Garlic is an undisputed king in the kitchen, and a tasty foundational ingredient in all manner of dishes. But in the garden, it’s often a victim of its own reputation. We’re told it’s easy and hardy, which leads many gardeners to fall into the "plant it and forget it" trap. You tuck those cloves into the soil in October, walk away, and expect giant, papery heads come July. And quite often… it can be underwhelming.

Here’s the cold, hard truth: it’s a myth that you can simply plant garlic cloves in the fall and leave them until harvest time. If you want bulbs that impress, you cannot leave them to fend for themselves in the winter. Right now, in the chilly February soil, your garlic is stirring. It’s transitioning from a sleepy winter slumber to a high-speed growth phase. You need to seize this moment to help it reach its full potential.

By being proactive this month, you aren't just feeding a plant, you are bulking up your future harvest. The secret is adding a fertilizer for garlic at the key moment to promote leafy, green growth and big bulbs. Here’s how to give your garlic the late-winter energy drink it’s craving.

February Wake-Up Call for Garlic

Using fertilizer for garlic plants is important because it won’t grow well in poor soil. Garlic is a heavy feeder, meaning it has an Olympic-sized appetite for nutrients. Even if you amended your soil beautifully in the fall, those nutrients have likely been washed away by winter rains or locked up by the cold.

Imagine waiting 8 months for a garlic harvest, only to pull up bulbs the size of marbles. That’s stunting, and it usually happens because the plant didn't have enough fuel during its spring stretch. February is the most critical time to intervene. This is especially true if your soil tends to be nutrient-poor.

February is when the garlic starts to wake up and transition from dormancy to rapid growth. So this late winter boost is critical. A one-time fed now pays off big time in a few months. By feeding now, you ensure the plant has a massive solar panel of green leaves. Remember, more leaves in March means bigger bulbs in July.

The Big Late Winter Energy Drink

So, what is your garlic craving in February as the roots spread, and the green leaves begin to grow? Answer: it wants nitrogen. This is the primary nutrient that supports green, leafy growth. Those leaves contain the chlorophyll that harnesses energy from the sun and feeds the plant directly.

While the bulb grows underground, it is entirely powered by the leafy greens above. It is the energy stored in the leaves that directly plumps up those bulbs. Nitrogen is the primary driver of that lush, green foliage. If your garlic develops small, yellowish, or spindly leaves now, it simply won't have the energy to swell those cloves later.

There is no fixing small garlic in June – the work happens now in February. Think of high-nitrogen fertilizer as a physical therapy session for your garlic after a long winter nap. Fertilizing garlic in February gets the circulation moving, and growth exploding.

Hardneck versus Softneck

Depending on your preferences and your climate, you might be growing hardneck or softneck garlic. The type of garlic you’re growing dictates how aggressive you should be with your February boost.

• Hardneck Garlic: These are the cold-climate superstars. Because they have a relatively short, intense growing window, they are the most desperate for that February nitrogen hit. Don't be shy, these hard-stalk garlic varieties need the fuel to produce those thick stalks, and eventually those delicious scapes.
• Softneck Garlic: Often grown in milder climates, these softer stalked options have a longer runway. While they definitely need a feed, they are a bit more sensitive to over-fertilizing. A steady, moderate hand is best here to avoid burning the plants with too much salt-based fertilizer.

Although they both benefit from a February feeding, you might want to tweak the plan based on the variety. When growing garlic in winter, a nitrogen application is most important for hardneck varieties. They have a shorter growing season, and really need that infusion of nutrients.

Shop Nitrogen Fertilizers for Garlic

In order to bulk up your garlic bulbs the right way, look at the N-P-K ratio (the three numbers on the bag). You want that first number (nitrogen) to be the highest. Organic feeds are especially effective while the soil is still cold. Consider these:

How to Feed Garlic in Cold Soil

In February, the soil can still be temperamental. You have two main pro-strategies. There may be some new leaf growth, but you won’t want to wait for the rapid growth stage. If your soil is cold, the easiest way to fertilize is by broadcasting.

If you have a thick layer of straw or woodchips, you can simply scatter granular fertilizer (like blood meal) right on top. As the February rains fall, they will carry the nutrients down to the root zone without you having to disturb the soil. This will provide a slow, time-released feed.

When you’re able to dig into the soil, you can do a side-dressing. Use a hand trowel or combi hand tool like the Garden Guru Hoe and Tiller from Amazon to create a shallow trench 3 inches (8 cm) from the garlic stems. Sprinkle fertilizer in the trench, cover it back up, and water it in. This puts the food where the roots can reach it.

And if you need a gentler feed for softneck varieties, use a balanced approach. You can buy All-In-One Organic: Espoma Organic Garden-tone (3-4-4) from Amazon.

Regional Tweaks for Bigger Bulbs

While February is the general rule for feeding garlic, your local micro-climate might have a part to play. Here’s how to adjust, based on where you’re digging:

• Frozen North (Zones 3-5): If your ground is an ice block in February, don’t panic. Your February feeding might happen in early March. Wait until the snow melts and you see the first tiny green beaks poking through the soil. That is your signal to broadcast blood meal on top of the remaining slush.
• Mild South (Zones 8-10): In warmer regions, your garlic likely never went fully dormant. By February, it might already be 10 inches (25 cm) tall. For you, this isn't just a wake-up call – it’s the main course. Ensure you are watering consistently after fertilizing, as southern Februarys can occasionally have dry, flash-drought spells that can stress the plants.
• Rainy Pacific Northwest: High rainfall in the PNW can leach nitrogen out of the soil faster than the plants can eat it. Instead of one big heavy feeding of granular fertilizer, consider two smaller snacks – one in early February and another in early March – using a liquid fish emulsion to ensure the nutrients are getting directly to the roots.
• High Plains & Mountain West: Your biggest enemy isn't just the cold; it’s the wind. If you are broadcasting fertilizer over mulch, make sure to water it in immediately or lightly scratch it into the soil surface. Otherwise, that expensive nitrogen might literally blow away into your neighbor’s yard.

Your February Garlic Checklist

Feeding is the priority for your plants in February, but it shouldn’t stop there. To ensure your garlic hits its full potential, tackle these 3 tasks before the month ends:

• Moving Mulch: If a warm spell hits, gently pull back some of your heavy winter mulch. This allows the sun to hit the soil directly, waking up the microbial life and warming the roots. If you need to refresh your mulch after feeding, use a high quality weed-free straw such as Blue Mountain Organic Garden Straw Mulch from Amazon.
• Aggressive Weeding: Garlic hates competition, and this is a point where it needs to feel like the boss in the patch. Any weed growing in February is stealing the nitrogen you just paid for. Get them out now while they’re small. Early and frequent weeding protects the garlic from being outcompeted for nutrients and water.
• Monitoring Soil Moisture: Garlic likes damp conditions, but not soggy feet. If you’ve had a dry winter, give plants a light drink. If it’s been a swamp, ensure your drainage is clear, so that the bulbs don't rot before they can grow.

