I'm the sort of person who cries at adverts, so you'd best believe I'm always slightly heartbroken when a bromeliad finishes flowering. And can you blame me? After weeks – sometimes months – of those spectacular, colourful bracts stealing the show, it's all too easy to assume the plant's best days are behind it.

Fortunately, in a delightfully Sir Terry Pratchett-esque turn of events, the secret to coaxing more blooms may be sitting in your fruit bowl. Because, yes, there may be a way to encourage a bromeliad to bloom again, and it all involves our beloved bananas exploiting a new niche.

Don't believe me? Well, consider this: in the wild, bromeliads are exposed to ethylene as fallen fruit ripens around them, and the gas can act as a signal that it's time to flower. And where does ethylene gas come from?

Why, it's a naturally occurring plant hormone released by ripening fruit, of course. Ripening fruit like (you guessed it) bananas.

How Bananas Can Encourage Bromeliads to Bloom

That's right, folks; in the wild, these colorful houseplants are exposed to ethylene as fallen bananas ripen around them, and the gas can act as a signal that it's time to flower.

To recreate this at home, gardeners often place a mature bromeliad inside a clear plastic bag with a ripe banana or apple for around seven to 10 days. The fruit releases ethylene gas, which may trigger the plant to produce a new flower spike over the following weeks or months.

Patience is essential, however. Bromeliads are not quick to rebloom, and results can vary depending on the species, the age of the plant, and growing conditions. Bright, indirect light and consistent care will still play a major role in encouraging flowers.

It’s also worth noting that the original bromeliad rosette flowers only once in its lifetime. After blooming, the mother plant gradually declines while producing offsets, or “pups,” around its base. These pups can eventually mature and flower themselves, extending the life of your bromeliad collection for years.

Still, for anyone mourning the loss of their bromeliad’s colourful display, the humble banana might just be worth a try. And bromeliads aren’t the only plants where ripe bananas can influence flowering behaviour. In fact, ethylene is already used in commercial horticulture to help regulate flowering and ripening in a wide range of crops.

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In some ornamental plants and tropical species, exposure to ethylene can help trigger or synchronise blooming, which is why gardeners sometimes experiment with placing ripe bananas near plants that are reluctant to flower.

That said, this is not a universal flowering hack. Many common houseplants and garden species won’t respond at all, and some can even be negatively affected by prolonged exposure to ripening bananas in enclosed spaces. Which means you should think of the banana trick less as a guaranteed solution, and more as a gentle nudge for plants that are already close to their natural flowering point.

For bromeliads, though, that whole "just add bananas" idea remains one of the more intriguing experiments. It’s probably not going to turn your kitchen into a tropical greenhouse of miracles overnight, sure, but it does make you wonder if, somewhere in the background, your plants are quietly taking notes every time you restock the fruit bowl.

Bringing greenery inside for the holidays is a beautiful and traditional way to decorate. It’s a promise through the cold, dark winter that life will return again in spring. But you don’t have to get mired down in tradition. This year, try a new way to bring festive greenery into your home: kokedama.

Making kokedama moss balls is an excellent way to get creative with holiday plants. Kokedama is a Japanese practice of wrapping sheets of moss and twine around the root ball of a plant so it can be hung for display. You can also display your plant on a saucer or tray if you don’t have a place to hang it. And using small kokedama succulents is a stunning way to decorate your Christmas tree.

There are many plants suitable for kokedama. Here are four that will make a gorgeous display this holiday season.

Kokedama Plants Perfect for Christmas

Making kokedama can seem a bit daunting, but there is no wrong way to do it! You can make it easy on yourself by purchasing a premade kokedama hanging moss planter, like this one from Amazon. Or you can go the traditional route with sheets of live moss and a spool of natural jute twine, both available from Amazon.

Kokedama moss balls are easy to care for. Simply soak the whole planted moss ball in a bowl of water for 20 minutes when the moss becomes dry, or once a week. Gently squeeze out excess water and let the plant and moss drain for a little while in the sink before hanging back up.

1. Poinsettia

Nothing quite says Christmas like a vibrant poinsettia in the house. Bright red, pink, or white poinsettias will all look lovely against the green kokedama moss balls. Hang smaller kokedama poinsettias or place larger ones on a decorative tray for a gorgeous centerpiece on your holiday table. A kokedama poinsettia will also brighten your entryway and greet guests on a console table.

2. Anthurium

Anthuriums, with their bold red spathes, will add a pop of festive color to your holiday decor. Anthurium plants like bright, indirect light so this kokedama plant will do best near a window that has a sheer covering. To avoid root rot, only soak your kokedama anthurium once the moss ball is fully dry.

3. Amaryllis

Amaryllis blooms brighten even the darkest of winter days and are a fabulous way to add holiday cheer to any home. Up your game by turning a traditional amaryllis bulb into a gorgeous kokedama display. You can hang your kokedama amaryllis in a bright, sunny window for the best blooms, but make sure you keep an eye on the moisture levels since the sun will dry it out faster.

4. Red Bromeliad

There are many different colors of bromeliad plants, but I love a bright red for the holiday season. Display your glorious kokedama bromeliad in bright, diffuse light. Keep your bromeliad moist, but not soggy for the best results in a dry, winter household. You can also use a plant mister spray bottle, like this one from Amazon, to help keep things hydrated.

Festive Kokedama Essentials

Get creative and change up your holiday greenery with unique kokedama plants. I’ll be trying my hand at it this Christmas season!

Bromeliads are a popular choice for both indoor and outdoor gardeners. Known for their purported ability to purify the air and remove pollutants, bromeliads are often praised for their usefulness and ease of growth. With over 2,000 different species within the family itself, there may truly be a plant to suit the needs of nearly any grower. As most species are considered to be tropical, these plants grow best in regions that do not experience frost or prolonged periods of cool weather. Growers beyond those zones, however, have found success in overwintering the plant indoors throughout the coldest portions of the year. One type, called the ‘Pink Quill’ bromeliad, is often grown for its uniquely shaped bracts and colorful blooms.

What is a ‘Pink Quill’ Air Plant?

Also known as Wallisia cyanea or Tillandsia cyanea, pink quill plants are a dependable tropical perennial. Native to Ecuador, the small evergreen plant grows best in USDA growing zones 9 through 12. Throughout the gardening season, quill bromeliads produce rosettes of thin grass-like foliage. Though the plant is relatively short at maturity, its foliage is known to sprawl and reach impressive widths. Masses of leaves range in color from glossy green to attractive shades of silver and gray.

Pink quill bromeliads are an epiphyte, or an air plant. This means that the plant is most commonly found growing on another species. Rather than drawing water and nutrients from the soil these plants are able to do so from rainwater, surrounding plant matter, or even the air. Though the flowers of the pink quill are relatively simple in form and structure, the plant does produce bracts that are exceptionally showy.

Tillandsia Cyanea Care

Most pink quill bromeliads will begin to bloom in late winter and continue through early spring. During this time, indoor bloom can also be achieved, provided that adequate growing conditions have been met. As an air plant, growers should ensure that specimens are situated in planters or containers that are specifically made for the growth of epiphytes. Fir bark mixes, or those which have been formulated for use with bromeliad plants or orchids, are often among the best options at planting time. Many indoor gardeners have also found success in growing pink quills through the use of large terrariums. Pink quill bromeliads will not begin to bloom until well established, often taking up to seven years to flower from seed.

Once established in planters, these plants require a location that receives bright, indirect sunlight. Throughout winter, pink quill will appreciate consistent indoor temperatures. As with most houseplants, growers should make certain that the plants are kept away from cold drafts. Proximity to heating vents may also be problematic, as maintaining proper humidity will be key to overall plant health. Most growers agree that these air plants will require frequent misting, usually at least two to three times per week. Gardeners should avoid wetting the growing medium directly, as this may lead to problems with root or crown rot. Frequent monitoring for common indoor pests, like aphids, can also help to keep the plant healthy and looking its best.

Flowering bromeliads are striking, with showy, exotic bloom spikes that appear after they are 12 months of age. Many are tropical plants with distinct sensitivity to the cold, making them appropriate to grow as houseplants.

Neoregelia bromeliads are among the largest category of those that are sensitive to the cold. Size of the grouping may change as hybrids are developed and added. In fact, current categorization research says that hybrids encompass the majority of those available for use.

Not all of them balk at cold temperatures, however, with some bromeliads having cold tolerance as low as 20 degrees F (-6.66 C). If you’re interested in moving your bromeliads outside to grow in the landscape, consider the plants discussed below.

Some Cold Tolerant Bromeliads

A number of cold-hardy bromeliads are found in the genus Puya. Some are in the genus Dyckia, like the well-known Matchstick and another called Queen’s Tears of the genus Aqua.

Normally those with thicker leaves are found to be more cold hardy. Other bromeliads possessing cold hardiness include Red Devil, Nickel Silver, Pale Rider and Dyckia Red.

