Banana peels have been featured in slapstick comedy as part of pratfalls and silly physical skits. But in reality, these discarded parts of our food are actually very nutritious and have uses far beyond sketch comedy. As food prices jump higher and higher, and we make conscious decisions to prevent waste, the benefits of banana skin in our diet may become not only necessary but desired.

Are Banana Peels Edible?

Before modern sanitation techniques, refuse was simply discarded in the street. This included the banana peel. In the early 1900s the item was the scourge of big cities across North America and Europe. People claimed to have fallen and injured themselves, racking up considerable lawsuits and payouts. Street vendors sold bananas with the claim the peel was a sanitary wrapping. The popular snack resulted in discarded peels across cities. Revamped sanitation efforts soon cleaned the streets, but the peels still remained a waste item. But what else do you do with a banana peel? Can you eat banana peels? In fact, the answer is yes.

Benefits of Eating Banana Skin

Bananas are a sweet, convenient snack. They are also high in potassium and other dietary needs. Among banana peel benefits is its high content of fiber. It also has plenty of Vitamin A, B-6, antioxidant properties, and even a bit of protein. Some studies have shown the levels of tryptophan in the peel can help relieve depression, since tryptophan will convert to serotonin, which improves mood. The antioxidant level is comparative to that of a cup of blueberries and can help minimize risk of cancer. Banana peels are best from fully ripened bananas. They are fibrous and should be cooked to make them more palatable, or used in smoothies.

How to Use Banana Peels

Banana Skins in the Garden

There are mixed opinions on the efficacy, but banana peel use in the garden is a time honored tradition. Many gardeners claim that using the peels around their roses enhances overall health and bloom. This is probably due to the presence of potassium, calcium, iron, copper, and manganese, all important plant nutrients. As banana skins decompose, they provide a gradual release of these necessary nutrients and minerals. This is much like using a time release granular fertilizer that won’t burn roots as it slowly releases nutrients. Mulching or side dressing with banana peels may also enhance tomato production. And of course, putting banana skin in compost is a classic use, as is piling it and letting it break down to make a nutrient rich mixture for plants.

Banana Peel Flour

Banana flour is not yet widely available, but it has been studied extensively. In Asian countries, wheat products are widely used in noodle products. These noodles are often derelict in certain dietary needs, something which the use of banana flour can enhance. The peels are soaked in citric acid, drained, and then dried. Finally the peels are ground finely and mixed at different ratios with wheat flour. This is used in pastas, noodles, and baked goods.

Commercial Banana Peel Uses

Around 40 percent of a banana's weight is its skin. That is a lot of material to fill the landfills. Banana peel extract and banana peel powder have been used in such applications as ethanol production, wastewater treatment, soap production, in wine making, and even as a steel corrosion inhibitor. As trials and studies continue, it is hopeful these discarded skins can contribute to other technological and commercial endeavors.

Edible Uses of Banana Skin

There are many ways to consume banana peels in the home. Banana skins should always be washed thoroughly before consumption to remove pesticides and other chemicals. The edible banana peel is made more palatable by scraping off the slightly bitter and stringy white interior. Once that is done, the peel may be tossed into the blender with the rest of the smoothie ingredients.

Banana skins can be caramelized in sugar and water and used as a syrup. They can be baked, boiled, grilled, and made into vinegar. Peels are also an interesting meat replacement. Prepared skins marinated in soy sauce, lemon juice, paprika, and garlic powder magically transform into bacon strips when cooked in a frying pan. Shredded peels can be used as a meat substitute in stir fries and stews. By challenging ourselves to new recipes and different applications for banana peels, we can enhance our diets and minimize our kitchen waste.

The Japanese banana plant lends that tropical island flair to gardens and landscapes as far north as USDA hardiness zone 5. Also known as the Musa Basjoo banana, these herbaceous perennials can withstand wintertime temperatures below -5 degrees (-20 F.) F and bounce back with new growth the following spring. If that sounds too good to be true, here's what you need to know about these hardy Japanese banana plants:

What are Japanese Hardy Banana Plants

This hardy banana variety is not actually a tree, as they are sometimes erroneously called. Like other members of the Musaceae family, the trunk-like pseudostem of the Japanese banana plant is made up of tightly rolled leaves and is not woody. 

The showy, green leaves unfurl from the center of the plant with each successive leaf emerging larger than the previous one. It's not uncommon for leaves of the Japanese banana plant to reach 6 feet (1.8 m.) in length. These fast-growing plants can attain a seasonal height of 10 to 12 feet (3-3.7 m.) before cold weather kills off aboveground growth.

In northern climates, Basjoo banana care basics must be followed to ensure the rhizomatous roots survive the winter. This includes removing the dead leaf canopy, cutting the pseudostem 1 to 2 feet (.6 m.) above the ground, and mulching around the base.

Due to the shorter growing season, this hardy banana variety rarely blooms north of zone 9. Grown primarily as an ornamental, the Japanese banana pairs well with other tropical plants. Use Musa Basjoo in patio and pool settings among hibiscus, plumeria, passion flowers or canna lilies. 

In USDA zones 9-10, the Basjoo Japanese banana plant remains an evergreen year-round. It takes Musa Basjoo banana plants 12 to 24 months to bloom and set fruit. Gardeners will most likely need to hand-pollinate the flowers in order to produce bananas. The golden-yellow fruit of this hardy banana variety are only 1 to 3 inches (2.5-7.6 cm.) long and contain numerous seeds. 

Musa Basjoo Banana Care

Choose a sunny location with rich, fertile soil for your Musa Basjoo banana plant. These heavy feeders thrive on monthly applications of fertilizer and a moist soil substrate. Before planting, work in plenty of organic compost to a depth of 8 to 12 inches (20-30 cm.). 

Banana plants develop an extensive root system to withstand hurricane force storms. To avoid foliage loss during windy weather, hardy Japanese banana leaves have adapted a cross-section method of tearing. This can leave the plant looking straggly. Locating banana plants in sheltered areas or pruning damaged foliage helps maintain their showy appearance.

Gardeners across the globe are constantly faced with growing challenges. Whether it be a lack of space or other resources, growers are frequently forced to create new inventive to produce crops. Plantings made in raised beds, containers, and other vessels are not a new concept. However, many of those living in tropical regions have taken this idea to a whole new level by growing in banana trunks. The use of banana trunk planters may just be the next gardening trend.

What is a Banana Trunk Planter?

In many tropical regions, the production of bananas is a major industry. After the bananas are harvested from the central trunk of the tree, that section of the tree is then cut down in order to promote growth for the next crop. As a result, banana harvesting produces a multitude of plant waste.

Inventive gardeners have started using these trunks as a sort of natural container garden.

Growing in Banana Trunks

It’s no secret that bananas are packed with nutrients and can work well for fertilizer, so why wouldn’t we take advantage of this key benefit. And once the vegetables are grown and harvested, the leftover banana trunks can easily be composted.

The process of growing in banana trunks is quite simple. In most cases, the trunks are laid horizontally on the ground or arranged on supports. That said, some people leave the trunks standing and simply create planting pockets so the crops grow vertically.

Holes are cut where the vegetables in banana stems will grow. These holes are then filled with a high quality potting mix or other readily available growing medium.

The preparation of banana tree stems for vegetables will vary depending upon the crop grown. The best candidates for planting in old banana trees are those with compact root systems, which can be planted closely together and mature relatively quickly. Think lettuce or other greens. Maybe even crops like onions or radishes. Feel free to experiment.

Not only does using banana tree stems for vegetables save space, but it also proves valuable for those living in regions where water becomes especially scarce throughout certain portions of the growing season. Natural conditions within the banana trunk planter allow for less irrigation. In some instances, no supplemental water will be required for a successful vegetable crop.

This, combined with the long-lasting durability of the banana trunks, makes for a unique gardening technique worthy of further research.

Banana trees are amazing plants to grow in the home landscape. Not only are they beautiful tropical specimens, but most of them bear edible banana tree fruit. If you have ever seen or grown banana plants, then you may have noticed banana trees dying after bearing fruit. Why do banana trees die after fruiting? Or do they really die after harvesting?

Do Banana Trees Die After Harvest?

The simple answer is yes. Banana trees do die after harvest. Banana plants take around nine months to grow up and produce banana tree fruit, and then once the bananas have been harvested, the plant dies. It sounds almost sad, but that isn’t the entire story.

Reasons for Banana Tree Dying After Bearing Fruit

Banana trees, actually perennial herbs, are comprised of a succulent, juicy “pseudostem” that is actually a cylinder of leaf sheaths which can grow up to 20-25 feet (6 to 7.5 m.) in height. They rise up from a rhizome or corm. Once the plant has fruited, it dies back. This is when suckers, or infant banana plants, begin to grow from around the base of the parent plant. 

The aforementioned corm has growing points that turn into new suckers. These suckers (pups) can be removed and transplanted to grow new banana trees and one or two can be left to grow in place of the parent plant. So, you see, although the parent tree dies back, it is replaced by baby bananas almost immediately. 

Because they are growing from the corm of the parent plant, they will be just like it in every respect. If your banana tree is dying after bearing fruit, don’t worry. In another nine months, the baby banana trees will be all grown up like the parent plant and ready to present you with another succulent bunch of bananas.

What is banana yucca? Also known as Datil yucca, soapweed, or blue yucca, banana yucca (Yucca baccata) is a type of yucca native to the Southwest United States and northern Mexico. Banana yucca is named for the fleshy, sweet-tasting, green to dark purple seedpods, which are about the size and shape of a banana. Interested in growing banana yucca in your garden? Read on to learn how to grow banana yucca.

Yucca Baccata Information

Like all types of yucca, banana yucca consists of mounded clumps of stiff, sword-shaped leaves. Tall, attractive spikes of creamy flowers appear in spring, although usually not every year. Plant experts think the plant sometimes needs to recuperate and rebuild a healthy store of carbohydrates before resuming blooming. In its natural environment, banana yucca often grows alongside sagebrush, pinyon juniper, or ponderosa pine. Although banana yucca is a desert plant, it is hardy and tolerates cold to -20 degrees F. (-29 C.). Be careful about growing banana yucca if you have young children. This is definitely not a people-friendly plant, as the leaf blades are sharp enough to slice through skin.

