Planting European cutting celery (Apium graveolens var. secalinum) is a way to have fresh celery leaves for salads and cooking, but without the hassle of cultivating and blanching stalk celery. As the name implies, this type of celery originated in Europe, where it was used long ago for culinary and medicinal purposes. Read on for more Par-Cel herb info.

What is Par-Cel Cutting Celery?

Related to both stalk celery and celeriac, European cutting celery descended from wild celery which grew in marshes throughout the Mediterranean. Bred for sweeter-tasting leaves, varieties of cutting celery spread throughout Europe and Asia as far back as 850 BCE.

Par-Cel is a Dutch heirloom variety of European cutting celery. Named for its celery flavor and physical resemblance to parsley, Par-Cel cutting celery grows in a clump. It has long, slender stalks which branch at the top to hold clusters of parsley shaped leaves. 

Growing Leaf Celery

Many gardeners find growing leaf celery infinitely easier than stalk varieties. Par-Cel cutting celery can be directly sown in the garden, but can be difficult to germinate. Starting cutting celery indoors during late winter is recommended.

Sow seeds thinly on the surface of the soil as celery requires direct light for germination. To avoid disturbing emerging roots, allow water to wick up from below rather than watering from the top. Expect germination in one to three weeks.

Par-Cel cutting celery can be started in seed pots or cell seed starting trays and thinned to one plant per cell. If starting in a non-divided flat, transplant seedlings when the first set of true leaves are formed.

European cutting celery can be planted outdoors in sun to partial shade after danger of frost. Space plants 10 inches (25 cm.) apart in the garden. It appreciates relatively fertile soil that is kept consistently moist.

Par-Cel repels cabbage white butterflies and is a good companion plant for members of the Brassicaceae family. It also makes an attractive container plant. Try growing leaf celery among other herbs in a vertical garden or including Par-Cel in flowerpots with cosmos, daisies, and snapdragons.

Harvesting European Cutting Celery

Harvest younger leaves individually for fresh use in salads. Once cutting celery is established (about four weeks after planting outdoors), the stems can be mass harvested by cutting above the growing point. Cutting celery will regrow and can be harvested multiple times throughout the season.

Mature leaves have a stronger flavor and are best reserved for cooked dishes like soups or stews. The leaves can also be dried and used for seasoning. Use a dehydrator or hang the stalks upside down in a well-ventilated area. Crush or grind the dried leaves before storing.

Often cultivated as an annual, growing leaf celery as a second-year biennial allows gardeners to harvest yet another crop from this versatile plant. Protect the roots in the winter by mulching. The following spring, leaf celery will produce a flourish of flowers. Once mature, collect the celery seed for seasoning.

If you’ve ever used celery seed or salt in a recipe, what you are using is not actually celery seed. Instead, it is the seed or fruit from the smallage herb. Smallage has been harvested wild and cultivated for centuries and used medicinally for a variety of folkloric conditions. It is also called wild celery and, indeed, has many of the same attributes. Read on to learn about growing wild celery and other interesting smallage plant info.

What is Smallage?

As mentioned, smallage (Apium graveolens) is often referred to as wild celery. It has a similar, yet more intense, flavor and aroma than celery along with similar looking stalks, but the stalks are not usually eaten. Smallage stalks are much more fibrous than celery stalks.

The leaves can be used in a variety of ways and have a strong celery flavor. They look almost exactly like flat-leaved parsley. Plants get to about 18 inches (46 cm.) in height.

Additional Smallage Plant Info

Smallage blooms with insignificant white flowers followed by seeds that are often used to make celery salt. The herb is said to repel some insects, such as cabbage white butterfly. This makes them useful as a companion plant near plants in the Brassica family.

The Renaissance magician Agrippa noted that smallage was useful in conjunction with other herbs and burned it as an incense to either dispel or gather together spirits. The ancient Romans related smallage to death and used it in their funeral wreaths. The ancient Egyptians also connected the herb with death and wove it into funerary wreaths. It was said to have been worn around King Tutankhamen’s neck as well.

It is variously said to be calming and sedating or sexually stimulating and arousing, depending upon the century. Gout sufferers have used wild celery to reduce the uric acid levels in their blood, as the herb contains several anti-inflammatories.

Smallage herb is not only referred to as wild celery but also as marsh parsley and leaf celery. The celery we know today was created by selective breeding throughout the 17^th and 18^th centuries.

How to Grow Wild Celery Plants

Smallage is a biennial, which means that the plant will bloom and set seed in its second year. It is also sometimes grown as an annual down to 5 degrees F. (-15 C.) but it will survive in warmer regions as a biennial.

Seeds can be started indoors and then transplanted outside once all danger of frost has passed for your area. Otherwise, start seeds outside soon after the last spring frost.

Sow the seeds ½ inch (1 cm.) deep and just barely cover with soil in rows in a sunny area of the garden. Seeds should germinate in about a week or two. Thin the seedlings to about a foot (31 cm.) apart.

Harvest leaves prior to bloom time as needed or harvest the entire plant by cutting it ¾ of the way down. If harvesting for seeds, wait until the second year, post bloom, and then harvest the dried seeds. If you do not cut or pinch out blooms, the plant will self-sow later in the year.

Blight is a common disease of celery plants. Of the blight diseases, cercocspora or early blight in celery is the most common. What are the symptoms of cercospora blight? The following article describes the symptoms of the disease and discusses how to manage celery cercospora blight.

About Cercospora Blight in Celery

Early blight of celery plants is caused by the fungus Cercospora apii. On leaves, this blight manifests as light brown, circular to mildly angular, lesions. These lesions may appear oily or greasy and may be accompanied by yellow halos. The lesions may also have gray fungal growth. The leaf spots dry out and leaf tissue becomes papery, often splitting and cracking. On petioles, long, brown to gray lesions form. Celery cercospora blight is most common when temperatures are 60 to 86 degrees F. (16-30 C.) for at least 10 hours with a relative humidity that is near 100%. At this time, spores are produced prodigiously and are spread by wind to susceptible celery leaves or petioles. Spores are also released by the movement of farm equipment and splashing water from irrigation or rainfall. Once the spores land on a host, they germinate, infiltrate the plant tissue, and spread. Symptoms appear within 12 to 14 days of exposure. Additional spores continue to be produced, becoming epidemic. Spores survive on old infected celery debris, on volunteer celery plants, and on seed.

