Spring purchased garden mums are the best choice for a colorful autumn display and the promise of a return after winter. But don’t neglect mums this summer if you want to ensure lots of blooms in the fall. Even if you dutifully pinch their growth back for a compact shape, there is more to do.

To encourage the most blooms on your chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum x morifolium), summer care is important. Preventing drought stress, providing ample nutrients, shaping your plant, and eliminating pests, plus a few other easy tasks will ensure your plants are full of flowers in fall.

Mums are offered for sale in late summer and fall, already in bud, but growing mums beginning in spring brings the best return on investment. Often the mums sold in fall are only for seasonal decorative use. So learning to grow your own mums and care for them during every month is the ideal way to get huge autumn blooms.

July Mum Must-Do Tasks

Mums planted in spring should be well established by now and receiving ongoing care for pinching, fertilizing, watering, mulching, and controlling pests. These tips will see your mums through July and beyond.

1. Pinch Plants

Pinching the growing tips on mums starts in spring when the plant is 6 inches (15 cm) tall. Pinch plants again when the newly formed side branches are 6 to 8 inches tall or every four to six weeks. Stop pruning mums by mid-July to allow buds to form. Pinching too late could delay flowering.

To pinch mums, just grasp the tip of each stem above a leaf node and pinch off half an inch to one inch (1.25-2.5 cm) of stems and leaves. Snippers or hand pruners work, too, for trimming. These Felco pruners are a favorite of our gardening experts.

Prune your mum into a rounded shape to keep it tight for fall. Pinching back the stems will force side shoots and keep the plant shorter and well branched for a compact shape with more stems for blooms.

2. Fertilize for Flowers

If you fertilize your mums in spring with a slow-release fertilizer, it should last through July. If the foliage looks lackluster now, you can apply a side-dressing of an organic fertilizer, like this one from Miracle-Gro.

Some prefer a liquid fertilizer, such as 5-10-10 or 10-10-10, which can be applied monthly in July. Follow the label instructions for the correct amount, but you will either need to mix it with water before application or apply it around the root zone then thoroughly water it in.

There are different schools of thought on what fertilizer ratio to use, so establish your own regimen on what works for your plants. If the mums are getting long and lanky, however, they are receiving too much nitrogen fertilizer. Once the buds have formed, you should stop fertilizing.

3. Water Well

Overwatering or underwatering can both sound the death knell for mums. Too much water promotes root rot and too little water results in drought stress. Water mums deeply, but wait till the top of the soil is dry to water again. Avoid wetting the leaves, which can promote fungal issues.

Consistency is key here. Keep the mums well hydrated throughout the summer to avoid drought stress, which can inhibit blooming. A simple drip irrigation system, like this one from Home Depot that Content Editor Laura uses in her garden, ensures plants get water at the base where they need it most.

4. Add Mulch

Mulching is important to moderate the soil temperature during the peak of summer heat, which often occurs in July. Mulch also helps retain an even moisture level and controls weeds. If you neglected adding mulch in spring, do it now so the summer heat does not dry out the soil too quickly.

5. Keep an Eye on Pests

Keep an eye out for pests on your mums as well as your other plants. If you water by hand, that is a good time to scout for intruders. Mums are commonly affected by aphids, which are oval-shaped, sap-feeding insects. Leaf miners are another common problem. They are tiny fly larvae that tunnel through leaves. Spider mites are the other top pest on mums. They are practically invisible, sap-feeding arachnids.

Aphids are large enough to see on the underside of leaves and new shoots, usually in groups, feeding on leaves. Damage includes stunted plants, distorted leaves, and honeydew, which is a sticky substance left on leaves. Control them with blasts of water, insecticidal soap, or neem oil, both of which you can get on Amazon. However, beneficial insects such as ladybugs and their larvae, often control aphids naturally without your intervention.

Leaf miners create noticeable winding tunnels through the leaves. They are difficult to control because they are inside the leaves. Remove the leaves as soon as you see the trails and discard them in the trash. Pick up any dropped leaves and discard in the trash.

Spider mite damage shows up as speckling on leaves from their feeding and fine webbing between stems, on flower buds, or on the undersides of leaves. To control spider mites use forceful sprays of water at regular intervals, insecticidal soap, neem oil, or a miticide. If the infestation is severe, remove the affected leaves and stems.

By following these tips, your mums should be compact, thick with healthy stems, and full of buds by late summer to fall, depending on the variety and your planting zone. Once your mums are in glorious bloom, pinch off the faded flowers and you will be rewarded with successive blooms.

As you begin planning your autumnal front porch display, you may wonder are chrysanthemums toxic to cats? Cats are very tactile and curious creatures who must investigate everything for themselves, either through touch or taste. If your kitty is an outdoor cat, or you have a chrysanthemum inside where he can get to it, you should take precautions to keep kitty safe.

Chrysanthemums are common flowering bushes. They have lovely flowers in autumn hues and are common gift plants at florist shops. Mums are members of the daisy family and have the characteristic style of blooms for which the group is known. Many gardeners plant their potted mums outside with some success and there are also hardier, outdoor species.

Over time the plants will become large bushes that are cut back in late winter to make way for the emergence of new stems and foliage. By fall, the plants are adorned with the cheery flowers. An outdoor cat will find the foliage and flowers very interesting.

Why Are Mums Toxic To Cats?

Chrysanthemum compounds have been extensively studied. One compound that makes mums toxic to cats is pyrethrin, and it is part of many organic insecticides. It is dangerous for aquatic life and especially dangerous to felines. This compound can cause serious neurological and gastrointestinal issues.

Another chemical found in mums is Sesquiterpene lactones. The chemical is responsible for skin and stomach problems. Finally, the essential oils which most plants have can cause various oral irritations and drooling.

It’s not only cats, but also dogs and horses who may get into distress after grazing on chrysanthemums. Unfortunately, cats are known plant snackers. They will taste many types of plant just because they are curious but also in search of something to help with hairballs. If the cat ingests some of the plant’s sap, there could be some serious physical symptoms.

