother keeping them around. But these can be grown intentionally for cutting. Look for varieties that have been bred for branching rather than single-stem forms. Poinsettias are widely available in winter – these ones from Walmart are perfect.

Winterberry: For berry color, plant winterberry holly (Ilex verticillata). This drops its leaves in winter and reveals vivid red berries. Keep in mind, you’ll need both male and female plants for fruiting. For other long-lasting red accents, try cotoneaster and rose hips.

If you want your arrangement to have a bit more structure, evergreen stems are essential. Try spruce, fir, pine, boxwood, and yew to bring a bit of holiday flair to the table.

Prune for Continuous Cutting

The more you cut plants, the more they produce. For shrubs like winterberry, make sure you prune selectively; don’t remove more than one-third of the stems at a time. This keeps the plant healthy, while still giving you enough material for your arrangements all season long.

Evergreens also benefit from good pruning. Keep in mind, though, you should always cut secondary branches rather than the central leaders. Also, make sure you vary where you cut so plants retain their natural shape.

These bypass shears from Lowe’s have an ergonomic grip and are used for cutting flower stems as well as shrubs and small tree branches.

Condition Stems for Longer-Lasting Arrangements

Even after you’ve harvested your stems, how you treat them makes a big difference in how long your arrangement stays party-ready.

Start by cutting stems early in the morning, as that’s when plants are most hydrated. Immediately place them in a bucket of lukewarm water. To prevent bacteria buildup, cut away any foliage that sits below the waterline.

Woody stems like holly, boxwood, or rose hips should be split at the base or lightly crushed with pruners to make water uptake easier for them. Evergreen stems will last weeks if kept cool and get new water every few days.

If you have poinsettias, you’ll need to complete one extra step. Briefly dip the cut ends in hot water to stop the milky sap from sealing the stem. It’s a little thing, but it will dramatically extend the life of cut poinsettias when they are kept in a vase.

Styling a Red Holiday Table

When it comes to styling your red flowers, you'll want abundance rather than stiffness. Think loose arrangements down the center of the holiday table, small clusters of berries in bud vases, or single evergreen stems tied with twine (available on Amazon) for a rustic yet elegant touch.

Layer lots of textures: glossy leaves with matte berries and feathery evergreens. Allow red be the unifying thread rather than the only color. If you want the red color to really pop, add deep green, hints of brown, or neutral linens. By doing this, the red stands out without overwhelming the table. This Hearth & Hand table runner from Target is a light beige color and has little green accents on the side.

Elsa Pataky, model, actress, and wife to Chris Hemsworth, shared a glimpse of her Christmas tree on Instagram in 2023, and left fans scratching their heads. Many people are aware that the couple lives with their children in Byron Bay, Australia, and in December it’s summer time there. So, how do they keep their Christmas tree healthy in a warm and sunny climate, rather than the snow-dusted wintery setup? And what about people with a fireplace?

If you live somewhere warm, have a sunny home, or your tree is in a living room with a fireplace, you can absolutely make it work without watching your Christmas tree turn yellow and dry out before the holidays are over.

Choose Heat-Tolerant “Christmas Trees” for Warm Areas

More traditional firs and spruce varieties love cold weather, so they'll certainly struggle in a warmer climate or even a warm room. Instead, look for potted evergreens that can handle heat and sun a bit better.

Great options include:

• Norfolk Island pine
• Lemon cypress
• Italian stone pine
• Rosemary trained into a tree form

You can get a starter Norfolk Island Pine at Lowe’s that works beautifully as a living Christmas tree.

According to Paloma Cariñanos of the Department of Botany at the University of Granada in Spain, “Species more typical of Mediterranean climates are increasingly being used, such as cypresses, which are also favored by their conical shape, pines (P. halepensis), which can be decorated indoors and outdoors, and olive trees are becoming increasingly common outdoors.”

Bonus Tip: Get a potted version rather than a cut tree so you can plant it and reuse it year after year.

Create a Cool, Shaded Garden Nook Outdoors

If you're decorating a tree outdoors, keep it in a protected spot like a covered patio, pergola, or shaded porch. This mimics the forest understory where many evergreens naturally grow.

Use light-colored, breathable pots like terracotta or concrete to keep roots cool. This large terra cotta-style pot from Amazon has a drainage hole and can be used indoors or outdoors.

Bonus Tip: Put your tree in an area where it gets bright but indirect light rather than the harsh, afternoon sun.

Keep the Soil Consistently Moist

Cariñanos tells us, “It is very important to keep the soil consistently moist.” This is the most important tip for keeping a Christmas tree in a warm climate.

Warm air dries out soil quickly, especially in container-grown Christmas trees. Check the soil daily by sticking your finger in to about 1 inch deep. If it feels dry, water it thoroughly until it drains out the hole from the bottom.

Cariñanos recommends installing drip irrigation or adding water continuously. She also says, “Moistening the leaves with a spray bottle is also beneficial. Installing lights in containers increases both the amount of sunlight and the risk of dehydration, and may necessitate more frequent and intense watering.”

These self-watering plant globes from Amazon are perfect and come with a pH and moisture sensor.

Bonus Tip: To slow the evaporation process, add mulch on top of the soil, like pine bark or coconut coir.

Protect Your Tree from Heat Sources Indoors

Obviously, if you'll have your Christmas tree indoors, as most of us do, placement is of the utmost importance. Put it as far away from fireplaces, heating vents, and radiators as possible. Try your best to display the tree in a bright corner with steady temperatures.

Try using a plant stand that lifts your tree off hot flooring and improves air circulation. This Tree Nest from Amazon is perfect and has a cool Scandinavian look.

Bonus Tip: A small room humidifier near your tree can prevent the dreaded needle dropping and browning.

Decorate Lightly and Naturally

If you live in a warm climate, it’s best to decorate with lighter decor rather than going full-on Home Alone. Skip heavy tinsel and opt for:

• Wooden ornaments
• Dried orange slices
• Raffia bows
• LED micro-lights

Enjoy a Tree That Lives Beyond Christmas

Cariñanos notes that heat-tolerant options like Pinus halepensis and Cupressus species tolerate dry, warm indoor air surprisingly well, although cypress pollen can be allergenic for sensitive people. For patios, trees like olive, laurel, holm oak, or even pomegranate thrive beautifully in containers.

One thing, Cariñanos says, remains true for all of them: “Any leafy species… needs plenty of water and moist but well-drained soil to prevent waterlogging and fungal growth.”

Elsa Pataky’s warm-weather Christmas tree is an inspiration to everyone who doesn't have that classic holiday climate. Christmas doesn’t always need snow – it just needs a little greenery, good light, and some thoughtful care.

When the cold weather forces us to slow down in the garden, it's the ideal time to keep busy indoors and lend nature a helping hand. DIY bird seed ornaments are a fun winter craft and a lovely way to nurture nature in your backyard. They also make a charming feature when hanging from bare branches or evergreen boughs.

Taking time for feeding birds isn't just about helping wildlife through the leaner months; it's also about taking note of which feathered friends are visiting your garden. Many birds are just visiting, but you can encourage some varieties to make a home by adding bird houses – the best smart bird houses with cameras will even let you keep an eye on them, sending live footage right to your phone.

The great thing about making your own bird seed ornaments is that you can improvise with whatever you have to hand. Whether you use your usual Christmas cookie cutters or a silicone mold – like this cute heart-shaped design from Amazon – you can create an end product to be proud of. It's also a thoughtful way to reduce waste – especially if you're looking for creative ways to use up old seed. Bring joy to backyard birds this winter with this easy recipe.

What You Need

• Bird seed – See more details below. Start with about 2 cups.
• Fat – Plain suet (beef fat) is the classic choice as it sets firm in cool weather and holds seed well. Vegetable shortening is a good alternative.
• You'll need about ½ cup once melted.
• Silicone molds – Such as stars, hearts, and mini trees, or festive cookie cutters
• Baking sheet and parchment/wax paper
• Saucepan – or microwave-safe bowl
• Mixing bowl and spoon
• Twine/jute/cotton string – or ribbon for a prettier look
• Drinking straw or skewer – to make a hanging hole

Which Seed is Best?

Choose a seed mix tailored to common backyard birds, like this Nature Anywhere Wild Bird Seed with no fillers from Amazon.

• Black-oil sunflower seeds are ideal as they are packed with energy and loved by many species.
• White proso millet is a favorite for sparrows, juncos, doves, and other ground-feeders that will happily visit low branches and feeders.
• Cracked corn offers good winter calories, but just use a little bit so ornaments don’t crumble.
• Nyjer/thistle is great for finches, but best used as an add-in rather than the main seed because it’s tiny and can fall out if the ornament is too loose. Go easy on tiny seeds in general as they can make ornaments more fragile
• Chopped peanuts or nut pieces are high in fat and protein, but use them chopped, rather than whole, so the ornaments hold together.
• Avoid seed blends heavy on red millet, wheat, or lots of “filler” grains – they’re often tossed aside and can create waste under the tree.

How to Make Bird Seed Ornaments – Step by Step

1. Line a baking sheet with parchment or wax paper so the finished ornaments will lift cleanly.
2. Choose your seed blend. For sturdy, crowd-pleasing ornaments, aim for a mix that’s mostly black-oil sunflower plus millet, with a smaller portion of extras (cracked corn, nyjer, chopped nuts). A mostly sunflower blend tends to combine together better than very fine seeds alone.
3. In a saucepan over low heat, gently melt your suet or shortening just until liquid – it shouldn't start bubbling or spitting.
4. Pour the melted fat into your bowl of seeds and stir thoroughly. You need the consistency to be just right: it should clump when you squeeze it. If it seems too dry or crumbly, add a bit more melted fat; if it seems too loose or runny, stir in a little more seed.
5. Spoon the mixture into silicone molds and press down hard with the back of a spoon. Really firmly compact it, as this will help the ornaments to stay intact through wind and pecking.
6. While the mix is still soft, create a hole near the top of each ornament to serve as a hanging point. Push a straw, skewer, or chopstick straight through. Wiggle slightly, then remove. If your mold shape is thick, angle the hole slightly upward so the string doesn’t tear through later.
7. Place the filled molds on the baking sheet and chill in the refrigerator until the mix is firm. If they still feel soft when unmolded, give them more time – fully set ornaments should feel solid and cool to the touch.
8. Flex silicone molds gently to release the ornaments. If an edge crumbles, press it back together and chill again – once the fat re-firms, it usually holds.
9. Run twine or cotton string through the hole and knot securely. Keep loops modest so ornaments don’t blow around too much in the wind.