How to Grow Banana Yucca

Growing banana yucca couldn’t be much easier. Purchase a small plant from a nursery or garden center, or divide an offset from an established plant. You can also take cuttings; yucca leaves root easily. If you’re adventurous, you can plant yucca seeds indoors, but plant several seeds because germination, which generally takes about three to four weeks, is chancy. Plant your banana yucca in full sun or partial shade. Yucca prefers dry, poor, sandy soil, but will adapt to nearly any well-drained soil. However, this desert plant won’t tolerate soggy conditions.

Banana Yucca Care

Although banana yucca is very drought tolerant, it is more vigorous with regular irrigation. One watering per week during warm weather is usually plenty, so be careful not to overwater. Cut back on watering if the leaf tips turn brown. Remove old flower stalks before new growth emerges in early spring. Be sure to wear gloves and a long-sleeved shirt to protect your skin from the spiky stalks and razor-sharp leaf blades. Fertilize banana yucca every spring using any balanced, slow-released fertilizer. Watch for spider mites, which are common in dry, dusty environments. Spider mites are usually easy to manage with insecticidal soap spray.

Banana peels are rich in potassium and provide smaller amounts of manganese and phosphorus, all essential nutrients for gardens and houseplants. We would usually think of composting as the appropriate way to deliver these minerals to our plants. What about “feeding” banana peels directly to plants? In the case of at least one plant, the staghorn fern, adding whole banana peels is just as effective as composting them first. You can “feed” a whole peel or even a whole banana to the plant by placing it on top of the plant, among its fronds.

About Banana Peel and Staghorn Ferns

Feeding staghorn ferns with bananas is possible because of this plant’s unique lifestyle. Staghorn ferns are epiphytes, plants that grow on elevated surfaces away from contact with the soil. They produce two types of fronds: antler fronds, which stick out from the center of the fern, and basal fronds, which grow in overlapping layers and cling to the surface the plant is growing on. The upper portion of the basal fronds grows upward and often forms a cup shape that can collect water. In nature, staghorn ferns typically grow attached to tree limbs, trunks, and rocks. In this habitat, organic materials like leaf litter collect in the cup formed by the upturned basal fronds. Water washing down from the forest canopy both hydrates the fern and brings it nutrients. Organic materials falling into the cup break down and slowly release minerals for the plant to absorb.

How to Use Bananas to Feed a Staghorn Fern

Using banana fertilizer for staghorn ferns is an easy way to maintain your plant’s health while reducing kitchen waste. Depending on the size of your fern, feed it with up to four banana peels a month to provide potassium plus smaller amounts of phosphorus and micronutrients. A banana peel is almost like a time-release fertilizer for these nutrients. Place the banana peels in the upright portion of the basal fronds or between the fern and its mount. If you’re worried that the peel will attract fruit flies to an indoor fern, soak the peel in water for a few days, discard or compost the peel, then water the plant. Since banana peels don’t contain much nitrogen, banana-fed staghorns should also be provided with a source of nitrogen. Feed your ferns monthly during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer. If your bananas are not organic, it’s best to wash the peels before you give them to your staghorn fern. Conventional bananas are typically treated with fungicides to control a damaging fungal disease. Since the peels are not considered edible, fungicides that are not permitted on edible parts may be allowed on peels.

There are many types of banana plants available to the home gardener, many of which produce copious amounts of fruit. Did you know there are also various types of the ornamental red banana plant too, specifically grown for their attractive red foliage color? Read on to learn more about these interesting plants.

What is a Red Banana Tree?

Ornamental red banana trees can belong to either the Ensete or Musa genera.

Ensete, also known as enset, is an important food crop in Ethiopia, and an ornamental plant enjoyed in landscapes around the world. Though the bananas they produce are not edible, Ensete plants do produce food in the form of a starchy corm (underground storage organ) and a starchy stem base. Enset farmers in Ethiopia dig up the corms and lower stems of mature trees and process them into bread or porridge.

Like the more familiar banana plants in the Musa genus, this red and green leaved banana species is the size of a tree but is actually a giant herbaceous plant. Its trunk is a non-woody “pseudostem” made of leaf stalks (petioles) that grow tightly bundled together. In Ethiopia, fibers harvested from the pseudostem are traditionally used for making mats and ropes.

Ensete ventricosum is one of several ornamental banana plants available to gardeners in zones 9 to 11. A favored variety with strong red coloration is “Maurelii,” which grows 12 to 15 feet (4-5 m.) tall and 8 to 10 feet (2-3 m.) wide. This ornamental red banana plant makes a lovely centerpiece for a tropical garden or courtyard. You may also find this ornamental plant labeled as Red Abyssinian banana (Ensete maurelii), which has the same striking foliage flushed with burgundy red.

Other red leaved ornamental bananas include Musa acuminata “Zebrina,” “Rojo,” and “Siam Ruby.” These may be better choices for very humid locations such as many parts of Florida.

Growing ornamental bananas in large pots is also possible. In cooler climates, pots can be brought outdoors in summer and indoors in winter but be sure you have enough space for the plant before beginning this endeavor.

How to Grow a Red Banana

Ensete grows best in a relatively dry climate similar to its native habitat in the east African highlands. It cannot tolerate frost and dislikes high humidity. However, some gardeners have successfully grown it even in humid areas.

Enset trees also grow more slowly than Musa banana trees and have lifespans ranging from three to ten or more years. With patience, you may be able to see your tree flower. Each plant flowers only once, at full maturity, and then dies.

Red banana plant care involves proper site selection, watering, and fertilization. These trees require rich soil with plenty of organic matter and partial or full sun. Be sure the soil at the planting site is well drained.

Water the plant weekly, more often during the hottest part of summer. This is especially important in the first season after planting. Well-established plants can survive drought, but they won’t look their best without adequate water. Fertilize in the early spring with compost or a balanced fertilizer.

In Thailand, bananas are everywhere and synonymous with the tropical region they thrive in. If you’re yearning to introduce a more tropical look to your landscape, try growing Thai bananas. What are Thai bananas? Read on to find out how to grow Thai banana trees and Thai banana care.

What are Thai Bananas?

Thai banana fruit comes from Musa black banana plants. These hardy banana trees grow to about 20 feet (6 m.) in height. The plant starts out green but after a few months, the trunk and petioles turn a dark brown to black in color. They can be grown in USDA zones 7 through 11 and make a great house or patio plant grown in containers. This variety is not only cold hardy, but disease and wind resistant too. Banana development is nothing short of amazing. This tropical herbaceous plant grows from an underground corm and consists of a pseudostem (trunk) made up of layers of leaf sheaths. The banana flowers appear in groups called “hands” along the stem of the plant. They are covered by purplish bracts that roll back and drop off as the fruit stem develops. The first hands to appear are female flowers that develop into Thai banana fruit, small and similar to plantains but sweeter.

How to Grow Thai Banana Trees

Plant Thai banana plants in well-draining, moist, richly organic soil. Grow Thai bananas in 12 hours or more of bright light. That said, new plants may be susceptible to leaf burn, so gradually acclimate the plant to more and more sunlight over the course of a week or two prior to planting to avoid stress to the banana. Night temperatures should be around 67 degrees F. (19 C.) and during the day temps should be in the 80’s (27-29 C.). In cooler climates, bring the plants inside during the winter. Remove the leaves and store just the rhizome un-watered in a heated area to overwinter. Or dig small suckers from the parent plant and pot them for overwintering indoors. Thai bananas can be grown in USDA zone 9 to 11. If growing Thai bananas in a stand outdoors, space the plants about 4 inches (10 cm.) apart. Within a few weeks the large leaves will make you feel like you were in the tropics and provide welcome shade during the warmer months. If you wish to grow your banana in a container, remember that the looser the roots, the taller and healthier the plant. Start with a container that is at least a foot deep (31 cm.) and 18 to 24 inches (46-61 cm.) across. Plants grown on a patio do best in zones 4b to 11 and thrive through the summer but then must be brought indoors prior to frost and overwintered.

Thai Banana Care

Bananas are heavy feeders and should be fed a high nitrogen organic fertilizer. Fertilize sparingly at least 6 inches away (15 cm.) from the base of the plant, three times per year with a slow release 15-5-10 fertilizer. Don’t overwater a banana plant. Root rot from cold, wet soil will easily kill off your plant. Once the plant has fruited, cut the parent plant off at or near ground level. Once it has produced, it will no longer flower or fruit and the psuedostem will rot into the soil or can be removed, cut up, and added to the compost pile.

Yearning to replicate the tropical setting found on your last visit to Hawaii but you live in USDA zone 8, a less than tropical region. Palm trees and banana plants aren’t exactly the first thing that pops into a zone 8 gardener’s mind when choosing plants. Is it possible though; can you grow bananas in zone 8?

Can You Grow Bananas in Zone 8?

Amazingly enough, there are actually cold hardy banana trees! The most cold hardy banana is called the Japanese Fiber banana (Musa basjoo) and is said to be able to tolerate temperatures down to 18 degrees F. (-8 C.), a perfect banana tree for zone 8.

Information on Banana Trees for Zone 8

As mentioned, the most cold hardy banana tree is Musa basjoo, the largest of the bananas which may attain heights of up to 20 feet (6 m.). Bananas need 10 to 12 months of frost-free conditions to flower and set fruit, so most folks in cooler regions will likely never see fruit, and if you do get fruit, it is almost inedible due to the numerous seeds. In milder areas, this banana may flower in its fifth year with female flowers appearing first followed by male blooms. If this occurs and you want your plant to produce fruit, the best bet is to hand pollinate. Another zone 8 banana tree option is Musa velutina, also called the pink banana, which is on the smaller side but nearly as hardy as Musa basjoo. Since it flowers earlier in the season, it is more likely to produce fruit, although, again, the fruit has copious seeds that make eating it less than pleasurable.

Growing a Banana Tree in Zone 8

Bananas should be planted in full sun to light shade in moist, well-draining soil. Locate the plant in an area protected from wind so the large leaves don’t become tattered. Bananas are heavy feeders and require regular fertilization during the growing season. If you choose Musa basjoo, it can overwinter outdoors provided it has been heavily mulched, so the same will be true when growing this banana tree in zone 8. If you are hesitant, bananas can be grown in containers and brought indoors or over winter the plant by digging it up. Once it is dug up, wrap the root ball in a plastic bag and store it in a cool, dark area until the spring. In the spring, cut the plant back to 3 inches (8 cm.) above the soil and then either pot it again or plant it in the garden once the soil warms up.