Signs Of Poisoning In Cats

If you suspect kitty has been munching on your indoor mums, you may notice some symptoms which may be mild but can become serious. It’s always important to know our pets well so we can notice quickly when they are off or not feeling well. In a cat there are some specific signs to look out for if mum toxicity is suspected:

• Drooling
• Lack of coordination
• Lethargy
• Loss of appetite
• Depression
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Seizures
• Skin irritation

Determining if the cause is due to mum poisoning or another plant is nearly impossible. But the clues are there if a cat and chrysanthemum are in the same area. Your vet can also perform certain tests to rule out other potential health conditions which have similar symptoms.

Are All Mums Poisonous To Cats?

There are many varieties of chrysanthemum. They are classed by their flowers. There are single, double, spider, pompon, thistle, anemone, and incurved, just to name the most popular. There are also both florist and garden varieties. Garden species are hardier, larger, and perennial. Florist mums are bred to be compact and are not as hardy.

Are Chrysanthemums poisonous to cats in all classes? Unfortunately, any variety of mum is toxic to our feline friends. The reaction may vary from cat to cat, but serious illness can result in some instances.

What To Do If Your Cat Eats Chrysanthemums

If the animal has contact dermatitis, the irritation may resolve on its own. However, cats clean themselves frequently so it is a good idea to wash the area with warm water so kitty can’t ingest further sap.

If the cat is vomiting or has diarrhea, you should call your vet. In most cases, this will also resolve itself but you don’t want to take any chances. So check with your vet immediately if you suspect a mum encounter.

If the cat is lethargic, uninterested in food or you, and especially if a seizure occurs, take the animal immediately for medical care. The vet may perform blood tests to determine the level of toxins in the cats.

If it is severe, the doctor may induce vomiting in an effort to get the poison out of the animal. After any further toxins have been removed the cat will need supportive care. This may involve IV fluids and certain medications to control symptoms.

You can also call the ASPCA Poison Control's 24-hour emergency poison hotline at (888) 426-4435. Learn more about what plants are dangerous to animals with the ASPCA's Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants List.

How To Prevent Problems

The most obvious way to avoid problems is to remove the plant. But if you have an outdoor cat and there is already a large bush, this could be difficult. You can cut it down or use certain sprays to keep the cat away from the plant. Spray the plant with cinnamon or cayenne pepper mixed into water to repel the kitty. You might also make a cage around the plant with chicken wire or similar material to keep the cat from accessing the foliage.

During the fall, keep the cat indoors. In the home interior, you can keep cut mums out of the reach of cats. A chrysanthemum plant should be in a room where the cat has no access. You can also spray interior plants with cinnamon or cayenne. If your cat tends to browse your houseplants, use the water spray training method to enforce better behaviors. This won’t hurt the cat but the kitty won’t like being sprayed with water. Provide alternative cat safe plant options like cat grass that the cat can safely eat. Find organic cat grass seed at Chewy to give kitty a tasty and safe treat.

If you live in a rural area and are worried about your fall plantings, you may wonder, “Do deer eat mums?” Chrysanthemums are one of the most beloved and easy to grow late season flowering plants. They are often the sendoff from a glorious summer and the introduction to the cooler months. But will your transition plants be safe from hungry grazers, if you plant them out in your garden this autumn?

Deer forage for a wide variety of foods and our ornamental plants are one of their favorites. If you live in a region where deer browsing is common, you should consider using plants that these animals do not like to eat. This isn’t foolproof since deer will devour even plants they normally dislike during lean times, but it can help prevent damage when growing mums and other fall plants.

So are mums on the “no-grazing” list for deer or are they likely to be chewed up as soon as you plant them? I’ll reveal whether or not mums are deer-resistant plants and provide some tips about how to protect plants when wildlife is at its hungriest.

Do Deer Eat Mums?

Like many flowering and foliage plants, deer will eat mums like candy. And they are almost candy because the flowers are high in sugar. They are also high in the animal’s necessary nutrients, meaning that chrysanthemums are actually a preferred food of deer.

So are mums deer resistant? Sadly, not at all since the animals seek them out. The bright flowers and rich foliage are visually appealing and appear just as many of their seasonal foods are disappearing. Some plants related to mums, like feverfew, are rarely bothered by deer, but others plants in the same family, like shasta daisies, are high on the animal’s dining menu.

How To Protect Mums From Deer

So now we know that deer do like to eat mums, but what can we do to stop deer from eating plants? Rural gardeners are well aware of the damage to their plants by foragers like skunks, badgers, voles, rabbits, deer, and other animals. What works for one gardener might not work for another, but most set up preventative measures to protect their garden from hungry marauders.

Additionally, each animal’s access points are different so varying borders are necessary to target each mammal. Deer repellents and deterrents, which you can get on Amazon, are all part of the plan to keep unwanted animals away from your plants.

1. Try a Deer-Repellent

There are many commercially available deer repellents. Our Content Editor Laura Walters swears by Liquid Fence deer repellent spray, which you can find on Amazon.

You can also easily make your own homemade deer repellents. These either repel by scent or by making the plant taste bad. One of the easiest and most effective is a spray made of 80 percent eggs and 20 percent water. The eggs should be whipped and strained to prevent the mixture from clogging. Spray this after every two weeks.

You can also mix in cayenne pepper, cinnamon, or garlic into your homemade pest spray. These alter the taste of the plants to the degree the animal will eschew browsing.

Physical objects hung on the plant can have some deterring effect. These might include bars of strong smelling soap, like Irish Spring from Walmart, hung in mesh bags or even human hair.

2. Make Plants Inaccessible

In addition to repellents, there are other tools in your arsenal for keeping deer out of the garden. Borders that keep the deer out of the area are very effective. You can purchase or build a deer proof fence to keep animals away from mums. This needs to be at least 6 feet (1.83 m.) high as deer are very good at jumping high obstacles.

If you already have a fence, add material to the top of it to bring it to that height. A highly effective barrier is an electric deer fence but this can be costly. You can quickly build a cage around the mum with mesh fencing or chicken wire. Or use premade wire cloches, like these ones from Amazon.

