Planting bulbs is a beautiful act of faith – and a classic act of delayed gratification. Tucked in cool soil, they are packed with the promise of spectacular blooms months down the road. Yet, while spring-flowering hardy bulbs like tulips, daffodils, and crocuses require freezing winter chill to trigger their bloom cycles, many summer bloomers originate in tropical and subtropical climates and won’t survive the cold.

When left in cold, sodden winter earth, tender bulbs, corms, tubers, and rhizomes face catastrophic cell damage, and wet winter soil causes rot. Combined with cold winter rain and melting snow, unlifted tender bulbs can quickly succumb to fungal rots long before spring arrives. Knowing how to store bulbs over winter, and knowing which need storage, can save your time, effort, and flowers.

Depending on your hardiness zone and bulb variety, lifting and overwintering these tender beauties is a rewarding fall ritual. Southern growers might be able to get away with leaving their bulbs in the ground beneath a thick mulch, but if you live in zones 7 and colder, you are strongly advised to dig them up and store them indoors. By acting now, you can protect your summer favorites from winter freezes, saving money while ensuring your yard is more floriferous next summer.

Tender Bulbs to Lift

Before grabbing your spade, it’s worth identifying whether you are handling bulbs, tubers, corms or rhizomes. These are all often lumped together under the umbrella term of bulbs, but the following summer bloomers represent a fascinating variety. True bulbs like lilies consist of layered scales. Dahlias grow from swollen tuberous roots or tubers. Gladiolus form solid, disc-shaped corms, while cannas and callas expand via fleshy horizontal rhizomes. That said, all tender summer rootstocks share identical winter vulnerabilities and require careful fall lifting.

Timing is key to lifting successfully. For most tender varieties, the ideal window opens immediately after your region's first light frost blackens top foliage, signaling the plant to transfer energy into underground storage. However, don’t delay until the ground freezes solid, as frozen crusts make excavation tough and expose tender root crowns to sub-surface chill. In hardiness zones 3-5, lifting typically peaks around mid-to-late October. In mid-Atlantic and transitional zones 6-7, late October through early November provides the ideal window.

Use a garden fork, like the Trooper D-Handle Garden Fork from Walmart, to lift your bulbs, tubers and corms cleanly. Insert the tines 8-12 inches (20-25cm) from the main stems. Gently lever the clump out, brush away loose dirt, and allow them to cure in a dry, ventilated, frost-free location for several days to a few weeks.

Once outer skins toughen, pack them in breathable cardboard boxes or plastic crates cushioned with dry vermiculite, perlite, wood shavings, or peat-free coir. Store in a cool, dark space maintaining 40-50°F (4-10°C), such as an unheated basement or insulated garage. Check them monthly for signs of rot or shriveling.

1. Dahlias

Dahlias (Dahlia spp.) can be the jewels of a fall border. However, their fleshy tuberous root systems originate from the warm mountain highlands of Mexico and cannot tolerate freezing soil. Leaving prized varieties like Café au Lait or Kelvin Floodlight in the ground in zones 7 or colder can be a death sentence. Wait until the first frost nips the plant, turning the leaves brown or black. This shock signals the plant to go dormant and pull its final starches into the roots.

Using sharp bypass pruners, cut the stems down to 4-6 inches (10-15cm) above the soil. Carefully fork beneath the clump, lifting the tubers whole. Gently wash off heavy clinging soil and let the tubers dry in an airy, shaded spot for 2-3 days. Dust cut stem ends with sulfur powder or cinnamon to prevent fungal rot, then pack the tubers in crates of coir or dry vermiculite like Sta-Green Vermiculite from Lowe’s, storing them at 45-50°F (7-10°C). Check periodically and if tubers wrinkle, mist lightly with water.

2. Gladiolus

Loved for their vertical flower spikes, gladioli (Gladiolus × hortulanus) grow from corms. While miniature Byzantine gladiolus can tolerate mild chills, large-flowered modern hybrids lack cold hardiness and turn into watery rot when left in frozen ground across zones 7 and below. You can begin lifting gladiolus corms once the foliage turns yellow, or immediately after the first light frost – whichever comes first.

Use a hand fork to loosen the soil around the base of the stems, gently pulling the corms upward by their leaf bases. Cut the foliage back cleanly with some shears or snips such as Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips, available from Amazon, which can trim stalks without tearing skin. Leave an inch (2.5cm) of stem attached to the corm.

Curing is essential, so place the corms in a warm, dry, well-ventilated room (70-75°F / 21-24°C) for 2-3 weeks. Once cured, the new, plump corm separates easily from the spent mother corm. Snap off and discard the old bottom corm along with loose, papery tunics, saving tiny cormels for propagation. Store clean corms in breathable mesh bags or open cardboard cartons in a cool, dark room at 40-45°F (4-7°C).

3. Canna Lilies

With their paddle-shaped leaves and fiery blossoms, cannas (C. indica) bring lush drama to patios and borders. Striped purple-and-gold Tropicanna or dark-leafed Australia make striking centerpieces. However, the rhizomes cannot endure freezing temperatures. In zones 7 and below, frost turns them into mush if left unprotected. Allow the first killing frost to blacken the foliage. Cut the thick stalks back to 3-4 inches (8-10cm) above ground level. Cannas produce dense roots, so dig wide around the clump using a sturdy fork, gently levering the rhizome mass from the soil.

Unlike other bulbs, canna rhizomes benefit from keeping a light layer of dry soil clinging to the outer skin, which cushions dormant eyes and prevents moisture loss during storage. Allow the lifted clumps to dry in a protected, frost-free shed or garage for a couple of days. Pack them snugly into cardboard boxes lined with damp peat moss, shredded paper, or vermiculite, maintaining temperatures around 45-55°F (7-13°C). Nourish the planting site with a little mushroom compost once cannas are lifted. Some Espoma Organic Mushroom Blend Compost from Walmart can help to replenish the ground ahead of next year’s plantings.

4. Tuberous Begonias

Tuberous begonias (B. × tuberhybrida) produce dazzling, rose-like double blossoms through summer and early fall. But under their succulent stems lie cup-shaped tubers that are sensitive to cold, wet conditions. Leaving them in freezing soil causes swift rot. Begin the overwintering process when nighttime temperatures dip toward 45°F (7°C), before heavy frosts. Withhold watering to encourage the plant to wind down naturally. As moisture declines, the succulent stems will loosen. Gently cut or snap the stems back to an inch (2.5cm) above the tuber. Carefully lift the round tubers using a trowel, taking care not to gouge the skin.

Spread the tubers out in a single layer on newspaper in a warm, dry, frost-free room for 2-3 weeks until the stem stubs shrivel and drop. Once cured, brush away dried soil and store the tubers hollow-side up in shallow trays filled with dry peat moss, perlite, or sawdust. Keep them in a dark, dry space at 45°F to 55°F (7°C to 13°C), checking monthly to discard any soft or rotting tubers. A 10x stand magnifier such as the Carson LumiLoupe 10x Power Stand Magnifier from Walmart is ideal for closely inspecting delicate tuber indentations for early mold or soft rot before storage.

5. Caladiums

With their heart-shaped leaves splashed in luminous shades of white, pink, rose, and emerald green, caladiums (C. × hortulanum) are native to South America. Evolved in warm tropical soils, their tubers are more sensitive to chilling than dahlias or cannas. Exposing their tubers to soil temperatures below 55°F (13°C) can prevent them from sprouting again. Don’t wait for frost to lift your caladiums: lift in early fall as soon as night temperatures consistently drop below 60°F (15°C) and leaves lose their hues. Lift the tubers gently using a fork, keeping the foliage attached to the tuber clumps.

Curing with the foliage intact allows your caladium to draw remaining moisture and vital nutrients back into the tuber. Place plants in a warm, dry, shaded room (70°F or 21°C) for 2-3 weeks. Once the leaves are crisp, snip them off at the tuber neck. Store the knobby tubers in dry peat moss or vermiculite, keeping them warmer than other bulbs, between 60-65°F (15-18°C), in an interior closet or heated utility room. Add a sprinkle of Down to Earth Crab Meal, from Amazon to the planting site before replanting caladiums to boost disease resistance against soil-borne nematodes.

6. Elephant Ears

Nothing creates a jungle-like aesthetic quite like elephant ears. Whether you grow wetland-loving Colocasia esculenta (such as near-black Black Magic) or upright alocasia, these foliage giants form thick corms that hate winter mud. Hardy in zones 8-11, gardeners in colder regions must lift them before freezing weather strikes. Lift either immediately after your first light frost blackens the leaf margins or as soon as fall soil temperatures drop below 50°F (10°C). Use sharp loppers or bypass pruners to cut the stalks to 3-6 inches (815cm) above the crown. Using a fork, dig around the base of the plant to pry the heavy corm out of the earth without severing offsets.

Wash away excess soil using a hose and trim stringy roots with snips. Allow the corms to cure in a warm, ventilated spot out of direct sunlight. Cure for 2 weeks until the outer surface feels dry. Wrap individual corms in newspaper or store in crates of dry wood shavings, such as CZ Grain Wood Shavings from Walmart, or peat-free coir. Keep them in a cool, dark location between 45-55°F (7-13°C), checking occasionally to ensure they remain dry. As a side note, hardy garden bergenia shares the nickname elephant's ears. While pink-flowering bergenia (B. cordifolia) is winter-hardy down to zone 3 and stays safe in the ground, tender tropical colocasia and alocasia must be lifted before freezing temperatures arrive.

7. Calla Lilies

Adored for their sculptural spathes and speckled foliage, calla lilies (Zantedeschia spp.) bring sultry elegance to patio containers and garden borders. While common white callas display modest cold tolerance in mild coastal climates, colorful hybrid callas (yellow, flame-orange, lavender, and deep burgundy) grow from tender, flat rhizomes that rot when subjected to prolonged freeze-thaw cycles. Lift rhizomes once the foliage turns yellow and withers, or immediately following the first light frost. Gently lift with a hand trowel or small fork, taking care not to scratch or bruise the surface. Cut away remaining foliage stems 1-2 inches (2.5-5cm) above the crown.

Lay the rhizomes out in a single layer on slatted trays or cardboard. Leave in a warm, dry, well-ventilated space (65-70°F / 18-21°C) to cure for 2 weeks. Once cured, pack the rhizomes in dry peat moss, vermiculite, or shredded newspaper inside breathable cardboard boxes. Store in a dark, dry space between 50-55°F (10-13°C), keeping the packing material dry to prevent premature sprouting. Next spring when potting up cured calla rhizomes, add a diluted seaweed or kelp drench such as GS Plant Foods Organic Liquid Kelp from Walmart to jumpstart root growth.

Taking a little time in October to lift and store your tender summer bulbs is one of the most rewarding investments you can make for next year’s blooms. By lifting these tender classics before winter freezes hit, you protect them from cold and ensure an even more spectacular return next summer. Always label them clearly with the plant variety and flower color as you pack them away: this will make mapping out your dream borders in spring a breeze.

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October is a busy month for amaryllis. If a bulb has been resting dry in a closet or basement since late summer, it's close to being ready for another growth spurt. Other pots spent the summer on a deck or sunk into a garden bed, and those have different needs. What you do with amaryllis in October sets up this winter's flowers.

Amaryllis care this time of year depends on where the bulb spent the summer. Store-bought holiday amaryllis are Hippeastrum, tropical bulbs native to Central and South America, and frost will kill them. Soggy mix is the other big danger, since it can rot the bulb. For a dormant bulb, the main job is picking the right week to start it. A plant coming in from outdoors usually needs a rest before it will bloom again.

From the day it's potted and watered, a bulb usually needs six to eight weeks to flower, though some bloom faster and others lag. That puts mid-to-late October right in range for December flowers. Pot up a second bulb a week or two after the first, and the color can carry on into January – handy, since it also raises the odds of a bloom on Christmas morning. Here are the key steps to take to ensure holiday flowers.

1. Wake Dormant Bulbs at the Right Time

Stored bulbs benefit from a cool, dry rest before you encourage them to grow again, usually for about eight to 10 weeks. A bulb that went into storage in late August is probably ready now, while one stored in late September has only had a few weeks.

A green tip pushing up from the bulb's neck is a good sign that growth is restarting, although you don't need to wait for one to appear. Give the bulb a gentle squeeze, too. A healthy bulb should feel firm and solid, much like a good onion. Soft spots or fuzzy mold can indicate rot, particularly if the bulb feels mushy underneath. If it's still firm and healthy, it can stay in its old pot as long as the potting mix is in good condition.

2. Bring Outdoor Amaryllis Indoors Before Cold Weather

Amaryllis can't take frost, and temperatures under about 35°F (2°C) can injure the plant. Across much of the North, frost has already arrived by mid-October, while in warmer parts of Zone 8 and farther south, bulbs planted in the ground can often stay put under 2 to 3 inches (5–8 cm) of mulch. Bring potted bulbs inside when frost is in the forecast.

While you're moving your plants indoors, check the bulbs for signs of damage. Narcissus bulb fly (Merodon equestris) larvae sometimes tunnel into bulbs left outdoors over summer, and a bulb that gives under your thumb may be infested or rotting.

Once your potted amaryllis are safely indoors, think about how to prepare them for winter. Unlike bulbs bought specifically for Christmas flowering, those that have spent summer outdoors aren't necessarily on track for holiday blooms. If the foliage has naturally died back, a cool, dim rest at around 50 to 55°F (10–13°C) for eight to 10 weeks can help prepare them to flower again, although blooms may not appear until late winter. If the leaves are still green and healthy, however, there's no need to force dormancy.

3. Repot Only When Needed

An amaryllis flowers well in a snug pot, and a bulb can usually go three or four years before it needs a bigger one. A bulb pressing against the pot's side is one sign it's time to repot an amaryllis; roots poking out of the drainage holes are another. Replace old mix that stays wet for days, too.

The new pot should be only 1 to 2 inches (2.5–5 cm) wider than the bulb and about twice as tall, with a drainage hole. A fresh mix, like Espoma Organic All-Purpose Potting Mix (available on Amazon), gives the roots a clean start. How deep should the bulb go? At least the top third should stay above the soil line.

4. Start Watering Gradually

Water the pot well right after planting, then let it drain thoroughly. The bulb has no leaves yet and uses very little water, so you probably won't need to water again for at least a week. Check the mix first, though, and only add more water when it's starting to dry out. Keep it lightly moist rather than wet, and pour around the edge of the pot instead of directly onto the bulb.

When new growth reaches 2 to 3 inches (5–8 cm), the plant gets thirstier, so water whenever the top inch (2.5 cm) of the mix feels dry. The pot should never sit in standing water. A decorative outer pot with no drainage hole, such as this terracotta bowl planter from Wayfair, looks nicer than a saucer and can conceal the nursery pot inside. Just remember to tip out any water that collects.

5. Move It to a Bright, Warm Spot and Turn the Pot

While the stalk and leaves develop, amaryllis grow best at about 70 to 75°F (21–24°C) in a south-facing window with at least four hours of direct sun, away from heat vents. Days are short by late October, though – pale, floppy leaves are usually the first sign a window is coming up short.

On gray days, screw a full-spectrum LED grow bulb into a lamp near the plant. Home Depot carries one with a standard base. Give the pot a quarter turn every few days so the stalk grows straight. Once the buds swell, a tall stalk can get top-heavy and tip over. An inexpensive set of bamboo plant stakes with clips, like these from Amazon, will hold it up. Push the stake in near the rim, away from the bulb. The open flowers also last longer in a cooler spot out of direct sun.

6. Begin Feeding Once Growth Starts

So why not feed the bulb right away? Fertilizer on a bulb with no leaves can kill the roots, and nothing is growing yet to use it. If the flower stalk pushes up first, which happens often, keep waiting until the leaves join it. From there, a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer at about half strength every two weeks or so is plenty. Espoma organic indoor plant food, available on Amazon, is an even 2-2-2 formula. Keep feeding it after the flowers fade while the leaves rebuild the bulb for next year.

An amaryllis stalk can grow noticeably from one day to the next, and it's hard not to check on it every morning. After the flowers fade, cut off the stalk once it yellows and keep the leaves growing in a sunny window through spring and summer. Come next October, the same bulb can be ready for this list all over again.

Shop Amaryllis Bulbs

True lilies are some of the most striking, fragrant, and elegant flowers in the garden. As fall continues, those magnificent blooms may fade, but underground, their leaves and bulbs are working overtime to prepare for winter. October is a critical time when lily bulbs are drawing in late-season nutrients, developing healthy roots, and storing vital energy to push up towering stems next year.

Before diving into autumn chores, make sure you clarify which type of lily you need to care for, and distinguish true lilies (Lilium) from daylilies (Hemerocallis). Daylilies grow from dense, fibrous roots and die back quickly, while true lilies grow from fleshy bulbs. These fall tasks focus on early-blooming Asiatic hybrids, fragrant Oriental lilies (like 'Stargazer'), majestic Trumpet lilies, and robust Orienpet (OT) hybrids.

These simple October tasks outlined here ensure maximum winter survival, smart disease resistance, and better flower development next time. Because most true lilies are cold-hardy, they can remain safely in the ground (just a few tender types, or lilies in very cold climates, benefit from winter storage). By giving your lily beds a little expert attention now, you set the stage for an explosive, colorful display next year.

Best Lily Care in October

Before getting stuck into lily care, give some thought to your USDA hardiness zone and climate, as well as specific varieties. Because specific lily classes mature at different rates through late summer, individual plants in borders may sit at varying stages of dormancy in October. Early Asiatic varieties may have dropped their leaves weeks ago, while tall Oriental and Orienpet hybrids might hold green foliage into fall.

In addition to managing existing lily beds, October is a great time to introduce new lily bulbs. Soil temperatures remain warm enough for fresh roots to establish before deep winter freezes arrive. At the same time, growers in severe northern climates (zones 2–3) or those growing tender, exotic species like Formosa lilies can lift and store bulbs for protection.

It’s a good idea to invest in a soil probe that can give you a reliable idea of light and moisture levels in the ground at this time. A diagnostic tool like the Raintrip 4-in-1 Soil Meter, available from Amazon, can give you a heads-up about conditions around your lilies before you start. Checking can help you clarify root moisture, soil pH, and temperature levels before you mulch or plant new bulbs.

Whether you are tending established clumps, adding new varieties, or lifting tender bulbs for winter, these simple October tasks will ensure your lilies transition smoothly into dormancy. Following these quick checks this month gives you the best preparation for healthier plants and bigger blooms next summer.

1. Remove Dead Seed Heads and Leaves

Removing spent plant material is important for maintaining a tidy bed but also for plant health and preventing infections. Fallen leaves and spent lily foliage can harbor destructive fungal spores, most notably lily blight, as well as other pathogens. Collect and dispose of yellowing or dropped leaves as they loosen from the main stems. Any foliage showing dark spots, water-soaked streaks, or powdery mildew should be bagged and placed in the trash (not the compost pile) to prevent spreading disease.

Additionally, snip off any seed heads that form after flowering finishes. Unless you are intentionally saving seed for propagation, developing seed pods drain massive amounts of energy away from the bulb. Removing seed capsules redirects resources back down into the bulb, strengthening reserves for winter. Always use clean, sharp snips when removing seed heads, and wipe down the blades before and after use. Bonide Captain Jack’s Ready-to-Use Neem Oil Spray, available from Walmart, is great for sanitizing tool blades as well as treating beds against fungal spores.

2. Check Plants for Pests and Diseases

This is an excellent opportunity to check remaining stems and leaf joints for signs of damage or insect activity, like spots or holes. Aphids, red lily leaf beetles, and scale insects frequently deposit overwintering eggs close to the soil line. Removing old stem tissue and clearing away leaf clutter can eliminate cozy pest harbors. To help you get a closer look, grab a magnifying glass or a loupe like the Carson LumiLoupe 10x Stand Magnifier from Amazon. This can help assess leaves or bulb scales for hidden mites, thrips, or early fungal rot.

If you are dividing or lifting tender varieties for indoor storage, inspect bulbs closely. Healthy lily bulbs should feel firm, plump, and heavy, with crisp white, yellow, or pinkish scales. Discard any that feel soft, squishy, or show signs of blue mold or basal rot. If you notice rot in multiple bulbs, it might be a sign of poor soil drainage. Correct this in October by working some coarse grit or perlite into the planting area.

3. Trim Back Faded Plants

While it is tempting to clear away all stems early to keep beds tidy, patience is essential – and timing is crucial. As long as a lily stem holds green leaves, it is actively performing photosynthesis, converting sunlight into carbohydrates and pumping energy down into the bulb. So while parts of the plant are working, it’s best to leave lilies as long as they are healthy. Cutting back green stems prematurely starves the bulb, resulting in stunted growth and fewer flowers the following season.