Mark your calendar to stop all nitrogen feeding by late April or early May (whenever scapes begin to appear). Too much fertilizer at this point will delay bulb development. Keep watering your garlic plants until about 2 weeks before harvest time. Too much water at this point can reduce the quality of the bulbs. They’re ready to harvest when about half of the leaves have died back.

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

As a resident of Western Washington for over 30 years, I think it’s fair to say I have had my share of experience dealing with slugs – with varying degrees of plant damage. While these gastropods are fairly equal opportunity nibblers, they absolutely can't resist my strawberry patch or tender veggie starts, and especially my hostas. You know what that means? War!

As a gastropod warrior, I've tried my share of slug baits and organic slug controls, from beer traps to salting to diatomaceous earth. I’ve even hand-picked the slimy beasts. In isolation, nothing seems to work for very long – but that was before I discovered this simple but very effective deterrent – garlic for slugs.

To be more exact, the answer is to use garlic water to deter slugs. However, I can’t take the credit for this idea. The idea of controlling these pests with garlic actually comes from a UK-based, award-winning specialist grower of hosta plants. In fact, this company’s hostas have got the royal seal of approval. Intrigued? Here’s why I’m reaching for a bulb of garlic to save me from those pesky mollusks…

Use Garlic to Combat Slugs

Sienna Hosta, a company based out of the ceremonial county of Surrey in South East England, is a specialist hosta grower that has won several awards. This company not only runs a brisk mail order business but also supplies award-winning hostas to His Majesty’s gardens at Highgrove. I figured if anyone knows how to deal with these mollusks, it’s them.

Not only do I find their reputation reassuring, but Sienna Hosta’s recipe for garlic water is all natural. This garlic drench for slugs is a boon for anyone who eschews chemicals. Their hack is friendly to pets and children, and won’t cause problems for beneficial insects. This garlic deterrent for slugs can be stored and used for weeks over the growing season.

You can keep the garlic water in airtight containers such as mason jars, available at Amazon. Depending on how much you are looking to store, you can also get 2L airtight bottles such as Vosarea liquid storage containers from Amazon. You can store unused garlic water for slugs in a garage or shed, or in the fridge, where it will keep for a few weeks.

How Garlic Helps Deter Slugs

So how does it work? Well, the first thing to bear in mind is that garlic water does not kill the slugs but instead deters them. The process is simple, but it is very effective. Garlic contains allicin, a compound that is released when the bulb is crushed. Strangely, the slugs are initially attracted to the odor. However, after a while, the smell irritates their mucous membranes, effectively repelling them.

So, using garlic water as an organic pesticide is actually a way to coexist with the slugs in your garden without having to sacrifice your plants. If you want to actually kill these pests, then garlic water isn’t the way to go. But using a garlic spray or garlic wash for slugs is an inexpensive and natural way to repel them – and it’s well worth a try to give your favorite plants a better chance of thriving.

How to Make Your Garlic Slug Repellent

So how do you make garlic water to repel slugs? The recipe for garlic water is simplicity itself and can be adjusted to your desired potency. All you need are two whole bulbs of fresh garlic and 2L (or around half a gallon) of water. If you grow garlic and you are lucky enough to have a few spare garlic bulbs from a recent harvest, so much the better – this is your chance to put them to use against the slugs.

Boil the garlic bulbs in the water until they are soft. Mush them with a fork, garlic press or reamer to release as much of their juices as possible. If you don’t have one, there are some good garlic press options at Amazon that can help with the mushing process.

Once the garlic mix has softened, pull the saucepan off the stove and strain out the skins and solid bits. After straining, the liquid will be cloudy and hopefully smelling pungent. Allow this to cool before you use it.

How to Use Your Garlic Slug Repellent

So now it’s time to enjoy the benefits of your garlic concoction. To use the garlic wash in the garden, dilute two tablespoons or one fluid ounce (30ml) with a gallon (5L) of water. The measurements here aren’t exact, though – you can add more or less as you see fit. Pour some of this diluted garlic wash into a sprayer or watering can.

If there are any plants you suspect are vulnerable to slug attack, spray or water them with this garlicky concoction every week. It’s important to stick to a regular routine, and keep an eye on slug numbers, especially during wet and cooler weather when the slugs come out in force.

Spray or water with your garlic repellent weekly between February and October – and basically for as long as you have plants that are growing that you care about and don’t want to lose to slugs. You may need to adapt the regularity of applications if it rains heavily.

Other Organic Slug Tricks & Deterrents to Try

Give this garlic hack a few weeks, and you should see a downturn in slug activity. However, if the idea of coexisting with slugs doesn't thrill you, there are some other cost effective, natural options for dispatching them – try a few of these simple slug traps together if you want to boost your chances of banishing your slugs for good:

• Try hand-picking them. Plan to go out at dusk, ideally after a rainfall. Pluck the slugs from on or around your plants, and dispatch them in a bucket of soapy water.
• Beer traps can also be used to get rid of slugs. Insert a bowl or dish filled with beer into the ground, making sure the container has sides that are fairly deep.
• Iron phosphate slug pellets can provide a safer alternative to metaldehyde pellets for gardens with wildlife or pet considerations. Try Monterey Sluggo Maxx Iron Phosphate pellets from Walmart.
• The old salt trick will kill the slugs by dehydrating them. However, salt can also affect your plants, so you should use salt sparingly and try to keep it off the plants.
• You can also try egg shells in the garden. Crush shells and sprinkle them around slug affected plants. The jury’s out on how effective this method is. Gastropods can glide across pointed edges, so it might depend on how much you use, and how sharp the edges are.

Adding blue allium plants to your spring garden attracts pollinators, and makes your flower beds bright with color. While the size, form and bloom period of blue allium flowers vary from one species to the next, each is a dependable perennial. Their longevity and ease of growth make them some of the ultimate flowering alliums, as well as contributing to memorable floral displays, both in borders and containers. So what types of blue onions are best? Below, we take a closer look at some of the most popular varieties of blue allium for the home landscape, their unique characteristics, and specific needs regarding their care.

Dazzling Blue Allium Plants That Look Unreal

Fall-planted bulbs like alliums are an easy and cost-effective way to add vibrancy to your spring and summer garden. When growing alliums, many cultivars are marketed toward growers looking for true-blue flowers, but colors may vary. Most plants of this type open to reveal a range of blue-purple tones. Larger flowers, specifically, giant blue allium types, remain among the most popular. However, dwarf and low-growing species can also lend themselves well for use in your landscape, whether you’re designing a blue garden, a prairie meadow planting or a minimal modern plot. For unbelievable ornamental onions, try these blue allium flowers.

