Do different colored carrots taste different? If you've ever been enticed to purchase or plant rainbow carrots because they look so pretty, you may be wondering if these multi-colored veggies are really worth the extra money. Does color really affect the taste?

What Do Rainbow Carrots Taste Like?

When rainbow carrots first hit the market, they were accepted by many as novelty veggies. Retailers charged higher prices for these colorful root vegetables and consumers literally ate them up. What many people didn't realize is that before the 16th century, orange carrots didn't exist. Back then, purple was the most popular color.

Orange carrots were bred using varieties of purple, red, white and yellow carrots. Over the centuries, orange carrots became the color of choice. One reason for this rise in popularity is that purple carrots taste different than orange ones.

In fact, each color of carrots in a rainbow pack should have a slightly different flavor. Next time you purchase or harvest rainbow carrots, see if you can detect these differences.

What Does a Red Carrot Taste Like?

Red carrots are the most similar in flavor to orange carrots. Some varieties can have earthy overtones, while others rival the sweetness of orange carrots. The red pigment comes from lycopene, the same antioxidant found in tomatoes. If you like the flavor of red carrots, try these varieties:

• Atomic Red – A very bright red, imperator-type carrot. The color intensifies when cooked.
• Kyoto Red – Noted for its sweet, caramel-like flavor and scarlet color, this Japanese heirloom variety does best when planted in the fall.
• Malbec – Excellent for roasting, the salmon-colored Malbec is an imperator hybrid variety with exceptional flavor and good disease resistance.
• Nutri-Red – Although earthy when eaten raw, cooking intensifies the pinkish color and improves the flavor of this imperator-type carrot.

What Do Purple Carrots Taste Like?

Overall, purple carrots have a spicier, somewhat peppery flavor as compared to orange ones. Some varieties are sweet, but purple carrots can also have a woodier texture. They offer different health benefits as the purple pigment is due to high levels of anthocyanin, the same antioxidant found in blueberries.

• Black Nebula – A very dark and antioxidant rich carrot which retains its color when cooked. Expect a sweet flavor that's reminiscent of berries.
• Cosmic Purple – The vivid orange interior hidden beneath the bright purple skin makes this nantes-type ideal for slicing. It imparts an earthy, sweet flavor with hints of spiciness
• Deep Purple – Imperator-type carrot with purple color throughout and an earthy flavor. Excellent for juicing.
• Purple Haze – A sweet imperator-type carrot with purple skin and an orange interior. To retain the color, serve raw or lightly sautéed.

What Do Yellow Carrots Taste Like?

Yellow carrots tend to be sweeter than orange ones, but with fruitier overtones. When cooked, yellow carrots can have a sugary earthiness much like a sweet potato. Yellow carrots contain lutein, a carotenoid pigment that is associated with eye health benefits.

• Amarillo – Crunchy, juicy and sweet describe this bright yellow heirloom variety. Amarillo remains sweet when cooked.
• Gold Nugget – A nantes-type hybrid which produces uniform carrots with excellent flavor.
• Solar Yellow – Heirloom, danvers-type carrot with buttery yellow roots. Harvest young for fresh consumption or after a frost for more intense flavor when cooked.
• Yellowbunch – A canary yellow, hybrid, imperator-type carrot with good storage capacity and resistance to alternaria blight.

What Does a White Carrot Taste Like?

White carrots have the mildest and sweetest flavor of all the colors. They are wonderful when eaten raw, but white carrots don't contain color pigments such as beta-carotene or anthocyanin. It's best to hill light colored carrots to prevent the shoulders from turning green.

• Lunar White – A very popular heirloom variety which has a mild carrot flavor.
• Snow White – Similar flavor to Lunar White, but this open-pollinated variety takes a bit longer to reach maturity.
• White Satin – Bred for flavor as well as uniformity, this nantes-imperator hybrid carrot averages 8 to 9 inches (20-23 cm.) long and is adaptable to different growing conditions.

Companion planting is a method used to obtain a well-balanced garden wherein symbiotic plants are grouped close together. Just as there are good combinations when companion planting, so too there are detrimental plantings. Take carrot companion planting for instance. There are beneficial carrot companion plants and others that react badly in close proximity. 

About Carrot Companion Planting

Companion planting creates a more diverse garden with the benefits of sharing nutrients efficiently, repelling pests and attracting beneficial pollinators. 

A companion planting of carrots and onions for instance is a long standing tradition, wherein the aroma of the onions deters the carrot root fly and the smell of the carrots repels onion fly from the onions. Another option to plant to repel carrot fly is mint. It is thought that the strong scent from this herb and alliums repel the fly, although there is no scientific data and this method may be best combined with creating a barrier to deter the fly. 

On the other hand, dill, celery and root parsnips and potato are not considered good companion plants for carrots. Root crops all require high levels of phosphorous, thus planting root crops close together leads to competition for nutrients and a less vigorous yield. 

Dill can cross pollinate with carrots leading to less than savory hybrids. Carrots can increase the likelihood that parasitic wasps and lacewings are attracted to dill and parsley. 

Carrot Companion Plants

With the exception of the above, most crops are suited as carrot companion plants. These include lettuce, chives, onions, peas, radishes, cabbage, leeks and herb such as sage and rosemary. 

A carrot and tomato companion planting is especially beneficial. Carrots like things a bit cooler, so growing them beneath the protective leaves of a tomato plant keeps the roots cool. Intermix with lettuce and onion to maximize space. The varying root depths allow a smaller area to utilize water and nutrients efficiently. 

Growing carrots in the heat of summer is a difficult endeavor. Carrots are a cool-season crop that typically needs between three and four months to reach maturity. They are slow to germinate in cool weather and sprout best when the ambient temperature is around 70 F. (21 C.).

When maturing in warm weather, carrots often have a bitter taste and lack the sweetness of those grown at cooler temperatures. The ideal temperature for the development of fat, sweet-tasting carrots is approximately 40 F. (4 C.). Ideally, carrots are sown when it's warm and mature when it's cool.

Growing Carrots in Hot Climates

Gardeners in states like Florida may be wondering if it's even possible to grow carrots in the South. The answer is yes, so let's take a look at the best methods for growing carrots in hot climates.

Whether you're growing carrots in the South or you're a northern gardener trying to produce carrots in the heat of the summer, the key to obtaining sweet-tasting roots is knowing when to plant them. Of course, this will vary depending upon where you live.

For the best-tasting carrots, sow when the soil is warm and time the planting so the carrots will mature at cooler temperatures. For northern gardeners, sowing in late summer and harvesting in the fall is the best approach. Southern farmers will have the most success by sowing in the fall for a winter harvest.

Tips for Warm Weather Carrots

Once the carrot seedlings are established, keeping the soil cool will promote faster growth and sweeter-tasting roots. Try these tips when growing warm-weather carrots:

• Planting depth: Sowing in warmer temperatures usually means planting seeds in dryer soil. Try sowing carrot seeds ½ to ¾ inches (1.5 to 2 cm.) deep when soil moisture levels are lower.
• Soil density: Root vegetables grow faster in loose, loamy, or sandy soils. To lighten heavy soil in carrot beds, incorporate sand, low-nitrogen compost, wood shavings, shredded leaf mulch, or chopped straw. Avoid adding animal manures as these are often nitrogen-rich.
• Shade: Carrots require six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. Providing afternoon shade or planting in filtered light can give carrots the amount of light they need while keeping soil temperatures lower during the hottest part of the day. Shade netting is one method of providing filtered light.
• Water levels: Strive to maintain a consistently moist soil in the carrot bed. Watering reduces soil temperature through evaporative cooling.
• Avoid crusty soil: Intense heat and sunlight can quickly evaporate the moisture from the top layers of the ground causing it to form a hard crust. This makes it difficult for root vegetables to penetrate the soil and fully develop. Using a thin layer of sand or vermiculite can keep the top layer of soil from turning crusty.
• Mulch: This not only keeps weeds at bay, but also reduces soil temperatures and retains moisture. Nitrogen-rich mulches promote foliage growth and should be avoided when growing root crops. Instead, try mulching carrots with grass clippings, leaves, or shredded paper.
• Grow heat tolerant carrots: Romance is an orange variety of carrot which is well noted for its heat tolerance. Carrot plants can also be chosen for shorter maturity dates. Nantes are ready to harvest in about 62 days as are Little Finger, a baby carrot variety.

For many gardeners, one of the most exciting aspects of planning seasonal vegetable garden crops is the process of selecting new and interesting varieties of seed. When thumbing through seed catalogs, pages filled with unique and colorful cultivars can be quite enticing. While this is the case for many vegetables, it is especially true when growers begin the process of selecting which carrots to grow in the upcoming season, as there are many. Let’s learn more about the different types of carrots.

Becoming Familiar with Different Carrots to Grow

Carrots of both the hybrid and heirloom variety come in a wide array of shapes, sizes, colors, and tastes. Though diversity among carrot varieties is an asset, many of these are seldom offered in chain grocery stores. With so many options, finding kinds of carrots that are suited to the specific needs of growers is a task worth accomplishing.

By learning more about each type of carrot, home growers can make better-informed decisions regarding which types will grow well in their own gardens.

Types of Carrots

Nantes – Nantes carrots are most commonly known for their long, cylindrical shape and blunt ends. Growing well in a wide range of conditions, robust Nantes types grow well in areas where it may be difficult for different carrots to grow. This includes gardens with heavier soils containing more clay. Due to this fact, Nantes carrots are often a popular choice with home gardeners.

Types of Nantes carrot varieties include:

• Scarlet Nantes
• Napoli
• Bolero
• White Satin

Imperator – Imperator carrots are a very common choice for commercial carrot farmers due to their high sugar content. These carrots tend to grow much longer than many other types.

Carrot cultivars included within this type include:

• Atomic Red
• Cosmic Red
• Tendersweet
• Autumn King

Chantenay – Much like Nantes carrot plant types, Chantenay carrots do well when grown in less than ideal soils. For the best results, make certain to harvest these robust roots early. This will ensure consistently sweet and tender carrots.

Chantenay carrot varieties include:

• Red Cored Chantenay
• Royal Chantenay
• Hercules

Danvers – This adaptable root vegetable has little core and is nicely tapered in shape and size with a deep orange color and rich flavor. Danver carrots are popular for their ease of care and typically perform better than many others in their ability to form nice roots even in heavy, shallow soils.

Danvers 126 and Danvers Half-Long are most commonly planted.

Miniature carrots – This type of carrot generally includes roots that are harvested before growing too large. While some may grow only to small sizes, others within this category may also grow to form round radish-like roots. These “baby” carrots are great alternatives for home gardeners, as they can easily be planted in containers.

Miniature and round carrot varieties include:

• Paris Market
• Babette
• Thumbelina
• Little Finger
• Short 'n' Sweet

Nothing strikes fear into the heart of a gardener than the sign of a leaf blight, which can have a very devastating impact to the vitality and even edibility of your vegetable crops. When leaf spots or lesions start to appear, you may be uncertain how to identify the leaf blight or how to quell its spread. This is what happened to me when I first observed carrots with leaf blight in my garden. I asked myself, “Is this cercospora leaf spot of carrot or something else?” and “What was the proper carrot leaf spot treatment?”. The answer lies in this article.