Native to tropical Asia, the banana plant (Musa paradisiaca) is the largest herbaceous perennial plant in the world and is grown for its popular fruit. These tropical members of the family Musaceae are prone to a number of diseases, many of which result in black spots on banana fruit. What causes black spot disease in bananas and are there any methods for treating black spots on banana fruit? Read on to learn more.

Normal Black Spots on a Banana

Black spot disease in bananas is not to be confused with black spots on the fruit of a banana tree. Blackish/brown spots are common on the exterior of the banana fruit. These spots are commonly referred to as bruises. These bruises mean that the fruit is ripe and that the acid within has been converted to sugar. In other words, the banana is at the peak of its sweetness. It’s just a preference for most people. Some people like their bananas with a little tang when the fruit is just turning from green to yellow and others prefer the sweetness that arises from black spots on banana fruit peels.

Black Spot Disease in Bananas

Now if you are growing your own bananas and see dark spots on the plant itself, it is likely that your banana plant has a fungal disease. Black Sigatoka is one such fungal disease (Mycosphaerella fijiensis) that thrives in tropical climates. This is a leaf spot disease that does indeed result in dark spots on the foliage. These dark spots eventually enlarge and encompass an entire affected leaf. The leaf turns brown or yellow. This leaf spot disease reduces the production of fruit. Remove any infected leaves and prune the plant’s foliage to allow for better air circulation and apply fungicide regularly. Anthracnose causes brown spots on the fruit’s peel, presenting as large brownish/black areas and black lesions on green fruit. As a fungus (Colletotrichum musae), Anthracnose is promoted by wet conditions and is spread via rainfall. For commercial plantations afflicted with this fungal disease, wash and dip fruit in fungicide prior to shipping.

Other Diseases of Bananas Causing Black Spots

Panama disease is another fungal disease caused by Fusarium oxysporum, a fungal pathogen that enters the banana tree through the xylem. It then spreads throughout the vascular system affecting the entire plant. The spreading spores cling to vessel walls, blocking water flow, which in turn causes the plant’s leaves to wilt and die. This disease is serious and can kill an entire plant. Its fungal pathogens can survive in the soil for close to 20 years and are extremely difficult to control. Panama disease is so serious that it almost wiped out the commercial banana industry. At the time, 50-plus years ago, the most common banana cultivated was called Gros Michel, but Fusarium wilt, or Panama disease, changed all that. The disease began in Central America and rapidly spread to most of the world’s commercial plantations which had to be burned down. Today, a different variety, the Cavendish, is again threatened with destruction due to the resurgence of a similar fusarium called Tropical Race 4. Treating black spot of banana can be difficult. Often, once a banana plant has a disease, it can be very difficult to halt its progression. Keeping the plant pruned so it has excellent air circulation, being vigilant about pests, such as aphids, and the routine application of fungicides should all be instituted to combat diseases of banana causing black spots.

Banana trees are often used in landscapes due to their large, attractive foliage but more often, they are cultivated for their delicious fruit. If you have bananas in your garden, you’re likely growing them for both their ornamental and edible purposes. It takes some work to grow bananas and, even so, they are susceptible to their share of diseases and other banana tree problems. One such issue is bananas with cracked skin. Why do bananas split on the bunch? Read on to find out about banana fruit cracking.

Help, My Bananas are Cracking Open!

No need to panic about banana fruit cracking. Among all the possible banana tree problems, this one is minimal. Why do bananas split on the bunch? The reason the fruit is cracking is likely due to high relative humidity of over 90% combined with temperatures over 70 F. (21 C.). This is especially true if bananas are left on the plant until ripe. Bananas need to be cut off the plant when still green to promote ripening. If they are left on the plant, you’ll end up with bananas with cracked skin. Not only that, but the fruit changes consistency, dries and becomes cottony. Harvest bananas when they are very firm and very dark green. As the bananas ripen, the skin becomes a lighter green to yellow. During this time, the starch in the fruit is converted to sugar. They are ready to eat when they are partially green, although most people wait until they are yellow or even mottled with brown spots. Actually, bananas that are quite brown on the outside are at the peak of sweetness, but most people either toss them or use them to cook with at this point. So if your bananas are on the tree and cracking open, they have likely been left on too long and are overripe. If you have gotten your bananas at the supermarket, the reason for splitting is probably due to how they were processed as they were being held and ripened. Bananas are usually kept at about 68 F. (20 C.) when ripening, but if they were exposed to higher temperatures, the fruit would ripen faster, weakening the skin and causing splitting of the peel.

Growing Banana Trees

The popularity of banana plants is growing, even in regions where they don't naturally grow.

Beautiful banana trees often come to mind when one is dreaming of the tropics. However, did you know that they are not really fruit trees? They are actually the world's largest herbs. Due to their size and appearance they have become commonly known and thought of as banana "trees."

The banana is in the same order of plants as the Strelitzia, Ravenala and Canna genera. The scientific name for the banana genus is Musa. This article provides an overview of the basics of caring for banana plants. Of course, the care required for different species may vary slightly.

Anatomy

First let us get familiar with the morphology of this plant. Banana plants have a pseudostem, and new leaves are pushed up from the middle of this. These new leaves are rolled up, and they will unroll when the whole leaf has emerged.

Most of the older leaves on a banana plant are torn because the leaves are very thin, and even the wind can blow holes in them.

Banana plants have rhizomes, and from these many new shoots appear. You can cut these off the "mother plant" and pot them.

A frequently asked question is "Will there be real bananas on this tree?" After three or four years a banana tree will flower and produce bananas that you can eat The biggest challenge with this plant when not growing it in the tropics, is how to protect it in winter.

Maintenance

Heat

Warmth is necessary for optimal growth. There are also banana plants available that will grow in the cold, but below five degrees they will stop growing. Below minus two degrees the leaves will die but the roots will still be alive.

Popular species for cold climates:

Musa basjoo: can survive until -20 C

Musa sikkimensis: can survive until -15 C

Musella lasiocarpa: can survive until -5 C

Light

A warm environment is not all that is required. Banana plants also need a lot of light. If you have a banana indoors you need to make sure that it is near the window, but avoid direct sunlight because this will burn the leaves.

Water

Of course after heat and light you need to consider water - banana plants need lots of water. On hot summer days they can require up to 10 liters of water. But be careful that the roots aren't sitting in water, because these plants are infamous for developing root rot. During the colder season, less water is necessary.

Fertilizer

Banana plants can grow very fast, especially if you fertilize them correctly. It's almost impossible to give too much fertilizer to a banana, but of course in the cold months the fertilizer must be minimized to discourage growth.

Pruning

You don't need to prune bananas but for aesthetic reasons you can remove the old leaves. You can also remove the plantlet If your banana has frost damage, you can cut off the damaged part of the trunk and most of the time it will grow again. When you cut away the damage you must remove a large part of the trunk to encourage regrowth.

Diseases

Basically, banana plants are not very susceptible to pests or diseases. Most problems will arise in the winter time.

The most common issues are spider mites, aphids or root rot from soil that is too wet. For the first two issues you should use the most appropriate treatment as soon as possible.

Rotting can only be prevented by ensuring a dry root ball. It is best to cut away any rotten parts before allowing the root ball to dry out.

Interesting Facts

• Bananas can be found in colors other than yellow, including red.
• Most species of banana plant originated in Southeast Asia.
• A row of bananas is sometimes called a 'hand', while a single banana is called a 'finger'.
• Banana fruit consists of around 75% water.
• The Gros Michel banana was a popular variety before crops were destroyed by Panama disease in the 1950's. Panama disease attacks the roots of banana plants.
• The most popular type of banana sold in stores these days is the Cavendish banana. It is resistant to the strain of Panama disease that effectively wiped out the Gros Michel banana but there are concerns that it too may eventually suffer a similar fate.
• Lady Finger bananas are small, sweet and have relatively thin skins.
• Wild bananas grow large, hard seeds.
• India is the leading producer of bananas.

Fusarium wilt is a common fungal disease that attacks many types of herbaceous plants, including banana trees. Also known as Panama disease, fusarium wilt of banana is difficult to control and severe infections are often deadly. The disease has decimated crops and has threatened an estimated 80 percent of the world’s banana crop. Read on to learn more about banana fusarium wilt disease, including management and control.

Banana Fusarium Wilt Symptoms

Fusarium is a soil-borne fungus that enters the banana plant through the roots. As the disease progresses upward through the plant, it clogs the vessels and blocks the flow of water and nutrients. The first visible banana fusarium wilt symptoms are stunted growth, leaf distortion, and yellowing, and wilt along the edges of mature, lower leaves. The leaves gradually collapse and droop from the plant, eventually drying up completely.

Managing Fusarium Wilt in Bananas

Fusarium wilt control in bananas depends largely on cultural methods to prevent spread, as effective chemical and biological treatments aren’t yet available. However, fungicides may provide some help in the early stages. Managing fusarium wilt in bananas is difficult, as the pathogens can also be transmitted on shoes, tools, vehicles tires, and in run-off water. Clean up growing areas thoroughly at the end of the season and remove all debris; otherwise, the pathogen will overwinter in leaves and other plant matter. The most important means of control is to replace diseased plants with non-resistant cultivars. However, the pathogens can live in the soil for decades, even after banana plants are long gone, so it’s critical to plant in a fresh, disease-free location. Ask your local University Cooperative Extension Service or agronomy expert about fusarium-resistant cultivars for your area.

Banana trees (Musa spp.) are the largest herbaceous perennial plants in the world. Cultivated for their fruit, banana plantations are meticulously managed, and the trees can produce for up to 25 years. Any number of banana pests and diseases can derail a successful plantation, however, not to mention environmental banana plant problems such as cool weather and high winds. Any of the problems affecting bananas may afflict the home gardener as well, so it’s important to learn to identify banana pests and diseases so you can nip them in the bud. Read on to learn more.

