What is white asparagus? Perhaps you've enjoyed this European delicacy in fancy restaurants and found the mild, nutty flavor more appealing than the grassy, bitter taste of green asparagus. If so, you probably want white asparagus growing in your garden, but here's the real head-scratcher. There are no varieties of white asparagus! So how does white asparagus grow?

What is White Asparagus

If you've ever watched seedlings sprout on a wet paper towel, you've probably noticed the stems are white and the leaves are pale yellow. These sprouts aren't green because they have not begun producing chlorophyll, which is the green pigment that gives herbaceous plants their color. 

Some plants, like asparagus, won't produce chlorophyll until they've been exposed to sunlight. So what is white asparagus? It's simple: Asparagus shoots which haven't seen the light of day. Any variety of green asparagus can be deprived of sunlight to produce white asparagus shoots.

How to Grow White Asparagus

Before you can have white asparagus growing in your garden, you must first establish healthy asparagus crowns which are at least three years old. Follow recommended guidelines for prepping soil, planting, and fertilizing asparagus for the first two years. 

White asparagus care can then begin in early spring of the third year. By this time, you should have a reasonable expectation of when asparagus will begin emerging from the ground in your area. Prior to this date, set up a method for blocking the sunlight from the emerging asparagus shoots:

• Soil mound – Pile 6 inches (15 cm.) of loose soil where the asparagus shoots are expected to emerge. A frame built of 6 inch (15 cm.) boards can be placed around the asparagus bed to keep the soil in place. When you see the shoots begin to push the soil upward, you'll know it's time to harvest. Carefully dig around each shoot and snap it off beneath the soil level.
• Black plastic tunnel – This method works well if you have unused row covers which can easily be covered with black plastic. There's no digging with this method and the asparagus shoots stay much cleaner, but excess heat generated underneath the black plastic may be problematic. If so, try substituting breathable black fabric for the plastic.
• Plastic tubs – Dark-colored totes can also be used to block the sun's rays. These are easy to lift off for harvesting, but will need to be secured on windy days. This may not be a cost-effective method for producing larger beds of white asparagus.
• PVC pipe – If you can detect where an asparagus shoot is ready to emerge, a section of PVC pipe can be placed over the soon-to-sprout asparagus plant. Push the pipe into the soil, then close off the pipe with a PVC cap to block sunlight. This method is simple and quick if you only want a few spears of white asparagus growing in the garden.
• Wooden Box – Craft a wooden box with a hinged lid and place this over the asparagus bed. Wooden boxes tend to be heavy, but are ideal in areas where high winds are an issue.

Although the familiar green veggie grows wild in many parts of the world, historians are unsure about the exact origins of asparagus. However, it is known to be native to parts of Asia and the Mediterranean. Read on to learn more interesting facts regarding asparagus history.

Origins of Asparagus Use

In its earliest days, asparagus was thought to relieve a number of ailments, including toothache and heart problems. It was used as a diuretic, and a liniment made of asparagus was applied to prevent bee stings. Asparagus history has been traced back at least 2,000 years, when the vegetable was first cultivated by ancient Romans. The asparagus was tall and narrow, much like wild asparagus. Asparagus with thicker stems that more closely resembled what we enjoy today didn't evolve until the eighteenth century. Asparagus grew in popularity and gained favor in England and France by the sixteenth century. Sometimes known as the "food of kings," asparagus was grown by royalty and others who could afford greenhouses that allowed them to enjoy their favorite vegetable year round.

Heirloom Asparagus Plants

Heirloom vegetables are grown from seeds that have been passed from generation to generation. Although delimitations vary, most plant experts agree that heirloom plants must be at least 50 years old - usually originating prior to World War II. Heirloom vegetable seeds are open-pollinated, which means they are naturally pollinated by insects or wind without benefit of human assistance. Unlike hybrids, heirloom vegetables produce plants with characteristics that are basically the same as the parent plant. Historians are fairly sure that early European settlers introduced asparagus to the New World, and we know that Thomas Jefferson cultivated the vegetable in his gardens at Monticello. Heirloom asparagus varieties popular during the Colonial days include the Washington strain, including Martha Washington, Mary Washington or Waltham Washington. Joseph Cooper's pale green asparagus was also popular in Colonial America. Other heirloom varieties include Barr's Mammoth and Palmetto, which was long popular in the South. Conover's Colossal, introduced in New York in 1868, is still available. Europeans tend to prefer white asparagus, which is grown underground to keep it from turning green. White asparagus is usually a pale shade of apple green, often with a hint of purple at the tips. Precoce D'Argenteuil, white with rose-colored buds, was a heirloom variety favored in France.

Asparagus is a hardy, perennial crop that serves as a wonderful addition to formal kitchen gardens as well as permaculture food forests. Once plants have become established, gardeners can expect yearly crops of tender asparagus shoots. The introduction of new cultivars has made the process of growing and caring for these plants easier than ever before. Can you grow asparagus in a pot though? Read on to learn more about container grown asparagus plants.

Potted Asparagus Plants

Ideally, asparagus plants are grown outside in garden soil in USDA zones 4 through 8. Thriving in deeply cultivated and consistently moist soils, growers can expect to harvest from plants for upwards of twenty years. Ample garden space is key to growing healthy asparagus, as the plant’s root system can grow quite large. 

Fortunately, for those of us growing in tight spaces, there is another option. Whether gardening on a small apartment balcony or simply not in the position to plant long-term perennials, asparagus may also be grown in containers. When planting asparagus in a pot, however, there are a few considerations one must take into account. 

Asparagus plants are quite slow-growing when compared to other kitchen garden plants. When grown from seed, the plants will require at least two to three years to become established. During this period, the plant should not be harvested. This long waiting period is the main reason that many gardeners choose to purchase plants in the form of asparagus crowns.

Simply, crowns are plants that have already been grown for one to two years. Therefore, decreasing the waiting period between planting and harvest. Though growing asparagus in containers is beneficial as a space-saving technique, it will negatively impact the life span of the plants.

When growing asparagus in a planter, gardeners can expect only two to four seasons of actual asparagus harvests after the establishment period has passed.

Growing Asparagus in a Planter

In the early spring, select a container. For each crown, choose a large container at least 18 inches (46 cm.) deep and 12 inches (31 cm.) across. Planting in larger containers is essential, as asparagus crowns must be planted deeply. Create drainage holes in the bottom of the pot if none are present. 

