If you have access to an apricot tree or two you, might end up with more fruit than you can eat. So what do you do when you’ve eaten and given away all the fresh fruit you can? Can you freeze apricots? What about drying them? Keep reading to learn about freezing apricots, how to make apricot preserves and how to dry apricots for long term storage.

How to Preserve Apricots

When you’re sick of fresh apricots and the neighbors want nothing more to do with them but you still have plenty of fruit, you will need to preserve them. (You could always compost them, but that would be a shame).

There are three basic ways to preserve fresh apricots: freeze them, make apricot preserves, or dry them. You could also juice, can or make syrup out of them, but for the moment we will focus on the previous three methods.

How to Freeze Apricots

Frozen apricots may be frozen with or without sugar and may be frozen halved, sliced or pureed. Prior to freezing you must prep the fruit.

Select firm but fully ripe fruit. Wash, halve and pit the apricots. Peeling and slicing is optional. If the fruit is not peeled, heat it in boiling water for half a minute to keep the skin from toughening as it freezes. After half a minute in boiling water, plunge into ice water to cool and then drain.

Methods for Freezing Apricots

Prepare the fruit for freezing using one of the following methods.

Unsweetened Dry Pack:

Dissolve ¼ tsp (750 mg.) ascorbic acid in ¼ cup cold water for each quart of fruit. Toss with fruit.

Sugar Pack:

As above toss the fruit with dissolved ascorbic acid. Mix ½ cup (100 g.) of sugar with 1 quart (950 ml.) of sliced fruit.

In both cases pack the apricots leaving ½ inch to 1 inch (1-2.5 cm.) of headspace (headspace depends upon the size container you use). If using plastic freezer bags, remove as much air as possible. Seal your containers.

Syrup (Liquid) Pack:

For tangy fruits like apricots, a 40-50% syrup should be used. You will need about ½ cup (100 g.) syrup for each pint of fruit. Stir the sugar into lukewarm water until all the sugar has dissolved. Chill the syrup, which can be made a day ahead and kept in the fridge until ready to use. Add ¾ tsp (4 ml.) of ascorbic acid per quart of cooled syrup.

Fill your container ¼ full with syrup and then fill with sliced apricots, pressing down firmly. Cover with additional syrup as needed, again leaving headspace appropriate to the container size. If you’re using plastic freezer type bags, remove as much air as possible. Seal the containers.

Label and date frozen fruit. Fruit can be stored in the freezer for up to a year.

How to Dry Apricots

Select firm fruit. Wash, cut in half and pit. Do not peel. To prevent browning, toss apricots with ascorbic acid as above, or citrus juice and water. Allow them to soak for 5 minutes. Omit this step if you don’t care if the fruit changes color. Drain the fruit.

Arrange apricots on dehydrator racks, cut side up. Dry at 130-150 F. (54–65.5 C.) for 24-36 hours for halves, less time for quartered fruit. Dried fruit will be leathery and pliable.

You can also dry your apricots into fruit leather after pureeing the fruit. Follow the directions provided by the manufacturer for your dehydrator.

Label and store dried fruit in sealed plastic containers or bags in a cool, dry area or in the fridge or freezer for 6-12 months.

Apricot Preserve Recipe

There are many recipes for apricot preserves. The following is as simple as it gets with just four ingredients and 30 minutes of your time.

You will need:

• 5.5 lb. (2.5 kg) fresh apricots
• ¼ cup (60 ml) water
• ¼ cup (60 ml) lemon juice
• 4 lb. (1.8 kg) granulated sugar

Wash the jars, dry, upend on a cookie sheet and sterilize in an oven at 270 F. (130 C.) for 20 minutes.

Wash and dry apricots. Cut in half and remove pit. Place the prepped apricots, water and lemon juice in large, wide saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally.

When the apricots come to a simmer, cover and cook for an additional 10-15 minutes, stirring frequently. At this juncture if you wish for a smoother preserve, remove from the heat and puree with a hand blender.

Otherwise, dissolve the sugar into the apricot mixture, stirring constantly. With the lid off, increase the heat and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally so it doesn’t stick. The mixture will reduce and thicken as it cooks. Skim off any foam with a spoon.

After 20 minutes or so, check the temp of the preserves. It should be 220 F. (104 C.) and thick.

Remove it from the heat and allow cooling for 10 minutes. Carefully ladle into the hot, sterilized jars. Seal immediately with sterile lids.

Ah, the glorious apricot harvest. We wait much of the growing season for the sweet, golden blushed fruits. Apricots are known for their delicacy and are, therefore, harvested before fully ripe. An apricot post-harvest is often subjected to crowding, bumping, and jostling, which can bruise the fruit. A few apricot handling tips can help you store your fruit to perfection and enjoy it weeks down the line. Read on to learn how to store apricots for the best harvest ever.

Apricot Handling Tips

Commercial growers must pay special attention to packing, temperature, and humidity when storing apricots for the market. Apricots must also be kept separate from fruits that emit ethylene, which will hasten their ripening and diminish quality by the time they arrive at stores. Home gardeners must also be sensitive to these issues if they want their hard earned fruits to last.

Think of apricots as almost egg-like in their delicacy. Bruises, fruit wounds, and fungal problems can follow improper harvest and post-harvest care of apricots. The timing of harvest will vary depending upon cultivar and zone but, in general, you should pick them when still yellowish green. Once the green fruits are starting to turn golden, it is time to harvest.

Next, it is important to pack them carefully to avoid bruising, as the fruits brush against each other and the container. Foam eggshell forms, newspaper, and other cushioning items can be used to soften the storage bed used for storing apricots after harvesting. Never stack more than two layers to avoid crushing the fruits.

Commercial growers will either hydro or room cool apricots prior to packing to increase shelf life, but this isn't necessarily practical for the home grower.

How to Store Apricots

After careful packing, you must meet certain environmental conditions for storing apricots after harvesting. The optimum temperatures for holding apricots are 31 to 32 degrees F. (-0.5 to 0 C.) Avoid anywhere that freezing may occur.

The relative humidity should range between 90 and 95%. Do not place the crates or boxes near areas in which you are also storing apples, plums, pears, or peaches because they release ethylene gas.

Post-harvest care of apricots isn't difficult, but you must adhere to a few rules in order to preserve the crop. With certain cultivars, you can expect fresh fruit to keep one to two weeks, while others last up to four weeks.

Adhering to the environmental and storage rules for apricot post-harvest care will ensure that you enjoy apricots for a long time after the tree is bare.

Apricots are little juicy gems you can eat in about two bites. Growing a couple apricot trees in your backyard orchard is not difficult and can provide you with an abundant annual harvest. There are a few things you’ll need to know, like why feeding apricot trees is important and how or when to do it to ensure healthy, productive trees.

Growing and Fertilizing Apricots

Apricot trees can be grown in USDA zones 5 through 8, which includes most of the U.S. They are more susceptible to spring frost damage than peaches and nectarines, though, and may suffer from very hot summers. Apricots need full sun and well-drained soil, but they do not need pollinators. Most varieties are self-pollinating, so you can get away with growing just one tree.

Fertilizing apricots is not always necessary. If you see adequate growth in your tree, you may not need to feed it. Good growth is 10 to 20 inches (25 to 50 cm.) on new growth for young trees and 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm.) for mature and older trees each year.

When to Feed Apricot Trees

Do not fertilize your young apricot tree in its first year or two. After that, when the tree has begun to bear fruit, you may use a nitrogen fertilizer or one that is specific to stone fruit during the spring blooming season. Avoid application of apricot fertilizer later than July.

How to Fertilize an Apricot Tree

Fruit trees are more likely to need nitrogen if they need any feeding at all. This is usually the limiting factor in nutrients. In sandy soil, apricots may become deficient in zinc and potassium. It’s not a bad idea to test your soil before fertilizing. This will give you a better idea of what your soil and tree actually need. Contact your local extension office for a soil analysis.

If you do need to feed your trees, apply about one half to one cup (118 to 236 ml.) of fertilizer for young trees and one to two cups for mature trees. Also, check the application instructions for the specific fertilizer you are using.

Apply the fertilizer along the dripline and water it immediately into the soil to avoid nutrient loss. The dripline is the circle around a tree under the tips of branches. This is where rain drips down to the ground and where the tree will best absorb the nutrients applied.

Although its name may spark thoughts of tasty apricots, the Japanese apricot is planted for its ornamental beauty rather than its fruit. The tree’s small stature also makes it a great addition in many home landscapes. Read on to learn more about Japanese apricot trees.

What is a Japanese Apricot?

