Wax-covered amaryllis bulbs are a popular holiday plant because of their ease of care. Just set the amaryllis bulb in a warm, bright location and wait for the colorful blooms to emerge. Everything the plant needs is encased within the wax.

But after flowering is finishes, the question arises, “Will a waxed amaryllis rebloom?” Typically, waxed bulbs are tossed at the end of the blooming period. But with careful follow-up care after flowering, you can get an amaryllis to rebloom – even one that's encased in wax.

When all the blooms fade, there are a few simple amaryllis care tips to follow that will ensure you have years of beautiful blooms. After years of growing (and reblooming amaryllis bulbs) I've laid out exactly how to do it, step-by-step. Here's what to do with an amaryllis in wax after it blooms and get it to flower again next holiday season.

1. Remove Wax & Encourage Growth

A waxed amaryllis bulb after blooming is totally spent and needs to regenerate roots as well as carbohydrates so it can bloom again. The first thing to do immediately after blooming is to carefully peel off the wax from around the bulb. Be extra cautious in case there are new roots growing that may be embedded in the wax. Also, remove any wire that was inserted to make the bulb stand up on its own.

When the wax is all gone, inspect the bulb for dark or sunken areas that could indicate disease. Discard any amaryllis bulbs that are rotting or showing signs of disease. If you don’t see any roots, you can encourage new roots by setting the bulb on a folded, moist paper towel on a flat surface, like a shallow dish or tray. Set the tray near a window and keep the paper towel moist until roots develop, typically about four to six weeks.

When roots are about 3 inches (8 cm) long, repot your amaryllis in a container that is about 2 inches (5 cm) wider than the bulb and has drainage holes. Use an all-purpose potting soil, like this one from Miracle-Gro, and keep the neck of the bulb above the soil. When you water, avoid getting water in the center of the bulb, where stems emerge.

Keep the plant watered and in full sunlight so the bulb can revitalize. You can move your amaryllis outside for the summer after the threat of frost is past. Only fertilize amaryllis plants once leaves are growing. Apply a slow-release fertilizer (NPK 10-10-10), like this balanced granular plant food from Amazon, every three months or as recommended on the fertilizer package. Or you can try a liquid houseplant fertilizer, like this one from Miracle-Gro that's specifically for blooming houseplants. Only apply it monthly or as suggested on the package.

2. Force Dormancy

To make an amaryllis bulb enter dormancy, stop feeding and watering your plant in late summer or early fall. Your plant needs this period of rest to regain strength for another holiday or winter bloom.

When the soil is dry, move your amaryllis plant in its container to a closet or other cool, dark location for 10 to 12 weeks. Remove the leaves as they fade.

3. Bring It Back to Bloom

To force new amaryllis flowers indoors, you need to bring your plant out of dormancy in early winter. After 12 weeks of dormancy – or sooner if it begins to show signs of growth – move your amaryllis back into bright light and begin watering.

In about four to six weeks, new leaves should emerge, followed by bloom stalks. Sometimes the bloom stalk emerges first, then the leaves. When the amaryllis begins to bloom, you can move it to a cooler area out of direct sun and the flowers will last longer.

After the blooms fade, you can cut off the stalk close to the base. But let the leaves continue to grow. You can start the process all over again by watering and fertilizing the plant and moving it outside for the summer after the threat of frost has passed.

Do Waxed Amaryllis Bulbs Always Rebloom?

Sometimes a waxed bulb is so spent it simply cannot gather enough carbohydrates to bloom again in the winter. If this is the case, you may end up with an amaryllis with leaves and no flowers. If that happens, keep caring for it and it should bloom next year.

Bringing greenery inside for the holidays is a beautiful and traditional way to decorate. It’s a promise through the cold, dark winter that life will return again in spring. But you don’t have to get mired down in tradition. This year, try a new way to bring festive greenery into your home: kokedama.

Making kokedama moss balls is an excellent way to get creative with holiday plants. Kokedama is a Japanese practice of wrapping sheets of moss and twine around the root ball of a plant so it can be hung for display. You can also display your plant on a saucer or tray if you don’t have a place to hang it. And using small kokedama succulents is a stunning way to decorate your Christmas tree.

There are many plants suitable for kokedama. Here are four that will make a gorgeous display this holiday season.

Kokedama Plants Perfect for Christmas

Making kokedama can seem a bit daunting, but there is no wrong way to do it! You can make it easy on yourself by purchasing a premade kokedama hanging moss planter, like this one from Amazon. Or you can go the traditional route with sheets of live moss and a spool of natural jute twine, both available from Amazon.

Kokedama moss balls are easy to care for. Simply soak the whole planted moss ball in a bowl of water for 20 minutes when the moss becomes dry, or once a week. Gently squeeze out excess water and let the plant and moss drain for a little while in the sink before hanging back up.

1. Poinsettia

Nothing quite says Christmas like a vibrant poinsettia in the house. Bright red, pink, or white poinsettias will all look lovely against the green kokedama moss balls. Hang smaller kokedama poinsettias or place larger ones on a decorative tray for a gorgeous centerpiece on your holiday table. A kokedama poinsettia will also brighten your entryway and greet guests on a console table.

2. Anthurium

Anthuriums, with their bold red spathes, will add a pop of festive color to your holiday decor. Anthurium plants like bright, indirect light so this kokedama plant will do best near a window that has a sheer covering. To avoid root rot, only soak your kokedama anthurium once the moss ball is fully dry.

3. Amaryllis

Amaryllis blooms brighten even the darkest of winter days and are a fabulous way to add holiday cheer to any home. Up your game by turning a traditional amaryllis bulb into a gorgeous kokedama display. You can hang your kokedama amaryllis in a bright, sunny window for the best blooms, but make sure you keep an eye on the moisture levels since the sun will dry it out faster.

4. Red Bromeliad

There are many different colors of bromeliad plants, but I love a bright red for the holiday season. Display your glorious kokedama bromeliad in bright, diffuse light. Keep your bromeliad moist, but not soggy for the best results in a dry, winter household. You can also use a plant mister spray bottle, like this one from Amazon, to help keep things hydrated.

Festive Kokedama Essentials

Get creative and change up your holiday greenery with unique kokedama plants. I’ll be trying my hand at it this Christmas season!

Amaryllis is a popular flowering plant during the winter holidays. It is easy to grow the first time around, and it produces large, trumpet-shaped blooms that bring plenty of "oohs" and "ahhs" from visitors. But the prospect of forcing a second bloom cycle brings a cold chill to many who contemplate the task. But it is possible to keep your Amaryllis blooming year after year.

I think I have finally mastered the process of reblooming an Amaryllis. The main issue is keeping an eye on the calendar so you know when to move it outdoors, when to bring it back inside for dormancy, and when to wake it up again. I have found, too, that fertilizing the bulb while it is outside for the summer is important. I tend to forget fertilizing plants, so the first time I attempted to rebloom an Amaryllis, it didn’t get any fertilizer, and I didn’t get a second bloom.

I have several now that I put through the paces each summer, and last year, for example, four out of five rebloomed. One even flowered in December and again in July!

My Tips To Restore Your Amaryllis Flowers

My first tip for growing Amaryllis is to buy a couple new plants after Christmas when they are 50 to 75 percent off. Those have usually started growing in the box, so pick the ones that aren’t completely covered by cardboard and are getting light.

Since I have several by summertime, I plant Amaryllis outdoors to see if it will come up the next spring. Those who live in USDA zones 8 and above can successfully grow an Amaryllis in the ground for a show each spring.

I have been experimenting with the process for several years now, and this is how to get your Amaryllis to bloom again.

What to Do With Amaryllis After Flowering

Once the blooms have faded on your Amaryllis, cut the blooms off so it does not go to seed (which will hinder bulb regeneration). Do not remove the rest of the stalk because as long as it is green it will help with photosynthesis. Move the pot to a sunny window and continue to water when the top of the soil feels dry. The idea is to keep it going until it warms up outside (no freezes expected) and you can move it out. It will continue to produce leaves indoors. If the leaves fade and turn yellow, do not worry. Just pull or clip them off and new ones will grow.

When all chances of a freeze are gone, move it outside to a sunny patio. To prevent foliage burn, start out in a partly shady area first, then gradually increase the light to full sun by the end of the week. If the foliage starts showing white spots, move it back to a shadier spot for another week.

Keep it watered as the soil dries, and remember, in warmer climates, you will need to water containers more often outside than when it was inside. Start fertilizing your Amaryllis, too. I add slow release, balanced fertilizer granules such as 10-10-10 to the container, following the package directions for how much and how often. I generally apply it about two times during the summer but it depends on how many months the Amaryllis is outside before you bring it back indoors. Instead of slow release, you also can use an all purpose houseplant fertilizer every month according to directions. You can find a good 10-10-10 fertilizer on Amazon or your local garden center.

Keep watering until it is time to bring the Amaryllis inside for a dormancy period if you want to force it to bloom during winter. In my USDA zone 6 garden, I bring it indoors toward the end of August to overwinter the Amaryllis. That gives it about a 12-week dormancy period and another 4 to 6 weeks to bloom. Be sure you bring it in before the first frost, though, because it will not survive a freeze.

To force dormancy, quit watering a few days before you bring it inside so it isn’t wet. Bring it indoors and store it in a dry, warm, dark place such as a closet. Plan on leaving it there for 10 to 12 weeks, and mark your calendar so you don’t forget the bulb. It will take another 4 to 6 weeks after that before it blooms so figure that in if you want it to bloom by December. I am just as happy with January flowering as it brightens up a dreary time of winter.

What to Do With Amaryllis During Dormancy

While the Amaryllis bulb is stored, do not water the pot. (I have read that if storage space is an issue, you can remove the bulb from the pot, store it, then repot the Amaryllis with a good soil when you bring it out.) Find a unique an beautiful pot for your Amaryllis from Terrain.

Check the pot every few weeks to remove any foliage that has died back. That is all you need to do until the 12 weeks are up. If you notice new growth before 12 weeks have passed, go ahead and bring it out.

Bringing it Back to Flower

To initiate blooms, after 12 weeks, bring the potted Amaryllis back into the light and start watering again. Give it as much light as possible, such as in a south-facing window. When the bloom stalk emerges, you can move it to a cooler location so the flowers will last longer.

I have noticed with the first bloom cycle after purchasing a bulb, the flower stalk comes up first, then the leaves. However, when reblooming an Amaryllis, just the opposite occurs. The leaves come up first, then the bloom stalks. So do not be alarmed if you see leaves first. The stalk and leaves also may come up at the same time.

You can add fertilizer after bringing it out of storage, but I have not done so, and they have been blooming.

If it doesn’t flower and you want to try again next summer, you can use a different fertilizer or add it more often. Also, be sure it is getting full sun and adequate water during its summer outdoors.

Keeping This Going Year After Year

You can continue the cycle of moving your Amaryllis in and out for years. They don’t mind being a little rootbound, so don’t be in a hurry to repot to a larger container. The bulbs will multiply, though, so when that happens, you may need a larger container. It is best to repot after a dormancy period.

When it is necessary to repot, use a commercial potting soil, with some added perlite to help drainage. Carefully remove the bulb and shake off excess soil. Add potting soil to the bottom of the new container and add the bulb, making sure the top of the bulb will be 20 to 30 percent above the soil line. Fill in with potting soil and water well.

With their rapid growth and ease of care, amaryllis is ideal for growing indoors through the holiday season and winter weeks. Traditional red amaryllis flowers remain popular for adding a bright burst of color to mantelpieces, dinner tables, patios and conservatories. They are certainly some of the most vibrant types of amaryllis you can keep.

A plant that’s well-suited to inside decor, potted amaryllis plants are commonly incorporated into tablescapes and festive windowsills where they are able to receive ample light. After the holidays are over, many have the potential to keep delighting through the chilly months. But how does one go about choosing the best red amaryllis bulbs for forcing through winter? Here are some of the most common red amaryllis varieties you can keep and cultivate.

Choosing the Best Red Amaryllis Varieties

Though red amaryllis plants will grow readily indoors, some varieties may be better suited than others. When growing bulbs for the first time, you should look for species that are recommended for forcing. These types of red amaryllis are often praised for both their early bloom time and prolific production of flowers. For anyone looking to grow amaryllis that stay at their best for as long as possible, buy large, firm bulbs at planting time to ensure the best floral displays. Other characteristics to consider include the overall size of the plant at maturity, flower form and likelihood of rebloom.

1. Cherry Nymph

Blooming in as little as eight weeks, Cherry Nymph is one the best giant red amaryllis for growth through the holiday season and also amongst the best winter flowers for pots once the holidays end. Growers can expect strong, sturdy stems, capable of holding multiple flowers each. The plant's beauty is further enhanced by its fully-double form, opening to reveal an abundance of highly-saturated red petals.