Management of Celery Cercospora Blight

Since the disease is spread via seed, use cercospora resistant seed. Also, spray with a fungicide immediately after transplanting when the plants are most susceptible to the disease. The local extension office for your area will be able to help you with a recommendation of the type of fungicide and spraying frequency. Depending upon the incidence of favorable conditions for your region, the plants may need to be sprayed two to four times per week. For those growing organically, cultural controls and some copper sprays may be used for organically grown produce.

Celery is a challenging plant for home gardeners and small farmers to grow. Since this plant is so picky about its growing conditions, people who make the attempt can end up putting a lot of time into keeping it happy. That’s why it’s heartbreaking when your celery gets infected with a plant disease. Read on for information on one celery disease you may encounter.

What is Stalk Rot in Celery?

Rotting stalks in celery are often a sign of infection with the fungus Rhizoctonia solani. Stalk rot, also called crater rot or basal stalk rot, develops most frequently when the weather is warm and wet. The same soil-borne fungus also causes damping off in seedlings of celery and other garden vegetables. Stalk rot typically begins near the base of the outer leaf petioles (stalks) after the fungus invades through wounds or open stomata (pores). Reddish brown spots appear, then later enlarge and become cratered. The infection may progress toward the inner stalks and eventually destroy multiple stalks or the entire base of the plant. Sometimes, Erwinia or other bacteria will take advantage of the lesions to invade the plant, rotting it into a slimy mess.

What to Do for Celery with Stalk Rot

If the infection is present in just a few stalks, strip those off at the base. Once most of the celery stalks are rotten, it is usually too late to save the plant. If you’ve had stalk rot in your garden, you should take measures to prevent disease spread and recurrence. Clear all plant material from the field at the end of the season. Avoid overwatering, and don’t splash or move soil onto the plants’ crowns. It’s also a good idea to practice crop rotation, following celery with a plant that’s not a host for Rhizoctonia solani or with a resistant variety. This species produces sclerotia – hard, black masses that look like rodent droppings – which allow the fungus to survive in the soil for several years.

Additional Celery Stalk Rot Information

On conventional farms, chlorothalonil is commonly applied as a protectant when stalk rot is noticed on some plants in the field. At home, it’s best to use cultural practices to prevent the disease. These include preventing waterlogging of soil, which you can often do by planting on raised beds. Be sure any transplants you purchase are disease-free, and do not transplant too deeply. According to the University of Arizona, providing sulfur fertilizers to plants may help them resist this disease.

Celery root knot nematode is a microscopic type of worm that attacks the roots. Living in the soil, these worms may attack any number of plants, but celery is one that is susceptible. Knowing how to recognize the signs of a nematode attack and how to manage the infestation will help you save your harvest.

What are Root Knot Nematodes in Celery?

Nematodes are parasitic little roundworms that live in the soil and attack the roots of plants. They cause damage to roots, reducing the volume of root systems and reducing the ability of the plant to take up water and nutrients. Root knot nematodes in celery is just one type of damage that can occur because of this pest. Celery is particularly affected by root knot nematodes in muck soil. This refers to the richly organic and dark soil that develops from an ancient swamp or lake. The damage caused to celery by this parasite can limit crop production directly but also by making the plants more susceptible to fungal, viral, or bacterial infections.

Celery Nematode Control

It is first important to be aware of and watch for the signs of nematode damage of celery. The symptoms of an infestation may show up in the roots and in the above ground parts of the plant. Some signs to look for include:

• Stunted roots and stalks
• Galls forming on roots
• Premature wilting of leaves
• Yellowing of leaves
• General poor health, such as not recovering quickly after watering

Unfortunately, controlling root knot nematodes is difficult. Cultural practices may help, such as rotating a patch of garden with plants that are not hosts to nematodes. It is also important to wash gardening equipment carefully after using on infected celery, so as not to spread the worms to other areas. Chemicals used to kill nematodes may have varying effectiveness. They must be introduced into the soil and may require multiple applications to really work. For a current crop of celery that has been damaged by nematodes, you may not get any harvest. If you catch the infection early, you may try to give your plants additional water and fertilizer to help them overcome the reduced ability to absorb them through the roots. You may, however, simply need to destroy your plants and start over next year.

Would it surprise you to learn that the worms on celery plants are caterpillars of the black swallowtail butterfly? Gardeners often feel more regret about dispatching butterfly caterpillars than they would about exterminating stinkbugs or garden spiders. In this article, you’ll find out how to handle these interesting creatures in the garden.

What are Celery Worms?

Larvae of the eastern black swallowtail (Papillo polyxenes asterius) are sometimes seen in the vegetable garden where they munch celery, parsnips, and carrots. You might also see them in the herb garden where they eat dill, parsley, and fennel. Their appearance changes depending on their life stage. Young celery worms might resemble bird droppings. As they age, they develop dark and light stripes punctuated by bright yellow spots. One of their most astonishing features is a bright orange osmeterium, which resembles a pair of horns or antennae. They keep the structure tucked away behind the head but can bring it out into the open when they feel threatened. At the same time, they release an unpleasant odor. If this isn’t enough to warn off predators, they can throw pellets of feces with their mandible.

Controlling Worms on Celery or Leave as Host Plant?

Finding these “worms” eating celery presents gardeners with a dilemma. Should you leave them be and risk losing your crop, or should you exterminate them? One thing that might set your mind at ease is that, while many species of butterflies are in danger of extinction, eastern black swallowtails are secure. Killing a few caterpillars in the garden won’t set the species back. On the other hand, caterpillars on celery plants may not indicate a serious problem. Eastern swallowtails don’t congregate in large numbers like some butterflies, so you may only find a few larval worms on celery. Why not watch them closely to see if they do any real damage? Whether they choose celery as a host plant or one of the other members of the carrot family, the control is the same. If there are only a few, you can handpick them. Wear gloves and drop the caterpillars into a jar of soapy water to kill them. If you find handpicking particularly distasteful, you can spray them with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis), which kills caterpillars by making it impossible for them to digest food. It takes a few days for the caterpillars to die, but they won’t feed on your plants anymore. This method is best used on young caterpillars. Try using neem spray on older caterpillars.