Banana Tree Insects

There are quite a number of banana tree insects that can cause minor damage to a single plant or wreak havoc through an entire plantation. Some of these banana pests act as vectors of disease as well. Control of pests on bananas requires early identification. Banana aphids Banana aphids are an example of a pest that acts as a vector of disease. These pests are soft-bodied, wingless, and almost black. An infestation of these aphids causes curled, shriveled foliage. The pest may also transmit banana bunchy top disease to the plant, resulting in chlorotic leaf margins, brittle leaves, and, as the name suggests, a bunchy top. The aphid population is often tended to by ants, so control of the disease involves treating for ants. Insecticides, soapy water, and horticultural oil can help mitigate the population of aphids, but if the plant already has bunchy disease, it is best to destroy the plant. There are no chemical controls to protect against the transmission of banana bunchy top, so the only control method is to prevent the transmission by ridding the plant of the aphids. That or plant less susceptible cultivars. Aphids can also transmit banana mosaic disease. This disease also presents with chlorotic mottling or stripes on foliage. Fruit will be distorted, sometimes with chlorotic streaking as well. If the banana becomes afflicted with banana mosaic, it is best to destroy it. Plant virus free material next time, control aphids, and remove susceptible host plants including weeds from around the tree. Banana weevils Banana weevils are nocturnal pests that slow plant growth and reduce fruit yields. They tunnel through the corms, which can cause plants to wilt and topple over. Eventual destruction and plant death follows. Treat the plant with neem powder to reduce their population and apply insecticide at the time of planting to control weevils. Coconut scale Coconut scale isn’t just a banana plant problem. They attack many hosts, including coconuts. Scales will be found on the underside of leaves as well as other areas of the banana tree and cause tissue discoloration and yellowing of foliage. Biological control, such as the introduction of ladybugs, is the most effective control method. Thrips Several different types of thrips are known to infest banana trees and can be controlled using insecticides, soapy water, and oil. Nematodes Nematodes are a major problem amongst banana growers. There are many different types of nematodes, but they all love to feed on banana plants. Nematicides, when properly applied, can protect a crop. Otherwise, the land must be left fallow for up to three years.

Banana Plant Diseases

Sometimes, banana plant diseases are transmitted via insect pests but not in every case. Banana bacterial wilt may be transmitted by insects, but also by farm equipment, other animals, and on infected rhizomes. The first signs of infection are yellow leaves that later brown and die. If infection occurs late in fruit production, the buds dry and blacken. Fruit ripens early and unevenly, and infected fruit is rusty brown. Sanitize garden equipment to prevent spread and remove excess male buds. Infected plants should be destroyed and replaced with disease free specimens. Black leaf streak, or black sigatoka, is a fungal disease that is fostered by high humidity. Spores are spread by the wind. The first signs are red/brown spots on the underside of leaves and dark or yellow bordered spots with a gray center. Leaf surfaces eventually die, and fruit bunches do not develop properly. Plantations use fungicide application to control black sigatoka, increase the space between trees to improve circulation, and remove leaves that show any signs of infection. Cigar end rot is a fungal disease caused by either Verticillium fungi or Trachysphaera. In the foremost case, the tips of the banana (fingers) wrinkle and darken and begin to rot. In the latter case, the rotted areas become covered with white spores, which makes the fingers look like the ash end of a smoked cigar. Commercial growers remove infected flowers, bag banana bunches with perforated polyethylene and, if necessary, utilize chemical control. Moko disease is caused by a bacterium, Ralstonia solanacearum, and results in chlorotic, wilted leaves with the eventual collapse of the entire canopy and pseudostem. It can be spread by insects or human interactions. If Moko is suspected, remove male buds, sterilize garden tools, and destroy any infected plants as well as any neighboring plants. Panama disease, or fusarium wilt, is another fungal disease that infects roots that, in turn, blocks the ability of the plant to uptake nutrients and water. Foliage is also affected and shows as yellowing of older leaves, leaf sheath splitting, wilting, and eventual canopy death. This is an extremely deadly disease that spread through the soil, irrigation water, and infected rhizomes and is a global threat to banana production. There is no effective treatment once the trees have become infected; thus, they should be removed and destroyed. These are just a few of the pest and disease problems potentially affecting bananas. Be vigilant and monitor the bananas for signs of infestation or infection. Select disease free plants, sanitize equipment, and allow room between planting to reduce humidity and allow for better air circulation to reduce the chance of pest or disease on banana trees.

Bananas used to be the sole province of commercial growers, but today’s different varieties allow the home gardener to grow them as well. Bananas are heavy feeders in order to produce sweet fruit, so feeding banana plants is of primary importance, but the question is what to feed banana plants? What are banana fertilizer requirements and how do you fertilize a banana tree plant? Let’s learn more.

What to Feed Banana Plants

Like many other plants, banana fertilizer requirements include nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. 

You may choose to use a balanced fertilizer on a regular basis that contains all of the micro and secondary nutrients the plant needs or divide feedings according to the plant’s growing needs. For example, apply high-nitrogen rich fertilizer once a month during the growing season and then cut back when the plant flowers. 

At this point, switch to a high phosphorus or high potassium food. Fertilizing a banana plant with additional nutrients is fairly rare. If you suspect any type of deficiency, take a soil sample and get it analyzed, then feed as necessary per results.

How to Fertilize a Banana Tree Plant

As mentioned, banana trees are heavy feeders so they need to be regularly fertilized to be productive. There are a couple of ways to feed the plant. 

When fertilizing a mature banana plant, use 1 ½ pounds (680 g.) of 8-10-10 per month; for dwarf indoor plants, use half that amount. Dig this amount in around the plant and allow it to dissolve each time the plant is watered. Or you can give the banana a lighter application of fertilizer each time it is watered. Mix the fertilizer with the water and apply as you irrigate. 

How often should you water/fertilize? When the soil dries out to about ½ inch (1 cm.), water and fertilize again. If you are choosing to use high nitrogen and high potassium fertilizers, the method is a bit different.

Add the high nitrogen food to the soil once a month during the growing season at full dose according to the manufacturer’s directions.

When the plant begins to flower, cut back on the high-nitrogen fertilizer and switch to one that is high in potassium. Stop fertilizing if the soil has a pH of 6.0 or under or when the plant begins to fruit.

Banana mint plants (Mentha arvensis 'Banana') are a variety of mint with bright, fuzzy, lime green foliage and a pronounced, very delightful aroma of banana. Like all mint plants, growing banana mint is easy. Read on for all the banana mint information you need to get started with this fun and rather quirky plant.

Banana Mint Information

Although these plants are grown primarily for their foliage, the small purple flowers, which bloom throughout the summer, are highly attractive to bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects. The mature height of the plant is about 18 inches (46 cm.). Banana mint plants are perennial and suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 11.

Growing Banana Mint

Banana mint grows in partial shade or full sunlight and in nearly any type of well-drained soil. However, keep in mind that although banana mint may not be quite as rowdy as many of its mint cousins, it can still become quite aggressive. If you’re concerned that the plants may be bullies in your garden, plant them in containers to keep growth in check. Planting seeds isn’t recommended for banana mint and may not produce the results you’re hoping for. However, it’s easy to start mint cuttings or divisions from an existing plant, or by planting young banana mint plants purchased at a nursery or greenhouse. You can even root banana mint cuttings in a glass of water.

Banana Mint Care

Banana mint requires little care. The most important thing is to keep the soil moist, but not saturated. Banana mint plants don’t tolerate dry soil. Harvest banana mint regularly to keep the plant full and attractive. If the plant ever begins to look long and leggy in midsummer, feel free to cut it back by about one-third of its height. It will rebound quickly. Cut the plants nearly to the ground in fall. If you live in the cooler ranges of the acceptable climate zones, a layer of mulch will protect the roots during the winter.

Uses for Banana Mint

Fresh banana mint leaves add flavor to hot and cold tea, adult beverages, ice cream, and baked goods such as muffins and cookies. The leaves are also easy to dry for use in the off-season.

Banana trees are a staple of many hot weather landscapes. While they’re very decorative and are often grown for their tropical leaves and bright flowers, most varieties also produce fruit. Keep reading to learn more about how to get banana trees to produce fruit.

Banana Tree Fruit

Can a banana plant grow fruit? Of course, it can – they’re called bananas! That being said, not all banana plants produce fruit that you can eat. Some varieties like the red banana, the dwarf banana, and the pink velvet banana are grown for their flowers. They do make fruit, but it’s not edible. When you’re choosing a banana plant, make sure to pick one that’s bred to make tasty fruit. Bananas should flower in spring to early summer, and banana tree fruit should set in early summer. The fruit grows in clusters, called hands, along a single stalk. A stalk full of hands is called a bunch. It takes between 3 and 6 months for the banana tree fruit to mature. You’ll know the bananas are mature when they take on a fuller, rounder appearance. Don’t let them turn yellow on the plant, as they’re likely to split open and spoil. When most of the fruits in the bunch are mature, cut the whole stalk off and hang it in a dark place to allow the fruits to ripen. Banana tree fruit will be ruined by below-freezing temperatures. If frost is in your forecast, cut the stalk and bring it inside whether it’s mature or not. The fruits, though small, should still ripen. Once you’ve harvested your fruit, you should cut down the stem it grew on. Each stem will produce only one bunch of bananas, and cutting it down makes room for new stems to come up.

How to Get Banana Trees to Produce Fruit

Maybe there’s no fruit on a banana plant in your garden. What gives? The problem could be one of a number of things. Getting banana trees to fruit takes certain conditions. If your soil is poor, your tree may grow fine but not produce fruit. Your soil should be rich, non-saline, and have a pH between 5.5 and 7.0. Getting banana plants to fruit also requires continuous warmth. A banana plant can survive down to freezing, but it won't grow or set fruit below 50 F. (10 C.). The ideal temperature for banana fruit set is in the mid 80’s. Be very careful about pruning your banana plants. The stalks that produce the fruit grow up slowly inside the stems. Cutting back a stem in the fall may mean no banana fruit the following summer. Only cut stems that have already fruited.

Like most fruit trees, a banana plant sends out suckers. With grafted fruit trees, it is recommended that you prune and discard the suckers, but banana plant suckers (called “pups”) can be split from the parent plant and grown as new plants. Continue reading to learn how to divide a banana tree.

Banana Plant Splitting

In time, whether your banana plant is container grown or grown in ground, it will send out banana plant pups. Container grown banana plants may sprout suckers as a sign of stress -- from being pot bound, under watered or unhappy for some other reason. Sending out suckers is their way of trying to survive conditions that they are struggling in. The new pups will grow new roots that can suck up more water and nutrients for the parent plant. New pups can also begin to grow to replace a dying parent plant. Oftentimes though, a perfectly healthy banana plant will produce pups just because reproducing is a part of nature. When your banana plant sends out suckers, it is a good idea to examine the parent plant for signs of stress, disease or insects. You should also examine the roots of container grown banana plants to see if they are pot bound.