Wait until the foliage has turned yellow, brown or papery before cutting back. Once the stem is fully dead, use bypass pruners to cut the stalk down to about 2-3 inches (5-8cm) above the ground. Leaving a short stem stub helps mark the bulb's location. Dispose of dead stalks promptly, as hollow, decaying stems left standing over winter make ideal overwintering sites for pests and spores. After cutting back, add a gentle organic phosphorus booster to the soil. A little Down to Earth Organic Fish Bone Meal from Lowe’s around trimmed bases can encourage root development.

4. Lift Tender Bulbs and Plant New Bulbs

This is a chore many gardeners can skip, as most lilies are hardy in most areas of North America. Asiatic, Oriental, and Trumpet lilies are hardy in zones 4-9, but if you are in zones 2-3 or growing tender exotic species, it’s smart to lift bulbs in October. Once foliage dies back, carefully lift using a garden fork, taking care not to nick the bulbs. Brush off loose soil and allow the bulbs to air-dry in a cool room for 24 hours. Store them in cardboard boxes layered with slightly damp peat moss, wood shavings or vermiculite. Keep in a cool, dark location, around 40-45°F (4-7°C).

October is also a great time to plant new hardy lilies. Autumn soil retains summer warmth, allowing fresh bulbs to build strong root systems. Plant bulbs pointy side up at a depth 2-3 times the height of the bulb, 6-8 inches (15-20cm) deep. Choose a sunny site with well-draining soil, mixing a little organic compost or bone meal into the bottom of the hole. Add a gentle root tonic rather than a heavy dedicated feed. Go for a light soil drench with a seaweed or kelp tonic like GS Plant Foods Organic Liquid Kelp from Walmart. This is rich in trace minerals to help develop roots.

5. Apply Mulch and Mark Locations

Bulbs that stay in the ground over winter benefit from a little protection, even if they are hardy in your growing zone. Mulching insulates the soil, moderates temperature changes, and reduces the risk of frost-related damage. Once beds are cleared and trimmed, apply a layer of mulch. If you’re looking for a great mulch for lilies, I recommend Back to the Roots Organic Premium Wood Mulch from Amazon. This dye-free organic bark mulch insulates bulbs, while suppressing early weeds. You can also use shredded bark, evergreen boughs or clean straw.

As well as insulating the soil against temperature swings, mulching prevents damage by freeze-thaw cycles. These can cause frost heaving, which is where shifting soil pops bulbs up to the surface. Wait until the ground cools down (or after the first hard freeze) before applying a 2-4-inch (5-10cm) blanket of your mulch. Don’t pack it too tightly or thickly, though, as this can trap moisture over the bulbs.

Finally, be sure to mark the exact locations of your buried lily bulbs. True lilies emerge relatively late in spring, and it is dangerously easy to forget exactly where they are and to slice through dormant bulbs in spring. Drive durable wooden or plastic garden stakes into the ground besides your trimmed stem stubs or fresh plantings. Taking a quick photo on your smartphone can also help to create a visual map that prevents accidental digging when spring arrives.

These well-timed tasks will help your lily bulbs survive the winter and thrive next spring with vigorous growth and abundant, majestic blooms. The most important priorities are to leave green foliage intact until it dies back naturally, clear away dead plant debris, and protect underground bulbs while ensuring excellent soil drainage for any additions. Take a little time to tend your lily beds well this fall, and you can enjoy an unforgettable display of lovely lilies next summer.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

In most gardens, October is a pivotal transition period for perennials as they go from active growing and flowering to winter dormancy. As early-season bloomers, irises can look pretty tired by fall, but that doesn’t mean they don’t need care.

October iris care is all about preparing plants for dormancy and ensuring they’ll emerge healthy and flowering next spring. From preventing rot to managing pests and diseases, good care now ensures healthier growth next year.

Here, we’ll focus on October chores for bearded irises, the most commonly grown type, with notes on how care differs for Siberian and Japanese irises. Essential fall care includes trimming foliage, cleaning up around plants, dividing as needed, and managing mulch appropriately by iris type.

1. Trim Back Declining Foliage

Depending on where you live and garden, some or all of your iris foliage will be giving up the game by now. Much of the foliage will be yellow or dying. Use clean, sharp shears to remove spent leaves. For precise trimming around healthy foliage, try the Fiskars Titanium Micro-Tip Pruning Shears, available at Home Depot. Their narrow blades make it easier to snip away dying leaves without damaging neighboring growth.

In general, trim established plants back to about six to eight inches (15 to 20 cm). Leaving leaves intact can cause winter damage that collapses onto the rhizomes, increasing the risk of rot.

Leave any healthy green leaves intact, as they are still photosynthesizing and gathering energy for the plant to use next year. In milder climates, you might still see a lot of green leaves, so you’ll need to delay trimming until the plant has more yellowing leaves.

2. Clear out Garden Debris

It’s very important to remove debris from around and under your irises before winter. Remove all fallen and dead leaves, stems, weeds, and other plant material and compost it, or, if diseased, dispose of it in the garbage.

This chore is crucial because leftover material can increase the risk of plants getting diseases or being infested with pests later. The iris borer lays eggs in dead foliage, which overwinter there and hatch in the spring. Removing debris also opens up airflow, reducing the risk of fungal infections.

If iris borers have been a problem in your garden, make a note to tackle them again in spring. A spinosad-based insecticide, such as Bonide Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew, available on Amazon, can help control newly hatched larvae before they burrow into the plants. Apply when new iris shoots reach around 4–6 inches tall (10–15 cm).

3. Check Rhizomes for Rot

Bearded irises store energy in fleshy rhizomes near the soil surface. They may rot if moisture levels are too high. It’s a good idea to check for and manage any areas of rot on rhizomes now, so they don’t get worse over winter. Brush back the soil from the tops of the rhizomes and inspect them for spots that look soft, mushy, or dark, or that have a bad smell.

Use a sharp, clean garden knife to cut out rotten areas until you reach healthy, firm rhizome tissue. A tool such as the Fiskars Big Grip Garden Knife, available at Amazon, is also handy for carefully lifting affected rhizomes to inspect them more closely. Disinfect the blade between cuts to avoid spreading infection. If a rhizome is severely rotted, it’s usually best to remove and discard it.

If you find a lot of rot, check drainage around the plants and make sure water isn’t pooling. Japanese and Siberian irises also grow from rhizomes, but these are generally less exposed than those of bearded irises. You can still check around the crowns for signs of rot or damage caused by excessive moisture.

4. Divide and Replant Irises

Fall is generally a good time to divide bearded irises. However, October might be too late in some areas. In milder climates (zones 7 to 9), you can divide irises now. In colder areas, October is likely too late to move irises and expect them to establish before winter.

If you are dividing an iris now, lift the clumps carefully. A sturdy digging tool, such as the Radius Garden Root Slayer Shovel, available at Home Depot, has a serrated blade that makes it easier to dig around dense, established clumps. Take care not to damage the rhizomes as you lift them. Separate the rhizomes, ensuring each one has a healthy fan of leaves. Plant the divisions in suitable areas right away, making sure they have good drainage and that the rhizomes remain near the surface. Siberian and Japanese irises are best divided in spring.

If it’s too late to make divisions now, you can still plan ahead by identifying large clumps that could benefit from a spring division. Target bearded iris clumps that are spreading into dense patches, have a bare center, or have not produced as many flowers as in previous years.

Label or photograph the clumps you plan to target in spring, so you don’t forget. It’s not always easy to identify the overgrown irises in spring. The best time to divide next year is after flowering.

A little fall care goes a long way toward establishing healthy, flowering irises in spring. It’s easy to forget these early bloomers come fall, but don’t make the mistake of ignoring them. Irises need fall care to ease their way into winter in good health.

5. Avoid Mulching, or Mulch Lightly

Bearded irises are different from many perennials in that they generally should not be mulched over in winter. The rhizomes need to remain near the soil surface and slightly exposed to air and sunlight to stay dry and avoid rotting. Never cover them in heavy layers of mulch or compost.

If you have very cold winters, you can apply a thin layer of more breathable mulch to prevent frost heaving. Use pine needles or clean straw, like CleanStraw Longleaf Pine Straw Mulch from Walmart. Other types of irises can benefit from a more typical layer of mulch to retain moisture and as protection against cold.

6. Stop Feeding and Adjust Watering

Growth is slowing and stopping this time of year as irises prepare for winter dormancy. This means they no longer need fertilizer. Stop feeding irises now to avoid promoting fresh new growth that will only expend energy and freeze in winter.

You can also slow down your watering routine as temperatures drop, especially if your area is getting more rain. Rather than following a fixed schedule, check the soil every few days for moisture and water as needed. A Yamron 4-in-1 Soil Moisture Meter, available at Amazon, can help you monitor moisture levels and avoid overwatering. Newly transplanted divisions will need more consistent moisture as they establish roots, but take care not to leave the soil waterlogged.

Iris Care Essentials

Saffron is one of the tastiest, most expensive spices on the planet but if you have a sunny well-drained corner in your garden, it’s simple to grow your own. Grow saffron crocus and the purple petals are a beautiful fall addition to any yard, too.

Saffron comes from Crocus sativus, a fall-blooming crocus with lavender flowers that each hold three slender red stigmas. Those stigmas are the spice. When commercially grown, every single one is plucked by hand and around 150 flowers go into a single gram of dried threads — which pretty much explains the price on that tiny grocery-store jar.

Growing the plant at home is so easy, though, and you don’t need many of those stigmas to pack a powerful flavor punch. Grow saffron crocus and you can enjoy flowers the very first autumn in a sunny patch of ground, and the corms multiply for a bigger harvest every year after.

How to Grow Saffron

Crocus sativus grows from bulb-like corms and while August or September is the usual planting time, you can get away with planting in October as this is a tough plant, hardy in zones 4-8. Saffron crocus corms are available from Jackson & Perkins and should be planted as soon as they arrive. Corms left sitting in the bag too long can sprout and fizzle out before they ever touch soil.

In zones 5 through 8, saffron crocus overwinters outdoors without much fuss. Zone 4 works too, as long as the soil is very well drained. Good drainage is the key to growing these corms successfully in all zones, however, as they tend to rot in soil that stays soggy for long stretches. So, if you have heavy clay soil that hangs onto water, growing saffron crocus in a raised bed makes sense.

You can also grow crocus in pots around a foot (30cm) or so across, as long as they're set on the ground over winter, not up on a bench. Using a container also means you can choose a cozy, sheltered sunny corner in winter if you’re in a colder zone. If your soil drains well, though, the world is your oyster! A favorite method is to add saffron crocus to your lawn for drifts of pretty purple flowers in fall as you'll have stopped mowing the grass by the time they bloom.

Set corms roughly 4-6 inches (10-15cm) deep and 3-4 inches (8-10cm) apart, pointed end up, then water them in once. Rain usually handles it after that. Voles and squirrels will dig for the corms, though, so add galvanised steel mesh, particularly if you’re planting in pots or border soil. Everbilt Steel Hardware Cloth, carried by Home Depot, has a ¼-inch (6mm) mesh that bends easily into a container or a buried basket under and around a planting. Where deer visit often, netting keeps them off the grassy winter leaves.

Mistakes That Can Cost a Saffron Harvest

Autumn crocus (Colchicum autumnale) and a few related fall bloomers often get sold as autumn crocus or even meadow saffron, and those plants are poisonous from top to bottom. Buying labelled corms from a trusted supplier beats squinting at flowers, but always check plant ID before you pick. Stamens give it away, with three on saffron crocus and six on a Colchicum. Only harvest from plants sold as Crocus sativus, and keep corms apart from other fall bulbs when storing, planting and growing, so they don't get mixed up.

Summer irrigation causes quieter trouble. Saffron goes dormant around June or July, and a planting sharing a drip line with thirsty tomatoes might remain wet enough to rot. Cutting the leaves early is another common slip. Leave them be until they yellow on their own as that foliage is still feeding next year's corms right up until dormancy. Fresh manure and heavy nitrogen are best avoided too. And don’t worry if the debut season is underwhelming – a good share of new corms may not flower until the second year.

How to Pick and Dry Saffron Threads

Flowers open in October or November, not long after the first leaves poke up. Harvesting saffron is best done in the morning once dew has dried off, ideally right before the blooms open fully. Pull out the three red stigmas and leave the yellow stamens behind. Tweezers make this much easier.

Threads must be bone dry before they go in a jar for storage. Air-drying in a warm, dark corner of the house works, but slowly. A dehydrator speeds up the process, but be sure to use one with a fine mesh screen to stop the tiny threads dropping through the trays, such as the NESCO Snackmaster Pro Food Dehydrator, available from Walmart.

Store saffron in small, tight-sealing amber glass jars like these 2oz jars from Amazon. Tucked away from light, dried threads can hold their quality for a couple of years. The usual habit is to let a new saffron batch sit for about a month before cooking with it.

How to Use Homegrown Saffron at Home

It’s important to say that if you’re pregnant, you shouldn’t ingest saffron as it can stimulate uterine contractions. This spice may also interact with medication – in particular blood pressure and diabetes medications – so consult your doctor before consuming. Only eat a moderate amount (no more than a few strands a day) as high doses can have severe side effects.

A little saffron goes a long way when cooking. Crumble a pinch into two or three tablespoons (30-45ml) of warm water and let it steep for 15-20 minutes and the golden liquid will carry flavor evenly into a pot of rice or seafood stew. Saffron steeped into a little warm water can also be whipped into mayonnaise that pairs well with seafood, or use it to add color as well as flavor to bakes.

Saffron crocus is one of the best plants to grow for herbal teas, too. To make a warming saffron tea, simply steep a few strands in a mug with honey to taste. This acts as a natural mood booster and can promote better digestion and sleep.

Saffron has also served as a textile dye for centuries. Its color comes from water-soluble pigments so a strong steep can tint silk or wool a warm yellow for a craft project, though the shade may fade with washing and sunlight.

Is Growing Saffron Cheaper than Buying It?

Over one season, probably not. One flower yields only a few thousandths of a gram of dry spice, and a starter bed of three or four dozen corms might produce enough for a couple of dishes that first year. But the picture shifts in later years. Each established corm can form several offsets by spring, so a bed that gave a pinch in year one may produce noticeably more by year three, and while the corms are a one-time cost, the spice at the store never is.

To encourage a good supply, once blooms start thinning out from crowding, lift and divide the clump, using the crocus offsets to propagate new plants. What a homegrown supply really costs is labor, and a grower who has pulled stigmas with cold fingers on a November morning understands the price tag a little better! But of course the other benefit of growing your own saffron in your garden is that you get to enjoy these pretty purple flowers every fall, which is absolutely priceless.

Early October is peak flowering time for most dahlias, and the right care now will influence not just how many more blooms you enjoy into fall, but the health of their tubers you’ll soon be digging up to store over winter. Dahlias thrive during this season’s warm days and cool nights, and will reward you with spectacular and abundant blooms. But if you want to enjoy the same dazzling show next year, you need to strike a balance between pushing for more flowers and prepping those tubers for storage. So, if you're wondering what dahlias need in October, balanced care is critical.

Fall dahlia care also depends heavily on your growing region and climate but for most gardeners, early October should bring a focus on cleaning up plants, preventing new green growth, supporting tall stems, and monitoring and managing pests and diseases. Get it right and you’ll get plenty more blooms as well as plump tubers full of energy that’ll overwinter well, ready for a repeat performance next year.

Ready? Let’s dive into what to do with dahlias in October.

1. Keep Watering, But Don’t Overdo It

Part of the fall balance for dahlias is irrigation levels. While plants are still putting out impressive blooms, they’ll be using plenty of water, but their tubers are also preparing to toughen up for winter – and too much moisture means those roots get soft and won't store well. Add rainfall into the mix and there’s even more to consider, especially if you're growing dahlias in containers.

The best guideline is to water your dahlias if it doesn’t rain, once the soil has dried out. But then water deeply. A rain gauge such as this pretty precipitation gauge stake from Amazon is a really simple but effective way to keep an eye on how much rainfall your plants are getting, so you can water accordingly. Irrigate at soil level, never over the plants, and try to avoid getting foliage and stems too wet.

As October proceeds, gradually cut back on how much water you provide so the tubers start to toughen their skins.

2. Deadhead Flowers

As long as you keep removing spent blooms, you’ll direct the plant’s energy into growing more blooms rather than seed production. To deadhead dahlias, cut the faded flower stem back to the next branching point. Of course, you don’t need to wait for the petals to fade before cutting, as now you can be enjoying cut flowers as your reward for all your hard work. Snipping freshly opened blooms will also encourage plants to continue producing more.

With some dahlia varieties, the spent flowers look very similar to new buds. If you're not sure which is which, give it a gentle squeeze: fresh about-to-open buds will feel firm to the touch while spent blooms will feel a little mushy.

Of course, if you plant to collect seeds, leave some of the flowers in place.

3. Support Stems if Needed

All these heavy blooms can start to weigh down the stems, especially if you're growing dinnerplate dahlias, and it’s common to see plants splay at this time of the year. If you don’t already have them in place, add stakes to help top-heavy stems stay upright. Not only do vertical stems look better, broken stems can create wounds that are vulnerable to disease.

Bamboo canes will do the job just fine, but make sure you buy poles that are long enough, like these reusable 5' support stakes from Walmart, as you’ll need to push a quarter of the length into the ground. Tie individual stems into the stakes using soft twist ties such as these from Amazon that won’t cut into the plant material, or simply fashion a cradle around the whole plant with canes and twine.

If you do have supports in place, check them and make adjustments as needed, especially after heavy rain or windy weather.

4. Watch Out for Pests and Disease

As part of regular maintenance, you should be looking out for signs of pest infestations or diseases taking root in your dahlias. Do this throughout the growing season, but especially now, as you want your plants to stay healthy as they build up energy and tough, healthy tubers for winter storage.

Some of the typical pests you’re looking for in October include spider mites and aphids, both of which feed on dahlias. Pests are less of a concern this time of year as growth is wrapping up anyway, but it’s still worth removing them with a spray of water or use an organic neem oil spray such as Bonide Captain Jack’s Neem Oil, available from Lowe’s, to keep your plants looking tidy for the rest of the season.

Increasing rain and lower temperatures in fall can increase the prevalence of powdery mildew and leaf spot. While there’s no need to worry, if you spot a white dust-like coating to leaves, it’s best to remove them to reduce the amount of infected plant matter in your garden beds. A collapsible waste bag like Fiskars 10-Gallon Yard Waste Bag, available from Amazon, makes it easy to transport them straight to the trash, as you don’t want these fungal spores in your compost bin.

5. Gradually Stop Fertilizing

Feeding dahlias as we head deeper into fall pushes the plant to make new growth rather than harden off its tubers ready for storage. Particularly, avoid the temptation to use up any high-nitrogen fertilizer which promotes leafy growth. If you're gardening in a warmer zone and still feeding to promote flowering, make sure the fertilizer is designed specifically for that job. Look for a low- or zero-nitrogen feed such as TPS Flower Fertilizer, available from Amazon, that’s rated 0-10-10 or 5-10-10 – the first number indicates nitrogen levels, so this must be lower than the second two numbers that indicate potassium and phosphorus.

Aim to stop fertilizing completely 4-6 weeks before your first expected frost date, to give your plant time to mature its tubers.

6. Prepare for the First Hard Frost

If You Garden in a Cold Zone

In zones 7 and below, you’ll need to dig up and store your dahlia tubers over the winter. Depending on the zone you garden in, your first frost could hit in October, so make sure you’ve got everything ready. Coco coir such as this from Walmart in a cardboard box makes for cheap and effective storage.

Always wait until the first good frost has killed the stems above the ground, as this triggers the plant to send a rush of sugars and starches down into the tubers. Not only does this mean lots of energy stored for next year, it tells the plant to enter dormancy and mature the tubers, when they’ll store better.

It’s best to leave tubers in the ground to rest for 1-2 weeks after this frost to allow this process, unless you suspect the soil will freeze, when tubers will die, or rainfall is heavy and incessant, when roots may start to rot.

If You Garden in a Warm Zone

If you live in the warmer climates of zones 8-11, you can safely leave dahlia tubers in the ground as long as you have well-draining soil. If you have a frost, wait a week or two to allow the energy transfer into the tubers then cut stems down to around 3-4 inches and pile a 5-inch layer of mulch such as Back to the Roots Organic Mulch, available from The Home Depot, over the soil to act as a cozy duvet.

In frost-free zones, cut stems by mid-December at the latest to ensure plants rest, and there’s no need to mulch.

As you look ahead, adjust your plans to the weather as temperatures and rainfall can vary widely in fall. Keep enjoying those spectacular October blooms but remember you need to start caring for the tubers, too, if you want next summer's display to be equally stunning.