Celery seed is a common kitchen staple used in salads, dressings, and other recipes. It is available in supermarkets, but think how much more flavor the fresh seed from your celery would hold. Saving celery seeds just requires a little timing and knowledge of the life cycle of this plant. Here are some tricks on how to harvest celery seeds, allowing you to capture the intense flavor of the spice when fresh.

Celery Seed Harvesting

Celery seed has a long history of use as a medicament and spice. As an herb, it was thought to help with digestion and appetite, cure colds and flu, enhance liver and spleen health, treat arthritis, and even help reduce water retention. Today, it is primarily used as a seasoning. When you know how to save celery seeds properly, fresh seed can last for up to five years. That is a long-lived product in the spice cupboard that doesn’t cost a thing and may enhance your health. Celery is a biennial plant. That means that it won’t flower until the second year, and you certainly can’t start harvesting celery seeds until then. During the wait for seed-bearing flowers, you can harvest the flavorful stalks, just don’t take the central stalk, which is where the flower will form. In the second year, the central stalk will thicken and an umbel, or umbrella-shaped flower, will appear. The umbel is created out of numerous, tiny florets on short stems. Each floret is a tiny, white flower that collectively creates a burst of stars. Bees and butterflies are quite taken with the blooms, which resemble Queen Anne’s lace. As time marches on, the white petals will begin to fall off and the ovary will swell. This is where the seed is developing.

How to Harvest Celery Seeds

Wait until the seeds dry and turn tan to brown before celery seed harvesting. The swollen ovaries develop a carapace that is hard when ripe and the color deepens. The seeds will have vertical ridges around the edges that are lighter in color than the rest of the seed. You know it is time to harvest when the seeds fall off at the slightest touch or breeze. Harvesting celery seeds with the most flavors relies upon careful observation to ensure the seed is ripe. When the flower head is dry and the individual seeds are hard and dark-colored, cut the bloom carefully and shake the seed into a bag. Alternatively, bend the flower stalk into a bag and shake. This reduces the seed lost during cutting the head. Once celery seed harvesting is finished, it is time to store the seed to preserve its freshness and flavor.

How to Save Celery Seeds

To save whole seeds, pick out any flower debris and make sure seeds are dry before packing them into a container. Place seeds in a glass container with a tight-fitting lid. Label and date the seeds. Store the seeds in a cool, dark location for up to five years. Most cooks use celery seed whole, but you can also choose to grind it. Use a coffee grinder or mortar and pestle to make fresh, ground celery seed, which disperses more evenly in a dish. Saving celery seeds from the garden is a great way to harvest the natural, fresh flavors of the seasoning and tastes more intense than previously jarred seed from the store. Keeping those celery plants into the second year still provides you with tender, peripheral ribs for fresh eating as well as the starry burst of flowers. Harvesting celery seeds is just another boon in the life cycle of the humble celery plant.

Celery is a cool weather crop that takes 16 weeks of optimal weather conditions to mature. If you live in an area that tends to have hot summers or a short growing season as I do, you may never have attempted to grow celery even if you love the crunchy veggie. Since I love celery raw and for use in a variety of dishes, I thought, can I grow celery in a pot? Let’s find out!

Can I Grow Celery in a Pot?

Turns out that yes, container grown celery plants are not only possible but circumvent the vagaries of the weather. Celery grown in pots allows you to move the plant around to keep it in an ideal temperature range. You can also start celery early in pots, well before the frost-free date in your area and then transplant to a larger container to move outside. Let’s look at some tips for growing celery in containers as well as care for celery in a container.

Celery Grown in Pots

So how do you go about growing celery in containers? Celery likes a soil pH of 6.0 to 6.5, alkaline. Limestone amended into acidic soil will cut the acidity. Choose a container that is at least 8 inches (20 cm.) deep and long enough to plant additional celery plants 10 inches (25 cm.) apart. Don’t use unglazed clay pots, if possible, as they dry out quickly and celery likes to stay moist. Plastic containers are a great choice in this instance, as they maintain moist conditions. Amend the soil with plenty of organic compost to aid in retaining moisture. Plant seeds 8 to 12 weeks before the last frost. Germination takes around two weeks. Sow seeds only 1/8 to ½ inch (3 mm. to 1 cm.) deep, covered lightly with soil. For an 8 inch (20 cm.) pot, sow five seeds with 2 inches (5 cm.) between seeds. I know they’re tiny; do the best you can. When the seeds have sprouted, thin out the smallest by half. When the plants are 3 inches tall (8 cm.), thin out to one plant. Keep the plants in an area of at least six hours of sun per day with temps between 60 and 75 degrees F. (15-23 C.) during the day and 60 to 65 degrees F. (15-18 C.) at night.

Care for Celery in a Container

• Celery is a water hog, so be sure to keep the growing celery in a container moist at all times.
• Use an organic fertilizer (fish emulsion or seaweed extract) every two weeks.
• Other than that, once the seedlings have established, there is little to do but wait for those crunchy, zero calorie stalks to mature.

Celery is good for you and delicious when it's crisp and fresh from the garden. If you're just planting, you may want to know the names of plants that grow well with celery. These include other vegetables as well as attractive garden flowers. Read on for more information about companion planting with celery.

Companion Planting with Celery

Companion planting is an important part of integrated pest management in your garden. Deliberately planting crops together can work to bring balance to your garden. The idea of companion planting works on many levels to improve your garden’s ecosystem, including discouraging insect pests without applying potentially harmful pesticides. Experts advise that certain plants will grow well in a garden bed with celery, and that others will limit your crop. While individual results may vary, generally you’ll want to select those plants that grow well with celery for celery companion plants.

Plants That Grow Well with Celery

Those vegetable plants that grow well with celery include:

• Beans
• Leeks
• Onions
• Members of the cabbage family
• Spinach
• Tomatoes

You can plant these veggies in the same bed with celery without any harmful consequences. Moreover, the plants assist each other. For example, the cabbage white butterfly is a pest that attacks members of the cabbage family. The insects are repelled by the scent of celery, so cabbage planted near celery benefits. Some flowers make good companion plants for celery as well. Consider the following flowers for companion planting with celery:

• Cosmos
• Daisies
• Snapdragons

Experts claim that these lovely garden flowers drive off many insects that could harm your crop. At the same time, they attract helpful predators, like parasitic wasps, that eat the other insect pests.