Information about these plants is limited, often not professionally documented, and sometimes just a guess of what is determined by the growing situation in which they’re found. The warmer temperatures of southern Florida seem to be the unofficial home of many of the plants.

Available data also indicates that interest in growing this plant has increased and spread northward. The areas along warmer parts of the Atlantic coast as far north as the Carolinas are in need of how-to-grow information, like when to begin bromeliad winter care by moving them indoors.

Growing Bromeliads Outdoors

When planting bromeliads in the landscape, identify if the plant is cold hardy or sensitive to the cold. If the nighttime winter temperatures in your area don’t normally fall below 20 degrees, leave the plants in the ground permanently and cover them if temperatures are forecast to drop lower.

Get to know the microclimates in your landscape. Microclimates exist in all yards to some degree as little pockets where temperatures vary. These may allow a few extra degrees of warmth, which can be crucial to a plant's growing temperature. However, those temperatures might be lower, so double check with a thermometer a couple of times before attempting to use this to your advantage.

Experts say that temperatures are always warmer on the higher spots of a slope. Wind chill affects plants as it does people, so offer your plants protection from cold northerly winds. Of course, frost as well as freeze will kill bromeliads. A tree canopy above can offer some protection, as will a roof or other protection. While these can all offer forms of protection, you should continue to cover your plants when frost or freeze is forecast.

Freeze Tolerant Bromeliads

A definite need for comprehensive and accurate data about bromeliads is evident. In general, cold hardiness for bromeliads should be defined by USDA Hardiness Zones but, until this happens, the guessing game of growing them will continue.

The Earth Star bromeliad is an unusual tropical houseplant, of the genus Cryptanthus. You’ve likely seen a few types during your years as a gardener and plant purchaser. There are more than 1200 types of the Earth Star plant, widely varying in colors. 

Some sources say there are as many as 3000 varieties of bromeliads in general, with new ones discovered regularly. Not all are readily available, but many of the favorite types can be found for online ordering.

Earth Star Info

The Cryptanthus Earth Star is commonly referred to as the Starfish plant. Foliage of these plants is usually strap-like and brilliantly colored, often with lateral stripes in bright pink to red and various greens. Colors may also be mottled, spotted, solid color or many other patterns. Foliage grows in a rosette form.

Even with these eye-catching leaves, sources say it is the hidden blooms for which they’re usually grown. Flowers are nestled among the colorful foliage, snuggled in tight atop the rosette. Cryptanthus Earth Star translates to hidden flower.

This type of bromeliad is monocarpic, as are many others. This means the plant flowers once and then dies. As with other monocarps, bromeliads produce several offsets before they die, allowing you to always have a living bromeliad. Remove the offsets (babies) when roots develop and plant them into soil.

The Starfish Plant 

Bromeliads of this genus are different from others in that they’re terrestrial, meaning they grow in rich, moist soil. Other bromeliads grow as epiphytes, on trees, using their small root system as an anchor. 

Native to the mountains and lowlands of southeastern Brazil, around 40 species produce these interesting types there. Often, they’re found growing on the floor of the rainforest. Replicate these conditions as much as possible at your home.

Cryptanthus Care

When growing Earth Star, remember it has a more substantial root system than other bromeliads. 

Grow them in pots that are wider than their depth to offer plenty of room. Keep the soil slightly moist. Differentiate between moist and wet soil. If you must, allow soil to dry out between watering’s to avoid wet soil. Plastic pots hold moisture more readily than terra cotta. 

Soil should be well-draining, while holding moisture to a slight degree. You may purchase soil especially for bromeliads or make your own using coarse sand, peat and perlite. You may fertilize this bromeliad with a weak houseplant mixture, ¼ strength every time you water. When transplanting offsets, work in a granular, time released fertilizer.

Lighting for each Cryptanthus variety differs, but most like a dappled sun area with diffused sunlight coming through for much of the day. Provide humidity to these plants by using a pebble tray, a humidifier, or by including it in a grouping of other plants.

Cryptanthus are easy to grow and make attractive houseplants. Also called the Earth Star plant, for its white star-shaped blooms, these members of the bromeliad family are native to the forests of Brazil. There is one striking difference between Cryptanthus Earth Star and their bromeliad brethren. The Earth Star plant likes to sink its roots into soil while many bromeliads prefer growing on trees, rocks, and cliff faces.

How to Grow Cryptanthus

Cryptanthus plants prefer a well-draining, but moist growing medium. A rich, organic soil works well for most varieties, but gardeners can also use a mix of sand, peat, and perlite. Most varieties remain small and only require a 4- to 6-inch (10-15 cm.) pot. Planter size for larger types of Cryptanthus bromeliads can be determined by matching foliage size to pot width.

Place your potted Earth Star where it can receive levels of light and humidity similar to its native environment on the Brazilian rainforest floor – bright but not direct. They prefer temps around 60 to 85 degrees F. (15-30 C.). A bright spot in the bathroom or kitchen works well for most varieties. Although these bromeliads are tolerant of dry conditions, it's best to keep the soil evenly moist. 

Few problems plague Cryptanthus plants. They are susceptible to root and crown rot issues, especially when kept too wet. Scale, mealybugs, and spider mite populations can quickly escalate on indoor plants due to lack of natural predators. Small numbers can be picked off by hand. Care should be used when applying insecticidal soaps or chemical pesticides on bromeliads.

Propagating Cryptanthus Earth Star

During its lifespan, the Earth Star plant will only flower once. The flowers are sunken in the center of the leaf rosettes and are easily overlooked. Cryptanthus bromeliads can be grown from seed but are more easily propagated from off-set shoots called “pups.” 

These small clones of the parent plant can be detached and gently pressed into a potting soil mix. It's best to wait until the pups have developed roots before removing. After planting, be sure to keep the pups moist as their root systems develop fully.

With over 1,200 varieties of Cryptanthus bromeliads, it's easy to find beautiful specimens for use as houseplants and in terrariums. Many varieties have colorful leaf striping, but others can have crossbanding, spotted, or solid colored foliage. Variegated colors can range from bright reds to silver. The leaves grow in a rosette and often have wavy edges and small teeth. 

When looking for Earth Star plants to cultivate, consider these attractive varieties:

• Black Mystic – Dark greenish black leaves with cream colored banding
• Monty B – Reddish coloration in the center of the leaf rosette with dark green leaf tips
• Pink Star Earth Star – Striped leaves with pink edges and two-toned green centers
• Rainbow Star – Dark green leaves with bright pink edges and zigzag cream banding
• Red Star Earth Star – Green and red striped leaves
• Tricolor – Striped leaves with alternating colors of cream, light green, and pink
• Zebrinus – Zigzag cream colored bands on dark green leaves

Air plants are truly unique additions to your indoor container garden, or if you have a tropical climate, your outdoor garden. Caring for an air plant may seem daunting, but they are actually very low maintenance. Once you understand methods for propagating air plants, your air garden can continue for years.

How Do Air Plants Reproduce?

Air plants, which belong to the genus Tillandsia, reproduce like other flowering plants. They produce flowers, which leads to pollination, and the production of seeds. Air plants also produce offsets-- new, smaller plants that are known as pups.

Air plant pups will form even if the plant has not been pollinated. Without pollination though, there will be no seeds. In the wild birds, bats, insects, and wind pollinate air plants. Some species can self-pollinate, while others require cross pollination with other plants.

Air Plant Propagation

Depending on the species of Tillandsia you grow, your plants may cross or self-pollinate. More likely, you will simply get flowering followed by a batch of between two and eight pups. These will look just like the mother plant, only smaller. Many species bloom just once in their lives, but you can take the pups and propagate them to create new plants.

When air plant pups are between one-third and one-half the size of the mother plant, it’s safe to remove them. Simply separate them, water, and find a new place for the pups to grow into full sized air plants.

If you prefer to keep them together, you can leave the pups in place and get a cluster growing. If your species only flowers once, though, the mother plant will soon die and need to be removed.

If your air plant isn’t happy and is not getting the right growing conditions, it may not produce flowers or pups. Make sure it gets plenty of indirect light and humidity. Keep it warm but away from heaters or vents.

Under these simple conditions, you should be able to propagate your air plants.

One day your air plant looked fabulous and then almost overnight you have what looks like a rotting air plant. There are a couple of other signs, but if your air plant is falling apart, it is likely air plant rot. In effect, your air plant is dying, and it was all preventable. So, what did you do wrong to cause air plant rot?

Is My Air Plant Rotting?

Symptoms of a rotting air plant start as a purplish black color creeping up from the base of the plant into the foliage. The air plant will also begin falling apart, the foliage will begin to drop, or the center of the plant might fall out.

If you see any of these signs, the answer to “is my air plant rotting?” is a resounding, yes. The question is, what can you do about it? Unfortunately, if your air plant is falling apart, there is little to be done. On the upside, if the air plant rot is confined to the outer leaves, you can try to save the plant by removing the infected leaves and then following a strict watering and drying routine.