Stock Up On Showstopper Varieties

October is a great month to buy dahlia tubers as you'll be able to find more unusual varieties and dahlia types that are usually snapped up months before the first hint of spring. Most specialist dahlia retailers open for pre-orders in October then send tubers out in spring, though it's fine to physically buy tubers now as you can safely store them for spring planting.
Take a look at Dutch Grown's impressive dahlia collection of over 150 cultivars for inspiration, and here are just a few varieties new for 2027 to give you a taste of the incredible flower shapes and color combos now available.

Spring-flowering bulbs to plant in October are your secret weapon if you want a gorgeous garden but don’t fancy spending every spare moment fussing over it. Run-of-the-mill tulips and daffodils are spring favorites for good reason, but there are more exciting varieties with standout flowers, intriguing shapes and plenty of personality. Tuck them into borders, containers or lawns in fall, then let nature do much of the heavy lifting.

Ever-more fabulous new varieties of spring-flowering bulbs are being bred and, though they boast showier flowers, there’s nothing difficult about growing them. The trick is to choose the right bulb for the right spot and give them conditions they naturally enjoy – which is usually as simple as good drainage and plentiful sunshine – and they'll quietly return each spring with very little intervention.

Fall is the perfect time to get planting bulbs, giving them time to settle in and establish roots before winter arrives. So, ditch the boring varieties and decide which of these far less basic beauties deserve a place in your garden. From charming gems to head-turning statement flowers, I’ve rounded up unusual spring-flowering bulbs that brim with character but couldn’t be easier to grow. All you need do is equip yourself with a bulb planter such as the Berry&Bird Planter, available via Amazon – or a long-handled planter such as the Colwelt Planter Tool, stocked by Walmart, if you're planting lots – then look forward to an enviable but effortless spring show.

1. Personality-Packed Parrot Tulips

While many varieties provide knockout color, parrots are among the best tulips to turn up the volume of a spring garden. The huge flowers offer a flamboyant upgrade with dramatically cut, twisted and feathered petals, often splashed with contrasting streaks or flashes of color.

Flowering later than many tulips around May, parrot tulips are particularly useful for extending the spring show and bridging the gap between the first bulbs and early summer blooms. Plant in generous groups so their fabulous flowers pack a color punch, and don't be shy with numbers. Don’t be afraid to lean into your favorite look, either, as parrot tulips are all about personality. Pop them close to paths, patios and seating areas where you and your garden guests can enjoy an up-close look at these wonderfully weird petals.

Parrot tulips can be less reliable repeat performers than some others, particularly in climates with hot, humid summers, so it's vital to grow parrot tulips in full sun and sharply drained soil, preferably sheltered from strong winds.

Zones 3-8 / Full sun / Flowers mid to late spring / Grows 18-24" high and 4-6" wide.

2. Opulent Double Anemones

Layer upon layer of petals gives double-flowered anemones an irresistibly full, almost peony-like appearance, so they make a big impact in a small space. Newer Fullstar anemones take the extravagance a step further, producing densely packed, ruffled blooms that can reach around 4 inches across. And though the blooms are bigger, the plants themselves stay compact so are easy to tuck into containers, rock gardens or border fronts.

Often sold as bulbs, anemones actually grow from small, woody corms but are planted in just the same way. For a fall planting, simply rehydrate the dry corms first by soaking in tepid water for up to 24 hours. These Mediterranean-origin anemones are particularly sensitive to wet conditions while dormant so choose a sunny, sheltered spot with fertile, very well-drained soil.

Zones 7-10 / Full sun to partial shade / Flowers spring to early summer / Grows 12-18” high and 6-9” wide.

3. Aliens-Have-Landed Alliums

If your summer border is hot, dry and sunny, ornamental alliums are among the best bulbs to plant in fall. We're all familiar with the classic purple pom-pom varieties that bob above the border but look a little closer and you'll find alliums with much stranger, more sculptural personalities. Some produce starbursts, spidery clusters or wonderfully wiry flowerheads, turning neighbors’ heads while still attracting pollinators. When flowers fade, the dried seedheads stick around, adding structure long after the main display is over.

It’s super-simple to grow alliums that return year after year, as long as you give them the right conditions. Plant the bulbs in early to mid-fall in free-draining soil and water to settle them in, but then ignore them unless the weather is unusually dry – because damp ground is the main reason these bulbs fail. And don't panic if the strap-like leaves start to yellow just as the flower stalks appear – allium leaves often die back around flowering time, which is why many gardeners plant them among grasses and leafy perennials that hide the fading foliage.

Zones 4-9 / Full sun / Flowers late spring to early summer / Grows 1-5' high and 4-12" wide.

4. Perfectly Peachy Daffodils

Appealing peachy daffs are comfortingly familiar without the brashness of their bright yellow cohorts. Their cups glow in shades of peach, apricot, salmon or coral, while the outer petals stay cream, white or greenish white. The effect is prettier and far more sophisticated, making these the best daffodils to add to a modern planting palette. Plant them in repeating groups through a border for a relaxed, natural look or pair with blush-toned tulips, flowering fruit trees and other pastel spring blooms.

Get daffodil bulbs into the ground before it freezes and then leave them alone – good news if you’re seeking genuine faff-free color as daffodils reliably return year and year, often forming larger clumps over time.

Zones 4-8 / Full sun to partial shade / Flowers late winter to late spring / Grows 8-30" high and 6-12" wide.

5. Smoky-Hued Dutch Iris

With tall, elegant flowers in electric blue, yellow and white, classic Dutch iris (Iris × hollandica) has long earned its place in our yards. But if your taste runs a little moodier, check out the less obvious cultivars in plum, brown, bronze, copper and wine shades. Their smoky coloring brings a sophisticated twist to the familiar iris silhouette and works particularly well in a more restrained, contemporary planting scheme.

Each bulb sends up a strong stem with an architectural bloom, and that upright, narrow habit makes Dutch iris especially useful for an already-full border that needs vertical punctuation. They are also excellent cut flowers, if you like bringing armfuls of the garden indoors.

Plant bulbs in early fall and water to settle the soil, then keep moisture fairly even while they're establishing. This iris typically benefits from a period of cool winter temperatures so in zones 8–9, check the supplier's instructions for the cultivar and local growing conditions; some bulbs can be planted directly in fall, while others may perform more reliably with appropriate chilling.

Zones 6-9 / Full sun / Flowers late spring to early summer / Grows 2-3' high and 6-12" wide.

6. Ombre Grape Hyacinths

Dinky grape hyacinths (Muscari) can be tucked around the bases of shrubs, in lawns or beneath taller daffodils and tulips, and squeeze into even the most crowded border. They’re one of the easiest spring flowering bulbs to grow, and newer multi-toned varieties bring lots more pizzazz than the usual solid-blue forms. Their appeal doesn’t stop at aesthetics either, as many of these rodent- and deer-resistant bulbs are sweetly fragrant and naturalize, gradually creating bigger clumps over time. They can occasionally be a little too enthusiastic, so plant in a spot where you won't mind some floral unruliness.

Plant grape hyacinths in fall before the ground freezes in well-drained soil, and forget scattering a handful here and there because this little stunner looks best among plenty of its own company.

Zones 4-8 / Full sun to partial shade / Flowers early to mid-spring / Grows 6-9" high and 2-6" wide.

7. Flamboyant Crown Imperial Fritillaries

Fritillaries are worth growing because they look like nothing else in the spring garden, and certainly aren’t shrinking violets! Crown imperial fritillary is the showstopper of all fritillaria with a whorl of pendant bells nodding beneath a tufted crown of leaves atop a sturdy stem. This architectural beauty looks almost too exotic to be hardy, but it returns year after year to wow neighbors and friends.

Despite the high-drama appearance, Fritillaria imperialis is surprisingly straightforward to grow. Just give bulbs well-drained soil as they’re prone to rotting in wet conditions. A clever tip for fall planting is to lay the bulbs on their sides to help prevent water from collecting in the little hollow on the top.

For maximum impact, use crown imperials as punctuation marks through a sunny spring border, giving them room to strut their stuff. A quirky bonus is their distinctive musky, slightly skunky scent, said to help keep rodents out of garden beds. It's not everyone's favorite fragrance, though, so best not to plant these showstoppers beside a seating area.

Zones 5-8 / Full sun to partial shade / Flowers mid to late spring / Grows 3-4’ high and 12-18” wide.

8. Ravishing Warm-Zone Ranunculus

For maximum flower power, ranunculus is hard to beat – especially when you consider that such lavish blooms emerge from a surprisingly small corm. Add these little energy stores to your list of what to plant in October, though, and you'll be rewarded with a spectacular succession of rose- or peony-like blooms that look as though they belong to a far more demanding plant.

The Reinette ranunculus types take the showiness up another notch, producing huge, densely layered double blooms with distinctive green centers. They’re also stars of the cutting garden with long-lasting flowers that look just as fabulous in a vase as they do in the border.

Plant the corms in fall or early winter when temperatures have started to cool but the soil isn't cold and saturated. Soak dry corms in room-temperature water for a few hours first to rehydrate them, then plant in a sunny spot and keep the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged. Ranunculus dislike sitting in cold, soggy ground, so plant in containers if you have heavy soil.

Zones 8-10 / Full sun to partial shade / Flowers late spring to summer / Grows 12-18" high and 4-6" wide.

9. Big-Bloomed Crocus

Crocus earns its place in every garden because it asks so little of you. While the small-flowered types are charming, bolder big-bloomed crocuses make more of an early-season statement. Emerging in late winter when there aren’t many garden goings-on, they're guaranteed attention-grabbers but remain petite enough to be tucked beneath deciduous shrubs, through lawns or along a border front. Crocus naturalize, too, so groups can become more impressive over time.

Growing crocus is wonderfully straightforward. Plant the corms in fall in well-drained soil before it freezes and water to settle the soil. Then let nature do the rest, as hardy spring-flowering crocuses need a period of cold to flower well. Plant in generous drifts and you'll have one of spring's loveliest little curtain-raisers, as flowers often closes their petals when the clouds roll in for even more garden charm.

Zones 3-8 / Full sun to partial shade / Flowers late winter to early spring / Grows 2-6" high and 3-6" wide

Top Tips for Successful Fall Bulb Planting

• Most spring-flowering bulbs prefer a sunny or lightly shaded position with good air circulation but do check conditions for individual varieties.
• Prioritize good drainage by mixing a handful of coarse sand, fine gravel or vermiculite such as Plantonix Vermiculite Bliss from Walmart and multi-purpose compost into the soil before planting. Soggy soil is the quickest way to lose bulbs and corms, so take time to improve soil drainage for long-term success.
• As a general rule, plant bulbs at 2-3 times their own height, measuring from the base of the bulb. Always follow the instructions for the specific variety, particularly with corms and smaller bulbs.
• Plant bulbs with the growing tip pointing upwards. If you're unsure which way is up, planting bulbs on their side will allow new growth to find its way to the surface.
• Water newly-planted bulbs thoroughly to settle the soil but then allow autumn and winter rainfall to provide moisture, watering only if needed.
• If you’re gardening in a warmer part of the US, check the chilling requirements as pre-chilled bulbs or refrigerated storage before planting may be recommended by the supplier.
• You can grow bulbs and corms not suited to your USDA zone in containers as long as you overwinter pots indoors, or you can lift and store just as you would a dahlia tuber.

I absolutely love the idea of birth month bulbs. There's always been, after all, something wonderfully satisfying about finding a flower that supposedly matches your personality, particularly when that flower is something you can actually plant in your garden.

Of course, this isn't exactly a new concept around here. We've already had birth month trees, birds, flowers, animals and even bugs, because apparently we will take any opportunity to decide that January people have the personality of a particular plant or that October babies are somehow inherently more butterfly-like than the rest of us.

Still, bulbs are particularly well suited to this concept. Unlike an annual flower that appears and disappears in a single season, many bulbs return year after year, quietly sitting beneath the soil before suddenly putting on a spectacular show. And there's something rather lovely about that, especially when you consider how different each bulb can be despite all starting out in much the same unassuming form.

All 12 Birth Month Bulbs

When it comes to birth month bulbs, some are delicate and understated, some are gloriously dramatic, and one or two are so striking that I suspect their birth month matches may have a slightly larger-than-life side to them. (I certainly wouldn't want to make any assumptions, of course).

So, whether you're a resilient snowdrop, a mysterious Queen of Night tulip or a bold November hyacinth, meet your birth month bulb... and find out how to grow it in your own garden, too.

January – Galanthus Nivalis

If you were born in January, you probably don't need a lot of fussing over. You're perfectly capable of getting on with things while everyone else is still recovering from Christmas, and there's something quietly determined about you that I rather admire, and that's why the snowdrop is such a great birth month bulb.

Galanthus nivalis is one of those tiny flowers that seems almost impossibly delicate until you remember that it can push through the cold and appear remarkably early in the year. Think of them as the first flower of the year, basically.

How to grow it: Pick up some Galanthus Nivalis Bulbs from Burpee and plant them in partial to full sun, around 3 inches deep and approximately 3 inches apart. They prefer soil that doesn't stay waterlogged, and they're particularly lovely planted in groups where their small white flowers can make a bigger impression. Burpee lists Galanthus as an early-spring bloomer and a fall-planted bulb.

February – Anemone Blanda

February can be a slightly awkward month; winter isn't quite finished, spring isn't quite here and we're all getting a little impatient for some color. But if you're a February baby, I'm guessing you're the optimist who can find something to look forward to anyway.

Anemone blanda (or Grecian windflower, if you prefer) has that same cheerful quality. Its daisy-like flowers arrive in spring in shades of blue, pink and white, creating a surprisingly generous carpet of color from relatively small plants. A pretty cheery birth month bulb, right?

How to grow it: Soak these Blue Shades Anemone Blanda Bulbs in warm water for a few hours before planting, as Burpee recommends, then plant them around 1–2 inches deep and 2–3 inches apart. They can grow in partial or full sun, and the Blue Shades variety is particularly useful if you're looking for a spring groundcover.

March – Ranunculus

There's something about ranunculus that makes it almost impossible not to be a little bit sentimental. Those layers upon layers of petals look as though someone has sat down and decided that one flower simply wasn't enough.

So, March babies, I'm going to assume you're similarly inclined towards the finer things in life! Especially as, just like your birth month bulb, you're creative, charming and perhaps just a tiny bit dramatic when the occasion calls for it.

How to grow it: Ranunculus bulbs (try these Purple Sensation Ranunculus Bulbs for something profoundly pretty) are spring-flowering and prefer full sun. Make sure you're planting them around 2 inches deep and 3–4 inches apart, give them well-drained soil, and avoid keeping them constantly soggy; the bulbs need moisture to establish, but sitting in water is another matter entirely.

April – Geranium Daffodil

April babies have got sunshine in their personality. You're welcoming, generous and probably the person people end up talking to for much longer than they intended because somehow you've made them feel completely at home.

Geranium daffodils as a birth month bulb, then, makes so much sense. It's one of those daffodil varieties that feels cheerful without being predictable, and it has a particularly lovely secret: in other words, there's more to this spring favourite than meets the eye.

How to grow it: Daffodils generally prefer partial to full sun and should be planted around 6–8 inches deep and 4–6 inches apart. Let the foliage die back naturally after flowering rather than immediately cutting it to the ground, because those leaves are busy replenishing the bulb for next year's display.

May – Blue Pearl Hyacinth

You know those people who walk into a room and somehow everyone notices them? That's May energy, and it makes sense, then, that they have a hyacinth to call their birth month bulb.

Not just any old hyacinth, though, but the Blue Pearl hyacinth. Oh sure, it isn't necessarily the loudest bulb in the garden, but it has two things going for it that are difficult to ignore: beautiful flowers and fragrance, which makes it a lovely match for anyone who likes their garden to engage more than just the eyes.

How to grow it: Plant hyacinth bulbs around 4–6 inches deep and the same distance apart, in partial or full sun. They work beautifully in groups, particularly near paths or entrances where you can actually enjoy their fragrance as you walk past.

June – Queen of Night Tulip

June babies, I'm not saying you're secretly plotting something. I'm simply saying that if anyone was going to have a favorite color that technically isn't a color, it would probably be you... which makes your birth month bulb a true icon.

Queen of Night is one of those types of tulips that makes you stop and look twice. Its flowers are such a deep burgundy-purple that they appear almost black, giving the spring garden a wonderfully gothic little moment.

How to grow it: Bag yourself some Queen of the Night tulip bulbs, and plant them around 4–5 inches deep and 3–6 inches apart in partial to full sun. Tulips are classic fall-planted spring bulbs, so autumn is the time to get them into the ground for a future display.

July – Princess Irene Tulip

Hey there, July. You're warm, you're sociable and you don't particularly see the point in being forgettable. If you're going to do something, you might as well make an entrance, right?

Princess Irene is a more than appropriate birth month bulb, then. Its orange flowers are dramatically marked with purple flames, so it has absolutely no interest in quietly disappearing into the flower bed. And, honestly, the color combination alone makes it a pretty good match for a July personality.

How to grow it: Plant your Princess Irene Tulip Bulbs around 4–5 inches deep and 3–6 inches apart in partial or full sun. Choose a spot with good drainage, water after planting to help establish the bulbs, and then let them settle in for winter.

August – Blue Grape Muscari

August babies have a special knack for bringing people together. You're friendly without necessarily trying to be, you probably enjoy a bit of chaos, and you're rarely the person standing silently in the corner at a garden party... much like your birth month bulb.

Blue grape muscari is small, but it certainly knows how to make an impression. Its dainty clusters of deep cobalt-blue blooms are the sort of flowers that look even better when planted in a generous group, which feels very appropriate for the most sociable month of summer.

How to grow it: Plant your Blue Grape Muscari Bulbs around 3–4 inches deep and 2–3 inches apart in partial to full sun. They're spring bloomers and are particularly effective when planted in groups, along paths or allowed to naturalize among other spring bulbs.

September – Iris

If you're a September-born soul, you're not necessarily the loudest person in the room, but you've probably noticed everything that's going on. You have excellent taste, you know what you like and you don't need to announce it to everyone else.

Your birth month bulb, the iris, feels like the floral equivalent. In particular, something like Burpee's Harmony Iris Reticulata has some of the most intense blue colour you'll find on a dwarf iris. Basically, it proves that you don't need to be enormous to make an impression.

How to grow it: Plant iris bulbs around 3–4 inches deep and 2–3 inches apart in partial to full sun. They bloom early in spring, so they're particularly useful for bringing colour into a garden before many of the bigger spring flowers get going.

October – Allium

October babies, we were never going to get a completely predictable flower as our birth month bulb. And, while alliums in general are the one for us, these Allium caeruleum from Bulbs Direct have, in particular, those wonderful spherical flower heads that make it look as though someone has scattered little blue fireworks through the border.

An easy-growing allium with a sky-blue color? Speaking as an October personality, I think that's exactly the sort of unexpected garden choice we all deserve.

How to grow it: Plant allium bulbs in full sun, around 4–6 inches deep and 3–6 inches apart. They flower in late spring, and the upright stems and rounded flower heads work particularly well among lower-growing perennials.

November – Crocus

Born in November? I see you, caught between Halloween and Christmas, and I know that you're resilient, perhaps a little understated, and quite capable of brightening things up when everyone else is starting to retreat indoors for winter.

That makes the crocus a rather lovely match. These petite flowers may not have the imposing presence of a tulip or the drama of a giant allium, but they have an uncanny ability to appear when we need them most, bringing little flashes of joy to the garden when the seasons are beginning to change.

How to grow it: Plant crocus corms in well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade, generally around 3–4 inches deep and a few inches apart. Choose the specific crocus carefully, though, as flowering time varies between species and cultivars; personally, I rate Flower Record Crocus Vernus Bulbs from Burpee for that truly intense purple pop.

December – Thalia Daffodil

December is already doing a lot. There's Christmas, New Year, approximately seventeen thousand social engagements and the small matter of trying to remember where you put all the presents. It's only fitting, then, that December gets something a little more refined for its birth month bulb.

Thalia is a pure-white daffodil with an understated elegance that makes it feel completely different from the traditional yellow varieties. It smells beautiful, is hardier than many yellow varieties, and is an all-round brilliant choice for anyone dreaming of a classy spring display.

How to grow it: Pick up some Thalia Daffodil Bulbs from the Garden State Bulb Co. Store and plant them around 6–8 inches deep and 4–6 inches apart in partial to full sun. Water them after planting, then allow the foliage to die back naturally once flowering has finished so the bulbs can store energy for another spring display.

Shop Bulb Planting Essentials:

And just like that, you know your birth month bulb! Will you be planting yours this fall, ready to see it break through the soil come spring? I know I certainly will; I'll be filling my garden borders with alliums quite happily... and I'm sure local pollinators will thank me for it next year, too!

