There is little doubt that boxwoods are among the most versatile plants for the home landscape. From hedges to containers, planting boxwood shrubs is a sure way in which to add lush, evergreen foliage to the home exterior.

Known to withstand cold winter weather, many of its growers have begun to explore other decorative uses for boxwood shrubs. In recent years, boxwood Christmas décor has gained popularity among those who celebrate the holiday. Making a boxwood tabletop tree can also become a fun indoor craft project for your next celebration.

How to Make a Tabletop Boxwood for Christmas

For many, the Christmas season is a time in which homes are decorated. From shimmering lights to trees, there is seldom a shortage of holiday cheer. While it is extremely common to bring large trees indoors, this may not be a viable option for everyone.

Mini boxwood Christmas trees, however, can be a unique alternative to more traditional trees. Tabletop boxwood for Christmas can also serve as accent décor in windows, on porches, or even within the holiday tablescape.

Those who wish to create a tabletop boxwood for Christmas will first need to collect the needed materials. Glossy, year-round foliage is a trademark of boxwood plants. Therefore, a large number of branches will need to be gathered.

While boxwood shrubs will benefit from pruning, make certain not to remove excess foliage. Dried boxwood branches or artificial branches can also be purchased from craft stores. Before deciding which type of branch to use, make certain to weigh the pros and cons of each in order to select which best serves the desired purpose and design look. (Note: you can also purchase or create a topiary boxwood instead.)

Next, select a cone-shaped foam form. Cones made of Styrofoam are common for the creation of mini boxwood Christmas trees made from dried or artificial materials. Those making a boxwood tabletop tree out of freshly cut branches should consider the use of florist’s foam, which will assist in keeping branches hydrated while in use as décor. This will help to keep boxwood Christmas décor looking its best for as long as possible.

To begin filling in the cone with branches, ensure that it is first anchored to a strong base or container to hold the weight of the finished miniature boxwood arrangement. Once all of the branches have been inserted into the tabletop boxwood, consider going back and pruning the “tree” to create the perfect shape.

Finished miniature boxwood Christmas trees can then be decorated, much the same as their larger counterparts. As always, it will be essential to follow decorating guidelines related to fire prevention and general safety in the home. 

Boxwood is an extremely popular low maintenance shrub in the home landscape. In fact, one of the primary complaints about the plant is how frequently used it is. There are also some very destructive diseases that attack it. You may be in the market for substitutes for boxwood to make your yard unique or to avoid pest issues. Happily, there are many alternatives to boxwood.

Appropriate boxwood replacements come in different sizes and hues. Read on for tips on great plants to replace boxwood shrubs.

Boxwood Replacements

Boxwood is a fabulous shrub when you are creating a garden, easy-care and tolerant of sheering and shaping. It is not without issues though. Pests are one. First, there was boxwood blight, then the box tree caterpillar was found to be decimating these foundation plants.

So, whether you are tired of boxwood or fighting boxwood pests, it may be time to consider boxwood alternatives. Plants to replace boxwood won’t be exactly like your boxwood shrubs, but they each offer some advantages.

Substitutes for Boxwood

One of the best alternatives to boxwood is inkberry (Ilex glabra), an evergreen holly. People love these plants as replacements for boxwood since they have a similar look. Inkberry has small leaves and a rounded habit that makes it look a bit like boxwood. In addition, the plants grow into a hedge faster than boxwood. They are low care and drought resistant too. It even has small white spring flowers that develop into black berries.

Another plant to consider is dwarf evergreen Pyracomeles Juke Box®. This plant can easily be mistaken for boxwood with its tiny, glossy leaves and small branches. It grows into a ball to 3 feet (1 m.) tall and wide.

Another of the fine boxwood alternatives is Anna’s Magic Ball arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Anna van Vloten’). It also has that nice, rounded habit that reminds you of boxwood and remains vibrant all year long. Anna’s Magic Ball is a bright, glowing shade of yellow only one foot (31 cm.) tall and compact.

Privets are great plants to replace boxwoods, too, but be sure to choose non-invasive varieties. A good choice is the Golden Vicary privet (Ligustrum x ‘Vicaryi’), which grows quite large, 12 feet (4 m.) tall and 9 feet (3 m.) wide. This plant grows faster than a boxwood and tolerates sheering into a formal hedge. The foliage is a standout yellow with a faint pink blush in fall and a deep purple hue in winter.

For a smaller non-invasive privet, go with Ligustrum ‘Sunshine’ which averages 6 feet (2 m.) tall and half as wide. Its small leaves give it the same texture as boxwoods. 

Boxwood plants are popular and can be found in many gardens. However, Korean boxwood plants are special since they are particularly cold-hardy and can thrive all the way down to the U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 4. If you want to learn more Korean boxwood information or get tips for growing Korean boxwoods, read on.

Korean Boxwood Information

Korean boxwood plants (Buxus sinica insularis, formerly Buxus microphylla var. koreana) are broadleaf evergreen shrubs. They grow upright to about 2 feet (0.5 m.) tall. They are slightly wider than they are tall when they are mature and develop a partially open branch structure. These shrubs are dense plants. Their many branches are covered with finely-textured evergreen leaves that give the shrubs visual interest all year long. In summer, the leaves are green. In winter, they take on a bronze cast. Spring brings small, fragrant, cream-colored blossoms that attract bees. The flowers develop into seed capsules by fall.

How to Grow a Korean Boxwood

If you are wondering how to grow a Korean boxwood, remember that these boxwoods are cold-hardy. They can survive winters in the northern states, down to USDA hardiness zone 4. Growing Korean boxwoods starts with picking a planting site. Choose a location that gets some sun, ideally partial sun. If you pick a full sun site, your plants may suffer from sunscald in winter. You’ll need to find a location with moist, loamy soils. The shrubs’ evergreen foliage needs some protection from desiccation. Site your Korean boxwood plants where they are sheltered from drying winter winds. If you don’t, they may suffer from winter burn.