Why Does My Air Plant Rot?

When an air plant is dying of rot, it all comes down to watering, or more specifically, drainage. Air plants need to be watered by either misting or soaking in water, but they do not like to stay wet. Once the plant has been soaked or misted, it needs to be allowed to dry. If the center of the plant remains wet, fungus takes hold and that’s it for the plant.

Once you are done watering your air plant, whichever way you water, be sure to tilt the plant so it can drain and leave it for about four hours to really dry off. A dish drainer is a great way to accomplish this or upending the plant on a dish towel will work as well.

Keep in mind that different varieties of air plant have different watering needs, but all should not be left submerged for lengthy periods of time. Lastly, if your air plant is in a terrarium or other container, leave the lid off to provide good air flow and minimize the chances of a rotting air plant.

Air plants are low maintenance members of the Bromeliad family in the genus Tillandsia. Air plants are epiphytes that root themselves to the branches of trees or shrubs rather than in the soil. In their natural habitat, they derive their nutrients from the moist, humid air.

When grown as houseplants, they need a regular misting or dousing in water, but do air plants need fertilizer? If so, what type of air plant fertilizer is used when feeding air plants?

Do Air Plants Need Fertilizer?

It is not necessary to fertilize air plants, but feeding air plants does have some benefits. Air plants only bloom once in their lifetime and after blooming produce “pups” or small offsets from the mother plant.

Feeding air plants encourages blooming and, thus, reproduction of new offsets, making new plants.

How to Fertilize Air Plants

Air plant fertilizer may either be air plant specific, for bromeliads, or even diluted houseplant fertilizer.

To fertilize air plants with regular house plant fertilizer, use a water-soluble food at ¼ the recommended strength. Fertilize the same time that you water them by adding the diluted fertilizer to the irrigation water either by misting or soaking in water.

Fertilize air plants once a month as part of their regular irrigation to promote healthy plants that will bloom, producing additional new plants.

Aechmea bromeliad plants are members of the Bromeliaceae family, a large group of plants that includes at least 3,400 species. One of the most popular, Aechmea, is an evergreen with rosettes of distinctive variegated or banded leaves of silvery grey, often with spiny edges. A stunning, long lasting, bright pink flower grows in the center of the plant.

In spite of their exotic appearance, growing an Aechmea bromeliad is actually very simple. Read on and learn how to grow Aechmea bromeliads.

Aechmea Bromeliad Info

These plants are epiphytic. In their natural environment they grow on trees, rocks, or other plants. Aechmea bromeliad care can be achieved by mimicking this environment or by growing in containers.

The plants do well in a container filled with a potting mix that drains quickly, such as a combination of half commercial potting soil and half small bark chips. An orchid potting mix also works well. Large plants can be top heavy and should be in a sturdy pot that isn’t easily tipped.

Place your Aechmea bromeliad plant in indirect light or moderate shade, but not in direct sunlight. Temperature should be at least 55 degrees F. (13 C.). Keep the cup in the central rosette about half full of water at all times; however, don’t keep it completely full, as it may rot, especially during the winter months. Empty the cup every month or two so the water doesn’t become stagnant.

Additionally, water the potting soil well every month or two, or whenever the soil is somewhat dry, depending on temperature and humidity in your home. Decrease water during the winter months and keep the soil on the dry side.

Rinse the leaves at least once every year, or more if you notice buildup on the leaves. It’s also a good idea to mist the leaves lightly once in a while.

Fertilize the plants lightly every six weeks when the plant is actively growing in spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer mixed to one quarter strength. Don’t feed the plant during the winter months.

Neoregelia bromeliad plants are the largest of the 56 genera into which these plants are categorized. Possibly, the showiest of bromeliads, their colorful leaves produce brilliant shades when located in a bright light situation. Although some grow without direct sun, most require full sun for the best color. Identify your specific bromeliad and research which lighting is most appropriate for it.

Neoregelia Bromeliad Varieties

Diverse and interesting patterns of the Neoregelia varieties have caused them to be the most hybridized, adding even more plants to the category. Neoregelia bromeliad facts advise this is one of the more compact of the group and typically grows in rosette form, mostly flat and spreading. Cups, called tanks, form in the center of this plant. Neoregelia bromeliad flowers emerge briefly from these tanks.

Likely, the most well-known of this type is the Neoregelia carolinae, or those that look similar. The plant has a sizeable rosette of bright green leaves, banded in white with a red tank. The tank looks as though a can of red paint was poured over it. Brief blooms are violet.

“Tricolor” is similar, with yellowish to whitish bands and stripes. When the plant is ready to flower, some bands become red. This one has a lilac bloom.

Neoregelia “Fireball” is a beautiful dark red to burgundy shade when grown in full sun. This is a dwarf plant. Less than full sun can cause the plant to revert to green. Cups become pink before the violet blooms appear. Overwinter indoors in colder areas.

About Neoregelia Bromeliad Plants

Water bromeliads with distilled or rainwater only. Don’t water the soil. Water goes into the cups that form on the plant. The tank should be kept filled with water at all times. Bromeliads also like humidity.

Most Neoregelia are monocarpic, meaning they flower once and die. Blooms sometimes appear after two years or longer, whenever the plant is in optimum conditions. Normally, by the time they flower, they have produced pups that can be separated to produce a full-size plant. When removing an offset from a Neoregelia, be sure to take some roots along with the pup.

Most bromeliads are epiphytes, living in the trees rather than soil. A few are lithophytes, meaning they live on rocks. They photosynthesize like other plants and use their small root system as an anchor. Water is absorbed largely through the leaves from the air.

Soil for bromeliads does not provide nutrition and should not be used to provide moisture in most cases. As such, if you use a growing mix to anchor your plant, it should not contain soil unless your specific bromeliad is terrestrial. Bark chips, coarse sand, and peat in equal parts are an appropriate mix.

One of the more fascinating plant forms are the bromeliads. Their rosette arranged foliage and brightly colored blooms make for a unique and easy houseplant. They are relatively easy to grow with low maintenance needs, but there are a few common bromeliad issues. Although problems with bromeliads aren’t usual, they do occur, especially when grown outdoors in warm regions. A few tips on the most frequent issues and their cures can help your plant feel better in no time.

What’s Wrong with My Bromeliad?

Bromeliads are extremely resilient plants. Their cultural requirements are very simple, few pests bother them, and they thrive in indoor light. Bromeliad plant problems usually start with water. Too much or too little can affect the health of the plant and promote disease. We'll go over the three most common bromeliad plant issues.

Water Related Problems

Watering is a very important part of bromeliad care. Too little and the plant dries out, too much and they are prone to stem rot. Stem rot is probably the most common problem with bromeliads. They are also prone to several other fungal issues.

• Besides root and crown rot, Pythium causes wilting, blanching, and eventually dark, mushy roots.
• Rust disease produces brownish welts filled with liquid on the undersides of leaves.
• Helminthosporium leaf spot results in yellowish blisters that become dark and sunken as they age.

Good care and avoiding insect or mechanical injury can prevent most fungal issues.

Pest Related Bromeliad Plant Problems

If plants are sited correctly and are receiving good care, you may wonder, “What’s wrong with my bromeliad?”. If you are growing outdoors or you brought a plant inside, you could have an insect infestation.

• Aphids are soft-bodied insects that suck plant juices and causes stippling of the leaves.
• Mealybugs will leave a cottony substance, usually at the base of leaves.
• Scale are soft or hard bodied insects that often appear to have an armor.

Any of these can be treated by wiping the leaves with a cotton ball soaked in alcohol. Horticultural soap sprays or neem oil are also effective, as is rinsing off the plant.

Cultural Issues

Plants in full sun will dry out too quickly. While bromeliads don't like boggy soil, they are native to rainforests and need adequate moisture. Another common problem with siting plants in full sun is sunburn. Leaf tips are affected first and will turn brown to black. Light brown spots will also appear on the leaves.

Bromeliads are very sensitive to copper. If using a fungicide, make sure it is copper-free. Tap water may contain minerals that can adversely affect the health of your plant. Consider using rain or distilled water. Keep the cup or vase of the rosette filled with water but flush it monthly to avoid the buildup of salts.

Soil should be allowed to dry out between watering. Use a potting mixture formulated for bromeliads that will not retain water.

Queen’s tears bromeliad (Bilbergia nutans) is a rainbow-colored tropical plant that produces upright clumps of trumpet-shaped, grayish green leaves. Arching stems bear pink bracts and lime green petals rimmed in royal blue. Each long-lasting flower displays a long yellow stamen. Also known as friendship plant, Queen’s tears bromeliads multiply readily and are easily propagated for sharing. Read on to learn how to grow a queen’s tears plant.