Japanese apricot trees are ornamental trees with many features. Their scientific name is Prunus mume, and they are native to Korea. Varieties of this tree include:

• ‘Benishidare’
• ‘Bonita’
• ‘Peggy Clarke’
• ‘Alba’

They can be 12 to 20 feet (4-6 m.) tall with a spread of 15 to 20 feet (4.5-6 m.) wide. Japanese apricot trees have a round shaped crown of leaves with a serrate margin, alternate arrangement, and a leaf blade of 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) in length. Its most recognized ornamental feature, however, is the fragrant winter-blooming flowers that come in different colors.

This ornamental fruit tree, also known as Japanese flowering apricot, blooms in white, pink, or red flowers which are extremely fragrant – like spicy-sweet cloves. The apricot-like fruit is round and yellow, 1 to 3 inches (2.5-8 cm.) in diameter, and attracts birds. While edible, it is sour with thin flesh but is prized in Asia as a pickled fruit.

Although they are native to Asia, Japanese apricot trees grow hardy in zones 6 through 8 in the United States. They provide aesthetics in parking lots and median strips on highways, as well as the home landscape.

How to Grow Japanese Apricot

There are various methods for growing Japanese apricot trees, with seeds and grafting most common.

Seeds of ripened apricot fruit can be propagated. Stratification of the seeds involves keeping them in mixtures of sand and sphagnum moss in the refrigerator for three months. After the seed stratification, they can be sown outdoors in the spring season.

Grafting by T or chip-budding is another option to consider when cultivating these trees.

Japanese Apricot Tree Care

Japanese apricot tree care is vital to the growth of the tree. The trees grow best in well drained, fertile, acidic soils with extra organic matter. Care also involves planting in full sun; if it is grown in shade, it can hinder the development of its blossoms.

Pruning Japanese apricot trees also helps with optimum flowering.

Knowing and preventing infestation of the pests to Japanese apricots is a way of encouraging healthy trees. Aphids cause distortion of new growth. Borers attack stressed trees; apply fertilizer regularly to prevent attacks. Tent caterpillars create large webs in trees and then eat the leaves.

Homegrown apricots are so much better than anything you can get in the store. If you grow them yourself though, you have to contend with all kinds of problems you don’t see in the produce aisle. Apricots are prone to several serious diseases, and it’s vital to know how to fight them. Keep reading to learn more about what causes apricot brown rot and how to combat brown rot on apricot trees.

What Causes Apricot Brown Rot?

Apricot brown rot is caused by the fungus Monilinia fructicola, a fungus that affects most stone fruits. Apricot brown rot symptoms start appearing in the spring, soon after blossoms open. The blossoms turn brown and die, sap exudes from the flower bases, and brown cankers may form on the adjacent twigs.

Fruit set will be much lower than normal. Young apricots are usually unaffected, but as the fruits mature, they become more susceptible. They will develop soft brown spots that spread and become covered in powdery spores. The fruit will rot quickly and become mummified, often remaining attached to the stem.

How to Prevent Brown Rot on Apricot Trees

Since the fungus spreads easily and remains present in cankers and mummified fruits, it’s important to keep trees cleared of infection. Remove all mummified apricots with brown rot from the tree and beneath, and prune away any stems with cankers.

Pest control is also crucial, as insect bites damage the fruits and give the fungus easy access. Fungicidal spray is very effective, especially for apricots, which are especially prone to brown rot during the blossoming phase. It’s recommended that you spray once before blossom, and once again during blossom if the weather is warm.

After harvest, it’s best to store apricots as close to freezing as possible to prevent the spread of spores that might be present.

The Armenian plum tree is a species of the genus Prunus. However, the fruit called Armenian plum is actually the most commonly cultivated apricot species. The Armenian plum (commonly called “apricot”) is the national fruit of Armenia and has been cultivated there for centuries. Read on for more Armenian plum facts, including the “apricot vs. Armenian plum” issue.

What is an Armenian Plum?

If you read up on Armenian plum facts, you learn something confusing: that the fruit actually goes by the common name of “apricot.” This species is also known as ansu apricot, Siberian apricot, and Tibetan apricot. The different common names attest to the ambiguity of the origins of this fruit. Since the apricot was extensively cultivated in the prehistoric world, its native habitat is uncertain. In modern times, most trees growing in the wild have escaped from cultivation. You can only find pure stands of the trees in Tibet.

Is an Armenian Plum an Apricot?

So, is an Armenian plum an apricot? In fact, although the fruit tree is in the subgenus Prunophors within the genus Prunus together with the plum tree, we know the fruits as apricots. Since plums and apricots fall within the same genus and subgenus, they can be cross-bred. This has been done in recent times. Many say that the hybrids produced the aprium, plumcot, and the pluot, finer fruits than either parent.

Armenian Plum Facts

Armenian plums, better known as apricots, grow on small trees that are usually kept under 12 feet (3.5 m.) tall when cultivated. Their branches extend into wide canopies. Apricot flowers look a lot like the blossoms of stone fruit like peach, plum, and cherry. The flowers are white and grow in clusters. Armenian plum trees are self-fruitful and do not require a pollinizer. They are pollinated largely by honey bees. Apricot trees don’t bear substantial amounts of fruit until three to five years after planting. The fruit of the Armenian plum trees are drupes, about 1.5 to 2.5 inches (4-6 cm.) wide. They are yellow with a red blush and have a smooth pit. Flesh is mostly orange. According to Armenian plum facts, the fruits take between three and six months to develop, but the main harvest takes place between May 1st and July 15th in places like California.

Apricot phytophthora root rot is a serious disease that is difficult to control. Phytophthora on apricots is impossible to detect aboveground prior to a significant portion of the root system having been killed off. What causes apricot phytophthora rot? Are there any effective control methods for apricot trees with phytophthora rot? The following article contains information about the symptoms and disease cycle of phytophthora root rot of apricots.

What Causes Apricot Phytophthora Rot?

Several species of phytophthora cause crown and root rot of a wide array of trees and shrubs including members of the Prunus genus like cherry, peach and apricot. Apricot phytophthora rot is fostered by orchards planted on poorly draining soil. Phytophthora root rot of apricots is a fungal disease that kills tiny rootlets and progresses to larger and larger roots until it reaches the crown of the tree. Because the disease is underground attacking the roots, it is often too late by the time symptoms manifest above ground.

Signs of Phytophthora Root Rot of Apricots

Above ground symptoms of an apricot tree with phytophthora rot present in the canopy. They include wilting, early fall color (senescence), smaller than normal foliage, and leaf and branch dieback. All of these are indicative of a lack of water and minerals being taken up by the tree. Severely infected trees have stunted shoots and canopy dieback. Newly transplanted trees with the infection usually have little to no new growth and an overall general decline in health. Phytophthora on apricots can best be diagnosed by looking at the cambium at the root crown. Infected cambium and primary lateral roots will be tan to cinnamon-brown in color instead of off white. There will be a lack of feeder roots accompanied by black, decaying roots.

Management of Phytophthora on Apricots

Phytophthora lives in the soil and thrives in wet conditions. This species produces an asexual swimming sport that can spread throughout waterways. It can survive in the soil for years but cannot live for any length of time in dead plant material. As mentioned, the disease is extremely difficult to control. Avoid purchasing nursery stock that shows any of the canopy signs mentioned. Examine the roots prior to planting for any evidence of the disease. Avoid planting susceptible hosts in wet soil or annually flooded areas. If the disease can be pinpointed in its infancy (which is difficult to accomplish), soil drench fungicides can slow the development of the disease. They are not, however, always effective. Minimize transplant shock to the root system by planting at the proper depth and prepping the planting area. Keep the tree healthy by providing regular irrigation and by mulching around the tree base. Unfortunately, phytophthora is a widespread species making eradication impossible in soil that is routinely wet or flooded. Avoid planting in any areas where the disease has a history including old orchard sites.

Rhizopus rot, also known as bread mold, is a serious problem that can affect ripe apricots, particularly after harvest. While it can be devastating if left untreated, apricot rhizopus rot is relatively easy to prevent. Keep reading to learn more about what causes apricot rhizopus rot and how to control it.

What Causes Apricot Rhizopus Rot?

Rhizopus rot of apricot trees is a fungal disease caused by the fungus Rhizopus stolonifer. It affects stone fruits such as peaches, nectarines, and apricots, and it most commonly strikes when fruit is ripe, often after it has been harvested or allowed to get overly ripe on the tree. The fungal spores live and thrive in debris on the orchard floor, especially in rotting, fallen fruit. Over the course of the growing season, spores will build up and eventually become airborne, spreading through the fruit on the tree. The fungus spreads most quickly in wet, warm conditions, with an ideal temperature of 80 F. (27 C.).

Recognizing Rhizopus Rot of Apricot Symptoms

Early signs of rhizopus rot are small, brown lesions that quickly darken to black and produce fluffy, whiskered strands that spread across the surface of the fruit and darken from white to gray to black over time. Rhizopus is similar in appearance to brown rot, another disease that plagues apricots. Unlike those with brown rot, however, apricots with rhizopus rot will easily slough their skin off if finger pressure is applied. This is a good tip for diagnosing the two diseases correctly.