2. Desire

Desire amaryllis are known for their bright orange-red color. Large, single flowers are held high above stems, evoking a sense of joy and adding vibrancy to indoor spaces. As each bulb will begin blooming eight-ten weeks from planting, this variety is a good choice for holiday porch plants and beyond, so you can enjoy the beauty of amaryllis throughout the winter season. Especially tall plants may require staking.

3. Double Dragon

Prized for their true-red tones, Double Dragon amaryllises always garner attention for anyone after fancy flowers other than poinsettias as striking seasonal bloomers. Compact plants that are ideal for use in containers, these perform well through the holidays. Displays can often continue through the new year due to their impressive long-lived blooms. Each flower has a double habit, allowing for a fuller, ruffled look.

4. Double King

Another attractive double-form type, Double King is known for its flower production. Gardeners can expect large numbers of blooms, often more than four per stem, so you might need to stake amaryllis plants. Bright red flowers take on a more formal appearance, with petals demonstrating consistent arrangement and symmetry. Staggered bloom further extends floral displays, persisting well over several weeks.

5. Ferrari

True to its name, Ferrari remains a favorite of those in search of rapid growth. Those planting the variety for the first time can expect flowers in as little as five-six weeks, making them ideal for use in holiday decor and gifting. For anyone looking for giant amaryllis varieties, this plant produces large, single blooms which unfurl to reveal brilliant shades of cardinal red with prominent yellow stamens.

6. Mandela

Mandela amaryllis are most noted for their deep burgundy tones and soft, velvet appearance. Their ease of care and beauty in home decor further lends to their popularity as some of the best winter indoor plants over the holidays and beyond, with many opting to plant this fast-growing type. As the buds set early, most bulbs will begin to open in as little as five-six weeks from planting.

7. Royal Velvet

Inspired by its lush appearance and maroon flowers, Royal Velvet amaryllis is unmatched in color. Large yellow stamens contrast against deep burgundy petals, giving each bloom added depth and dimension. Its flowers persist through the holiday season, opening over several weeks. Their small stature and compact growth habit further lend themselves to indoor growth and use in holiday decor.

8. Red Lion

Rated among the best traditional types for holiday varieties with real staying power into the depths of winter, Red Lion offers impressive red amaryllis flower color and hardiness. This variety is highly productive, with each plant producing multiple stems per bulb. Though it’s suited for the holiday season, an early start is essential, as each will require at least 12 weeks from planting before they bloom.

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Amaryllis is a popular flowering bulb that’s typically grown indoors and forced to bloom in winter. The large, striking flowers that sit atop tall, straight stems bring cheer in the colder months. Traditionally, we tend to see lots of red types of amaryllis on display in windowsills and dining arrangements. However, new varieties of white amaryllis plants are changing the picture, both during the holidays and over winter.

Show the right amaryllis care and these winter beauties are easy to grow. Provide good potting soil, regular water and bright, indirect light, and the bulb will grow and bloom. You can even keep the bulbs dormant and get them to bloom again the following year. Here are some of the great new white amaryllis plant types to try for something a little different during the chillier months of the year.

Choosing the Best White Amaryllis Varieties

For lovers of white flowers to grow, the good news is that white amaryllis flowers are becoming easier to find, with new varieties available all the time. You can find white mixed with other colors, double white amaryllis flowers, and more besides.

In addition to variations of coloring and petal type, white amaryllis bulbs differ in how many stems and flowers they develop, how productively they bloom, and even their size. Here are some great ideas to get you started forcing bulbs this winter.

1. White Amadeus

White Amadeus is another double-petalled amaryllis variety. The white is a little creamier and less pure white than Akiko's coloring. The flowers are very large with a little bit of green in the center. For anyone familiar with pink amaryllis varieties, Amadeus Candy is a similar variety with a blush of deep raspberry pink on the tips of the otherwise white petals. White Amadeus may have just a touch of pink on the tips. Both have flowers that can be as big as 10 inches (25cm) across.

2. Akiko

Like most amaryllis bulbs grown in indoor containers, Akiko belongs to the Hippeastrum genus, a group of flowers native to South America. Akiko is one of the purest white of all varieties with a touch of green in the throat of the flower. These are large, doubled-petalled blooms. Each bulb produces at least two stems with four flowers each. These striking white flowers make gorgeous winter indoor plants and look pretty alone or mixed with darker or brighter red amaryllis.

3. Mont Blanc

Another pure white stunner, Mont Blanc is a single-petalled white amaryllis flower with slightly ruffled edges and a pale, lime green center. The flowers are trumpet-shaped and look more like lilies than many other varieties. Each bulb produces multiple blooms on sturdy stems. If you love unusual cutting garden arrangements, these blooms make excellent cut flowers for ornamental displays.

4. White Garden

For a single-petalled variety with pristine white flowers touched by a little green in the throat, you can't go wrong with White Garden. This is a multiflora type, with each bulb producing more than one stem and multiple flowers. While the double-petalled white amaryllis varieties, like bearded white iris varieties, are showy and striking, the clean lines of this single-petalled amaryllis are very elegant. The flowers are smaller than those of many other varieties, at just about five inches (13cm) across.

5. Arctic Nymph

Nymph is a group of varieties developed to reliably produce large, double-petalled flowers on very sturdy stems. These properties have made them as popular as many high yield flowers, and they now come in different colors. The original Nymph is mostly white with pink stripes. Bright Nymph is similar to the original but with darker pink or red stripes. White Nymph is pure white, while Arctic Nymph has a snowy cast and a green throat.

6. Christmas Gift

Christmas Gift is another single-petalled variety but with bigger blooms, up to seven or eight inches (18-20cm) across. This breed is a highly impressive choice if you are after holiday amaryllis varieties to grow. The stems are tall and sturdy enough to hold the large flowers, growing up to 25 inches (64cm). As well as being a great holiday gift, this white amaryllis makes a pretty addition to holiday décor and blooms reliably.

7. Picotee

This is a uniquely colored amaryllis. It's single-petaled and pure white, with delicate red or pink edges. The colored margins are very thin as if drawn on by a fine point marker. They may have a little blush of pink in the middle of the petals as well. The flowers are four or five inches (10-13cm) wide.

8. Blossom Peacock

For growers who adore pink flowers as well as whites, choose Blossom Peacock for a little more pink with your white amaryllis. The double petals are mostly white with rosy, pink edges. They are not as full or dense as some double-petalled varieties, but this gives Blossom Peacock a more elegant look. Each amaryllis bulb produces two or three stems with up to six flowers each.

With its vibrant color and enchanting bloom, an amaryllis is a much-welcomed addition to indoor spaces. This is especially true through the holiday season, and winter, when these plants are most commonly forced into flower. Giant amaryllis varieties are of special interest, due to their general ease of growth and magnificent floral displays. But, what does it take to grow your own potted specimens? In this guide, we will take a closer look at selecting your own bulbs and how to care for the giant amaryllis.

Choosing the Best Giant Amaryllis Varieties

In general, the term “giant” amaryllis plant is used to refer to the size of bulbs. Giant or jumbo sizes are among the largest available to growers. With holiday amaryllis varieties, the bulb size will correlate directly to the production of flowers and the overall size of forced plants, so you can expect larger bulbs to yield the greatest number of stems and flowers.

Though their blooms can vary, these amaryllis will generally result in the growth of at least 2-3 flower stems, producing multiple buds each. In addition to size, gardeners should consider color and weeks to maturity when selecting varieties that best suit their needs.

1. Luna Jumbo

Luna Jumbo remains among the best giant amaryllis bulbs if you’re in search of crisp color. Its large flowers open in groups of four, each petal ranging in pristine shades of chartreuse and white. Single flowers lend themselves well to formal decor, allowing for a more modern, clean aesthetic. The plants grow quickly, bursting to bloom in as little as 4-5 weeks from planting. This makes the variety ideal for use throughout the holiday season and in gifting.

2. Pink Rival Jumbo

Unmatched in terms of color, Pink Rival Jumbo amaryllis plants will dazzle guests with their striking magenta hues. Its pink blooms open quickly, with single flowers spanning approximately 7 in. (18 cm) across. These plants are well-suited to forcing throughout the holiday season, provided the bulbs are given an early start. Though the variety is most traditionally grown indoors, outdoor gardeners have found amaryllis care possible in USDA zones 8-10.

3. Red Pearl Jumbo

Red Pearl Jumbo is most treasured for its striking black-burgundy color. Single red petals unfurl to reveal attractive, velvety throats and yellow stamens. Expect jumbo bulbs of this type to produce multiple stems, each with even larger clusters of flowers. These plants will generally begin to bloom approximately 8-12 weeks from planting, making the variety a good choice for extending the flowering period of potted amaryllis plants through winter.

4. Rose Quartz

Found throughout the holiday season, Rose Quartz remains among the most favored pink giant amaryllis flowers. With jumbo-sized bulbs, it will dependably produce 2-3 flower spikes, each maturing in as little as 7-9 weeks from planting. Compact plants are ideal for use in tablescapes and holiday decor, adding a warm festive feel to gatherings.

5. Stardust Jumbo

The Stardust Jumbo amaryllis has a unique, candy-like coloration. Its flowers open to reveal crisp white petals, streaked with brilliant red-pink markings. Since this variety will bloom approximately 7-9 weeks from planting, it’s a good choice for enlivening indoor spaces throughout the holidays. Gardeners have also found success maintaining the plant outdoors throughout USDA zones 8-10.

6. Terra Cotta Star Jumbo

Terra Cotta Star Jumbo amaryllis are beloved for their soft, pastel tones. Blooming in as little as 7-9 weeks, delicate single flowers are held high atop sturdy stems. Though these plants may benefit from additional support, it is only seldom required.

Like other holiday types, forced plants like amaryllis can be allowed to grow throughout the remainder of winter to encourage them to rebloom.

Pink amaryllis plants aren’t quite as common as the red varieties but they are equally glorious. Amaryllis are common winter gift plants due to their propensity to bloom during the holidays and beyond. The pink amaryllis is just one hue of these lovely blooms. There are over 600 amaryllis flower varieties in tones of red, pink, white, salmon, rose and more.

The pink amaryllis plant stems from a large bulb. The bigger the bulb, the larger and more numerous the blooms. While not winter hardy outdoors, in warmer climates you can enjoy pink amaryllis bulbs in the garden or grown in containers. Here are eight gorgeous varieties for pots and planting.

Choosing the Best Pink Amaryllis Varieties

There are many pink amaryllis bulbs. Many of these are bi-colored and feature two complimenting hues. Of these, the pink and white amaryllis is the most common type, although there are flowers that boast various tones of pink.

These bulbs are known to last up to 40 years with good care and are often passed down to the next generation. For anyone keen on growing and caring for amaryllis plants, the pink amaryllis flower will provide elegant exotica for a week or more before flowers are spent and only the arching, strappy foliage remains.

1. Belladonna Lily

The Belladonna pink amaryllis plant produces soft pink, fragrant flowers. They are also called Naked Lady due to the lack of leaves on the stems leading up to the big blooms. Not all amaryllis are scented, but Belladonna’s trumpet-like flowers exude an aroma of floral fruitiness. If you can get amaryllis to rebloom, the stems can produce up to 12 flowers each. They are not frost-hardy and should be lifted if grown outdoors.

2. Pink Surprise

This is a bold pink variety. Its petals are the color of a slightly under-ripe watermelon, sporting magenta veins and anthers tipped with white. It stems from a jumbo bulb that will produce two-three stalks with four large flowers per stem. They are hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 9-10 for outdoor amaryllis growing, but are more commonly grown as houseplants where they will produce blooms 8-12 weeks after planting.

3. Blushing Bride

Blushing Bride has 15-inch (40cm) tall stems topped with lovely rosy pink flowers with darker pink veins. Each flower measures up to seven inches (18cm) across. The center has an appealing light green eye with large anthers in cream. This South African beauty can be forced to bloom in just five weeks, producing long-lasting flowers.

4. Sweet Star

Sweet Star blooms with cotton candy pink flowers. The petals seem to glow and have a yellowish-green throat from which bursts the creamy anthers. The bulb will produce two-three short, stout stems, each with four or more flowers. For anyone looking to grow pastel flowering plants, these luminous pastel flowers span six inches (15cm) across. Plant in November for flowers across the holidays and beyond.

5. Rosetta (Rozetta)

Rosetta is a truly outstanding double variety with rose-pink petals with a cream streak down the center. The flower throat is creamy green and has white anthers. For lovers of pink flowers, these blooms are full, lush and rosy. Flowering stems get up to 14 inches (35cm) tall topped with six-inch (15cm) wide blooms. In warm soil, the bulbs can be forced to bloom in as little as 4-6 weeks.

6. Aphrodite

Aphrodite is a pink and white amaryllis. The petals are white and adorned with salmon pink edges and soft brushes of blush pink across. This is a full double with slightly wavy edges and a bright green center that shows nicely against the pastel petals. Named for the goddess of beauty, the plant is a show-stopper with flowers that can last weeks.

