If you want to add a little late summer color to the landscape, think about planting blue wood aster (Symphyotrichum cordifolium). Also called heart-leaved aster, this pale blue flowering plant is native to dry to moist areas of eastern to central North America.

In late summer (August to September), this native aster variety blooms with small, light blue petaled flowers accented with yellow centers. This cutie is easy to grow in USDA zones 3-8 where it attracts various pollinators and other insects.

Interested in growing a blue wood aster? Read on for care information.

Blue Wood Aster Care

Growing asters in your perennial garden adds delicate beauty and blue wood asters are particularly pretty. They are low-maintenance perennials that have few problems, especially if you provide them with the correct light, water, soil, fertilizer and temperature. You can purchase blue wood aster seeds from Walmart or you local garden center.

Light

Blue wood asters are tolerant of both full sun and partial shade, but they seem to do best in part shade locations.

Water

Young plants should be kept consistently moist. Once established, provide plants with an inch (2.5 cm) of water each week depending on weather conditions. Avoid overwatering which can foster fungal disease.

Temperature & Humidity

Blue wood aster plants prefer temps of between 60-75 F (15-24 C) with a moderate humidity level. Too much humidity can lead to powdery mildew or other fungal problems. Keeping foliage tidy and deadheading spent flowers can help promote air circulation which will help prevent fungal problems.

Soil

This native aster is unfussy regarding its soil provided it is well-draining soil. It tolerates sand, loam and clay well.

Fertilizer

There is little need to fertilize this native plant, however, you may apply a balanced plant food in the spring to encourage growth.

Problems, Pests & Diseases

A robust plant, blue wood aster has few pests, diseases or other problems, but some common aster plant diseases are possible.

It does not like to be overwatered which can lead to fungal disease. Occasionally poorly draining clay soils will cause aster wilt, and the plant is slightly prone to powdery mildew, leaf spot and rust.

While most plants will stay around the 2-3 foot (61-91 cm)mark, some taller plants will benefit from staking.

Pruning

This self-sowing native aster can be cut to the ground to prohibit seeding and to maintain a tidy appearance in the landscape in late summer. Deadheading spent flowers will also help prevent it from becoming too weedy.

Propagation

Blue wood aster plants propagate primarily through seeds, but it can also be divided. If you want to plant aster seeds, you can harvest seeds from dried flower heads in late summer to early fall. Then sow the seeds in late fall to early spring. Store your collected seeds securely in a seed organizer like this one from Amazon.

Repotting

Blue wood asters make excellent container grown plants. Plants grown in containers will need more frequent watering than those grown in the garden.

Frequently Asked Questions

If you have a garden, you likely have one or more members of the aster family (Asteraceae) growing. This is the largest family of flowering plants, with about 1,100 genera and more than 20,000 species. They range from sunflowers and daisies to dandelions, lettuce, and chicory. The only other family of flowering plants with a similar number of species are legumes and orchids.

About the Asteraceae Family

The Asteraceae family is often called the daisy or sunflower family. It is one of the easiest families to recognize for its distinctive characteristics, in spite of the huge number of individual species.

Asteraceae flowers are the most recognizable aspects of this family. The shape and structure of a daisy or sunflower is typical of this family. However, what most people don’t realize is that what we call a flower is actually an inflorescence with multiple flowers.

The small flowers are called florets and are grouped together on a receptacle. What you probably think of as petals surrounding the receptacle are actually bracts. Some species have one row of bracts, while others have multiples.

Inflorescence is the best way to identify Asteraceae members, but there are some other common traits. The fruit is an achene: a single dry seed that doesn’t have to open. They are dispersed by a pappus. Picture the seeds of a dandelion. The achene is the small, brown part at the bottom and the pappus is the white, hairy structure that allows it to disperse.

Most Asteraceae are herbaceous perennials or annuals. Some are shrubs, and trees are rare in this family. The leaves are usually alternate or opposite and rarely whorled.

Asteraceae Family Plants List

A list of all the plants in this family would be incredibly long. Here are some good representative examples.

Asteraceae Crop Species

Some members of this group are important crop plants. Lettuces, for instance, belong to the Asteraceae family and are members of the Lactuca genus. Artichokes are also members, as are sunflowers and Carthamus, which are used to produce safflower oil. Stevia is increasingly grown as an alternative sweetener.

Other crops in the family produced to a lesser degree include radicchio, endive, chamomile, calendula, echinacea (coneflower), tarragon, and absinthe. Chrysanthemum is increasingly grown to produce a substance, pyrethrin, used to make an environmentally-friendly pesticide.

Ornamental Species

A large group of Asteraceae includes all the ornamental flowers in this family. These are often perennials, but sometimes annuals, used in gardens for their attractive blooms:

• Asters
• Blanketflower
• Chrysanthemums
• Coneflower
• Cornflower
• Cosmos
• Coreopsis
• Dahlias
• Daisies
• Marigolds
• Sunflowers
• Tansy
• Yarrow
• Zinnias

Asteraceae Weeds

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, of course, and not all weedy plants are despised or unwanted. However, plants in the family that are typically considered weeds include dandelions, goldenrod, thistles, ragweed, ragwort, and cocklebur.

Less Common Asteraceae

In addition to the typical species in this family that most North American gardeners are familiar with, there are others. These include shrubs and trees and species that grow in other parts of the world.

A striking Asteraceae that grows in Hawaii is known as a silver sword, not to be confused with silver sword philodendron. It grows in Maui’s craters and has rosettes of silvery leaves and a large flower stalk. Short silver hairs evolved on the leaves to protect it from the intense radiation from the sun at 10,000 feet.

Giant sea dahlia is a shrubby plant with daisy-like flowers that grows on the Channel Islands off the coast of California. The daisy tree is one of the rare tree members of this family. It grows in Mexico and has daisies that grow from the branches. Boneseed is a South African shrub in the Asteraceae family that grows in Australia as a weed.

This impressively large family of flowering plants is economically important, but for most gardeners is simply prized for pretty flowers. Enjoy the Asteraceae that grow in your garden and keep an eye out for native species in the wild.

There are hundreds of different species of aster, each ranging greatly in terms of growth habit, and varying in their specific needs. Though the Aster genus is quite large, the term “aster” is often used to describe a much smaller number of common plants. While annual asters are a popular choice among cut flower growers, flower gardeners also make use of perennials within the landscape and in naturalized wildflower beds and meadows.

In this article we will discuss some general growing guidelines that will keep your asters looking their best.

Where Do Asters Grow?

Answering the question, “where do asters grow best?” will vary slightly from one species to the next. Considering the overall appearance and bloom time will be key in crafting the most attractive growing space possible. Though many types of annual aster will look at home in formal flower beds, some species may be better suited for use in naturalized plantings. Several types may also be used to extend bloom time, with some species of aster serving as an invaluable source of pollen well into the autumn.

Most asters will have similar requirements for growth, with only subtle variation. Before planting, consider the growing conditions in your garden. Aster plants have been known to grow well in a wide range of soil types. While a rich loam is ideal, gardeners have also found success growing in clay, as well as soils with poor fertility.

Like many plants, both annual and perennial flowers will prefer a location that drains well. Though several types of the plant will be able to withstand brief periods of drought, excessively wet or waterlogged soils may lead to the development of fungal diseases or root and crown rot.

Light requirements for each species of plant will also be important. Most asters grow best in full sun, though some may benefit from shade during the hottest parts of the afternoon. Ample light will allow the plants to develop strong stems and will help to promote an abundance of bloom. Asters which do not receive sufficient light may demonstrate stunted growth, become leggy, and may even fail to flower.

Growing Asters The Right Way

Where conditions are ideal, growers may find that some perennial types of asters may spread. This occurs through reseeding, and by underground rhizomes. Fortunately, aster plants are generally well-behaved and are not considered to be invasive in most regions. Those with limited garden space may be delighted to find that many asters are a good candidate for growth in containers, and will look especially attractive when planted near porches or patios.

Though most types of aster are relatively easy to grow, they may be affected by several common garden problems. Pests like aphids, mites, and Japanese beetles are of special concern. Though infestations of these insects may decrease the ornamental value of the plant, they seldom lead to its demise. The same can be said with foliar issues, such as powdery mildew and leaf spot.

Purple dome aster is a purple, daisy-like flower that adds cheer to any garden or perennial bed. With some basic purple dome aster information, this is an easy plant to grow. Read on for more.

What are Purple Dome Asters? 

Also known as purple dome New England asters, these pretty perennials get their name from the compact mounds they form as they grow. If you’re looking for a clumping, dense perennial, this is a great option. 