Rhizopus Apricot Control

Since rhizopus rot only affects very ripe apricots, it’s relatively easy to time the treatment correctly. Shortly before harvesting, you can spray your trees with fungicide marked for rhizopus rot control. This should keep the spores in check. Note that this is effective only if applied before harvest. A very effective and easy post-harvest solution is refrigeration. Rhizopus spores will not grow or spread at temperatures lower than 40 F. (4 C.). By chilling apricots immediately after harvest, it’s possible to protect fruit even if it has already been infected.

Root knot nematodes are tiny, parasitic roundworms that live in the soil, where they feed on the roots of at least 2,000 different plant species, including apricots and other stone fruits. Controlling root knot nematodes of apricot involves a combination of approaches, including planting disease-resistant varieties, along with sanitation and other cultural practices. Read on to learn more about apricot nematode problems.

Apricots with Root Knot Nematodes

Root knot nematodes of apricot penetrate roots with a sharp, spear-like mouth part and suck out the contents. When one cell has been depleted, the nematodes move on to new cells. Apricot nematode problems are often compounded because the damage caused by the nematodes creates an easy entry for many types of bacteria and fungi. Root knot nematodes of apricot aren’t visible above soil level, but when the pests feed on the roots, symptoms may show up as stunted growth, wilting, pale leaves, or twig dieback. The symptoms often mimic those of dehydration or other problems that prevent the tree from taking up water and nutrients. Signs of apricot nematode problems are more apparent on tree roots, which may display hard, swollen knots, or galls, as well as stunted growth and, in some cases, rot. Root knot nematodes of apricot move through the soil very slowly on their own, traveling only a few feet (1 m.) per year. However, the pests are transported from place to place quickly when they hitch a ride on contaminated plant material or farm equipment, or in water run-off from irrigation or rain.

Apricot Nematode Treatment

Preventing apricots with root knot nematodes is the best defense. Plant only certified nematode-free apricot seedlings. Work generous amounts of compost or other organic matter into the soil at planting time to improve soil quality and maintain healthy trees. Sanitize garden equipment thoroughly with a weak bleach solution before and after working in affected soil to prevent pests from being transported on tools. Be aware that root knot nematodes of apricot can also be transported on vehicle tires or shoes. Avoid any activity that moves infected plant material or soil into unaffected areas. Provide apricot trees with sufficient water, especially during hot weather and periods of drought. However, water carefully to avoid soil runoff. Remove dead plant matter from the area and dispose of it properly, especially tree roots. There are no recognized apricot nematode treatments for the home garden. Orchardists often use nematicides, but the products are very expensive and not usually available for non-commercial growers.

Peach scab on apricots results from the fungus Cladosporium carpophilum. It also affects nectarines, plums, and peaches. Most apricots with peach scab are those grown in home orchards since commercial growers take precautions to prevent it. Read on for tips on how to stop apricot scab from ruining your backyard fruit production.

Apricots with Peach Scab

Anyone hoping for luscious, juicy apricots from the home orchard needs to know about peach scab on apricots. This fungal disease is also called “freckles,” since small dots show up on the fruit. You find peach scab on apricots more often after a warm, wet spring. The fungus creates lesions on young twigs where the spores overwinter. These spores cause spring infections as the weather warms. They grow fastest at temperatures of about 65 to 75 degrees F. (18-24 C.). But you won’t necessarily see symptoms immediately after infection, however. They may show up as long as 70 days later. Still, you can and should start apricot scab treatment earlier.

How to Stop Apricot Scab

Treating apricot scab starts with making good choices about where to plant your apricots and how to care for them. Perhaps the most important thing to remember is to keep apricot and other susceptible trees out of low-lying sites with poor air and soil drainage. Another good prevention tip to stop apricot scab is to prune trees carefully to open up the center. If you use the open-center pruning system, it provides good air circulation within the canopy that slows or stops fungus activity. Don’t spend too much time looking for a scab-resistant apricot cultivar. Most experts agree that cultivars are all susceptible to this fungal disease. If you require further apricot scab treatment, look to fungicides. Fungicides are the big weapon in treating apricot scab. You’ll need to find a fungicide recommended for this disease, then spray according to label directions. Often, you’ll need to spray every two weeks from the time the petals fall until 40 days before harvest. The most critical time to spray when you are treating apricot scab is from the time of shuck split to five weeks after bloom.

Armillaria root rot of apricots is a deadly disease for this fruit tree. There are no fungicides that can control the infection or cure it, and the only way to keep it out of your apricot and other stone fruit trees is to prevent the infection in the first place.

What is Apricot Armillaria Root Rot?

This disease is a fungal infection and is also known as apricot mushroom root rot and apricot oak root rot. The fungal species that causes the disease is called Armillaria mellea and it deeply infects the roots of the tree, spreading through fungal networks to the healthy roots of other trees. In affected orchards, trees tend to die in a circular pattern as the fungus makes its way further outward each season.

Symptoms of Apricot Armillaria Root Rot

Apricots with armillaria rot will show a lack of vigor and within about a year they will die, most often in spring. Most of the characteristic signs of this particular disease are in the roots. Above ground the symptoms can be easily confused with other types of root rot: leaf curling and wilting, branch dieback, and dark cankers on large branches. For the definitive signs of armillaria, look for white mats, the mycelial fans that grow between the bark and wood. On the roots, you will see rhizomorphs, the black, stringy, fungal filaments that are white and cottony on the inside. You may also see brown mushrooms growing around the base of the affected tree.

Managing Armillaria Root Rot of Apricots

Unfortunately, once the disease is in a tree it cannot be saved. The tree will die and should be removed and destroyed. It is also very difficult to manage an area where the infection has been found. It is nearly impossible to eliminate it from the soil entirely. To attempt to do so, remove stumps and all large roots from affected trees. There are no fungicides that can control armillaria. To avoid or prevent this disease in apricot and other stone fruit trees, it is important to avoid putting trees in the ground if there is a history of armillaria or in areas of recently cleared forest. Only one rootstock for apricot, Marianna 2624, has some resistance to the fungus. It is not immune to the disease, but along with other preventative measures, it can reduce the risk of getting the disease in your backyard orchard.

Waterlogging is exactly what it sounds like. Waterlogged apricot trees are generally planted in poorly drained soil which leaves roots soaked and drowning. Waterlogged apricot roots causes the death of the roots and decline of the tree. Once this happens, it is difficult to fix, but the issue is very easy to prevent.

Recognizing Apricot Waterlogging Problems

It can often be difficult to figure out what ails your fruit tree. Fungal issues, cultural, environmental, pests, other diseases, the list goes on. Stone fruits are often susceptible to waterlogging. Can apricots become waterlogged? They are not as likely to suffer from the condition as peaches and nectarines but may be affected. It is important to recognize the first symptoms if any attempt to aid the tree in time can be effective. Waterlogged apricot trees will first show signs in the foliage. Leaves turn yellow or bronze-purple. In time, the tree will drop the leaves. If you were to dig up the roots, they would be black, oozing, and smell rather terrible. This is because they are essentially rotting in pooled water. Waterlogged apricot roots can no longer bring up water and nutrients and the loss of leaves affects the plants ability to gather solar energy to turn into plant sugars. Both issues cause the decline of the tree, which may take some time but eventually it will die.

What Causes Apricot Waterlogging?

When roots are too close to the water table, soil does not drain well and poor irrigation practices are in place, waterlogging can occur. It is important to check the drainage of a site prior to planting a tree of any kind. When soil is waterlogged, all air pockets are displaced, depriving the plant of oxygen. Plant roots are now operating in an anaerobic condition which reduces nutrient uptake but also causes excess toxins to accumulate and organic matter to deplete from soil. Potentially damaging hormone production is also increased.

Fixing Apricot Waterlogging Problems

If possible, it is best to approach waterlogging prior to planting. Checking soil porosity and incorporating compost and gritty material can help drainage. Terraces or planting on a hilled area or raised bed are also effective. Avoid planting in clay soil which holds water and does not percolate. If damage is already occurring, dig soil away from roots and replace with grittier material. Dig French drains or trenches to direct water away from the tree. Be careful about excess watering. Good cultural care can ensure a strong tree that can recover from brief periods of waterlogging, as can purchasing an apricot tree grafted onto plum rootstock, where some tolerance has been exhibited.

Apricot bacterial canker disease is a disease that attacks apricot trees, as well as other stone fruit. The bacteria often enter the tree through pruning wounds. Anyone growing fruit in a home orchard should learn something about apricots with bacterial canker. If you’d like information on treating apricot bacterial canker, read on.

