Growing cauliflower is not for the faint of heart. The plant is testy and sensitive to heat, frost, and pests. If you want to grow it, protecting cauliflower plants is essential to your success. Keep reading to learn more about how to protect cauliflower plants, including cauliflower frost protection, sun protection, and pest protection.

Cauliflower Protection in Gardens

Cauliflower is cold hardy, but it’s not invincible, especially when it’s young and tender, so some cauliflower frost protection is necessary in the spring. Start your cauliflower seeds indoors and transplant them outside around the time of the average last frost. If a later frost is likely, protect your young plants with row covers. Likewise, cauliflower has just as hard a time with hot weather. If grown too late into the summer, the plants are likely to get leggy and bolt. Protect them by starting them early enough in the spring or close enough to autumn that they avoid the hottest days. No matter when you grow them, you’ll want to protect your cauliflower heads from the rays of the sun. Once the white head is 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) across, tie the leaves of the plant together so they shelter it. This is called blanching.

Cauliflower Pest Protection

One of the most important aspects of cauliflower protection in gardens is cauliflower pest protection. Cauliflower can fall victim to a host of insect pests that include:

• cabbage worms
• flea beetles
• cabbage root maggots
• cabbage aphids
• slugs
• snails

Again, as with cauliflower frost protection, row covers will help protect young plants from common pests like cabbage worms, root maggots, and flea beetles. Cabbage worms can also be picked off by hand, and aphids can be sprayed off with a stream of water followed by neem oil. Slugs and snails can be killed with bait. Protecting cauliflower plants from pests is important-- you’re very likely to get them, and they can wipe out a crop if you’re not careful.

Having a hard time getting the kids to eat their veggies? Try introducing an heirloom vegetable. Why? Because many of them come in brilliant hues guaranteed to intrigue the pickiest tot. One such veggie is Sicily purple cauliflower, an eye popping purple heirloom cauliflower variety.

Purple of Sicily Cauliflower

Yes, I know I said Sicily purple cauliflower (Brassica oleracea), but this vibrant purple Brassica can be found under the name Purple of Sicily cauliflower or Sicilian purple cauliflower as well. This particular heirloom cauliflower variety is an Italian varietal. I don't think this particular heirloom dates quite as far back, but cauliflower has a lengthy history and is first mentioned in the 6th century B.C. where Pliny describes early cauliflower, or cyma, as being far superior to other varieties of cabbage. As a member of the Brassica family, cauliflower is related to broccoli and cabbage. Healthful additions to the diet, cauliflower is rather notorious for being finicky about its growing conditions. Well, maybe that's stretching it a bit, but it does prefer cooler temps and for perfect white heads, blanching is involved, which requires a minimum of effort on your part. The good news about Sicilian purple cauliflower is that it is said to be easier to grow but still vets you large 2- to 3-pound heads of mineral rich heads. The brilliant purple hue is due to the presence of anthocyanins, antioxidants that are also present in red cabbage and my favorite, red wine.

Growing Sicilian Purple Cauliflower

As mentioned, this heirloom is said to be one of the easiest to grow and, as a bonus, it is more insect resistant than other heirloom cauliflower varieties. It is generally grown as an annual, planted in the spring and takes 60-85 days until your reward of crunchy, sweet purpleness. Start seeds inside about 6-10 weeks before the last frost for your area and then transplant when the seedlings have two sets of leaves. Space transplants 18-24 inches apart with 2-3 feet between rows. As with all cauliflower varieties, these babies need a little space. Cauliflower, in general, likes quite a bit of water. Try for 1 to 1 ½ inch per week. Cauliflower is not only thirsty but a food hog as well. Before planting, amend the soil with 2-3 inches of organic compost. Once the seedlings begin to head, add another couple inches of compost into the soil every few weeks until harvest. Cauliflower also responds well to foliar feeding with compost tea during its growing season. As summer wanes, it will be time to harvest. Just cut through the stalk under the head. Voila! If you want to retain all that antioxidant goodness, then I suggest you munch on your cauliflower raw. Cooking starts to leach the nutrient from the florets and the crunch of fresh cauliflower is lost as well. If you like your cauliflower cooked, however, keep in mind that it loses its appealing purple color as well as some of the nutrition. Still, there isn't anything quite as good (to me) as roasted cauliflower with a bit of salt, pepper, garlic, olive oil and fresh lemon finished with a dusting of asiago cheese. Oh, and a glass of red wine, purely for its antioxidant benefits, of course!

Cauliflower is a member of the Brassica family that is grown for its edible head, which is actually a grouping of abortive flowers. Cauliflower can be a little finicky to grow. Problems growing cauliflower may arise due to weather conditions, nutrient deficiencies and cauliflower diseases. Knowing what type of cauliflower diseases may afflict the veggie and troubleshooting these cauliflower problems will aid in the healthy production and yield of the plant.

Diseases of Cauliflower

Knowing diseases of cauliflower can also help with your other cruciferous crops, such as cabbage and rutabaga. Diseases may be caused by viruses, bacteria, and fungi.