Korean Boxwood Care

Irrigation is a part of Korean boxwood care. While the plants are drought tolerant, it’s important to provide regular irrigation during the first season after transplant. This helps the roots to establish. Use mulch to keep the root system cool and moist. Pruning is one of the tasks you’ll have to undertake as part of Korean boxwood care. Boxwood is often used as a hedge plant or in a border. Fortunately, it is very tolerant of shearing, so do not be afraid to clip it into shape. Boxwoods are drought tolerant and Japanese beetle and deer resistant. However, it is possible that your plants will be attacked by mites, scale, leaf miners, mealybugs, or webworms. Keep a lookout for yellowing leaves or insect damage.

If large branches of your mature boxwood turn orange or tan, the plant is likely suffering from boxwood decline. What is this? Boxwood decline in shrubs is a disorder caused by plant stress and fungal diseases. Read on to learn about boxwood decline symptoms and tips for managing boxwood decline.

What is Boxwood Decline?

If your boxwood shrubs are suffering from stress – like improper pruning, inadequate drainage, or cold injury – they may contract boxwood decline. This disorder can discolor and damage your mature plants. It can be caused by the fungus Macrophoma, which causes the oldest foliage to turn yellow. If you look closely, you can see small black dots on the dead leaves. These are the fruiting structures. Boxwood decline in shrubs can also be caused by the fungus Volutella. It creates orange-pink fruiting structures on boxwood branches when the weather is wet and warm. Boxwood decline attacks older boxwoods, those 20 years old or more. It usually occurs after the plant has suffered some stress, like winter injury, poor pruning, or excess water in the soil. When you look for boxwood decline symptoms, keep an eye out for discolored stems and foliage. The stem discoloration can be continuous, but it isn’t always. Sections of the foliage of infected boxwoods will turn light green. In time, the foliage turns yellow and then fades to tan.

How to Treat Box Wood Decline

Treating boxwood decline starts with prevention. Make every effort to keep your plants vigorous and healthy. Be sure they get sufficient water on a regular basis and that their roots have excellent drainage. Avoid circumstances that stress the plants. Make sure excessive mulch isn’t layered over their root zone. If construction is occurring nearby, take care that the boxwood roots are not injured, or the soil compacted. Keep the boxwood free from insect infestation. One of the causes for die-back diseases like boxwood decline is crowded growth in the branch crotches. They create humidity in the boxwood canopy. Managing boxwood decline should include allowing air and light into the center of the shrub. If you see discolored or withered leaves, remove them by shaking the plants gently then picking out the dead foliage. Prune out dead and dying branches, which also thins out the center of the plant.

Boxwoods are attractive, evergreen shrubs that retain their emerald-green color year-round. Unfortunately, boxwoods are susceptible to a variety of diseases, and a fungal disease known as volutella blight on boxwood is one of the worst. Read on to learn about volutella blight control.

Symptoms of Volutella Blight on Boxwood

The first sign of volutella blight on boxwood is delayed and stunted growth in spring, typically followed by the dieback of branches. Leaves turn yellow, darkening to tan as the disease progresses, often with black streaks on the petioles (small stems that join the leaves to the branch). Unlike healthy leaves that spread out, leaves affected by volutella blight remain close to the stem. If conditions are wet, you may notice masses of pinkish spores on the lower surface of foliage. The bark of affected plants peels away easily.

Volutella Blight Control and Prevention

To control or prevent this disease, the following precautions should be taken:

• Ensure boxwoods are planted in well-drained soil with a soil pH between 6.8 and 7.5.
• Spray boxwood with a copper-based fungicide before new growth emerges in spring, then spray again immediately following pruning, and again in summer and autumn. Spray carefully to penetrate the thick foliage. Remember that fungicides can be an effective preventive measure, but they are not a cure.
• Water boxwood as needed to keep the soil evenly moist but never soggy. Avoid overhead watering. Instead, water at the base of the plant, using a garden hose, drip system, or soaker.

Volutella Blight Boxwood Treatment

Sanitize pruning tools before and after each use. Use sharp tools to prevent scratching and tearing plant tissue. Prune the diseased boxwood to improve air circulation, light penetration, and overall growing conditions. Remove all dead growth, including leaves that are caught in the crotch of branches. Work carefully; pruning wounds provide an entry point for the disease. Prune only when the plant is dry, as pathogens spread quickly in damp conditions. Rake up all debris under the plant after pruning, then burn diseased debris immediately to prevent the spread of the disease. Alternatively, dispose of debris in a tightly sealed plastic bag. Never compost diseased plant material, and keep in mind that fungus can live in the debris for as long as five years.

Boxwoods are landscape darlings due to their compact habit, ease of care, resistance to many diseases and pests, and wide availability and affordability. One of the few insects that can cause issues on these resilient plants is boxwood spider mites. Spider mite damage on boxwoods can be hard to spot at first and, after a long infection, the plant's health can be severely affected by these sucking insects. Here are some tips on how to recognize the pests and how to get rid of spider mites on boxwood.

Life Cycle of Boxwood Spider Mites

Boxwood spider mites overwinter as eggs and hatch and become active in April to early May. They are tiny, spider-like creatures who cause damage when they suck the sap from the leaves of the plant. Their saliva contains a toxin that causes stippling on leaves and, over time, the reduction in sap to the plant will cause a silvery, unhealthy cast on foliage. Treating spider mites on boxwoods needs to start as soon as the pests are observed to save the health of the plant. In order to control the mites, you need to know a bit about their life cycle. These insects overwinter as eggs on the undersides of leaves. When temperatures warm up, they hatch. Adults feed on both surfaces of the leaves of the plant. There can be eight or more generations per season, which can add up to a lot of insects and some potentially serious damage to your plant. The insects are more closely related to spiders and have eight legs, tan to reddish coloring, and bear two large dark patches on their sides.

Spider Mite Damage on Boxwoods

The first sign you have spider mites might be leaf stippling. The upper or lower leaves may bear raised, lighter colored scratches on their surfaces. This is due to the toxins in the mites’ saliva. On severely fed foliage, the color may be brown, but it is usually tan. If feeding activity is accelerated, the leaves may actually start dropping off the plant. The best way to determine if spider mites are doing the damage is by holding a piece of plain paper under the plant and giving the branches a shake. Spider mites will show up on the white paper and can be counted. If each whack of the branch results in 15 or more spider mites, you have a serious problem and boxwood spider mite control is now a necessity.