Use purple dome asters as tight borders, massed in beds, in containers, and in naturalized areas. Purple dome asters grow up to about 18 to 24 inches (46-61 cm.) in height and just a little less wide. 

They will attract pollinators, including bees and butterflies, to your garden. Purple dome asters also make excellent cut flowers, although the stems are short. 

Growing Purple Dome Aster

Your dome aster will need well-drained soil with good fertility. Add compost before planting. It should get full sunlight and good airflow between clumps, so don’t plant them too closely together. Powdery mildew is one of the few issues this flower may have, and airflow helps prevent it. 

To achieve a bushy, well-formed structure, start pinching back stems on your purple dome aster in early to midsummer. This may delay blooming but will ultimately give you more flowers in the summer. Pinching also helps manage the height of the flowers, which may require staking otherwise. 

You can leave spent flowers on in naturalized settings to let the asters reseed. If you want a neater border or bed, deadhead the blooms. Divide purple dome asters every two to three years to keep them healthy and thriving.

Asters are among the most versatile plants for the home landscape. While annual asters will bloom profusely in borders and in cut flower gardens each growing season, perennial species of aster are often overlooked. 

These hardy and reliable plants can also serve as an integral part of the ornamental garden, naturalized landscapes, or even wildflower meadows. Due to their ability to attract and feed large numbers of pollinators, perennial asters are an especially popular choice for gardeners dedicated to creating habitat for bees and butterflies. While the options are nearly limitless, those who choose to grow a species called Aster tongolensis may especially want to understand the value of these perennials. But, what is Aster tongolensis?

What is Aster Tongolensis?

When researching another common name for the plant, East Indies aster, the info most frequently notes the abundance of tall flower stems which stand high above plant foliage. Reaching heights of roughly 24 inches (61 cm.) at bloom time, these plants are often used in short flower borders or rock gardens. The large 2 inch (5 cm.) flowers open with yellow centers and toothy, narrow petals. Bright bluish flowers first appear in early spring and continue into mid-summer. Their large hardiness range (USDA zones 4-8) also makes them an ideal candidate for growth in many regions with especially harsh winter conditions. 

How to Grow Aster Tongolensis

If you’d like to grow the Aster tongolensis, you’ll first need to locate seeds or transplants. Though the plant itself may be difficult to find at local garden centers, seeds can be found at many reputable online retailers. 

East Indies aster info regarding seed germination notes that the plant can be started indoors about 6-8 weeks before the last frost date in the garden. Once the asters have several true sets of leaves, they may then be hardened off and transplanted into the growing space. 

Beyond planting, Aster tongolensis care is minimal. These low maintenance plants thrive in a wide range of soil conditions, including those which may be quite poor. Providing the aster with ample sunlight and consistent moisture throughout the season is key to its bloom and success. 

Like many other aster species, it’s wise to consider potential issues related to fungal diseases such as powdery mildew. 

Fall-blooming asters provide one of the last colorful treats of the season before winter's cold kiss. They are hardy plants with sturdy dispositions and are rarely bothered seriously by pests or disease. Aster rhizoctonia rot, however, is one disease that crops up in the plants from time to time. This fungus is found in many types of plants and causes a variety of symptoms.

What is Aster Root Rot?

Rhizoctonia affects many types of ornamental perennials and even a few herbs and shrubs. This widespread fungus causes blights, rots, and damping off. Aster stem rot information indicates the disease as starting in soil. The stem rot can progress in the plant to leaves and blooms.

Aster stem and root rot is a result of the fungus Rhizoctonia solani. The pathogen is a soil borne organism that occurs in many types of soil. It remains in soil as mycelium and sclerotia that spread when soil is disturbed.

The fungus can attack roots, stems and leaves. It can be difficult to identify when the disease starts in the roots unless you dig the plant up. The first obvious signs might be on any leaves touching the soil where the leaf wilts and turns dark brown. Stems will develop sunken areas of decay that turn reddish brown. If you pull the plant up, the roots will be dark brown and mushy.

Conditions Favoring Aster Rhizoctonia Rot

In a greenhouse, rhizoctonia rot can spread rapidly due to shared potting medium and spores that can splash into other containers in crowded situations. It is most prevalent in warm, moist weather followed by dry conditions. Crowding and lack of air flow promote the formation of spores.

In the garden, the fungus can persist in the soil for years and attacks many types of plants, which makes crop rotation mostly ineffective. It can even survive in contaminated pots and containers, or gardening tools and boots.

Good cultural care of the plant can minimize some of the damage from the disease but, eventually, the plant will succumb to aster stem and root rot.

Controlling Aster Rhizoctonia

Because this is a soil borne pathogen, control starts with your soil. If you are using a potting mix, make sure it is sterile and do not reuse old soil from other plants. Before planting anything, thoroughly clean all containers and tools.

In the greenhouse, space plants well away from each other and use a fan to increase air circulation. Also, avoid watering the plants from overhead.

Give plants correct cultural care, as healthy plants are less bothered by the fungus than stressed specimens. If necessary, apply a fungicide soil drench. Another method of control includes solarization of soil. The key is sanitation to avoid spreading the disease.

Growing asters with late-season, cool weather blooms fills in garden spaces where other flowers have not made it through the summer heat. Daisy-like blossoms of the aster, sometimes called Michaelmas daisies, welcome pollinators and those tending the flower garden alike-- until the gardener finds a case of aster wilt disease. Wilting asters are difficult to revive once blossoms appear and young plants with aster wilt symptoms rarely survive. Learn what you can do to save your asters in this article.

What Causes Wilting Asters?

Aster fusarium wilt is a fungal issue that is soilborne and may remain in your beds indefinitely. It may also come in with soil your plants are potted in.

Aster wilt most often attacks those in bloom. Leaves on the bottom or one side yellow and buds and blooms drop from the infection. A brownish fungal discoloration of vascular tissue is present on the stem near the base.

Managing Aster Wilt Symptoms

Affected plants should be removed and disposed of properly so the fungus does not spread. Burn or put in the trash. Don’t compost this or other diseased plant material.

If you’ve lost asters to wilt, avoid planting them again in the same area. Avoid moving this soil to other flowerbeds. You may remove and dispose of it and replace with fresh potting medium.

Replant with disease-resistant cultivars, such as Gem mixed or Dwarf Queen, keeping a close eye on the growing asters for wilt symptoms.

While it can be difficult to learn how to treat aster wilt, solarizing the soil between plantings sometimes kills the fungus. To solarize the soil, rototill the area and break up all clumps. Water in and allow to dry out for two days. Cover the area with a clear plastic, such as anti-condensation film, tucking the edges into the soil. Leave the wrap in place four to six weeks in summer, sometimes longer.

Aster flowers are cheery, star-shaped blossoms that bloom in the fall when other flowering plants are finished for the season. While asters are hardy, easy to grow, and are, indeed, a welcome sight in the early fall, they do have their share of problems. One such issue, powdery mildew on asters, causes damage to the plant-- rendering it unsightly. Treating aster powdery mildew relies on early identification of the symptoms of this fungal disease.

Aster Powdery Mildew Symptoms

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease caused by Erysiphe cichoracearum. It is one of the most common diseases found in plants and afflicts not only flowers but vegetables and woody plants as well.

The first indication of the disease is a white, powdery growth visible on the upper leaves. This white powder is made up of threads of fungal tissue (mycelium) and mats of asexual spores (condia). Infected young leaves become distorted and new growth may be stunted. Infected buds often fail to open. Leaves may wither and die. The disease is most prevalent in the spring and fall.

Powdery Mildew Aster Control

Powdery mildew fungal spores are easily transmitted via water and air movement. Infected plants do not need to be under stress or injured for this fungal disease to afflict them, and the infection process only takes between three and seven days.

The pathogen overwinters in infected plant debris and survives on weed hosts and other crops. Conditions fostering infection are a relative humidity greater than 95%, moderate temps of 68 to 85 degrees F. (16-30 C.), and cloudy days.

Keep an eye out for any signs of powdery mildew on asters. An epidemic can occur practically overnight, so it’s important to be vigilant. Remove any plant debris and dispose of any infected plants. Keep the areas surrounding the asters free from weeds and volunteer plants.

Otherwise, it is advisable to spray the plants with a recommended fungicide at the first sign of the disease or apply sulfur. Be aware that sulfur can damage plants if applied when temps are over 85 degrees F. (30 C.). Powdery mildew can develop resistance to fungicides, with the exception of sulfur, so be sure to alternate fungicide applications.

Douglas aster plants (Symphyotrichum subspicatum) are native perennials growing in the Pacific Northwest. They bloom all season long, producing attractive, papery flowers without much plant care required. If you are interested in growing Douglas asters in your backyard, you’ll want to learn more about this species. Read on for Douglas aster plant information.