Want a spring lawn that's filled with flowers next year? Now is the perfect time to plant crocus bulbs to create a dreamy carpet of colorful blooms that appear in the early days of spring.

Getting a full, colorful naturalized crocus lawn that whimsically fills your whole yard can be a challenge though. The reality is often a few lonely flowers scattered here and there, rather than a tapestry of bright spring blooms.

I consulted with some experts about why crocus lawns often underperform and how you can avoid this issue. Here's what they said the biggest problem (as well as a few other mistakes to avoid) and how you should plant bulbs this fall for stunning results next spring.

You're Not Planting Enough Bulbs

"The biggest reason crocus lawns do not turn out the way people want is quite simple," says Erik Collado Vidal, CEO of Growbarato.net and a horticulturalist with expertise in the cultivation industry. "Gardeners usually plant too few bulbs but still expect to wake up to a full carpet of crocuses the next spring."

Mario Galo of G&V Tree Service agrees and puts a specific number to it. "Most people place bulbs too equally and widely apart. Plant 75–100+ bulbs per square meter in random clusters rather than rows to replicate natural spread for maximum impact," he says.

While the instinct to space out bulbs evenly and add quite a few is obviously understandable, it works against everything most people want. Crocus bulbs are small and need to be planted 3-5 inches apart (8-10 cm). But Vidal recommends going even tighter with spacing in each group, as close as 1-3 inches (2.5-7.5 cm), and planting bulbs in irregular, wave-like clusters rather than neat lines.

"The biggest mistake is when they are planted in narrow rows or when a small number of bulbs is spread across a large area," he says. "That almost always looks sparse and disappointing."

Planting a ton of bulbs can be time-consuming. But this DeWit Crocus Bulb Planter (available on Amazon) is super helpful and will make it so you can plant hundreds of bulbs at a time.

This process is not only time-consuming, but your knees will be aching by the end. This Klarg Kneeling Pad (available on Amazon) has extra-thick foam to protect them, and it’s budget-friendly.

Your Mowing Habits Could Be Undermining Everything

Even if you get the planting down perfectly, a crocus lawn can still get weak over time if the grass is mowed too soon after they flower. The leaves need to complete a full cycle of turning yellow and dying back before you mow the lawn again, which will be about 6 weeks after the flowers fade.

"If you cut the grass too early, the leaves will not get enough time to feed the bulbs," Vidal warns. "This will make the flowers look weaker over time."

Galo echoes the point, warning, "Mowing bulbs too soon weakens them and stops them from growing."

Don't Overlook Hidden Threats

Sometimes the problem isn't technique at all, but tiny little animals munching on your bulbs. David Joles, COO of PURCOR Pest Solutions, points to animal pests as an overlooked cause of crocus lawn failure.

He says, "The problem primarily lies with animal pests that go after the bulbs for food – voles, mice, squirrels, chipmunks, rabbits, and others. Once they discover the crocus bulbs in your yard, your lawn becomes a goldmine for them."

Becky Heath, President and CEO of Brent and Becky's Bulbs, has seen this firsthand and flags the vole as the main guilty party or the ringleader of the pest gang, as you might start referring to them.

She also raises two other overlooked factors: herbicides used in standard lawn care that can make it harder for anything other than grass to grow and the impact of a harsh winter on shallow planted bulbs.

"Since crocus bulbs are small, they are often only planted about 2 to 3 inches deep," she notes. "If their roots had not had the opportunity to grow and get established before temperatures dropped significantly, it's possible that some of them froze."

Choose the Right Crocus

Not all crocuses are equally suited to life on the lawn. Both experts point to Crocus tommasinianus as the standout choice when it comes to naturalizing in grass. It reliably self-seeds, can handle competition on turf better than larger hybrid varieties, and does super well in thin grass or under deciduous trees.

Brent and Becky’s Bulbs sells Crocus tommasinianus on their website in quantities divisible by ten and they’re even squirrel-resistant. Other crocus varieties include Crocus chrysanthus varieties like 'Cream Beauty,' 'Gipsy Girl', 'Ruby Giant', and 'Whitewell Purple'.

Stick to these tips and that carpet of color you’ve been dreaming about will be genuinely achievable next spring.

Planting bulbs now is one of the best ways to enjoy beautiful spring flowers, but this year, why not try some less obvious choices? Tulips and daffodils are gorgeous and long associated with spring, but there are plenty of other flowers you could enjoy in your colorful spring garden.

Try adding some lesser-known spring flowering bulbs for a more unique mix. Some of these provide earlier flowers, unusual shapes, different heights and textures, and added pollinator value. September is generally a good time to get these bulbs in the ground, but be sure to check the proper planting time based on your growing zone before you get started. If you want to install new beds before you get digging, consider these all-in-one beds from Garden in Minutes, which have an irrigation system already built in.

1. Crocus

Crocuses are among the first flowers to bloom in spring, so choose these if you want early color. You might even see these cheerful white or purple flowers come up from the snow in late winter or early spring.

Depending on variety, crocuses are generally suitable for zones 3 through 8 and should be planted in September. Plant them pointy end up three to four inches (8 to 10 cm) deep and in soil that drains well. After the blooms fade, let the leaves stay in place and die back naturally, so they can supply the corms with energy for the next year’s blooms.

2. Allium

Ornamental alliums are part of the onion and garlic family and grow from bulbs planted in September or October. They flower in late spring and early summer, so combine them with spring-blooming bulbs for continuous color. Alliums are notable for their globe-like flower clusters in shades of purple on tall, sturdy stems.

You can grow alliums in zones 3 through 8, but check the specific hardiness zones for the variety you buy. They are generally untouched by critters who like to nibble other bulbs, so alliums are a good choice for yards with a lot of deer or squirrels. Plant each bulb about three to four times as deep as it is long.

3. Ranunculus

Ranunculus blooms in early and mid-spring with beautiful, rose-like flowers. These look pretty in mixed beds and in areas where you want a lot of showy color for spring.

Ranunculus are perennials in zones 8 through 10 and annuals in colder climates. Plant these bulbs in September in warmer climates. In cooler climates, you might want to wait until spring or grow them in containers you can protect from winter cold. Plant the bulbs with the “claws” pointing down, about one to two inches (2.5 to 5.0 cm) deep.

4. Fritillaria

Fritillaria blooms with unique, hanging, bell-shaped flowers. They come in a variety of colors, including a checkerboard pattern. They bloom in mid- to late-spring, so pair with early spring and early summer flowers.

In general, you can grow fritillaria in zones 4 through 8, but it depends on the variety. Follow instructions for planting depth specific to the type. Fritillaria bulbs are usually planted to a depth several times their length. Good drainage is essential, including in winter.

5. Snowdrops

For the earliest of all spring flowers, choose snowdrops. They bloom with delicate, white, bell-shaped flowers, often emerging when snow is still on the ground. Plant snowdrops in wooded areas, as they prefer some shade.

You can grow snowdrops in zones 3 to 8. Plant the bulbs in early fall two to three inches deep in soil that is moist but still drains well. During the growing season, they prefer moist soil and will naturalize readily in areas that provide the right conditions.

6. Camassia

Camassia is also called wild hyacinth and is native to North America. It blooms with multiple star-shaped flowers in blue, purple, or white on tall stems. Camassia flowers in late spring and looks nice in naturalized areas, in meadows, or in informal beds alongside perennials.

Camassia tolerates more moisture in the soil than most bulbs, so you can use this in soggier areas like rain gardens or low areas of the garden. These bulbs are suitable for zones 4 through 8 and should be planted in September or October to a depth of four to six inches (5 to 8 cm).

7. Spring Starflower

Spring starflower (Ipheion uniflorum) is a tough, low-growing South American native that has more or less naturalized in North America. Reaching just 3-6 inches (5-10 cm) in height, its star-shaped blossoms come in shades of blue, purple, and white.

Hardy in USDA zones 5-9, spring starflower is an excellent ground cover that forms dense, weed-suppressing mats and smells amazing while doing it.

Welcome to Garden Mythbusters, a new series with a simple premise: plenty of garden advice gets repeated for decades without anyone checking whether it really holds up. Well, some of it does, but some turns out to be half-remembered folklore wearing a lab coat. Fall bulb planting comes with one rule many gardeners know by heart, and September is the perfect time to give it a closer look.

The one rule you’ll hear a lot with bulb planting is this one: pointy end up. The majority of guides to planting fall bulbs lead with this stern instruction, but few explain what really happens when a bulb goes in sideways or upside down, or what to do if the bulb sitting in your palm has no discernible point at all. That last situation comes up surprisingly often, stalling an otherwise productive fall afternoon for no reason.

If you’ve ever fretted about whether a bulb might be growing “the wrong way” or not at all, or how to plant that funny-shaped object the best way, you’ve come to the right place. Understanding this advice (and when you can ignore it) is the key to planting with confidence. And the truth is that mother nature is more forgiving than the rule suggests. In the first of our series, I explain why nature’s underground guidance system throws this old rule into question, and why depth and drainage matter more.

How the Pointy End Myth Began

Many packages for spring flowering bulbs carry the same line printed on the back: point up, flat side down. That flat side is known as the basal plate, the compressed stem tissue from which roots emerge. On the other end, the pointed nose holds the embryonic shoot. For a traditional tulip or a classic daffodil, the anatomy reads well enough. One end tapers into a point, while the other is scuffed and concave, maybe bearing a few root hairs. The instruction makes intuitive sense for those species.

The trouble starts when this blanket rule gets applied to everything else in your fall order box. A seasonal shipment rarely holds tulips alone. Corms, tubers, and rhizomes often arrive in the exact same box, sold under the catch-all of bulbs, yet they possess different shapes. Let’s break it down:

• True Bulbs: Concentric shapes with the basal plate and a growing tip. Think tulips, daffodils and alliums. For daffodil lovers after bold sunshine trumpets, Dutch Master Daffodils from Eden Brothers are a classic of this distinctive “pointy end” true bulb variety.
• Corms: Solid stem tissue flattened on top and bottom, often lacking a single clear point. Crocus and gladiolus are examples of corms.
• Tubers: These are dried root masses that resemble wrinkled pebbles or claw-like fists, with no obvious top or bottom. Think Grecian windflower, anemone, or ranunculus. Grab some lovely Van Zyverden Windflowers from Walmart and you can see how these bargain bloomers arrive as these nobbly masses.

Where the pointy end rule came from is no mystery. It’s easy to see why commercial growers and catalogs settled on a single sentence for dozens of species, and "pointy end up" did the job. Over time, though, this simple guideline has hardened into a rigid warning. So growers can now fear that a bulb set the wrong way might sit and rot, or drive its flower down into the subsoil never to be seen again. Nurseries repeat it, garden clubs repeat it, and so that bulb planting rule persists…

Why the Myth Sticks: Gravitropism

Part of the reason this myth sticks around is simple: it works. Pointy end up is technically correct for most of what shows up in a standard fall bulb order, so the rule rarely gets stress-tested. Depending on bulb variety, there is certainly some appeal to a rule with a clean right and a clean wrong. The rule also flatters the gardener, suggesting the plant is completely dependent on careful human hands to get started. This is a pleasant thought, but in real terms it’s far from true.

The plant has its own system, and it goes by the name of gravitropism (or geotropism). You could say this is the bulb’s own internal GPS. Dense starch granules (called statoliths) inside certain cells settle to the low side, which is how the tissue registers the direction that gravity pulls in. This cellular settling signals to the plant exactly which way is down:

• Shoots grow against gravity: A bulb planted upside down pushes its first shoot out, quickly senses the gravitational pull, and executes an underground U-turn, curving upward toward the soil surface. This is negative gravitropism.
• Roots grow with gravity: Roots emerging from an inverted basal plate automatically curve downward, anchoring the plant securely into the subsoil regardless of orientation. This is positive gravitropism.

Problems with this Myth

Taken as gospel, the "pointy end" rule costs us valuable time, and occasionally some healthy blooms. Anxious gardeners can dig up beds they planted 3 weeks earlier just to check bulb orientation. By that time, tender root systems have begun emerging, and digging them up inflicts far more damage than inverted orientation could. Other gardeners slow to a crawl, inspecting every nobbly arrival when a hundred could be tucked into the ground before sunset. Bags of corms get set aside for being confusing, which is how a bargain sack of crocus sits in the shed until March.

There is a quieter cost as well. Fixing on orientation as the make-or-break detail tends to skate past the things that really can determine the success of your spring displays: planting depth, drainage, and getting bulbs settled while soil holds enough warmth. Planting a bulb too shallow exposes it to temperature swings and hungry squirrels, while planting too deep exhausts its stored energy before the shoot hits light. Using a bulb planter with depth measurements added, such as the excellent Fiskars Steel Bulb Transplanter with Depth Marks from Amazon, can help with this, so you don’t have to rely purely on guesswork.

Soggy, waterlogged soil deprives roots of oxygen and invites fungal rot. A tulip planted perfectly upright in standing water will rot long before spring. If you’re worried about your soil at planting time, adding a handful of Plantonix Perlite Bliss, available from Walmart, can make the world of difference to clay beds. It can also boost aeration and help prevent waterlogging and rot (which is often the real bulb killer). And getting bulbs settled while September soil still holds warm ambient heat allows the roots to establish before winter freezes the ground. Adding a sprinkle of Espoma Organic Bone Meal, from The Home Depot, to the ground helps to boost bulb production in a gentle way during the early stages, so your favorite blooms stay healthy over winter.

Beyond the Myth: Thinking Sideways

While gravity ensures an inverted bulb eventually finds the sky, planting orientation is not completely irrelevant. An upside-down daffodil buried 8 inches (20cm) deep must expend extra energy executing that underground U-turn. So a shoot pointing the wrong way has a longer trip to the surface than one aimed correctly from the start. This can result in slightly shorter stems or delayed flowering during its first season.

Furthermore, some bulbs carry clever visual shortcuts and handy quirks. Many tulip bulb varieties, for example, feature a noticeably flattened side on their outer tunic. The largest first leaf always emerges from this flat side. This is why some growers pot them with that side turned toward the rim of a pot or along the front edge of a bed. For specimens with no discernible top, try this checklist instead:

• Crocus: Often flattened on both sides, crocus corms sprout roots around their lower perimeter. If you cannot spot the slight dimple of the top shoot, simply plant them on their side.
• Grecian windflower: These dried tubers look like irregular pebbles. Trying to find a top is nearly impossible. Soaking them in lukewarm water for 3-4 hours before planting plumps the tissue, after which you can drop them into the soil in any orientation. Sideways works brilliantly.
• Ranunculus and anemone: Tubers with finger-like claws should be planted with those claws pointing down, as these are the root structures.

When in doubt, plant any uncertain bulb or corm on its side. It might not be ideal, but planting sideways will shorten the distance an upside-down shoot must travel to turn upward, while allowing roots immediate access to lower soil moisture. Planting on the side is the standard fallback for anything uncertain, and most will right themselves as they grow.

Layered Planting & Containers

If you want to maximize flower impact in tight spaces or patio pots, worrying about strict orientation becomes even less necessary. Container growing allows you to practice the popular bulb lasagna technique, layering different species at varying soil depths in a single deep pot to achieve a continuous, multi-week spring display.

• Bottom layer: Plant late-blooming alliums like Purple Sensation from Amazon and late-season tulips, 8-10 inches (20-25cm) deep.
• Middle layer: Place mid-season bloomers, like trumpet daffodils and fragrant hyacinths, in the middle, 5-6 inches (12-15cm) deep.
• Top layer: Plant early spring dwarf species, like crocus and muscari, about 2-3 inches (5-8cm) deep. Pretty pale Blue Marlin Crocus Bulbs from Eden Brothers are perfect for container bulb planting without the hassles about which way is up.

Container growing offers a massive advantage for upside-down bulbs. High-quality potting soil mixes tend to be lighter, looser, and more aerated. In a pot, an upside-down or sideways bulb encounters almost zero physical soil resistance. Its embryonic shoot can execute a U-turn effortlessly as it heads for the surface.

That said, you can help your bulbs along with a little rocket boost of bulb feed. A gentle, slow-release nutrient boost from Espoma Organic Bulb-tone Plant Food, available from Lowe's, ensures that even sideways-planted corms develop thick root networks before winter freezes the container core.

Take Action – Plant Bulbs Now!

September opens bulb planting season across much of the country, though colder northern regions can continue through October as long as the ground remains workable. So grab your favorite bulb planter, your bag of bulbs, and of course your kneeling mat. Something thick, like the Garden Guru Extra Thick Kneeling Mat from Walmart, is ultra kind to knees and brilliant for happy bulb planting.

For classic impact without the hassles, narcissus (daffodils) and alliums are the most forgiving options. Both want a planting depth of roughly 6-8 inches (15-20cm) in full sun to partial shade. Their large size makes them easy to read at a glance, and both are naturally toxic to deer, rabbits, and burrowing voles. For lawn edges and rock gardens, crocus corms and Grecian windflowers are easygoing. Crocus corms sit 3-4 inches (8-10cm) deep, while windflower tubers nestle 2-3 inches (5-8cm) down.

Rather than stressing over which way up is right, aim for proper depth, amend heavy soil with organic material or perlite for drainage, and press the soil firmly. Fall bulb planting rewards whoever just gets on with it. Tuck in more than seems reasonable this month, close enough to correct, and then let spring settle the argument.

If you’d like to check out some more mythbusting, read my guide to companion planting myths to make sure you aren’t making a few common mistakes planting some well-loved vegetables side by side.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Hyacinth blooms are a glorious way to scent your home for the holidays and for flowers in December, you need to start bulbs in September. Getting organised early is the only tricky part of growing hyacinth bulbs – the rest is a breeze and boy, it's worth the effort to enjoy fresh, fragrant flowers in the depths of winter.

In bud, a hyacinth's fragrance is fresh and green like a sunny spring day. As the flowers open, the aroma skips straight to high summer, intensely floral and sweetly intoxicating with subtle hints of vanilla and spice. Just one hyacinth can scent an entire room and combine beautifully with all the nostalgic aromas of Christmas cooking, adding unforgettable fragrance to your home through the holidays. So ditch the Christmas scented candles and grow some plant-based fragrance instead.

Here’s what to do, step by straightforward step, to get great results when forcing hyacinth bulbs. And make plenty, as these must-have holiday decor plants make lovely little gifts to give to friends and family.

How to Force Hyacinth Bulbs for Christmas

1. Buy Prepared Bulbs

Left to their own devices, hyacinths are spring-flowering bulbs that naturally bloom between March and May. To enjoy flowers in December, you need to buy bulbs that have been harvested early and heat-treated to trick them into blooming early. These will be clearly marked as ‘prepared’ bulbs. In September, you’ll find prepared hyacinth bulbs for forcing at your local garden center or nursery, and they're usually stocked by Walmart and Lowe’s.

You can plant standard hyacinth bulbs and trick them into growing early, but they’ll typically only grow leaves and are unlikely to flower.

2. Calculate the Timeline

To work out when to plant hyacinth bulbs, work back from the date you want flowers. As a general rule, hyacinth flowers last for 2-3 weeks, giving you a good window, and prepared bulbs take 12-14 weeks to flower. Some varieties take a little less – ‘Anna Marie’ typically blooms in 10 weeks – so check the packaging or online description. Heat and light levels will also affect the process, so it’s a smart idea to stagger planting over a couple of weeks. Not only does this increase the odds of timing holiday flowers just right, plants at multiple development stages adds to the fragrance.

3. Decide if You Want to Grow in Water or Soil

You can force Christmas hyacinths in water or potting soil, and your choice isn’t just down to aesthetics.

If you’re planning on throwing your bulbs once they’re done flowering, growing them in water is super-stylish and elegant. It's hygienic, too, if you’ll be using the living blooms as table decorations, and the visible roots adding another layer of interest. If you plan to plant your hyacinths outdoors for border blooms year after year, though, it’s best to grow them in soil.

In water, you’ll need glass forcing vases such as these from Amazon, with a narrower waist that holds bulbs above the water line. You can also force hyacinth bulbs in any shallow glass vase like this from Amazon, half-filled with pebbles to keep the bulbs from rotting in the water. Using pebbles also means you can use old mason jars.

To grow bulbs in soil, you need excellent drainage so use a potting mix intended for cacti and succulents like Hoffman Organic Cactus & Succulent Soil Mix, available from Walmart, or coco coir such as these Organic Coco Coir Pellets from Amazon. Any planter is fine as long as it’s twice as deep as the bulbs are high. A drainage hole isn’t essential, so many folk choose to use pretty bowls or upcycled tins as planters.

4. Set the Bulbs

The outer skin of hyacinth bulbs contains microscopic sharp calcium oxalate crystals, so always wear gloves to handle them.