• Alternaria leaf spot, or black spot, is caused by Alternaria brassicae. This fungus presents as brown to black ringed spots on lower leaves of the cauliflower. In its advanced stage, this fungal disease turns the leaves yellow and they drop. While Alternaria leaf spot primarily occurs on leaves, the curd may be infected as well. The disease is spread by spores that are spread by wind, splashing water, people and equipment.
• Downy mildew is also caused by a fungus, Peronospora parasitica, which attacks both seedlings and mature plants. It is seen on the upper surface of the leaf as small yellow spots that eventually turn brown. On the underside of the leaf, white downy mold appears. Vascular discoloration may also occur. Downy mildew also acts as a vector for bacterial soft rot.
• Bacterial soft rot is an odiferous condition that presents as small water soaked areas that expand and cause the plant’s tissue to become soft and mushy. It enters through wounds caused by insects or damage caused by machinery. Humid and wet conditions encourage the disease. Space plants to allow for air circulation and avoid sprinkler irrigation. Take care when working around plants with tools or machinery. Seeds may also be treated with hot water to kill black rot and other bacterial infections. Also, use disease resistant seed when possible.
• Blackleg is caused by Phoma lingam (Leptosphaeria macutans) and is a major scourge in cruciferous vegetables. The fungus remains in cruciferous veggie detritus, weeds and seeds. Again, wet weather is a major factor in the spread of the spores of blackleg. Afflicted seedlings are killed off by this disease, which presents as yellow to brown spots with gray centers on the leaves of the plant. Hot water or fungicide can control blackleg, as can limiting work in the garden during wet periods. If the infection is severe, do not plant any cruciferous crops in the area for at least 4 years.

Additional Cauliflower Diseases

• Damping off is caused by the soil fungi Pythium and Rhizoctonia. Both seed and seedlings are attacked and rot within a few days. Older plants afflicted with Rhizoctonia end up with wire-stem, a condition where the lower stem becomes constricted and dark brown at the soil surface. Use treated seed, pasteurized soil and sanitized equipment to thwart damping off disease. Don’t overcrowd seedlings or overwater. Sow in well-draining medium.
• Yet another cauliflower disease is clubroot, which is caused by Plasmodiophora brassicae. This destructive soil borne disease affects many wild and weed members of the cabbage family. Entry of the fungus via the root hairs and damaged roots rapidly accelerates. It causes abnormally large taproots and secondary roots, which then decay and release spores that can live for a decade in the soil.
• Fusarium yellows or wilt symptoms are akin to those of black rot, although it can be distinguished because leaf dieback progresses from the petiole outwards. Also, afflicted leaves usually curve laterally, leaf margins often have a reddish-purple streak and dark discolored vascular areas are not representative of Fusarium yellows.
• Sclerotinia blight is caused by Scierotinia sclerotiorum. Not only cruciferous crops are susceptible, but many other crops like tomatoes. Windblown spores attack both seedlings and mature plants. Water soaked lesions appear on the plant and the affected tissue turns grey, often accompanied by a fluffy white mold dotted with hard, black fungus called sclerotia. In the final stages, the plant is dotted with pale grey spots, stem rot, stunting and eventual death.

Troubleshooting Cauliflower Problems

• If possible, plant disease resistant seeds. If that isn’t possible, pre-treat seeds with hot water to kill bacterial infections.
• Don’t use old seeds or improperly stored seeds, which will produce weak plants susceptible to disease.
• Avoid damaging cauliflower plants.
• Practice crop rotation to prevent the common diseases of cauliflower. This includes avoiding the planting of any of cauliflowers relatives (such as broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts or kale) for at least three years.
• Lime the soil to prevent fungal infections.
• Use only new or sterile flats and tools.
• Allow plenty of space between seedlings to foster good air circulation.
• Avoid watering from above, which will spread potential spores more easily.
• Remove and destroy seedlings that show signs of infection.

Cauliflower is a little harder to grow than its cabbage and broccoli relatives. This is mainly because of its sensitivity to temperature – too cold or too hot and it won't survive. It’s far from impossible, though, and if you’re looking for a little bit of a challenge in your garden this year, why not try growing cauliflower from seeds? Keep reading for a cauliflower seed planting guide.

Cauliflower Seed Germination

Cauliflower grows best at around 60 degrees F. (15 C.). Too far below that and the plant will die. Too far above it and the head will “button,” meaning it will break off into lots of small, white parts instead of the desired solid, white head. Avoiding these extremes means growing cauliflower from seeds very early in the spring, then transplanting them outside. The best time for planting cauliflower seeds indoors is four to seven weeks before the last average frost. If you have short springs that get hot quickly, you should aim for closer to seven. Sow your seeds in fertile material at a depth of half an inch (1 cm.) and water them thoroughly. Cover the soil with plastic wrap until the seeds have sprouted. Cauliflower seed germination usually takes eight to ten days. When the seedlings appear, remove the plastic and keep the soil evenly moist. Place grow lights or fluorescent lights directly over the seedlings and set them on a timer for 14 to 16 hours per day. Keep the lights just a few inches (8 cm.) above the plants to keep them from getting long and leggy.

Growing Cauliflower from Seeds

Transplant your seedlings outside two to four weeks before the last frost date. They’ll still be sensitive to cold, so make sure to harden them off carefully first. Set them outside, out of the wind, for about one hour, then bring them inside. Repeat this every day, leaving them outside an hour longer each time. If it’s unusually cold out, skip a day. Keep this up for two weeks before planting them in the ground.