Douglas Aster Plant Info

Douglas aster plants grow in the wild in the area known as the coast forest in California, Oregon, and Washington. This is the area extending from the ocean to the subalpine mountain area. You’ll also find Douglas aster flowers in northwestern Canada and throughout Alaska. The blooms of this perennial look a lot like New England aster flowers.

Douglas aster was named after David Douglas, a botanist working in the northwest region of the United States. The Douglas fir also carries his name.

Douglas aster flowers are very popular with gardeners in the Pacific Northwest coastal areas. They are ray flowers (like daisies) with bright purple-blue papery petals and a yellow central disk. According to Douglas aster information, the flowers put on a show from July through September. The plant is very hardy, with creeping rhizomes that help it spread.

Growing Douglas Asters

You can start growing Douglas asters if you live in an area where they will thrive. Propagate a new plant by dividing a mature flower clump, taking basil cuttings, or planting seeds.

Douglas aster flowers usually grow best in moist, well-drained soil. They sometimes thrive in wetland areas as well. They need a location in sun or partial shade. The ideal climate for them will offer long days while the plant is getting started, then shorter days when it is flowering – much like other asters.

Douglas Aster Plant Care

In terms of Douglas aster plant care, remember that these are tough native plants and require little in terms of care once established. They tolerate drought and show robust growth in most conditions.

They are used to taking care of themselves in the wild and, therefore, Douglas aster care is minimal. If you choose to fertilize, use a balanced product. Leach the soil to avoid salt build up.

In addition to the flower display they offer, Douglas aster plants help local wildlife. They attract many types of pollinating insects, including many species of butterflies and bees. Given their long bloom period, you can watch a progression of pollinators develop as the season passes.

When fall is just around the corner and the last of the summer blossoms are fading, in march the asters, famous for their late season blossoms. Asters are hardy native perennials with daisy-like flowers prized not only for their profuse late season blooms but also as essential pollinators. Asters are available in a slew of hues, but are there asters that are white? Yes, there are an abundance of white aster flowers to be had as well. The following article contains a list of white aster varieties that make lovely additions to your garden.

Types of White Aster

If you want white aster flowers to accent other specimens in the garden or simply like asters that are white, then there are plenty to choose from. Callistephus chinensis ‘Dwarf Milady White’ is a white aster variety that, although it is a dwarf variety, doesn’t skimp on bloom size. This variety of aster is heat resistant and disease and pest free. It will bloom profusely from summer until the first hard frost. Their smaller size makes them ideal for container gardening. Callistephus ‘Tall Needle Unicorn White’ is another white aster flower that blooms late into the season. This variety of aster has large flowers with showy, needle-like petals. The plant reaches a couple of feet in height (60 cm.) and makes wonderful sturdy cut flowers. Another white aster, Callistephus ‘Tall Paeony Duchess White,’ also called peony aster, has large, chrysanthemum-like blooms. ‘Tall Pompon White’ grows to 20 inches (50 cm.) in height with large pompom blooms. This annual attracts butterflies and other pollinators. White Alpine asters (Aster alpinus var. albus) are covered in a profusion of small white daisies with sunny golden centers. This native to Canada and Alaska will thrive in the rock garden and, unlike other types of asters, blooms in the late spring to late summer. While Alpinus white asters do not bloom for an extensive period of time, they will freely self-sow if not deadheaded. Flat Top White asters (Doellingeria umbellata) are a tall, up to 7 feet (2 m.), cultivar that thrives in partial shade. A perennial, these asters bloom with daisy-like flowers in late summer through fall and can be grown in USDA zones 3-8. False aster (Boltonia asteroides) is a perennial white aster flower that also blooms late into the season. A prolific bloomer, false aster will tolerate wet to moist soils and can be planted in USDA zones 3-10. For the most part, asters are easy to grow. They are not picky about soil but do need full sun to partial shade depending upon the cultivar. Start aster seeds indoors about 6-8 weeks prior to the last frost in your area or, in regions with a longer growing season, direct sow in a prepared bed of well-drained soil amended with organic matter.

Each year, more and more people make the choice to plant native wildflowers as a means to attract and maintain healthy numbers of pollinators within their gardens. With the recent decline in numbers of bees and other beneficial insects, planting nectar-rich flowers is one way to ensure a brighter future for these species. One such pollinator plant, calico aster, is an ideal candidate for attracting bees to your flower garden.

Calico Aster Plant Info

Calico aster (Symphyotrichum lateriflorum) is a perennial wildflower which is native to the eastern United States. Most often occuring in USDA zones 4 through 8, this member of the aster family rewards growers with a profusion of blooms in late summer and into early fall. Although individual calico aster flowers are no larger than half an inch (1.5 cm.), large, white clusters of the flowers bloom up and down the length of each stem, making this plant a beautiful addition to ornamental flower borders. Often reaching heights of 4 feet (1 m.) tall, well-established plants require little to no care or maintenance.

How to Grow Calico Asters

Also known as woodland aster, these plants prefer a well-draining location which offers partial shade during the hottest parts of the day. Natural growing calico aster plants are often found near roadsides, in low-lying areas, and near the edges of forests. When choosing a final planting location, consideration should be taken in regards to soil moisture. Ideally, these perennials should be planted where soils remain relatively moist. However, be sure to avoid excessively soggy soil, as this could lead to root rot. While these plants can be purchased and transplanted into their final locations, finding locally available plants may be difficult. Luckily, calico aster plants are easily started from seed. There are several options when choosing to start this plant from seed. It can be started indoors in seed trays as well as directly sown in the garden. Sow the seeds into flats and place in a warm location. When seeds have germinated, harden them off, and transplant into their final location after all chance of frost has passed. Since the seed does not require any special treatment to germinate, growers also have the option of direct sowing into the landscape after all chance of frost passed. Regardless of which germination method chosen, ensure that the perennials are situated in a nutrient-rich area, as plants can be heavy feeders. Some perennial flowers, when started from seed, require time to become established. Newly transplanted seedlings may not flower the first year after planting. Once established, and provided its current growing conditions are suitable, little calico aster care is needed.

Asters are prized for the blaze of bright color they bring to the garden for several weeks in late summer and early fall when most other blooming plants have gone dormant. Some gardeners prefer to plant asters in a rainbow of hues, while others enjoy the impact created by a single drift of color. If pink happens to be your shade of choice, you’re in luck. You can select from a long list of pink aster varieties. Read on for a few of the most popular pink aster flowers.

Pink Aster Varieties

Below are some of the more commonly grown types of pink aster:

• Alma Potschke – This variety lights up the garden with its bright reddish-pink aster flowers and yellow centers. Height 3.5 feet. (1 m.)
• Barr’s Pink – This pretty aster consists of lilac-pink blooms with golden yellow centers. It reaches heights around 3.5 feet (1 m.).
• Hazy Pink – Dark raspberry pink is the color of this lovely aster. And it’s a lower growing variety of only about 12 to 15 inches (30-38 cm.).
• Harrington’s Pink – If you’re looking for something a little larger in pink, then this taller salmon-pink aster might fit the bill at around 4 feet (1 m.).
• Red Star – Deep rose with yellow centers make this pink aster plant a nice addition to the garden, reaching 1 to 1 ½ feet (0.5 m.).
• Patricia Ballard – The lavender-pink, semi-double flowers on this aster are sure to please as it soars to heights of around 3 feet (1 m.).
• Vibrant Dome – Bright pink with yellow centers makes this pink aster variety a must have in the garden. Overall height for this plant is about 18 inches (46 cm.).
• Peter Harrison – Pale pink with yellow centers Height 18 inches. (46 cm.)
• Magic Pink – Raspberry pink with yellow centers and semi-double blooms are the “magic” of this pink flowering aster plant. Another one that grows a bit smaller at 18 inches (46 cm.).
• Woods Pink – Clear pink with gold centers make a lovely addition in the pink flower garden. This aster plant reaches 12 to 18 inches (30-46 cm.) tall.
• Honeysong Pink – This “honey” of a plant produces attractive soft pink aster flowers with yellow centers and grows about 3.5 feet (1 m.) tall.

Growing Pink Asters

Growing and caring for asters that are pink isn’t any different than that of other aster varieties. Asters tolerate partial shade, but they prefer bright sunlight. Well-drained soil is a must for healthy asters. Stake tall varieties at planting time, and water asters at the base of the plant to keep the foliage as dry as possible. Cut asters back before new growth appears in spring. Pinch asters in late spring or very early summer to encourage full, bushy growth. As a general rule, don’t pinch after July 4. Deadhead wilted blooms to encourage blooming until the end of the season. Asters benefit from division every two to three years.