Plants to Avoid as Celery Companion Plants

When it comes to companion planting with celery, it is also important to recognize the plants you should not grow with celery. These are plants that somehow impede the health or growth of celery. Experts say that you shouldn't include any of the following as companion plants for celery:

• Corn
• Irish potato
• Aster flowers

Some also include carrots, parsley, and parsnip on the list of plants that don't make good companion plants for celery.

Celery is a cool weather crop that requires plenty of moisture and fertilizer. This picky crop is susceptible to a number of diseases and pests which can result in a less than optimal harvest. One such malady causes yellowing of celery leaves. So why is celery turning yellow and is there a remedy that helps when celery has yellow leaves?

Help, My Celery Has Yellow Leaves

As mentioned, celery prefers cool weather, consistent irrigation, and plenty of nourishment. Celery thrives in a soil pH of 6 to 7 amended with lots of compost or well-rotted manure. Plants are finicky in that they need to be kept moist, but too much water or mounded wet dirt around the plants may cause them to rot. These delicate plants also like a bit of shade during the hottest parts of the day. Even with the most favorable conditions, celery is still prone to a number of problems that may result in celery with yellow leaves. If the foliage on celery turns yellow, it could be a nutritional deficiency, a pest infestation, or a disease. If your celery has yellow leaves, the plant may have a nitrogen deficiency. The symptom of yellowing leaves begins in the oldest leaves, first gradually affecting all foliage and resulting in stunted plants. Feed the celery with a fertilizer high in nitrogen to correct the imbalance.

Pests Causing Yellowing Celery Leaves

A number of pests may also plague your celery, resulting in yellow leaves. Aphids cause not only yellowing of foliage, but the leaves curl and become deformed. These tiny, yellow to green, pear-shaped insects suck nutrients from the underside of the foliage and leave behind their sticky excrement, or honeydew. Honeydew, in turn, may lead to black sooty mold. Try using a strong spray of water to blast the pests off or use an insecticidal soap. Wireworms, the larvae of click beetles, will also cause celery leaves to yellow and then brown from the bottom up. The plant’s growth is stunted, and it generally declines in health. The larvae live in the soil, so check prior to planting. If you see wiry-jointed worms, flood the soil. If you already have afflicted plants in the ground, remove them and the surrounding soil before attempting to replant.

Diseases Leading to Yellow Celery Leaves

If the foliage on your celery turns yellow, it may be the result of a disease. The three most common diseases afflicting celery are Fusarium yellows, Cercospora leaf, and celery Mosaic virus.

Fusarium yellows

Fusarium yellows of celery is caused by the soil borne fungus, Fusarium oxysporum. Commercial growers experienced staggering field losses from 1920 to the late 1950’s when a resistant cultivar was introduced. Unfortunately, a new strain appeared in the 1970’s. The fungus enters the plant through its root systems. The severity of the disease depends on the weather, specifically warm seasons combined with heavy wet soils, which can increase the number of spores in the soil. Symptoms are yellow leaves along with reddish stalks. The fungus may stay in the soil, dormant, for a number of years and then, given the right conditions, begin to re-colonize. This means that leaving the land to fallow doesn’t always work. Chemical controls show no promise either. If your plot is infected, try a two to three year crop rotation with onions or lettuce. Don’t use corn or carrots since the fungus will multiply in the root areas of these plants. Destroy any infected plants. Use resistant or tolerant celery plants if possible. To reduce the risk of introducing fusarium into the garden, sanitize tools and even shoes, remove any celery detritus, plant in well-draining soil, and keep the area weed free.

Cercospora leaf blight

Cercospora leaf blight infection results in irregular yellow-brown leaf spots combined with elongated blotches on the stalks. This fungal disease is spread by heavy rainfall along with warm temps. Keep the area weed free, as weeds harbor the fungal spores and avoid overhead watering, which spreads them.

Mosaic virus

Lastly, if you have yellow foliage on your celery, it might be Mosaic virus. Mosaic virus has no cure and is spread from plant to plant via aphids and leafhoppers. Destroy any infected plants. In the future, plant resistant varieties and remove weeds that serve as a haven for the virus.

Celery crops take 85 to 120 days from transplant. This means they need a long growing season, but they have very fussy ideas about temperature. The ideal growing range is 60 to 70 degrees F. (15-21 C.). Temperatures that are too cold cause bolting and temperatures that are too warm reduce yield. In addition to temperature requirements, you need to know how far apart to plant celery, its lighting needs, soil preferences, water requirements, and other celery planting instructions. Celery has numerous health benefits and virtually no calories, so get your shovel and get planting.

Celery Planting Instructions

Celery is a biennial plant that is best when harvested in moderately warm temperatures. The stalks can get bitter and pithy in hot weather. Celery has specific soil temperature needs for germination and should experience some light on the seeds to encourage sprouting. This makes the celery planting depth important. Celery is most often transplanted in order to give it a jump start on the season before hot summer days arrive. Once it’s time to transplant in late April, celery plant spacing comes into play. Tight planting forces taller stalks. As a rule, transplants are usually used to establish celery crops. In warmer regions, you may direct sow in late summer for winter crops. Celery needs soil that is loose, rich in organic amendment, and well-draining. It has a shallow root system and needs a celery planting depth of 18 inches (46 cm.) of soil well prepared. Plant seeds in flats in February. Since the seeds need some light to germinate, sprinkle them on the surface of the soil and lightly strew sand over or sow ¼ inch (6 mm.) deep. Keep the flat in light and moderately moist until germination. Transplant young plants in late May to early April or when plants have three to four true leaves.

How Far Apart to Plant Celery

Once seedlings have several sets of true leaves and soil temperatures outside have warmed, it is time to transplant them. Allow the plants to harden off for a few days. Prepare the garden bed by incorporating plenty of compost or other ready to use organic matter. Work into the soil 2 pounds (1 kg.) per 1,000 feet (305 m.) of a 16-16-8 fertilizer. Optimum plant spacing for celery is 10 to 12 inches (25-31 cm.) apart. After a few weeks, you will need to thin the celery out to 12 inches (31 cm.) away from each other. This plant spacing for celery allows for taller petioles and better growth. Some commercial growers prefer slightly larger celery plant spacing. This is because they often clip the leaves two or three times to force shorter, more compact plants which ship more easily.

