Woohoo! The very first dahlia blooms are freshly out and damn, aren’t they gorgeous? But July is not the time to sit back, relax and enjoy the display. July is a hard-working month for dahlia plants, and how well you look after them now determines how many flowers you get, how fabulously big they grow, and how long into fall the display lasts.

In July, dahlias are busy growing stems, leaves, flowers and buds, which uses up a heap of energy and moisture. They’re also dealing with long, hot days – and while all that sunshine fuels growth, high temperatures stress the plants. There’s no telling how long the current heatwave will last for, making these vital July gardening jobs to keep dahlias happy and healthy all the more important.

Why? Because while your dahlia plants will probably go ahead and flower for the next month or so, even with minimal care, they’ll quickly give up blooming once the first flush is over. Nurture your plants in July, however, and they’ll continue flowering into fall with far bigger, more beautiful blooms. Thanks to this summer’s heat, many dahlia varieties are already flowering with deeper, more intense colors this year. So, take care of these vital gardening jobs in July and this could be your most spectacular dahlia display, ever. Here's what to do with dahlias in July…

1. Water Deeply

When it comes to what dahlias need in July, moisture tops the list. While it’s important not to overwater newly planted tubers as they can easily rot, now your plants are established they need plenty of moisture. In the peak of summer, if there’s no rainfall, you need to be watering dahlias growing in the ground around three times a week. Container-grown dahlias are likely to need watering daily or, in extreme temperatures, twice a day.

Water the soil at the base of the plants, rather than the plants themselves, to prevent fungal issues. Opt to irrigate first thing in the morning and you'll reduce evaporation so more of that precious moisture reaches the roots. If your mulch is thinning by midsummer, you may also want to consider re-mulching with an organic mulch such as Miracle-Gro All Natural Mulch, available from Walmart. It'll lock that moisture in the ground and keep those tubers a little cooler too.

2. Fertilize Regularly

As soon as you spot flowerbuds, or if your plant is already actively flowering, you should be feeding dahlias once every 7-14 days. A soluble feed gives plants an instant boost, which makes it far easier to control the nutrient supply. Because here’s the thing that most home-growers miss: if a flowering plant is fertilized in a heatwave, it's going to need more moisture to facilitate the extra growth the feed fuels. If you provide that moisture, great. But if you don’t, the plant is put under a lot of unnecessary stress.

In the current heatwave conditions, with plenty of states already under a hosepipe ban, it’s vital to consider this before fertilizing. It’s best to reduce fertilizing in extreme temperatures, and using a soluble feed makes it easy to adjust feeding levels week by week. And remember, while you should never under-dilute plant food, you can absolutely over-dilute it to provide a more gentle nutrient boost.

To fuel abundant flowers at this time of the year, you need a feed that’s high in potassium. Use all-round flower food such as Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Bloom Booster, available from Lowe's, or a specialized dahlia feed such as TPS Plant Food Dahlia Fertilizer, available from Amazon. If you’re growing tomatoes and already have a liquid tomato fertilizer such as Espoma Organic Tomato!, also available from Amazon, you can use that, too – it’s also high in potassium and will do a similar job.

3. Deadhead Fading Flowers

Snipping off fading blooms will keep your dahlia focused on growing more flowers rather than producing seed. Deadheading regularly, every few days, is an important part of July dahlia care and makes a huge difference to how many blooms a plant will produce. So, if you're wondering how to get more dahlia flowers, don't skip this task: the quicker you remove those spent blooms once the petals start to fade, the more energy you'll redirect.

Use a pair of bypass pruning shears such as these from Lowe's to deadhead dahlias and, if you haven’t sharpened yours in a while, get a razor-edge on those blades with a sharpener such as this $7 tool from Amazon. Trace the stem of the faded flower down and cut just above the next bud, pair of leaves or main stem. This is far easier for the plant to deal with than cutting higher and leaving a bare stem end that could rot.

The trickiest part of deadheading dahlias is knowing what’s a fully spent bloom and what’s a new bud, because they can both look very similar – and you seriously don't want to remove all the flowers yet to come! It's easy to tell the difference once you know how, though.

New buds are round, tight, feel firm when you squeeze them and may have a glimmer of color at their centre, like this:

Spent flowers are more pointed and cone-shaped, feel slightly squishy when you squeeze them, may have brown tones, and look like this:

4. Make Quick Earwig Traps

Midsummer is prime earwig season and these critters are well known for chewing holes in dahlia foliage and ruining blooms. You probably won’t spot the earwigs themselves as they’re nocturnal, but the tell-tale signs are uneven holes or ragged edges on leaves, and shredded buds. You might also see dark earwig poop, known as frass, on the leaves.

If you don't mind this damage or it's minimal, don't worry about it – earwigs are useful bugs to have in your garden ecosystem as they eat aphids, mites and juvenile snails. If you want to curtail the damage, however, it’s simple to catch the culprits with homemade earwig traps.

Stuff dampened straw or dried grass into small plant pots or plastic cups and upend these on bamboo canes pushed into the ground around your dahlias (watch out for the tubers, though). Earwigs will crawl into these cozy, dark spaces after feeding so, in the morning, it’s a simple task to rehome them, and you don't have to move them far. Though they have wings, earwigs rarely travel more than 100 feet.

5. Prune Dahlias For Huge Blooms

If you fancy growing a few fabulously big dinnerplate dahlias, then there’s an extra job to be done – but it’s by no means an essential part of summer dahlia care. Disbudding involves removing sidebuds on a stem to force the plant into putting all its energy into growing the central flower. And the results can be incredible! Disbudding dahlias also brings longer stems for cut flowers.

You’ll get far fewer blooms overall if you disbud but, if you want to grow a few showstopper cut flowers for a special occasion, or just try something different with your dahlias this year, it’s worth it. You don’t need to disbud all the stems on an established plant, so why not try it with one or two stems and leave the rest?

Disbudding is a quick and easy job. Look at a dahlia stem and you’ll typically see it has a larger central bud and some side buds either side. Simply pinch or snap off all the side buds – do this in early morning when the plant is fully hydrated and the rigid stems snap far more easily.

Give your dahlia the care it needs in July, and it will reward you by flowering abundantly all through summer and fall, till the first frost. And that’s a heck of a lot of beautiful blooms for your efforts!

Next up in the gardening priority list is to prep your peonies for bigger flowers next year. This July gardening job is quick and easy to do but is another that has a huge impact on the quality of blooms you'll enjoy.

Calla lilies provide a touch of the tropics to summer gardens. Though gardeners in far southern climates can grow these beautiful flowers year-round, most of us have to accept that they'll only grow as annuals.

The other option is to dig up plants each fall and overwinter them, then replant them each spring as you would any other summer garden bulbs. Alternatively, you can grow calla lilies in containers indoors.

I'll walk you through the basics of caring for calla lilies indoors and out, no matter where you live.

Quick Calla Lily Facts

Planting Calla Lilies

Calla lily plants make a beautiful addition to the ornamental landscape. Though the graceful white calla lily flowers are the most common, available cultivars come in a wide range of colors.

Below, we will explore the basic needs of this stunning perennial in greater detail, as well as information for planting them in the garden and indoors in containers.

Soil Requirements

Calla lilies should be planted into well-amended beds with good drainage. Since they are quite adaptable, the rhizomes will grow well under a wide range of soil conditions, including those that consist of sand or clay. Their ideal garden soil should be neutral or slightly acidic with a pH of 5.6 to 6.5. You can test the pH with soil test kits, like this one on Amazon.

To successfully grow callas indoors, the plants can be placed into containers filled with a high-quality indoor potting mix, like this one from Miracle-Gro.

Light Requirements

Calla lilies grow best where they can receive part sun or full sun throughout the day. Ample light is essential to the production of flowers.

Still, gardeners living in areas that are especially warm or receive intense sunlight may want to consider planting calla lilies in beds that are shaded throughout the hottest parts of the afternoon.

Watering

Caring for calla lilies includes paying special attention to soil moisture. Indoor plants, as well as those grown directly in the garden, appreciate consistent moisture throughout the season in addition to adequate humidity.

In regions that receive regular rainfall, watering calla lilies in the garden is not often required once plants are established. However, the plants can benefit from drip irrigation, like this Rain Bird Watering Kit from Amazon, or soaker hoses in regions that are especially dry or prone to prolonged periods of drought.

Temperature & Humidity

Calla lily plants grow best where conditions are warm with temperatures of at least 70°F (21°C) during the day. Humidity in the environment also plays a key role in maintaining adequate levels of moisture.

Calla lily flowers can tolerate high temperatures in most gardens, provided the humidity conditions are ideal. Extreme heat can be detrimental to the plant, however, in regions that are dry or arid.

Fertilizing

You will need to fertilize calla lilies to keep them looking their best. Well-balanced fertilizers can be used any time before the plants start to flower. Both granulated and liquid feeds are good options, depending upon one's specific needs. This organic bloom-boosting fertilizer from Espoma is a good option.

As with most perennials, make certain to avoid using fertilizer after the plant has finished blooming.

Pruning

Calla lily flowers can be removed as they begin to fade from the plant. Deadheading calla lily flowers prevents the production of seeds and encourages repeat blooming.

Each spent flower stem should be removed carefully all the way back to the base of the plant. Dead or yellowing foliage can also be pruned in this manner, which helps to maintain a healthy and tidy appearance in garden beds.

Calla Lily Varieties

You can find a wide array of calla lily bulbs from Home Depot and your local garden center to grow in your garden. These are some of the most common varieties of calla lilies to look for:

• 'Crystal Clear' Calla Lily
• 'Garnet Glow' Calla Lily
• 'Odessa' Calla Lily
• 'Morning Sun' Calla Lily
• 'Picasso' Calla Lily

Propagation

Though it is possible to grow calla lily plants from seed, most gardeners prefer to divide those that have already established themselves in the garden. This can occur every three to five years and will result in flowers that are identical to the parent plant.

You should divide calla lilies in the fall while each plant is dormant. After carefully lifting rhizomes from the soil the roots can be cut apart. New divisions should have at least one healthy, viable growing eye.

Common Problems

While care for these plants is relatively simple, there are some common problems with calla lilies that gardeners need to be aware of.

Notable among these are diseases that directly affect the plants' rhizomes and foliage. Root rot, powdery mildew, and various kinds of wilt may be the direct result of excess moisture.

Several types of pests may also target calla lily plants. Slugs and Japanese beetles are the most problematic.

Container Care

Calla lilies are common houseplants because they do well growing in containers. But they will need occasional repotting to perform their best. If you grow calla lilies in pots, they will outgrow their containers and require repotting once every one or two years. Do this in the fall when the plants are dormant.

During repotting, you can also divide mature plants and replant them into new containers. Or you can just move your overgrown plant into a larger container that's about 1 inch (2.5 cm) larger in diameter than the old pot.

Frequently Asked Questions

Calla Lily Care Must-Haves

By June, dahlias are shifting from quiet tubers into serious growth, with plenty of foliage above ground and the first flower buds not far behind. This is the stretch when the plant builds the structure it will carry all season, from strong stems to a full canopy, while the root system continues filling out beneath the soil. A few well-timed jobs now can shape how the rest of the summer goes.

Skip this work and the plants will still grow – just messier, and with fewer blooms to show for it. Most of the dahlia care needed at this point is light work: a pinch here, a feed there, and nothing that eats up a whole afternoon. What matters most in June is timing, since a job done a couple of weeks late can cost you flowers further down the line.

These tasks don't all need to be done on the same afternoon. Spread them across a couple of weekends, work with whatever the weather's handing you, and the plants take care of the rest.

1. Get the Supports In Before the Plants Need Them

Taller dahlia types can reach 4 to 5 feet (1.2–1.5m), and the stems, for all their thickness, snap surprisingly easily once a flower head catches the wind. Driving in a stake now, while the plant is still compact, keeps the roots undisturbed. Leave it until later, once the tuber has spread underground, and there’s a real chance of spearing straight through it.

Single-stem types do fine with a sturdy bamboo cane or metal rod; bushier plants prefer a ring or cage to lean into. Heavy-duty plant stakes from Amazon can hold up for a full season without bowing under the weight.

Whatever support you use, tie stems loosely with something soft and leave room for them to thicken – dahlia stems put on real girth as summer wears on, and twine cinched tight in June will be cutting in by August.

June Dahlia Essentials

2. Pinch out the Growing Tip

Once a plant reaches around 12 to 16 inches (30–40cm) and has three or four sets of leaves, snapping out the very top growing point encourages it to branch rather than shoot straight up. That means more side stems – and more stems usually means more flowers, even if each bloom is a little smaller.

It feels wrong to lop off healthy growth just as things are taking off. Do it anyway. A clean thumbnail is enough for soft growth, though a small pair of snips gives a tidier cut on thicker stems – Fiskars Micro Tip pruning snips stay sharp and earn their keep well beyond dahlia season. Think of it as redirecting the plant’s energy, not setting it back.

3. Water Deep, Not Often

Newly sprouted dahlias don’t ask for much, and too much water around a tuber that hasn’t filled out its roots can rot it outright. Once the foliage is up and the plant is clearly motoring, though, its thirst climbs fast. A deep soak two or three times a week, letting the top inch (2.5cm) of soil dry out between, beats a daily splash that never reaches the roots.

Water dahlias at the base rather than over the leaves to keep the foliage dry and cut back on the mildew that dahlias are prone to in muggy weather. A soaker hose on a timer takes the guesswork out, and this kind of soaker hose kit from Amazon snakes between plants and runs slowly enough to properly sink in. Morning is the better slot where possible – leaves then have all day to dry off whatever does land on them.

4. Switch the Feed Toward Flowers

Early on, a balanced feed, or even a slightly nitrogen-leaning one, helps build leaves and stems. As June rolls on and buds begin to form, the priority shifts. Lean too hard on nitrogen now, and you end up with a lush green plant that’s stingy with flowers – all leaf, not much show.

When fertilizing dahlias, what you want is a high-potash feed, the same kind sold for tomatoes. Something like this Epsoma Organic Tomato Fertilizer, diluted and applied every couple of weeks once buds appear, keeps things ticking along. Go easy, though – dahlias aren’t especially hungry, and overfeeding does more harm than skipping a week.

5. Stay Ahead of Slugs and Earwigs

Few things love a young dahlia shoot more than slugs. Soft new growth can be shredded overnight, sometimes right back to the stem, and a plant can lose a whole flush of leaves before anyone clocks the damage. Earwigs tend to turn up a little later, working on petals once the flowers open – irritating, if rarely fatal.

Heading out after dark with a flashlight and picking them off by hand is grim, but it works, and it can be weirdly satisfying. Beer traps sunk to soil level draw slugs in overnight, while an upturned pot stuffed with straw does the same for earwigs, which crawl in to hide by morning. This is a preventative habit, not a one-and-done job – stay on it through the soft-growth weeks, and the plants should outgrow the worst of it.

6. Mulch Around the Base

A layer of mulch around each plant does a lot of quiet work. It holds moisture in the soil through hot spells, keeps the roots cooler, and slows the weeds that would otherwise drink up water meant for your flowers. In a dry June, that can be the difference between watering every other day and watering twice a week.

Compost works well here, as do leaf mold or well-rotted bark. Spread it a couple of inches (5cm) thick, but pull it back an inch or so from the stems, since mulch packed tight against them traps damp and invites rot. One catch: slugs shelter under mulch, too, so in a wet year, it is a bit of a trade-off. Most seasons, though, the moisture you save comes out ahead.

The gladiolus plant is a striking summer bulb also known as sword lily or flag flower. Depending on the variety, they can grow quite tall and produce spikes of vibrant, colorful flowers in summer and into fall. Glads thrive in full sun, adding height, color, and drama to beds. In addition to providing you with stunning garden flowers, they’ll attract valuable pollinators.

Here, we’ll guide you through every aspect of growing gladiolus, from planting bulbs, or corms as they are technically called, to summer care, fall lifting, and winter care. Keep in mind that glads are toxic to pets.

Let's dig right in so you can have the vibrant garden of your dreams.

Quick Gladiolus Facts

Planting Gladiolus Flowers

Gladiolus grow from corms, which, while different from bulbs, are often referred to that way. Corms are food storage structures. Gladiolus bulbs are hardy in USDA zones 7 through 10, but you can plant them in colder zones if you’re willing to dig the corms up in fall and store them for winter.

You can plant gladiolus corms in spring once the risk of a frost has passed. Some gardeners stagger the planting to get more continuous flowering and color, as the gladiolus flower spikes bloom from the bottom up.

Soil

Soil for planting gladiolus corms should be rich and fertile, so mix in some compost if your soil is poor. The soil also must drain very well. Make amendments to lighten heavy soil if needed. Soggy areas will rot the corms. If your soil is particularly heavy, raised beds will create better drainage. Glads do best in slightly acidic soil, but neutral soil is fine.

Light

You’ll get the most stunning and abundant gladiolus flowers if you plant them in full sun. This means ensuring they get six to eight hours of direct sunlight. Too much shade affects flower number and size, but also leads to weak stems that flop over as they become top-heavy with flowers. A little afternoon shade is fine in hotter climates.

Step-by-step Planting Guide

Planting gladiolus corms is easy and straightforward. Follow these steps for the best results:

1. Choose healthy, firm, and plump corms to plant. Look for and avoid signs of mold and rot, soft spots, and any damage. Larger corms produce more flowers, so size matters.
2. Wait to plant glads until the soil is adequately warm. There should be no risk of frost, and the soil should be consistently 55 degrees Fahrenheit (13 Celsius). A simple soil thermometer like this one from Amazon will take the guesswork out of planting.
3. Prepare the planting area by digging into and loosening the soil to a depth of about 12 inches (30 cm). Make any necessary amendments now, such as adding compost.
4. Plant the corms in holes four to six inches (10 to 15 cm) deep with the pointy end facing up toward the sky. Space individual corms about six inches apart.
5. Water your newly planted corms.
6. Consider staggering planting times from spring into early summer. Plant every two weeks to get more continuous blooms. This is an especially useful strategy in regions with long growing seasons.

How to Care for Gladiolus

Once planted and growing, gladiolus plants are relatively low-maintenance. They need water, a little fertilizer, and some light pruning.

Watering Gladiolus

While the soil shouldn’t be allowed to get soggy, glads do grow and flower best when it remains consistently moist. Water gladiolus deeply once or twice a week if it isn’t raining and more during hot, dry spells. You can reduce watering once the flowers begin to fade.

Mulch

Two to three inches (5.0 to 7.5 cm) of mulch around your glads will help keep moisture in the soil on hot summer days. Applying mulch also minimizes weed growth. Just keep a little area around the stems bare to prevent rot.

Fertilizer

If you’ve mixed compost into the soil at planting time, you don’t need to fertilize often. Apply a balanced liquid fertilizer just once, when you see new growth emerging from the planted corms. Bonide liquid plant food from Amazon is a good balanced option.

Pruning

Light pruning helps keep glads looking tidy and directs energy into the corm for next year. Once the flowers have faded, trim off the spikes. Leave foliage in place until it starts to yellow. The leaves, while green, are actively gathering energy to store in the corm. Once the leaves yellow or die back, you can remove them.

Gladiolus Varieties

There are several different types and varieties of gladiolus, offering you a choice of colors, sizes, and applications. Some types are best for cutting, and some are good for borders. These are some of the most popular and readily available glad types:

• Grandiflora. Grandiflora is the most common type of gladiolus. They’re tall and produce big flowers on striking spikes, which make excellent cut flowers. You can find grandifloras in pink, red, orange, white, purple, and even multi-colored varieties.
• Dwarf Grandiflora. For a shorter glad, choose a dwarf variety. They stay about two feet tall and shorter. They’re great for containers and windy areas where taller stems would struggle to remain upright.
• Butterfly. Butterfly gladiolus varieties have unique flower shapes. They are ruffled and have contrasting colors in the throat. They have a more delicate appearance than the classic grandiflora flowers. Burpee offers a gorgeous mix of butterfly gladiolus bulbs.
• Hardy. For colder growing zones, hardy varieties are more likely to survive winter outdoors, although there are limits. One example is Gladiolus byzantinus, which can stay outdoors with a thick mulch blanket up to zones 5 and 4. And G. nanus is both hardy and dwarf. They don’t flower as abundantly as grandifloras. You can find Gladiolus nanus hardy dwarf mix from Eden Brothers Nursery.

Propagating Gladiolus

You can propagate gladiolus by removing and replanting corm offsets known as cormlets. Dig up corms in the fall at the end of the growing season and look for cormlets. Separate these from the main corm and store for the winter. Plant the cormlets in spring as you would larger corms. They won’t flower until their second year in the ground.

Winter Care of Gladiolus

If you grow gladiolus in the warmer part of this flower’s hardiness range, you can leave the corms in the ground over winter. They should survive and regrow next spring. Apply a thick layer of mulch over the corms in the colder regions (zones 7 and 8) to provide some protection from cold temperatures.

In colder regions outside the hardiness range, you’ll need to lift and store your corms over winter to enjoy them again the following year. Dig up corms after the foliage has yellowed in fall. Dig them carefully to avoid damaging the corms. Wounds make the corms vulnerable to rot over winter.

Brush off excess dirt and remove any remaining plant material. Then, let your lifted corms dry in a cool, dry, and ventilated area for a couple of weeks. Store the dry corms mesh bags or paper bags in a cool, dry location for the winter. Ideal storage temperatures are between 35 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit (2 to 10 Celsius). Check the corms periodically for signs of moisture or rot.

Common Gladiolus Problems

Glads are pretty dependable plants, but there are a few issues you might face:

• Corm Rot. Corms should be firm, not soft, which can indicate the start of corm rot. Above-ground signs of rotting include yellow foliage and weak growth. Make sure the soil where you plant drains very well and avoid overwatering.
• Floppy Stems. Weak growth, especially in tall varieties, makes gladiolus prone to flopping. Issues that cause this include too much shade, too much fertilizer, and strong winds. Even if they are healthy, tall gladiolus might need stakes to stay upright.
• Thrips. Mostly too small to see, thrips leave evidence of their presence, including brown spots or tips on leaves and streaked or distorted flowers.

Container Care

You can grow gladiolus in containers as long as you choose a pot with enough depth and weight to prevent it from tipping over. Dwarf types are the best suited to container growing. Pots should be at least 12 inches (30 cm) deep.

Use a good quality potting mix that drains very well, and water the corms and plants more frequently than you would those planted in beds. The soil in the pot will dry out more quickly, especially in the sun and heat.

Gladiolus Companion Plants

Several flowers, and even a foliage plant, make good companions for gladiolus. They enjoy similar growing conditions, so putting them together makes sense. They’ll provide a varied and stunning display of different colors, heights, and textures:

• Coneflowers
• Cosmos
• Dahlias
• Marigolds
• Salvia
• Zinnias
• Ornamental Grasses

Gladiolus are classic, gorgeous summer garden flowers and are pretty easy to grow. Even new gardeners get good success with glads. Follow these simple planting and care instructions to get an abundance of beautiful blooms from your gladiolus.

Frequently Asked Questions

Spring bulbs put on a fast, brilliant show and then essentially disappear – at least above ground. That floppy post-bloom foliage looks done, but it isn't. It's still feeding the bulb, pushing energy back down into storage for next spring. Rush the cleanup and that process gets cut short, which shows up as weaker flowering the following year.

None of it is difficult. Spring flowering bulbs are pretty forgiving, but a few common habits work against them in May without gardeners realizing it. Here's what's worth doing while the foliage is still up.

1. Don't Touch That Foliage!

The temptation to cut back or tie up the floppy post-bloom leaves is understandable – it looks messy, especially next to plants that are just hitting their stride. Early removal is one of the faster ways to weaken bulbs over time. Those leaves are still feeding the plant; cut them before they've yellowed and gone limp on their own, and that process stops short.

Wait at least six weeks after bloom before removing foliage – longer if you can. Daffodils need the full run; their leaves stay active well into June in many regions. Tulips can come out a bit earlier once things yellow. Braiding or banding the leaves causes less harm than cutting, though airflow takes a hit. The cleaner solution is planting late-emerging perennials nearby to hide the dieback without touching it.

2. Deadhead Spent Flowers

Seed production pulls energy – the same energy that would otherwise go back into bulb development. Getting the spent flower heads off before seeds set is a quick job, doesn't need to be precise, and nudges the plant's resources in the right direction. Daffodils and tulips both respond well to it. Alliums are worth considering separately – their dried seed heads are truly decorative and many gardeners leave them on purpose, which is a reasonable call.

Deadheading is also just tidier. A border full of collapsed tulip flowers and browning daffodil heads looks more neglected than the foliage does on its own. Removing the spent blooms while leaving the leaves gives the bed a cleaner look without interfering with the bulb's recovery. Garden snips from Home Depot make the job fast – no need for full-size pruners on soft post-bloom stems.

3. Feed While Foliage Is Still Green

Post-bloom bulbs are still feeding, and an application while the foliage is green can carry real benefits – especially in beds that haven't been amended in a few years. Low-nitrogen, high-potassium is the profile to look for. It supports bulb development rather than pushing more leafy growth the plant doesn't need at this stage.

Bone meal still works as a slow release of phosphorus and is easy to find. Bulb-specific granular fertilizer from Walmart is worth keeping on hand – it covers the post-bloom feed and doubles for fall planting. Either way, skip anything with high nitrogen in the analysis. That's the thing most likely to cause problems here.

4. Lift and Divide Overcrowded Clumps

Bulbs multiply underground, and a clump that's been in place for several years can get crowded enough that flowering drops off hard. May is the time to divide flower bulbs – foliage is dying back but still visible, which is the only reliable way to know where everything actually is. Once dormancy sets in, it's guesswork. Dig carefully, pull the offsets apart, and either get them back in the ground or into cool dry storage until fall.

Not every bulb needs dividing on the same schedule. Daffodils can go many years before crowding becomes a problem; tulips in heavier soils may need attention sooner. A clump that used to fill out with blooms and now sends up two or three is worth digging. Reset at proper spacing – two to three times the bulb's diameter – and flowering tends to recover within a season or two.

5. Mark What You Want to Move or Replace

May is the last reliable chance to see exactly what's planted where before everything goes dormant. A bulb that bloomed poorly, came up the wrong color, or landed in the wrong spot is easy to flag right now. A flag, a golf tee, a stick – anything visible works. By July that information is gone.

The same logic applies to gaps. A spot that looked sparse this spring is worth noting now so it can be filled at fall planting. Bulb displays tend to look thin not because of failure but because of under-planting – most look best when set closer together than the spacing on the bag suggests. Making notes in May, while everything is visible, turns fall planting from a guessing game into something more intentional. Weatherproof plant markers from Amazon keep those notes readable through summer.

Dahlias aren’t just eye candy. They’re super hungry plants with a knack for stealing the garden spotlight. Whether you’re new to the game or a seasoned pro, nailing the dahlia fertilizer routine is what lifts your patch from boring to marvelous. I’ve watched gardeners toss random mixes at them and wonder why they flop, so let’s dig into what could be going on. From soil prep to perfect timing, we’ve got the playbook to keep your dahlias thriving.

Every gardener faces their battles, and dahlias bring their share. Pests, tricky soils, and any other issue can be resolved with the correct dahlia care. With the right moves, you can skip the headaches and make your dahlias the envy of the block. Let’s get to work!

How Important Is It to Fertilize Dahlias?

Fertilizing dahlias isn’t just a nice thing to do. It’s mandatory if you want those bold blooms to steal the show. These plants crave nutrients, especially phosphorus for flowering and a touch of nitrogen for sturdy growth, but too much of the latter can backfire. Skip the feed, and you’re left with weak stems and puny flowers instead of the vibrant display you’re after. Think of it like fueling a racecar. Without the right fuel, it’s not crossing the finish line.

That said, it’s not about overloading them. Overdo it, and you’ll get lush leaves but few blooms, which misses the point entirely. In USDA zones like 8 or 9 where dahlias flourish, the need holds steady, but container growers need to stay sharp. Pots dry out quick, making consistent feeding key. A Burpee Organic Blood Meal from Amazon can give a gentle nitrogen nudge to start.

Do All Dahlias Have the Same Feeding Requirements?

Not every dahlia eats the same. You’ve got your dinnerplate types with massive blooms that guzzle more, and smaller bedding dahlias that a little less hungry. Each variety, whether it’s the flashy ‘Café au Lait’ or the classic ‘Bishop of Llandaff’, has its hunger level, shaped by size and bloom style.

Climate and setup shake things up too. In hotter USDA zones like 10, ease off nitrogen to avoid burning those tender tubers, while cooler zones like 3 might need a richer mix to compensate. Container dahlias? They’re thirstier for balanced feeds since nutrients leach out fast.

Organic Fertilizer Options for Dahlias

When it comes to the best fertilizer for dahlias, going organic can keep things natural and soil friendly. Compost is a champ, breaking down slow to feed those tubers steadily. Think kitchen scraps or yard waste worked into the bed. Bone meal’s another winner, packing phosphorus to amp up those blooms, and I’ve seen it transform gardens firsthand.

If you’re leaning chemical free, try fish emulsion for a liquid hit that dahlias love, especially in containers where quick uptake matters. Pair it with well-rotted manure for a balanced kick. A Down to Earth Organic Bone Meal like this one from Amazon is my pick for an easy, effective add-in. Just test your soil first, since overdoing it can still throw things off.

When and How to Fertilize Dahlias

Timing’s your best friend with dahlias. Kick off feeding when tubers sprout, about 4-6 weeks after planting, to build strong roots. Hit them again when buds form, typically late spring to early summer, and keep it going every 4-5 weeks through bloom season. June to September is the best time to feed.

How you apply it matters too. Sprinkle granular stuff like bone meal around the base, then water it in deep. For liquids, dilute and pour at the soil line, avoiding leaves to prevent scorch. Container dahlias need a half strength dose every couple weeks since pots drain fast.

Common Fertilizer Problems

Overfeeding

Overfeeding dahlias can turn your garden into a leafy mess, no kidding. Too much nitrogen, and you’ll get a jungle of stems with no flowers. I’ve seen it when folks overdo chemical mixes. In hot zones like USDA 9-11, this risk jumps, so go light.

Salt Buildup

Salt buildup’s another headache, especially in pots, messing with roots and drying soil out. Look for yellowing leaves or stunted growth as red flags to cut back. Even organic options can pile up if you don’t water well. Keep an eye out, and you’ll save your dahlias from a fertilizer flop.

Dahlia Fertilizer Aftercare

After feeding, don’t just walk away. Water those dahlias good to help nutrients sink in without stress. Mulch with straw or bark around the base to lock in moisture and shield roots, especially in the heat. I’ve seen it keep blooms steady.

Check plants weekly for signs. Lush growth is great, but wilting means tweak your feed. After dahlias have finished blooming, ease off to prep tubers for next year’s lift. Container dahlias need a water flush now and then to clear salt. Do it right, and your dahlias will keep dazzling.

Frequently Asked Questions

Whether you’ve ordered new dahlia tubers or have some stored from last year, it’s always a smart move to check they're viable before planting. In spring, it’s common to see dahlia tubers damaged from being jostled around in the postage system, garden center or your garage.

