The prospect of sweet cherries is tantalizingly close as midsummer arrives. Cherry season usually peaks around this time, although the exact timing depends on your specific location, local weather conditions, and the type of cherry you are growing. If you’re cultivating sweet cherries like 'Bing', 'Rainier' or 'Stella' then a few timely tasks are going to influence the size, sweetness and bulk of your crop. Accomplishing these chores will have a direct impact on how sweet, juicy, and beautifully bird-free your harvest of summer cherries will be.

Fortunately, the work required for cherry tree care in July won’t break your back nor dampen your summer mood. These tasks are simple, fast, and intensely rewarding, as the payoff will be the sweetest, plumpest, and heaviest harvest of summer cherries you’ve ever had. But don’t put off these tasks: they are essential to protect and maximize the sugar and moisture content of your developing fruit.

You don’t want your precious fruits to fall foul of unexpected heat waves or sudden summer downpours. By stepping in with some simple deeds right now, you aren't just protecting this year’s bounty, either. You are also safeguarding the reserves your tree needs to return even stronger next season. So, here’s how to make the most of your July cherries and nourish your tree for future fruit.

Best Cherry Care in July

Taking time for cherry care in July is a win-win for your home orchard. Whether you live in a mild coastal zone or a blazing interior valley, cherry trees are under intense pressure to support heavy fruit loads while fending off seasonal pest surges. These basic care strategies prevent fruit splitting, premature dropping, and bird raids, ensuring your harvest lasts longer and tastes vastly superior across USDA zones 4-9.

These protective measures for cherries in early summer don’t just protect your harvests, they also replenish the tree. July is a great time to boost soil moisture, light penetration, and nutrient availability, to help your tree finish fruiting without depleting energy reserves. It also helps your tree transition into setting fruit buds for next year, protecting against biennial bearing, and keeping trees vigorous and productive for decades.

Before diving into these tasks, ensure your cutting tools are sharp, clean, and sterilized to prevent the introduction of systemic disease. Before adding anything else to the soil around your tree, check moisture levels in the ground using a soil diagnostic tool. The XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon can help you to gauge soil moisture deep within the root zone before you water or add any supplements.

1. Deep, Consistent Watering

Everyone knows that cherry trees need water to grow, thrive, and produce juicy fruit. But how much and how often depends on the growth stage and the weather. Sweet cherries are preparing to fruit and trees need deep, consistent watering. Temperatures are rising as we get to July. It’s easy to overcompensate by dramatically increasing the amount of water you give the tree, or watering twice a day. But this is neither ideal for the tree nor good for your summer cherry harvest. Instead, think deep, consistent watering to stop fruit from splitting.

Deep watering a cherry tree encourages strength and resilience, by encouraging the tree’s roots to dive deeper into the soil. You can deep water with a garden hose or a soaker hose, just as well as with a complex sprinkler system. Focus water around the drip line, not near the trunk (since this can cause disease). Go for a 50ft option such as the RainPoint 50Ft Flat Soaker Hose from Amazon. Try to set up a regular irrigation schedule and stick to it. Overwatering or inconsistent watering can cause cherries to split. Bear in mind that cherry trees in containers will dry out more quickly.

Aim for one deep soaking per week that penetrates 12-18 inches (30-45cm) into the ground, rather than shallow daily sprinkles. For container-grown varieties, check pots daily, as they can dry out entirely in a single hot afternoon, arresting fruit development and turning skin bitter. Use Pro-Mix Premium Moisture Potting Soil Mix from Walmart to help regulate water retention and enhance nutrient uptake.

2. Apply a Thick Mulch

Cherry trees grow best in soil that neither gets waterlogged nor dries out for long periods. Organizing your irrigation is an important step toward making this happen for your tree, but there’s another easy way to lock moisture into the soil beneath the tree and keep that soil cool, and that’s mulching. You may have mulched your trees in early spring, but by July we need to add more. Garden compost works well for cherry trees, but any well-rotted organic matter will do just fine. Try a sprinkling of an organic compost like Charlie's Compost from Amazon to help microbial life.

A properly applied midsummer mulch layer functions as a protective shield, reducing surface evaporation by up to 70%. When applying your organic matter, layer it 3-4 inches (8-10cm) thick, extending all the way out to the tree’s drip line where the active feeder roots reside. Don’t let the mulch touch the bark, though. Keep a clear 6-inch (15cm) ring around the base of the trunk. Burying the root flare traps moisture directly against the wood, inviting collar rot, fungal cankers, and boring insects. For an extra boost to your soil, consider mixing fine wood chips with rich leaf mold to encourage beneficial mycorrhizal networks that enhance nutrient uptake.

3. Deploy Bird Netting

We love to watch garden birds on our backyard feeders, but it’s not so pleasant to watch them chowing down on our ripening cherries. But face it, birds love to eat cherries, so a polite sign is not going to help. The trick is to cover your tree with bird netting before you think you need to (in other words, before the fruit turns red). If your tree is small enough, cover the whole structure. Otherwise, cover individual branches. Keep the netting above the fruits, stretch it taut, and fasten it securely.

For whole trees, try a zip-bag such as Homada Fruit Tree Netting Cover with Drawstring from Amazon for a tangle-resistant mesh that won’t harm wildlife. For targeted cluster protection, use Agfabric Fruit Protection Bags from Home Depot. These are great for wrapping individual high-yielding branches or protecting patio cherry tree crops with ease. For container trees, consider a fruit cage or move the trees into the greenhouse until fruiting is done.

When installing protective netting, pull the netting tight over a framework (like PVC pipes or bamboo stakes) to keep the mesh suspended away from the outermost branches. If the netting rests against the fruit, clever birds will sit on top of the mesh and peck through the holes. If it is taut like a trampoline, birds will fly away safely without getting caught. Look for a mesh size of 20mm or less.

4. Tackle Aphids and Cherry Blackflies

Bugs are obviously annoying, especially when they are crawling on our favorite plants and trees. But biodiversity is important, so don’t make it your goal to take out every cherry blackfly or cherry aphid you spot. Cherry blackfly (Myzus cerasi) is an aphid that sucks sap from the foliage. This insect overwinters on the tree as eggs, and the aphids hatch in summer. Check the undersides of the leaves this month. If they are covered with shiny black aphids, you’ve identified the issue. You may also see leaves that are crumpled and curled. However, the aphids will leave the tree in summer, so if the damage is not severe, it might be better to leave them.

While a minor aphid infestation won't ruin your crop, severe leaf curling can compromise the tree's ability to photosynthesize, reducing the overall sweetness of this year’s fruit. If you must intervene, avoid harsh chemical insecticides that harm native pollinators. Instead, use a firm, targeted blast of water to dislodge colonies, or apply a gentle organic insecticide or insecticidal soap late in the evening. Arber Organic Bio-Insecticide Concentrate from Walmart is an exceptional planet-safe biological treatment that targets sap-suckers. Alternatively, import predator bugs. You can get a box of live ladybugs at garden stores and let them eat the aphids.

5. Trim Gently for Light and Airflow

It’s not a good idea to do a major cherry tree prune while cherries are ripening, for obvious reasons. But after your cherry harvest, it is a good idea to prune in July. It’s useful to prune sweet cherry trees every year to keep them compact. However, it's more important for tart cherries, since they bear their fruit on the ends of the branches. If branches get long and scraggly, they can break under the weight.

If you are gentle and reasonable with your cuts, July trimming can open up the inside of the canopy to airflow and sunlight. Take a good long look at the tree first to determine which branches are causing blockage problems and limit your trimming to these. Using clean shears or pruners, remove the least amount possible to open up the canopy. Use team favorites Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Amazon, or Corona Forged Steel DualCUT Bypass Pruners from Walmart, for razor-sharp cuts that make clean, fast-healing cuts on fruit wood.

Cherry trees are highly vulnerable to fungal diseases like silver leaf and bacterial canker when pruned during cold, wet seasons. So the warm, dry midsummer window is perfect, as the exposed wood heals rapidly. Good pruning basics include removing dead, damaged, or diseased wood, alongside aggressive water sprouts shooting up through the center of the canopy. Opening up the center allows sunlight to reach the lower interior branches, which is beneficial for future ripening and sugar conversion.

Shop Cherry Care Essentials

Caring for your backyard orchard doesn’t have to be a chore. These pro-approved care essentials will streamline tree maintenance and help you give timely checks and support in a way that is kind to trees during their most energetic phase of the year, while also great for your pocket.

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Do you like the sweet, rich flavor of Bing cherries but can't grow traditional cherry trees in your central or southern Florida backyard? Like many deciduous trees, cherries require a chill period during their winter dormancy. This is the number of continuous hours the tree must spend in temperatures lower than 45 degrees F. (7 C.). Without a chill period, deciduous trees don't prosper.

If you live in an area where you can't grow traditional cherry trees, don't despair. There are a few fruiting trees in the Myrtle family which produce cherry-like berries. The Grumichama tree, with its dark purple, sweet tasting fruit is an alternative for the Bing cherry. 

What is Grumichama

Also known as the Brazil cherry, this berry producing tree is native to South America. The Grumichama cherry can be cultivated in other tropical and subtropical climates, including Florida and Hawaii. Grown primarily as a backyard ornamental fruit tree, the Grumichama cherry isn't likely to garner much commercial attention due its smaller fruit size and lower fruit-to-pit ratio. 

The slow growing Grumichama can take four to five years to produce fruit when the tree is started from seeds. Grumichama cherry trees can also be propagated by cuttings or grafting. The tree can reach heights of 25 to 35 feet (8 to 11 m.) but are often pruned to nine to ten feet (about 3 m.) tall or grown as a hedge to facilitate an easier harvest.

Grumichama Plant Info

USDA Hardiness Zones: 9b to 10

Soil pH: Slightly acidic 5.5 to 6.5 

Growth Rate: 1 to 2 feet (31-61 cm.) per year

Bloom Time: April to May in Florida; July to December in Hawaii

Harvest Time: Fruit ripens about 30 days after blooming

Sunlight: Full to partial sun

Growing Grumichama

The Grumichama cherry can be started from seed or purchased online as a young tree. Seeds germinate in about a month. When purchasing young stock acclimate the tree to full sun conditions prior to planting to avoid leaf scorching and reduce transplant shock. 

Plant young Grumichama trees in fertile, loamy acidic soil. These cherry trees prefer full sun but can tolerate light shade. When planting trees dig a broad, shallow hole so the crown of the tree remains at soil line. Seedlings, young trees, and fruiting mature trees need plenty of rain or supplemental water for growth and to prevent fruit drop.