Why are my cauliflowers wilting? What can I do about wilting cauliflower? This is a discouraging development for home gardeners, and troubleshooting cauliflower problems isn’t always easy. However, there are several possible causes for cauliflower plants wilting. Read on for helpful tips for treatment and reason why your cauliflower has wilting leaves.

Possible Causes for Wilting Cauliflower

Below are the most likely reasons for wilting in cauliflower plants: Clubroot – Clubroot is a serious fungal disease that affects cauliflower, cabbage and other cruciferous plants. The first sign of clubroot is yellowing or pale leaves and wilting on hot days. If you notice wilting cauliflower, early signs can be difficult to detect. As the disease progresses, the plant will develop distorted, club-shaped masses on the roots. Affected plants should be removed as soon as possible because the disease, which lives in the soil and will spread quickly to other plants. Stress – Cauliflower is a cool weather plant susceptible to wilting in hot weather. The plant performs best in daytime temperatures between 65 and 80 F. (18-26 C.). The plants often perk up in the evening or when temperatures moderate. Be sure to provide 1 to 1 ½ inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm.) of water per week in the absence of rainfall and don’t allow the soil to dry completely. However, avoid overwatering because soggy, poorly drained soil may also cause cauliflower to wilt. A layer of bark chips or other mulch will help keep the soil cool and moist on hot days. Verticillium wilt – This fungal disease often affects cauliflower, especially in moist, coastal climates. It tends to affect plants that are nearing maturity in late summer and early autumn. Verticillium wilt affects primarily the lower leaves, which wilt and turn yellow. The best recourse is to start over with healthy, disease-resistant plants. The fungus lives in the soil, so transplants must be located in a fresh, disease-free area of the garden.

One of the most popular crop groups are the crucifers. These encompass leafy vegetables such as kale and cabbage, and flowering species like broccoli and cauliflower. Each has specific pest problems which may become issues of concern in some regions more than others. Cauliflower bugs can decimate the crop and make the flower head unfit to eat. Treating bugs on cauliflower starts with correct identification of the pest and a targeted control plan that is non-toxic and safe for food plants.

Treating Bugs in Cauliflower

Cauliflower is a versatile vegetable, delicious either cooked or raw. Common signs of an insect invasion may be holes in leaves, tracks on foliage, missing vegetation and poor vigor. Some of the larger insect pests are easy to detect but others are too small or only come out at night, and diagnosis can pose a problem. Knowing the most common cauliflower pests is a good start to vetting the problem and annihilating these annoying and destructive bugs on cauliflower plants. The most common cauliflower pests are aphids, flea beetles, slugs and snails, leaf hoppers, and several insect larva.

Sucking Insects

The one pest that is familiar to most gardeners is the aphid. These are small, soft bodied flying bugs that reduce plant health by sucking sap from leaves and stems. They also attack the succulent flower, covering it in their sticky honeydew secretion and stunting the growth of all parts of the plant. Ants may indicate their presence, since ants "farm" aphids for their honeydew. The harlequin bug is another sucking insect. Both the adult and larval stages feed on plant sap and cause foliar death. The insect is 3/8 inches (1 cm.) long, shield shaped and has distinctive red and black spots on its back. Insecticidal soap or oil is often used in controlling these cauliflower insects.

Worms, Larva and Caterpillars

Whatever the name, the larva of many insects and moths are the most destructive cauliflower bugs.

• Cabbage webworms are small 3/8 inch (1 cm.) long, green striped larva that spin webs.
• Cabbage looper is one of the rampant cauliflower bugs that is light green with yellow stripes. The larva loops when it walks. This larva will make tunnels in the cauliflower head.
• The cross-striped cabbage worm is a small gray larva with horizontal black stripes and a light green yellow mottled underbelly. Damage occurs as holes in the foliage, which can destroy the plant's ability to harvest solar energy and diminish overall health.
• An imported cabbage worm is green with a narrow orange stripe down the back.

Many parasitic wasps and Bacillus thuringiensis are useful to combat these pests.

Other Bugs on Cauliflower Plants

Slug and snail damage are characteristic with holes and slimy trails over the foliage. Pick off the pests at night or use diatomaceous earth for controlling cauliflower insects such as these. Another insect that can be repelled by diatomaceous earth is the flea beetle. The small bronze to black beetle leaves holes in foliage while its larva feed on young plant roots. Blister beetles are 3/8 inch (1 cm.) long and gray. They chew holes in leaves causing foliar death. Use pyrethrum and cultivate in spring to kill the larva. The yellow margined leaf beetle has wings bordered by gold, but its attractive appearance belies its danger to crops. Adults and larva eat the leaves of cauliflower. Use non-toxic safe methods for treating bugs in cauliflower to preserve the crop and retain its safety for eating. In addition to diatomaceous earth, horticultural oils and soaps and hand picking, the natural bacteria Bacillus thuringiensis is an excellent control. You may also purchase natural enemies in the form of beneficial nematodes and wasps.

