Many of us may know this beautiful plant in outdoor garden settings with its gorgeous white or pink heart-shaped flowers, but did you know that you can grow the bleeding heart plant inside too? In order to be able to grow bleeding heart as a houseplant, it is important to know the conditions that this plant enjoys outdoors. Then you can attempt to mimic these conditions for your indoor bleeding heart.

Houseplant Bleeding Heart 

Bleeding hearts can get quite large over time, so choose a pot that is about twice as wide as the root ball of your plant, and that also has a drainage hole.

Next, select a good all-purpose potting mix for your plant. Outdoors, these plants love plenty of organic material, so choose a potting mix that has plenty of organic material, or at least fertilizer blended in it in order to give your indoor bleeding heart plant a good start. It is a good idea to mix in some perlite or coarse sand into the potting mix to improve drainage.

Aim to keep the soil moist at all times, but not soggy. Adding the additional perlite and/or sand will help achieve a moist soil, but will still drain very well. The addition of perlite and sand will also help prevent root rot, which is a potential concern for your bleeding heart plant when it’s inside.

An ideal location for your indoor bleeding heart is an area that has bright, indirect light. Filtered sun will work well, and some morning sun is beneficial. Try and avoid hot, mid-day sun indoors.

Another concern you should have in growing bleeding heart as a houseplant is humidity. These plants, like ferns, enjoy high humidity. Aim to increase your humidity indoors if your air is dry.

Throughout the growing season, fertilize your indoor bleeding heart with a liquid fertilizer monthly, or you can also use a time release fertilizer that you can mix into the soil and not have to worry about the last time you fertilized.

Another important thing to remember about growing bleeding heart as a houseplant is that it will go dormant every year. Your plant is not dying; it is simply entering its dormancy phase. Dormancy will occur after the plant is done flowering, typically in late spring or early summer. Everything will start to turn yellow. Allow this to happen, and then trim all the dead stems off.

Once the plant is completely dormant, store the pot in a cool, dark place. Check on it monthly and water it occasionally if the soil is completely dry so the roots don’t die. When the plant is ready to grow again in the Spring it will flush out with new growth all over again. 

Old-fashioned favorites, bleeding hearts, Dicentra spectabilis, appear in the early spring, popping up alongside early blooming bulbs. Known for their lovely heart-shaped blooms, the most common color of which is pink, they may also be pink and white, red, or solid white. On occasion, the gardener may find, for example, that a previously pink bleeding heart flower is changing color. Is that possible? Do bleeding heart flowers change color and, if so, why?

Do Bleeding Hearts Change Color?

An herbaceous perennial, bleeding hearts pop up early in the spring and then being rather ephemeral, die fairly quickly back until the following year. Generally speaking, they will bloom again the same color they did the successive year, but not always because, yes, bleeding hearts can change color.

Why are Bleeding Heart Flowers Changing Color?

There are a few reasons for a bleeding heart color change. Just to get it out of the way, the first reason may be, are you sure you planted a pink bleeding heart? If the plant is blooming for the first time, it is possible that it has been mislabeled or if you received it from a friend, he or she may have thought it was pink but it’s white instead. Okay, now that the obvious is out of the way, what are some other reasons for a bleeding heart color change? Well, if the plant has been allowed to reproduce via seed, the cause may be a rare mutation or it may be due to a recessive gene that has been suppressed for generations and is now being expressed. The latter is less likely while the more probable cause is that the plants that grew from the seeds of the parent did not grow true to the parent plant. This is a fairly common occurrence, especially amongst hybrids, and happens throughout nature in both plants and animals. There may, indeed, be a recessive gene being expressed which is generating an interesting new trait, bleeding heart flowers changing color. Lastly, although this is just a thought, there is a possibility that the bleeding heart is changing bloom color due to the soil pH. This might be possible if the bleeding heart has been moved to a different location in the garden. Sensitivity to pH with regards to color variation is common amongst hydrangeas; perhaps bleeding hearts have a similar proclivity.

Bleeding heart perennials are a classic favorite for partially shaded gardens. With small heart-shaped flowers that look like they’re “bleeding,” these plants capture the imagination of gardeners of all ages. While the old-fashioned Asian native bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis) is the most commonly used type in gardens, growing fringed bleeding-heart varieties is gaining popularity. What is a fringed bleeding heart? Continue reading for more information on fringed bleeding-heart plants.

What is a Fringed Bleeding Heart?

Fringed bleeding heart (Dicentra eximia) is native to the eastern United States. It is found naturally throughout forest floors and shaded, rocky out-crops of the Appalachian Mountains. This native variety is also known as wild bleeding heart. They grow best in moist, humus rich soil in full to partially shaded locations. In the wild, fringed bleeding-heart plants will naturalize by self-seeding, but they are not considered to be aggressive or invasive. Hardy in zones 3 through 9, fringed bleeding heart grows to 1 to 2 feet (31-61 cm.) tall and wide. Plants produce fern-like, blue-green foliage that grows directly from the roots and stays low. This unique foliage is why they are called “fringed” bleeding heart. The same deep to light pink, heart-shaped flowers can be found, but the stems grow more upright, not arching like Dicentra spectabilis. These flowers put on a spectacular bloom display in spring to early summer too; however, fringed bleeding heart may continue to sporadically bloom throughout summer and early autumn if it is growing in favorable conditions.

How to Grow a Fringed Bleeding Heart

Growing fringed bleeding-heart plants requires a shady to partially shaded location with rich, fertile soil that is moist but well-draining. In sites that stay too wet, fringed bleeding hearts may succumb to fungal diseases and rots, or snail and slug damage. If soil is too dry, plants will be stunted, fail to flower, and will not naturalize. In the wild, fringed bleeding heart grows best in sites where years of decaying plant debris has made the soil rich and fertile. In gardens, you will need to add compost and regularly fertilize these bleeding heart plants to meet their high nutrient needs. Caring for bleeding hearts is as simple as planting them in the right site, watering them regularly and providing fertilizer. Slow-release fertilizers for outdoor flowering plants are recommended. Fringed bleeding-heart plants can be divided every three to five years in spring. Due to their toxicity when ingested, they are seldom bothered by deer or rabbits. ‘Luxuriant’ is a very popular variety of fringed bleeding heart with deep pink blooms and a very long bloom period. It will tolerate full sun when watered regularly. ‘Alba’ fringed bleeding heart is a popular variety with white heart-shaped blooms.

Bleeding-heart (Dicentra spectabilis) is an old-fashioned perennial that adds color and charm to shady spots in your garden. While the plant is surprisingly easy to grow, it can fall prey to a number of pesky insects. If you think something is bugging your plant, read on to learn about bleeding-heart pest problems and what to do about them.