Mature trees can tolerate light frosts. In northern climates a tree may be container grown and moved indoors during the winter. Some growers feel these trees fruit better when exposed to a slight chill period. An attached garage or unheated enclosed porch may provide adequate temperatures for winter storage.

Grumichama cherries ripen very quickly. Gardeners are advised to watch their trees closely for signs of ripening and net the tree if necessary, to protect the harvest from birds. The fruit can be eaten fresh or used for jams, jellies and pies.

Proper harvesting and careful handling ensure that fresh cherries retain their delicious flavor and firm, juicy texture as long as possible. Are you wondering how to store cherries? Here are some tips on storing and handling cherries after harvest. 

How to Handle Harvested Cherries

Once harvested, fresh cherries must be cooled as soon as possible to slow down the ripening process, as the quality will deteriorate quickly. Keep cherries in a shady spot until you can get them into the refrigerator or another cold storage.

Place the cherries in a sturdy plastic bag or container, but don’t wash them yet because the moisture will speed the decaying process. Wait and rinse the cherries with cold water when you’re ready to eat them.

Keep in mind that although the color may change, the quality of cherries doesn’t improve after harvest. Sweet cherries, such as Bing, stay fresh for about two to three weeks in the refrigerator, and sour cherries, such as Montmorency or Early Richmond, last about three to seven days. Both types may retain their quality for several months in commercial cold storage.

Discard cherries soon if they’re soft, mushy, bruised, split, or discolored. Get rid of them immediately if you notice mold where the stem was attached.

You can also freeze cherries, and they’ll last six to eight months. Pit the cherries or leave them whole, then spread them on a cookie sheet, in a single layer. Once the cherries are frozen, place them in a bag or container.

Ideal Temperatures for Post-Harvest Cherry Storage

Sweet cherries should be stored at 30 to 31 F. (approximately -1 C.). Storage for sour cherries should be slightly warmer, about 32 F. (0 C).

Relative humidity for both types of cherries should be between 90 and 95 percent; otherwise, the cherries are likely to dry out.

Cherry rasp leaf virus is a potentially fatal condition in fruit trees. The usual cause for this virus is the plant-feeding dagger nematode. If you have cherry trees, you should learn more about cherry rasp leaf disease. Read on for information about its symptoms and tips for treating this leaf disease.

About Cherry Rasp Leaf Disease

Rasp leaf disease in cherry trees often enters an orchard on plant material. This happens when the material is infected with the virus through contact with the dagger nematode (Xiphenema spp). The cherry rasp leaf virus can also move through an orchard in soil that contains the nematode.

It can also show up on other hosts of the cherry rasp leaf virus, like dandelions and elderberry. Seeds from any infected plants can carry the virus to new locations. This particular leaf disease may be transmitted by grafting as well.

The virus is harmful to your cherry tree and the subsequent cherry harvest. It can reduce the tree’s health and growth as well as your cherry production. It also causes the cherries to grow in a flattened shape.

Cherry Rasp Leaf Symptoms

How do you know if your cherry tree is infected with the cherry rasp virus? The disease has some very distinctive symptoms.

The primary cherry rasp leaf symptoms are called enations. They are raised projections located on the undersides of the cherry leaves, between lateral veins. They look like leafy outgrowths. The raised bumps deform the leaves.

If you see extremely narrow, folded, and distorted leaves, these are symptoms of cherry rasp leaf disease. Often, the low branches are affected first and the disease spreads slowly up the tree.

Cherry Rasp Leaf Control

The best method of control for this virus is prevention. Treating cherry rasp leaf virus in an infected tree is very difficult to do successfully. Instead, you should use cultural controls to protect your cherry trees from becoming infected.

Perhaps the most important step in prevention is to always plant stock that is free of viruses. Controlling the nematodes is also vital.

Once you find that a tree has been infected, you cannot save it. Don’t just cut it down, as it must be removed from the property and disposed of.

Sonata cherry trees, which originated in Canada, produce an abundance of plump, sweet cherries every summer. The attractive cherries are deep mahogany red, and the juicy flesh is also red. The rich, flavorful cherries are great cooked, frozen dried, or eaten fresh. According to Sonata cherry information, this hardy cherry tree is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 7. Interested in growing a Sonata cherry tree? Let’s learn more about caring for Sonata cherries in the landscape.

How to Grow Sonata Cherries

Sonata cherry trees are self-fruiting, so it isn’t necessary to plant a pollinating variety nearby. However, planting another variety of sweet cherries within 50 feet (15 m.) can result in larger harvests.

Sonata cherry trees thrive in rich soil, but they are adaptable to nearly any type of well-drained soil, with the exception of heavy clay or rocky soil. Dig in a generous amount of organic material such as compost, manure, dry grass clippings, or chopped leaves before planting. This is especially important if your soil is nutrient-poor, or if it contains substantial amounts of clay or sand.

Established Sonata cherry trees require very little supplemental irrigation unless the weather is dry. In this case, water deeply, using a drip irrigation system or soaker hose, every seven days to two weeks. Trees planted in sandy soil may need more frequent irrigation.

Fertilize your cherry trees year, beginning when the trees start to produce fruit, usually three to five years after planting. Apply a general-purpose, balanced fertilizer in early spring or later, but never after July, or midsummer. Cherry trees are light feeders, so be careful not to over-fertilize. Too much fertilizer may produce lush, leafy foliage at the expense of fruit.

Prune cherry trees every year in late winter or early spring. Thinning Sonata cherries is beneficial when there are more than 10 tiny cherries per spur. This may seem counterproductive, but thinning reduces branch breakage caused by a too-heavy load and improves fruit quality and size.

Cherry tree harvest is generally in early summer, depending on climate and weather conditions.

Cherry trees are great options for home gardeners interested in trying their hand at fruit. Care is relatively easy, most trees can be trimmed to be smaller or come in dwarf sizes, and there are many varieties from which to choose. One of these is the Lapins cherry tree, a tasty sweet cherry with a lot of ideal traits for backyard growing and harvesting.

What are Lapins Cherries?

The Lapins variety of cherry was developed in British Columbia, Canada at the Pacific Agri-Food Research Centre. Researchers crossed Van and Stella cherry trees to come up with the Lapins cultivar. The aim was to produce a better sweet cherry, something similar to Bing but with important improvements in certain properties.

A Lapins cherry tree produces dark, sweet fruit that is very similar to the popular Bing cherry. The cherries are about an inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. The flesh of the cherries is firm, more so than Bing, and the fruits resist splitting.

Expect to get a harvest from your Lapins cherry tree in mid- to late-summer, usually late June and into August. It will need 800 to 900 chill hours each winter, which is compatible with USDA zones 5 through 9. Best of all for the home gardener with limited space, this is a self-fertile variety. You will not need another cherry tree for pollination and to set fruit.

How to Grow Lapins – Lapins Cherry Information

Lapins cherry care is much like that for other cherry trees. Plant it in soil that drains well, and amend the soil with some compost before putting it in the ground.

Make sure your tree is in a spot that gets full sun and gives it room to grow. You can get a dwarf variety, but the standard Lapins rootstock will grow up to 40 feet (12 meters) tall unless you keep it trimmed to a smaller size.

Water your new cherry tree regularly in the first growing season. For the next and ongoing seasons, you’ll only need to water when rainfall is less than usual.

Pruning cherries is only really needed once a year, in winter or early spring. This will help keep the tree’s shape and size and support good fruit production.

Harvest your Lapins cherries when they are fully ripe and ready to eat. Cherries ripen on the tree, and while they should be firm and deep red, the best way to find out if they’re ready is to eat one. These cherries are delicious when eaten fresh, but they can also be preserved and canned, frozen, or used in baking.

Washington state is a leading producer of one of our favorite fruits, the humble cherry. The economic importance of cherries has led to the constant development of cultivars with more desirable traits like those found in a Benton cherry tree. The fruit is similar to Bing but has several attributes that make it more marketable and grower-friendly. Learn how to grow Benton cherries and enjoy their sweet, complex flavor and ease of care.

Benton Cherry Info

If you are a cherry fanatic, Benton cherries may be the variety for you to grow. The large, bright red fruits ripen a bit earlier than Bing cherries and have several disease resistances that enhance the tree’s health. According to Benton cherry info, the variety was developed at the Washington State University Prosser Research Center.

The Benton cherry tree was bred during sweet cherry trials in Washington state. It is a cross between ‘Stella’ and ‘Beaulieu.’ Stella brought its sweet flavor and self-fertility to the new variety, while Beaulieu lent to its early maturity.

The tree itself is a large plant with upright spreading branches. Leaves are characteristic lance-shaped with slightly notched edges. The fruit’s skin is deep red and the flesh is pinkish red and has a semi-freestone pit. The fruit ripens mid-season but usually a couple of days before Bing.

How to Grow Benton Cherries

United States Department of Agriculture zones 5 to 8 are suitable for growing Benton cherries. Cherry trees prefer a full sun location in loose, loamy soil. Soil should drain well and have a pH of 6.0-7.0.

The tree can grow up to 14 feet tall (4 m.) with a similar spread. Although Benton cherry is self-pollinating, the presence of pollinating partners nearby can increase the crop.

Dig your hole twice as deep and wide as the root mass. Soak bare-root trees for several hours before planting. Spread the roots out and backfill, packing soil around roots. Water in with at least a gallon (4 L.) of water.

Benton Cherry Care

This is a really stoic cherry tree. Not only does it have resistance to rain cracking, but the slightly later flowering period, as compared to Bing, reduces the chances of frost damage.

Water cherry trees deeply but infrequently. Cherries are light feeders and need a low nitrogen fertilizer once per year in spring after the tree is bearing fruit.

Prune the cherry tree annually in early spring to stimulate growth and spur a strong but open canopy.

Watch for insects and combat them instantly. Use organic mulch around the root zone of the tree to reduce weeds and conserve moisture.

Harvest fruits when they are glossy, firm, and bright red. Once established, Benton cherry care is very common sense and the efforts will reap the benefits of sweet, succulent fruit.

Cherry pie, cherry tarts, and even that sundae topped off with a cherry just seem to taste so much better when coming from your own tree, fresh picked and delicious. While there are lots of cherry trees you can grow, some stand out more than others. The Early Robin is one of them. Keep reading to learn more about growing Early Robin cherries.

What are Early Robin Cherries?

Discovered by a Washington orchardist in 1990, Early Robin is a large yellow cherry with a reddish blush. This heart-shaped cherry has a sweet flavor that makes it an ideal choice for fancy desserts, or for snacking by the handful.

Early Robin cherries are marketed as a type of Rainier cherry. They are sometimes known as Early Robin Rainier. When do Early Robin cherries ripen? Rainier cherries ripen in late spring through early summer. Early Robin cherries ripen seven to ten days earlier. They must be planted where early blooms won’t be nipped by frost.