3. Install a Sprinkler

Will deer eat mums if they are going to get sprayed with water? Probably not. That's why a motion activated sprinkler is another good option to keep deer away from mums. You can find solar or battery-powered sprinklers on Amazon.

One downside to this method, is that over time, animals will learn that it's just water and won’t be bothered by the sprinkler as much anymore.

4. Grow Deer-Repellent Plants

Scent is a powerful attractant to animals. They know what tastes good by the aroma. But if you put deer-resistant perennials and annuals with strong scents near your chrysanthemums, these plants can repel deer.

Fragrant herbs are especially useful. They put off strong scents due to their high levels of essential oils. Dill, lavender, sage, thyme, oregano, catmint, and mint are all useful plants when it comes to deterring deer.

Members of the Allium family can also help keep the deer away from the flowers. Onions, chives, shallot, leeks, and others not only have a strong smell from the bulbs, but also on their leaves. Deer also don’t like the scent of bee balm.

Shop high-quality herb seeds and plants from Burpee.

5. Put Pets To Work

If you are an animal lover, consider using your dog to deter deer. Pooches will often bark when a deer is nearby and cause the unwanted animal to take run off. Using a dog to deter deer is similar to using a noisemaker deterrent, like the kinds you can buy on Amazon.

Avoid letting your dog chase after deer as they are large animals and will kick to defend themselves. Dogs, especially hunting dogs, may go after the deer so make sure your animal is secured to prevent harm to either the deer or your pet pup.

There's no need to go out and adopt a big guard dog. Even a small dog’s barking can make a deer think twice about coming into your yard and snacking on your mums.

6. Plant a Different Fall Flower

None of these methods are foolproof when it comes to a hungry deer. Instead of growing mums, which deer love to munch, try some plants that deer do not like.

Smoke trees, goldenrod, autumn sage, and Japanese anemones are all plants that are rarely, if ever, browsed by deer and provide a colorful fall display. They will still provide flowers for your landscape, but without you having to take drastic measures to protect them from deer.

Shop stunning deer-resistant plants from Wayside Gardens for a lovely, Bambi-proof landscape.

Chrysanthemums have a special place at the far end of summer. When other flowering ornamentals are starting to slow down and run out of steam, chrysanths are hitting their stride as the days start to shorten and the temperatures start to cool. Depending on variety and region, knowing how to deadhead mums can guarantee you masses of hearty blooms from late summer all the way to the first frost.

Removing dead and faded flowers is a great way to keep your homegrown mums at their best as other ornamentals start to fade. Using pruners or kitchen shears, this is a fun and relaxing job to do every week or so once blooms appear. And when you deadhead mums, you are doing more than just cleaning up the plant and making it look pretty again. You are improving the plant's health while fooling it into making more flowers. Here’s how to keep your mums happy for longer.

Why do you Deadhead Chrysanthemums?

It’s common to find chrysanthemums bursting into flower around the end of the summer. Mums bloom when the nights get longer and the temperature begins to cool. As perennials, many mum varieties have the potential to flower until the first frost, when they die back for winter, only to bounce back the following year as the night hours lengthen and the soil warms. So it’s important to do everything you can to extend that flowering display for as long as you can.

The reason for deadheading the flowers is simple – it persuades the plant to make more flowers, so mums bloom for longer. Plants produce flowers in the first place to set seed. When you remove the flower before it has time to develop those viable seeds, the plant goes into overdrive producing more buds to create that seed and therefore propagate itself. So by taking off those first fading flowers, you are tricking the plant into making more flowers for you to enjoy.

When To Deadhead Mums

The process of deadheading mums essentially begins as soon as your plants start blooming. Some mum varieties do start blooming in August, but for most mum growers you need to start deadheading from mid-month. You should actively begin deadheading once the individual flower heads start to fade – don’t wait for them to turn crispy and wither on the stalk. Catching them early and removing them as quickly as possible keeps the energy going into flower production without missing a beat. You may need to make this a weekly process during the growing season.

When you deadhead these flowers in August in a frequent and timely way, you make sure the plant doesn’t waste energy keeping old, spent flowers alive. You are basically instructing the plant to send energy to bud nodes and develop new flowers. So by deadheading you create several blooming phases. This is true for both ground-based and container-based mums. In the case of annual mums like ‘Creeping Daisy,’ removing spent flowers prevents them setting seed and self sowing.

Which Tools You Use for Deadheading

To deadhead mums during the blooming season, you have a few options. When the flower is very far gone, you can actually pull it off – but this leaves an ugly, brown stem that ruins the green and floral effect. What is best is something that makes a clean, neat cut. Small snips, pruners or scissors are best. Make sure your tool is sharp to avoid injury to the plant. Additionally, wipe the blade with alcohol or a bleach solution to remove pathogens. This will prevent the spread of disease.

If it is early in the season and the plant is filling up with fading flowers, you can shear it. However, you should only remove the upper layer of growth. There are bound to be buds hidden in the lower stems that can now get better light. The process lacks finesse, but it’s easier on large plants than removing flowers one at a time. Utility shears are great for mass deadheading – try Scotts 8in Garden Utility Shears from Amazon to make light work of repeated cuts. If you want pruners for more precise, targeted cuts, try ClassicCut Forged Steel Bypass Hand Pruners by Corona, also at Amazon.

How To Deadhead Mums

Look at the flower stem and determine the next growth point. This shows you where to cut. If you just cut at the base of the flower, the flowering stem will still turn brown and look unsightly. Deadheading mums is a bit painstaking, so it's a good idea to take off even the flowers that are just beginning to go as well as all the brown ones. This will prevent making it a daily chore. If you have an entire cluster of dead flowers, you can still follow the stem to the next growth and remove the whole cluster there.