1. Blue of the Heavens

Growers are certain to delight in the precise color and form of this attractive blue globe onion. Small flower clusters are held atop tall stems, each reaching 12-24in (30-60cm) in height. Densely arranged florets further add to the head's full appearance. The plants serve as a magnet to passing pollinators, luring beneficial insects to a pollinator garden with an abundance of nectar. You can expect the bulbs to easily perennialize, with hardiness through USDA zones 4-10.

2. Blue Allium

Another popular variety, common Blue Allium plants are prized for their deeply saturated buds. Where conditions are ideal, these bulbs will multiply, growing to form dense colonies. This makes them ideal if you are gardening with perennial beds. Their ease of care and resistance to disease are great for low-maintenance landscapes. Alliums of this type will grow best in USDA zones 4-8.

3. Persian Blue

Persian Blue allium makes an impressive visual statement with a design that’s frequently used in blue onion motifs. Reaching up to 3ft (1m) in height, the bulbs can be planted en masse in a blue onion design, or grown in smaller clusters. With either method, the flowers draw your eye through the growing space with especially brilliant blooms serving as the focal point of beds. Their ornamental flower heads persist over several weeks, which can extend the life of perennial flower beds and borders and continue to attract pollinators. Persian Blue allium plants are hardy to USDA zones 3-8.

4. Schrenk

Schrenk alliums are best known for adding a light, airy texture to beds. Sparsely arranged flowers open to reveal an appealing, true-blue tone. Like other species, growers can expect the bulb to multiply readily where conditions are ideal. Experienced gardeners have found this type best suited for informal beds or naturalized spaces. The plants are hardy to USDA zones 4-7.

5. True Blue

As its name would imply, True Blue allium bulbs are among the top options if you’re in search of crisp, blue hues. This cultivar retains its ornamental form, with its modest flower head held atop slender stems. Larger plantings are of special interest, creating a veritable sea of color. Bulbs thrive where they receive full sun throughout the day, or at least six-eight hours. Routine irrigation and feeding further help perennialize bulbs in a flower garden and assist in the production of flowers.

6. Zamin

Zamin allium bulbs are admired for their showstopping blooms. Each cluster of florets reaches over 4in (10cm) grabbing the attention of both growers and pollinators. Expect blooms in subtle shades of pastel blue, contrasted by a darker midsection. Disease-resistant, these bulbs will behave as gorgeous perennial flowers throughout USDA zones 3-9.

Allium, known for its pungent aroma, includes more than 500 species, including the familiar onion, garlic, chives, and a variety of beautiful flowering plants. Pollinators love the hardy, long-lasting plants, but deer and other critters usually leave them alone. If ornamental alliums are so practical and attractive, how could there be any problems with ornamental alliums in the garden? Read on to learn more.

Are Alliums Invasive?

Not all allium varieties are well-behaved. Some become weeds that are nearly impossible to get rid of, especially in mild climates. The bad news is that dormant bulbs can remain in the soil for up to six years. The biggest offenders are wild allium (Allium ursinum), wild garlic (Allium vineale), and three-cornered leek (Allium triquetrum). All three spread like wildfire, quickly choking out gentler plants that you try to establish in your garden.

There’s really no easy answer when it comes to controlling allium plants. Be patient and persistent, as it will probably require several go-rounds. Oregon State University says to expect the process to take a minimum of three or four years, and maybe even more.

Controlling Allium Plants in the Garden

If you need more information on how to manage flowering onions, here are a few tips:

Pulling: Pulling may help, but only if you can manage to get all the bulbs. The problem with pulling is that tiny bulbs often break off when you pull the clump, and it’s very difficult to get them all, especially if your soil is hard and compacted. Try pulling after a rainfall or watering the area deeply a day or two ahead of time but be aware that pulling may not be the final solution.

Digging: It isn’t much fun, but digging the old-fashioned way is probably your best bet when it comes to getting rid of invasive ornamental alliums in the garden. Dig a deep, wide area around the clump to get the tiny bulbs. Repeat the process every two weeks throughout the season. Don’t shake the dirt off the clump; just place the entire plant into a box or bag so stray bulbs don’t escape. Discard the clumps, soil, and all. By all means, don’t put the clump in your compost heap.

Mowing: Mowing doesn’t get rid of the underground bulbs, but cutting off the tops prevents blooms from developing seeds that generate even more plants.

Herbicides: Chemicals are generally ineffective because the substance doesn’t stick to the tall, slender, somewhat waxy leaves and does little to combat the underground bulbs. If you do want to try herbicides, do so before the plants reach 8 inches (20 cm.) tall. Mow immediately before treating the allium because newly mowed leaves have rough edges that improve absorption.

Controlling Allium in Lawns

If allium plants are popping up on your lawn, be sure to water and fertilize regularly. A healthy stand of grass is more likely to choke out the invaders.

Crops like garlic and onions are a favorite for many home gardeners. These kitchen staples are an excellent choice for overwintering in the vegetable patch and for growth in containers or raised beds. As with any crop, it’s important to pay close attention to the needs and growth requirements of the plants to ensure the best results possible.

This also means routine observation of potential pest and disease issues which may damage plants or diminish yields. One specific issue, allium white rot, should be monitored carefully, as it can result in complete loss of allium plants.

What is Sclerotium on Alliums?

Sclerotium on alliums, or allium white rot, is a fungal issue. What causes white rot specifically? Allium white rot is caused by a fungus called Sclerotium cepivorum. Even in small quantities, these fungal spores can quickly spread to infect large plantings of garlic and onions.

When conditions are ideal, with temperatures around 60 degrees F. (16 C.), the fungus is able to germinate and reproduce in the soil.

Allium white rot symptoms include yellowing of leaves and stunted plants. Upon closer inspection, growers of onions and garlic (and related allium plants) will find that the bulbs have also been affected. Bulbs of infected plants may appear dark in color and covered with a white, matted “fuzz” or black specks.

Treating Sclerotium White Rot

When allium white rot symptoms are first noticed in the garden, it is imperative that you promptly remove and destroy any infected plant matter. This will help to prevent the spread of the infection in the current season’s crop, though it may not prevent it completely.

Allium white rot can remain in the garden soil for up to 20 years after the initial infection. This makes it especially detrimental to home gardeners and those growing in limited spaces.

As with many soil-borne diseases, the best strategy is prevention. If allium plants have never been grown in the garden before, use plantings are disease free from the start. When buying, make certain only to purchase seed or transplants from a reputable source.

Once allium white rot has been established in your garden, controlling it may be difficult. Long-term crop rotation will be essential, as infected areas of the garden should no longer be used to grow onions or garlic. It will also be important to avoid the spread of the spores through the use of contaminated garden tools or even foot traffic on cultivated areas. 