Growing Early Robin Cherries

Early Robin cherry trees need at least one cherry tree of another variety within 50 feet (15 m.) to ensure pollination. Rainier, Chelan, and Bing are good choices.

Ensure Early Robin cherry trees receive about an inch (2.5 cm.) of water every ten days or so, either through rain or irrigation. Don’t overwater, even during drought, as cherry trees don’t do well in waterlogged soil. Water Early Robin cherry trees at the base of the tree, using a soaker hose or a trickling garden hose.

Fertilize Red Robin cherry trees every spring, using a low-nitrogen fertilizer with an NPK ratio such as 5-10-10 or 10-15-15. Once the tree begins to produce fruit, apply fertilizer two or three weeks before blooms appear. Alternatively, feed the cherry tree after harvest. Avoid overfeeding. Too much fertilizer weakens cherry trees and makes them more susceptible to pests.

Prune Early Robin cherry trees every year in late winter. Never prune cherry trees in fall.

Pick Early Robin cherries when the fruit is fully ripe. If you plan to freeze the cherries, harvest the fruit when it’s still firm. You may need to cover the tree with netting to protect the cherries from hungry birds.

Few fruits are more enjoyable to grow than cherries. These tasty little fruits pack a flavorful punch and provide a big harvest. Cherries can be enjoyed fresh, they work well in desserts and savory dishes, and they can be preserved easily to eat all winter. When choosing a tree for your backyard or small orchard, consider all the benefits of a Black Tartarian cherry tree.

What are Black Tartarian Cherries?

Black Tartarian is an old variety of sweet cherry. It originated in Russia and was introduced in England and the U.S. by the late 1700's. The tree was once called the Large Black Heart, which is descriptive of the fruit: deep, dark red, and large.

For a sweet and juicy cherry, Black Tartarian is hard to beat. It’s a popular variety for taste and texture. It’s also popular with home growers because it produces abundantly – pretty, sweet-smelling spring flowers and ripe fruit in early summer.

This variety is also adaptable to a lot of different soil types and tolerates drought better than some others. It’s a fairly easy tree to grow for the home gardener.

How to Grow Black Tartarian Cherries

As with other cherry trees, growing Black Tartarian requires full sun and enough space for it to grow out and up to about 10 and 15 feet (3-4.5 m.), unless you choose a dwarf tree. You will actually need room for two trees, as this variety is not self-pollinating. Any other sweet cherry, like Stella, Bing, or Van, will work as a pollinator. Without an additional tree, your Black Tartarian will not produce fruit.

Nearly any soil type will do for this tree, but it prefers a lighter soil. What is most important is that the tree sits in soil that drains well and will not collect water. Until the new tree has established good roots, water it regularly. After the first year you can reduce watering to only when there is inadequate rain.

Fertilizing isn’t really necessary for your tree until it begins to bear fruit, after four to seven years. At that point, give it an annual dose of low-nitrogen fertilizer in early spring, before blooms appear.

Regular care should also include pruning once a year. The best way to tell when your sweet cherries are ready to harvest is by taste. They should be firm but fully sweet, as they will not ripen off the tree.

What are Sweetheart cherries? These large, bright red cherries are prized for their heart-like shape and firm texture, but mostly for a distinctive, super-sweet, mildly tart flavor. Can you grow sweet cherries? You sure can, as long as you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 7. In fact, Sweetheart cherries are among the easiest cherries to grow in the home garden. Want to learn how to grow sweetheart cherries? Read on!

Sweetheart Cherry Info

Sweetheart cherry trees, which reach heights and widths of 7 to 10 feet (2-3 m.), are highly ornamental year round, with beautiful pink and white blooms against a backdrop of shiny, dark green leaves. The beauty continues with red and orange autumn leaves, followed by bark that adds textural interest throughout the winter. Unlike many cherry trees, Sweetheart cherry trees are self-pollinating, so it isn’t necessary to plant another cherry tree nearby. Sweetheart cherries ripen in summer and continue for several weeks.

How to Grow Sweetheart Cherries

Plant Sweetheart cherry trees in late fall or early spring. Avoid soggy, poorly drained areas, as the trees require a well-drained soil. Ensure the trees receive a minimum of six hours of sunlight per day to promote healthy blooming and fruit development. Provide Sweetheart cherries with about 1 inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week when the trees are young. The trees may need a little more moisture during dry periods, but don’t overwater. Water carefully, as they are prone to powdery mildew. Water at the base of the tree, using a soaker hose or drip irrigation system. Avoid overhead irrigation as the foliage should remain as dry as possible. Mulch Sweetheart cherry trees with about 3 inches (8 cm.) of mulch to prevent moisture evaporation. Mulch will also keep weeds in check and prevent temperature fluctuations that can trigger splitting. Fertilize your cherry trees every spring, about a month before flowering, using a light application of a low-nitrogen fertilizer. Once the trees mature and begin to bear fruit, fertilize annually after cherries are harvested. Prune cherry trees in late winter. Remove dead or damaged growth and branches that cross or rub other branches. Thin the center of the tree to improve air circulation. Regular pruning will also help prevent powdery mildew and other fungal diseases. Pull suckers from the base of the tree throughout the season. Unless they are removed, suckers will promote powdery mildew, and will rob the tree of moisture and nutrients.

Given the reputation of the Rainier sweet cherry as the most delicious yellow cherry in the world, you might think that this cherry tree would be difficult to grow. Nothing could be farther from the truth. Despite the many spectacular qualities, care of Rainier cherry trees is relatively easy. Read on for tips on how to grow Rainier cherries.

About Rainier Cherry Trees

Rainier cherries resulted from a cross between the Bing and Van varieties. The trees are gorgeous in spring with showy pink-white blooms filling the garden with a lovely fragrance. This is followed by the next act: a large crop of outstanding cherries. For the grand finale in autumn, expect a fiery fall foliage display. The trees bear fruit early. Those with a Rainier in the backyard will be picking Rainier cherries in May or June, while other cherry trees are nowhere near ripe. Rainier sweet cherry fruit are yellow on the outside with a scarlet blush. The inner flesh is sweet and creamy white, giving it the nickname “white cherry.” Most gardeners agree that this is the best yellow cherry, and some insist that Rainier is the best cherry of any color. The large, yellow fruit is both bud hardy and crack resistant, giving it another edge over the competition. The cherries also tend to attract less birds than red cherries, probably due to the yellow coloring. The cherries store well too. They are wonderfully sweet right off the tree, but they also work well for baking, canning, and freezing.

How to Grow Rainier Cherries

If you are wondering how to grow Rainier cherries, the first step is to make sure that you live in an appropriate hardiness zone. Rainier cherry trees thrive in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 8. Plant the tree in loamy soil in a full sun location. Care of Rainier cherry trees is not harder than that of other cherry varieties, and includes irrigation, pest control, and occasional use of organic fertilizer. The trees grow to 35 feet (11 m.) tall, but can easily be kept smaller by pruning. This makes picking Rainier cherries easier and gives you the chance to remove dead and damaged wood. The tree is usually a heavy bearer, but it needs a pollinator. Black Tartarian, Sam, or Stella varieties work well and help keep those delicious cherries coming. Remember though, the tree takes some three to five years to fruit.

Cristalina cherry trees bare a dark red, glossy, heart-shaped cherry that goes by the name ‘Sumnue’ in the European Union. It is a hybrid of Van and Star cherries. Interested in growing Cristalina cherries? Read on to learn how to grow Cristalina cherry and about Cristalina cherry care.

About Growing Cristalina Cherries

Cristalina cherry trees were crossbred by Ken Lapins of the Canadian Summerland research station in 1967 and released by Frank Kappell in 1997. The registration rights for Cristalina cherry trees are valid until 2029. That means in order to propagate them, they must be obtained from McGrath Nurseries Ltd. in New Zealand or a licensed nursery that has obtained the rights of purchase. Cristalina cherries mature five to eight days before Bing cherries with a similar dark red-black appearance. They are firm, sweet cherries that are suitable for picking stemless. They are more split resistant than Santina cherries. These cherries are quite productive, and the tree is lovely with wide spreading branches.

How to Grow Cristalina Cherry

Before planting Cristalina cherry trees, know that they need a pollinizer such as Bing, Rainier, or Skeena. Also, sweet cherries thrive in USDA zones 5 and warmer. Next, select a location for the cherry tree. Sweet cherries bloom earlier than sour cherries and, as such, are more susceptible to frost. Select an area of high ground rather than low, which tends to frost. Cherry trees are susceptible to root rot, so be sure that the soil is well-draining as well as fertile. Choose an area of the garden that has at least eight hours of sun per day. Plant bare root cherry trees in the early spring as soon as the ground can be worked. Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the root ball and deep enough so the graft is 2 inches (5 cm.) above the soil. When planting the pollinizers, plant the trees as far apart as their mature height.

Cristalina Cherry Care

Caring for Cristalina cherry trees does require some effort on your part but is well worth it. It is a good idea to mulch around the tree in a 4 foot (1 m). wide circle to help retard weeds and retain moisture; just be sure to keep the mulch 6 inches (15 cm.) away from the trunk of the tree. Young trees should be pruned to foster scaffold branches. Thereafter, prune out any dead, diseased, or broken branches at any time they are spotted and, once a year, remove any water sprouts on the main branches and root suckers growing around the trunk. Fertilize the tree in the spring with organic compost as needed depending on a soil test.

There are two main types of cherries in commercial production – sweet and sour. Of these, the sweet variety are the juicy, sticky finger type, and Bing is one of the most popular in the group. In the Pacific Northwest, the largest supplier of cherries in the U.S., growing Bing cherries has become a bankable endeavor, as it is the most widespread commercially available cultivar. If you have or are going to acquire one of these tasty fruit trees, continue reading for tips on Bing cherry care.

About Bing Cherry Trees

Deeply red, heart-shaped fruits with a taste of summer and the promise of pie. I'm talking about Bing cherries, of course. The variety was first introduced in 1875 in Salem, Oregon and has become one of the most economically important cherries. Bing cherry trees thrive in temperate regions and bear four to seven years from planting. Learn how to care for a Bing cherry and you could be enjoying backyard fruit in just a few years. These cherry trees are hardy into USDA zones 5 to 8. The tree can get 35 feet (11 m.) tall, but if you want a dwarf variety, these only grow 15 feet (5 m.) tall. The plant has a medium growth rate and produces a rounded canopy with smooth, reddish bark marked with horizontal corky stripes on the trunk. The leaves are dark green and up to 6 inches (15 cm.) long with serrated edges. The tree needs another sweet cherry as a pollinating partner and has a chilling requirement of at least 700. It blooms in early spring with a mass of perfumed white flowers. Fruits arrive around July.