Growing Queen’s Tears Plants

Native to South America, queen’s tears is an epiphytic plant that grows primarily on trees but is also found growing on forest floors. It absorbs most of its moisture and nutrients through the flowers and leaves and not from the shallow roots. To grow queen’s tears indoors, plant it in a container filled with potting mix formulated for bromeliads or orchids. If you want to propagate queen’s tears for sharing, separate an offshoot from a mature plant with a sterile knife or razor blade. Plant the offshoot in its own pot. For best results, the offshoot should be at least one-third the height of the parent plant. Place the plant in bright, indirect light throughout most of the year, but move it into light shade during the summer.

Caring for Queen’s Tears

The following tips on queen’s tears plant care will help ensure healthy growth: Queen’s tears bromeliads are relatively drought tolerant. Water frequently during the summer, providing just enough to keep the soil slightly moist but never drenched. Like most bromeliads, you can also fill upward-facing cups with water. Water sparingly throughout winter, early spring, and autumn – just enough to keep the soil from becoming bone dry. Mist the foliage lightly every few days. Queen’s tears bromeliads require warm temperatures of 65 to 80 degrees F. (18-27 C.) during the summer months and slightly cooler temperatures of 60 to 75 degrees F. (16-24 C.) throughout the remainder of the year. Add a water-soluble fertilizer to the irrigation water once every other week during the summer. Use the mixture to moisten the soil, fill the cups, or mist the leaves. Fertilize the plant only once per month during the remainder of the year. Queen’s tears bromeliads usually flower in spring, but stubborn plants can be prompted to bloom by adding a healthy pinch of Epsom salts to the water one time in early spring.

One of the more fun aspects of bromeliads is their ability to produce pups, or offsets. These are the babies of the plant, which primarily reproduces vegetatively. A bromeliad needs to reach maturity before producing its lovely flower, which lasts many months. After the bloom is gone, the plant produces pups. Some tips on how to grow bromeliad pups can get you started on a whole crop of these amazing plants.

Bromeliad Propagation

Bromeliads are popular tropical looking houseplants, or outdoor plants in warm regions. The most commonly sold forms develop a cup at the center of the rosette which holds water. Many also form a brightly colored flower that dies after a few months. 

At this time, pup starts from bromeliad begin to form. You can carefully divide these away from the parent plant and have a new bromeliad that will flower and pup after a few years. Bromeliads can be grown from seed, but it requires two plants to cross to produce sexually viable seed. 

Seeds are sown in moist sphagnum moss or sterile potting medium. The medium and seeds must be kept moist in a warm location to sprout. A quicker and easier method of bromeliad propagation is by division. This means waiting until pups form and gently cutting them away from the dying parent. 

Pup starts from bromeliad adults will not flower for up to three years, but it is half the time it would take for plants grown from seed and is so easy to do, so why not?

How to Grow Bromeliad Pups

The first step to growing pups is to get them off of the mother plant. The longer pups remain on the parent, the earlier they will reach maturity and flower. That means tolerating a dying parent plant whose leaves will yellow and eventually brown. This is a natural process and no cause to worry, as the parent is putting all its energy into propagating through the pups. 

Most bromeliad parents can produce several pups. Wait until the parent plant is looking fairly dead before harvesting offsets. The pups should be a third to a half the size of the parent before division. You may begin to see roots on pups, but even if they have not formed roots, mature pups can survive since they are epiphytic. Once they are big enough, it is time for harvesting and planting bromeliad pups.

Bromeliad Pup Planting

Use a sterile, sharp knife to remove the pups. It is often best to remove the mother from the container to better see where to make cuts. Cut the pup away from the parent, taking a small amount of the parent along with the offset. Use a good, moist peat mixture for planting bromeliad pups. 

The container should be twice as big as the base of the pup. If the pup has no roots, you can tie it to a cork board or even a branch. Let the medium dry out a bit before watering the pup in its tiny cup. If the mother plant still looks lively enough, repot and care for her as usual. With a little luck, she may produce more pups before she is gone.

One of the greatest things about bromeliads are their flowers. The flowers can stay blooming for months, but eventually they fade and die. This doesn't mean the plant is dying; it just means the plant is focusing energy on the leaves and roots. Do bromeliads flower once and never again? Some bromeliads bloom regularly while others don't. Getting bromeliads to rebloom takes the patience of a saint, some time and the right variety.

Care of Bromeliads after Flowering

Bromeliads often come with their amazing flowers in bloom. These wonderful inflorescences last for months and the plant itself thrives with minimal care in bright indirect light. It is always sad to watch the bloom die, especially since the plant itself probably will not bloom. 

However, there is light at the end of the tunnel. With good bromeliad care after flowering, the plant will produce pups. Only mature bromeliads bloom; therefore, you can wait until a pup matures and enjoy the same flower spike. Bromeliads are denizens of tropical rainforests. 

They are epiphytic in nature and reproduce vegetatively by forming offsets or pups. Once the unique flower is spent, you should remove it so the plant can spend its energy on forming pups. Bromeliad care after flowering is much the same while it was in flower. The leaves form a cup in which you can pour water.

Occasionally change the water in the cup and rinse the area to remove any salt or mineral build up. From spring until the dormant season in winter, mix a half dosage of liquid fertilizer every 2 months applied to the soil, not to the cup.

Care of bromeliads after flowering is focused on getting vegetative growth and new pups so you can separate them for future blooming plants.

Getting Bromeliads to Rebloom

Bromeliad flowers are such unexpected forms and colors. When the blooms are spent, the plant is still spectacular, but you miss the vibrant flower tones. Do bromeliads flower once? Yes, they do. It takes a mature plant to flower and once it does, it produces offsets and the main plant gradually begins to die. It can take years, but eventually all you will have left is its offspring. 

Luckily, each of these can be divided away, potted up and grown for a few years to maturity. If you are lucky, these will produce the same bloom as the parent plant. It is quite a long time to wait, but may well be worth it since these plants need little special care. Use sterile scissors or a knife to divide the pup away from the parent. You should wait to do this until the offset is a third the size of the parent. 

If necessary, you can trim back the parent plant's leaves to allow more room for the pup to grow. Remove pups in spring for best results. Allow the wound to callus for one week. Mix a batch of medium with equal parts bark nuggets, perlite and peat. Insert the cut end of the pup and any roots into the medium.

The pup may need support for the first few weeks as more extensive roots are grown. Otherwise, the same care you gave the parent will produce a healthy plant. To help it bloom, you can add time release fertilizer in spring around the soil medium.

What is it about air plants (Tillandsia) that make them so fascinating? Air plants are epiphytic plants, which means that unlike most other plants, their survival doesn’t depend on soil. Instead, they draw moisture and nutrients through their leaves. Although air plant care is minimal, the plant can sometimes begin to look sickly – shriveled, limp, brown, or droopy. Can you revive an air plant in this condition? Yes, at least if the plant isn’t too far gone. Read on to learn about reviving a Tillandsia.

How to Revive an Air Plant

Why do my air plants keep dying? If your Tillandsia isn’t looking its best, especially if it’s shriveled or brown, there’s a good chance that the plant is extremely thirsty. Although misting the plant is often recommended, spritzing usually doesn’t provide enough moisture to keep the plant healthy and hydrated. If you determine that this is the case, reviving a Tillandsia means returning the plant to a healthy, well-hydrated state. The easiest way to accomplish this is to soak the entire plant in a bowl or bucket of lukewarm water. You may need to tie the plant to a heavy object to keep it from floating to the top of the water. Place the bowl in a warm location and let it soak for 12 hours. Remove the plant from the bowl, place it on a layer of paper towels, and allow it to air dry before returning the plant to its regular location. If the plant continues to look dry and sickly, repeat the procedure, but this time leave the Tillandsia submerged for only about four hours. Hold the plant upside-down and shake gently to remove excess moisture from the leaves.

Air Plant Care

To keep a Tillandsia well hydrated, soak the plant in a bowl of warm water for an hour every week during the summer, decreasing to once every three weeks during the winter months (some people find that a 10-minute soak is enough, so watch your plant closely to determine its particular needs. If the plant begins to look swollen, it’s absorbing too much water and will benefit from a shorter bath.). Place your air plant in bright, indirect or filtered sunlight from spring until fall. Move it into direct light during the winter months. You may need to supplement winter sunlight with full spectrum artificial lights for about 12 hours per day. Ensure Tillandsia receives adequate air circulation. If your air plant is in a container, uncover the container and place it in an airy location. Alternatively, remove the Tillandsia from the container for a full day every week. Always shake excess water off your Tillandsia after watering, then allow it to dry in a colander or on a layer of paper towels. The plant can be damaged if water is allowed to remain on the leaves. If your Tillandisa is in a sea shell, empty the shell as needed to be sure the plant isn’t sitting in water. Feed Tillandisa a bromeliad fertilizer twice a month. Alternatively, apply a regular, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to one-quarter strength, or orchid food highly diluted at a rate of one pinch per gallon of water.