While most planters will already have drainage holes, many gardeners choose to add additional drainage to pots. This will help to prevent the growth of fungus, as well as root rot. Fill the bottom 2 inches (5 cm.) of the pot with gravel. 

Then, fill the remainder with a mix of high quality potting soil and compost. Plant the asparagus crown into the container by following the package instructions, most often, planting the crown about 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm.) deep. Water well. Place outdoors in a sunny location that receives at least eight hours of sunlight each day.

After planting, shoots should appear within a week. Allow the plants to grow and become established during the first two seasons. Mulching around the plants will ensure that there is no competition from weeds and that the soil remains adequately moist.

Since these perennials are hardy, leave the containers outdoors throughout the fall and winter. Dormant plants will resume growth in the spring when the weather begins to warm.

Asparagus is a crop that takes some patience. If you're short on patience, Precoce d'Argenteuil is a good choice. You'll still have to wait, but not quite as long. And as an added bonus, it tastes amazing. Asparagus is a very old plant that originated in Europe, Northern Africa, and Western Asia. While it has grown wild for ages, it first started being cultivated seriously in Europe in the 19th century.

Precoce D'Argenteuil History

Precoce d'Argenteuil means "early variety" of Argenteuil. So what does Argenteuil mean? It doesn't mean anything. It's a place, about 9 miles north of Paris, which used to be an asparagus growing hotspot. Precoce d'Argenteuil's earliest recorded mention is from 1885, when it was listed as having been developed from the Giant Dutch Purple variety of asparagus. Precoce d'Argenteuil asparagus took off in France, which was already arguably asparagus crazy. It became the go-to variety used to create the popular French "white asparagus." Odds are you've seen white asparagus in the store - it's not a different breed. It's regular old asparagus that's been blanched by careful protection from the sun.

Growing Heirloom Asparagus Plants

Precoce d'Argenteuil is early in a couple senses of the word. One problem with asparagus that keeps a lot of gardeners from growing it is the long time it takes to establish. With most varieties, you won't actually get to harvest until three years after you've planted. Precoce d'Argenteuil is usually ready to go after two. The other sense in which it's early - and this is what's really responsible for the name - is the time it appears in the spring. There exist mid and late season varieties of Argenteuil - Precoce emerges from the ground the earliest. Once your asparagus patch is established, it should reliably produce new edible spears every year for a few decades.

Asparagus is a resilient, perennial crop that produces early in the growing season and can produce for 15 years or more. Once established, asparagus is fairly low maintenance with the exception of keeping the area weed free and watering, but what about overwintering asparagus plants? Do asparagus need winter protection?

Does Asparagus Need Winter Protection?

In mild climates, the root crowns of asparagus need no special winter care, but in cooler regions, winterizing the asparagus bed is a must. Prepping asparagus beds for winter will protect the roots from the cold and encourage the plants to go dormant, allowing the plant to rest before its next growth phase in the spring.

Overwintering Asparagus Plants

In the fall, the leaves of asparagus begin to yellow and die back naturally. At this juncture, cut the brown fronds from the plant at the base. If you live in a warmer climate, the asparagus may not die back completely. Cut the spear in the late fall anyway with a pair of heavy-duty scissors, like these Fiskars Pro PowerArc Stainless Steel Scissors on Amazon.

This forces the plant to go into dormancy, a necessary resting period before it begins to actively grow and produce again. Also, if you live in a milder climate, there is no need for further asparagus winter care, but those in colder regions need to begin prepping asparagus for winter. If you’re feeling lucky or lazy, you can choose to pray for enough snow cover to protect the crowns and leave well enough alone. If you don’t think it’s a good day to buy a lottery ticket, it’s better to perform some minor winter prep. Once the fronds have been cut back, cease watering the asparagus entirely. The idea when winterizing asparagus beds is to protect the crowns from cold injury.

Spread 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm.) of mulch (like this from Walmart) over the crowns. The downside of mulching the bed is that it will slow down the emergence of the spears in the spring, but this is a small price to pay to protect the bed. You can remove the old mulch in the spring as soon as the shoots begin to emerge. Then either compost or dispose of the mulch since it can harbor fungal disease spores.

We all know that some plants have male reproductive organs and some have female and some have both. How about asparagus? Are there really male or female asparagus? If so, what’s the difference between male and female asparagus? Keep reading to get the scoop on male vs. female asparagus.

Are There Really Male or Female Asparagus?

So, are there male and female asparagus plants? There isn’t an obvious asparagus sex determination is there? Yes, there are male and female asparagus plants and actually, there are some signs as to which sex the asparagus might be.

Asparagus Sex Determination

Asparagus is dioecious, which means there are both male and female plants. Female asparagus produces seeds that look like little red berries. Male plants produce thicker, larger spears than females. The flowers on male plants are also larger and longer than those on females. Male blooms have six stamens and one small useless pistil, while female blooms have six small nonfunctional pistils and a well-developed, three-lobed stamen.

Male vs. Female Asparagus

In the battle of the sexes, is there a difference between male and female asparagus? Since female asparagus produce seed, they expend quite a bit of energy on that production, so while the female produces more spears, they are significantly smaller than their male counterparts. Also, as the seeds drop from the female, new seedlings are sprouted which causes overcrowding in the bed. In this one case, male asparagus seems to have a benefit over female. In fact, male asparagus is favored so much more that there are now new hybridized male asparagus plants that produce larger yields. Some of these include Jersey Giant, Jersey King, and Jersey Knight. If you want the largest spears, these are your best options. These newer hybrids also have the added benefit of being cold tolerant and resistant to rust and fusarium. If you have planted an older variety or are unsure what sex your crowns are, wait until they flower to make a distinction. Then if you want, you can remove the less productive female asparagus and replace it with more productive male crowns.

Growing asparagus is a long-term investment. It can take several years to establish an asparagus patch enough to produce a significant edible crop. Once it takes hold, however, it should produce plenty of spears reliably every spring for years and years to come. That’s why it can be especially devastating when an asparagus patch falls victim to pests. One very common asparagus pest is the spotted asparagus beetle. Keep reading to learn some spotted asparagus beetle facts and how to prevent spotted asparagus beetles.

Spotted Asparagus Beetles in Gardens

Asparagus is a favorite food of two very similar bugs: the asparagus beetle and the spotted asparagus beetle. Of the two, the spotted asparagus beetle is much less of a concern, so it’s important to be able to tell them apart. The asparagus beetle is blue or black with six off-white spots on its back. The spotted asparagus beetle, on the other hand, is a rusty orange color with a varying number of black spots on its back. While asparagus beetles can cause some real damage to a crop, having spotted asparagus beetles in gardens is not of much concern because of when its eggs hatch. The spotted asparagus beetle lifecycle is such that the larvae emerge just in time to eat the asparagus berries, long after the asparagus has passed its prime harvesting stage. Unless you’re growing asparagus to collect the seed, this shouldn’t be a problem.