How to Care for a Bing Cherry

Bing cherry trees need a full day of sunlight for best flower and fruit production. They also require well-draining soil that is a touch on the sandy side. After planting, keep the young tree moist, as cherries are not drought tolerant. Remove competitive weed pests and apply mulch around the root zone. An important part of Bing cherry care that helps form an open shape and sturdy branches is pruning. Prune your cherry tree in late winter. This will spur the growth of new fruiting wood. Feed in spring until the tree starts to fruit. Bearing cherry trees are only harvested after the season. Black knot and bacterial canker are two common diseases of cherry. Remove any infected plant material as soon as lesions are observed. Use appropriate pesticides and sticky traps as needed during the season.

Harvesting Bing Cherries

If you want to protect all those sweet, finger-licking cherries, a bird net is your best friend. They are easy to use and prevent much of the pirating of your fruit. Harvesting Bing cherries may take up to a week since the individual fruits sweeten and ripen at just slightly different times. The ones to pick are deeply, uniformly red. Cherries will not ripen once off the tree, so if you have any doubts, taste a couple to make sure they are sweet enough. Take the stem with the fruit if you plan on using the fruit later. Store cherries at 32 degrees F. (0 C.) for up to 10 days. Perforated plastic bags will keep them freshest. If you have a bumper crop and can't eat them in time, try freezing the fruit. Wash, de-stem, and place cherries in a single layer on a cookie sheet in the freezer. Once frozen, transfer them to plastic bags and store in the freezer.

Montmorency tart cherries are classics. This variety is used to make dried cherries and is perfect for pies and jams. Dark, sweet cherries are great for fresh eating, but if you want to bake and preserve, you need something a little tart.

Montmorency Cherry Information

Montmorency is an old variety of tart cherry, dating back hundreds of years in France. It is also the most widely grown tart cherry for commercial uses, so chances are if you have ever had a product with tart cherries in it, you’ve had a Montmorency. Montmorency cherry trees are hardy in zones 4 through 7 and need about 700 chill hours in the winter months. You can find Montmorency trees on standard and dwarf rootstocks, and they all grow in a pleasing oval shape. Abundant late spring flowers are followed by cherries that ripen and are ready to be harvested around late June. The best uses for Montmorency cherries are preserves and pies. The tart flavor, with just a little sweetness, lends a unique flavor to desserts and jams. You can always add more sugar, but the best recipes have a great balance between the cherry’s natural tartness and added sweetness.

Growing Montmorency Cherries

Cherry trees need full sun and room to grow without being crowded. Loamy to sandy soil is best and should drain well. These trees can thrive in soil that is not very rich or fertile. Your Montmorency cherry tree will be able to tolerate some drought, but it’s a good idea to water it regularly at least for the first growing season so that roots can become established. Montmorency is a self-fertile variety, which means you can grow it without other cherry varieties in the area for pollination. However, you will get more fruit if you include another pollinator in your yard. Maintenance of your cherry tree should include yearly pruning during the dormant season. This will help you maintain a good shape for the tree, and it will promote good fruit production and air flow for disease prevention. This is the most popular cherry in America, and for good reason, so consider a Montmorency if you are looking for a new fruit tree for your home orchard or a dwarf variety for your small yard.

Cherries rule in summer, and it’s hard to find any that are sweeter or present more beautifully than those growing on Stella cherry trees. The tree offers several gorgeous displays, the first in spring when the frothy blossoms open, the second when the heart-shaped Stella sweet cherry fruit appears, ruby and ripe. If you’d like more Stella cherry information about this great fruit tree, read on. We’ll also provide tips on how to grow Stella cherries.

Stella Cherry Information

If you like cherries, you’ll love Stella sweet cherry fruit. The cherries are exceptionally firm and sweet. They taste wonderful infused with summer sun from your backyard. They are also large and bright red, just like cherries in your dreams. And Stella cherry trees also offer some extra advantages over other popular fruit trees. First, the tree’s showy white blossoms are among the first to appear in spring. They really dress up your backyard and last a long time. And it’s entirely possible to start growing Stella cherries in a backyard, even a small one. The standard trees only grow to 20 feet (6 m.) tall, with a 12- to 15-foot (3.5 to 5 m.) spread.

How to Grow Stella Cherries

Those interested in learning how to grow Stella cherries should start with the hardiness zone. Like many other fruit trees, Stella grows best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8. Growing Stella cherries is particularly easy since they are self-fruitful. That means that, unlike so many varieties, they do not need a second compatible tree to successfully pollinate the fruit. On the other hand, if you have another tree that isn’t fruitful, Stella cherry trees can pollinate them. Assuming you’re living in an appropriate hardiness zone, you’ll do best growing the cherries in a sunny location. Full sun is the preferred site and makes for the most fruit. What about soil? These trees need well-draining, loamy soil with a pH between 6 and 7. What else do you need to set up your orchard to start cranking out a harvest of Stella sweet cherry fruit every summer? Patience. The trees can take 4 to 7 years to fruit.

Van cherries are attractive, cold-hardy trees with shiny foliage and clusters of white, springtime blooms followed by delicious, reddish black cherries in midsummer. The beauty continues in autumn when the leaves turn a shade of brilliant yellow. Interested in growing Van cherries? It isn’t difficult, but the cherries require cool winters in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 8. Read on and for more information.

Van Cherry Uses

Van cherries are firm, sweet, and juicy. Although they’re delicious eaten fresh, they can also be incorporated into cooked dishes and a variety of desserts, including pies and sorbets. The cherries are often used in jams, jellies, and sauces and can be preserved by freezing or drying. Van cherries pair well with a number of sweet and savory foods, including smoked meats, cheese, pork, poultry, or leafy greens.

Growing Van Cherries

Plant the cherry trees in late fall or early spring. Van cherries require well-drained soil and full sunlight. Allow at least 15 to 18 feet (3-4 m.) between each tree. Van cherry trees require a pollinator nearby. Recommended varieties include Stella, Rainier, Lapins, and Bing. However, any sweet cherry will work, with the exception of Regina. Water cherry trees deeply every 10 days or so if conditions are dry. Otherwise, normal rainfall is usually sufficient. Be careful not to overwater. Mulch Van cherry trees with about 3 inches (8 cm.) of compost, bark, or other organic material to prevent moisture evaporation. Mulch will also keep weeds in check and prevent temperature fluctuations that can trigger splitting fruit. As a general rule, Van cherry trees need no fertilizer until they begin bearing fruit. At that point, fertilize in early spring using a low-nitrogen fertilizer. Never fertilize after July. Prune cherry trees in late winter. Remove dead or damaged growth and branches that cross or rub other branches. Thin the center of the tree to improve air circulation. Regular pruning will also help prevent powdery mildew and other fungal diseases. Pull suckers from the base of the tree throughout the season. Otherwise, suckers, like weeds, will rob the tree of moisture and nutrients.

Harvesting Van Cherries

In proper growing conditions, Van cherry trees begin producing fruit in four to seven years. Harvest when the cherries are sweet, firm, and a deep red – mid-June in most climates.

Few things beat the sugary, rich taste of a dark, sweet cherry. Caring for and maintaining a cherry tree is not too difficult, and you can even get most varieties in dwarf form. Growing Ulster cherries is a great option if you want an abundant harvest of sweet fruits.

Ulster Cherry Information

Ulster sweet cherries are similar to the popular Bing variety. They are dark, deep red in color and have a very sweet flavor. The variety was created as a cross between Schmidt and Lambert cherries. These cherries are perfect for fresh eating and snacking but also for making wine and juice. The Ulster variety was designed to produce an abundant amount of large, sweet cherries, like Bing, but to be more crack resistant. Cherries tend to crack when they get wet during ripening, but Ulster has good resistance to this phenomenon. It also has decent resistance to drought, diseases, and pests.

Growing and Care of Ulster Cherries

Ulster cherry trees grow well in zones 5 through 7 and don’t tolerate heat very well. They need a spot with full sun, at least six hours per day. The soil should be well-drained, as cherry trees do not do well with any standing water or soil that is too moist. Ulster will need another sweet cherry tree for pollination purposes. Good choices are Rainier or Royalton. Cherry trees are relatively easy to grow and maintain. With the right conditions, your tree will need yearly pruning in the dormant season and regular watering during the first growing season and then only through very dry periods of weather. Watch for signs of pest or disease, but Ulster cherries have good overall resistance. If your space is limited, choose an Ulster on dwarf rootstock. It will only grow 8 to 10 feet (2-3 m.) tall and about 10 feet (3 m.) across. Ulster ripens midseason. Harvest and eat as soon as possible. To preserve extra cherries, freezing is a good choice.

Most of us know a Bing cherry when we see it, but the cherry Chelan variety is actually ripe and ready almost two weeks earlier and has a similar appearance and just as much flavor. What are Chelan cherries? They are the earliest cherry out of Washington, produce less double fruit, and resist cracking. Continue reading for more Chelan cherry tree info, including how to grow these delicious fruits.

Chelan Cherry Tree Info

It is always hard to wait for cherry season. Those juicy, sweet fruits burst with flavor either fresh or in pies and other preparations. Cherries are big business and much money has been expended to find resistant varieties, improve characteristics, and even hasten the harvest season. The cherry Chelan variety is the result of trials through Washington State University at the Prosser Research and Extension Center. The Chelan cherry produces deep, mahogany red, heart-shaped fruits, much like Bing. The medium sized fruit is sweet and runs between 16 and 18% sugar. Unlike Bing, this cherry tree resists heat induced double spur formation (buttoning) and rain caused fruit cracking. It is a prolific bloomer and often needs management to reduce fruit load. This variety is hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zone 5. The tree is very vigorous, has an upright form, and is resistant to several important diseases of cherry.

Growing Chelan Cherries

In the 1990s, many of the Chelan cherry trees were infected with prune dwarf virus. Modern trees are grafted on certified disease-free wood. Mazzard is the current rootstock used for Chelan. Like all cherries, Chelan needs a pollinating partner. Ideal selections are Index, Rainier, Lapins, Sweetheart, and Bing, but Tieton is incompatible. Young trees benefit from staking and training to enhance the form and develop a strong scaffold of branches. Select a site in full sun with well-draining soil and protection from frost pockets and hard winds. Prior to planting, acclimate the plant for a week in a shady spot. Water the plant consistently during this time. Dig a hole twice as deep and wide as the roots. Make sure all air pockets are out of the soil around the root mass. Water the tree in well.