Apricot Bacterial Canker Disease

Apricots with bacterial canker are hardly rare, and the apricot bacterial canker disease is widespread in most places. This is a disease that often enters apricot trees and other stone fruit trees through wounds, often gardener-inflicted pruning wounds. You’ll know that your tree has apricot bacterial canker disease if you see necrosis girdling a branch or trunk. Keep your eye out for branch dieback and cankers in spring. You’ll sometimes also notice leaf spot and blast of young growth and orange or red flecks under the bark just outside canker margins. The bacterium causing the disease is a fairly weak pathogen (Pseudomonas syringae). It is so weak that trees are only susceptible to serious damage when they in a weakened condition or else dormant. They can be damaged from leaf drop through leaf budding.

Bacterial Canker Control

The key to bacterial canker control is prevention; and preventing bacterial canker on apricots isn’t as difficult as you might think. Prevention is the best way of treating apricot bacterial canker. Apricots with bacterial canker are usually trees in one of two situations: trees in orchards where ring nematodes flourish and trees planted in areas that get spring frosts. Your best bet at preventing bacterial canker on apricots is to keep your trees in vigorous health and to control ring nematodes. Use any cultural practice that is likely to keep your tree healthy, like offering sufficient irrigation and feeding with nitrogen. Nematodes stress apricot trees, making them weaker. Control nematodes by using pre-plant fumigation for ring nematodes. When you think about treating apricot bacterial canker, think prevention. It’s not that hard to take an important step toward preventing bacterial canker on apricots. One proven method of bacterial canker control is to avoid winter pruning. The entire disease begins in winter, when the trees are susceptible to the bacteria. If you prune the apricot trees in spring, instead, you can largely avoid the issue. Evidence suggests that pruning during the dormant season makes apricot trees vulnerable to this disease. Instead, prune after the trees start active growth in spring.

Nothing beats the taste of freshly harvested fruit. Across the globe, stone fruit trees are some of the most popular additions to home orchards and small fruit tree plantings. These delicious fruit crops, which include apricots, peaches, and nectarines, are grown for fresh eating, canning, and even dehydrating. One key aspect to the production of a bountiful harvest is proper tree care and, of course, maintaining healthy conditions in the orchard. By doing so, growers are able to better avoid complications from various fungal issues, such as gummosis of apricots. Read on to learn more.

Apricot Fungal Gummosis

Fungal issues are among the most common problems which home orchard growers may encounter. One fungus, Botryosphaeria dothidea, is responsible for a condition known as apricot fungal gummosis. Though the name may imply its presence solely in apricot trees, other trees (such as peach trees) may also be affected. Gummosis of apricots results from prior damage or injury to trees within the orchard. The cause of injury may vary greatly, or result from a combination of events. Some natural causes of damage include limbs broken by strong storms, hail damage, high winds, or even injury caused by insects or borers. While uncommon in the home orchard, large scale operations may inadvertently cause damage during the harvest process or by various farm machinery. The fungus enters the tree through these injuries.

Symptoms of Apricots with Gummosis

Among the first signs of apricot fungal gummosis is the presence of “blister-like” lesions on branches and portions on the trunk of the tree. Growers may notice, over time, that tissues within these areas will begin to die. In many cases, a gum-like residue begins to be produced. As the damage grows larger, cankers begin to form on the tree. Fungal spores continue to grow and reproduce. Then they are spread during periods of wet and humid weather.

Controlling Apricot Gummosis

While damage caused by apricot gummosis can be reduced by the use of fungicides, this practice is generally not recommended, as it is not cost effective. The most common suggested course of action is to ensure that fruit trees do not become stressed in the first place. Maintaining a proper fertilization and irrigation regime are two important steps in this process. While the disease will still progress in plants which have been well cared for, trees will be less susceptible to other possible pathogens or insects which may attack weakened plants. As with many fungal diseases, one of the best strategies is prevention. While it may not always be possible to completely prevent apricot fungal gummosis, there are some ways in which growers can deter its spread. The use of proper pruning techniques is essential. Growers should never prune trees when the plants are wet. Directly after pruning infected trees, all tools used should be sanitized before using them elsewhere in the orchard. Additionally, cut branches and plant debris should be removed immediately.

If you are growing apricots in your home orchard, you anticipate munching the luscious golden fruit. But when you own this fruit tree, you also may have to deal with apricot rust fungus. Rust on apricot trees is the most common disease of this fruit tree. If you have or want apricot trees in your backyard, read on. We’ll give you information on apricots with rust fungus and techniques for controlling apricot rust.

Apricots with Rust Fungus

Rust on apricot trees is caused by the fungus Tranzschelia discolor. As the fungus name suggests, rust discolors the apricot leaves. Look for the first symptoms of apricot rust fungus on the bottom side of the leaf. Mahogany colored blisters appear there, with a corresponding yellow splotch on the top surface. Apricots with rust fungus lose their leaves early. They turn black and drop from the tree late in the season. The tree ends up without leaves earlier than if it had lost its leaves normally.

Damage from Apricot Rust Fungus

When you see rust on apricot trees, you might want to rush into apricot rust treatment. But keep in mind that apricots with rust fungus don’t die right away. In fact, small rust infestations may do no harm at all. Even severe infestations may damage the tree’s growth but don’t kill it. That means that you have time to figure out how to prevent rust before using chemical sprays. Taking steps to prevent the disease is really the best way of controlling apricot rust.

Apricot Rust Treatment

When you are thinking about controlling apricot rust, your best bet is to take steps to prevent conditions that encourage rust. Rust likes moisture and cool weather, so keep your trees in bright sunlight and spaced apart to allow air circulation. On top of that, prune your apricot trees so that as many leaves as possible get sunlight. Raking up fallen foliage is also an important part of controlling apricot rust. For future plantings, pick cultivars that are rust resistant. If rust returns year after year, you’ll have to use apricot rust treatment. Find a fungicide specifically made for apricot rust and use it according to label directions. Spraying starts in spring before the buds flower, then is repeated at regular intervals through the season. Note: Any recommendations pertaining to the use of chemicals are for informational purposes only. Organic approaches are safer and more environmentally friendly. Chemical controls should only be used as a last resort.

Shot hole disease can attack several types of fruit trees, but apricot is especially vulnerable. This fungal infection, previously called Coryneum blight, favors wet conditions, especially in the spring, and causes damage to buds, leaves, shoots, and fruit. Preventative steps are the best measures for managing this disease.

Identifying Shot Hole on Apricot Trees

Apricot shot hole fungus is Wilsonomyces carpophilus. It overwinters on buds that are infected and also on twigs. The spores on these parts of the tree can be transferred during winter and spring rains and when water splashes up from the ground. Those spores need 24 hours of moisture to set in and cause infection, so wet and humid conditions tend to lead to the spread of this disease. Apricots with shot hole disease may show a variety of symptoms, but the name comes from spots that develop on the leaves and then fall out, leaving round little holes behind. The first signs of apricot shot hole fungus disease on trees in the spring are purple spots on the new shoots, buds, and leaves. The spots on leaves that become holes begin small and often have a yellow or light green margin. Severe infections will cause the leaves to drop early, sometimes as early as in the spring. Extensive infection also begins to affect the fruit as it develops, causing scabby, rough spots that are concentrated on the top of the fruit and that may flake off and leave rough patches behind.

Apricot Shot Hole Control

Treating apricot shot hole disease once it has become advanced is difficult. The best measures begin with prevention. The disease is most common in wet conditions, so making sure trees are well spaced for airflow is crucial, as is regular apricot pruning to allow for circulation between branches. Avoid irrigation that causes water to splash up onto branches. If you do see signs of the disease, the best way to treat it is to apply an appropriate fungicide during the dormant season. This can help to minimize or prevent the disease from infecting healthy plant material in the spring and during the rainy and wet season. This can be done just after the leaves fall or right before buds break in the spring. You should also prune off and destroy and heavily diseased branches or twigs.

The sweet blush of ripe apricots and their tangy, juicy goodness are summer treats not to be missed. Unfortunately, we can't grow trees in a bubble and they are prey to many types of disease and pest problems. An apricot with crown gall is a cause for concern. What causes apricot crown gall and how do you recognize the signs? Further information will be revealed to help you know how to treat apricot crown gall and protect these wonderful fruits.

What Causes Apricot Crown Gall?

Galls are very common distortions on a wide variety of plants. They may come from disease abnormalities or from an insect. In the case of the crown gall of apricot, the pest is actually a bacterium. There are no chemical corrections for the disease, but it can be prevented fairly simply. The bacteria responsible is Agrobacterium tumefaciens (syn. Rhizobium radiobacter). The bacteria live in soil and survives for many seasons. It may also be harbored in infected plant tissue, even dropped leaves. It spreads through water splashed from the soil and easily spreads. Infections are acquired through injury in the tree's tissue. These may be from mechanical injury, animal damage, or insect activity. It often occurs at the plant's graft wound but also as an after-effect of pruning. Wounds must be less than 24 hours old to be susceptible to penetration from the bacteria which causes crown gall of apricot.