Using Cookie Cutters

Cookie cutters make charming ornaments – think stars, boots, or gingerbread people – but you’ll need a simple trick to keep the mix contained while it sets:

1. Line a tray with parchment, then set your cookie cutter on top.
2. Then, create a “collar” by wrapping the outside of the cutter with a strip of parchment and taping it.
3. Press the mixture in and then place a small square of parchment over the top and pack firmly so there are no airy gaps.
4. Make a hanging hole with a straw/skewer near the top.
5. Chill until very firm, then lift the cutter straight up. If it sticks, warm the outside of the metal cutter briefly with your hands to loosen it.

Where to Hang Bird Seed Ornaments

Hang your ornaments on a tree branch where birds can feel safe. Ideally, branches near shrubs, hedges, or evergreen trees offer birds some protection – but shouldn't be so close that predatory cats can ambush. They also need to retain a clear line of sight.

Hang the ornaments 5–6 feet high. If squirrels are frequent visitors to your yard, hang the ornaments a bit farther out on a branch rather than close to the trunk. If possible, they should be spaced apart to reduce conflict and gives more timid species a chance to feed.

A little winter sun is fine, but avoid spots with strong afternoon sun, especially in milder climates, as fat-based ornaments can soften. Choose a spot with some protection from heavy rain, which will break down the ornaments faster.

When to Take Them Down

As the ornaments are pecked, they’ll naturally become ragged. Once they’re crumbly, moldy-looking, or heavily soiled, it’s time to take them down. Leftover ornaments can be composted if made with plain seed and natural fats, or just discarded. If seed builds up underneath, rake it away. Old, damp seed can attract unwanted pests and isn’t good for birds. Rotating hanging spots every so often helps prevent buildup.

These ornaments are ideal to use in late fall through winter, when birds need extra calories and cooler temperatures keep the fat firm. In spring and summer, switch back to traditional feeders or seed blends designed for warm weather.

No Time for DIY? No Problem!

When Victoria Beckham shared a carousel of photos to Instagram from her London boutique, the Christmas décor instantly caught everyone’s eye. The tree wasn’t overflowing with shiny baubles, stacked with tinsel or novelty ornaments (that doesn’t really seem like Posh Spice’s thing).

Instead, it was filled with velvet bows, creating a look that felt modern, polished, and unmistakably luxurious (as is Victoria’s whole brand). Known for her minimalist, fashion-forward aesthetic since her Spice Girls days, and now as a fashion designer, Victoria made a strong case for “bowcore” as the Christmas tree trend to watch out for in 2025.

The great news is that this look is entirely accessible to everyone. You don’t need a Victoria Beckham budget to recreate this Christmas tree at home. With a well-shaped tree, a few lush ribbons, and smart placement, you can achieve this look too.

Start with a Simple, Well-Shaped Tree

The “bowcore” trend works best when the tree itself is well-shaped, which means you’ll most likely need to get an artificial one. Choose a tree with evenly spaced branches so the bows become the star of the show.

This trend works best when the tree itself has a clean, balanced shape, which can definitely be found in a real tree. If you’re going artificial, though, choose a full, realistic tree with evenly spaced branches so the bows become the star of the show.

A great option is this National Tree Company pre-lit artificial tree from Amazon,as it has a classic shape and gives you a strong base for styling.

Bonus Tip: Make sure you thoroughly fluff the branches before decorating. Spread them outward and slightly upward to create a little “pocket” where the bows will nest.

Choose Luxurious Ribbon Materials

The real secret behind the bowcore trend is texture. Velvet and satin ribbons instantly elevate a tree to a new level. Look for wide ribbon (about 2-4 inches or 5-10 cm.) so the bows feel oversized and intentional.

Great options are this red velvet wired ribbon with a snowy edge from Amazon. The wire makes it easy to tie your bows and shape them. If you want to have a little more fun with it, go for this red glitter satin ribbon from Target that says “Ho Ho Ho” on it.

Stick with one color palette, like:

• Classic black
• Champagne or ivory
• Blush
• Deep emerald
• Soft gold

How to Make Oversized, Full Bows

If you want to have bigger, dramatic bows, try this simple method:

Cut a long length of ribbon (about 2 to 3 feet)

Make two large loops and one short tail on each side

Twist the center tightly and secure it with floral wire

You can pick up some simple floral wire at Walmart for quite cheap.

Bonus Tip: Make all your bows first, lay them out, and tweak sizes before adding them to the tree.

Arrange Bows Like a Designer

Okay, we can’t all be designers, but you can take some tips from them. Rather than clustering the bows all at the tips of the branches, tuck them slightly inside the tree. This creates depth and gives a layered look, which is exactly what Victoria Beckham goes for in her display.

Work in a loose spiral pattern starting at the top of the tree and working your way down. Leave some open space so the tree doesn’t feel too crowded.

Keep Ornaments Minimal (or Skip Them Entirely)

If you want to stay true to the “bowcore” aesthetic, skip traditional ornaments completely or stick to just a handful as a few simple accents. These neutral-toned ornaments from Amazon are handblown and come in a pack of 24.

Bonus Tip: If you’re really into the bow trend, try this enormous satin bow Christmas tree topper from Target.

If you've been getting cozy on the couch and scrolling through Instagram lately, you may have spotted country music star Kane Brown in an adorable family snapshot. He was sitting in front of his Christmas tree with his wife and children, but the tree was decorated entirely in soft browns, beiges, and taupes - an entirely neutral palette.

Staying true to his grounded, Southern roots, Kane embraced the palette that felt warm, calm, and refreshingly natural. It’s a great reminder that holiday decorations don’t need to be bright red and green, or gold and glittery, to feel festive. The earthy, neutral trend isn’t just for indoor Christmas trees either.

You can easily recreate this same vibe on your porch, patio, or entryway with winter plants, natural textures, and a few thoughtful accents. Here’s how to create your own earth-toned Christmas garden inspired by the organic look.

Start With Evergreens in Natural Containers

The true backbone to any outdoor wintery display is potted evergreens. Choose small spruce, pine, or cedar trees and put them in pots wrapped in burlap, or planters with a rustic aesthetic. Terra cotta, woven baskets, or faux concrete planters give that same neutral, textured feel while still keeping it casual and unfussy.

Go for a simple option like this classic terracotta planter from Home Depot. The design is basic and uncomplicated, which pairs beautifully with a small evergreen. Elevate your pots slightly on wood risers for a more styled look.

Bonus tip: Go with matte finishes rather than glossy paint to keep the natural, minimalist look.

Add Winter-Blooming Plants in Soft Shades

To soften the greenery, mix in winter-blooming plants that match the earth-toned palette. This includes cream or blush hellebores, white or champagne cyclamen, and pale beige ornamental cabbages.

These plants look lovely in mixed containers. You can find ready-to-plant hellebores at Burpee that thrive in cooler temperatures and give a subtle, elegant color.

Use Ornamental Grasses for Texture

Nothing says “earth-toned, neutral palette” quite like ornamental grasses. To add height, try fountain grass, feather reed grass, or even preserved pampas grass for a soft look that’s very on trend.

Try this Flowerwood Pampas Grass in a pot from Lowe’s. If you plant it in a large container, tuck it behind the evergreen trees for layered depth.

Decorate With Natural Accents

Natural accents are where Kane Brown’s tree inspiration can really come to life outdoors. Rather than using plastic ornaments, forage for natural pieces throughout your garden.

• Pine cones
• Dried seed heads (like rudbeckia or echinacea)
• Cinnamon sticks
• Dried orange slices

If you don’t have any in your yard, you can buy pinecones from Amazon, and they even have strings already attached! If you don’t want to hang them on trees, try arranging them in bowls on porch tables.

Bonus tip: Lightly dust your pine cones with white craft paint for a subtle “frosted” look without overpowering the neutral theme.

Keep It Simple and Cozy

The secret to Kane Brown’s natural Christmas look is that it feels calm and personal, not overdone. Focus on layered texture, natural materials, and soft colors rather than filling every space with a plastic snow globe. A few thoughtfully chosen pots and organic accents can turn even a small porch or garden corner into a peaceful earth-toned winter escape. Sometimes the quietest colors make the biggest difference

King Charles recently gave readers of Country Life a rare peek into the evolving gardens at Sandringham, and one thing seriously stood out: the sense of quiet elegance that is woven throughout every path and his life in general. Nothing screams quiet luxury quite like the British royal family and their regal gardens.

From the Magnolia Walk (what a name!) to the sculpted topiary, Sandringham’s winter landscape shows that Christmas beauty does not require flashing lights or an inflatable snowman; it’s much subtler. Sometimes the most elegant touch is a thoughtfully designed outdoor walkway that feels festive while still being rooted in nature.

You can bring a bit of royal magic into your own garden this Christmas, and you don’t need acres and acres of land or a team of gardeners to achieve it. A simple garden path or “winter promenade” can echo the charm of Sandringham using evergreens, berries, lanterns, and subtle lighting.

Start With Evergreen Structure

As with every garden, from a small one to the Sandringham estate, the appeal comes from the “bones.” What is that exactly? The evergreens, of course. These shape the garden all season long and become especially important during the colder months when many flowers are dormant. You can steal this idea by placing small shrubs or potted topiary along your walkway if you have one, or simply on your porch.

Compact options like dwarf spruces or boxwoods stay green all winter long and instantly add form to your garden. You can place these in containers like these urn planters from Lowe’s that are durable, outdoor containers. They have a heavy appearance, but they are actually super lightweight. Planting in containers means you can rearrange them whenever you want to create a fresh layout.

Add Natural Holiday Accents

Once you have your structural elements in place, you can layer in natural touches that feel festive but not overly decorative. Try winterberry branches, holly sprigs, pinecones, or snips of cedar tucked into the soil of your potted plants. This gives the Sandringham look, which blends cultivated and wild textures.