Chelan Cherry Tree Care

Once trees are 4 to 5 years of age and begin bearing, fertilize annually in spring with a 5-10-10. Cherry trees are low nutrient users but do need consistent water. Most pesticides are applied during the growing season; however, horticultural oils for overwintering insects and larvae should be applied in the dormant season through the growing season. Disease preventative sprays are generally applied at bud break. With annual light pruning, good irrigation, light food, and on the spot pest and disease management, Chelan cherries will be in your sights in no time.

If you’re looking for a tasty cherry that is very hardy and grows in a shrub form, look no further than the Romeo cherry tree. More of a shrub than a tree, this dwarf variety produces fruit and spring flowers abundantly, grows in norther regions of the U.S., and resists many diseases.

What are Romeo Cherries?

Romeo is a newer variety of cherry that was developed at the University of Saskatchewan in Canada. It belongs to a group of cherry varieties developed there that are often called prairie cherries. They were all designed to be hardy, resist diseases, grow small, and produce a lot of fruit. The Romeo variety produces dark red, juicy cherries that are more tart than sweet but have a delicious flavor. The juiciness makes them great for pressing into juice, but you can also eat these cherries fresh and bake with them. Romeo grows like a shrub and only to 6 or 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 m.) in height. It is hardy through zone 2, which means it can be grown even in the coldest parts of the 48 states and even in many parts of Alaska.

How to Grow Romeo Cherries

Grow your Romeo cherry tree in a spot with full sun and in soil that drains well and is slightly acidic. Cherries prefer to have moist soil but not standing water, so they will need regular watering during the growing season, especially in the first two to three years. Take special care to water the tree during dry spells in the summer. Prune during the winter or early spring before new growth appears to keep a neat and tidy shape and to ensure good air flow between branches. Your Romeo cherry is self-pollinating, which means it will set fruit without having another cherry variety nearby to pollinate it. However, having that additional variety will improve pollination and result in more fruit. Harvest Romeo cherry fruits when they are ripe or just before ripening. They should be ready around the end of August or early in September. Other varieties of prairie cherry, like Carmine Jewel, are ready as much as a month earlier, so if you plant more than one type, you can get a more continuous harvest.

What are Regina cherries? These luscious cherry trees, introduced from Germany in 1998, produce fruits having a sweet-tart flavor and an attractive, bright red color. The sweetness of Regina cherries is compounded if the fruit is harvested when the cherries are a fully ripe shade of deep purple. Growing Regina cherries is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 7. Read on to learn how to grow Regina cherry trees.

Growing Regina Cherries

The best time for planting Regina cherries is generally late fall or early spring. Select a planting spot where the tree is exposed to at least six hours of daily sunlight. Otherwise, blooming may be limited, or may not occur at all. Like all cherry trees, Regina cherry should be planted in soil that is moist but well-drained. Avoid soggy areas or spots where water puddles or drains slowly after a rainfall. Regina cherry trees need at least two or three pollination partners nearby, and at least one should bloom about the same time. Good candidates include:

• Celeste
• Amber Heart
• Stardust
• Sunburst
• Morello
• Sweetheart

Regina Cherry Tree Care

Mulch Regina cherry trees generously to prevent moisture evaporation and keep weeds in check. Mulch also moderates soil temperature, thus preventing temperature fluctuations that can cause cherry fruit split. Provide Regina cherry trees with about an inch (2.5 cm.) of water every couple of weeks. Soak the tree deeply by letting a soaker or garden hose trickle slowly at the base of the tree. Avoid overwatering. Too little water is always better than too much, as too much moisture can drown the roots. Fertilize Regina cherry trees lightly every spring, using a low-nitrogen fertilizer, until the tree is mature enough to bear fruit. At that point, fertilize every year after Regina cherry harvesting is complete. Prune cherry trees in late winter. Remove dead or damaged branches, as well as those that rub or cross other branches. Thin the middle of the tree to improve access to air and light. Remove suckers as they appear by pulling them straight out of the ground. Otherwise, suckers rob the tree of moisture and nutrients. Control weeds for the same reason. Regina cherry harvesting generally takes place in late June. The cherries store well for about five weeks.

With a name like Coral Champagne cherries, the fruit already has a leg up in crowd appeal. These cherry trees bear large, sweet fruit heavily and consistently, so it’s not surprising that they are very popular. If you are ready for a new cherry tree in your orchard, you’ll be interested in additional Coral Champagne cherry information. Read on for tips on how to grow Coral Champagne trees in the landscape.

Coral Champagne Cherry Information

Nobody quite knows the exact origin of Coral Champagne cherries. The tree may have been a result of a cross between two selections called Coral and Champagne in UC’s Wolfskill Experimental Orchard. But that is far from certain. What we do know is that the variety has come into its own in the last decade, paired with rootstocks Mazzard and Colt. The cherry ‘Coral Champagne’ variety has gone from being relatively unknown to becoming among the most widely planted varieties in California. The fruit of Coral Champagne cherry trees is exceptionally attractive, with shiny dark flesh and a deep coral exterior. The cherries are sweet, low-acid, firm and large, and rank in the top three varieties of cherries exported from California. In addition to being good for commercial production, the trees are great for home orchards. They are small and compact, making the Coral Champagne cherries easy to pick for kids and adults too.

How to Grow Coral Champagne

If you are wondering how to grow Coral Champagne cherry trees, you may be happy to know that this variety of cherry requires less chill hours than Bing. For cherries, like Coral Champagne, only 400 chill hours are required. Coral Champagne trees thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 8. Like other cherry trees, this variety requires a sunny location and well-drained soil. If you are growing cherry Coral Champagne, you’ll need a second cherry variety nearby as a pollinizer. Either Bing or Brooks works well. The fruit of the Coral Champagne cherry trees ripens in mid-season, toward the end of May.

Each year we look forward to the beautiful, fragrant cherry blossoms which seem to scream, “spring has finally come!” However, if the previous year was extremely dry or drought-like, we may find our spring cherry blossom display lacking. Likewise, an extremely wet growing season can also cause significant problems with cherry trees. Cherry trees can be very particular about their watering needs; too much or too little water can have drastic effects on the tree. Continue reading to learn how to water a cherry tree.

About Cherry Tree Irrigation

Cherry trees grow wild throughout much of the United States. In the wild, they easily establish in sandy-loam or even rocky soils but struggle in heavy clay soils. This is true for the home garden and orchards as well. Cherry trees require excellent draining soil to grow, blossom, and fruit properly. If soil is too dry or cherry trees experience drought stress, leaves can curl, wilt, and drop. Drought stress can also cause cherry trees to produce less blossoms and fruit or lead to stunted tree growth. On the other hand, waterlogged soils or over-irrigation can lead to all sorts of nasty fungal diseases and cankers. Too much water can also suffocate cherry tree roots, causing stunted trees that don’t bloom or set fruit and can ultimately lead to plant death. More cherry trees die from too much water than too little. That’s why learning more about cherry tree watering is so important.

Tips for Watering Cherry Trees

When planting a new cherry tree, it is important to understand cherry water needs to get the tree off to a good start. Prepare the site with soil amendments to ensure the soil drains well but will not be too dry. After planting, watering cherry trees properly their first year is extremely important. They should be watered the first week every other day, deeply; the second week they can be watered deeply two to three times; and after the second week, water cherry trees thoroughly once a week for the rest of the first season. Adjust watering as needed in times of drought or heavy rainfall. Keeping weeds pulled around the base of cherry trees will help ensure that the roots get the water, not the weeds. Putting mulch, like wood chips, around the cherry tree root zone will also help retain soil moisture. Established cherry trees rarely need to be watered. In your region, if you receive at least an inch (2.5 cm.) of rain every ten days, your cherry trees should be receiving adequate water. However, in times of drought, it is important to provide them with some extra water. The best way to do this is to place the hose end directly on the soil above the root zone, then let the water run at a slow trickle or light stream for about 20 minutes. Make sure all the soil around the root zone is thoroughly wet. You can also use a soaker hose. The slow stream of water gives the roots time to soak up the water and prevents wasted water from runoff. If drought persists, repeat this process every seven to ten days.

Cherries fall into two categories: sweet cherries and sour or acidic cherries. While some people enjoy eating acidic cherries fresh from the tree, the fruit is more often used for jams, jellies and pies. English Morello cherries are sour cherries, ideal for cooking, jams and even making liquors. Read on for more information about English Morello sour cherries, including tips on growing these cherry trees.

Cherry Morello Information

English Morello cherries are the most popular cooking cherries in the UK, where they have been grown for over four centuries. English Morello cherry trees also grow well in the United States.

These cherry trees grow to about 20 feet (6.5 m.) tall, but you can keep them pruned to a considerably shorter height if you prefer. They are highly ornamental, with showy blossoms that remain on the tree for an exceptionally long period of time.

They are also self-fruitful, which means that the trees do not require another species nearby to produce fruit. On the other hand, English Morello trees can serve as pollinators for other trees.

English Morello sour cherries are very dark red and can even border on black. They are smaller than typical sweet cherries, but each tree is productive and produces a large amount of fruit. The juice of the cherries is also dark red.

The trees were introduced to this country in the mid-1800s. They are small with rounded canopies. The branches droop, making it easy to harvest English Morello cherries.

Growing Morello Cherries

You can start growing Morello cherries in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9. The trees are small enough that you can include two in a small garden, or else build a flowering hedge with them.

If you are considering growing these cherries, keep in mind that they ripen very late in cherry season. You may still be harvesting cherry Morello fruit in the end of June or even July, depending on where you live. Expect the picking period to last about a week.

Plant cherries Morello in rich, well-draining soil. You may want to offer the trees fertilizer since English Morello trees need more nitrogen than sweet cherry trees. You may also need to irrigate more often than with sweet cherry trees.

Mother Nature’s paintbrush has been used in ways we haven’t even imagined. We all have a common familiarity with white cauliflower, orange carrots, red raspberries, yellow corn, and red cherries due to their prevalence in our local supermarkets and farm stands. Nature’s color palette is far more diverse than that though. For instance, did you know that there are orange cauliflower, purple carrots, yellow raspberries, blue corn, and yellow cherries? I don’t know about you, but that makes me feel like I’ve been living a very sheltered existence. For starters, what are yellow cherries? I did not know that there were cherries that are yellow, and now I want to know more about yellow cherry varieties.

What are Yellow Cherries?

Not all cherries are red. As stated earlier, there are cherries that are yellow. In fact, there are several different yellow cherry varieties in existence. Please keep in mind that the term “yellow” references the cherry flesh more than the skin. Most of the cherries categorized as yellow actually have a predominant red blush or tint to their skin with flesh that is characteristically yellow, white, or creamy. Most yellow cherry varieties are hardy to USDA zones 5 through 7.