A single tuber will often become detached from the main cluster, or might see a dahlia tuber with a damaged neck. Some will still have everything they need to grow, giving you an extra Dahlia plant for free; others won’t be viable and will simply rot in the ground, wasting your time and garden space.

Luckily, there’s a really easy way to tell if a dahlia tuber is viable. These fabulous flowers aren’t cheap, so it’s a test that’s well worth doing before planting dahlia tubers.

How to Tell If A Dahlia Tuber is Viable

1. Check the Crown is Intact

If one tuber has become detached from the main cluster, look to see where it has snapped off. A viable dahlia tuber has three parts: the plump, fleshy body where its energy is stored; a knobbly bit at the top called the crown, and a narrower neck connecting the two.

Take a look at these tubers – they all have a knobbly crown at the top of their necks, and it’s from here that the stems will grow. Different varieties come in different shapes but they all should have a knobbly woody collar at the top of the neck.

So, if a tuber has snapped off below this all-important crown – and that’s pretty common as the necks are so narrow – it’s not viable. The rest of the cluster will be fine, but not this damaged, detached tuber.

You can see here how the crowns all attach to last year's stem. Planting this cluster as a whole will grow a large, strong plant, but each tuber has all it needs to survive on its own, too, if it becomes separated, as long as its all-important crown is intact.

2. Look For an Eye

If the crown is intact, the next stage is to look for an eye. This is the point on the crown that the stem grows from, and there may be more than one.

If your tuber is still dormant – and if you recently bought yours then it might still be, even in May, as they’re often kept in cold storage – then the eye will look like a little round bump, pimple or wart. It’ll be the same color as the crown, but slightly raised. If you can’t spot an eye, try brushing off old soil with a dry paintbrush then slowly rotate the crown under a desk light, and a shadow of the raised area may reveal one.

The eyes might be very obvious, too. Once a tuber wakes from dormancy, the eyes start to swell and some can turn a pink or green color. The eye may have even sprouted and you’ll see the shoot.

If your tuber has at least one eye, it’s good to plant.

3. Squeeze the Tuber

If there's no sign of an eye, give the body of the tuber a gentle squeeze. If it feels at all mushy or soft, throw it away.

4. Give it One Last Chance

If the tuber body is firm, you can give your tuber one last chance by laying it horizontally in a tray of just-moist potting mix and barely covering it with a little more soil. Keep this in a warm, light spot that’s at least 65°F and within two weeks you should see at least one stem growing from the crown. If you see nothing after three weeks, examine the tuber again. You should at least be able to spot some swelling eyes at this point so, if you can’t, consign your tuber to the compost heap.

What About Tubers That Are Still Attached?

Clusters of tubers still attached to last year’s stem(s) will have their crowns intact so are good to plant. Just give each tuber a gentle squeeze and, if you discover any that feel mushy, remove them from the cluster by cutting at the neck with hand pruners.

Don't worry if any tubers are shrivelled. As long as they're firm, they're likely fine.

What if the Tuber Neck is Just Damaged?

It’s common to see tubers still attached to the main cluster but with damaged necks. If it’s just the skin that’s broken, the damage is cosmetic and the tuber is likely fine. However, if the damage is deeper and the tuber is hanging by a few fibrous strands, it’s best to snip it off at the neck with hand pruners.

Summer bulbs add lush, exotic beauty to any garden. You can plant blooming beauties that put out brightly-colored flowers all summer long or foliage plants that wow with huge leaves. Either way, there are gorgeous tender bulbs that will enliven your landscape.

Some bulbs require quite a bit of work to put on a fabulous show that lasts all season, but luckily, there are other summer-blooming bulbs you can plant in spring that thrive on neglect. These plant-and-forget varieties are the ultimate winners for gardeners who are short on time – myself included.

I’m always looking for easier ways to grow and the most important aspect of creating a low-maintenance garden is choosing the right plants. That’s why I've compiled this list of easy-to-grow varieties for your garden. Plant one (or more) of these low-maintenance summer bulbs this month, then forget about them until the dazzling display begins!

1. Gladiolus

Gladiolus bulbs send out spire-like flowers in an array of eye-popping colors, making them a true statement plant for the summer garden. They are quite striking when planted at the back of a garden bed or along a fence or the side of your house.

Plant them in April in a sunny spot that’s protected from wind – you don’t want those tall, stately blooms blowing over and breaking during a summer storm. Add a nice layer of mulch on top of the soil around your gladiolus bulbs after planting to help hold in moisture.

Give them a drink, too, and water whenever plants look a bit peaked. Then wait for the blossoms to emerge and enjoy. Gladioli make wonderful cut flowers, so all you need to do is wait until it’s time to cut them, then fill a vase with these summer stunners.

Get gladiolus bulbs from Burpee in a mix of vibrant colors.

2. American Turk’s Cap Lily

American Turk’s cap lily (Lilium superbum) is a North American native plant that produces fiery orange blooms in mid to late summer. Reaching 4 to 8 feet (1.2-2.4 m) tall it is the largest native lily to the US and grows wild in a wide range of the country. This perennial bulb is hardy in USDA growing zones 5-8 and prefers a moist, but well-draining soil.

Turk’s cap lily is a perfect summer bulb for a rain garden or damp woodland landscape. Because it’s a native, this plant grows easily without any fuss as long as you plant it in the right location. If you have a shadier, wetter spot where you need to add some summer color then this is your plant!

Buy multiple Turk’s cap lilies from Native Wildflowers Nursery to fill in your native plant garden fast.

3. Canna Lily

The canna lily is a summer bulb garden staple. They have huge, dramatic leaves and blooms that come in a variety of bold hues. They are also easy to grow and care for. In April, once all chance of frost has passed, you can start planting canna lily bulbs outdoors in the ground or containers.

Space out canna lilies in your garden for maximum impact. These are truly statement plants and look best when a single one is allowed to shine on its own. Grow canna lilies in pots on a patio or in different corners of your garden.

Canna lilies like full sun and rich soil, so choose a bright location and amend your soil with compost before planting bulbs. After planting, add a layer of mulch to help retain moisture and give bulbs a strong start. Then wait for the gorgeous leaves to unfurl and the colorful spikes of flowers to bloom.

This variegated canna lily from Burpee is one of my favorite varieties because of its standout foliage.

4. Caladium

Caladium bulbs produce big, beautiful heart-shaped leaves in a wild variety of colors and variegations all summer long. They look absolutely stunning in the shade garden and add tropical flair to any landscape.

You can plant these unique summer bulbs outside in April as long as the air temperature is consistently above 60°F (15°C) and soil is at least 65°F (18°C). If it’s not warm enough in your region by April, don’t push it. Wait until soil warms or you risk damaging bulbs.

These low-maintenance plants make shade gardens come alive. They only need 4-6 hours of sunlight per day and actually require less watering and care when planted in shadier spots.

Give them a good drink at planting, cover with mulch, and keep soil moist until bulbs send out roots and new growth. Then rain and your regular garden watering routine are all caladiums need to thrive.

Get a 10-pack of a variety of caladium bulbs from Amazon today.

5. Agapanthus

Agapanthus, also known as Lily of the Nile, is a true blue flower that is sadly underused in American landscapes. It’s more popular in the UK, but you can grow it as an annual almost anywhere in the US.

This South African native is hardy in growing zones 7-11 and produces amazing blue flowers that butterflies and hummingbirds can’t resist. Another bonus: agapanthus is a deer-resistant plant, too. That’s a big win in my Midwest garden that’s full of furry visitors!

You can get bare root agapanthus tubers from Spring Hills Nurseries online or buy a gallon-sized plant from Fast Growing Trees for quicker blooms.

We dahlia enthusiasts are a special kind of passionate. We don’t just want to grow flowers, we are looking to curate something unique, visually stunning, and as long lasting as possible. From the tight, geometric perfection of pompons to the wild, spiky cactus florals that bring to mind a colorful fever dream, from vibrant pinks to sultry mahoganies, dahlias are some of the treasures of our late-summer garden.

The catch is that you’ll often be at the mercy of the calendar. You’ll wait for the soil to warm, plant tubers in May, then spend all of August staring at green leaves, desperately hoping for a bloom before the first frost hits. It’s a waiting game that often ends just as the party gets started. But what if you could cheat the clock? What if you could have those head-turning blooms in July instead of September? Growing dahlias in most regions usually involves a standard cycle of digging and storing tubers each year. But by taking control of the timeline now with these pro secrets, you can effectively buy yourself a few weeks of better, stronger, bigger blooms.

These secrets for dahlia care in spring seem a little strange, maybe even subversive, but they will ensure you can move the bloom timeline forward by up to four weeks, help you get more flower heads, and lead to bigger, sturdier flowers. Read on, as I share the insider secrets that can give your tubers a wake-up call you won’t forget. Use these secrets for spring dahlia care to jumpstart dormancy and double your flower count.

3 Secrets for Dahlia Success

Many dahlia growers play a waiting game in spring. They pull out the stored tubers, put them in the ground or in the pots, cross their fingers, and wait for late summer flowers, some of which might not even bloom until September. If you’ve ever been envious of neighbors who seem to get dinner plate-sized dahlias mid-summer, just know that their results aren’t accidental. They discovered the secret to earlier, bigger, healthier flowers, and it involves taking a few extra steps this month to get your dahlias ready to go and grow.

The dahlia’s metabolic rate is tied strictly to temperature and moisture availability. By artificially manipulating these factors in April, you bypass the slow start phase that usually happens in the cold, damp ground of early May. Our three insider secrets for the perfect dahlia plant care in spring might seem a little odd or excessive, but we promise that these simple tasks are effective and worth every second of your time, even if you don’t live in USDA zones 8 and above (where dahlias are hardy).

These three dahlia secrets for April can make the difference between a nice dahlia showing and a neighborhood spectacular. Of course, the right soil temperature can help when planting. If you need clear, easy-to-understand temperature readings, the Luster Leaf Rapitest Digital Soil Thermometer, available from Amazon, takes the guesswork out of expensive tuber planting. But using these three secrets, you will be giving your dahlia tubers a headstart now so they hit their stride when they are in the garden. Here’s what you need to know for a stunning season of gorgeous blooms.

Secret 1: Giving Your Tubers a Bath

Storing dahlia tubers requires a balancing act. You need to keep tubers in a happy middle place between too much moisture (which can cause rot) and too dry (which can mean they are no longer viable). Many growers err on the side of dry because rot is permanent. But ideally, as well as keeping tubers cool (40-45°F/4.4-7.2°C), dahlia tubers need to be just barely moist.

If you wake up your tubers this year only to find they look shriveled, don’t panic. This can be fixed with a soak. Even tubers that look healthy and firm can benefit from rehydration before going back in the soil. Rehydrating isn't just about plumping the tuber. It’s also about activating the cambium layer beneath the skin. This signals to the eyes (the small bumps where growth begins) that the dormant season is over. By rehydrating before planting, you jumpstart sprouting by a few weeks.

Think of it as setting an alarm clock a little earlier, getting the tubers up and ready early for spring. To rehydrate your tubers, simply submerge them in a bucket or tub of room temperature water for 60-90 minutes. Add a weak solution of seaweed extract or a liquid kelp fertilizer to the water. Seaweed contains natural hormones (cytokinins) that further encourage the eyes to wake up. You can buy Maxicrop Liquid Seaweed with Kelp Extract from Walmart. Don’t leave tubers in water for several hours or overnight, as this can lead to rot, and only soak dry, healthy tubers.

Secret 2: Hotboxing for Early Eyes

Once your tubers are hydrated, don’t plant them outside straightaway. The ground in April is likely cold and wet, which can lead to the very tuber rot you’ve just tried to avoid. Instead, this second little trick helps you to “pre-sprout” your tubers and tricks your dahlias into thinking it’s already June. It helps break dormancy and stimulate new growth early, giving you a head start of literal weeks of seeing summer flowers.

This method is called hotboxing, and the idea is to use warmth and a little moisture to simulate the ideal growing conditions for a tuber coming out of winter dormancy, tricking the tuber into getting started early. Dahlias love warm days and cool nights. They need soil temperatures of 60-70°F (15.5-21.1C) to grow actively. By hotboxing indoors in April, you are providing that sweet spot weeks ahead of schedule.

To hotbox your tubers, use a shallow crate or tray. Place your tubers in the container and surround with a slightly damp coco coir or peat-free potting mix. The eyes of the dahlia are located on the crown, where the tuber meets the old stem. Make sure this part is slightly exposed or lightly covered, so you can monitor growth. Place on a seedling heat mat to stimulate roots. Buy Vivosun Durable Waterproof Seedling Heat Mats from Amazon to maintain that steady temperature your tubers crave.

Check your tubers every few days. The eyes should swell, change color, and eventually sprout. Once you have a sprout about an inch long, you’ve successfully woken the plant. You are now officially ahead of the game. Just take care to avoid letting the tubers get too wet. The soil or other material should be just barely damp, never soggy. Also, ensure your tubers have good airflow to avoid rot or mold.

Secret 3: Beheading Dahlias

This can feel wrong at first, but trust us when we tell you it will result in fuller growth and, ultimately, more flowers. Most gardeners know about pinching plants back. When you pinch stems, you encourage side shoots. This means fuller growth, but also more stems for more blooms. What feels so wrong is that it requires snipping back the first sprouts. Your instinct will be to let that early growth go, but pinching now means more growth and more flowers later, so go for it! It’s one of the most important ways to care for dahlias in spring, after following the other two steps.

Most dahlia tubers send up one dominant apical sprout. If left, the plant will focus all its energy on this one stem, resulting in a tall, lanky plant that needs heavy staking and produces only a few flowers at the top. By pinching this central tip, you disrupt apical dominance. When it is 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) long, snip back to just above a leaf node, removing the top 2-3 inches (5-8cm) with a clean pair of snips or shears. Team favorite Fiskars’ Micro-Tip Pruning Snips, available from Amazon, can help you make clean, precise cuts without damaging the rest of the stem.

Removing the central growing tip redirects energy into side shoots. The plant releases a burst of auxins (growth hormones) to the lower leaf nodes, forcing the plant to create 4-6 lateral branches instead of one. Always sanitize your shears with rubbing alcohol between plants. You can buy Swan Rubbing Alcohol from Walmart to dip your snips in to ensure a healthy, virus-free process. The result? A bushy, self-supporting shrub that produces 3-4 times as many flowers!

Go the Extra Mile in Spring

Since you’ve taken the time to wake up and prepare your tubers early, it’s worth putting some effort into getting the soil ready. The ideal soil for dahlias is a rich, sandy loam with a pH of 6.5-7. Use a soil meter like the Yamron 5-in-1 Soil Meter from Amazon to save yourself some work later, and make small soil pH adjustments as you see fit, using sulfur or lime to raise or lower pH accordingly.

The ideal soil for dahlias is rich and fertile. It drains well and stays moist but doesn’t get soggy. Before planting, do a quick squeeze test on your garden soil. Pick up a handful and squeeze. If it stays in a tight, muddy ball, it’s too wet. If it crumbles, you’re golden. To improve drainage, incorporate well-rotted compost. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers early in the season, as this can lead to weak, watery stems and fewer flowers. Instead, look for a bloom booster or a balanced organic compost. Don’t rule out raised beds or containers if you have ongoing problem soils.

Since you are planting tubers earlier, ensure the soil is warm enough to receive them. Soil temperature should be 60°F (15.5C), so use your soil thermometer to ensure you get this right. If a late April frost is predicted after you've moved your pre-sprouted tubers outside, you must protect those tender sprouts. A single frost will turn your hard-earned sprouts to black mush. Cover the soil with black plastic or landscape fabric a week before planting to absorb solar heat.

Once tubers are in the ground, keep frost blankets or old 5-gallon buckets nearby to pop over the plants if the temperature dips. You can buy plant covers to help give an extra layer of protection if there are unexpected late frosts. Buy Homeya Plant Protection Covers with Zips from Wayfair to pop over beheaded dahlias during a surprise cold snap. Knowing what to do with dahlias in spring is that easy – and ensures you get more blooms and bigger flowers, and much sooner.

Shop Dahlia Spring Essentials

Knowing these dahlia secrets should get you off to the races much faster, but you need a few care essentials to help you on your way, these curated items can give you the edge with your spring preparations. Here are our top picks for a successful dahlia wakeup call:

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Tulips are a classic garden plant. They have a reputation for being straightforward yet stunning every spring. All you have to do is plant the bulb, watch it bloom, and move on to more exciting summer annuals and perennials.

But if you spend any time looking past the standard Darwin hybrid tulips, you start to realize how much range the genus actually has. There are fringed edges, streaked petals, and tulips that look like peonies or even ice cream scoops.

The unique types of tulips below cover a range of different looks that are distinctive without being difficult to source. All are available online and many are well-stocked at local nurseries, but often overlooked for the classic pink and red blooms that dot most spring gardens. Add a little variety to your garden with one of these spring stunners instead.

1. ‘La Belle Époque’

This one looks like it belongs in a painting. The warm, layered coloring that ranges from soft peach, apricot, to dusty rose can change depending on the light. 'La Belle Époque' is a double late-blooming type, so the full and ruffled flowers hold up longer than single-flowered tulips tend to.

Cut flower growers have latched onto this cultivar. The color palette photographs well against almost any background and the stems last long in the vase. Plant in full sun with good drainage. La Belle Époque sulks in wet soil more than most types of tulips.

Get La Belle Époque bulbs from White Flower Farm, which is a great resource for other unique tulip varieties.

2. ‘Black Parrot’

Parrot tulips are already a category apart – their slashed, twisted petals look almost artificial in person. ‘Black Parrot’ takes it even further with coloring that reads darker than most “black” flowers can manage. The deep burgundy-purple blooms actually look black in certain light.

The blooms nod slightly as they open and the petals fan out irregularly, giving the whole tulip an unruly quality that rows don’t suit well. So plant this cultivar in drifts, if you can. It’s a late season bloomer that extends the show long past the time when earlier varieties have already finished.

You can find Black Parrot bulbs online from Walmart.

3. ‘Ice Cream’

The name says it all. The outer petals of the ‘Ice Cream’ tulip form a deep pink cup and from the center rises a dense cluster of white petaloids that spill slightly over the edge. Once you see the vanilla scoop in the pink bowl, that’s all you can picture. It’s a peony-flowered tulip, so the blooms are substantial and last longer than you’d expect.

It blooms in mid-to-late season and keeps going even when most of the spring color has wrapped up. Provide full sun and good drainage. The double flower form means rain and wind can weigh down flower heads, so a sheltered spot helps with drooping.

Get Ice Cream tulip bulbs from Amazon for quick and easy planting.

4. Lady Tulip

The Lady tulip (Tulipa clusiana) is one that makes many people ask if it’s even a tulip. Flowers are narrow and elegant. They have white petals with a deep rose-red stripe on the outside. They open into a star-shaped bloom when the sun hits them and close back up on cool or overcast days. They’re a bit like crocuses in that way.

Being a species tulip changes the math on longevity. It’s smaller overall but longer-lived, naturalizing and returning over several years without being dug and replanted. It also tolerates warmer climates better than Darwin Hybrids, making it a real option in zones where tulips usually peter out after the first year.

'Tinka Candlestick' Lady tulips, which are available from Walmart, add a touch of delicate pink to the spring garden.

5. ‘Akebono’

‘Akebono’ is a unique Darwin type tulip – a group known for big flowers, a mid-spring bloom time, and tall stems. The color is a warm golden yellow that deepens toward the base. It has a clean flower form with nothing fussy about it.

It tends to show up while the rest of the garden is still looking sparse, which is part of what makes it useful – early color in a bare bed matters. There’s a reasonable chance Akebono will come back the following year, if conditions cooperate.

Shop beautiful Akebono tulip bulbs online at Walmart.

6. ‘Angélique’

'Angélique' has been in continuous production since the 1950s and the color is a big part of why. Its soft pink petals are densely layered with a slightly darker flush toward the center, this flower looks like a rose or a peony more than a tulip at first glance. It holds up well in a vase, too.

The color pairs with almost anything else blooming in late spring. A bag of Angélique bulbs like these from Amazon is the straightforward way to guarantee the layered pink combination rather than hoping a mixed bag comes close.

7. ‘Flaming Flag’

‘Flaming Flag’ is a Triumph tulip – the most widely planted class in the world – but looks nothing like the standard types in that group. They have a white base color with bold violet feathering and flame patterns that shift slightly flower to flower.

The effect is striking in a way that feels old-fashioned without being fussy, close in spirit to the “broken” tulips prized during the Dutch Tulip Mania in the 1600s. It is a mid-season bloomer, holds up well in wind, and the markings are worth a closer look – they’re ideal for growing tulips in containers for that reason.

Get pretty purple Flaming Flag tulips from Walmart.

8. ‘Exotic Emperor’

‘Exotic Emperor’ is white with heavy green feathering and streaking across the petals. It’s not the kind of green that looks like something went wrong, but a deliberate, almost variegated pattern that fades as the bloom matures. By the time it fully opens the green has mostly receded, leaving a large, clean white flower.

An early bloomer on sturdy stems, this Emperor tulip pairs well with late daffodils and early alliums. A good bulb planter, like this from Amazon, makes getting a full display in the ground considerably less tedious come fall.

Get your Exotic Emperor tulip bulbs for fall planting from White Flower Farm.

Lasagna, that most delicious of layered dishes, isn’t just for the kitchen. In gardening parlance, it describes a simple, practical, and frankly genius way to plant bulbs. If you’ve had a beautiful pot of flowers bloom for two weeks only to quickly fade and turn into a bucket of green stems, this lily lasagna bulb planting project is for you. It’s the ultimate way for lily lovers to maximize every square inch of a patio or balcony.

By layering your bulbs strategically, you create a succession of superstar blooms, each equally dramatic and lovely. As one variety fades, the next is pushing through to take its place in the spotlight. Lasagna planting is a layering strategy that mimics shifts in seasons. A typical container lasagna recipe involves three distinct layers. The deepest layer consists of the latest-blooming flowers, those heavy-hitters that need the most time to develop. The second layer is for the mid-season stars, and the top layer is reserved for the early birds that kick off the show early doors.

Because this extended flowering bonanza is contained in a single vessel, it’s a dream if you have a small yard, or you're a little time-starved. Plant once, water regularly, and enjoy a changing display for months. Lasagna planting suits most flowering bulbs, but March is the time to plant bulbs for lasagnas to provide key razzle-dazzle over summer. This special recipe for layering lily bulbs gives a coordinated explosion of color and fragrance. Whatever your ability level, time restrictions, or space challenges, the lily lasagna is foolproof. Here’s how to layer lily bulbs for a continuous display of gorgeous and heavenly scented blooms.

Why Try Lasagna Planting Lily Bulbs?

When planting bulbs, many gardeners simply dig them into beds to a depth of a few inches – sometimes mixing types, sometimes using one type only. This traditional method usually results in a spectacular but short-lived pop-up style of color. Once the bloom is over, the show is done. Layered or lasagna planting changes the game by allowing you to enjoy subsequent blooms throughout the entire season.

This continuous blooming is the primary benefit, but lasagna planting is also about spatial efficiency. For those of us dealing with smaller urban gardens or balconies, we don't have the luxury of resting a flower bed. We need every pot to work hard. This lily plant based lasagne allows you to pack three times the flower power into the same footprint. It also acts as a built-in support system; as the taller, later-blooming Oriental lily varieties grow, their sturdy stems help support the earlier varieties.

For the lazy gardener, the benefits are even better. You are basically front-loading all your labor. Instead of having to remember to plant every few weeks (by succession planting), you can do it all in one afternoon this month. You just need to ensure your container is large enough to handle the root mass. A pot that is too small can lead to bulb competition, where the plants struggle for nutrients. Aim for a pot at least 14-16 inches (35-40 cm) deep to give everyone enough breathing room.

Source Your Summer Lilies

You don't need loads of tools for this project – just the biggest spare container you can find with a good drainage hole, some potting mix, and possibly a sieve for making sure all your container soil is nicely sifted. However, make sure you pick the right combination of early-summer, mid-summer and late-summer bulbs for this lily lasagne container project.

There's plenty of choice when selecting summer-flowering bulbs for this exquisite triple-layer of lily perfection, which is guaranteed to turn heads all summer long. But if you're stuck for lily inspiration to suit container life, maybe these summer stunners can tempt you?

Perfect Lily Lasagne Bulb Trio

Easy Lily Lasagne Recipe

While lilies are often planted in the fall, planting them in early spring (specifically March) is a fantastic way to ensure they bloom with vigor in the coming months. The secret to a successful lily lasagna isn't just about the bulbs, though – it’s also about the internal ingredients. So give some thought to your base, drainage, and soil blend.

Lilies hate wet feet. If their bulbs sit in soggy soil, they will rot before they ever see the sun. If you’re using a container, make sure it has substantial drainage holes at the bottom. You also need a lightweight potting mix that drains well. Look for something lightweight that contains perlite or vermiculite, or add some. Sta-Green Perlite from Lowe’s helps to boost drainage and foster healthy roots.

For an extra boost when growing lilies in containers, I like to mix in a handful of bone meal or a specific bulb starter fertilizer into the soil before I start layering. You can buy Back to the Roots Organic Bone Meal from Amazon. This gives the roots immediate access to the phosphorus they need for strong development.

Bottom Lasagna Layer: Oriental Lilies

These are the divas of the lily world – the late summer bloomers that strive to save the best for last. Many varieties flower in August and will be the final act of your showy lily lasagna. When selecting your bottom layer, look for Oriental lily varieties like the pink-speckled ‘Rubrum’ or the iconic white ‘Casablanca’ lily.

Start by filling the bottom 4 inches (10 cm) of your pot with your prepared soil. Place your Oriental bulbs pointy-side up, 6-8 inches (15 to 20 cm) below the surface of the soil or container. Because these will grow the tallest, they need the most anchor space. Space them 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) apart. Cover with 3 inches (8 cm) of soil, firming down gently to remove large air pockets.

Middle Layer: Oriental-Trumpet Hybrids

Your next layer goes right over the top of the soil you just packed. These are the Orienpets, hybrids designed for strength and size. They usually bloom in mid-summer, bridging the gap between the early and late varieties. As an alternative to the suggested recipe above, try ‘Golden Splendor’ or majestic ‘Pink Perfection.’

When placing this second layer, try to stagger the bulbs. Don't plant bulbs directly on top of the ones below. Instead, place in the gaps between the lower bulbs. This ensures the stems have a clear path to the surface without knocking into their neighbors. Cover this layer with another 2-3 inches (5-8 cm) of soil.Cover them with another two inches of soil.

Top Lasagna Layer: Asiatic Lilies

Asiatic lilies are the sprinters, and represent your early-summer bloomers. They grow fast and bloom early (late June to July). Because they are generally shorter, they won't overshadow later blooms once their time is up. Varieties like black-purple ‘Night Flyer’ or burgundy-and-orange ‘Forever Susan’ add incredible drama. Also look for double-petalled varieties like ‘Spring Pink’ and orange ‘Cocktail Twins.’

These bulbs sit closest to the surface, about 3-4 inches (8-10 cm) down. Again, stagger them so they aren't sitting directly over the middle-layer bulbs. Once they are placed, fill the rest of the pot with soil, leaving about an inch of headroom at the top of the pot so water doesn't overflow when you're hydrating your lilies.

Caring for Your Lily Lasagne

Once your bulbs are tucked in, the real magic happens underground. But to ensure a successful summer, keep these tips in mind. Most lilies are sun-seekers, so aim for a spot with full sun (at least 6 hours) for the best results. Lilies love cool feet and a hot head. If you can, place your pot where the container itself is slightly shaded by other plants or a low wall, while the lily stems grow upward into the bright sunshine.

Watering is key. Keep the soil consistently moist, but never waterlogged. A deep watering once a week is usually sufficient, though in the heat of July, you may need to check daily. To prevent root rot, I swear by pot risers like Bosmere Pot Toes from Amazon. These tiny lifts keep your container off the ground, ensuring that water flows freely out of the drainage holes and doesn't pool at the bottom of the lasagna.

When growing lilies in containers, you’ll also need a balanced liquid fertilizer every two weeks through the spring to keep these heavy feeders happy and healthy. Once flower buds appear, switch to a bloom-booster that is higher in phosphorus and potassium to encourage massive, waxy blooms. Fertilizers designed for tomato plants are a great option. You can buy Lilly Miller Bulb & Bloom from Amazon for a slow-release feed that ensures vibrant colors.

Deadheading is vital. As soon as a flower fades, snip it off. As well as keeping the pot looking tidy, this prevents the plant wasting energy on seed production and keeps the energy in the bulb for next year’s show. Just be sure to leave the green stem and leaves intact until they turn yellow in the fall. Use precision snips like Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon to make clean, sharp cuts at the base of the flower without damaging buds from the next layer up.

Finally, a word on squirrels, which find lily bulbs delicious. If you have local diggers, use some chicken wire or hardware cloth, like Garden Craft Chicken Wire from Lowe’s. Place over the top of the soil immediately after planting. You can mulch right over it, and the lily stems will grow through the gaps while keeping the critters out. Once the plants are a few inches tall, the bulbs are usually safe!

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

If you grew up with your nose buried deep in fairytales, then you'll undoubtedly have heard of a fairy ring . A biological phenomenon rooted deep in folklore and magic, it's usually a circular formation of mushrooms (or toadstools, if you want to get all Enid Blyton about it). What if, though, you could create one out of flowers?

Oh yes, it's surprisingly easy to transform all of your spring flowering bulbs into a portal to whimsy. Tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths popping up in a perfect ring? Edges softening into surrounding grass or woodland plants? It'll look as if fairies have danced through your garden overnight!

It's a fun twist on the usual plants for fairy gardens, and is guaranteed to make even the most familiar space feel enchanted. And, so long as you plant according to your unique USDA Planting Zone, it's easy enough for even the very greenest of beginners to tackle...

How to Create a Fairy Ring with Spring Bulbs

Fun little fact about me: I’ve always been drawn to garden features that feel spontaneous rather than staged (possibly due to my outrageous laziness as much as my desire to work with nature), and fairy rings are the ultimate example of this.

Still, planting bulbs in a ring may seem simple, but creating a natural, flowing shape that lasts year after year? That requires a touch of planning and an understanding of how bulbs behave in soil, light, and moisture.

The best rings are those that appear effortless, even though careful thought has gone into selecting the right plants and the ideal layout. With that in mind, then...

1. Choose the Right Bulbs

The trick here is to opt for a mix of heights and bloom times, which is why tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, and crocuses work beautifully together.

Consider color palettes that complement the rest of your garden, and try to think about staggering your bloom times (much like you might with a bulb lasagna).

2. Plan and Prep Accordingly

It's not just about deciding and determining the diameter and spacing of your fairy ring (although, yes, a natural look is achieved by avoiding perfect symmetry, so take care to stagger the bulbs slightly and allow gaps for plants to soften the edges). it's also about prepping the soil, too.

As ever, well-drained soil rich in organic matter is key. Take care, then, to amend the soil around your intended fairy ring with either homemade or store-bought compost; something like Espoma Organic Bulb-Tone is ideal.