If you aren’t able to forage in your own garden for things like berries or pinecones, you can buy this 4-piece pinecone and berry Christmas set from Target. You can also try this 4-piece berry set.

Create a Lit Pathway That Feels Magical, Not Flashy

Sandringham’s real Christmas magic comes alive when warm light hits the branches, walkways, and architectural details. Get a similar outdoor lighting effect in your own garden by lining your path with lanterns or lightly glowing LED fairy lights.

These lanterns from Amazon are solar-powered, outdoor-friendly, and can be hung or set on the ground along a path. They're perfect for creating that romantic, festive evening elegance with zero upkeep.

If you prefer string lights, these warm-white fairy lights from Amazon can be strung along a fence, arbor, or small trees. They complement evergreens without overpowering them.

Make a Magnolia Walk of Your Own

You may not have a space as large as Sandringham (not many people do), but you can recreate King Charles’s Magnolia Walk and give off the sense of anticipation that evokes. The trick is to draw the eye forward.

Try outlining your path with two repeating elements; this could be matching potted shrubs, lanterns, or even clusters of winterberry stems. Repetition creates rhythm and gives your garden path a natural, “designed” feeling, as if you had a team of people working with you.

For a grounded look, tuck a few bags of mulch or pine bark around the base of your plants. Try this hardwood mulch from Lowe’s that keeps soil insulated and adds a clean finish.

Introduce Royal Warmth at the Entrance

Any good promenade or garden path ends at a destination point, especially if you’re going for a festive, seasonal feel. This could be a front door, a gate, a garden bench, or even a small seating nook with some winter blankets. A small bench with some potted evergreens and soft lighting could give the vibe of a Christmas card.

End your promenade at a destination point: the front door, a gate, a garden bench, or even a small seating nook with winter blankets. A bench flanked by potted evergreens and soft lighting can feel like a scene pulled straight from a holiday movie.

A Garden Fit for the Season

King Charles’s Sandringham gardens are not about extravagance or royalty. They’re about balance, calm, and honoring nature. By leaning into evergreens, berries, and soft lighting, you can create your own Christmas-themed garden that results in a lovely walkway to welcome your family and guests throughout the season.

Of all the tools in my shed, my hand pruners work the hardest. After a long season of pruning, deadheading, and shaping, culminating in an epic fall cleanup operation, they are ready for some well-earned TLC. At this stage, they are gummy with sap and blackened with grime; the blades are dull and stick together, and have lost that smooth spring-back. All this buildup affects their performance and makes pruning harder than it has to be.

I’ll admit I’m not the most diligent when it comes to tool maintenance, but I do relish the winter ritual of cleaning and sharpening my pruners. I’ve tried every method – from specialty stones to the wine cork hack – and over the years, I have settled on a consistent routine that needs just a few basic supplies.

In case you're wondering, my go-to pruners are the Felco 2 pruning shears, available on Amazon, though several of my colleagues swear by these budget-friendly Fiskars bypass pruners. If you put in a bit of effort to keep them sharp, they’ll serve you well for many years to come. Here’s how to give pruners a winter spruce-up – and this method also works wonders on garden knives, loppers, and snips.

Step 1: Clean Your Pruners

Start by cleaning your pruners to get rid of any grime and rust. I use two methods for this – outlined below – depending on the level of dirt.

Note that it is not necessary to disassemble pruners for a light clean, but for a deep clean or restoration, it can be beneficial. For higher quality brands, disassembly is usually easy and intended, whereas cheaper pruners might not reassemble smoothly. If you want to take that extra step, read the manufacturer’s instructions before proceeding. The advice below assumes assembled pruners but applies either way:

1. Open the pruners fully so that as much of the blade and pivot area is as exposed as possible.
2. Brush off any loose dirt with a wire brush or toothbrush and apply a light penetrating oil, such as WD-40, available on Amazon, on both sides of the blades and the pivot area. Let it sit for a few minutes.
3. For light grime, a nylon pot scourer works well. For heavier buildup, switch to fine steel wool, like this (wear gloves when using steel wool).
4. Open and close the pruners repeatedly while you work the steel wool around the pivot – this helps loosen hidden rust and compacted debris.
5. Wipe away the dirty oil with a rag.

If your pruners are really neglected or heavily stained, Bar Keepers Friend (I like the powder cleanser for this job) can give them a deeper, restoration-level clean. It’s mildly abrasive and contains oxalic acid, which helps lift rust and discoloration without being too harsh. Here’s how to use it on pruners:

1. Slightly dampen the blades with water. Sprinkle a small amount of powder onto the metal (or onto a damp cloth or sponge).
2. Rub gently over the blades and metal parts, focusing on rusted or stained areas.
3. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and dry completely before moving on to sharpening and oiling.

Pro Tip: My favorite discovery this year has been using a wine cork to clean pruners. It makes a surprisingly brilliant firm “sponge” or applicator for cleaning and oiling blades. Cork is firm but slightly cushioned and rounded, so it conforms to the curve of the blade. It has enough grip to hold onto oil and cleanser and provides light abrasion. It’s also great for using during the sharpening stage (more below)

Step 2: Sharpen the Blades

For quick on-the-go sharpening, a multi-functional tungsten carbide sharpening tool, like the Spear & Jackson Razorsharp 6-in-1 Sharpener on Amazon, is great for keeping pruners and other tools in tip-top condition – just drag the blades along the groove. However, for a more involved sharpening session, I recommend the DMT DiaSharp Diamond Mini-Hone Sharpening Kit, which contains coarse, fine, and extra-fine grit sharpeners.

Start with the coarsest grit if the blade is very dull, matching the existing edge angle. Sharpen in smooth, single-direction strokes, never sawing back and forth. Progress to finer grits for a polished edge.

To remove any burs and give your pruners a final polish, rub a wine cork back and forth along both the flat and edge of the blade. Wipe with a dry cloth to remove any remaining dust or grit.

Step 3: Finish with Protective Oil

After cleaning and polishing, it’s important to finish with a light coat of protective oil on the blades and pivot to prevent rust. 3-IN-ONE Multi-Purpose Oil on Amazon works well, or camellia oil, a traditional Japanese blade oil.

Give the pruners a good coverage and apply some oil into the pivot point. pen and close the pruners several times to work it in, then wipe away excess. Store your tools somewhere dry, and they’ll be ready to glide through early-spring pruning.

In 2022, Reese Witherspoon revealed her rainbow-themed Christmas tree, proving, once again, that Christmas decor doesn’t have to follow the traditional red and green rulebook. Her tree was bright and fun; the kind of tree that lights you up with a smile the second you see it.

While most people think of this as an indoor trend or something you can only do on your Christmas tree, think again! You can bring the same vibrant, colorful holiday decor outside to your garden, even in winter when everything appears to be in black and white.

Color instantly lifts your mood, and winter-hardy plants can offer plenty of natural hues to work with. Add a few colorful ribbons or ornaments, and suddenly your porch pots or garden beds echo the playful look of Reese’s tree, but in a more organic, outdoorsy way.

Start With Winter-Hardy Color

Winter itself can be dull, especially in color, but there are several cold-tolerant plants that reliably bring the richness of the rainbow, even in freezing weather.

Pansies and violas bloom throughout winter in many regions, giving your garden purples, yellows, and blues that instantly have you dreaming of spring. Ornamental cabbage and flowering kale can add shades of pink, white, and deep violet. Red twig dogwood has bright red stems, and evergreen shrubs contribute the green we all so deeply miss once Christmas is over.

If you’re in need of containers, look for sturdy, weather-safe options that won’t crack during the freeze-thaw cycle. Lowe’s has this heavy-duty resin planter that holds up in extremely high or extremely low temperatures. Group together containers, each in a different color family, to set the foundation for a rainbow colored display.

Build Color in Layers

Just like Reese Witherspoon layered ornaments on her tree, layering plants with the thriller filler spiller technique adds depth. Start from the ground up: line the front edge of a walkway or garden bed with small bright flowers like violas in yellows and purples. Behind these, tuck in mid-height flowers like red cyclamen, orange winter berries, or purple cabbage. For height, add evergreens, colorful twigs, or potted shrubs.

Group the colors in soft gradients to create a cohesive flow, rather than chaotic. Gradient means letting oranges blend into reds, reds fade into pinks, and purples transition to blues. This soft shift mirrors Reese’s Christmas tree while still feeling natural in a garden.

Of course, you can always add quick pops of color here and there as well. Target has outdoor-friendly artificial berries that you can tuck directly into soil or container arrangements.

Add Rainbow Accents Without Overdoing It

Ornaments and ribbons are an easy way to echo the rainbow theme outdoors, and remember, a little goes a long way. Pick colors that complement your plants rather than overwhelm them. Try soft oranges, and cheerful reds, or warm yellows and icy blues.

Amazon has several weatherproof ribbon sets in a variety of colors. Tie them around planter rims, lantern handles, or small evergreen shrubs to create subtle nods to Reese’s rainbow colored Christmas tree. If you prefer to go even bolder, hang a few shatterproof ornaments on the branches of winter-safe shrubs.

Another simple touch? Colored outdoor lights in various hues. These solar-powered lanterns from Amazon would be perfect.

Create a Whimsical Focal Point

A rainbow-inspired garden needs a centerpiece; something that captures the vibrancy of the theme. For small spaces, a potted evergreen decorated with multicolored bows or ribbon would fit perfectly.

If you have a larger yard, try creating a “color lane” along a garden path by lining it with plants in different colors, starting with red at the entrance and finishing with purple or blue near the back.

Reese Witherspoon’s rainbow Christmas tree is a reminder that Christmas decorating doesn’t have to stay indoors or follow a classic, traditional palette.

That sad, shriveled, brown Christmas cactus on the windowsill isn’t necessarily headed for the compost bin. These plants are tough little survivors – many that look completely dead bounce back strong and bloom heavily the following year. The secret is catching the problem early and applying the right fix without delay.