How to Get Rid of Spotted Asparagus Beetles

Although having spotted asparagus beetles in gardens is not really a reason to be concerned, you may still want to get rid of them. Controlling spotted asparagus beetles can be done in a few different ways. One very easy and pretty effective method is hand removal. If you have a small asparagus patch, simply pick off the individual bugs and drop them in a bucket of soapy water. You might have a mix of adult beetles and larvae. Another good and very effective method is planting only male plants-- these won’t form berries and should not attract spotted asparagus beetles.

Asparagus rust disease is a common but extremely destructive plant disease that has affected asparagus crops around the world. Read on to learn more about asparagus rust control and treatment in your garden.

What is Asparagus Rust?

Asparagus rust is a fungal disease that attacks the bushy green tops of asparagus plants. If the disease is allowed to continue, the roots and crown of the plant are affected and the plant is severely weakened. As a result, asparagus spears are smaller and fewer in number. Plants that are severely affected may die during hot and dry summer weather. Additionally, asparagus rust disease stresses plants, making them more susceptible to other plant diseases such as fusarium rot. Asparagus rust spores live on plant residue during the winter and germinate in early spring. The disease is spread by wind and rain and spreads quickly during wet or foggy weather or damp, dewy mornings. Rusty orange spores on the feathery stem tops are the first sign of the disease and are evident during the summer.

Asparagus Rust Control

Treating rust in asparagus involves some preventative measures. Here are some tips that will help with that as well as for managing plants once rust disease develops. Cut back affected stems and tops. Clean up severely infected asparagus beds. Burn the debris or dispose of it safely away from the garden. Also, destroy any wild or volunteer asparagus plants that grow in the area, including plants found along fences or roadsides. When harvesting asparagus, use a sharp knife to cut spears below the surface of the soil. This may help prevent asparagus rust disease from developing on the stubs. After harvest, spray remaining stems and foliage with a fungicide spray or dust containing active ingredients such as mancozeb, myclobutanil, chlorothalonil, or tebuconazole, repeating every seven to ten days, or according to label directions. Keep in mind that some fungicides are best used as preventatives. Water asparagus plants carefully, avoiding both over and under watering. Plant asparagus in an area where prevailing winds provide good air circulation around the plants. Avoid crowding. Also, plant new asparagus in a location away from areas where infected plants grew. Prevent asparagus rust by planting rust-resistant asparagus varieties such as ‘Martha Washington’ and ‘Jersey Giant.’ Ask your local Cooperative Extension Agent for more specific information about asparagus rust control and about types of rust-resistant asparagus cultivars that perform well in your area.

Asparagus crown and root rot is one of the most economically disastrous diseases of the crop worldwide. Asparagus crown rot is caused by three species of Fusarium: Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. asparagi, Fusarium proliferatum, and Fusarium moniliforme. All three fungi can invade the roots, but F. oxysporum f. sp. asparagi also invade the xylem tissue, the woody supportive tissue that carries water and nutrients from the roots to the stem and leaves. Learn more about controlling asparagus fusarium crown rot and root rot here.

Symptoms of Asparagus Fusarium Crown Rot

Referred to generally as Fusarium disease, asparagus crown rot, seedling blight, decline disease, or replant problems, crown rot of asparagus results in a decline in productivity and growth, signaled by yellowing, wilting, crown dry rot and eventual death. This soil borne fungus causes infected areas of the crown to turn brown, followed by rotting asparagus plants that rapidly die off. The stems and cortex are dotted with reddish brown lesions and when cut open, reveal vascular discoloration. The feeder roots will almost completely rot and have the same reddish brown coloring. The rotting, dying asparagus plants infect each other and the disease can spread exponentially.

Management of Asparagus Fusarium Crown and Root Rot

Crown rot of asparagus can survive in soil indefinitely and spreads through movement of infected soil, air currents, and seed contamination. Plant stresses and environmental factors such as poor cultural practices or drainage further open plants up to infection. Positive identification of crown rot is determined through laboratory testing. Fusarium disease is extremely difficult, if not impossible, to manage once it’s in the field. As the saying goes, “the best offense is a good defense,” so monitor for pests and disease and keep the area around the asparagus crop free of weeds and other plant detritus. Also, plant disease free seedlings, transplants, or crowns, minimize plant stress, avoid lengthy harvest periods, and be consistent with irrigation and fertilization to lessen the chances that Fusarium will infect the crop.

If you want a bumper crop of asparagus perhaps you should consider planting asparagus companion plants. Asparagus plant companions are plants that have a symbiotic relationship, one that is mutually beneficial to each. In the following article, we will discuss the benefits of companion planting with asparagus and what grows well with asparagus.

Companion Planting with Asparagus

Companions for asparagus or any other vegetable must be compatible with each other. Asparagus is a perennial that likes a sunny area of the garden. They take two to three years to reach a full yield and, thereafter, produce spears for the next 10 to 15 years! This means that companions for asparagus must like sun exposure and be able to work around the semi-permanent asparagus. 

Companions for asparagus may be those that add nutrients to the soil, deter pests and disease, harbor beneficial insects, or aid in water retention or weed retardation.

What Grows Well with Asparagus?

Asparagus companion plants may be other veggie plants, herbs, or flowering plants. Asparagus gets along with many other plants, but tomatoes are notorious for being excellent asparagus plant companions. Tomatoes emit solanine, a chemical that repels asparagus beetles. 

In turn, asparagus gives off a chemical that deters nematodes. Interplanting parsley and basil, along with the tomatoes, in close proximity to asparagus is also said to repel asparagus beetle. Plant the parsley and basil underneath the asparagus and the tomatoes alongside the asparagus. The bonus is that the herbs help the tomatoes grow better. In this particular companion planting quartet, everyone is a winner. 

Other herbs that enjoy asparagus’ company include comfrey, coriander, and dill. They repel insect pests like aphids, spider mites, and other detrimental insects. Early crops such as beets, lettuce, and spinach can be planted between the asparagus rows in the spring. Then in the summer, plant a second crop of lettuce or spinach. The taller asparagus fronds will give these cool weather greens much needed shade from the sun. 