If you look at a chrysanthemum stem, you will notice the main stems branch out. Each one sends out tinier branches. On the terminal ends is where the buds form. In the case of a mature mum, some of these buds will be in the interior of the bulk of the plant because the stems are short. When you deadhead you can go to each dead flower and trace the stem with your finger down to where it branched. This is where you will make your cut. Doing it in this way keeps the plant from having brown stems sticking out of it. It also stimulates the growth node to send out new growth over the course of the lifespan of the chrysanthemum.

Aftercare for Your Mums

After deadheading, maintain general care for mums with regular watering, especially on hot, dry days. Once your mums are in full bloom, it’s good to maintain a regular feeding routine. Fertilize your mums every couple of weeks, ideally one with a high potassium element to support and nourish further flowering. Make sure your feed does not have a high nitrogen level during the blooming season, as this will hinder blooming and focus the plant on excessive leaf development.

As a good option for late summer and early fall, try a fertilizer with a high potash (potassium) level. It’s a good idea to keep feeding mums until they are nearing the end of the flowering season. Use Mum Fertilizer from TPS Nutrients, available from Amazon, for a higher potassium level to help with flower formation and bloom size. Alternatively, try FoxFarm Blossom Builder, also from Amazon. Failing that, a good tomato feed or high potash formula supports continued flowering.

Chrysanthemums, or just mums, always make a big appearance in the fall, often as early as August. These hardy bloomers are popular for their showy flowers that arrive just in time to complement fall colors. Anyone who decides to grow mums will delight in their gold, rust red, pink, bronze and orange hues, perfect for the season.

While many people use mums as annuals, how long do mums last really? As long as you get the right type, you can grow fall-flowering mums as perennials in many areas. It just takes a little extra care to winter mums and get them flowering again next fall. Even if you don’t want to keep them over winter, you can still take some simple steps to ensure your fall mums last longer this year…

When and For How Long Do Mums Bloom?

To understand the lifespan of chrysanthemums, it’s important to know the two main types: florist and garden. Florist mums are grown to flower profusely for a short period before dying. Garden mums are true perennials, hardy in USDA zones 5-9. Most of the potted mums you see in garden centers in the fall are garden mums. Even so, most people grow them as seasonal annuals rather than perennials. Typically, people let them flower for a few weeks and then throw them out.

So how long do mums stay in bloom if you make more of an effort? They can potentially keep blooming until (or even beyond) your first frost. You may see early or late varieties of garden mums which describe a slightly longer or shorter than average bloom time, but four to eight weeks is typical of all types.

Being grown in a pot versus the ground should not affect how a mum blooms as long as you provide it with the right conditions. If you grow mums indoors, they may be more sensitive to temperature fluctuations. One key risk with containers is that your mum won’t get enough water, simply because the soil in pots dries out more quickly. Be more careful about watering when growing mums in pots.

What Stops Chrysanthemums From Flowering

How long do chrysanthemum flowers last if they don’t get the best care? The answer is a short couple of weeks or maybe three weeks. Conditions that are less than ideal can cause your mums to stop blooming. Proper care for mums includes well-draining, rich soil, full sunshine, and knowing how often to water your mums.

How and when mums flower also depends on dark hours. Mums bloom in the fall as the nights get longer. If mums do not receive enough dark hours, or if those hours are interrupted by lights, they might not bloom on time and may bloom less than they would otherwise.

Best Ways to Make Mums Flower for Longer

If you want to make your fall mum blooms last longer, start as you mean to go on and choose a healthy-looking chrysanthemum plant with plenty of buds that haven’t opened yet. Provide it with a sunny spot, good drainage, and plenty of water. Inadequate water is a top reason pot mums stop blooming. Keep the soil moist but drained. Also, avoid getting the plant wet when watering, as this can cause the buds to deteriorate.

How long do mums bloom for? Much longer, if you’re prepared to deadhead your mum plant throughout its blooming period to stimulate new buds to open. This will keep it flowering longer. As heavy feeders, mums can benefit from fertilizer application. Use a bloom booster to keep the flowers coming.

If you’re hoping to put your mum in the ground and overwinter it, fall is not the right time for planting. This doesn’t give the mum enough time to develop good roots. Plant mums in spring for true perennial growth. Pinch spring-planted mums back twice (once as part of your spring care routine, and once more in midsummer) to encourage bushy growth and more bud formation for fall flowers.

Frequently Asked Questions

Knowing how often to water your mums makes all the difference between a short burst of color, and seasons of brilliant warmth and vitality. Chrysanthemums are always a great choice for gardeners looking to add lasting, late-season color to flower beds and mixed borders. Where conditions are ideal, perennial mums can dazzle growers season after season with their immense floral display. 

These easy-to-grow plants require only a little care, but need consistent moisture throughout the season to bloom their best. Our gardening visitors often ask us, “Do mums need a lot of water? How often should you water mums?” Here we show you how to give your plants the best chance of thriving with some simple watering tips and tricks.

How Much Water Do Mums Need?

Determining how often to water your mums depends greatly on weather conditions. When they’re grown in regions with exceptional rainfall, chrysanthemums will seldom need supplemental water. Watering mums is most necessary in gardens where temperatures remain consistently warm, or where there are prolonged periods of drought. If you can monitor moisture levels it will help to make certain that your plants are not allowed to dry completely between waterings.

How Often Do You Water Mums?

Solving the riddle of how to water mums, and how frequently, will depend on a subtle combination of planting conditions, location, soil quality and underlying plant health. However, one of the main factors is whether you are watering mums in pots or the ground: 

• Watering in Pots: Like other potted plants, mums grown in containers require watering with much greater frequency. This is especially true throughout summer when temperatures are warm. Though smaller plants may thrive with weekly watering, more established pots should be irrigated often. Although daily watering may be a necessity in some instances, the amounts needed will generally decrease as the weather begins to cool in autumn.
• Watering in the Garden: Chrysanthemums grown in the garden seldom require extra watering. In many regions, rainfall is more than sufficient to meet the needs of the plant. Still, mums will benefit from weekly watering, making certain to saturate the soil deeply down to the root zone of each plant. Since consistent moisture is critical for the production of mum flowers, you should avoid letting the soil dry between waterings.