Popular Yellow Cherry Varieties

Rainier sweet cherry: USDA zone 5 to 8. Skin is yellow with partial to full red or pink blush and creamy yellow flesh. Early mid-season harvest. This cherry variety came to fruition in 1952 in Prosser, WA by crossing two red cherry varieties, Bing and Van. Named after Washington State’s largest mountain, Mt. Rainier, you can celebrate this sweet cherry’s goodness every July 11th for National Rainier Cherry Day. Emperor Francis sweet cherry: USDA zone 5 to 7. This is a yellow cherry with a red blush and a white or yellow flesh. Mid-season harvest. It was introduced to the U.S. in the early 1900's and is considered to be one of the founding clones (major genetic contributor) of sweet cherry. White Gold sweet cherry: An Emperor Francis x Stella cross hardy in USDA zones 5 to 7. This white fleshed cherry has yellow skin with a red blush to it. Mid-season harvest. Introduced by Cornell University fruit breeders in Geneva, NY in 2001. Royal Ann sweet cherry: USDA zone 5 to 7. Originally known as Napoleon, it was later dubbed “Royal Ann” in 1847 by Henderson Lewelling, who lost the original Napoleon name tag on the cherry seedlings he was transporting on the Oregon Trail. This is a yellow skinned type with a red blush and creamy yellow flesh. Mid-season harvest. Some other varieties with yellow cherry fruit include the Canadian varieties Vega sweet cherry and Stardust sweet cherry.

Tips for Growing Yellow Cherry Trees

Growing cherry trees with yellow cherry fruit is no different than those with red cherry fruit. Here are some tips for growing yellow cherry trees: Research the variety you select. Discern whether your chosen tree is self-pollinating or self-sterile. If it is the latter, you will need more than one tree for pollination. Determine the proper spacing for your chosen cherry tree. Late fall is most ideal for a cherry tree planting. Plant your tree in a sunny location where the soil is well-draining and fertile. Know when and how to fertilize your cherry tree. Knowing how much to water a newly planted cherry tree is important too, as is when and how to prune your cherry tree so your trees produce better and more yellow cherry fruit. Sweet and sour cherry tree varieties take three to five years to become fruit bearing. Once they do, however, be sure to have netting in place to protect your crop. Birds love cherries too!

If you’re looking for a new, dark, sweet cherry to grow in your backyard orchard, look no further than kordia cherries, also known as Attika. Attika cherry trees produce abundant, long, heart-shaped dark cherries with a strong, sweet flavor. Care for these trees is much like other cherries and is not difficult for most home gardeners.

What are Attika Cherries?

This is a mid to late season cherry that came to the U.S. from the Czech Republic. Its exact origins and parentage are unknown, but it is a favorite for sweet cherries that are large and durable in storage and transport. Bing cherries are the benchmark for harvest times, and Attika falls later in the season. It can be harvested about one or even two weeks after Bing. Kordia cherries are known to resist rain-crack and damage when being transported or harvested. Attika cherry trees are technically self-fertile, but they benefit from having another variety nearby for pollination. This will result in more fruit.

Growing Attika Cherries

Attika cherries can be grown in zones 5 through 7. They require full sun and soil that is fertile and well-drained. Amend your soil with compost if necessary before planting. Set dwarf trees about 8 to 14 feet (2-4 m.) apart and larger trees up to 18 feet (5.5 m.) apart. While your tree establishes roots, water it regularly during the growing season. After year one, it should be well established. Once your tree is established, Attika cherry care is pretty simple and mostly involves pruning and watering only as needed. If you don’t get one inch (2.5 cm.) of rainfall per week during the growing season, water your tree and give the roots a good soaking. Prune during the dormant season to stimulate new growth and keep a good shape. Cherry trees should be pruned to grow a central leader and fruit should be thinned to promote strong production of healthy cherries. Harvest when the cherries are fully ripe; they develop more sugar in the last couple of days of ripening, so resist the urge to pick early. Harvest time for sweet cherries like Attika is typically in June or July, depending on your location.

It is a great pleasure to grow and pick your own juicy, sweet cherries from your backyard garden or small orchard. But to grow fruit successfully, there are many factors to consider. The chill hours for cherry trees is one of those, and if your cherry doesn’t get enough cold days during the winter, you may not get much fruit.

Chilling Time for Fruit Trees

Fruit plants, and nut trees as well, need a certain amount of time spend dormant in temperatures from about 32 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit (0 to 4.5 Celsius) in order to develop flowers and fruit in the spring, summer, and fall. Chill time is measured in hours, and some fruits don’t need much. For instance, strawberries require just 200 hours, and this is why they can grow in warmer climates. Some need a lot of hours, though, and will only grow in colder climates as a result. Cherry chill hours are up there with the higher numbers, so to get fruit you can’t grow these trees in warm zones unless you choose the right cultivar.

Chilling Requirements for Cherry Trees

Cherries are adapted to colder climates, so they won’t break out of dormancy until a sufficient amount of time with cold temperatures has passed. There is variation in chilling hours for different types of trees and also between cultivars of one type of fruit, like cherries. Cherry cold requirements are generally between 800 and 1,200 hours. Zones 4-7 are generally safe bets for getting adequate chill hours for cherry trees. Knowing how many chill hours for cherries is necessary will depend on the cultivar, but for most types, in order to get the maximum yield of flowers and fruits, at least 1,000 hours is important. Some cultivars of cherry that can get by on fewer chill hours, known as low-chill cherries, include ‘Stella,’ ‘Lapin,’ ‘Royal Rainier,’ and ‘Royal Hazel,’ which need 500 or fewer hours. The latter does require a separate cultivar for pollinating, though. There are also some varieties that will give you a decent fruit yield with just 300 chill hours. These include ‘Royal Lee’ and ‘Minnie Royal.’ Both require pollinators but, because they have similar chill requirements, they can be planted together for pollination.

Cherry trees are a wonderful addition to home orchards, as well as landscape plantings. Known worldwide for their stunning spring blooms, cherry trees reward growers with a profusion of delicious fruit. Whether used in baking, canning, or eaten fresh, ripe cherries are sure to be a summertime favorite. Although generally easy to grow, various issues such as fruit drop, may leave growers wondering, “Why are cherries dropping from my tree?”

Reasons Why Cherries are Falling Off Tree

Why are cherries dropping? Fruit trees drop immature fruit for a variety of different reasons, and cherry trees are no exception. While the loss of immature and developing fruits may be alarming to gardeners, minimal early season fruit drop is natural and does not signal that there is a serious issue with the tree.

Pollination

One of the most common causes of a cherry tree dropping fruit results from pollination. Cherry trees can be divided into two categories: self-fruitful and self-unfruitful. As the name implies, trees that are self-fruitful (or self-fertile) do not require additional cherry tree plantings in order to secure a crop of cherries. Self-unfruitful plants will need an additional “pollinator” tree in order to produce fruits. Without the planting of additional cherry trees, self-unfruitful plants will not receive proper pollination – most often achieved by a strong honeybee population. Cultivars of self-fruitful cherry trees that will help prevent cherry fruit drop include:

• ‘Governor Wood’ cherry
• ‘Kansas Sweet’ cherry
• ‘Lapins’ cherry
• ‘Montmorency’ cherry
• ‘Skeena’ cherry
• ‘Stella’ cherry

Cherry fruit drop most often occurs in early summer, around the same time that blooms begin to fade. Since blooms that have not been pollinated are unable to develop into mature fruits, the trees will begin to shed any unviable growth. The process of dropping these fruits will allow for the trees to dedicate more energy to the growth of healthy, pollinated cherries.

Other Causes of Cherry Drop Problems

In addition to dropping unpollinated fruit, cherry trees may also drop fruits that cannot be supported by the plant. Factors such as available water, fertilization, and overall health of the tree contribute to the size of the cherry harvest. As a means of survival, the energy of the cherry tree is devoted to producing the largest possible number of fruits with viable seeds. Therefore, healthy and stress-free trees are able to produce abundant harvests. Though the initial fruit drop may be disappointing, the actual percentage of dropped fruits is usually minimal. A large percentage of fruit drop or total loss of fruit is likely indicative of other cherry tree problems or disease.

Black leaf spot, also sometimes known as shot hole disease, is a problem that affects all stone fruit trees, including cherries. It isn’t as serious on cherries as it is on some other fruit trees, but it’s still best if it’s avoided. Keep reading to learn more about how to manage black leaf spot and shot hole disease on cherry trees.

What Causes Cherry Black Leaf Spot?

Cherry black leaf spot is a disease caused by the bacterium Xanthomonas arboricola var. pruni, also sometimes referred to as Xanthomonas pruni. It affects only stone fruits, and while it is most common on plums, nectarines, and peaches, it is also known to affect cherry trees.

Symptoms of Shot Hole Disease on Cherries

Cherry trees that fall victim to black leaf spot first exhibit symptoms as small, irregularly shaped spots of pale green or yellow on the undersides of leaves. These spots soon bleed through to the upper side and darken to brown, then black. Eventually, the diseased area falls out, earning the disease the name “shot hole.” There may still be a ring of affected tissue around the hole. Often, these spots cluster around the leaf tip. If the symptoms become severe, the whole leaf will drop from the tree. Stems may also develop cankers. If the tree becomes infected early in the growing season, fruit may develop in strange, distorted shapes.

Preventing Black Leaf Spot on Cherry Trees

Though the symptoms may sound bad, cherry shot hole is not a very serious disease. This is good news, because there does not yet exist an effective chemical or antibacterial control. The best method of prevention is to plant trees that are resistant to the bacterium. It’s also a good idea to keep your cherry trees well fertilized and watered, because a stressed tree is always more likely to succumb to a disease. Even if you do see signs of infection, however, it’s not the end of the world.

Spring cherry blossoms are a sign that those juicy, shiny, delicious fruits are soon on their way. Leaves form just about the same time or shortly after. If the leaves of your cherry tree are mottled yellow with necrotic lesions, these may be necrotic rusty mottle symptoms. What is necrotic rusty mottle virus? It is unknown what causes this disease, but it seems to spread slowly in orchards, giving some chance of control if the disease is diagnosed early enough.

What is Necrotic Rusty Mottle Virus?