Just like people, all plants have strengths and weaknesses. Again, just as with people, companionship fosters our strengths and minimizes our weaknesses. Companion planting pairs two or more types of plants for the mutual benefit of each other. In this particular article, we’re going to delve into cauliflower companion planting. What cauliflower companion plants grow well with cauliflower? Let’s learn more.

Companion Planting Cauliflower

Before we talk about the specific plants that grow well with cauliflower, let’s look at exactly what companion planting is. As mentioned, companion planting is when two or more species are planted together for their mutual benefit. Sometimes this enables plants to uptake nutrients more efficiently or sometimes certain plants act as natural pest repellents or beneficial insect attractors. 

Choosing the correct plant to benefit another mimics nature’s symbiotic relationship in the ecosystem. In nature, there is no mistake when you find certain types of plants commonly growing together. One of the oldest and most commonly known companion plantings is called “The Three Sisters,” comprised of corn, pole beans, and squash. 

The Iroquois had been applying this growing principle for three centuries prior to the arrival of the first settlers. The trio sustained the tribe by not only providing them with a balanced diet but spiritually as well. The Iroquois believed that the plants were a gift from the gods. Metaphorically speaking, the Three Sisters support each other much as real-life sisters do. 

The beans used the corn as support while engendering nitrogen, which can then be used by the corn and squash. The beans also grow up through the sprawling squash, effectively knitting the three together. The large leaves of the squash provide shaded areas that cool the soil and retard weeds and also keep nibbling critters away with their prickly stems. But, I digress. Let’s get back to cauliflower companion plants.

Cauliflower Companion Planting

Beans, celery, and onions are all excellent choices when companion planting cauliflower. Beans and cauliflower are an ideal combo. Both plants deter pests and attract beneficial insects. Celery also attracts beneficial insects and is a water hog, which means while it may utilize plenty of water, it leaves more nutrients in the soil for the cauliflower. 

While onions and cauliflower are a great combo, they are not if you throw beans into the mix. Beans and onions do not mix, so avoid planting beans too if you want to grow cauliflower and onions. Other veggies that are recommended for companion planting with cauliflower include:

• Beets
• Broccoli
• Brussels sprouts
• Chard
• Spinach
• Cucumber
• Corn
• Radish

Some herbs, such as sage and thyme, are also beneficial to cauliflower. Their strong scents deter some pests while their aromatic flowers attract bees. 

Besides avoiding the combination of cauliflower, onion, and beans, there are other plants that are not recommended for cauliflower companion planting. 

Peas and cauliflower do not mix well. The peas will stunt the growth of cauliflower. Strawberries are taboo too. Strawberries (and I can attest to this) are notorious for attracting slugs. Tomatoes are also not recommended for growing near cauliflower. They need a tremendous amount of nutrition, which will lessen the amount the cauliflower has available.

I love cauliflower and usually grow some in the garden. I generally buy bedding plants although cauliflower can be started from seed. That fact gave me a thought. Where do cauliflower seeds come from? I’ve never seen them on my plants. Let’s learn more.

Growing Cauliflower Seeds

Cauliflower is a cool-season biennial in the Brassicaceae family. Amongst its species name of Brassica oleracea, cauliflower shares ties with:

• Brussels sprouts
• Broccoli
• Cabbage
• Collards
• Kale
• Kohlrabi

Generally, cauliflower is white, although there are some colorful purple varieties out there and even a green, spiky variety called Veronica Romanesco. Cauliflower needs well-draining, fertile soil that is rich in organic matter. While it prefers a soil pH of 6.0 to 7.5, it will tolerate slightly alkaline soil. Prepare the bed by tilling the soil down 12 to 15 inches (31-38 cm.) and mixing in compost to a 6 inch (15 cm.) depth. Choose a site with at least six hours of full sun. Plant seeds three weeks before the last frost for spring or seven weeks prior to the first frost for fall crops or start seeds indoors four to six weeks before the average last frost-free date. If you start the cauliflower indoors to be transplanted, keep in mind that it doesn’t like to have its roots messed with. So, it is best to start the seeds in peat or paper pots. Plant the seeds ¼ to ½ inches (6 mm. to 1 cm.) deep and keep them moist and in a warm area of between 65 and 70 degrees F. (18-21 C.). When the growing cauliflower seeds are ready to transplant, be sure to harden them off before setting them into the garden. Space plants 18 to 24 inches (46-61 cm.) apart to give them plenty of room for their large leaves. Keep the plants moist or the heads become bitter. Also, feed the plants with an organic fertilizer every two to four weeks.

Where Do Cauliflower Seeds Come From?

Okay, now we know how to grow cauliflower from seed, but what about saving cauliflower seeds? As with other Brassica members, cauliflower only sends up stalks in its second year. In the first year, the plant produces a head and, if left unpicked, in the second year seed pods emerge in summer. In a warm climate, getting them to bolt is easy but in a cold climate, harvesting cauliflower seeds is a little more labor intensive. The first thing to know if saving cauliflower seeds is that the plants are insect pollinated and, as such, they will cross with all other members of Brassica. You need an isolation area of ½ mile (805 m.) for pure seed. Buildings, tree lines, and woods cut down on this isolated area. If you are bound and determined to save seed, you probably want to set aside at least six of the healthiest plants. Don’t harvest the heads. They need to stay on into the second year. If you live in a warm climate, the cauliflower can stay in its bed for the two years it takes to produce seeds. If you live in an area that has extended freezing, the plants need to be dug up in the fall. Store them over winter and then replant them in the spring. If your temps typically only drop below freezing for a few weeks, but not below 28 degrees F. (-2 C.), you can plant cauliflower in the fall and harvest the seed the next summer.