Treating Spider Mites on Boxwoods

Once you have identified the problem, it's time to ask yourself how to get rid of spider mites on boxwood. There are several biological controls that are natural and non-toxic. These include predators such as:

• Lacewings
• Ladybugs
• Rove beetles
• Predatory mites
• Minute pirate bugs
• Predaceous midges

It can be difficult to seduce these insects to your ailing plant, so a better method of boxwood spider mite control might be horticultural oil. Used in spring and every three weeks, this non-toxic oil can quell populations of spider mites quickly. Insecticidal soaps also have some effectiveness. In especially bad infestations, you may have to resort to a miticide. Use caution and read all instructions before using any chemical-based formula.

Boxwood (Buxus spp.) is a popular shrub in gardens and landscapes around the country. However, the shrub can be the host to boxwood mites, Eurytetranychus buxi: spider mites so tiny that the insects are difficult to see with the naked eye. If you are planting new boxwoods, consider varieties that are mite resistant. For example, Japanese boxwood is less susceptible to boxwood spider mites than European and American varieties. If your beloved boxwoods are already infested, read on for tips on boxwood mite damage and boxwood mite control.

What are Boxwood Bud Mites?

What are boxwood bud mites? They are tiny insects that eat away on the bottom of boxwood leaves. Even with a hand lens, you may have trouble seeing these pests. You’ll see the boxwood mite damage easily enough, however. Leaves that are infected with boxwood spider mites look like they have been pricked by pins, and they may be spotted with very small yellow or white “freckles.” Severe infestations may lead to defoliation of the plants.

Boxwood Mite Control

As is often true in the garden, prevention is easier than cure when it comes to boxwood spider mites. One factor in mite infestation is the application of high nitrogen fertilizer, so avoiding this pitfall is a good first step. In order to understand boxwood mite control, you need to understand the life cycle of the insect pest. Boxwood spider mites lay round, greenish eggs on the underside of the foliage, and the eggs overwinter there. They hatch out in May and grow up fast, laying eggs themselves in a couple of weeks. The fact that many generations are born every growing summer means that you have to start boxwood mite control early. This mite is most active in spring and early summer, so that’s the time to start treatment for boxwood bud mites. Treatment for boxwood bud mites ranges from organic to chemical. Start with water. Using a fast stream of water from the hose, wash mites from the boxwood foliage. If this approach isn’t working, you can spray the foliage in summer with horticultural oil. As a last resort, treat the boxwood spider mites with abamectin (Avid), bifenthrin (Talstar), malathion, or oxythioquinox (Morestan) in early May.

Boxwoods provide leafy, emerald green color to the landscape with a surprisingly scant investment of time and effort on your part, as boxwood watering requirements are minimal once the plant is established. Read on to learn about watering a boxwood and when to water boxwoods.

Watering Boxwood Shrubs

Water a newly planted boxwood shrub deeply and slowly to ensure the roots are thoroughly saturated. After that time, water regularly until the plant is well established. As a general rule, one or two deep waterings per week is plenty during the plant’s first year, decreasing to once a week during the shrub’s second growing season. Thereafter, watering a boxwood is necessary only during periods of hot, dry weather. The plant may need more water if your soil is sandy, if the shrub is in bright sunlight or receives reflected sun from a nearby sidewalk or wall.

Boxwood Watering Tips

Give your boxwood a deep drink of water before the ground freezes in late autumn or early winter. This helps alleviate any cold damage that may occur from lack of water. Watering a boxwood should be done with a drip system or soaker hose. Alternatively, allow a hose to trickle slowly at the base of the plant until the ground is thoroughly saturated. Keep in mind that a large, mature boxwood shrub requires more water to saturate the root system than a small or young plant. Avoid watering a boxwood shrub if the soil is still moist from the previous watering. Boxwood roots are near the surface and the plant is easily drowned by watering too frequently. Don’t wait until the plant looks wilted or stressed. If you aren’t sure when to water boxwoods, use a trowel to dig 2 to 4 inches (5 to10 cm.) into the soil at a point under the outer branches of the plant. (Be careful not to damage the shallow roots). If the soil is dry at that depth, it’s time to water again. In time, you’ll learn how often your boxwood shrub needs water. A layer of mulch will conserve moisture and reduce water requirements.

Boxwood is a very popular evergreen shrub for decorative edges around gardens and homes. It’s at risk for a number of diseases though. Keep reading to learn more about diseases affecting boxwoods and how to go about treating boxwood diseases.

Identifying Diseases in Boxwood

Decline – Decline is the name given to one of the more mysterious diseases affecting boxwoods. It causes their leaves to turn yellow and drop, their branches to die randomly, and their wood and root crowns to form sunken cankers. Decrease the likelihood of decline by cutting back dead branches and removing dead leaves to encourage air circulation. Don’t overwater during the summer but provide enough water before the frost to give the plant the strength to survive the winter without damage. If decline occurs, don’t plant new boxwoods in the same spot. Root rot – Root rot causes the leaves to lighten in color and the roots to darken and rot. There is no boxwood disease treatment for root rot, and it will kill the plant. Prevent it by planting resistant plants in well-drained soil and watering sparingly. Boxwood blight – Blight turns leaves spotty and brown and may cause them to drop. It also forms cankers on the wood and, in wet conditions, white fungus all over. Cut away and dispose of affected branches and leaves. Put down new mulch to prevent spores from splashing up from the soil and apply fungicide. Nematodes – Nematodes are not so much diseases in boxwood as microscopic worms that eat through the roots. Nematodes can’t be eradicated, but watering, mulching, and fertilizing regularly can keep them in check. Volutella canker – Also known as Volutella blight, it is one of the boxwood bush diseases that makes leaves turn yellow and die. It also kills stems and, when wet, produces masses of pink spores. The boxwood disease treatment in this case consists of pruning back dead material to increase air circulation and applying fungicide.