Asters are one of the late season's standout flowers. They help usher in autumn and provide elegant beauty for weeks. These flowers come in numerous colors and sizes but the purple aster varieties have regal intensity and provide particularly impactful landscape color. Continue reading for a list of the best purple aster flowers for the garden.

Why Use Asters That are Purple?

While purple asters have several different tones, their cool hue sets off numerous other colors. When paired with yellow flowers, the effect is absolutely stunning with the sunny tone blending with the stormy sky hue. When you plant different types of purple aster in a grouping, the effect is jaw dropping. Since purple is one of the "cool colors" on the color wheel, it is supposed to relax you. That makes purple aster flowers an excellent choice for a meditation garden or just a quiet corner of the yard that needs a calming influence. In addition to color selection, asters come in several specific niche varieties, and each has its own characteristics to add to the elegant flowers.

• Aromatic asters
• Calico asters
• Heart Leaf asters
• Alpine asters
• Heath asters
• Smooth asters
• Wood asters

Small Purple Aster Varieties

Asters range from 8 inches (20 cm.) to 8 feet (2 m.) tall. The little guys are perfect for containers, borders and planted en masse. Some of the cutest dwarf varieties have compact form but still pack a powerful purple punch. These shorter purple asters are generally in the New York aster group and include:

• Wood's Purple - Semi-double purple flowers with yellow centers
• Purple Dome - Lavender-purple. Plant forms a small dome or mound
• Professor Anton Kippenberg - Deeply blue-purple, long-lasting blooms
• Alpine - Early bloomer
• Lady in Blue - Sweet light purplish blue blooms
• Raydon's Favorite - Fragrant foliage

Tall Asters That are Purple

There are over 200 species commonly sold in the U.S. with more than 400 available in the U.K. The statuesque types of purple aster lend themselves to the backs of perennial beds, containers and as stand-alone specimens.

• Tartarian Aster - Lush and thick plant with violet blooms
• Hella Lacy - Up to 60 inches tall (152 cm.)
• Bluebird Smooth - A classic purple with yellow centers
• October Skies - An aromatic aster with small lavender flowers
• Short's Aster - Airy foliage and delicate light purple flowers
• Eventide - Semi-double blooms

A really spectacular architectural specimen is the Climbing aster. It doesn't really climb but has extremely long stems that grow up to 12 feet (3.6 m.). This extreme aster has purplish pink flowers. It can look spindly over time unless cropped at the end of the season.

Asters are popular in perennial flower beds because they produce gorgeous flowers later in the season to keep the garden blooming well into fall. They are also great because they come in so many different colors. Asters that are blue are great for adding a special splash of color.

Growing Blue Aster Flowers

Asters of any color are easy to grow, another reason they are so popular with gardeners. They prefer full sun to partial shade and need well-drained soil. Blue aster flowers and other cultivars do well in zones 4-8. These are perennials that will come back year after year, so divide them every couple of years to keep the plants healthy. Deadheading asters is important because they will self-seed but won’t be true to the parent type. You can either deadhead or cut the stems down when they finish flowering. Expect to get tall, pretty plants, up to four feet (1.2 m.) in height, and flowers that you can enjoy in place or to cut for arrangements.

Blue Aster Varieties

The standard aster color is purple, but cultivars have been developed that come in a range of colors. There are many different types of blue aster plants that can be used to add a splash of unusual color to a bed or border:

• ‘Marie Ballard’ – This cultivar is shorter than others, at 2.5 feet (0.7 m.) and produces double flowers in pale blue.
• ‘Ada Ballard’ – ‘Ada Ballard’ is a little taller than Marie, at three feet (1 m.), and its blooms are a shade of violet-blue.
• ‘Bluebird’ – The sky-blue flowers on ‘Bluebird’ grow in large clusters of small flowers and are prolific. It also has good disease resistance.
• ‘Blue’ – The name of this cultivar says it all, except you should also know that this is a shorter type of aster, growing only to about 12 inches (30 cm.).
• ‘Bonny Blue’ – ‘Bonny Blue’ produces violet-blue flowers with cream-colored centers. This is another shorter cultivar, growing to 15 inches (38 cm.) maximum.

If you love asters and you want to add a little blue to your beds, you can’t go wrong with any of these cultivars.

More and more, American gardeners are turning to native wildflowers to provide easy-care beauty in the backyard. One you might want to consider is bushy aster (Symphyotrichum dumosum) for pretty, daisy-like flowers. If you don’t know much about bushy aster plants, read on for additional information. We’ll also provide some tips on how to grow bushy aster in your own garden.

Bushy Aster Information

Bushy aster, also called American aster, is a native wildflower. It grows in the wild in New England down through the Southeast. You’ll find it on the coastal plains, as well as in woodlands, grasslands, meadows, and fields. In some states, like Alabama, bushy aster plants are most often seen growing in wetlands, like bogs and swamps. They can also be found on riverbanks and beside streams. According to bushy aster information, the shrubs grow to about 3 feet (1 m.) tall and are vigorous and attractive when blooming. Bushy aster flowers consist of strap-shaped petals growing around a central disk and look something like small daisies. These plants can grow white or lavender flowers.

How to Grow Bushy Aster

If you are thinking of growing bushy aster, you shouldn’t have much trouble. These native aster plants are often grown as garden ornamental for their interesting foliage and small flowers. The plants are sun lovers. They prefer a site where they get a full day of direct sun. They also like moist, well-draining soil where they spread quickly thanks to their vigorous, woody rhizomes. Growing bushy aster plants in your backyard is not difficult. You’ll end up with flowers from summer through fall, and bushy aster flowers attract pollinators like bees. On the other hand, when the plants are not in bloom, they are less attractive and can look weedy. One way to combat this is to try growing bushy aster dwarf cultivars. These thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8. The cultivar 'Woods Blue' produces blue flowers on short stems, while ‘Woods Pink' and 'Woods Purple' offer compact bushy aster flowers in pink and purple on stems to 18 inches (0.5 m.) tall.

Heath aster (Symphyotrichum ericoides syn. Aster ericoides) is a hardy perennial with fuzzy stems and masses of tiny, daisy-like, white aster flowers, each with a yellow eye. Growing heath aster isn’t difficult, as the plant tolerates a variety of conditions, including drought, rocky, sandy, or clay soil and badly eroded areas. It is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 3-10. Read on to learn the basics of growing heath aster.

Heath Aster Information

Heath aster is native to Canada and the Eastern and Central areas of the United States. This aster plant thrives in prairies and meadows. In the home garden, it well suited for wildflower gardens, rock gardens, or borders. It is often used in prairie restoration projects, as it responds vigorously after fire. A variety of bees and other beneficial insects are attracted to heath aster. It is also visited by butterflies. It’s a good idea to check with your local cooperative extension office before growing heath aster, as the plant is invasive in some areas and may crowd out other vegetation if not carefully controlled. Conversely, the plant is endangered in some states, including Tennessee.

How to Grow Heath Asters

Very little care is necessary for growing heath asters. Here are a few tips on heath aster plant care to get you started: Plant seeds directly outdoors in autumn or before the last frost in spring. Germination usually occurs in about two weeks. Alternatively, divide mature plants in spring or early autumn. Divide the plant into smaller sections, each with healthy buds and roots. Plant heath aster in full sunlight and well-drained soil. Water new plants regularly to keep the soil moist, but never soggy. Mature plants benefit from occasional irrigation during hot, dry weather. Heath aster is rarely bothered by pests or disease.

Powdery mildew on aster plants will not necessarily harm your flowers, but it doesn’t look very nice. This fungal infection feeds on asters and other plants, but it can be prevented and treated by minimizing the conditions that promote its growth and using fungicides.

About Powdery Mildew of Asters

Powdery mildew is caused by a fungus. There are several species that cause the infestation, each evolved to be parasitic on certain types of plants. That means that if you get powdery mildew on aster plants, it will not infect plants from other families. The fungus grows on the surface of leaves and reaches into cells to feed on nutrients. It needs the plant to be alive to grow, so it actually favors conditions that also favor the host plant. You can recognize aster powdery mildew by the white to gray powdery patches on the surface of leaves. They will spread and grow, eventually covering more of the leaf surface. The plant may stay healthy for a long time before the leaves finally dry and whither.