Problem Insects for Bleeding Heart

Below are the three most common pests found on bleeding-hearts: Aphids are one of the most troublesome bleeding-heart pests. Also known as plant lice, aphids are tiny green or black bugs that damage the plant by sucking out the sweet sap. They are usually found en masse on stems or the undersides of leaves. A few aphids don’t cause much trouble, but a heavy infestation can weaken and kill a plant. Scale looks like waxy, tan or pale brown bumps on plant stems and leaves, but the pests are actually safely protected under the scale-like covering. Like aphids, scale harms plants by sucking the sweet juices. Slugs and snails, which are most active during the nighttime hours, chew ragged holes through leaves, leaving behind a slimy, silvery trail.

Controlling Pests on Bleeding Heart

Aphids and scale are usually easy to control with insecticidal soap spray, either homemade or commercial. Never spray on hot days or when the sun is directly on the foliage. These small sucking pests can also be controlled with horticultural oil or neem oil, which effectively smothers the pests. Either way, wait until later in the day to spray pests if you notice bees or other beneficial insects are present on the plant. Avoid chemical insecticides, which kill beneficial insects that help keep bleeding heart pests in check. Toxic chemicals are often counterproductive, helping harmful pests get the upper hand. It’s not a fun job, but one way to get rid of slugs and snails is to grab a flashlight and go on a hunting expedition in the evening or early morning. Wear gloves and drop the pests into a bucket of soapy water. You can also treat slugs with slug bait. Non-toxic and poisonous types are available in garden stores. Some gardeners have good luck with homemade traps such as a little beer in a jar lid. Others use diatomaceous earth, a natural substance that kills the pests by scraping the slimy underbelly. Keep the area around the plant free of leaves and other debris where slugs love to hide. Limit mulch to 3 inches (8 cm.) or less.

Bleeding heart (Dicentra spectablis) is a relatively hardy plant in spite of its lacy foliage and delicate, dangling blooms, but it can be plagued by a handful of diseases. Read on to learn about common diseases of bleeding-heart plants.

Bleeding Heart Symptoms of Disease

Powdery mildew – If your bleeding-heart plant is covered with powdery patches of black, gray, white, or pink “dust,” it is probably infected by powdery mildew. Left untreated, the patches will grow, causing deformed buds and curled, stunted leaves that eventually drop from the plant. Powdery mildew is unsightly, but it usually isn’t deadly for healthy plants. Leaf spot – The first sign your bleeding heart is infected with fungal leaf spot is generally small brown or black spots on the leaves. Eventually, the spots grow larger with a yellow ring or halo, and the center of the ring eventually rots out. As the disease progresses, the leaves fall, and the plant soon dies. Botrytis – A type of gray mold, botrytis causes bleeding-heart plants to turn brown, mushy, and soggy. If you aren’t sure your plant is infected by botrytis, masses of gray or silvery spores are a dead giveaway. Verticillium wilt – This nasty fungal disease, which is usually fatal, may be lurking on the plant before symptoms are visible. Once the foliage with verticillium begins to wilt, the plant will begin to turn yellow, then brown. Pythium root rot – Wilted and stunted growth are the initial symptoms of pythium root rot, followed by blackening and rotting of the roots. Pythium root rot often makes an appearance when temperatures are cool, and the soil is soggy.

How to Treat a Bleeding Heart

Treating a sick bleeding-heart starts with removing diseased areas of the plant as soon as possible, using sterile pruning shears. Be careful not to let infected plant parts fall on the ground. Remove the entire bleeding-heart plant if it is badly infected. Otherwise, the disease may spread to other plants. Clean up mulch, leaves, twigs, and other plant matter. Dispose of infected material by burning, or in sealed plastic bags. Water your bleeding-heart plant in the morning, using a soaker hose or drip irrigation system. Avoid overhead sprinklers. The key is to keep the foliage as dry as possible. Beware of overwatering, as most bleeding-heart diseases are favored by damp, humid conditions. Ensure the soil is well drained. If poorly drained soil is a problem in your garden, consider growing bleeding heart in raised beds or containers. Provide ample space between plants to allow sufficient air circulation. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. Instead, use a balanced fertilizer or a fertilizer with a slightly higher phosphorus content. Fungicides may be helpful, but only when used early in the season, as soon as symptoms are evident.

Years ago when I was new to gardening, I planted my first perennial bed with many of the old-time favorites, such as columbine, delphinium, bleeding heart, etc. For the most part, this flower bed was a beautiful success and helped me discover my green thumb. However, my bleeding heart plant always looked spindly, yellow, and barely produced any flowers. After two years of it dragging my garden down with its shabby, sickly appearance, I finally decided to move the bleeding heart to a less noticeable spot. To my surprise, the following spring this same sad little bleeding heart flourished in its new location and was covered with dramatic blooms and healthy lush green foliage. If you find yourself in a similar circumstance and need to move a bleeding heart plant, then read on to learn how.

How to Transplant a Bleeding Heart Plant

Sometimes we have a vision of a perfect flowerbed in our minds, but the plants have ideas of their own. The simple act of transplanting garden plants to a better location can occasionally help them perform better. Transplanting may seem a little scary and risky when you are new to gardening, but when done properly, oftentimes the risk pays off. Had I been afraid to move my bleeding heart, it probably would have continued to suffer until it died out. Bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis) is a perennial hardy in zones 3 through 9. It prefers a partially shaded location, where it will have some protection from the intense afternoon sun. Bleeding heart is not too particular about soil type, as long as the location is well draining. When transplanting bleeding heart, choose a site with afternoon shade and well-draining soil.

Caring For Bleeding Heart Transplants

When to transplant bleeding hearts depends on why you are transplanting it. Technically, you can move bleeding heart anytime, but it is less stressful for the plant if you do it in early spring or fall. If the plant is suffering in its current location, cut back any stems and foliage and transplant it to a new location. Bleeding heart plants are typically divided every three to five years. If you find yourself needing to transplant a large, established bleeding heart plant, it may be wise to divide it as well. When transplanting bleeding heart, prepare the new site first. Cultivate and loosen up the soil in the new site and add organic material if necessary. Dig a hole twice as large as the projected root ball. Dig up the bleeding heart, taking care to get as much of the root ball as you can. Plant the bleeding heart in the pre-dug hole and water it thoroughly. Water bleeding heart transplants every day for the first week, then every other day the second week and one to three times a week after that for the first active growing season.

Bleeding heart plants are a wonderful addition to the perennial garden. With their extremely distinctive heart-shaped flowers and low maintenance growing needs, these bushes bring a colorful and Old-World charm to any garden. What should you do when temperatures start to drop though? Keep reading to learn more about bleeding heart winter care and how to protect a bleeding heart during winter.