3. Plant and Maintain

Plant each bulb in your fairy ring at the recommended depth, pointed side up. Layer early-blooming bulbs in the inner circle and taller, later bloomers toward the outside for a cascading effect.

Take care to water bulbs after planting, feed lightly when they bloom, and leave the foliage until it yellows naturally to allow energy storage for next year. Over time, your bulbs will multiply and the ring’s edges will soften, enhancing the whimsical, fairytale effect.

Watching a fairy ring evolve over time is one of the great joys of gardening, as it's not just a display; it becomes a living feature, changing every spring, offering new surprises, and creating a little corner of enchantment in your yard.

With patience, planning, and a bit of magic, your fairy ring can transform even the simplest yard into a storybook scene every spring. And, if you don't have space in your garden, don't despair; you can still invite some magic into your life by making a a DIY Fairy Terrarium.

We wish you the very best of luck. And we hope, if you're lucky, your garden will become a hotspot for fairies, sprites, and pixies before too long...

Daffodils are some of the earliest flowers to appear in the spring. Even if they're poking their heads up through the snow, they're a sure sign that warmer weather is coming.

Once planted, daffodils will more or less take care of themselves, naturalizing and bringing back their cheerful show every year. In this guide, we'll cover how to plant daffodil bulbs at the right time and in the right place. We'll also touch on propagation, problems, and what exactly you're supposed to do after your flowers have faded. So read on to learn how to grow one of the most cheerful types of bulbs out there.

Daffodil Quick Facts

Daffodil Planting

When it comes to daffodils, timing is everything. Plant your daffodil bulbs in the autumn, once the soil has cooled but before the first hard frost sets in. This allows the bulbs to establish a strong root system before the winter freeze. Even if you miss the window, you can often plant as late as December, as long as the ground is still workable. I personally have planted daffodils after the ground was partially frozen. It wasn't fun, but it did work.

If you plant daffodil bulbs late in the fall, they will probably grow but may have stunted flowers or no flowers at all in the spring. Be patient and give them a season to get settled – they should bloom well the following year.

Daffodil Soil Requirements

When you're choosing a site, prioritize drainage above all else. Daffodils are extremely hardy, but wet feet can be a death sentence for them. If your garden has heavy clay, try amending the soil with compost or grit. Or, to be safer, opt for a container or raised bed instead.

Daffodil Light Requirements

Daffodils love full sun! That being said, they're perfect candidates for spots under deciduous trees and shrubs. That's because they come up so early in the spring, they get all the sunlight they need before the trees leaf out. Once the leaves appear, their shade will help keep the dormant bulbs cool.

While they prefer full sun, they'll still perform well in part shade.

Step-by-Step Planting Guide

1. Choose a spot in full sun or part shade, with well-draining soil.
2. Loosen the soil to a depth of about 12 inches (30 cm). If your soil is heavy, mix in compost or grit.
3. Dig a hole 3 times as deep as the bulb is tall. Space bulbs 3-6 inches (7.5-15 cm) apart.
4. Place the bulb pointy end up, flat/rooted end down.
5. Cover the bulb and lightly firm the soil with your hand.
6. Water thoroughly.
7. Add 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) of mulch.
8. Wait until spring!

How to Care for Daffodils

Daffodils require very little active care. Once they come up in spring, all you really have to do is enjoy them.

Watering Daffodils

Outdoor daffodils don't necessarily need watering at all. They're susceptible to root rot, so overwatering is more dangerous than underwatering. As long as you're getting somewhat regular rain during their growth period in spring, they should be fine on their own.

If your daffodils are up and the weather is unseasonably dry, it's a good idea to water them occasionally. Just make sure the soil doesn't get waterlogged.

Fertilizing Daffodils

As the flowers begin to fade, fertilize daffodils with a light application of a low-nitrogen, high-potassium fertilizer – this will help the bulbs recharge for the following year. This Bulb Tone fertilizer from Amazon is a perfect choice. Avoid fertilizers high in nitrogen – they'll encourage extra foliage growth and leave the bulb with less energy for next year's blooms.

Post-Bloom Daffodil Care

The most critical part of daffodil care actually happens after the flowers are gone. You should deadhead spent daffodil blooms as they fade, to keep the plant from wasting energy on seed production.

It's vital, however, to leave the foliage until it withers and dies back naturally – a process that usually takes about six weeks. After daffodil flowers are gone, these leaves keep photosynthesizing and storing up energy for the next season. Cut back the leaves too early, and you're sabotaging next year's flowers.

The Perils of Daffodil Braiding

You may have seen daffodil leaves braided or tied up in knots – some gardeners do this to give their gardens a "tidier" look. Don't do this! It seriously reduces the surface area of leaves that can absorb and photosynthesize sunlight, and it can lead to stunted or missing flowers, also known as daffodil blindness.

If you want to hide fading daffodil foliage, intersperse your bulbs with perennials that will fill in throughout the spring and camouflage the wilting leaves.

It's okay to prune daffodil foliage once it's turned brown and brittle. I like to give it a gentle tug – if it comes away from the ground easily, it's ready to go. If there's some resistance, I leave it to fade some more.

Daffodil Dormancy

After the foliage has faded completely, daffodils enter their dormant period. The bulbs will stay underground, unseen, until the following spring. While dormant, daffodils are remarkably drought tolerant, so resist the urge to water! They actually prefer to stay dry during the heat of the summer.

Daffodil Care Calendar

Daffodil Varieties

When most people think "daffodil," they picture the standard yellow trumpet. If they have a wild imagination, they might see a white and orange variety. In fact, the Narcissus genus is very diverse – some varieties of daffodil are tiny, some are multi-flowered, and some have so many petals that they look more like dahlias.

Here are some of the most popular daffodil varieties:

• Classic Trumpet Daffodils: These are the quintessential spring flowers with a central trumpet. ‘Dutch Master’ is the gold standard for large, sturdy yellow blooms that reliably return year after year.
• Large-Cupped Daffodils: These are popular because they're incredibly hardy and come in the widest range of colors. Cultivars like ‘Ice Follies’ start with a yellow cup that matures to a soft white, creating a beautiful two-toned effect.
• Double Bloom & Frilly Daffodils: For a high-drama look, Double Daffodils produce extra layers of petals in the center, often resembling peonies or gardenias. The popular cultivar ‘Sun Catchers' boasts mountains of deep golden petals.

• Miniature & Dwarf Daffodils: Standing only 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm) tall, mini daffodils are perfect for rock gardens and front-of-border displays. The classic ‘Tete-a-Tete’ is a garden favorite for its reliable, multi-flowered stems.
• Poet's Daffodils (Narcissus poeticus): Also known as Pheasant's Eye, these are some of the most fragrant and late-blooming varieties. They feature icy-white petals and a tiny, flat yellow cup with a distinct red rim.
• Jonquil Daffodils: These are prized for their intense fragrance and their ability to produce multiple small flowers on a single stem. ‘Quail’ is a popular golden-yellow variety that's exceptionally heat-tolerant.

How to Propagate Daffodils

After 3-5 years of happy blooming, you may notice your daffodils producing more foliage and fewer flowers. This is because the original bulbs have produced so many offsets that they've gotten crowded, and it's a sign that you should divide them.

To propagate the daffodils by division, wait until the foliage has started to yellow. Then carefully lift the bulbs with a garden fork. There should be a cluster of bulbs, including some large bulbs with smaller offsets attached. With your hands, gently pull these offsets away from the parent bulb. Plant them right away at the same depth in a new location. Replant the parent bulbs in the original spot.

Daffodil Winter Care

In USDA Zones 3-8, daffodils are perfectly happy staying in the ground all winter. In fact they require a chilling period of several weeks to trigger flowering. All they need is a few inches of mulch to provide extra protection against temperature swings and soil heaving, where the ground expands and contracts and actually pushes the bulbs toward the surface.

If you live in zone 9 or higher, outdoor daffodils won't be able to get that essential chilling period. In this case, you'll either have to treat them as annuals or force them. To force daffodils in warm climates, wait until the foliage has died back, then dig up the bulbs. Store them in your refrigerator for 10-12 weeks to simulate winter, then replant them outdoors in late autumn.

Just make sure to keep the bulbs away from fruit – fruit emits ethylene, which will kill the flower bulb!

Common Daffodil Problems

Daffodils are famously pest-resistant, mostly because they contain a toxic alkaloid called lycorine. This makes them taste terrible for deer, rabbits, and even squirrels, who seem born to dig up and steal flower bulbs.

Daffodils aren't invincible, though. Here are some common daffodil problems:

• Narcissus Bulb Fly: This insect's larvae burrow into the bulb, causing the plant to produce only a few spindly leaves or none at all.
• Daffodil Blindness: This is the term given to daffodils producing healthy foliage but no flowers. This can happen because the bulbs were planted too shallowly, the foliage was cut back too early, or the bulbs are too crowded. Luckily, all three can be fixed easily!
• Root Rot: This happens when the soil becomes waterlogged. It results in stunted, withered, or yellow leaves.
• Narcissus Yellow Stripe Virus: Stripes of white or yellow on daffodil leaves spread and become necrotic, eventually killing the entire leaf. There's no cure, and affected plants should be removed and destroyed.

How to Grow Daffodils in Containers

Daffodils are very well suited to container life, both indoors and out. If you're growing daffodils in containers, the most important thing is to make sure the container has drainage holes, and the potting mix is well-draining. Since pots are more exposed to the elements than the ground, you may need to wrap the container in burlap or move it to a sheltered spot like an unheated garage during the harshest part of winter.

How to Grow Daffodils Indoors

It's possible to grow daffodils indoors, but they do need a chilling period in order to bloom. To achieve this, you may have to force the bulbs.

Forcing Daffodils

Forcing daffodils indoors is easy, as long as you give them the necessary chilling period. It's possible to buy pre-chilled daffodil bulbs, like these from Amazon. These can be planted straightaway and will bloom in a few weeks.

If you have regular, unchilled bulbs, you'll have to start the process about four months ahead of your desired bloom time, then follow these steps:

1. Fill a pot with well-draining potting mix to about 2 inches (5 cm) from the rim.
2. Crowd several daffodil bulbs in the pot, so they take up most of the surface of the soil.
3. Add more soil, so that just the pointed tips of the bulbs are exposed to the air.
4. Water thoroughly.
5. Place the pot somewhere cold – either a refrigerator or outdoors (in cold areas), sunk into a hole and covered in mulch.
6. Wait for 10-12 weeks.
7. Move the pot to a cool room (50-55 F or 10-13 C) for two weeks.
8. Begin watering again.
9. Move the pot to a warmer room and watch for growth.

If you don't want to deal with chilling requirements, you can always force paperwhite narcissus instead. Paperwhites are a sub-species of daffodil that, unlike their cousins, don't need a cold period to bloom.

To force paperwhites, simply nestle the bulbs in a shallow bowl of pebbles and water. In a few weeks, they'll produce fragrant white flowers.

Daffodil Companion Plants

Since you have to leave its foliage to die back naturally, good daffodil companion plants are those that grow to fill in the space in mid to late spring to act as camouflage.

Some good choices are hostas, daylilies, peonies, and bleeding hearts, all of which have a similar growth habit that takes over the spotlight just as the daffodils retire.

Lasagna Planting

If you want nonstop color all spring long, you should try lasagna bulb planting.

In the fall, dig a hole (or start with a container) at least 3 times as deep as your daffodil bulbs, and place a couple daffodil bulbs at the bottom. Cover them with soil, then place a layer of tulip bulbs. Cover those with soil, and add a final layer of muscari or crocus bulbs. Fill the hole in the rest of the way.

Come spring, each layer of flowers will bloom in succession, giving you long lasting color in the same spot.

Daffodil Frequently Asked Questions

Daffodil Quiz

Daffodil Care Essentials

• Want to force daffodils but don't have time to chill? Buy these pre-chilled daffodil bulbs, available on Amazon.
• Keep your garden blooming for months with this special 100 day mix from Burpee. Made up of different varieties of daffodil, it guarantees daffodil blooms for 100 straight days.
• Give your daffodils a boost every spring with Bulb Tone fertilizer from Amazon.

When winter bulbs like snowdrops and aconite bloom, they feel (not to get too poetic about it) like tiny miracles. Tiny flowers pushing through cold soil while the rest of the garden still sleeps? Pure magic. But once those early blooms fade, many gardeners are left wondering: now what?

Well, we have good news: caring for winter-flowering bulbs after they finish doing their thing is wonderfully simple. In fact, the biggest mistake is doing too much (which is exactly the level of affection we can afford when it's cold outside).

Best of all? With the right aftercare, these early stars will return year after year, often growing stronger and more abundant with time. So, let's get to it...

What to Do With Winter Bulbs After They Bloom

It doesn't really matter which US Planting Zone you're based in; if you want to keep your snowdrops, winter aconite, and other winter bulbs coming back year after year, the steps are the same.

1. Let the Leaves Die Back Naturally

After snowdrops or winter aconite finish flowering, it can be tempting to tidy things up. Resist that urge! Those slender green leaves might look like they're doing nothing, but they are busy photosynthesizing and turning sunlight into stored energy inside the bulb.

That energy? That's what fuels next winter’s blooms. If you cut the foliage back too early, you’re essentially cutting off next year’s flowers. So, please, leave winter bulb foliage in place until it yellows and withers naturally. This may take several weeks, but it’s the single most important step for long-term success.

2. Deadheading Is Optional (But Not Essential)

Unlike larger spring bulbs, winter bulbs don’t expend significant energy on seed production. And, while you can remove spent heads, it’s not strictly necessary, as allowing them to remain often helps them naturalize and spread.

If you prefer a tidier look, feel free to snip off faded blooms: just be careful not to damage the leaves. When in doubt, focus on protecting the foliage and don’t worry too much about the flowers once they’ve finished.

3. Leave Winter Bulbs in the Ground

Snowdrops, winter aconite, and other winter bulbs tend to be happiest when they are left undisturbed (much like this writer after a long week at the keyboard). These bulbs naturalize best when they’re allowed to settle in and form clumps over time.

Avoid lifting and storing them dry – especially winter aconite, which strongly dislikes being moved. If clumps become crowded after several years, they can be divided while still in leaf and replanted immediately. This method, often called planting “in the green,” gives snowdrops the best chance of success.

4. Skip Heavy Fertilizing

Winter bulbs are beloved for a number of reasons, but particularly because they are so very low-maintenance by nature. In most gardens, they don’t need synthetic fertilizer at all.

If your soil is poor, a light top-dressing of compost or leaf mold in fall can help improve soil structure and drainage. Otherwise, healthy soil and intact foliage will provide everything these bulbs need.

Overfeeding can actually do more harm than good, encouraging leafy growth at the expense of flowers.

5. Plan for Bigger Winter Displays

Late winter and early spring are great times to assess how your winter bulbs are performing. Are they spreading well, for example? Do you want larger drifts next year? What's the vibe?

Snowdrops and aconite look best when planted generously and allowed to naturalize. Adding more bulbs in fall, improving drainage, or simply giving them time can dramatically improve the display.

Think of winter bulbs as a long-term investment, basically; they reward patience more than intervention.

Shopping Essentials:

Winter-flowering bulbs don’t ask for much, basically. Leave the leaves, keep them in the ground, skip the fertilizer, and let nature do the rest.

With the very lightest care, snowdrops and winter aconite will return each year, often stronger and more numerous than before – proof that sometimes the best gardening advice is simply to step back and let plants do what they do best.

Hey, we don't need telling twice.

When it comes to spring-planted bulbs and tubers, the best time to buy is often much earlier than you’d expect. Many standout varieties are grown in limited quantities and tend to sell out quickly, which means waiting until planting season can leave you with fewer — and far less exciting — options. Pre-ordering now is the best way to secure the bulbs you actually want and ensure your garden delivers bold, beautiful results.

Enter Eden Brothers, a favorite brand amongst Gardening Know How experts and your one-stop shop for unique varieties of the most popular bulbs and tubers. Don't fret about timing, as pre-ordered bulbs are packed and shipped at the optimal time for your growing zone, so they arrive when your garden is ready for them.

I’ve rounded up nine spring-planted bulbs and tubers worth pre-ordering now from Eden Brothers — all popular picks that are likely to sell out — so you can lock in your favorites and enjoy a garden that turns heads come late spring and summer.

1. Begonias

Begonias are a go-to for gardeners who want nonstop color with minimal fuss. They thrive in containers, hanging baskets, and shadier spots where other blooms struggle, making them incredibly versatile. If you’re looking for reliable impact from spring through summer, begonias are an easy win.

2. Calla Lilies

Calla lilies are a favorite for gardeners who love clean lines and elegant design. Their sculptural blooms and rich color palette make them perfect for both modern landscapes and romantic cottage gardens. Pre-ordering now is the best way to secure unique shades.

3. Canna Lilies

If bold, tropical drama is what you’re after, canna lilies deliver in a big way. Known for their oversized foliage and vibrant, exotic blooms, cannas instantly make gardens feel lush and intentional. They’re especially popular for adding height and color to beds, borders, and containers — and pre-ordering ensures access to standout varieties before they sell out.

4. Dahlias

If there’s just one plant you pre-order this season, make it dahlias. From moody, dramatic gardens to soft pastel cottagecore looks, there’s a dahlia for every style. With everything from tidy pom-pom blooms to jaw-dropping dinner-plate flowers, it’s no surprise dahlias are among the most popular tubers year after year. Eden Brothers offers a whopping 119 varieties of dahlias — here are some of their bestsellers.

5. Daylilies

Daylilies are the definition of plant-once, enjoy-for-years gardening. These hardy perennials return year after year with cheerful blooms and very little maintenance required. With countless colors and forms available, they’re perfect for filling borders and creating a polished, full look.

6. Gladiolus

Gladiolus are all about height and drama. Their tall flower spikes add instant structure to garden beds and make stunning cut flowers for bold arrangements. Pre-ordering ensures access to the most eye-catching colors before they’re gone.

7. Peonies

Peonies are the ultimate garden investment. Their lush, fragrant blooms are beloved in gardens and bouquets alike, and once established, they can thrive for decades. Pre-ordering is key if you want the best varieties — these sell out fast for a reason.

8. Ranunculus

Ranunculus bring serious florist energy to the garden. Their tightly layered, rose-like blooms look straight out of a bouquet and are especially prized for cutting gardens. If you want spring flowers that feel elevated and intentional, ranunculus are a must.

9. Oriental Poppies (Papaver Orientale)

Okay, technically oriental poppies are not bulbs or tubers, but rather bare roots. I couldn't resist including them in this list — they're simply too stunning not to. Their large, papery blooms and vivid colors create unforgettable displays in late spring and early summer. They may bloom briefly, but the impact is absolutely worth it.

One tiny speck of lily pollen brushed onto a cat’s fur—or a quick sip from vase water—can trigger sudden, severe kidney failure with almost no room for error if help comes late.

Gardeners adore true lilies for those bold trumpets and sweet scent that fill summer beds without much fuss. Cat owners, though, pause hard before planting. Check solid lists of plants toxic to cats first. Anyone still set on growing lilies often ends up fencing the patch but it's best to skip them altogether

The word “lily” is used for all sorts of plants, and that muddies everything. Risks range from deadly to just plain irritating. Fast vet trips make the difference when curiosity gets the better of your feline friend. Let's explore the dangers of true lilies for cats and what plants are safe to have instead.

Are Lilies Toxic to Cats?

Yes, certain lilies prove highly toxic, hitting the kidneys hard and fast. Cats unknowingly process the toxins differently from dogs, leading to rapid failure that can turn fatal without prompt vet care.

Symptoms start mild—vomiting, drooling, lethargy—but progress quickly. Even licking pollen off fur or sipping vase water delivers enough poison. It takes a bit for full effects to show, often 12 to 24 hours, then kidneys shut down within days if untreated.

If you think your cat has come into contact with a lily, please call your vet immediately or contact ASPCA Poison Control at (888) 426-4435.

What Happens If a Cat Ingests Lily Parts?

The toxin attacks kidney tubules directly. Early signs include appetite loss and more vomiting. By day two or three, urination stops, and the cat becomes severely ill.

Treatment involves aggressive fluids and supportive care, sometimes for days. Vets induce vomiting if caught super early, but most cases need hospitalization. Pollen is powdery and sticky, easy for cats to groom into their systems after brushing against blooms.

What Are the Worst Lilies for Cats?

True lilies from the Lilium genus top the danger list—Asiatic, Easter, Stargazer, tiger, and oriental lily varieties. All parts contain the toxin, no exceptions. The specific nephrotoxin has not been fully isolated or characterized.

Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.) match that severity, common in borders and escaping notice in bouquets. These cause the same kidney crisis, even from a single petal or leaf nibble. Skip them entirely around cats.

Are Any Lilies Safe for Cats?

Not entirely, but some don't pose the severe kidney threat. Peace lilies cause mouth irritation from calcium oxalate crystals, leading to drooling and vomiting, yet rarely escalate.

Calla lilies work the same way—painful burning in the mouth and throat, possible swelling, but no organ failure. Peruvian lilies (Alstroemeria) might upset the stomach mildly. Still, keep them out of reach.

Cat-Safe Alternatives to Lilies

In outdoor plantings, blazing star, yellow coneflowers, and snapdragons will serve the same purpose as toxic daylilies. They have beautiful, vibrant flowers that add a vertical element to your landscaping and spread a bit for good ground cover.

There are also plenty of cat-safe plants that will look just as lovely as a lily in your home. Brightly-colored bromeliads, delicate moth orchids, and sweetly-scented hoya vines are great alternatives to grow instead.

Interested in more pet-safe houseplants? The carefully curated pet-friendly plants collection from Lively Root is a great place to start if you are looking to introduce more plants but have cats or dogs in your home.

Cat owners can still enjoy flowers, just not lilies of the deadly kind. Stick to vetted safe blooms, ban true lilies and daylilies from the property, and watch bouquets closely. Quick vet visits turn scary moments around—better safe than sorry with these beauties.

Frequently Asked Questions

I remember my confusion as a child when I first heard that you plant spring bulbs in fall and fall bulbs in spring. As it turns out, that’s not a hard and fast rule. You can get bulbs to bloom in winter too, using a process called forcing.

Forcing bulbs simply means getting a bulb to bloom at a time other than its normal schedule. Not every bulb can be forced, but those that can provide a lovely burst of spring beauty right when we need it most… in January! Amaryllis is the classic bulb to force, but it’s hardly the only one. Here are five more to try:

1. Daffodils

Daffodils are generally spring bulbs. In fact they're considered a classic harbinger of spring. They're admired for their charming yellow flowers – with outer petals around a cup of inner petals – and a sweet, citrusy fragrance. Their botanical name is Narcissus pseudonarcissus.

Although traditionally daffodils are trumpet-shaped canary-yellow blossoms, that’s not your only choice for forcing. There are many varieties of daffodils you can force, including some with ivory blossoms (‘Mt. Hood’), golden blossoms (‘Bridal Crown’), and white blossoms with salmon cups (‘Accent’).

Daffodils are among the easiest bulbs to force and their cheery charm is much appreciated in January. They do need a chill period of 3 to 4 months however, where they are placed in a cold, dark environment with a temperature below 45 degrees.

Daffodils are said to symbolize fresh starts, hope, and joy. If you are forcing them indoors, keep them out of reach of pets and kids. They are toxic if ingested.

Snag your own daffodil bulbs from Home Depot and get planting today!

2. Paperwhite Narcissus

Paperwhites (with the botanical name of Narcissus papyraceus) are as starry as a flower can be. They produce clusters of pure small, white, star-shaped blossoms with an intense, sweet fragrance and are another good choice for forcing indoors in winter.

Paperwhites are also part of the Narcissus genus, like daffodils, and are similarly easy to force. With very little effort, you can have their sweet fragrance and cheerful beauty in winter.

And, like daffodils, these delicate blooms are toxic to both humans and pets if eaten, so position them accordingly.

While some bulbs need to be forced in soil, paperwhite forcing is even easier. A paperwhite bulb will bloom in a month in pebbles and water. Like amaryllis, they don’t need a long cold period either – just a couple weeks in a cool location suffices.

You can get paperwhite bulbs delivered straight to you from Amazon.

3. Hyacinths

Hyacinths (Hyacinthus orientalis) are right up there with daffodils and paperwhite when it comes to easy forcing. They are stunning flowers in a wide range of colors - from bright purple to pink, blue, white and yellow - and the icing on the cake is their sweet fragrance.

Hyacinth forcing is flexible – they can be planted in soil or in water. In either case, they will need around 12-14 weeks of chill time before being set out to bloom. Don’t try to cheat on this; if you don’t chill long enough, they simply will not bloom. If you let them chill appropriately, at the end of the period, you’ll see little shoots grow. When those shoots are a few inches tall, bring them out of the cold area and into the sun. Expect flowers in a matter of weeks.

You can plant your hyacinth bulbs straightaway from Lowe's.

4. Tulips

Who doesn’t love tulips? They manage to look both elegant and sexy at the same time, in bold colors that are just plain exciting, anything from scarlet to gold to lavender to black. Tulips – in the Tulipa genus – force nicely, but you’ll have to get started early.

No forcing tulips in water. These bulbs must be forced in soil, well-draining soil. And they’ll need a chill time of some 10-16 weeks. Curiously, the later you start the chilling, the less time the bulbs require. If you start chilling in September, count on four months; if you start in December, only two and a half months.

After the chill period is over, move the pots to a spot with bright, indirect light. Once they develop shoots of a couple of inches, move to a site with direct sun. When those buds appear and open, you can place the pot where it will get the most admiring glances. What a treat it is to have pots of tulips blooming in winter.

Tulip bulbs are out of stock in a lot of stores, but can get your own today at Home Depot.

5. Crocuses

So much beauty in a tiny package! The tiny crocus bulbs (Crocus spp.) can deliver such joy in the middle of winter with so little effort from you. Their tiny, perfect flowers create a plant that is pure magic.

Crocuses force easily in soil, but require that pesky chilling period. For these charming flowers, it’s 12-15 weeks. If you’re impatient, just remember that the chilling period represents winter, and when you bring them out of the cold, they think it’s spring... even if it is really the middle of January. Just set them in a bright window and watch the white shoots that grew during cold storage turn green. Expect those blooms anywhere from two weeks to a month after the chill period is over.

These crocus bulbs from Lowe's are a beautiful mix of colors at a price that can't be beat.

Take Out the Guesswork!

Wax-covered amaryllis bulbs are a popular holiday plant because of their ease of care. Just set the amaryllis bulb in a warm, bright location and wait for the colorful blooms to emerge. Everything the plant needs is encased within the wax.

But after flowering is finishes, the question arises, “Will a waxed amaryllis rebloom?” Typically, waxed bulbs are tossed at the end of the blooming period. But with careful follow-up care after flowering, you can get an amaryllis to rebloom – even one that's encased in wax.

When all the blooms fade, there are a few simple amaryllis care tips to follow that will ensure you have years of beautiful blooms. After years of growing (and reblooming amaryllis bulbs) I've laid out exactly how to do it, step-by-step. Here's what to do with an amaryllis in wax after it blooms and get it to flower again next holiday season.

1. Remove Wax & Encourage Growth

A waxed amaryllis bulb after blooming is totally spent and needs to regenerate roots as well as carbohydrates so it can bloom again. The first thing to do immediately after blooming is to carefully peel off the wax from around the bulb. Be extra cautious in case there are new roots growing that may be embedded in the wax. Also, remove any wire that was inserted to make the bulb stand up on its own.

When the wax is all gone, inspect the bulb for dark or sunken areas that could indicate disease. Discard any amaryllis bulbs that are rotting or showing signs of disease. If you don’t see any roots, you can encourage new roots by setting the bulb on a folded, moist paper towel on a flat surface, like a shallow dish or tray. Set the tray near a window and keep the paper towel moist until roots develop, typically about four to six weeks.

When roots are about 3 inches (8 cm) long, repot your amaryllis in a container that is about 2 inches (5 cm) wider than the bulb and has drainage holes. Use an all-purpose potting soil, like this one from Miracle-Gro, and keep the neck of the bulb above the soil. When you water, avoid getting water in the center of the bulb, where stems emerge.

Keep the plant watered and in full sunlight so the bulb can revitalize. You can move your amaryllis outside for the summer after the threat of frost is past. Only fertilize amaryllis plants once leaves are growing. Apply a slow-release fertilizer (NPK 10-10-10), like this balanced granular plant food from Amazon, every three months or as recommended on the fertilizer package. Or you can try a liquid houseplant fertilizer, like this one from Miracle-Gro that's specifically for blooming houseplants. Only apply it monthly or as suggested on the package.

2. Force Dormancy

To make an amaryllis bulb enter dormancy, stop feeding and watering your plant in late summer or early fall. Your plant needs this period of rest to regain strength for another holiday or winter bloom.

When the soil is dry, move your amaryllis plant in its container to a closet or other cool, dark location for 10 to 12 weeks. Remove the leaves as they fade.

3. Bring It Back to Bloom

To force new amaryllis flowers indoors, you need to bring your plant out of dormancy in early winter. After 12 weeks of dormancy – or sooner if it begins to show signs of growth – move your amaryllis back into bright light and begin watering.

In about four to six weeks, new leaves should emerge, followed by bloom stalks. Sometimes the bloom stalk emerges first, then the leaves. When the amaryllis begins to bloom, you can move it to a cooler area out of direct sun and the flowers will last longer.

After the blooms fade, you can cut off the stalk close to the base. But let the leaves continue to grow. You can start the process all over again by watering and fertilizing the plant and moving it outside for the summer after the threat of frost has passed.

Do Waxed Amaryllis Bulbs Always Rebloom?

Sometimes a waxed bulb is so spent it simply cannot gather enough carbohydrates to bloom again in the winter. If this is the case, you may end up with an amaryllis with leaves and no flowers. If that happens, keep caring for it and it should bloom next year.

It happens to so many of us. Joyful crocuses burst out of the ground to herald spring, but once they fade those leaves are just... sitting there. Begging to be sheared away in a frenzy of spring cleaning.

You have to resist that urge! Cutting back leaves too soon is error in crocus care that disrupts more than aesthetics; it undermines the photosynthetic surge that rebuilds energy stores essential for dormancy and regrowth. Crocus leaves drive this process, converting sunlight into reserves that fortify the corm against summer's rest and winter's chill.

The Fatal Mistake Most Gardeners Make

It's a common mistake people make with most bulbs after blooming. Prune crocus foliage too soon, and those ripple effects build up fast – offsets just don't develop, blooms get smaller and fewer each year, until you're shelling out for new bulbs to bring the bed back to life.

If you hold off, however, your crocuses will naturalize. They'll set up colonies that pretty much take care of themselves, their steady show grounding the whole season and making room for the perennials that follow without a hitch.

Cutting or Removing the Foliage Too Soon

Gardeners end up going after crocus foliage with shears or the mower not long after the flowers drop, figuring those grassy straps are nothing but mess getting in the way of the new growth around them. That move stops photosynthesis right when it's cranking, cutting off the carbs the bulbs need to rebuild what they used up on all those flowers. Miss that window, and the corms head into dormancy already run down, with no real shot at making offsets or strong new shoots to carry on.