Learning how to revive a Christmas cactus – even one that appears totally gone – boils down to two dead-simple tests and a handful of targeted changes. Most supposedly dead plants are actually suffering from one of three common Christmas cactus problems: root rot, dehydration, or environmental stress. Fix the cause, and the plant almost always returns.

Once stabilized, Christmas cacti are practically bulletproof. Christmas cactus care boils down to the exact same habits that just saved its life – bright indirect light, restrained watering, and cool nights. Nail those three things, and it will cascade over the pot with ridiculous numbers of hot-pink blooms every year like clockwork.

Is It Really Dead?

Before investing time and energy into reviving your Christmas cactus, first check to make sure it's recoverable by performing these two tests:

The Flex Test

Take a stem segment near the soil line and gently bend it between your thumb and finger. If the segment flexes instead of snapping cleanly, living tissue remains inside. Even segments that feel soft and limp may contain enough life to recover. Segments that crack like dry kindling are finished, but the base often stays pliable longer than the tips. Check multiple places – the lowest sections frequently stay viable when everything higher up looks hopeless. Recovery from here is absolutely possible and often happens faster than most people expect.

The Root Test

Tip the pot sideways and slide the root ball out – it usually comes free easily when trouble is serious. Healthy roots look white or creamy-tan and feel firm, almost elastic, when pinched. Black, mushy roots that smell like a swamp confirm rot has taken hold. Yet even severe rot won't necessarily kill the entire plant; as long as a few white roots cling to at least one plump segment, new growth can emerge. Dusty, bone-dry soil that weighs almost nothing points to the opposite problem – desperate thirst.

Fixing the Cause

If you suspect your plant is still alive, then move on to diagnosing and fixing the root cause. While most problems are cultural, sometimes Christmas cactus diseases are the culprit, so if adjusting care doesn't fix the problem, it's worth considering a disease.

1. Watering Issues

Improper watering is the most likely cause of a declining Christmas cactus. Are leaf segments wrinkled or shriveled? Then it isn't getting enough water. Or, are segments limp and mushy? If so, overwatering has likely led to root rot.

Overwatering

Christmas cactus root rot turns segments dull gray-green, limp, and squishy at the base. The pot stays heavy for weeks and often smells faintly of pond water. This is the fastest way Christmas cacti meet their end indoors.

Act immediately. Unpot the plant, rinse the roots gently under lukewarm tap water, and cut away every trace of black or slimy tissue with sharp, sterilized pruners. Allow the cut roots to air-dry on the counter for 12-24 hours until the cut surfaces are slightly callused.

Repot your Christmas cactus into fresh, gritty potting mix with perlite – this fast-draining Christmas cactus potting soil from Amazon works well. Keep the soil slightly dry at first, then water only when the top inch feels dry to the touch. Bright pink or green tips at the segment ends in four to six weeks indicate the rescue worked.

Underwatering

Chronic underwatering makes segments shrink into thin, puckered, raisin-like tubes. The pot becomes extremely light – lift it, and it practically floats. Reviving a wilted Christmas cactus often just means proper rehydration.

Bottom-water right away: set the entire pot in a sink or bucket of room-temperature water for 30–45 minutes so moisture wicks upward evenly. Drain thoroughly – never let the pot sit in water afterward. The segments begin plumping within a few days and look glossy again within a couple of weeks once consistent moisture returns. Using a simple moisture meter removes all guesswork forever – this 4-in-1 probe from Amazon pays for itself the first season.

2. Light Levels

Christmas cactus light requirements are a careful balance. Too much direct sun scorches segments brown and flat; too little light forces long, weak, pale growth that never blooms. Recovery demands the sweet spot in between.

Place the plant in bright indirect light – an east-facing window is perfect, or two to three feet back from a south or west window. Sheer curtains help diffuse harsh afternoon rays. During short winter days, adding a small LED grow light like this one from Amazon for 8–12 hours daily can encourage stronger, fuller new growth, often appearing within two to three weeks of correct lighting.

3. Correct Temperature

Temperature swings are brutal on Christmas cacti. Anything below about 40°F (4°C) can cause segment drop; sudden cold drafts can trigger it even at higher temperatures. Anything above the mid-80s°F (around 29°C) may slow growth if combined with intense sun or low humidity. Recovery happens fastest in steady conditions.

Keep the plant between 60–75°F (15–24°C) during the day while it heals. Avoid cold drafts, heat vents, or placement near exterior doors. Once new growth is obvious and segments firm up again, cooler nights of around 50–55°F (10–13°C) trigger flower buds for the famous holiday display. Plants given cool nights in early fall often bloom heavily in December and January.

In November, Martha Stewart shared a blog post about one of her favorite winter garden traditions: Protecting her beloved dahlia tubers without digging them up. Dahlias may appear like they’re fragile and can rip easily, but with the right care in winter, they can survive the frigid cold and bloom back to life come spring.

Martha’s method is actually quite simple and surprisingly doesn’t require much effort from the gardener. It’s perfect for the person who wants beautiful dahlias without the yearly ritual of having to lift and store the tubers.

Why Leave Dahlias in the Ground?

Dahlias are tender perennials, which means they can’t naturally handle freezing cold temperatures. Most gardeners dig up and store dahlia bulbs in their basement or garage in order to replant them when warm temperatures finally return.

Leaving dahlias in the ground allows the root system to mature undisturbed and saves the gardener time and guesswork in spring.

1. Start With a Thick Mulch Blanket

Start the winter process by cutting blackened foliage down to a few inches above the soil. After than is the most important step: insulation.

To do this, create a deep pile of mulch, around 8 to 12 inches (20-30 cm) high, over each clump of tubers. This could consist of shredded leaves, pine needle mulch, or straw. This keeps the soil temperature stable and protects tubers from the dreaded freeze-thaw cycle. Try this Premium Brown Pine Bark Mulch from Lowe’s. It offers excellent insulation and settles naturally over the winter months.

2. Add a Weather Shield

If winters where you live involve heavy rain, ice, or strong wind, adding a breathable cover will help. This plant cover from Amazon is for plants low to the ground, protecting them from sleet, snow, frost, and wind. It’s great for an easy, hands-off approach and works well if you live in a very cold climate. You can also buy a roll of burlap fabric from Amazon. Burlap is a favorite as it keeps the mulch in place while still allowing moisture and air to move through.

Bonus tip: If you use burlap, you can tuck a few evergreen branches leftover from the Christmas on top for a bit of extra protection and a cute holiday aesthetic.

3. Don’t Forget About Drainage

Cold can be challenging, but soggy soil is a whole other beast. Dahlia tubers rot easily when wet, especially in compacted soil, and even if they’re insulated. If your garden tends to stay damp in winter (say if you live in an area that gets a lot of rain), consider slightly raising your planting area or mixing in a coarse compost to help improve drainage.

This garden soil from Lowe’s works especially well as it loosens dense soil and helps drain water away from the tubers.

4. Mark Your Clumps for Spring

Your work isn’t completely done! Once you’ve tucked in your dahlias for the winter, place a marker next to each dahlia mound. Winter has a way of making you forget what is planted where, especially when it gets covered by snow and leaves.

What to Expect When the Weather Warms

Once spring arrives, we’re all so excited that it’s tempting to uncover everything right away. Resist this temptation! Pull back mulch gradually to protect the tender new growth, especially as you can still have unexpected frost, even in spring.

The tubers will sprout when the soil warms up, and if winter still causes some partial dieback, dahlias usually rebound quickly once they get going.

A Gentle, Sustainable Way to Garden

Martha Stewart’s hack for winter dahlia defense is a reminder that gardening doesn’t need to be hard labor. With a thick layer of mulch, breathable protection, and a little patience, you can keep your dahlias safe throughout the winter.

Wondering how to keep potted plants from freezing outside? It all comes down to blocking wind, trapping heat, and shielding roots from temperature drops. Group pots strategically or wrap them up – these moves make a massive difference. Plants frozen in pots recover if damage stays minimal, but prevention beats the hassle every time.

Freeze proof plant containers start with smart choices from the beginning, but retrofits work too. For all-around container gardening tips that set pots up for success year-round, basic habits like proper drainage and soil mix pay off big. Right now the focus stays on surviving those freezing nights without losing a single leaf.

1. The Huddle

Cluster containers in a tight group against a south-facing wall or fence. This setup creates a mini microclimate where pots share can warmth and block wind from all sides. The collective mass holds soil temperature steady much longer than isolated pots ever could. Toss on a loose mulch layer over the tops for extra insulation without smothering them. It takes a bit to get everything arranged just right, but the payoff hits when overnight lows drop and the plants come through unscathed.

Put the more sensitive plants in the center to shelter them with hardier plants around the edges. Water thoroughly before the freeze hits – moist soil freezes slower than dry. That extra moisture acts like a buffer, keeping roots from turning to ice. Come spring, separate the group gradually as temperatures rise. The plants emerge stronger, with roots intact and ready to grow. This method works especially well for mixed containers, where hardy evergreens shield more tender herbs or flowers from the worst gusts.

2. The Bubble Wrap Jacket

Wrap bubble wrap around each pot a few layers thick, securing with twine or tape. The air pockets trap heat and create a barrier against cold air seeping in. Cover the wrap with burlap or plastic sheeting to hold it in place during wind gusts. This jacket slows roots from freezing, even when air temps drop hard.

Focus on the pot sides and base – that's where cold hits hardest. Leave the top open for air flow and occasional watering. A roll of bubble wrap like this from Amazon handles multiple pots easily. Peel it off in spring; the material stores flat for next year. For clay pots that crack easily, add an inner layer of foam sheeting like this from Amazon inside the bubble wrap to cushion against expansion as an extra layer, helping to prevent splits during thaws.

3. The Top Mulch Blanket

Pile organic mulch like straw, leaves, or pine needles over the soil surface to 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) deep. This blanket locks in ground heat and prevents rapid temperature swings that crack pots or kill roots. Mulch breaks down slowly, adding nutrients as it goes. It feels fluffy underfoot but packs serious protection. Choose materials that drain well to avoid sogginess in wet winters. Lay the mulch right up to the stems without burying them.