Treating Aster with Powdery Mildew

You can prevent a powdery mildew infection in your asters by creating conditions in which the fungus is less likely to grow. The most favorable conditions for the growth of powdery mildew include low light, moderate temperatures, and high humidity. You cannot necessarily control all of these factors, of course, but there are steps you can take to make it more difficult for the infestation to take root:

• Avoid getting the leaves of asters wet.
• Water only at the roots to minimize humidity around the plants.
• Clear out debris from the bed in the fall.
• Remove and destroy any foliage that is affected by powdery mildew as soon as you see signs of it.

If you notice signs of powdery mildew on aster early, you can probably manage the situation and prevent the fungal infection from spreading to other plants. If you can’t get the infection under control by managing the environment, you can try treating the affected plants with chemicals. Visit your local nursery or extension office to get the right kind of fungicide for powdery mildew. Apply the fungicide every ten days to two weeks. If you still struggle to control powdery mildew, you may want to clear out all the asters from the affected bed, destroy them, clean out the bed, and try growing asters again or put in another kind of plant that is not susceptible to the infection.

Growing Michaelmas daisies in the garden is a real joy. These perennials provide fall color after the blooms of summer are already gone. Also known as New York aster, these pretty, small flowers are a great addition to any perennial bed and require only a little bit of care.

New York Aster Information

New York aster (Aster Novi-belgii), or Michaelmas daisy, is a variety of aster that is taller, which makes it a good choice for a bed’s backdrop. Many of the cultivars of New York aster are very tall, more than 2 feet (61 cm.) and as tall as 6 feet (2 m.). Colors are varied too, with hundreds of cultivars in white, pink, purple, red, blue, yellow, orange, and even those with double blooms. New York asters in gardens are prized, not just for their height and varied color, but also for the fact that they bloom in fall. They got the nickname Michaelmas daisy because these flowers tend to bloom at the end of September, the time of the feast of St. Michael. They are perfect for extending your garden’s color well past the summer months. Many cultivars will continue blooming for six weeks. These daisies are great for beds, but can also be used in natural, wildflower plantings, in containers, and can be grown for cut flowers.

How to Grow New York Asters

As a perennial native to the eastern U.S., Michaelmas daisy care is simple if you have the right climate and conditions. These flowers are hardy in USDA zones 4 through 8. They prefer full sun but will tolerate partial shade, and they need soil that is well drained. Michaelmas daisy is not aggressive or invasive, so you can count on it not taking over your beds, but rather growing in attractive clumps that flesh out where you plant them. You can propagate your existing plants by division. It is a good idea to divide every two years or so, just to keep the plants healthy. Not much care is needed for New York aster, but if you have some of the very tall cultivars, you may need to stake them as they grow. You can also pinch them through late summer to limit vertical growth, encourage more fullness, and to get more blooms in the fall. Once your flowers are done blooming in late fall, cut them down to the ground to prevent self-seeding. Growing Michaelmas daisies is relatively easy, and the reward is great: weeks of fall flowers in a variety of colors.

Asters brighten the garden with their bright, happy blooms. What can you do when there just aren’t any fireworks anymore? Read on to learn all about getting your asters back on track, and how to deal with an aster with no flowers.

Why Won’t My Asters Bloom?

A blooming aster is a welcome sight. No matter the season, the cheery, daisy-like flowers always seem to light up the garden. Although generally pretty hardy, asters can seriously disappoint when they refuse to bud or flower. If your aster plants don’t bloom, don’t worry, fixing an aster with no flowers isn’t that difficult once you find the reason behind it. Growing asters is usually a pretty simple undertaking until it isn’t. When asters hit problems, such as non-blooming, it can be tricky to know just what to do. Several common and easy-to-treat problems can be the reason for asters not flowering, including: Timing. If you asked a hundred people “when do asters flower,” you’d get a lot of different answers. This is because there are over 200 cultivars currently available in the garden trade. While you may be referring to a “Snow Flurry” aster, someone else may think you mean Alpine asters. Before you panic about your asters not blooming, check your variety’s specific bloom period. Maturity. Many perennial asters need time to really grow up before they’ll explode with brilliantly colored flowers. If your plant is reasonably young or was very small when you bought it, it might just need more time. When everything else seems right and your asters are still refusing to even set flower buds, maturity is often the problem. Give it another year and you’ll reap the benefits of your patience. Overfeeding. Although cultivated asters can look very delicate, the truth is that they haven’t come far from their wild roots. These plants are tough like weeds and, like weeds, don’t need a lot of fertilizer to really thrive. When your aster is adding a lot of foliage rapidly, even growing really tall in a relatively short span of time and skipping its flowers, this is a good sign that you’re overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizer. Decrease your feedings to just once or twice per season with a diluted fertilizer and watch your big, bushy asters burst into flower. Powdery mildew. Powdery mildew on asters is usually pretty obvious, as it’ll look like white or gray powder was spilled on leaves and flower buds. Rarely deadly when it comes to asters, powdery mildew can be very annoying since it has a reputation for causing buds to fail. Treating powdery mildew is a two-part process. First, you must increase the airflow around your plant, whether that means thinning the inside branches or removing plants that are crowding it. Improved circulation makes it hard for powdery mildew to really set in. Secondly, you can treat powdery mildew infections themselves with neem oil; just make sure to test a few days ahead of treatment and then apply it liberally. Keeping plant debris away from the asters will also help to prevent reinfection since spores can winter over this way.

Asters are tough, easy-to-grow flowers that come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. In short, they’re the ideal plant for your flower garden. That makes it especially hard when something goes wrong with them. Keep reading to learn more about common aster pests and other difficulties, and how to deal with these aster plant problems.

Recognizing Common Problems with Asters

As plants go, asters are relatively problem free. There are, however, several common aster pests and diseases that can become a problem if left untreated. Some aster plant diseases are more superficial than anything and will not affect the plants’ health or ability to bloom. These include rust and powdery mildew. They can be treated with fungicide. Some other more serious diseases are root rot, wilt, and foot rot, all of which can result in the death of the plant. Avoid rots by planting asters only in well-draining soil. Avoid wilt by planting only resistant varieties. Botrytis blight is another disease that will kill off blossoms. This can usually be prevented by careful watering – blight tends to form where the plants are wet.

Managing Common Aster Pests

Pests can pose serious problems with asters. Spider mites and lace bugs are often a problem, and while they won't kill the plants, they will give them an unhealthy appearance. Some other common aster pests are:

• Leaf miners
• Leafhoppers
• Soft scale
• Thrips
• Caterpillars

A good way to avoid insects is to keep the leaves of the asters dry, and to plant them with good spacing, also taking care to clear weeds and debris – bugs tend to thrive in moist, overgrown areas. If you have a heavy infestation, apply insecticide according to the directions on the bottle.

Other Aster Plant Problems

Apart from pests and disease, asters can also suffer from too much or too little water. They prefer well-draining soil and frequent watering and will start to wilt if their roots become waterlogged or dried out. Taller varieties of aster will sometimes fall over under their own weight and need to be staked.

What is Sky Blue aster? Also known as azure asters, Sky Blue asters are North American natives that produce brilliant azure-blue, daisy-like flowers from late summer until the first serious frost. Their beauty continues throughout much of the year, as the foliage of Sky-Blue asters turns reddish in autumn, and their seeds provide winter sustenance to a number of appreciative songbirds. Wondering about growing a Sky-Blue aster in your garden? Read on to learn the basics.

Sky-Blue Aster Information

Fortunately, growing a Sky-Blue aster doesn’t necessitate pronouncing the name (Symphyotrichum oolentangiense syn. Aster azureus), but you can thank botanist John L. Riddell, who first identified the plant in 1835. The name is derived from two Greek words – symphysis (junction) and trichos (hair). The rest of the rather unwieldy name pays homage to Ohio’s Olentangy River, where Riddell first found the plant in 1835. This sun-loving wildflower grows primarily in prairies and meadows. Like all wildflowers, the best way to get started when growing a Sky-Blue aster is to purchase seeds or bedding plants at a nursery specializing in native plants. If you don’t have a nursery in your area, there are several providers online. Don’t attempt to remove Sky-Blue asters from the wild. It’s rarely successful and most plants die once removed from their native habitat. More importantly, the plant is endangered in some areas.

How to Grow Sky-Blue Asters

Growing a Sky-Blue aster is suitable in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. Purchase starter plants or start seeds indoors in late winter or early spring. Blue asters are tough plants that tolerate partial shade, but bloom at their best in full sunlight. Be sure the soil drains well, as asters may rot in soggy soil. As with most aster plants, Sky-Blue aster care is uninvolved. Basically, just water well during the first growing season. Thereafter, Sky-Blue aster is relatively drought-tolerant but benefits from occasional irrigation, especially during dry weather. Powdery mildew can be a problem with Sky-Blue asters. Although the powdery stuff is unsightly, it rarely damages the plant. Unfortunately, there’s not much you can do about the problem, but planting where the plant gets good air circulation will help. A bit of mulch will protect the roots if you live in a chilly, northern climate. Apply in late autumn. Divide Sky-Blue aster in early spring every three or four years. Once established, Sky-Blue asters often self-seed. If this is a problem, deadhead regularly to limit their spread.