How to Protect a Bleeding Heart During Winter

Bleeding heart plants are perennials. Their roots will survive cold winter temperatures, but their foliage and flowers might not. This isn’t usually too much of a problem, as the plants bloom in the spring and early summer, fading and dying back naturally in high summertime. It is because of this, bleeding heart winter care technically starts months before the first fall frost. When the flowers of your bleeding heart plant fade, cut back their stems to an inch or two (2.5-5 cm.) above ground. Keep watering the foliage. Eventually, the foliage will die back too. This might happen naturally in the summer, or it might happen with the first frost, depending upon how short your summers are. In any event, when this happens, cut the entire plant down to an inch or two (2.5-5 cm.) above the ground. Even though the foliage is gone, the underground rhizomes of a bleeding heart plant are alive and well in the winter – they’re just dormant. Bleeding heart winter protection is all about keeping those rhizomatous roots alive. When the cold temperatures of autumn start to set in, cover the stumps of your plant stems with a thick layer of mulch that spreads out to cover the area. This will help insulate the roots and make winterizing a bleeding heart plant much easier. This is pretty much all that is required to overwinter a bleeding heart. In late winter or early spring, the plant should start putting up new shoots again.

Bleeding heart plants are beautiful perennials that produce very distinctive heart-shaped flowers. They are a great and colorful way to add some Old World charm and color to your spring garden. How do you keep one in check though? Does it need regular pruning, or can it be allowed to grow on its own? Keep reading to learn more about how and when to prune bleeding hearts.

When to Prune Bleeding Hearts

Bleeding heart plants are perennials. While their foliage dies back with the frost, their rhizomatous roots survive through the winter and put up new growth in the spring. It is because of this yearly dieback, pruning a bleeding heart to keep it in check or to form a particular shape is not necessary. However, the plants will die back naturally each year before the frost, and it’s important to cut back the dying foliage at the right time to keep the plant as healthy as possible.

Choose one of these three pruners to prune your Bleeding Heart plant:

How to Prune a Bleeding Heart Plant

Deadheading is an important part of bleeding heart pruning. When your plant is blooming, check it every few days and remove individual spent flowers by pinching them off with your fingers. When an entire stem of flowers has passed, cut it off with pruning shears just a few inches (8 cm.) above the ground. This will encourage the plant to devote energy to blooming rather than seed production. Even after all the flowers have passed, the plant itself will remain green for some time. Don’t cut it back yet! The plant needs the energy it will gather through its leaves to store in its roots for next year’s growth. If you cut it back while it’s still green, it will come back much smaller next spring. Cutting back bleeding heart plants should only be done after the foliage naturally fades, which should happen in early to midsummer as temperatures begin to rise. Cut all of the foliage down to a few inches (8 cm.) above the ground at this point.

Few plants match the old-fashioned charm and romantic blossoms of bleeding hearts. These whimsical plants appear during spring in shady to partially sunny locations. As perennials they come back year after year but how to propagate bleeding heart plants? Bleeding heart propagation is easy through seed, cuttings, or division. Cuttings and division will give plants truer to the parent plant and a quicker bloom time. These are simple ways to grow more bleeding hearts to share with friends and family.

When to Propagate a Bleeding Heart

With its lacy, fern-like foliage and pillowy, heart-shaped flowers, bleeding heart is one of the champions of the low light landscape. The plants will bloom for years but often flowers slow down as the plant gets older. This is when to propagate a bleeding heart by division. Such activity will rejuvenate the plant while also allowing you to grow more. Division can occur either in fall or in early spring. If dividing in fall, wait until the foliage has died back. You may also choose to propagate the plants with seed but results will be variable and the process much slower. The best time to plant seeds is in late summer. The seeds need a period of cold exposure to break dormancy and release the embryo. You may also choose to plant the seeds in pots and take them indoors, but they will still need several weeks in the freezer before they will germinate. Some species of bleeding heart will self-sow, so be on the lookout under the parent plant for babies. These can be transplanted once they have two sets of true leaves into a prepared garden bed in partial to full shade. Cuttings should be taken while the plant is actively growing but after it has flowered.

Propagating Bleeding Hearts from Seed

Bleeding heart propagation from seed is fairly straightforward. Lightly pre-moisten the soil in which the seeds will grow. A good potting mixture with plenty of peat and vermiculite will be perfect. You may also sow directly into a prepared garden bed. Plant seeds half as deep as the seed's width. Cover with soil. For indoor seeds in pots, wrap the pots in plastic wrap and put the containers in the freezer for up to 6 weeks, then place containers in a warm location to germinate. Germination usually takes place in a month. Outdoor seeds will not germinate until soil and ambient temperatures warm in spring. Transplant seedlings gently and keep moderately moist until they establish.

How to Propagate Bleeding Heart Plants with Cuttings or Division

Another method of propagating bleeding hearts is through vegetative means. Bleeding hearts react well to division and, in fact, grow much better if divided every 5 years or so. Dig up the plant carefully and use a sharp, clean soil saw to cut the plant in half or thirds. Each portion should be planted in loose soil or in containers and kept moderately moist. For cuttings, you may take a portion of a root. Before taking root cuttings, water the plant thoroughly the night before. Excavate carefully to find a good, healthy thick root. Rinse the root clean and look for growth nodes. Take a section of the root that includes at least two nodes. Lay the cutting on pre-moistened horticultural sand and cover it with an inch (2.5 cm.) more of the material. Keep the cutting moist in low light. Usually, in 4 to 6 weeks you can expect some sprouting.

Bleeding heart (Dicentra spp.) is an old-fashioned plant with heart-shaped blooms that dangle gracefully from leafless, drooping stems. Bleeding heart, which grows in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, is a wonderful choice for a semi-shady spot in your garden. Although bleeding heart is a woodland plant, growing bleeding heart in a container is definitely possible. In fact, container-grown bleeding heart will thrive as long as you provide the proper growing conditions.

How to Grow Bleeding Heart in a Pot

A large container is best for bleeding heart container growing, as bleeding heart is a relatively large plant at maturity. If you’re short on space, consider a smaller species such as Dicentra formosa, which tops out at 6 to 20 inches (15-51 cm.). Fill the container with a rich, well-drained, lightweight potting mix that mimics the plant’s natural environment. A compost or peat-based commercial mix works well but add perlite or sand to ensure the mix drains well. Mix a balanced, time-released granular fertilizer into the potting mix at planting time. Read the label carefully to determine the optimum amount for the plant and container size.

Bleeding Heart Container Care

Growing bleeding heart in a container does require some upkeep in order to keep the plant looking its best in a potted environment. Place the container where the bleeding heart plant is exposed to light shade or dappled or partial sunlight. Water bleeding heart regularly but allow the surface of the potting mix to dry slightly between waterings. Bleeding heart requires moist, well-drained soil and may rot if conditions are too soggy. Remember that container-grown bleeding heart dries out faster than one planted in the ground. Fertilize bleeding heart monthly using a diluted water-soluble fertilizer or apply a controlled release fertilizer according to the schedule indicated on the container. Read the label carefully and avoid overfeeding. As a general rule, too little fertilizer is better than too much. Don’t bother deadheading container-grown bleeding heart plants. Since the plant blooms only once, no deadheading is needed. Trim the plant lightly when the plant enters dormancy – when the leaves turn yellow and flowering ends – usually in late spring or early summer.