Bromeliads are fun, tough little plants that have become popular as houseplants. The Dyckia group of bromeliads primarily comes from Brazil. What are Dyckia plants? These are semi-succulent rosettes that may produce some astounding flower spikes. Some of the varieties are terrestrial while others are found on rocks in their native range. They have remarkable drought tolerance for short periods of time and can even withstand a brief freeze. All in all, growing these plants is easy and rewarding, but a little Dyckia plant info should put you on the path to guaranteed success.

What are Dyckia Plants?

Dyckia are bromeliads sharing that group’s characteristic rosette shape. They are not technically succulents, as they do not store water in their leaves, but they do have similar thick, waxy foliage. Dyckia are xeriscape plants and can withstand long periods without moisture. The leaves vary from long and strappy to short and scalloped. All foliage is fairly rigid and may be smooth or serrated and a solid color or variegated or spotted. Long stalks with multiple red, yellow, or orange flowers appear in spring. The wide range of varieties ensures that there is a specimen for every taste. In addition to Brazil, these bromeliads are also found in Uraguay, Paraguay, Argentina, and Bolivia. A bonus bit of Dyckia plant info; the genus is named for Prince von Salm-Kyck, an amateur collector of succulents.

Dyckia Growing Conditions

Most of the plants we cultivate in the group Dyckia are from Brazil. They survive in warm regions with heavy rainfall for half the year and very dry conditions the rest of the time. This makes Dyckia care slightly challenging, as getting the right balance of moisture to keep the plant happy may be difficult. Dyckia growing conditions in their natural setting should be mimicked as much as possible. Try growing Dyckia plants outside in summer or year-round in warmer regions. In their native region, it is not uncommon to find some forms of Dyckia growing on top of rocks near the water. Water and the cycle of the monsoon season are important features to Dyckia health. They are used to rather poor soil when they do grow in-ground and should be planted in a good succulent mixture. Dyckia need full sun and temperatures of up to 90 degrees F. (32 C.) to thrive. Beware of exposing the plants to freezing temperatures for more than a brief time as they are not cold hardy. Temperatures below 40 degrees F. (4 C.) seem to be the limit of Dyckia growing conditions. Dyckia are exposed to harsh sun and very dry conditions for most of the year. Then the rainy season appears, and the plants are half-drowned. Contrary to common sense, they seem to love this treatment and plants are healthiest when the monsoon season is harsh and long.

Dyckia Bromeliad Care

While actively growing, the plants need regular water to produce happy plants. The soil should not be soggy but evenly moist at all times. Use a saucer under potted plants to keep the roots from sitting in water but allow for evaporation and consistent humidity. In winter, when growth is dormant, you may reduce the amount of water by half. Fertilize from spring to fall with a half-strength liquid plant food. In the wild, the plants form pups or offsets, which result in new plants. The same is true in container grown plants and these can be divided away from the parent with ease. The plants set seed readily when flowers are present, and these germinate quickly. However, they also freely hybridize and the species resulting from the seed may not represent the parent. There are very few cautions or surprises with Dyckia bromeliad care. They are unfussy, hardy little plants that thrive even in slightly neglectful conditions.

Bromeliads are fairly common houseplants with a tropical feel and an unusual, fun growth form. There are over 50 varieties of Hechtia bromeliads, most of which are native to Mexico. What is Hechtia? Hechtia is a terrestrial plant with characteristic rosette form of most bromeliads. One of the more interesting pieces of Hechtia plant info is that is has traits similar to succulents but is not a true succulent. However, Hechtia are drought tolerant and have amazing cold resistance for warm region plants.

What is Hechtia?

There are approximately 56 genera in the Bromeliad family. Hechtia are in the sub-family Pitcairnioideae, and are wonderful little examples of the plant form. They are most commonly grown indoors or in greenhouses, but some regions can support outdoor growth so long as the plants aren't subjected to temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-6 C.). These small bromeliads thrive from Texas into Mexico and Central America. They occur in areas with cactus and other succulents where soils are harsh and arid. The thick, waxy leaves are sword-like and radiate from a central point in a rosette. Leaf edges may have some serration. The genus comes in a rainbow of colors both in foliage and in flower. Leaves may be tinged with bronze, gold, red, purple, and pink. Flowers are born on erect stalks and are usually white but may be pink or yellow. Plants grow slowly but some forms may eventually achieve 5 feet (1.5 m.) in width and have a flower stalk of 8 feet (2.5 m.) in height.

Hechtia Plant Info

The first ingredient for growing Hechtia plants is well draining soil. Their native region is sandy, rocky, and generally low in fertility. Plants collect dew and rainwater in the cup-like core formed by the leaves. You can easily grow the plants from seed, but with their slow growth rate, you will be waiting years for an adequately sized plant. A better way is to divide off the pups produced at the base of the mother plant. This is valuable Hechtia plant info, as it can cut in half the growing time for recognizable plants. Use good thick gloves to pull away the pup, as they are protected by sharp spines. Hechtia bromeliad care is similar to any bromeliad. Use a succulent mix for growing Hechtia plants. Pups should be potted up in a mixture of peat and perlite until the young bromeliad has a good root system. Bright light and warm daytime temperatures with nightly temperatures 10 to 20 degrees lower will produce the best growth.

Hectia Bromeliad Care

Caring for Hechtia plants in containers requires careful moisture management. Overwatering can cause the plant to rot at the base and under watering limits growth. During spring and summer, water the plant regularly but reduce watering in fall and winter as the plant becomes dormant. Lighting is a crucial part of caring for Hechtia plants. They require a full day of bright sunlight but can survive in a 50 percent shady environment. Lower light levels will affect the rate of growth, flower production, and leaf color. As a plant that lives in low fertility soil, Hechtia doesn't really need fertilizing. Feed the plant in spring and maybe one more time in early summer for quicker growth. Unlike most succulents, Hechtia likes a large pot and doesn't do well when cramped. If the season is hot and dry, increase humidity by placing the pot on a saucer filled with small stones and water. Hechtia is an easy plant to care for and one that will surprise you year after year.

A new owner of Tillandsia may wonder, "Can you water an air plant too much?" How often to mist air plants depends upon the type, the situation, and the size of the plant as well as the environment. There are three main ways to keep your air plant moist. Once you know all three, you can decide which way will work best for your plant. This article will tell you the methods and how often to mist air plants. Then you will be on your way to healthy, happy Tillandsia of any variety.

Can You Water an Air Plant Too Much?

Tillandsia, or air plants, are one of the more unique forms of flora on our planet. Air plants are often thought to require no water because they harness it from the air and occasional rain storms. In their native regions, this is almost true but in the home setting, ambient air is too arid and no sudden storms will pass by. Tillandsia need regular moisture but should not be overwatered. This can pose a problem with mounted air plants, but we'll walk through a couple of methods of keeping your plant moist. Air plants are bromeliads and epiphytic. They tend to grow on logs, in cracks and crevasses, and even off live plants, although they are not parasitic. They are most common in tropical forest settings, although a few live in more arid climates. Just like any plant, air plants need regular water, light, and food. They are trickier than other houseplants because they are in a soilless environment, often mounted on something or inside a terrarium or glass bowl. The lack of media to hold moisture and nutrients poses a dilemma on how to keep them healthy. Air plant misting is the most common method of watering but it doesn't get plant roots really well moistened and can cause leaves to have fungal issues if the plant isn't in good ventilation where leaves dry quickly. Spraying air plants is best to increase humidity in really dry homes and climates.

How Do I Water an Air Plant?

The method of watering will depend upon the style of installation of your air plant. There are three main ways to water Tillandsia. Misting is the first, rinsing the second, and soaking the third. Now the last two will obviously not work on a mounted specimen unless the mount is safe to have wet.

• How often to mist air plants? In this case, mist the plants 3 to 7 times a week, depending how dry your home air is and what time of year. Summertime plants need more water while they can sustain on less in winter.
• Rinsing the plants requires you to remove them from their mount and place them in a sieve to be rinsed thoroughly. All parts need to well soaked, including foliage and roots.
• Soaking is the more thorough method but, again, requires removing the plant from its display. Soak the plant 1 or 2 times per week for 5 hours.

When Spraying Air Plants is Most Beneficial

Air plant misting is not the most effective method of watering the plants but it is the most convenient because it allows you to provide moisture in the plant's setting. Otherwise, you will have to remove the wire that holds the plant on its display and rinse or soak to really get moisture into the roots. In winter, when water needs are lower, misting is an adequate way to give the plant the minimum amount of water. Additionally, in summer when temperatures soar, a nice water bath in the form of spraying will refresh heat-stressed plants. If you want your air plant really healthy, however, misting is just not going to do a good enough job providing moisture. Dunk or soak your plant at least two times per month if you are primarily misting to give it moisture. This can provide the deep water intake the plant needs to sustain in its aerial setting.