Asters are one of the last flowers in bloom for the summer season, with many blooming well into fall. They are prized primarily for their late-season beauty in a landscape that has begun to wither and dieback prior to winter, but there are other uses for aster plants. Keep reading to learn more about the edibility of aster flowers.

Can You Eat Asters?

Asters are gorgeous autumn perennials that can be found wild in North America and southern Europe. Also called starworts or frost flowers, the genus Aster includes about 600 species. The word ‘aster’ is derived from the Greek in reference to the multi-hued star-like blooms. The aster root has been used for centuries in Chinese medicine. How about eating the rest of the aster plant? Are asters edible? Yes, the leaves and flowers of asters are edible and are purported to have a number of health benefits.

Aster Plant Uses

The flowers and leaves can be eaten fresh or dried when eating aster plants. The Native American people harvested wild aster for a multitude of uses. The roots of the plant were used in soups and young leaves were cooked lightly and used as greens. The Iroquois people combined aster with bloodroot and other medicinal plants to make a laxative. The Ojibwa used an infusion of aster root topically to aid with headaches. Portions of the flower were also used to treat venereal diseases. Eating aster plants is no longer a common practice, but it does have its place among indigenous people. Today, while the edibility of aster flowers is not in question, they are more commonly used added to tea blends, eaten fresh in salads, or used as a garnish. Asters should be harvested in full bloom in the early morning after the dew has dried. Cut the stem about 4 inches (10 cm.) from above the soil level. Hang the stems upside down in a cool, dark area until the plant crumbles easily. The flowers will become white and fluffy but are still usable. Store the dried aster leaves and flowers in a sealed glass container out of sunlight. Use within one year. Disclaimer: The content of this article is for educational and gardening purposes only. Before using or ingesting ANY herb or plant for medicinal purposes or otherwise, please consult a physician or a medical herbalist for advice.

Autumn wouldn't be the same without the rich tones of aster plants. These fall perennial darlings grow vigorously into small, stout bushes decorated with many daisy-like flowers. Over time, asters can become leggy and flower production will minimize. This is normal but can be corrected by splitting aster plants. Dividing asters will help create a more dense plant with sturdier stems and a full crown of blooms. Read on to learn how to divide aster and what time of year it is appropriate to do so.

When to Divide Aster

Like many perennials, asters benefit from division. One of the things division does is stimulate new roots that will form new shoots. The new growth fills in areas that were becoming sparse, a common complaint in asters that have not been separated. You will need to be careful about when to divide asters, as doing so in the wrong season can affect flower production. Whether you have New England or New York varieties, asters have a long bloom period and lovely, lacy notched foliage. They brighten up fall, when most other blooming plants have ceased to flower. Asters are long lived in pots or in ground, but after two to three years, you may notice the centers dying out and the stems flopping. This means it is time to divide Aster. Separating asters is best done in early spring. The plant will just be leaving its winter dormancy and new shoots form but no buds will be evident yet. Dividing aster plants in spring will allow the new plants time to establish and even bloom before the end of summer without sacrificing flowers or any new growth.

How to Divide Asters

Perennial division is relatively straightforward. With asters, the root mass spreads so you will be planting the outer growth and discarding the old center roots. Dig around the root base of your aster and down under it carefully to remove the root ball. Use a sharp soil saw or edge of a shovel for splitting asters. It is important the implement be sharp to avoid damaging the roots as you cut the mass apart. Depending on the size of the plant, either divide into two pieces or three if the plant is established and has not been divided in a while. Take the edges of the root mass, not the center, which has pretty much done its work. Make sure each piece has plenty of healthy root and stems. Then it is time to plant.

What to Do After Separating Asters

Aster plants that have been divided develop into new bushes, which means the process actually gives you free plants. Once each piece has been inspected for disease or pest problems, it is time to plant. You may either pot up the divisions or put them into the ground. The soil should be well draining, preferably in an area with at least six hours of sun. Once the roots have been buried to the level at which they were previously growing, water well to settle the soil. Plants should grow just as the parent did, and will need to be fed in early spring with an organic product. It is a good idea to mulch around the new plants to protect them during winter and prevent competitive weed growth. Your new plants will usually bloom the first year, doubling or even tripling your original investment.

Asters are a gardener’s fall delight, blooming in August or September here in the U.S. These small, star-shaped flowers come in a variety of colors and are easy to grow perennials. To maximize the effect of your autumn garden, be sure you know the best plants to grow with asters as companions.

About Companions for Asters

There are several varieties of aster that you may have in your perennial beds: New England, aromatic, smooth, purple dome, New York, East Indies, calico, and others. All of these are characterized by fall blooms in colors ranging from white to purple to vibrant blue. They grow 2 to 3 feet (61-91 cm.) tall and produce daisy-like flowers. Asters are showy, but they look best with the right companion plants to highlight their colorful abundance of blooms. It’s important to consider growing conditions when choosing aster companion plants, as well as the height and spread of the asters; choose plants of the wrong size and they may get overshadowed by your asters.

Good Aster Plant Neighbors

For growing plants with asters, you can use trial and error, or you can rely on these options which have been proven by gardeners before you to be excellent companions: Bluestem goldenrod. This perennial flower may not be for you if you’re allergic to goldenrod, but if not, it makes a pretty contrast with pink, blue, and purple asters. Zinnia. Zinnia is related to asters and with the right choice of color it makes a great companion for them. ‘Profusion Orange’ zinnia is particularly pretty with lavender and blue asters. Black-eyed Susan. This pretty yellow flower blooms throughout the summer and should continue to bloom with your asters. Black-eyed Susan has a height that matches aster and together the two provide a good mix of colors. Ornamental grasses. A little greenery also makes for great aster companion plants. Ornamental grasses come in a wide variety of shades of green and yellow, heights, widths, and other characteristics. Choose one that won’t overgrow the asters, but that will blend with them and add more visual interest. Hardy mums. With the same late-blooming schedule and similar growing conditions, mums and asters are natural companions. Choose colors to complement each other and create variety. Growing plants with asters is a great way to ensure that your garden color carries on into the fall. Some other good choices for companions include:

• Sunflowers
• Flowering spurge
• Prairie cinquefoil
• Coneflower
• Big bluestem

Asters are classic flowers that typically bloom in late summer and fall. You can find potted aster plants at many garden stores but growing asters from seed is easy and less expensive. Plus, if you grow from seed, you can choose from endless varieties instead of just whatever is available at the garden center. So why not get some seeds and add fall color to your garden?

Aster Seed Growing

Asters are a group of perennial flowers that belong to the Asteraceae family, also called the daisy family. Many species and varieties, both wild and cultivated, are available to gardeners. This means you have a lot of options, including tall or short plants with flowers in many different shades of blue, purple, pink, or white. 

In North America, asters provide valuable food sources for butterflies, native bees, and other insects. They are a great choice for wildflower and butterfly gardens and for planting in meadow habitats. Most asters prefer cool, moist climates, especially at night. Many need a cool or cold winter to grow back the following year. For example, the New England aster is very cold hardy and grows best in zones 3 to 8.

When to Plant Aster Seeds

The best time for outdoor aster seed sowing is just after the last frost in your area. You can also start seeds indoors using a good seed starting mix four to six weeks before the last frost. Indoor aster seed care involves keeping the seeds at a temperature of 65 to 70 degrees F. (18-21 C.) and providing seedlings with ample light as soon as they emerge.

How to Grow Aster Flowers from Seed

First, choose an appropriate planting site. Asters will do best in full sun, but many varieties can also grow in partial shade. Well-drained soil is best. Prepare the planting site, especially if it’s a new garden bed, by mixing in compost, composted manure, or another source of organic matter and nutrients. 

If you’ll be planting outdoors, follow the seed spacing instructions for your variety. Many asters can be spaced 3 inches (8 cm.) apart, then thinned to 12 inches (31 cm.) apart after they emerge. Whether planting indoors or outdoors, cover the seeds with 1/8 inch (3 mm.) of fine soil. 

Aster seed sowing by scattering the seeds in a wildflower planting is also perfectly fine. Water the seeds after planting, then keep them evenly moist until seedlings emerge. This can happen between 7 and 21 days after sowing, depending on the aster variety.

Aster is a huge genus of plants that encompasses an estimated 180 species. Most asters are welcome in the garden, but some species are pests that spread aggressively in certain conditions. Read on for more information about troublesome aster plants in gardens.