7. Gervase

Gervase is almost two-faced with one side of the flower salmon pink and the other white with pink veins. The actual arrangement of the coloring is individual to each bloom. This is a single variety with very large flowers that may grow up to 24 inches (60cm) in height. Expect three stems with up to 12 flowers, 6-12 weeks after planting.

8. Rosy Star

A single-petal pink amaryllis plant, Rosy Star has pastel pink and white petals on flowers that are up to nine inches (23cm) across. The throat is lime green with striking white anthers. Hardy in USDA zones 8-12, these bulbs also perform beautifully as flowering houseplants in containers indoors. The bulb will produce three stems, each with up to five flowers. Expect blooming five weeks after planting.

Holiday decorations and displays add easy cheer to the home, but before we get all relaxed and merry, it’s worth sparing a thought for our resident pets. You may adore seeing festive red blooms brightening up your windowsills and mantelpieces – but are amaryllis plants poisonous to cats?

Christmas is a popular time to get seasonal houseplants like amaryllis or poinsettia, but many cats like to chew on plants. If you decide to grow amaryllis, it may be particularly attractive to cats if flowers and leaves are positioned at mouth level. A few nibbles on many houseplants is not a big concern, but is amaryllis dangerous for cats? You may already have taken steps to cat-proof your houseplants, but here we show you how to best protect your pets from these festive favorites.

Is Amaryllis Toxic to Cats?

If you have cats and want to use festive houseplants during the holidays, it’s worth asking: is amaryllis toxic to cats? Perhaps you don’t know which plants are toxic to cats and suspect that this holiday favorite may be risky for feline friends? Unfortunately, the answer is that yes, they can be. Amaryllis plants contain chemicals called alkaloids and oxalates which cause gastric distress and some other symptoms in both cats and dogs.

All parts of amaryllis plants contain these harmful compounds, but they are most concentrated in the bulb. This is true of several holiday amaryllis varieties that you might be keeping indoors during the festive period. While they are not as toxic as some other plants (like lilies), eating any amount of amaryllis could make your pet sick – and large amounts could be fatal.

Signs of Amaryllis Poisoning in Cats

Amaryllis poisoning causes several symptoms. They vary depending on how much a cat has consumed. A small amount of amaryllis may just cause some oral irritation and drooling. Larger amounts can cause the following symptoms, so watch for:

• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Loss of appetite
• Lethargy
• Depression
• Tremors
• Drop in blood pressure (hypotension)
• Respiratory distress.

You may also notice that a plant looks like it has been chewed. Examine the plant to get an idea of how much your pet might have eaten.

What to Do if Your Cat Eats Amaryllis

If you see a few signs of a cat-damaged plant but you are certain that your cat ate only a small amount of the plant and they are not exhibiting alarming symptoms, they might not need any care. Remove the plant to a location they cannot access, remove any plant material from their mouth, and watch your cat carefully for symptoms.

It’s always best, of course, to call your vet for advice if you suspect your cat ate part of a toxic plant. Your vet can determine if they need care. If you have any doubts or cannot reach your vet, call a 24-hour emergency vet or take them there immediately for treatment.

How to Prevent Your Cat From Eating Amaryllis

Prevention is always better than needing emergency care for your furry friend. The best prevention, of course, is to not have toxic houseplants in the home. However, there are some ways to enjoy amaryllis and similar plants while keeping your cat safe.

Find a place where your cat cannot reach the amaryllis. A high place with no access should keep them safe. If you don’t have a place your cat can’t reach, consider placing the plant inside a terrarium. Alternatively, spray the plant with something that tastes bad to cats. You can find these products at pet stores.You could also try growing other cat-repellent plants nearby.

Another option is to train your cats not to eat plants. That said, if you have ever tried to train a cat not to do something, you know that this plan is not foolproof!

Cat-Friendly Alternatives to Amaryllis

If you don’t feel safe with amaryllis in your home over the holidays, consider indoor plants that cats will avoid and so are consequently cat-safe. They may not be traditionally Christmas plants, but they still cheer up the home:

• Gerbera Daisies: These cheerful daisies are excellent houseplants and are totally non-toxic for pets. Get red gerbera daisies for indoor holiday décor as a safe replacement for red amaryllis.
• Orchids: Orchids make great houseplants any time of year and most varieties of orchid are relatively safe for pets. It’s easy to find a variety of orchids at garden centers. Use pure white orchids for seasonal decoration.
• Roses: Roses are cat-safe and pretty at any time of year. For Christmas, consider a potted mini rose. Red rose varieties are especially attractive.

Frequently Asked Questions

Many people use poinsettias to add a dash of color to the home during the holiday season, but what about Christmas flowers other than poinsettias? Like others, I am not overly fond of their unreliable papery bracts, so if you also seek an alternative to poinsettias, you’ve come to the right place. Luckily, there are plenty of poinsettia alternatives that can brighten the holidays, both as gardening gifts and as a way to bring a little of the great outdoors inside. Want to try something new this festive season? Keep reading to learn about alternatives to poinsettias…

Striking Seasonal Poinsettia Alternatives

For some people, poinsettias are a must when decorating for the holidays, but other folks like to spice things up and change their interior decor. For those people who are searching out the most dynamic but also reliable and long-flowering poinsettia alternatives, I present my favorite festive options. Whether you’re looking for something to add the wow factor to a holiday porch or simply a great gifting idea for your holiday wishlist, you’re sure to find something here to brighten the season.

1. Amaryllis

Amaryllis has become the quintessential poinsettia alternative, and a staple flower for the holidays. The bulbs are easily available prior to the season in a multitude of colors. They are rapid growers with large impressive trumpet-shaped flowers, typically blooming 6-12 weeks after planting, depending on variety. For a continuous show, plant several varieties that will enchant you with blooms for months.

When you grow amaryllis, you’ll find these South African natives can also be kept post-bloom as houseplants and then with a little bit of additional care, encouraged to bloom yet again the following season. In fact, I have several that bloom reliably twice a year; once around Christmas time and then again in the early summer.

Look to grow varieties like Winter Watch Double Alfresco, a fabulous double-petaled white bloomer, or classic red Sweet Memories Single Red Lion. If you really want to mix it up and veer from tradition, amaryllis even comes in orange hues, like Orange Sovereign or Naranja.

2. Christmas Rose (Hellebore)

The Christmas rose (Helleborus niger) is a Hellebore variety that can be grown either indoors or outside in USDA zones 5-8. This beautiful evergreen blooms and is often given as gifts during the Christmas holiday season. Look for varieties like Ivory Prince, whose creamy white flowers are dusted with a hint of pink and green.

To grow the Christmas rose (aka the hellebore) as an indoor plant, it is best to move it outdoors once it has bloomed. Keep in a container larger than the root ball, with excellent drainage. Inside, place the plant in a cool area of the home with indirect sun to partial shade. Water only when the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil is dry to the touch. Fertilize monthly during April-September with a balanced houseplant fertilizer.

Proper care of the plant will reward you with beautiful large, white blossoms that can last for up to two weeks. Once the plant blooms, plant it outside in a shaded area with humus-rich, well-draining soil.

3. Cyclamen

Despite their diminutive size, these winter-blooming cuties offer a big splash of color. A tuberous perennial, cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) thrives both as a houseplant and outside as a low-growing plant in USDA zones 9-11. You can grow cyclamen not only for their gorgeous heart-shaped leaves, often adorned with silver, but also for the brilliantly hued blooms of red, pink, purple and white.

These plants are popular choices for winter containers and can keep their charms for weeks in cooler climes. Warm temperatures thrust cyclamen into dormancy, so if you want yours to bloom, keep it in a cooler area of the home in bright but indirect light. Cyclamen should be planted in rich, well-draining, slightly acidic soil. Add some peat moss to regular potting soil.

Water the plant when the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil feels dry to the touch, at the base of the plant. Take care not to wet the leaves. It does like some humidity, so place the container on a saucer filled with pebbles and water.

4. Paperwhite Narcissus

Their delightful aroma alone is enough to warrant forcing narcissus in time for the holidays. Because paperwhites don't require chilling to encourage bloom, they are one of the easiest bulbs to force. Like other narcissus, paperwhite plants may be single or double-petaled. They bloom pure white or a bit creamier, sometimes with yellow cups or even entirely yellow.

Plant paperwhites in a well-draining potting medium with the bulbs pointing up. Place the bulbs close together, yet not touching. Make sure the tips of the bulb are exposed outside of the soil. You can also start these bulbs in gravel, marbles or pebbles rather than soil, with just the root end touching the water. The bulbs will bloom 4-8 weeks from planting.

5. Anthurium

Anthurium is a tropical plant that can be grown in USDA zones 10 and up. As such, they thrive as houseplants and are incredibly ornamental with their glossy, dark green, heart-shaped leaves and brilliantly colored bracts (flowers). Indoors, Anthurium should be placed in bright but indirect light for at least six hours per day. Native to tropical rainforests, they enjoy humidity and should be misted every couple of days or placed on a tray of pebbles and water.

Also known as flamingo flowers, Anthurium plants should be planted in a well-draining, rich soil medium with the root ball just above the soil’s surface. Allow the top inch (2.5 cm) or so of soil to dry out between waterings. Fertilize monthly with a dilute plant food.

6. Christmas Cactus

Christmas cactus is a gorgeous South American epiphyte categorized as a succulent (as it has no thorns). Native to tropical jungles, Christmas cactus makes a perfect houseplant that thrives in standard home temperatures and humidity. With proper care, this plant can reward you with tubular blooms of pink, purple, red, white, orange or even yellow for decades.

A succulent, Christmas cactus should be kept moist but not sodden. Grow in bright (indirect) sunlight and fertile, well-draining soil. When blossoms fade, move the container into a sunny window or outside for the summer in partial shade until temperatures drop, then bring it back into the home.

Frequently Answered Questions

There are hundreds of amaryllis varieties, many of which are hybrids. This popular bulb produces large flowers in exotic hues and forms. They are a common gift plant during the holidays due to their habit of blooming in winter. Selecting an amaryllis type to grow may depend upon availability but there are five main classifications for the bulbs. These are small flowering, trumpet shape, large flowering, double flowering and cybister with spider-like blooms.

Most amaryllis you can grow are only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 8-11 but they can be grown after bloom as foliage plants or the bulb can be lifted after the foliage is allowed to die back. Bring out the bulb the following fall and plant it again for another flowery holiday display.

Choosing the Most Beautiful Amaryllis Varieties

Of the many types of amaryllis, some are real stand-outs. The large blooming amaryllis types are often the most readily available, and their visionary display has a huge impact. But collectors and curious gardeners can get their hands on many other cultivars. You can find bulbs that bloom in red, white, pink, salmon, apricot, burgundy, rose, purple and flowers with bicolor attributes. Alongside poinsettia plants which make incredible holiday decor plants, these amaryllis plants will set off any holiday display in style.

1. Winter Watch Double Alfresco

This is a South African cultivar and boasts huge, almost fluffy, white flowers. The center is a chartreuse eye that is set off beautifully by the creamy petals. The stems will grow 14 inches (36cm) tall and produce six inch (15cm) blooms. The petals of Winter Watch Double Alfresco are double to triple, leading to a very layered appearance.

2. Warmest Welcome Minerva

A light red flowering variety, Minerva’s petals have slashes of white feathering out towards the margins. The throat is lime green in flowers that span seven inches (18cm). The stripes of the Warmest Welcome Minerva amaryllis produces one or two flowering stems of 20 inches (50cm). Each stem will develop three-four flowers within six-ten weeks of planting the bulb. The strappy leaves are elegant even when the blooms have failed.

3. Red Lion

A classic holiday amaryllis, Red Lion has deeply crimson flowers. The anthers are prominent and tipped with white. The eye is darkly green with lime edges. Red Lion is an award winning bulb whose 24 inch (60cm) stems can bear up to six flowers each. While it only has single petals, the bold color of the flowers is well worth growing.

4. Apple Blossom

The flowers on this amaryllis truly have an apple blossom appearance, down to the blushed petals and golden center. The flowers are soft pink with creamy hints. The bulb produces two or three 20 inch (50cm) stems with up to six buds.

5. Double Dancing Queen

Layers of frilled red and white striped flowers look much like petticoats furling out in a twirl. The stems grow up to 15 inches (38cm) with one or two large flowers. An elegant, smaller plant, Dancing Queen provides holiday cheer with its candy-cane like stripes.

6. Butterfly Amaryllis

Hues of maroon, cream and bronze dance across the large flowers. Long creamy anthers and delicately curved petals mimic the form of a butterfly. This is a semi-evergreen hybrid that may bloom twice per year. The 20 inch (50cm) stems may bear up to five flowers which are long lasting. The elegant flowers are artistically appealing, as if hand made.

7. Faro

A glorious apricot-salmon variety, Faro petals are also painted with a creamy center. The eye of the plant is vibrantly green. Faro flowers can grow up to nine inches (23cm) across so you may need to stake the stems of this amaryllis to support the weight of the blooms.