Though the use of fungicides has provided some control, these options are seldom realistic for home gardeners. Select studies suggest that the use of solarization in the growing space has also helped to reduce the viability of the fungus present in the garden soil.

Garlic plants are members of the allium family. Although garlic is often considered a kitchen essential, you might also come to think of it as a garden essential, since many alliums double as ornamental bulbs. One to look for is golden garlic, also called moly garlic. What is moly garlic? It’s an allium bulb plant that offers bright, long-lasting yellow flowers on tall stalks. For more allium moly information, plus tips on how to grow golden garlic, read on.

What is Moly Garlic?

If you’ve never heard of this type of allium before, you may ask: what is moly garlic? According to Allium moly info, moly garlic (Allium moly) is a bulb plant native to Europe with a very attractive flower. The plant has many common names, including moly garlic, golden garlic and lily leek. It grows from a bulb and forms clumps of 12-inch (30 cm.) tall foliage. The blue-green leaves resemble tulip or leek foliage. In springtime, moly garlics grow tall, leafless flower stalks topped with clusters of star-shaped yellow blossoms. Both the brilliant hue and the flower shape are eye-catching and appealing, and they make great cut flowers. That’s why so many gardeners in the U.S. have started growing golden garlic.

How to Grow Golden Garlic

If you are wondering how to grow golden garlic, you’ll be happy to learn that the plant thrives in most regions in the country. It grows well in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. Growing golden garlic is a snap, and you won’t need many bulbs to get going. That’s because these plants quickly naturalize an area, returning year after year to brighten up a sunny corner. It looks particularly lovely when it appears in wide swaths of yellow. In order to start growing golden garlic, plant the bulbs in autumn in well-draining soil, ideally rich, sandy loam. You can site them in full sun in most regions, but part shade is better if your summers are hot.

Allium Moly Care

Don’t think of moly as an invasive species, because it isn’t. But the plant does naturalize quickly, both by self-seeding and by offsets. Just a small selection of golden garlic bulbs can colonize a bed quickly. If you are concerned about the plants spreading, you should include deadheading the blossoms before seed sets as part of your regular Allium moly care.

If you love wildflowers, try growing a nodding pink onion. What’s a nodding pink onion? Well, its descriptive name gives more than just a hint but read on to learn how to grow nodding onions and about nodding onion care.

What is a Nodding Pink Onion?

Nodding pink onions (Allium cernum) are ornamental flowering onions. They are native to North America from New York state to Michigan and into British Columbia and south through the mountains and cooler areas of Arizona and North Georgia. Nodding pink onions can be found growing on rocky soils in dry meadows and prairies, the open woods, and in glades and along bluffs. They grow from 8-18 inches (20-46 cm.) in height in grass-like clumps from which emerges a slim conic bulb. Each slender bulb bears a single stem (scape) with up to 30 light pink to lavender flowers. The blossoms look like tiny fireworks perched atop the flower stems peeping just over the foliage. The scape droops at the top as do the small bell-shaped flowers, hence the botanical name ‘cernum,’ which means ‘nodding’ in Latin. Nodding pink onions bloom in the early to mid-summer and attract bees and butterflies. The foliage lasts through the late summer and then dies back. Over the course of time, the clump produces new offsets until an entire area can be taken over by this onion wildflower.

How to Grow Nodding Pink Onions

Nodding pink onions can be grown in USDA zones 4-8. They work well in rock gardens, borders and in cottage gardens. They are best planted in small groupings and interplanted with other perennials to disguise the fading foliage. Growing nodding pink onions is very easy and the plant naturalizes very well. It can be propagated easily from seed or bulbs can be purchased. It will thrive in well-draining soil with full sun exposure but can tolerate clay soil and difficult areas such as gravely soil.

Nodding Onion Care

As simple as nodding onions are to grow, so too is caring for them. Nodding onions will readily self-seed, so if you don’t want the plant everywhere, it is wise to deadhead the flowers before they set seed. If you want to collect the seed, wait until the seed capsules turn tan or straw in color but before they open, when the seeds are black. Store the seeds in the refrigerator, labeled and dated, for up to 3 years. Divide the plants every third year when 8-10 bulbs appear in a clump.

Allium leaf miners were first detected in the Western Hemisphere in December of 2016. Since then they’ve become a serious pest of onions and other alliums in Canada and the Eastern U.S. Find out about detecting and treating allium leaf miners in this article.

What are Allium Leaf Miners?

Allium leaf miners are tiny insects. During the larval phase, they can reach a length of one-third of an inch (1 cm.). Adults are only one-tenth of an inch (0.25 cm.) long. Even so, these pests can ruin crops of onions, garlic, leeks, and other alliums. Their tiny size makes allium leaf miner adults hard to identify on site. On close inspection, you may be able to see a bright yellow spot on their heads. The larvae are cream-colored grubs without heads. You’ll need magnification to see the cream-colored eggs. Since they are so tiny and difficult to see, it’s easier to identify the damage they do to your crop. As the insects feed on the leaves, they become wavy or shrunken. This is similar to the damage caused by using a sprayer that has previously been used to spray herbicides. To be sure, you can use yellow sticky traps to trap the adult flies. Although the traps reduce the adult population, they don’t completely control these allium plant pests. Understanding the allium leaf miner life cycle can help you protect your crop. They produce two generations each year. The adults emerge from the soil in late winter or early spring and inject eggs into the leaves. When they hatch, the tiny larva feed on the leaves, working their way toward the base of the plant. They eventually drop to the soil where they pupate through summer and emerge as adults in fall to lay the eggs for the next generation. The second generation pupates through the winter.

Allium Leaf Miner Control

Once you have a feel for their life cycle, treating for allium leaf miners is easier in that you’ll be better equipped at prevention. Rotate your crops so that you aren’t planting alliums where the insects may be pupating in the soil. Use row covers to prevent the insects from ever reaching your crops. Apply the row covers before the adults emerge or right after planting. Spinosad is a good insecticide for treating the adults, and it is relatively safe. Spray when the adults are flying. Yellow sticky traps can help you determine when the time is right. Read the entire product label and follow all safety precautions when using spinosad.

Allium, also known as flowering onion, is a spectacular and unusual looking flowering bulb that will add interest to any garden. As the name suggests, allium plants are members of the Allium family, which includes such plants as garlic, onions, leeks, and chives. All of these plants produce similar round, pom-pom shaped flower heads, though alliums are the only ones usually exclusively grown for their flowers. But what do you do with your allium once it’s finished flowering? Keep reading to learn more about how to care for alliums after blooming.