In soil, first dampen the potting mix and add a layer to the base of the container. Place the flat base of the bulbs on the soil so their pointed ends are uppermost. As long as the bulbs don’t touch each other or the side of the planter, you can pack them in closely. Tuck more just-moist compost around the bulbs, leaving the ‘nose’ or the top quarter of the bulbs exposed.

In water, fill your vase or container of pebbles up with water to a level where it will sit just under the bulb. The bulb shouldn’t touch the water but the gap should only be ⅛–¼ inch. Place the bulb, pointed end up, in the vase cradle or on the pebbles.

5. Store in a Cool, Dark Place

Stand in a cool, dark but frost-free shed or garage, putting pots or vases in black polythene bags to keep out the light if needs be, for 10-12 weeks. The ideal temperature will be 42-48°F. Check bulbs regularly, topping up the water so the level says just beneath the bulb base in a glass vase or so the soil is just-moist in a pot. You’ll soon spot root growth in vases and, by December, you should see shoots coming from the top of the bulb in both vases and pots. Don't be alarmed that they're yellow – that results from the lack of light and leaves will soon green up.

6. Move the Bulbs Indoors

When those top shoots are around 2 inches high, carefully move your vases or pots indoors. Don’t place them into a hot room or bright sunlight straight away or the shock may stop the bulbs flowering. Instead, put them in a cool room out of direct sunlight – the back of a north-facing room is ideal. Once the leaves have greened up, gradually shift them into warmer, sunnier conditions.

Keep the water topped up as before, but there’s no need to feed the bulbs. Giving the pot or vase a quarter-turn every couple of days will keep the stems growing straight up, as hyacinths have a tendency to lean towards the light, when the top-heavy stems will need staking.

7. Control the Blooming Period

The warmer and lighter the conditions, the faster the bulbs will flower, allowing you to influence when they bloom and get the timing just right for the holidays. To slow blooming down, move hyacinths to a cool spot that falls to 50-60°F at night, out of direct sunlight. Do make sure the plant still gets plenty of indirect light, though, or the stem will stretch and weaken as it searches for more sunshine.

The flowers at the base of the cluster will open first, with blooming progressing upwards over a week to 10 days. Once blooms begin to open, keeping your plant away from hot radiators and fires and direct sun will steady the process and you can expect your hyacinth to last in full flower for a couple of weeks.

And there you have it, beautiful blooms for the holidays, ready to decorate with whatever you fancy to fit in with your Christmas decor.

How to Replant a Forced Hyacinth Outdoors

If you want to plant your soil-grown hyacinth outside once it’s done blooming, you’ll need to help it replace energy stores in its bulb. Keep the plant on a warm, sunny windowsill and keep it watered, cutting off the flower spike at the base once it fades to stop it wasting energy on seed production. It will take around two months for the foliage to wither, and don’t be tempted to cut them off or braid them, because the plant needs all its leafy solar panels to generate energy.

Gradually reduce watering and once the leaves are fully brown, remove the bulb from the pot, brush off any soil and pull or cut off the foliage. Leave to air dry in a warm but shady spot for a week, then once fully dry pop the bulb into a brown paper bag and store in a cool, dark, dry spot. Plant in October at a depth of two or three times the height of the bulb, and expect flowers next spring.

A host of golden daffodils might be the literal gold standard, thanks to William Wordsworth’s iconic poem – but there is one variety in particular that seems to be replacing classic yellow daffs as the new favorite.

Yes, summer might be winding down, but don’t put away your trowel just yet! September is when many gardeners start thinking about their spring bulb orders (even if the planting window can extend well into fall, depending on which USDA zone you’re in). That means now is a good time to look beyond the usual tulips and familiar yellow daffodils and think about what you actually want your spring garden to look like when it bursts to life next year.

Now, there's nothing wrong with a classic yellow daffodil. I, for one, adore those cheerful trumpets as they're easy to grow, hardy and dependable, and they reliably announce the arrival of a new season like tiny garden heralds. Still, if you're about to order another bag of the same old daffodils you've planted for years, there's one variety I'd suggest putting on your fall shopping list instead....

The Daffodil Quietly Replacing Classic Yellow Varieties

Narcissus 'Thalia' is a daffodil, but it looks nothing like the big yellow trumpets that usually come to mind. Its elegant white flowers hang from the stems in clusters, creating a softer, more naturalistic display. And unlike some plants that look delicate but demand plenty of attention, 'Thalia' is a tough bulb that can return and naturalize for years.

Bonus? It's also fragrant, which makes it particularly appealing when planted somewhere you'll actually be able to enjoy it up close.

Shop Narcissus 'Thalia' Essentials:

Unlike the familiar yellow or yellow-and-white combination of many classic daffodils, the 'Thalia' (a member of the orchid daffodil family) produces between two and four creamy white flowers on each 35-40cm tall stem.

This gives them a windswept and whimsical appearance, which helps to create a more natural-looking spring garden. Better still, it tolerates partial shade and excess moisture better than most daffodils – making it an option for pots and borders, as well as beneath deciduous trees. You could even allow it to spread through a naturalized area.

While it looks dainty (and boasts well over a century of old world charm to its name), it's lovely and low-maintenance, making it a good choice for gardeners who want plenty of spring interest without a long list of jobs to do. Plus, it's also generally unappealing to deer and rabbits, which is another reason to consider it if your garden regularly becomes a buffet for wildlife.

This, along with its sweet fragrance, means that planting it somewhere you pass regularly can make those first weeks of spring feel much more special. And because 'Thalia' is also a good choice for cutting, you can bring some of those flowers indoors once they bloom, too!

Shop Scented Daffodils:

Fall is the moment when we're deciding what we want our gardens to look like next spring. And, while it's tempting to reach for the same old bulbs we've planted before (particularly when we already know they'll work), now is the perfect time to experiment.

'Thalia' doesn't replace every classic yellow daffodil in every garden, because, sometimes, you want that burst of unmistakable spring yellow. If you're looking for something more elegant and sweet-smelling, though, this lesser-known daffodil is worth a place in your fall planting plans.

Honestly? I bet that, once you see those clusters of white flowers appearing next spring, you'll wonder why you didn't plant them sooner.

Dahlias are among the most lush, dramatic and beautiful of garden flowers, appearing in tropical-punch shades. I have heard the blooms called “swoon-worthy,” and though I have never in my life used that term, it does seem appropriate. The flowers appear delicate, almost fragile, but they are actually tough and durable. blooms in gorgeous “tropical punch” hues. These blooms look delicate, but they are tough and hold up well to handling.

Given the fragile beauty of the flowers, you might think that dahlia care is complex, but not so. They are surprisingly easy to grow and care for. However, your flowers may experience late-season issues that lead to small, dull, or dropping blooms. But if you give your dahlias appropriate late September care, you can help them shine right through the fall.

Why Are My Dahlias Looking Sad?

Dahlias are late-season favorites, blooming happily from mid-summer through the first frost in fall. But as summer shifts into fall, problems sometimes arise, with dull, wilting, or dropping blooms.

If you want to point a finger at the culprits causing these issues, you’ll need both hands. Some of the issues are simply seasonal, like the shorter day length and the hot sun of August. Some are fungal, like powdery mildew and tuber rot; some are nutritional like potassium and phosphorus shortages after months of growth. If this is the problem, you might need a dose of dahlia fertilizer, which you can get on Amazon.

Others are caused by pests, and still others by well-meaning but inept humans (like improper deadheading and too much fertilizer.)

How to Solve September Dahlia Problems

You can’t stop the day length from shortening nor the sun from blazing hot in August. But you can solve a lot of dahlia’s early-autumn blues by taking these five easy steps.

1. Change Your Irrigation Practices

As the hot dry summer transforms into cool, rainy autumn, your dahlias need less water from you. As the local rainfall increases, you need to adjust your watering. Water pooling around the dahlia stems can result in rotting stems and fungal issues.

This isn’t an exact science. You don’t have to measure the amount of rainfall and reduce the amount of water you provide by that amount. Just keep an eye out for weather, and if an appreciable amount of rain falls, water your dahlias less each week.

2. Just Say No to Nitrogen Fertilizer

You fertilize dahlias with nitrogen in order to encourage new growth. But the new growth is soft, weak, green growth that won’t do well in the cooling weather. This type of growth is a beacon for pests and also invites fungal issues. And you want the plants to start hardening off their stems in September. In addition, a dahlia’s primary job in September is to finish its bloom cycle, not to add new growth. So cease all nitrogen feeding by September.

However, low- or no-nitrogen fertilizer will help those beautiful dahlias if it is high in potassium and phosphorus. These nutrients have been depleted after months of growth. This type of feed will encourage robust final blooms.

3. Deadhead Properly

Deadheading dahlias in September can be a positive step toward extending flowering, but done wrong, it can be a very negative step. Improper deadheading in early fall can cause your dahlias to stop blooming prematurely or encourage disease.

“Bad” deadheading can be as simple as mistaking fresh buds for spent seedpods and snipping them off, reducing the amount of flowers. It’s equally bad (or worse) to adapt an “off with their heads” philosophy, pinching off the flower heads right below the bloom. This leaves the hollow stems standing. They fill with water from fall rains, then rot, inviting fungal issues or pests.

“Good” deadheading looks very different. You follow the spent flower stem down to where it meets a lateral leaf node. Make the cut just above that intersection at a slight angle. This helps the dahlias achieve peak production in September. Clipping off the dead blossoms this way stops the plant from wasting energy on seed pods so it has energy to produce new buds.

4. Improve Airflow

Improving airflow for dahlias in September is not just a “nice” gesture. It might be the single best way to keep those blooms coming while avoiding late-season dahlia powdery mildew.

September is a moist month. It ushers in cooler nights and heavier morning dew. The dahlia’s incredible, dense late-summer growth traps in all that moisture. That means party time dahlia disease and fungal spores.

Open up your plants through September by pruning off the leaves from the bottom 6 inches (15cm) of the stalks. This clears a wind "tunnel" at the base of the dahlias, letting a breeze pass gaily through the patch, rapidly drying out morning dew and rain. It also reduces the possibility that soil-borne fungal spores will splash up onto the leaves during heavy September rains.

This is incredibly effective, especially if you also thin out crowded interior stems. Stand above your dahlia plants and look down into the center. You are likely to see a tangled mass of weak, overlapping, or non-blooming stems. Trim away crossing or weak inner branches, remove yellowing or damaged leaves.

Balance Is Key to Managing Late-Season Blooms

Every gardener would like their dahlias to bloom right up until Christmas. But we all know that in order to have flowers the following season, the dahlia tubers must have time to refill their energy. The rest the tubers require is the very reason for dormancy.

The key to enjoying late season blooms without depleting the tubers’ energy is balance. Yes, you can still cut dahlias for vases indoors; just cut shorter stems instead of longer ones. When you take out long stems in fall, it causes the dahlia to waste energy rebuilding lost vegetation instead of storing sugars in the tubers

Second, taper off the water supply, letting the soil dry out more between waterings than you did in summer. This signals to the plants that winter is coming, prompting the dahlia to begin funneling its resources underground.

Finally, take advantage of the “killing frost.” Don’t cut back the plants until the first hard frost hits. This cold snap causes the dahlia to dive into dormancy, sending a final flush of sugar to the roots. At that point, cut the stalks to 5 inches (25cm) tall. Two weeks later, lift the dahlia tubers from the ground. The brief curing period toughens the tubers, ensuring that they store well and sprout vigorously in spring.

Dahlia Care Essentials

Adding saffron crocus bulbs to your lawn is so easy yet these tiny blooms light up dull fall days in the garden. Most autumn-flowering bulbs need to be planted in spring, but fast-blooming Crocus sativus can be planted in September for blooms in late October and November, so add it to your list of bulbs to plant in fall. Part of the Weekend Win series, this is a 10-minute job that brings a big reward, making saffron crocus one of the best set-and-forget bulbs to buy now.

The chalice-shaped flowers of Crocus sativus grow just 3-6 inches high with petals in the most beautiful lavender hue that’s a fabulous contrast to the fiery tones of fall. Saffron crocus are fabulous plants to refresh containers for fall, too, but adding them to your lawn really shows off their beautiful shape and shade. By the time they bloom, you’ll have stopped mowing your lawn, so you can enjoy drifts of color for many weeks, for years to come.

But the best bit? You can buy 20 Crocus sativus bulbs from Jackson & Perkins for $17.95, which is less than $1 a bulb. So, as budget ideas for a beautiful fall backyard go, this fall crocus is a winner. Here’s exactly what to do…

• Saffron crocus needs full sun and excellent drainage, so choose a suitable spot, avoiding any areas of the lawn where rainwater pools, as this will rot the bulbs. For a natural-looking drift, it’s best to plant one fairly dense clump of bulbs then dot a few bulbs at random intervals around this area.
• To plant the main clump, slice an ‘H’ shape or three sides of a square in the turf and carefully peel back the layer(s) of grass. The turf should separate from the soil easily but slide a spade beneath the grass roots if needs be.
• Plant the bulbs around 4-6 inches deep with the pointed end uppermost and flat root end down. Try and space the bulbs randomly, keeping them at least 4 inches apart.

• Roll the grass back into place and press down to firm the soil.
• For the bulbs set randomly around the central clump, the easiest method is to use a transplanting trowel like this from Amazon (transplanting trowels have a sharper, more pointed end than standard trowels) or a bulb planter that removes plugs of turf like this ProPlugger bulb planter from Lowe’s. To get a natural effect, try throwing the bulbs up in the air and planting them where they fall.

• Water well to ensure the soil settles around the bulbs, and you’ll see flowers in 6 to 10 weeks.

Saffron crocus are suitable for growing in zones 3 through 8 and each year, the mother bulb is replaced by several new baby corms. This is a gentle process, so don’t worry that they’ll take over your lawn. The fall flowers are sterile, too, so they don’t produce viable seeds, meaning your crocus drift will stay where you planted it. Blooms still produce nectar and pollen though, making them a valuable source of food for late-flying bees and a great addition to your list of garden pollinator-friendly plants.

When the plants are done flowering, the green grass-like leaves remain through winter, feeding bulbs for next year’s blooms. Once the foliage starts to wither in spring, it’s fine to mow this area of your lawn again. In warmer zones where grass is still growing in fall and early spring, simply plant saffron crocus towards the edge of your lawn so you can easily mow around the drifts as part of your lawn care.

More Weekend Wins

This feature is part of the Weekend Win series, packed with quick and easy 10-minute gardening tasks that bring a big reward.

Fall color is heavily associated with foliage. As the heat of August gives way to crisp September mornings, most gardeners assume the floral season is drawing to a quiet close. And the idea that we can plant bulbs now that can reward us with color before the year is out might seem unbelievable. We’re conditioned to treat our bulbs as a lesson in delayed gratification, tucking sleeping tulips and daffodils into cold earth and waiting 6 long months for a spring payoff.

But some botanical sprinters don’t need to wait nearly that long if pushed into the ground now. Planted in September, these bulbs, corms, and tubers nudge through the mulch while everything around them is winding down. The bulb planting routine is much the same as with other bulbs you might be planting now, but there is no chilling period to get through first. Tucking these unique corms and tubers into warm early September soil yields a stunning reward: brilliant goblets, starry umbels, and jewel-toned petals bursting through the ground in just a few short weeks.

And if the prospect of magical fall blooms wasn’t enough of a treat, these late-season bloomers also provide a vital, nectar-rich lifeline for native pollinators making their final pre-winter rounds. Getting these bulbs in the ground during early September takes advantage of residual late-summer soil warmth, sparking rapid root establishment and triggering instant floral spikes. It is an effortless afternoon project that completely transforms how your yard will look – so let’s get ready for the magic.

Choosing Bulbs for Fall Color

The main rule with these fall bulbs is: get them in the ground fast. Dormancy in this group holds for a narrow window. A few will open flowers inside the bag if they sit on a shelf too long. Unlike spring bulbs that require months of chilling in damp winter earth, autumn specialists are adapted to hot, dry summer dormancies. Drainage matters more than richness. These bulbs aren’t fans of heavy clay. If planted in waterlogged soil, the fleshy corms will rot before they can send up flower scapes.

Select spots with naturally sharp drainage, such as sloped rock gardens, raised beds, or the rain-shadowed foot of a south-facing masonry wall. Working some coarse horticultural grit, perlite, or pumice into native soil instantly improves aeration and root penetration. If you haven’t got a bulb planter, there are a range of types with varying degrees of comfort and control, from standing to squatting! For entry-level ease of use, try the Edward Tools Bulb Planter with Depth Marker, available from Amazon, which is exceptional value and gentle on the wrists.

Planting depth for this group requires strict attention, as standard depth rules often do not apply. While traditional bulbs need to go deep (roughly 3 times their height), surface-blooming tubers like Cyclamen hederifolium sit barely covered under an inch of topsoil, while neck-emerging species like Lycoris require their tips exposed to air and sun. So check the instructions on the packet when planting. Don’t forget to grab your gloves before planting, as a few of these bulbs are poisonous. Beyond that, the time is right for bringing on some very special fall color…

1. Colchicum

Catalogs routinely sell this as autumn crocus. Colchicum (C. autumnale) sits in a different family, and the tell is 6 stamens where a true crocus carries 3. Hopefully what lands in your mailbox is a fat corm. These corms are famously eager. In fact, if left sitting in a paper shipping bag on a kitchen counter in September, they will push out leafless lilac goblets right on the shelf. To get the best floral show, set them into rich, well-draining garden soil the very day they arrive in the mail.

Set it 3-4 inches (8-10cm) deep in rich ground the day it arrives. If the soil has gone hard and you’re after a long-handled bulb planter, I recommend the Colwelt Long Handled Bulb Planter Tool from Amazon. Planted in early September, these bulbs bloom within 2-4 weeks. Tucking them behind hostas, daylilies, or hardy geraniums will mask the spring foliage without shading the fall flower show. Plant under creeping thyme or low-growing stonecrop to keep the blossoms from flopping in rainstorms. Buy Daylily Nursery Colchicum Bulbs from Walmart.

2. Saffron Crocus

Cooks have a reason to grow this one. Saffron crocus (C. sativus) is a genuine crocus. Each lilac flower carries 3 red stigmas. Those dry down into the spice, and it takes around 150 flowers to make a single gram. Combining culinary luxury with ornamental beauty, this bloomer is a treasure for the autumn garden. Drainage is non-negotiable. If planted in heavy, waterlogged clay, the corms will succumb to fungal soft rot. If your native soil is heavy, grow them in terracotta pots filled with a 50/50 mix of potting soil and coarse horticultural sand.

Plant corms 3-4 inches (8-10cm) deep and 4 inches (10cm) apart in the sunniest, driest gravel border or patio container you have. By mid-to-late October, delicate violet goblets will push up through grass-like foliage, each displaying the crimson stigmas that can be hand-harvested with tweezers for culinary use. As a sterile hybrid, the plant will not self-seed. However, a healthy clump will multiply steadily via corm offsets over 2-3 years, yielding a lovely spice harvest every autumn. You can buy Marde Ross & Company Saffron Crocus Bulbs from Amazon.

3. Autumn Daffodil

For anyone who longs for the cheerful, egg-yolk yellow of spring in the middle of autumn, Sternbergia lutea is a joy. Goblet-shaped flowers emerge on 6-inch (15cm) stems, in a yellow lifted straight off a daffodil. This earns it the name of autumn daffodil, although technically it isn’t. The flowers arrive alongside crisp, dark green strap-like foliage which remains vibrant through winter, providing texture long after frost has cleared other perennials.

Native to sun-baked Mediterranean hillsides, this bulb requires a gritty planting site that bakes in summer heat. Bury bulbs 4-5 inches (10-13cm) deep at the base of a south-facing brick or stone wall, where the masonry can absorb and radiate heat back into the soil. Zones 7-9 are best, and zone 6 can work against a warm wall under a mulch of dry, pine needles. Avoid disturbing or dividing established clumps, as it detests root disruption and can take a year or two to recover if moved. You can buy Autumn Daffodil Bulbs from reputable fall bulb suppliers Brent & Becky’s Bulbs.

4. Hardy Cyclamen

Dry shade under a mature tree might defeat a lot of bulbs. Hardy cyclamen (C. hederifolium) thrives in it. The corky, saucer-like tubers push up exquisite pink or white blossoms through to November. As the flowers fade, intricate silver-marbled foliage unfurls, forming a weed-suppressing groundcover that stays pristine through winter. However, while established plants bloom immediately, fresh tubers might put on a modest leaf display this fall and launch their full floral magic next year. You can currently buy Hardy Cyclamen Bulbs from Easy to Grow Bulbs at a 35% discount.