Refresh if wind scatters it during storms. Shredded mulch like this from Home Depot clings better in exposed spots. Pull it back in early spring to let soil warm and avoid rot from excess moisture. This layer also suppresses weeds that might compete come warmer days, giving plants a head start.

4. The Vertical Wall Microclimate

Lean pots against a house wall or garage on the south or east side. Buildings radiate stored heat overnight, raising air temps by several degrees in that pocket. This spot dodges north winds and catches morning sun to thaw any frost quickly. The wall acts like a natural heater for vulnerable containers. It sorts out the chill without much extra work on your part.

Stack pots if space is tight, with hardier ones on bottom. Cover the group loosely with frost cloth on the coldest nights. Breathable fabric like this from Amazon lets air circulate while trapping warmth. Shift everything back to regular spots once hard freezes pass. Check for pests hiding in the crevices during winter; a quick inspection keeps things clean.

5. The Pot-in-a-Pot

Drop the entire container into a larger pot or hole in the ground, backfilling with soil or mulch. This buries roots below the frost line, mimicking in-ground planting. The outer layer insulates like a cozy nest against soil heaving and cold penetration. It works wonders for perennials that hate exposed winters. The setup feels solid once filled, holding steady through storms.

Dig holes slightly wider than the pots for easy removal later. Mulch over the top for double protection. Line the outer pot with insulation if reusing next year. The setup stabilizes temperatures and cuts watering needs until spring arrives. For deeper freezes, add leaves in the backfill for even more cushion, ensuring roots stay thawed and viable.

When Selena Gomez shared a glimpse of a cozy, greenery-draped dinner with now-husband Benny Blanco, the setting instantly caught our attention. It perfectly embodied the idea that creating a warm, nature-infused holiday atmosphere doesn’t require a huge space or over-the-top decorations – just thoughtful touches and a bit of natural holiday decor.

In an Instagram Story (via People), Gomez and Blanco were seen embracing beneath a simple pergola layered with hanging greenery and soft lighting. The look was inviting, festive, and achievable – ideal inspiration not just for the holidays, but for any special gathering.

With a few structural elements, trailing evergreen vines, and some subtle seasonal accents, you can recreate a similar intimate trellis in your garden. Love the style but not sure where to start? Here’s a step-by-step guide to building your own festive outdoor feature inspired by Selena’s serene holiday moment.

1. Choose (or Build) the Right Structure

The foundation of any pergola or garden trellis is, of course, a solid overhead frame that you can use for a hanging greenery canopy. The structure should be solid enough that it can hold and support climbing plants, trailing vines, and, for Christmas, some string lights. Basically, it’s the “skeleton” that holds everything in place, allowing the greenery and light to shape your space.

If you live in an area that gets quite a bit of sun, this Hupicker Cedar Wood Pergola from Walmart is a basic structure, but it comes with an adjustable roof. You can also try the Backyard Discovery Cedar Wood Outdoor Patio Pergola Swing if you prefer a place to sit.

If you’re working with a smaller space, a wall or fence-mounted trellis panel can give you a similar look. Try the Vita Classic White Vinyl Fence Garden Trellis from Lowe’s.

2. Dress It with Vines or Hanging Greenery

Now it’s time to add your greenery. To recreate that soft, cocooning canopy seen in Selena Gomez’s photo, opt for plants that climb or drape naturally.

• English ivy or Boston ivy offer just the right aesthetic, but can be invasive in the soil, so keep them contained in pots or hanging planters.
• Climbing hydrangea is a beautifully textured, slow-to-moderate grower with large leaves and a graceful, draping habit once established. Ideal for a soft, romantic overhead canopy.
• Star jasmine is an evergreen climber with glossy leaves and a gentle trailing effect. It offers year-round structure and subtle fragrance in warmer months.
• Trumpet honeysuckle is a non-invasive honeysuckle species that provides long, looping stems and vibrant foliage.
• Clematis virginiana is known for lightweight, airy, viney growth that easily weaves through pergola beams without becoming dominant.
• Trailing ferns or hanging pots with "spiller plants": Boston ferns, maidenhair ferns, or cascading plants add soft drape from above and help fill the canopy.

Once these climbers and cascading plants begin to take shape, you’ll capture that bountiful, natural atmosphere.

3. Soft Lighting for That Golden-Hour Glow

One of the things that makes Selena’s photo feel so intimate and warm (besides Benny Blanco wrapping his arms around her) is the soft, flattering light. As the day fades into night, having string lights through the vines will add some holiday magic to your pergola.

Go for warm white LED lights draped loosely through the vines, allowing the plants to cast natural shadows. Lighting rooted in the greens gives the space depth and enchantment, which is ideal for cozy family Christmas dinners, holiday parties, and relaxed evenings.

These JMEXSUSS LED Warm White Christmas Lights from Amazon are perfect as they are a beautiful color and come with a handy wheel, keeping them from getting tangled. If you’re more into lanterns, these ArchiHome Hanging Lanterns from Walmart are just right, and they come with a hook.

4. Layer in Greenery & Seasonal Touches

You don’t have to stick to only overhead vines. Ground-level plants and potted evergreens around the base of the pergola give some fullness to the space and add visual balance.

• Small potted evergreens
• Seasonal planters with winter-appropriate plants like heather, cyclamen, and winter jasmine
• A layer of mulch or decorative stone to ground the space

Combining hanging ivy or other evergreens with layered plants at the base will turn your space into a secluded, inviting corner of your garden, making it a hidden spot for cold-weather comfort.

5. Maintain for Lasting Beauty

Once you have your Selena Gomez-inspired pergola, your work is not done! You have to do a few things to maintain the lush, lived-in look:

• Water vines and hanging plants regularly, especially if the cold tends to dry them out
• Always prune by gently guiding your vines along beams or your trellis with soft ties
• Check your structure every so often to make sure it’s properly supporting your plants and decorations safely. Nobody wants to be at a holiday party, enjoying a drink, when a trellis suddenly comes crashing down on them

Selena Gomez’s holiday trellis photo shows how a minimal structure with some natural greens and soft lighting can create a warm, cozy Christmas sanctuary right in your own garden.

Did you know that your houseplants need to be cleaned? This is especially true in winter, when dust tends to collect more thickly on leaves, blocking sunlight, transpiration, and other important processes. Knowing how to shine houseplant leaves keeps plants healthier and more attractive.

For your beloved houseplants, it’s best to avoid commercial cleaning products that promote shiny leaves. Instead, use my tried and tested homemade leaf shine spray from simple, safe ingredients.

Homemade Natural Leaf Shine Spray

You’ll find commercial leaf cleaning products on the shelves of your local garden center, but they often contain harmful ingredients. They might shine up your plants’ leaves, but they can also cause issues. Instead of relying on these store-bought products, use this simple and easy recipe to wipe down houseplant leaves in winter.

Combine the following ingredients in a spray bottle like this one from Amazon. Store it with your other cleaning or plant products:

• 1 cup of distilled water
• 1 teaspoon of mild liquid soap (castile soap is ideal)
• 1 teaspoon of coconut oil for a little extra shine (optional)
• A few drops of neem oil to prevent winter pests (optional)

The only things you really need to dust and clean leaves are water and mild soap. However, that little bit of natural coconut oil adds extra shine to leaves while neem oil helps you get ahead of any potential pests.

Get the Ingredients

Why Cleaning Leaves Matters More in Winter

It’s important to keep plant leaves clean at any time of year. Just as it settles on your bookshelves and other surfaces, dust settles on plants. There are several reasons this can be an issue for houseplants:

• Dust on the surfaces of leaves blocks sunlight, impeding the plant’s ability to absorb light and engage in photosynthesis.
• Dust also blocks stomata, the tiny holes on leaves that plants use for transpiration and the exchange of water and air.
• Dust on leaves creates a favorable environment for pests
• Unlike outdoor plants, your indoor plants will not be naturally cleaned by rain and wind. They need a little extra help.
• Dust also doesn’t look nice on plants. Clean off the dust to make your plants look more attractive.

You might be able to get away with not cleaning leaves in summer, but in winter, it’s absolutely essential. Heating systems running in winter kick up more dust and spread it around the house.

Light levels at the windows are lower in winter, so plants need more opportunities to engage in photosynthesis with clean leaves. Finally, pests can be a bigger issue in winter. Cleaning leaves regularly helps prevent or manage pests.

How to Use My Indoor Plant Leaf Shine Spray – And How Often

Using the spray is easy. Simply spray it onto the entire plant and use a soft cloth to wipe down the leaves. The spray will make it easier to remove the dust than if you attempted to dry dust the leaves. The little bit of oil will remain on the leaves, producing an attractive shine without clogging the stomata or causing harm.

Keep in mind that the wiping step is extra work but necessary. Simply spraying the leaves helps, but doesn’t remove most of the dust. Avoid using the spray on plants with fuzzy leaves, like African Violet. For these plants, dry dust with a soft brush.

So, how often should you do this cleaning chore? That depends on the levels of dust in your home and how frequently plant leaves get dirty and dusty. Check your plants’ leaves regularly by rubbing them between your fingers. If you can feel dust and grit, it might be time for a cleaning. If the dust is light and you can easily blow it off, you can probably wait a little longer.

Dusting and shining plant leaves indoors in winter will help keep your favorite houseplants healthy and attractive all season long. It’s an extra care step that makes a big difference.

As a crafter, I love making personalized gifts for friends and family – but never more than when I get to combine my passion for gardening. A few years ago, I started making seed bombs (or seed balls, as they're also known). Not only are they a fun way to put something good into the world, but they're inexpensive, easy to make, and an ideal project for children and beginners.

Seed bombs are small balls made of clay, compost (or another growing medium like coir), and suitable seeds. They are scattered or planted where you want the flowers to grow. The clay serves to protect the seeds from birds and insects, and eventually will melt away, allowing the seeds to germinate in the soil.

At first, I used standard wildflower mixes, but eventually, I had the idea of making birth flower seed bombs to add an extra personal touch. Now, if you’re familiar with common birth flowers, you may already know that some traditional varieties (like bulbs or shrubs) don’t grow easily from seed. But I wasn’t going to let a minor challenge like that stop me! So, I gathered a complete list of alternative birth flower options that look and feel right for each month. Follow my easy step-by-step to make your own.