How to Divide a Banana Tree

After examination of the parent plant and root structure, you may choose to divide banana plant pups from the parent plant. Separating banana plants will give both the new pups and the parent plant a better chance at survival, as the new pups can take away water and nutrients from the parent plant causing it to die back. Dividing banana plants should be done only when the pup being divided has grown to at least a foot (30.48 cm.) tall. By that point, the pup should have developed its own roots so that it is not depending solely on the parent plant for survival. Pups that are removed from the parent plant before they develop their own roots are not likely to survive. To separate banana plants, gently remove the soil around the plant’s roots and sucker. When the soil is removed, you can make sure that the pup you are dividing is growing its own roots. If not, put the soil back and give it more time. If the pup has nice roots of its own growing separate from the parent plant, you can divide it and plant it as a new banana plant. With a clean, sharp knife, cut the banana plant pup off of the parent plant. Be careful not to cut any of the roots of the banana pup. Once cut, gently separate the roots of the parent plant and the banana plant pup. Try to get as much of the pup’s roots as you can. Then simply plant this new pup in a container or in the ground. Your new banana plants may wilt a little for the first week or two but will usually recover. Using a rooting fertilizer when dividing banana plants can help reduce the stress and shock of division. Also, water your new banana plants and the parent plant deeply and frequently after splitting to promote strong root development.

Banana plant pups are actually suckers, or offshoots, that grow from the base of the banana plant. Can you transplant a banana tree pup to propagate a brand new banana tree? You certainly can, and dividing banana pups is easier than you may think. Read on to learn more.

How to Divide Banana Plants

According to North Dakota State University Extension, dividing banana pups is the preferred methods of propagation. Before you begin, ensure the main banana plant is healthy and has at least three or four good sized offshoots to anchor it to the soil. The first and most important step is to select a pup that is large enough to survive when separated from the mother plant. 

Small pups, known as buttons, won’t have sufficient roots to make it on their own. Don’t attempt to propagate pups less than 12 inches (30 cm.) tall. Shoots measuring 2 to 3 feet (61-91 cm.) tall and a minimum of 2 or 3 inches (5-8 cm.) in diameter are more likely to develop into healthy plants. 

It also helps to look for sword suckers, which have narrower leaves than water suckers. Sword suckers have a larger root system, while water suckers are more dependent on the mother plant for survival. Once you’ve identified the pup you intend to divide, sever it from the parent with a sharp, sterile knife, then use a shovel to dig the corm (rhizome).

Lift the pup and corm up and away from the mother plant as you carefully separate the roots. However, don’t worry if a few roots are broken; the most important thing is to get a good-sized chunk of corm and a few healthy roots.

Transplanting Banana Plant Pups

Your banana pup is now ready to be planted away from the mother plant. Plant the pup in well-drained soil that has been amended with compost or rotted manure. Don’t plant too deeply; ideally, the pup should be planted at the same depth it was growing while still attached to the parent plant. 

If you’re planting more than one pup, allow at least 2 to 3 feet (61-91 cm.) between each one. If you live in a warm climate where the trees will produce fruit, allow at least 8 feet (2+ m.). You can also plant the pup in a pot filled with fresh, well-drained potting mix. 

Be sure the container has drainage holes. Water the pup deeply, then apply a layer of mulch around (but not touching) the pup to keep the soil moist and moderate temperature. Don’t be worried if the leaves wilt and initial growth is rather slow.

In fact, you can direct energy to root development by trimming all but the top leaf, as the leaves will probably wither anyway. It also helps to keep the newly transplanted pup in the shade for the first few days.

Banana trees are stunning additions to the garden. They can grow as much as 10 feet (3 m.) in a single season, and their imposing size and large leaves give a tropical, exotic look to your home. If you don’t actually live in the tropics, you’re going to have to find something to do with your tree once winter comes. Keep reading to learn more about how to keep a banana tree over winter.

Banana Plants in Winter

Temperatures below freezing will kill a banana’s leaves, and just a few degrees lower will kill the plant down to the ground. If your winters never get below the high 20s Fahrenheit (-6 to -1 C.), your tree’s roots may be able to survive outside to grow a new trunk in the spring. Any colder, though, and you’ll need to move it inside. The absolute easiest way to deal with banana plants in winter is simply to treat them as annuals. Since they grow so fast in a single season, you can plant a new tree in the spring and have a striking presence in your garden all summer. When fall comes, simply let it die and start the process over again next year. If you’re serious about keeping banana trees in winter, you’ll need to bring them indoors. Red banana plants are a popular choice for containers because they tend to be smaller. If you have a red banana that’s a manageable size, bring it inside before autumn temperatures start to drop and place it in as bright a window as you can find, and water it regularly. Even with good treatment, the plant will probably decline. It should survive until spring though.

Overwintering a Banana Tree Outside

Overwintering banana plants is a different story if they’re too big to fit inside. If this is the case, cut the plant down to 6 inches (15 cm.) above the ground and either apply a thick layer of mulch or store those in containers in a cool, dark place for the winter, watering it very minimally. You can also choose to leave the foliage on hardier types over winter. Give it a good watering in the spring to encourage new growth. It may not get as big as a plant that overwinters with its stem, but at least it will be alive for a new season. Hardy banana tree types will normally come back fine but may need pruning of any dead growth if it was left on.

Peppers come in a range of sizes, colors, and heat levels. Some, like the banana pepper, are a bit more on the sweet side and are delicious grilled or eaten raw or pickled. As with any pepper variety, you may encounter problems growing banana peppers. Perhaps, you are waiting with baited breath to harvest the first sweet pepper but suddenly notice brown banana pepper plants or fruit. Why are my banana peppers turning brown, you wonder. Is there anything that can be done about brown banana pepper plants? Let’s learn more.

Why are My Banana Peppers Turning Brown?

There is a difference between the fruit turning brown and the plant turning brown, first of all.

When Banana Peppers Turn Brown

A common affliction of peppers, as well as tomatoes and eggplant, is called blossom end rot or BER. This happened to me in my container grown peppers, which were otherwise gloriously healthy and abundant until one day I noticed a dark lesion at the blossom end of some developing fruit. I didn’t really think anything of it at first until a few days later when I noticed quite a few more with the problem, and the brown areas were getting larger, sunken, black, and leathery. This disorder is very common and, in commercial crops, can be extremely disastrous, with losses of 50% or greater. If your banana peppers turn brown at the blossom end, it is almost certainly BER. On occasion, the lesion might be mistaken for sunscald, but sunscald is actually whiter in color. BER will be brown to dark brown, on the sides of the pepper near the blossom end. BER is not caused by a parasite or pathogen. It is related to insufficient calcium uptake in the fruit. Calcium is needed for normal cell growth and, when lacking in the fruit, results in tissue breakdown. Low calcium levels in the soil or stresses, such as drought or inconsistent irrigation, can affect the uptake of calcium, causing BER. To combat BER, keep the soil pH about 6.5. The addition of lime will add calcium and stabilize the soil pH. Don’t use ammonia rich nitrogen fertilizer, which can reduce calcium intake. Instead, use nitrate nitrogen. Avoid drought stress and huge swings in soil moisture. Mulch around the plants to retain moisture and water as needed - one inch (2.5 cm.) per week of irrigation, depending upon temperatures. If you are going through a heat wave, plants may need additional water.

Brown Banana Pepper Plants

Brown banana pepper plants are a different problem when growing pepper plants. The cause is most likely a fungal disease called Phytophthora. It afflicts pumpkins, tomatoes, eggplants, and squash as well as peppers. In the case of peppers, Phythophthora capsici fungus attacks and can persist in the garden for up to 10 years in the right conditions. The symptoms are sudden wilting of the plant, which can’t be repaired with additional irrigation. At the crown and stem, dark lesions appear. Sometimes the fungus also targets fruit, spotting it with white, spongy mold. This fungus overwinters in the soil and as spring soil temperatures rise, and rain and wind increase, the spores mobilize to plants, infecting the root systems or wet foliage. Phytophthora thrives in soil temps above 65 degrees F. (18 C.) along with plentiful rain and 75-85 degree F. (23-29 C.) weather. Cultural controls are your best bet combating Phytophthora.

• Plant peppers in raised beds with excellent drainage and water using a drip irrigation system. Also, water the plants in the early morning and don’t overwater them.
• Rotate banana pepper crops with Phytophthora resistant crops and avoid planting tomatoes, squash, or other peppers.
• Also, sanitize tools in a solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water to avoid spreading this or any fungal disease.

Lastly, banana peppers will go from yellow to orange and eventually to a bright red if left long enough on the plant. So what you might be viewing as browning on the pepper might just be the next shift in color from a bit of purplish-brown changing into the final fire engine red. If the pepper doesn’t smell, and isn’t moldy or mushy, chances are that this is the case and the pepper is perfectly safe to eat.

If you live in USDA zones 8 through 11 you get to grow a plantain tree. I’m jealous. What is a plantain? It’s sort of like a banana but not really. Keep reading for fascinating information on how to grow plantain trees and plantain plant care.

What is a Plantain?

Plantains (Musa paradisiaca) are related to banana. They look quite similar and are, in fact, morphologically similar, but while bananas are grown for their sugary fruit, growing plantains are cultivated for their firmer, starchy fruit. Both are members of the Musa genus and are technically large herbs and their fruit is classified as berries. Plantains and their cultivated ancestors originated in the Malaysian peninsula, New Guinea, and southeast Asia and can attain heights of 7 to 30 feet (2-9 m.). Plantains are a hybrid of two species of banana, Musa acuminata and Musa balbisiana. Unlike bananas though, which are eaten fresh, plantains are almost always cooked. Plantains are grown from a super long 12 to 15 foot (4-5 m.) underground rhizome. The resulting plant has giant leaves, up to 9 feet (3 m.) long and 2 feet (61 cm.) across, wrapping around a central trunk or pseudostem. Flowering takes 10 to 15 months of mild temperatures and yet another four to eight months to fruit. Flowers are produced from the pseudostem and develop into a cluster of hanging fruit. In commercial growing plantain plantations, once the fruit is harvested, the plant is cut down soon to be replaced by pups that sprout up from the mother plant.

How to Grow Plantain Trees

Plantains are grown just like bananas, which if you live in USDA zones 8 through 11, you can grow too. I’m still jealous. Initial plantain plant care requires well-draining soil, regular watering, and protection from wind or frost. Choose a sunny, warm area of your garden and dig a hole that is as deep as the root ball. Plant the plantain at the same level it was growing in the pot. Keep the plantain 4 to 6 feet (1-2 m.) from other plants to give it plenty of room to spread. Add 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm.) of organic mulch around the tree, keeping it 6 inches (15 cm.) away from the pseudostem. Spread this mulch out in a circle 4 to 6 feet (1-2 m.) wide around the tree to help the soil retain water and protect the plant's roots.