Bromeliads can be found clinging to trees and cracks in cliffs in some regions. But even if you aren't lucky enough to see them in their wild state, bromeliads are commonly grown as houseplants and easy to find at nurseries and garden centers. They usually come in bloom and the spectacular flower lasts a few weeks or up to a month. Do bromeliads only flower once? Yes. Getting bromeliads to bloom again isn't possible, but the plant produces a next generation of bloomers called offsets that will.

Will Bromeliad Bloom Again?

Epiphytes are plants with gripping roots that hold the plant onto its chosen surface. This surface may be tree bark, rock or even cement. In indigenous terrain, you can see epiphytic bromeliads literally swinging from the trees. They produce fascinating and colorful flowers, called an inflorescence, surrounded by rosettes of thick green to silver leaves. Reblooming a bromeliad won't work because they only produce one flower in the plant's lifetime. Bromeliads grow in a rosette with a cup-like depression at the center. This depression is responsible for collecting nutrients and water. Unlike most plants, the roots of a bromeliad are mostly for adherence purposes and do not uptake the plant's needs. Rainwater and dew fall into the cup and other plant litter, small insects and organic material end up in the depression, serving as a source of minerals. The rosette grows by adding new leaves in the center, which becomes impossible after the flower has bloomed. For this reason, increased growth is done through separate plantlets at the base, or offsets, and the adult bromeliad won't flower again.

Getting Bromeliads to Bloom

Although the adult bromeliad won't bloom, with a little tender loving care, those pups or offsets will flower eventually.

• First, they need their own home and some encouragement. Separate the offsets from the parent plant with a sharp, clean knife at the base.
• Leave the offset out on the counter for a day or two to callus before planting. Use a well draining soil mix.
• Keep the center of the bromeliad filled with water and add diluted liquid seaweed or diluted compost tea once every two weeks. This will encourage the young bromeliad to flourish and grow up so it can be ready to bloom.
• Only mature plants will flower, so a little patience is required when getting bromeliads to bloom from pups.

Forcing a Bromeliad to Bloom Sooner

Reblooming a bromeliad adult isn't possible but a few tips will see those young offsets in bloom sooner.

• Add some dissolved Epsom salts to the cup once per month to encourage the production of chlorophyll and flowers.
• Forcing a bromeliad to bloom also requires an appropriate environment. Empty the depression in the plant and encase it in a large plastic bag accompanied by a slice of apple, kiwi or banana. These fruits give off ethylene gas, which will help force the plant into bloom.
• Keep the plant in the bag for 10 days and then remove the covering. The plant should bloom in six to 10 weeks with a little luck.

Low maintenance plants are hard to find. Tillandsias offer a unique form, ease of care, and just a fun way to bring the outdoors into your home. Tillandsia sky plant (Tillandsia ionantha) is a superior specimen that doesn't require traditional pot and soil combinations. This member of the Bromeliad family will grow epiphytically on a variety of organic surfaces. Learn how to grow a Tillandsia for a family-friendly plant that will make you look differently at plant presentation and care.

Sky Plant Bromeliads

Bromeliads are found in most areas of the world but are mostly tropical to subtropical plants. They grow without root support in soil and can even be found in habitat hanging from trees. Tillandsia sky plant is a member of this family and produces a rosette form of leaves that funnel to a central core. The plant is native from Mexico to Nicaragua and naturally grows on trees and even rock faces. Sky plant bromeliads are easy to grow and make interesting presentations on bark or logs. If you are lucky and provide a good climate and care of Tillandsia, it will reward you with purple flowers or bracts in winter.

Care of Tillandsia

Once you get your air plant mounted, the Tillandsia sky plant is one of the easiest plants to maintain. They are usually sold already mounted, but if not, you can attach the plant at its base to a cork bark form, branch, or even shell. You can also place it freely into a terrarium or wedged among some rocks. The key to growing the sky plant is humidity. Mist the plant daily or place sky plant bromeliads in the kitchen or bathroom, where humidity is naturally high. Temperatures should be at least 60 F. (16 C.), but temps around 50 F. (10 C.). in winter will help force flowering. Fertilize weekly with a half dilution of household plant fertilizer applied as a foliar mist. These plants perform best in indirect but bright light.

How to Grow Tillandsia to Share

The propagation of Tillandsia is simple. Growing sky plant from offshoots or “pups” is the best way to create new plants. Pups grow at the base of the mother plant. When they are half the size of the parent, use a sharp knife to divide the pup from the original growth. Plant it in the same manner by fixing to a board, or baby it for a while in a peat mix until the plant is healthy and ready for mounting. You can mount plants with glue, wire, or even just temporarily fix them with paperclips until roots grow into the substrate or mounting form.

Guzmania Houseplant Care And Growing Guide

There are about 120 species of Guzmania bromeliads. Guzmania grows in a rosette form with pointed leaves and a cup-like center where the plants collect water. The plants produce astounding deeply colored blooms and the leaves can also be quite colorful. Bromeliads are fairly common houseplants, although they are epiphytic, which means they grow in trees and rock crevasses in their native range. There are a few secrets to Guzmania care, but mostly this is a fuss-free houseplant.

Quick Facts

• Botanical name:
• Guzmania lingulata
• Height: 3 feet (.91 m.)
• Spread: 2 feet (.61 m.)
• Sun exposure: Filtered light
• Soil requirements: Well draining
• Hardiness zones: USDA 11
• When to plant: Outdoors in spring

Guzmania Care

Most bromeliads are sold when they are in bloom, and the flower is something you can’t pass up. Technically, what we think is the flower is actually colorful bracts or modified leaves. The true bromeliad flowers are generally white, small, and unremarkable, but flanked by the colorful bracts. The flower lasts for months but when it dies, the parent plant will die. However, the bromeliads produce pups, which makes the plant evergreen.

Light

Most of the Guzmania plant species are native to Florida and tropical America. Depending on the species, the plant may prefer full sun to partial shade. Filtered, indirect light in the home is preferable to most of these species. The bromeliad Guzmania plant is often found in the understory of a tropical forest, where it forms in tree crotches. The trees create a naturally dappled light that most Guzmania species prefer.

Water

While you can water the plant at the soil level, most bromeliads may be watered by pouring the liquid into the “cup” or “tank” formed by the rosette. Periodically, flush the cup until old water pours out. The soil may be left fairly dry as long as the cup has water. In the winter, the cup can be allowed to dry out for longer periods. Bromeliads can be sensitive to some municipal water sources. Use distilled or demineralized water for best results, or let your tap water off-gas on the counter for a day before adding it to the plant.

Temperature & Humidity

These are tropical plants and have no cold tolerance. Optimal temperatures are between 60-85 degrees Fahrenheit (15.56-30 C.). They are hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 9-12 and can be brought outside in a partially shaded location in summer. Mist the plant in the summer to add humidity to the air. The plant’s container could also be placed on a saucer filled with pebbles and water. As the water evaporates, it will moisten the air around the plant.

Soil

The bromeliad Guzmania needs well-draining soil. An orchid soil with bark will do nicely. The key is to have a nice porous medium which will drain well and allow oxygen to the roots. Make up your own mixture with 1 part peat moss, 1 part bark, and 1 part vermiculite. Some species, especially the smaller ones, can be grown without soil, bound to a piece of wood with sphagnum moss which is kept misted.

Fertilizer

Feed the plant a couple times during the year with a diluted by half with houseplant or bromeliad food. You can spray the leaves with this mixture, as well. Do not fertilize in summer when the plant is dormant and not actively growing.

Problems, Pests & Diseases

The most common problem when caring for Guzmania is overwatering the soil. The roots of this plant will rot if the soil is kept moist. Allow the soil to dry out before adding moisture. Occasionally leaf spots will show up on leaves that get too much moisture on the surface. Avoid watering the leaves when filling the tank. Plants grown outside in summer may be plagued by mealybugs, scale, and aphids.

Pruning

When the main plant dies after the flower is gone, use a sharp, clean tool to gently prize it away from the pups. You can remove damaged or dead leaves at any time of the year by pulling them or cutting them away from the main body.

Propagation

Guzmania lingulata and its cousins will form offsets or pups. These are initially smaller rosettes that develop at the side of the parent plant. You may want to divide these and pot them up separately.

Repotting

If the soil becomes compacted, replace the soil with fresh medium. Guzmania bromeliads don’t mind being pot-bound and do not need a larger container very often. Be careful of the tender roots when you remove the plant from the old soil and gently pack the new medium around them.

Overwintering

These are not cold hardy plants and should be brought indoors for winter. As soon as nighttime temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15.56 C.) take them inside until spring temperatures warm.

Varieties

With 120 varieties it’s hard to list them all. Some of the more common are:

G. lingulata

G. monostachia

G. conifera

Frequently Asked Questions

• How Long Do Guzmania Flowers Last?The flowers of these amazing plants can last 2 or even 5 years depending upon their culture and variety.
• Is a Guzmania Plant Happier Indoors or Outdoors?Depending where you live the plants may grow in either location. But they are not frost-hardy; they need plenty of humidity, and shelter from the sun. In Florida, where they are native, they can be grown outside all year round. In a cold climate, they are best grown indoors.