During Colonial times, grapes were trellised between asparagus rows. Flowers that coexist well with asparagus include marigolds, nasturtiums, and members of the Aster family. The most interesting combination of companion plants for asparagus that I have read about was asparagus, strawberries, rhubarb, and horseradish. This sounds like the makings of a fabulous dinner.

What to Avoid Planting Next to Asparagus

Garlic and onions can be offensive to some people, and for those of you who abhor these crops, asparagus agrees with you. Keep them well away from asparagus in the garden. Potatoes are yet another no-no. Cross check and be sure that all the asparagus companion plants are friendly with each other prior to planting, as some plants simply do not like one another.

Establishing a healthy bed of asparagus requires considerable work but, once established, you’ll enjoy asparagus in early spring for a very long time. Asparagus is a long-lived perennial vegetable – so long-lived, in fact, that some types of asparagus survive for 20 to 30 years. Read on to learn more about different asparagus varieties, including a few heirloom asparagus types.

Growing Male Types of Asparagus

Asparagus is either male or female. Most gardeners primarily plant male plants, which produce larger spears in greater numbers. This is because female plants expend tremendous energy producing seeds and small, weedy seedlings that compete with established asparagus plants. Until the last two decades, types of asparagus consisted of a mix of male and female plants. However, researchers have discovered ways to effectively propagate all-male varieties of asparagus. Look for all-male plants for plenty of big, flavorful spears.

Varieties of Asparagus

‘Jersey’ Series – This all-male series of hybrid asparagus varieties include ‘Jersey Giant,’ a hardy plant that performs well in chilly climates. ‘Jersey Knight’ is one of the more vigorous types of asparagus; highly resistant to asparagus diseases such as crown rot, rust, and fusarium wilt. ‘Jersey Supreme’ is a newer, disease-resistant variety that produces spears earlier than ‘Giant’ or ‘Knight.’ ‘Supreme’ is an excellent choice for light, sandy soil. ‘Purple Passion’ – As its name suggests, this widely grown variety produces attractive, ultra-sweet, purple spears. If purple asparagus doesn’t sound appetizing, don’t worry; the color fades when the asparagus is cooked. ‘Purple Passion’ consists of both male and female plants. ‘Apollo’ – This asparagus type performs well in both chilly and warm weather conditions. It is highly disease-resistant. ‘UC 157’ – This is a hybrid asparagus that performs well in warmer climates. This pale green, disease-resistant asparagus is both male and female. ‘Atlas’ – Atlas is a vigorous variety that performs well in hot weather. This asparagus type is resistant to most asparagus diseases, including fusarium rust. ‘Viking KBC’ – This is a newer hybrid variety in a mix of male and female plants. ‘Viking’ is known to produce large yields.

Heirloom Asparagus Types

‘Mary Washington’ is a traditional variety that produces long, deep green spears with pale purple tips. Appreciated for its uniform size and delicious flavor, ‘Mary Washington' has been a favorite of American gardeners for more than a century. ‘Precoce D’Argenteuil’ asparagus is an heirloom variety that is popular in Europe for its sweet stalks, each topped with an attractive, rosy pink tip.

If you are an asparagus lover, chances are good that you would like to include them in your garden. Many gardeners buy established bare root stock when growing asparagus but can you grow asparagus from seeds? If so, how do you grow asparagus from seed and what other information on asparagus seed propagation might be helpful?

Can You Grow Asparagus from Seeds?

Asparagus is often grown from bare root stock crowns. The reason for this is that growing asparagus requires patience. Crowns take three growing seasons before they are ready to be harvested! Even so, this is significantly faster than if you try growing asparagus from seeds. 

That said, yes, asparagus seed propagation is very possible and a little cheaper than buying crowns. Asparagus seeds, or berries, turn bright red in autumn. Once the tops fall over, the tops can be collected and hung upside-down in a warm, dry area for about a week or so to ripen. 

To catch the seeds once completely dried, keep a bowl beneath them or gently tie a brown paper bag around the tops when hanging. These seeds can then be used for planting asparagus. Likewise, you can purchase them from reputable suppliers.

How Do You Grow Asparagus from Seed?

Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) is a hardy perennial suited to USDA zones 2 to 8 and is native to western Europe. This perennial can remain viable for 10 to 20 years, so choose your garden site carefully. Asparagus needs a soil pH of between 7.0 and 7.2 in fertile, well-draining soil. 

So how do you go about planting asparagus seeds? There’s no trick to growing asparagus from seeds, just be patient. It’s recommended that you start asparagus seeds indoors or in a greenhouse in mid-February to May under bright lighting. Soil temperatures for seed germination should be between 70 and 85 degrees F. (21-29 C.). Soak the seeds for a couple of hours, then plant each seed ½ inch (1 cm.) deep in sterile soil, in individual 2 inch (5 cm.) pots. 

They should sprout anywhere between two and eight weeks from planting asparagus seeds. Seedlings are ready to transplant when they are 10 to 12 weeks old and all danger of frost in your area has passed. Space the transplants 18 inches (46 cm.) apart in rows set 3 to 6 inches (8-15 cm.) apart. 

If you want thinner spears, space the transplants 8 to 10 inches (20-25 cm.) apart, with the plant set 4 inches (10 cm.) deep. If you like thicker spears, plant them 12 to 14 inches (30-36 cm.) apart and set 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm.) deep. Consider planting your new asparagus babies near your tomatoes.

Asparagus repels nematodes that attack tomato plants while tomatoes repel asparagus beetles. A very symbiotic relationship, indeed. As the plant grows, cover the crown with soil and keep it moist with 1 inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week. Fertilize in the spring with 1 to 2 cups (250-473 ml.) of complete organic fertilizer per 10 foot (3 m.) of row and dig in gently.

Remember, don’t harvest the plant until its third year; allow the plant to set ferns and redirect its energy back into the plant. Cut the ferns down to 2 inches (5 cm.) tall in the late fall. In the plant’s third year, you can begin regularly harvesting the spears. The season usually lasts around 8 to 12 weeks.

Cut the asparagus spears 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) below the ground, and at least 2 inches (5 cm.) above the crown using a sharp knife or asparagus harvesting tool.

There's a good reason why purple podded yard beans are often known as snake beans. This heirloom vegetable plant produces beans that can reach surprising lengths of 30 inches. And if extreme length isn't enough of an attention grabber, the attractive, drooping pods contain natural phytochemicals that give them a deep purple color. The delicate-looking blooms provide their share of color too; they are pale purple with a dark purple center and two bright yellow dots. An amazing plant with lots to offer - grow them to eat, grow them simply as ornamentals or grow them for wildlife.