Caring for Allium Bulbs

Allium plants produce big, round, softball-sized flowers in shades of purple. They last best in sunny but sheltered spots where the wind is less likely to blow the flowers apart. In these conditions, they bloom in early summer and tend to last for about three weeks. Once the flowers have faded, you can deadhead the blooms. Leave the foliage in place, though, as the leaves need time to fade naturally to gather energy into the bulbs for next season’s growth. The leaves may look a little straggly, so it’s a good idea to plant alliums in a bed with later blooming flowers that can hide and distract from them.

How to Care for Alliums after Blooming

Allium post bloom care is very easy. Simply keep the plants moderately watered until they fade to yellow and begin to shrivel. At this point, you can cut the plants down to the ground, leaving them where they are or dividing them. Allium bulbs should be divided every three or four years. To do this, simply dig around the plant with a trowel and lift the bulbs out. There should be a collection of bulbs, which you can separate gently with your hands. Replant a few in the same spot, and plant the others right away in new locations. Caring for allium bulbs that you don’t want to divide is even easier. Simply cut back the foliage when it fades, and in the fall, cover the soil with 2 to 3 inches (5-7.5 cm.) of mulch. Remove the mulch in the spring to make way for new growth.

A type of ornamental onion, also known as round-headed leek, drumstick allium (Allium sphaerocephalon) is appreciated for the egg-shaped blooms that appear in early summer. Hollow, grayish green foliage provides a lovely contrast to the pink to rosy-purple drumstick allium flowers. Drumstick allium plants are suitable for growing USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 8.

How to Plant Drumstick Allium Bulbs

At heights of 24 to 36 inches (61-91 cm.), drumstick allium plants are difficult to miss. Showy drumstick allium flowers add beauty to sunny beds, borders, wildflower gardens, and rock gardens, or you can plant them in a mixed garden with tulips, daffodils, and other spring bloomers. You can also plant drumstick allium bulbs in containers. The long, sturdy stems make drumstick allium flowers ideal for cut flower arrangements. Plant drumstick allium bulbs in spring or fall in sandy, well-drained soil that has been amended with compost or organic matter. Drumstick allium plants require full sunlight Avoid damp, poorly drained locations because the bulbs are likely to rot. Plant the bulbs at a depth of 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.). Allow 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm.) between bulbs.

Drumstick Allium Care

Growing drumstick alliums is easy. Water the plants regularly during the growing season, then let the foliage go dry after blooming ends in late summer or early autumn. Allow the leaves to die down to the ground. Drumstick allium flowers self-seed readily, so deadhead spent blooms if you want to prevent rampant spread. If the clumps are overcrowded, dig and divide the bulbs after the foliage dies down. If you live in a climate north of zone 4, dig the bulbs and store them for the winter. Alternatively, grow drumstick allium plants in containers and store the containers in a freeze-free location until spring. That's it! Growing drumstick alliums is just that simple and will add an extra touch of interest to the garden.

Prairie onions are a member of the Allium family, which includes onions and garlic. The bulb-forming plants are native to the central part of the United States but have been introduced in many other areas. Wild prairie onions are edible and good used raw or cooked. Prairie onions in the garden add a natural grace, with their height and structure blending perfectly with cultivated plants and other native perennials.

What are Prairie Onions?

Wild prairie onions abound on dry, inhospitable prairies and rocky slopes. What are prairie onions? Known as Allium stellatum wildflowers, prairie onions are 1 to 2 foot (30.5-61 cm.) tall perennial herbs that form edible bulbs. They produce a starry head of clustered florets culminating in a globe-like inflorescence. Related to the Lily family, these plants are also called prairie onions due to their tenacious habit of growing on rocky hillsides. The foliage is insignificant and forms in early spring before the stalk begins to grow. Once the stalk rises, the leaves die back leaving a clean, vertical green stem topped with the spectacular pink, white, or lavender flower.

Prairie Onions in the Garden

Wild prairie onions produce copious tiny, black seeds once the flowers are done. These self-sow readily but the resulting seedlings take several years to form bulbs and bloom. Mature plants of Allium stellatum wildflowers form bulblets over time. These are offset bulbs that are generally vegetative. The easiest way to add prairie onions to the landscape is through bulbs or the division of existing plants. Bulbs need protection from the hot sun and prefer partial shade and moist soil. Prairie onion care is minimal. The plants tend to naturalize when planted in preferred locations and the flowers will rise annually in mid to late spring.

Planting Wild Prairie Onions

Prepare the soil in an appropriate site by digging at least 6 inches (15 cm.) into the soil and tilling while adding generous amounts of leaf litter or compost. This will loosen the soil and increase the porosity so the bulbs don't get soggy and rot. Add a handful of bone meal and work into the soil as well. Plant the bulbs with the root side down, pointed side up. They need to be at least 4 inches (10 cm.) deep in the soil but not more than 8 inches (20.5 cm.). Cover with the amended soil and pat down gently. The best time for planting is early spring, but, in mild areas, you can plant in fall.

Caring for Your Native Onions

The most important detail of prairie onion care is division. Since the seeds take such a long time to produce a flowering plant, the best way to ensure blooms is from divisions of the bulbs. Each division will become a new plant. Additionally, good drainage and once-a-year fertilizer or bone meal in spring will get your wild prairie onion off to a good start for the blooming season. Sample some of the new stems as a substitute for chives or pull out the bulblets for roasted onions. Wild prairie onions are an excellent replacement for any regular onion. Enjoy their sweet pungency and ease of care.

Anyone looking to grow alliums will be captivated by their extraordinary dimensions, evoking the effect of fireworks captured mid-explosion. From shimmering compact forms to basketball-sized orbs, these signature globes with their star-shaped petals add architectural dynamism and a whimsical flourish to any garden. Beloved in both traditional cottage themed displays and ultra modern floral settings, it’s hard to believe they are the ornamental relatives of leeks, garlic and chives: these exquisite floating spheres elevate the onion family to vivid heights. Yet despite their attention-grabbing dimensions, they are easy to cultivate, and even beginners can enjoy their dazzling spherical symphonies.

Given the singular sculptural impact of these sun-loving perennial flowers, they will fit right into any garden. Bees and butterflies adore their nectar-rich blooms in late spring and early summer displays, while deer and rodents steer clear of their scent. The toughest part about growing these uniquely dreamy, drought-tolerant ornamental onions is choosing which variety to go for, since there are dozens of dynamite spring flowering bulbs for every space and style. Fall is the time to plant your alliums for exquisite displays next spring. So find out how to grow and enjoy your own dazzling constellations of easy flowering bulbs with enormous impact!

Quick Allium Facts

Planting Alliums

Their stature and floral detail can seem overwhelming, almost otherworldly, but it could not be easier to plant their bulbs and grow your own dynamic allium flowers. Despite their designer allure, they require only a basic set of planting criteria to be met, and their ongoing care requirements are modest and easy-going. Alliums comprise a large genus, containing 1000 species, including onions and garlic. They have close associations with their tastier edible cousins when it comes to planting.