8. Double Dragon

A ferocious contender for top hybrid, Double Dragon has double petals, dark green strappy leaves, and deep red-orange flowers. The petals are subtly striped with a deeper color and the center is bright green. The flowers appear seven-nine weeks after planting for a quicker flower experience than many amaryllis bulbs.

Frequently Asked Questions

Despite being an avid gardener, I have always struggled when it came to growing plants indoors. In my small home, I simply couldn’t find the ideal location to grow healthy houseplants. With only one south-facing window, most plants withered away quickly from a lack of light or improper watering. It wasn’t until I began to explore the idea of forcing flower bulbs that I had my first success with indoor plants. Since that time, my love of growing flower bulbs throughout winter has grown exponentially.

Many different types of flower bulbs can be forced to bloom throughout winter. While plants like narcissus, tulips, or hyacinths will require a period of cold treatment to initiate bloom indoors; some do not. Most popular among these types are amaryllis. Though the genus itself is quite large, finding specimens suitable for forcing is very easy. Bulbs for forcing can be ordered online or found in garden centers each fall, generally before the arrival of the first frost. Fully-forced potted plants, which are in bloom, can also be found throughout much of the winter holiday season at retailers. Over the years, I have enjoyed the process of collecting various cultivars of Amaryllis hippeastrum for forcing in winter. Though most of these plants produce flowers that are a true brilliant red, there are varieties which produce blooms in white and attractive shades of blush pink.

Forcing Amaryllis Bulbs Indoors

The process of forcing amaryllis bulbs is quite simple. Foremost, it is important to look for large, healthy bulbs. When shopping at garden centers, I specifically seek out the most sizable amaryllis bulbs that I can find. In my own experience, larger bulbs have shown to produce robust plants with strong stems and well-branched flowers. To the touch, each bulb should be firm, without any soft spots. Before purchase, I also double check to avoid any signs of mold or other damage that may have been caused by insects or may have occurred during shipping.

Once I have selected my bulbs, I decide when I’ll want the amaryllis to begin blooming. Most cultivars will state the days or weeks to maturity on the plant’s packaging. Counting backwards from the desired bloom date, I can determine my estimated planting date. At this time, I’ll carefully pot up the bulb, making certain that half to one-third of the bulb remains above the soil line of the container. As forced amaryllis bulbs grow best when slightly root bound, I often choose smaller-than-usual containers for their growth, allowing about 1 inch (2.5 cm.) between the edge of the bulb and pot. After planting, I water the bulb well and do not disturb it until the first signs of growth appear.

Throughout the period of growth, the amaryllis container is positioned near a bright window, which allows for indirect light. During this time, I provide additional water as needed, making certain to avoid oversaturated soil. As the plant grows taller, some varieties may require the addition of a carefully placed bamboo stake to ensure that the flower stem remains upright, and that the container does not topple over.

With very little care, forced amaryllis bulbs reward growers with a beautiful, weeks-long display of flowers. After bloom, the bulbs can be preserved to be forced again. I begin this process by removing the flower stem from the plant, after all blooms have faded. During this time, all other foliage should be left intact. Continued watering throughout the duration of the winter season will help to ensure that the bulb remains healthy. After the weather has warmed sufficiently in spring, and all chances of frost have passed, amaryllis pots can be hardened off and moved outdoors.

Amaryllis is a bold, striking flower that grows from a bulb. Many people grow them in containers, often in the fall or winter for late winter to early spring blooms, but amaryllis can also grow outdoors in warmer climates. Amaryllis care is generally easy and it is not often troubled by disease, but be aware of signs of southern blight and know how to manage it.

What is Amaryllis Southern Blight Disease?

Southern blight of amaryllis is a fungal disease that can affect these plants. The causal agent is the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. It also causes disease in legumes, cruciferous vegetables, and cucurbits, among many other plants you may have in your garden.

There are a lot of different plants, and weeds, that can play host to the southern blight fungus. For amaryllis, you are most likely to see the disease if you grow them outdoors. Potted amaryllis plants are less vulnerable but could become infected through the soil or contaminated garden tools.

Amaryllis Southern Blight Symptoms

The first signs of southern blight infection are yellowing and wilting of the leaves. The fungus will then appear as white growth around the stem at the level of the soil. The fungus spreads through small, bead-shaped structures called sclerotia, which you may see on the threads of white fungus.

Amaryllis with southern blight may also show signs of infection in the bulb. Look for soft spots and brown, rotted areas on the bulb below the soil. Eventually, the plant will die.

Preventing and Treating Southern Blight

The fungus that causes this disease will accumulate in the leftover plant material from past seasons. To prevent the spread of southern blight from year to year, clean up around your beds and dispose of dead leaves and other material appropriately. Don’t put it in the compost pile.

If you grow amaryllis in pots, throw out the soil and clean and disinfect the pots before using them again with new bulbs.

Southern blight of amaryllis can also be treated if you catch it in time. Drench the soil around the stem with an appropriate fungicide. Check with your local nursery for the right treatment for amaryllis.

One of the most important aspects of amaryllis plants is the bloom. Depending upon the size of the flower bulb, amaryllis plants are known to produce magnificent clusters of large flowers. Amaryllis red blotch is one of the most common causes of failure of the plant to bloom. Find out what to do about it, and how to change your amaryllis care routine to save it.

What is Amaryllis Red Blotch?

Most commonly known for their potted plant culture during the holiday season, amaryllis is a beautiful tropical plant that thrives in warm climate flower beds. While the process of forcing these bulbs indoors in pots is extremely popular, growers living in USDA growing zones 9 to 11 can enjoy these plants outdoors with little care or maintenance. These flowers are relatively easy to grow, however, there are some issues that cause less than desirable outcomes, like red blotch of amaryllis.

Amaryllis red blotch, also known as amaryllis leaf scorch, is a fungal infection which is caused by the fungus Stagonospora curtisii. When an amaryllis has leaf scorch, growers may first notice small red spots along the length of the flower stalk. Over time, these spots will begin to darken.

These lesions cause the flower stalk to bend or curve at the infected points in the stem. While the plants may bloom if the issue is not severe, more serious cases of amaryllis red blotch may cause the flower stalk to wither before blooming can occur.

Amaryllis Leaf Scorch Control

Amaryllis red blotch is often misidentified, as the symptoms are very similar to that of damaged flower stalks or plants attacked by insects. These issues should always be taken into consideration when determining whether or not plants have become infected with this fungal disease.

For most growers, amaryllis which has failed to bloom can be a major disappointment. Like many fungal diseases, amaryllis with leaf scorch may be difficult to control. The best course of action when dealing with red blotch of amaryllis plants is prevention.

Maintaining healthy gardening practices will help diminish the likelihood of plant infection. These practices include the use of sterile potting soil, as well as making sure to avoid wetting the leaves of the plant when watering.

Amaryllis plants are loved for their large, vibrant flowers. Ranging in color from white to dark red or burgundy, amaryllis bulbs are a popular choice for outdoor warm climate gardens, or those wishing to grow the bulb indoors for forcing during the winter season. Coming in various sizes, these large bulbs can be potted into containers and grown near a sunny window. The ease of amaryllis care makes them a popular gift for both experienced and amateur garden enthusiasts.

Amaryllis bulbs, specifically those sold for forcing during the winter, require certain conditions for adequate growth and the production of large flowers. From planting to bloom, there are several factors which may impact the overall health of the plant. Like many potted plants, diseases and issues related to fungal infections can be detrimental to the development of the plant and may even cause it to die before it is able to bloom. Amaryllis bulb rot is one such issue.

Why are My Amaryllis Bulbs Rotting?

There are several reasons why amaryllis bulbs may begin to rot. Among these causes is fungal infection. In many cases, spores are able to enter through the outer scales of the amaryllis bulb and then continue the rotting process from within. Though minor infections may not impact the bloom of the plant, those that are more severe can cause the eventual collapse of the amaryllis plant.

While fungal infections are very common in these bulbs, other rot issues may stem from moisture or exposure to extreme temperatures. Bulbs that have been planted into containers or garden beds which fail to drain adequately can be a definitive cause of rotten amaryllis bulbs. This is especially true of amaryllis varieties that are slow to sprout roots and begin the growth process.

In addition to these factors, amaryllis bulb rot may occur when the bulbs have been damaged by extremely cold temperatures during storage or throughout the shipping process. In general, it is best to discard rotting amaryllis bulbs. This will help to prevent the spread of fungal infection to other plants.

Amaryllis plants are prized for their large, exotic, trumpet-shaped flowers which can be forced indoors to bloom during the winter months. After receiving festive potted amaryllis plants as gifts or using them for holiday centerpieces, gardeners in warm climates often plant them in perennial beds outdoors.

In time and with the right amaryllis care, outdoor amaryllis bulbs will reproduce and naturalize. Amaryllis plant division is not only a way to control amaryllis colonies, but it also keeps plants healthy while allowing you to make more of your own amaryllis bulb centerpieces.

Separating Amaryllis Plants

In the United States, amaryllis bulbs can grow well outdoors in most parts of zones 8 through 11, with some varieties even overwintering in zone 7. In the right conditions, outdoor amaryllis plants will produce new bulbs each year, naturalizing into dense colonies. When too many bulbs form underground in a spot, they can begin to choke each other out. Like lilies, hosta, daffodils, or many other plants, the overgrown clumps can be divided to space plants out and rejuvenate them. When to split amaryllis plants will depend on what you intend to do with the bulbs. In late summer and fall, amaryllis can be taken from the garden to force into bloom for the holidays. However, garden amaryllis plants are usually divided in autumn months (October/November) or February and March in warmer regions. Dividing outdoor amaryllis plants at these times will allow them their natural dormancy period to form spring blooms.

How to Divide Amaryllis Bulbs in the Garden

Before amaryllis plant division, you should prepare the new site or containers. Add soil or amendments to provide a well-draining, healthy soil to reduce transplant shock. Amaryllis bulbs will benefit from the addition of rich, organic matter. Pre-dig holes with a bulb planter or auger. In regions with dry winters, it may be necessary to water the planting site deeply 24 hours before digging to make the soil easier to work with. You can also trim off any stalks and foliage remaining on the amaryllis at this point. Use a sharp garden spade to cut a circle around the clump of amaryllis bulbs. Keep the spade a few inches (8 cm.) away from any bulbs and cut deeply down into the soil. Then gently lift the bulb clump out of the earth; many gardeners prefer to use a garden fork for this step. Once the selected amaryllis has been dug up, carefully remove the soil around the bulbs. Rinsing the bulbs with water or gently shaking them can help remove the dirt to allow you a better view. While some bulbs may easily separate or fall off the clump of bulbs, it may be necessary to use a clean, sharp knife to cut the bulbs apart. Look over each bulb carefully and discard any that look sick, mushy, or have signs of insects, such as boring holes. The remaining healthy bulbs should be planted immediately in the garden or designated containers. Plant bulbs 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) deep and water thoroughly.

Few bulb plants have showier blossoms than amaryllis, with its frothy lily-type flowers in a wild array of colors. Since these bulbs can bloom year after year given proper care, it’s well worth learning its after-bloom care requirements.

Repotting amaryllis is an essential part of amaryllis care. We’re here to tell you all about amaryllis repotting, including when to repot amaryllis and how to repot amaryllis.

Signs It’s Time to Repot an Amaryllis

Amaryllis bulbs grow best without much elbow room. They like to be a little rootbound, and if you buy a potted one, you’ll note that it’s a fairly tight fit in the container, with only about an inch (2.5cm) of soil around the bulb.

But properly nurtured bulbs grow, and after some 3 to 5 years, it’s time for amaryllis repotting. You can tell it’s time to repot if there is less than an inch of soil between the bulb and the pot.

When to Repot Amaryllis

The best time to repot amaryllis is just after its period of dormancy. Dormancy begins when the plant’s leaves start to fade and yellow in September, and it’s usually completed by January. Watering is reduced during this dormancy period. The perfect repotting amaryllis period is just after the plant completes its dormancy period.

How to Repot Amaryllis

The key to repotting amaryllis is the size of the new pot: pick one that is just slightly larger than the old one. The new pot should be about an inch or two (2.5–5 cm) wider than the diameter of the bulb.

Loosen the roots of the bulb by running a garden knife inside the pot, then tip out the plant, roots and all. Shake off the old soil. Put well-draining potting soil in the bottom of the new pot, position the bulb so that the top is above the rim of the container, then pack in potting soil. Leave the tip of the bulb (1/3 to ½ of the bulb) above the soil. Water well.

Frequently Asked Questions

Growing amaryllis from seeds is a very rewarding, if somewhat long, process. Amaryllis hybridizes easily, which means you can develop your own new variety right at home. That’s the good news. 

The bad news is that it takes years, sometimes as many as five, to go from seed to blossoming plant. If you have some patience, however, you can produce and germinate your own amaryllis seed pods. Keep reading to learn more about amaryllis care and how to plant an amaryllis seed.