History of Purple Podded Yard Long Beans

Yard long beans (Vigna sesquipedalis) may resemble pole snap beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) but they are actually closely related to southern cowpeas (Vigna unguiculata), botanically speaking anyway. They originate from Southeast Asia. The history of these particular heirloom yard long beans is sketchy, however, but experts are fairly certain this plant originated many years ago in Thailand, where it is still very popular. In fact, some people know this plant as Thai purple-podded bean or Thai yard long asparagus bean plants - tongue twister, say that three times.

Growing Yard Long Asparagus Beans

If you want to grow your own yard long beans, it isn't difficult so long as you can provide a long, hot growing season and at least of six hours of dependable sunlight per day. The plants tolerate nearly any type of well-drained soil, but they are happier if you work in a few inches of compost or rotten manure, along with an all-purpose fertilizer. Don't rush to get the beans in the ground. Wait until late spring when daytime temperatures are above 60 F. (15 C.). Then you can plant your beans 12 inches apart in rows, with 3 to 4 feet between each row. If you prefer, you can plant the beans in hills. Don't crowd them; these vigorous plants require quite a bit of space. Remember, they're lengthy. Cover the beans with 1 to 1 ½ inches of soil, then keep them evenly moist, but not soggy, until the beans germinate - usually seven to 10 days if the weather is warm. Thereafter, provide about an inch of water every week. Be as consistent as possible and avoid extremes of moisture, which can cause dropped blossoms or malformed pods. A couple inches of bark mulch or dry grass clippings can moderate soil moisture and temperature. You might want to install a support for the plant once they are still fairly small so you can begin training the twirling, twining stems to wind around the support. A fence or trellis works just fine, but many gardeners, such as myself, use a tripod consisting of three or four 6- to 7-foot poles arranged teepee-fashion. Unfinished wood is great because the rough surface gives the vines something to grab. Don't make the support too tall; remember that you will need to reach the vines at the top when the beans are ready to harvest. And when that time comes, those super-long pods will be quite impressive, but if you're going for flavor, the beans are most tender, sweet and mild at only 10 to 12 inches.

Cultivated for more than 2,000 years both for culinary and medicinal use, asparagus is a wonderful perennial veggie to add to the home garden. A versatile vegetable, asparagus can be eaten fresh, raw, or cooked, or can be frozen or canned. Keep in mind that a little patience is required before you can dive into your culinary masterpieces. It takes a couple of years of ferning out in asparagus before you can harvest it. What is ferning out and why does asparagus fern out?

What is Ferning Out?

Ferning out in asparagus is sometimes confused with asparagus bolt. Many veggies will bolt during lengthy periods of hot weather. Meaning that plants such as lettuce, broccoli, or even rhubarb prematurely send up a flower stalk indicating the plant is finished for the season and has gone to seed. Asparagus bolt is really an incorrect term to describe what is actually happening to the asparagus patch, however. When asparagus first emerges, slim, tender spears appear. These spears are what we harvest and this part of the life cycle lasts four to six weeks in the second year of planting, six to eight weeks in the third year, continuing at that rate for 15 to 20 years! As the spears mature, they become woody at the base while the tips begin to open and develop into fern-like foliage.

Why Asparagus Ferns Out

So what is the purpose of this ferning out phase in the plant's life cycle? Ferning out in asparagus is actually a good thing, as it indicates that photosynthesis is being promoted, therefore, nutrition production and absorption increases. During the ferning process, the majority of the energy produced is stored in the roots to facilitate new growth the next year. As the asparagus ferns out, female spears produce green berries that eventually turn red. These berries/seeds, however, are unlikely to produce new plants.

Why is My Asparagus Ferning Out Early?

Ferning, also referred to as “popping,” is similar to bolting in lettuce, hence the misnomer mentioned above. Just as with plant bolting, asparagus that is ferning out early is most likely the result of temperature and weather conditions. The hotter it is, the more rapidly asparagus “bolts” or ferns out. While you can do nothing about overly hot temps, asparagus may fern out early due to inadequate rainfall as well, which is something you can control. During times of drought, be sure to water once a week or enough to keep the soil moist 2 inches (5 cm.) below the surface. Plant the asparagus in a raised bed in well-draining soil and mulch around the plants to conserve soil moisture and retard weeds. Once the asparagus has ferned out, cut the foliage back in the fall and mulch heavily with compost to over winter. Remove the mulch in the spring and wait patiently for the delicious, tender shoots to emerge.

An old method of controlling weeds in the asparagus patch was to pour the water from an ice cream maker over the bed. The salty water did indeed limit the weeds but over time it collects in the soil and can cause problems. Know how to use salt on asparagus and when too much is too much for these delicious plants.

Using Salt on Asparagus Weeds

One of the first spring vegetables is asparagus. The crisp spears are perfect in a variety of preparations and adapt well to a host of cuisine types. Asparagus are perennials which grow from crowns planted 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm.) beneath the soil surface. This means deep hoeing is not an option to get rid of weeds. Using salt for weed control is an old farm tradition, and while the high salinity does kill some annual weeds, persistent perennial weeds may be resistant, and the practice leaves an excess of salt in the bed which can be detrimental to the asparagus. However, there are other safer methods than using salt on asparagus weeds. It is not a good idea to use salt in asparagus soil unless you plan on testing the salinity of the soil annually and stop when it begins to reach high levels. High levels of salt in asparagus soil can impede percolation and water drainage. Over time the saline will build up to a level that will even kill a salt tolerant plant such as asparagus. That will destroy your crop of tender spears and waste the three years you had to wait for your bed to produce well.

Other Methods of Asparagus Weed Control

Our ancestral farmers knew how to use salt on asparagus and when to stop the practice to prevent poisoning the soil. Today, we have several different tools available to us and do not have to resort to salt for weed control.

Hand Pulling Weeds

You were given hands for a reason. One of the simplest methods of weed control that is non-toxic and creates no buildup of salt or other chemicals in the soil is hand weeding. It is even organic! Hand weeding is also effective, but it doesn't work quite as well in large asparagus beds. Light tilling can be done in early spring before the spears have begun to show. The shoots are quick growers and using salt on asparagus weeds can burn the tender new spears. Hand weeding is tedious, but useful to most home gardeners. The tough part is getting the roots of perennial weeds, but even removing the greenery will eventually weaken the root and kill the weed over time.