The impact manifests gradually: first in reduced vigor, then in sparse clusters that require division or replanting to maintain coverage. Species like Crocus tommasinianus, valued for naturalizing, prove especially vulnerable, as their small size amplifies the loss from even minor disruptions. Horticultural studies indicate that such early removal can cut next-season yields by half, a setback that erodes the plant's perennial potential over repeated cycles.

Why Is This a Problem?

Crocus foliage functions as the bulb's primary nutrient gatherer post-bloom, harnessing light to produce sugars that migrate to the corm, replenishing phosphorus and potassium depleted during bud formation. Truncating this period starves the storage process, leaving scales thin and prone to rot in storage. The result is diminished root initiation and fewer daughter bulbs, perpetuating decline in established beds.

Soil fertility alone can’t compensate; uptake relies on intact leaves to facilitate absorption, ensuring elements like iron remain available for chlorophyll maintenance. In untreated plots, this shortfall leads to chlorotic tips that further impair recovery, creating a feedback loop of undernourishment. Allowing full maturation – typically six weeks – secures the transfer, yielding corms that emerge stronger and more prolific.

Why Do People Make This Mistake?

The disheveled appearance of wilting crocus leaves offends tidy sensibilities, clashing with neat lawn edges or rising perennials that demand space. Misconceptions about disease or pests from browning edges fuel the impulse, though healthy stands rarely harbor threats. Busy schedules compound it, with spring's rush compressing tasks into sweeps that encompass more than intended. Recognizing these drivers reframes the leaves as allies in renewal, encouraging markers or delayed cuts that preserve the bed's future bounty.

The Right Way to Care for Crocuses After Blooming

1. Let the Leaves Yellow and Die Back Naturally
2. Lightly Feed the Soil with a Balanced or Bulb Fertilizer
3. Water Sparingly but Keep the Soil Slightly Moist

Why Post-Bloom Care Matters

Crocus bulbs persist as perennials through this critical interval, their vitality dependent on foliage's final contributions to build up reserves against dormancy and frost. Skimp here, and returns diminish progressively; invest thoughtfully, and colonies expand, their proliferation creating expansive drifts that define early spring.

This regimen extends beyond ornamentation, bolstering biodiversity as robust plants provision nectar for emerging pollinators and stabilize soil against erosion. Decaying leaves enhance tilth, buffering pH for companions and fostering microbial activity that sustains fertility. Over years, such beds require minimal renewal, evolving into resilient features that punctuate the landscape with dependable cheer.

I don't know about you, but, by the time Christmas finally rolls around, I’m usually craving something calmer on my table. Not another glitter-dusted decoration, not a lavish candelabra that blocks conversation, and definitely not something that looks amazing for one day and tired the next.

No, what I want – especially during the holidays – is something simple, natural, and easy. And that’s why, every year, I always come back to the same DIY centerpiece: forced paperwhite bulbs arranged in a shallow bowl. Maybe with a few extra festive goodies thrown in for good measure, if I'm feeling really fancy.

It’s unfussy, affordable, and best of all, it evolves as the season goes on. What could be better, eh?

Why I Love Paperwhites So Much

Paperwhites look beautiful from the moment you set them out. Even before they bloom, in fact, you can enjoy the pale bulbs, papery skins, and the fresh green shoots –and they look just as lush alongside a holiday meal as they do on a sideboard or kitchen counter.

If I had more lead time, I’d start paperwhites earlier for guaranteed Christmas Day blooms. But over the years, I’ve stopped trying to make everything peak on one specific day. Starting them in mid-to-late December usually means they burst into flower between Christmas and New Year,.

Honestly? That's when I need them most; after the rush of hosting, gift-giving, and late nights, I need a hard reset, and those starry white blooms feel exactly that. I like to think of them as a reminder that something is still growing, even as the year winds down to its close.

How To Do It

Paperwhites are ideal for indoor forcing because they don’t require a cold period or weeks in the fridge: they just need warmth, light, and a little patience.

To set them up, I use a shallow bowl or low ceramic dish. I fill the container half full of clean pebbles, gravel, or marbles, and place the bulbs atop this material so that they sit close together for a fuller look. Water goes in just to the base of the bulbs (but never enough to submerge them, as this can cause rot. Not very festive).

I keep the bowl in a bright spot, turning it every few days so the stems grow straight. Within a week or two, shoots appear, and soon after that, buds begin to form. Then comes the fun bit: I’ll sometimes tuck moss around the bulbs, add dried citrus slices, or a few evergreen sprigs. Sometimes, though, I just leave it exactly as it is.

DIY Bulb Centerpiece Essentials:

The look is understated but intentional; think “winter table,” rather than overtly festive.

And because it’s living, it keeps changing. My little girls, every curious and watchful, start to notice and ask questions. It becomes part of the conversation, rather than something you clear away to make room for the food. Dare I say it, it becomes as much a part of all the holiday traditions as the food itself.

I guess the biggest shift for me has been letting go of the idea that everything has to be perfect for Christmas Day. This centerpiece doesn’t rush; it unfolds slowly, and in doing so, it carries the season forward instead of ending it (you can even plant them outside if you're in USDA zone 10).

By the time January rolls around and most decorations have been packed away, those paperwhites are still blooming, quietly brightening the table and reminding me why I chose them in the first place.

In November, Martha Stewart shared a blog post about one of her favorite winter garden traditions: Protecting her beloved dahlia tubers without digging them up. Dahlias may appear like they’re fragile and can rip easily, but with the right care in winter, they can survive the frigid cold and bloom back to life come spring.

Martha’s method is actually quite simple and surprisingly doesn’t require much effort from the gardener. It’s perfect for the person who wants beautiful dahlias without the yearly ritual of having to lift and store the tubers.

Why Leave Dahlias in the Ground?

Dahlias are tender perennials, which means they can’t naturally handle freezing cold temperatures. Most gardeners dig up and store dahlia bulbs in their basement or garage in order to replant them when warm temperatures finally return.

Leaving dahlias in the ground allows the root system to mature undisturbed and saves the gardener time and guesswork in spring.

1. Start With a Thick Mulch Blanket

Start the winter process by cutting blackened foliage down to a few inches above the soil. After than is the most important step: insulation.

To do this, create a deep pile of mulch, around 8 to 12 inches (20-30 cm) high, over each clump of tubers. This could consist of shredded leaves, pine needle mulch, or straw. This keeps the soil temperature stable and protects tubers from the dreaded freeze-thaw cycle. Try this Premium Brown Pine Bark Mulch from Lowe’s. It offers excellent insulation and settles naturally over the winter months.

2. Add a Weather Shield

If winters where you live involve heavy rain, ice, or strong wind, adding a breathable cover will help. This plant cover from Amazon is for plants low to the ground, protecting them from sleet, snow, frost, and wind. It’s great for an easy, hands-off approach and works well if you live in a very cold climate. You can also buy a roll of burlap fabric from Amazon. Burlap is a favorite as it keeps the mulch in place while still allowing moisture and air to move through.

Bonus tip: If you use burlap, you can tuck a few evergreen branches leftover from the Christmas on top for a bit of extra protection and a cute holiday aesthetic.

3. Don’t Forget About Drainage

Cold can be challenging, but soggy soil is a whole other beast. Dahlia tubers rot easily when wet, especially in compacted soil, and even if they’re insulated. If your garden tends to stay damp in winter (say if you live in an area that gets a lot of rain), consider slightly raising your planting area or mixing in a coarse compost to help improve drainage.

This garden soil from Lowe’s works especially well as it loosens dense soil and helps drain water away from the tubers.

4. Mark Your Clumps for Spring

Your work isn’t completely done! Once you’ve tucked in your dahlias for the winter, place a marker next to each dahlia mound. Winter has a way of making you forget what is planted where, especially when it gets covered by snow and leaves.

What to Expect When the Weather Warms

Once spring arrives, we’re all so excited that it’s tempting to uncover everything right away. Resist this temptation! Pull back mulch gradually to protect the tender new growth, especially as you can still have unexpected frost, even in spring.

The tubers will sprout when the soil warms up, and if winter still causes some partial dieback, dahlias usually rebound quickly once they get going.

A Gentle, Sustainable Way to Garden

Martha Stewart’s hack for winter dahlia defense is a reminder that gardening doesn’t need to be hard labor. With a thick layer of mulch, breathable protection, and a little patience, you can keep your dahlias safe throughout the winter.

Knowing when to cut back dahlias in winter can feel confusing, especially when advice varies wildly by climate and frost timing. These late-blooming stunners often put on a show into November, meaning they are spared in the fall garden tidy up. When the display is over, fading dahlias make the garden look messy, but cutting them back too soon can lead to problems including tuber rot and weakened plants that produce fewer flowers next year.

Leaving your dahlias too late is less of a problem than cutting too soon, but it makes it difficult if you plan to dig up and store the bulbs. Ideally this should be done before prolonged periods of frost and snow. Personally, I never dig up my dahlias and instead overwinter them in the ground. I mulch them for insulation, but beyond that it’s a case of survival of the fittest. That said, if you live in USDA Zone 6 or colder, storing dahlias indoors over winter is often necessary.

Whether you’re leaving your dahlias in the ground or digging them up for winter, this part of dahlia care often feels the most uncertain. But there is one rule I always follow that removes all the guesswork and ensures I cut them back at just the right time.

My Easy Rule

After 15 years of growing dahlias, I have developed this golden rule: “If dahlias are black, cut them back; if they’re green, leave them be.” Essentially, you shouldn’t cut back your dahlias until the first hard frost has killed the top growth. You’re looking for blackened foliage and flower heads, and stems that are browning.

It’s important to avoid cutting back dahlias before this stage because the plants continue sending energy to the tubers until frost kills the foliage. Frost doesn’t trigger dormancy – shortening days do – but frost does mark the point when the plant stops photosynthesizing and tubers stop taking in energy. Cutting too early interrupts this process and can reduce tuber vigor – or, in the worst case, kill the tubers.

The exception to this rule is if you live in a frost-free climate, in which case you should cut back in late autumn or winter once nights consistently drop down below 40°F (4–5°C).

What to Do When Frost Arrives

Before cutting back your dahlias, confirm the frost damage. As well as foliage going black, other signs of frost kill include stems going limp and darkening; they may also be a bit mushy. If in doubt, wait another day or two to be sure.

When you’re ready to go, take clean, sharp pruners (I love my Felco 2 pruners, available on Amazon) and cut the stems back to 4–6 inches above the soil line. Leaving a little stem makes it easier to lift the tubers or provides a bit of extra height for mulching if you plan to leave them in the ground.

Lifting and Storing

If you plan to lift and store dahlia tubers, then after cutting back you should dig them up immediately – or within the next couple of days. Don’t just leave them sitting there for weeks.

While you want the dahlias to have been blackened by frost, you don’t want to dig them up when the ground is frozen. If the soil is dry or compacted, water lightly the day before to make the job easier.

Rather than using a shovel to lift your tubers – which can cut them – use a digging fork or border fork, like this Spear and Jackson fork on Amazon. Dahlia tubers spread far beyond the visible stems, so dig 8–12 inches (20–30 cm) out from the base in all directions (14–16 inches/35–40 cm for very large plants). Loosen the soil around them with your fork to free the clump, then slide the fork deep underneath at a shallow angle and carefully lift the tubers.

Lift and gently shake them from side to side, letting excess soil fall away naturally. Only rinse lightly if necessary – but preferably not until it's time to divide dahlia tubers. Holding a single tuber often snaps the neck, so instead cradle the crown (the central stem base) to avoid damage.

Let the tuber clumps dry for about a day or two so the cut ends can callus over. Pack them in a barely damp medium like peat moss, vermiculite, or wood shavings, then store them in a ventilated box in a cool area, such as an unheated basement or garage – ideally 40–50°F (4–10°C). Don’t forget to label them before storing so you know which varieties you have. Check monthly for shriveling or rot, adjusting moisture as needed to keep the tubers firm.

Leaving Tubers in the Ground

If you live in USDA Zones 8 to 10, you can comfortably leave tubers in the ground. If you live in Zone 7, you can leave them with some extra care. Mulching is key and should be applied to a depth of 6–12 inches (15–30 cm) in colder areas; in warmer zones, 3–6 inches (8–15cm) is usually enough. Use straw, compost, bark, or fallen leaves turned into leaf mulch, and keep it a few inches away from the stems to prevent rot.

As well as helping to regulate soil temperature, mulching suppresses weeds and keeps the soil evenly moist.

If a particularly cold snap is expected, add horticultural fleece for a short period, like this one from Amazon. Keep it in place with bricks and remove once the worst of the weather has passed as prolonged use reduces breathability and traps moisture.

In early spring, once the danger of hard frost has mostly passed and the soil has begun to warm, you can remove the mulch. Pull it back gradually as temperatures rise. In colder regions, keep a light layer handy in case you need to cover young growth during a late cold snap.

Spent your entire fall planning to plant a bulb lasagna but never got around to it? Don’t worry, even the most organized gardeners have found themselves staring at a bag of tulips in winter and thinking it’s too late.

Not to get too Noah from The Notebook about it, it’s absolutely not over. In fact, a last-minute bulb lasagna might just be the easiest way to guarantee a breathtaking spring display, whatever USDA Hardiness Zone you’re in.

A bulb lasagna is exactly what it sounds like: layers of spring bulbs planted at different depths so they emerge in waves from early March through May. It’s a simple, space-saving technique that works beautifully in containers, especially if you garden in a small space or want instant impact by the front door. And, because each layer grows at its own pace, the container stays colorful for weeks instead of fizzling out after one bloom... so long as you use the right planting recipe, of course.

A Last-Minute Bulb Lasagna

‘Bulb lasagnas can be planted well into December, which will result in flowering pots come April or May,’ promises Andrew Bunting, VP of Horticulture for the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society and author of The Plant Lover's Guide To Magnolias (available on Amazon).

That’s right, folks: so long as your soil isn’t frozen, you can plant daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, crocuses, or even some of the more unusual spring-flowering bulbs. So, how best to go about it?

Well, if time is of the essence, then Andrew says it’s best to gather up three different types of bulbs that bloom at different times: think late-season daffodils, mid-season tulips or hyacinths, and a handful of early-bloomers like Chionodoxa, Leucojum, snowdrops, or muscari.

Once you’ve made your choice, grab yourself a pot that is at least 30 cm (12 inches) deep, and set to work layering it up with bulbs and compost – taking care to remember that ‘all bulbs should still be planted at a depth of three times the length of the bulb’, adds Andrew.

You’ll need to make sure that the larger daffodils make up your bottom layer (as they’re so deep, they will take time to emerge), your tulips or hyacinths make up the middle, and your smaller, early spring-flowering bulbs go on on top.

‘After planting, water the container thoroughly before moving it to a cool and dark place where it does not get below 30 degrees for 10-12 weeks,’ he continues. ‘It is important to cover the top of the container with some sort of wire mesh like an old window screen to keep out chipmunks, mice, squirrels, and other hungry critters who will try to eat the bulbs.’

Your Last-Minute Bulb Lasagna Essentials:

• A Decent Planter
  When you're choosing your planter, make sure you pick one with drainage holes to prevent waterlogging. Something like these Prima Round Planter Pots from Amazon should do the trick nicely.
  
• A Clever Planting Tool
  If you’re not sure about your ability to eyeball depths when planting in layers, something like Amazon's Berry & Bird Transplant Trowel with its handy built-in measurements should help.
  
• A Good-Quality Compost
  As ever and always, your potting medium is key to creating a lasting display when you’re building up your bulb lasagna. You can't go wrong with R&M Organics Premium Organic Compost from Amazon.

Andrew finishes by noting: ‘After this period has passed, then the bulbs can be brought out into the garden or even used in the home. The emerging buds will start to grow and in a matter of weeks, you will have a pot filled with a mix of flowering bulbs.’

So, there we have it; it’s not too late to plant a bulb lasagna. In fact, there is still plenty of time, as the cooler winter soil will actually encourage healthy root growth before spring kicks off.

All you need is a large pot, good-quality compost, three layers of bulbs, and, ooh, about 20 minutes to bring Andrew’s failproof recipe to life in your garden? Honestly, it’s perfect for any green-fingered procrastinators (or last-minute Larries, if you prefer) who still want a showstopper moment come spring.

Figuring out how to keep squirrels from digging up bulbs frustrates gardeners every autumn, as those relentless foragers transform promising drifts into scattered chaos overnight. You spend hours tucking corms into cool soil, envisioning a sea of purple and gold come spring, only to wake to furrows and unearthed treasures scattered like confetti.

The disruption undermines the bulb's chance to settle and store, leading to spotty emergence that demands replanting year after year. Yet solutions abound when you look beyond the obvious, tying into the core practices of crocus care that ensure crocus thrive season after season. Finding out how to stop squirrels digging up bulbs calls for strategies that respect the garden's rhythm, masking scents and textures without harming the soil or its inhabitants.

Knowing how to prevent squirrels from digging up bulbs demands quick action in planting season, yet many chase gadgets that fail fast. One spice from your spice rack shifts the game, a kitchen essential that scatters without harm and holds through winter's wet. It's the low-effort edge that turns raided rows into reliable performers, easing the worry of what lurks beneath the mulch.

What Attracts Squirrels to Newly Planted Bulbs

Squirrels home in on freshly turned earth because the disturbed soil releases scents of moisture and microbes, signaling a prime spot for caching amid fall's gathering chill. Loose dirt yields easily to claws, far simpler than prying nuts from branches, while the faint, starchy aroma of crocus corms mimics the tubers they instinctively bury for lean months ahead. This combination turns your planting holes into beacons, drawing opportunistic paws that probe without pause.

Curiosity seals the deal; a changed landscape piques their exploratory nature, especially in yards where human activity already scatters treats like birdseed or compost scraps.

Why Crocus Bulbs Are Especially Vulnerable in Fall

Fall coincides with squirrels' hyperphagia, a pre-winter binge where they amass up to 10,000 calories daily, making every loose bulb a potential stockpile. Crocus corms, planted shallow for quick emergence, sit at paw level without the deep-set protection of later tulips, their soft coats no match for determined teeth. Cooling soil slows decomposition, so any unearthed corm lingers exposed, tempting second and third visits from the same family.

In zones 3 through 7, this overlap with peak acorn drop divides attention but doesn't deter—squirrels sample everything, crocus included, turning your investment into their experiment.

The $1 Kitchen Trick That Actually Works

Ground cinnamon repels through its volatile compounds, which overload squirrel olfactory receptors with a burning tang that mimics danger without toxicity. The spice clings to soil and fur, masking the earthy signals of buried bulbs while irritating paws on contact, prompting a hasty retreat. Bulbs remain unscathed, as cinnamon's mild fungicidal properties even guard against rot in damp falls. You can even get cinnamon in bulk at Amazon.

Squirrels associate the spot with discomfort after one encounter, their circuits rerouted to easier targets down the block.

Step-by-Step

Prepare holes with a light dusting, a pinch per crocus to line the base and sides, then nestle the corm before backfilling to seal the barrier. For surface protection on established beds, broadcast evenly across disturbed areas, raking shallow to embed without compacting. Wear a mask if sensitive, as fine powder can tickle throats on windy days.

A spice shaker simplifies even distribution, its perforations preventing clumps that might clog drains.

Apply at planting to capitalize on fresh disturbance, the spice's potency peaking in cool air that carries it farther underground. Refresh following heavy rains, which dilute surface layers within three to five days, a brief rake and resprinkle restoring the veil.

This cadence fits fall workflows, layering seamlessly with mulching to extend coverage through thaw.

How Much to Use

Moderation rules—a quarter-teaspoon per bulb suffices for holes, or one tablespoon per square foot on top, enough to irritate without overwhelming microbial balance. Excess risks caking in clay soils, but crocus embrace the acidity as a pH perk.

Surface or shallow mixes integrate best, degrading to harmless organics that enrich rather than encumber. A bulb planter like this from Amazon aids precise placement, minimizing waste while protecting tender skins.

Optional - Combine with Mulch

Pair cinnamon with a skim of shredded bark or straw, half an inch thick to pin particles down and add textural resistance that paws find unappealing. This tandem fortifies against wind dispersal, mulch weaving a loose web that slows burrowing without blocking emergence.

Ideal for exposed sites, it evolves with the season—thinning naturally by green-up, leaving no trace beyond the saved planting.

You have plenty of options for flower bulbs to plant in fall that provide beautiful early spring color and cheer. Shady areas of the garden can be tricky, but these options are all spring-blooming flowers that can grow in partial shade or even the deep shade of a wooded area.

For many gardeners, it’s still not too late to get these bulbs in the ground. Your spring flowering bulbs should survive the winter if you can plant them before the ground freezes and provide a little protective mulch.

10 Flower Bulbs for Shade to Plant Now

These are some pretty shade bulbs to plant in the fall that will give you early spring blooms next year:

1. Snowdrops

Snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis) are often the first flowers you see in spring. They’re called snowdrops because they can even emerge and bloom through the snow in late winter or very early spring. Plant snowdrop bulbs in rich soil in a shady spot. They are woodland flowers that can tolerate a lot of shade or just dappled sunlight. Look for unique varieties like giant snowdrop or ‘Wendy’s Gold,’ which has yellow stripes. Snowdrops are hardy in zones 3 through 8.

2. Winter Aconite

If you plant snowdrops and winter aconite (Eranthis hyemalis), they’ll be in a race to be the earliest to bloom. These pretty yellow flowers are related to buttercups. A woodland flower, winter aconite grows readily even in the shade. You can grow it in zones 3 through 7.

3. Siberian Squill

Siberian squill (Scilla siberica) blooms with beautiful clusters of blue star-shaped flowers that hang down from purple stems. Appropriate for zones 2 through 10, this type of squill has a big range. It likes partial shade and soil that drains very well. You can plant them in the lawn, too, for a naturalized look.

4. Glory-of-the-Snow

Glory-of-the-Snow (Chiconodoxa luciliae) is an early bloomer that often appears while there is still snow on the ground. Native to western Turkey, you can grow glory-of-the-snow in zones 3 to 8 to enjoy these petite, star-shaped, violet to white flowers. They grow in full sun or partial shade, need well-drained soil, and tolerate drought well.

5. Wood Anemone

As the name suggests, wood anemone (Anemone nemorosa) is a woodland flower. It has rhizomes, but you can plant them as you would your bulbs. The flowers are bright white with yellow centers and bloom in early to mid-spring. Suitable for zones 5 through 8, wood anemone makes a pretty groundcover for shady areas.

6. Spanish Bluebells

There are few things prettier than an abundance of bluebells in spring. If you have a wooded or shaded area of the garden, Spanish bluebells (Hyacinthoides hispanica) will thrive. Hardy in zones 3 through 8, Spanish bluebells are most often blue but also come in shades of pink, purple, and white.

7. Bird-in-a-Bush

Also called fumewort, Corydalis solida grows from tubers, which you can plant alongside your fall bulbs in zones 4 through 8. They’ll need rich, moist soil that drains well and a spot with no more than partial sun. A wooded spot is ideal. Bird-in-a-bush gets its common name from the unusual flower shape, which is long and tubular with long spurs. It resembles a bird sitting on a branch. This spring flower comes in several colors, from a unique bluish-green to purple, white, blue, and yellow.

8. Spring Snowflake

Spring snowflake (Leucojum vernum) is an early-flowering bulb from the amaryllis family. The stems bloom in spring with white, bell-shaped flowers. Native to Europe, spring snowflake is hardy in zones 4 through 8 and can grow in full sun or partial shade. Be aware that this plant is highly toxic.

9. Trout Lily

Trout lily (Erythonium americanum) is a North American woodland flower that thrives in shade and is hardy in zones 3 through 8. It does best in moist, rich soils and grows from corms rather than bulbs. The leaves have an interesting mottled coloring, like a trout. Although not a true lily, the single flower that blooms on each plant looks like a small, yellow lily.

10. Camas

Also known as wild hyacinth, this North American native grows in meadows and on the edges of forests. Multiple flowers bloom on tall stems in shades of blue, purple, and white. Grow camas (Camassia spp.) in zones 3 through 8 in full sun or partial shade and in soil that drains well but stays consistently moist.

When It’s Too Late to Plant Bulbs (and When It’s Not)

There is no set date that limits when you can and cannot plant fall bulbs for shade. Ideally, these bulbs should go in the ground when the soil temperature is consistently below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 Celsius) and before the first hard frost.

The planting window might be later than you think, especially if you live in a warmer growing zone. Some gardeners can plant bulbs as late as December for spring blooms. It’s definitely too late to plant your spring-flowering bulbs if the ground has frozen solid.

Tips for Late Bulb Planting

Add some compost or good-quality potting soil to the area you’re planting bulbs for better drainage. Bulbs are susceptible to rotting from standing water. Plant bulbs to a depth of about two to three times the size of each bulb. Make sure the pointed end faces up when you cover them over with soil. Water the bulbs just once.

Although it’s not necessarily too late to plant your bulbs, they still might suffer from the cold if you delay. Bulbs need some time to acclimate to the cold and to go into protective dormancy. If you’re planting late, add a layer of mulch over the bulbs to give them some added protection.

Bulb Planting Essentials

On a crisp spring morning, the royal gardens of Highgrove positively shimmer with color. Between the clipped yews and wildflower meadows, drifts of violet blooms seem to glow against the grass: the striking Crocus ‘Remembrance’, which just so happens to be one of King Charles III’s favorite plantings.

Now, I’ve always loved the not-so-humble crocus; usually the first spring-flowering bulb to show its face in the new year, they’ve an uncanny ability to put a smile on my face even when the world is at its grayest. So, when I found out that King Charles III favors one crocus variety in particular, you’d best believe I was keen to find out more.

Thankfully, the Highgrove Gardens website was all too happy to oblige, revealing that the Crocus ‘Remembrance’ features prominently in both the Wild Flower Meadow and the Buttress Garden, where it provides “a bold statement of color on early spring days.”

A Royal Favorite That Works Stateside

It’s easy to see why the King, a lifelong champion of sustainable horticulture, chose this particular flower to herald the start of the season. Not only does this colorful bloom serve as a vital plant for pollinators in those early months, but it is also – once established – the sort of flower that returns year after year, expanding gently without becoming invasive.

Importantly, you don’t have to be based in a palace to reap its many benefits, or even the United Kingdom; in fact, King Charles III’s favorite crocus is perfectly suited to North American climates, thriving in USDA hardiness zones 3-8.

Which means, yes, gardeners from Minnesota to Georgia can enjoy its jewel-toned flowers with very little fuss.

Better still, you can pick up a bag of Crocus ‘Remembrance’ bulbs in bulk from Amazon. Majestic stuff, right?

Bringing a Touch of Highgrove Home

If you’d like to borrow a bit of royal magic for your own garden, Crocus ‘Remembrance’ can be planted in clusters beneath deciduous trees, at the edge of borders, or even in containers as a part of a bulb trifle display. For the full Highgrove effect, scatter 100 or more bulbs across a small lawn or meadow and let them naturalize freely.

Whatever you decide, just take care to plant it 5 inches deep and about 3 inches apart in well-draining soil (these flowers hate getting their feet wet). A bulb planting tool, like the Edward Tools Bulb Planter on Amazon should help you do this easily.

As a general rule of thumb, crocuses should be planted in November, although remember that planting times will vary slightly depending when you receive your first freeze (King Charles III’s favorite crocus bulbs should be in the ground when soil temperatures are below 60 degrees F, but before the first frost).

As the crocuses at Highgrove push through the frost each spring, they mark not only the changing season but the enduring joy of small, hopeful flowers. And that symbolism becomes all the more poignant once you learn these Dutch natives were named to honor those lost in war, and that their deep purple hue is often associated with dignity and reflection.

I suppose what I'm trying to say – albeit a tad romantically – is this: for gardeners like myself, planting something like King Charles III’s beloved Crocus ‘Remembrance’ is a simple way to bring that royal sense of renewal to our own backyards.

After all, it's proof that even the grandest gardens begin with something as humble as a handful of bulbs.

Frost nips the air and your dahlias droop. The common understanding is that you need to dig up your tender bulbs before the ground freezes. Clean them off, let them dry a spell, then pack them away in a cool spot. Come spring, they burst back with even more flowers. It’s worth the fuss for that extra color punch.

...Or is it? Does the thought of digging in the cold fall soil make you shiver? Does planting bulbs all over again in spring set your teeth on edge? Do you really have to go through all that fuss just to keep your favorites? The answer is: not always.

1. Ground Insulation

This is also known as the "can't I just leave them?" method. Or, in some cases, the "I forgot about my bulbs and they came back anyway!" method.

In certain zones just barely skirting the frost line, you can often get away with leaving your bulbs right where they are. This works best for cannas and certain hardy varieties of gladiolus, especially if you're in USDA zone 7 or higher and only experience brief, light freezes.

1. Wait for the first frost – this will kill the foliage and signal to the bulb that it's time to go dormant.
2. Trim the dead foliage back to about 6 inches (15 cm) above the ground.
3. Wait until the ground just starts to freeze, then apply a very thick layer (8-12 inches or 20-30 cm) of straw, shredded bark, or wood chips. This should keep the soil temperature more stable.
4. Leave your bulbs alone until spring, then pull back the mulch and see what comes up.

While this is the easiest method, it's far from the most reliable. If you get a deep, prolonged freeze, your bulbs aren't likely to make it, so you shouldn't count on this for your prized specimens. But if you tend to have mild winters, or if your bulbs are in a warmer microclimate, it's worth a try.

2. The Pot-and-Forget Method

If your bulb is already planted in a container, why dig it at all? Just bring the soil with it! This method eliminates the mess of shaking off dirt and the risk of damaging the bulbs with a fork. It works best for plants that need a slightly warmer dormancy (like begonias, caladiums, or smaller dahlias), or those with roots that are easily disturbed.

1. After the first frost, let the foliage die back naturally.
2. Trim the dead foliage, leaving 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) above the soil line.
3. Stop watering – this encourages the bulb to go fully dormant and keeps the soil from getting heavy and waterlogged.
4. Move the entire pot – soil and all – into a cool, dark garage or basement. The ideal temperature is 40-50 F (4-10 C). Keep it far from heating vents and spots that fall below freezing.
5. Leave it alone! Resist the urge to water your bulbs – they're happy as they are.
6. In late winter, move the pot into a slightly warmer, brighter area, and start regularly watering. New growth should start to appear.
7. After the last frost of the spring, move your pot back outside.

Think of this method as a half-measure. While you're storing your bulbs indoors, you get to skip the whole ordeal of digging, curing, and replanting. The only drawback is that your plants have to live in containers, which increases the need for watering and can inhibit growth. It's up to you which is more of a hassle.

3. The Lift-and-Store Method: The Best Bloom Guarantee

This is the traditional, most foolproof method. While it's more involved, it’s the guaranteed way to save specific, prize-winning varieties and gives you the chance to divide and multiply the ones you love. Some heirlooms aren’t in stores anymore. Winter storage for tender bulbs lets you lock in that unique shade or shape. Bulbs toughen up too, resisting bugs better next round.