Cercospora Leaf Blight in Carrots

First things first, just what is carrot leaf spot? Generally speaking, it’s when you observe dead, or necrotic, spots on your carrot’s leaves. A closer examination of these spots will help you determine the type of the leaf blight that is afflicting your carrots and the course of action you should take. There are actually three leaf blights that come into play for carrots that are either fungal (Alternaria dauci and Cercospora carotae) or bacterial (Xanthomonas campestris pv. carotae) in nature. Upon visual inspection, I was able to definitely diagnose cercospora leaf spot of carrot in my garden. The spots, or lesions, were cream or gray colored with sharp, dark-brownish colored margins. On the interior of the carrot leaves, these lesions were circular in shape, while along the leaf margin they were more elongated. Eventually, all these lesions coalesced or merged together, resulting in the death of the leaves. Leaf blight can also be observed on the leaf petioles and stems, which leads to the girdling of these leaf parts and the consequent death of the leaves. Younger leaves and plants tend to be the target of cercospora leaf blight in carrots, which is why it’s more prevalent earlier on in the growing season. Cercospora leaf blight in carrots only affects the foliage of the plant so the fleshy root beneath the ground is still edible. While you may think this absolves you of having to worry about this, think again. Plants weakened by disease are not only unsightly, they also aren’t great producers. Leaf area can impact carrot root size. The less healthy leaf mass you have, the less photosynthesis that takes place, resulting in carrots that may not form at all or only reach a fraction of their size potential. And it might prove a bit more difficult harvesting carrots with leaf blight that have a weakened leaf structure - more digging, and less grasping and pulling of the leaf top, will be required. Not to mention that you don’t want the stink eye from your neighbors. Carrot fungi can develop infectious spores that are carried by the wind and water, landing onto and potentially infiltrating your neighbor’s plants. Now you’re back to caring about this issue. So, what is the carrot leaf spot treatment, you ask?

Carrot Leaf Spot Treatment and Prevention

When you consider the fact that cercospora leaf spot of carrot develops during long periods of moisture on foliage, there are measures you can take to prevent it. Good garden hygiene is paramount. Resist overcrowding when planting your garden – facilitate aeration by allowing some space between them. When watering, try doing so early in the day and consider the use of drip irrigation to ensure you are only watering at the base of the plant. Cercospora leaf blight can overwinter in diseased plant debris for up to two years, so removing and destroying (not composting) infected plants is a good practice in conjunction with practicing 2- to 3-year crop rotations. Wild, perennial plants such as Queen Anne’s lace are also carriers of this blight, so keeping your garden (and surrounding areas) free of weeds is recommended. Lastly, the cercospora pathogen is also seedborne so you may want to consider planting more disease tolerant varieties such as Apache, Early Gold, or Bolero, to name a few. With cercospora leaf blight in carrots, early detection is key. You will have the best chance of successful treatment by implementing a preventative fungicide program with a spray interval of 7 to 10 days upon detection (shorten this interval to 5 to 7 days in wet weather conditions). Fungicides with active ingredients such as copper, chlorothalonil, or propiconazole may prove most effective.

Mae West was quoted as saying "The only carrots that interest me are the number you get in a diamond." Okay, she was referring to carats and while diamonds may be a girl's best friend, carrots should run a close second. This is because carrots are not only naturally sweet and low in calories (can I hear an "amen"), but rich in beta-carotenes, falcarinol, vitamin A, minerals and anti-oxidants. Always on the lookout for a healthy, sweet snack, growing heirloom carrots is a great place to start, especially the Chantenay carrot.

History of Chantenay Carrots

An heirloom variety of carrots, Chantenay carrot plants were developed during the 18th century in, you guessed it, the Chantenay region of France and were first introduced in the seed catalog of Vilmorin Andrieus. Originally, Chantenay carrots were grown for their medicinal uses, but as time went on, their popularity as a culinary carrot soared. Unfortunately, during the 60's, this popularity took a nosedive as the Chantenay fell out of favor. Today, however, these medium to almost stubby carrots are making a comeback as culinary favorites once again. This is in large part due to the resurgence in interest for heirlooms and also for some new varieties of Chantenay on the market. These nicely tapered carrots are hardy enough to withstand cold, shallow soils, and are disease and pest resistant. While they are lighter orange and coarser than other carrots, their short sturdy shape makes them favorites for processing.

Growing Heirloom Chantenay Carrots

There are two major types of Chantenay seeds available: Red-cored, with a redder core and blunt tip, and Royal Chantenay, with and orange/red core and tapered tip. Both should be directly sown into the garden in the spring after all danger of frost has passed for your region. Plant Chantenay carrots in the spring for a midsummer harvest and then again in the midsummer for a successive fall harvest. Chantenay produce the sweetest, most tender roots in cooler weather so folks in warm climates may grow them during the winter.

Carrot leaf blight is a common problem that can be traced to several different pathogens. Since the source can vary, it’s important to understand what you’re looking at in order to best treat it. Keep reading to learn more about what causes carrot leaf blight and how to manage various carrot leaf blight diseases.

What Causes Carrot Leaf Blight?

Leaf blight in carrots can be grouped into three different categories: alternaria leaf blight, cercospora leaf blight, and bacterial leaf blight. Bacterial leaf blight (Xanthomonas campestris pv. carotae) is a very common disease that thrives and spreads in moist environments. It begins as small, yellow to light brown, angular spots on the edges of the leaves. The underside of the spot has a shiny, varnished quality. With time these spots lengthen, dry out, and deepen to dark brown or black with a water soaked, yellow halo. Leaves may take on a curled shape. Alternaria leaf blight (Alternaria dauci) appears as dark brown to black, irregularly shaped spots with yellow margins. These spots usually appear on the lower leaves of the plant. Cercospora leaf blight (Cercospora carotae) appears as tan, circular spots with sharp, definite borders. All three of these carrot leaf blight diseases can kill the plant if allowed to spread.

Carrot Leaf Blight Control

Of the three carrot leaf blight diseases, bacterial leaf blight is the most serious. The disease can quickly explode into an epidemic in hot, wet conditions, so any evidence of symptoms should lead to immediate treatment. Cercospora and alternaria leaf blight are less critical but should still be treated. They can often all be prevented by encouraging air circulation, avoiding overhead watering, encouraging drainage, and planting certified disease-free seed. Carrots should be planted in rotation and grown in the same spot at most once every three years. Fungicides can be use both to prevent and to treat these diseases.

A carrot disease that coincides with warm temperatures close to harvest is called carrot southern blight. What is southern blight on carrots? Read on to learn how to identify carrots with southern blight and if there are any methods of southern blight carrot control.

What is Southern Blight on Carrots?

Carrot southern blight is a fungus (Sclerotium rolfsii) that is associated with warm temperatures following heavy rains. While a fairly minor disease in the home garden, southern blight is a more major problem for commercial growers. This is because the fungus affects a diverse group of crops (over 500 species!), especially those grown in tropical to subtropical regions and survives for long periods in the soil.

Symptoms of Carrots with Southern Blight

This fungal disease is characterized by the soft, watery decay of the taproot near or at the soil line. The tops of the carrots wilt and may yellow as the disease progresses and mats of white mycelium grow on the root and soil surrounding the carrot. Small resting structures (sclerotia) develop on the mats of mycelium. Wilting may be misdiagnosed as being caused by Fusarium or Verticullum; however, in the case of southern blight infection, the leaves usually remain green. Bacterial wilt may also be suspected, but unlike bacterial wilt, the tell-tale mat of mycelium around the carrot is a clear sign of S. rolfsii. Once the fungus is apparent on the soil’s surface, the carrot has already rotted.

Southern Blight Carrot Control

Southern blight is difficult to control since it does infect so many hosts and easily survives in the soil for lengthy periods of time. Crop rotation becomes part of an integrated method of controlling the disease. Along with crop rotation, use disease free or resistant transplants and cultivars when southern blight has been diagnosed. Deeply plow under or destroy any diseased plants. Be aware that even when plowing under, the soil-borne pathogens may yet survive and create future outbreaks. Amending the soil with organic fertilizers, composts, and biological controls may help control southern blight. Combine these amendments with deep plowing. If the disease is severe, consider solarizing the area. Sclerotia can be destroyed in 4-6 hours at 122 F. (50 C.) and in only 3 hours at 131 F. (55 C.). Water and cover the infected area of soil with clear polyethylene sheeting during warm summer months to reduce the number of Sclerotia, and thus the incidence of southern blight.

There are many soil-borne pathogens that can cause damping off in carrot seedlings. This most often occurs in periods of cool, wet weather. The most common culprits are fungi, which live in soil and are active when conditions favor them. If you see carrot seedlings failing, the culprit is likely one of these fungi. If you have recently planted and are asking, "Why are my carrot seedlings dying?", read on for some answers.

Why are My Carrot Seedlings Dying?

Newly emerged seedlings are prey to many problems, from cutworms to disease. Damping off in carrots is a prevalent condition and one that can ruin your crop. Carrots with damping off fungus die as the fungus attacks stems and roots. The good news is you can minimize the chances of getting a fungal disease with good hygiene and cultural practices. Learning what causes carrot damping off and how to prevent the disease is the first step. While damping off is a common problem in many types of seedlings, identification can help you correct the problem in the future. Carrot seedlings failing from this problem often exhibit limp stems, wilting, browning, and falling over. The responsible party for damping off lives in the soil and can often persist for years, so crop rotation does little to help unless you choose a variety that is not susceptible. Several fungi can cause damping off such as Alternaria, Pythium, Fusarium, and Rhizoctonia. During periods of wet, cloudy weather, the fungi bloom and produce spores that spread easily in newly planted areas.

Treating Damping Off in Carrots

Carrots with damping off fungus should immediately stop being watered for a while. Allow the soil to dry a little around the little plants. This may stop the fungus in its tracks. Watering with a chemical that treats fungal diseases may halt the progression. Copper drenches are especially useful on crops like carrots. After mixing the copper dust with water, drench the soil around the roots as well as the plants. There is some information that a drench of potassium permanganate at a rate of 1 ounce (29.5 mL.) to 4 gallons of water (15 L.) is also useful and can be used on a variety of plants. Indoor plants in flats or pots should receive better air circulation and bright light. Outdoor plants should be thinned.

Preventing Damping Off Fungus

Stopping the fungus before it attacks the seedlings is the best option. Plant in a raised bed that drains well and avoid overwatering. Sterilizing or using sanitized soil in the greenhouse can also prevent the fungus. To sterilize soil, place in a non-metal pan and place in the microwave. Cook the soil for 2 ½ minutes. Let the soil cool thoroughly before using it to plant. If you can get a hold of Formalin, it is also useful to disinfect the soil. Additionally, disinfect any containers used for planting. Use practices such as long crop rotation of up to 4 years, pathogen-free seed, and remove and destroy any leftover plant material that may harbor the disease.