Harvesting Cauliflower Seeds

To harvest the seeds, gather the seed stalks when the seed pods are fully mature and dry on the plant. Use a screen to winnow the chaff from the seed. You can store seeds in a cool, dry area for up to five years.

Can you grow cauliflower in a container? Cauliflower is a large vegetable, but the roots are surprising shallow. If you have a container wide enough to accommodate the plant, you can definitely grow this tasty, nutritious, cool-season veggie. Read on to learn about container gardening with cauliflower.

How to Grow Cauliflower in Pots

When it comes to growing cauliflower in containers, the first consideration, obviously, is the container. A large pot with a width of 12 to 18 inches (31-46 cm.) and minimum depth of 8 to 12 inches (8-31 cm.) is adequate for one plant. If you have a larger pot, such as a half-whiskey barrel, you can grow up to three plants. Any type of container will work, but be sure it has at least one good drainage hole in the bottom, as your cauliflower plants will rot quickly in soggy soil.

For growing cauliflower in containers, the plants need a loose, lightweight potting mix that holds moisture and nutrients but drains well. Any quality commercial potting soil consisting of ingredients such as peat, compost, fine bark, and either vermiculite or perlite works well. Never use garden soil, which quickly becomes compacted and prevents air from reaching the roots.

You can start cauliflower seeds indoors about a month before the average frost in your climate, or you can plant seeds directly outdoors in the container when temperatures are about 50 degrees F. (10 C.). However, the easiest way to begin container gardening with cauliflower is to purchase seedlings at a garden center or nursery. Plant seedlings about a month before the last average frost date if you want to harvest cauliflower in spring. For a fall crop, plant seedlings about six weeks before the last average frost in your area.

Cauliflower Care in Pots

Place the container where the cauliflower receives at least six hours of sunlight per day. Water the plant until water runs through the drainage hole whenever the soil feels dry to the touch. Don’t water if the potting mix is still damp because plants can rot quickly in soggy soil. However, never allow the mix to become bone dry. Check the container every day, as soil in containers dries quickly, especially during hot, dry weather.

Feed the cauliflower monthly, using a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer. Alternatively, mix a dry, time-release fertilizer into the potting mix at planting time.

Your plants may need a little help to ensure the vegetables are tender and white when you’re ready to harvest. This process, known as “blanching,” simply involves protecting the heads from direct sunlight. Some varieties of cauliflower are “self-blanching,” which means the leaves curl naturally over the developing head. Watch the plants carefully when the heads are about 2 inches (5 cm.) across. If the leaves aren’t doing a good job at protecting the heads, help them along by pulling the large, outside leaves up around the head, then secure them with a piece of string or a clothespin.

Cauliflower is a cool season crop that is a bit more finicky regarding its climactic needs than its relatives broccoli, cabbage, kale, turnips, and mustard. Sensitivity to weather and environmental conditions make cauliflower prone to numerous growing problems. Usually, the issues center on cauliflower curd problems such as headless cauliflower. What are some of these conditions that can affect cauliflower head development?

Cauliflower Growing Problems

Cauliflower has two phases of growth-- vegetative and reproductive. The reproductive phase means head or curd growth and any number of conditions during the reproductive phase such as unusually hot weather, drought, or low temps can result in small premature heads or “buttons.” Some people think of this as a headless cauliflower. If you have no head on your cauliflower, it's undoubtedly stress affecting the plant. Stresses that affect cauliflower development may be overly cold soil or air temps in the spring, lack of irrigation or nutrition, root bound plants, and insect or disease damage. Cultivars that mature more quickly are more susceptible to stress than those that need a longer growing period.

Troubleshooting Cauliflower Curd Problems

To avoid having tiny buttons or even no head on a cauliflower plant, proper care must be taken when planting and during follow-up care.

• Moisture – Soil should always be moist to a depth of 6 inches (15 cm.). Consistent moisture is necessary for the plants to develop full heads. They need additional water the later in the season that you plant it since cauliflower grown into the warmer parts of summer obviously need more water than those grown in the cool early spring.
• Temperature – Cauliflower doesn’t tolerate warm temps and must be planted early enough to mature before the hot weather. Some varieties of cauliflower may need to be blanched to protect the heads from sun damage prior to harvest. This means the leaves of the plant are tied over the developing heads much like a kerchief.
• Nutrition – Sufficient nutrition is also crucial for proper head development. No head on a cauliflower plant may be a symptom of a lack of nutrients, especially since cauliflower is a heavy feeder. Amend the soil with compost, well tilled in, and apply a 5-10-10 fertilizer at the rate of 3 pounds (1 kg.) per 100 square feet (9.29 sq. m.) just before transplanting. It’s also a good idea to side dress with nitrogen at three to four weeks post transplantation in the amount of 1 pound (0.5 kg.) per 100 foot (30.5 m.) row.