Amaryllis Seed Propagation

If your amaryllis plants are growing outside, they may be naturally pollinated. If you’re growing yours inside, however, or you just don’t want to leave things to chance, you can pollinate them yourself with a small paintbrush. Gently collect the pollen from the stamen of one flower and brush it onto the pistil of another. 

Amaryllis plants can self-pollinate, but you’ll have better results and more interesting crossbreeding if you use two different plants. As the flower fades, the little green nub at its base should swell into a seed pod. Let the pod turn yellow and brown and crack open, then pick it. Inside should be a collection of black, wrinkly seeds.

Can You Grow Amaryllis Seeds?

Growing amaryllis from seeds is absolutely possible, though time consuming. Plant your seeds as soon as possible in well-draining soil or vermiculite under a very thin layer of soil or perlite. 

Water the seeds and keep them moist in partial shade until they sprout. Not all the seeds are likely to sprout, so don’t get discouraged. After germination, growing amaryllis from seeds is not difficult. 

Allow the sprouts to grow for a few weeks (they should look like grass) before transplanting them into larger individual pots. Feed them with an all-purpose fertilizer. Keep the plants in direct sun and treat them like any other amaryllis. 

In a few years’ time, you’ll be richly rewarded with a variety of blossoms that may never have been seen before.

Gardeners love amaryllis (Hippeastrum sp.) for their simple, elegant blossoms and their fuss-free cultural requirements. The tall amaryllis stalks grow from bulbs, and each stalk bears four huge blooms that are excellent cut flowers. If your blooming plant gets top-heavy, you might need to learn about staking an amaryllis. Read on for information about amaryllis care when your plant requires a little extra support.

Staking an Amaryllis

You’ll have to start staking an amaryllis when the stems threaten to topple under the weight of the flowers. This is especially likely if you are growing a cultivar that offers large, double blossoms, like ‘Double Dragon.’ The idea behind staking amaryllis plants is to provide them with amaryllis support stakes that are stronger and sturdier than the stems themselves. On the other hand, you don’t want to use anything so big that the amaryllis plant support detracts from the beauty of the long-legged flower.

Ideal Support for Amaryllis

The support for amaryllis plants must include two parts. Your amaryllis plant support stake must have both the stake that is inserted into the ground beside the stem and also something attaching the stem to the stake. Ideal amaryllis support stakes are about the thickness of a wire clothes hanger. You can buy them in commerce, but it is cheaper to make your own.

Making Amaryllis Support Stakes

In order to create a stake for supporting an amaryllis, you need one wire clothes hanger, plus wire clippers and a pair of needle-nose pliers. Be sure to choose a sturdy hanger, not a flimsy one. Clip off the top section (the hanger section) from the clothes hanger. Straighten out the wire using the needle-nose pliers. Now create a rectangle at one end of the wire. This will attach the plant stems to the stake. The rectangle should end up 1.5 inches (4 cm.) wide by 6 inches (15 cm.) long. Use the needle-nose pliers to make 90-degree bends in the wire. Make the first bend at 2.5 inches (6 cm.) instead of 1.5 inches (4 cm.), to allow sufficient wire for a clasp. Make the second 90-degree bend 6 inches (15 cm.) later, the third should be 1.5 inches (4 cm.) after that. Bend back the first inch (2.5 cm.) of the 2.5 inch (6 cm.) segment in a U-shape. Then bend the entire rectangle so it is perpendicular to the length of the wire with the open side facing up. Insert the bottom end of the stake into the “leaf edge” side of the bulb. Push it in close to the bulb nose and keep pushing until it touches the bottom of the pot. Open the “latch” of the rectangle, gather flower stems into it, then close it again.

Amaryllis is a great early-blooming flower that brings a splash of color to the dark winter months. Since it blooms in winter or early spring, it’s almost always kept in a pot indoors, meaning you have a lot more say in the kind of soil it grows in. So, what kind of soil is best for amaryllis care? Keep reading to learn about amaryllis soil requirements and the best potting mix for amaryllis.

Soil for Amaryllis Plants

Amaryllis bulbs grow best when they’re slightly crowded, so you don’t need too much potting mix. Your pot should leave only 2 inches (5 cm.) between its sides and the edges of the bulb. Amaryllis bulbs don’t like to sit in damp soil, and too much material around them can lead to them becoming waterlogged and rotten. A good soil for amaryllis plants is well-draining. You can use nothing but peat as the soil for amaryllis plants, but keep in mind that peat is hard to rehydrate once it dries out.

What Kind of Soil Does Amaryllis Need?

The best potting mix for amaryllis is high in organic matter but also well-draining.

• One good mix is made of two parts loam, one part perlite, and one part rotted manure. This makes for a nice balance of organic and draining amaryllis soil requirements.
• Another recommended mix is one part loam, one part sand, and one part compost.

Whatever you use, just make sure your organic material is well rotted and broken up by enough gritty material to allow water to drain easily. When you plant your amaryllis, leave the top third to half of the bulb (the pointy end) above the potting mix. Amaryllis bulbs don’t require a lot of potting mix, so if you wind up with extra, keep it in a sealed container and save it until you need to repot. This way you’ll be sure to have the appropriate and sterile soil on hand.

Amaryllis is a blooming bulb that produces spectacular blooms measuring up to 10 inches (25 cm.) across, atop sturdy stalks up to 26 inches (66 cm.) tall. Most common amaryllis varieties produce two stems per bulb, each with four blooms, although some cultivars may produce six blooms. For those interested in amaryllis care, this winter-blooming stunner is available in a variety of shapes and colors; in fact, almost too many different types of amaryllis to count. Read on to learn about just a few of the many amaryllis flower varieties on the market.

Varieties of Amaryllis

With so many types of amaryllis to choose from, it can be overwhelming when choosing one to grow indoors or in the garden. To make things a little easier, here are some of the most popular amaryllis varieties.

Large Flowering Amaryllis Varieties

These are classic flowers with big blooms in single layers of petals. Common types to choose from this group of amaryllis include:

• Clown – Types of amaryllis flowers include this cheery cultivar with pure white petals and bright red stripes.
• Picotee – Another type of amaryllis flower with large, white flowers and a slender band of red on the edges of the blooms. Lime green throats provide contrast.
• Ruby Star – This cultivar boasts pointy, star-shaped blooms with burgundy petals contrasted with white and lime green, star-shaped throats.
• Desire – The many colorful varieties of amaryllis include Desire, which produces blooms in a warm shade of sunset orange.
• Apple blossom – This old favorite amaryllis boasts white petals with blushes of soft pink contrasted by lime green throats.

Double Flowering Varieties of Amaryllis

These amaryllis flowers contain several layers of petals to create a rich, full appearance. Good picks here include the following:

• Red Peacock – As the name suggests, this cultivar shows off deep red blooms with accents of narrow, white stripes running down the center of the petals.
• Dancing Queen – This frilly double variety has layers of pure white petals that provide a full, fluffy look. The red candy stripes create real pizzazz.
• Snow Drift – As you would expect, this multi-petaled variety displays billowy, pure white flowers.
• Nymph – This is another snowy white cultivar, this time with subtle streaks of salmon.

Exotic Amaryllis Varieties

Strange, weird, and wonderful types of amaryllis flowers are included in this group. Good choices are:

• Chico – An eye-catching variety with slender, spidery petals of creamy ivory. Markings of reddish purple and pale green provide a tropical appearance.
• Santiago – Snow-white, trumpet-shaped blooms provide a background for ruby red stripes and lime green throats. Amaryllis isn’t typically fragrant, but this is one exception.
• Misty – Another fragrant variety, Misty displays broad, white, trumpet-shaped flowers with blushes of rosy pink.
• Papillio Butterfly – As you might expect, reddish purple stripes with a hint of green against white petals give this variety a butterfly-like appearance.

Is your amaryllis stuck in neutral and refusing to flower? It can happen to the best of us. You might well be asking, why won’t my amaryllis bloom? A flower-free Hippeastrum is so frustrating, and believe it or not, it is a common disappointment: you plant your amaryllis bulb expecting a dramatic floral centerpiece, only to be met with a fountain of long, green leaves, and no flower stalk in sight. While it may feel like a failure, the "all leaves and no flowers" conundrum is simply the plant's way of telling you that its energy cycle has been interrupted.

In most cases, the culprit is hidden in the details. Perhaps the light was too low, or a vital dormancy period was skipped. Real amaryllis care starts with bright sun and proper rest. Amaryllis bulbs are energy-storage masters and need time to recharge for their next big show. If that recharge is cut short or the plant is overwatered, the bulb prioritizes survival over display. By making a few simple adjustments to your care routine, you can ensure future blooms do become a reality. So if you see amaryllis leaves but no flower stalk, here’s what to do.

Understanding the Bloom Cycle

The “all amaryllis leaves no flowers” position makes more sense if you think about this in terms of a bloom cycle. And the thing with cycles is, there are specific stages that have to be respected. To get an amaryllis (Hippeastrum) to bloom, you must respect its internal clock. After planting, these bulbs use stored energy to push growth. However, if the plant doesn’t receive enough bright light during its leafy phase, it cannot photosynthesize enough starch to refill the bulb for next year’s flowers.

The most critical phase is the rest period. If your amaryllis variety is kept in a warm, bright spot year-round without a break, it never receives the signal to create a flower bud. A bulb needs at least 8-10 weeks of cool, dark dormancy to reset. If the rest period lasts less than 8 weeks, the bulb doesn’t fully reset its internal cycle, and flower stalks may fail to form. Without this winter simulation, the plant will continue to produce foliage while the internal flower path remains dormant.

5 Reasons for Missing Flowers

Seeing no flowers on amaryllis plants requires taking a closer look at environment. If your amaryllis is refusing to bud, it is likely reacting to one of the following stressors. If you want to crack the secret of successful blooming, use this checklist to identify where the cycle has broken down and how to get it back on track. You can get your amaryllis to bloom again if you check these issues and take steps to rectify the situation.

1. Insufficient Light

Amaryllis are sun-lovers. While they can survive in dim corners, they rarely flower there. In low light, the plant will stretch its leaves toward the sun, becoming leggy and weak. This takes energy away from the bulb. Without enough light, energy feeds leaves instead of buds, and flowers stall.

The Fix: Move your plant to a south-facing window, where it can receive at least 6 hours of bright, indirect light per day. If your home is naturally dark, consider using a dimmable LED grow light like the Fecida Full Spectrum Grow Light from Amazon to supplement the sun your amaryllis bulbs need to build up their reserves.

2. Improper Watering

Watering your amaryllis is a real balancing act. The bulb takes what it needs, and nothing more. Too much water leads to bulb rot, while too little causes the roots to die back, preventing the plant from taking up nutrients. If your amaryllis is too warm, it can also lead to evaporation spikes.

The Fix: Use room-temperature water and keep the soil damp but not soggy. Make sure you are checking the soil twice daily. A 4-in-1 moisture meter like the Yamron Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon can take the guesswork out of this. Ensure the pot has excellent drainage – the bulb should never sit in standing water.

3. Lack of Nutrients

Amaryllis plants need balanced feed to build energy for blooms. If you use a fertilizer with too much nitrogen, you will get beautiful, giant leaves but zero flowers. Low phosphorus favors leaf growth while reducing stalk strength. Phosphorus is the key ingredient for flower power.

The Fix: Once leaves emerge, use a balanced liquid fertilizer or a bloom booster that is high in phosphorus. Try Raw All in One Bloom Feed from Amazon after leaves emerge, feeding monthly during active growth. It’s also good to test soil pH, as you need a pH of 6-6.5. Add a bit of sulfur if the soil is too alkaline. A little bone meal mixed into the soil can also provide a slow-release phosphorus boost. Balanced feed keeps the cycle strong without overwhelming the pot or causing salt buildup.

4. Skipping the Rest Period

Bulbs need rest: no break, no scape (and hence, no flowers). Growth drains reserves, and without a pause, the bulbs will weaken. If you don't force the bulb into dormancy, it eventually becomes exhausted.

The Fix: In late summer, stop watering and let the leaves turn yellow naturally. This allows the nutrients to flow back into the bulb. Then cut the faded leaves and move the pot to a cool (55°F/13°C) and dark place like a basement for 8–10 weeks. Use a digital thermometer like the ThermoPro TP50 from Amazon to keep the temperature steady. A slight chill mimics natural seasonal signals, supporting stronger stalks and healthier blooms in the next cycle.

5. Overcrowded or Old Bulbs

Amaryllis bulbs like to be slightly snug in their pots, but crowded pots can mean cramped roots and no blooms. Crowded bulbs compete for space and nutrients, which gradually weakens growth and reduces blooms. If they become completely root-bound or the soil is depleted of all organic matter, then blooming will cease. Additionally, very old bulbs (over 5-7 years) may naturally lose their vigor.