Garden diseases are the bane of any gardener, especially when they threaten our food crops. Root knot nematodes in carrots are a major pathogen which also affects other food crops, such as onions and lettuce. Carrots affected by root knot nematodes display malformed, stubby, hairy roots. The carrots are still edible, but they are ugly and distorted with tough galls and thick skin. Additionally, root knot nematodes reduce yield. Root knot nematode control is possible through several corrective measures.

Carrot Root Knot Nematode Info?

If you have discovered your carrot patch is yielding stumpy, rough looking, forked roots, you probably have a root knot nematode infestation. This pathogen is common in root crops but also in celery and lettuce. Symptoms vary slightly by plant variety, but in all cases crop production is reduced and the food looks unsightly. Root knot nematodes in carrots are particularly prevalent in northern regions. The good news is that you can control the pathogen to a certain extent. Nematodes are tiny roundworms not visible with the naked eye. It takes a soil sample to positively identify the pests. They live in soil and feed on plant cells through several developing stages. The second stage juveniles are the only mobile stage and enter the roots. Later stages and adults become larger as the carrot root enlarges. Any stage of nematode feeds on cells by piercing it with a mouthpart called a stylet. Females will break through the root and deposit eggs, which form galls. These become woody, hard and nearly unpalatable. There are almost 90 different nematode species that are directly associated with carrot development.

Symptoms of Carrot Root Knot Nematodes

Recognizing parasitic nematodes in carrots is fairly obvious once you dig the roots up. On the surface of the soil, the foliage will be stubby and not well formed. Occasionally, it will also wilt. The roots will split and fork, looking like bizarre caricatures of possessed carrots. Some interesting forms appear but, overall, carrots affected by root knot nematodes will produce less edible roots, which are stunted and ugly. In commercial growing, this represents less dollar yield and the roots collect more soil, requiring more extensive cleaning before the roots can be marketed. In the home garden, the less attractive roots can still be used, but some parts will be woody and preparation is more intense as opposed to the easily cleaned and peeled roots that are uninfected.

Root Knot Nematode Control

The most common treatments are crop rotation and allowing a field to lay fallow. Good sanitation practices such as cleaning machinery and tools is also useful. In some cases, solarization for 4 to 6 weeks can kill populations of some nematodes. There are also several resistant crops that may be planted or a non-host plant can be installed. Such plants might be rye, fescue, corn, wheat, barley or sorghum. At this time, there are no resistant carrot varieties, but trials are underway and very soon these should be released. There are a few soil fumigants that can be used up to 6 weeks before planting. They can be quite effective when used properly.

An unsightly, but manageable, disease of carrots is called carrot powdery mildew. Learn how to identify powdery mildew symptoms and how to manage powdery mildew of carrot plants.

About Powdery Mildew of Carrot

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that is favored by dry weather with high humidity and temperatures during morning and evening hours with temperatures between 55 and 90 degrees F. (13-32 C.). The pathogen also infects related plants such as celery, chervil, dill, parsley, and parsnip of the family Apiacae. While studies have shown that 86 cultivated and weedy plants are susceptible, a particular pathogen strain is not able to infect all host plants. The pathogen affecting carrots is called Erysiphe heraclei.

Powdery Mildew Symptoms on Carrots

Carrot powdery mildew presents itself as a white, powdery growth appearing on older leaves and leaf petioles. Symptoms usually appear when leaves are mature, although young leaves may be afflicted as well. The typical onset starts about seven weeks after seeding. On new leaves, small, circular, white powdery spots appear. These slowly enlarge and eventually cover the young leaf. Sometimes a slight yellowing or chlorosis accompanies the infection. Even when heavily infected, leaves often survive.

How to Manage Powdery Mildew of Carrot

This fungus survives on overwintered carrots and Apiacae related weed hosts. The spores are spread by the wind and can spread a great distance. Plants are most susceptible when grown in shady areas or when drought stressed. The best method for control is, of course, to avoid conditions that foster contamination. Use resistant cultivars and practice crop rotation. Avoid drought stress by adequately irrigating overhead. Avoid using excessive nitrogen fertilizer. Manage the disease with fungicide applications made at 10 to 14 day intervals according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Aster yellows disease is a disease caused by a mycoplasma organism that is carried to its host plants by the aster or six-spotted leafhopper (Macrosteles fascifrons). This organism affects 300 different species within 40 plant families. Of the host crops afflicted, the largest losses of up to 80% are attributed to aster yellows of carrots and lettuce. How does aster yellows present in carrots? The following article contains information on aster yellows symptoms, specifically carrot aster yellows and its control.

Aster Yellows Symptoms

While aster yellows is found in carrots, it is by no means the only species afflicted. Any of the following commercially grown crops may become infected with aster yellows:

• Broccoli
• Buckwheat
• Cabbage
• Cauliflower
• Celery
• Endive
• Flax
• Lettuce
• Onion
• Parsley
• Potato
• Parsnip
• Pumpkin
• Red clover
• Salsify
• Spinach
• Strawberry
• Tomato

Yellowing of foliage is the first sign of aster yellows disease and is often accompanied by resetting of leaves and stunting of the plant. This is followed by excessive growth with numerous secondary shoots. Mature leaves become contorted and may drop from the plant. Older leaves may also have a slightly reddish, brown, or even purplish cast. Main branches are shorter than normal. Roots are affected, becoming misshapen. Flower parts may develop into leafy structures and seed will usually be sterile. In the case of carrot aster yellows, taproots become excessively hairy, tapered, and pale in color. The root will also have an unpleasant bitter flavor, rendering it inedible.

How is Aster Yellows in Carrots Transmitted?

Aster yellows overwinters in infected perennial and biennial hosts. It can afflict plants in greenhouses, bulbs, corms, tubers, and other propagative stock. Many perennial weeds serve as overwintering hosts, such as:

• Thistle
• Plantain
• Wild carrot
• Chicory
• Dandelion
• Fleabane
• Wild lettuce
• Daisies
• Black-eyed Susan
• Rough cinquefoil

Although aster yellows of carrots may be transmitted by the six spotted leafhopper, there are actually 12 different species of leafhopper that may transmit the organism to healthy plants. Symptoms of aster yellows will show in infected plants 10 to 40 days after leafhopper feeding. The disease usually occurs infrequently and with little economic loss, but it can be serious if dry weather forces leafhoppers to move on from feeding on wild weeds to irrigated fields.

How to Control Aster Yellows of Carrots

First, use only healthy seed, seedlings, or plants. Keep the area around the plants free from weeds where leafhoppers like to lurk. If need be, spray weeds surrounding the garden with an insecticide. Avoid rotating susceptible crops. Destroy any overwintering volunteer plants. Don’t plant near crops that have the disease and destroy any infected plants as soon as symptoms appear.

Black root rot of carrots is a nasty fungal disease that plagues gardeners around the world. Once established, carrot black root rot is difficult to eradicate and chemicals are of little use. However, there are steps you can take to minimize the damage and slow the spread of disease. Read on to learn more about black root rot in carrots.

Signs of Black Root Rot of Carrots

Carrots with black root rot typically display a black or brown, decayed ring at the top of the carrot, at the point where the leaves are attached. The disease results in wilting, stunted growth and carrots that break off in the soil when pulled. Carrot black root rot can affect carrots at any stage of growth. It can show up on seedlings, and may appear during storage, evidenced by decay and black lesions that can spread to healthy carrots.

Causes of Carrot Black Root Rot

Carrot black root rot fungus is often present in infected seeds. Once established, spores can live in plant debris as long as eight years. The disease is favored by wet leaves and damp weather, especially when temperatures are above 65 degrees F. (18 C.) Sprinkler irrigation and rainfall contribute to spread of root rot in carrots. Additionally, black root rot of carrots is more common in alkaline soil.

Treating Carrots with Black Root Rot

Since treatment isn’t really an option, preventing black root rot of carrots is important. Start with certified disease-free seeds. If that’s not possible, soak seeds in hot water, 115 to 150 degrees F. (46-65 C.), for 30 minutes before planting. Maintain soil at a pH level near 5.5 to reduce infections. (Soil tests are available at most garden centers). There are several ways to lower pH, including addition of aluminum sulfate or sulfur. Your local cooperative extension service can help you determine the best method. Practice crop rotation. Avoid planting carrots or carrot relatives in the infected soil for three or four years. These include:

• Chervil
• Parsnip
• Parsley
• Fennel
• Dill
• Celery

Water in the morning so the carrot leaves have time to dry completely for evening. If possible, water at the base of the plants. Avoid overhead irrigation whenever you can. Dispose of infected carrots and plant debris immediately after harvest. Burn them or place them in a tightly sealed container. Fungicides aren’t generally very helpful, but they may provide some level of control when applied as soon as symptoms appear.

Black swallowtail butterflies have an interesting relationship with plants in the carrot family, Apiaceae. There are many wild plants in this family but in areas where these are scarce, you might find the adult insects and their larvae hanging out in your carrot patch. Do black swallowtails eat carrots? Carrots and black swallowtail caterpillars have a love/hate relationship. Carrots and their cousins provide egg locations for adults and food for young larvae. So I guess the butterfly has the bulk of the benefits, but you get to attract these lovely pollinating insects when you grow carrots.

Black Swallowtail Butterflies and Carrots

Carrots are generally unbothered by above the ground insects but, in some regions, their foliage can be entirely decimated by the presence of black swallowtail larvae. Adult butterflies prefer nectar from various plants, but they love to lay their eggs on carrot family members and the caterpillars chow down on their leaves. If you love to attract wildlife, growing carrots for black swallowtail butterflies is a sure way to entice them. Black swallowtail butterflies range across North America. They are lovely black and yellow butterflies with a small amount of blue and red on their hind legs. Their larvae are large 2 inch (5 cm.) long caterpillars with voracious appetites. Do black swallowtails eat carrots? No, but their offspring definitely enjoy the foliage.

Are Black Swallowtail Butterflies Beneficial?

Black swallowtails are not really harmful as adults but they don't directly benefit any garden plants either. Their young are considered pests in large numbers, but the average hatch doesn't kill carrot plants, just defoliates them. In time, the carrots can regrow leaves and withstand a larval onslaught. Carrots and black swallowtail caterpillars can have a contentious relationship, but the adults simply use the plants as landing zones and a place to lay their eggs. Carrots and black swallowtail caterpillars are constant companions in late summer until the larvae pupate and overwinter. The larvae will also be found on wild plants such as poison hemlock and queen Anne's lace. Other plants that attract black swallowtails are dill, fennel, and parsley.

Growing Carrots for Black Swallowtail Butterflies

Black swallowtails are known for their beauty and many butterfly enthusiasts try to attract them to the garden. While providing them with colorful nectar rich flowers is a way to bring them in and feed them, uniting black swallowtail butterflies and carrots will support future generations. Black swallowtail butterflies will appear in spring and lay their eggs on ideal host plants. Their young do cause some damage through feeding but generally not enough to permanently damage the carrot crop. Many of our native butterflies provide a picturesque way of decorating the garden, providing viewing pleasure with their gentle ways and colorful beauty. Growing plants that are attractive as breeding areas will ensure a continued supply of these magnificent insects year after year. As an added bonus, you and your family get to watch the lifecycle of a truly interesting organism.