When to Water Mums

Experienced mum growers agree that the best time to water chrysanthemums is early in the morning. Cooler temperatures at this time allow plants to draw water freely, better hydrating the mums throughout the day. Though it may be tempting to water plants late in the evening, doing so may contribute to the development of many late-season diseases.

How to Water Mums

As well as knowing how often to water your mums, there is a knack to knowing how to water them. Chrysanthemum plants are best watered from the bottom or base of the plant. This helps to avoid wetting or splashing soil onto the plant’s leaves. It also reduces the likelihood of disease in plants and helps to stop their spread. Bottom watering is most commonly done using drip irrigation lines or soaker hoses. 

These techniques allow for deep, slow watering that more effectively delivers water to the root system. Potted mums can also be watered from below by briefly submerging pots into a shallow basin of water, as well as carefully positioning a watering can at soil level.

Frequently Asked Questions

Mums are synonymous with fall. Thanks to their late bloom period, these beautiful flowers make a much-welcomed addition to the home landscape. Potted mums from garden centers adorn porches, patios, and even indoor spaces. Though some choose to treat these flowers as an annual, many have found success wintering mums in garden beds. You may also wonder if you can divide mums. “Can you split mums” is a question we often hear during the fall months.

Best Time for Splitting Mums

Determining when to divide and transplant mums is key. Though it may be tempting to divide store-bought mums in the fall just as they slip into dormancy, most experts suggest waiting. Early spring is the ideal time in which the plant can be divided, because that's when the plant and its root system are more visible. This emerging growth makes it easier to make cuts and separate each segment.

In addition to multiplying your favorite varieties, plant division can help revitalize tired mums and encourage them to bloom. To keep the flowers blooming their best, it’s a good idea to divide chrysanthemums every 2-3 years.

How To Divide Mums in the Garden

Before mums can be divided, you’ll need to carefully remove them from the soil. Working a spade around the plant in a wide circle will help ensure that the roots are not cut or damaged while being dug. Once it’s lifted from the bed, shake the excess soil from the plant to get a clear view of the root ball.

The plant should reveal numerous growth tips. Using secateurs or a sharp garden knife, make cuts carefully between each growth point. Each new division should contain a growth point, as well as a section of the original root system. Once divided, new mums can be transplanted directly into the garden.

How to Divide Potted Mums

You may also choose to keep their mums in pots. As many varieties are hardy to cold, these plants are able to overwinter with ease. Like their garden counterparts, mums in pots should also be divided in spring.

Gently slip the plant from the pot and remove the loose soil. Each growing point can then be snipped apart, along with the connected section of the plant’s roots. New plants can be moved directly into the garden or potted-up into individual containers.

How to Care for Mums After Division

Though the process of dividing mums is relatively simple, new plants will require some special care. Newly divided plants are often susceptible to heat stress. This is especially true in early spring as outdoor temperatures begin to warm. Some gardeners find that a sheltered location helps to protect the plants from the sun during the hottest parts of the afternoon. Deep watering after planting and into summer will also aid in their continued development throughout the first growing season.

Chrysanthemums are often considered to be a key part of autumn floral displays and ornamental gardens. Readily available at big box stores and plant nurseries, potted mums offer a wide array of colors that are ideal for use in fall decor. Once blooming has ceased, some growers may simply choose to dispose of the plants, but you may be surprised to find that many cultivars of chrysanthemum are actually perennial. So, do mums come back in the spring?

When Do You Cut Back Mums in the Spring?

Chrysanthemum hardiness varies depending upon the cultivar. This information can usually be found by conducting an online search of the specific variety being grown. Though most chrysanthemums are able to overwinter outdoors, gardeners with especially cold winter temperatures have found success overwintering the plant indoors in a cool place.

To prepare the plants for winter, potted mums should be allowed to naturally slip into dormancy. This occurs with the arrival of cooler fall weather. At this time, the leaves will begin to dry and may even fall from the plant. The plant will appear to have died. When spring arrives, its growth will resume from the base of the plant. Each mum will then produce several new stems from the crown of the plant. For the best results, spring mums require any old growth or dead stems to be removed. Fortunately, this process is both quick and easy.

How to Prune Mums in Spring

Mum care in spring is simple. When new growth resumes, all dried plant parts should be removed and discarded. Though you can use pruners or garden secateurs, old stems can usually be removed by hand. Once each new stem has at least 2-3 sets of new leaves, gardeners have a couple of options.

Early in the growing season is an ideal time to take chrysanthemum cuttings. Stem cuttings should be snipped just below a set of leaves. After removing the bottom leaves, each stem cutting can be placed into moist potting soil. Rooting hormone may also be used, though it is not usually necessary. Spring mum cuttings should begin to root within 1-2 weeks, providing that proper moisture and humidity levels have been met. Once the chrysanthemums have become well-rooted, they can then be moved into pots or into their permanent location in the garden.

Gardeners who don’t wish to take cuttings can allow the plant to continue to grow in place. After several weeks, the chrysanthemums will need to be “pinched” for the first time. Pinching refers to the process of removing the growth tip of each plant stem. Removing the growth tip encourages the plant to begin branching. Branching will result in plants that are bushier and will produce more flowers. Each chrysanthemum stem will need to be pinched several more times before they are finally allowed to set blooms in mid to late summer.

With proper care, you can expect chrysanthemum plants to return season after season. Over time, established plants may become crowded and will require division. Chrysanthemums should be divided in early spring, when growth has just resumed. To divide, simply dig the root ball of the plant and remove any excess soil. New plants can then be carefully separated.

Chrysanthemums have long been celebrated for their beauty. From large football types to the much more common potted varieties, mums have come to be among one of the most easily recognized symbols of fall. Potted chrysanthemums add an instant burst of color to front yards, flower beds, and porches. Mum plants continue to gain popularity for late season décor, both indoors and out. Learning more about the best time to buy mums can help shoppers purchase plants that are vibrant and healthy.