Plant the tubers just 1 inch (2.5cm) deep with the concave side facing up. Orientation matters here: this species roots from the top and shoulders rather than the base. Also, rodents and squirrels love digging up fresh tubers. Pin a scrap of hardware cloth like Everbilt Galvanized Steel Mesh Cloth from Home Depot over the planting for the first month. The delicate flower stems will easily push right through the wire mesh while pests are blocked out. Expect floral carpets by the second year.

5. Red Spider Lily

There is no warning with this one. Red spider lily (Lycoris radiata) scapes come up fast after the first soaking rain that follows a hot spell. They reach 12-18 inches (30-45cm), and open into coral-red umbels with stamens curling out like wire. Known as the Hurricane Lily in the South, this beauty delivers high dramatic impact in zones 7-10 (6 with shelter), and scapes can grow 2 inches (5cm) a day. You can buy SB Store’s Heirloom Red Spider Lily Bulbs from Amazon in packs for a great price.

Proper planting depth is the single most critical factor for triggering blooms. The long neck of the bulb must sit at or slightly above the soil surface. If buried deep like a tulip, the bulb will produce plenty of strap-like winter leaves, but will stay flowerless. Because the plant disappears in June and July, it’s a good idea to mark planting spots with stakes so you don't accidentally slice through sleeping bulbs with a spade. Newly planted dry bulbs may skip flowering during their first autumn while building roots, but they establish quickly and bloom reliably every September after that.

6. Nerine

Nerine (N. bowdenii) sends up umbels of narrow, wavy-edged petals on 18-inch (45cm) stems. Bringing neon vibrancy to the late autumn garden, this bulb (aka the Guernsey lily) produces sparkling pink flowers with wavy petals. Blooming in October and persisting well into November, nerines are a beacon for late-season butterflies and beneficial pollinators. Position them along main pathways or near entryways, where their pretty hues can be appreciated up close.

Plant with the top of the bulb at or slightly above the surface, in the driest ground you have. These bulbs thrive with sharp drainage and root confinement, against a sunny, south-facing stone or brick wall. Allow the clumps to multiply for 5-7 years before considering division. In colder zones (zone 6 and below), grow in terracotta pots that can be overwintered in a frost-free garage or basement. If you hurry, you can pick up some Guernsey Lily Bulbs by Seeds, Bulbs, Plants & More from Amazon.

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Fall-planted bulbs are such a simple, easy way to add drama to your garden. Plant them in autumn then forget all about them, and they’ll bring striking blooms to borders and patio containers all through spring into summer – and these are flowering plants that practically grow themselves. But here’s the thing: when new bulb varieties are introduced, there aren’t very many to go round. That’s for commercial reasons, to test the market and see if we gardeners are ready for diva-ruffle daffodils or modern-art alliums, but also because of the time it takes to produce large quantities of a fresh variety.

So, if you want to have the newest, most fabulous flowers in your garden, you need to buy your bulbs a good few weeks before it’s time to plant them. And if you look at any online retailer selling fall-planted bulbs, you’ll see that plenty are already sold out. And it's such an easy task to store bulbs. They'll arrive in a dormant state so it's as easy as popping them in breathable paper bags – Kraft brown paper lunch bags such as these from Amazon are perfect – and stashing in a cool, dark, dry spot with good air movement. A shed or garage is a good choice, or a spare bedroom if it’s baking hot outdoors; the ideal temperature is between 50 and 60°F.

And your reward for getting organised and buying bulbs early to plant in fall? Just take a look at these easy-to-grow beauties, all offering plenty of blooms for your bucks, and all raised from bulbs that can be planted in fall. Some are brand new cultivars, others are fresh to the US market, so you can be sure they’ll grab everyone’s attention in your garden.

Top 10 New Bulbs to Order in August for Fall Planting

1. The Rare Tulip that Stops Everyone in Their Tracks

• Zones 3-8
• Full sun or partial shade
• Flowers mid-late spring
• Grows 24" high

Grow this amazing tulip and prepare to be dazzled! Tulipa ‘Strawberry Cream’ starts off looking like a perfectly ordinary tulip, albeit a green one. But then layer upon layer of sugar-pink petals start to peek though, creating this incredible dome shape. And – there’s more! – the flowers finally splay open, looking far more like roses than tulips. Despite its fancy appearance, this rare bulb is easy to grow, making it one of the best tulips to add to your garden this year.

2. The Allium with Crazy Attitude

• Zones 3-9
• Full sun
• Flowers May-June
• Grows to 20" high

We all went wild for Allium ‘Hair’ (available from Dutch Grown) with its curious crown of green tepals when it was introduced by Dutch breeders, and now there’s a new kid on the block hailing from the Netherlands. Allium scorodoprasum ‘Art’ grows its small purple flowers on the ends of long, wiry stems. Butterflies adore alliums, so expect those blooms to be regularly topped with some colorful wings, too. With each flower lasting 2-4 weeks, and the structural seedheads for months more, these bulbs offer great value for garden space as well as your hard-earned dollars.

3. The Daffodil with Diva Ruffles

• Zones 3-8
• Full sun or partial shade
• Flowers mid-late spring
• Grows 18-20" high

If Lady Gaga were a daffodil, she would undoubtedly be Narcissus 'Bellabombe'. With extravagant bursts of petals in peach and apricot-yellow tones layered like an over-the-top tulle gown, this flamboyant bloom sure likes to be the center of attention. Leave the green leaves to die back naturally so they can feed the bulb, and this perennial has staying power, returning year after year for another fabulous show, and it will become one of the best daffodils in your yard. It lasts well in a vase so makes a great cut flower, which will allow you appreciate its delicate fragrance, too.

4. The Anemone that’s Highly Prized by Florists

• Zones 7-10 (2-6 if overwintered indoors)
• Full sun or partial shade
• Flowers early-mid spring
• Grows 18" high

You can understand why florists are falling over themselves to get hold of this joyful anemone. It’s a double-flowered variety with densely-layered petals in a dream combination of blush white to coral red, and stems lasts for over a week in a vase. And will you just look at that dramatically dark center! Happy in pots as well as well-drained borders, the filigree foliage of Anemone Fullstar Red/White is pretty, too. While it’s hardy in zones 7-10, by growing in a pot you can easily overwinter it indoors in cooler climes.

5. The Tulip that Thinks it’s a Peony

• Zones 3-8
• Full sun
• Flowers April-May
• Grows to 20" high

Imagine if your front yard was full of these eye-catcher tulips that look just like peonies: all your neighbors would want to know what they are! Tulipa ‘Mystery Dream’ does indeed look like a tulip that was conjured up in dreamland, with double petals that shift color in changing light from a velvety magenta to almost black. They make excellent cut flowers, too, so plant plenty.

6. The Bulb No-One's Ever Heard Of

• Zones 5-9
• Full sun or partial shade
• Flowers late spring-early summer
• Grows 6-12" high

Have you ever seen this blue bombshell before? Because if you have, I’ll be very surprised! Scilla peruviana, the Portuguese squill, grows dome-shaped clusters of star-shaped flowers in the most glorious violet-blue hue. Because each flower blooms from the outside, inwards, this is a treat that lasts for weeks, and the foliage is a wonderfully fresh green that’s just perfect in a late-spring garden. The plant is smaller than you might imagine, and each bulb grows one flower, so plant plenty, along border edges and in patio pots, or use them to underplant bigger perennials that enjoy the same well-draining conditions.

7. The Candy-Cane Oxalis that Unfurls in the Sun

• Zones 7-9 (2-6 if overwintered indoors)
• Full sun or partial shade
• Flowers spring, summer and fall
• Grows to 8-12" high

This little firecracker may only grow to a handspan height but, boy, it’s a feisty flower unlike any other. For a start, its blooms have white petals edged in red, giving a striped candy-cane appearance when closed – and because these flowers only open in full sun, they regularly unfurl then return to this fabulous funnel shape. While they’re only fully hardy in zones 7-9, Oxalis Versicolor is a cracking choice for a patio coffee-table pot, and growing it in a container means you can easily overwinter it in a warmer spot.

8. The Whimsical Crocus that Graces Winter’s End

• Zones 4-8
• Full sun or partial shade
• Flowers late winter-early spring
• Grows 4" high

The level of elegant beauty Crocus ‘Whale Shark’ brings to a late-winter garden far outweighs its diminutive size. Though it only reaches 4 inches high, the flowers account for pretty much its entire height and purple petals are brushed with a silvery white that’s simply divine. It blooms earlier than most crocus so pop this little gem at the front of borders, in pots and under trees and it will cheer up those short end-of-winter days a treat. Add groups to your lawn, too, as you won’t be mowing your grass at this time of the year.

9. The Tiny Tulip with a Huge Personality

• Zones 3-9
• Full sun or partial shade
• Flowers mid-late spring
• Grows 4-6" high

Yes, yes, this tiny tulip only reaches 6 inches high, but don’t let that fool you. Tulipa ‘Little Beauty’ brings a riot of color in spring with hot-pink petals around an azure blue center. And, because flowers close up every night into tight buds to protect pollen until day-flying pollinators return, and may not open at all on cloudy or rainy days, the vibrant show is a real treat. A reliable perennial, Tulip ‘Little Beauty’ slowly multiplies so you can easily create naturalized drifts in your lawn.

10. The Exquisitely Elegant Deep Burgundy Allium

• Zones 3-9
• Full sun
• Flowers May-June
• Grows to 34" high

Alliums are some of the best bulbs to grow in your garden if you like plenty of bloom for your buck, as plants require little to no maintenance and by growing a few varieties, you can have flowers all through summer. Favorites include six-foot-tall July bloomer ‘Summer Drummer’ (available from Dutch Grown) and the pretty little bobbing balls of Allium Sphaerocephalon (also available from Dutch Grown) – but their color palette is firmly centred around violet.

Allium atropurpurem, however, is the most exquisite burgundy tone that somehow manages to be both dark and vibrant at the same time, making it a firm contender to join the list of best alliums to grow. Originating from Eastern Europe, this exotic beauty has seriously sturdy stems so while the flowers are over by the end of June, the seedheads bring texture to borders for months more.

When to Plant Bulbs in Fall

The exact best time to plant depends on the bulb and your zone. Bulbs are best put into the ground when soil temperatures drop consistently below 55°F, which is easy to measure with a simple soil thermometer like this $12 temperature probe from Walmart. This is typically around 6 weeks before your first frost.

Spring flowering bulbs such as daffodils and crocus do best if they’re put into the ground by the end of September so they have time to start growing roots. Late-spring and summer-flowering bulbs like to get into the ground in September or October, while tulips are better planted a little later in November.

How to Plant Bulbs in Fall

• The biggest secret to planting bulbs in fall is excellent drainage because, left to sit in soggy soil all winter, they can rot. That’s easily achieved by mixing coarse sand, fine gravel or horticultural grit such as Jacks Gritty Mix from Walmart into soil before planting, whether that’s in a pot or the ground.

• Pick a sunny spot. Nearly all fall-planted bulbs need plenty of sun – while some will tolerate partial shade, they need sunshine for part of the day.
• Plant bulbs two or three times their own height, and twice the bulbs’ width apart. So, a bulb that’s 3 inches high and wide would need to be planted 6-9 inches deep and around 6 inches apart. In a container, you can reduce the spacing to one bulb-width apart.

• If you’re planting multiple bulbs in the ground, a bulb planter speeds the process. For bigger bulbs, a hand-held tool such as the Zenport Bulb Planter from Lowe’s is best, and long-handled stand-up bulb planters are also available from Lowe’s. Another speedy option is to use an auger such as this from Amazon which attaches to a standard 3/8" hex drive drill, to create the planting holes. If you’re planting drifts of small bulbs in a lawn, then a tool that removes plugs such as this ProPlugger bulb planter from Lowe’s is a better option.
• Place the bulb in the hole, pointy-end up, and fill with soil, firming with hands or the back of a rake. There’s no need to water in when planting bulbs in fall.

• We've chosen to recommend bulbs from Dutch Grown because they come with a 100% grow guarantee.

Dahlias are well known for putting on a spectacular show. By August, many varieties are bursting into vibrant parades of unabashed beauty. But even though they are late-season bloomers, and can theoretically delight well into fall, continued flowering is by no means a sure thing as fall approaches. Heat stress, mildew, and pests can all have an impact, not to mention just keeping those blooms standing upright.

Depending on when yours started blooming (not to mention your local climate), even the most prolific dahlia varieties might be starting to fade or flop by the tail end of summer. They’ve been hard at work putting out new growth, buds, and flowers, after all. While expending all that energy, the various perils of the season can take their toll. So while this is their prime time, it doesn’t mean you can take a step back.

The good news is that it’s really easy to stay on top of things, so your dahlias keep dazzling for as long as possible. Whether you grow sprawling varieties, pompons, or compact patio cultivars, devoting 20 minutes this week to a few thoughtful tweaks will encourage more buds and hence more beautiful dinnerplate blooms. Here’s how to keep your darlings healthy, upright, and flush with color right up to first frost.

Quick Dahlia Tasks in August

Before jumping into these easy wins, take a few minutes to check your soil moisture and environmental conditions. Dahlias originate from Mexico and Central America, where they thrive in warm days, cool nights, and free-draining soil. In temperate areas (USDA hardiness zones 3-8), or warm southern zones ( 9-11), their shallow root systems are vulnerable. Container-grown dahlias face even harsher conditions, as pot soil can reach scorching temperatures that can stop root absorption.

Dahlias need consistent moisture to continue blooming. Light, daily sprinkles will dry out quickly and don’t allow water to penetrate deeply enough to reach all the roots. Focus on watering less often (2-3 times per week) but more deeply. Water at the base to keep leaves dry and to discourage fungal infections. To get a really good sense of conditions at root level, test the moisture at a 4-inch (10cm) depth, using a simple probe like the highly rated XLUX Soil Moisture Meter, available from Amazon.

Before hitting this checklist, it’s also a good idea to check and refresh the mulch around your dahlias. Where it looks dry, replace it with a 2-inch (5cm) blanket of shredded bark, such as Vigoro Premium Brown Wood Shredded Mulch, available at The Home Depot. Mulching can reduce soil moisture loss by up to 40%, giving your plants a more stable basis for the following jobs. Make a little time for these tasks now, and you’ll add loads of extra time to your dahlia’s blooming life and intensity.

1. Deadhead Flowers and Trim Back Stems

Deadheading is a simple trick to keeping your dahlia blooms burgeoning into fall. Leaving spent flowers on their stems means plants start putting energy into making seeds – and essentially stop flowering. So aim to remove faded flowers right away, and make this task a twice-weekly feature. Rather than snipping just below the flower, cut just above the next set of healthy leaves. This encourages branching, resulting in bushier growth with more opportunities for flowers to develop and bloom.

To make clean cuts through thick, fibrous dahlia stems without crushing delicate vascular tissue, use razor-sharp snips like Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Shears from Walmart for precision trimming that won’t tear at tissue. Collect spent blooms and leggy trimmings cleanly as you move down the border. You’ll be amazed how quickly these faded heads can accumulate, so go for something sturdy, like the KingWillow Wicker Basket from Amazon which is both practical and elegantly rustic. Expect to see fresh side shoots pushing new buds within 7-10 days of pruning.

If you get confused between new buds and spent heads, here’s a quick check. The round, marble-like buds are the fresh flowers, while the pointed, squishy cones are the spent blooms that have already shed their petals. Distinguishing between the two is vital when working through heavy-flowering cactus and semi-cactus varieties. Get this right, and your future showstoppers are well on their way.

2. Switch to a Bloom-Boosting Fertilizer

Dahlias are heavy feeders and benefit from regular feeding through the growing season. While you may have used a balanced fertilizer earlier in summer, now is the time to focus on the flowers, which means more potassium and less nitrogen. Nitrogen encourages foliage growth, while potassium is necessary for flower bud formation. Too much nitrogen produces weak, hollow stems that are incapable of supporting massive flower heads like those of Labyrinth or Emory Paul.

This month, you need a general flower-boosting product or any fertilizer that emphasizes potassium and phosphorus. This will help you to drive those extra blooms and intensify petal pigmentation, and it will also strengthen the plant’s tuber reserves for winter storage. Look for a 5-10-10 or 3-4-6 ratio, such as with Espoma’s Tomato-tone, available from Amazon. However, resist the urge to overfeed. Adding more potassium won’t magically create more flowers. The goal is to create balanced nutrition that supports a healthy plant while encouraging ongoing blooming.

To help with root structure and essential trace minerals, supplement every fortnight with an ocean-derived tonic like kelp or seaweed. For a budget booster, try Bloom City’s Organic Liquid Seaweed and Kelp Fertilizer from Walmart to nurture that generous bloom party. Remember to always water the root zone before applying liquid or granular fertilizers to prevent nutrient root burn.

3. Support Long Stems

Depending on your dahlia variety, your gorgeous blooms may be accompanied with very tall stems. However, heavy flowers can cause even strong stems to sag or flop. A single dinnerplate dahlia bloom can retain several ounces of rainwater, instantly doubling its weight and snapping unsupported main stalks with upsetting finality. So you need to check the strength of any supports you have in place, especially for massive decorative and dinnerplate varieties reaching 4-5 feet (1.2-1.5m) in height.

Add additional stakes at this point if necessary. Bamboo stakes are a great, natural choice for holding up dahlia stems and flowers. You can get affordable batches of bamboo online. Try Backyard X-Scapes 4ft Natural Bamboo from Walmart which arrive in packs of 25. These have natural yield but hold up well against late summer winds. Drive supports into the ground at a slight outward angle, inserting them 12 inches (30cm) deep and at least 2-3 inches (5-8cm) from the main tuber crown.

Use flexible, soft ties to secure stems to them. Stretch tape works well, or you can use twine like Nutscene Heritage Green Jute Garden Twine from Amazon for gentle support. Use a figure-eight pattern to avoid stem chafing against the stakes in windy conditions. Don't wrap ties tightly around soft green stems: always allow a little slack for stem expansion as the plant continues to grow. Properly secured plants will weather heavy summer downpours without losing a single bloom head.

4. Strip Lower Leaves to Support Airflow

Dahlias are prone to certain fungal infections, especially powdery mildew, which thrive in moist conditions with poor airflow. The lower foliage can become dense and even touch the ground, where it can pick up spores. Stripping this bottom foliage, often referred to as bottom-pruning or skirting, opens up the airway, allowing morning breezes to dry out soil and eliminate the conditions fungal spores need to germinate.

Target yellow leaves, damaged leaves, and those close to the ground. This simple task prevents vulnerable leaves from getting and staying damp. As an extra preventative measure (or if you aren’t sure which leaves to take), you can also get Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide from Walmart to keep botrytis at bay. Remember to use these treatments early in the morning or at dusk so you don’t scorch the leaves.

If you see any visibly infected foliage, remove it and dispose of it. Do not put it in a compost pile. Where you suspect an infection may have affected a part of the plant, spray the foliage with a gentle sulfur alternative, such as Captain Jack's Copper Fungicide Concentrate, available from Lowe’s. You can also prevent fungal diseases by watering carefully at the base of each plant, avoiding getting the leaves wet, and watering in the morning so leaves have a chance to dry through the day.

5. Watch for Pests

Check your dahlia plants regularly for signs of pests, so you can manage them before they turn into a major problem. August heat accelerates pest life cycles, allowing thrips, spider mites, and nocturnal earwigs to multiply rapidly. Thrips cause discolored or distorted flowers, like stippling, deformed buds, and silvery patches on leaves. Spider mites leave delicate webbing, while earwigs cause ragged bites in leaves and petals. Earwigs are particularly destructive to dahlias, because they hide inside developing bloom buds during the day and feast on petals by night.

Inspect petal crevices and leaf undersides. You can blast mites and thrips away with a strong spray of water. Honestly, this is a satisfying job, especially when you know you are keeping your dahlias in good fettle for a few more weeks of color. You can also manage pests organically with a neem application like Captain Jack’s Neem Max Concentrate from Walmart. Dilute and spray the leaves of your plants, then wipe. Use a pressurized pump sprayer like the Chapin 1-Gallon Lawn and Garden Sprayer from The Home Depot for an efficient mist application across dense dahlia borders.

Shop Dahlia Care Essentials

Keeping your dahlias standing tall, healthy, and covered in massive blooms through fall doesn't require a shed full of chemicals. A few treatments and protective supports is all it takes to ensure a spectacular show right up until the first frost. Here’s my trio of go-to treats for gorgeous dahlia blooms:

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Daylilies get their name from the fact that each flower only lasts for a day. Their big, bright blooms open wide for one glorious day then close up never to flower again. But, thankfully, each plant can put out many blooms in succession over the course of the summer. An established clump of daylilies can produce up to 200-400 flowers over the course of a month or more!

However, at a certain point in the season, most types of daylilies finish blooming for summer. If your plants are done for the season already, you may be wondering if there is a way to encourage a second flush of daylily flowers before summer ends.