Are Aster Plants Invasive?

Asters that spread aggressively include hoary aster (Dieteria canescens), a low-growing aster that has invaded certain areas in the western United States. While the plant isn’t on the federal invasive and noxious plant list, it is considered to be a problematic plant that easily becomes weedy in dry areas, including pine forests, chaparrals, and deserts. White wood aster (Eurybia divaricate, formerly Aster divaricatus) is a rambunctious plant that spreads by underground rhizomes. While this hardy plant makes an ideal groundcover and often causes no problems, it can become weedy in some circumstances. Plant this wild woodland aster where it has plenty of room to spread. Another wild aster by the name of annual saltmarsh aster (Symphyotrichum divaricatum) is one of the worst offenders – an obnoxious little plant that creates problems for homeowners across the United States. You can spot wild aster by its small, daisy-like flowers that pop up in unwanted areas, especially lawns.

How to Control Aster Plants

Hand-pulling is the most effective method of controlling aster. Pulling is easiest when the soil is moist. Manual control may not be practical if the plant has spread extensively. In this case, you may need to use a post-emergent herbicide created specifically for broad-leaved plants. When applied correctly, the herbicides will kill the weeds but leave the lawn unharmed. Again, check with your local cooperative extensive office if you’re not sure what product to use. Pre-emergent herbicides that prevent weeds from sprouting are another possible means of controlling aster in your lawn. Use extreme care and purchase a selective product that kills broadleaf weeds but not turfgrass. Some people have good luck with corn gluten, a pre-emergent, organic herbicide that works by inhibiting germination of wild aster, crabgrass, and other lawn invaders. It only works when seeds haven’t yet germinated. This product nets mixed results and may require repeat applications.

Should I Plant Aster?

Most asters are well-behaved, but if you’re concerned about planting an aster thug, check with your local cooperative extension office. They will be happy to tell you about plants that may become invasive in your area. Be careful about purchasing asters at big box stores, which sometimes stock plants that aren’t well suited for the local growing conditions. Instead, purchase plants at local nurseries and greenhouses.

Asters are fall-blooming plants with daisy-like flowers in shades ranging from blue to pink to white. You may have seen an aster variety you admire in a friend’s garden, or you may wish to multiply asters you already have to a new location in your garden. Fortunately, aster propagation is not difficult. If you’re looking for information on how and when to propagate asters, this article is for you.

How to Propagate Asters by Collecting Seeds

Many aster varieties will self-seed in the garden, and it’s also possible to collect the mature seeds and plant them in the desired location. The mature seed head looks like a light-brown or white puffball, something like a dandelion seedhead, and each seed has its own tiny “parachute” to catch the wind. Keep in mind that the seeds your asters produce may grow into plants with a different appearance from the parent. This happens when the parent plant is a hybrid or when the parent has been cross-pollinated by a nearby aster plant with different characteristics. Propagating asters by division or cuttings is a more reliable way to reproduce a plant with the same flower color, flower size, and height as the parent plant.

Propagating an Aster Plant by Division

Asters can be reliably propagated by division. Once a group of asters has grown into a clump large enough to divide, usually every three years or so, use a shovel to cut into the clump, dividing it into two or more parts. Dig up the cut parts and promptly plant them in their new location. After propagating an aster plant by division, feed your new plantings with a source of phosphorus, such as bone meal or rock phosphate, or with a low-nitrogen fertilizer.

How to Propagate Aster Plants by Cuttings

Some aster varieties, such as Frikart’s aster, can be propagated by taking softwood cuttings. Aster propagation by cuttings should be performed in the spring. Cut a 3 to 5 inch (8-13 cm.) section of stem and remove the lower leaves, keeping three or four of the upper leaves. Root the cutting in a medium such as sand or perlite and place a clear plastic bag over the cutting to help it retain moisture. Provide it with water and light until it forms roots. Then transplant it to a small pot.

Aster plant varieties offer variety of blooms, colors, and sizes. How many kinds of aster are there? There are two main types of asters, but many cultivars of the plant. All are hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 4 to 8.

How Many Kinds of Aster are There?

Most gardeners are familiar with asters. These workhorses in the autumn garden brighten the landscape even as most perennials are fading. There are many different types of aster from which to choose, most of which thrive in temperate to cool season climates. As native plants, they are adaptable to many sites, but do seem to prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Both the New England and New York asters are native to North America and thrive in a wide range of growing conditions. New England aster has full, plump blooms and thick, woody stems while New York aster has smooth leaves and thinner stems. Asters come in uncountable cultivars, but most are perennial. Among these are classifications such as heath, aromatic, smooth, calico, and wood. Sizes range from 1 to 6 feet in height (31 cm. to 2 m.), with New England varieties the tallest. Height, bloom color, and bloom time are all defining factors when choosing different types of aster. Most bloom late summer to early fall. New York asters are also known as Michaelmas daisy and bloom in fall while New England asters are known to bloom earlier in mid to late summer. New York asters come in cooler colors of blue, indigo, white, violet, and occasionally pink. New England forms will astound with hues of reds and rust along with the cooler tones. New York cultivars have darker green foliage while the other varieties come with slightly hairy medium green to almost a grayish green leaf. If you prefer asters for cut flowers there is a difference between the two main aster plant varieties. New York asters are pretty but last a shorter time than New England types. New England asters form larger, bushier plants than their counterpart. Blooms of New York asters may be amongst the foliage while New England plants have flowers above the leaves. Both are easy to grow, low maintenance, and noninvasive. They are also readily available as gift plants and common in nurseries.

Growing Varieties of Aster

Cultivars vary in their growing requirements with some being tolerant of dry soil locations. The wood aster, for instance, is a good choice for shade but most cultivars need full sun for best blooming. Asters respond very well to pinching, a practice which removes the tip growth in early spring and promotes denser, bushier plants with more flowers. It is fun to experiment with these lovely plants and try different varieties. Some of the forms available even have foliage with an agreeable scent, such as 'Raydon's Favorite,' a blue-purple bloomer with minty leaves. Others are valuable for their mildew resistance. Among these, 'Bluebird' is a very hardy variety to USDA zone 2 and is not prone to other foliage diseases. Still others will send out a new bloom in mild climates if spent flowers are removed. Most notable of these is 'Monte Casino.' For choices on flower color, here is a list that should help with your selections: New York

• Eventide – semi-double purple flowers
• Winston Churchill – bright red blooms
• Patricia Ballard – double pink flowers
• Crimson Brocade – double red flowers
• Bonningale White – double white blooms
• White Lady – large plant with white flowers with orange centers

New England

• Red star – dwarf with red flowers
• Treasurer – purplish blue blooms
• Lyle End Beauty – purple red blossoms
• Honeysong Pink – hot pink flowers with yellow centers
• Barr's Pink – semi-double rose-colored flowers
• Purple Dome – dwarf with purple blooms

Aster plant pruning is a must if you want to keep these perennial flowers healthy and blooming abundantly. Pruning is also useful if you have asters that grow too vigorously and are taking over your beds. To do it well you only need a few tips on perennial pruning.

Do Asters Need to Be Pruned?

Asters do not strictly need to be pruned, but there are some good reasons to do it. One is simply to maintain a shape and size that you like. Especially if you have rich soil, these flowers will grow abundantly. Pruning them back can prevent the need to stake them and give the plants more pleasing shapes. Thinning them out will also keep your plants healthy and reduce the risk of mildew developing. Finally, by pruning asters, you will get a greater abundance of flowers throughout the growing season.

How to Prune an Aster Plant

There are several ways to prune perennials, but asters respond best to two strategies: thinning and pinching. Thinning is the best strategy to prevent mildew if this is a concern in your beds. To thin your aster, cut off entire stems at the base in the spring. About one in three stems is a good general rule for cutting back asters. Pinching is the aster plant pruning strategy to use if your main goal is to maximize the number of flowers you get from one plant. As the name of the technique suggests, all you need to do this is your fingers. You will pinch off the growing tips and the first sets of leaves on stems of the plant. Pinch them off just above the node for the best results. Pinch asters from midspring to early summer. Pinching promotes the growth of more blooms because it encourages more branching in the aster plant. The new growth on the top of a stem is the dominant one, and by removing that you encourage the side branches to grow by diverting more nutrients to them. Careful pinching and thinning is easy with asters and great for promoting healthy plants and abundant blooms. Deadheading spent blooms throughout the growing season can also promote additional flowering.

It’s hard to beat asters when it comes to sheer beauty, and growing asters in containers is a cinch as long as you meet all the plant’s growing conditions. What better way to brighten up a deck or patio when most flowers are winding down for the season? Let’s explore how to grow asters in containers.