Necrotic rusty mottle in cherries is not a common problem. However, it can occur in the sweet cherry cultivars as well as Portuguese laurel, which is also in the Prunus genus. Crop loss may occur and the vigor of the tree is diminished due to foliage loss. The disease is a virus but closely resembles many fungal issues. Fungicides will not help, though, and a cherry tree with necrotic rusty mottle virus often dies within 1 to 2 years. Leaves develop brown lesions about a month after bloom in most cases, although the disease may be present in buds as well. The infected tissue drops out of the leaf, leaving shot holes. Infected terminal buds will fail to open. In extreme cases, the leaves will die and fall from the tree. If the leaves remain attached and the disease progression is slow, they develop yellow mottling. The bark can also exhibit symptoms of darkened patches with infected sap deposits that are deeply colored and thick. Widespread defoliation often occurs in cherry trees with necrotic rusty mottle virus, causing diminished tree health.

What Causes Necrotic Rusty Mottle Virus in Cherries?

The actual causal agent hasn't been identified beyond its classification as a virus. It isn't even known what the vector might be that introduces the disease, but it is a virus in the family Betaflexviridae. The virus has been found in North America, Chile, Europe, Japan, China, and New Zealand. The disease can spread easily in orchard situations and cool, spring weather increases necrotic rusty mottle symptoms. The disease is also known to spread through infected bud or graft wood. There are resistant cultivars.

Controlling Rusty Mottle Virus

Speedy identification early in the season is crucial. Removal of leaves that exhibit signs of cankers or mottling should be removed and destroyed. Clean up dropped, diseased leaves around trees. Use resistant cultivars and avoid Lambert and Corum, which are very susceptible to rusty mottle virus. Install only certified virus-tested, disease-free trees. Unfortunately, in orchards the disease can spread to nearly all of the trees and they will have to be removed. There are no listed chemical or natural controls.

Brown rot in cherry trees is a serious fungal disease that infects stems, blossoms and fruit. It may also infect ornamental cherry trees. This nasty fungus, which also affects apricots, peaches, plums and nectarines, reproduces quickly and can soon reach epidemic proportions. Controlling cherry brown rot isn’t easy and requires careful attention to sanitation and timely application of certain fungicides. Read on to learn more about cherry brown rot treatment.

Symptoms of Cherries with Brown Rot

The first symptoms of cherries with brown rot are browning of blossoms and small brown spots on ripening fruit, followed by death of small twigs. Infected blossoms often drop off the tree and gummy cankers appear on twigs between healthy and diseased areas. Fruit remaining on the tree may become mummified. The spores spread in damp weather, when you may see clumps powdery, brownish-gray spores on infected flowers and fruit.

Controlling Cherry Brown Rot Treatment

Here are some tips for the management of brown rot in cherry trees in the landscape: Sanitation: Pick up fallen fruit around the tree and rake all other plant debris to decrease the number of spores. Remove any mummified cherries that remain on the tree in early spring. Pruning: When pruning cherry trees in winter, remove any twigs that have died as a result of brown rot. Prune all branches with cankers. Fungicides: If signs of brown rot appear after sanitation and pruning, a fungicide may prevent infection. Brown rot in cherry trees must be sprayed with fungicides at two separate times, as follows:

• Spray fungicides for brown rot in cherry trees when blossoms first begin to open. Repeat according to label recommendations until the petals drop.
• Spray the trees when fruit is ripening, generally two to three weeks before harvest. Repeat according to label recommendations until the fruit is harvested.

Use only fungicides labeled for the particular type of tree. Some products are safe to use on ornamental cherries but unsafe for edible cherries. Also, products registered for use on peaches or plums may not be safe or effective for controlling cherry brown rot. Fungicides for cherry brown rot treatment will be more effective if you continue proper sanitation and pruning. Note: Any recommendations pertaining to the use of chemicals are for informational purposes only. Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and more environmentally friendly

Do you have sweet cherries that develop mold or canker? They probably have cherry brown rot. Unfortunately, warm, wet weather conditions that are a necessity to cherry trees bring with it a higher incidence of fungal disease such as this. The disease not only affects cherries but also can be present in peaches, plums, apricots, and almonds. Brown rot cherry symptoms can increase exponentially in as little as 24 hours and decimate a crop. Read on for more information on treating cherry brown rot.

Cherry Brown Rot Information

Brown rot on cherry trees is caused by the fungus Monilinia fructicola, which spreads rapidly during ripening and in storage post-harvest. The pathogen responsible overwinters in dropped fruit or still-attached mummy fruit and any other affected plant material. Brown rot in cherries is fostered by warm, wet weather. When spring arrives with its showers and warmer temperatures, the fungus awakens and begins to bloom. All those mummies still on the plant spread spores to developing flowers and young fruit. The longer the period of wet conditions, the shorter the incubation time, thus symptoms develop more rapidly. Spores are produced first on early maturing cherries and then spread to late maturing trees, affecting both edible and ornamental cultivars. Not only that, but during ripening, fruit is susceptible to insects and fruit cracking, leaving open wounds ideal for spore infection. Brown rot on a cherry tree may also cause twig blight, which gradually weakens trees and makes them more vulnerable to other fungal infections and to winter injury.

Cherry Brown Rot Symptoms

The initial symptoms of brown rot in cherry trees are browning and death of blossoms. While blooms that are killed by brown rot stay attached to the branch with a sticky residue, those that are killed due to frost fall to the ground. Twig blight, most common in apricots, may also afflict a tree with brown rot as the infection progresses from the infected bloom to the spur and into the branch, resulting in a canker. These cankers are discolored and often covered with a sticky residue between the diseased and healthy portions of the branch. The cankers may girdle the entire branch as the disease progresses which causes the leaves to wilt and brown. On fruit, the disease manifests as small, firm, brown lesions. The lesion grows rapidly until the entire fruit is covered. Over time, the fruit dries and shrivels but stays attached to the tree even into the successive year. All parts of the tree infected with brown rot become covered with tan to gray powdery spores, particularly when conditions are damp and temperatures are above 41 degrees F. (5 C.). A cherry tree with brown rot will have lower yields and poor vigor. It's important to treat for this disease early if you want a significant harvest. Several controls are possible, but the best defense is using resistant cultivars.

Treating Cherry Brown Rot

The best defense is to use resistant cultivars. If you already have a cherry tree, remove the mummies, prune off infected plant material, and rake up under the tree. Prune the tree to create an open canopy with good air circulation. Also, remove any branches with cankers or twigs that have died from the disease. Water from under the leaves. Because the fungus lingers in fruit detritus, keeping the area surrounding the trees free from fallen fruit and other debris is of paramount importance. While the disease will not be eradicated, the number of spores produced will be lowered, which makes brown rot easier to control.

If sanitation and pruning have had no effect on the severity of the disease, fungicides may be used. Copper fungicides will have some benefit but are not good enough in certain conditions. Fungicides must be applied twice, first when blossoms begin to open and then again two to three weeks before harvest. Do not apply the fungicide when fruit is still green. Wait until the fruit is ripening. Always read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for fungicide application. Additionally, any product with pyrethrins and sulfur can provide good organic control. Sanitizing and cleaning up old plant material are the easiest and least toxic methods of cherry brown rot treatment.

Little cherry virus is one of the few fruit tree diseases that describe their primary symptoms in the common name. This disease is evidenced by super small cherries that don’t taste good. If you are growing cherry trees, you’ll want to know the ins and outs of managing this virus. Read on for information about the causes of little cherry, its symptoms, and methods for control.

What Causes Little Cherry?

If you are wondering what causes little cherry disease (LCD), the pathogens have been identified as three different viruses. They are believed to be spread from tree to tree by mealybugs and leafhoppers. They can also be spread by propagation and grafting. All three pathogens of this disease occur in the Pacific Northwest, among other locations. They are identified as: Little Cherry Virus 1, Little Cherry Virus 2, and Western X phytoplasma.

Little Cherry Symptoms

If your trees have little cherry virus, you likely won’t realize it until just before the harvest. At that time, you’ll notice that the cherries are only about half the normal size. You may also notice that the fruit of your cherry tree isn’t the bright red you expect. Other little cherry symptoms include the taste. The fruit is bitter and cannot be eaten or, in a commercial production, marketed.

Managing Little Cherry

Some cherry tree diseases can be treated successfully but, unfortunately, little cherry virus is not among them. No wonder cures have been found for this orchard problem. Managing little cherry doesn’t mean, in this case, saving the tree. Rather, managing little cherry disease only means identifying the little cherry symptoms, having the tree tested, then removing it if it is diseased. All other cherries in the area should also be inspected. However, don’t automatically assume that a tree with small cherries has this disease. Many factors can result in small fruit, from cold damage to inadequate nutrition. With these issues though, the leaves may also be affected. With little cherry, the entire tree looks great other than the fruit size. Since this can be confusing, don’t make the decision yourself. Before you rip out your garden cherry trees, take a sample and send it out for testing. Your local extension office can normally help with this.

If your cherry trees are producing sickly fruit late in the season, it may be time to read up on rusty mottle cherry disease. What is cherry rusty mottle? The term includes several viral diseases of cherry trees, including rusty mottle of cherry and necrotic rusty mottle.

What is Cherry Rusty Mottle?

Several viral diseases attack cherry trees, and two of these diseases are called rusty mottle of cherry and necrotic rusty mottle. While experts have determined that rusty mottle diseases are caused by viruses, they do not have much other information. For example, scientists agree that your tree will get a rusty mottle cherry disease if you plant infected stock, but they don’t know how else the viruses are spread. The exact symptoms of a viral cherry tree disease differ among trees. In general, rusty mottle cherry disease reduces fruit harvest and fruit quality. It also slows down fruit ripening.

Treating Cherries with Rusty Mottle

How can you tell if you have cherries with rusty mottle? Don’t look for your trees to die suddenly, because generally they won’t. They just lose energy. Rusty mottle of cherry causes the cherry tree leaves to turn yellow or red. Many will drop before the fruit harvest. Those leaves that don’t drop turn rust colored, and are mottled with yellow and brown. What about the fruit? Cherries with rusty mottle will be smaller than normal cherries of the same cultivar. They will ripen late and lack flavor. Some are totally tasteless. If your tree has necrotic rusty mottle, you’ll see both flowers and leaves appear late in spring. The leaves will develop brown necrotic or rusty chlorotic spots. These may fall from the leaf leaving holes. The entire tree can lose its leaves. Sadly, if your cherry tree has rusty mottle of cherry or necrotic rusty mottle, the best thing you can do is to remove it from your garden and dispose of it, as there is no effective treatment. You can buy virus-free trees to reduce your chances of having to deal with these viruses in the future.

If you’ve spent much time out in woods, especially around wild cherry trees, you have most likely noticed irregular, odd looking growths or galls on tree branches or trunks. Trees in the Prunus family, such as cherry or plum, grow wildly throughout North America and other countries and are highly susceptible to a serious fall producing fungal disease known as cherry black knot disease or just black knot. Read on for more cherry black knot information.