Harvest and Storage

Celery needs 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) of water per week. Plastic mulch is a good idea to reduce competitive weeds, conserve moisture, and warm soil. You can cut individual stalks at any time. The plant is ready to harvest in its entirety when it is 3 inches (8 cm.) across. The most tender stalks are the inner petioles. These are called the heart and harvest for these generally begins in July. All parts of the plant are edible. You can store celery in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Celery has been shown to reduce blood pressure, lower cholesterol, enhance the immune response, and even help prevent cancer. This popular crop is also grown for its roots and seeds, both useful in stocks and soups, or as a seasoning.

Today, most of us are familiar with stalk celery (Apium graveolens L. var. dulce), but did you know there are other celery plant varieties? Celeriac, for example, is gaining in popularity in the United States and is a different type of celery grown for its root. If you are looking to expand your celery repertoire, you might be wondering about the common varieties of celery available.

Celery Types

Grown for its succulent stalks or petioles, celery dates as far back as 850 B.C. and was cultivated not for its culinary use, but its medicinal purposes. Today, there are three different kinds of celery: self-blanching or yellow (leaf celery), green or Pascal celery, and celeriac. In the United States, green stalk celery is the usual choice and used both raw and cooked.

Stalk celery originally had a tendency to produce hollow, bitter stalks. Italians began cultivating celery in the 17th century and after years of domestication developed celery that produced sweeter, solid stalks with milder flavor. Early growers discovered that celery grown in cool temperatures that is blanched reduces the unpleasant strong flavors of the vegetable.

Types of Celery Plants

Below you will find information on each of the celery plant varieties.

Leaf celery

Leaf celery (Apium graveolens var. secalinum) has a thinner stalk than Pascal and is grown more for its aromatic leaves and seeds. It can be grown in USDA growing zones 5a through 8b and resembles Old World smallage, an ancestor of celery. Among these celery types are:

• Par Cel, an 18th century heirloom variety
• Safir with its peppery, crisp leaves
• Flora 55, which resists bolting

Celeriac

Celeriac, as mentioned, is grown for its delicious root, which is then peeled and either cooked or eaten raw. Celeriac (Apium graveoliens var. rapaceum) takes 100 to 120 days to mature and can be grown in USDA zones 8 and 9.

Varieties of celeriac include:

• Brilliant
• Giant Prague
• Mentor
• President
• Diamante

Pascal

The most commonly used in the United States is stalk celery or Pascal, which thrives in long, cool growing climates in USDA zones 2 through 10. It takes between 105 and 130 days for stalks to mature. Extreme temperatures can greatly affect this type of celery plant’s growth. It favors temperatures below 75 degrees F. (23 C.) with night temps between 50 and 60 degrees F. (10-15 C.).

Some common varieties of celery include:

• Golden Boy, with short stalks
• Tall Utah, which has long stalks
• Conquistador, an early maturing variety
• Monterey, which matures even earlier than Conquistador

There is also wild celery, but it isn’t the type of celery we eat. It grows underwater, usually in natural ponds as a form of filtration. With so many different kinds of celery, the only issue is how to narrow it down to one or two.

When you think of celery, you most likely picture thick, pale green stalks boiled in soups or sautéed with oil and onions. There’s another variety of celery, however, that’s grown just for its leaves. Leaf celery (Apium graveolens secalinum), also called cutting celery and soup celery, is darker, leafier, and has thinner stalks. The leaves have a strong, almost peppery flavor that makes for a great accent in cooking. Keep reading for more leaf celery info.

Growing Celery as Herb Plants

Once it gets going, leaf celery is easy to grow. Unlike celery grown for its stalks, it doesn’t need to be blanched or planted in trenches. Leaf celery prefers partial sun and requires quite a lot of moisture -- plant it in a wet area and water regularly. It grows very well in containers and small spaces, reaching a maximum height of 8-12 inches (20-30 cm.). Germination is a little trickier. Direct sowing does not have a very high success rate. If possible, start your cutting leaf celery indoors two to three months before the last frost date of spring. The seeds need light to germinate: press them into the top of the soil so they’re still exposed and water them from below instead of above so as not to cover them with disturbed soil. The seeds ought to sprout after two to three weeks and should be set outside only after the danger of frost has passed.

Celery Herb Uses

Celery leaf herbs can be treated as a cut and come again plant. This is good, as the flavor is intense and a little goes a long way. Very similar in appearance to flat leaf parsley, cutting leaf celery has a stronger bite to it and nicely complements soups, stews, and salads, as well as anything in need of some garnish with a kick. Hung upside down in a ventilated area, the stalks dry very well and can be stored whole or crumbled.

Celery flowers will lead to celery seed, which is a good thing if you wish to harvest and store the seed for flavoring. It is a bad thing for the stalks themselves, however, as they tend to go bitter and woody with thick strings. Flowering in vegetables is called bolting and is a response to environmental and cultural cues. Bolting in celery means the plant is trying to set seed and ensure its genetic material will be carried on into more favorable growing conditions. Is celery still good after bolting? Well, it’s not going to kill you, but my guess is you would prefer chewable, crispy stalks with a sweet flavor and not the tough ones that develop after flowering occurs.

Bolting in Celery

The celery we use today is a relative of wild celery and a cultivated crop. It is a tender perennial plant that prefers partial sun, cool conditions and consistently moist but not boggy soil. Once summer temperatures heat up and the daylight hours get longer, a typical response in celery is to produce flowers. These are lovely, lacy white umbels of tiny flowers that get the pollinators going but they also signal a change in the plant itself. You can try a few tricks to extend the celery stalk season and prevent bolting celery for a few more weeks or simply enjoy the flowers and seeds and start a new batch of celery for the next year.

Why My Celery is Blooming

It can take 4 to 5 months from seeding to start harvesting your first tender, juicy celery stalks. The plant requires a long cool growing season, which means many gardeners must start seed indoors 10 weeks before planting it outside or resort to “cheats” or purchased seedlings. Soil must also be fertile, well draining but moist and slightly shady. An area with no more than 6 hours of light is preferable. Plants that bloom are doing so in response to some environmental cue. You can nip celery flowers in the bud by providing shade during the heat of the day with row covers and pinching off flowers. Harvest stalks regularly so new ones form. New, young stem growth tends to ward off flowering for a while. When a celery plant has flowers in spite of preventions, it means the plant is not experiencing correct cultural care. It is stressed, or the summer heat is simply too much for the plant and it is going to procreate.