Aster Container Growing

Use a container with plenty of space for the roots to grow. However, avoid overly large containers, as a large amount of potting mix holds excess water that may result in root rot. It’s always better to repot when the plant outgrows its container. Be sure the container has at least one drainage hole in the bottom. Cover the hole with mesh or a paper coffee filter to prevent loss of potting mix through the hole. Fill the container with a lightweight commercial potting mix. Never use garden soil, which compacts and doesn’t allow free passage of water and nutrients. Water asters immediately after planting. Place the container where the asters are exposed to six to eight hours of full sunlight per day.

Aster Care for Containers

Check the container daily during warm weather and water as needed to keep the soil moist, but never soggy. Keep in mind that asters prefer soil a little on the dry side. A 1 to 2 inch (2.5 to 5 cm.) layer of mulch will help with moisture retention. Feed asters monthly throughout the growing season. Alternatively, mix a small amount of slow-release fertilizer into the potting mix at planting time. Remove spent blooms as soon as they wilt. Otherwise, the plant will go to seed and blooming will rapidly decrease. Watch for pests, such as spider mites and aphids. Both are easily controlled by using an insecticidal soap spray. However, never spray the plants on hot days, or when the sun is directly on the plant.

Looking for a burst of color for your fall garden? The New England aster plant (Aster novi-angliae) is an easy to care for perennial, blooming from August through October. Most North American gardeners can learn how to grow New England aster. Once established in the garden, New England aster care is extremely easy. Keep reading for more information on growing New England asters.

New England Aster Flowers

A wildflower member of the Asteraceae family and native to the eastern and central United States, New England aster flowers are generally found in meadows and other moist, well draining soils. The New England aster plant has medium green to gray-green foliage with an odor somewhat reminiscent of turpentine when crushed. Don't let the unpleasant aroma put you off, however. This plant provides stunning rose to lilac or deep purple blooms in mass plantings within native species gardens, low-lying areas, along roadsides, and around tree lines. The brilliant blooms make great cut flowers and are longer lasting in water than its cousin the New York aster (A. novi belgi). The floral display provides color long into the waning days of summer. Other varieties of New England aster flowers are available for the home garden as well and will provide additional color. These include:

• ‘Alma Potschke' produces 3 ½ foot (1 m.) tall plants with vibrant pink blooms.
• ‘Barr's Pink' blooms are rose colored, semi-double flowers on a 3 ½ foot (1 m.) tall plant.
• ‘Harrington's Pink' lights the garden with 4 foot (1 m.) tall pink blossoms.
• ‘Hella Lacy' is a 3 to 4 foot (1 m.) tall plant with dark purple blooms.
• ‘Honeysong Pink' has yellow centered pink flowers on 3 ½ foot (1 m.) tall plants.
• ‘September Beauty' blooms a deep red on 3 ½ foot (1 m.) tall plants.
• ‘September Ruby' flowers are rosy red atop 3 to 4 foot (1 m.) tall plants.

How to Grow New England Asters

Growing New England asters, as with other aster plants, is easy. This particular aster variety prefers full to partial sun in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 8. Propagate by seed or division when growing New England asters. Although a bit more difficult to grow from seed, it is well worth the effort. Surface sow in the spring in an area of rich, moist soil as these plants tend to wilt in poorly drained clay. The New England aster will germinate in 21 to 45 days at a soil temperature of 65 to 75 degrees F. (8-24 C.). These late summer through early fall bloomers spread 2 to 4 feet (0.6-1 m.) with a height of 1 to 6 feet (0.3-2 m.). When planting make sure to provide good air circulation, keeping in mind the large spreading area.

New England Aster Care

New England aster care is moderate. Just divide in fall, fertilize, and cut back in spring. These daisy like flowering plants should be divided every two to three years in late fall to promote vigorous specimens. The taller varieties, such as the 4 foot (1 m.) tall bluish purple ‘Treasurer' or the nearly 5 foot (1.5 m.) tall purple-red 'Lyle End Beauty,' usually require staking. Pinch plants early in the season to get a lower growing and bushier plant or choose a dwarf variety like ‘Red Star,' 1 to 1 ½ feet (31-46 cm.) with deep rosy flowers, or the aptly named ‘Purple Dome.' New England aster flowers may also self seed in optimal conditions. Be aware of this self-sowing when growing New England asters. To avoid self-seeding in the garden, cut back after blooming. This non-invasive beauty is fairly disease and insect resistant, however, it may be prone to powdery mildew. Keep soil moist as mentioned above and prepare to enjoy this hardy and bountiful perennial for years to come.

Aster Flower Info - Caring For Asters

Asters are a lovely addition to ornamental gardens. There are more than 600 varieties in the aster family, the most common in shades of purple that look like little daisies. What is unique about this pretty perennial is that it tends to bloom profusely as the days of summer begin to shorten, when other garden flowers have already seen their better days. Asters are a favorite of gardeners, as well as grateful pollinators. Though the needs of annual and perennial types of aster vary slightly, most aster species are considered quite easy to grow and they can thrive under a wide range of conditions.

Quick Facts

• Botanical name: Aster
• Height: 1-6 ft. (0.3-1.8 m.)
• Spread: 1-3 ft. (0.3-1.0 m.)
• Sun exposure: Full Sun, Part Shade
• Soil requirement: Neutral, Well-Draining
• Hardiness zone: USDA Zones 4-8
• When to plan: Spring, Fall

Aster Care

Like little daisies, asters fill in and brighten up any space in the garden and can grow as tall as 6 feet (1.8 m), so plan ahead when you decide to plant these beauties. Their colors range from purple to sky blue, pink, and white. While generally easy to grow, they do have a few requirements to thrive. Here are the conditions under which asters are happiest.

• Light Asters require full sun to perform their best. This means that the plants should receive at least 6-8 hours of direct light each day. Where growing conditions are especially warm, asters may enjoy brief periods of shade during the hottest parts of the afternoon. Conversely, asters that receive too much shade may become leggy or fail to produce many blooms.
• Water. New aster plantings need consistent moisture during their first growing season but, once they’re established they can tolerate fairly dry conditions. This makes them an ideal candidate for use in wildflower gardens, pollinator gardens and naturalized beds. Even after they’re established, though, they may still need occasional water in regions that are hot or have prolonged periods of drought.
• Temperature & Humidity vAster flowers can tolerate a wide range of temperatures. With ideal moisture and humidity levels, most species are able to withstand even the warmest of summer temperatures. Within their hardiness range, these plants are seldom damaged by cold, but they may benefit from some added protection throughout winter.
• Soil Asters are highly adaptable to a wide range of soil conditions, including sandy or clay-heavy soil. But be sure the soil they’re planted in drains well to avoid losing the plants to root rot. If your soil is dense with clay, be sure to amend your planting areas for new asters. They like rich, well-amended soil but many perennial species can thrive in less-than-ideal soils or soil with poor fertility.
• Fertilizer Feed your asters beginning in spring, before the plants have started to produce buds. Use a balanced, slow-release feed. You can continue to feed them through the summer until the plants begin to bloom.
• Problems, Pests & Diseases Monitor your aster plants for diseases like aster yellows, blight, wilt, and powdery mildew, which are the most common ones. Proper watering techniques, adequate spacing, and good overall garden sanitation will help prevent them. Water them from ground level rather than from above. Asters may also be frequented occasionally by troublesome insects, such as aphids, mites, Japanese beetles, and thrips.

Pruning

How and when to prune aster plants depends on the species. However, most types benefit from routine deadheading of spent blooms. Perennial types can be pinched or cut back in midsummer to promote more flowers in fall. When cooler temperatures arrive, most asters will begin to die back naturally. At this time, dead and decaying plant matter should be snipped back to the soil level in preparation for spring.

Propagation

Most open-pollinated varieties of aster can be easily started from seed. Specialty types and hybrids can also be propagated by cuttings or by division to ensure that new plants are identical to the parent. Take small stem cuttings in late spring and root them for planting in early summer. Established plants can be divided any time that the aster is dormant, preferably in early spring as new growth emerges.

Repotting

Asters grown in containers should be repotted every 2-3 years. Established plants that have been recently divided can also be potted into their own containers before being moved to the garden. For potted asters, use a high-quality potting mix that drains well. To grow their best, new pots should be at least twice the height and twice the width of the root ball of each plant.

Varieties

Look for some of these popular aster plant varieties:

• Coombe Fishacre Aster
• Harringtons Pink Aster
• Mrs. S.T. Wright Aster
• October Skies Aster
• Royal Ruby Aster