Monitor the cauliflower for any signs of insect or disease, provide plenty of nutrition, and consistent irrigation and you should be seeing beautiful, large white cauliflower heads in no time.

Cauliflower is one of my favorite veggies. I love it roasted with garlic and lemon then finished with a light dusting of grated asiago cheese. An excellent heirloom variety for growing is the Early Snowball cauliflower, so named since it begins to mature just 65 days after transplantation. That's helpful to those of us who just can't wait to sink out teeth into this tasty treat.

Early Snowball Variety of Cauliflower

Early Snowball cauliflower plants were introduced by Peter Henderson and Company in the United States in 1888 where it became a popular varietal due to its beautiful, tightly formed heads and early harvest. The plants sport smooth 6- to 7-inch heads with compact white curds that are crisp, yet tender. I'm salivating already. Early Snowball variety (Brassica oleracea) grows well in most climates; however, it thrives in cooler weather, making it the perfect varietal for growing in my neck of the woods, the Pacific Northwest. It is well adapted for forcing or over wintering for early crops in warmer climes.

Growing Early Snowball Cauliflower

If you are lacking an extremely long growing season, Early Snowball needs to be started indoors. Start seeds 4-6 weeks before transplanting outdoors. Plant the seeds ¼ inch deep and provide them with bottom heat and an overhead grow light while keeping the soil moist. Germination should occur between 8-10 days. Harden off the seedlings prior to transplanting by placing them for short increments of time outside, gradually extending the exposure from a few hours to a full day and then overnight. Transplant 12 weeks before the average first fall frost so the heads will mature during cooler temperatures. If sowing directly outdoors, sow 1-2 weeks before the average last frost in your region in warm climates, or 10-12 weeks before the first fall frost. Sow seed in the early fall for winter harvest in USDA zone 8 or warmer. Seeds should be planted in groups of four, spaced 2 feet apart in rows 2 feet apart. Thin the seedlings when they are 2 inches tall. When left to their own devices, cauliflower heads tend to have a yellowish or greenish look rather than the snowy white that Early Snowball cauliflower is known for. For a perfectly white head, be sure to wrap them, also called blanching, with its own leaves to protect it from the sun, which will cause discoloration.

Cauliflower is a member of the Brassica family grown for its head or curd, which is composed of a cluster of flowers. The head is most often pure white to a slight cream in color, but what if there is a purple tint on cauliflower? Is it safe to eat purple cauliflower?

Help, My Cauliflower Turned Purple!

It happened to me the first time I grew cauliflower in my home garden; my cauliflower turned purple. It was my first foray into vegetable growing, about 20 years or more ago. Everything was an experiment. The Internet was more or less non-existent, so I often relied on my mother or aunt to clue me in on gardening problems and possible solutions. Thankfully, they told me this purple tint on cauliflower was not a disease, fungus or pest. Cauliflower is a cool weather veggie which thrives in the cool temperatures of spring and fall. As mentioned, it is grown for its whitish to cream-colored head or curd. But cauliflower naturally has a range of colors, even tending towards purple, yellow, red or blue tints. This purple color in cauliflower is caused by the presence of anthocyanin, which is exacerbated by sun exposure. It is a harmless water soluble pigment found in colorful foods such as grapes, plums, berries, red cabbage and eggplant. Certain varieties, such as 'Snow Crown,' have a stronger propensity for a purple color in cauliflower heads.

Preventing Cauliflower with Purple Tinge

To prevent growing cauliflower that has a purple tinge to it, purchase a self-blanching variety which has been developed to reduce problems with curd tinting, or blanch or cover the head as it is developing. Also, schedule the maturation of the cauliflower for cooler months such as September and October. Lengthy, hot summer days will cause a purple color in cauliflower heads; you may even see leaves sprouting out of the curd. If this has already happened, there's nothing to be done about it except to take note for next year's crop. To blanch a cauliflower head, tie the outer leaves over the developing curd when it is 2 inches (5 cm.) across, securing them with a clip or gardening twine. The leaves will shield the developing curd from the sun and allow it to maintain its whitish coloration. Planting time for cauliflower is also an important consideration to avoid the formation of purplish curds. Cauliflower needs daytime temps of between 70-85 F. (21-29 C.) but with an early enough start time for a long enough growing season to support maturation of a large head. If you plant too early, however, a late season frost can kill the young cauliflower. You may need to look for early maturing or late maturing varieties, depending on the climate in your area and the length of your growing season. The earliest varieties mature in just 60 days and, in some regions, you can get an early harvest and then replant in June for a fall harvest.

Is It Safe to Eat Purple Cauliflower?

If it's too late and the cauliflower curd is already tinged purple, don't despair. Purple cauliflower is perfectly safe to eat. It may have a bit of an “off” flavor and, as such, you may want to use it raw; cooking it will only increase the “off” flavor. Heating the purplish florets will also change the color from purple to gray or slate blue, especially if your water is hard or has an alkaline pH -- not the most appetizing hues. If you can't stand raw cauliflower and want to cook it, add a bit of vinegar or cream of tartar (tartaric acid) to the water to minimize the color change.