Boxwood shrubs (Buxus spp.) are known for their deep green leaves and their compact round form. They are excellent specimens for ornamental borders, formal hedges, container gardening and topiary. There are many species and cultivars. The English boxwood (Buxus sempervirens) is particularly popular as a clipped hedge. It grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 5 through 8 and has many cultivars. Unfortunately, there are complaints within the gardening community about smelly boxwood shrubs. Read on to learn more.

Do Boxwoods Have a Scent?

Some people report that their boxwood has a bad odor. More specifically, people complain about boxwood bushes that smell like cat urine. The English boxwood seems to be the main culprit. To be fair, the odor has also been described as resinous, and a resinous scent certainly isn’t a bad thing.

I have never noticed this smell in any boxwoods nor have any of my clients complained to me about smelly boxwood shrubs. But it does happen. In fact, unbeknownst to many, boxwood shrubs produce tiny, inconspicuous blooms – normally in late spring. These flowers, especially in English varieties, may occasionally emit the unpleasant odor that so many people notice.

Help, My Bush Smells Like Cat Urine

If you are concerned about smelly boxwood shrubs, then there are certain things you can do to avoid the smell.

• Don’t install English boxwood near your front door or near any frequently used areas of your landscape.
• Substitute other not-so-odorous boxwood species and their cultivars such as the Japanese or Asian boxwood (Buxus microphyllaor Buxus sinica)
• Consider using Little Leaf boxwood (Buxus sinica var insularis) if you live in zones 6 through 9.

Ask at your local nursery about the other boxwood varieties and cultivars they carry. You can also consider using a completely different species. Densely leafed, evergreen plants can be substituted for boxwood. Consider using cultivars of myrtles (Myrtis.spp.) and hollies (Ilex.spp.) instead.

Boxwoods (Buxus spp) are small, evergreen shrubs that are commonly seen utilized as hedges and border plants. While they are quite hardy and are adaptable in several climatic zones, it is not uncommon for the plants to be afflicted with common boxwood shrub pests. While many of the unwanted pests are benign, in some cases, controlling boxwood insects is paramount to the continued health of the plant. The following article contains information regarding common boxwood pests and treating bugs on boxwoods.

Boxwood Shrub Pests

Boxwoods are generally easy-care shrubs that can be grown in either full sun or shade and are predominantly used for small to medium-sized hedges. Despite their ease of care, many insects thrive on boxwood bushes.

Boxwood leafminer

The most detrimental pest of boxwoods is the boxwood leafminer. It is a small fly that is indigenous to Europe but is now found throughout the United States. Both adults and their larvae cause serious damage to the boxwood foliage in the form of blistering and discoloration. The adult leafminers are about 0.1 inches (0.25 cm.) long and fragile looking. They are orange-yellow to red. In May, the tiny (0.125 inch (0.3 cm.) long) larvae become orange-colored pupae and emerge as a fly. Adults mate and then the female lays her eggs deep inside the leaf tissue. Eggs hatch three weeks later and the larvae slowly grow as they munch away on the inside of the leaf. Controlling boxwood leafminer insects begins with selecting a more resistant variety initially. Some cultivars with various resistance are:

• ‘Handworthiensis’
• ‘Pyramidalis’
• ‘Suffrutoicosa’
• ‘Varder Valley’
• Buxus microphylla var. japonica

If it’s a little too late for that, you can reduce the population by pruning prior to adult emergence or after eggs are laid. Some insecticides can be used, but control is difficult, as the application needs to be timed with the emergence of the adults. Sprays containing bifenthrin, carbaryl, cyfluthrin, or malathion can all be used to treat these insects on boxwood bushes.

Boxwood mite

Eurytetranychus buxi is a spider mite – the boxwood mite to be exact. These boxwood shrub pests feed on the underside of the leaves, leaving them stippled with tiny white or yellow spots. Both European and American boxwoods are susceptible to boxwood mites. Japanese boxwood is a bit more resistant. High nitrogen fertilizer applications coincide with large populations of boxwood mites. As with other types of spider mites, these pests overwinter as eggs on the underside of the leaves. They then hatch in May with another generation on the way in 2-3 weeks. Since this means multiple generations per year, treating these bugs on boxwoods is imperative as early in the season as possible. The mites are most active in the spring and early summer and at their worst when conditions are dry and dusty. Complete defoliation can occur if the infestation is heavy. To treat boxwood mites, you can try and wash them from the plants with a stream of water. Also, horticultural oil is effective. For an aggressive treatment, apply products containing abamectin, bifenthrin, malathion, or oxythioquinox in the first two weeks of May to get a jump on the population.

Boxwood psyllid

Another common insect marauder is the boxwood psyllid (Cacopsylla busi). While this is a less serious pest than the above mentioned, it can still wreak plenty of havoc on your boxwoods. The damage is purely cosmetic with cupping of leaves and affected twig growth. The psyllid afflicts all boxwoods, but the American boxwood is most susceptible. Like the spider mite, the boxwood psyllid overwinters as a tiny, orange egg that hatches in the spring when the buds of the plant open. The nymphs begin feeding on the plant right away. At this stage, the insects damage the plant, causing the leaves to cup. The cupping provides a hiding place for the psyllid as well as protection. They become winged adults by early June and then mate. The females lay their eggs between the bud scales of the boxwood to overwinter until the next spring. There is one population per year. To control psyllids, apply the same insecticides mentioned above in early May when the young have hatched.