Seed Bomb Birth Flowers

While it's technically possible to make seed bombs for daffodils (March) and roses (June), the success rate would be lower, and they can take years to flower. So, with a bit of research, I created a list that includes alternatives for those trickier months.

While you can use the birth flower on its own, it's nice to mix in other flower varieties to get the best out of your seed bombs and extend the flowering season. Just make sure to use the birth flower as the star attraction.

What You'll Need

This recipe makes 25-35 seed bombs.

• Clay powder – Around 8oz (225g). I used red Moroccan clay – specifically this mGanna clay from Amazon – because I love the rich look it gives. However, Fuller's Earth and pottery clay powder (not premade) are cheaper and also work well.
• Compost or coir – You only need a few tablespoons. I used this organic coco coir brick from Amazon. Otherwise, use regular potting compost – but not soil.
• Seeds – You'll need a pack of birth flower seeds, aiming for around 4-6 seeds per ball. It's nice to mix in other blooms with your hero flower – I mixed cosmos and zinnias to make these ones. This Burpee wildflower seeds cutting mix would make a lovely addition.
• Bags or fabric – For wrapping and presenting your seed bombs.
• Mixing bowl
• Water

Seed Bomb Step-by-Step

1. Prepare your coir (or compost)
   If using coir, break off a small piece and hydrate with a little warm water for a few minutes. If using compost, just keep it to one side until you have your clay ready.

2. Mix dry ingredients
   In a bowl, combine your clay powder with the coir or compost. Aim for around 3 parts clay to one part compost – though you don't have to be too precise. Add your seeds and mix well.

3. Add water slowly
   You only need 2-4 tablespoons of water, so add one at a time and mix well after each addition. The desired texture is like crumbly dough that holds together in a ball when squeezed. You don't want it to be muddy or runny.

4. Roll into balls
   Time for the fun part! Take a small amount of the mixture and roll into a ball the size of a marble – maximum 1 inch (2.5cm) diameter. Try not to go too big, or they'll produce big seedling clumps.

5. Dry the seed bombs
   Place them on a tray or parchment paper, and let them dry out for 24 to 48 hours. Mine took about 24 hours. Once dry, they should feel hard on the outside, but still slightly gritty.

6. Wrap them up
   Use a breathable material, such as paper or fabric, to wrap and present them in. I cut up some muslin fabric and added a small ribbon, but these Hopttreely sheer organza bags on Amazon would add a lovely finishing touch.

Sowing Seed Bombs

Ensure you tell your recipient the ideal time to scatter their seed bombs (usually fall or spring). They respond well to being sown just before a rain shower. Choose an open, sunny spot – empty patches or the edges of beds work well. Either scatter them then gently, or space them out naturally – a handful per square yard.

Seed bombs should sit on the earth, so resist the urge to push them into the soil. If there is no rain, then give them a light watering to get them started.

Annual flowers should flower that year, while perennials will start to grow but may not flower until the following year.

Frost nips the air and your dahlias droop. The common understanding is that you need to dig up your tender bulbs before the ground freezes. Clean them off, let them dry a spell, then pack them away in a cool spot. Come spring, they burst back with even more flowers. It’s worth the fuss for that extra color punch.

...Or is it? Does the thought of digging in the cold fall soil make you shiver? Does planting bulbs all over again in spring set your teeth on edge? Do you really have to go through all that fuss just to keep your favorites? The answer is: not always.

1. Ground Insulation

This is also known as the "can't I just leave them?" method. Or, in some cases, the "I forgot about my bulbs and they came back anyway!" method.

In certain zones just barely skirting the frost line, you can often get away with leaving your bulbs right where they are. This works best for cannas and certain hardy varieties of gladiolus, especially if you're in USDA zone 7 or higher and only experience brief, light freezes.

1. Wait for the first frost – this will kill the foliage and signal to the bulb that it's time to go dormant.
2. Trim the dead foliage back to about 6 inches (15 cm) above the ground.
3. Wait until the ground just starts to freeze, then apply a very thick layer (8-12 inches or 20-30 cm) of straw, shredded bark, or wood chips. This should keep the soil temperature more stable.
4. Leave your bulbs alone until spring, then pull back the mulch and see what comes up.

While this is the easiest method, it's far from the most reliable. If you get a deep, prolonged freeze, your bulbs aren't likely to make it, so you shouldn't count on this for your prized specimens. But if you tend to have mild winters, or if your bulbs are in a warmer microclimate, it's worth a try.

2. The Pot-and-Forget Method

If your bulb is already planted in a container, why dig it at all? Just bring the soil with it! This method eliminates the mess of shaking off dirt and the risk of damaging the bulbs with a fork. It works best for plants that need a slightly warmer dormancy (like begonias, caladiums, or smaller dahlias), or those with roots that are easily disturbed.

1. After the first frost, let the foliage die back naturally.
2. Trim the dead foliage, leaving 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) above the soil line.
3. Stop watering – this encourages the bulb to go fully dormant and keeps the soil from getting heavy and waterlogged.
4. Move the entire pot – soil and all – into a cool, dark garage or basement. The ideal temperature is 40-50 F (4-10 C). Keep it far from heating vents and spots that fall below freezing.
5. Leave it alone! Resist the urge to water your bulbs – they're happy as they are.
6. In late winter, move the pot into a slightly warmer, brighter area, and start regularly watering. New growth should start to appear.
7. After the last frost of the spring, move your pot back outside.

Think of this method as a half-measure. While you're storing your bulbs indoors, you get to skip the whole ordeal of digging, curing, and replanting. The only drawback is that your plants have to live in containers, which increases the need for watering and can inhibit growth. It's up to you which is more of a hassle.

3. The Lift-and-Store Method: The Best Bloom Guarantee

This is the traditional, most foolproof method. While it's more involved, it’s the guaranteed way to save specific, prize-winning varieties and gives you the chance to divide and multiply the ones you love. Some heirlooms aren’t in stores anymore. Winter storage for tender bulbs lets you lock in that unique shade or shape. Bulbs toughen up too, resisting bugs better next round.

How to Lift and Store Bulbs

1. Digging and Curing

Use a garden fork like this one from Amazon to slide through the soil and under the bulb. Wiggle it loose, and pull up the entire clump. If the soil is really caked on, you can hose the bulbs off. Avoid soaking them too much, though, because excess water invites rot later on.

To cure the bulbs, spread them single layer on racks or screens in a warm, airy spot, around 70-80 F (21-27 C). Cannas will dry out in 1-3 days, while gladiolus bulbs may take up to three weeks. Once the bulbs feel papery and light, they're ready to move on.

2. Trimming and Inspection

Cut away almost all the foliage. You should leave 2-4 inches (5-10 cm) on dahlias, but you can go shorter on others. Inspect each bulb closely under good light; tiny cuts or bruises can worsen in storage. Look close for damage. Healthy bulbs should feel firm. If a bulb has soft spots you can cut them out or just toss the bulb. Dust with fungicide powder like this from Amazon if you spot issues.

Sort your bulbs by type, since storage needs vary slightly. Label varieties clearly to avoid mix-ups in the spring.

3. Long-Term Storage Requirements

You can place your bulbs in a bin like this one from Amazon, though a cardboard box or crate works as well. Apply 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) of vermiculite between layers to keep moisture steady. Make sure there are air holes to keep moisture from building up.

Store your bulbs in a cool garage or basement. Most bulbs are happy in temperatures between 40 and 50 F (4-10 C). Glads like it chillier, around 35 F (2 C). Begonias prefer the warmer end, near 50 F (10 C) to avoid chilling injury.

Check on the bulbs once a month. If they feel shriveled, mist them lightly – just a spritz to plump them back. Rot shows as squishy blackness – these bulbs need to be pulled and discarded immediately, to keep the rot from spreading.

When temperatures rise again, plant them back outside.

As temperatures dip, your greenhouse starts losing warmth fast. Grab some supplies, seal those gaps, toss in thermal mass like water jugs, and your plants can hunker down cozy. This saves on heating bills too, stretching that growing season without the extra hassle.

Figuring out how to insulate a greenhouse kicks off with spotting weak spots where cold sneaks in. Drafts around doors and thin glazing that let heat slip away – these are things you need to tackle before frost bites hard. Knowing some basics will keep your setup snug. Did you know that bubble wrap clings easily to frames, trapping pockets of air like a quilt over windows?

One huge part of successful greenhouse gardening is insulating a greenhouse for winter, which turns that glass box into a reliable haven. Questions float around, like how to insulate a greenhouse properly. Just focus on materials that hold heat without blocking light too much. A few tweaks now mean healthier starts come spring.

Why It Matters

Cold snaps hit and plants shiver, but insulation keeps roots from freezing and leaves from wilting. Without it, heaters run overtime and costs start to spike. Bubble wrap or thermal screens can cut losses by half sometimes, ensuring that warm air stays put instead of vanishing into night. Even small setups can feel the pinch, with electric bills jumping 20–30% without proper seals.

Beyond cash, it's also about steady growth. Fluctuating temps stress seedlings and slow blooms. One overlooked draft can turn a thriving spot sour fast. Meanwhile, solid insulation mimics nature's buffer, like earth around roots outdoors. Your veggies push through winter stronger, no yellow edges or stunted stems.

Understanding Greenhouse Heat Loss

Heat slips out through thin walls – this is conduction, which pulls warmth into cold glass or plastic. Air leaks around vents add convection, swirling hot air away like smoke up a chimney. Radiation sneaks through clear panels at night, chilling everything inside. Clear evenings are actually worse than cloudy ones, with temps sometimes dropping 10–15 F (5–8 C).

Infiltration hits hardest in windy spots, where gaps suck in icy drafts. Foundations without barriers lose ground heat too, soil turning frosty below. Seal it all and your space holds steady, with no wild swings that zap plant vigor. Take a look around to spot the culprits. Feel for breezes on windy days, like a chill hand brushing skin. Mark them with tape for quick fixes later, turning inspection into a simple habit.

Greenhouse Insulation Materials

Bubble wrap clings to glazing, and those air pockets trap heat like a jacket. Polyethylene film layers up similarly, and it's cheap and quick to roll out.