Cauliflower, a member of the Brassicaceae family, is a cool-season vegetable that is more difficult to grow than its Brassicacea brethren. As such, it is susceptible to a number of cauliflower curd problems, one of which is loose heads on cauliflower.

Why is My Cauliflower Curd Loose?

Cauliflower is a bit picky regarding its environmental conditions. For optimal results when growing cauliflower, it is best started from transplants for both spring and fall crops. Cauliflower is far more sensitive to cold temperatures than its cabbage family counterparts, so it is imperative to only transplant two to three weeks after the last frost date for your area. Cauliflower needs to be started early enough so that it matures before the heat of summer, yet not so early that cold can potentially damage it. Any inconsistencies in the cauliflower's environment, such as extreme cold, heat, or drought, can result in malformation of the head, or curd, of the vegetable. To specifically answer the question of why you have loose heads on your cauliflower, hot weather is most likely to blame. Cauliflower does not enjoy big fluxes in the thermometer; it prefers cooler temps. Be sure to plant cauliflower early enough to avoid this cauliflower curd problem. Also, give cauliflower plants ample water and room enough between plants for vigorous growth. Consistent and plentiful irrigation is essential to prevent loose cauliflower heads. Excessive nitrogen may also cause loose heads in not only cauliflower, but broccoli as well. The curd is still edible, just not as attractive.

Proper Care to Prevent Cauliflower Curd Problems

As mentioned, cauliflower should be planted when the weather is cool but after any potential frost. Seeds should be germinated in temps from 45-85 degrees F. (7-29 C.) and will germinate in five to 10 days. Start indoors and transplant in early spring or direct sow midsummer for a fall harvest. Space plants 18 x 24 inches (46 x 61 cm.) or 18 x 36 inches (46 x 91 cm.) in moist, well-draining soil with a high organic content. It's a good idea to side-dress cauliflower with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer when the plants are half grown and maintain a consistent amount of irrigation. Some varieties of cauliflower need to be blanched; blanching entails tying the outer leaves around the head to protect it from sunburn. This process keeps sunlight from stimulating the production of green chlorophyll in the head. A few varieties have a natural tendency to curl leaves around the head and, therefore, do not need to be blanched. Blanch cauliflower when it is dry to prevent disease. Once blanched, the mature head should be ready for harvest seven to 12 days later. Loose heads in cauliflower, as well as a number of other problems, are caused by stress during the growing process. Baby your cauliflower plants and prevent any huge changes in temperature or moisture.

Learning how or when to blanch a cauliflower is a commonly asked gardening question, and an important thing to know. To help with becoming familiar with this garden procedure, let's learn more about blanching cauliflower.

What is Blanching?

For many people, particularly those familiar with the vocabulary of cooking and preserving food, blanching means plunging a fruit or vegetable into boiling water for a very short period of time to stop the maturation process, then rapidly transferring it to ice water so the item does not become fully cooked. What is blanching in vegetable gardening, however, is something entirely different. It is the technique of covering a plant or plant part to prevent the development of color. Blanching cauliflower is such a technique. That's what gives the vegetable its creamy white color. Does cauliflower have to be blanched? Technically, no. Blanching has nothing to do with head development or nutritional content. However, if you don't, the curds will be greenish brown rather than white and the flavor will be stronger, almost bitter. Since this is one of the more difficult garden vegetables to grow well, why wouldn't you take the extra step of blanching cauliflower to add to the pleasure of harvesting a perfectly formed, sweet tasting head? Learning how to blanch cauliflower isn't difficult and the results will be well worth the effort.

When and How to Blanch Cauliflower

Cauliflower needs cool temperatures, a consistent supply of moisture, and lots of fertilizer. To get white curds on many varieties, it is necessary to tie up the leaves around the developing curd. The first thing to know is when to blanch a cauliflower head. Start checking your plants about 30 days after transplanting your seedlings. The curds develop quickly and it's that development that tells you when to blanch. A cauliflower curd about the size of a chicken egg is perfect. Smaller curds are already protected from the light by the leaves surrounding them. As they grow, they become more exposed and this is the time to begin blanching. Cauliflower curds develop rapidly into full heads so the window is small. Cauliflower is extremely susceptible to fungus, so the second condition of when to blanch a cauliflower would be the driest part of the day. You don't want to trap moisture inside your leaf cover. How to blanch cauliflower successfully is the next step. When the curd is 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) in diameter (about the size of that egg) the large outer leaves should be tied up and over the emerging curds. The easiest way to do this is to tie the leaves with rubber bands, tape, or twine. If you're using rubber bands, be sure they are sturdy enough to contain the growing leaves and heads. The leaves should be tied loosely to give the curds plenty of room to grow. Since the curds develop at different rates, you'll need to check your plants for several days, tying up those that are ready. If your planting is large, using a different color band or string for each day will prove useful for harvest, as those heads that were tied first will be ready for harvest first. Time from tying to harvest varies from four to five days during warm spring weather and 14 to 21 days during the cool days of autumn.

Does Cauliflower Have to be Blanched?