Well, you’re in luck! There is one simple trick that can force daylilies to put out another round of blooms before fall arrives. Plus, it keeps plants looking lush and fresh all season long. Here’s how to do it.

Do All Daylilies Rebloom?

Every daylily plant produces multiple flowers per plant, but there are certain cultivars that are specifically bred to rebloom all summer. These remontant varieties keep producing new flowers multiple times per growing season and are a great way to add color that lasts all summer.

The extremely popular ‘Stello d’Oro’ daylily, which is available from Monrovia at Lowe’s, is a reblooming type that you can force into flowering a second time in late summer.

Other reblooming daylily cultivars include:

• ‘Barbara Mitchell’
• ‘Charles Johnston’
• ‘Dragon’s Eye’
• ‘Fairy Tale Pink’
• ‘Gentle Shepherd’
• ‘Good Fairy’
• ‘Green Flutter’
• ‘Happy Returns’
• ‘Hyperion’
• ‘Joan Senior’
• ‘Jolyene Nichole’
• ‘Mini Stella’
• ‘Parade Queen’
• ‘Pardon Me’
• ‘Raspberry Frolic’
• ‘Serene Madonna’
• ‘Siloam Double Classic’
• ‘Super Stella’
• ‘Strawberry Candy’
• ‘Wedding Band’

Daylilies are more likely to rebloom in the South where the growing season is longer. So if you live in the North in a cold climate with a short summer season, it may be harder to get flowers to rebloom before fall weather arrives.

The classic orange daylily (Hemerocallis fulva) will not rebloom, so just enjoy these blooms as they appear in summer and wait until next year to see their cheery flowers again.

How to Make Daylilies Rebloom

The best way to encourage a second flush of flowers is deadheading daylilies after old blooms fade. Deadheading forces the plant’s energy away from producing seeds in the seed pod where the faded flower was and instead redirects energy towards new growth – including new blooms.

Once a flower closes and begins to fade, use a pair of sharp, clean pruners (Editor-in-Chief Melanie swears by her Felco pruners from Amazon) to cut off the dead bloom. It’s best to prune away spent flowers before a seed pod starts to form.

Be careful not to accidentally cut off any unopened flowerbuds that have yet to bloom. Daylilies produce multiple flowers per stalk, known as a scape, that bloom in succession. But once all the flowers on a scape have bloomed, it’s best to cut off the entire stalk at the base of the plant.

Cutting back daylily flowers not only boosts blooming, but it also keeps plants looking fresher for longer. Spent flowers wither and fall off and eventually the entire flower stalk turns brown and can make your garden look untidy.

Another way that you can potentially get plants to put out a new flush of flowers is to divide daylilies. Divide and transplant daylilies in late summer or early fall, around August or September, in order to force new growth and encourage blooming. This method works best in areas with a long growing season because it can take plants a while to settle into their new home and set flower buds.

Woohoo! The very first dahlia blooms are freshly out and damn, aren’t they gorgeous? But July is not the time to sit back, relax and enjoy the display. July is a hard-working month for dahlia plants, and how well you look after them now determines how many flowers you get, how fabulously big they grow, and how long into fall the display lasts.

In July, dahlias are busy growing stems, leaves, flowers and buds, which uses up a heap of energy and moisture. They’re also dealing with long, hot days – and while all that sunshine fuels growth, high temperatures stress the plants. There’s no telling how long the current heatwave will last for, making these vital July gardening jobs to keep dahlias happy and healthy all the more important.

Why? Because while your dahlia plants will probably go ahead and flower for the next month or so, even with minimal care, they’ll quickly give up blooming once the first flush is over. Nurture your plants in July, however, and they’ll continue flowering into fall with far bigger, more beautiful blooms. Thanks to this summer’s heat, many dahlia varieties are already flowering with deeper, more intense colors this year. So, take care of these vital gardening jobs in July and this could be your most spectacular dahlia display, ever. Here's what to do with dahlias in July…

1. Water Deeply

When it comes to what dahlias need in July, moisture tops the list. While it’s important not to overwater newly planted tubers as they can easily rot, now your plants are established they need plenty of moisture. In the peak of summer, if there’s no rainfall, you need to be watering dahlias growing in the ground around three times a week. Container-grown dahlias are likely to need watering daily or, in extreme temperatures, twice a day.

Water the soil at the base of the plants, rather than the plants themselves, to prevent fungal issues. Opt to irrigate first thing in the morning and you'll reduce evaporation so more of that precious moisture reaches the roots. If your mulch is thinning by midsummer, you may also want to consider re-mulching with an organic mulch such as Miracle-Gro All Natural Mulch, available from Walmart. It'll lock that moisture in the ground and keep those tubers a little cooler too.

2. Fertilize Regularly

As soon as you spot flowerbuds, or if your plant is already actively flowering, you should be feeding dahlias once every 7-14 days. A soluble feed gives plants an instant boost, which makes it far easier to control the nutrient supply. Because here’s the thing that most home-growers miss: if a flowering plant is fertilized in a heatwave, it's going to need more moisture to facilitate the extra growth the feed fuels. If you provide that moisture, great. But if you don’t, the plant is put under a lot of unnecessary stress.

In the current heatwave conditions, with plenty of states already under a hosepipe ban, it’s vital to consider this before fertilizing. It’s best to reduce fertilizing in extreme temperatures, and using a soluble feed makes it easy to adjust feeding levels week by week. And remember, while you should never under-dilute plant food, you can absolutely over-dilute it to provide a more gentle nutrient boost.

To fuel abundant flowers at this time of the year, you need a feed that’s high in potassium. Use all-round flower food such as Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Bloom Booster, available from Lowe's, or a specialized dahlia feed such as TPS Plant Food Dahlia Fertilizer, available from Amazon. If you’re growing tomatoes and already have a liquid tomato fertilizer such as Espoma Organic Tomato!, also available from Amazon, you can use that, too – it’s also high in potassium and will do a similar job.

3. Deadhead Fading Flowers

Snipping off fading blooms will keep your dahlia focused on growing more flowers rather than producing seed. Deadheading regularly, every few days, is an important part of July dahlia care and makes a huge difference to how many blooms a plant will produce. So, if you're wondering how to get more dahlia flowers, don't skip this task: the quicker you remove those spent blooms once the petals start to fade, the more energy you'll redirect.

Use a pair of bypass pruning shears such as these from Lowe's to deadhead dahlias and, if you haven’t sharpened yours in a while, get a razor-edge on those blades with a sharpener such as this $7 tool from Amazon. Trace the stem of the faded flower down and cut just above the next bud, pair of leaves or main stem. This is far easier for the plant to deal with than cutting higher and leaving a bare stem end that could rot.

The trickiest part of deadheading dahlias is knowing what’s a fully spent bloom and what’s a new bud, because they can both look very similar – and you seriously don't want to remove all the flowers yet to come! It's easy to tell the difference once you know how, though.

New buds are round, tight, feel firm when you squeeze them and may have a glimmer of color at their centre, like this:

Spent flowers are more pointed and cone-shaped, feel slightly squishy when you squeeze them, may have brown tones, and look like this:

4. Make Quick Earwig Traps

Midsummer is prime earwig season and these critters are well known for chewing holes in dahlia foliage and ruining blooms. You probably won’t spot the earwigs themselves as they’re nocturnal, but the tell-tale signs are uneven holes or ragged edges on leaves, and shredded buds. You might also see dark earwig poop, known as frass, on the leaves.

If you don't mind this damage or it's minimal, don't worry about it – earwigs are useful bugs to have in your garden ecosystem as they eat aphids, mites and juvenile snails. If you want to curtail the damage, however, it’s simple to catch the culprits with homemade earwig traps.

Stuff dampened straw or dried grass into small plant pots or plastic cups and upend these on bamboo canes pushed into the ground around your dahlias (watch out for the tubers, though). Earwigs will crawl into these cozy, dark spaces after feeding so, in the morning, it’s a simple task to rehome them, and you don't have to move them far. Though they have wings, earwigs rarely travel more than 100 feet.

5. Prune Dahlias For Huge Blooms

If you fancy growing a few fabulously big dinnerplate dahlias, then there’s an extra job to be done – but it’s by no means an essential part of summer dahlia care. Disbudding involves removing sidebuds on a stem to force the plant into putting all its energy into growing the central flower. And the results can be incredible! Disbudding dahlias also brings longer stems for cut flowers.

You’ll get far fewer blooms overall if you disbud but, if you want to grow a few showstopper cut flowers for a special occasion, or just try something different with your dahlias this year, it’s worth it. You don’t need to disbud all the stems on an established plant, so why not try it with one or two stems and leave the rest?

Disbudding is a quick and easy job. Look at a dahlia stem and you’ll typically see it has a larger central bud and some side buds either side. Simply pinch or snap off all the side buds – do this in early morning when the plant is fully hydrated and the rigid stems snap far more easily.

Give your dahlia the care it needs in July, and it will reward you by flowering abundantly all through summer and fall, till the first frost. And that’s a heck of a lot of beautiful blooms for your efforts!

Next up in the gardening priority list is to prep your peonies for bigger flowers next year. This July gardening job is quick and easy to do but is another that has a huge impact on the quality of blooms you'll enjoy.

Calla lilies provide a touch of the tropics to summer gardens. Though gardeners in far southern climates can grow these beautiful flowers year-round, most of us have to accept that they'll only grow as annuals.

The other option is to dig up plants each fall and overwinter them, then replant them each spring as you would any other summer garden bulbs. Alternatively, you can grow calla lilies in containers indoors.

I'll walk you through the basics of caring for calla lilies indoors and out, no matter where you live.

Quick Calla Lily Facts

Planting Calla Lilies

Calla lily plants make a beautiful addition to the ornamental landscape. Though the graceful white calla lily flowers are the most common, available cultivars come in a wide range of colors.

Below, we will explore the basic needs of this stunning perennial in greater detail, as well as information for planting them in the garden and indoors in containers.

Soil Requirements

Calla lilies should be planted into well-amended beds with good drainage. Since they are quite adaptable, the rhizomes will grow well under a wide range of soil conditions, including those that consist of sand or clay. Their ideal garden soil should be neutral or slightly acidic with a pH of 5.6 to 6.5. You can test the pH with soil test kits, like this one on Amazon.

To successfully grow callas indoors, the plants can be placed into containers filled with a high-quality indoor potting mix, like this one from Miracle-Gro.

Light Requirements

Calla lilies grow best where they can receive part sun or full sun throughout the day. Ample light is essential to the production of flowers.

Still, gardeners living in areas that are especially warm or receive intense sunlight may want to consider planting calla lilies in beds that are shaded throughout the hottest parts of the afternoon.

Watering

Caring for calla lilies includes paying special attention to soil moisture. Indoor plants, as well as those grown directly in the garden, appreciate consistent moisture throughout the season in addition to adequate humidity.

In regions that receive regular rainfall, watering calla lilies in the garden is not often required once plants are established. However, the plants can benefit from drip irrigation, like this Rain Bird Watering Kit from Amazon, or soaker hoses in regions that are especially dry or prone to prolonged periods of drought.

Temperature & Humidity

Calla lily plants grow best where conditions are warm with temperatures of at least 70°F (21°C) during the day. Humidity in the environment also plays a key role in maintaining adequate levels of moisture.

Calla lily flowers can tolerate high temperatures in most gardens, provided the humidity conditions are ideal. Extreme heat can be detrimental to the plant, however, in regions that are dry or arid.

Fertilizing

You will need to fertilize calla lilies to keep them looking their best. Well-balanced fertilizers can be used any time before the plants start to flower. Both granulated and liquid feeds are good options, depending upon one's specific needs. This organic bloom-boosting fertilizer from Espoma is a good option.

As with most perennials, make certain to avoid using fertilizer after the plant has finished blooming.

Pruning

Calla lily flowers can be removed as they begin to fade from the plant. Deadheading calla lily flowers prevents the production of seeds and encourages repeat blooming.

Each spent flower stem should be removed carefully all the way back to the base of the plant. Dead or yellowing foliage can also be pruned in this manner, which helps to maintain a healthy and tidy appearance in garden beds.

Calla Lily Varieties

You can find a wide array of calla lily bulbs from Home Depot and your local garden center to grow in your garden. These are some of the most common varieties of calla lilies to look for:

• 'Crystal Clear' Calla Lily
• 'Garnet Glow' Calla Lily
• 'Odessa' Calla Lily
• 'Morning Sun' Calla Lily
• 'Picasso' Calla Lily

Propagation

Though it is possible to grow calla lily plants from seed, most gardeners prefer to divide those that have already established themselves in the garden. This can occur every three to five years and will result in flowers that are identical to the parent plant.

You should divide calla lilies in the fall while each plant is dormant. After carefully lifting rhizomes from the soil the roots can be cut apart. New divisions should have at least one healthy, viable growing eye.

Common Problems

While care for these plants is relatively simple, there are some common problems with calla lilies that gardeners need to be aware of.

Notable among these are diseases that directly affect the plants' rhizomes and foliage. Root rot, powdery mildew, and various kinds of wilt may be the direct result of excess moisture.

Several types of pests may also target calla lily plants. Slugs and Japanese beetles are the most problematic.

Container Care

Calla lilies are common houseplants because they do well growing in containers. But they will need occasional repotting to perform their best. If you grow calla lilies in pots, they will outgrow their containers and require repotting once every one or two years. Do this in the fall when the plants are dormant.

During repotting, you can also divide mature plants and replant them into new containers. Or you can just move your overgrown plant into a larger container that's about 1 inch (2.5 cm) larger in diameter than the old pot.

Frequently Asked Questions

Calla Lily Care Must-Haves

By June, dahlias are shifting from quiet tubers into serious growth, with plenty of foliage above ground and the first flower buds not far behind. This is the stretch when the plant builds the structure it will carry all season, from strong stems to a full canopy, while the root system continues filling out beneath the soil. A few well-timed jobs now can shape how the rest of the summer goes.

Skip this work and the plants will still grow – just messier, and with fewer blooms to show for it. Most of the dahlia care needed at this point is light work: a pinch here, a feed there, and nothing that eats up a whole afternoon. What matters most in June is timing, since a job done a couple of weeks late can cost you flowers further down the line.

These tasks don't all need to be done on the same afternoon. Spread them across a couple of weekends, work with whatever the weather's handing you, and the plants take care of the rest.

1. Get the Supports In Before the Plants Need Them

Taller dahlia types can reach 4 to 5 feet (1.2–1.5m), and the stems, for all their thickness, snap surprisingly easily once a flower head catches the wind. Driving in a stake now, while the plant is still compact, keeps the roots undisturbed. Leave it until later, once the tuber has spread underground, and there’s a real chance of spearing straight through it.

Single-stem types do fine with a sturdy bamboo cane or metal rod; bushier plants prefer a ring or cage to lean into. Heavy-duty plant stakes from Amazon can hold up for a full season without bowing under the weight.

Whatever support you use, tie stems loosely with something soft and leave room for them to thicken – dahlia stems put on real girth as summer wears on, and twine cinched tight in June will be cutting in by August.

June Dahlia Essentials

2. Pinch out the Growing Tip

Once a plant reaches around 12 to 16 inches (30–40cm) and has three or four sets of leaves, snapping out the very top growing point encourages it to branch rather than shoot straight up. That means more side stems – and more stems usually means more flowers, even if each bloom is a little smaller.

It feels wrong to lop off healthy growth just as things are taking off. Do it anyway. A clean thumbnail is enough for soft growth, though a small pair of snips gives a tidier cut on thicker stems – Fiskars Micro Tip pruning snips stay sharp and earn their keep well beyond dahlia season. Think of it as redirecting the plant’s energy, not setting it back.

3. Water Deep, Not Often

Newly sprouted dahlias don’t ask for much, and too much water around a tuber that hasn’t filled out its roots can rot it outright. Once the foliage is up and the plant is clearly motoring, though, its thirst climbs fast. A deep soak two or three times a week, letting the top inch (2.5cm) of soil dry out between, beats a daily splash that never reaches the roots.

Water dahlias at the base rather than over the leaves to keep the foliage dry and cut back on the mildew that dahlias are prone to in muggy weather. A soaker hose on a timer takes the guesswork out, and this kind of soaker hose kit from Amazon snakes between plants and runs slowly enough to properly sink in. Morning is the better slot where possible – leaves then have all day to dry off whatever does land on them.

4. Switch the Feed Toward Flowers

Early on, a balanced feed, or even a slightly nitrogen-leaning one, helps build leaves and stems. As June rolls on and buds begin to form, the priority shifts. Lean too hard on nitrogen now, and you end up with a lush green plant that’s stingy with flowers – all leaf, not much show.

When fertilizing dahlias, what you want is a high-potash feed, the same kind sold for tomatoes. Something like this Epsoma Organic Tomato Fertilizer, diluted and applied every couple of weeks once buds appear, keeps things ticking along. Go easy, though – dahlias aren’t especially hungry, and overfeeding does more harm than skipping a week.

5. Stay Ahead of Slugs and Earwigs

Few things love a young dahlia shoot more than slugs. Soft new growth can be shredded overnight, sometimes right back to the stem, and a plant can lose a whole flush of leaves before anyone clocks the damage. Earwigs tend to turn up a little later, working on petals once the flowers open – irritating, if rarely fatal.

Heading out after dark with a flashlight and picking them off by hand is grim, but it works, and it can be weirdly satisfying. Beer traps sunk to soil level draw slugs in overnight, while an upturned pot stuffed with straw does the same for earwigs, which crawl in to hide by morning. This is a preventative habit, not a one-and-done job – stay on it through the soft-growth weeks, and the plants should outgrow the worst of it.

6. Mulch Around the Base

A layer of mulch around each plant does a lot of quiet work. It holds moisture in the soil through hot spells, keeps the roots cooler, and slows the weeds that would otherwise drink up water meant for your flowers. In a dry June, that can be the difference between watering every other day and watering twice a week.

Compost works well here, as do leaf mold or well-rotted bark. Spread it a couple of inches (5cm) thick, but pull it back an inch or so from the stems, since mulch packed tight against them traps damp and invites rot. One catch: slugs shelter under mulch, too, so in a wet year, it is a bit of a trade-off. Most seasons, though, the moisture you save comes out ahead.

The gladiolus plant is a striking summer bulb also known as sword lily or flag flower. Depending on the variety, they can grow quite tall and produce spikes of vibrant, colorful flowers in summer and into fall. Glads thrive in full sun, adding height, color, and drama to beds. In addition to providing you with stunning garden flowers, they’ll attract valuable pollinators.

Here, we’ll guide you through every aspect of growing gladiolus, from planting bulbs, or corms as they are technically called, to summer care, fall lifting, and winter care. Keep in mind that glads are toxic to pets.

Let's dig right in so you can have the vibrant garden of your dreams.

Quick Gladiolus Facts

Planting Gladiolus Flowers

Gladiolus grow from corms, which, while different from bulbs, are often referred to that way. Corms are food storage structures. Gladiolus bulbs are hardy in USDA zones 7 through 10, but you can plant them in colder zones if you’re willing to dig the corms up in fall and store them for winter.

You can plant gladiolus corms in spring once the risk of a frost has passed. Some gardeners stagger the planting to get more continuous flowering and color, as the gladiolus flower spikes bloom from the bottom up.

Soil

Soil for planting gladiolus corms should be rich and fertile, so mix in some compost if your soil is poor. The soil also must drain very well. Make amendments to lighten heavy soil if needed. Soggy areas will rot the corms. If your soil is particularly heavy, raised beds will create better drainage. Glads do best in slightly acidic soil, but neutral soil is fine.

Light

You’ll get the most stunning and abundant gladiolus flowers if you plant them in full sun. This means ensuring they get six to eight hours of direct sunlight. Too much shade affects flower number and size, but also leads to weak stems that flop over as they become top-heavy with flowers. A little afternoon shade is fine in hotter climates.

Step-by-step Planting Guide

Planting gladiolus corms is easy and straightforward. Follow these steps for the best results:

1. Choose healthy, firm, and plump corms to plant. Look for and avoid signs of mold and rot, soft spots, and any damage. Larger corms produce more flowers, so size matters.
2. Wait to plant glads until the soil is adequately warm. There should be no risk of frost, and the soil should be consistently 55 degrees Fahrenheit (13 Celsius). A simple soil thermometer like this one from Amazon will take the guesswork out of planting.
3. Prepare the planting area by digging into and loosening the soil to a depth of about 12 inches (30 cm). Make any necessary amendments now, such as adding compost.
4. Plant the corms in holes four to six inches (10 to 15 cm) deep with the pointy end facing up toward the sky. Space individual corms about six inches apart.
5. Water your newly planted corms.
6. Consider staggering planting times from spring into early summer. Plant every two weeks to get more continuous blooms. This is an especially useful strategy in regions with long growing seasons.