Thermal screens pull across at dusk, reflecting warmth back in – it feels soft under fingers, rolls up easy by day. Some come with reflective foil, bouncing light back during short days. Layer them for extra thickness in harsh climates, but test for light reduction first.

Replace single pane glass with polycarbonate panels, which are thicker and hold heata better. Foam boards fit foundations, rigid and cuttable with a knife. Weather stripping seals edges, with a sticky backing that grabs tight. Insulating paint can coat frames, bouncing heat around. You can grab bubble wrap like this from Amazon for starters, or foam boards like this.

Shading compounds work in the summer, but skip them for winter's low light. Clear polycarb options let in 80–90% sun, balancing warmth and growth. You can mix materials for custom fits, like foam at base and bubble wrap above.

Key Areas to Insulate

Walls and glazing take the brunt – bubble wrap sheets can be pinned up, overlapping like shingles. Cut around frames and tape edges to block drafts. The roof needs lighter materials, such as thermal curtains sliding on wires overhead. They sag a bit when wet, but dry fast. Layer them double for extra cold zones, like northern exposures. Secure them with clips to avoid sagging over time, keeping coverage even.

The foundation and floor soak cold from ground – foam boards should be buried around the base, 2 feet (60 cm) deep. Gravel or mats inside add an additional buffer, which means less crunching underfoot on chill days. Doors and vents get weather stripping, with rubber seals pressing snug. A door sweep like this from Amazon stops under-edge leaks. Check hinges too – they loosen over time, widening gaps. Replace worn seals yearly for best results.

More Heat Retention Strategies

Thermal mass soaks daytime sun – water barrels painted black hold warmth, releasing slow overnight. Bricks or stones stacked along walls are heavy to lug but worth the effort. They feel warm to touch by morning, steadying the temperature in the air. Position them near plants for targeted heat, like radiators in a room. Fill barrels halfway to avoid spills, absorbing sun without overflow risk.

Seal air leaks with caulk. Automatic vent controls close at dusk, with motors whirring quietly. Group plants for microclimates, so humidity pools around leaves. Mulch floors to lock in ground warmth, adding another layer against the freeze. Straw or wood chips work, smelling fresh while insulating below.

Winterize citrus trees to shield them from frost’s brutal hit. Cold snaps torch leaves and kill fruit fast. Nail your prep, and your grove pulls through tough. Where you grow matters, so your climate calls the shots.

Frost protection for citrus trees means making good decisions before it hits. Citrus trees need blankets, mulch, and dialed-back water to stand tall. Weak prep means scorched leaves or lost crops. Lock in these steps, and your trees breeze through winter’s chill.

How to Winterize Citrus Trees

Winterizing citrus trees increases tolerance against wind and cold. Healthy roots and leaves keep fruit rolling strong. Picking the right gear can help your grove to be set to thrive come spring.

1. Cover with Blankets

Frost can destroy citrus, but covers keep trees cozy. Wrapping trees is essential to block killer cold snaps, shielding both leaves and fruit. Covers trap heat and prevent frost damage – frost burns leaves and fruit, halting growth or even killing branches. Blankets or frost cloth hold soil warmth and protect tender parts. Without them, trees face cracked bark and dropped crops.

The best wrapping practices ensure good air circulation and prevent moisture buildup. Drape blankets loosely so wet air doesn’t trigger mold, and anchor them to the ground – not the branches – to allow proper airflow. DeWitt Frost Blankets from Amazon work well for citrus, offering reliable protection.

You’ll want to cover trees when temps drop below 32 F (0 C), typically from late fall into early winter. Pull blankets off during warm days to avoid overheating. Watch forecasts closely and stay ahead of the frost.

2. Spray with Anti-Desiccants

Dry winter air sucks the life from citrus leaves, leaving them brittle. Anti-desiccant sprays seal in moisture and help keep foliage strong to save your grove.

Cold, dry winter air can dehydrate leaves fast. Harsh winds and low humidity weaken the tree, but anti-desiccant sprays coat foliage to slow water loss. Without this protection, leaves curl or drop, compromising tree strength.

Apply sprays in late fall, before freezing temps hit, and coat both sides of the leaves for maximum defense. Wilt-Pruf Anti-Desiccant from Amazon works well for citrus, locking in hydration during the driest months. Apply in November before the first frost, and reapply monthly if winter stays dry. Skip spraying during rain so the coating can stick properly.

3. Mulch Around the Base

Cold soil hammers citrus roots, but mulch helps keep them steady. Frost protection for citrus trees depends on warm, stable soil.

Mulching holds warmth and moisture in the soil, protecting roots from stress and death caused by freezing conditions. Without mulch, fruit output can crash in spring. Spread wood chips or straw 3 to 4 inches (7.5-10 cm) deep and about 2 feet (0.6 m) wide around the base of the tree. Keep mulch about 6 inches (15 cm) away from the trunk to prevent rot. Back to the Roots Wood Mulch from Amazon is a solid choice for citrus.

Apply mulch after watering, typically around November, and top it up if it thins out. Thick layers lock in warmth and keep roots happy.

4. Use Heat Sources

When severe cold hits, heat sources can save your citrus trees from frost. Gentle warmth keeps fruit alive and helps your grove stay productive.

Options like portable heaters, heat lamps, or string lights provide extra warmth. When temperatures fall below 28 F (-2 C), buds and fruit are at risk. Heaters or lights raise air temperatures just enough to block frost damage. Without added heat, severe cold can torch your harvest.

Set portable heaters or string lights under the canopy, avoiding direct contact with the tree. Frost King Electric Heat cables from Amazon are great for small groves. Keep cords dry and always check for fire risks.

Use heat protection when forecasts show temps below 28 F (-2 C), usually from December to February. Turn off the heat during warmer days to save energy and reduce stress on the trees.

5. Move Potted Trees Indoors

Potted citrus trees are a little trickier in winter. Moving them indoors or to sheltered spots helps them avoid frost’s bite.

Cold temperatures hit potted roots hard, putting them at risk for freeze damage. Relocating pots indoors or to covered areas helps trees stay warm and keeps fruit safe. Without protection, potted trees can decline fast.

Choose indoor spots with plenty of light and adequate humidity. Place pots near sunny windows or under grow lights. My own citrus trees sit under the Spider Farmer SF4000 that I got from Amazon, and I keep humidity around 50-60%. Misting the leaves helps boost moisture.

Transition plants indoors gradually over a week, bringing them in for a few hours a day. This helps prevent stress and keeps leaves from wilting. Sudden moves can shock the tree.

6. Water and Fertilize Less

Winter changes how you water and feed your citrus trees. Cutting back avoids rot while keeping the soil just moist enough to keep your grove healthy.

Too much water in winter can rot roots, and feeding can trigger weak growth that freezes easily. Dialing things back helps trees stay dormant and strong. Water every 2-3 weeks, checking the soil first. Stop fertilizing by late fall – around October. A 4-in-1 meter, like this from Amazon, can help you monitor moisture.

Cut watering and stop fertilizing before the cold really hits. Check the soil weekly to ensure it stays barely moist. That balance keeps trees healthy without encouraging tender growth that won’t survive frost.

Extra Tips

Winterizing citrus trees takes sharp eyes and timely action. Spotting damage early and protecting trees from wind can save your crop.

Inspect your trees regularly for signs of freeze damage or pest problems. Look for wilted or browned leaves, and act quickly to prune or treat as needed. If branches are damaged or dead, wait until spring to prune – after the last frost. Fiskars Pruning Shears from Amazon are a reliable tool for this job. Pruning too early can trigger vulnerable new growth.

Set up windbreaks or temporary barriers to shield trees from harsh winds. Use burlap or wooden screens to block gusts.

Perennials come back every year in your garden, which makes them relatively low maintenance. However, they do need dividing every once in a while. It’s important to understand which perennials to divide in fall before temperatures drop too low.

Perennial plants need dividing to ensure their roots have enough room to grow and take up nutrients. Dividing also helps manage the size and spread of plants and gives you more plants for additional garden areas. Here’s everything you need to know about plants to move before winter.

Why Divide and Transplant in Fall?

While many gardeners choose to divide perennials in the spring, fall is also a great time for this chore. The temperatures are cooler and dropping, which puts less stress on the roots that are being disturbed and cut.

If you don’t wait too long in fall, the soil will still be warm, which the roots also need to get established. Fall is often rainy, which will provide your new transplants with plenty of water to grow and get comfortable before winter. With the right timing, transplanted divisions will have enough time and good weather conditions to establish a good foundation for the following year.

The Best Plants to Divide and Move Before Winter

Perennials perform best when divided regularly, and fall can be a great time to do it, but now you need to know what to divide this time of year. For instance, can you divide hostas in the fall? How about dividing daylilies in fall? Or mums or peonies? Here’s a cheat sheet for perennials that can safely be divided just before winter:

• Astilbe
• Black-eyed Susans
• Coneflowers
• Coreopsis
• Daylilies
• Grasses
• Hostas
• Irises
• Oriental poppy
• Phlox
• Salvia

And a quick note about what not to divide now: fall-flowering plants. For example, it’s best to leave mums and asters alone until spring. Plants in flower are putting energy into blooms. They should be divided when they can put that energy into root and leaf growth.

Also avoid dividing woody plants. Only divide peonies if you really need to. They can be divided in the fall but generally don’t take well to being uprooted and moved.

How to Divide Perennials

Dividing plants is relatively easy, but it might require a little muscle if your plants are big or have extensive roots. Start by planning this chore for a cloudy day with cool temperatures. Moving plants on a hot day that is too dry will cause them unnecessary stress.

1. If there's no rain in the forecast, water your plants the day before dividing them. If it's been raining and the soil is moist, skip this step.
2. Use a garden fork or, ideally, a sharp transplanting shovel, like this Vnimti transplanting spade on Amazon, to dig up the parent plant. Work carefully and slowly to avoid causing the roots any unnecessary damage.
3. Gently remove dirt from the roots. They don’t need to be clean, but you should be able to see the roots to divide them.
4. Separate the plant into smaller divisions by gently pulling apart roots or cutting them with a sharp garden tool like Perwin's highly rated hori hori knife, available on Amazon.
5. Make sure each division has three to five healthy shoots and a good clump of vigorous roots.
6. Keep each division in the shade and moist until you’re ready to replant them in another location. Replant them as soon as possible.