If you aren’t sure when to plant allium bulbs, you have a fairly generous planting window in the fall. You can plant the bulbs from September and any time in November before the ground freezes. They grow easily from a bulb planted in the ground, and depending on your USDA hardiness zone, soil conditions, and space, they won’t need much to flourish. Ideally, they need a few weeks in the ground before the first hard frost so they can establish roots before winter.

Most common ornamental types are hardy in zones 4-9, so just give some thought to the condition of your planting site. If possible, test your soil before planting with a soil meter like the Raintrip 4-in-1 Soil Meter from Amazon, which can help you assess moisture levels and nutrient load as well as soil pH. For the strongest root development and spring growth, ensure the following needs are met.

Soil Needs

Alliums thrive in soil that mimics the dry slopes of their native mountain and meadow habitats: this means it needs to be loose, well-drained, sandy or loamy. Drainage is critical – alliums prefer conditions that don’t stay soggy for long. Heavy clay or soggy areas can lead to bulb rot, so if you have any worries about soggy soil, you’ll need to supercharge the soil and improve drainage before planting your bulbs. To reinvigorate your soil before growing allium bulbs, add a little coarse sand, fine gravel or vermiculite such as Plantonix Vermiculite Bliss from Walmart to improve aeration and drainage, as well as a measure of aged compost to give optimal soil structure. If you can reduce the risks of bulb rot due to poor drainage, you’ve already given your bulbs the best chance of flourishing.

Beyond drainage, alliums aren’t overly fussy about soil types, but they do prefer a soil pH that is neutral or slightly alkaline (6.5-7.5). If your soil is acidic, add a dusting of lime to bring the pH closer to neutral. A little garden lime like True Organic’s Garden Lime from Amazon can help raise alkalinity levels to a more desirable level.

Light and Warmth

Alliums love a sunny spot as well as one that is well-drained. In this respect, they are very much like their garlic and onion cousins. Sunshine is essential for the most dynamic ornamental onion displays. Aim for at least 6 hours of direct light each day. When growing alliums, a sunny border, open rock garden, or raised bed is ideal. The more direct sunlight you can guarantee, the better your chances of producing those tall, sturdy stems and those rich, vivid jewel tones.

Depending on the allium variety you are keen to grow, you can get away with some partial shade. Smaller species can tolerate light shade, although it might affect the abundance and vitality of blooms. A little dappled shade is fine for dwarf or woodland varieties, but full sunlight brings out their best. The last thing you want are sad-looming alliums with floppy stems!

Planting Step by Step

Once you have selected a sunny, open site with excellent drainage, you’re on your way and the process of planting is straightforward. The only other things to bear in mind when planting are to make sure you maintain the correct planting depth and spacing. If you have experience of growing bulb gardens, you should hopefully find this is like second nature. Having already prepped the soil and amended with coarse sand and some aged compost into the top 8-10 inches (20-30 cm) for texture, a couple of good planting tools can help you secure the allium bulbs.

Your choice of planting tool will depend on how many bulbs you are planting, where you are planting, and soil condition. The Garden Weasel Long Handle Bulb Planter 91350 from Amazon is great for preparing holes faster in a more ergonomic way, especially in thicker soils, deeper beds and larger areas. If you’re using containers or smaller scale bed plantings, you can use a hand tool like the highly rated Berry&Bird Garden Bulb Planter from Amazon, which can plant bulbs with 6-inch depth. Then knowing how to grow allium bulbs just involves these simple steps:

1. Dig the holes: Depending on the variety, this needs to be 2-3 times the bulb’s height. Sprinkle a small amount of bone meal, such as Back To The Roots Organic Bone Meal from Amazon, into the hole to help boost root strength. It’s also helpful to add a slow-release bulb feed at the time of planting. A phosphorus-rich fertilizer like Espoma Organic Bulb Tone from Amazon helps promote healthy bulb development.
2. Plant bulbs into holes: Depending on variety, allium bulbs need to be 4–8 inches apart.. Plant the bulbs with the pointed ends facing upwards and the flat bases (or the root plates) facing down into the earth. Cover the bulb with soil and gently firm the surface. Correct depth and spacing means optimal blooming and less risk of bulb rot.
3. Backfill and firm lightly: Fill in the remaining soil around the bulbs, firm gently, and water once after planting. Water lightly, just enough to settle the soil. Then you can basically let nature take over. You can optionally mulch lightly to deter weeds and retain moisture and deter weeds. But this is as complicated as planting gets.

How to Care for Alliums

Allium care is surprisingly straightforward once your bulbs are in the ground. Assuming your soil conditions and planting site have been well thought out and adequately prepped, you won’t need to be constantly worrying about specific cultivation routines. While varieties will have their own specific needs in terms of support and space, as long as you keep your alliums in regular sunshine and free from soggy soil conditions, there are just a few core requirements to keep in mind.

Watering

Alliums require regular watering while they are establishing, but they absolutely detest standing in wet soil for long periods of time, and hydrate accordingly. The last thing you want to do is foster bulb rot after all your good planting work. Where there are especially hot days, you can water more, but generally speaking the best time to water is once or twice a week, deeply, for stronger root growth. Keep their site not too wet, not too dry, and water prudently during active growth.

Alliums are reliably drought-tolerant once established. Water moderately during growth and bloom, but ease off once the leaves start to yellow, which signals dormancy is on the way. In terms of post bloom allium care, bulbs prefer drier summer dormancy. Just remember, consistently soggy soil is their worst enemy. Alliums prefer life on the drier side.

Fertilizing

Feed alliums with a balanced fertilizer that can release nutrients gradually and naturally during active growth. If you applied a bulb feed at the time of planting in the fall, you should only need to feed again in early spring when you see the first signs of growth appearing. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, which promote leafy growth over flowers. A good balanced bulb fertilizer to apply is Espoma Organic Bulb Tone from Amazon which is phosphorus-rich and promotes healthy roots and strong blooms.

Whether you apply a bulb-specific formula or a general-purpose, slow-release fertilizer, try to avoid the temptation to overfeed. One application in spring during active growth is fine in order to support bloom production. Overfeeding can lead to soft growth and fewer flowers. Remember to follow label instructions carefully.

Mulching

To help maintain even soil temperatures and suppress weeds, it’s fine to add a thin layer of compost or bark-based mulch, such as Back to the Roots Organic Mulch with Natural Wood, available from Amazon. As long as you have taken steps to enhance soil drainage, this is a sensible precaution to help protect soil goodness and regulate drainage.

Just don’t make the mulch layer too thick, and don’t pile it on too thickly. The idea is to gently insulate and regulate growing conditions – not suffocate your growing alliums! Alliums like and need a little breathing space, just as they appreciate soil drainage. Add around the base of stems, taking care not to touch bulb crowns or stems directly or block the emergence of growing shoots.