Plantain Plant Care

The number one rule when caring for plantain trees is don’t let them dry out. They love moist soil, not soggy, and need careful watching during hot, dry weather. The number two rule of plantain plant care is to protect the plant. Cover it with a blanket during cold snaps and put a light bulb or string of holiday lights under the blanket. While the rhizomes will survive underground down to 22 degrees F. (-6 C.), the rest of the plant will die back during freezing temperatures. Follow those two rules and caring for plantain trees is fairly simple. As with all plants, some feeding is required. Feed the plant once a month during the summer with a slow-release 8-10-8 fertilizer. A heavy feeder, a mature tree needs about 1 to 2 pounds (0.5-1 kg.), spread out in a 4 to 8 foot (1-2 m.) radius around the plant, and then lightly worked into the soil. Prune off suckers with a pair of gardening pruners. This will divert all the energy to the main plant unless, of course, you are propagating a new plant. If so, leave one sucker per plant and let it grow on the parent for six to eight months before removing it. When the fruit is ripe, cut it from the pseudostem with a knife. Then chop the tree down to the ground and whack up the detritus to use as mulch to be spread around the new plantain tree that will arise from the rhizomes.

Commercially grown bananas that are cultivated specifically for consumption don’t have seeds. Over time, they have been modified to have three sets of genes instead of two (triploid) and produce no seeds. In nature, however, one encounters many banana types with seeds; in fact, some seeds are so large it is difficult to get to the pulp. That said, can you grow bananas from seed? Read on to find out about growing banana trees from seeds.

Can You Grow Bananas from Seed?

As mentioned above, the banana you are eating for breakfast has been genetically tinkered with to lack seeds and are usually Cavendish bananas. There are many other banana varieties out there and they do contain seeds. Cavendish bananas are propagated by pups or suckers, pieces of rhizome that form into miniature banana plants that can be severed from the parent and planted to become a separate plant. In the wild, bananas are propagated via seed. You, too, can grow seed grown bananas.

Propagating Banana Plants

If you want to grow seed grown bananas, be aware that the resulting fruit will not be like those you buy at the grocers. They will contain seeds and, depending upon the variety, might be so large that the fruit is difficult to get to. That said, from what I have read, many people say the flavor of wild bananas is superior to the grocery store version. To begin germinating the banana seeds, soak the seed in warm water for 24 to 48 hours to break the seed dormancy. This softens the seed coat, enabling the embryo to sprout more easily and rapidly. Prepare an outdoor bed in a sunny area or use a seed tray or other container and fill with potting soil enriched with plenty of organic compost in the amount of 60% sand or airy loam to 40% organic matter. Sow the banana seeds 1/4 inch (6 mm.) deep and backfill with compost. Water seeds until the soil is moist, not drenched, and maintain damp conditions while growing banana trees from seeds. When germinating banana seeds, even hardy bananas, keep the temperature at least 60 degrees F. (15 C.). Different varieties respond to temperature fluxes differently, however. Some do well with 19 hours of cool and 5 hours of warm temps. Using a heated propagator and turning it on during the day and off at night may be the easiest way to monitor temperature fluctuations. The time that a banana seed germinates, again, depends on the variety. Some germinate in two to three weeks while others may take two or more months, so be patient when propagating banana plants via seed.

If you’ve ever watched your favorite weeping fig drop its leaves like tears when the light changed a little, you may be ready to try banana leaf ficus tree (Ficus maclellandii sometimes labeled as F. binnendijkii). Banana leaf fig is much less temperamental than its cousin ficus species and adapts more readily to changing illumination in your home. Read on for information about growing banana leaf ficus.

Ficus Banana Leaf Plants

Ficus is the Latin word for fig and is also the genus name of about 800 fig species. Figs are woody trees, shrubs, or vines native to Asia, Australia, and Africa. Those species cultivated for home gardens or backyards either produce edible fruit or are grown for their ornamental value. Banana leaf ficus trees are shrubs or small trees with long, saber-shaped leaves. The leaves emerge red, but later turn dark green and become leathery. They droop gracefully from the tree, adding an exotic or tropical look to your home. Ficus banana leaf plants can be grown with one stem, multiple stems, or even braided stems. The crown is open and irregular.

Growing Banana Leaf Ficus

Like the weeping fig, the banana leaf ficus tree grows into a small tree, up to 12 feet (3.5 m.) tall, and is usually grown as a houseplant. As a tropical fig, it can only grow outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 11. Growing banana leaf ficus plants successfully is mostly a matter of finding the correct location for the shrub. The banana leaf fig needs an indoor location with bright filtered light that is protected from drafts. Use well-drained soilless potting mix for growing banana leaf ficus plants. When it comes to banana leaf ficus care, your temptation may be to overwater the tree. However, you must resist. Keep the soil slightly moist and avoid overwatering. If you apply an inch (2.5 cm.) of organic mulch, like wood chips, it helps keep that moisture in. Fertilizer is a part of banana leaf ficus care. Feed your ficus banana leaf plant with a general, water-soluble fertilizer every other month in spring, summer, and fall. Do not fertilize the plant in winter. You can prune the plant a little if you think it is necessary to shape it.

Bananas may be one of the most popular fruits sold in the United States. Grown commercially as a food source, bananas also feature prominently in warm region gardens and conservatories, making striking additions to the landscape. When planted in areas with plenty of sun, bananas are not all that hard to grow, but problems with banana plants are bound to crop up nonetheless. What kinds of banana plant pests and diseases are there? Keep reading to find out how to solve problems with banana plants.

Growing Banana Plant Problems

Bananas are monocotyledonous herbaceous plants, not trees, of which there are two species– Musa acuminata and Musa balbisiana, native to southeast Asia. Most banana cultivars are hybrids of these two species. Bananas were most likely introduced to the New World by southeast Asians around 200 B.C. and by Portuguese and Spanish explorers in the early 16th century. The majority of bananas are not hardy and are susceptible to even a light freeze. Extreme cold damage results in the dieback of the crown. Leaves will also naturally shed in exposed areas, an adaptation to tropical storms. Leaves may droop from under or overwatering while brown edges indicate a lack of water or humidity. Another growing banana plant problem is the plant’s size and propensity to spread. Keep that in mind when locating a banana in your garden. Along with these concerns, there are many banana pests and diseases that may afflict a banana plant.

Banana Plant Pests

A number of insect pests can affect banana plants. Here are the most common:

• Nematodes: Nematodes are a common banana plant pest. They cause rotting of the corms and act as a vector to the fungus Fusarium oxysporum. There are a number of different species of nematode that like bananas as much as we do. Commercial farmers apply nematicides, which when properly applied, will protect the crop. Otherwise, the soil has to be cleared, plowed, and then exposed to the sun and left fallow for up to three years.
• Weevils: The black weevil (Cosmopolites sordidus) or banana stalk borer, banana weevil borer, or corm weevil is the second most destructive pest. Black weevils attack the base of the pseudostem and tunnel upward whereupon a jelly-like sap oozes out from the entry point. Different pesticides are used commercially depending upon the country to control black weevils. Biological control utilizes a predator, Piaesius javanus, but has not been shown to have any truly beneficial results.
• Thrips: Banana rust thrips (C. signipennis), as its name suggests, stains the peel, causing it to split and exposes the flesh which then begins to rot. Insecticidal dust (Diazinon) or a spraying of Dieldrin can control thrips, which pupate in the soil. Additional insecticides combined with polyethylene bagging are also used to control thrips on commercial farms.
• Scarring beetle: The banana fruit scarring beetle, or coquito, invades the bunches when the fruit is young. The banana scab moth infests the inflorescence and is controlled with the use of an injection or dusting of pesticide.
• Sap-sucking insects: Mealybugs, red spider mites, and aphids may also pay a visit to banana plants.

Banana Plant Diseases

There are quite a number of banana plant diseases that can afflict this plant as well.

• Sigatoka: Sigatoka, also known as leaf spot, is caused by the fungus Mycospharella musicola. It is most commonly found in areas of poorly draining soil and areas of heavy dew. The initial stages show small, pale spots on the leaves that gradually enlarge to about a half inch (1 cm.) in size and become purple/black with gray centers. If the whole plant is infected, it looks as if it has been burned. Orchard grade mineral oil can be sprayed on the banana every three weeks for a total of 12 applications to control Sigatoka. Commercial growers also use aerial spraying and systemic fungicide application to control the disease. Some banana cultivars also show some resistance to Sigatoka.
• Black leaf streak: M. fifiensis causes Black Sigatoka, or Black Leaf Streak, and is much more virulent than Sigatoka. The cultivars that have some resistance to Sigatoka show none to Black Sigatoka. Fungicides have been used to try and control this disease on commercial banana farms through aerial spraying but this is costly and difficult due to scattered plantations.
• Banana wilt: Another fungus, Fusarium oxysporum, causes Panama disease or Banana Wilt (Fusarium wilt). It begins in the soil and travels to the root system, then enters the corm and passes into the pseudostem. Leaves begin to yellow, starting with the oldest leaves and moving in towards the center of the banana. This disease is lethal. It is transmitted through water, wind, moving soil, and farm equipment. On banana plantations, fields are flooded to control the fungus or by planting a covercrop.
• Moko disease: A bacterium, Pseudomona solanacearum, is the culprit resulting in Moko Disease. This disease is the chief disease of banana and plantain in the western hemisphere. It is transmitted via insects, machetes and other farm tools, plant detritus, soil, and root contact with ailing plants. The only sure defense is to plant resistant cultivars. Controlling infected bananas is time-consuming, expensive, and resistant.
• Black end and Cigar tip rot: Black end stems from another fungus causes anthracnose on the plants and infects the stalk and fruiting end. Young fruit shrivels and mummifies. Stored bananas afflicted with this disease rot. Cigar tip rot starts in the flower, moves to the tips of the fruit, and turns them black and fibrous.
• Bunchy top: Bunchy top is transmitted via aphids. Its introduction almost wiped out the commercial banana industry in Queensland. Eradication and control measures along with a quarantine area have managed to stamp out the disease but growers are eternally vigilant for any signs of bunchy top. Leaves are narrow and short with upturned margins. They become stiff and brittle with short leaf stalks that give the plant a rosette look. Young leaves yellow and become wavy with dark green “dot and dash” lines on the undersides.