Controlling Overactive Populations of Larvae

In some instances, especially in commercial growing zones, large populations of the larvae may be a nuisance. In rare cases, it may be necessary to hand pick and destroy large infestations of caterpillars or use a product such as Bacillus thuringiensis, a natural bacteria that will kill the larvae. There are also three types of tachinid flies and several other natural predators, including some birds, which feed on the caterpillars. However, the larvae emit a nasty taste and odor that repels many potential predators. If you are not growing organically, you can also resort to a listed pesticide. Always follow directions and wait a month before harvesting any treated foods such as carrots.

Unless you grow your own carrots or haunt farmer’s markets, my guess is your knowledge of carrots is somewhat limited. For instance, did you know that there are actually four major types of carrot, each grown for its unique qualities? These four include: Danvers, Nantes, Imperator, and Chantenay. This article focuses on growing Nantes carrots, Nantes carrot information, and Nantes carrot care. Read on to find out just what Nantes carrots are and how to grow Nantes carrots.

What are Nantes Carrots?

Nantes carrots were first mentioned and described in the 1885 edition of the Henri Vilmorin family seed catalogue. He stated that this carrot variety has a nearly perfect cylindrical root and smooth, almost red, skin that is mild and sweet in flavor. Revered for their sweet, crisp flavor, Nantes carrots are rounded at both the tip and root end.

Additional Nantes Carrot Information

Carrots originated over 5,000 years ago in present day Afghanistan, and these first carrots were cultivated for their purple root. Eventually, carrots were divided into two categories: atrorubens and sativus. Atrobuens arose from the east and had yellow to purple roots, while sativus carrots had orange, yellow, and sometimes white roots. During the 17th century, a favoring for orange carrots became the vogue and purple carrots fell out of favor. At that time, the Dutch developed carrots with the deeper orange carotene pigment we know today. Nantes carrots were named for the city on the French Atlantic Coast whose countryside is ideal for Nantes cultivation. Soon after its development, Nantes became a favorite of the consumer due to its sweeter flavor and more tender texture. Today, there are at least six varieties of carrot that bear the Nantes name, but Nantes has come to represent more than 40 members of carrots with medium-sized, cylindrical roots that are both rounded at the top and bottom.

How to Grow Nantes Carrots

All carrots are cool weather veggies that should be planted in the spring. Nantes carrots are harvested from late summer through fall. Sow seeds for carrots with other frost tolerant crops as soon as the soil has warmed in the spring and all danger of frost has passed. Prepare a bed that has been plowed down to a depth of 8 to 9 inches (20-23 cm.). Break up clumps and rake out large rocks and debris. If you have a very clay laden soil, consider growing the carrots in a raised bed. Plant the seeds ¼ to ½ inch (6 mm. to 1 cm.) deep in the early spring. Space rows 12 to 18 inches (31-46 cm.) apart. Germination may take up to two weeks, so bring your patience. Thin the seedlings to 3 inches (8 cm.) apart when they are an inch tall (2.5 cm.).

Nantes Carrot Care

When growing Nantes carrots, or really any type of carrot, keep an eye on the irrigation. Carrots germinate best in warm, moist soil. Cover the soil with clear polyethylene while the seeds germinate. Remove the film when seedlings appear. Keep the bed damp as the carrots grow. Carrots need moisture to prevent splitting. Keep weeds cultivated from around the seedlings. Be careful and use a shallow cultivator or hoe so as to not injure the roots. Harvest of Nantes carrots will be about 62 days from direct sowing when they are around 2 inches (5 cm.) across, although the smaller the sweeter. Your family will love these sweet carrots, packed even higher than store bought carrots with vitamins A and B and rich in calcium and phosphorus.

Carrots are a favorite of many gardeners. They are cool-season biennials, which produce heavily in their first year. Due to their quick maturity and preference for cool weather, carrots can be planted at different times of the year for separate harvests. When gardeners have successfully grown and harvested high yields of carrots, they usually try new varieties each year. One versatile carrot variety recommended by many carrot lovers is the Chantenay carrot. Continue reading for Chantenay carrot info and tips on growing Chantenay carrots.

What are Chantenay Carrots?

Chantenay carrots are short, stout carrots with light orange flesh and orange-red colored cores. They mature in 65 to 75 days to 4 to 5 inch (10-13 cm.) long and 2 to 2 ½ inch (5-6 cm.) thick roots. Introduced in 1929, Chantenay carrots are commercially grown for canned and processed carrots because of their high yields. The carrots can be eaten fresh, frozen, or canned. Chantenay carrots can be eaten raw or cooked, with their taste usually described as sweet and crisp. However, they may become coarse and tough when grown past maturity, specifically in the heat of summer. Like all carrots, Chantenay carrots are high in carotene and fiber. There are two main types of Chantenay carrot seeds available to gardeners, Red cored Chantenay, or Royal Chantenay.

• Red cored Chantenay carrots have a redder core and blunt tip.
• Royal Chantenay carrots have an orange-red core and a tapered tip.

How to Grow Chantenay Carrots

Chantenay carrots should be planted deeply directly in the garden in spring after all danger of frost has passed. It is recommended to plant them directly in the garden because transplanting young seedlings often leads to crooked, malformed roots. Chantenay carrots can be planted in spring for a midsummer harvest, and again in midsummer for a fall harvest. In hot climates, such as zones 9 through 12, many gardeners grow Chantenay carrots during the winter months because they produce the most tender roots in cool weather. Chantenay carrot care is the same as caring for any carrot plant. This variety has no special requirements. Due to their stout roots, however, Chantenay carrots grow well in shallow or heavy soils.

Danvers carrots are medium sized carrots, often called "half size." They were once a choice carrot for their flavor, especially when young, because mature roots can become fibrous. Danvers were an early orange cultivar, as previous favored selections were white, red, yellow, and purple. Read on to learn how to grow Danvers carrots and a bit about their history.

Danvers Carrot Information

Carrots are one of the easier and least fussy crops to grow. From eating fresh out of hand to steamed, sautéed, or blanched, carrots have a wide variety of culinary applications. One of the nicer varieties is Danvers. What are Danvers carrots? This is a very adaptable root vegetable with little core and a nice tapered shape and size. Try growing Danvers carrots and add an heirloom vegetable to your garden. Carrots were once used as much for their medicinal value as they were in culinary applications. Danvers carrots were developed in the 1870's in Danvers, Massachusetts. The variety was shared with Burpee in 1886 and became a popular seed due to the root's deep orange color and rich flavor. This variety does better than many popular carrots because it forms nice roots even in heavy, shallow soils. Creating a mound when growing Danvers carrots in such soils can help promote root formation. The roots can grow 6 to 7 inches long (15-18 cm.). Danvers is a biennial plant which can take 65 to 85 days from seed to harvested root.

How to Grow Danvers Carrots

Prepare a garden bed by loosening soil to a depth of at least 10 inches (25 cm.). Incorporate organic material to increase porosity and add nutrients. You may plant these carrot seeds three weeks before the date of the last expected frost in your area. Build a low mound and plant seeds with just a dusting of soil over them. Water regularly to keep soil from drying out. When you see the tops of the roots, cover the area with some organic mulch. Prevent competitive weeds as the roots form. Danvers carrot information indicates that this variety is very heat resistant and rarely splits. You can begin harvesting baby carrots at any time they are large enough to eat.

Danvers Carrot Care

These are fairly self-sufficient plants and Danvers carrot care is minimal. Do not let the top of soil dry out, nor the tops of the roots or they will be corky and woody. Use companion plants to help reduce carrot pests such as carrot fly. Any plant in the Allium family will repel these insects, such as garlic, onions or chives. Growing Danvers carrots as a successive crop may be done by sowing every 3 to 6 weeks. This will give you a steady supply of young roots. To preserve carrots, pull off the tops and pack them in damp sand or sawdust. In milder climates, leave them in the soil topped with a thick layer of organic mulch. They will overwinter and be one of the first vegetables harvest in spring.

Carrots hail from Afghanistan around the 10th century and were once purple and yellow, not orange. Modern carrots get their bright orange color from B-carotene that is metabolized in the human body into vitamin A, necessary for healthy eyes, general growth, healthy skin, and resistance to infections. Today, the most commonly purchased carrot is the Imperator carrot. What are Imperator carrots? Read on to learn some Imperator carrot info, including how to grow Imperator carrots in the garden.

What are Imperator Carrots?

You know those “baby” carrots you buy at the supermarket, the kind the kids love? Those are actually Imperator carrots; likely so are the regular sized carrots you buy at the grocers. They are deep orange in color, tapered to a blunt point, and around 6 or 7 inches (15-18 cm.) long; the epitome of the perfect carrot. They are somewhat coarse and not as sweet as other carrots, but their thin skins make them easy to peel. Since they contain less sugar and have a bit tougher texture, they also store better than other types of carrot, making them the most common carrot sold in North America.

Imperator Carrot Info

The original ‘Imperator’ carrot was developed in 1928 by Associated Seed Growers as a stabilized cross between ‘Nantes’ and ‘Chantenay’ carrots. There are a number of varieties of Imperator carrot, including:

• Apache
• A-Plus
• Artist
• Bejo
• Blaze
• Carobest
• Choctaw
• Convert
• Crusader
• Eagle
• Estelle
• First Class
• Heritage
• Imperator 58
• Nelson
• Nogales
• Orangette
• Orlando Gold
• Prospector
• Spartan Premium 80
• Sunrise
• Sweetness

Some, like Imperator 58, are heirloom varieties; some are hybrid, such as Avenger; and there is even a variety, Orlando Gold, which contains 30% more carotene than other carrots.

How to Grow Imperator Carrots

Full sun and loose soil are key ingredients when growing Imperator carrots. The soil needs to be loose enough to allow the root to form correctly; if the soil is too heavy, lighten it up with compost. Sow the carrot seeds in the spring in rows that are about a foot (31 cm.) apart and cover them lightly with soil. Firm the soil gently over the seeds and moisten the bed.

Imperator Carrot Care

When the growing Imperator seedlings are around 3 inches (8 cm.) tall, thin them to 3 inches (8 cm.) apart. Keep the bed weeded and consistently watered. Fertilize the carrots lightly after about six weeks from emergence. Use a nitrogen rich fertilizer such as 21-10-10. Hoe around the carrots to keep weeds at bay, being careful not to disturb the carrot roots. Harvest the carrots when the tops are about an inch and half (4 cm.) across. Don’t let this type of carrot mature completely. If they do, they become woody and less flavorful. Prior to harvesting, soak the ground to make the carrots easier to pull up. Once they are harvested, cut the greens off to about ½ inch (1 cm.) above the shoulder. Store them layered in damp sand or sawdust or, in mild climates, leave them in the garden during the winter months covered with a thick layer of mulch.

Carrots are one of the most popular vegetables, good cooked or eaten fresh. As such, they are also one of the most common crops in the home garden. Properly seeded, they’re a fairly easy crop to grow, but that doesn’t mean you won’t encounter carrot growing problems. Getting carrot plants to form roots or carrot roots that become gnarled are among the more common carrot growing problems. The following article centers on how to get carrots to grow properly.