How to Lift and Store Bulbs

1. Digging and Curing

Use a garden fork like this one from Amazon to slide through the soil and under the bulb. Wiggle it loose, and pull up the entire clump. If the soil is really caked on, you can hose the bulbs off. Avoid soaking them too much, though, because excess water invites rot later on.

To cure the bulbs, spread them single layer on racks or screens in a warm, airy spot, around 70-80 F (21-27 C). Cannas will dry out in 1-3 days, while gladiolus bulbs may take up to three weeks. Once the bulbs feel papery and light, they're ready to move on.

2. Trimming and Inspection

Cut away almost all the foliage. You should leave 2-4 inches (5-10 cm) on dahlias, but you can go shorter on others. Inspect each bulb closely under good light; tiny cuts or bruises can worsen in storage. Look close for damage. Healthy bulbs should feel firm. If a bulb has soft spots you can cut them out or just toss the bulb. Dust with fungicide powder like this from Amazon if you spot issues.

Sort your bulbs by type, since storage needs vary slightly. Label varieties clearly to avoid mix-ups in the spring.

3. Long-Term Storage Requirements

You can place your bulbs in a bin like this one from Amazon, though a cardboard box or crate works as well. Apply 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) of vermiculite between layers to keep moisture steady. Make sure there are air holes to keep moisture from building up.

Store your bulbs in a cool garage or basement. Most bulbs are happy in temperatures between 40 and 50 F (4-10 C). Glads like it chillier, around 35 F (2 C). Begonias prefer the warmer end, near 50 F (10 C) to avoid chilling injury.

Check on the bulbs once a month. If they feel shriveled, mist them lightly – just a spritz to plump them back. Rot shows as squishy blackness – these bulbs need to be pulled and discarded immediately, to keep the rot from spreading.

When temperatures rise again, plant them back outside.

They might look innocent sitting in their mesh bags at your local department store or garden center… but some bulbs have a dark side. So much so, in fact, that experts are warning of the invasive bulbs to avoid planting in your garden this fall.

Yes, really. November may have become synonymous with spring bulbs over the years, but that doesn’t mean you should plant them on autopilot. Especially as some of the more thuggish varieties, once established, can take over lawns, woodland edges, and flower beds, pushing out native species and proving nearly impossible to remove.

Whether you’re more fond of classic tulips, then, or tempted by some of the more unusual spring bulbs on offer, here are five bulbs experts warn against planting in your garden, as well as one surprisingly common favorite that deserves a little caution…

1. Star-of-Bethlehem

Star-of-Bethlehem (Ornithogalum umbellatum) is a pretty spring bloomer that has long been dogged by horror stories. Why? Because it reproduces both by seed and underground bulbils, forming dense colonies that crowd out native plants. Or, as the Missouri Department of Conservation warns, because it is “weedy and potentially invasive and should not be planted in the Midwest.”

Once it’s in your soil, this bulb is quick to escape cultivation and notoriously difficult to eradicate; even tiny bulb fragments can regrow like something out of The Day Of The Triffids. So, if you want to play it safe, try an alternative like spring starflower (Ipheion uniflorum) for a charming blue-white bloomer that stays compact and pollinator-friendly.

Shop native and non-invasive spring starflower bulbs via the CZ Grain Store on Amazon.

2. Yellow Flag Iris

Introduced a while back as an ornamental aquatic, yellow flag iris (Iris pseudacorus) has betrayed us all by spreading aggressively through wetlands, lakeshores, and streams. It forms dense mats of rhizomes that choke native wetland vegetation and alter habitats… all of which are, naturally, very bad news.

While its showy yellow blooms may be tempting, consider this one to avoid at all costs. There’s a reason why in many states (including Maryland, Washington, and Oregon) this spring bulb is officially listed as invasive, y'know.

3. Wild Garlic

Looking every bit like an alien plant sent to enslave the human race, wild garlic (Allium vineale) pops up in lawns and pastures across the U.S., producing slender leaves and a strong garlicky scent.

Don’t be fooled by its spot on the allium family tree; every bit as troublesome as wild onions, this invasive spring bulb spreads quickly and is incredibly difficult to dig out once it’s established.

Worse still? This one can actually taint the flavor of milk from grazing livestock; a surefire sign of how pervasive it can be. Avoid, avoid, avoid.

4. Spanish Bluebell

A staple of cottage gardens, Spanish bluebells (Hyacinthoides hispanica) may seem harmless, but they are Trouble with a capital T, happily naturalizing and hybridizing with native bluebells in a plot to outcompete them.

It’s an issue that is famously prevalent in the UK, but fair warning: these beautiful blooms pose just as much a problem here in the U.S. spreading readily in USDA Hardiness Zones where our winters are milder.

Consider this a staunch reminder, then, that even the most beloved ornamental bulbs can behave badly outside their native range. Take care to dig out every single bit lest your garden be completely overrun.

5. Italian Arum

With glossy leaves and bright orange berries, the shade-loving Italian arum (Arum italicum) – also known as Lords and Ladies – is gaining popularity in ornamental borders. However, it spreads by rhizomes and seed, and once it takes hold, it’s extremely hard to remove… so much so that it’s classified as a toxic weed in many areas.

We know, we know; it looks just like the striking calla lily, but this one is poisonous, persistent, and now appearing on invasive watch lists in the Pacific Northwest. A triple threat for gardeners and pets alike, essentially.

Control by digging is most effective for small invasions (we really rate this Stainless Steel Serrated Hand Shovel from Amazon), as is dumping boiling water on the roots at regular intervals.

Wildcard: Grape Hyacinth

We bet you didn’t expect to see the beloved grape hyacinth (Muscari armeniacum / Muscari neglectum) on our list, did you? Surprise!

This tiny spring bulb might be adored for its clusters of blue “grapes,” but it can quietly take over garden borders and lawns. In fact, some U.S. extensions note that it “readily naturalizes and may become invasive in some situations.”

That being said, this one is not a banned plant; just a sneaky spreader. Keep this potentially invasive spring bulb, then, in contained areas or pots if you love its pops of color; something like a bulb trifle should do the trick perfectly!

If this list has taught you anything, let it be this; do your research before planting anything, and always check your state’s invasive plant list through the National Invasive Species Information Center or your local extension service.

Remember, many “problem plants” start out as innocent garden additions, but knowing which invasive spring bulbs to avoid can save you years of backbreaking weeding later.

Good luck, then, and may the odds be ever in your favor...

“The tulip is the loveliest of all flowers. So whoever despised the tulip offends God immeasurably,” said Alexandre Dumas. I suspect, though, that he’d never encountered the delights (read: horrors) of tulip fire before. If you have, or if you simply fancy something a little different to the norm, there’s thankfully a whole world of lesser-known bulbs that you can try instead.

Yes, while classic tulips will always have their place in our hearts and gardens, there are many more unusual spring bulbs which bloom with surprising shapes, scents, and colours. Better still, many of them naturalise beautifully, returning year after year with minimal effort – and, honestly, there’s little we love more than a comeback kid.

Whether you garden in the frosty North or the mild South, then, there’s a unique bulb below for your USDA Hardiness Zone. So go ahead: ditch the ordinary and plant something extraordinary this fall. Come spring, when all your neighbours are eyeing your garden with envy, you’ll be so glad you did.

1. Honey Lily

If you want conversation-starter plants, then the not-so-humble honey lily (Nectaroscordum siculum) is absolutely the way to go. Tall, elegant stems rise in late spring, each topped with a dangling cluster of bell-shaped blooms in soft blush, cream, and green, like nature’s very own chandelier.

As the flowers fade, they twist upward into quirky seedheads that last all summer. If you’re based in USDA Zones 4-10, then, pick up some honey lily bulbs and plant in full sun and well-drained soil.

Trust us when we say that the bees will thank you for it.

2. Camassia

A native North American beauty once cherished by Indigenous peoples for its edible bulbs, camassia (Camassia quamash syn. Camassia esculenta) adds graceful spikes of star-shaped blue flowers to damp spring borders and meadows.

It’s one of those unusual spring bulbs that thrives in those spots across USDA Zones 3-8 where tulips sulk, even in heavier soils. Plant in groups for best effect.

Just take care to leave the fading foliage to feed next year’s blooms before it goes dormant in early summer.

3. Alliums

Allium plants might be related to the simple garden onion, but you’d never know it looking at their splendiferous, low-maintenance, and pollinator-friendly blooms.

We’re technically cheating here, as this one has seeds rather than bulbs, but nodding onion (Allium cernuum) is the unsung hero of the allium family thanks to its slender stems and clusters of pink-mauve bells, which nod in the breeze and draw in bees and butterflies alike.

Native to much of the U.S., it’s drought-tolerant once established and looks equally at home in rock gardens or naturalistic planting across Zones 3-9.

4. Ithuriel’s Spear

For gardeners in warmer regions, this California native is a wonderful unusual spring bulb to try, particularly if you’re a) based in Zones 5-10, and b) in the market for delicate clusters of violet-blue stars on wiry stems.

It’s perfect for cottage gardens, gravel borders, or wildflower meadows. That being said, triteleia bulbs prefer dry summer dormancy, so avoid heavy watering once flowering ends – and don’t be afraid to combine yours with ornamental grasses for that effortless “meadow chic” look.

5. Pretty Face

A close cousin of Ithuriel’s Spear, the aptly named Pretty Face (Triteleia ixioides ‘Starlight’) is an unusual spring bulb which more than lives up to its nickname. Its creamy yellow flowers with violet midribs shimmer in late spring sunlight, creating an almost ethereal glow.

Hardy in Zones 7-11, you can still grow it in pots if you’re based somewhere colder, so long as you bring them under cover in winter. In warmer climates, though, pick up some Ithuriel's Spear without question; it’s a reliable, long-lived performer, and guaranteed to turn heads for all the right reasons.

6. Siberian Squill

One of the earliest bulbs to bloom, Siberian squill (Scilla siberica) carpets the ground in brilliant blue in late winter or early spring. sometimes even through melting snow. It naturalises happily under trees and shrubs, too, creating a woodland feel that tulips could only dream of.

A must-plant for northern gardeners in Zones 2-8, then, pick up some Siberian squill bulbs if you’re looking for dependable early colour.

7. Spring Snowflake

If you love snowdrops but want something a little bolder, try the spring snowflake (Leucojum vernum). This unusual spring bulb produces nodding, bell-shaped blooms in March and April, each petal tipped with a perfect green dot.

It thrives in part shade and moist soil, so it’s ideal for woodland edges, stream banks, or damp garden corners. If this sounds like your garden, then grab yourself some Leucojum snowflakes stat.

When planting your unusual spring bulbs, take care to plant them in well-drained soil (add grit if needed) and always plant in clusters of at least five to seven bulbs for natural impact.

Don’t forget, too, to mark your spots; even bulbs as unusual as these have a tendency to vanish from memory over the bleak midwinter!

Shop Bulb Planting Essentials

Bulbs always seem a bit like magic. Each dry, papery capsule holds a whole plant and everything it needs to bloom. With a little planning, these enchanting flowers can fill your garden with color from snowmelt to first frost. When planting bulbs, timing and depth matter most, but the right techniques and care will help you get the best results – and that starts with knowing what type of bulb you’re working with.

There are bulbs for every season. Fall-planted tulips and daffodils light up spring; tender summer bloomers like gladiolus and canna follow; a few outliers even flower in fall. Whether you’re massing bulbs in borders for big impact or layering them in a patio pot, the fundamentals stay the same: pick firm bulbs, prep soil, plant at the right depth, fertilize, and water well. But if you only remember one key piece of information, then the golden rule for planting depth – two to three times the bulb’s height – will take you a long way.

If you’re sowing bulbs for the first time, this guide walks you through everything step by step. And if you’re already confident with the basics, you’ll find expert-level techniques on how to plant bulbs with improved flower quality and extend bloom times.

Types of Bulbs

In gardening, the term bulb can refer to several underground storage organs: true bulbs, such as tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths; corms, including gladioli and crocus; tubers, like dahlias and tuberous begonias; and rhizomes, such as bearded iris and canna lilies. Knowing which types of bulbs you are working with matters for planting depth, winter care, and storage – as well as impacting bloom times.

Spring-flowering bulbs are the classic fall-planted varieties. They take root in cool soil in fall and lie dormant through winter, before bursting forth between late winter and late spring. In most climates, spring bulbs should be planted in the fall once the temperatures begin to dip. The bulbs need a period of chill to set flowers, but should be planted before the ground freezes over. Popular spring-flowering bulbs include:

• Tulips
• Daffodils
• Hyacinths
• Crocus
• Snowdrops
• Grape hyacinths (muscari)
• Alliums (ornamental)

Summer-flowering bulbs are tender, heat-loving flowers. If you love big pots on a patio, these are your candy shop. They go into the ground in the spring, usually after the last frost. Many are not hardy in cold zones and will need lifting and storage in the fall; lilies are a partial exception, with lots of hardy types that overwinter in the ground. Popular summer-flowering bulbs include:

• Dahlias
• Gladioli
• Lilies (Asiatic and Oriental)
• Calla lilies
• Canna lilies
• Tuberous begonias

Fall-flowering bulbs add late-season sparkle to the garden. Plant these varieties in late summer, and you often get flowers the same year – instant gratification when borders are starting to fade:

• Autumn crocus (Crocus speciosus)
• Colchicum (often called “fall crocus,” though it isn’t a crocus)
• Sternbergia daffodils
• Nerine
• Hardy cyclamen

Together, these three groups make it possible to plan a garden that flowers almost year-round.

Choosing the Best Bulbs For Your Garden

Choose bulbs compatible with your USDA hardiness zone and plant them in accordance with local freeze dates. Spring bulbs need cold to bloom; in warm-winter areas, choose naturally low-chill types (paperwhites, some narcissus) or buy pre-chilled tulips and refrigerate others for 10 to 12 weeks before planting.

Light is key when choosing bulb varieties. Many spring bulbs thrive in full sun after nearby trees leaf out. Woodland favorites like snowdrops, scilla, and hardy cyclamen handle dappled shade nicely. If your beds are bright and open, tulips, alliums, and bearded iris will love it; for shadier corners, look to “woodland” bulbs and plant in generous clumps.

If you want bulbs to return and spread, choose reliable naturalizers such as daffodils, species tulips, crocus, and grape hyacinth, then read up on naturalizing flower bulbs so you mow and feed at the right times. Many showy hybrid tulips are best treated as annuals in warm or wet climates – stunning the first year, then replanted for peak impact.

Planning Your Bulb Display

For a border that never looks empty, try succession planting with bulbs – overlapping early, mid, and late varieties so you get more than a one-week wonder. Try pairing early crocus with midseason tulips and late alliums in the same bed for a rolling wave of color without replanting the space three times.

When planning your bulb garden, start by sketching what already blooms in your beds and fill the gaps. If your perennials peak in late June, tuck in early bulbs for spring interest, then let their fading foliage be hidden by the perennials as they rise.

If planting bulbs in containers, then short, stout varieties shine in pots – think miniature narcissus, Triumph or Greigii tulips, crocus, hyacinths, and compact alliums. Layer them for a long-running display using the bulb lasagna method in a roomy container with drainage.

A pro gardener tip is to plant bulbs in odd-numbered groups (3, 5, or 7) for a natural look – even numbers often appear too formal.

Buying Quality Bulbs

If you want the best flowers, look for the biggest, fattest tubers and bulbs. When you can, buy in person from trusted local suppliers so you can choose large, firm, weighty bulbs. Skip anything soft, mold-speckled, or nicked; a few types, such as anemone or ranunculus, naturally feel a bit papery or shriveled, but they shouldn’t be lightweight or hollow. If you’re ordering bulbs online, stick with trustworthy bulb suppliers and open boxes promptly to inspect.

Until planting time, keep bulbs in a cool, airy place and away from fruit to prevent sprouting.

When to Plant Bulbs

Spring-flowering bulbs: Plant in fall when nights cool and soil temperature drops toward the 50 to 55°F (10 to 13°C) range so bulbs can root before winter. In much of the US, that’s roughly September to November.

Tender summer-flowering bulbs: Plant in spring after your last frost date, once the soil has warmed. In cold zones, these bulbs won’t survive winter outdoors, so plan to lift and store them. Check your first frost date so you’re not racing freezing nights.

Fall-flowering bulbs: Plant in late summer to early autumn; many bloom the first year, which is always a thrill.

How late is too late?: You can plant until the ground is frozen. Frost mainly harms growth above ground; bulbs below ground are fine. If you can still drive a shovel into the soil, you can still plant. But, for best performance, aim to plant a few weeks before freeze-up so roots establish.

How to Plant Bulbs – Step by Step

Before planting bulbs, it’s important to choose the right spot where they will thrive. With the exception of shade-tolerant varieties, bulb flowers love the sun, so locate them where they will receive at least 6 hours each day. Follow these key planting steps to get the best out of your bulbs.

1. Prep the Soil

All bulbs require well-drained soil, with loam soil being the best option. In particular, they will struggle in heavy clay as they will go soggy and rot. If unsure, you can perform a quick check: dig a test hole and fill it with water; if it drains within an hour or two, you’re in the clear

You may be able to get the right consistency if you amend soil by blending in compost plus a little grit, so the basal plate isn’t sitting in water. In sandy soils, compost helps hold moisture just long enough for roots to drink. However, if your soil is really not compatible, then you’ll have more success planting bulbs in raised beds or containers.

Soil pH is also important – most bulbs are happy around 6.0 to 7.0. If you’re not sure where your soil sits, use a quick soil testing kit such as the MySoil Test Kit, available on Amazon, and amend the soil if it is too acidic or alkaline.

2. Dig Holes – and Plant

Loosen the soil to a full spade’s depth so roots can run, then measure the planting hole depth as two to three times the bulb’s height (see table below for accurate planting depth and spacing for your chosen varieties). A bulb planting tool, like the Edward Tools Bulb Planter on Amazon, makes it easy to consistently get the right planting hole size every time.

Set bulbs pointy end up and the flat basal plate down. Backfill, firm lightly, and water once to settle soil around the bulb.

3. Add Fertilizer – and Mulch

You’ll often read that bone meal should go into every bulb hole, but in most soils, it isn’t needed. It can help where soils are phosphorus-poor, but many beds already have adequate levels. Overdoing it can be wasteful and may even lure animals to dig. Instead, add a balanced fertilizer on the top of each bulb site, then lightly in early spring as shoots appear, and again just after flowering if growth seems weak. Using a specialist bulb fertilizer, such as Espoma Organic Bulb-Tone, available on Amazon, ensures they will get just the right nutrient mix.

After planting in beds, mulch lightly to insulate the soil and help prevent frost heave in colder climates.

Planting Depth and Spacing for Popular Bulbs

Here’s an at-a-glance guide to common bulb types, with recommended planting depth and spacing. Planting depth refers to the distance from the bottom of the bulb to the soil surface. Always check the supplied packet information for cultivar specifics.

If in doubt, follow the general bulb planting depth rule of two to three times the bulb’s height. If you do plant too shallow or too deep, don’t panic. You can lift and reset next year. In terms of plant spacing, remember bulbs will multiply, so leave a bit of wiggle room in naturalized areas.

Planting Bulbs in Containers

After the depths of winter, nothing says spring quite like containers filled with joyful bulb flowers. Planting a bulb lasagna will give you the best results, and essentially means succession planting in one pot.

Use a sturdy pot with a drainage hole. Start by adding a bit of potting mix with added grit for drainage, then layer early, mid, and late bulbs from deepest to shallowest so they bloom in sequence. Layer depth between bulbs should be about twice their height.

Water after planting to settle the soil, then focus on consistent moisture during active growth and bloom. Keep potted bulbs just moist through winter while they root. Container bulbs dry faster than bedded bulbs, so check more often. Topping winter pots with a thin mulch of leaf mold helps even out temperature swings without sealing in moisture. In mild climates, store containers in a shaded, cool spot over winter to mimic dormancy.

Naturalizing Bulbs in Lawns

In nature, bulbs don’t line up in straight rows – they scatter and drift. To copy that look, toss a handful of bulbs and plant them where they land. Good candidates for naturalizing bulbs include crocus, snowdrops, species tulips, muscari, and daffodils. In lawns, wait until the foliage dies back – often 4 to 6 weeks after bloom – before mowing, or next year’s display will fade. After the foliage fades, give naturalized areas a light feed in fall to keep displays strong year after year.

Bulb Aftercare

After blooming, don’t cut back foliage too soon. The leaves rely on photosynthesis to recharge the bulb after bloom. If you want it tidy, gently braid or gather, but let them yellow on their own. Alliums and some tulips look striking if you leave seedheads; daffodils are cleaner if you deadhead. If clumps bloom less over time, mark the spot, then lift and divide in late summer when dormant.

Once bulbs are established, occasional deep watering in dry spring will help bulbs recharge for next year’s bloom, while a light feed each spring as leaves emerge will help to maintain vigor.

Established bulbs can be lifted and transplanted when dormant – usually late summer for spring bloomers, or after frost kills foliage for summer types.

Lifting and Storing Tender Bulbs

In cooler areas, tender bulbs such as dahlias, gladioli, and canna lilies won’t survive a harsh winter in the ground, so it’s best to lift and store them before planting again in spring.

Lift gladiolus corms when leaves yellow, cure them in a warm, airy place (70 to 80°F / 21 to 27°C) for 2 to 3 weeks, then store cool and dry (35 to 45°F / 2 to 7°C). Check monthly and discard any that soften or mold.

Lift dahlias after the first frost blackens the foliage. Rinse or brush off soil, let the tubers dry, and store them in a frost-free, dark, ventilated space. Where winters are mild, some gardeners leave them in the ground with a thick mulch, but storage is safer in cold zones.

Canna lilies can be treated much the same way: lift the rhizomes once frost has cut back the leaves, dry for a few days, and keep them in slightly damp peat or sawdust in a cool (not cold) place until spring.

For other tender bulbs and tropical favorites – such as tuberous begonias, caladiums, and elephant ears – allow foliage to die back naturally, then lift the tubers or bulbs carefully. Brush off soil, dry for a week or so, and store in a frost-free location between 45 and 55°F (7 to 13°C). Replant them once the soil has fully warmed in spring and all frost risk has passed.

Storing Bulbs for Winter and Next Season

Not every bulb goes straight back into the ground. Tender types need winter storage, while hardy spares can be kept cool and dry until next season.

Tender bulbs – such as dahlias, gladiolus, and canna lilies – should be lifted and stored once frost cuts them back. Follow the same process outlined above.

Hardy spare bulbs – like tulips, daffodils, or hyacinths that haven’t been planted – can be kept cool and dry until next season. The goal is to prevent sprouting or rot rather than encourage long-term dormancy.

Store all bulbs in a dark, ventilated space at roughly 40 to 50°F (4 to 10°C). Use mesh trays, paper bags, or shallow crates so air circulates. These Eslite 34L Large Plastic Folding Storage Crates on Amazon are collapsible when not in use.

Label varieties and note their bloom season before storage, so replanting is effortless next year. Check bulbs occasionally and remove any that feel soft or show mold. Keep them well away from ripening fruit, as ethylene gas shortens bulb life.

Forcing Bulbs Indoors

When winter feels long, forcing bulbs indoors brings a welcome burst of color. Choose bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocus, or amaryllis.

Chill hardy types (tulips, daffodils, hyacinths) for 10 to 16 weeks at 35 to 45°F (2 to 7°C), then move them into warmth and light to trigger flowering. Paperwhites and amaryllis skip the chill entirely and can be started right away.

A handy trick to keep paperwhites compact is to water them with a mild alcohol solution once stems are 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) tall.

Pest Proofing

Hungry critters such as squirrels, voles, and deer, love to eat bulbs, so protective measures are often necessary. Physical barriers work best. Lay chicken wire or hardware cloth over freshly planted beds and pin it down; remove in spring as growth pops through. In areas vulnerable to gophers, moles, and voles, use root guard baskets, like these Digger’s 1-Quart Root Guard Speed Baskets on Amazon. Sprinkling crushed gravel or sharp grit around bulb holes can also discourage digging.

Another option is to choose naturally squirrel or deer-resistant bulbs – daffodils and many alliums are usually left alone – and know that tulips and crocus are more often targeted.

Animal-based fertilizers, including mixes with bone meal, can attract diggers, so store them securely.

Frequently Asked Questions

Dahlias are beautiful late-season flowers that reward the patient gardener with striking, swoonworthy blooms. Many enthusiasts are in a state of anticipation for much of summer, waiting to enjoy those delectable dahlia displays. But once the show’s over, we’ll then be wondering what to do with our dahlias in the fall. At this point, dahlia care inevitably hinges around a single question regarding tubers for the blooms we have admired and fervently wish to keep – to lift or not to lift?

Do you confidently know what to do with dahlias after flowering? They are perennials in warmer climates and annuals elsewhere. If you live where dahlias are not hardy but want to enjoy them again next year, you’ll need to lift and store the tubers. The decision to lift or not to lift is important for maintaining healthy, flowering dahlias. If you’re new to growing them, this decision can be tough. So here’s how to make that one big decision that can guarantee your dahlias flourish next year.

Deciding what to do with dahlias in the fall is a personal choice – but this article will help you make an informed one. It covers the inside scoop on whether lifting is best for your tubers, depending on your growing zone and conditions – plus, how best to store your dahlias for winter.

What Dahlias Need in Fall

With the best dahlia care, your plants are capable of blooming well into fall. Exactly when they start and stop blooming will depend on variety, growing zone, and local weather. While they are flowering, there are a few things to check before you have to worry about the question of lifting tubers. You shouldn’t lift tubers while your dahlias are still blooming – but there are a few things to check first. Whether you’ll be lifting the tubers or not, they can benefit from some fall care while they are still flowering.

While plants are blooming, maintain health by removing lower leaves on stems to improve airflow and protect against mildew, especially if you are having a damp autumn. You may also need to use a fungicide on leaves that show any signs of mildew. It’s also crucial that you keep deadheading dahlia blooms for as long as you can, to get as many flowers as possible from each plant. Snip just above a leaf node using a part of snips or shears like Scotts' Straight Tip Floral Shears from Walmart.

However, after the first frost, you can cut back the stalks and think about next steps for best dahlia care in the fall. Deciding what to do with dahlias after flowering will depend on whether you are longing to see more from these particular varieties. If you only want to treat dahlias as annuals, you don’t have to do anything except cut back the foliage in fall. But if you want to enjoy your dahlias again, this is the point where you will mull over the need for lifting tubers for winter storage.

To best answer this question, it primarily depends on where you live. In cooler climates where dahlias aren’t hardy, lifting is a popular option if you want to keep your favorites for next year. The idea is to lift and remove the tubers, store them safely for winter, and replant them in spring.

Why Not Leave Tubers in Ground?

Tubers are fleshy structures that grow underground for the purpose of storing nutrients and energy. It’s important to leave foliage on dahlias until after the first frost, or until it dies back. This is because the leaves are actively taking energy from the sun and storing it in the tubers. Although it’s not quite the same thing, tubers are also sometimes referred to as bulbs.

Dahlias need healthy tubers to grow from the following spring. At this time of year, you may already be thinking about protecting plants from fall frost. If you leave the tubers in the ground, you run the risk of losing them to the extremes of cold in your area, moisture in the ground, and any potential tuber rots that might result. Too much damage to the tubers will ruin any chance of new growth next year. You can get a good sense of moisture (and other things) by doing a soil test using a meter like the Raintrip 4-in-1 Soil Meter from Amazon.

Knowing what to do with dahlia bulbs in the fall depends mostly on your climate and growing zone. For some gardeners, this distinction is not perfectly clear, and there may be other factors to consider, like soil type. Your soil meter should also be able to give you a good read on your soil, to help you determine the degree of risk.

When it’s Safe to Leave Tubers

Allowing for variations based on specific varieties, dahlias are usually hardy in USDA zones 8-11, so if you are in these areas, you can technically keep your tubers in the ground. In these zones, the tubers should be able to survive winter and grow again in spring. In other words, they are perennial flowering plants in these zones.

Even in warmer zones, however, there are some risks to leaving bulbs in the ground. You need to make sure your soil drains well, as excess moisture in the ground can cause the tubers to rot. It’s also a good idea to mulch the ground above your dahlias for extra protection. The Gardening Know How Team recommends Back To The Roots Organic Mulch from Amazon, for its extensive blend of soil-friendly benefits. This is an especially important part of preparing your garden for winter if you’re expecting an unusually cold period.

It’s also important to remember that the soil will get colder in winter in containers or raised beds. If you grow your dahlias this way, you should definitely consider lifting and storing the tubers – or at least adding extra protection in winter.

When it’s Better to Lift

To enjoy flowers from the same plants next year, you must lift and store dahlia tubers if you live in USDA zones 7 and colder. If you leave them in the ground, it’s very likely they will be damaged by the cold and won’t survive the winter. Worrying about how to store dahlias for winter is a better worry than leaving them outside of your control and vulnerable to punishing weather extremes.

You also might want to consider lifting your dahlias for winter storage if you’re on the edge of the necessary hardiness zones, or if you live in a warmer zone but your soil is heavy or tends to get soggy in winter. In these cases, if you try leaving the tubers in the ground, you run the risk of cold or moisture damage.

Even in zones that are plenty warm, it’s worth lifting dahlia tubers if you have good storage options. Put it this way – tubers left in the ground, no matter where, are at the mercy of the weather, the soil, and any pathogens. Proper storage allows you greater control over the health of your dahlias and their ability to bloom again.

What to Remember if You Lift

Lifting and storing dahlias is a great way to keep plants for next year, but it has to be done right. Silly mistakes can ruin your tubers and waste your efforts. Here are my expert tips for successful removal and winter storage of dahlia tubers:

• The best time to dig up dahlias is after the first hard frost, when the leaves have died or blackened. Don’t wait until the ground is frozen.
• Cut back the foliage and stalks, using a sharp blade like this great-value Secateurs Set from Spear & Jackson, available at Amazon. Wait a week or two to dig up the tubers. This gives them a chance to develop eyes, which are vital for new growth later. It’s important to get them out of the ground before a freeze, though, so keep a watchful eye on the weather.
• Use a garden fork and spade to carefully dig around and lift tubers. Take care to avoid piercing them, then leave them to dry in the sun.
• Gently brush off dirt, divide tuber clumps, and dispose of any tubers that show rot. Place them in a sheltered, dry spot to cure for a few days.
• Store your dahlia tubers between 40 and 50°F (4-10°C). The ThermoPro TP50 Hygrometer, available at Amazon, is a user-friendly way of tracking temperature and humidity changes at a glance while under cover.
• Storing dahlia tubers in paper bags is one option. You can also wrap them in newspaper or store them in sawdust or vermiculite, such as Back to the Roots Organic Vermiculite, available at Amazon.
• Check on your tubers throughout winter. They should not get too dry, but they should also not get moist enough to start rotting.

Your stored dahlia tubers will be ready to go back in the ground in spring next year after the last frost and when the soil has warmed. Alternatively, you can place your dahlias in pots in spring. With good care, you should be able to enjoy your dahlias for years to come. Happy lifting!