Additional Insects on Boxwood Bushes

The aforementioned are the three most common insect invaders on boxwoods, but there are other damaging pests as well. Boxwoods are susceptible to parasitic nematodes, which cause leaf bronzing, stunted growth, and the general decline of the shrub. There are several types of these nematodes. American boxwood is resistant to root-knot nematodes but tolerant of stunt nematodes. Once you have nematodes, you have them. The goal is to minimize the population as much as possible. Grow plants that are unaffected by nematodes to reduce the population and be consistent with care – fertilize, mulch and water on a regular basis to keep the overall health of the plant stable. Less damaging, but no less irritating, on occasion are infestations of scale, mealybugs, and whiteflies. Scale and whitefly are both sucking insects that cause various marring on the leaves of the boxwood but are otherwise fairly benign. Mealybugs exude honeydew, which is attractive to ants, so you are likely to have at least two infestations to deal with. Mealybugs are difficult to control with insecticides. Naturally occurring predators and parasites can aid in controlling the population. Also, the application of insecticidal soap, narrow-range oil, or even a forceful stream of water can reduce populations. Various types of caterpillars may also pose problems with boxwood shrubs.

Healthy boxwood plants have lush green leaves, but to keep your shrubs looking their best, you may need to offer them boxwood plant food. When you see yellowing – foliage that turns a pale yellow or has marked yellow edges – it’s time to start reading up on boxwood fertilizer requirements. For more information on appropriate fertilizer for boxwood shrubs, read on.

Fertilizing Boxwoods

Your boxwoods may grow happily without added nutrition, depending on the soil. It’s best to get a soil test to figure out the product to use for boxwood fertilizing but, generally, loamy and clay soils require less fertilizer than sandy soils. 

One sign that your shrubs lack nitrogen is a general yellowing of the lower, older boxwood leaves. Leaves get smaller and thinner and may turn bronze in the winter if they receive inadequate nitrogen. 

They may also fall off earlier than normal. Fertilizer for boxwood shrubs usually contains nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium as primary ingredients. The fertilizer formula is listed on the packaging with three numbers, reflecting these NPK percentages in the product.

Boxwood Fertilizer Requirements

Experts recommend that you use fertilizer with a 10-6-4 formula, unless your soil testing shows a specific deficit. When you are fertilizing boxwoods, you’ll want to be sure that the product includes magnesium, since this enhances the color of the shrub foliage. Using seaweed calcium as a boxwood plant food can also provide trace elements.

Tips on Boxwood Fertilizing

Apply boxwood plant food in the late fall for best results. Buy a granular fertilizer for boxwood shrubs and sprinkle the correct amount – listed on the packaging – around the base of the shrubs near the drip line. This is the most effective way of meeting your boxwood fertilizer requirement since the most active roots are located near the drip line. 

You also avoid burning the roots by using surface application for boxwood fertilizing. Don’t use too much fertilizer since this can be just as bad as inadequate amounts. It can kill the shrub. So apply the appropriate amount. To be even safer, broadcast the boxwood plant food over several inches (10 cm.) of mulch after the area has been thoroughly irrigated.

Can Boxwoods Be Planted In Pots: Tips On Growing Boxwood Shrubs In Containers

Can boxwoods be planted in pots? Absolutely! They’re the perfect container plant. Needing hardly any maintenance, growing very slowly, and looking green and healthy all through winter, boxwood shrubs in containers are great for keeping some color around your house during the cold, bleak months. Keep reading to learn about care for boxwood in pots and how to plant boxwoods in containers.

How to Plant Boxwoods in Containers

Plant your boxwood shrubs in containers that are fast draining and big. You want your pot to be as wide as the plant is tall, and even wider if you can manage it. Boxwoods have wide-reaching, shallow roots.

Also, any plant that stays outside through the winter winds is going to fare better if it’s closer to the ground. Plant your boxwood in fertile potting mix and water it thoroughly. Plant in the spring if you can, to give it as much time as possible to establish itself before the temperatures drop.

Care for Container Grown Boxwood Shrubs

Care for boxwood in pots is very low-maintenance. When your container grown boxwood shrubs are still young, water them frequently to keep the soil from drying out. Established plants need less water - about once a week in the spring and summer, and less often in the winter. If the weather’s especially hot or dry, water them more.

Boxwood needs very little fertilization, and a feeding once or twice a year should be enough.

Boxwood does very well in cold weather, but since all that’s keeping the cold out is a thin plastic or clay wall, boxwood shrubs in containers are a little more at risk in the winter. Mulch with wood chips or leaves, and wrap young plants in burlap. Don’t let snow accumulate on top, and try to avoid placing them under the eaves of buildings where snow will fall down frequently.

With a little care and pruning, boxwood will usually come back from winter damage, but it may look a little weird for a season or two. If you’re using container grown boxwood shrubs as a border or in a tight arrangement, it’s a good idea to grow a couple extra that can be switched in if one gets unsightly.

Boxwoods are one of the most popular landscape shrubs available. They are noted for their compact forms, ease of care and adaptability. Currently, there are over 200 types of Boxwoods with just over 140 of those available commercially and an unnamed number of cultivars. The American and English Buxus varieties are two of the most prevalent species sold in landscaping, but there are many more options for the discerning gardener. Choose from a variety of leaf shapes, growth forms, and rate and hardiness ranges for a shrub that will best suit your garden.

Common Boxwood Varieties

Finding the perfect ornamental plant for the garden can be a matter of taste, practicality, hardiness, and maintenance level. Buxus, or Boxwood, is one of the most appealing shrubs on the market with a wide range of uses in the landscape. Boxwood bush types may be used as bonsai, container plants, hedges, topiary, and single specimen spectacles. Not all plants are created equal, however, and Boxwoods are equally diverse and uniquely suited to different uses and site conditions. The common Boxwood varieties are the most prevalent but if you choose to think outside the box, there are innumerable cultivars that might provide the right spice to your landscape with the most suitable characteristics for your region. Gardeners that tend to do most of their plant selection at big box stores will still have some stunning and affordable Buxus options.

• The English Boxwood is heralded as an easy to grow plant with softly rounded form and lush foliage. It has an attractive loose, blousey shape that softens the landscape with easy appeal. Unfortunately, the foliage has an odor, which may be offensive to some.
• The common, or American Buxus has over 400 cultivars with a wide range of size, form, and variation in leaf color and shape. Some cultivars can actually grow quite large, so it is important to note the cultivar's maximum growth if using the plant in smaller locations.
• Other familiar Boxwood bush types found in most nurseries and garden centers might be Korean and Littleleaf Buxus.