Help, My Carrots Do Not develop!

There are several reasons for carrots not forming roots. First of all, they may have been planted when it was too hot. Carrots germinate best when the temperature of the soil is between 55 and 75 degrees F. (13-24 C.). Any warmer and the seeds struggle to germinate. Warm temperatures will also dry out the soil, which makes it difficult for seeds to germinate. Cover the seeds with grass clippings or the like or a row cover to help retain moisture.

How to Get Carrots to Grow Properly

A more likely cause for carrots not forming well or growing is heavy soil. Heavy, clay soils don’t allow good sized roots to form or result in twisted formation of roots. If your soil is dense, lighten it up with the addition of sand, broken down leaves, or well-rotted compost prior to planting. Be careful about amending with too much nutrient-rich compost. Excess nitrogen is great for some crops, but not carrots. Too much nitrogen will give you gorgeous, big green carrot tops but carrots lacking in root development or those with multiple or hairy roots will also result. Difficulty getting carrot plants to form roots might also be the result of overcrowding. Carrots need to be thinned early. A week after sowing, thin the seedlings to 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) apart. Thin the carrots to 3 to 4 inches (8-10 cm.) apart again a few weeks later. Lack of water may also cause carrot roots to lack in development. Insufficient water causes shallow root development and stresses the plants. Water deeply once a week in most soils. Predominantly sandy soil should be watered more frequently. During periods of lengthy heat and drought, water them more often. Lastly, root-knot nematodes may cause carrots to deform. A soil test will verify the presence of nematodes. If they are present, the soil might need to be solarized by treating it with the sun’s heat via plastic sheeting over the summer months. In the absence of solarizing the soil, move the carrot crop to a different location next growing season.

Carrot weevils are tiny beetles with big appetites for carrots and related plants. Once they’re established, these insects can devastate your carrot, celery, and parsley crops. Read on to find out about carrot weevil management.

What are Carrot Weevils?

Only about one-sixth of an inch (4 mm.) long, carrot weevils are snout beetles that love to dine on members of the carrot family. They feed during the warm months and then spend the winter hiding in the top layer of soil and in weeds, grass, or debris left in the garden. If you have them one year, you can count on their return the following year. Since they overwinter in the location where carrots grew the previous year, crop rotation is an important part of the strategy for controlling carrot weevils. Move your carrot patch every year and wait at least three years before growing them in the same location. At the same time, keep the garden clean and weed free to eliminate some of their favorite hiding places. The adult beetles feed on plant foliage. Females lay eggs in the carrot roots through a small puncture wound. If you see a small dark spot on a carrot, rub it and look for a wound underneath. If you see a puncture wound, you can be fairly certain that there are carrot weevil larvae tunneling through the root. The larvae are white, C-shaped grubs with brown heads. Their feeding activity can weaken and kill a carrot. Carrot weevil damage leaves the roots inedible.

Controlling Carrot Weevil Organically

There are plenty of organic strategies for managing carrot weevils, so you will probably never need to spray toxic chemical insecticides to get rid of them. Traps are effective in catching the larvae. You can buy them at a garden center or make your own from mason jars and paper cups. Place a few slices of carrot in the bottom of a mason jar to serve as bait. Poke holes in the bottom of a plastic coated paper cup and fit it into the opening in the jar. The larvae can fall though the holes but can’t crawl out. Alternatively, sink a baited container in the garden soil so that the opening is level with the soil surface. Add soapy water to the container. The carrot weevil larvae will drown when they fall in. Milky spore and Bacillus thuringiensis are organisms that kill grubs like carrot weevil larvae without harming people, the environment, or animals. These completely safe products are very effective when you apply them early, but they won’t kill older larvae. You may continue to see larvae for a while because they don’t die immediately. Use neem-based sprays on older larvae. Keeping your garden clean and weed free, rotating the carrot crop, using traps, and beneficial organisms should be enough to control carrot weevils. If you’re still having trouble, check your garden center for insecticides labeled for use against the pest. Keep in mind that systemic chemical insecticides also kill beneficial insects and may cause more problems than they solve.

Although the cultural problems growing carrots may outweigh any disease problems, these root vegetables are susceptible to some common carrot diseases. Because the edible parts of the carrots you grow are hidden below ground, they can become infected with disease that you may not notice until you harvest your crop. But if you watch your growing carrots carefully, you may detect disease symptoms that often show themselves above ground.

Common Carrot Diseases at a Glance

Carrot diseases may stem from fungal, bacterial or other causes. Here are some of the more frequent issues you may come across.

Fungal Diseases

Crown and root rots are caused by Rhizoctonia and Pythium spp. pathogens. Common symptoms to look for are the tops of carrot roots turning mushy and rotting, and the foliage may die to the ground as well. Roots also become stunted or forked. Leaf spot is typically caused by Cercospora spp. pathogens. Symptoms of this fungal ailment are dark, circular spots with yellow halos on carrot leaves. Leaf blight caused from Alternaria spp. pathogens will have irregularly shaped brownish-black areas with yellow centers on carrot foliage. Powdery mildew fungus (Erysiphe spp. pathogens) is fairly easy to notice as plants will typically exhibit white, cottony growths on the leaves and stems.

Bacterial Diseases

Bacterial leaf spot is caused from Pseudomonas and Xanthomonas spp. pathogens. Early symptoms are yellow areas on leaves and stems that become brown in the middle. Advanced symptoms are brown streaks on the leaves and stems that may have yellow halos.

Mycoplasma Diseases

Aster yellows is a conditions that includes yellowing foliage, excessive foliage growth and a bunching habit of the leaves. Carrot roots will also taste bitter.

Carrot Disease Management

Preventing carrot diseases is easier than treating them. Whether a disease is caused by a fungal or bacterial pathogen, once the disease has taken hold, it’s difficult to treat it.

• Carrot disease management is a multi-pronged effort that begins with choosing a site that has well-draining soil. Evenly moist soil is good for healthy carrot growth, but soggy soil that holds water promotes root and crown rot diseases.
• Another essential step in carrot disease management is choosing carrot cultivars that are resistant to certain diseases.
• Diseases affecting carrots, regardless of the pathogen, overwinter in the soil and can infect next season’s crop. Practice crop rotation, which is simply planting a different crop, such as tomatoes, in the same area where you planted carrots the year before. If possible, don’t plant carrots in the same spot for at least three years.
• Keep weeds at bay, because some diseases, such as aster yellows, are transmitted by leafhoppers, which are insects that lay their eggs on nearby weeds.
• Don’t forget that carrots are cool-season crops, which means that many problems growing carrots happen if you try to grow them as a warm-season crop.

If you do use chemicals for treating carrot diseases, be sure to read the product labels and follow all recommendations. Most chemical controls are preventive, not curative. This means that they typically control diseases if you use them before a disease takes hold. This is a particularly suitable method of treating carrot diseases if you had a problem last year. Some diseases affecting carrots cause symptoms that look like other diseases, as well as problems that are not disease-related. So if you do use chemical controls, it’s essential that you’ve properly diagnosed the cause of a disease. If you’re unsure whether your carrots have a disease or simply a cultural-related problem, consult your local Extension Service.

Looking at the produce section of the supermarket, you'd think there's only one kind of carrot: long, orange, and perfectly tapered. I guess there are two types if you want to count baby carrots. Once you start growing your own carrots, though, you discover that there's a whole world of carrots out there, and it's wildly diverse, especially when it comes to types of heirloom carrots. Beyond orange, carrots come in purple, red, yellow, white, and even black. And their shapes and sizes are just as varied. Case in point: the Oxheart carrot.

History of Oxheart Carrots

The Oxheart carrot, also called the Guérande carrot, was first developed in Nantes, France, in the 1870s and introduced to the United States a decade later. Once you've seen one, you know how it got its name. This carrot is massive, usually growing to one pound (.45 kg). And instead of the long, slightly tapered shape we're accustomed to, it forms a big, chunky, heart shape that's no more than 6 inches long but often as much as 5 inches wide. In spite of this, it rarely gets woody. The most popular way to prepare it is in soups or stews, where a single specimen will get the job done. Basically, these are the meat of the carrot family.

How to Grow Oxheart Carrot Plants

Because of their short and stocky shape, Oxheart carrot plants are great for heavy or rocky soils that might thwart longer varieties. Sow your seeds directly outside as soon as the soil can be worked. Plant seeds at a depth of ¼ inch (0.6 cm.) spaced half an inch (1.3 cm.) apart. Press the soil down firmly over the seeds and keep them moist until they emerge. Germination may be slow and a little unreliable, so don't lose heart but don't expect any miracles. Plant a number of seeds higher than the number of carrots you want and you should be fine. When all the seedlings seem to have emerged, thin them to every 2-4 inches (5-10 cm.) to allow them room to widen.

Carrots are an extremely popular vegetable, so much so that you may want to grow your own. There is some degree of difficulty when growing your own carrots and the results may be less than the perfectly shaped carrots purchased at the supermarket. Soil density, available nutrients and moisture may all conspire to engender twisted, malformed and often cracking carrot crops. If you are seeing split carrot roots, you may be wondering how to prevent cracking in carrots crops.

Why Carrots Crack

If your carrots are cracking, the malady is likely the result of inadequate environmental preferences; water needs to be exact. Carrot roots need moist soil, but don't like to be waterlogged. Moisture stress not only results in cracking in carrot crops, but may also cause underdeveloped, woody, and bitter roots. The cracking of the roots occurs after a time of a lack of irrigation and then a sudden onslaught of moisture, such as a downpour after a period of drought.

How to Prevent Cracking in Carrots

Along with consistent moisture, growing the perfect, or almost perfect, carrot also requires healthy, well-draining soil with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. The soil should be free from rocks, as they will keep the roots from growing true, twisting them as they grow. These hardy biennials should be seed sown at a depth of ¼ to ½ inch (.6-1.3 cm.) deep in rows spaced 12-18 inches (30-46 cm.) apart. Fertilize with 2 pounds (.9 kg.) of 10-10-10 per 100 square feet prior to planting and side dress with ½ pound (.23 kg.) of the 10-10-10 per 100 square feet as needed. Overcrowding may also result in misshapen roots. To combat that issue, mix the seed in with fine, light soil or sand and then scatter the mix in the bed. Vigilantly control weeds, which can interfere with the growth of young carrot seedling. Add mulch around the carrot plants to retard weed growth and retain moisture. Plenty of moisture -- 1 inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week -- is required to help the carrots grow quickly, but to prevent cracking of carrots. To grow the shapeliest roots, carrots must have smooth, almost powdery soil with a well enriched, deeply dug loam. If you follow the above information, in 55-80 days, you should be pulling up delicious, unblemished carrots. Carrots can be left in the ground during the winter and only dug up as needed.