Apricot Crown Gall Symptoms

If your tree has tumor-like protrusions, it may be infected. Apricot crown gall symptoms appear within 10 to 14 days from infection. The bacteria cause cells to form abnormally and result in overgrowth on the roots and crown of the tree. An apricot with crown gall produces soft, spongy galls, very different from galls that occur from other sources. Galls are up to 4 inches (10 cm.) in diameter and begin white and fleshy but age to tan in color. The bacteria's action results in tissues that become disorganized and interrupt normal food and water distribution. Over time the tree will decline.

How to Treat Apricot Crown Gall

Commercial growers have access to a biological control, but it is not yet widely available for home gardeners. The best defense is to only plant certified disease-free plants. The disease is most prevalent in poorly drained, alkaline soil and where insect damage is possible. Plant and site selection, as well as crop rotation, are the most effective means of control. Prevent insect pests and rodent damage and provide good cultural care for a healthy tree that can survive the disease for years if it is accidentally introduced. It is important to prevent any injury to young plants as well, which are the most commonly affected.

Leucostoma canker generally isn’t a problem in healthy, actively growing apricot trees, but once infected, apricots with leucostoma canker are extremely difficult to control and can shorten tree life substantially. This stubborn disease, which also affects peaches, cherries, nectarines, and plums, is a serious problem worldwide, especially in cooler climates. Read on for more apricot leucostoma canker information.

What Causes Leucostoma in Apricots?

Leucostoma canker in apricots is caused by two related fungal pathogens: Leucostoma cinctum and Leucostoma persoonii. The pathogens invade the trees only through dead or wounded tissue, usually in late fall and early winter, or late winter and early spring. The disease can enter the tree through scars or injuries on small twigs and wounds on larger branches. The most common infection sites are insect injuries, pruning wounds, and bark or buds damaged or killed by winter cold. Damage by rodents and mechanical damage by equipment also creates an entryway for the disease.

Apricot Leucostoma Canker Symptoms

Diseased bark forms cankers and pimple-like growths that ooze copious amounts of amber gum. The cankers grow larger every year, gradually turning from dark brown to black, with a rotten smell. Usually, a callus forms around the damaged area, thus creating a protective wall. However, the canker may resume growth in late fall or early spring when the tree is dormant. The affected bark shrinks from surrounding healthy bark, eventually drying out, cracking, and sloughing from the tree. Twigs and branches die when they are completely girdled by the cankers. Leaves turn yellow, wilt, and die.

Treating an Apricot with Leucostoma Canker

There are no fungicides currently registered for use against apricot leucostoma canker symptoms, and the disease is notoriously difficult to control. However, the following tips may help prevent the disease, or at least keep it in check. Control pests, especially peach tree borer and oriental fruit moth, as the pests can do serious damage that allows the pathogen to enter. Wrap trees with plastic guards to deter rodents but be sure to remove the guards during the summer. Fertilize properly in early spring but avoid excessive fertilization. Avoid fertilizing late in the season, especially with high nitrogen fertilizers. Late fertilization results in succulent new growth that is highly susceptible to winter damage. Mound soil against the base of the tree to drain water away from the trunk. The soil will also help prevent ice buildup and injury by cold temperatures. Prune apricot trees correctly and at the proper time. Avoid severe pruning. Remove all damaged and dead growth. Burn it immediately to prevent the spread of pathogens. Water properly, using practices that prevent run-off. Careful watering practices are critical in irrigated orchards.

Growing your own fruit trees can be a highly rewarding endeavor. Nothing compares to the taste of fresh picked fruit. However, growing healthy and stress-free fruit trees does require a little bit of knowledge. Diagnosing and treating common fruit tree problems is an important key to crop management for home growers and commercial fruit producers. Knowing the signs and symptoms of diseases, such as bacterial spot on apricots, for instance, can help ensure healthier and more productive harvests.

Apricot Trees with Bacterial Spot

Bacterial spot is an infection caused by the bacterium, Xanthomonas pruni. Though the name may imply that only apricot trees may become afflicted with this disease, many stone fruits are susceptible. This includes fruits such as peaches, plums, and even cherries. These bacteria, which commonly spread in the springtime, can be found in cankers that have formed on trees. During periods of wet weather with high humidity, bacteria are able to spread. Early signs of infection may not be immediately noticeable. Beginning stages of bacterial spot most often manifests as small brown-black “spots” on the underside of leaves. Eventually, these spots grow and deepen to the point that the infected spot falls out, leaving each leaf with several irregularly shaped holes. This explains one of the more common names for bacterial spot, “bacterial shot hole.” Infected leaves may then drop completely from the tree. In addition to the leaves, fruit may also become infected if bacterial spread has occurred early in the season. Infected fruits will also become “spotted.” As the fruit grows, these brownish black spots will continue to deepen, and fruits will begin to crack.

Treating Apricot Bacterial Spot

Diseases such as bacterial spot can be frustrating for growers, as there is little that can be done once the infection has become established. While some options are available to commercial fruit growers, little can be done in the home garden with regards to apricot bacterial spot control. For this reason, prevention of bacterial spot is the best solution. By choosing well-draining planting sites which receive ample sunlight, growers can encourage overall health and vigor within the orchard. This, in addition to the purchase of tree varieties that demonstrate resistance to bacterial spot, will help to ensure future bountiful harvests. ‘Harcot’ and ‘Harglow’ apricot varieties are typically resistant.

They produce beautiful flowers and delicious fruit. Whether you have one as a centerpiece in your landscape or an entire orchard, apricot trees are a real asset. Unfortunately, they’re also very prone to disease and pest infestations. If you want a healthy apricot tree, it’s essential to stay ahead of the game, and that means keeping up a rigorous spraying schedule. Keep reading to learn more about spraying apricot trees for pests.

Spraying Apricot Trees for Pests

Do you need to spray apricot trees? Basically, yes. Pest infestations can devastate a tree or an entire orchard, and the best way to fight against it is to nip it in the bud. When do you spray apricot trees? A few times a year, starting in the winter. Before the buds on your tree have started to swell, spray it with dormant oil. This will kill off any overwintering eggs before they get a chance to hatch and wreak havoc. Pests that overwinter include:

• Aphids
• Mites
• Moths
• Scales
• Mealybugs
• Tent caterpillars

When Do You Spray Apricot Trees for Disease?

Spraying apricot trees for pests doesn’t stop with the coming of spring. Right at the time of bud break, spray with a fixed copper fungicide to kill off brown rot and shot hole fungi. You may need to use an active apricot fruit tree spray during the growing season if you see any pests or fungus. If you spray again during the growing season, do so after the blossoms have dropped-- you don’t want to harm bees and other beneficial insects while they’re pollinating. Also, before spraying, look into your local pest situation, as you don’t want to spray for something you may not have in your area. ALWAYS read the instructions on your label before spraying. Follow the label’s instructions, and never mix two different sprays unless both labels tell you it’s safe.

If you have an apricot tree in your garden, you’re probably asking yourself, “Should I thin my apricot tree?” The answer is yes, and here’s why: apricot trees often set more fruit than the tree can support. Read on to learn more about thinning apricots on trees.

Thinning Apricot Trees

Although it’s great to see a tree laden with juicy apricots, branches can easily break under the excess weight. Apricot thinning ensures that the remaining fruit receives more sunlight and air circulation, which improves the size and quality of the fruit and benefits the overall health of the entire tree. Crowded fruit places the tree at risk of diseases and insect infestation. Thinning apricot trees is best done in early spring when the apricots are about ¾ to 1 inch (2-2.5 cm.) in diameter.

How to Thin Apricot Fruit by Hand

Apricot thinning is a simple task: just twist the excess fruit gently from the branch. Avoid pulling or yanking the fruit because rough handling can damage the branch. Allow 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) between each apricot, which is sufficient space so the fruit won’t rub together at maturity.

Apricot Thinning with a Pole

Apricot trees usually don’t exceed 15 to 25 feet (4.5-8 m.) in height, but if your tree is too tall for hand thinning, you can remove the fruit with a bamboo pole. Wrap thick tape or a length of rubber hose around the end of the pole to protect the branches, then remove the apricots by gently rubbing or tapping at the base of the fruit. This technique gets easier with practice. Tip: Thinning apricot trees is time-consuming and messy, but here’s an easy way to save cleanup time (and your back). Just spread a tarp or plastic sheet on the ground to catch the discarded fruit. Now that you know more about thinning apricots on trees, you can ensure bigger, healthier fruits come harvest time.

Why try growing an apricot from seed? A flavor-packed fruit from a market stall starts it right. A fresh apricot seed pick boosts chances over store-bought ones. Timing matters – get it wrong, and nothing grows. Handle with care, and the tree has a good chance.