Buxus Varieties for Unique Situations

If you want to have some real fun, check out some of the less frequently found Boxwood species and cultivars. Upright cultivars provide architectural interest and can still withstand frequent shearing to keep the plant in a habit that suits your garden needs. These types of Boxwoods make a real statement and form neat hedges for privacy and screening.

• Try the Buxus sempervirens series for vertical interest.
• Buxus fastigiata is a 5 to 8 foot (1.5 to 2 m.) tall specimen
• 'Dee Runk' may grow 8 feet (2.5 m.) tall with a slender profile of only 2 ½ feet (75 cm.).
• Highlander is another upright form with rapid growth of up to 24 inches (60 cm.) per year, a trait useful for quickly establishing landscapes.

Mounding and dwarf types of Boxwood are comfortable shrubs for instant greenery and fill in around perennials with practiced evergreen ease.

• Green Pillow is a low mounding form that gets just over a foot (30 cm.) tall with a 3-foot (1 m.) spread.
• Grace Hendricks Phillips is a high ranking form of dwarf Boxwood.

Some of the larger Boxwoods are perfect for screens and privacy hedges but there are also medium shrubs that have interesting texture and superior hardiness.

• A plant that forms an almost perfect cone shape is Pyramidalis. While not as hardy as some Boxwood, it grows slowly to 5 feet (1-1/2 m.) with no need to shear to keep the elegant shape.
• Vardar Valley is disease resistant and suitable for zones 5 to 8 with a nice tight, low growth habit.
• Add some interesting color with Newport Blue. This plant's blue-green foliage is an excellent foil for golden evergreens or deciduous plants.
• Rotunidfolia has the largest leaves of the cultivated forms. It is shade tolerant and reaches 4 to 5 feet (1 to 1-1/2 m.) in height.
• Cold region gardeners might find success with plants in the Sheridan and Glencoe hybrid class, which are hardy down to United States Department of Agriculture zone 4 with some protection.

There are far too many Boxwoods to list here but consult the American Boxwood Society for further information on hybrids and cultivar selections.

Boxwoods made their way from Europe to North America in the mid-1600s, and they've been an important part of American landscapes ever since. Used as hedges, edging, screening plants, and accents, you can never have too many. Read on to find out how to get plenty of new shrubs for free by starting boxwood cuttings.

Starting Boxwood Cuttings

Not as easy to start as your average garden perennial, boxwood cuttings require a little time and patience. You'll probably have a few cuttings that refuse to root, so take more than you think you'll need.

Here's what you'll need for starting boxwood cutting propagation:

• A sharp knife
• Rooting hormone
• Large plastic bag with twist-tie
• Pots filled with clean, fresh potting soil

Taking boxwood cuttings in midsummer catches the stems at just the right stage to give you the best chance of success. Cut 3- to 4-inch (7.5 to 10 cm.) tips of new growth with a sharp knife. Pruning shears or scissors pinch the stems and make it hard for them to take up water later on. Only cut healthy stems with no insect damage or discoloration. Successfully rooting boxwood cuttings depends on cutting the tips from healthy, vigorous plants. Stems cut early in the morning root best.

Rooting Boxwood Bushes

The medium you use for rooting boxwood bushes should be clean, low in fertility, and very well-drained. Don't use potting soil, which is rich in nutrients that can encourage rot. If you are going to start a lot of shrubs, you can make your own medium from 1 part clean builder's sand, 1 part peat moss, and 1 part vermiculite. You'll come out ahead buying a small bag of commercial rooting medium if you are only going to start a few.

Remove the leaves from the lower two inches (5 cm.) of each cutting and scrape the bark from one side of the exposed stem. Roll the lower end of the cutting in powdered rooting hormone and tap the stem to remove the excess. Stick the lower end of the cutting where the leaves were removed about two inches (5 cm.) into the rooting medium. Firm the medium around the stem just enough to make it stand up straight. You can place three cuttings in a 6-inch (15 cm.) pot.

Place the pot in a plastic bag and close the top to create a moist environment for the plant. Open the bag daily to mist the stem and check the soil for moisture. After about three weeks, give the stem a little tug once a week to see if it has roots. Once it roots, remove the pot from the bag.

Repot rooted plants into individual pots with good quality potting soil. It is essential to repot the plants as soon as they begin growing to prevent the roots from becoming tangled and to provide them with nutrient-rich soil. A good potting soil has enough nutrients to support the plant until you are ready to set it outside. Continue growing the new plants in a sunny window until spring planting time.

Growing boxwood from cuttings is fun and rewarding. As you learn to propagate some of the more difficult garden plants, you add an extra dimension to your gardening experience.

Boxwood blight is a relatively new plant disease that ruins the appearance of boxwoods and pachysandras. Find out about the prevention and treatment of boxwood blight in this article.

What is Boxwood Blight?

Boxwood blight is a fungal disease caused by the organism Cylindrocladium buxicola. The organism also goes by the pseudonyms Cylindrocladium pseudonaviculatum or Calonectria pseudonaviculata. The disease is called box blight in the U.K., and you may also hear it referred to as boxwood leaf drop in the U.S. Discovered in the U.K. in the mid 1990's, the disease didn’t make its way to the U.S. until October 2011, where it was detected in a nursery in North Carolina. It has since spread as far north as Massachusetts and can be found in isolated areas across the U.S. Boxwood blight symptoms are similar to the symptoms of other diseases that infect boxwoods. The first sign is round, brown spots on the leaves. The shrub then drops most, or all, of its leaves and the twigs begin to die back. The roots aren’t affected, so the shrub may regrow. Plants don't usually die of boxwood blight disease, but after repeatedly losing its leaves, it becomes so weak that it has no resistance to other diseases. Secondary infections usually attack and kill the plant.