How to Care for Gladiolus

Once planted and growing, gladiolus plants are relatively low-maintenance. They need water, a little fertilizer, and some light pruning.

Watering Gladiolus

While the soil shouldn’t be allowed to get soggy, glads do grow and flower best when it remains consistently moist. Water gladiolus deeply once or twice a week if it isn’t raining and more during hot, dry spells. You can reduce watering once the flowers begin to fade.

Mulch

Two to three inches (5.0 to 7.5 cm) of mulch around your glads will help keep moisture in the soil on hot summer days. Applying mulch also minimizes weed growth. Just keep a little area around the stems bare to prevent rot.

Fertilizer

If you’ve mixed compost into the soil at planting time, you don’t need to fertilize often. Apply a balanced liquid fertilizer just once, when you see new growth emerging from the planted corms. Bonide liquid plant food from Amazon is a good balanced option.

Pruning

Light pruning helps keep glads looking tidy and directs energy into the corm for next year. Once the flowers have faded, trim off the spikes. Leave foliage in place until it starts to yellow. The leaves, while green, are actively gathering energy to store in the corm. Once the leaves yellow or die back, you can remove them.

Gladiolus Varieties

There are several different types and varieties of gladiolus, offering you a choice of colors, sizes, and applications. Some types are best for cutting, and some are good for borders. These are some of the most popular and readily available glad types:

• Grandiflora. Grandiflora is the most common type of gladiolus. They’re tall and produce big flowers on striking spikes, which make excellent cut flowers. You can find grandifloras in pink, red, orange, white, purple, and even multi-colored varieties.
• Dwarf Grandiflora. For a shorter glad, choose a dwarf variety. They stay about two feet tall and shorter. They’re great for containers and windy areas where taller stems would struggle to remain upright.
• Butterfly. Butterfly gladiolus varieties have unique flower shapes. They are ruffled and have contrasting colors in the throat. They have a more delicate appearance than the classic grandiflora flowers. Burpee offers a gorgeous mix of butterfly gladiolus bulbs.
• Hardy. For colder growing zones, hardy varieties are more likely to survive winter outdoors, although there are limits. One example is Gladiolus byzantinus, which can stay outdoors with a thick mulch blanket up to zones 5 and 4. And G. nanus is both hardy and dwarf. They don’t flower as abundantly as grandifloras. You can find Gladiolus nanus hardy dwarf mix from Eden Brothers Nursery.

Propagating Gladiolus

You can propagate gladiolus by removing and replanting corm offsets known as cormlets. Dig up corms in the fall at the end of the growing season and look for cormlets. Separate these from the main corm and store for the winter. Plant the cormlets in spring as you would larger corms. They won’t flower until their second year in the ground.

Winter Care of Gladiolus

If you grow gladiolus in the warmer part of this flower’s hardiness range, you can leave the corms in the ground over winter. They should survive and regrow next spring. Apply a thick layer of mulch over the corms in the colder regions (zones 7 and 8) to provide some protection from cold temperatures.

In colder regions outside the hardiness range, you’ll need to lift and store your corms over winter to enjoy them again the following year. Dig up corms after the foliage has yellowed in fall. Dig them carefully to avoid damaging the corms. Wounds make the corms vulnerable to rot over winter.

Brush off excess dirt and remove any remaining plant material. Then, let your lifted corms dry in a cool, dry, and ventilated area for a couple of weeks. Store the dry corms mesh bags or paper bags in a cool, dry location for the winter. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit (2 to 10 Celsius). Check the corms periodically for signs of moisture or rot.

Common Gladiolus Problems

Glads are pretty dependable plants, but there are a few issues you might face:

• Corm Rot. Corms should be firm, not soft, which can indicate the start of corm rot. Above-ground signs of rotting include yellow foliage and weak growth. Make sure the soil where you plant drains very well and avoid overwatering.
• Floppy Stems. Weak growth, especially in tall varieties, makes gladiolus prone to flopping. Issues that cause this include too much shade, too much fertilizer, and strong winds. Even if they are healthy, tall gladiolus might need stakes to stay upright.
• Thrips. Mostly too small to see, thrips leave evidence of their presence, including brown spots or tips on leaves and streaked or distorted flowers.

Container Care

You can grow gladiolus in containers as long as you choose a pot with enough depth and weight to prevent it from tipping over. Dwarf types are the best suited to container growing. Pots should be at least 12 inches (30 cm) deep.

Use a good quality potting mix that drains very well, and water the corms and plants more frequently than you would those planted in beds. The soil in the pot will dry out more quickly, especially in the sun and heat.

Gladiolus Companion Plants

Several flowers, and even a foliage plant, make good companions for gladiolus. They enjoy similar growing conditions, so putting them together makes sense. They’ll provide a varied and stunning display of different colors, heights, and textures:

• Coneflowers
• Cosmos
• Dahlias
• Marigolds
• Salvia
• Zinnias
• Ornamental Grasses

Gladiolus are classic, gorgeous summer garden flowers and are pretty easy to grow. Even new gardeners get good success with glads. Follow these simple planting and care instructions to get an abundance of beautiful blooms from your gladiolus.

Frequently Asked Questions

Spring bulbs put on a fast, brilliant show and then essentially disappear – at least above ground. That floppy post-bloom foliage looks done, but it isn't. It's still feeding the bulb, pushing energy back down into storage for next spring. Rush the cleanup and that process gets cut short, which shows up as weaker flowering the following year.

None of it is difficult. Spring flowering bulbs are pretty forgiving, but a few common habits work against them in May without gardeners realizing it. Here's what's worth doing while the foliage is still up.

1. Don't Touch That Foliage!

The temptation to cut back or tie up the floppy post-bloom leaves is understandable – it looks messy, especially next to plants that are just hitting their stride. Early removal is one of the faster ways to weaken bulbs over time. Those leaves are still feeding the plant; cut them before they've yellowed and gone limp on their own, and that process stops short.

Wait at least six weeks after bloom before removing foliage – longer if you can. Daffodils need the full run; their leaves stay active well into June in many regions. Tulips can come out a bit earlier once things yellow. Braiding or banding the leaves causes less harm than cutting, though airflow takes a hit. The cleaner solution is planting late-emerging perennials nearby to hide the dieback without touching it.

2. Deadhead Spent Flowers

Seed production pulls energy – the same energy that would otherwise go back into bulb development. Getting the spent flower heads off before seeds set is a quick job, doesn't need to be precise, and nudges the plant's resources in the right direction. Daffodils and tulips both respond well to it. Alliums are worth considering separately – their dried seed heads are truly decorative and many gardeners leave them on purpose, which is a reasonable call.

Deadheading is also just tidier. A border full of collapsed tulip flowers and browning daffodil heads looks more neglected than the foliage does on its own. Removing the spent blooms while leaving the leaves gives the bed a cleaner look without interfering with the bulb's recovery. Garden snips from Home Depot make the job fast – no need for full-size pruners on soft post-bloom stems.

3. Feed While Foliage Is Still Green

Post-bloom bulbs are still feeding, and an application while the foliage is green can carry real benefits – especially in beds that haven't been amended in a few years. Low-nitrogen, high-potassium is the profile to look for. It supports bulb development rather than pushing more leafy growth the plant doesn't need at this stage.

Bone meal still works as a slow release of phosphorus and is easy to find. Bulb-specific granular fertilizer from Walmart is worth keeping on hand – it covers the post-bloom feed and doubles for fall planting. Either way, skip anything with high nitrogen in the analysis. That's the thing most likely to cause problems here.

4. Lift and Divide Overcrowded Clumps

Bulbs multiply underground, and a clump that's been in place for several years can get crowded enough that flowering drops off hard. May is the time to divide flower bulbs – foliage is dying back but still visible, which is the only reliable way to know where everything actually is. Once dormancy sets in, it's guesswork. Dig carefully, pull the offsets apart, and either get them back in the ground or into cool dry storage until fall.

Not every bulb needs dividing on the same schedule. Daffodils can go many years before crowding becomes a problem; tulips in heavier soils may need attention sooner. A clump that used to fill out with blooms and now sends up two or three is worth digging. Reset at proper spacing – two to three times the bulb's diameter – and flowering tends to recover within a season or two.

5. Mark What You Want to Move or Replace

May is the last reliable chance to see exactly what's planted where before everything goes dormant. A bulb that bloomed poorly, came up the wrong color, or landed in the wrong spot is easy to flag right now. A flag, a golf tee, a stick – anything visible works. By July that information is gone.

The same logic applies to gaps. A spot that looked sparse this spring is worth noting now so it can be filled at fall planting. Bulb displays tend to look thin not because of failure but because of under-planting – most look best when set closer together than the spacing on the bag suggests. Making notes in May, while everything is visible, turns fall planting from a guessing game into something more intentional. Weatherproof plant markers from Amazon keep those notes readable through summer.

Dahlias aren’t just eye candy. They’re super hungry plants with a knack for stealing the garden spotlight. Whether you’re new to the game or a seasoned pro, nailing the dahlia fertilizer routine is what lifts your patch from boring to marvelous. I’ve watched gardeners toss random mixes at them and wonder why they flop, so let’s dig into what could be going on. From soil prep to perfect timing, we’ve got the playbook to keep your dahlias thriving.

Every gardener faces their battles, and dahlias bring their share. Pests, tricky soils, and any other issue can be resolved with the correct dahlia care. With the right moves, you can skip the headaches and make your dahlias the envy of the block. Let’s get to work!

How Important Is It to Fertilize Dahlias?

Fertilizing dahlias isn’t just a nice thing to do. It’s mandatory if you want those bold blooms to steal the show. These plants crave nutrients, especially phosphorus for flowering and a touch of nitrogen for sturdy growth, but too much of the latter can backfire. Skip the feed, and you’re left with weak stems and puny flowers instead of the vibrant display you’re after. Think of it like fueling a racecar. Without the right fuel, it’s not crossing the finish line.

That said, it’s not about overloading them. Overdo it, and you’ll get lush leaves but few blooms, which misses the point entirely. In USDA zones like 8 or 9 where dahlias flourish, the need holds steady, but container growers need to stay sharp. Pots dry out quick, making consistent feeding key. A Burpee Organic Blood Meal from Amazon can give a gentle nitrogen nudge to start.

Do All Dahlias Have the Same Feeding Requirements?

Not every dahlia eats the same. You’ve got your dinnerplate types with massive blooms that guzzle more, and smaller bedding dahlias that a little less hungry. Each variety, whether it’s the flashy ‘Café au Lait’ or the classic ‘Bishop of Llandaff’, has its hunger level, shaped by size and bloom style.

Climate and setup shake things up too. In hotter USDA zones like 10, ease off nitrogen to avoid burning those tender tubers, while cooler zones like 3 might need a richer mix to compensate. Container dahlias? They’re thirstier for balanced feeds since nutrients leach out fast.

Organic Fertilizer Options for Dahlias

When it comes to the best fertilizer for dahlias, going organic can keep things natural and soil friendly. Compost is a champ, breaking down slow to feed those tubers steadily. Think kitchen scraps or yard waste worked into the bed. Bone meal’s another winner, packing phosphorus to amp up those blooms, and I’ve seen it transform gardens firsthand.

If you’re leaning chemical free, try fish emulsion for a liquid hit that dahlias love, especially in containers where quick uptake matters. Pair it with well-rotted manure for a balanced kick. A Down to Earth Organic Bone Meal like this one from Amazon is my pick for an easy, effective add-in. Just test your soil first, since overdoing it can still throw things off.

When and How to Fertilize Dahlias

Timing’s your best friend with dahlias. Kick off feeding when tubers sprout, about 4-6 weeks after planting, to build strong roots. Hit them again when buds form, typically late spring to early summer, and keep it going every 4-5 weeks through bloom season. June to September is the best time to feed.

How you apply it matters too. Sprinkle granular stuff like bone meal around the base, then water it in deep. For liquids, dilute and pour at the soil line, avoiding leaves to prevent scorch. Container dahlias need a half strength dose every couple weeks since pots drain fast.

Common Fertilizer Problems

Overfeeding

Overfeeding dahlias can turn your garden into a leafy mess, no kidding. Too much nitrogen, and you’ll get a jungle of stems with no flowers. I’ve seen it when folks overdo chemical mixes. In hot zones like USDA 9-11, this risk jumps, so go light.

Salt Buildup

Salt buildup’s another headache, especially in pots, messing with roots and drying soil out. Look for yellowing leaves or stunted growth as red flags to cut back. Even organic options can pile up if you don’t water well. Keep an eye out, and you’ll save your dahlias from a fertilizer flop.

Dahlia Fertilizer Aftercare

After feeding, don’t just walk away. Water those dahlias good to help nutrients sink in without stress. Mulch with straw or bark around the base to lock in moisture and shield roots, especially in the heat. I’ve seen it keep blooms steady.

Check plants weekly for signs. Lush growth is great, but wilting means tweak your feed. After dahlias have finished blooming, ease off to prep tubers for next year’s lift. Container dahlias need a water flush now and then to clear salt. Do it right, and your dahlias will keep dazzling.

Frequently Asked Questions

Whether you’ve ordered new dahlia tubers or have some stored from last year, it’s always a smart move to check they're viable before planting. In spring, it’s common to see dahlia tubers damaged from being jostled around in the postage system, garden center or your garage.

A single tuber will often become detached from the main cluster, or might see a dahlia tuber with a damaged neck. Some will still have everything they need to grow, giving you an extra Dahlia plant for free; others won’t be viable and will simply rot in the ground, wasting your time and garden space.

Luckily, there’s a really easy way to tell if a dahlia tuber is viable. These fabulous flowers aren’t cheap, so it’s a test that’s well worth doing before planting dahlia tubers.

How to Tell If A Dahlia Tuber is Viable

1. Check the Crown is Intact

If one tuber has become detached from the main cluster, look to see where it has snapped off. A viable dahlia tuber has three parts: the plump, fleshy body where its energy is stored; a knobbly bit at the top called the crown, and a narrower neck connecting the two.

Take a look at these tubers – they all have a knobbly crown at the top of their necks, and it’s from here that the stems will grow. Different varieties come in different shapes but they all should have a knobbly woody collar at the top of the neck.

So, if a tuber has snapped off below this all-important crown – and that’s pretty common as the necks are so narrow – it’s not viable. The rest of the cluster will be fine, but not this damaged, detached tuber.

You can see here how the crowns all attach to last year's stem. Planting this cluster as a whole will grow a large, strong plant, but each tuber has all it needs to survive on its own, too, if it becomes separated, as long as its all-important crown is intact.

2. Look For an Eye

If the crown is intact, the next stage is to look for an eye. This is the point on the crown that the stem grows from, and there may be more than one.

If your tuber is still dormant – and if you recently bought yours then it might still be, even in May, as they’re often kept in cold storage – then the eye will look like a little round bump, pimple or wart. It’ll be the same color as the crown, but slightly raised. If you can’t spot an eye, try brushing off old soil with a dry paintbrush then slowly rotate the crown under a desk light, and a shadow of the raised area may reveal one.

The eyes might be very obvious, too. Once a tuber wakes from dormancy, the eyes start to swell and some can turn a pink or green color. The eye may have even sprouted and you’ll see the shoot.

If your tuber has at least one eye, it’s good to plant.

3. Squeeze the Tuber

If there's no sign of an eye, give the body of the tuber a gentle squeeze. If it feels at all mushy or soft, throw it away.

4. Give it One Last Chance

If the tuber body is firm, you can give your tuber one last chance by laying it horizontally in a tray of just-moist potting mix and barely covering it with a little more soil. Keep this in a warm, light spot that’s at least 65°F and within two weeks you should see at least one stem growing from the crown. If you see nothing after three weeks, examine the tuber again. You should at least be able to spot some swelling eyes at this point so, if you can’t, consign your tuber to the compost heap.

What About Tubers That Are Still Attached?

Clusters of tubers still attached to last year’s stem(s) will have their crowns intact so are good to plant. Just give each tuber a gentle squeeze and, if you discover any that feel mushy, remove them from the cluster by cutting at the neck with hand pruners.

Don't worry if any tubers are shrivelled. As long as they're firm, they're likely fine.

What if the Tuber Neck is Just Damaged?

It’s common to see tubers still attached to the main cluster but with damaged necks. If it’s just the skin that’s broken, the damage is cosmetic and the tuber is likely fine. However, if the damage is deeper and the tuber is hanging by a few fibrous strands, it’s best to snip it off at the neck with hand pruners.

Summer bulbs add lush, exotic beauty to any garden. You can plant blooming beauties that put out brightly-colored flowers all summer long or foliage plants that wow with huge leaves. Either way, there are gorgeous tender bulbs that will enliven your landscape.

Some bulbs require quite a bit of work to put on a fabulous show that lasts all season, but luckily, there are other summer-blooming bulbs you can plant in spring that thrive on neglect. These plant-and-forget varieties are the ultimate winners for gardeners who are short on time – myself included.

I’m always looking for easier ways to grow and the most important aspect of creating a low-maintenance garden is choosing the right plants. That’s why I've compiled this list of easy-to-grow varieties for your garden. Plant one (or more) of these low-maintenance summer bulbs this month, then forget about them until the dazzling display begins!

1. Gladiolus

Gladiolus bulbs send out spire-like flowers in an array of eye-popping colors, making them a true statement plant for the summer garden. They are quite striking when planted at the back of a garden bed or along a fence or the side of your house.

Plant them in April in a sunny spot that’s protected from wind – you don’t want those tall, stately blooms blowing over and breaking during a summer storm. Add a nice layer of mulch on top of the soil around your gladiolus bulbs after planting to help hold in moisture.

Give them a drink, too, and water whenever plants look a bit peaked. Then wait for the blossoms to emerge and enjoy. Gladioli make wonderful cut flowers, so all you need to do is wait until it’s time to cut them, then fill a vase with these summer stunners.

Get gladiolus bulbs from Burpee in a mix of vibrant colors.

2. American Turk’s Cap Lily

American Turk’s cap lily (Lilium superbum) is a North American native plant that produces fiery orange blooms in mid to late summer. Reaching 4 to 8 feet (1.2-2.4 m) tall it is the largest native lily to the US and grows wild in a wide range of the country. This perennial bulb is hardy in USDA growing zones 5-8 and prefers a moist, but well-draining soil.

Turk’s cap lily is a perfect summer bulb for a rain garden or damp woodland landscape. Because it’s a native, this plant grows easily without any fuss as long as you plant it in the right location. If you have a shadier, wetter spot where you need to add some summer color then this is your plant!

Buy multiple Turk’s cap lilies from Native Wildflowers Nursery to fill in your native plant garden fast.

3. Canna Lily

The canna lily is a summer bulb garden staple. They have huge, dramatic leaves and blooms that come in a variety of bold hues. They are also easy to grow and care for. In April, once all chance of frost has passed, you can start planting canna lily bulbs outdoors in the ground or containers.

Space out canna lilies in your garden for maximum impact. These are truly statement plants and look best when a single one is allowed to shine on its own. Grow canna lilies in pots on a patio or in different corners of your garden.

Canna lilies like full sun and rich soil, so choose a bright location and amend your soil with compost before planting bulbs. After planting, add a layer of mulch to help retain moisture and give bulbs a strong start. Then wait for the gorgeous leaves to unfurl and the colorful spikes of flowers to bloom.

This variegated canna lily from Burpee is one of my favorite varieties because of its standout foliage.

4. Caladium

Caladium bulbs produce big, beautiful heart-shaped leaves in a wild variety of colors and variegations all summer long. They look absolutely stunning in the shade garden and add tropical flair to any landscape.

You can plant these unique summer bulbs outside in April as long as the air temperature is consistently above 60°F (15°C) and soil is at least 65°F (18°C). If it’s not warm enough in your region by April, don’t push it. Wait until soil warms or you risk damaging bulbs.

These low-maintenance plants make shade gardens come alive. They only need 4-6 hours of sunlight per day and actually require less watering and care when planted in shadier spots.

Give them a good drink at planting, cover with mulch, and keep soil moist until bulbs send out roots and new growth. Then rain and your regular garden watering routine are all caladiums need to thrive.

Get a 10-pack of a variety of caladium bulbs from Amazon today.

5. Agapanthus

Agapanthus, also known as Lily of the Nile, is a true blue flower that is sadly underused in American landscapes. It’s more popular in the UK, but you can grow it as an annual almost anywhere in the US.

This South African native is hardy in growing zones 7-11 and produces amazing blue flowers that butterflies and hummingbirds can’t resist. Another bonus: agapanthus is a deer-resistant plant, too. That’s a big win in my Midwest garden that’s full of furry visitors!

You can get bare root agapanthus tubers from Spring Hills Nurseries online or buy a gallon-sized plant from Fast Growing Trees for quicker blooms.