Bleeding heart is a favorite plant in partially shaded to shady cottage gardens throughout North America and Europe. Also known as lady-in-the-bath or lyreflower, bleeding heart is one of those beloved garden plants that gardeners can share. Like hosta or daylily, bleeding heart plants can easily be divided and transplanted throughout the garden or shared with friends. Just a small tuber of a bleeding heart can eventually become a beautiful specimen plant. If you happen to be a lucky recipient of a piece of a friend’s bleeding heart, you may question how to plant a bleeding heart rhizome. Continue reading to learn about growing bleeding hearts from tubers.

Bleeding Heart Rhizome Planting

Bleeding heart plants are usually sold as growing container perennials, bare root plants, or in packages as tubers. As growing container plants, they are already leafed out, may be flowering, and you can plant them in the garden whenever you purchase them. Bare root bleeding heart and bleeding heart tubers are the dormant roots of the plant. They both need to be planted at specific times in order to eventually leaf out and bloom. You may wonder which is better to plant, bleeding heart tubers vs. bare root bleeding heart. Both have their pros and cons. Bleeding heart bare root plants should only be planted in spring and require special planting. Bleeding heart tubers can be planted in fall or spring. In the proper site, with proper spacing, planting bleeding heart tubers is as easy as digging a hole an inch or two (2.5-5 cm.) deep, placing the tuber inside, and covering with soil. However, bleeding heart tubers generally take longer to establish and flower than bare root bleeding hearts.

How to Grow Bleeding Heart Tubers

When bleeding heart plants are divided in fall or spring, sections of their rhizomes can be used to grow new plants. Garden centers and big box stores also sell packages of bleeding heart tubers in spring and fall. Like all bleeding heart plants, these tubers will need to be planted in a partially shaded location with rich, well-draining soil. Bleeding heart plants cannot tolerate heavy clay, or other poorly draining soil, and their young tubers will quickly rot in these sites. Amend the soil with organic material if necessary. When you purchase or are given bleeding heart tubers, plant only the pieces that are fleshy; dried up brittle pieces will most likely not grow. Each piece that is planted should have one or two eyes, which will be planted facing upward. Plant tubers about 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) deep, and about 24 to 36 inches (61-91 cm.) apart. Water the plants well after planting and be sure to mark the site so they don’t accidentally get dug up or pulled out as weeds.

Bleeding heart is a classic shade plant that produces gorgeous flowers, and it can be propagated in several ways. Growing bleeding heart from seed is one way to do it, and although it takes more time and patience, you may find that starting with seeds is a rewarding process.

Can You Grow Bleeding Heart from Seeds?

There are several ways to propagate bleeding heart, including division, cuttings, separation, and seeds. Bleeding heart is not considered invasive because, although it is not native to North America, it does not self-seed very vigorously. Propagating or starting by seed can be done successfully, though, and may be the best choice because bleeding heart does not transplant well. It takes time for the seeds to germinate, but once they do, they will grow well in the right conditions.

When to Sow Bleeding Heart Seeds

It is best to sow bleeding heart seeds soon after harvesting them from the plant, which is done in late summer. This gives the seeds plenty of time to germinate and provides the cold period they need for several weeks. If you cannot sow your seeds right away, you can germinate them indoors and sow in spring. To do this, store the seeds in the freezer for several weeks for the cold period and then allow them several weeks to germinate in a moist medium at temperatures around 60 degrees F. (16 C.).

How to Grow Bleeding Heart from Seed

You can store and germinate your bleeding heart seeds as described above, but it is best if you can harvest and then sow the seeds right away in late summer or early fall. When planting bleeding heart seeds, make sure you find a spot in a partially shady location with well-draining soil. This plant does not grow well in soggy soil. Plant the seeds about a half inch (1 cm.) in the soil and keep the area moist until the first frost arrives. From that point on you need only wait on your seeds to develop and sprout. Be aware that you may not see blooms on your plant for the first couple years. Bleeding heart is a great choice for wooded gardens that have a lot of shade. Unfortunately, these pretty bushes do not always transplant well, but if you have the patience for it, you can successfully grow them from seeds.

Bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis) is a spring-blooming perennial with lacy foliage and heart-shaped blooms on graceful, drooping stems. A tough plant that grows in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, bleeding heart thrives in semi-shady spots in your garden. Growing bleeding heart from cuttings is a surprisingly easy and effective method of propagating new bleeding heart plants for your own garden, or for sharing with friends. If you would enjoy having more of this gorgeous plant, read on to learn about bleeding heart cutting propagation.

How to Grow Bleeding Heart from Cuttings

The most effective way to root a bleeding heart cutting is to take softwood cuttings – new growth that is still somewhat pliable and doesn’t snap when you bend the stems. Immediately after blooming is a perfect opportunity for taking cuttings from a bleeding heart. The best time for taking cuttings from a bleeding heart is early morning, when the plant is well-hydrated. Here are simple steps on growing bleeding heart from cuttings:

• Select a small, sterile pot with a drainage hole in the bottom. Fill the container with a well-drained potting mixture such as peat-based potting mix and sand or perlite. Water the mixture well, then allow it to drain until it’s moist but not soggy.
• Take 3 to 5 inch cuttings (8-13 cm.) from a healthy bleeding heart plant. Strip the leaves from the bottom half of the stem.
• Use a pencil or similar tool to poke a planting hole in the moist potting mix. Dip the bottom of the stem in powdered rooting hormone (This step is optional but may speed rooting) and insert the stem into the hole, then firm the potting mix gently around the stem to remove any air pockets. Note: It’s fine to plant more than one stem in a pot but be sure the leaves don’t touch.
• Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag to create a warm, humid, greenhouse-like environment. You may need to use plastic straws or bent wire hangers to prevent the plastic from touching the cuttings.
• Place the pot in indirect sunlight. Avoid windowsills, as cuttings are likely to scorch in direct sunlight. Optimum temperatures for successful bleeding heart propagation is 65 to 75 degrees F. (18-24 C.). Be sure the temperature doesn’t drop below 55 or 60 degrees F. (13-16 C.) at night.
• Check the cuttings daily and water gently if the potting mix is dry. (This probably won’t happen for at least a couple of weeks if the pot is in plastic.) Poke a few small ventilation holes in the plastic. Open the top of the bag slightly if moisture drips down the inside of the bag, as the cuttings may rot if conditions are too moist.
• Remove the plastic when you notice new growth, which indicates the cutting has rooted. Rooting generally takes about 10 to 21 days or more, depending on temperature. Transplant the newly rooted bleeding heart plants into individual containers. Keep the mixture slightly moist.
• Move the bleeding heart plants outdoors once they’re rooted well and new growth is noticeable. Be sure to harden the plants in a protected spot for a few days before moving it to their permanent homes in the garden.