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Forcing hyacinths for Christmas is a fun way to introduce unique flowers into your holiday celebrations. Because they are spring flowers, hyacinths bring a cheerfulness to the cold, short days of winter.

Planting hyacinths to get them to bloom in winter isn’t difficult, but it takes some specialized knowledge. With some careful planning undertaken in autumn, you can have gorgeous, fragrant blooms for the holidays.

Here, we explain why you should consider doing it, steps for forcing bulbs successfully by Christmas, and common mistakes to avoid.

Why Grow Hyacinths for Christmas?

Forcing hyacinths indoors builds on a long tradition of coaxing spring bulbs to flower out of season. Spring flowers blooming in winter bring cheer to cold winter days indoors. Hyacinths also have a sweet smell that brings a sense of warmer days to the chilliest time of year.

Forcing bulbs in winter gives you a unique type of décor for the holidays. Even if you get the timing wrong, you’ll be able to enjoy spring flowers in December or for the New Year. Forcing hyacinths is an easy and fun activity for kids, as well, and these spring blooms make great gifts.

Choosing and Preparing Hyacinth Bulbs

Timing is essential for Christmas hyacinth bulbs. Spring bulbs only bloom after they have experienced a certain amount of time in cold temperatures. This is why we plant bulbs in the fall for a gorgeous spring garden next year. You can force a bulb to flower by mimicking this chill period. They then need a period of about three weeks of warmer temperatures and light.

To prepare hyacinth bulbs with a chill period, simply put them in a brown paper bag in your refrigerator crisper. Alternatively, you can buy pre-chilled bulbs. If you’ll be preparing your own, choose large, firm bulbs and start chilling them 13 to 15 weeks before Christmas.

This timing accounts for the chill period and warm period for most hyacinths. Different varieties have different timing needs. If you’re running out of time, try ‘Anna Marie,’ a variety that only needs eight chill weeks. Of course, you can also use pre-chilled bulbs if you have just a few weeks before Christmas to force them to bloom.

How to Force Bulbs for Christmas Blooms

Whether you chilled the bulbs yourself or bought pre-chilled bulbs, the next step is setting them up to grow roots and to bloom. There are two setups to choose from: soil and water.

To force in soil, choose a sturdy pot or wide dish with drainage holes and fill it partially with high quality potting mix. Don’t use ordinary garden soil, which is too heavy and will retain too much water. You can make your own DIY potting mix or purchase some like Miracle-Gro indoor potting mix from Amazon.

Place the bulbs in the container nose (pointy side) up. The bulbs’ necks should be level with the edge of the container. Add a little more soil or some pebbles around the bulbs. The necks and noses of the bulbs should remain exposed.

To force bulbs in water, choose a specially designed bulb forcing vase or use any glass or vase of the appropriate shape and size. This gorgeous handmade blown glass bulb forcing vase is available from East Fork and makes a great gift for friends (or yourself!). Looking to have forced hyacinth bulbs all over your house? This multi-pack of bulb vases from Amazon is a great option. Support forced plants with bamboo skewers if they get too leggy.

No matter the container you choose, you should be able to set the bulb on the top of the vase so that the nose and neck stay out of the water. Fill the vase or glass with water and place the bulb point up so that only the base and roots of the bulb are in the water.

Caring for Indoor Hyacinths

Ease your bulbs gently into warmth and sunshine. Start them in a cool location with no direct light and move them closer to light and warmth over the course of a couple of weeks. For bulbs in soil, water regularly so that they stay moist but not soggy. For bulbs in water, change out the water when it gets cloudy or add water as needed to keep the roots wet.

Within a few weeks, you should have flowers. Keep watering as they bloom. Once the flowers fade, the foliage will start to yellow and die. You can either throw out the bulbs or plant them in the garden after winter forcing. They might not bloom again until the following year.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Forcing bulbs is generally easy, but there are some common mistakes that can prevent you from getting the best outcome.

• Don’t skimp on the chill period. You might get leaves but no flowers. If this happens, put the bulbs back in a cool, dark place for a few days and try again.
• Don’t let the bulbs get too wet or they’ll rot. For water-forced bulbs, the water level should be just at the base of the bulb. For soil-forced bulbs, ensure the container will drain excess water.
• If you are chilling bulbs in the refrigerator, keep away from fruit. Fruit gives off ethylene gas, which inhibits flower development.
• Avoid skin irritation from handling hyacinth bulbs by wearing gloves. Not everyone is sensitive, but touching hyacinths can cause a mild skin rash.
• It’s easy to wait too long if you’re hoping to get flowers for Christmas. If this happens, buy pre-chilled bulbs.

Hyacinths make a unique and cheerful addition to holiday decorations. Start planning now for successfully forcing bulbs by Christmas.

If you’re dreaming of a spring garden that bursts with color, look no further than the bulb trifle – a fresh twist on the classic bulb lasagna. Much like the dessert that inspired its name, this planting technique is all about layering bulbs in containers so they bloom in succession, giving you continuous blooms throughout the season.

Why call it a trifle instead of a lasagna? Because it’s lighter, brighter, and more springlike, plus it gives us the chance to channel our inner Rachel Green. Her infamous trifle from Friends has launched thousands of memes over the years thanks to its unexpected layer of ‘beef sauteed with peas and onions’, but worry not; ours is a meat-free gardening method.

Just as Rachel quite literally whipped up her concoction of bananas, jam, ladyfingers, and beef in the fall (Oh, remember that Thanksgiving when Rachel screwed up the trifle?), then, now is the time to set to work on your own fuss-free bulb trifle. Just be sure to read the steps before you get started, to avoid any awkward mishaps…

What You Will Need for a Bulb Trifle

A bulb trifle takes a little planning. After all, the bulbs you choose will largely depend on your USDA Hardiness Zones, since bloom timing and winter survival vary across the country.

As a general rule of thumb, though, you will need:

• A selection of bulbs; typically, people mix up snowdrops, tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocuses, alliums, dwarf irises, and grape hyacinths for this particular concoction. You can shop around or get a bulb mix of a good selection of colorful blooms that provide visual interest from March til June
  
• A bag of multipurpose, peat-free compost (something like R&M Organics Premium Organic Compost from Amazon should work across USDA Zones 3-8)
  
• A large plant pot or container with holes in the bottom, although a garden border will work just as well in a pinch. Personally, we think it's a good excuse to treat ourselves to this Classic Home & Garden Whiskey Barrel Planter from Amazon!
  
• Old, broken pots or stones for drainage
  
• Bulb fertilizer, such as Espoma Organic Bulb-Tone from Amazon, to ensure maximum flowers.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Once you have everything you need to hand, it’s easy enough to make your own bulb trifle that keeps on serving up spring flowers from the first thaw to late spring…

1. Choose Your Container

Much like Joey with his Thanksgiving pants, bulbs need room to breathe. If you’re going to make a bulb trifle, then, be sure to use a pot that’s at least 12-14 inches deep – and, while this is a popular container garden method, you could also opt for a roomier bed, too.

2. Add Drainage

A bulb trifle hates a soggy bottom, so add gravel or broken pottery to pots to keep them dry.

Otherwise, borders will need to be prepped by adding plenty of coarse organic matter like compost or well-rotted manure into the soil – or you could even create a raised bed for the occasion (and should, if your yard is made up of clay soil).

3. Start Layering

You’ll want to place the largest and latest flowering of your bulbs at the bottom of your pot or border; think daffodils and tulips. Aim to get them 6-8 inches deep and keep the pointy ends up, so they know which way to grow, and cover with compost.

4. The Middle

Here’s where you skip the beef; the middle of your bulb trifle should instead be dedicated to your midseason bloomers. Usually, alliums and tulips tend to lurk in the middle of your springtime concoction, sitting at around 4-6 inches deep. Tuck them in with a layer of compost.

5. The Top Layer

Your earliest bloomers should sit on top of your bulb lasagne, which means that the ‘whipped cream’ of this planting method is your crocuses, grape hyacinths, snowdrops, glory of the snow, and dwarf irises.

6. Cover and Water

Once all of the layers have been completed in your bulb trifle, take care to backfill it with soil and water it well. Then, mark your pot so you don’t disturb it later (and take care to protect it from hungry critters who might fancy digging around for a snack).

All that’s left to do with your bulb trifle? Sit back and channel some serious Monica-level patience; you’ll be rewarded when all of those gorgeous flowers emerge in waves after the worst of the bleak midwinter has been and gone.

Fall is the best time to plant spring-flowering bulbs such as daffodils, tulips, and hyacinths. Spring bulbs can be used in lots of different ways – from borders edged with tulips, to naturalized clumps of daffodils, and crocuses blooming across the lawn.

Planting bulbs in containers is a simple way to dress up your porch or patio with spring flowers. The simplest strategy is to just plant bulbs in the containers and wait for spring. However, if you don't want to look at bare soil, it's a great opportunity to get creative and top your containers with other flowers.

Adding topper plants is essentially a type of companion planting for flowers. A good companion plant should thrive in the same conditions as the bulbs and avoid being overly vigorous or invasive. If they bloom at the same time, their colors and growth habits should complement each other. Many annual flowers make excellent partners for spring-flowering bulbs. Here’s our guide to topping potted bulbs, plus some of our favorite picks.

Companion Planting Bulbs in Pots

There’s nothing wrong with choosing a single bulb type for a container, or even a mix of colors of one type of flower. On the other hand, there are some benefits to adding toppers. Additional flowers, if chosen wisely, can give you more continuous seasonal color in containers. Toppers also allow you to create more interesting containers with a mix of flower colors, sizes, and textures. They also help disguise fading bulb foliage after the blooms are done.

There are a couple of strategies for topping potted bulbs. You can plant a fall annual, like pansies, on top of the bulbs now for fall color. You can also add spring and summer annuals next year to create continuous flowers or a mix of bulbs and annuals in one pot. Just be sure you combine flowers that have similar growing needs – from sun to soil type and water.

To maximize flowering, add a low-nitrogen bulb fertilizer, such as Espoma Organic Bulb-Tone, available from Amazon, at the time of planting, and again after flowering. In spring, you can feed both bulbs and topper plants at once with a bloom-booster formula, like Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Bloom Booster.

Also, remember that bulbs in pots are more exposed to cold than those in the ground. In colder regions, you may need to insulate or move containers to protect the bulbs.

1. Pansies or Violas

All pansies (Viola x wittrockiana) are types of violas, but not all violas are pansies. Both, however, make excellent companions for potted bulbs. They grow 6 to 10 inches (15 to 25 cm) tall and come in a variety of pretty colors. Violas and pansies grow best in the cooler weather of spring and fall. Plant them on top of bulbs in fall and again in spring for shoulder season color.

As your spring bulbs bloom, they’ll mingle with the pansies or violas. These petite annuals will look best with taller bulbs, like daffodils or tulips. They also look nice with hyacinths, but will be a closer height match.

Get fast color with this Expert Gardener Multicolor Blotch Pansy 6-Pack from Walmart.

2. Calendula

Calendula (Calendula officinalis), often called pot marigold, grows as an annual in cool climates. It’s easy to grow and has bright, cheerful, daisy-like flowers, typically in shades of orange and yellow. In a container with bulbs, it’ll provide blooms from spring right through fall.

Calendula can grow 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm) tall, so pair them with taller bulbs for a pretty mix of color and flower shapes. Good companions include daffodils, tulips, and alliums.

Sweet Needs Calendula ‘Pacific Beauty Mix’ is a top-rated seed mix from Amazon that offers great value for money.

3. Sweet Alyssum

Sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima) is an annual that thrives in full sun to partial shade and produces clusters of fragrant, tiny flowers. They grow low and are often used as edges and borders or as “spill” plants in containers. Sweet alyssum tolerates some cold and can be used in pots in the fall in warmer climates and in the spring everywhere.

Pair sweet alyssum with potted bulbs for a pretty and fragrant mix of flowers. You can grow them around the edge of the pot and allow them to spill over, or plant them throughout, so they fill in the spaces between tulips, hyacinths, daffodils, and other bulbs. Because sweet alyssum tolerates colder weather and grows low, you can mix it with very early, short bulbs, like crocus or snowdrop.

This Seed Needs Heirloom Alyssum Flower Seed Packet Collection, from Amazon, contains four stunning varieties.

4. Marigolds

Marigolds (Tagetes spp.) are great, easy annuals to grow in beds, along borders, and in containers. They bloom profusely throughout the summer and into the fall. If you want an annual that takes over once spring bulbs fade, marigolds are a reliable choice.

Add marigolds to a pot of daffodils, hyacinths, or tulips for a little spring overlap and a mix of colors. Once the bulbs are done blooming, the marigolds will keep the pots full of color and hide the bulbs’ foliage.

Marigolds are quick and easy to grow from seed – try this Organo Republic Non-GMO Heirloom Marigold Seed Mix from Amazon.

5. Forget-Me-Nots

Forget-me-nots (Myosotis sylvatica) are delicate woodland flowers that grow best in partial shade.

Technically a perennial, many people grow it as an annual or biennial. Forget-me-nots make good groundcovers, growing only about 5 inches (13 cm) tall, and bloom with a profusion of small, blue spring and summer flowers.

Set forget-me-nots against taller flowering bulbs in a container for a good contrast. For example, grow tulips with forget-me-nots around and between the bulbs. The taller, sun-loving tulips provide some shade for the shorter flowers, and the difference in flower sizes provides a nice contrast.

Green Promise Farms' Sea Heart Forget Me Not from Walmart is a particularly lovely variety with two-toned pink and blue flowers with green and white foliage

6. More Bulbs

Another option for variety is to layer different types of bulbs in one pot. Gardeners often use the “lasagna method,” layering bulbs by size for staggered blooms.

Start with a layer of soil in the container, followed by your largest bulbs (allium or tulips), more soil, medium bulbs (daffodils, hyacinths), and finally more soil and your smallest bulbs (crocus, snowdrops).

A carefully crafted bulb lasagna will give you continuous blooms from early spring into summer as one flower follows the next. You’ll also get some mixing and overlap.

Whether you add annual toppers or layer more bulbs, these combinations will give you colorful, long-lasting displays for your patio or garden.

Amaryllis is a popular flowering plant during the winter holidays. It is easy to grow the first time around, and it produces large, trumpet-shaped blooms that bring plenty of "oohs" and "ahhs" from visitors. But the prospect of forcing a second bloom cycle brings a cold chill to many who contemplate the task. But it is possible to keep your Amaryllis blooming year after year.

I think I have finally mastered the process of reblooming an Amaryllis. The main issue is keeping an eye on the calendar so you know when to move it outdoors, when to bring it back inside for dormancy, and when to wake it up again. I have found, too, that fertilizing the bulb while it is outside for the summer is important. I tend to forget fertilizing plants, so the first time I attempted to rebloom an Amaryllis, it didn’t get any fertilizer, and I didn’t get a second bloom.

I have several now that I put through the paces each summer, and last year, for example, four out of five rebloomed. One even flowered in December and again in July!

My Tips To Restore Your Amaryllis Flowers

My first tip for growing Amaryllis is to buy a couple new plants after Christmas when they are 50 to 75 percent off. Those have usually started growing in the box, so pick the ones that aren’t completely covered by cardboard and are getting light.

Since I have several by summertime, I plant Amaryllis outdoors to see if it will come up the next spring. Those who live in USDA zones 8 and above can successfully grow an Amaryllis in the ground for a show each spring.

I have been experimenting with the process for several years now, and this is how to get your Amaryllis to bloom again.

What to Do With Amaryllis After Flowering

Once the blooms have faded on your Amaryllis, cut the blooms off so it does not go to seed (which will hinder bulb regeneration). Do not remove the rest of the stalk because as long as it is green it will help with photosynthesis. Move the pot to a sunny window and continue to water when the top of the soil feels dry. The idea is to keep it going until it warms up outside (no freezes expected) and you can move it out. It will continue to produce leaves indoors. If the leaves fade and turn yellow, do not worry. Just pull or clip them off and new ones will grow.

When all chances of a freeze are gone, move it outside to a sunny patio. To prevent foliage burn, start out in a partly shady area first, then gradually increase the light to full sun by the end of the week. If the foliage starts showing white spots, move it back to a shadier spot for another week.

Keep it watered as the soil dries, and remember, in warmer climates, you will need to water containers more often outside than when it was inside. Start fertilizing your Amaryllis, too. I add slow release, balanced fertilizer granules such as 10-10-10 to the container, following the package directions for how much and how often. I generally apply it about two times during the summer but it depends on how many months the Amaryllis is outside before you bring it back indoors. Instead of slow release, you also can use an all purpose houseplant fertilizer every month according to directions. You can find a good 10-10-10 fertilizer on Amazon or your local garden center.

Keep watering until it is time to bring the Amaryllis inside for a dormancy period if you want to force it to bloom during winter. In my USDA zone 6 garden, I bring it indoors toward the end of August to overwinter the Amaryllis. That gives it about a 12-week dormancy period and another 4 to 6 weeks to bloom. Be sure you bring it in before the first frost, though, because it will not survive a freeze.

To force dormancy, quit watering a few days before you bring it inside so it isn’t wet. Bring it indoors and store it in a dry, warm, dark place such as a closet. Plan on leaving it there for 10 to 12 weeks, and mark your calendar so you don’t forget the bulb. It will take another 4 to 6 weeks after that before it blooms so figure that in if you want it to bloom by December. I am just as happy with January flowering as it brightens up a dreary time of winter.

What to Do With Amaryllis During Dormancy

While the Amaryllis bulb is stored, do not water the pot. (I have read that if storage space is an issue, you can remove the bulb from the pot, store it, then repot the Amaryllis with a good soil when you bring it out.) Find a unique an beautiful pot for your Amaryllis from Terrain.

Check the pot every few weeks to remove any foliage that has died back. That is all you need to do until the 12 weeks are up. If you notice new growth before 12 weeks have passed, go ahead and bring it out.

Bringing it Back to Flower

To initiate blooms, after 12 weeks, bring the potted Amaryllis back into the light and start watering again. Give it as much light as possible, such as in a south-facing window. When the bloom stalk emerges, you can move it to a cooler location so the flowers will last longer.

I have noticed with the first bloom cycle after purchasing a bulb, the flower stalk comes up first, then the leaves. However, when reblooming an Amaryllis, just the opposite occurs. The leaves come up first, then the bloom stalks. So do not be alarmed if you see leaves first. The stalk and leaves also may come up at the same time.

You can add fertilizer after bringing it out of storage, but I have not done so, and they have been blooming.

If it doesn’t flower and you want to try again next summer, you can use a different fertilizer or add it more often. Also, be sure it is getting full sun and adequate water during its summer outdoors.

Keeping This Going Year After Year

You can continue the cycle of moving your Amaryllis in and out for years. They don’t mind being a little rootbound, so don’t be in a hurry to repot to a larger container. The bulbs will multiply, though, so when that happens, you may need a larger container. It is best to repot after a dormancy period.

When it is necessary to repot, use a commercial potting soil, with some added perlite to help drainage. Carefully remove the bulb and shake off excess soil. Add potting soil to the bottom of the new container and add the bulb, making sure the top of the bulb will be 20 to 30 percent above the soil line. Fill in with potting soil and water well.

I remember my shock when I learned that spring-flowering bulbs were planted in fall. I had grown up in central Alaska, where spring was more a philosophical concept than a season. But once I learned more about the magical world of bulbs, it all made perfect sense.

Each papery bulb contains everything a plant needs – roots, stems, leaves, and of course, flowers. Given sufficient time in sun-warmed soil, you’ll be greeted by color, fragrance, and the sense that spring has truly arrived.

Most people think of daffodils and tulips when they hear “spring-flowering bulbs,” but the list is much longer. Some are tiny, others bigger than eggs, and all of them can transform a bleak yard into a dazzling display. (Side note: yes, there are “fall-flowering bulbs” too, planted in spring for autumn blooms – but that’s another story.)

My Top Spring-Blooming Bulbs

Fall is a season of endings, and it can be a little depressing as the birds fly south, and the last petals fall off the roses. That’s why the task of planting spring bulbs couldn’t come at a better time. Just begin to poke around in garden stores for bulbs, and you will remember there is a joyous spring display just around the corner.

What bulbs to plant? It’s a difficult choice, as there are many exciting species. You’ll also find hundreds of cultivars when it comes to popular species like tulips, hyacinths, and daffodils.

When planting bulbs, add some bulb fertilizer to the planting hole to ensure you get the best flowers. Espoma Organic Bulb-Tone Fertilizer, available on Amazon, is ideal. A bulb planting tool, like this one from Amazon, is inexpensive and will make it easy to create the perfect-sized hole for your bulbs.

Here are 7 of my personal favorite bulbs for spring flowers. All need planting in a sunny location and well-draining soil.

1. Daffodils

Everybody’s favorite spring flower! Green stems poke up in early spring, often the first of the pack, opening into bright yellow blooms. I love the traditional daffodils (Narcissus spp.) – a rim of yellow petals surrounding a yellow or orange cup. But newer cultivars are eye-catching and dramatic. You can find white/yellow flowers, pink on pink, double daffodils that look like pom-poms, fragrant daffodils, and more. Suitable for USDA zones 3-8.

My top pick: Check out ‘Suncatcher,’ offering fully double blooms in bright yellow with ruffles of orange between the petals and frilly peachy-orange centers.

2. Tulips

Species tulips (Tulipa spp.) are hardy and beautiful, but the tulip story goes far beyond that. Today, there are thousands of cultivars in every color, shape, and size. All tulips flower in spring, but the bloom month can be March, April, or May – and putting some early bloomers, middle bloomers, and late bloomers into your beds means beauty from early spring straight through ‘til summer. Suitable for USDA zones 3-8.

My top pick: Consider the ‘Amazing Parrot’ tulip cultivar. The flowers are big as your palm, the petals a deep pink, melding into orange near the edges. The centers of the blooms are tinged with orange as well.

3. Ranunculus

I love all my bulb flowers, but everyone has a favorite. Mine is ranunculus. The blossoms are showy and romantic, with layers and layers of petals in brilliant colors, including hues of yellow, pink, orange, red, purple, and white. As cut flowers, they are resilient and can last weeks. Suitable for USDA zones 7-11.

My top pick: Take a look at ‘Chamallow.’ This cultivar is extremely lovely, with pale pink and peach petals that open to reveal a soft green center.

4. Allium

The key to an elegant and exciting spring garden is variety – different colors and different flower shapes. That’s where allium shines. Each flower head is globe-shaped, comprised of tightly packed florets in purple or white, while stems can be up to 4 feet (1.3m) tall. Pollinators like butterflies and bees are super-fans, and you will be too. Suitable for USDA zones 4-10.

My top pick: The allium cultivar ‘Globemaster' is worth a second look with royal purple flowers as big as heads of cabbage.

5. Crocus

Small, sweet, and simple, crocus flowers are the early birds of the spring bulb plants. Their bright little faces emerge even before winter is singing its last song. Mine are deep purple, and make quite an impact in a bare garden, but you can get them in white and yellow too. You might mistake their tall, thin leaves for grass. Crocuses naturalize easily and return year after year. Suitable for USDA zones 3-8.

My top pick: Do you want something different in a crocus? Plant ‘Tricolor Crocus’. Each bloom has separate bands of violet, white, and gold.

6. Peony

Peonies (Paeonia spp.) aren’t technically bulbs – they grow from tuberous roots – but many gardeners tuck them into the same category. Planting peonies requires a certain amount of patience since you can’t cut any flowers for the first three years. But the wait is worth it since fragrant peonies make wonderful vase flowers. Their large, luscious blooms attract bees and other pollinators, too. Suitable for USDA 3-9.

My top pick: For a cultivar that captures all the romance and elegance of the species, you can’t do better than ‘Sarah Bernhardt’, an extremely popular variety with huge, fluffy, double blossoms in a soft and delicate pink.

7. Hyacinth

With an unforgettable and powerful fragrance, hyacinths (Hyacinthus orientalis) light up the spring garden with their brilliant spikes of bright flowers. It’s easy to grow hyacinth, but it may be harder to choose a color, since modern cultivars have expanded the original blue shade options into a rainbow of colors, from lilac to apricot to blood red. Suitable for USDA zones 4-8.

My top pick: For something out of the ordinary, try the cultivar ‘Miss Saigon’. The hyacinth flowers are a royal purple, with starry violet florets.

With the sounds of fall crunching and crisping around the edges of your garden, it’s hard not to feel wistful, even as you gaze at the ornamental splashes of color spilling over from one season to the next. While autumnal colors can add some seasonal brilliance, it’s understandable to feel at a loose end, wondering what to do next in your garden. Hopefully, you can occupy yourself with targeted pruning, yard tidyups and shed clearouts – but as things start to wind down, why not do something truly life affirming and invigorating – and plant some spring bulbs?

There are plenty of gorgeous bulbs to plant in September, and planting now is great for the health and development of several key spring bloomers. Starting your spring bulb garden early means you can take advantage of a mass of tempting choices via reputable bulb retailers – plus, you’ll have the satisfaction of knowing you’ve started your new year gardening campaign in earnest, in a relaxed and optimistic way. So have fun planting some of these gorgeous spring flowering bulbs while you have plenty of time on your side – and give yourself something to really look forward to in the new year!

Best Spring Bulbs to Plant in September

Selecting the best bulbs to plant in September will depend on a combination of factors, including an awareness of your USDA region and an understanding of your garden soil, as well as bulb preferences. Indeed, these factors will have some bearing on bulb choices – although hopefully you’ll still have plenty of options!

To help when adding bulbs to your flower garden for spring, make sure you have first checked your soil and made any adjustments necessary to nourish and prepare the earth. Test the soil using a meter like the Raintrip 4-in-1 Meter from Amazon, which tests for pH, nutrient loads and moisture. Condition the planting site with a treatment like Miracle-Gro’s Performance Organics All-Purpose In-Ground soil amendment from Walmart.

Getting on top of this ahead of planting and growing will mean bulbs develop in optimum condition. Then you can get stuck in with planting some of these delightful beauties in readiness for spring.

1. Muscari

These little purple-blue beauties (also known as grape hyacinth) have a relatively broad planting window, but early planting is highly beneficial for establishing healthy roots. As well as being some of the best flower bulbs to plant in September, the bulbs themselves are generally small in size, so you can get away with planting them a few inches deep. It’s best to plant groups of bulbs so each one has a few inches of surrounding space. Muscari bulbs also thrive in containers – just ensure they are well draining and kept in sun or partial shade.

With their tightly packed clusters of grape-shaped blooms, I often call them my little Marge Simpsons, as the flowers remind me of the blue-rinse hairdo associated with Matt Groening’s well-loved matriarch. These charming little spring ornamentals are highly likely to naturalize in your garden, returning yearly in new corners of your garden. Grab Muscari ‘Baby’s Breath’ from Amazon in bundles of 50 bulbs. You can also get unusual new colors, like white ‘Album’ and yellow ‘Golden Fragrance’.

2. Alliums

From delicate fluffy dwarf purple varieties like ‘Millenium’ to audacious mammoths like ‘White Giant’, there’s something fundamentally spectacular about a spring border blessed with a generous smattering of flowering alliums. Ornamental onions can flower from spring to early summer, but as long as you focus on the earliest flowering allium varieties, these are some of the most glorious spring bulbs to plant in September.

Ideal for planting in USDA zones 4-10, these sweeping structural epics thrive in full sun and well-draining, slightly acidic soil, so bear this in mind when planting these delightful hardy perennials. Gorgeous allium bulbs to start in September include ‘Globemaster’, ‘Giganteum’, ‘Christophii’ and ‘Purple Sensation’ alliums. You can buy some exquisite and richly varied allium bulb varieties at Burpee.

3. Crocus

Surely one of the most life-affirming sights of spring, the humble crocus reassures us that the new gardening year (and all its flowering joys) is just beginning. Obviously, you need to focus on spring-flowering crocus varieties, as you can also get autumn-flowering crocus bulbs. Make sure the planting holes are around 6 inches (15cm) deep and 4 inches (10cm) apart, although you can expect these perennial charmers to naturalize and return in quiet new corners of your yard.

Bulbs benefit from around 15 weeks of chilling, allowing them to fully benefit from the cold months ahead of a rich early spring medley. Plant in sweeps along the edges of lawns and garden beds, and feel free to mix up your varieties for a cacophony of uplifting color. One of the most charming crocus varieties for September planting is Crocus ‘Saffron’, available from Walmart, with its lush lavender petals and golden stamens.

4. Daffodil (Narcissus )

When trying to decide which bulbs to plant in September, one of the first to spring to mind (pun not intended) will surely be the daffodil. The subject of one of William Wordsworth’s most memorable lines, thoughts of spring are intertwined with bobbing heads of gentle, unassuming narcissi. Look for early flowering varieties that bloom in February or March, and remember to plant at three times the depth of the individual bulbs.

You hopefully won’t struggle to find traditional gold daffodil varieties to start in September, although there are some interesting modern twists that are equally delightful for spring borders and containers. If you’re intrigued by frilly or double bloom narcissus varieties, you’ll love Narcissus Double Mix from Amazon, with its symphony of gold, cream, pink and orange ruffled trumpets.

5. Early Anemone

With their delicate daisy shapes and generous carpet growth, spring-flowering anemones make highly engaging bulbs to start off in September. This is a wide flowering group, but Grecian windflower (Anemone blanda) and poppy (A. coronaria) anemone varieties are ideal for planting this month. This will depend, again, on your hardiness zone. Planting in September is particularly effective for anemone lovers in zones 7-10. Buy Anemone Windflower bulbs from Amazon for a visual flourish of pink, blue and white petals.

6. Galanthus

Snowdrops are some of the first spring flowers to peep their heads out of the earth in the new year (and if you’re lucky, you may even see them before winter is out, nestling under a gentle frosting of snow). Because they are early starters, it makes sense to plant snowdrop (galanthus) bulbs as early as possible. This way, they can take advantage of the warmer soil, and they have ample time to build up those all important energy reserves.

To give your snowdrops the best chance of success, find a shady (or partially shady) spot with moist (but not waterlogged) soil. They do especially well under a large tree, but can also flourish with lawn plantings and large containers. I’m especially fond of varieties like ‘Wendy’s Gold’ with their intriguing golden markings, but you can’t go wrong with the lush bobbing heads of Willard & May Galanthus Nivalis from Amazon.

7. Fritillaria

Fritillary bulbs are some of my favorite spring flowers, bringing something a little intriguing and quirky to an ornamental display. Depending on the variety and growing region, you can enjoy their gorgeous delicate colors from March until May. September is the perfect time to start Fritillaria meleagris (snake’s head), F. imperialis (crown imperials) and F. affinis (chocolate lily) so bulbs can take full advantage of the soil still being relatively warm. Planting in September means fritillaria roots have plenty of time to establish before spring.