When you are growing an apricot tree from seed, it will need a cold kick to kickstart, as well as getting the soil and timing down. Don’t overwater – it’s a killer. Fresh apricots from a market stall, bursting with flavor, give you a seedling that’ll grow if you don’t overdo the water, and give it what its needs. About 70% of properly handled seeds germinate, so pick carefully.

Harvesting and Preparing the Seed

To plant an apricot tree from a pit, You’ll need to know a few basics things. The entire process of going from the seed to fruit is going to be a very slow one, but the tree can certainly be worth the wait if you keep at it.

1. Choosing the Right Apricot

Grab ripe apricots – local or heirloom like ‘Moorpark’ or ‘Harcot’ work best. Soft, flavor-packed fruit from a farmers’ market or orchard gives seeds with an 80% germination shot. Your average grocery store apricots are often picked green, and drop to about 30% success. You can test for ripeness by giving it a gentle squeeze. It should yield just slightly.

2. Extracting and Cleaning the Pit

Crack the fruit open. Pull the pit out. Wash it under cool water to clear sticky bits – any leftover flesh breeds mold fast. Dry it with a cloth. A clean pit is ready for action; waiting even a day risks damping off, so move quick!

3. Stratifying

Seeds are going to need a nice cold snap, called stratification, to wake up – just like winter would do. Soak them in lukewarm water for a day, then tuck them into a damp paper towel in a sealed bag – don’t let it get soggy. Do your best to keep them at 35–45F (2–7C) in the fridge for around 60-90 days. They need anywhere from 300 to 1,000 chill hours, depending on cultivar. Be sure to check them once every 5–7 days or so to keep the towel damp, not dripping, to avoid any nasty fungal pathogens that may ruin things.

4. Planting the Germinated Seed

Spot a white root after chilling? That means now is time to get it going. Make sure that you use a larger 12-inch (30 cm) deep pot to give the roots some room to grow and stretch out. I find that it works best with a mix of half peat moss, half sand, and a pH 6.0–7.0. Next, you’ll set the seed about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep, root facing downward. After that, water just enough to settle the mix in and take those air pockets out. About 100 ml or so will be plenty, usually.

Keeping seeds indoors helps to keep frost away. Spring outdoors will work in zones 5–9, however. Indoor pots give you the ability to control the exact light and heat, hitting even higher seedling survival. Outdoors risks frost but helps build tougher plants. Cover with plastic until a shoot appears – usually 2–3 weeks – then remove to stop mold.

Caring for an Apricot Sapling

Seedlings demand sun – 6–8 hours daily. No less. Place by a south-facing window or a bright outdoor spot. The temperatures will need to stay at 65–75F (18–24C). Below 32F (0C) kills them, and they will fail to pop out. Keeping a close eye on the temperatures using a good quality thermometer, like one of these from Amazon, catches dips. Full sun boosts growth. That growth will slow down in partial shade.

Water when the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil’s dry – check with a finger. Overwatering cuts survival. A good quality soil moisture meter, like this go-to on Amazon, nails things down with more precision. Feed them monthly with a half-strength 10-10-10 fertilizer in year one to push their growth without burning roots.

After 6-12 months, your sapling will probably start to become root bound. Now, it’s time to move them to an 18-inch (45 cm) pot for some more root room. For the great outdoors, you can wait until the seedling is about 1–2 feet (30–60 cm), in spring in zones 5–9. Start by hardening them off over a period 7–10 days, starting with only 2 hours of sun daily. The best bet is to pick a sunny spot with a soil pH of 6.0–7.0.

Long-Term Growth

Flowers will start to show up about in 3–5 years, while fruit can take more like 5–7. ‘Harcot’ self-pollinates, but a second tree lifts yields significantly. Seed-grown trees vary – expect unique flavors or sizes, unlike parent fruit. Many may not even produce viable fruit. Check your local chill hours (700–800 for most varieties).

Always prune in late winter, cutting dead or crossed branches with a Fiskars Pruner like I use from Amazon. Water weekly, using around 10–15 liters for established trees. Feed 10-10-10 annually in spring, Follow package instructions. With care, it pumps out Delicious fruit and shade for 20–30 years.

Ah, fruit trees-- gardeners everywhere plant them with such hope, but more often than not, new fruit tree owners are disappointed and underwhelmed when they discover their efforts aren't bearing fruit. Prunus species, including apricots, are no exception. An apricot not blooming is one of the most frustrating experiences in gardening. If you find your apricot with no blossoms, read on for some ideas for improving your chances next season.

Reasons an Apricot Tree Won't Flower

Apricots, like all fruit trees, have some basic requirements that must be met before they start to create blooms, and another set of requirements that keep those growing buds and blooms alive through the end of fruiting. It sounds really complicated, but it's easier than you think to cure no flowers on apricot trees. Start with these basic questions when you're trying to determine how to get blooms on an apricot tree: How old is your tree? Young trees don't always bloom right away, so check the age of your apricot before you start to panic. If it's older than five years, it should be mature enough, but younger than that means you simply need to wait. What's your hardiness zone? Apricots can't take too much cold over a long period of time, so if you're trying to grow them in a cooler climate than zone 5, you may have to find a way to protect blooms from freezing to death in the winter. However, many species also require about 700 chilling hours before they'll set fruit, so anywhere below zone 8 is also going to give you trouble. To further complicate things, an early-blooming apricot may be losing blooms to late frosts. How did you prune your tree last year? Since apricots bloom on two year old wood, you have to be really careful how you prune them and realize that any year with heavy pruning may lead to a couple of years without fruit. Leave plenty of old growth to balance the new when you're pruning apricot trees in the future, but do prune to stimulate fruit production. Is your tree properly fed? A healthy, happy fruit tree will produce a lot of fruit, but it requires a balance between stored food and readily available nutrients to pull this off. Of course, add too many nutrients and you may encourage your tree to put on a lot of vegetative growth at the expense of flowers. On the other hand, too little fertilizer and plenty of stored food can cause weak vegetative growth and poor or no fruit development. A soil test can help you determine which is to blame.

While apricot trees generally have few pest or disease issues, they are notable for dropping immature fruit-- that is apricot fruit not ripe falling from the tree. If you are lucky enough to have an apricot tree in your yard, you may wonder, "Why do my apricots stay green" and what can be done with apricots that do not ripen?

Why Do My Apricots Stay Green?

It can be difficult to determine why apricots aren't ripening on the tree, but there's a good chance the tree is experiencing some sort of stress. For example, stress can be caused by unseasonably hot, dry weather. In the absence of rainfall, apricots need a good soaking every ten days. Stress can also be caused by lack of sunlight. Be sure the variety is suitable for your USDA growing zone. Watch for signs of disease, including limb dieback, cankers, leaking sap, or sparse, light-colored foliage. Let's talk a bit about growing an apricot tree in general. Apricots bloom early and are easily killed off by late frosts. Most apricots are self-fertile, but fruit set is much better when one or two other varieties are planted in close proximity. The trees will not start bearing fruit until the third or fourth growing season, at which point a dwarf variety should yield one to two bushels and a standard size tree about three to four bushels. Apricots like to be in full sun and planted in most any soil provided it is well draining. Look for a dormant, bare root, year-old tree to plant in early spring, or in the fall if you live in a mild climate. Space standard size trees 25 feet (8 m.) apart and dwarf varieties about 8 to 12 feet (2-4 m.) apart. Prune the apricot tree annually to encourage fruiting. When fruit is one inch (2.5 cm.) in diameter, thin to three to four per cluster to promote greater fruit size and prevent overbearing, which will result in minimal fruit the following year.

What to Do with Unripe Apricots

Apricots ripen at different times on the tree. The fruit from Prunus armeniaca can be picked when it is fully colored even if it is still fairly hard. Apricots do ripen once removed from the tree if they are colored; apricots do not ripen when they are green. They will remain hard, green, and flavorless. Fruits picked when colored and with a slight give to the skin can be ripened at room temp-- not in the refrigerator-- with some space between the fruit. Turn the fruit occasionally as it ripens. Of course, for the sweetest flavor, the fruit should be ripened on the tree if possible. You can also place unripe fruit in a paper bag, which will trap the naturally emitted ethylene gas and hasten ripening. Adding an apple or banana will really accelerate this process. Be sure to keep the bag in a cool, dry place; a warm area will cause the fruit to spoil. Also, don't place the fruit in plastic bags, as again, the apricots will likely rot. The resulting ripened fruit should be used quickly as it will only remain fresh for one to two days. If you have apricots that are not ripening on the tree, you may have a later harvesting variety. Most apricot varietals ripen in early summer, a few late in the spring, but a couple of types are not ready for harvest until late in the summer. Also, fruit ripens earlier on well-thinned trees, so pruning may be a factor with unripe fruit.

Finally, you have that orchard that you've always wished for, or maybe you just needed one apricot tree to make your dreams a reality. Either way, if it's your first year growing fruit trees, there is something you need to know about: fruit drop. Fruit drop on apricot trees is a common occurrence, although when it happens it may seem like your plant is suddenly very sick or dying. Don't panic; read on to learn about apricot fruit drop.