Using Herbicides for Asparagus Weeds

Modern farm practices include the use of pre-emergent herbicides to prevent weed seeds from sprouting. Corn gluten meal is non-toxic and has pre-emergent properties. It may safely be used on the entire bed every four weeks. Use caution when applying to beds with germinating seeds, as it will impede sprouting. Another method is the use of post emergent herbicides. Use it after the last harvest when no spears are above the soil or in early spring broadcast it over the entire bed before shoots appear. Make sure no herbicide contacts the plant material or you could kill the crowns, as the products are systemic and will leach through the vascular system to the root. It is safe to use as long as the product only contacts soil and will remain in the soil to kill sprouting weeds. Any of these methods is safer and more effective than salt in asparagus soil.

Vegetable gardeners are the lucky ones. What they plant in the spring, they harvest in the summer and fall-- except for a few choice crops like asparagus. Since asparagus is a perennial crop, it takes several years before a harvest can take place. Discovering that your asparagus is too thin can be devastating after all that waiting. Don't worry though; most of the time skinny asparagus stalks can be resolved before your next growing season comes.

Why Shoots on Asparagus are Thin

Thin asparagus spears appear for a number of reasons, but the root cause is ultimately the same: the asparagus crown lacks the rigor to create bigger shoots. Depending on how old your asparagus is, it's probably due to one of these reasons: Inappropriate Age - Very young and very old asparagus plants do not yield optimally; this is why it's recommended to leave young plants unharvested for the first three years and to divide or replace any crowns over ten years of age. Improper Feeding - Asparagus are somewhat heavy feeders and need all the food they can get in order to build strong spears the following year. Feed your asparagus with about three-quarters pound of 16-16-8 fertilizer for each 10 foot by 10 foot (3 m. x 3 m.) section of your asparagus bed after harvest is complete. Incorrect Depth - Since asparagus crowns migrate up through the soil over time, it's important to pay close attention to the depth where they're growing. In the fall, ensure that yours are covered with 3 to 5 inches (8-13 cm.) of soil. If they aren't, add compost until they're well-covered. Improper Care - After harvest is a touchy time for asparagus plants, and when it's most likely that a new grower will make a fatal mistake. The ferns that grow from the crown aren't simply waste material to cut down, they need to be allowed to grow so your asparagus can recharge its batteries. Leave them alone until they begin to yellow and collapse on their own for best spear production. If you've not seen ferns before, your problem may be due to overharvesting. Even with established plants, you shouldn't harvest asparagus for more than eight weeks. Your plants will tell you when it's time to stop by producing thin asparagus stalks no thicker than a pencil. Younger plants can usually tolerate a harvest of about half this time.

The sudden appearance of colorful orange and black beetles in your garden may feel like a good omen -- after all, they're cheery and look sort of like ladybugs. Don't be fooled. Despite the similar coloration, asparagus beetles on plants spell trouble.

Controlling Asparagus Beetles

There are two main types of asparagus beetle: the common asparagus beetle and the spotted asparagus beetle. Both are primarily orange, but the common asparagus beetle has black wings dotted with white, while the spotted asparagus beetle is entirely orange dotted with black. Controlling asparagus beetles is the same, however, regardless of species. Asparagus beetles are (not surprisingly) most common and damaging on asparagus plants. Both adults and larvae feed on the spears and tips, scarring them. Spears become extremely unappetizing when frass is staining them and eggs are deposited in the tips. In addition, the larvae of the spotted asparagus beetle will feed inside developing berries and consume foliage.

How to Get Rid of Asparagus Beetles

In most situations, organic treatment for asparagus beetles is recommended, unless populations are enormous or asparagus plants are in serious danger. As soon as you notice asparagus beetles, begin hand picking them daily, tossing them into a bucket of soapy water. If you see any brown eggs on spears, make sure to scrape those as well. Cutting asparagus shoots as they appear and leaving no more than two days between harvests can help prevent eggs from hatching. Even if the spears are contaminated with eggs, cut them as soon as they are large enough to harvest. Neem oil can be applied to plantings that have serious infestations, especially in years when harvesting is not recommended. Coat the spears thoroughly, applying neem to new spears each week. Collecting berries at the end of the season can help keep spotted asparagus beetles at bay. If asparagus beetle on plants are severe and immediate control is necessary to save your asparagus, both pyrethrin and malathion can be used without causing serious harm to beneficial insects. These chemicals are short-acting, lasting only a few days, but potent. Beetles that keep coming and coming on an asparagus path may be knocked back with permethrin, but be aware that this chemical has a much longer duration and will kill most insects that contact the asparagus stand.

Tender, new asparagus shoots are one of the first crops of the season. The delicate stems rise from thick, tangled root crowns, which produce best after a few seasons. Growing asparagus plants from division is possible, but the most common method is from root crowns. Learn how to propagate asparagus in your zone for a wonderful spring perennial crop.

How to Propagate Asparagus

Asparagus root crowns must be one year old before they'll produce any stems. Plants started from seed will need an extra year before they reach that point. Established asparagus plots yield even more plants when you dig up the crowns, divide, and replant them. All three methods of propagating asparagus plants are simple ways to introduce asparagus to your home garden. You can start harvesting the spears when the plants are in the ground for two years. By the third year, you will be getting larger and thicker spears, but over time, they get smaller and less robust. This is when you know it is time to divide the original crown.

Growing Asparagus from Seeds

Older asparagus plants produce red berries, which contain seeds. These come from the spears after they are allowed to turn into ferns at the end of the season. Seeds are viable if they have not experienced freezing temperatures. Collect the berries, crush them, and separate out the seed. Soak the seed to remove the rest of the pulp and then dry it out for a few days. Store the seed in a cool, dry location and then plant in spring. The best results are from seeds started indoors and then transplanted out after all danger of frost has passed. Asparagus propagation by seed is cheap but it will require two years before you see the first shoots.

Asparagus Crown Division

Asparagus propagation by division is one of the most common methods. When production of spears slows down over several years, it is time to cut the root into pieces. Dig up the root in late fall after the last ferns have died back. Cut it into several pieces, each with plenty of healthy root attached. Replant them then or wait until spring after the last frost. Store the roots in a mesh or paper bag filled with sawdust if you chose the latter. Roots from asparagus crown division will need another year to establish and produce spears.