What to Do if Your Celery Plant Has Flowers

There are some celery plants that are low to bolt, which means they flower later in the season than some other cultivars. In areas with early, hot summers, these are the best bet for a longer celery stalk season. Make sure the celery is happy in its home. This means organic rich soil that has been cultivated to a depth of at least 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm.), good drainage and a consistent water supply. I find that plants grown in a dappled light area perform better than those in full sun. Cold snaps are also a potential cause of celery bolting as the plant responds to the threat of extinction by frost and wants to set seed to secure its DNA. Watch out for late season plantings when frost threatens and use cold frames or soil warming blankets to keep the plants warm.

Is Celery Still Good After Bolting?

Celery that has flowered will produce woody stems that are difficult to cut and chew. These still have flavor that can be passed onto stocks and stews, but fish out the stems before serving. Their greatest contribution may be to the compost bin unless you enjoy the flower or want the seed. My celery is blooming currently and is a 6-foot (1.8 m.) tall plant with marvelous huge umbels of fairy-like white flowers. It is attracting bees, wasps and other pollinators to help the other plants in my garden and I consider it a boon. Time enough later to compost the plant, I have decided to enjoy its architectural elegance for the time being. If you are impatient with simple visual beauty, consider that in six weeks you can harvest pungent celery seeds, which are a great addition to many recipes and once toasted have completely different complex flavor from fresh seed.

When you use celery, you use the stalks and then discard the base, right? While the compost pile is a good place for those unusable bottoms, an even better idea is planting the celery bottoms. Yes indeed, regrowing celery from the previously useless base is a fun, economical way to reduce, reuse and recycle what used to be waste. Keep reading to find out how to plant celery bottoms.

How to Plant Celery Bottoms

Most plants grow from seeds, but some grow tubers, stem cuttings, or bulbs. In the case of celery, the plant will actually regenerate from the base and regrow new stalks. This process is called vegetative propagation and it doesn’t only apply to rooting celery from the base. Although the process is a little different, beets, romaine, sweet potatoes, and even herbs like garlic, mint, and basil can all be vegetatively propagated.

A cool weather crop, celery (Apium graveolens) often fails to thrive in the hotter zones of USDA 8 through 10. No worries though; you can begin growing celery bottoms indoors on your windowsill until late in summer when they can be moved outdoors for a fall harvest. At that time, you can harvest only the stalks or pull the entire plant up, use the stalks and then replant the base again.

To begin regrowing celery, cut the bottom root from the stalks, about 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.). Put the base in a jar and fill it up partway with water. Put the jar in a window that gets good light. Soon, you will see small roots and the beginnings of green leafy stalks. At this point, it is time to get it in the garden or into a pot with some soil.

If you're using a pot for planting the celery bottoms, fill it to an inch (2.5 cm.) from the top with potting soil, make a hollow in the center and push the celery bottom down into the soil. Pack additional soil around the base of the root and water until it is damp. Put it in an area with at least six hours of sun per day and keep it moist. You can continue to grow the celery in the pot until the weather cooperates and then move it into the garden.

If you are going to move the rooting celery from the base directly into the garden, work some compost into the soil prior to planting. Choose a cool area of the garden if you are in a warmer region. Celery likes it cool with very fertile and wet soil. Set the celery 6 to 10 inches (15-25 cm.) apart in rows that are spaced 12 inches (31 cm.) apart. Pat the soil up gently around the bases and water in well. Keep the soil consistently moist, but not soggy, throughout its growing season. Side dress the rows with additional compost and work it gently into the soil.

You can begin to harvest your celery when you see stalks that are about 3 inches (8 cm.) long appearing appear from the center of the root. Cutting them actually encourages new growth. Keep harvesting just stalks or allow the stalks to mature and then pull the entire plant. Cut the stalks from the root base and start all over again for a continuous supply of crunchy, delicious celery.

Celery is notorious for being a finicky plant to grow. First of all, celery takes a long time to mature -- up to 130-140 days. Of those 100+ days, you'll need primarily cool weather and plenty of water and fertilizer. Even with careful pampering, celery is prone to all sorts of conditions. A fairly common one is celery that is hollow. What causes hollow celery stalks and what other problems might you encounter with celery plants?

Why is My Celery Hollow Inside?

If you’ve ever bitten into a piece of celery, I’m sure you noticed its crisp texture and satisfying crunch. Water is the key element here, and boy, celery needs a lot of it! Celery roots are short reaching, only about 6-8 inches (15-20 cm.) away from the plant and 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm.) deep. Since celery plants can’t reach out for water, water must be brought to it. Not only does the top part of the soil need to be moist, but those stubby roots need to have nutrients nearby as well. If celery plants are lacking water, the stalks get tough and stringy and/or the plant develops hollow celery stalks. The issue may be exacerbated by hot weather as celery doesn't enjoy hot spells. It thrives where winters are mild, summers are cool, or where there’s a long cool fall growing season. Celery that is hollow inside also may indicate insufficient nutrients. It's important to prepare the garden bed prior to planting celery. Incorporate large amounts of compost or animal manure along with some pre-planting fertilizer (one pound of 5-10-10 for each 30 square feet (9 m.)). While the plant is growing, continue to feed celery with an all-purpose liquid feed every two weeks.