The Fix: Repot your amaryllis every 3 years in fresh, well-draining potting mix. If you see small offset bulbs growing on the side of the main bulb, you can gently remove and pot these separately to give the parent bulb more room to breathe. If in doubt, try a composition of 2 parts potting mix and 1 part perlite, horticultural grit, or coarse sand And repot with a large terracotta or ceramic container with drainage, like the Dosayes Vintage Ceramic Planter with Drainage Hole from Amazon.

How Bulbs Charge for Beauty

Unlike many houseplants, an amaryllis acts like a battery. The long, strap-like leaves are its solar panels, absorbing light to create starch that is stored deep within the bulb’s layers. When you see all leaves and no flowers, it is often because this "battery" didn't get a full charge the previous year.

To ensure your amaryllis will bloom, the bulb needs to feel slightly heavy and firm. A light, papery bulb usually indicates that energy reserves have been depleted by low light or a lack of nutrients during the previous summer. Hopefully, these tips have given you the confidence to make the adjustments necessary to entice new flowers into bloom.

Checklist for Blooming

To guarantee a successful display next season, follow this simple action plan to manage your plant's energy:

• Post-Bloom Care (Spring/Summer): Do not cut the leaves! Place the plant in the brightest spot possible and feed it monthly with a balanced fertilizer to charge the bulb. May to August is the recharging phase where the leaves feed the bulb.
• Triggering Rest (September-October): Once the leaves turn yellow and wither, cut them back to 2 inches (5cm) above the bulb. Stop watering entirely and move the plant to a cool, dark location (55°F/13°C) for 8–10 weeks. This mimics the plant's natural dormant season.
• The Wake-Up Call (November/December): After 8–10 weeks of rest, bring the bulb back into the warmth and light. Replace the top inch of soil with fresh compost and give it one thorough watering to wake up the roots. Flowers should start to appear 6–8 weeks later.
• Stalk Management (The Growing Phase): As the amaryllis flower stalk rises, rotate the pot a quarter-turn every day. This prevents the stalk from leaning toward the light and ensures the floral display is upright and elegant.
• Temperature Control: Keep the plant at a steady room temperature (around 70°F/21°C). Avoid placing it near drafty windows or hot radiators, which can stress the developing flower buds.

By clearly distinguishing between the foliage phase (energy gathering) and the dormancy phase (flower triggering), you are giving your amaryllis the best chance of flowering again, and flowering well. Just remember, if you are repotting, leave the top third of the bulb peeking out. Burying it too deep is a common reason for rot.

Also, try the squeeze test. A healthy bulb should feel like a firm onion. If it feels like a soft sponge, no amount of light will bring it back from the brink. And finally, when you do get those big, beautiful blooms, snip the yellow pollen anthers. This will help those gorgeous flowers last for longer.

Amaryllis Care Essentials

If your amaryllis is looking a little under par during winter, these key items can help restore its vigor, support strong plants, and encourage better flowering potential.

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Patience is a virtue it is said. That is one virtue some of us lack when it comes to growing amaryllis flowers. Fortunately, we can trick the bulbs into thinking it is time to flower. There are some schools of thought that say forcing amaryllis bulbs in soil versus water is the best method. Here are some tips on amaryllis care that will force the bulbs to bloom in soil - a successful project that will brighten your home and your mood.

How to Force Amaryllis Bulbs in Soil

Purchased forced bulbs allow you to enjoy flowers earlier than they are produced in nature. This jump-start on spring can brighten the dark spaces in the winter home. Amaryllis forcing indoors is easy and allows you to watch the tall stems grow right before your eyes. Take a do-it-yourself approach and try amaryllis bulb forcing. Kits are available readily or you can force the previous season's bulb, provided you kept it in a dry location. The first step is to make sure you have healthy bulbs. Choose large bulbs without blemishes or mold. If you stored them from the previous year and they got moist, rot may have set in, and these should be discarded. Forcing amaryllis bulbs in the soil is best since it minimizes the chances of any rot forming on the bulb. Some people force amaryllis in water, but if your home is humid or the bulb is too low in the water, fungal damage can occur. The next step is choosing the proper container. The bulbs don't need a large pot in spite of their massive blooms and tall stems. Pick one that drains well and is about 1 or 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) wider than the diameter of the bulb. Planting the bulb at the proper depth comes next. Fill the bottom of the pot with a couple of inches (5 cm.) of soil. Situate the bulb about midway in the container and fill up to the top with soil. The top third of the bulb should be sticking out of the soil when you are finished. Push in bamboo or another type of stake just to the side of the bulb. This will help support those leggy leaves and stem when the growth becomes tall. Water the soil well, ensuring excess moisture is draining from the bottom. A key to amaryllis forcing indoors is temperature. The best, most rapid growth will occur if the container is in a room that is at least 70 degrees F. (21 C.). Do not water the container again until you see green growth. Provide bright, indirect light and evenly moist (not soggy) soil once the leaves have begun to appear.

Amaryllis Bulb Forcing Care

It might seem that faster growth would occur with a little plant food but hold your horses. Wait until you see green. It can take anywhere from two to eight weeks for growth to appear. You can try to stimulate the bulb by placing it on a warming mat. Then fertilize with a diluted (by half) water-soluble food every two to three weeks. Rotate the pot every few days as growth continues to keep the stalk straight. Depending upon the variety of amaryllis, blooming should take place six to eight weeks after potting. Once the flowers appear, move the plant to a location with indirect light to prolong the blooms. Amaryllis bulb forcing in soil is one of those no-brainers once you have a few tricks up your sleeve. In no time you will be face to face with one of the most brilliant flowers available.

Amaryllis plants are popular gifts that are easy to grow and provide breathtaking flower displays. These South African natives grow fast, bloom for weeks, and leave behind huge, sword-shaped greenery. Once the amaryllis flowers are gone, the plant can still provide a tropical look for months. All that is needed is good post-bloom care of amaryllis and you can enjoy the plant while it stores energy for the next year's flowers.

About Amaryllis Flowers

Amaryllis bulbs are common around the winter holidays. The bold, nodding flowers on thick, erect stems bring a festive beauty to the home interior when skies are gray, and temperatures are chilly outside. Once the flowers fade, you are still left with a spectacular plant. Amaryllis care after blooming varies a little from regular bloom care, but it is important to provide a dormancy period for the bulb if you want additional flowers in the future. Amaryllis flowers may last for weeks but, eventually, all things come to pass. No matter, as you still have glossy, green leaves that are gathering the sun's energy to fuel another bloom. Since this is the plant's active growth period, it is important to continue to offer water, food, and sunlight. Cut off the old flower stem 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) from the bulb. Keep the container in a sunny window where temperatures are around 65 to 70 degrees F. (18-21 C.). Water when the top surface of the soil feels dry. Caring for amaryllis plants after blooming requires fertilizing every two to three weeks with a water-soluble plant food. This keeps the strappy leaves happy and healthy so they can photosynthesize and gather plant carbohydrates.

Spring Post Bloom Care after Flowering

Once you get your plant through winter and sunny skies and warm temperatures have arrived, you can move the plant outdoors. Some shock will occur if you don't slowly adjust the plant to the outside conditions. Gradually leave it outside longer and longer over the course of a week. Continue to water and feed the amaryllis just as you did inside. With direct sun exposure it may need more water than it did indoors, so check the soil frequently. In July, suspend fertilizing to get the plant ready for its dormant period. This prevents new leaves from forming, which will just tax the bulb when it should be saving energy.

Dormancy and Amaryllis Care after Flowering

Most bulbs require a dormant period to bloom. Dormancy occurs as a natural response to cooler temperatures. In the case of amaryllis, the temperatures should be 50 degrees F. (10 C.) for eight to ten weeks to promote reblooming. To force dormancy, you first need to decide when you want the plant to bloom. For a December bloom, get the plant ready by stopping all watering in September. This will gradually cause leaves to wilt and die back. Additionally, move the plant to a dimly lit location. Once the leaves are brown, cut them off, dig up the bulb, and wash and trim the roots a little bit. Then store the bulb on its side in a cool, dry, dark area. The minimum storage time is eight weeks to ensure blooms. As you can see, caring for amaryllis plants after blooming is easy but crucial to the next year’s bodacious blooms.

Although amaryllis is a tropical flowering plant, it is most commonly seen during the winter months when it is often grown indoors. The bulbs come in a variety of shapes and brilliant colors sure to brighten the dreariest winter day. Care of amaryllis is often a question, but does amaryllis need fertilizer? If so, you may wonder when to fertilize amaryllis and what are amaryllis fertilizer requirements? Read on to learn more.

Does Amaryllis Need Fertilizer?

Amaryllis is often given as a gift during the holiday season wherein folks treat the plant as a one-shot, single blossom plant, almost like cut flowers. Once the bloom is gone, the entire bulb is often tossed as well. However, amaryllis can be grown year-round, and you can even entice it to bloom again by feeding amaryllis plants. Proper amaryllis bulb fertilizer is the key to a healthy plant and show-stopping bloom.

When to Fertilize Amaryllis

You should begin feeding amaryllis plants once the foliage begins to peek out above the soil surface-- NOT before it has foliage. 

Amaryllis fertilizer requirements are not particularly special; pretty much any slow-release or liquid fertilizer that has an N-P-K ratio of 10-10-10. If using a slow-release fertilizer, apply every three to four months. When using a liquid fertilizer, feed the plant two to four times monthly, either every week or bi-monthly. Keep the bulb in as much natural sunlight as possible at this stage of growth. 

If you would like to continue to grow your amaryllis instead of tossing the bulb into the compost, remove the blossom as soon as it begins to fade. Cut the stem off just above the bulb to remove the flower. Put the bulb back in a sunny window. During this period the bulb is growing, so you need to keep the soil moist and fertilize at regular intervals as above. 

To get the plant to re-blossom by forcing the bulb, amaryllis needs a period of dormancy. To force the bulb into blooming, quit watering and fertilizing for eight to ten weeks and place the bulb in a cool, 55 degrees F. (12 C.), dark area. The old leaves will wither and yellow and new growth will begin to emerge. At this point start watering again, remove the dead foliage, and move the plant into a full sun location. 

If you live in USDA hardiness zones 8 to 10, the bulb can also be moved outdoors after all danger of frost has passed in the spring. Select a sunny area of the garden that gets some shade during the hot, afternoon hours and mulch around the bulb. Plant bulbs a foot (31 cm.) apart in well-draining soil.

Snip any dead leaves to encourage new growth, keep the bulb moist, and feed the amaryllis bulb a fertilizer that is lower in nitrogen, like 0-10-10 or 5-10-10, sometimes called a “blossom booster” fertilizer. Keep using this slow-release fertilizer from March through September.

Fertilize the first time as new growth begins to emerge and again when the flower stalk is 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm.) in height. A third application should be applied when the old flower heads and stems have been removed.

Amaryllis flowers are very popular early-blooming bulbs that make for big, dramatic splashes of color in the dead of winter. Once those impressive blossoms have faded, however, it’s not over. Storing amaryllis bulbs over the winter is an easy and effective way to get recurring blooms for years to come. Keep reading to learn more about amaryllis bulb storage and how to overwinter an amaryllis bulb.

Storing Amaryllis Bulbs in Winter

Once the flowers of your amaryllis have faded, cut back the flower stalks to ½ an inch (1.5 cm.) above the bulb. Don’t cut the leaves yet! Your bulb needs the leaves in place to gather energy to make it through the winter and grow again in the spring. If you move it to a sunny spot, it can gather even more energy. 

If it’s in a pot with drainage holes and your nights are warmer than 50 F. (10 C.), you can move it outside. If your pot does not have drainage holes, don’t put it outside - the rain will build up and rot your bulb. You can transplant it outside into your garden for the duration of the summer, though. Make sure to bring it inside again if there’s any danger of frost.

Amaryllis Bulb Storage

When the foliage starts to die back naturally, cut it back to 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) above the bulb. Dig your bulb up and store it in a cool, dry, dark place (like a basement) for anywhere between 4 and 12 weeks. 

Amaryllis bulbs in winter go dormant, so they won’t need any water or attention. When you want to plant your bulb, place it in a pot not much bigger than the bulb, with its shoulders above the soil. Give it one good drink of water and place it in a warm, sunny window. Before long it should start growing.

Did you know that amaryllis will grow happily in water? It’s true, and with suitable care of amaryllis in water, the plant will even bloom abundantly. Of course, the bulbs cannot remain in this environment long term, but it’s a great way to enjoy the showy flowers over winter when all else looks dreary. Want to learn more about amaryllis care for bulbs grown in water? Read on.

Amaryllis Bulbs and Water

Although most amaryllis bulbs are forced indoors using soil, they can also be easily rooted and grown in water too. The main thing to keep in mind when growing amaryllis in water is not to let the bulb itself come in contact with the water, as this will promote rot. So how then is it done, you ask. With the use of a jar specifically designed for forcing bulbs in water, you’ll be amazed at just how easy it is to force an amaryllis in water. While there are specialized kits available that make this endeavor easier, it’s not necessary. All you need is an amaryllis bulb, a vase or jar slightly larger than the bulb, some gravel or pebbles, and water. In some instances, the gravel stones aren’t even needed, but I feel it looks more attractive.