You may have heard of bleeding heart vine and bleeding heart bush and assumed they were two versions of the same plant. But that isn’t true. These similar names were given to very different bleeding heart plants. If you want to know the ins and outs of bleeding heart bush vs. vine, read on. We’ll explain the difference between a bleeding heart bush and vine.

Are All Bleeding Hearts the Same?

The short answer is no. If you expect different bleeding heart plants to be similar, think again. In fact, bleeding heart vine and bleeding heart bush belong to different families. One difference between a bleeding heart bush and vine is that each as its own scientific name. Bleeding heart bush is called Dicentra spectablis and is a member of the Fumariaceae family. Bleeding heart vine is Clerodendron thomsoniae and is in the Verbenaceae family.

Bleeding Heart Bush vs. Vine

There is a big difference between a bleeding heart bush and vine. Let’s look at the bleeding heart bush vs. vine debate, starting with the vine. Bleeding heart vine is a slender twining vine, native to Africa. The vine is attractive to gardeners because of the clusters of bright red flowers that grow along the vine stems. The flowers initially appear to be white because of the white bracts. However, in time the crimson blossoms emerge, looking like drops of blood dripping from the heart-shaped calyx. That’s where the vine gets the common name bleeding heart vine. Since bleeding heart vine is native to tropical Africa, it is no surprise that the plant is not very cold hardy. The roots are hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 9, but the require protection from freezing. The bleeding heart bush is an herbaceous perennial. It can grow to 4 feet (1.2 m.) tall and 2 feet (60 cm.) wide and bears heart-shaped flowers. The outer petals of these flowers are bright reddish-pink, and form the shape of a valentine. The inner petals are white. Bleeding heart bush flowers in spring. They grow best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9.

An old-fashioned favorite of many gardeners, the bleeding heart is a reliable, easy-to-grow perennial for zones 3 through 9. Native to Japan, bleeding heart has gone in and out of popularity for hundreds of years throughout Asia, Europe, and America. With newer flower colors, foliage textures, and reblooming varieties widely available, it is once again a popular addition to partially shaded gardens. Thanks to the World Wide Web, getting your hands on the latest trending variety of bleeding heart is easier than ever. However, gardeners who are used to purchasing growing plants at nurseries or garden centers might get quite a shock when the bleeding heart plant they ordered online arrives as a bare root plant. Continue reading to learn how to plant a bare root bleeding heart.

Dormant Bleeding Heart Plants

Online nurseries and mail order catalogs usually sell bare root bleeding heart plants. While bleeding hearts purchased as container grown plants can be planted almost anytime, bare root bleeding hearts should only be planted in springtime. Ideally, you'll order from a reputable online nursery or mail order catalog, which will only have these plants available for sale during the appropriate time to plant them. However, if you do receive your bare root bleeding heart plants too early to plant them, you can keep them cool and moist in the refrigerator for a few weeks until you are able to. Another option would be to plant them in pots and transplant them into the garden later.

How to Plant a Bare Root Bleeding Heart

Bleeding heart grows best in a location with light shade. They do well in any average garden soil, though they prefer it to be slightly acidic. They cannot tolerate heavy clay or soggy soil, and they are susceptible to root and crown rots in these conditions. Keep these things in mind as you select a site to plant bleeding heart with bare roots. Unlike container bleeding hearts, they will be directly and immediately exposed to whatever soil you place them in and more susceptible to rots. Before planting bare root bleeding heart, soak them in water for an hour to rehydrate them, but do not let them soak any longer than four hours. In the meantime, loosen up the soil in the planting site at least a foot (31 cm.) deep and wide. Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the bare root plant. This won't need to be very deep. When you plant a bleeding heart with bare roots, the plant crown should stick slightly above the soil level and the roots should be spread out. The best way to accomplish this is to create a cone or mound of soil in the center of the hole you've dug. Place the bare root plant crown on the top of the mound so that its plant crown will stick out slightly above the soil. Then spread the roots so that they spread over and down the mound. Slowly refill the hole with soil, holding the bare root plant in place and lightly tamping down the soil as you refill it to prevent air bubbles. Give it some water and soon enough you should begin to notice new growth. That’s all there is to bare root planting of bleeding heart.

Gardening by USDA zone is important because it allows you to choose plants appropriate for your area’s climate. Zone 8 is one of the warmer zones, so there are plenty of options for plants that will not just survive but thrive in your garden. Zone 8 plants are diverse and include trees, shrubs, perennials, and annual flowers.

Gardening in zone 8 gives you plenty of plant options, but there are still some limitations. It’s important to understand the USDA planting zone map and what it tells you about zone 8, so you can garden successfully.

USDA zones are defined by average annual extreme minimum winter temperatures, or in other words, how cold it can possibly get in winter. Plants that can survive these minimums are suitable to grow in the zone. Zone 8 extreme winter minimums range from 10 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-12.2 to -6.7 Celsius). This is a region known for its hot summers and mild winters, and there are plenty of hardy zone 8 plants to choose from.

Zone 8 includes large areas of southern and southeastern states, like North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Arkansas, Louisiana, and Texas. Other states that have smaller pockets of zone 8 include Oklahoma, New Mexico, Arizona, Utah, Nevada, California, Oregon, Washington, Alaska, and Hawaii.

Zone 8 Perennials

• Creeping Thyme. Creeping thyme (Thymus spp.) is a low-growing type of thyme that is suitable for zone 8 and can be used as an attractive ground cover. Depending on the type, creeping thyme will grow between 2 and 6 inches (5 and 15 cm) tall. It grows best in full sun and will reward you with abundant small flowers in shades of pink, purple, or white. Keep the soil moist during hot weather or drought. Find creeping thyme seeds at Amazon.
• Coneflower. Purple coneflower is the classic type, but you can now find all kinds of Echinacea species in different colors and petal types. Native coneflowers grow in zones 4 through 8 and attract birds and pollinators to the garden. These zone 8 perennials tolerate poor soil and are easy to grow in partial shade. They also tolerate drought well but will bloom more consistently if the soil stays moist. Heirloom purple coneflower seeds can be found at Amazon.
• Bleeding Heart. For shady areas of the garden, consider planting bleeding hearts (Lamprocapnos spectabilis). While it can tolerate some sun in warmer regions, this is a true shade plant for zone 8. Bleeding heart is known for its unique flowers in red, pink, or white, which are shaped like hearts and hang from arching branches. The soil for bleeding hearts should be rich and moist, and must drain well. Bleeding heart bare roots can be purchased from the Home Depot.