A small caveat to this question should be noted. There are varieties that are self-blanching. Their leaves have been bred to curl up and over the developing head and for the most part, are successful. Their downfall comes with the development of extra large curds where the leaves simply aren't long enough to do the job. There are also more colorful varieties on the market and because they aren't white may, at first glance, appear not to need blanching. Cauliflower such as these will still develop chlorophyll and will lose their unique color if not protected from the sun. The exception to this would be the plant known as purple cauliflower, which isn't cauliflower at all. It's broccoli. Knowing when to blanch a cauliflower and how to blanch cauliflower will add the perfect finishing touches to a vegetable that is often difficult to grow.

Cauliflower is a popular garden crop. One of the most commonly asked questions we hear is when to cut cauliflower or how to harvest cauliflower.

When is Cauliflower Ready to Pick?

As the head (curd) begins to grow, it will eventually become discolored and bitter tasting from sunlight. To avoid this, cauliflower is often blanched to keep the sun off the head and whiten the cauliflower. Generally, this is done when the head reaches about the size of a tennis ball, or 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) in diameter. Simply pull up about three or four large leaves and tie or fasten them loosely around the cauliflower head. Some people cover them with pantyhose too. Since the cauliflower head develops rather quickly in ideal growing conditions, it will usually be ready for harvest within a week or two after the blanching process. It's a good idea to keep an eye on it to determine when to harvest cauliflower and avoid its becoming too mature, which results in grainy cauliflower. You'll want to pick the cauliflower once the head is full but before it has begun to separate, usually at about 6 to 12 inches (15-31 cm.) in diameter is when to cut cauliflower.

How to Harvest Cauliflower

The mature head should be firm, compact, and white. When you're ready to harvest the cauliflower head, cut it from the main stem but leave a few of the outer leaves attached to help protect the head and prolong its overall quality until ready to eat. Be sure to handle the head carefully as it can bruise rather easily.

After the Cauliflower Harvest

Once harvested, it's usually recommended that you soak the head in salt water (2 tbsp to 1 gal) for about 20 to 30 minutes. This will help expel any cabbageworms that may be hiding inside the head. These pests will quickly come out and die so the head will not only be safe to eat but can be stored without worrying about having it feasted on. Cauliflower keeps best when frozen or canned but it will keep for up to a week or so in the refrigerator if wrapped in protective wrap.

If you’ve been wondering how to plant cauliflower (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis), you’ll find that it is not difficult once you know what it likes. Growing cauliflower can be done alongside other closely related plants like broccoli, kale and turnips.

Many gardeners don’t bother growing cauliflower, as it has the reputation of being one of the more temperamental crops and with good reason. Bringing cauliflower to fruition means knowing when is the best time to plant and when to harvest cauliflower. Read on to learn how to plant cauliflower and other helpful cauliflower planting tips to make this crop a success.

Best Time to Plant Cauliflower

Cauliflower is a cool season veggie from the Brassicaceae family, which includes broccoli, and, in fact, cauliflower is often referred to as ‘heading broccoli.’ Unlike broccoli, however, which produces multiple side shoots, cauliflower only produces a single head which means you have one chance to get it right.

The main thing to remember is that the plant thrives in temperatures around 60-65 F. (16-18 C.) and no higher than 75 F. (24 C.). Of all the cole crops, cauliflower is the most sensitive to temperature. When temperatures exceed 75 F., the plants have a tendency to button or bolt.

The best time to plant most varieties of cauliflower is in the spring so they grow and produce their flower heads before summer’s hot temperatures ramp up. Other varieties are suited for mid-summer planting for a fall harvest. A good fall recommendation is its pointy, green Romanesco cousin.

How to Plant Cauliflower

For spring sown cauliflower, start seed indoors in April. For fall crops, start seed in July, either sown indoors or direct sown in the garden. Do not transplant any earlier than 2-3 weeks prior to the average frost-free date for your area. This can be rather tricky in that it is important to start cauliflower early enough so it matures before the heat arrives but not so early that cold spring temps damage the plants.

Sow seeds ¼ inch (6 mm.) deep in peat pots or in furrows in well-draining potting soil. Once the seeds have germinated, continue to grow them in an area of direct sun or under grow lights and maintain a temperature of 60 F. (16 C.). Keep the seedlings moist.

Transplant the plants 2 feet (.5 m.) apart in rows that are 30-36 inches (76-91 cm.) apart.

Cauliflower Planting Tips

Early maturing varieties are more susceptible to buttoning than later cultivars.

Keep the plants moist but not soggy. Mulch around young plants to help retard weeds and retain moisture.

Harden off seedlings for 5 days to a week before transplanting outside by setting them in the shade and then gradually exposing them to longer periods of sun. Transplant on a cool, cloudy day or late in the afternoon to avoid stressing the plants.

Fertilize at transplanting with a liquid fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s instructions and again when the plants are established, side dressing with nitrogen rich compost.

White cauliflower should be blanched, while green, orange and purple cultivars need sun to develop their colors. When the head is golf to tennis ball size, tie the outer leaves loosely over the developing head with a soft cloth or nylon. This will protect it from sunscald and keep it from turning yellow.

When to Harvest Cauliflower

Cauliflower is ready to harvest a week or two after blanching, or covering the heads. Check the heads every couple of days. Harvest when the heads are 6 plus inches (15+ cm.) across but before the flower parts begin to separate.

Cut the cauliflower from the plant with a large knife, leaving at least one set of leaves to protect the head.