Asparagus Growing Conditions

No matter which method you use for propagating asparagus plants, they must have well-drained soil with a moderate pH. Amend the soil with generous amounts of compost, leaf litter, and other rich organic components. Harvest the spears until they become small and spindly. Then allow them to fern. This allows the plant to gather energy for the following season's spear production. Cut the ferns back when they die. Remember, asparagus roots will spread over time but diminish in production. Divide them every three years or so for a non-stop harvest year after year.

How To Grow And Care For Asparagus Ferns

There are a number of asparagus species called asparagus fern, and each one is slightly different. Asparagus densiflorus, known as asparagus fern, has fern-like foliage in an arching mound to 3 feet (.9 m) tall. Asparagus setaceus, also called asparagus fern, is a bushy, evergreen vine that can grow to 20 feet (6 m) long. Asparagus retrofractus, commonly called “ming asparagus fern,” rarely grows above 8 feet (2.4 m) tall. Read on to learn how to care for asparagus fern. 

Quick Facts:

Botanical name: Asparagus spp.

Height: 2 - 20 Feet (.6 - 6 m) depending on species

Spread: 2 - 5 Feet (.6 - 1.5 m)  depending on species

Sun exposure: Full sun or part shade

Soil requirements: Light, rich, moist but well-drained soils

Hardiness zones: USDA zones 9 - 12 

When to plant: Plant in spring or fall

Asparagus Fern Care

Learn some basic rules for keeping your asparagus fern healthy and growing.

Light

Asparagus ferns grow well in part-shade locations with bright indirect light or filtered sun. While they can be grown in direct sun, hot afternoon sun can scorch the leaves. Too much shade can also fade the leaves.  Indoor asparagus ferns do best in south-facing windows.

Water

Provide regular water during the growing season from spring to autumn. Reduce water during winter.

Temperature & Humidity

Asparagus ferns grow well with regular summer temperatures. Winter temperatures should not dip below 50°F. In cooler regions, these plants can be grown as houseplants or overwintered indoors. Asparagus fern plants prefer higher humidity.

Soil

A common asparagus fern does best in organically rich soil that is consistently moist and well drained.

Fertilizer

Other than adding organic compost to the soil, no additional fertilizer is recommended for asparagus ferns.

Problems, Pests & Diseases

Several insect pests and diseases can be problems for the plant. Outdoor plants may be troubled by slugs, scale, spider mites, mealybugs and aphids. For both outdoor and indoor asparagus ferns, keep an eye out for leaf spot and root rots. Some species are considered invasive in warm climates.

Pruning

Pruning is occasionally required as part of asparagus fern care. Pinch back stem tips as needed to maintain plant form and promote dense foliage growth. If an outdoor asparagus fern plant loses its attractive shape, you can prune it back to soil level and allow it to regenerate.

Asparagus Fern Propagation

You can increase the number of asparagus ferns by propagatin them either by seed or division. Here’s how.

How to Grow Asparagus Fern Through Division

Cutting the plant’s rootball into sections and replanting is a fairly simple process. It may be a good idea to wait until the plant’s roots have filled the pot before uprooting the plant for division.

How to Grow an Asparagus Fern from Seed

Propagate by seed after collecting berries from the fern. Remove the seeds and plant them in well-draining, rich soil. The plant propagates easily from seeds and birds eating the berries often spread the seed to new locations.

Repotting

Part of asparagus fern care for those growing container pots is repotting. Move up to a larger pot every three or four years. 

Overwintering

If you live outside the hardiness zone range for asparagus ferns you can grow them in containers. Bring them indoors to overwinter if temperatures will dip below 50 degrees F.

Types of Asparagus Fern

Many types of asparagus species are called asparagus fern. Asparagus densiflorus, known as asparagus fern, has fern-like foliage in an arching mound up to 3 feet (.9 m) tall. Asparagus setaceus, also called asparagus fern, is a bushy, evergreen vine that can grow to 20 feet (6 m) long. Asparagus retrofractus, commonly called ming asparagus fern, rarely grows above 8 feet (2.4 m) tall.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are Asparagus Ferns Toxic to Cats and Dogs?

The berries of some asparagus ferns are toxic to cats and dogs.

How Do You Make an Asparagus Fern Bushy?

To make indoor plants more bushy, pinch back the tips of the branch stems. This will encourage dense foliage growth.

Harvesting asparagus is worth the wait, and wait you must if you have started a new asparagus bed from seed or crowns. The delectable spears are not of edible quality until the fourth year after planting seeds. Asparagus harvesting then becomes more worthwhile each year. Planting asparagus from seed allows one to grow any variety of the vegetable, but growing from one year old crowns allows for harvesting asparagus more quickly-- three years after planting crowns. Learning how to pick asparagus ensures the lifespan of your asparagus bed.

Male or Female Asparagus

Asparagus plants are either males or female. The female plant will develop many spears, but when harvesting asparagus one will have the most productive harvest from male plants. Learning how to harvest asparagus includes knowing the difference between the male and female plants, which is easily discovered once the delicious vegetable appears and grows. Female plants devote much of their energy to seed production and can be identified when red, berry-like seeds appear later in the season. Male plants, who devote no energy to seed production, offer thicker and longer spears which are what one desires when harvesting asparagus. Newer varieties of asparagus are available that offer only male plants not needing pollination.

How to Harvest Asparagus

Asparagus is one of the earliest vegetables from the garden in spring. Knowing when to pick asparagus will result in the most flavorful experience from your crop. In the third year of growth, after planting one year old crowns, spears of plants will be ready for asparagus harvesting. During this initial harvest year (year three), plants should only be harvested the first month of optimum production. Removing the spears for more than a month during this important year of growth will weaken and possibly kill the plant. Asparagus harvesting should begin when the stems are 5 to 8 inches (13-20 cm.) long and as big around as your finger. Of course, the width will vary from male to female plants. Length may dictate when to pick asparagus, but you will want to get it early enough in the season that it is tender. Cut or break the spears from the point closest to their attachment to the fibrous roots. Excessive disturbance of the area can result in damage to spears which have not yet broken ground. Once you know how to pick asparagus, you will delight in spring asparagus harvesting in future years. The properly prepared and harvested asparagus bed will increase in yearly production for many years, generally for as long as 15 years and possibly up to 30 years, with the vegetable becoming more abundant.

Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) is a long lasting perennial, and the first vegetable harvested each spring. It's prized for its flavor, rich in vitamins and minerals, and only 30 calories per cup. Add to this the grocery price and you'll easily justify the effort of digging a special bed for growing asparagus.