Can carrots grow indoors? Yes, and growing carrots in containers is easier than growing them in the garden because they thrive on a steady supply of moisture—something that's hard to provide outdoors in the heat of summer. When you grow your own carrots, you have options that you'll probably never see in the grocery store, including unusual shapes and a rainbow of colors. So grab a pot and let's get to growing carrots indoors.

Can Carrots Grow Indoors?

Carrots are among the easiest vegetables to grow indoors, and your indoor carrot garden will be attractive as well as functional. Potted carrots fill their container with dark green, lacy foliage that you'll be proud to display in any room of your home. You can grow baby carrots in any size container, but longer varieties need deeper pots. Choose a pot that is at least 8 inches (20 cm.) deep to grow short or half-long varieties, and one that is 10 to 12 inches (25-31 cm.) deep for standard length carrots. Fill the pot with good quality potting soil to within an inch (2.5 cm.) of the top. Now you are ready to plant carrots.

How to Grow Carrot Plants in Pots

The first challenge to growing carrots indoors is getting those tiny little seeds into the soil. To save yourself some frustration, don't worry about trying to space them evenly around the pot. Just moisten the soil and sprinkle the seeds over the surface. Once they germinate, clip out the extra seedlings with a pair of scissors so that the remaining carrots are about one-half inch (1 cm.) apart. When they are about 3 inches (8 cm.) tall and you can see which seedlings are the sturdiest, thin them again to about an inch (2.5 cm.) apart or the distance recommended on the seed packet. Place your potted carrots in a sunny window and keep the soil moist at the surface until the seeds germinate. Water the pot when the soil is dry at a depth of 1 inch (2.5 cm.) once the seedlings begin to grow. When the seedlings reach a height of 3 inches (8 cm.), it's time to start a regular feeding schedule. Use a liquid houseplant fertilizer mixed at full strength every two weeks. Harvest carrots any time after they develop their mature color. Tiny, immature carrots are a tasty treat, but you don't get much carrot for your effort, so you probably want to let at least some of them grow to full size. Harvest the carrots by pulling them straight out of the soil. Digging around in the soil disturbs the roots of other carrots and may cause deformities. Not enough carrots? Prolong the harvest by planting additional pots of carrots at two week intervals. After all, you can never have too many carrots.

The thick, edible roots of carrot plants make such sweet, crunchy vegetables. Unfortunately, when carrot pests attack the roots and leave the foliage, this tasty edible food is ruined. Rust fly maggots cause particular harm to the roots. They tunnel and live in the root and high infestations can make an entire crop inedible. What are carrot rust flies? This is an important question, and the answer will help you prevent the ruin of your root crop.

What are Carrot Rust Flies?

The carrot rust fly is a tiny insect that doesn't harm your carrot crop in the adult form. But when the insect lays eggs in May to June on the surface of the soil, the pests hatch within a few days and the larvae, or maggots, tunnel down under the surface of the soil. This is where they make contact with the roots, feeding and living in the vegetables. The larvae emerge as adults in August and lay eggs, which starts the cycle over again for fall crop problems. This is one of the more invasive of the carrot pests, but you can prevent some damage by timing your planting when flies are not laying eggs. The damage from rust fly maggots isn't immediately apparent because it all happens under the surface of the soil and the tops of the carrot plants are unaffected. Watch for damage when you thin your carrots. The rust fly maggots are tiny and reach only 1/3 inch (8.5 mm.) long. They are yellowish-white and pupate in a month. The brown pupae stay near the roots until they become adults. Controlling carrot rust flies is the most crucial for roots in the ground during August and September.

Carrot Rust Fly Control

Understanding the life cycle of carrot rust flies is pivotal in controlling carrot rust flies. Early spring and late summer are the two times the flies are laying their eggs. Tender young carrot roots are especially vulnerable during these periods. The damage to the roots is more extensive the longer the carrots are in the ground. If you don't mind chemicals in your yard, there are approved insecticides that you can work into the ground at planting time. The less toxic method is to reduce damage by removing affected roots from the ground and looking for damage in cold stored roots. Move the location of fall plantings to prevent infection from the spring crop.

Cultural Controls

In addition to crop rotation, you must remove old carrot and other vegetative debris from the planting site as these can harbor the larva. A simple method for carrot rust fly control is to use floating row covers at planting time. These prevent the parent carrot pests from accessing the soil around your plants and laying their eggs. When growing carrots, sow seeds after the parents have emerged in late June to prevent egg laying around your carrot babies. Easy methods such as these will start you on your way to controlling carrot rust flies.

Carrots are a root vegetable with a characteristic, long-pointed, edible root. Deformed carrots can be caused by a variety of problems and may be forked, bumpy, or otherwise misshapen. These carrots are usually edible, although the core may become woody and slightly bitter. In fact, many of the baby carrots you purchase as snacks are just whittled down deformed carrots. When you find carrots forked and deformed, it may be cultural, insect, or even disease related. Learn what causes these deformities in carrots and what easy controls to apply for healthy, sweet vegetables.

Carrot Problems

Deformed carrots are unsightly and smaller than they might be if they didn't have any problems. While most carrot problems are usually related to boring and chewing insects, the most common reason you may find carrots forked and deformed is improper cultivation. Carrots are easy to grow and thrive in many zones during the growing season. The plants need well worked soil with good organic amendments and plenty of water. Carrots that force their way through compacted or rocky soil will split and become malformed. Carrots may also become stunted or deformed when they are planted too closely together. Make sure to consult the seed packet before planting and provide adequate space for the vegetable's development.

What Causes Deformities in Carrots?

The appearance of stunted and split carrots typically has the gardener wondering what causes deformities in carrots. Deformed carrots are not only caused by poor soil, but may also be from the activities of root knot nematodes or a disease called Phytoplasma aster. Nematodes are nearly invisible soil organisms with feeding activity that can cause nodules to form on plant roots. Since the carrot is the main root of the plant, these nodules distort and deform the vegetable. Phytoplasma aster is a disease introduced by leaf hoppers and among the list of common carrot problems. The disease can survive the winter in weeds and then transfer to other plant hosts. When carrot roots develop excess furry roots on the main root and the foliage turns yellow, pull the plants. This disease will spread. It's best to avoid planting in that area for at least a season unless you solarize and sterilize the soil. Control leaf hoppers and nematodes with natural bacterial agents, such as Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt).

How to Fix a Carrot Deformity

You really can't fix a carrot deformity once it has grown that way. The best offense is defense, which means you need to prevent carrot problems before they occur. Till soils well and add plenty of compost prior to planting to promote vigorous growth and straight vegetables. Remove old plant debris every fall and keep weeds pulled to limit Phytoplasma problems. Deformed carrots are still tasty and can be used successfully in soups and stews where their appearance doesn't count.

Growing carrots in containers is an excellent project for early spring or fall, as carrots prefer cooler temperatures than vegetables of summer. Planting a crop of container carrots during these seasons can result in a worthwhile harvest. You may hear that container grown carrots or carrots grown in the ground are difficult. While carrots can be considered finicky under some growing conditions, once you learn how to container grow carrots, you'll want to make them a regular planting.

How to Grow Container Carrots

Grow carrots in containers in soil that is lightweight and well drained. Grow carrots in containers that are deep enough for the carrots' development. Containers should have drainage holes, as root crops may rot if left in soggy soil. Miniature and Oxheart varieties are most suitable when you grow carrots in containers. Roots of these carrots are only 2 to 3 inches (5-7.6 cm.) long at maturity. They are sometimes called Amsterdam varieties. Container grown carrots need regular moisture. Containers require watering more often than crops in the ground. Mulch can help retain moisture when you grow carrots in containers and help keep weeds down. Growing carrots in containers, as with other root crops, produce better with little root disturbance, such as that of pulling weeds. Plant container carrots outdoors when temperatures reach 45 F. (7 C.). Growing carrots in containers produces the best formed carrot before temperatures reach 70 F. (21 C.), but successful production of growing carrots in containers occurs between 55 and 75 F. (13-24 C.). When growing carrots in containers in late summer, provide a shady area that can keep temperatures 10 to 15 degrees lower than in sunny spots. When you grow carrots in containers, fertilize with a balanced plant food that is light on nitrogen, the first number in the three-digit ratio. Some nitrogen is necessary, but too much can encourage excessive growth of foliage with less going to carrot formation. Thin seedlings of growing carrots to 1 to 4 inches (2.5-10 cm.) apart when they are 2 inches (5 cm.) in height. Most varieties are ready for harvest in 65 to 75 days after planting. Containers allow the flexibility of moving the crop to a cooler spot or covering if temperatures go below 20 F. (-7 C.). Container carrots can sometimes be overwintered for an early spring harvest. Carrots that are over-wintered can be used as needed, as growth will slow in temperatures below 55 F. (13 C.).

Is it possible to save seeds from carrots? Do carrots even have seeds? And, if so, why haven't I seen them on my plants? How do you save seeds from carrots? A hundred years ago, no gardener would have asked these questions, but times changed; laboratories began developing new strains and pre-packaged seeds became the norm.

Seed Saving in the Garden

In the past, it was a common practice among flower and vegetable gardeners to save seeds. From carrots, lettuce, radishes, and other fine seeded species to the larger seeds of beans, pumpkins, and tomatoes, every gardener kept a stash of their favorites to plant again or trade with friends. Modernization gave us hybridization -- cross breeding. In spite of recent complaints, this wasn't necessarily a bad thing. It allowed farmers to grow larger quantities with fewer problems and to ship their produce over long distances safely. Unfortunately, many of these new strains sacrificed flavor and texture to meet these needs. Now the pendulum of progress has swung back. With the re-emergence of heirloom vegetable varieties, many home gardeners are returning to the past with a growing interest in harvesting seeds from the flavorful varieties they're discovering.

Tips for Saving Carrot Seeds

Before you set your heart on saving carrot seeds from this year's crop, there are a few things you need to know. The first thing you need to check is the original package your carrot seeds came in. Are they a hybrid variety with an F1 designation on the package? If so, saving carrot seeds may not be a good idea as hybrid seeds don't always breed true. They often revert to the characteristics of one parent rather than a combination of both. The carrots you grow may not be exactly the same as the ones you pulled from the ground last year. On the other hand, if you're willing to spend the time, you can use those hybrid reversions to develop your own strain. Sow all the seed from the hybrid stock, then choose the plant characteristics you most admire from that sowing and save them for the next seed collection. Eventually, you'll have a carrot that grows best in your garden soil and climate. Secondly, you'll have to save seeds from carrots grown this year, next year. Carrots are biennial. They'll grow their greenery and long, tender root this year, but won't flower until next year. Like our grandmothers and grandfathers, you'll have to sacrifice the root from your best looking plant for saving carrot seed in order to insure that future crops will carry those admirable traits. When saving carrot seeds during the second flowering year, allow the seed heads to fully ripen on the plant. When the flower heads begin to brown and become dry, carefully cut the heads and place them in a small, paper bag and then leave them alone until the drying is complete. Small plastic containers or glass jars can also be used, but be careful. The same airtight lid that will protect your dried seeds will also hold the moisture of not quite dry seed heads and that can lead to moldy seed. Set your unlidded containers in a safe, dry place. Once the seed heads are thoroughly dry and the seeds have darkened, seal your containers and shake vigorously to release the seed. Label and store your seeds in a cool, dry place; the cooler the storage, the longer the viability of the seed. Modern technology may have robbed some of the flavor and texture from the garden foods we eat, but it has also given modern gardeners the means to restore flavor and variety to their gardens. There are several good sites on the Internet that carry heirloom seeds for sale and others where seeds are exchanged. Why not check them out and save seeds from carrots that are proven originals?