Annual Plants for Zone 8

• Marigolds. It’s hard to beat the cheerful, colorful blooms of all types of marigolds (Tagetes spp.). These are true annuals wherever they are grown, completing a complete life cycle in one growing season. The sizes of marigolds vary depending on type, and the colors can be all shades of red, yellow, and orange. Grow marigolds in full sun for the best blooms. They are not picky about soil type, but they should be watered as it dries out. Farmer's Almanac marigold seeds can be found at Amazon.
• Zinnias. Zinnia elegans is a classic summer annual. Zinnias grow fast and bloom readily throughout summer and fall, even with little care or maintenance. They’re even easy to start from seed. These days, you can find many varieties of zinnias in all kinds of colors, even green. Grow these zone 8 annuals in full sun in rich soil that drains well. Zinnias tolerate drought, but they’ll benefit from watering during very dry conditions. Find lots of gorgeous zinnia seeds from Burpee.
• Ornamental Peppers. Capsicum annuum, ornamental peppers, are a fun alternative to annual flowers. The blooms open in summer, but the real show is the abundance of small, colorful peppers that develop after the flowers. Peppers grow best in full sun and rich soil that drains well. Water your peppers regularly and don’t let the soil dry out or get soggy. Don’t plant them outside until all risk of frost has passed. Find hot Thai ornamental pepper seeds from True Leaf Market.

Trees for Zone 8

• Eastern Redbud. Cercis canadensis is a beautiful native tree suited to zone 8 yards and gardens. It’s small, only growing to about 30 feet (9 m) tall and wide. It blooms with pink or white flowers in early spring before the leaves emerge. Redbud trees grow best in full sun and can tolerate even poor soils. They do need watering during droughts. Find eastern redbud trees for sale at Fast Growing Trees.
• Southern Magnolia. Another flowering tree to consider for your zone 8 garden is the classic southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora). This type of magnolia can grow up to 80 feet (24 m) tall and blooms in spring and summer with creamy, pink-touched white flowers. Southern magnolias prefer moist, well-drained, and fertile soils. They don’t tolerate drought well until they are established, so water young trees as needed. Find a southern magnolia tree for sale from Nature Hills Nursery.
• Live Oak. If you garden in zone 8, you are lucky enough to be just within the right range for growing this majestic southern tree. Quercus virginiana is known for its large spread (up to 100 feet or 30 m wide) and low, horizontal branches, perfect for climbing. Live oaks are also very long-lived. They grow best in medium to moist soil and thrive in humid conditions. Purchase a live oak tree from Fast Growing Trees.

Shrubs for Zone 8

• Carolina Allspice. Calycanthus floridus is a great option for a native shrub in zone 8. Also called sweet shrub, it can grow up to 9 feet (2.7 m) tall and blooms in spring with non-showy but very fragrant flowers. Grow Carolina allspice in sun or partial shade and water only during drought. This shrub can be trained into a hedge and will withstand strong winds. Carolina allspice shrubs can be purchased from Native Wildflowers Nursery.
• Camellia. Camellia (Camellia spp.) is not native to North America, but it’s a worthy choice for zone 8 gardens. This broadleaf evergreen blooms in late fall, winter, and early spring with stunning flowers in shades of pink, red, lavender, yellow, or white. Camellia shrubs grow up to 12 feet (3.7 m) tall but grow slowly and are long-lived. They grow best in moist, rich soil with some shade. Give them plenty of space to grow into their full size. Fast Growing Trees has a wonderful selection of camellia shrubs in shades of pink, white, and red.
• Abelia. All varieties of abelia (Abelia spp.) are easy to grow and can be as tall as ten feet (3 m). You can find evergreen and deciduous types. Abelia is notable for its colorful foliage that changes throughout the seasons and the abundance of flowers that bloom throughout the growing season. Abelia shrubs grow best in moist soil that drains well and is fertile. They can grow in full sun or partial shade. Full sun allows for the most vibrant colors and abundant blooms. 'Kaleidoscope' abelia from Fast Growing Trees makes an excellent addition to Zone 8 gardens.

Zone 8 Edible Gardens

If you live in Zone 8, your region has mild winters with the low temperatures between 10 and 20 degrees F. (10 and -6 C.). Most Zone 8 areas have temperate summer climates with cooler nights and a long growing season. This combination allows for lovely flowers and thriving vegetable plots.

Zone 8 Vegetables

When you are growing vegetable gardens in Zone 8, you can plant most of the familiar vegetables, sometimes even twice a year. In this zone, you can put in your vegetable seeds early enough to contemplate successive plantings. Try this with cool-season vegetables like carrots, peas, celery, and broccoli.

Cool season vegetables grow in temperatures 15 degrees cooler than warm season veggies. Salad greens and green leafy vegetables, like collards and spinach, are also cool-season vegetables and will do well as Zone 8 plants. Sow these seeds early – in early spring or even late winter – for good eating in early summer. Sow again in early fall for a winter harvest.

Zone 8 Perennial Edibles

You can grow herbaceous perennial edibles that come back year after year like:

• Artichokes
• Asparagus
• Cardoon
• Prickly pear cactus
• Rhubarb
• Strawberries

Zone 8 Backyard Orchard Trees

When you are growing plants in Zone 8, think fruit trees and brambles. So many types of fruit trees and shrubs make good choices. You can grow backyard orchard favorites like:

• Apple
• Pear
• Apricot
• Fig
• Cherry
• Citrus trees
• Nut trees

Other Zone 8 Edible Plants

If you want something different, branch out with persimmons, pineapple guava, or pomegranates. Almost all herbs are happy in Zone 8. Try planting:

• Chives
• Sorrel
• Thyme
• Marjoram
• Oregano
• Rosemary
• Sage

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Bleeding heart is one of the most charming wildflowers in North America. These emotive flowers are found in shady meadows and open forest edges. They bloom in spring and can continue to flower in summer if temperatures are cool and they're in a shady location. However, all good things must come to an end, and hot weather signals the time for the plant to cease flowering and go into dormancy. What other reasons might there be for a non-flowering bleeding heart? Read on to learn more.

Reasons for No Blooms on Bleeding Heart Plants

Bleeding heart was introduced as an ornamental to the West in the mid 1800’s. It became a very popular landscape plant and is still considered a wonderful addition to the woodland perennial garden. These attractive plants enter dormancy when hot temperatures arrive. This is a natural part of the plant’s life cycle, but you can learn how to get a bleeding heart to bloom in the warm season with a little trickery (as explained further on). Some cultural problems could also be the reason a bleeding heart isn’t blooming or it might be a tiny invasion of insects or disease.