Support

It might seem like these plants defy gravity, the way they manage to hold those giant spherical flowerheads aloft the way they do. But as long as the ground is well drained and fed, and your alliums are in full sunshine, nature will do a fine job of producing stems strong enough to keep these ornamentals upright. If you are worried and need a little extra reinforcement in the first weeks of emerging plant growth, it is fine to add allium plant supports (gently, so as not to disturb the roots).

Once you see flower stalks developing, use Kingsyard 5-Pack Plant Stakes from Amazon to prevent bending and snapping in the formative weeks and reinforce the stems as they thicken. Beyond that, depending on neighboring plants, variety, and weather exposure, your alliums should hold their own well.

Transplanting

Alliums prefer not to be moved once they have established. If you absolutely have to relocate your ornamental onions, it is best to do so in the transition from one growing season to the next. In other words, wait until the foliage and flowers have died back and the plant has entered dormancy. You would normally only need to do this if you have concerns about the planting site and don’t feel like your alliums received enough sunshine during their flowering season, or if you think they might have become crowded. Lift, divide bulbs, and replant immediately in fresh soil.

Pruning & Deadheading

Pruning and deadheading are activities that can be fairly time consuming for countless other ornamentals – but as far as allium care goes, it’s a doddle. It’s up to you whether you choose to deadhead or not. You can remove spent flower heads after the blooms fade to keep the garden tidy and to prevent unwanted self-seeding. That said, spent allium flower heads continue to look extraordinary through the changing seasons, and can add visual brilliance long after the petal colors have faded. The sight of fall and winter frosts sparkling on the dried out explosives of faded flower heads can really lift the spirits in the quieter months of the year.

Whatever you do, resist the urge to cut back the foliage too soon. It’s true that allium leaves can start turning yellow naturally and become weary-looking quite quickly in the summer garden, but don’t be tempted to prune foliage until the time is right. The fading leaves are still sending vital energy back to the bulbs to help shore up reserves for the following year’s blooms. So let them do their thing.

This is where planting groups and neighboring planting schemes can be very important for growing alliums, as they help to disguise the fading leaves, while allowing the structural elegance of the flower heads to enchant even after summer is over. Where you do wish to prune, wait until the leaves have completely died and withered back, and trim them cleanly at the base. As well as pruning, you can deadhead any spent flowers you aren’t leaving for structural interest, by using sharp snips or pruners such as the Spear & Jackson CuttingSet8Traditional Bypass & Anvil Secateur Set from Amazon, for precision cuts that cause minimal damage to plants.

Allium Care Calendar

Great Allium Varieties

Growing the ultimate flowering alliums shouldn’t be hard. The tricky part is figuring out whether to pick one shade or variety, or mix and match for the most extraordinary beds and borders imaginable! Alliums vary dramatically by species; from dwarf types like Allium karataviense to giants like A. giganteum. You can cultivate spectacular spherical umbels in purple, pink, gold and white allium tones. Just think about where that structure and vertical drama can serve you best. Some dramatic options include:

• Giant Allium: These towering 4-foot stems proudly display their 6-inch (15 cm) violet globes. Giant Allium (A. giganteum) is a genuine showstopper both in terms of spherical flower size and vertical impact.
• Globemaster: This purple allium produces long-lasting blooms that last for weeks. Allium Globemaster develops dense violet spheres on sturdy 2-feet (60 cm) stems. These impactful purple globes bring wow factor to borders and to cutting displays.
• Purple Sensation: Reliable, early-flowering, and strikingly vibrant, these are the ultimate purple alliums for beginners. Typically reaching 3-feet (90 cm) high with vibrant violet flower heads that can manage dimensions of 4 inches (10 cm) across.
• Star of Persia: This explosive allium, reaching 2-feet (60 cm) tall, creates metallic lilac starbursts that look just as wonderful dried. Star of Persia (A. cristophii) has a looser, airy form but looks breathtaking in cottage garden beds and relaxed borders.
• Drumstick Allium: These compact, slender egg-shaped flowers may only reach a couple of inches in diameter but their jewel tones are utterly sublime. Drumstick Allium (A. sphaerocephalon) colors shift from green to bright pink and burgundy, and look stunning as part of meadow-style plantings and naturalistic gardens.

Growing Alliums in Containers

It might seem extraordinary to suggest it, given their considerable structural density and ponderous floral loads, but you absolutely can grow alliums in pots, although it isn’t ideal or preferred. You need a cold dormancy period and plenty of light to promote healthy bulbs. But if you choose the correct container depth and soil drainage, it is possible to enjoy alliums in container gardens. You have to select compact allium varieties, however. Plant at the same depth in containers as you would in the ground and make sure your alliums grow in full sun containers.

Suitable compact allium varieties include golden garlic or lily leek (A. moly) or drumstick alliums (A. sphaerocephalon). These can both be cultivated in generous containers, as long as their core sunshine and drainage needs are met. Use a deep pot (at least 12 inches / 30 cm) for medium to large allium varieties. Use a gritty, well-drained compost mix (half potting soil, half perlite or sand), and make sure your container has excellent drainage to support long lasting and vibrant plant varieties. Add a little extra horticultural grit or sand if needed.

Water moderately in spring and summer, during active growth and flowering. Start watering more sparingly once foliage dies back and cut back again after flowering fades. Make sure you store the container in a cool, sheltered, dry place over winter to protect the bulbs from repeated freezing and thawing. Bulbs in pots are more susceptible to freezing temperatures and will need some form of winter protection.

Overwintering Alliums

Alliums are hardy across most of the US and can usually overwinter in the ground. You don’t necessarily need special measures to keep most allium bulb varieties going into the new growing year, which is great news for more forgetful gardeners. As with the rest of the growing year, you just need to make sure that there is excellent drainage through the winter months in order to prevent bulb rot. When overwintering in USDA zones 4–5, you can apply a light mulch of straw or shredded leaves after the ground freezes to protect bulbs.

Move any container-grown allium bulbs to a sheltered spot such as an unheated garage to prevent freeze-thaw damage to your allium bulbs when winters are likely to be severe. Alternatively, if you think your zone is borderline, you can keep pots in a safe place outside as long as you insulate pots and place them in a spot that is nestled against cold winter extremes, such as a protected wall or frost-free porch.

Propagating Alliums

Alliums are perennials so you can leave your spent plants in the ground in most regions (or in a safe place in a container) and they should return the following year. However, if you would like to cultivate more alliums, there are a couple of plant propagation methods available. You can encourage more alliums from seed, either by encouraging self-seeding in the garden, or by propagating from seed under glass. Just bear in mind that this mode of propagation is only suitable for species alliums, not named cultivars.