Homegrown carrots are so delicious that it's very natural for a gardener to wonder if there's a way of storing garden carrots so that they'll last through the winter. While carrots can be frozen or canned, this ruins the satisfying crunch of a fresh carrot and, often, storing carrots for winter in the pantry results in rotten carrots. What if you could learn how to store carrots in your garden all winter long? Overwintering carrots in the ground is possible and only requires a few easy steps.

Steps for Overwintering Carrots in the Ground

The first step to leaving carrots in the ground for later harvest in the winter is to make sure that the garden bed is well weeded. This ensures that while you are keeping the carrots alive, you do not also keep the weeds alive for next year. The next step for storing carrots for winter in the ground is to heavily mulch the bed where the carrots are growing with straw or leaves. Make sure that the mulch is pushed securely against the tops of the carrots. Be warned that when you are overwintering carrots in the ground, the carrot tops will eventually die off in the cold. The carrot root below will be just fine and will taste fine after the tops die, but you may have trouble finding the carrot roots. You may want to mark the locations of the carrots before you mulch. After this, storing garden carrots in the ground is just a matter of time. As you need carrots, you can go out to your garden and harvest them. You may find that the carrots will get sweeter as the winter progresses because the plant starts to concentrate its sugars in order to help it survive the cold. Carrots can be left in the ground all winter long, but you'll want to harvest all of them before early spring. Once spring arrives, the carrots will flower and will become inedible. Now that you know how to store carrots in the ground, you can enjoy your fresh and crunchy homegrown carrots nearly all year-round. Overwintering carrots is not only easy, it is space saving. Try leaving carrots in the ground for winter this year.

Carrots are a “triple threat” in the garden, being nutritious, versatile in the kitchen, and a relatively low-maintenance crop. As a root vegetable, carrots are prized for their sweet, crunchy, edible taproot and their wealth of beta-carotene (a precursor to vitamin A), but they are also appreciated for the rainbow of colors – from the familiar orange to purple, white, yellow, and red.

Derived from the wild carrot known as Queen Anne’s Lace and commonly found in hedges and fields, the cultivated carrot has its roots in Eurasia, with the species native to temperate regions of Europe, North Africa, and western Asia. Today, carrots are grown around the world across many climates.

As a crop, these root vegetables are incredibly useful: they’re eaten fresh, cooked, juiced, and stored; they make great additions to soups, salads, and stews; and they can even be pickled or dried. So if you’re starting a vegetable garden, carrots are well worth adding to your early planting list.

Quick Carrot Facts

Types of Carrots

Carrots can be grouped into several broad categories based on their origin, purpose, and physical traits. Broadly speaking, the main types of carrots fall into Eastern and Western varieties. Eastern carrots – often found in striking shades of purple, red, or yellow – originated in Central Asia and are rich in anthocyanins. Western carrots, developed later in Europe, include the familiar orange varieties bred for sweetness and high beta-carotene.

Another category is their use. This divides carrots into their purposes, such as for fresh-market use, for processing, for storing, and those that are specifically bred for “baby carrot” cut production.

Several carrot cultivars are beloved by both home gardeners and market farmers:

• ‘Nantes’ are prized for their crisp texture, uniform shape, and exceptional sweetness.
• ‘Danvers’ carrots, which have a tapered, robust root form, perform well in heavier soils and are great for storing.
• ‘Chantenay’ carrots are shorter, have broad ‘shoulders’ and are well-suited to shallow or compacted soils.
• 'Imperator' carrots have a long, slender profile and are the ones most commonly seen in grocery stores, offering a high sugar content ideal for fresh eating.

Burpee offers a wide selection of carrot seeds, from the colorful Kaleidoscope Blend to varieties in a range of lengths.

Planting Carrots

Growing carrots from seeds isn’t difficult, especially if you take some time to prepare your soil first. Plus, planting carrots from seed lets you mix it up a little and select a different variety or even a different color!

Carrot seeds are very tiny. It can be helpful when seeding carrots to use a manual seed dispenser, which will only disperse single seeds at each depression. You can also use seed tape for precise spacing. Otherwise, broad sowing will require thinning to allow each root room to grow and keep them from warping in shape.

When to Plant Carrots

Carrots are a cool-season, hardy biennial that can be sown as soon as the garden can be worked in the spring. Carrots’ deep roots don’t make them good candidates for starting inside and then transplanting, so wait until the soil temperature outside is above 50°F (10°C) – ideally between 60 and 65°F (16–18°C) – and direct sow seeds.

When properly timed, carrots can deliver two crops during the growing season. The first crop should be sown directly into the garden 2–4 weeks before the last spring frost date in your area. For a second fall harvest, sow seeds in mid to late summer. Avoid growing carrots in high heat, which can turn the roots hard and bitter.

However, if you live in a warmer climate or want to try it in the summer, growing carrots in hot weather is possible with certain precautions. In mild climates, you can grow this nutritious vegetable almost year-round by planting successive crops and using heavy mulch to protect them from winter temperatures.

Best Soil for Carrots

Before you even think about planting carrots, you need to assess (and possibly amend) your soil. Carrots thrive in a soil type that is loose and deeply tilled, such as sandy loam. If you want to avoid crooked, forked carrots, then the key to getting them to grow straight is to prepare the soil before planting, removing any roots, rocks, or big chunks of plant detritus. Rake the soil until it is loose and free from debris.

The best soil pH is 6.0–6.8, but many varieties can grow in 5.5–7.5. Carrots don't produce well when the soil is acidic. If you need to sweeten the soil, do so in the fall prior to planting. Garden lime is the usual method of changing the pH to a more alkaline level.

Check your soil using this 4-in-1 meter from Amazon, which checks pH, moisture levels, light, and temperature.

Avoid planting carrots in soil that develops a crust after irrigation or rain, as this will make it difficult for seedling emergence. You also need to check the drainage. Carrots that grow where the soil is too moist will put out hairy little roots that destroy the overall vegetable texture.

While you are working the soil, incorporate 1–2 inches (5–10 cm) of leaf litter or compost to help loosen the soil and add nutrients, and mix in a low-nitrogen fertilizer. Avoid manure, which is high in nitrogen.

Carrot Light Requirements

Select a location in the garden that has full sun for growing carrots. Ideally, the plants should receive 6–10 hours of sunlight each day. Carrots grown in less sun will not produce robust roots, which is the part of the plant we harvest and enjoy.

Carrot Seeding – Step by Step

Carrot seeds are very tiny. about the size of a sharpened pencil lead. It is nearly impossible to sow the seeds to the proper distance or in a straight line, so I don’t try. Don’t panic, though, because the carrots can always be thinned out after germination. It is easiest to broadcast (lightly scatter) the seeds in a bigger garden bed or sprinkle them in as neat a row as you can manage. Or, use seed tape. Both methods are detailed below.

Direct Sowing Carrot Seed

1. Choose site and timing. Pick a sunny spot with loose, stone-free soil. Sow in early spring as soon as soil can be worked, or late summer for a fall crop.
2. Prepare soil. Work soil to 8–12 inches (20–30 cm) deep, removing rocks and dirt clods, and rake to a fine finish. Amend as necessary and mix in compost and fertilizer.
3. Mark rows. Lay out rows 12–18 inches (30–46 cm) apart.
4. Create a shallow furrow. Make a shallow trench ¼–½ inch deep (0.6–1.3 cm).
5. Sow seed thinly. Sprinkle seeds along the trench. Aim for about 18–20 seeds per foot in a row.
6. Cover and water. Lightly cover with fine soil, then press down gently with the back of a rake or a board to ensure soil-seed contact. Moisten with a fine spray so seeds don’t wash away. Keep soil evenly moist until germination.

Using Carrot Seed Tape

Seed tape is simply a strip of two layers of tissue paper with seeds evenly spaced in between. This makes it easy to sow the tiny seeds without worrying about dropping them or getting them spaced correctly.

You can purchase tape pre-seeded with carrot seeds (find seed tape pre-seeded with Nantes Half-Long Carrot Seeds at Burpee), or you can make your own. If making your own, use perforated toilet paper or thin paper and a paste made from light flour/cornstarch (1:2 ratio) mixed with the same amount of water.

Lay down a strip of paper the length of your row, place seeds at desired spacing – e.g., 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) for mature carrots; ½–1 inch (1.3–2.5 cm) for baby types – dab a little paste over each seed to hold the folded paper and let dry completely.

1. Prepare bed. This is the same as for direct sowing: a loose, fine soil with a shallow ¼–½ inch deep (0.6–1.3 cm) furrow.
2. Lay the tape. Place the seed tape at the bottom of the trench. Space rows at the same distance, 12–18 inches (30–46 cm).
3. Cover. Lightly cover, firm, and water gently as with the direct-sown seeds.

Carrots will take anywhere from 2 to 3 weeks to sprout. At that time, thin seedlings to up to 2 inches (5 cm) apart.

Carrot Care

Carrots are a low-maintenance crop, but a little consistent care goes a long way toward producing sweet, well-shaped roots. They don’t demand constant attention, yet steady watering, light feeding and careful thinning will help them develop properly. Keep the soil weed-free and free-draining, and protect young seedlings from pests to ensure a healthy, generous harvest.

How Much Water Do Carrots Need?

Carrot plants need to be kept moderately moist. Give the plants 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water per week. Carrots that get too much moisture will rot, while those with too little will become misshapen and bitter. Water deeply and thoroughly, and allow the soil to dry a bit before rewatering.

Reduce the amount of water when the roots are three-quarters of their mature size to prevent splitting.

Fertilizing Carrots

As root vegetables, carrots do not need much in the way of nitrogen. Too much nitrogen will cause the roots to branch. However, it's recommended to enrich the soil before planting with a low-nitrogen formula. Add 2 cups (470–950 ml) of fertilizer per 100 feet (30.5 m) and work that down into the bottom of the bed.

The best fertilizer for carrots is a 5-10-10 granular product, like this CZ Garden Organics Tomato and Vegetable Fertilizer on Amazon. Alternatively, bonemeal works well as it is naturally low in nitrogen. Work fertilizer into the top 3 inches (8 cm) of the soil.

Once the carrot plant tops are 4 inches (10 cm) tall, fertilize again, and once more when they are 6–8 inches (15–18 cm) tall.

Mulching Carrots

Mulch around carrot plants with a layer of clean, organic material to help suppress weeds and retain soil moisture. Apply mulch once seedlings are a few inches tall and the soil has warmed in late spring. Spread a light, even layer about 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) thick, taking care not to smother young plants or bury the crowns.

As well as reducing weed competition, mulch helps regulate soil temperature and prevents the surface from drying out too quickly, encouraging steady root development and reducing the risk of cracking.