How to Avoid Hollow Stalks

Problems with celery plants abound. Celery is a particular favorite of a plethora of insects including but not limited to:

• Snails
• Slugs
• Nematodes
• Wireworms
• Earwigs
• Aphids
• Leaf miner larvae
• Cabbage looper
• Carrot weevil
• Celery worm
• Blister beetle
• Tomato hornworms

As if all these uninvited dinner guests weren’t enough, celery is also susceptible to a number of diseases such as:

• Cercospora leaf spot
• Fusarium wilt
• Mosaic virus
• Pink rot fungus

Damping off, bolting, and general malaise or death due to temperature fluxes can all be expected when growing celery. Celery is also prone to nutritional deficiencies such as blackheart calcium deficiency and magnesium deficiency. Because this veggie is so difficult to grow, proper preparation of the garden site is imperative. Celery takes a long time to come to fruition, so most people get a jump on the season and start seed inside 10-12 weeks prior to the last frost. Soak the seeds overnight to speed up germination. When plants are 2 inches (5 cm.) tall, transplant them to peat pots or a deeper flat with new soil. Transplant the plants two inches (5 cm.) apart. A week or two before the last frost date, when the plants are 4-6 inches (10-15 cm.) high, the transplants can be moved outside. Harden them off for a week to 10 days to allow them to acclimate to the spring weather before putting them in the previously amended garden, 8 inches (20 cm.) apart. Side dress the celery with 5-10-10 fertilizer or manure tea during the second and third month. Use 1 tablespoon (15 ml.) per plant, sprinkled 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm.) away from the plant in a shallow furrow; cover with soil. If you use tea, continue to apply weekly as you water the plants. Lastly, water, water, water!

A common snack among dieters, stuffed with peanut butter in school lunches, and a nutritious garnish plunked in Bloody Mary drinks, celery is one of the most popular vegetables in the United States. This biennial veggie can be grown easily in most home gardens, but is susceptible to issues such as celery blackheart disorder. What is celery blackheart disorder and is blackheart in celery treatable?

What is Blackheart Disorder?

Celery is a member of the family Umbelliferae amongst whose other members are carrots, fennel, parsley, and dill. It is most often grown for its crunchy, slightly salty stalks, but celery roots and leaves are also used in food preparation. Celery grows best in fertile, well-draining soil with plenty of organic matter. With a small root system, celery is an inefficient nutrient forager, so additional organic matter is essential. This inability to efficiently absorb nutrients is the cause of celery blackheart disorder, the result of a calcium deficiency in celery. Calcium absorption is essential for cell development. Celery blackheart deficiency presents itself as discoloration of the tender young leaves at the center of the plant. These affected leaves turn black and die. Blackheart is also common in other veggies such as:

• Lettuce
• Endive
• Radicchio
• Spinach
• Artichoke

It is known as tip burn when found among these veggies, and as the name suggests, manifests itself as light to dark brown lesions and necrosis along the edges and tips of new leaves developing on the interior of the vegetable. This calcium deficiency in celery is found during July and August when environmental conditions are most optimal and plant growth is at its peak. Calcium deficiencies are not necessarily related to soil calcium levels. They may simply be the byproduct of conditions that favor rapid growth such as warm temps and high fertilization.

How to Treat Celery Blackheart Deficiency

To combat blackheart in celery, prior to planting, work in 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) of well-rotted manure, organic compost, and a complete fertilizer (16-16-8) at a rate of 2 pounds (1 kg.) per 100 square feet (9.29 sq. m.). Dig the mixture into the garden soil down to a depth of 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm.). Good irrigation is also essential to thriving celery plants. Consistent irrigation prevents stress on the plants and allows the inferior nutrient absorbing root system to better increase its calcium intake. Celery needs at least 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) of water, either from irrigation or rainfall, each week during the growing season. Water stress will also cause the celery stalks to become stringy. Regular watering will promote crisp, tender stalks. A drip irrigation system is one of the most efficient methods of watering celery crops. In addition to the initial fertilizer applied at planting, celery will benefit from additional fertilizer. Apply a side dressing of a complete fertilizer at a rate of 2 pounds (1 kg.) per 100 square feet (9.29 sq. m.).

Dieters nibble on it raw. Kids eat it smeared with peanut butter. Cooks use the classic mirepoix, a combination of the trio carrot, onion, and celery to flavor everything from soups and stews to sauces. Originating in the Mediterranean and cultivated since 850 B.C., celery is one of the most commonly eaten vegetables in the United States, with the average American munching on 9 to 10 pounds (4-4.5 kg.) per year. The popularity of this veggie prompts one to grow it in the home garden. Be aware, however, that celery has its share of growing problems, one of which being celery too thin.

Thin Celery Growing Problems

One of the most frequent complaints when growing celery is in regards to the skinny celery stalks. There are a number of reasons why your celery plants are not thick; in other words, stalks of celery too thin. Harvesting too early- First and foremost, celery requires a lengthy maturation period of 130-140 days. Obviously, if you're harvesting celery earlier than that, the celery plants are not yet thick enough, as they are still immature. Also, celery is susceptible to frost, even a light one. Of course, in light of this information, a sudden frost may spur early harvesting, resulting in celery that's too thin. Lack of water- Another reason for skinny celery stalks may be a lack of water. With no calories, a celery stalk is comprised of mostly water-- it's why many folks correlate celery with dieting-- and as such requires vast amounts of irrigation during its growing season. Commercial growers of stalk celery, the type we find in the supermarket, rely on a complex regimen of flood irrigation combined with fertilization to grow thick, crunchy stalks. Too much heat- Celery plants need at least six hours of sun followed by afternoon shade during the hottest part of the day. The vegetable does not do well in hot weather and this too may affect stalk production and girth. Insufficient fertilization- The vegetable also needs significantly rich organic matter for vigorous production. Celery's roots only grow out 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm.) from the plant and 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) deep, so topsoil is providing the bulk of nutrients for growth. Feed celery with a 5-10-10 fertilizer before transplanting. Mulch once the plant is 6 inches (15 cm.) tall with organic matter and side dress with the 5-10-10 fertilizer of manure tea in the second and third months of growth. Type of celery grown- Lastly, the type of celery that you are growing may have some bearing on celery plants with thin stalks. Stalk celery, as mentioned, is the type produced for sale in the grocery store and is specifically chosen for its thick stalks. Celery may also be grown for its leaves, which are edible as well and delicious. Cutting celery is bushier, with numerous small stalks, more leaves, and a stronger flavor. One such, Amsterdam Seasoning Celery, is an heirloom variety sold in the herb section (not veggie). Some folks even grow celeriac, which is grown for its round knobby root, not the thin celery-like stalks.

Celery is a cool-season crop that requires about 16 weeks of cool temperatures to mature. It is best to start celery indoors about eight weeks before the last frost in the spring. When seedlings have five to six leaves, they can be set out. If you live in an area with cool spring and summer weather, you can plant celery outdoors in early spring. Warmer regions can enjoy a fall crop of celery if planted in late summer. Sometimes you may find that your garden grown crop has some very bitter tasting celery stalks. If you wonder, “Why does my celery taste bitter?” continue reading to learn more about the reasons for pungent celery.