Asparagus Growing Conditions

Production can last 15 years in a well placed bed of asparagus. Care should be taken to find a spot that will receive at least eight hours of sunlight in a well drained area that can be deeply dug to properly plant your asparagus. Growing conditions should be given the greatest consideration since the bed will be more or less permanent.

How to Grow Asparagus

Knowing how to grow asparagus will give you the healthiest plants with the greatest yield. Buy one-year-old, healthy crowns. Dig a trench 8 to 10 inches (20-25 cm.) deep and wide enough to accommodate the growing asparagus roots. Apply one pound of triple superphosphate (0-46-0) or 2 pounds of superphosphate (0-20-0) for every 50 feet (15 m.) of trench. For ideal growing, asparagus trenches should be 4 feet (1 m.) apart. Place the crowns 18 inches (46 cm.) apart right on top of the fertilizer. Work liberal amounts of organic material into the dug soil to provide optimal asparagus growing conditions. Use this soil to backfill the trench to a depth of 2 inches (5 cm.). Backfill with more soil every time you see another 2 inches (5 cm.) of the tender new stalks of asparagus. Care must be taken to protect these delicate shoots. Once the trench is filled, the hard work is done, but there is a little more to know about how to grow asparagus successfully. Weed the bed thoroughly in early spring to keep the bed weed free. Feed the growing asparagus annually with a 10-10-10 granular fertilizer. Don't harvest until the third year and then only lightly. Thereafter, harvest up until July 1st by snapping the stalks off at the base. Then, the growing asparagus should be allowed to reach maturity to insure the development of healthy roots. If you follow these simple directions for asparagus care, you'll enjoy those tender and delicious spears for years to come.

Asparagus is a popular perennial vegetable grown in many home gardens. Sometimes home gardeners wish to take on the task of transplanting asparagus plants. While planting asparagus isn't that difficult, moving asparagus can be quite tricky if you don't know what you're doing. This task isn't recommended unless you have no other choice but to take on moving asparagus. Nonetheless, transplanting asparagus plants is possible.

When to Transplant Asparagus

While asparagus can be transplanted any time during dormancy, early spring is the most suitable, just before plants have begun waking up. This usually makes it easier when trying to dig through the tentacle-like roots. It's this complex root system that makes asparagus so difficult to transplant, as their entangled roots are not easily removed.

How to Transplant Asparagus

It's usually easier to use a spade fork to locate and divide tangled asparagus roots. Once divided, gently lift out the crown and lightly trim the roots. When planting asparagus, make a deep and wide enough trench to accommodate its extensive root system. Add some compost in the bottom of the trench and mound up some of the soil. Place the asparagus crown on top of the mounded soil, allowing the roots to spill over the sides. Make sure the pointed part of the asparagus plant is facing up and ensure the roots are adequately spread. Pack the soil down around it and water thoroughly. For best results, asparagus plants should be located in well-drained, sandy soil in areas with full sun. Transplanting or moving asparagus is difficult but not impossible. With careful planning and familiarity with how and when to transplant asparagus, this endeavor should at least be a successful one.

Anyone who is a fan of asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) but not a fan of the cost of buying them in the grocery store has wondered how to make an asparagus bed. The thought of being able to grow your own is tempting, but many people don't know how to go about planting asparagus. Read on to learn how to start asparagus from seed or how to grow it from crowns.

How to Start Asparagus from Seed

One thing to keep in mind when considering how to start asparagus from seed is that asparagus is a plant that requires patience, especially when starting it from seed. Most of the time, asparagus seeds are started indoors and than transplanted into the asparagus bed later on. First, soak the asparagus seeds overnight. You may want to nick or sand the seedcoat in order to get them to germinate faster. Sow the asparagus seeds about a 1/2 inch (1.27 cm.) deep and about 2 or 3 inches (5 or 7.6 cm.) apart. Keep them in temperatures of 65 to 80 F. (18-27 C.). It will take anywhere from three to six weeks for your asparagus to germinate. Transplant your asparagus seedlings to the asparagus bed once the seedlings have reached 6 inches (15 cm.) in height.

Planting Asparagus Crowns

Most people will turn to planting asparagus crowns when considering how to make an asparagus bed. Planting crowns will establish your asparagus bed faster so that you can harvest the asparagus sooner. Purchase your asparagus crowns from a reputable source. Order them so that they arrive about a month before your last frost date. When the asparagus arrives, it will be dry looking. Soak it in tepid water for two to three hours before you're ready to plant. Asparagus planting instructions recommend that you plant the crowns 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm.) apart. Cover with about 2 inches (5 cm.) of soil. Water the bed well after planting asparagus crowns. Be sure to provide sufficient water until the crowns show sprouts.

Asparagus Planting Instructions

Now that you know how to start asparagus from seed and from crowns, there are a few things you need to know about how to make an asparagus bed.

1. Asparagus are heavy feeders - Make sure that your asparagus bed starts out with rich soil and that amendments are added to the soil every year.
2. It takes three years before you will be able to harvest your asparagus. If you grow from seed, you should wait 4 four years.
3. Asparagus cannot tolerate competition and is easily pushed out by other plants (like weeds). Be diligent in keeping your asparagus bed weed free.
4. Asparagus needs a dormant period; without dormancy, asparagus just can't produce. The plants need a period of cold or drought every year in order to keep producing.

Now that you have your asparagus planting instructions, you know how to make an asparagus bed and all you need is a little patience.

Growing and harvesting asparagus is a gardening challenge that requires patience and a little extra care to get started. One of the things that are important to asparagus care is preparing the asparagus beds for autumn and cutting the asparagus back.

When to Cut Asparagus Back

Ideally, asparagus should be cut back in the fall but it is important that you wait until all of the foliage has died back and turned brown or yellow. This will normally happen after the first frost, but it can happen without frost in areas that do not receive frost. Once all of the foliage has died, cut the asparagus down to about 2 inches (5 cm.) above the ground.

Why You Should Be Cutting Asparagus Back

It is a commonly held belief that cutting asparagus in the autumn will help to produce better quality spears the next year. This belief may or may not be true, but it could be tied to the fact that removing the old foliage helps to keep the asparagus beetle from overwintering in the bed. Cutting asparagus back also helps to reduce the chances of disease and other pests.

Other Autumn Asparagus Care

Once you have cut the asparagus back, add several inches (10 cm.) of mulch to your asparagus bed. This will help to smother the weeds in the bed and will help fertilize the bed for next year. Compost or well-rotted manure makes an excellent mulch for asparagus in autumn. The above tips for autumn asparagus care apply to asparagus beds that are newly planted or well-established.