Growing Amaryllis in Water

Once you have everything you need, it’s time to place your bulb in the vase. Begin by adding the gravel, pebbles, or decorative stones. Depending on the type of jar used, this may be about 4 inches (10 cm.) deep or 2/3 - 3/4 of the way full. Some people also like to add aquarium charcoal to the gravel, which helps to prevent odors. Prepare your bulb by trimming off any dry, brown roots. You want the roots of amaryllis bulbs in water to be fleshy and white. Now place the bulb root side down on the gravel medium, pushing it slightly into them but leaving the top third of the bulb exposed. Add water to about an inch (2.5 cm.) below the base of the bulb. This is important. The base of the bulb and roots should be the only parts touching the water; otherwise, rotting of the bulb will occur.

Amaryllis in Water Care

The care of amaryllis in water begins after planting.

• Place your jar in a sunny windowsill.
• Maintain temps of at least 60 to 75 degrees F. (15-23 C.), as the bulb depends on the warmth to help with sprouting.
• Keep an eye on the water level, check daily, and add as needed – changing the water once a week is preferable.

Within a few weeks to a month or so, you should begin noticing a small shoot emerging from the top of your amaryllis bulb. You should also see more root growth within the gravels. Rotate the vase as you would for any houseplant to promote even growth. If all goes well and it receives plenty of light, your amaryllis plant should eventually bloom. Once the flowers fade, however, you’ll need to either transplant the amaryllis to soil for continual growth or you have the option of tossing it out. Amaryllis grown in water doesn’t always perform as well as those grown in soil, but it’s still a worthwhile project. That being said, if you do decide to continue growing your amaryllis plant, it may take a couple of years before it reblooms.

Amaryllis Garden Care: Tips On Planting Amaryllis Outside

Amaryllis is as popular a holiday gift plant as poinsettia and Christmas cactus. Once the attractive blooms fade, though, we’re left wondering what to do next. Of course, many people choose to continue growing the plant indoors, but it may come as a pleasant surprise to know that in warmer climes, up to USDA zone 7b, amaryllis care in the garden is an option too. Read on to learn more about growing amaryllis in gardens.

Amaryllis Planting Outdoors

Amaryllis bulbs are easy enough to grow indoors, and just as easy to grow in the garden, provided you live in a suitable region. They make great specimens outdoors. They perform well in beds, borders, or containers outside. You can also scatter them throughout the landscape in naturalized areas.

These plants look exceptionally attractive when planted in groups. Best of all, amaryllis bulbs are deemed resistant to both deer and many rodents. Whether you are planning on planting the bulbs themselves or transplanting forced plants, it’s important to know when the appropriate time for doing so is.

Typically, new bulbs are planted with other spring bloomers – in fall. Those gifted to you (or purchased plants) can go outside in spring after the threat of frost has passed. Wait until the plants have finished blooming too. Prior to moving these plants outside, however, you’ll want to gradually acclimate them to their new environment.

How to Grow Amaryllis in the Garden

Once amaryllis plants are ready to be planted, you’ll have to decide where to put them. First, consider light, since those being acclimated will need to slowly be introduced to more light anyway.

Amaryllis can tolerate both sun and shade fairly well but typically fares better somewhere in between – like partial shade. Too much sunlight can lead to leaf burn, while flowering may be limited in too much shade. Next, consider the soil in the area you want to grow amaryllis.

These bulbs prefer well-draining soil. You can improve drainage by creating raised beds or simply mixing in some organic matter, like peat or compost. Amended soil will also provide amaryllis with nutrients for healthy growth. Planting amaryllis outdoors is much the same as in containers, neck deep, keeping the top 1/3 of the bulb sticking up above soil level.

Space plants 12 to 15 inches (31-38 cm) apart. Water well following planting until they're established.

Amaryllis Garden Care

Amaryllis appreciates at least one feeding upon emergence in early spring. Although not necessary, additional fertilizer can be applied a couple more times throughout the growing season as needed using a balanced fertilizer at the recommended rates.

Amaryllis also needs to be kept moist throughout the growing season, though established plants are fairly tolerant of drought. Once planted outside, forced amaryllis bulbs will eventually revert back to their natural spring blooming cycle. Once flowers have faded, remove the stalks.

You can expect foliage to remain throughout much of summer before succumbing to fall frosts. Adding about a 2-inch (8 cm) layer of mulch around your plants will not only help conserve moisture and reduce weed growth but will offer them added protection once cooler temps arrive.

Given adequate amaryllis garden care, you can expect to see beautiful blooms each year. They don’t require much fuss and are fairly tolerant of neglect once established.

Should plants become overcrowded, divide the clumps and separate them as needed. This can also help with reduced blooming, as can a bloom-boosting fertilizer or bone meal.

Growing amaryllis in the garden is a great way to enjoy these plants year after year.

If you’re interested in Amaryllis belladonna flowers, also known as amaryllis lilies, your curiosity is justified. This is definitely a unique, interesting plant. Don’t confuse Amaryllis belladonna flowers with its tamer cousin, also known as amaryllis, which blooms indoors during the holiday season. This type of amaryllis is in the same plant family, different genus. Read on for more amaryllis plant info and amaryllis flower facts.

Amaryllis Plant Info

Amaryllis belladonna is an amazing plant that produces clumps of bold, strappy leaves in fall and winter. The showy foliage dies down by early summer and bare stalks emerge after about six weeks – a surprising development because the leafless stalks appear to grow directly from the soil. These bare stalks are why the plant is often known as “naked lady.” It is also known as “surprise lily” for its proclivity to pop up seemingly out of nowhere. Each stalk is topped with a cluster of up to 12 sweet-smelling, trumpet-shaped blooms in shades of rosy pink. Amaryllis belladonna is native to South Africa, but it has naturalized along the California coastline. It is definitely a plant that thrives on neglect.

Growing Amaryllis Lilies

Amaryllis belladonna performs best in climates with warm, dry summers. A location with a protected southern exposure is ideal. Plant the bulbs in well-drained soil, about 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30.5 cm.) apart. Site the bulbs just below the surface of the soil if you live in a cold winter climate. If you live in a climate where temps remain above 15 F. (-9 C.), plant the bulbs so the tops are level with the surface of the soil, or slightly above. For spectacular impact, plant amaryllis belladonna bulbs in groups of three or more.

Care of Amaryllis Belladonna

Care of Amaryllis belladonna is as easy as it gets. The plant gets all the moisture it needs from winter rains, but if the winter is dry, the bulbs benefit from occasional irrigation. Don’t bother with fertilizer; it isn’t necessary. Divide Amaryllis lilies only when absolutely necessary. The plant dislikes change and may react by refusing to bloom for several years.

Waiting for spring can make even the most patient gardener antsy and anguished. Forcing bulbs is a great way to bring some early spring cheer and brighten the home interior. Forcing bulbs in alcohol is a trick for preventing floppy paperwhites and any other leggy stemmed bulbs from falling over. What is the link between booze and bulbs? Read on to find out how a little distilled alcohol can help your long-stemmed flower bulbs.

Alcohol and Bulbs

Homo sapiens aren't the only life form that enjoys a tipple or two. Strangely, bulbs appear to produce shorter but sturdier stems when given a nip of vodka or even rum or gin. Keeping those leggy paperwhite bulbs upright might be as simple as getting out the shot glass. The science behind the trick is actually so basic even a garden writer can explain the benefits. Keeping amaryllis from flopping over may be accomplished with a slender stake or skewer but there is real evidence that forcing bulbs in alcohol can achieve the same effect. Researchers at Cornell University have discovered that a bit of distilled spirits can help solidify those slender stems and produce plants with a sturdier, upright posture. How does the alcohol stiffen their spines? The secret is a diluted solution of alcohol, which will induce water stress and prevent excessive stem growth without harming flower production. Alcohol limits growth of the stem to one third of the normal growth height and forces thicker, sturdier stalks.

How to Keep Paperwhite Bulbs Upright (and others too)

Many of the bulbs we force in winter for early blooming develop long stems. Paperwhites, amaryllis, tulips, narcissus, and others produce their beautiful blooms on the tops of slender flower stalks, which have the propensity to bend once the heavy flowers appear. Preventing floppy paperwhites and other bulbs is as easy as watering with a dilution of distilled alcohol. If you prefer not to sacrifice your Tanqueray or Absolut, you can also use rubbing alcohol. Using alcohol for forced bulbs requires a little know-how on the ratio necessary to promote limited stem growth without killing the plant. Distilled spirits are watered down at a rate of 1 part to 7 parts water. Rubbing alcohol needs more dilution at a rate of 1 to 11.

Method of Using Alcohol for Forced Bulbs

Using alcohol for forced bulbs starts with the same bulb starting method common for traditional starting. Pre-chill any bulbs that require it and then plant them in a container lined with gravel, glass, or pebbles. Paperwhites and amaryllis are bulbs that do not need a chilling period and can go directly into the container. Put in water as you normally would and wait for one to two weeks for the stem to start forming. Once it is 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) above the bulb, pour off the water and start using the alcohol solution. Results are noticeable within a few days. This simple solution will keep amaryllis from flopping over and allow you to enjoy flowers proudly balanced on the tops of those skinny stems where everyone can take pleasure in their regal beauty.

Amaryllis plants are beloved for their huge, brightly beaming blooms and large leaves - the whole package lends a tropical feel to indoor settings and gardens alike. These brash beauties live for decades and thrive indoors, but even the best houseplant has its days. 

Droopy amaryllis plants aren't uncommon; and these symptoms are typically caused by environmental problems. Read on to learn what makes the leaves on amaryllis turn yellow and droop, and how to change your amaryllis care routine to save them.

Why the Leaves on Amaryllis are Drooping

Amaryllis is an easy-care plant, provided the basic needs are met. When they don't get the right amount of water, fertilizer or sunlight at the proper time in their bloom cycle, it may result in limp, yellow leaves. 

You can prevent this situation and increase your plant's lifespan by keeping its basic needs in mind. 

Water

Amaryllis need frequent watering and excellent drainage. Although some kits are designed for growing amaryllis in a water culture, with this method these plants will always be sickly and short-lived - they simply aren't designed to sit in stagnant water all day. 

The bulb or crown may develop fungal rot under constantly wet conditions, causing limp leaves and plant death. Plant amaryllis in a well draining potting soil and water it any time the top inch (2.5 cm.) of soil feels dry to the touch.

Fertilizer

Never fertilize amaryllis as it is beginning to go dormant or you may stimulate new growth that keeps the bulb working when it should be resting. Dormancy is vital to the success of an amaryllis bulb - if it can't rest, new growth will emerge increasingly weaker until all you're left with are pale, limp leaves and an exhausted bulb. 

Sunlight

If you notice amaryllis leaves drooping despite otherwise ideal care, check the lighting in the room. Once the blooms have faded, amaryllis plants race to store as much energy in their bulbs as they can before they return to dormancy. Prolonged periods of low light can weaken your plant, resulting in signs of stress like yellow or limp leaves. Plan to move your amaryllis onto the patio after bloom, or provide it with supplemental indoor lighting.

Stress

Leaves droop in amaryllis for many reasons, but shock and stress may cause the most dramatic changes. If you've just moved your plant or are forgetting to water it regularly, the stress may be too much for the plant. Remember to check your plant every few days and water as needed. When you move it to the patio, start by placing it in a shady spot, then gradually increase its exposure to light over a week or two. Gentle changes and proper watering will usually prevent environmental shock.

Dormancy

If this is your first amaryllis bulb, you may be unaware that they must spend many weeks in dormancy in order to thrive. After the blooms are spent, the plant prepares for this rest period by storing up lots of food, but as it approaches dormancy, its leaves gradually turn yellow or brown and may droop. Let them dry out completely before removing them.

Amaryllis is a bulb plant with showy flowers. Easy to grow and easy to love, it’s extremely popular both as a houseplant and, in mild-winter climates, as an outdoor plant. And not only is amaryllis care easy - amaryllis is also very easy to propagate. The hardest part is deciding which method you want to try, since there are several ways to propagate amaryllis bulbs.

Best Methods of Amaryllis Propagation

Anyone who delights in the brilliant blossoms of their amaryllis may wonder whether they can propagate the plant. Propagating amaryllis is a fun and inexpensive way to increase the number of plants in your garden or home.

If you are wondering how to propagate amaryllis, you’ll have to sort through a variety of different methods. Which are the best methods of amaryllis propagation? That depends on what is more important to you: getting blooming flowers quickly or making many new plants at the same time. Planting amaryllis seeds will get you many different plants quickly, but it will take several years of amaryllis bulb care for any of the new plants to bloom.

When to Propagate Amaryllis

Now that you know that there are several ways to propagate amaryllis, it won't surprise you to find that there is a different “best time” to propagate for each different method of propagation. So you’ll first want to select the propagation method, then check on when to take action.