How to Keep Celery from Tasting Bitter

In order to determine what makes celery bitter, assess your growing conditions. Celery needs extraordinarily rich, moisture-retentive soil that is slightly wet but drains well. Celery also likes a soil pH between 5.8 and 6.8. If you're unsure of your soil acidity, have a soil sample tested and amend as needed. Heat is no friend to celery, which prefers cool temperatures between 60 and 70 degrees F. (16-21 C.). Keep celery plants well-watered during the growing season. Without adequate water, stalks become stringy. Provide at least one mid-season application of compost, as celery is a heavy feeder. With proper growing conditions, it's easy to avoid that bitter-tasting, pungent celery.

Other Reasons for Bitter Tasting Stalks

If you've provided all of the right growing conditions and are still asking yourself, “Why does my celery taste bitter?” it may be because you didn't blanch the plants to protect the stalks from the sun. Blanching involves covering the stalks with straw, soil, or rolled up paper cylinders. Blanching promotes healthy celery and encourages the production of chlorophyll. Celery that has been blanched 10 to 14 days prior to harvest will have a sweet and pleasing taste. Without blanching, celery can very quickly become bitter.

Learning how to harvest celery is a worthwhile goal if you've been able to grow this somewhat difficult crop to maturity. Harvesting celery that is the right color and texture and properly bunched speaks to your green thumb abilities.

When to Harvest Celery

The time for picking celery is usually after it has been planted for three to five months and should happen before temperatures soar. Normally, the time to harvest for celery is 85 to 120 days after transplant. Time of planting of the crop will dictate the time to harvest for celery. Harvesting celery should be done before hot temperatures occur outside as this can make the celery woody if not well watered. Celery harvest at the right time is important to prevent pithiness, yellowing leaves, or the plant going to seed or bolting. The leaves need sunlight, but stalks need shade to remain white, sweet, and tender. This is normally done through a process called blanching.

How to Harvest Celery

Picking celery should begin when the lower stalks are at least 6 inches (15 cm.) long, from ground level to the first node. The stalks should still be close together, forming a compact bunch or cone at the proper height for harvesting celery. Upper stalks should reach 18 to 24 inches (46-61 cm.) in height and 3 inches (8 cm.) in diameter when they are ready for harvest. Picking celery can also include the harvest of the leaves for use as a flavoring in soups and stews. A few plants can be left to flower or go to seed, for harvest of celery seeds for use in recipes and the planting of future crops. Harvesting celery is easily done by cutting the stalks below where they are joined together. When picking celery leaves, they are most easily removed by a sharp cut as well.

Simply put, celery isn't the easiest crop to grow in the garden. Even after all the work and time involved with growing celery, bitter celery is one of the most common complaints at harvest time.

Methods for Blanching Celery

When celery has bitter taste, chances are it hasn't been blanched. Blanching celery is often done to prevent bitter celery. Blanched plants lack green color, as the light source of celery is blocked out, which results in a paler color. Blanching celery does, however, give it a sweeter taste and plants are generally more tender. Although some self-blanching varieties are available, many gardeners prefer to blanch celery themselves. There are several methods for blanching celery. All of which are accomplished two to three weeks prior to harvesting.

• Typically, paper or boards are used to block out the light and shade the stalks of celery.
• Blanch plants by gently wrapping the stalks with a brown paper bag and tying these with pantyhose.
• Build up the soil to about a third of the way up and repeat this process each week until reaching the base of its leaves.
• Alternatively, you can place boards on either side of the plant rows or use milk cartons (with tops and bottoms removed) to cover the celery plants.
• Some people also grow celery in trenches, which are gradually filled with soil a few weeks prior to harvesting.

Blanching is a good way to rid the garden of bitter celery. However, it's not considered as nutritious as regular, green celery. Blanching celery is, of course, optional. Bitter celery may not taste that great, but sometimes all you need when celery has bitter taste is a little peanut butter or ranch dressing to give it some additional flavor.

Growing celery (Apium graveolens) is generally considered to be the ultimate vegetable gardening challenge. It has a very long growing season but a very low tolerance for both heat and cold. There isn't much flavor difference between the home grown variety and the store bought variety so most gardeners grow a celery plant purely for the challenge. Read on to find out more about the best way to grow celery in your garden.

Starting Celery Seeds

Because a celery plant has such a long maturity time, unless you live in a location with long growing seasons, you need to start celery seeds indoors at least eight to 10 weeks before the last frost date for your area. Celery seeds are tiny and tricky to plant. Try mixing them with sand and then sprinkle the sand-seed mix over the potting soil. Cover the seeds with just a little bit of soil. Celery seeds like to be planted shallowly. Once the celery seeds have sprouted and are large enough, either thin the seedlings or prick them out to their own pots.

Planting Celery in the Garden

Once the temperatures outside are consistently above 50 F. (10 C.), you can plant your celery into your garden. Remember that celery is very temperature sensitive, so don't plant it out too early or you will kill or weaken the celery plant. Unless you live in a location that is ideal to grow celery plants, plant your celery where it will get six hours of sun, but preferably somewhere that the celery plant will be shaded for the hottest part of the day. Also, make sure that where you will be growing celery has rich soil. Celery needs lots of nutrients to grow well.

Grow Celery in Your Garden

A growing celery plant needs a lot of water. Make sure to keep the soil evenly moist and don't forget to water them. Celery can't tolerate drought of any kind. If the ground isn't kept consistently moist, it will negatively affect the taste of the celery. You'll also need to fertilize regularly to keep up with the nutrient needs of the celery plant.

Blanching Celery

Many gardeners prefer to blanch their celery to make them more tender, but be aware that when blanching celery, you are reducing the amount of vitamins in the celery plant. Blanching celery turns the green part of the plant white. Blanching celery is done one of two ways. The first way is to just slowly build a mound around a growing celery plant. Every few days add a little more dirt and at harvest the celery plant will be blanched. The other method is to cover the lower half of the celery plant with thick brown paper or cardboard a few weeks before you plan to harvest the celery Now that you know how to grow celery, you can give it a try in your own garden. We can't guarantee that you will be able to grow celery successfully, but at least you can say you tried.