Why Apricot Fruits Fall from Tree

Apricot fruit falling off your tree happens because most trees produce significantly more flowers than they need. The odds are that these flowers won't all be successfully pollinated, so the extras are like insurance for the apricot. In a residential setting where conditions are easier to control, these extra flowers are regularly pollinated and too many fruits set. The stress of so many fruits causes apricot trees to shed fruits -- sometimes twice! The main shed comes in June, when small, immature apricot fruits fall from tree, allowing the remaining fruit more space to grow.

Managing Apricot Fruit Drop

As with peach thinning, you can hand-thin fruits to prevent them from falling off apricot trees unpredictably. You'll need a ladder, a bucket, and some patience ; it can be time consuming, but hand-thinning is a lot easier than trying to clean up the mess after a fruit shed. Remove maturing apricots from branches, leaving 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) between remaining fruits. This may feel like dramatic thinning, but the fruits that result will be larger and fleshier than they would have been if they were left alone.

Apricot Scab

Although fruit drop is a yearly event for most apricot trees, apricot scab, which also affects peaches, can also cause fruits to drop. This apricot disease leaves fruits covered in tiny, olive-green spots measuring 1/16 to 1/8 inch (0.15-0.30 cm.) long. As the fruit expands, the spots do too, eventually merging into dark blotches. These fruits may crack open and drop prematurely. Fruits that ripen fully are often only superficially damaged. Good sanitation, including complete harvest of all fruits and clean-up around the base of the tree during and after fruit ripening, can help destroy the organism. A broad-spectrum fungicide like neem oil can destroy the fungus if applied after harvest and again when buds set in the spring.

Not just any gardener has an apricot tree in their landscape, but if you do, you probably went to a lot of trouble to find it and plant it in just the right place. But would you know how to identify apricot tree diseases? Keep reading to learn about treating problems in apricots, including bacterial canker, eutypa dieback, phytophthora, ripe fruit rot, and shot hole disease.

Common Types of Apricot Disease

There are many types of apricot disease, though most are caused by the usual suspects - bacteria or fungus. Here are some of the most common diseases of apricot trees:

Bacterial Canker

Among the most frustrating of apricot problems, bacterial canker causes the formation of dark, sunken sores at the base of buds and randomly along trunks and limbs. Gum may weep through these wounds as the tree emerges from dormancy in the spring or the tree may die suddenly. Once a tree is infected with bacterial canker, there is very little you can do to help it, although some growers have seen limited success with high doses of copper fungicide applied at leaf drop.

Eutypa Dieback

Much less common than bacterial canker, eutypa dieback, also known as gummosis or limb dieback, causes sudden wilt in apricots during late spring or summer. The bark is discolored and weepy, but unlike in bacterial canker, the leaves remain attached to diseased or dead limbs. Eutypa dieback can be pruned out of trees after harvest. Be sure to remove at least 1 foot (30 cm.) of healthy tissue along with the diseased limb and treat the pruning wounds with a general purpose fungicide.

Phytophthora

Phytophthora occurs primarily in gardens where the drainage is poor or plants are chronically over watered. Roots and crowns are damaged to varying degrees, but seriously injured apricot trees may collapse soon after the first stretch of warm weather of the year. Chronic infections cause reduced vigor and early leaf fall, as well as general unthriftiness. If your tree survives the first flush of spring, spray the leaves with phosphorus acid or mefenxam and correct the drainage issue, but know it may be too late to save your apricot.

Ripe Fruit Rot

Also known simply as brown rot, ripe fruit rot is one of the more frustrating of the diseases of apricot trees. As fruits ripen, they develop a small, brown, water-soaked lesion that quickly spreads, ruining the entire fruit. Soon, tan to gray spores appear on the fruit's surface, spreading the disease further. Ripe fruit rot may also manifest as blossom or twig blight or branch cankers, but the fruit rotting form is most common. Once ripe fruit rot has taken hold, there's nothing you can do for that harvest but remove infected fruits. Clean up all fallen debris and remove any fruits that remain on and around the tree at the end of the season, then start pretreating your tree on a schedule, beginning in spring. Fungicides like fenbuconazole, pyraclostrobin, or fenhexamid are often used to protect fruits from ripe fruit rot.

Shot Hole Disease

Apricots with small, circular, purple spots on their leaves may be infected with shot hole disease. The spots sometimes dry out and fall through, but infected leaves rarely die or fall from the tree. Spots may also appear on fruits before scabbing over - if these scabs fall off, rough areas are left behind. A single application of fungicide during the dormant season may be enough to protect apricots from shot hole disease. A bordeaux mixture or fixed copper spray can be applied to dormant trees, or use ziram, chlorothalonil or azoxystrobin on blooming or fruiting trees that are showing signs of shot hole disease.

Native to China, apricots have been cultivated for over 4,000 years, although today the United States outranks China in production. At this time, the United States commercially grows about 90 percent of the world's apricots, with most apricot storage and production centering in California. An excellent source of beta-carotene (vitamin A) and vitamin C, iron, potassium, and fiber, the questions addressed herein pertain to apricot harvest: when to harvest apricots and how to harvest an apricot.

How and When to Pick Apricots

Apricot harvest is best accomplished when they are completely ripe on the tree. The ripening period of the fruit may extend over a three week period for some varieties, so picking apricots may span this time frame. You will know when to pick apricots visually once the fruits change from green to yellowish orange in color and feel slightly softened, but still firm to the touch. The exact hue varies according to cultivar but regardless of the variety, all apricots soften extremely quickly, making them vulnerable to bruising and subsequent rotting. Gently pick the ripened fruits from the tree.

Apricot Storage

The resulting apricot harvest will keep for approximately one to three weeks stored in a cool location and free from damaging factors such as additional weight upon the fruit, which may result in bruises and decay. The fruit is best stored in a single layer to minimize potential damage due to bruising. Due to the high risk for damage to apricot storage, maintain temperature in the 31 to 32 degree F. (-.5 to 0 C.) range for long-term storage with a relative humidity of 90 to 91 percent. Also with apricot storage, do not store them with any other fruit which give off an appreciative amount of ethylene, as this will cause the fruit to age more quickly and may encourage the growth of decay causing fungus as well. For apricot storage once the fruit has been cut into, browning in the midst of preparing for freezing, canning, pie making or what have you, can be avoided if you place the apricots in a solution of 3 grams of ascorbic acid to 1 gallon (3.8 L.) of cold water. Ascorbic acid can be obtained either as a powdered form, vitamin C tablets, or in a commercial mixture sold in supermarkets to control fruit browning. You may also decide to freeze the apricot harvest. First wash, halve, and pit the fruit and then peel and slice or if unpeeled, heat in boiling water for half a minute. This will keep skins from getting tough in the freezer. Cool the blanched apricots in cold water, drain, and toss with a bit of the ascorbic acid. Then either freeze directly or in a syrup or sugar mixture (mix the ascorbic acid with 2/3 cup sugar), or puree prior to freezing. Package the prepared apricots, labeled, in Ziploc type bags with the air removed or in a freezer container with ½ inch (1 cm.) space remaining and covered with a piece of freezer wrap to prevent discoloration.

There's nothing like eating a fresh, ripe apricot straight from the tree. Gardeners invest years in bringing this pivotal moment to fruition, nurturing their apricot trees and fighting off the diseases and pests that can hamper their apricot-growing efforts. There are many types of pests on apricot trees, but most can be controlled without using potentially dangerous insecticides. Let's take a look at some common apricot tree insects and how to treat them.

Pests on Apricot Trees

Below are some of the most common insects that cause apricot tree problems.

Sap-Feeding Insects

An important keystone to successful apricot tree bug control is recognizing the sap-feeding insects, an overwhelmingly common group of pests. These insects hide on the undersides of leaves or disguise themselves as waxy, cottony, or wooly bumps on stems, shoots, and twigs while feeding directly on plant juices. Aphids, mealybugs, and a variety of scale insects are some of the most common apricot tree insects, but you may see signs of their feeding like yellowing and dropping leaves, sticky honeydew on leaves, or ants on your trees long before you notice sap-feeding pests. Weekly sprays of horticultural oil and neem oil work well for all of these slow-moving or immobile pests or you can use insecticidal soap against aphids and mealybugs.

Mites

Mites are tiny, sap-feeding arachnids that are difficult to see with the naked eye. Unlike sap-feeding insects, they don't produce honeydew, but may weave thin strands of silk where they are actively feeding. Mites appear as tiny dots on the undersides of leaves that have become stippled or spotted, or where leaves are dropping prematurely. Eriophyid mites cause unusual swellings where they've been feeding on leaves, twigs, or shoots. You can often prevent apricot tree problems caused by mites by keeping dust levels down, spraying leaves frequently with a water hose during dry weather, and refraining from the use of broad-spectrum insecticides that kill mite predators without controlling mite populations. Where mite colonies are problematic, a few weekly applications of horticultural oil or insecticidal soap will knock them back.