Cultural Problems

Bleeding heart plants take a season or two to establish as a rule, and you will find a bleeding heart plant not flowering in the first season. Over time, the plant will get larger and require division for better displays and more flowers. If your bleeding heart isn’t blooming, it might need division or it might simply be too young. Divide the roots in early spring or in fall after the foliage has died back. Heavy soil and overly moist locations can also cause diminished flowering. Bleeding hearts favor moist, rich soil but cannot tolerate boggy conditions. Plants growing in full sun will also struggle to bloom long. Plant the ornamental in a shady to dappled location for better displays.

Bugs, Disease and a Non-Flowering Bleeding Heart

Insects and disease aren’t usually the reason for no blooms on bleeding heart, but they can contribute to diminished plant health and reduced vigor. These conditions may produce a reduced crop of flowers. Aphids are the biggest pest of bleeding heart. Their sucking activity can affect the leaves and stems of the plant and, over time, may pose a problem to flowers. Look for tarry honeydew and tiny moving bumps as indicators of an insect infestation. Leaf spot and Fusarium wilt are two common diseases of bleeding heart. These affect the leaves and should not be a cause for a bleeding heart plant not flowering unless the disease has gotten so out of hand that the plant is dying.

How to Get a Bleeding Heart to Bloom

Bleeding heart plants enliven the landscape in spring and then die back as the season progresses. You can either plant late season bloomers in the area to cover their dormancy or try a little trick. As soon as the blooms slow down and the foliage begins to yellow, cut the stems back to within one inch of the ground. This may stimulate the plant into forcing a second bloom, especially if the plant is sited in ideal conditions. Other tips include regular feeding starting in early spring with ¼ cup (59 ml.) of a 5-10-5 food, and continuing administering this every six weeks. Bleeding hearts are heavy feeders and they like uniform moisture. Cover around the root zone with mulch to conserve water and enhance soil nutrition. If all else fails, there are several cultivars of bleeding heart which have been bred for extended season blooming.

Most of us would recognize a bleeding heart plant at first sight, with its pillowy heart-shaped flowers and delicate foliage. Bleeding hearts can be found growing wild around North America and are common old-fashioned garden choices too. These perennials tend to die back when temperatures get too hot, signaling it is time for dormancy. Yellowing bleeding heart plants in mid-summer are part of the life cycle and completely normal. A bleeding heart with yellow leaves at any other time of the year may be an indication of cultural or other issues. Keep reading to find out why your bleeding heart has yellow leaves.

Naturally Yellowing Bleeding Hearts

Bleeding hearts may be one of the first flowers peeking out of your woodland garden. The plant is found wild in forest edges, dappled glades and shady meadows with organic rich soil and consistent moisture. Bleeding heart plants can perform well in full sun locations too, but they will die back quickly when summer temperatures arrive. Those that are located in shadier spaces hold onto their green foliage a bit longer, but even these will enter a dormant period called senescence. This is a normal process for the plant, as leaves fade and die back. Yellowing bleeding heart plants in summer signal the end of the growing period for this cool season plant. Hot temperatures provide the cues that it is time to rest until favorable conditions arrive again. If your bleeding heart plant has yellowing leaves in early to mid-summer, it is likely just the natural progression of the plant’s life cycle.

Other Reasons for Bleeding Heart Leaves Turning Yellow

Bleeding heart plants are found in United States Department of Agriculture zones 2 to 9. This wide range means the plants are quite hardy and adaptable. While it is true the plants enter senescence in mid-summer, when you notice bleeding heart leaves turning yellow, the plant may have foliage problems due to many other factors. Overwatering may be one cause of a bleeding heart with yellow leaves, fungal disease and insect pests are another.

Insufficient Watering

Overwatering is a common cause of plant leaves fading and yellowing. The bleeding heart enjoys moist soil but cannot tolerate a boggy area. If soil is not well draining, the plant’s roots are immersed in too much water and fungal diseases and damping off can ensue. Limp, fading leaves may appear to be a sign of dryness but, in fact, can be caused by excess moisture. Treating yellow bleeding heart plants in moist areas starts with checking soil conditions and then amending drainage with sand or other grit. Alternatively, move the plant to a more favorable situation. Underwatering is also a reason for fading leaves. Keep the plant moderately moist but not soggy.

Lighting and Soil

Another reason a bleeding heart plant has yellow leaves might be lighting. Although, it is natural for the plant to die back when warm temperatures arrive, in some zones, plants in full sun will die back in spring in response to too much heat and light. Try moving the plant in fall or early spring to a dappled lighting situation and see if that helps. Soil pH is another potential cause of yellowing leaves. Bleeding heart plants prefer acidic soil. Plants growing in alkaline areas will benefit from the addition of sulfur or peat moss. It is preferable to amend soil six months before planting in the area.

Bugs and Disease

One of the more common insect pests is the aphid. These sucking insects drink sap from a plant, sucking its life giving juices and diminishing the plant’s stores of energy. Over time, leaves may curl and become speckled and, in severe cases, the stems will become limp and discolored. Use forceful sprays of water daily for treating yellow bleeding heart plants plagued by aphids. In extreme cases, use a horticultural soap to combat the pests. Fusarium wilt and stem rot are but two of the common diseases of bleeding heart plants. Fusarium wilt causes the lower leaves to yellow initially, while stem rot will produce a whitish, slimy coating over all parts of the plant with wilted, discolored foliage. In both cases, the plants should be removed and discarded. Verticillium wilt also causes yellowed foliage but it initiates with wilted leaves. Remove the plant and all its roots and destroy. Plants in well-drained soil are less plagued by these diseases but be cautious where you acquire your plants. These diseases can live in contaminated soil and plant matter.

Variety

Finally, check the variety. Dicentra spectabilis ‘Gold Heart’ is a specific type of bleeding heart that naturally produces the same heart-shaped blooms as others but its foliage is yellow rather than the typical green.

Also known as glorybower or tropical bleeding heart, Clerodendrum bleeding heart (Clerodendrum thomsoniae) is a sub-tropical vine that wraps its tendrils around a trellis or other support. Gardeners appreciate the plant for its shiny green foliage and dazzling crimson and white blooms.

Bleeding Heart Information

Clerodendrum bleeding heart is native to western Africa. It is not related to the Dicentra bleeding heart, a perennial with dainty pink or lavender and white blooms. Although some types of Clerodendrum are extremely invasive, Clerodendrum bleeding heart is a well-behaved, non-aggressive plant that reaches lengths of about 15 feet (4.5 m.) at maturity. You can train Clerodendrum bleeding heart vines to twine around a trellis or other support, or you can let the vines sprawl freely over the ground.