If you’re not planning to keep your divisions, you can compost them. Or, share them with friends and neighbors.

Timing Tip – Don't Wait Too Long

Timing is critical with fall divisions. The best time to do this chore is four to six weeks before your area’s first hard frost. Check the average first frost date to get an idea of when this might occur. Depending on where you live and garden, the fall transplanting window is between late August and early October.

Be aware that the leaves may begin to wilt this time of year, but you can still divide and transplant. What’s most important is that the roots are healthy and vigorous.

Aftercare for Successful Transplants

Care for your divisions after transplanting is vital to their successful growth next year. Water them well right after replanting and continue to water regularly if it isn’t raining. Keep watering until you start getting regular frosts.

You can add a light layer of mulch to protect the roots from cold temperatures, but don’t fertilize plants now. This will only stimulate growth that can be damaged in winter. Wait until spring to feed them.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Dividing plants is easy once you get the hang of it. Avoid some common mistakes for the best results:

• Don’t divide when the weather is very hot and dry or very cold. This will only stress the transplants.
• Avoid damaging your plants' roots unnecessarily with dull tools. If you’ll be cutting roots, use a sharp tool.
• Don’t replant at depths that are too deep or too shallow. Plant transplants to the same depth the were before you divided them from the parent plants.
• Avoid stressing or even killing your transplants with too little water. They’ll need plenty of water leading into winter.

You can divide most perennials in spring, but fall is a good time to do this chore, too. Save yourself some time in spring and get a head start now with fall divisions and transplants.

Squirrels have a way of spotting your fresh bulb garden and turning it into their personal playground. They sniff the loose dirt and dive in, leaving holes where your tulips should be. It’s enough to make you swear off bulbs altogether. But there are ways to fight back without giving up on spring color that you’ve been patiently waiting for.

Knowing how to keep squirrels from digging up bulbs comes down to knowing their habits. They’re not actually trying to wreck your garden – they’re just hunting for a nice winter snack. Soft, starchy bulbs are their go-to, and easy to find by smell. Understanding that helps you pick the right defenses.

Let’s break down why they dig and five practical ways to stop them, from simple tweaks to tougher barriers. A bit of know how on how to get rid of squirrels is key to beautiful flowers from your bulbs. It’s about staying ahead of those bushy-tailed bandits.

Why Squirrels Dig Up Bulbs

Squirrels dig up bulbs because they’re putting away food for the cold months, when food is harder to find. Freshly planted bulbs are soft, full of carbs, and smell like dinner to them. They paw through loose fall soil, grabbing whatever looks good. Tulips are their top choice – sweet and easy to munch. Crocuses get hit hard too – the big ones they mistake for nuts. Hyacinths and daffodils take a beating, though daffodils’ bitterness makes them less tasty.

They ignore bulbs that are hard, bitter, or smelly. In yards with lots of squirrels, you might lose half your bed before anything sprouts. Picking the right bulbs is the first move to cut that risk.

1. Plant Deeper and Water Well

Planting bulbs deeper makes them just a little bit harder for squirrels to reach. Instead of 4-6 inches (10-15 cm), bury them more like 8-10 inches (20-25 cm) down. The extra soil layer gives roots a head start and keeps paws out. Water thoroughly after planting – the wet dirt packs down, making it less fun to dig.

A trick is to soak the soil overnight before planting. It settles everything tight, and squirrels hate the work. This works best for bulbs in loose soil. Just make sure drainage is good, or bulbs rot in the mud.

2. Create a Barrier

Barriers are a solid line of defense. Lay chicken wire or hardware cloth over the bed before backfilling. Cut holes for each bulb, then cover with soil. Squirrels hit the wire and give up. Use chicken wire, like this from Amazon that’s a half-inch mesh – too small for digging.

For pots, wrap the bottom with mesh or use bulb cages. These metal guards keep squirrels out while letting roots grow. Install in fall, and remove in spring if you want, though leaving them in works too. It’s a one-time fix that lasts seasons.

3. Use Deterrents like Cayenne Pepper

Spicy deterrents turn bulbs into something squirrels want no part of. After planting, just sprinkle cayenne pepper or a splash of hot sauce on the soil. Those critters catch a whiff and bolt – the burn hits their noses like fire. Reapply whenever rain washes it away or every couple of weeks to stay strong.

A cayenne pepper spray amps it up even more – whisk it with water and mist the bed. It’s a steal and won’t hurt your plants. Crank the heat with something like Liquid Fence from Amazon if you need more punch.

4. Use Squirrel-Resistant Bulbs

Switch to squirrel-resistant bulbs. Alliums and fritillaries have bitter tastes or tough skins they avoid. Plant these instead of tulips or crocuses, and your bed stays intact. They bloom just as pretty but without the squirrel drama.

Mix in snowdrops or lily of the valley for variety – they’re toxic or smelly, so squirrels pass. It’s the easiest way to win without extra work.

5. Grow Companion Plants

Companion planting confuses squirrels. Plant bulbs near pungent plants – their smells mask the bulb scent. Marigolds or lavender work well, with their strong aromas that throw off a squirrel’s nose.

Sow garlic or onions around the bed. They’re cheap and repelling. A row of these keeps squirrels guessing. It’s a natural way to protect your bulbs without chemicals or barriers.

Knowing how to propagate tomatoes saves money and keeps a garden stocked with top-notch plants. This year’s best performers can turn into next year’s crop without spending a cent. It’s a practical way to grow the same juicy varieties that thrived this summer.

Propagating new plants is an important part of learning how to grow tomatoes. The practice allows you to replicate favorites – whether it’s a sweet cherry tomato or a hefty beefsteak. There's no need to gamble on new seeds or nursery stock. Plus, you already know these tomato varieties will handle local soil and weather like champs.

Three solid methods make propagating tomatoes straightforward. And, if you're not ready to let go of your existing plants, then it's worth knowing that you can actually overwinter tomatoes indoors. Years of messing around in the dirt have honed these steps, with a few oddball tips thrown in to boost results. Here’s the rundown for getting free plants ready for next spring.

1. Saving Tomato Seeds

Saving tomato seeds is a dead-easy way to propagate plants for any heirloom tomato variety. No more crossing fingers on seed packets that might not deliver the same punch as last season’s tomatoes! One of my favorite heirloom tomatoes is the black cherry, which has such a unique, complex flavor. Every year, I save seeds and start a new crop the following spring. You can try growing it yourself with these seeds from Burpee.

However, if you are growing hybrid tomatoes, then this method will not recreate the same plant – and may not work at all. It's possible you will cultivate a new delicious variety, or it may be a total flop. So, unless you love experimenting, it's best to use other methods for hybrids.

To save seeds from heirlooms, pick a ripe tomato from a strong plant, slice it open, and scrape the seeds and goo into a jar. Add a bit of water, cover it loosely, and let it sit for a few days. That fermentation kills off diseases.

A trick not everyone mentions is to scoop off the moldy top layer after fermenting. Miss that step, and seeds might not sprout well. Rinse them clean, spread them on a paper towel to dry, and tuck them in an envelope, like these Joyberg Kraft Seed Saving Storage Envelopes from Amazon. Keep them somewhere cool and dry for spring.

2. Take Cuttings

Rooting tomato cuttings works great for propagating plants from healthy growers. Late in summer, grab clean, sharp pruning shears – Fiskar's Bypass Pruning Shears, available on Amazon, are perfect for the task – and snip a 6-inch stem from a side shoot, right below a leaf node. Strip off the lower leaves, pop it in a glass of water, and set it on a sunny windowsill. Roots show up in about a week.

Remember to swap out the water every couple of days. Stagnant water can stall cuttings, especially for chunkier varieties like beefsteak. When roots hit an inch, plant them in a pot with damp soil and keep them indoors, ready for spring transplanting. If your new plants get too big too soon, then repeat the process.

3. Layering Side Shoots

Layering side shoots is a low-fuss way to propagate tomatoes. Find a bendy side shoot low on a healthy plant and ease it down to the dirt. Bury a few inches of the stem, leaving the tip poking out, and pin it with a small rock or wire. Roots form in a couple of weeks.

Lightly scrape the buried stem with a clean knife beforehand. That little nick speeds up rooting for stubborn plants. Once roots take hold, cut the shoot free and pot it up for next season’s garden. Soil Sunrise's Plant Propagation Potting Mix, available on Amazon, is perfect for cuttings.

4. How to Overwinter Tomato Plants in Pots

To save a favorite tomato plant for next year, bring it indoors for winter. Pick a smaller type, like a cherry tomato, dig it up, and settle it into a pot with fresh soil. Snip it back to about a foot (30 cm) tall and tuck it by a south-facing window where sunlight pours in.

Alternatively, set plants up for a long harvest by investing in a planter on wheels, such as the Vego garden tomato planter box with trellis, available on Amazon – it can be easily rolled indoors when temperatures drop and is self-watering for minimal maintenance.

A trick many gardeners miss is to water sparingly. Drenching the soil indoors spells disaster with mushy roots. Keep it just damp and give the leaves a quick mist now and then to fake that summer breeze. Another tip is to turn the pot every few days for even light. This keeps the plant from leaning like it’s chasing the sun. Alternatively, invest in a grow light, like this GooingTop LED light from Amazon.

Tips for Successful Tomato Propagation

Pick robust, bug-free tomato plants to steer clear of future headaches. Clean tools with a splash of rubbing alcohol (available on Amazon) for a spotless start. Write down the variety and date on seed envelopes. Jumbling up your beefsteak and Roma isn’t fun when you are expecting one or the other.

Warm soil, near 70°F (21°C), gets cuttings and layering going quicker. You can also set pots on a sunny stone path for a day to soak up extra heat. A heat mat, like this Vivosun design from Amazon, can make a difference in chilly houses. For overwintered plants, watch for pests like aphids on tomato plants and give them at least 6 hours of good light. These steps set up next year’s tomatoes for a strong start in spring.