How to Thin Carrots

Carrot plants do not need pruning, but they do need to be thinned to allow for underground growth and expansion. Once the carrot seedlings have reached 3 inches (8 cm) tall, snip or pinch the seedlings at ground level so the remaining seedlings are about 2 inches (5 cm) apart. Look for those that appear scrawny, small, or are practically on top of each other.

It is best not to pull out the carrot seedlings to thin them. Remember, those tap roots don’t like to be disturbed. Instead, cut them as close to the soil surface as you can. When you pull on one small carrot, you could be disturbing the roots of those nearby.

Harvesting Carrots

When you should harvest your carrots depends on whether you’re growing a spring or fall crop, and also on your climate. Carrots planted in the spring should be picked before the heat of summer really kicks in, as prolonged heat can make the carrots tough.

If you're planting your carrots in late summer for a fall crop, wait until after the first frost or two has occurred. Frost is a sign to the plant that winter is coming, and that it's time to start storing sugar to last it until spring. This sugar greatly improves the flavor of the carrot. After the first frost, cover your carrots with a thick layer of mulch to keep them from freezing, and let those sugars build up.

Now that you know when to pick carrots, you’ll want to know the best procedure for how to harvest carrots from the garden. Grabbing the foliage and giving it a pull often results in a handful of leaves with no carrot attached. It’s better to dig carefully around the root or lever it up with a garden fork and then remove it from the soil. This Wood-Handled Steel Spading Fork from Lowe’s is a great tool for harvesting carrots. Alternatively, try the push-pull carrot harvesting trick.

Cut off the green tops ¼–½ inch (6–12 mm) from the top of the carrot and rinse and dry the roots before storage. Not all carrots may be ready at the same time. Bypass small carrots and allow them to grow. This can extend a harvest period by 3-4 weeks.

When harvesting carrots, consider how much you can use in a two- to four-week period of time. Carrots can be left in the ground for an additional four weeks or even longer in winter. Make sure you harvest the last of the carrots before the ground freezes solid.

Carrot Care Calendar

Overwintering Carrots

Many gardeners overwinter carrots in the garden covered with heavy mulch and harvest as needed. Use straw or a thick layer of dried leaves, row cover or low tunnel to cover the carrots. How long you’ll be able to store the carrots in this manner depends upon the weather in your area.

This Plant Covers Freeze Protection Kit on Amazon can protect and extend your carrot harvest for weeks or even months.

Preparing and Storing Carrots

When harvest time rolls around, make sure you’ve got a carrot-storage game plan. Topped carrots (i.e. carrots with the tops removed) will stay crisp for two to four weeks in your refrigerator’s produce bin. Stretch that time even longer by nestling them in a bucket of sand in a cool cellar, where they can last for months. Just keep them away from apples and pears – those fruits release ethylene gas, which can turn your carrots bitter.

Longer-term options? Carrots take beautifully to canning, freezing, or pickling, so you can enjoy your crop well past the season. And don’t forget the greens! Use them in pesto, soups, or salads – or toss them in the compost. Topped roots always store best: under ideal conditions (32°F / 0°C and 90–95% humidity), they can keep for four to five months.

Propagating Carrots

The best way to grow these root vegetables is by seed. Seed is readily available, and saving carrot seed is possible if you allow some of the previous season’s crop to flower.

However, if you want to regrow carrots from a discarded carrot top for fun, that is totally doable and a great project for kids.

Just cut off the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the carrot. Place it in a water- or potting soil-filled shallow dish, keeping an eye on the water, and set it near a window. Eventually, green foliage will emerge from the carrot top. While you will not get a new edible carrot root, you will get some harvestable carrot greens for making pesto and adding to salads.

Carrot Problems

While being a relatively low-maintenance crop, carrot problems can develop at any stage. Poor soil preparation, inconsistent watering, pests, and fungal pathogens can all affect growth, and young seedlings may even succumb to damping off in carrots in cool, wet soil. Identifying symptoms early will help you correct issues quickly and protect your crop.

Development Problems

Many carrot issues are caused by soil conditions, crowding, or inconsistent moisture rather than pests or disease. Proper thinning, loose soil, and steady watering prevent most of these problems. In addition, it’s critical to keep weeds out of the area when carrots are just seedlings, as the weeds compete for resources and often grow faster than the young carrots

• Carrots not forming roots – If plants produce lush tops but little or no usable root, overcrowding, excess nitrogen, or compacted soil is often to blame. Learn more about why carrots are not forming properly and how to correct the issue.
• Forked, twisted, or misshapen carrots – Heavy clay soil, rocks, fresh manure, or root disturbance can lead to distorted harvests. Improving soil texture can help fix deformed carrots and prevent future problems.
• Cracked or splitting carrots – Irregular watering, especially heavy rain after a dry spell, often causes roots to split as they mature. Prevent cracking carrots by maintaining consistent moisture.
• Green shoulders (carrots turning green at the top) – When the top of the root is exposed to sunlight, it can turn green and slightly bitter. Hilling soil around crowns or mulching helps prevent this.
• Hairy or fuzzy carrots – Excess fine root growth along the main taproot is often triggered by inconsistent moisture, nutrient imbalance, or soil disturbance.
• Bitter-tasting carrots – Stress from heat, drought, overcrowding, or disease can result in unpleasant flavor, especially in mature roots left too long in the ground.
• Small or stunted carrots – Poor thinning, compacted soil, heavy competition from weeds, or nutrient imbalance can prevent roots from reaching full size.

Pests

Several insects and soil-dwelling organisms feed on carrot foliage or roots. Early detection and preventative measures such as crop rotation and row covers can reduce damage.

• Carrot rust fly damage – The larvae of carrot rust flies tunnel through roots, leaving brown scars and decay. Protect your crop with proper carrot rust fly control strategies.
• Carrot weevils – These pests lay eggs near the crown, and the larvae bore into the root core, causing internal damage. Early monitoring and management are key to controlling carrot weevils.
• Root knot nematodes – Microscopic worms that attack roots, causing swelling, distortion, and stunted growth. Learn how to manage root knot nematodes in carrots before they reduce your yield.
• Black swallowtail caterpillars – These striking caterpillars may feed on carrot foliage, though serious damage is uncommon. Discover when black swallowtails eat carrots and when action is necessary.

Diseases

There are several fungal and bacterial carrot diseases, particularly in warm, damp conditions or poorly drained soil. Good air circulation, crop rotation, and proper watering practices can help limit infection.

• Leaf diseases – Browning, spotting, or white powdery growth on foliage can weaken plants and reduce yields. Learn how to identify and treat carrot leaf blight, manage leaf spot, and control powdery mildew on carrots.
• Root rot diseases – Soil-borne fungi can cause blackened roots, crown decay, wilting, and plant death, particularly in warm or poorly drained soil. Read more about black root rot, southern blight, and cotton root rot disease.
• Aster yellows – Spread by leafhoppers, this disease causes yellowing foliage and hairy, bitter-tasting roots. Find out how to recognise and manage aster yellows in carrot crops.

Growing Carrots in Containers

Growing carrots in containers is an excellent project for early spring or fall, since carrots prefer cooler temperatures than most summer vegetables. Smaller varieties, such as Miniature and Oxheart (2–3 inches/5–7.5 cm at maturity), are especially well suited to container growing.

Choose a pot at least 8 inches (20 cm) deep for short varieties and 10–12 inches (25–31 cm) deep for standard-length carrots to allow room for the taproot to develop. This Dillen 7-Gal. Black Resin Nursery Pot from Home Depot is ideal. Be sure containers have drainage holes to prevent roots from rotting in soggy soil.

Container-grown carrots need consistent moisture, as pots dry out faster than garden beds. Expect to water more frequently than in-ground crops. A layer of mulch helps retain moisture and keeps roots cool.

Start containers outdoors while temperatures are still cool, around 45°F (7°C). Carrots grow best between 55–75°F (13–24°C). During hot weather, full sun may become too intense. If necessary, move containers to a location with afternoon shade, where temperatures can be 10–15 degrees lower than in direct sun.

Fertilize with a balanced plant food that is light on nitrogen – the first number in the three-digit ratio. While some nitrogen is necessary, too much encourages leafy growth at the expense of root development. Most varieties are ready to harvest 65–75 days after planting.

One of the biggest advantages of container growing is flexibility. You can move pots to a cooler spot when temperatures rise or cover them if temperatures drop below 20°F (-7°C). In mild climates, containers can even be overwintered for an early spring harvest.

Growing Carrots Indoors

Carrots can grow surprisingly well indoors, especially in cool rooms with bright light. In fact, maintaining consistent moisture is often easier inside than in a hot summer garden, which can lead to better root development. If you’re interested in growing carrots indoors, choose compact varieties and provide plenty of light.

Select a container that suits the variety you’re growing. Short or half-long types need a pot at least 8 inches (20 cm) deep, while standard varieties require 10–12 inches (25–31 cm) to allow the taproot to develop properly. Always use a container with drainage holes and fill it with quality potting mix.

Sow seeds directly into the soil and thin seedlings as they grow to prevent crowding, which can result in small or misshapen roots. Place containers in a sunny window that receives several hours of bright light daily, and keep the soil consistently moist but never soggy. Once seedlings are established, feed lightly with a balanced liquid fertilizer every couple of weeks.

Baby carrots can be harvested early, but allowing roots to mature will give you a more substantial crop. For a continuous harvest, sow a new pot every couple of weeks.

Companion Planting

Companion planting can help maximize space, improve garden diversity, and reduce pest pressure. When choosing carrot companion plants, many gardeners pair carrots with onions, leeks, and chives, as their strong scent may help deter carrot rust flies. Aromatic herbs such as sage, rosemary, and even mint are also commonly planted nearby (confine mint to containers, as it can be invasive).

Carrots grow well alongside quick-maturing crops like lettuce and radishes, which make efficient use of space while carrots develop slowly underground. In warmer weather, tomatoes can provide light afternoon shade, helping keep the soil cooler around developing roots.

Avoid planting carrots too close to other heavy-feeding root crops, such as parsnips or potatoes, since they compete for nutrients in the same soil zone. Dill is sometimes suggested as a companion, but because it belongs to the same plant family, it can cross-pollinate with carrots if both are allowed to flower – potentially affecting seed quality rather than the current crop.

With thoughtful spacing and planning, carrots can be successfully integrated into most mixed vegetable beds.

Frequently Asked Questions

Carrot Growing Essentials

• Start with high-quality seeds. Burpee has an array of different carrot seeds, from Kaleidescope Blend of colors to different lengths.
• Not into the DIY seed tape? Find pre-seeded with Nantes Half-Long Carrot Seeds at Burpee.
• Your shed needs a Wood-Handled Steel Spading Fork from Lowe’s, great for harvesting carrots and a dozen other garden jobs.
• Extend your carrot-growing activities deep into the cold weather with the Plant Covers Freeze Protection Kit on Amazon.
• If you’re growing carrots in containers, you’ll need pots that are deep, such as this Dillen 7-Gal. Black Resin Nursery Pot are available at Home Depot.