When to Buy Mums for Fall

Potted chrysanthemum plants usually begin to appear at a wide range of retailers in late summer, enticing shoppers with their brilliant array of blooms. Deciding when to purchase your own chrysanthemum plant will play a role in the duration of blooms and the amount of time in which it can be displayed before the arrival of cold weather. Most gardeners agree that the best time to purchase potted chrysanthemum plants is after the hottest portion of summer has passed. Though day and night-time temperatures will still be warm, plants are much less likely to become stressed by extreme weather.

How to Pick Mums

Choosing the best mums to buy is relatively simple. While some retailers offer a wider selection than others, mums can vary greatly in color and flower form. Most potted plants produce smaller decorative flower forms, but more unique types of mums can also be found. When purchasing chrysanthemum plants, buyers should look for plants with a lush shade of deep green. Often, very light or yellowing leaves may be early signs of disease or other issues involving soil quality.

Chrysanthemums are considered a short-day plant. This means each plant will require a specific period of darkness to initiate bloom. As the days begin to shorten in the fall, this process occurs naturally. Many commercial greenhouses mimic this by the use of artificial light, resulting in an earlier forced bloom.

With proper care, chrysanthemum plants will remain in bloom for up to 8 weeks. To ensure the longest bloom period possible, shoppers should look for plants with a large number of flower buds. Ideally, these flower buds should just be beginning to show their petals. After purchase, the buds will slowly begin to open across the plant, unveiling a grand display of color.

Caring for Potted Mums

Potted chrysanthemum plants are known for their ease of care. Chrysanthemums should be kept in an outdoor location which receives bright light. As mums thrive in the fall, growers can expect their vibrance to last throughout extended periods of cool weather. Routine watering will prevent your plants from wilting and keep them looking their best.

Potted chrysanthemums can also be kept indoors, though they will need to be situated where they’re able to receive ample sunlight. Exposure to uneven light may cause inconsistent growth. This can usually be corrected by rotating the plant every couple days.

Many gardeners treat chrysanthemums as an annual plant, discarding it at the end of the growing season. Some are surprised to find that many varieties behave as perennials. Where hardy, certain cultivars of potted chrysanthemum will return in spring after their period of natural dormancy.

Chrysanthemums are an exceptionally popular plant for use in the fall garden. While the bloom cycle for many other plants has already ended at this time, garden mums can offer gardeners a stunning floral display for weeks until the arrival of the frost. Hardy mums are also quite attractive to late-season pollinators, as they are a key source of nectar. Learning more about chrysanthemum care and techniques regarding trimming mums back will help to ensure that even novice gardeners are able to enjoy reliable, bright bursts of color each autumn. 

Do You Prune Mums?

‘Should I prune mums?’ remains one of the most frequently asked questions among first-time chrysanthemum growers. The answer to whether or not you should prune back mums will depend greatly upon the planting process. Each autumn, potted chrysanthemums can be found on offer at garden centers and nurseries. Already in bloom, these plants have already been pruned in order to produce the desired size and shape during the flowering window. These plants can be enjoyed as container specimens or transplanted directly into garden beds without any additional care from growers.

Where they’re hardy, these mum plants will behave as perennials. Upon their return in the spring, you may notice that the plants have become tall, leggy, and/or may bloom at the wrong time. In this case, learning how to prune back mums properly will be essential. Trimming mums back helps to create plants that are bushier, compact, and even more floriferous. 

Chrysanthemums are short-day plants. This means that the arrival of shorter days will trigger the production of flowers. Long, summer days are the ideal time for mums to create new vegetative growth. This is achieved by a special type of pruning, called “pinching.” Most growers suggest pinching mums 2-3 times each growing season. To do this, carefully remove the growing tip of the plant with a pair of pruners or garden scissors. Many gardeners begin pinching mums in the spring, a few weeks after growth has resumed. To promote continued production of lateral branches, a second pinching is usually best done around the longest day of the year. Some gardeners may also pinch plants for a third time. However, it’s important to note that this may also delay the bloom period by several weeks. 

Chrysanthemums are an ever-popular home landscape plant for late season color in summer and fall. Though the potted varieties range greatly in garden use, mums are actually much more diverse. Large, exhibition specimens are also available to more curious growers through specialty plant nurseries. Regardless of the size, most find it easy to appreciate the diversity among the mums’ flower shapes. One type, called spider mum flower, is especially interesting.

Spider Mum Facts

To those researching chrysanthemums for the first time, understanding the specifics of spider mum care and growth may be somewhat confusing. While bedding type chrysanthemums are extremely popular, spider mum flowers are quite different. Most wish to learn how to grow spider mums due to their use in cut flower arrangements. With an exceptional vase life, gardeners are able to create dazzling displays of these large flowers. 

Spider mum flowers get their name from their unique form. Rather than producing blooms which are reminiscent of daisies, the blooms consist of petals that are long and tube-shaped. Often curling slightly at the tips, each petal appears as if it is suspended from the flower. Impressive, elegant flowers are celebrated for their range of color, as well as their ability to garner attention in landscapes.

How to Grow Spider Mums

Those wishing to learn how to grow spider mums will first need to obtain plants. Though spider mum seeds can be found online, it is important to note that these seeds are unlikely to produce plants which grow true to type. It is for this reason that plants are best obtained by purchasing rooted cuttings from a reputable source. This will help to ensure that growers receive the desired cultivar. 

Gardeners will also need to pay close attention to spider mum care throughout the growing season. Since the plants generally bloom in fall, growers will have the best chance of success where the frost free season is long. Those growing spider mums with shorter seasons may need to implement season extension techniques, such as row covers or frost blankets to ensure successful bloom. 

Essential spider mum facts related to planting include its need for direct sun and a site with well-draining soil. Once the plants have become established, growers suggest pinching the plant to promote bushier growth. If gardeners desire the production of larger flowers, for cutting or exhibition, frequent disbudding may be needed throughout the season. Plants are likely to require staking, as some varieties can grow to be quite tall. 