The flaming sword houseplant, Vriesea splendens, is one of the most common bromeliads used for indoor decoration and is one of the showiest. You may already have one in your houseplant collection and wonder how to grow flaming sword plants. Vriesea flaming sword info says there are 250 varieties, providing a range of color in both foliage and colorful bracts. The flaming sword houseplant is commonly named for its red bracts that appear when the plant is three to five years old. It is an epiphyte in its native habitat.

How to Grow Flaming Sword Plants

The flaming sword houseplant grows best in a one to one mix of regular potting soil and orchid mix. Special soil for bromeliads is sometimes available at the local garden center. Vriesea flaming sword info indicates a special display for the plant can eliminate the need for growing in soil. Attach the plant to a slab or large piece of bark reminiscent of its native habitat to provide an interesting display.

Care of Vriesea Plants

Locate the flaming sword houseplant in bright, indirect light indoors. Allow some direct morning or evening sun in winter, if possible. Care of Vriesea plants includes keeping them in temperatures above 60 degrees F. (16 C.), but no warmer than 80 degrees F. (27 C.). 

As with other bromeliads, the flaming sword houseplant has a cup or tank in the middle of the plant. Keep this cup filled with water. Vriesea flaming sword info says watering for this plant should be minimal. Soil should be no more than lightly moist and never allowed to completely dry out. 

The top half of the plant can be allowed to dry out between waterings. This bromeliad does, however, like high humidity. Mist the plant frequently or place it on a pebble tray indoors or near the company of other houseplants that transpire. Fifty percent humidity is necessary for optimum performance of Vriesea flaming sword.

More Vriesea Flaming Sword Info

The flaming sword houseplant blooms just once and begins to decline, but it provides more plants before passing away, as small offsets called pups can be removed from the mother plant. Sever pups when they are one-half to two-thirds the size of the mother plant. Thus, the process begins again. In three to five years you can expect blooming bracts on the babies and another round of pups to propagate.

The variegated pineapple plant is grown for its foliage, not its fruit. The gorgeous bright red, green, and cream striped leaves are held rigidly off a low stem. Their bright fruit is attractive but rather bitter. The plants make lovely and interesting houseplants or warm season potted outdoor plants. The pineapple flowering houseplant is a bromeliad and requires similar care. Care for the variegated pineapple is the same as an edible pineapple, but don't expect fruiting overnight. Both types can take up to five years to produce fruit.

Pineapple Bromeliad Varieties

Bromeliads are a family of sometimes stemless, sometimes epiphytic plants. They may also be grown in an almost soil-free environment made up of other materials such as sand, peat, and bark. Bromeliads are common in warm areas with high humidity. There are hundreds of varieties of pineapple. Not all of them produce a yellow fleshed fruit armored in green. There are also red and blue varieties. The best pineapple bromeliad varieties for home growers are the miniature types. These plants are easier to keep to container size, so you can move them in and protect them in case of freezing weather.

Variegated Pineapple Plant

Pineapples are only hardy in USDA zones 10 to 11. These warm season plants can be grown inside as striking houseplants. The variegated form is colorful and lively, well suited for a partially sunny room. Growing variegated pineapples in full sun is not recommended as the best color comes in lower light areas. The plant is a novelty plant and not as easy to find as the regular pineapple bromeliad varieties. Mature plants can produce a flower within a year of planting. To start your own pineapple flowering houseplant, harvest a fruit and cut the top off. Let the top dry on the counter for a day or two. Plant the base in a mixture of orchid bark and sand that is lightly moist. Keep somewhat moist until the top roots, taking care not to overwater, which will make the fruit top rot. You can also remove any offsets and plant them. Let these root and you will soon be growing variegated pineapples to share with friends and family.

Care for Variegated Pineapple

Pineapples require medium light, soil low in organic amendments, and moderate moisture. The plant can tolerate short periods of drought with no ill effects. They can be prone to several pests including aphids, whiteflies, and scale. Rinse off soft bodied pests and use a horticultural soap to combat the others. Fertilize every two weeks in spring until dormancy in fall. Use a diluted liquid plant fertilizer. Water thoroughly each time, but allow the surface of the soil to dry out before applying more water. Variegated pineapple plant must be kept where temperatures are between 65 and 82 degrees F. (18-28 C.) with high humidity for best growth. Mimic the growing conditions of a Hawaiian island and you are guaranteed success with your pineapple flowering houseplant!

Bromeliad Care: Complete Guide To Growing Bromeliads

Bromeliads, with their rigid and often colorful rosettes combined with futuristic looking flowers, are one of the more fascinating houseplants. Bromeliads need to mimic their native climate range and weather. Their care also hinges upon how the plant gathers moisture and nutrients in the wild.

Care for bromeliad plants is not difficult, but the epiphytic varieties need slightly different care than the terrestrial types. Epiphytic types in nature cling to trees or other structures. They are not parasitic but simply use the structures as perches from which to gather sun and moisture.

Quick Facts:

• Botanical name-Bromeliad
• Height- 2 inches to 4 feet (5.08 cm.- .35 m)
• Spread- Similar
• Sun exposure- Diffuse light
• Soil requirements- Well draining
• Hardiness zones- USDA 10-11
• When to plant- Spring

Bromeliad Care

Most, but not all, bromeliads are epiphytic, which means they do not live in soil, but instead live on trees or even grow in rocky cracks. Most feature a rosette form of strappy, thick leaves that form a central “tank” or cup. In the wild, this cupped area will collect any dew or rainfall.

Since the plant does not root in soil like others, it must gather nutrients and water from the air. Bromeliad plant care in the home needs to mimic this method of delivering moisture and nutrients to the plant.

Light

Bromeliad plants hail from a variety of different ecosystems, so each species requires lighting similar to its native range. However, on average, the plants need bright, diffused light. Better lighting equals better color in the flowers and foliage, but the plants do not like blazing full sun.

Gentle, but high levels of light will keep the plant happy. Too much light and the leaves will get stumpy, while too little will make them elongate and become floppy. Plants with thick, leathery leaves tolerate the most light, while the more pliable-leaved varieties need more diffuse light.

Water

You can water a bromeliad either from the base into the soil and roots, or directly into the cupped leaves. However you choose to water it, keep the plant moderately moist, but not soggy. If you water into the cupped rosettes, keep just enough in the depressions and allow it to disappear for a day or 2 before filling it up again.

When watering the soil, let the soil dry out for a day or 2 before adding more moisture. The ideal pH for the water would be 4.0-7.0. Any water that collects in the pot should be emptied out weekly to remove debris and dead insects that stagnant water tends to lure into the cup.

Temperature & Humidity

Warm temperatures between 60-85 degrees Fahrenheit (15.56-30 C) are optimal, but they tolerate typical indoor temperatures. Bromeliads are not frost-tolerant, but they can be grown outside in frost-free zones.

These epiphytes need fairly high humidity. Misting the leaves daily or placing the container on a saucer filled with rock and water will help increase the ambient moisture. You can purchase a mister on Amazon. Make sure the roots are not submerged in the water to avoid inviting rot.

Soil

Learning how to care for bromeliad plants starts with the soil. The plants have short, fleshy root systems and cannot tolerate any standing water or they will rot. A loose, well-draining soil is perfect.

To make your own, mix equal parts peat, bark, and coarse sand. They do even better in shallow pots and may grow in low soil mediums such as orchid mix, like this one from Home Depot, which is a blend of bark, sphagnum moss and other organic amendments.

Fertilizer

Bromeliad plants rarely need fertilizing. Re-potting every 2 years will refresh the soil and allow the plant to draw nutrients from its medium. Use a balanced houseplant fertilizer, like this organic option from Amazon, diluted by half once per month from spring until early fall during the plant’s growing season.

How to Make Bromeliads Bloom

A flowering bromeliad is irresistible. The bright colors and alien shape of the bloom provide an artistic form that rivals many other plants. Best of all, the flower lasts for months, often still gorgeous and intact six months after blooming. After the flower has died, the original plant will produce offsets. Over time, the mother plant will die and the offsets can be divided off to become new plants and hopefully produce blooms.

Do Bromeliads Only Flower Once?

The parent plant will begin to slowly die after it flowers. Some gardeners say it is possible to get the original plant to bloom again if you place the entire plant in a plastic bag with a ripe apple. To try the apple method, remove all water from the tanks prior to placing the plant in the bag. Set the cut apple slice on the tank. Seal the bag and place it in a low light area for 7-10 days. In 6-14 weeks a flower should start to form. A better option may be to wait for the offsets to mature and hope they will bloom.

Repotting Bromeliads

Bromeliads only need repotting every 2-3 years. Use the same soil mixture as the plant was growing in originally. Bromeliads don’t mind being crowded and need a container only a bit wider than the plant. Make sure any new container has several drainage holes.