These are just some of the pests and diseases that can afflict a banana plant. Vigilant attention to any changes in your banana will keep it healthy and fruitful for years to come.

Bananas are one of the most popular fruit in the world. If you are lucky enough to have a banana tree of your own, you may wonder when to pick the bananas. Read on to find out how to harvest bananas at home.

Harvesting Banana Trees

Banana plants are not actually trees but large herbs with succulent, juicy stems that arise from a fleshy corm. Suckers continually spring up around the main plant with the oldest sucker replacing the main plant as it fruits and dies. Smooth, oblong, elliptical, fleshy stalked leaves unfurl in a spiral around the stem.

A terminal spike, the inflorescence, shoots out from the heart in the tip of the stem. As it opens, clusters of white flowers are revealed. Female flowers are borne on the lower 5-15 rows and males upon the upper rows.

As the young fruit, technically a berry, develop, they form slender green fingers which grow into a “hand” of bananas that droops due to its weight until the bunch is upside down.

When to Pick Bananas

The size of the fruit varies depending upon the variety of banana, so isn’t always a good indicator for picking bananas. Generally, banana tree harvesting can commence when the fruit on the upper hands are changing from dark green to a light greenish yellow and the fruit is plump. Banana stalks take 75-80 days from flower production to mature fruit.

How to Harvest Bananas at Home

Before picking bananas, look for “hands” of fruit that are filled out with no prominent angles, are light green and with flower remnants that are easily rubbed off. The fruit will generally be 75% mature, but bananas can be cut and used at different stages of ripeness and even green ones can be cut and cooked much like plantains. Home growers will generally harvest the fruit 7-14 days prior to ripening on the plant.

Once you have ascertained that it’s time for banana tree harvesting, use a sharp knife and cut the “hands” off. You can leave 6-9 inches (15-23 cm.) of stalk on the hand, if you wish, to make it easier to carry, especially if it is a large bunch.

You may end up with one or many hands when harvesting banana trees. The hands don’t usually mature all at once, which will extend the time you have to consume them. Once you are done harvesting the banana trees, store them in a cool, shady area - not the refrigerator, which will damage them.

Also, don’t cover them with plastic, as that can trap the ethylene gas they give off and speed up the ripening process too rapidly. They will naturally turn yellow and ripen completely on their own, and you can enjoy the fruits of your banana tree harvesting.

One of the most versatile squash out there is the pink banana squash. It can be grown as a summer squash, harvested at that time and eaten raw. Or, you can wait patiently for fall harvest and use it just like a butternut -- sautéed, steamed or roasted, and then use it alone or in casseroles, soups and even in pies!

What is Banana Squash?

With this dizzying array of uses, I'm sure the question, “What is banana squash?” is foremost in your mind as well as how to grow banana squash. Banana squash plants are a member of the Cucurbita family (C. maxima). There are hybrid varieties referred to as “rainbow,” heirloom varieties such as Sibley or Pike's Peak as well as blue and pink banana types of squash. Banana squash plants can be traced back to ancient sites in Peru and were traded across the Americas. Pink banana squash is also known as Mexican Banana and Plymouth Rock and was introduced to the market in 1893. Banana squash has an elongated shape, curving slightly the older it gets, and smooth outer skin, that is, yes, pinkish-orange with flesh colored stripes, or bluish-gray or even solid yellow in hue depending upon the cultivar. The interior of the squash is firm, meaty and orange in color. It can reach an imposing size of up to 40 pounds (18 kg.), but the average weight is about 10 pounds (4.5 kg.), 2-3 feet (60-91 cm.) long and 8 inches (20 cm.) around. This New World crop gradually fell out of favor, and although today it is enjoying resurgence in popularity, seed for this varietal are still most likely to be found among heirloom seed savers.

How to Grow Banana Squash

If you decide to cultivate some banana squash of your own, which is highly recommended, keep in mind that this squash needs some serious space to grow. The vines resemble those of the Hubbard and can reach 12-15 feet (3.6-4.5 m.) in length. The fruit takes at least 120 days for maturation. Sow the seed in planting soil at a depth of ¾ to 1 inch (1.9 to 2.5 cm.) deep and water them in well. Germination will occur between 9-14 days. Once the banana squash plants have two or three sets of leaves, they can be transplanted 9-12 inches (23-30 cm.) apart. Fertilize them with a high nitrogen fertilizer after the first flowers set and again three or four weeks after. Don't fertilize thereafter, however, or you will be nourishing the foliage and not the fruit. When the squash is about the size of a small banana, place a ½-inch (1.27 cm.) plank beneath it to keep it dry and prevent spoiling. Harvest your banana squash when it is between 12-16 inches (30-41 cm.) long by cutting it from the stem. The banana squash can be stored in a dry, dark, cool (50-60 F. or 10-15 C.) area with plenty of air circulation surrounding it. You can then use it just as butternut or kabocha squash. Roast it and add to soup, stew or casserole. Shave it thinly and add to fresh salad greens or atop pizza. Herbs that pair nicely with banana squash are:

• Bay
• Cumin
• Curry
• Cinnamon
• Ginger
• Nutmeg
• Rosemary
• Sage
• Thyme

Store this big beauty properly, and it can last for up to six months.

The banana shrub is a tropical to subtropical elegant tree to bush. The scientific designation is Michelia figo, and the plant is hardy in the warmer USDA plant hardiness zones 7 to 10. Michelia banana shrubs are more properly trees that can grow 6 to 15 feet (2-5 m.) in height. If you are a warm region gardener, you should explore how to grow banana shrubs and experience the sweet fragrant flowers with a scent reminiscent of our favorite yellow fruits.

About Michelia Banana Shrubs

Michelia banana shrubs are members of the Magnolia family, which is evident in the shape and form of their large blooms. The tree has glossy evergreen leaves and an attractive, rounded habit. The 3 inch (8 cm.) long leaves are slightly fuzzy, and buds and new leaves are covered in rusty toned fuzz. These aren't its most spectacular attributes though. Wait until late spring when the one inch (2.5 cm.) cup-shaped, cream rose or maroon-colored flowers appear. Their scent is much like that of a ripe sweet banana.

How to Grow Banana Shrubs

Choose a sunny location when planting a banana shrub, with well-draining soil and adequate organic matter. Acidic soils create the best medium for planting a banana shrub. Sadly, this plant is not at all hardy and will not survive in temperate or cooler zones. It has great drought tolerance but is not suitable for desert scenarios either. The tree is excellent used as a screen or planted near the home so you can enjoy the fragrance. Propagation is through stem cuttings using a rooting hormone. The flowers do turn into small hard fruits with multiple tiny seeds, but the seeds are generally not viable.

Banana Shrub Care

Michelia banana shrubs are low maintenance trees with no root invasiveness. Once established they are remarkably resistant to most pest and disease problems. Scale insects, however, are of particular concern and can cause severe defoliation but are easily managed with organic horticultural oil. Some root rot conditions may arise where the soil is too rich and moist. Young plants should be trained to one leader for the best overall effect on mature specimens. New banana shrub care should start with effective pruning of extra stems and suckers at the base of the plant. Choose the strongest, straightest trunk to provide a stable and attractive base for the plant.

Pruning Banana Shrubs

The tree responds well to annual pruning. Pruning banana shrubs should be done when the plant is most dormant in winter or spring before new growth emerges. Always use sharp, clean cutting implements to prevent transferring diseases from plant to plant. Cut just after a bud node and remove any branch back to the branch collar where it sprung from the parent wood. Remove any dead or broken plant material and continue training young plants. Use a stake and tree sling when trees are forming to help support the young growth. Remove these items when the plant is established and strong. Michelia banana shrubs tend to grow straighter in one central leader in lower light situations but in full sun they require more pruning maintenance. You can even keep the trees trimmed in a low habit so you can grow them in a container.

Known by a multitude of names depending on where it's cultivated, Ensete false banana plants are an important food crop in many parts of Africa. Ensete ventricosum cultivation can be found in the countries of Ethiopia, Malawi, throughout South Africa, Kenya, and Zimbabwe. Let's learn more about false banana plants.

What is False Banana?

A valuable food crop, Ensete ventricosum cultivation provides more food per square meter than any other cereal. Known as “false banana,” Ensete false banana plants look just like their namesakes, only larger-- 39 feet (12 m.) high, with leaves that are more erect, and inedible fruit. The large leaves are lance-shaped, arrayed in a spiral, and are bright green struck with a red midrib. The “trunk” of Ensete false banana plant is really three separate sections. So what is false banana used for? Inside this meter-thick trunk or “pseudo-stem” lays the main product of starchy pith, which is pulped and then fermented while buried underground for three to six months. The resulting product is called “kocho,” which is a bit like heavy bread and is eaten with milk, cheese, cabbage, meat, and/or coffee. The resultant Ensete false banana plants provide not only food, but fiber for making ropes and mats. False banana also has medicinal uses in the healing of wounds and bone breaks, enabling them to heal more quickly.

Additional Information About False Banana

This traditional staple crop is highly drought resistant, and in fact, can live up to seven years without water. This provides a reliable food source for the people and ensures no famine period during the drought. Ensete takes four to five years to reach maturation, therefore, plantings are staggered to maintain an available harvest for each season. While wild Ensete is produced from seed propagation, Ensete ventricosum cultivation occurs from suckers, with up to 400 suckers produced from one mother plant. These plants are cultivated in a mixed system interspersing grains like wheat and barley or sorghum, coffee, and animals with the Ensete ventricosum cultivation.

Ensete's Role in Sustainable Farming

Ensete acts as a host plant to such crops as coffee. Coffee plants are planted in Ensete's shade and are nurtured by the vast water reservoir of its fibrous torso. This makes for a symbiotic relationship; a win/win for the farmer of a food crop and cash crop in a sustainable manner. Although a traditional food plant in many parts of Africa, not every culture there cultivates it. Its introduction into more of these areas is extremely important and may be the key to nutritional security, engender rural development, and support sustainable land use. As a transitional crop replacing such environmentally damaging species as Eucalyptus, the Ensete plant is seen as a great boon. Proper nutrition is necessary and has been shown to foster higher levels of education, health of course, and general prosperity.

Love the look of lush tropical foliage? There is a plant that can help transform your garden landscape into a bit of the Hawaiian tropics, even if your winters tend to be less than balmy. The genus Musa are cold-hardy banana plants that grow well and overwinter up to USDA plant hardiness zone 4. You may need some space for growing a cold hardy banana tree though, as most specimens attain heights of 12 to 18 feet (3.5 to 5.5 m.).