How to Control Boxwood Blight

There is no cure for boxwood blight, so gardeners must rely on disease prevention to protect their plants. Take these precautions when working around boxwoods and pachysandra:

• Stay away from box and pachysandra plants when they are wet.
• Clean off the soles of your shoes before moving from one part of the garden to another.
• Disinfect your pruners between plants. Dip them in a solution of nine parts water and one part bleach for ten seconds and then allow them to air dry. Scrub them thoroughly with soap and water and dry them before putting them away.
• Destroy or dispose of boxwood clippings. Never compost them unless you are sure your plants are disease-free.
• Avoid planting boxwoods in partly shaded areas.

Horticulturalists are testing several methods of treatment, but the current recommendation is to remove and destroy the plant by burning it or bagging and disposing of it. Don’t replant boxwoods in the area where you removed diseased plants.

They make the perfect thick, luxurious hedge, but boxwoods aren't all they're cracked up to be. They're plagued with a number of problems that can result in brown or yellowing boxwood shrubs. These boxwood problems range in trouble from very easy to cure to extremely damaging. Although boxwoods can be beautiful barriers when they're healthy, they'll need your help to deal with whatever is ailing them.

Brown or Yellowing Boxwood Shrubs

Here are some common causes of a boxwood turning yellow or brown: 

Winter Damage. If you live in a place that experiences freezing temperatures in the winter, your boxwood may have been damaged by excessive snow, ice, and cold-- or even winter burn. The cold-nipped tissues can take many months to become obvious, so if the yellow leaves are appearing in the spring, try not to panic unless they continue to spread. Feed and water your bushes like normal to help them recover. 

Root Rot. Sometimes the root systems of boxwood shrubs get infected with fungal pathogens like Phytophthora. When root rot becomes serious, it'll manifest as yellowing leaves that curl inward and turn up, and the plant will grow poorly. Really serious root rot may move into the crown, discoloring the wood near the plant's base. 

Treating root rot is all about increasing the drainage around the plant's roots, so if it's potted, make sure to reduce watering frequency. A landscape boxwood may have to be dug and the soil around it amended to give it a fighting chance. Unfortunately, there's no chemical intervention available for root rot. 

Nematodes. The tiny roundworms known as nematodes are no strangers to boxwoods. These microscopic pests feed from plant roots, causing symptoms of general decline. Plants will yellow and wilt or even die back if root damage is extensive.

You can prolong the life of these infected plants by providing plenty of water and feeding them regularly, but they will eventually succumb to nematodes. When they do, consider replacing them with nematode-resistant American boxwoods, yaupon holly or Buford holly.

Macrophoma Leaf Spot. This common fungus looks alarming when a gardener first notices it, with the yellow or tan-color leaves sporting black fungal fruiting bodies. Fortunately, even though it looks horrible, it's nothing to worry about. If your plant is completely covered in those black fruiting bodies, consider treating it with neem oil; otherwise, the disease will clear on its own.

Volutella Blight. When large portions of your boxwood's new growth is turning from red to yellow at the beginning of the growing season, with salmon fruiting bodies following, you've got a bigger problem on your hands-- closer inspection may reveal that your plants have loose bark and girdling on affected branches. Volutella blight can be difficult to control, but remember that the goal is to decrease favorable conditions for fungal growth.

Trimming the boxwood by up to 1/3 will help reduce the interior humidity and remove the infected branches, which are sources of fungal spores. Make sure to remove as much of the dead growth as possible before you begin a spray program.

In the early spring, before new growth has started, spray your boxwood with a copper fungicide and continue to spray according to package directions until the new growth has hardened. You may need to spray again in the late summer or fall if your boxwood adds extra growth during particularly rainy periods.

Boxwoods are iconic shrubs, but they're not perfectly suited for all climates. The elegance and formality that boxwood hedges lend to a landscape is unmatched by other shrubs, but in many locations, they suffer badly in the wintertime. Protecting boxwood in winter is no small task, but boxwood winter damage is no small thing for your shrub. Just like you care for your boxwoods in summer, care of boxwoods in winter is paramount. Luckily, we're here to help.

Boxwood Winter Damage

Boxwoods suffer badly in winter because they're native to areas where winters are very mild. This means that having them in your landscape may require a great deal more effort to keep them looking good. Winter burn is a common problem of boxwoods. It may cause you some pretty serious concern the first time you see it, but a little bit isn't usually a major problem. The primary symptom of winter burn is a discoloration of exposed areas of the plant, especially on the south side. Leaves may bleach to a tannish color, or they may necrotize and turn brown to black. Either way, those particular leaves are goners, but unless the burn is extensive or your bush is very young, it'll survive to see another winter. It's when this happens year after year that your bush may start to suffer long-term damage.

Boxwood Winter Protection

There's no good way to approach treating cold injury in boxwoods, but most people start by pruning their shrubs back as soon as the damage is noticed. Wait until early spring to do any major trimming though, because too much pruning can encourage the production of tender shoots that can't take the winter any better than those sections you just removed. Prevention and protection are the key words if your boxwood suffers winter damage year after year. Winter damage typically occurs when the ground's frozen and cold, dry winds blow across exposed leaf surfaces. This particular combination encourages the leaves to transpire fluids to the environment when the plant is unable to draw more fluid in to replace what was lost. This situation leads to rapid leaf collapse, though in the winter, it may be hard to tell right away. It's not unusual for damage to appear in the spring, after everything has thawed. Some people wrap their boxwoods with burlap in anticipation of major storms, but frankly, this is generally a pointless practice when it comes to winter damage. It may protect the bush from heavy snows that cause breakage, but keeping the boxwood hydrated is the only thing that will save it from the dehydration that causes winter damage. This year, instead of wrapping and wondering why your shrub is still hurting, try applying a thick layer of mulch to its root system to help the soil hold onto both moisture and heat. Remember to water your bush during the winter too, especially if you live in a windy area. If boxwoods prove too much work to maintain in your climate, give a holly a try-- many are extremely cold hardy and small-leafed varieties can be clipped into formal hedges.

Learning how and when to trim boxwoods will allow you to grow lush and shapely shrubs that look fantastic year-round. But if you're new to gardening, you may be wondering where to start. I'll cover the boxwood pruning basics you need to know before you make the first cut.