When it comes to easy growing and general disease resistance, few plants can compare to the chrysanthemum. Lighting up the autumn landscape with myriad colors and forms, mums are a welcome addition to any outdoor space, whether in pots or planted in the garden. Unfortunately, the mighty mum has an Achilles heel: chrysanthemum leaf spot disease.

How to Avoid Leaf Spot on Chrysanthemum

Leaf spot of chrysanthemum is caused by the bacteria Pseudomonas cichorii, which is sometimes carried on the leaves of the plant, so even healthy looking specimens may be susceptible when conditions are right. For this reason, it is important to provide the proper growing conditions and use the appropriate watering technique to avoid bacterial leaf spot on mums.

Bacteria thrives in warm, moist environments, so when planting mums, always use adequate spacing between plants to ensure good air circulation. Water plants at ground level rather than from above to avoid moisture sitting on the leaves. Lastly, avoid over-feeding, which seems to encourage leaf spot of chrysanthemum.

Identifying Chrysanthemum Leaf Spot Disease

The home gardener’s first line of defense is knowing what to look for. Characteristics of the disease are dark brown to black, irregular spots on leaves that will dry to a lighter color and crack.

They will usually start at the base of plants, travelling up to cause leaf curl and blight in both buds and flowers. When spots are dark (when they are damp), the bacteria are active, so avoid handling wet plants or splashing water from infected plants onto healthy ones.

Mum Leaf Spot Control

The use of a copper hydroxide spray may be beneficial in treating chrysanthemum bacterial leaf spot, as bacterial sprays have been found to be ineffective. Make sure to apply the spray as soon as symptoms occur and in a way that achieves full coverage of the plant. Badly infected plants should be removed and destroyed.

There are some chrysanthemum cultivars that are more resistant than others, so speaking with a local gardening expert or county extension agent about the best mums to grow in your area may be an option to avoid planting highly susceptible varieties.

Chrysanthemums are a fall favorite, growing in combination with asters, pumpkins, and decorative winter squash, often displayed on bales of hay. Healthy plants fully flower and remain beautiful for several weeks with minimal care…unless the plants are hit by foliar nematodes (Aphelenchoides ritzema-bosi).

Foliar Nematodes on Chrysanthemum

What are foliar nematodes? They are tiny, unsegmented roundworms that swim in a film of water, according to pest information. Lesions appear and bottom leaves turn yellow and brownish, dropping when infected.

Chrysanthemum foliar nematodes move up the stem, to higher leaves and the process continues. If you see this issue occurring on your mums, remove bottom leaves that are dying and avoid overhead watering.

Treat healthy leaves that remain with a spray of insecticidal soap to decrease the nematode population. If desired, this might be a good time to replant into fresh soil. Nematodes often overwinter in soil and become active when watering begins, especially when water touches the leaves. Dispose of potentially infected soil by getting it off your property.

Treating Foliar Nematodes on Mums

It is prudent to begin foliar nematode treatment before damage appears. Check new plants when you bring them onto your property and seclude them for a few days, away from your other plants. This is a good practice for all new plants and a good way to avoid pest and disease infestations among your existing plants.

Also, avoid all overhead watering of plants and water at the roots when you can. Allow space between plants for air circulation, also necessary to keep plants healthy.

If your plants already show symptoms of foliar nematodes on chrysanthemums, follow the tips above. When spraying with insecticidal soap, make sure the sun is not shining on the plant. You may also treat with neem oil.

If you use a greenhouse for overwintering plants, keep in mind that these nematodes may live on weeds growing there. Foliar nematodes infect more than 200 different plant varieties.

Once you put these tips into practice, you’ll have healthy, long blooming mums for your autumn display. Your other plants may benefit too.

As days become shorter and trees put on their autumn displays of color, our gardens can look sad and wilted. Bright summer bloomers die back and lie down in their winter graves of fallen leaves. Autumn has arrived and winter will be close behind. While the rest of the garden seems to hide and fade away from the longer, cooler nights, chrysanthemums reach their full glory. For thousands of years, chrysanthemums have dominated the autumn garden.

History of Chrysanthemums

In North America, nothing signifies autumn quite like fall mums. As August nears its end, fall mums are sold at garden centers, hardware stores, big box stores, even at some pharmacies and gas stations. As the weather cools, we put our gardens to bed for the winter and throw out faded annual containers, replacing them with the colorful late blooms of chrysanthemums. The autumn landscape is decorated with pumpkins, corn stalks, straw bales and, of course, fall mums. However, thousands of years ago these plants were considered so much more than mere fall decorations.

Chrysanthemum indicum, which we commonly call fall mums, florist mums, pot mums, garden mums or just mums, are native to China. The original mums had only yellow blooms. However, Chinese botanists began cultivating and breeding different varieties of mums before 1,000 BC. The Chinese highly revered these plants and believed they possessed the power of life. They considered it to be the flower of honor and carvings of chrysanthemums adorned their palaces and temples.

An old Chinese proverb states, "If you would be happy for a lifetime, grow chrysanthemums." Chrysanthemums made their way into Japan as a gift from one emperor to another. In Japan, these chrysanthemums were just as highly revered and only nobility was allowed to grow them.

Chrysanthemum indicum was named the national flower of Japan in 910. To the Japanese people it represented happiness, love and truthfulness. Japan botanists also created new colorful varieties of chrysanthemums, but for centuries China and Japan kept these sacred plants to themselves.

Chrysanthemums didn't make their way to Europe until the 1700s. Famous Swedish botanist Carl Linnaeus studied them and found them to be very similar to the wildflower Chrysanthemum coronarium, commonly known as corn marigold. As a result, Linnaeus named mums Chrysanthemum indicum. However, in 1961, Russian botanist Nickolae Tzvelev insisted that mums were not as similar to corn marigold as Linnaeus had thought and renamed them with the genus and species name Dendranthema x. grandiflora. This renaming caused many years of controversy and hostility in the world of botany, as many well renowned botanists simply refused to accept the new name.