Hardy Banana Tree Growing

Hardy banana trees like to be grown in full to partial sun and well-drained, moist soil. The hardy banana tree is actually an herbaceous perennial (the world's largest) despite being referred to as a tree. What looks like a trunk is actually tightly bound banana tree leaves. This “trunk” is botanically referred to as pseudostem, which means false stem. 

The interior of the banana tree pseudostem is where all the growth of the plant takes place, similar to a canna lily. The giant leaves of the cold-hardy banana tree -- some species may become eleven feet (3 m.) long -- serve a useful purpose. During tropical storms or hurricanes, the leaf will shred along each side. 

Although a bit unsightly, the raggedy look keeps the leaves of the banana tree from being snapped off in the high winds. Propagation of the hardy banana tree is achieved through division, which will take a sharp spade and strong back.

Hardy Banana Types

The pseudostem of the hardy banana has a short lifespan, living only long enough to flower and fruit. This process can often take more than a year, so when planting in colder climates, you will be unlikely to see any fruit. If you do see fruit, consider yourself lucky, but the fruit will probably be inedible. Some varieties of cold-hardy banana trees include:

• Musa basjoo, which is the largest variety and the most cold-hardy
• Musella lasiocarpa or dwarf banana, a relative of the banana tree with gigantic, yellow, artichoke-shaped fruit
• Musa velutina or pink banana, which is an early bloomer so more apt to bear fruit (albeit too seedy to eat)

These fruitless hardy banana tree species have been grown in the Ryukyu Island of Japan since the 13th century, and the fiber from the shoots is used in the weaving of textiles or even to make paper. For our more purely ornamental purposes, however, the hardy banana is lovely combined with bright, colored annuals or other tropical plants like canna and elephants ear.

Hardy Banana Trees Winter Care

Banana trees winter care is simple. Hardy banana trees grow rapidly, as much as 12 feet (3.5 m.) with 6-inch (15 cm.) leaves in one season. Once the first frost hits, the hardy banana will die back to the ground. To overwinter your hardy banana, prior to the first frost, cut back stems and leaves, leaving 8-10 inches (20.5-25.5 cm.) above ground. 

The hardy banana will then need good heavy mulch piled over the top of the remaining crown. Sometimes, depending on the size of your banana tree, this pile of mulch may be several feet (1 m.) high. For ease of removal the following spring, make a chicken wire cage to lay over the crown prior to mulching. Hardy banana trees can also be container planted, which can then be moved to a frost-free area.

Growing banana peppers requires plenty of sun, warm soil, and a long growing season. Starting them from transplants is how to grow a banana pepper in all but the warmest zones. There are many types of banana pepper. These fruits are found in either sweet or hot pepper varieties and are harvested when yellow, orange, or even red. Choose the heat level you like and harvest the fruit early for the most pungent flavor or later for a mellow, sweeter flavor.

Types of Banana Pepper

Banana peppers are long, slender fruits with waxy skin and minimal seeds. Use them as an appetizer or sliced on a sandwich. While there are different types of banana peppers that can be grown in the home garden, the Sweet Banana is the most common of the banana peppers. Banana peppers are ready for harvest in about 70 days after transplant, but the hot variety of banana pepper needs a longer growing season. Pick a variety that reflects your taste when growing banana peppers.

How to Grow a Banana Pepper

Start the seeds indoors at least 40 days before you wish to plant the peppers outdoors. Sow them under a light dusting of soil in peat pots and transplant seedlings outdoors after all danger of frost has passed and when soil temperatures warm to 60 degrees F. (16 C.). Place the plants in well-drained soil where the plants receive at least eight hours of sunlight per day.

Caring for Banana Pepper Plants

Caring for banana pepper plants is not difficult but a little TLC will increase your yield and the size of the fruits. Fertilize banana pepper plants after fruit begins to set with a 12-12-12 food. Pull competitive weeds and keep the soil evenly damp. Use mulch around the plants to help conserve moisture and keep weed populations down. Watch for signs of disease or insect injury. The most common insects are aphids, flea beetles, thrips, cutworms, and whitefly. The flying insects are controlled with a horticultural soap spray. Repel cutworms by using a collar from a toilet paper roll around tender young plants. Most diseases are prevented by reducing overhead watering, proper soil preparation prior to planting, and disease resistant seeds from reputable growers.

Best Time to Harvest Banana Peppers

The best time to harvest banana peppers is when they are full sized and have firm skins. You can take them off the plant when they are yellow or wait until they mature to a deep orange or even red. Growing banana peppers begin to slow their production when temperatures at night cool. Cut off individual fruits as you need them. When the season comes to an end, pull the entire plant and hang it to dry. Keep fresh fruits in the crisper or a cool, dark location for up to a week.

Banana Pepper Uses

Banana peppers pickle or can well if you can't use the fruits within a week. You can also roast them and freeze for later use. Banana peppers are delicious used in sauces, relishes, or raw on salads and sandwiches. String the peppers up and let them dry in a cool location or slice them lengthwise, remove the seeds, and dry them in a dehydrator or a low oven. Banana peppers are a versatile and fun to grow fruit that provide a flavor punch and plenty of Vitamins A and C.

Many people are excited to find out that they can use banana peels as fertilizer. Using banana peels in compost is a great way to add both organic material and some very important nutrients to your compost mix. Learning how to compost banana peels is easy, but there are a few things you need to be aware of when putting banana in compost.

The Effect of Bananas on Soil Compost

Putting banana peel in your compost pile will help add calcium, magnesium, sulfur, phosphates, potassium and sodium, all of which are important to the healthy growth of both flowering and fruiting plants. Bananas in compost also help add healthy organic material, which help the compost retain water and make soil lighter when added to your garden.

Beyond this, banana peels will break down quickly in compost, which allows them to add these important nutrients to the compost much more quickly than some other compost materials.

How to Compost Banana Peels

Composting banana peels is as easy as simply tossing your leftover banana peels into the compost. You can toss them in whole, but be aware that they may take longer to compost this way. You can speed up the composting process by cutting up the banana peels into smaller pieces.

Many people also wonder if banana peels can be used as a direct fertilizer. You will find this advice in many gardening books and websites, especially in regard to roses. While, yes, you can use banana peels as fertilizer and it will not harm your plant, it is best to compost them first.

Burying the banana peels in the soil under a plant can slow down the process that breaks down the peels and makes their nutrients available to the plant. This process needs air to happen, and buried banana peels will break down much more slowly than ones that are placed in a properly maintained compost pile that is turned and aerated on a regular basis.

So, the next time you are enjoying a healthy banana snack, remember that your compost pile (and eventually your garden) would appreciate getting the banana peels that are left over.

Have you ever wondered if you could grow a banana plant indoors? We all know about bananas, specifically the Cavendish variety found at the supermarket, but there are many other varieties. If you’ve been to a tropical region you may have seen one of these equatorial beauties and marveled at their height (20-40 feet/6-12 m).

When growing bananas, something that size is obviously not suited to indoors. It is possible, however, to grow a beautiful indoor banana plant. Several varieties of banana are more suited as an indoor banana tree, and they’re generally dwarf varieties. Read on to learn about growing bananas indoors.

Can You Grow a Banana Tree Indoors?

Yes, it’s possible to grow a banana plant indoors but look for a dwarf variety that will top out at under 10 feet (3 m).

Banana Plant Indoor Care

Don’t get too excited about the indoor banana plant producing actual fruit. It isn’t common for them to fruit indoors and if they do, it may take 3-4 years. If their requirements aren’t met or the variety of plant is simply ornamental, it will not fruit.

Just like all plants, banana trees have specific light, water, temperature, humidity, and soil requirements. If you can mimic these requirements in your home, you can successfully grow a dramatic, elegant banana tree in your home.

• Light
  Banana plants love light, lots of it. In their native habitat, it isn’t uncommon for them to get 12 or more hours of sunlight, which is pretty difficult to replicate inside. To ensure the success of your banana tree, you might try supplemental lighting in the form of grow lights.
• Water
  Banana plants are thirsty plants and definitely not drought-hardy. Keep the soil consistently moist. If the leaves of your banana droop, it’s a good sign the plant needs water. Conversely, banana plants do not like wet roots so do not allow the plant to sit in a wet saucer.
• Temperature & Humidity
  Another difficulty with growing banana plants indoors is that most varieties like it hot and humid; about 80-89 F (27-32 C) during the day and no lower than 69 F (20 C) at night. They also like humid conditions. A humidifier next to the plant is helpful as is grouping multiple banana plants or other tropical specimens together. Mist the plant daily to up the humidity.
• Soil
  While bananas love water they are also susceptible to root rot so a soil that is well-draining is imperative. Choose a good quality potting soil with ingredients such as perlite to aid in drainage that is also rich in organic matter.
• Fertilizer
  Banana plants are heavy feeders and should be fertilized weekly with a balanced liquid fertilizer during their growing season from spring to fall. At the same time, bananas are easily over-fertilized so it is best to dilute the fertilizer to half strength.
• Problems, Pests & Diseases
  Wet roots can lead to fungal disease. Plants are also susceptible to anthracnose, wilt, and mosaic virus. Over-fertilization may also be an issue that results in burned leaf tips. Other common banana problems include banana weevils, borers, root nematodes, and grasshoppers outside. Inside, watch for red spider mites, aphids, scale, and mealybugs.
• Pruning an Indoor Banana Plant
  To keep your indoor banana plant looking its best, you may need to prune out unsightly leaves on occasion. Banana leaves can become damaged for a number of reasons. They may yellow or brown or become holey or get lesions from pests or diseases. If you do remove dead or diseased leaves, do so with a pair of sterile shears of knife. Cut the stalk an inch or so from the trunk. Also, remove any suckers that are coming up from the rhizomes.

Propagation

Your indoor plant is likely to produce suckers or “pups”, shoots that arise from the rhizomes next to the primary stem. These can be easily separated for propagation by digging up the rhizome and separating the pup from it with a sharp knife.

Be sure the pup has its own roots. Allow the rhizome to dry out for 48 hours then plant it.

Repotting

Banana trees should be repotted each year in a container that is 2-3 inches larger than its current container.

Best Indoor Banana Plant Varieties

Dwarf varieties are the best types of banana trees for growth indoors. Try banana varieties such as dwarf Cavendish, dwarf Red, or Veranda.

Frequently Asked Questions