These bulbs aren’t big fans of compacted soil, so work the soil before planting to ensure it is well drained, or plant in large containers or raised beds. Add a layer of sand or grit at the time of planting to help with soil drainage. Snake’s head fritillaria can naturalize on lawns for more delightful spring color. Purple and burgundy blooms are especially popular, but you can also get unique yellow flower varieties like ‘Lutea’ fritillaries. For something unusual and vibrant in your spring borders, try vibrant Fritillaria Imperialis ‘Rubra’ from Nature Hills.

But Don’t Plant This Bulb Yet!

Although the warm soils of September work to the advantage of these bulbs, there is one type of bulb that will suffer from planting too early in the fall. You may well be tempted to plant some tulips – but it’s important to hold off with these for a while.

Planting too early, while the soil is still warm, can expose tulip bulbs to the risk of fungal disease – specifically, a disease known as tulip fire (Botrytis tulipae). This can cause distortion, stunting and rotting, ultimately preventing bulbs from flowering. So September planting would be a mistake – it’s far better for the health and potential of tulips to wait until October or November (depending on your region), so the ground can reach an adequate level of cold sufficient to protect bulbs from disease.

Still, while it’s best to hold off actually planting them, you can absolutely buy some now if you haven’t already. In fact, buying them as soon as possible is a good idea if you want to grab something unusual or unique. There are some gorgeous tulip bulbs available at Burpee – including rich purple ‘Paul Scherer’, fluffy pink and white ‘Double Shake’, and intriguing tulip combo ‘Queen of Night’ and ‘Don Quichotte’, amongst others.

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The end of high summer may make you feel wistful, but this is the perfect time to jump into planning your bulb order for next year’s spring ornamentals. The drop-off in gardening duties now gives you extra time to formulate a cohesive and compelling spring bulb garden plan – filled with exciting flowering choices. Not only does planning now give you an advantage later in terms of planting and timing – it can also give you more options with those all-important bulb purchases.

Planning now for your spring flowering bulbs is also a great opportunity to give your planting gear an overview, cast a critical eye over your soil and containers, think about a few creative twists with new planting styles, and make sure you have everything ready for planting bulbs at the best times. These spring bulb planning pointers are perfect for any garden buff wanting a stunning yard next year – and they are easy to follow. So grab your planner, and let’s get to it!

Best Ways to Kick off Your Spring Bulb Plan

Some key factors will have a bearing on how you approach the task of adding spring bulbs to your flower garden. Some of your choices will hinge as much on your USDA region and soil options, as much as your bulb preferences. However, planning now gives you time to make important adjustments and prime your planting site, whether that’s in beds or borders, on the lawn, or in a series of well placed containers.

Furthermore, creating a sensible spring bulb plan that takes these factors into account can still be fun – and rewarding. Planting spring bulbs means you can transform a quiet yard into a colorful haven at a quiet time of the gardening year, and with a few clever steps, the payoff is huge – whether you’re after cheerful yellow narcissus or dark and moody tulips. It’s all about choosing the best bulbs, nailing the timings, and starting right. Follow these tips, and get ready for a yard bursting with spring color.

1. Get in Early for the Best Picks

Snagging bulbs in late summer or early fall means you can grab the cream of the crop before they’re gone. Garden catalogs and online spots start showing up around August, and those fancy tulips or sturdy daffodils vanish fast. Waiting too long means digging through leftovers, so it’s worth flipping through options early to beat the rush.

Great options to sift through over September and October for spring bulb planting include crocus, hyacinth, narcissus, and alliums. Other great options for October planting include muscari, tulips, anemones and fritillaries. You can find an extensive range of flowering spring bulbs at Burpee, including darkest purple ‘Paul Scherer’ Tulips, ‘Globemaster’ Alliums, ‘Fortissimo’ Daffodils, and ‘Blue Pearl’ Crocuses.

2. Line Up Bulbs With Your Zone

Knowing your USDA zone keeps bulbs from bombing. Zones 3-9 cover most spots, but a tulip happy in zone 5 might sulk in zone 9’s heat – luckily, such mistakes are quite easy to avoid. Think about local weather. Cold snaps call for tough crocuses, while milder areas suit hyacinths. Zones 4-8 are great for cold-hardy crocus, tulip and hyacinth, where a winter chill helps plants to bloom. Meanwhile, zones 9-10 suit narcissus, small species tulips, muscari and warm-climate alliums. Check now to save some “why didn’t this work?” moments.

As well as gauging which bulbs are likely to work best with your USDA zone, it’s also smart to assess the condition of your soil during the seasonal transition between one year’s summer and the next year’s spring. Identifying any issues now gives you plenty of time to amend the soil if needs be. If in doubt, test the soil with a soil meter like the Raintrip 4-in-1 Meter from Amazon, which tests for soil pH, nutrient loads and moisture levels. Getting on top of this ahead of planting and growing will mean your bulbs develop with the best growing conditions possible.

3. Spread Out the Bloom Times

Mixing up when flowers pop keeps the show going. You may be staring down several relatively quiet gardening months, but that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy a succession of color and vibrancy. Knowing how long certain bulbs take to grow and flower means you can plan accordingly. Start with early snowdrop flowers. Depending on the variety and local climate, these can bloom from winter to March. Buy early-spring flowering Willard & May Galanthus Nivalis snowdrop bulbs from Amazon.

Ease into mid-season tulip varieties to create a charming overlap with a point of difference. For an early burst of color, buy ‘Apricot Beauty’ from Nature Hills. The relatively late flowering ‘Black Parrot’ Tulip from Walmart offers an enchanting contrast that offsets any bolder colors as you head into late spring. Cap this with late narcissus bulbs such as ‘Narcissus Double Mix’ from Amazon for a color burst from March to May. Think of it as a seamless flower relay, keeping the garden vibrant with no dull gaps.

4. Stack Bulbs With Lasagna Style

Lasagna bulb planting in pots or beds squeezes in more beauty over the full sweep of spring. In essence, it is a style of planting where layers of different bulbs are planted at mixed levels, arranged according to flowering times and variety specifications, to ensure a constant display of vivid color. You can arrange them either to stagger your display, or to ensure that their blooms appear in concert.

Whether you create a ground-based or container-based bulb lasagne, plant the larger, later-flowering bulbs lowest in the group, and the smallest, earliest blooming bulbs near the surface. A classic spring lasagne would feature tulips low down, covered with mid-layer crocuses, and topped with shallow grape hyacinths like Blue Grape Muscari from Burpee. Come spring, you can enjoy a bloom bonanza!

5. Go for Pots to Switch Things Up

Pots bring bulbs to decks or patios, giving you an instant focal point for your spring displays that is easy to shuffle and relocate if the weather turns. Pack your spring bulb containers with well-drained soil, and have fun playing around with both classic and modern arrangements. Classic container displays allow you to vary heights with bold color contrasts, such as daffodils and muscari. Or you could play with one bulb type, like tulips, in a mixed color display – or even try a monochromatic arrangement.

For deep vertical planters with an elegant, understated style, we love the Worth Store Unbreakable Beige Patio Planters from Amazon with their naturalistic ribs. For a more rustic container, try the 3-pack of BNSPLY Wooden Planter Barrels from Amazon, offering multiple sizes with side handles for moving around.

6. Toss in Annuals and Perennials

Throwing together different bulb types keeps the garden thriving at a quiet time of year, and encourages variety in texture and tone. Mixing up your perennials and annuals lets you explore the possibilities of both types of bulb. For example, perennials like alliums come back yearly, while annual tulips add a quick pop.

To mix things up further, intersperse bulb displays with the joys of other seasonal perennials or annuals, playing to the strengths of both. Usually grown as annuals, depending on region, pansies can make creative gap-fillers for spring bulbs in pots and borders. There are some gorgeous pansy varieties including a diverse mix of pansies at Burpee, such as ‘Sunrise’, Cool Wave’ and ‘Moulin Rouge’, to help you create a shifting, lively scene.

7. Aim for the Planting Sweet Spot

Fall’s the time for spring bulb planting. Aim for 6-8 weeks before the ground freezes. Starting too soon is bad news for tulips, as it can invite the risk of viruses. Conversely, jumping in too late risks puny growth. Think October to November, for most areas and spring bulbs, and mark the date on the calendar. This planting sweet spot lets roots settle before winter, prepping shoots for spring.

This doesn’t mean that you can’t start some spring bulbs off in September. Again, your choice of bulb and variety, your planting region, and the conditions of your soil will have some bearing on your planting window. Hyacinth, crocus, muscari and narcissus, plus snowdrops and early anemones, can all be planted in September, allowing for any specifications from the bulb suppliers. Don’t forget to condition your planting site ahead of planting, with a treatment like Miracle-Gro’s Performance Organics All-Purpose In-Ground soil amendment from Walmart.

8. Hunt Down Quality Bulbs

Stick with solid sources like local nurseries or online names. Nature Hills is a solid source for healthy stock. One of my favorite early catches for my spring bulb collection are the ‘Orange Monarch’ Crocus Bulbs from Nature Hills, with a gorgeous tone and unique shape, in packs of 25. Nature Hills also does an impressive range of tulips, from fluffy marshmallow style ‘Double Surprise’ to sultry ‘Queen of the Night’.

Shopping early allows you to be discerning and make calm decisions, so you can choose firm bulbs free of mold or mush. Spending a little more upfront really pays off. Other great bulb suppliers include Eden Brothers, Brent & Becky’s Bulbs, Breck’s (great for imported Dutch bulbs), American Meadows, and DutchGrown.

9. Grab the Right Gear

As well as the all-important bulbs, it’s important to do a quick overview of your planting gear and make sure your gardening tools are up to scratch. In terms of bulb-planting essentials, a bulb planter like the Garden Weasel Planter from Amazon can take the grunt work out of digging. This planter is perfect for hitting depths of 6-8 inches (15-20cm) for tulips or 3-4 inches (8-10cm) for crocuses.

If you don’t need a long handle, the Berry & Bird Bulb Planter from Amazon is compact and responsive. We also love the American Cast Dibbler from Burpee, which works quickly and has a really comfortable handle. You also need a good hand trowel and a hori-hori like the Fiskars Hori Hori Garden Knife from Amazon. And don’t forget to toss in a pair of gloves and a measuring tape like the Pink WorkPro 25ft Retractable Measuring Tape from Amazon.

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Dahlias are among the most varied flowers you can grow in the garden. Hundreds of cultivars include different shapes, petal types, and sizes that range from petite and simple to dinner-plate-sized blooms bursting with petals. To enjoy these beautiful cutting flowers, look for the most prolific dahlia varieties.

Most dahlias have been bred to be productive, but some yield more flowers and longer-lasting blooms than others. Productive varieties come in all types, from balls to anemones. Choose the types of dahlias you like best and that will give you the most flowers all season.

Choosing the Best Dahlias for More Flowers

Whether you’re looking for large dahlia flowers, smaller types, or anything in between, you want the most bang for your buck. Choosing productive varieties helps, but you can also improve flowering by ensuring good dahlia care. Dahlias need full sun, plenty of water, and fertilizer – ideally a bloom-boosting formula, such as Miracle-Gro Flower Food, available at Amazon. And, don’t forget to deadhead dahlias to get a rebloom and extend flowering time.

Some varieties were simply bred to be more productive, especially those with ball-shaped blooms. These stunning options might give you more flowers in one go, while others keep blooming all season or rebloom throughout the summer and fall.

1. Cornel

‘Cornel’ is very reliable and one of the most productive dahlias with very strong stems that grow up to four feet (1.2m) tall. Cornel is a ball flower type in a deep shade of red. These striking flowers bloom prolifically in summer and fall. You can also find a similar type called ‘Cornel Brons’ with a peach color that darkens to bronze in the center of the flower. Cornel will bloom repeatedly with deadheading.

Cornel and Cornel Brons tubers are both available on Amazon.

2. Chimacum Night

This variety is similar in color and shape to Cornel. The ball-type flowers are a slightly lighter shade of red and a little larger. Like the Cornel varieties, ‘Chimacum Night’ is highly productive. It will keep blooming throughout summer and well into fall, especially if you deadhead it regularly. The medium-sized flowers grow on strong stems up to four feet tall.

Find Chimacum Night at Under the Sun Flower Company.

3. Café au Lait

The flower shape of ‘Café au Lait’ is called decorative, a group that encompasses various shapes that don’t fit into other types. Café au Lait blooms steadily and will give you plenty of cut flowers with a dense cluster of flat, broad petals the color of milky coffee. Slightly darker at the centers, these are big dahlia flowers, known as dinner plates. Growing on five-foot (1.5-m) stems, they can be as big as ten inches (25cm) across.

Buy Dahlia Cafe au Lait tubers from Easy to Grow via Amazon.

4. Intrigue

This is a beautiful dahlia that exhibits an intriguing color shift. The four-inch blooms begin a bright watermelon pink and change to a deeper raspberry or red color in fall. It’s productive and gives you an abundance of flowers that look different from one season to the next. ‘Intrigue’ grows about four feet tall. The flower shape is a loose ball.

Order Dahlia Intrigue from Swan Island Dahlias.

5. Terracotta

Another unique variety, ‘Terracotta’ is a semi-cactus type flower in a rich, peach-brown color. ‘Terracotta’ is very productive and will give you plenty of flowers in summer and fall. It responds well to deadheading and will continue to bloom. The plant is large, growing to five feet tall, and the flowers can be up to five inches (13cm) across.

Order Dahlia Terracotta from Three Acre Farm.

6. Suncrest

If you want a productive yellow dahlia, ‘Suncrest’ should be your go-to choice. The four-inch ball-shaped blooms are the perfect shade of canary yellow but also have a peachy blush on the petal tips. It produces a lot of flowers throughout the season, especially with deadheading. The flowers also last particularly long on the plant and resist damage in bad weather.

Find out more about Suncrest dahlias at Floret.

7. Blue Bayou

This is an example of an anemone-type dahlia that produces prolifically throughout the season. The outer petals are a light pinkish-lavender, while the curled central petals are a deeper purple. This is a smaller dahlia plant than others on this list, so it’s suitable for smaller spaces. ‘Blue Bayou’ only grows to about three feet (90cm) tall, but with numerous, four-inch flowers.

Order Dahlia Blue Bayou at Swan Island Dahlias.

8. Clearview Peachy

This pretty ball-shaped dahlia is a prolific bloomer. It also has long-lasting flowers that still look good even two weeks after being cut. The color is a pinky peach with some yellow at the center of each flower. With deadheading, you can get plenty of flowers from ‘Clearview Peachy’ well into the fall. The plants grow up to five feet tall and each flower is about four inches across.

Order Dahlia Clearview Peachy at Mountain Roots Produce.

9. Jomanda

One of the most productive of all dahlias is another ball type. ‘Jomanda’ flowers are a unique rusty orange color and about four inches across. They bloom for a long time, and the flowers really last in cut arrangements. Keep deadheading this dahlia to encourage even more flowers well into fall.

Order Jomanda dahlia tubers at Free Range Flowers.

Dahlias have a solid reputation for blooming through summer well into the fall, so hopefully you’ll be enjoying an abundance of blooms for many weeks. It’s really only the arrival of the first frost that will mark the end of the flowering season definitively. However, there are definitely stages to dahlia care after flowering that it is good to keep in mind.

As soon as you get a feeling that the blooms are starting to fade, make sure you follow these steps to keep them looking their best. Here, we'll explore what to do with dahlias after flowering, when to cut back dahlias after flowering, and how to further promote bloom.

1. Make Sure Dahlias Have Finished Flowering

Yes, you’ve seen the flowers fade – but dahlias are notoriously generous when it comes to repeat showings, especially if you are willing to keep snipping back the fading flower heads. Routine deadheading, or the removal of faded blooms, is a great way to extend the display. This should be your first step in ensuring the best care for dahlias after flowering.

So make sure you keep dahlias flowering for as long as possible by deadheading. Where you see a faded flower head, snip just above a leaf node using shears like Scotts' Straight Tip Floral Shears from Walmart. Lightly pinching or trimming green growth back to the nearest set of healthy leaves can help plants to rebloom as temperatures start to cool in the fall.

It’s true, the production of blooms will likely decrease over time. This will be especially true where summer temperatures climb high, or where conditions are dry. But it’s always worth deadheading as a means to eke out the show. Towards the end of the season, you may want to save seed on a few flower heads, allowing the seed pods to dry and fully mature.

2. Cutting Dahlias Back in the Fall

So when do you cut dahlias back after flowering? The first frost will officially mark the end of the dahlia growing season. At this time, plants will brown and begin to die back. At this point, care of dahlias after flowering becomes about getting the plant ready for winter. Cutting back helps to protect your dahlia variety in preparation for dormancy.

It’s a good idea to allow plants to stand for several weeks as each tuber prepares for winter. After that, each stem can then be cut back to the ground. All dead or decaying plant matter should be removed to prevent the spread of disease in beds. Depending on plant variety, some stalks will be fairly thick. Use a sharp blade – there’s a great-value Secateurs Set from Spear & Jackson, available at Amazon, for sharp cuts.

3. Lifting and Storing Dahlias

Where hardy, tubers may then be left in the ground through winter, returning to bloom again in spring. You can also lift the tubers from the soil and store dahlias indoors. This helps to protect dahlias grown outside the recommended hardiness zone (for most varieties, this will be USDA 8-11).

If you do choose to lift dahlias, you can begin to do so after all plant foliage has died back and been removed. Position the shovel carefully, working in a large circle around the perimeter of each plant. This will help to prevent accidental damage to tubers. Any excess soil should be removed from the plant, allowing for a clearer view of the dahlia clump.

At this time, you can either divide dahlia clumps or store them whole through winter. Pack tubers in wood shavings, peat or vermiculite, to keep tubers protected whilst in storage. We love Back to the Roots Organic Vermiculite, available at Amazon in a variety of sizes along with a selection of perlite bags.

Tubers are best kept in a cool, dark place until planting in spring. If you need a quick way to keep an eye on temperature and humidity, the ThermoPro TP50 Hygrometer, available at Amazon, is a user-friendly way of monitoring key information and tracking changes at a glance.

4. Replanting Dahlias in Spring

You can begin to wake your stored dahlia tubers in early spring. In general, you should allow 4-6 weeks for tubers to break dormancy. Required length will vary, however, with storage conditions being a major contributing factor, along with dahlia variety (and age).

Move stored clumps to a warm location to encourage sprouting, initiating new growth from eyes near each tuber's neck. You may also choose to pot dahlia plants into individual containers at this time, allowing for consistent moisture until the first signs of growth occur. Pre-sprouted tubers can be moved into the garden as soon as the soil has warmed in spring, provided all risk of frost has passed. Follow these steps, and you can be sure you have the best chance of enjoying beautiful summer blooming plants again next year.

Frequently Asked Questions

If you grow dahlias, you’ll probably want to increase your stock. You can do this easily with many varieties by collecting and growing seeds, taking cuttings, or dividing the root. Once the seedlings and cuttings develop a sufficient root system, and the danger of frost is past, you’ll need to be transplanting dahlias outdoors.

Plants that grow from cuttings or root division are exact replicas of the original or mother plant. Plants that grow from seed are new varieties you created yourself, (along with the help of the bees!). Once dahlias started from seed or cuttings and grown in pots are big enough, dahlia transplanting allows you to relocate your homegrown dahlias in larger containers, raised beds, window boxes or mixed beds. That way, they can hit the flowering season at the peak of health.

Here’s how to make sure you are transplanting dahlia plants at the right time, in the best way, and with the best aftercare.

When to Transplant Dahlias

If you’re wondering when to transplant dahlias, it’s best done in the spring once the danger of frost is past. You can find your average last frost date on the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) website. Watch your local weather to make sure no more frosts or freezes are forecast. Do dahlias transplant well? Dahlias grown from seed or cuttings transplant easily into the garden in spring. Also, roots divided in the spring transplant well into the ground. With the right prep and care, transplanted dahlias can keep flowering all summer and well into fall.

If you haven’t prepared your planting site, do that while waiting for temperatures to warm. Get a soil sample analyzed to find out what kind of amendments (if any) your soil needs. You'll find some great multi-test kits online. The Rapitest Soil Test Kit for Gardens, available at Amazon, tests for soil pH, phosphorus, nitrogen and potash levels.

Without a soil sample, you can work in compost or well-rotted manure about two weeks before you anticipate planting out your particular dahlia varieties. Alternatively, you can apply a low nitrogen fertilizer – something with a ratio of 5-10-5 or 5-10-10, such as Old Cobblers Farm Fertilizer 5-10-10, available at Walmart. Add to the planting beds following the instructions on the fertilizer package.

How to Transplant Dahlias

You will know when to transplant dahlia seedlings because the roots will fill the planting pot. If the last frost date is behind you, start hardening off the seedlings, which takes a week to 10 days. Take the pots outside to a shady area during the day and bring them back in at night. Do this daily, but each day increase the amount of sun the plants receive. Hardening off gives them the best chance of developing into beautiful summer blooming plants.

To plant a seedling, dig a hole an inch (2.5cm) deeper than the rootball. Insert the plant, then fill in with soil to ground level. Water the plant well. Slide a stake into the earth next to the plant about as tall as the plant will grow. Adding a stake now rather than later will prevent root or tuber damage. Joyhalo Plant Stakes from Amazon come in packs of 16 and include a bundle of twist ties.

Plant each dahlia a couple of feet (0.6m) apart to allow room for tubers to form. Water enough to keep the soil from drying out. If you live where there is a long growing season, direct sow the dahlia seeds into the soil after it has warmed to 65-70°F (18-21°C). Cover seeds with a quarter inch of soil and keep moist until plants germinate.

Transplanting dahlias from pots after rooting the cuttings is the same procedure as planting seedlings above. Similarly, you can pot dahlias on into larger pots and planters outdoors, creating optimum conditions for the best container plants possible.

Care for Newly Planted Dahlias

After planting, continue summer care of the plants. If you didn’t fertilize instead of adding soil amendments at planting, you can start fertilizing dahlias three weeks after planting – and subsequently every four weeks during the growing season. If you are growing dahlias in containers, fertilize them every three weeks. Use a low nitrogen fertilizer such as Age Old Organics Age Old Bloom 5-10-5 from Walmart. Make sure your plants also water dahlias frequently, particularly in high summer.

After dahlia transplanting, apply mulch around the plants to conserve moisture, keep the plants cool, and reduce weeds. During flowering, keep an eye on faded flowers and deadhead dahlias regularly to prolong the flowering season. Protect the plants from slugs and snails by removing the pests early each morning. Deploy organic solutions such as beer traps to help regulate slug numbers.

Frequently Asked Questions

Dahlias are tuberous perennials native to Mexico and Central America, and they come in all shapes and sizes. Prized in the garden for their varied blooms, they can create dazzling displays that quickly fill out beds and borders. However, if you have limited space or want to grow dahlias in containers, you do have options.

There are plenty of dwarf dahlias that can rise to the occasion while maintaining a compact form. These small dahlias only grow to two feet (60cm) in height, and they are commonly 12-18 inches (30-45cm). Here are a few of the most exquisite for gorgeous long flowering summer blooming plants even in small spaces.

Choosing the Best Compact Dahlia Varieties

Many dahlias are tall, growing up to six feet (1.8m), and are not appropriate for containers. These short dahlias are ideal for a small dahlia garden, compact backyard, balcony space or full sun container garden.

These smaller dahlia varieties should come back next year if you properly dig up and store the tuberous roots. Let the roots cure in the soil for the best results. This means not digging them up until about two weeks after the first frost. Wrap the roots in newspaper and store in a box with sawdust, sand or vermiculite in a cool, dry area. Plant next spring for another summer of blooms.

1. ‘Sunshine’

This is a single dahlia variety that comes in a striking double-color combination of deep yellow with orange at the base of each petal. When grown in a container garden, it’s truly sunshine in a pot.

If you can keep these dahlias flowering, they can last for up to four weeks each, and they also attract pollinators. 'Sunshine' dahlias grow as tall as two feet (60cm). If you like yellow single dahlias, then ‘Happy Single’ from Walmart is also a great option for containers.

2. ‘Stacy Rachelle’

‘Stacy Rachelle’ came onto the scene in 1993 as a new cultivar that only grows to about eight inches (20cm) tall. This makes it an ideal plant for container gardening. The flowers are ball type, meaning they have many tightly packed petals forming a rounded shape.

Flowers are a pretty pinkish-purple and sit on top of especially sturdy and straight stems. If you like ball dahlias, pinky purple ‘Lilac Time’ from Touch of Eco is available to buy in bulb form from Walmart.

3. ‘Scura’

This is an all-around dwarf, with a short height (one foot or 30cm) and a small flower (one inch or 2.5cm across). The blooms are a deep shade of orange with an orange center. They are considered single dahlias for their single row of petals.

‘Scura’ is a simple but very elegant flower and one of the most colorful plants you can grow in a smaller garden or pot. If you like orange single dahlias, then ‘Topmix Salmon’ dahlia from Holland Bulb Farms, available from Walmart, is also a great dwarf for containers and small gardens.

4. ‘Yankee Doodle Dandy’

This is a really special variety of dahlia and perfect for containers, because it is short and has a bushy growth habit. It will only get as tall as two feet and will fill out a container nicely. Deadhead frequently to extend the flowering season. The flowers are the collarette type, meaning they have an outer ring of petals surrounded by an inner ring of smaller petals.

The outer petals are deep pink with white streaks and the inner petals are solid white, while the center is yellow. If you like collarettes and want to grow a dwarf variety, you can also get ‘Impression Festivo’ dahlias from Hirt’s Gardens, available from Walmart, with red and yellow tones.

5. ‘Pianella’

‘Pianella’ grows between 18 and 24 inches (45 and 60cm) and is a cactus-type of dahlia. Cactus dahlias have tubular petals, which give each flower head a distinctively spiky appearance. ‘Pianella’ petals are reddish-pink with white edging on the tips.

If you like cactus dahlia varieties, ‘Tahiti Sunrise’ from Hirt’s Gardens, available at Walmart, only grows to 20 inches tall, and makes a lovely option for a small cut flower garden.

6. ’Happy Days’

‘Happy Days’ dahlias make sensational summer flowers for pots. This is actually a series of compact dahlias that come in several colors: pink, yellow, purple, red, lemon yellow and red combined with orange.

These dahlias also have unique, nearly black foliage. This deep, rich leaf tone sets off the bright colors of the blooms, which are single-petalled. ‘Happy Days’ dahlias grow to 20 inches (50cm) tall.

7. ‘Omo’

If you’re looking for a short, pure white dahlia, you can’t go wrong with ‘Omo,’ which will only grow to 16 inches (40cm) tall. The petals are single and bright white, and surround a yellow center.

If you like white dahlias, you can also try ‘Dalina Grande Lopez’ from Proven Winners, which is another good option for containers, reaching 18 inches (30cm) tall.

Dahlia enthusiasts love these plants for their blooms, so dahlias not blooming in the garden is a real letdown. We hear that – and we understand why you’ll be looking for clues as to where you might need to adapt your growing care to entice those dazzling floral displays into life.

Similarly, where you have seen a few flowers but failed to see consecutive blooms, worry not – there are ways to switch up your dahlia cultivating techniques to bring on further dynamics. So if you’re trying to grow dazzling dollies and aren’t seeing enough flowers, check out these common dahlia problems and solutions.

7 Dahlia Problems to Avoid for Better Blooming

As dahlia lovers, we might often gaze at other people’s dahlia displays and wonder how they do it so well – especially if our own dahlias don’t put on quite the show we were expecting, or fail to flower at all. Exactly what is it that makes some displays burst into life with such vibrant conviction – while our own remain relatively quiet?

The big secret to growing different varieties of dahlias successfully is to provide them with their ideal growing conditions: plenty of sunlight, well-drained, fertile soil, consistent moisture, and regular balanced fertilizer. For most areas, growing dahlias for more than once season also requires digging up tubers in the fall to store for winter.

Whether you’re growing dahlias in the ground or growing potted dahlias, there are a few tried and true ways to identify and fix the source of your dahlia doldrums. Read on to find out if any of these common mistakes could be holding you back – and how to rectify the problems to bring on those enduring summer blooms.

1. Overwatering or Underwatering

Getting moisture right is key to healthy, blooming dahlias that flower for longer. In a dahlia, yellow leaves or wilting leaves can be signs of both too much and too little water. Overwatered dahlias may also be droopy. Dahlia leaf problems due to overwatering also include wilting and a watery, translucent appearance.

For the best chance of healthy, vibrant blooms, you need to water dahlias deeply once or twice a week from the beginning of the growing season. Use mulch to hold moisture in the soil, but be sure the planting area drains well.

2. Too Much Nitrogen in Fertilizer

Dahlias are heavy feeders and need regular fertilizer to thrive and develop the most colorful flowers. However, there is a chance you could be giving your plants the wrong type of food. If the fertilizer has too much nitrogen, the plants will focus on growing leaves rather than flowers. You need to use a general fertilizer or a tomato fertilizer, and apply as directed.

A potassium-rich feed will boost and support flowering, particularly if you are growing dahlias in containers. You can apply a feed geared towards flowering until September. Try Neptune’s Harvest from Amazon which helps with stress resistance as well as improved flower size. You’ll also appreciate water-soluble Miracle-Gro Tomato Plant Food from Amazon for a controlled way to promote more robust dahlia blooms.

3. Inadequate Sunlight

Dahlias are full sun plants. Whether you are looking for a vibrant bloomer for a container garden or a stunning addition to a bed or border, you need to make sure that the spot you choose is one that will be able to sate this summer stunner’s need for extensive rays. To really thrive and flower, they need eight hours of direct sunlight per day.

In hotter climates, plant your dahlias in a location that gets most of this sun earlier in the day. Bear in mind that hot afternoon temperatures can stress these plants. In a dahlia, leaves curling can indicate that the plant is too hot or getting too much intense afternoon sun. Try to alleviate this risk by providing some shade from afternoon rays.

4. Too Cold to Grow

Dahlias are native to the tropics, so if they get too cold, they won’t thrive or flower and might even die. You need to wait until the soil in spring is at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10°C) before planting your tubers. If you live in a colder climate, be aware that your dahlias may not flower until late summer or even fall.

5. Forgetting to Deadhead

Deadheading spent blooms is important for keeping your dahlias blooming. As the flowers fade, the plant starts putting energy into seed production. When you deadhead dahlia flowers, the plant will then produce more, so it can still go on to make those seeds. Snip off fading flowers throughout the season to keep the plant producing as many new blooms as possible.

Harvesting cut flowers will also help extend the blooming season. Use cutters specifically geared towards neat, precise cuts directly under the fading flowerhead. Try this 3-Pack of Shears, Snips and Clippers from Amazon to cover off a range of cuts. We also love Scotts Straight Tip Floral Shears from Walmart for accurate cuts that suit both right and left-handed dahlia growers.

6. Damaged or Rotten Tubers

Dahlias are tubers that, in most regions, must be lifted in the fall and stored for winter. One of the most important parts of dahlia care is proper storage of dahlia tubers over winter. You need to know how to tell if dahlia tubers are dead or no longer viable. If you plant bad tubers, you won’t get flowers.

A healthy tuber should be firm and a healthy color with plenty of eyes. Tubers need to be moist enough to be firm rather than shriveled, but not so moist that they rot. To avoid bad tubers, store them properly in peat moss, plastic, or wood shavings in a dry, protected place. Check them every month, and add moisture as needed. Throw out any that begin to rot, as they will destroy the rest of the tubers.