Growing Clerodendrum Bleeding Heart

Clerodendrum bleeding heart is suitable for growing in USDA zones 9 and above and is damaged in temperatures below 45 degrees F. (7 C.). However, it often regrows from the roots in spring. In cooler climates, it is commonly grown as a houseplant. Clerodendrum bleeding heart performs best in partial shade or dappled sunlight, but it may tolerate full sunlight with plenty of moisture. The plant prefers rich, fertile, well-drained soil.

Clerodendrum Bleeding Heart Care

Water the plant frequently during dry weather; the plant requires consistently moist, but not soggy soil. Clerodendrum bleeding heart needs frequent fertilization to supply the nutrients required to produce blooms. Feed the plant a slow-release fertilizer every two months during the blooming season, or use a water-soluble fertilizer every month. Although Clerodendrum bleeding heart is relatively pest-resistant, it is susceptible to damage by mealybugs and spider mites. Insecticidal soap spray is generally sufficient to keep the pests in check. Reapply the spray every seven to ten days, or until the insects are eliminated.

Bleeding Heart Vine Pruning

Prune Clerodendrum bleeding heart vine by removing wayward growth and winter damage before new growth appears in spring. Otherwise, you can trim the plant lightly as needed throughout the growing season.

Bleeding heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis, formerly Dicentra spectabilis) is a truly unique plant. With rows and rows of heart-shaped flowers that split open to reveal a white teardrop, it's a specimen that fits its name perfectly. Naturally growing on forest floors, it's used to life under the tree canopy and therefore a favorite in shade gardens.

It's an early spring bloomer, speckling the darkest parts of the landscape with pink and white while other plants are just starting to wake up. After blooming it fades into the background, dying back completely just as summer comes into full swing, and waiting for next year's show-stopping entrance.

Let's dive into everything there is to know about growing this signature flower.

Bleeding Heart Quick Facts

Planting Bleeding Hearts

Bleeding Heart Soil Requirements

Bleeding hearts are woodland plants, meaning they thrive in rich, organic soil that would normally be found on the forest floor. Soil should be neutral to slightly acidic (6.0–7.0) and well draining.

Bleeding Heart Light Requirements

In keeping with mimicking the forest floor, it's best to grow bleeding hearts in partial shade to full shade. The cooler your climate is, the more direct sun you can get away with, but in the south afternoon shade is a must if you want to keep your foliage from burning.

Shop Bleeding Heart Plants

Step-by-Step Planting Guide

If you're planting a bleeding heart, odds are it's either a tuber, a bare root plant, or it's growing in a pot. The steps for planting a container-grown and a bare root bleeding heart plant are more or less the same.

1. Dig a hole in a spot with partial to full shade.
2. Mix in a generous amount of compost.
3. Place the plant in the hole.
   1. For bare root bleeding hearts, the roots should point down and the crown should sit about an inch above the soil line.
   2. For bleeding heart tubers, the roots should point down and the "eye" or growing node should point up, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) below the soil line.
   3. For container plants, the soil line should be level with the top of the root ball.
4. Fill in the hole and pat the soil down gently.
5. Water thoroughly.

Transplanting Bleeding Hearts

You should transplant a bleeding heart when it's dormant, either in the spring or the fall. It needs to be done delicately, because the roots are very fleshy and fragile. Dig a hole in the new location first, then gently lift the root ball and transfer it to its new home. Be sure the crown is at the soil line or even an inch above – covering it at all can lead to crown rot and death. Backfill the hole and water deeply.

How to Care for Bleeding Hearts

Watering Bleeding Hearts

Bleeding heart plants like soil that's kept consistently moist but not soggy. Standing water is dangerous, because in the shade it has a tendency to stick around and can lead to root rot. You should water a bleeding heart about 1 inch (2.5 cm) per week during the growing season. Once it goes dormant in mid-summer, you can cut back.

Bleeding Heart Fertilizer

Bleeding hearts grow well in rich soil with lots of organic matter, like you'd find on the forest floor. That being said, they aren’t heavy feeders except during their short blooming period. All they need is a thin layer of compost or a balanced, slow-release fertilizer, applied in early spring as new growth emerges.

Mulching Bleeding Hearts

Bleeding hearts do well under a 2-inch layer of organic mulch, like shredded bark or leaf mold. This mimics a forest floor, keeping the soil cool and retaining moisture. Leave an exposed ring around the stems to prevent rot.

Pruning Bleeding Hearts

Pruning bleeding hearts correctly is all about timing. After the flowers fade, you may be tempted to cut the leaves back. Don't! They're still photosynthesizing, and need to keep doing so to store energy for next year's blooms.

In mid-to-late summer, the leaves will naturally turn yellow and wither. This is the sign that the plant is entering its dormant phase and is done storing up energy. Once the leaves are brown and brittle, you can cut the stems down to about 1–2 inches above the soil line.

Bleeding Heart Care Calendar

How to Propagate Bleeding Hearts

The easiest way to propagate bleeding hearts is by division, which should be done either in early spring, just as new growth starts, or in late fall when the plant is dormant. Dig up the root clump and use a sharp, clean knife to divide the fleshy roots, ensuring each section has at least one "eye" or growing point. Replant each new clump separately and water frequently until it's established.

You can also grow bleeding hearts from seed, though it'll probably be years before you have a large flowering plant. Harvest seed pods after they turn brown. They need a period of cold in order to germinate, so it's best to plant them outdoors in autumn – they'll stratify naturally over winter and come up in spring.

Bleeding Heart Winter Care

By the time winter rolls around, a bleeding heart plant should be completely dormant. It's actually incredibly winter hardy, and can survive in climates as cold as USDA zone 3. There's not much you need to do to winterize a bleeding heart, though it's good practice to cut the stems down to just above the ground and apply a heavy layer of mulch.

Common Bleeding Heart Problems

The problems that befall bleeding heart plants are the ones that usually strike in shady spots. The most common bleeding heart diseases are powdery mildew and fungal leaf spot. Common bleeding heart pests include aphids, slugs, and snails. A lot can be done to prevent all of these problems by ensuring good air flow and avoiding overcrowding.

Growing Bleeding Hearts in Containers

It's possible to grow bleeding hearts in containers, although a few things have to be taken into consideration. The main one is size: bleeding hearts can grow very large, both above and below ground. They have big, fleshy roots that need space to thrive, so you should choose as big a container as possible. The container also has to have excellent drainage, to avoid root rot. Be sure to place your container in a spot that gets partial to full shade, especially in the afternoon.

Growing Bleeding Hearts Indoors

You can grow a bleeding heart as a houseplant. You just have to be prepared for it to disappear for part of the year. In summer, your plant will start to wither and dry out. It's not dying – it's just going dormant. Cut back the foliage once it's completely browned, and store the pot in a cool place. When winter comes, move it outdoors. It needs a period of cold to ensure the following spring's blooms. In early spring, move the pot back inside, and you'll be rewarded with a flush of new growth and beautiful flowers.