Propagating from seed is a slow method, but satisfying. Bear in mind that seeds require a period of cold stratification to germinate. Sow seeds in trays of seed-starting compost in fall, then place them outside or in a cold frame so they experience some winter chill (and mimic winter dormancy in ground). Sow in trays of seed compost, cover lightly, and keep in a cold frame until germinated. Go for something sturdy with good airflow and optimal sunlight, like the HappyGrill Wooden Cold Frames from Amazon, with adjustable shelves and multiple access panels. Seed-grown alliums can take 2–3 years to bloom.

The easiest and most reliable way to grow more alliums is to grow from bulbs. These can be divided every 3-4 years to alleviate overcrowding. This is best done when the plant is dormant (in late summer or early fall). Dig up mature clumps in fall, gently separate the smaller offsets (the baby bulbs) from the parent bulbs, and then replant the divisions promptly. This rejuvenates your allium collection, refreshes bulb and root growth, and also helps to maintain strong flowering.

Common Allium Problems

Once established, you shouldn’t need to worry about that many allium pests and problems. As already pointed out, you won’t have to fret about deer or rodents, since they are repelled by the pungent onion smell. There are just a few issues to keep a watchful eye out for in order to ensure that your developing plants stay healthy:

• Onion Fly: This pest (Delia antiqua) appears as maggot-style larvae that feed on the roots and bulbs, causing plants to wilt or collapse from below. They’re likely to strike in damp springs or where onions and garlic have grown recently. Rotate crops yearly, and protect newly planted bulbs with floating row covers, such as Hortifan Pest Protection Floating Row Covers from Amazon. These can block adult flies from laying eggs. Remove infested bulbs promptly to prevent spread.
• Slugs and Snails: Molluscs can nibble on emerging shoots in early spring, leaving ragged holes or stunted growth. They thrive in cool, wet weather: Use barriers or slug traps such as beer pubs around young shoots to manage pest numbers. Try garlic solutions to keep slugs at bay, or encourage natural predators like frogs and ground beetles. Avoid overwatering or heavy mulching early in the season.
• Bulb Rot: This occurs when bulbs sit in poorly drained, soggy soil. Affected bulbs become soft, discolored, and may emit a sour smell. It is caused by overwatering or poor drainage, and presents as fungal pathogens such as fusarium or botrytis. To reduce the risks of bulb rot, always plant bulbs in well-draining soil or raised beds, and avoid overwatering. Mix in some coarse sand or grit when planting, and never reuse soil from rotted bulbs. Remove affected plants to prevent spread.
• Rust and Mildew: Rust appears as orange or brown pustules on leaves. Mildew forms a gray coating that weakens foliage. Both flourish in humid, overcrowded plantings with poor airflow. Space alliums generously and water at the base to keep leaves dry. Dispose of infected foliage (not on the compost heap). Encouraging good airflow and rotating planting sites can prevent reinfection. Apply neem oil foliar sprays like Bonide Captain Jack’s Ready-To-Use Neem Spray from Amazon, or use a homemade neem oil spray as an antifungal agent.

Allium Companion Plants

While you’re turning your garden into a living fireworks display, give some thought to the best plants to grow alongside your alliums. While they can look dominating, they make lovely team players in beds and borders. What’s more, the right plant partners can disguise early leaf dieback. Select leafy plants and perennials to pair with your spring bulbs to mask fading leaves, plus those that complement their bold colors:

• Nepeta: This silvery, aromatic foliage softens the vertical lines of allium stems, creating a romantic, layered effect. Catmint continues blooming after they fade. Buy ‘Pink Cat’ Nepeta Seeds from Amazon.
• Salvia: Drought-tolerant and pollinator-friendly, salvias thrive in the same conditions for seamless continuity. Buy Outsidepride’s ‘Blue Monday’ Seeds from Amazon for an arresting counterpoint.
• Roses: A lush pairing, as rounded alliums highlight velvety rose forms while helping to deter aphids. Buy ‘At Last’ Hybrid Tea Rose from Nature Hills for a gorgeous peachy complement to potent tones.
• Cranesbill: Hardy geranium makes an excellent living mulch and covers the space well as allium foliage dies back. Create months of color with long-blooming varieties like ‘Rozanne’ Geranium Hardy Cranesbill Perennials from Amazon.
• Lavender: The allium’s herbal twin, lavender, echoes its colors while extending the season. They are natural companions in a serene tapestry that hums with bees in summer. Buy Provence Lavender from Amazon for intense color saturation.
• Hostas: In part shade, hostas’ broad, lush leaves hide the fading foliage of alliums and provide a cool contrast. Pairing the two ensures your planting looks fresh and intentional. I love ‘Earth Angel’ Hosta from Nature Hills with its soft blue notes.
• Ornamental Grasses: Stipa and pennisetum bring movement and texture to the allium’s bold geometry. Airy Stipa tenuissima catches the light, while Pennisetum alopecuroides adds rhythm. Buy Pennisetum ‘Jamalaya’ from Nature Hills for soft, sweeping bronze tones.

Frequently Asked Questions

Allium Quiz

Allium Care Essentials

Alliums are the definition of low effort, high reward – and in many ways, they are a gardener’s secret weapon. If you haven’t grown an allium, ornamental onion displays are stunningly sculptural, yet almost effortless to cultivate. As you embark on your allium adventure, just make sure you have these key planting essentials to hand:

• Use a reliable soil meter like the Yamron 4-In-1 Soil Meter from Amazon, which can help test soil pH levels, moisture and light levels, and nutrient loads ahead of planting – and help you decide on any soil amendments to help alliums flourish.
• Plant your allium bulbs comfortably and at speed by using the Garden Weasel Long Handle Bulb Planter 91350 from Amazon, especially effective in heavier, less yielding soils and deeper beds.
• Boost allium root growth with a phosphorus-rich bulb fertilizer such as Espoma Organic Bulb-Tone from Amazon, applied at the time of planting and again after bloom to keep your alliums coming back strong.
• Use an organic mulch such as Back to the Roots Organic Mulch with Natural Wood, available from Amazon to manage moisture levels, suppress weeds, keep roots cool, and regulate soil temperatures.
• Tackle some of the worst effects of mildew with a swift, repeat application of Bonide Captain Jack’s Ready-To-Use Neem Oil Spray from Amazon (or similar organic control).
• Deadhead spent flowers you don’t want to leave standing for visual interest, using the Spear & Jackson CuttingSet8 Traditional Bypass & Anvil Secateur Set from Amazon, to help with precision cuts that cause minimal damage to plants.

Once you grow these bold orbs, it’ll be hard to imagine your garden without them. They may be part of the onion family, but these bulbs are anything but ordinary. Plant a handful this fall, and next spring you’ll be greeted by a galaxy of globe-tastic blooms.

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!