7. Not Dividing Tubers Correctly

Next year’s flowers come from the tubers you dig up in the fall, so if you don’t do this step correctly, it can affect blooms. When you divide dahlia tubers, each one must contain an eye and part of the stem, or it won’t grow and flower. Divide carefully to ensure that each dahlia tuber you divide from the main clump has each of these.

Dahlias are beloved cottage flowers and cut flowers and provide impressive variety in petal structure, color and shape. However, larger dahlia varieties can require a great deal of space. If you don’t have the option of large beds and borders but still wish to grow dahlias, you will be wanting to try your hand at a few pot-friendly options. Fortunately there are some gorgeous compact and dwarf options that thrive in pots. Here are some of the best dahlias for pots, including pompon, anemone and single-petal varieties.

Choosing the Best Dahlias for Containers

If you’re hoping to grow dahlias in containers, the plant’s anticipated size at maturity should be your top priority. Though it is possible to grow tall dahlia varieties in pots, it is generally not advised. Still, a wide range of dwarf dahlias for pots are available. There’s plenty of choice in color, flower form and habit.

Decorative and ball types are amongst the best dahlias for pots. Take special note of each plant's hardiness, planning whether to grow tubers as annuals or perennials. You also need to give some thought to the type of container, making sure yours have good drainage holes. So, which dahlias are best for pots? Here are a few of the most vivid, long-flowering and adaptable for different container situations.

1. ‘Bishop of Llandaff’

Known for its stunning purple-black foliage, ‘Bishop of Llandaff’ dahlias are especially well suited to container culture. Brilliant red flowers open in large numbers, attracting hummingbirds as well as beneficial insects.

With routine dahlia deadheading, you can expect blooms from these stunning compact dahlias to bloom through summer and all the way to fall. You’ll find a range of red dahlias at Burpee, including red-petal ‘Cornel’ and ‘The Big Wow’ dahlias.

2. ‘Gallery’ Series

Bred specifically for use in pots and containers, you can find the ‘Gallery’ series of dahlias in a range of colors (the dahlia pictured here is ‘Art Nouveau’). Though compact in nature, you can expect an abundance of blooms that keep coming for months. These are some of the best dahlia plants for container gardening.

Large, semi-double flowers make for an especially attractive addition to porches, patios and other gathering spaces. You can buy ‘Leonardo’ in the Series at Walmart, along with other options. You’ll find some equally impressive dahlias at the Proven Winners website, including gorgeous salmon ‘Pinkerific’.

3. ‘Happy Days Mix’

The ‘Happy Days Mix’ is beloved for its vibrancy of color. Bright, single blooms are born atop tall stems. That said, mature plants remain compact, and you should be able to keep them flowering all through summer.

These container plants are especially attractive to pollinators and a wide range of beneficial insects. You’ll find some equally striking dahlia options at Amazon.com, including varieties you can start from seed or bulbs.

4. ‘Impression’ Series

The ‘Impression’ series of dahlias are collarette types, where the main petals of each flowerhead come with a smaller ring of shorter petals. These dahlias produce an abundance of pollen, beloved of pollinators. Dwarf plants work well in pots, serving as filler or focal flowers in mixed containers. There are a few other collarettes, plus anemone and pompon dahlias at Walmart.

5. ‘Karma Sangria’

‘Karma Sangria’ dahlias are treasured for their bright pink and yellow two-tone color and distinctive cactus form. Flowering continues through summer, ceasing only with the arrival of cooler temperatures.

This variety makes an excellent choice for container gardening, as well as the cut flower garden. You’ll find a few more striking cactus and semi-cactus dahlias at Burpee, including ‘Lisonette’ with its two-tone red and yellow effect.

6. ‘Melody Mambo’

Reaching only 22in (55cm) at maturity, ‘Melody Mambo’ is ideal for use in pots and containers. Those in search of highly saturated colorful plants are certain to be pleased by the variety's fiery red tones. The plant’s beauty is furthered only by its full double blooms, which are held high above foliage.

Consistent moisture throughout summer is key to the creation of lasting floral displays. If you love the hot colors of ‘Melody Mambo’, you will also love similarly hot tinted ‘Babylon Purple’ and ‘LeBella Maggiore’ dahlias at Burpee.

7. ‘Park Princess’

Favored among growers for its dwarf habit, ‘Park Princess’ is best when grown near porches and patios. Here, guests and passersby can appreciate this dahlia’s large, pink cactus-like blooms. Strong stems make this plant well-suited to a cut flower garden, as well as a gorgeous pink flower focal piece in pots and containers.

You can expect tubers to begin blooming quickly, continuing with vigor through summer. Aficionados of pink flowers will love some of the other pink dahlia options available at Walmart, including ‘Way of Life’ and ‘Happy Butterfly’.

8. ‘Totally Tangerine’

Popular amongst cutting enthusiasts, ‘Totally Tangerine’ remains one of the most sought-after dahlias for containers. This is largely due to its subtle pastel tones and unique anemone-like flower form.

This variety performs well in a container. You can look forward to sensational summer flowers in pots, provided the container can accommodate its robust root system. Lovers of orange, bronze and peach petals will find more interesting dahlia selections at Burpee.

9. ‘Waltzing Mathilda’

Like other semi-double types, ‘Waltzing Mathilda’ dahlias are certain to yield armloads of distinguished blooms through summer and early fall. Stems are held brightly above foliage, adding height and appeal to mixed containers.

Provided you carry out regular deadheading, you can expect consistent performance and bloom, ceasing only with the arrival of the first frost. There are plenty more vivid orange and peach dahlias at Walmart, which stocks a range of bulbs.

Few plants match the appeal of dahlias. This ornamental beauty has staggering potential for reblooming and continued flowering – long after other summer favorites start to fade. Anyone hoping to grow dahlias for the first time will be enamored by their enduring beauty. But in order to help you make the most of their extended bloom times, it’s important to know how to keep dahlias flowering for as long as possible.

The sooner you can take steps to maximize the blooming season, the better. Ongoing care is relatively minimal, no matter which dahlia varieties you decide to grow. That said, a few simple cultivation essentials will help to keep your plants looking their best. So start now, and follow these simple measures to guarantee a gorgeous extended season of memorable dahlia displays.

How Do Dahlias Bloom All Summer?

Will dahlias bloom all summer? Absolutely – as long as you are willing to put in a little bit of care, and start as you mean to go on. In terms of initial planting, dahlias perform best when situated in well-draining soil, with ample light through the day. Though growers can expect beds to thrive when conditions are warm, excess heat or drought may negatively impact bloom. This is even more of an issue if you are growing in pots. So if you want longer flowering times, take action fast.

The dahlia flowering period may also vary by species, with many native flower types differing from those most frequently cultivated in the home garden. While they are praised for being prolific, these five essential tips for dahlia care in summer will greatly improve your chances of seeing those beautiful blooms for a lot longer…

1. Cutting, Deadheading and Pinching

Learning how to get more flowers on dahlias often begins with pinching. This occurs in spring, as dahlia tubers begin to sprout. Trim or cut the growth tip when each plant has 4-6 sets of true leaves. This allows it to begin branching, resulting in bushier growth and an increased production of flowers.

Routine cutting throughout summer will continue the process, allowing each plant to become larger and larger. Snipping flowering stems as cut flowers is especially helpful in promoting further bloom, removing stems as soon as flowers open. You'll find a good set of pruners, like the Felco F6 Hand Pruners from Amazon, useful for dahlia cutting and snipping.

You can also promote further bloom through routine dahlia deadheading. Deadheading refers to the removal of spent or faded flowers, preventing each from forming seeds. This can be done on a weekly basis, disposing of and removing discarded plant matter from the garden.

Lightly cutting back dahlias in summer, once flowering has slowed, is another viable option. This is especially useful as a way to encourage rebloom as the weather begins to cool in late summer.

2. Watering Your Dahlias

Taking steps to water dahlia plants regularly will be an essential aspect of ongoing summer care. This is especially true in regions that are particularly hot or experience prolonged periods of drought. The use of proper watering techniques is also crucial. It’s best to water plants deeply and from below, aiming for at least an inch (2.5cm) of water per week.

Using soaker hoses or drip irrigation lines in beds and raised beds will allow you to regulate water intake. This Rain Bird Drip Irrigation Watering Kit from Amazon would do the job nicely. If growing in containers, make sure the growing medium is not allowed to dry completely. Try mulching around plants to cool garden soil and aid in the regulation of moisture levels.

3. Boost Dahlia Fertility

Dahlias are considered heavy feeders. Routine applications of appropriate dahlia fertilizer can help to boost growth and promote continued bloom through summer and into fall. For a measured approach, apply a balanced, slow-release feed at planting time. This will aid in the production of leaves and rapid root development.

Continue feeding through the growing season, deploying soil drenches and fast-acting foliar feeds. That said, although plants will benefit greatly from nutrient-rich soils, take care to avoid overfeeding. Excess levels of nitrogen are problematic to dahlias, resulting in lush growth but poor flower set.

4. Shade on Hot Summer Days

Most dahlias will perform best if they receive full sun throughout the day, but exposure to excessive heat may negatively impact the production of flowers. It is for this reason that some growers choose to plant in partly shaded locations. If you are growing dahlias in containers, move to a shady spot when temperatures soar. Alternatively, use shade cloth to protect plants during heat waves and very hot days.

While dahlias do thrive in full sun, it is highly beneficial to intervene where necessary to prevent problems related to scorch or burn. Flowering can slow during periods of high heat or humidity, but bloom should resume as growing conditions improve.

5. Check for Pests & Problems

Provided other growing conditions are ideal, problems with pests or diseases are likely the cause of limited flowering. Fungal infections like powdery mildew are most common, while problems like gall or viral infections may lead to the loss of plants. One of the best ways to prevent the likelihood of diseases like powdery mildew is to make sure there is good air flow between plants, whether in containers or beds.

Aphids, mites and thrips may all frequent the plant, feeding on its sap. Earwigs are a particular concern for dahlia growers, causing considerable damage to blooms and limiting the chances of further flowering. Ensure growing conditions are well ventilated and well lit, as earwigs are attracted to the damp and dark. If you suspect an infestation, try upturned pots filled with newspaper to trap earwigs which can then be removed.

Frequently Asked Questions

Spring in our backyards is traditionally marked by the arrival of robins darting in trees, frogs croaking, and a gorgeous blaze of tulips. These spring-blooming bulb plants originated in Central Asia, but have spread across the globe, inspiring many tulip festival events and special dedicated mass displays.

In the Netherlands, tulips were valued so highly that they inspired tulip mania, with bulbs even used as currency. While that particular tulip frenzy may have died down, their bright, beautiful blooms still excite admiration and attention – and tulip festivals can still be enjoyed in countries around the world.

So if you love growing tulips, keep these key celebrations in mind. Hopefully they will inspire some bold shows of color in your own gardens – and don’t forget to boost your own bulb displays with well appointed companion planting florals like Snow Crystals sweet alyssum and Tiger Eyes marigolds.

Enjoy the Best Tulip Festivals Around the World

The phrase “East or west, home’s best” doesn’t apply to tulip festivals. Although you can find tulips aplenty in the United States, there are several incredible tulip festivals scattered around the globe. You may be looking for inspiration for your own multi-season bulb garden or just want to enjoy innovative bursts of color – but if you are trying to discover the very best tulip festival 2025, here’s our shortlist of the top tulip events to consider.

1. Canadian Tulip Festival, Ottawa, Canada

Ottawa – Canada’s capital city – became invested in tulips after World War II, since the Dutch queen escaped the Nazis by coming to the Canadian city. After the war, the queen offered Ottawa a huge gift of tulip bulbs – and even today, millions of bulbs are planted in 40 different gardens in the city. These are celebrated in the Canadian Tulip Festival, considered the world’s largest.

The 11-day festival covers all hues of blooms from unusual dark purples and pretty pastels to neon yellows and unexpected reds, and also offers food markets, outdoor concerts, movie showings, and fireworks. The event runs through May and is free of charge.

2. International Istanbul Tulip Festival, Istanbul, Turkey

Since tulips originated in Turkey during the Ottoman Empire, it makes sense that this bright bloomer is the country’s national flower. This festival turned the entire city of Istanbul into a botanical garden filled with millions of tulips, but Ermigan Park – one of the largest public parks in the city – is a main hub.

Since it overlooks Bosphorus Strait, the views are undeniably stunning. Expect pop-up musical performances amid a patchwork of over 120 different varieties of tulips. Open through April and free of charge.

3. The Keukenhof Gardens, Lisse, the Netherlands

The enormous Dutch garden Keukenhof offers a staggering display of tulip beds filled in spring with brilliant flowers. The seven million blooms of tulips featured are predominantly presented in dazzling unique hues of yellow, purple and pink.

They appear in beds that are so massive, you can see them as your plane is landing at the airport. Is this the best tulip festival in the world? Well, it’s certainly in the running. This event is open from March to May and is also free of charge.

4. Tesselaar Tulip Festival, Silvan, Australia

You think of tulips as spring flowers, but guess what? In the Southern hemisphere, spring comes in September. That makes Tesselaar a unique tulip festival. It features 40 nurseries and plant growers, offering a stunning blend of small and large flowers.

You’ll also find live music, a multicultural food exhibition and a sculpture display. There are bulbs available for purchase, so come the fall visitors can plant their favorite bulb species at home for tulip blooms next year. This event carries on from September to early October with paid entry.

5. Tulip Time Festival in Holland, Michigan, USA

Not everyone has globe-trotting plans for 2025. If this is you, you may be more interested in “a tulip festival near me” than the best the world has to offer. So why not visit the best tulip festival in the USA, the Tulip Time Festival? It’s also the largest tulip festival in the country, with six million tulips planted around the city.

Dutch history (Dutch Calvinist separatists settled here in 1847) is at the heart of this fantastic festival that has been happening for almost a century. Over four million tulips bloom during spring, attracting almost a million visitors a year. Open through May with paid admission.

6. Pashley Manor Gardens in East Sussex, England

Fans of English country gardens will love the Pashley Manor Gardens, with its 11 acres of beds and vistas, located on the border of Sussex and Kent. The Manor is still privately owned and maintained, leading to impressive attention to detail. The graceful garden is famed for its fantastic displays of tulips at its annual festival.

The garden of this Tudor manor home dates back to the 16^th century. The romantic landscapes are filled with arches cloaked in fast growing vines and innovative planting schemes, including more than 48,000 tulips of 105 varieties (all clearly labeled) planted in color-themed gardens. Visit in April and May with paid admission.

Frequently Asked Questions

More Dazzling Floral Inspiration

• Inspired by these spring medleys and looking to get the jump on the summer bulb season? Make sure you plant some of these summer blooming bulbs to enrich your beds and borders with more color as the seasons change!
• If you’re keen to get the most dynamic displays with the least effort, make sure you choose some well placed annuals. These easy annual flowers that bloom all summer will bring carefree color to beds, borders, hanging baskets and containers.
• Make sure your future tulip displays are tip-top by avoiding the main pitfalls that growers encounter. We list the top planting mistakes that tulip experts cite as being the most frequent, so you can prevent calamity and guarantee magical medleys.
• Keep some space free for perennials to service your garden with razzle-dazzle from spring to fall. Grow some of the longest flowering perennials and you’ll keep the wow factor buzzing until first frost!

Spring-blooming bulbs often get the glory because they signal the end of winter, but what about bulbs that bring us flowers in summer? These are the bulbs to plant now, in early spring. Don’t miss your window to enjoy these spectacular summer flowers.

Timing is everything with summer-flowering bulbs. While spring-blooming bulbs go in the ground in fall and wait all winter to bring us the first colors of spring, summer-blooming bulbs should be planted in early spring. They are tender bulbs native to warmer climates. Grow them as annuals or dig them up in the fall to store them for the following spring.

Follow specific guidelines when planting each type of bulb. Generally, you should plant summer bulbs once the soil has warmed up to 55 to 60°F (13 to 16°C). Plant them in soil that drains very well. Water the bulbs regularly but avoid overwatering. Bulbs rot easily in excess water. Most summer bulbs need full sun.

Summer-blooming bulbs are technically not all bulbs. Although they get grouped together as different types of bulbs, they include corms, rhizomes, and tuberous roots. What they all have in common is that they grow from these fleshy underground structures that store energy and nutrients. Here are seven summer flowers to consider planting now, in spring.

1. Canna Lily

Canna lily is a classic and stunning summer bulb and a tropical annual that you can dig up in fall and store for the following year. It has both striking foliage and flowers, growing up to eight feet (2.4m) tall over the course of the summer.

You can find cannas in many varieties, even dwarf types if you want something more diminutive. Canna leaves are large and may be variegated or striped, while the flowers come in several bright shades. Cannas are hardy in USDA hardiness zones 8 through 10 and prefer full sun and moist, well-drained soil.

2. Dahlia

Dahlias are perennials in zones 8 and higher. In colder zones, you can dig up and overwinter the tubers. Dahlias are popular for their pretty flowers that come in a huge variety of colors, forms, and sizes, including dinner plate blooms.

Dahlias will bloom from mid-summer through fall, often up to the first frost. Give them a sunny spot and loamy, well-drained soil. Although they make pretty cut flowers, be aware that dahlias are toxic to pets.

3. Gladiolus

This is a classic cottage garden flower. Gladiolus are beautiful ornamentals and cut flowers. They bloom with multiple flowers on tall spikes. Glads are particularly useful in vegetable gardens because they attract pollinators. Look for different varieties in colors from red and pink to yellow, orange, and even green.

Glads grow from corms and are hardy through zone 7. Dig and store the corms if they are not hardy in your zone or simply grow them as annuals in full sun or partial shade. Like dahlias, glads are toxic to pets.

4. Pineapple Lily

A pineapple lily is a unique summer bulb that is neither a lily nor a pineapple. The name comes from the flower stalk with multiple, small, lily-like flowers topped by green leaves, which all together resemble a pineapple. Native to Africa, pineapple lily needs warmth, full sun, and well-drained soil to grow well.

You can grow pineapple lily in beds, but it also does very well in containers. It will attract pollinators to the garden. Dig up and store the bulbs for winter, or if container-grown, bring the pots indoors for winter.

5. Elephant Ear

Elephant ear (Colocassia spp., Alocasia spp., Xanthosoma spp. ) is a fun tropical species that, while it can flower, is grown for its unique foliage. The common name for this plant comes from the large leaves that come in a range of colors and patterns, even a green so dark it’s nearly black. Depending on the type, elephant ears can grow up to six feet (1.8m) tall and wide.

Elephant ear is hardy in zones 9 through 11. It grows best in partial shade but will tolerate full sun. The soil should be consistently moist but well drained. Elephant ear is toxic to pets, so avoid if your pets are prone to nibbling on plants.

6. Crocosmia

Also known as copper tips, crocosmia is revered for its unique, deep-orange flowers. Cultivars of crocosmia have been developed for longer-lasting flowers, but keep in mind that it may take a few years for them to reach their full blooming potential.

Crocosmia is hardy in zones 6 through 10, so it can be grown as a perennial in many more locations than other summer bulbs. Plant it in full sun with well-drained soil.

7. Calla Lily

Calla lilies are elegant flowers well-known for the white variety often used in wedding bouquets. They come in many different colors, though, including orange, yellow, pink, and deep red. Calla lilies are hardy in zones 8 through 10 and must be dug up for winter storage in colder areas.

Calla lilies grow well in full sun and tolerate humidity and heat. They prefer rich, moist, well-drained soil. Like other lilies, calla lilies are toxic to animals and humans, so be careful if you have pets or small children around them.

Summer bulbs need to be planted in spring, but they will reward you soon after with stunning summer blooms. Whether you grow them as annuals or store them for winter, these quick-growing flowers don’t disappoint.

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With their rapid growth and ease of care, amaryllis is ideal for growing indoors through the holiday season and winter weeks. Traditional red amaryllis flowers remain popular for adding a bright burst of color to mantelpieces, dinner tables, patios and conservatories. They are certainly some of the most vibrant types of amaryllis you can keep.

A plant that’s well-suited to inside decor, potted amaryllis plants are commonly incorporated into tablescapes and festive windowsills where they are able to receive ample light. After the holidays are over, many have the potential to keep delighting through the chilly months. But how does one go about choosing the best red amaryllis bulbs for forcing through winter? Here are some of the most common red amaryllis varieties you can keep and cultivate.

Choosing the Best Red Amaryllis Varieties

Though red amaryllis plants will grow readily indoors, some varieties may be better suited than others. When growing bulbs for the first time, you should look for species that are recommended for forcing. These types of red amaryllis are often praised for both their early bloom time and prolific production of flowers. For anyone looking to grow amaryllis that stay at their best for as long as possible, buy large, firm bulbs at planting time to ensure the best floral displays. Other characteristics to consider include the overall size of the plant at maturity, flower form and likelihood of rebloom.

1. Cherry Nymph

Blooming in as little as eight weeks, Cherry Nymph is one the best giant red amaryllis for growth through the holiday season and also amongst the best winter flowers for pots once the holidays end. Growers can expect strong, sturdy stems, capable of holding multiple flowers each. The plant's beauty is further enhanced by its fully-double form, opening to reveal an abundance of highly-saturated red petals.

2. Desire

Desire amaryllis are known for their bright orange-red color. Large, single flowers are held high above stems, evoking a sense of joy and adding vibrancy to indoor spaces. As each bulb will begin blooming eight-ten weeks from planting, this variety is a good choice for holiday porch plants and beyond, so you can enjoy the beauty of amaryllis throughout the winter season. Especially tall plants may require staking.

3. Double Dragon

Prized for their true-red tones, Double Dragon amaryllises always garner attention for anyone after fancy flowers other than poinsettias as striking seasonal bloomers. Compact plants that are ideal for use in containers, these perform well through the holidays. Displays can often continue through the new year due to their impressive long-lived blooms. Each flower has a double habit, allowing for a fuller, ruffled look.

4. Double King

Another attractive double-form type, Double King is known for its flower production. Gardeners can expect large numbers of blooms, often more than four per stem, so you might need to stake amaryllis plants. Bright red flowers take on a more formal appearance, with petals demonstrating consistent arrangement and symmetry. Staggered bloom further extends floral displays, persisting well over several weeks.

5. Ferrari

True to its name, Ferrari remains a favorite of those in search of rapid growth. Those planting the variety for the first time can expect flowers in as little as five-six weeks, making them ideal for use in holiday decor and gifting. For anyone looking for giant amaryllis varieties, this plant produces large, single blooms which unfurl to reveal brilliant shades of cardinal red with prominent yellow stamens.

6. Mandela

Mandela amaryllis are most noted for their deep burgundy tones and soft, velvet appearance. Their ease of care and beauty in home decor further lends to their popularity as some of the best winter indoor plants over the holidays and beyond, with many opting to plant this fast-growing type. As the buds set early, most bulbs will begin to open in as little as five-six weeks from planting.

7. Royal Velvet

Inspired by its lush appearance and maroon flowers, Royal Velvet amaryllis is unmatched in color. Large yellow stamens contrast against deep burgundy petals, giving each bloom added depth and dimension. Its flowers persist through the holiday season, opening over several weeks. Their small stature and compact growth habit further lend themselves to indoor growth and use in holiday decor.

8. Red Lion

Rated among the best traditional types for holiday varieties with real staying power into the depths of winter, Red Lion offers impressive red amaryllis flower color and hardiness. This variety is highly productive, with each plant producing multiple stems per bulb. Though it’s suited for the holiday season, an early start is essential, as each will require at least 12 weeks from planting before they bloom.

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• Craving the hottest houseplant ideas for your home this year? Read our houseplant trends to discover the super-stunning indoor kings to boss those interior spaces.

Amaryllis is a popular flowering bulb that’s typically grown indoors and forced to bloom in winter. The large, striking flowers that sit atop tall, straight stems bring cheer in the colder months. Traditionally, we tend to see lots of red types of amaryllis on display in windowsills and dining arrangements. However, new varieties of white amaryllis plants are changing the picture, both during the holidays and over winter.

Show the right amaryllis care and these winter beauties are easy to grow. Provide good potting soil, regular water and bright, indirect light, and the bulb will grow and bloom. You can even keep the bulbs dormant and get them to bloom again the following year. Here are some of the great new white amaryllis plant types to try for something a little different during the chillier months of the year.

Choosing the Best White Amaryllis Varieties

For lovers of white flowers to grow, the good news is that white amaryllis flowers are becoming easier to find, with new varieties available all the time. You can find white mixed with other colors, double white amaryllis flowers, and more besides.

In addition to variations of coloring and petal type, white amaryllis bulbs differ in how many stems and flowers they develop, how productively they bloom, and even their size. Here are some great ideas to get you started forcing bulbs this winter.

1. White Amadeus

White Amadeus is another double-petalled amaryllis variety. The white is a little creamier and less pure white than Akiko's coloring. The flowers are very large with a little bit of green in the center. For anyone familiar with pink amaryllis varieties, Amadeus Candy is a similar variety with a blush of deep raspberry pink on the tips of the otherwise white petals. White Amadeus may have just a touch of pink on the tips. Both have flowers that can be as big as 10 inches (25cm) across.

2. Akiko

Like most amaryllis bulbs grown in indoor containers, Akiko belongs to the Hippeastrum genus, a group of flowers native to South America. Akiko is one of the purest white of all varieties with a touch of green in the throat of the flower. These are large, doubled-petalled blooms. Each bulb produces at least two stems with four flowers each. These striking white flowers make gorgeous winter indoor plants and look pretty alone or mixed with darker or brighter red amaryllis.

3. Mont Blanc

Another pure white stunner, Mont Blanc is a single-petalled white amaryllis flower with slightly ruffled edges and a pale, lime green center. The flowers are trumpet-shaped and look more like lilies than many other varieties. Each bulb produces multiple blooms on sturdy stems. If you love unusual cutting garden arrangements, these blooms make excellent cut flowers for ornamental displays.

4. White Garden

For a single-petalled variety with pristine white flowers touched by a little green in the throat, you can't go wrong with White Garden. This is a multiflora type, with each bulb producing more than one stem and multiple flowers. While the double-petalled white amaryllis varieties, like bearded white iris varieties, are showy and striking, the clean lines of this single-petalled amaryllis are very elegant. The flowers are smaller than those of many other varieties, at just about five inches (13cm) across.

5. Arctic Nymph

Nymph is a group of varieties developed to reliably produce large, double-petalled flowers on very sturdy stems. These properties have made them as popular as many high yield flowers, and they now come in different colors. The original Nymph is mostly white with pink stripes. Bright Nymph is similar to the original but with darker pink or red stripes. White Nymph is pure white, while Arctic Nymph has a snowy cast and a green throat.

6. Christmas Gift

Christmas Gift is another single-petalled variety but with bigger blooms, up to seven or eight inches (18-20cm) across. This breed is a highly impressive choice if you are after holiday amaryllis varieties to grow. The stems are tall and sturdy enough to hold the large flowers, growing up to 25 inches (64cm). As well as being a great holiday gift, this white amaryllis makes a pretty addition to holiday décor and blooms reliably.

7. Picotee

This is a uniquely colored amaryllis. It's single-petaled and pure white, with delicate red or pink edges. The colored margins are very thin as if drawn on by a fine point marker. They may have a little blush of pink in the middle of the petals as well. The flowers are four or five inches (10-13cm) wide.

8. Blossom Peacock

For growers who adore pink flowers as well as whites, choose Blossom Peacock for a little more pink with your white amaryllis. The double petals are mostly white with rosy, pink edges. They are not as full or dense as some double-petalled varieties, but this gives Blossom Peacock a more elegant look. Each amaryllis bulb produces two or three stems with up to six flowers each.

With its vibrant color and enchanting bloom, an amaryllis is a much-welcomed addition to indoor spaces. This is especially true through the holiday season, and winter, when these plants are most commonly forced into flower. Giant amaryllis varieties are of special interest, due to their general ease of growth and magnificent floral displays. But, what does it take to grow your own potted specimens? In this guide, we will take a closer look at selecting your own bulbs and how to care for the giant amaryllis.

Choosing the Best Giant Amaryllis Varieties

In general, the term “giant” amaryllis plant is used to refer to the size of bulbs. Giant or jumbo sizes are among the largest available to growers. With holiday amaryllis varieties, the bulb size will correlate directly to the production of flowers and the overall size of forced plants, so you can expect larger bulbs to yield the greatest number of stems and flowers.

Though their blooms can vary, these amaryllis will generally result in the growth of at least 2-3 flower stems, producing multiple buds each. In addition to size, gardeners should consider color and weeks to maturity when selecting varieties that best suit their needs.

1. Luna Jumbo

Luna Jumbo remains among the best giant amaryllis bulbs if you’re in search of crisp color. Its large flowers open in groups of four, each petal ranging in pristine shades of chartreuse and white. Single flowers lend themselves well to formal decor, allowing for a more modern, clean aesthetic. The plants grow quickly, bursting to bloom in as little as 4-5 weeks from planting. This makes the variety ideal for use throughout the holiday season and in gifting.

2. Pink Rival Jumbo

Unmatched in terms of color, Pink Rival Jumbo amaryllis plants will dazzle guests with their striking magenta hues. Its pink blooms open quickly, with single flowers spanning approximately 7 in. (18 cm) across. These plants are well-suited to forcing throughout the holiday season, provided the bulbs are given an early start. Though the variety is most traditionally grown indoors, outdoor gardeners have found amaryllis care possible in USDA zones 8-10.

3. Red Pearl Jumbo

Red Pearl Jumbo is most treasured for its striking black-burgundy color. Single red petals unfurl to reveal attractive, velvety throats and yellow stamens. Expect jumbo bulbs of this type to produce multiple stems, each with even larger clusters of flowers. These plants will generally begin to bloom approximately 8-12 weeks from planting, making the variety a good choice for extending the flowering period of potted amaryllis plants through winter.

4. Rose Quartz

Found throughout the holiday season, Rose Quartz remains among the most favored pink giant amaryllis flowers. With jumbo-sized bulbs, it will dependably produce 2-3 flower spikes, each maturing in as little as 7-9 weeks from planting. Compact plants are ideal for use in tablescapes and holiday decor, adding a warm festive feel to gatherings.

5. Stardust Jumbo

The Stardust Jumbo amaryllis has a unique, candy-like coloration. Its flowers open to reveal crisp white petals, streaked with brilliant red-pink markings. Since this variety will bloom approximately 7-9 weeks from planting, it’s a good choice for enlivening indoor spaces throughout the holidays. Gardeners have also found success maintaining the plant outdoors throughout USDA zones 8-10.

6. Terra Cotta Star Jumbo

Terra Cotta Star Jumbo amaryllis are beloved for their soft, pastel tones. Blooming in as little as 7-9 weeks, delicate single flowers are held high atop sturdy stems. Though these plants may benefit from additional support, it is only seldom required.

Like other holiday types, forced plants like amaryllis can be allowed to grow throughout the remainder of winter to encourage them to rebloom.