How to Propagate Bromeliad Pups

Once pups or offsets are nearly half the size of the mother plant, carefully divide them away from the parent. A sharp, sterile knife may be used to tease away the base of the pup. Make sure to include its roots. The parent can be repotted into a small container not much bigger than its width. Pups with full root systems can also be potted into small containers with the same media mix in which the parent plant grew.

Bromeliad Types

• Aechmea- Urn plant upright, vase-like form
• Ananas- many produce edible fruit
• Billbergia- Spiny edged leaves
• Cryptanthus- Widely grown with 1000s of hybrids. Also known as Earthstars
• Dyckia- Hardy, clumping plants with tall flower spikes
• Guzmania- Most common houseplants
• Neoregelia- Painted Fingernail. Bright markings on the leaves
• Tillandsia - Small specimens also known as Air Plants

Aechmea fasciata, the urn plant bromeliad, comes to us from the South American rainforests. It is an epiphyte, commonly called an air plant, and in the wild it grows on other plants where it receives moisture from heavy rains and nutrients from decaying debris around its roots. This is important to urn plant care in your home as you will try to mimic its natural conditions.

Tips for Urn Plant Care

In the rainforests, rainwater gathers in the stiff rosette of leaves that form the urn. Plant care in the home consists of keeping the center filled with water at all times. For a healthy plant, the water should be emptied and refilled once a week to prevent stagnation. Watch out for dry brown edges of the leaves. It's a sign of dehydration in your urn plant. Care should also be taken with the soil. Keep it moist, but don't overwater. Soggy soil will cause rot at the base of your urn plant bromeliad. You can fertilize your urn plant bromeliad by misting with a weak foliar spray or by adding a half strength solution to the water at its center once a month. If you live in a hardiness zone of 10b or 11, you can grow urn plants outside as long as you keep them well watered. They aren't fussy about soil when grown outdoors, but caring for an urn plant indoor is a bit different. Once again, look at how they grow in the wild. Silt, decaying debris and bits of leaf and bark cling to and build up around the roots of the epiphyte. In your chosen pot at home, you should try to duplicate this soft, well aerated soil. Orchid potting mix is ideal for this or, if you prefer to mix your own, mix peat moss, perlite, and finely shredded pine bark in equal parts. You need a soil that remains light and well aerated so the roots can easily spread. Urn plants prefer bright light, but not direct sun and can suffer scorched leaves if moved too quickly from indoors to out during the summer months. They do best in temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees F. (12-24 C.), although they can tolerate higher with regular misting.

How to Get an Urn Plant to Bloom

Almost everyone who tries to grow urn plants wants them to bloom. Those colorful, long lasting bracts rising from the center of the plant are the ultimate reward in caring for an urn plant. A plant must be at least three years old before it produces a flower stem. One of the most common complaints of gardeners is the failure of bracts to grow. Urn plants need good light and plenty of it for bract production. If light isn't the problem, then it may be a lack of ethylene gas. To encourage blooming, try placing a quartered apple on top of the soil and using a plastic bag to cover both pot and urn plant. Bromeliad plants bloom only once before they die, but don't despair. They leave several lovely gifts behind. Once the bract turns brown, continue caring for your urn plant as before even as the leaves turn brown and die. Beneath the dying leaves you'll find two or more "pups"--baby urn plants. Allow these pups to grow in place until they are 6 inches (15 cm.) tall which usually takes five or six months, and then transfer them to pots of their own.

Learning how to grow a pineapple top is a fun and easy way to experiment with a tropical plant you've probably never had an opportunity to grow. Planting a pineapple top and watching it grow turns the magic of nature from an abstract idea into reality. Plus, you end up with a cute pineapple plant.

The leafy tops of store-bought pineapples are easy to root and grow in your home as a pretty houseplant. Simply choose a fresh pineapple from your local grocery store, cut the top off, and sprout your plant. Pick one with attractive, or even variegated, foliage for a unique pineapple plant you can enjoy year-round.

Not sure how to get started growing pineapples from tops? Don’t worry. We’ll walk you through everything you need to know in this article. And yes, in the right climate your pineapple houseplant may actually produce fruit!

Can You Grow a Pineapple From a Top?

Regrowing kitchen scraps is a fun and sustainable way to garden indoors, and pineapples are one of the easiest plants to start with. It is entirely possible, no matter where you live, to grow the top of a pineapple into a little plant. In the right climate, the little pineapple tree will grow, mature, establish, and send out a flowering stalk. The resulting fruit will be a pineapple, grown from the top of another pineapple.

How to Grow a Pineapple Top

Here are the steps you want to take to start growing the top of a pineapple:

1. Buy a large, fresh pineapple. It’s ideal if you can find one locally grown at a farmer’s market, but failing that, get one at your grocery store.
2. Slice off the leafy top of the fruit, making the cut 1 inch (2.5 cm) below the bottom of the leaves. Prune the pineapple top to remove the outer and the lower leaves. Trim off the outer portion of the pineapple top at the bottom of the crown, or stem, until you see root buds. These should resemble small, brown-colored bumps around the stem's perimeter.

3. Set the section that remains—the tough, stringy core attached to the leaves—in a warm, dry area for a few days to keep it from rotting.
4. Although it's possible to sprout a pineapple in water, most people have better luck rooting them in soil. Fill a large container with a potting medium that drains well. Soil mixed with perlite or coarse sand works great or a succulent mix like this one from Rosy Soil can be found at Amazon. Moisten your potting medium, plant the base of the pineapple top, and water well. When the potting mix drains, cover the plant with a clear plastic bag. Seal it up to keep the humidity in, then place the pot in bright indirect light. If you don't have any area that gets enough light, you can supplement with artificial light, Barrina grow lights from Amazon are a great option.
5. Keep your pineapple top moist until roots develop. If it dries out, add more water. It should take about 6 to 8 weeks for roots to establish. Allow your pineapple top to grow a strong root system before you transplant it.
6. Remove the plastic bag and take the rooted pineapple top out of the pot. Replant it in a large pot filled with moist, well-draining potting mix. Keep in mind that the plant can be up to 3 or 4 feet (1 to 1.3 m) tall when it matures, so pick a container that will accommodate the growing plant.

Pineapple Growing Supplies

Taking Care of Your Pineapple Top Plant

Your job now is to make certain that the potting soil remains moist. Water it regularly but not enough to make it soggy. Fertilize your new pineapple plant using a water-soluble fertilizer every four weeks during the spring and summer, and every eight weeks during the fall and winter.

Keep your eye on the pineapple plant as it grows. It will quickly outgrow its container, so have a larger one waiting. Unless you live in a tropical region similar to where pineapples originate, keep the plant indoors during winter.

Your pineapple plant may enjoy some time outside in the summer. Move the plant outdoors to a semi-shaded location throughout late spring and summer. However, be sure to move it back inside before the first frost in fall for overwintering.

More Fun Ways to Propagate Produce

• Explore more edible plants you can propagate with ease. Here are the 8 best vegetables to propagate from cuttings.
• Start a garden with a quick trip to the grocery store. After planting your pineapple top, learn how to keep grocery store herbs thriving indoors.
• Grow a windowsill bursting with fresh veggies this winter! A top gardening pro shares her secrets for a successful winter windowsill garden.

Frequently Asked Questions

When you have a bromeliad to care for, you might be wondering how to water a bromeliad. Watering bromeliads is no different than any other houseplant care; check your houseplants regularly for their soil being dry. Most plants need water when they are dry unless they are a picky plant, in which case, you should have some sort of direction as to how to handle the watering.

The Bromeliad Water Tank

Bromeliads grow in many different conditions. When taking care of a bromeliad, water it well. The center of a bromeliad is called a tank or cup. This particular plant will hold water in its tank. Fill the tank in the center and don't allow it to get empty. Don't let the water sit for a long time or it will stagnate and possibly cause damage to the plant. Also, salt builds up so it's best to flush it out. You will also need to change the water frequently, about once a week. Let the excess water drain in a drain pan or plate, and let the plant dry out before you decide to water it again.

Best Water for Bromeliads

If you can use it, rainwater is the best water for bromeliads because it is the most natural. Distilled water also works well for watering bromeliads. Bromeliad water can also be tap water, but there may be a build-up of salt and chemicals from tap water. Bromeliads are tough, carefree plants indoors. They provide color to a room and any problems you might encounter can be fixed pretty quickly because the problems are usually caused by overwatering or failure to change the water. If your bromeliad is an outdoor plant, be sure to bring it in during freezing weather. If it freezes, there will be damage to the plant from the water in the tank.

Rewards for Watering Bromeliads

Healthy bromeliads come from being taken care of well. If you want to enjoy your plant for months and months, you want to be sure to take care of it. Remember that the water can be rainwater, filtered water, or tap water, that watering bromeliads should be done when the soil is dry; and that how to water a bromeliad is not much different than watering any other houseplant.