The ways you can propagate amaryllis are:

• By seeds
• By offsets
• By cuttage

If you decide to propagate by seed, you’ll want to act when the seed pods mature. This usually happens a month or so after the flower is pollinated. When the pods turn yellow, pick them from the plant. That is the time to remove and plant the seeds.

If you want to grow amaryllis bulbs from division, you need to remove and transplant the offsets - mini-bulbs that develop on the "parent" amaryllis bulbs during the growing season. Offsets should be removed and planted in the autumn when the foliage yellows.

Cuttage is a method of propagating amaryllis that involves slicing the bulb into several pieces and replanting each one. The best time to propagate from cuttage is several months after the amaryllis bulbs have flowered. Usually this is between July to November.

How to Propagate Amaryllis

1. Seeds

If you're opting for amaryllis seed propagation, keep your eye on the seed pods. When they turn yellow and split open, cut them off the plant. The seeds are dark and papery. Remove them from the pods and place them on moist, well-draining potting soil.

Cover them lightly with soil and keep them in partial shade until they germinate. At that point, start gradually increasing the amount of sunlight for the seedlings until they are in full sun. Then transplant them into the garden bed or another container. Note that it may take three to five years before the new plants blossom. In addition, the seeds are not certain to produce plants that look like the parent plant.

2. Bulbets

Look on the parent plant when the foliage yellows in the autumn. The bulblets are small amaryllis bulbs that grow on the parent plant. If they are at least one fourth as large as the parent bulb, they are ready to transplant. Lift the entire amaryllis bulb and roots out of the pot and gently separate the amaryllis bulbs by snapping off the bulblets. Each one can be replanted in a separate container – use containers about 1 or 2 inches (2.5-5cm) wider than the bulblets.

3. Cuttage/Chipping or Re-section:

This method of propagation involves making cuts through the amaryllis bulb vertically from top to root. The key to success is to be sure that every section includes a portion of the flat basal plate of the bulb. This is the scale portion, attached to the bottom of the bulb and it will induce the section to form a new amaryllis bulb with precisely the same color and pattern as the parent. Here's how to do it.

1. Peel off the paper layer on the outside of the bulb. Prune back the roots.
2. Remove the tip of the parent bulb to make the bulb rounder.
3. Set it on that flattened tip, then slice it into several pieces, leaving a piece of the basal plate of the bulb. A large amaryllis bulb can be cut into some 10 equal sections.
4. Allow these slices to dry for 12 hours to prevent rot. You can also coat each one with a fungicide solution.
5. Mix one part water to 10 parts vermiculite, perlite or peat moss and fill a container with the mix.
6. Put all sections into the medium with the basal plate down, then put the container in a plastic bag and seal it shut.
7. Store it in a warm area for three months, checking it regularly to pick out any pieces that are rotting.
8. Over time, the amaryllis bulb layers in the slices will separate to allow new bulblets form in between them just above the basal plate.
9. When the bulblets form, transplant each section in a small pot in potting soil with good drainage. Plant it a little below the soil surface but make sure the original bulb layers are still exposed since they will rot away over time.
10. Count on several years before the bulblets may flower.

Once the bloom fades it is time to start the steps on how to get amaryllis to rebloom. Amaryllis grow from large bulbs and produce even larger flowers. The bulbs must be plump, unblemished, and healthy to grow the arching, strappy leaves, and exotic blooms. Do amaryllis rebloom and will amaryllis rebloom this year? With a little amaryllis care and a few important steps, you can ensure more amaryllis flowers the following year and in a few cases, even the same year.

Do Amaryllis Rebloom?

Amaryllis bulbs are native to South Africa. They have no frost tolerance and must be grown where temperatures are warm. They are excellent houseplants and produce unmatched color in the form of huge blooms in winter.

Can an amaryllis rebloom? Often if you cut the spent flower stems off, the plant will produce another flush of flowers. These will usually be smaller, and on shorter stems than the first blooms. Wait to cut the stem until it has begun to yellow since the stalk can photosynthesize and produce energy.

How to Get Amaryllis to Rebloom

Amaryllis plants produce flowers in the cool season, when light is low and temperatures are cooler. A single amaryllis bulb has the capacity to rebloom annually for years, but it needs to be treated right so the bulb remains healthy and has plenty of stored energy. The amaryllis will gather energy through photosynthesis and store plant sugars in the bulb. This stored energy will fuel the following year’s formation of flowers.

You'll need to do regular amaryllis feeding and watering, and may want to move the plant outside for spring and summer. Once the warm period is over, it is time to start the process on how to get amaryllis to bloom again.

Care for Amaryllis After Blooming

Once you have removed the amaryllis flower stalks, keep the plant in the same container. Even if it looks like it has outgrown the pot, amaryllis actually prefer to be snugly tucked into their containers. The perfect container will be no more than 2 inches ( 5 cm.) wider than the diameter of the bulb.

The ideal amaryllis soil is a soilless medium that drains well, ensuring the bulb doesn’t rot. Fertilize every 2-4 weeks with a diluted houseplant food. Water the amaryllis when the top surface of the soil feels dry.

If you choose to move your amaryllis outdoors, gradually get it used to brighter light so the leaves don’t burn. At the end of summer, move the amaryllis back indoors to a cool, dark location. Don't water it, and generally just ignore it.

Once the leaves have turned yellow and are limp, cut them off. After 10-12 weeks, move the amaryllis back to a bright location and resume watering. If the bulb has stored enough energy, you should see new amaryllis flowers emerging in 4-6 weeks.

Frequently Asked Questions

Amaryllis is a quintessential holiday flower. Easy to package and ready to bloom in winter, it might just be the number one Christmas plant gift. But if you've received an amaryllis as a gift, you might not know what comes next. Or maybe you do! Maybe you're a seasoned gardener, but you've got a question or two.

Either way, there's plenty of info in store for you here, including a step by step planting guide, a year-long care calendar, and a variety guide. So let's dive in and learn about this classic bulb type!

Quick Amaryllis Facts

Amaryllis Plant Care

You can get yourself an already-blooming amaryllis plant, but the most common way to buy one is as a dormant bulb, often in a cardboard box with a little pot and some soil. At least that's how mine comes every Christmas. For example, this Elegant Sparticus Amaryllis Gift Growing Kit from Amazon comes with a ceramic pot, bulb and burlap bag. Here's a step-by-step guide to get you started.

Step-By-Step Planting Guide

1. Choose a heavier container to keep your amaryllis from becoming top-heavy and tipping over. It should be only 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) wider in diameter than the bulb itself.
2. Cover the bottom of the pot with a well-draining potting mix. When you set the bulb on the soil, its shoulders should just clear the top of the pot.
3. Fill potting mix in around the bulb. Make sure to leave 1/3 to 1/2 of the top of the bulb exposed.
4. Pat the potting mix down firmly.
5. Water the bulb until water flows freely out of the drainage hole.
6. Place your potted amaryllis in a warm spot with bright, indirect light.

Light Requirements

Just after planting the bulb, place the container in a spot with bright indirect light. A sunny window is ideal. Once the flower starts to form, though, you should move it to a slightly less bright location to prolong the blooming period.

Water

Watering can be slightly tricky with amaryllis plants. When you first plant the bulb, you should water it thoroughly. After that, though, it doesn't need nearly as much water. In fact, overwatering can lead to amaryllis bulb rot. While your amaryllis is growing, you should only watering it when the surface of the soil is dry to the touch. Consider picking up a simple moisture meter on Amazon to ensure optimal moisture.

When it's time for your amaryllis to go dormant (we'll cover this more below in the reblooming section), it's essential that you not water it at all. The whole object is to mimic the dry season of the plant's natural habitat.

While they can't stay in the environment long-term, it's actually possible to grow amaryllis in water!

Temperature

Warm temperatures between 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit (21-24 C) will promote the best growth. After the plant flowers it prefers cooler temperatures, closer to 65 F. (18 C). You can use a seedling heat mat (from Amazon) to set the exact temperature your amaryllis needs.

Soil

Choosing soil for amaryllis plants isn't complicated – standard potting soil will work just fine. So will that expandable brick of growing medium that might have come with your bulb. If you want something a little fancier, Back to the Roots has an organic option on Amazon.

You can always make your own potting mix as well. 2 parts of loam with 1 part perlite and 1 part compost makes for a good growing medium.

Fertilizer

Some gardeners recommend feeding amaryllis plants with a slow release fertilizer at planting time, but this can be dangerous. Fertilizing a bulb with no leaves can actually kill the roots!

Instead, fertilize your amaryllis twice per month with a houseplant formula that's been diluted according to the package instructions. Use a 5-10-10 or 10-10-10 ratio. We recommend this MARPHYL Organic Fertilizer from Amazon.

Problems, Pests, & Diseases

Amaryllis bulbs grown indoors have few pest issues, but overwatering can make the bulb rot. Before you plant your bulb, make sure it's plump and free of defects, or you'll be fighting an uphill battle from day one.

Here are a few common amaryllis problems:

• Mealybugs may infest plants that are moved outdoors for summer. Wipe the leaves with rubbing alcohol or use a horticultural oil spray.
• A common commercial disease is red blotch, also known as amaryllis leaf scorch. It's a fungal disease that attacks leaves and stems with red streaks. Use a systemic fungicide to combat it.
• Amaryllis southern blight appears first as yellow and wilting leaves, followed by white fungus around the stem.
• If your amaryllis is all leaves and no flowers, it might need to enter its dormant period before it can bloom again. It's also possible that the soil is too nitrogen-rich, or it's being kept in an area that is too shady.
• Drooping amaryllis leaves could be caused by too little light, too much fertilizer, or improper watering. If it's been a while since it's bloomed, it might also simply be entering its dormant period.

What to do with an Amaryllis after It Blooms

Amaryllis care after flowering doesn't take much. Once the flowers have faded, you can cut back the flower stalks, but make sure to leave the leaves! The bulb needs them to gather and store energy through spring and summer. If you cut the leaves back before it's time, you'll get either weak flowers or no flowers next Christmas.

Keep watering your amaryllis and give it a boost of fertilizer in the spring. With regular watering, the leaves will stay green all summer.

Once temperatures have warmed up to the plant's preferred range (in the 70s F even at night) you can move it outside to soak up the sun. Just make sure to bring it back in before temperatures dip at all.

How to Make an Amaryllis Rebloom

If you want your amaryllis to bloom again, you'll have to trick it into entering dormancy.

Amaryllis plants grow from large, round bulbs, and unlike lots of other common bulb types, they don't require chilling! They're native to tropical and subtropical regions, and won't fare well at all if they're subjected to freezing temperatures.

They do, however, need a period of "rest" in a cool, dry spot with no watering for 8-10 weeks in order to flower. This mimics the dry season in their natural environment, and kick starts the growth cycle all over again.

This process should start in late summer or early fall, basically 8-12 weeks before you want it to bloom. Basically, if you want flowers for Christmas, you should start in early September.

1. Stop watering and fertilizing your amaryllis. This will trigger dormancy and cause the leaves to die back naturally.
2. Once the leaves have withered, cut them back.
3. Move the potted bulb to a cool (50-55 F/10-13 C), dark spot like a garage or a dry basement.
4. Leave the bulb in this spot for 8 weeks and ignore it. RESIST THE URGE TO WATER IT! What it needs from you right now is neglect.
5. After 8 weeks, move the bulb to a warm, bright spot and give it a watering. New growth should start to emerge.
6. Water only when the soil is dry, and watch your new flowers grow!

Amaryllis Care Calendar

Propagation

Amaryllis seed propagation is possible, but the resulting plants can take up to 14 years to flower. Amaryllis bulb propagation is much easier, and store-bought bulbs are readily available in a wide variety of colors, sizes, and flower forms. These are the most direct routes to enjoying the amazing, huge flowers.

You may also try cuttage. This is where the bulb is cut into 4 sections and planted with the root end down. Cover 1/3 of the cuttings with peat moss or perlite. Keep the pot in a shaded location and warm and moist. In about 4 weeks each cutting should root.

Divide amaryllis bulbs that are growing outdoors in autumn or early spring.

Repotting

Amaryllis enjoys being pot bound, but it will require a soil change every 2-3 years. After several years even it will outgrow its home, and it'll need a new pot. Select a container only slightly larger than the circumference of the bulb. Use a well draining medium and water the soil well to settle it around the roots. The best time for repotting amaryllis plants is after the dormant stage in fall, or in early spring.

Varieties

Amaryllis flowers come in a wide variety of colors. You can get red, pink, apricot, burgundy, white, or multi-color, single petal or double petal. Since they're such a popular commodity, they're constantly being bred and spliced into exciting new cultivars. Currently there are more than 500 types of amaryllis, but that number is always going up.

Here are some of the most popular varities:

• Apple Blossom
• Christmas Star
• Charisma
• Monaco
• Double Dream
• Marilyn
• Stargazer

Frequently Asked Questions

Amaryllis Care Essentials