About Cherry Black Knot Disease

Black knot of cherry trees is a fungal disease caused by the pathogen Apiosporina morbosa. Fungal spores are spread amongst trees and shrubs in the Prunus family by spores that travel on wind and rain. When conditions are damp and humid, spores settle on young plant tissues of the current year’s growth and infect the plant, causing galls to form. Old wood is not infected; however, the disease may go unnoticed for a couple years because the initial formation of galls is slow and inconspicuous. Cherry black knot is most common in wild Prunus species, but it can also infect ornamental and edible landscape cherry trees. When new growth is infected, usually in spring or early summer, small brown galls begin to form on branches near a leaf node or fruit spur. As the galls grow, they become larger, darker, and harder. Eventually, the galls crack open and become covered with velvety, olive-green fungal spores which will spread the disease to other plants or other parts of the same plant. Cherry black knot disease is not a systemic disease, meaning it only infects certain parts of the plant, not the entire plant. After releasing its spores, the galls turn black and crust over. The fungus then overwinters inside the gall. These galls will continue to grow and release spores year after year if not treated. As the galls enlarge, they may girdle cherry branches, causing leaf drop and branch dieback. Sometimes galls may form on tree trunks as well.

Treating Cherry Trees with Black Knot

Fungicide treatments of black knot of cherry trees is only effective in preventing the spread of the disease. It is important to always read and follow fungicide labels thoroughly. Studies have shown that fungicides containing captan, lime sulfur, chlorothalonil, or thiophanate-methyl are effective in preventing new plant growth from contracting cherry black knot. They will not, however, cure already present infections and galls. Preventative fungicides should be applied to new growth in spring to early summer. It may also be wise to avoid planting ornamental or edible cherries near a location that contains many wild Prunus species. Although fungicides cannot treat the galls of cherry black knot disease, these galls can be removed by pruning and cutting. This should be done in winter when the tree is dormant. When cutting out cherry black knot galls on branches, the entire branch may need to be cut off. If you can remove the gall without cutting off the whole branch, cut an extra 1 to 4 inches (2.5-10 cm.) around the gall to ensure that you get all infected tissues. Galls should be immediately destroyed by fire after removal. Only certified arborists should attempt to remove large galls growing on the trunks of cherry trees.

Cherry leaf spot is usually considered a disease of low concern, however, in severe cases it can cause defoliation and failure of fruit to develop. It primarily occurs on tart cherry crops. Cherry leaves with spots are the first symptoms, especially on new leaves. The spots on cherry leaves are easy to confuse with several other fungal diseases. Knowing what the signs are and implementing early treatment can help save your crop.

Recognizing Cherry Leaf Spot Disease

Cherry season is a cheery time of year with pies and preserves the result of a good harvest. Leaf spots on cherry can signify a disease that could compromise that yield. What causes cherry leaf spots? Most commonly a fungus called Blumeriella jaapii, once known as Coccomyces hiemali. It is prevalent in periods of intense rainfall. The disease first appears on upper parts of leaves. The spots on cherry leaves will measure 1/8 to 1/4 inch (.318 to .64 cm.) in diameter. These fungal leaf spots on cherry trees are circular and start as red to purple in tone. As the disease develops, the spots become rusty brown to totally brown and begin to appear on the undersides of the leaves. Whitish downy material appears in the centers of the spots, which is the spore of the fungus. The spores may drop out, making tiny shot holes in the leaves. The causal fungi overwinter on infected dropped leaves. In the warming temperatures of spring with accompanying rainfall, the fungi start to grow and produce spores. These are transmitted through rain splash and wind to land on uninfected foliage. Temperatures that enhance spore formation are between 58 and 73 degrees F. (14-23 C.). The disease attacks the stomata of a leaf, which is not open until young leaves unfurl. Then spots can appear within 10 to 15 days after the leaf has become infected. The period between May and June is when the disease is most active.

Cherry Leaf Spot Treatment

Once you have cherry leaves with spots, the best control is to set up preventive measures for the next season. Fungicides are not very affective once the tree is in full leaf and much of the foliage is infected. Begin removing and destroying the dropped leaves at the understory. These contain spores that will overwinter and infect the next season's new leaves. In orchard situations, the best option may be to mow the dropped leaves to chop them up and hasten composting. The following year, very early in the season just as leaves are beginning to bud, apply fungicide such as chlorothalonil. Apply this cherry leaf spot treatment as the leaves are beginning to unfurl and again two weeks after bloom to prevent disease development and save your crop of glossy, juicy cherries.

If you have a cherry tree with leaves peppered with small circular red to purple spots, you may have a cherry leaf spot issue. What’s cherry leaf spot? Read on to find out how to identify a cherry tree with leaf spot and what to do if you have leaf spots on cherries.

What is Cherry Leaf Spot?

Leaf spots on cherries are caused by the fungus Blumeriella jaapi. The disease is also known as “yellow leaf” or “shot hole” disease and also affects plums. English Morello cherry trees are most commonly afflicted with leaf spot, and the disease is considered to be serious in the Midwest, New England states, and Canada. The disease is so prevalent that it has been estimated to infect 80% of eastern United States orchards. The disease must be controlled annually lest it overtake the orchard, which can reduce yields by almost 100%.

Symptoms of a Cherry Tree with Leaf Spot

The fungus overwinters in dead leaves and then in the spring, apothecia develop. These lesions are small, round, red to purplish to start and as the disease progresses, merge and turn brown. The centers of the lesions may fall out and give the leaf the characteristic “shot hole” appearance. The “shot hole” appearance is more common on sour cherries than sweet varieties. Older leaves yellow prior to dropping from the tree and severely infected trees may become defoliated by the middle of summer. Spores are produced on the underside of leaf lesions and look like a white to pinkish mass at the center of the lesion. The spores are then ejected during rain events starting at petal fall.

How to Manage Cherry Leaf Spot Issues

If cherry leaf spot is allowed to go unchecked, it will result in several negative effects. Fruit tends to be dwarfed in size and ripen unevenly. The tree will be more susceptible to winter damage, loss of fruit spurs, small fruit buds, decreased fruit size and yield, and eventually death of the tree occurs. Trees that become infected early enough in the spring set fruit that fails to mature. The fruit will be light in color, soft, and low in sugar. Due to the detrimental long-term effects of the disease, it is extremely important to get a handle on the management of leaf spot. Management is done through the application of fungicides from petal fall through to the middle of the summer. Also, remove and destroy fallen leaves to eradicate as much of the inconspicuous spore bearing structures as possible. To further reduce the infection rate, add a layer of straw mulch to the ground once all the leaves have been raked up. If a fungicide is in order, begin applying two weeks after blossoming when the leaves are completely open. Repeat according to the manufacturer’s instructions throughout the growing season including one application post-harvest. Look for fungicides with the active ingredient of myclobutanil or captan. Fungicide resistance may develop if the fungicide is applied too frequently; to prevent resistance, alternate between the myclobutanil and captan. Also, fungicides with the active ingredient copper may show some effectiveness against leaf spot.

Cherry rust is a common fungal infection that causes early leaf drop in not just cherries, but also peaches and plums. In most cases, this is not a serious infection, and it probably won’t damage your crop. On the other hand, a fungal infection should always be taken seriously and managed as necessary to prevent it from becoming severe.

What is Cherry Rust?

Rust in cherry trees is a fungal infection caused by Tranzschelia discolor. This fungus infects cherry trees as well as peach, plum, apricot, and almond trees. It can be damaging to trees because it causes the leaves to drop prematurely, which weakens the tree overall and may affect yield. However, this kind of damage generally happens late in the season, so the disease doesn’t have a major impact on the fruit produced. Early signs, which appear in the spring, are cankers on twigs. These may appear as blisters or long splits on year-old twigs and bark. Eventually, the signs of rust on a cherry tree will show in the leaves. You’ll first see pale yellow spots on the surfaces of the leaves. These will then turn brighter yellow in color. The spots on the undersides of the leaves will change to brownish or reddish (like rust) pustules that host the fungal spores. If the infection is severe, it may produce spots on the fruit as well.

Cherry Rust Control

If you see little to no damage to leaves on cherries with rust fungus until later in the season, your crop was likely not affected. However, you may want to apply a fungicide in the fall to bring the infection under control. A lime and sulfur fungicide is typically used for cherry rust control. It should be applied all over the tree, once the fruit has been harvested, to both sides of the leaves, all branches and twigs, and the trunk.

What are black cherry aphids? As you might suspect, black cherry aphids are a problem of cherry growers across nearly every region of the United States. While the pests will feed on any type of cherry, sweet cherries are most susceptible. Fortunately, managing black cherry aphids is possible, and damage is usually minimal if the pests are properly controlled in early spring. However, damage is sometimes severe on young trees, where even a few of the pests can create havoc. Read on for more black cherry aphid information and tips on black cherry aphid treatment.

Signs of Black Cherry Aphids

Black cherry aphids are easy to spot. They are shiny, metallic black, and at 1/8 inch (3 mm.), are quite a bit larger than most aphids. The pests emerge from eggs that overwintered in the bark, hatching as soon as buds begin to open in spring. Mature black cherry aphids may be winged or wingless. Large colonies of black cherry aphids develop quickly, with two or three generations appearing by midsummer. By this time, the pests generally move on to alternate food supplies – especially weeds and plants of the mustard family. The aphids return to the trees in autumn to mate and lay eggs. Signs of black cherry aphids include curled, distorted leaves and a large amount of sticky “honeydew” on cherries and leaves. The honeydew often attracts black sooty mold, which can render the fruit inedible.

Managing Black Cherry Aphids

The most effective way to control black cherry aphids is to protect and encourage the presence of natural predators such as lady beetles, syrphid flies, lacewing larvae, parasitic wasps, and soldier beetles. If possible, avoid broad-spectrum insecticides, which are harmful to beneficial insects, including bees. Products such as Malathion or Diazinon should be used only as a last resort in black cherry aphid treatment. Watch trees closely when buds are appearing in late winter. Yellow sticky cards placed on various parts of the tree will quickly give you a clue about the severity of a black cherry aphid infestation. Aphids are easier to manage before the leaves are curled, and you may be able to dislodge the pests with a strong stream of water. For stubborn infestations, early spring is also the best time to spray black cherry aphids with horticultural oil, a natural substance that will kill the aphids as they hatch. You can also spray affected trees with insecticidal soap, but don’t spray when temperatures are very warm, or when bees are present. Evening is the safest time to apply insecticidal soap sprays. You may need to reapply the soap two or three times to gain control.