Foliage-Feeding Caterpillars

No discussion about controlling insects on apricots can be complete without at least a mention of the many caterpillars that eat leaves and damage fruits by chewing holes through the peel. Leaf-rolling caterpillars fold apricot leaves over themselves to form distinct, silk-bound nests where they feed from the inside. As leafrollers grow, they expand their nests, sometimes incorporating flowers or fruits. Other foliage-feeding caterpillars remain exposed, but hidden in the canopy while they feed. Bacillus thuringiensis, commonly known as Bt, is considered the best control for widespread caterpillar outbreaks. This bacteria-derived stomach poison is short-lived on leaves, so must be reapplied every two or three days until all caterpillar eggs have hatched and larvae have had an opportunity to feed. Small caterpillar populations should be picked off of trees.

Borers

The larvae of a few beetles and moths become severe pests on apricot trees when they bore into trunks, twigs, and branches to feed on the sapwood that grows just below the bark layer. Large populations of tunneling larvae may eventually girdle trees, interrupting the flow of nutrients to branches and leaves where growth and photosynthesis take place. Without the ability to process the raw materials drawn up from the roots, trees become stunted, stressed, or die depending on the location of the girdling. Borers are among the most difficult to control of apricot tree insects because they spend much of their lives inside the tree itself. Pruning out infested limbs in the winter and destroying them immediately can break the life cycle of borers that are not infesting the trunk. Otherwise, good support for your tree in the form of proper watering and fertilizing is often the only thing you can do to prevent further penetration by larvae- adult borers only lay eggs on severely stressed, injured, or sunburned trees.

An apricot tree looks better and produces more fruit when it's properly pruned. The process of building a strong, productive tree begins at planting time and continues throughout its life. Once you learn how to prune an apricot tree, you can approach this annual chore with confidence. Let's take a look at some apricot pruning tips.

When to Prune Apricot Trees

Prune apricot trees in late winter or early spring as the new leaves and flowers begin to open. During this period of time the tree is actively growing and the pruning cuts heal quickly so that diseases have little chance to enter the wounds. It also corrects problems early, and your cuts will be smaller.

How to Prune an Apricot Tree

Prune the tree for the first time soon after planting it. This will help the tree develop a strong structure. You'll reap the benefits of both early pruning and subsequent apricot tree trimming for years to come.

Pruning Apricot Trees at Planting Time

Look for a few solid branches that grow out more than up before you start cutting. These branches are said to have a wide crotch, referring to the angle between the main trunk and the branch. Keep these branches in mind because they are the ones you want to save. When you remove a branch, cut it close to the collar, which is the thickened area between the main trunk and the branch. When you shorten a branch, cut just above a side branch or bud whenever possible. Here are the steps in pruning a newly planted apricot tree:

• Remove all damaged or broken shoots and limbs.
• Remove all branches with a narrow crotch—those that grow up more than out.
• Remove all branches that are within 18 inches (46 cm.) off the ground.
• Shorten the main trunk to a height of 36 inches (91 cm.).
• Remove additional branches as necessary to space them at least 6 inches (15 cm.) apart.
• Shorten the remaining lateral branches to 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) in length. Each stub should have at least one bud.

Pruning Apricot Trees in Subsequent Years

Apricot tree trimming during the second year reinforces the structure you began in the first year and allows for some new main branches. Remove wayward branches that are growing at odd angles as well as those growing up or down. Make sure the branches you leave on the tree are several inches (8 cm.) apart. Shorten last year's main branches to about 30 inches (76 cm.). 

Now that you have a strong tree with solid structure, pruning in subsequent years is easy. Remove winter damage and old side-shoots that are no longer producing fruit. You should also remove shoots that grow taller than the main trunk. Thin out the canopy so that sunlight reaches the interior and air circulates freely.

Apricots are fruits that can be grown by anyone. The trees are easy to keep and beautiful, no matter the season. Not only do they produce golden apricot fruits, but their leaves are stuning in the fall. Apricot trees also make great shade trees throughout the summer. In fact, apricot fruits are so easily grown that they can get completely out of control if you don't thin the crop. By thinning the crop, you simply should pick some of the fruit as it is producing, because otherwise, you can end up with more apricots than you know what to do with. You would think, because of how many apricots grow on one tree, you would never have a problem with no apricots on the tree. However, it can and does happen.

Reasons for Apricot Tree Not Fruiting

Since apricot trees are so easily grown and apricot fruits so easily harvested, if you have no apricots on the tree, it signals a problem. Pollination - First of all, if you have an apricot tree not producing any fruit, you should consider whether you have one tree or more. Although apricot trees are considered self-fruiting, sometimes it's best to have more than one tree for pollination purposes. You can even have two different varieties of apricot trees, as having more than one can help if apricot fruiting does not occur. If you have an apricot tree not fruiting, it could very well be because of poor pollination. Be sure trees are placed in an area that is conducive to pollination. If you use pesticides, you may be inadvertently killing the beneficial bugs that pollinate apricot trees. Also, a very windy or rainy season can keep apricot pollinators from reaching the tree. Pests - Another issue with an apricot tree not producing fruit is that, if there are bugs or parasites on the tree, sometimes as fruiting starts, they will eat the small fruits, as well as knock them off the tree. Since the fruits weren't allowed to mature, they remain small and unnoticeable. Check for bug larvae or signs of pests and parasites to make sure this is not the issue resulting in no apricots on the trees. Growing conditions - Poor environment can be another reason for an apricot tree not producing. If an apricot tree receives too little or too much water at bloom time or while the fruit is maturing, you may see no apricots on the tree. A lack of nutrients, like phosphorus, can also be the cause of an apricot tree not fruiting. Monitoring water and fertilizer can help to correct this. Just remember that an apricot tree not fruiting is a sign that something is wrong. Whether there is something wrong with the environment or something wrong with the care the tree's receiving, you'll need to determine the cause of the tree not producing. It may be wise to call on a certified arborist to help you fix the tree.

Apricots are one of those wonderful trees that are self-fruitful, meaning you don't need a pollination partner to get fruit. As you select a cultivar, keep in mind some important apricot tree facts – these early bloomers can be adversely affected by frost in some regions, so select a hardy variety and plant where the tree will get some protection from sudden cold snaps. Additionally, apricots need at least 700 to 1,000 chilling hours to set fruit.

Apricot Tree Facts

The blushed orange, velvety skinned apricot has been cultivated for centuries and is an important food in many international cuisines. Apricot tree growing is suitable in most western states and regions with plenty of heat and sunshine. As a Mediterranean crop, apricots grow well where spring and summer are warm and plenty of water is available.

Apricots are stone fruits, similar to plums, cherries and peaches. They can be grown from that stone or pit, but trees are not true to the parent and rarely produce fruit. Instead, they are grafted onto rootstock with beneficial attributes. The early spring flowers are spectacular and the brightly colored fruit are decorative. Apricots are either trained to a central leader or open center.

Some excellent winter hardy varieties for cold regions are:

• Royal Blenheim
• Moorpark
• Tilton
• Harglow
• Goldrich

How to Grow Apricots

Once you've selected your cultivar, you need to know how to grow apricots. Site selection and soil are the most important considerations. The trees need deep, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter.

Apricot trees bloom early. There are times in apricot tree care where a late frost is a problem, so be sure to plant your trees on higher ground.

Do a percolation test prior to planting by digging a hole one foot deep and wide (30 cm.). Fill with water and wait until the next day. Fill the hole again and lay a stick or straight edge over the top. Measure the water drop every hour. Ideal readings will be around 2 inches (5 cm.) per hour.

Once you have adjusted the soil to have adequate drainage, dig a hole twice as deep and around as the root ball and plant your tree. Water in well.

Care of Apricot Trees

Apricot tree growing is fairly simple, provided you have the soil, sun, and drainage necessary. Apricots are not tolerant of high levels of salt, boron, chloride and other elements. Feeding of apricot trees will be important in their overall care. They normally get what they need from the soil though, provided it was set up for apricot tree growing beforehand.

The trees will need an inch (2.5 cm.) of water weekly, especially during bloom and fruiting. Use a drip irrigation system to avoid wet leaves, flowers and fruit.

Be sure your apricot tree care includes thinning of the fruit once it comes in; thin the fruits to 1 ½ to 2 inches (3.8 to 5 cm.) apart. This ensures that the fruit will be larger. If you don’t thin the fruits, they will be much smaller.

Apricots need to be pruned and trained annually in early summer to late fall. There are several pests of apricots and numerous fungal diseases. Apply fungicide sprays in spring to avoid such disease issues.