Introduced to America in 1652, boxwood shrubs have been gracing gardens since colonial times. Members of the genus Buxus include about 30 species and 160 cultivars, including Buxus sempervirens, or the common American boxwood. The varieties are largely based on leaf size and growth which can range from 1 to 20 feet (0.3-6 m) tall.

Boxwoods are an old-fashioned favorite. Many gardeners used to trim boxwood bushes into severe and often geometric shapes, but you can grow them in looser shapes to create a more modern feel in your garden. No matter what style you prefer, pruning these evergreens the right way is key to getting your desired look and keeping shrubs healthy. Here's how to do it.

Do You Need to Prune Boxwoods?

When you choose the right boxwood varieties, they need very little pruning. This low-maintenance evergreen shrub is easy to grow and thrives under many conditions that would defeat a less sturdy plant.

Their compact evergreen leaves add texture and form to the garden when all else falls to winter's sleep. Used as a hedge, nothing provides a better screen against an unsightly view. That said, these handy evergreens do need occasional pruning.

Boxwood, like most shrubs, needs regular cleaning out of dead or twisted branches that can be harmful to the bush's health. Even when chosen for a particular size or shape, errant branches or twigs on your boxwood may need trimming. But overall, these bushes don't need much care compared to other shrubs.

Essential Tools for Boxwood Pruning

When to Prune Boxwoods

As with any pruning job, you should be asking, "When is the best time to trim boxwoods?" You can trim boxwoods at any time of year but, for the sake of your plant's health, it's best to avoid shearing in the late fall.

The new growth that appears after trimming boxwood bushes in fall may not have time to harden off before frost. Shearing or trimming may be done with hand shears or with electric hedge clippers, like the recommended tools above. Shearing removes all or most of the most recent growth.

Before pruning, you should also take into account the age of your boxwoods. Young plants actually benefit from frequent shearing, whereas older plants may require less frequent shearing in favor of more extensive rejuvenation pruning.

The best time to trim boxwoods for shaping is during the first few years. This encourages good branching and new growth, which will result in denser growth and a more defined shape. But don't overdo it.

Excessive shearing can produce growth that's dense on the outside, but weak on the inside. This kind of growth can prevent light from reaching the center of the bush and leave the inner branches bare, which will slowly weaken your plant's structure.

How to Prune Boxwoods

First, start by removing any diseased or dying branches. Next, shear boxwood shrubs with a pair of electric hedge trimmers or manual hedge shears, like the ones recommended above. If you are pruning your boxwoods into a hedge or rectangles, angle your sides so the base of the shrub is a little wider than the top.

This allows sun to hit more evenly down the entire side of the plant. If you have straight sides or if your shrub is wider at the top, this blocks the sun from hitting the bottom of your boxwood. Eventually, the bottom will stop growing as strongly as the top and look less full at the base.

After that, you can look at trimming overgrown shrubs that are past their prime. Be careful, though. Hard pruning boxwoods can kill your shrub. It's wise only to take such drastic measures in stages, over several years if necessary, to give your boxwood shrubs the best opportunity to survive.

Pruning Boxwood Topiaries

There's one other way you can prune boxwoods that is a bit more labor intensive, but can create a truly unique design in your garden. If you don't mind a little extra work, boxwood shrubs make excellent topiaries.

Topiaries are living garden statuaries that can be molded into any shape your imagination can envision. Depending on the size and shape of your vision, you may need more than one boxwood to fill out the form.

The best time to trim boxwoods for topiaries is in the spring before new growth begins. Train smaller branches to form to the structure and prune larger branches to prevent them from growing toward the outside. As the seasons pass, your boxwood shrubs will take on the shape of the structure and you will have a unique conversation piece and interesting focal point for your garden.

Boxwood plants (Buxus) are dense, evergreen shrubs often planted in elegant and formal landscapes. Many varieties and cultivars of boxwood plants exist. Boxwoods are grown for foliage as their flowers are insignificant. Growing boxwood in your home landscape allows you to create a formal hedge, a matching border, or a pair of boxwood plants to balance an entryway. Boxwoods may also be planted as focal points or foundation plantings.

Tips for Planting Boxwood

When choosing where to plant boxwoods, make sure to plant them in the spot most appropriate for their needs. A full or part sun location is needed for optimum growth of this specimen. Successfully growing boxwood requires well-drained soil and while the plants prefer soil to be organic, the boxwood's soil needs are adaptable. 

When planting boxwood, consider your year-round climate. If temperatures become extremely hot in summer, boxwood plants will appreciate afternoon shade and regular watering. Water deeply, as frequent, shallow irrigation will not reach the root zone of the growing boxwood. 

Until established, after about two years, boxwoods will need at least weekly watering. When planting boxwood, locate them in an area that is protected from winter wind to avoid a condition called winter bronzing. 

Plant at the same level they were planted at the nursery or in the container. Planting boxwood too deeply can lead to stress and possibly death.

Information on Boxwood Care

Properly mulching the shallow-rooted boxwood helps retain moisture and keep roots cool. Growing boxwoods should have a 2 to 3 inch (5-8 cm.) layer of mulch extending 12 inches (31 cm.) past the foliage. As with all shrub mulching, trunks should not be covered. 

Aside from watering and mulching, growing boxwood is a low maintenance task, unless you wish to keep them as a sheared hedge. Shearing, or pruning of boxwood, is the most time-consuming part of boxwood care when they are grown as a hedge, but you will be rewarded with a healthy, long-lasting hedge. 

Older boxwood care will include thinning limbs to allow sunshine to reach the inner foliage. The boxwood leaf miner is the most common pest one must deal with when caring for boxwoods. If foliage begins to yellow, treat with organic oil or insecticidal sprays. Phytophthora root rot may result from soggy soils. 

Yearly soil tests can determine if the soil pH for the boxwood is correct. Soil pH should be between 6.5 and 7. It is best to test the soil before planting boxwood. pH can be raised with the addition of lime and lowered by sulfur. 

As slow-growing landscape plants, boxwoods are valuable, and consequently they are expensive. Take time to choose where to plant boxwood carefully. Remember to water and mulch properly for a long-lived, vigorous specimen.