In 1995, the International Botanical Congress ended the controversy by declaring that mums would go back to their original genus and species name of Chrysanthemum indicum. However, perennial and hardy varieties may still be sold as Dendranthema, while the common fall mums go by Chrysanthemum. Chrysanthemums are known as the flower for the month of November. In the Victorian language of flowers, they represented friendship, cheerfulness, compassion, loyalty and devotion. It is also used in New Orleans's All Saints Day celebrations to honor the dead.

How long do chrysanthemums last? It’s a good question and one that often comes up in the fall, when garden centers are full of beautiful, flowering pots of them. The chrysanthemum lifespan isn’t a simple number, however, and can vary wildly based on a few factors. Keep reading to learn about the lifespan of mums.

Chrysanthemum Lifespan

So how long do mums live? Chrysanthemums, or mums for short, can be divided into two distinct categories: garden and floral. These two varieties are bred with different goals in mind, and this results in very different lifespans. Floral mums are planted in the fall and pretty much all their energy is devoted to blooming. This makes for some spectacular blossoms, but it doesn’t give the plant enough time or resources to put down a good root system before the frost. It is because of this, the floral chrysanthemum lifespan rarely lasts through the winter. Garden mums, on the other hand, are usually planted in the spring and will bloom all summer and autumn. With plenty of time to put down roots, garden mums can live for three to four years in USDA zones 5 through 9.

How Long Do Mums Live with Care?

Although the lifespan of mums in the garden should last a few years, there are ways to help the process along. Be sure to plant your garden mums in the spring to give them as much time as possible to get established. Plant them in a spot that receives full sun. Prune your plant throughout the season, as this will make for more compact, fuller blossoming, as well as allow the plant to divert more energy to root growth. Water steadily until the first frost. The first frost will kill some of the growth, which you should cut away. Some gardeners even recommend cutting the plant down to the ground. Whichever you choose, you should definitely mulch the plant heavily. When temperatures warm in the spring, pull the mulch back. You should start seeing rapid new growth. Of course, not every plant, even if it’s a perennial, manages to make it through the winter. The chrysanthemum lifespan is only three to four years and while it could last longer than that, it will get more susceptible to winter damage with each passing year.

Chrysanthemums are some of a gardener’s best friends, demanding only full sun, well-drained soil, and regular irrigation to thrive. Also called hardy garden mums, these popular bedding flowers are generally trouble free. If you see your chrysanthemum leaves turning yellow, you’ll have to figure out what is going wrong. Read on for information about problems with chrysanthemum plants.

Yellowing Chrysanthemum Leaves – Poor Drainage

If you see yellowing chrysanthemum leaves on your plants, take a look at your soil. Garden mums that are planted in heavy soil or soil that drains poorly are not happy plants. The plants need well-draining soil to thrive. If the soil doesn’t release water, the mum’s roots drown, and you see your chrysanthemum plant yellowing. Your best bet in this case is to move the plants to a site with lighter soil. Alternatively, you can improve the soil by blending in sand or peat moss to make it better able to drain off water.

Chrysanthemum Plant Yellowing – Aphids

Pear-shaped sucking insects, aphids, are no larger than the head of a pin, but an aphid rarely travels alone. These insects often get together in large numbers on stem tips and buds of garden mums. If you see chrysanthemum plants turning yellow, check whether these “plant lice” are present. Fortunately, you can eliminate aphid-caused problems with chrysanthemum plants by pinching off the infested and yellow leaves on chrysanthemums and throwing them away in a plastic bag in the trash. You can also spray the bugs with an insecticidal soap product according to the label directions.

More Serious Problems with Chrysanthemum Plants

Yellowing chrysanthemum leaves can also indicate a more serious problem with your chrysanthemum plants. These include fusarium wilt and chlorotic mottle. Fusarium wilt on chrysanthemums often wilts or yellows the plant tissues, and no treatment exists that cures an infected plant. You can protect healthy plants to some extent by spraying them with a fungicide, but infected plants must be destroyed. Similarly, there is no treatment for chlorotic mottle. All you can do is destroy any infected plants with yellow leaves. You’ll also want to disinfect any garden tools you use on the plants and be sure not to touch healthy chrysanthemums after handling infected plants.

Whether you’ve been gifted the plant or just like to decorate your entry containers, we all need to know how to care for mums in pots. These fabulous late summer to fall bloomers often last into the first frosts of the winter season.

They are perennial plants with the exception of certain species of florist chrysanthemums. Growing mums is generally quite easy and, with good care, they should last for many years in containers. Although, you will need a few tips on how to care for potted mums.

Container grown plants have different needs than their counterparts grown in the ground. Our guide on how to take care of potted mums can have your plant blooming gorgeously every year.

How To Care For Mums In Pots

Chrysanthemums start showing up in grocery stores, floral shops, garden centers, and nurseries around August. They are one of the more common fall blooming plants suitable for growing in outdoor beds, but also in containers.

If you are growing in containers, you will want some guidance on how to care for chrysanthemums in a pot. Each variety has similar site, soil, water, and other basic needs, but those in planters or other containers require a bit more management than in-ground mums.

Choosing Potted Mums

If you are just starting out, the best choice is smaller mums in 4 inch pots. These are inexpensive and will grow into their container. If you are planting in containers outside, select hardy or “garden” mums. This variety of mums can withstand night freezes better than the florist or gift variety.

When buying mums, get plants with some open flowers so you can determine the color, but lots of buds. Check for broken stems and look at the overall health of the plant. If it is sitting in soggy soil or the soil is overly dry, the plant is not in good condition and may not survive transplanting into a new container.

Even though you may be itching to purchase your plants as soon as mums become available, it is best to wait until things are cooler. The flowers will last longer and the plant will tolerate transplanting much better if nights have started to get cool and daytime temperatures aren’t scorching.

Care Needs

A potted chrysanthemum can last for years in a container provided it is the hardy variety.

Water

Plants in pots dry out much faster than those in the ground. This is because of the limited soil space to hold moisture and the effects of heat and wind causing evaporation. Check on container mums daily. Water mums deeply when the soil is dry to the touch at a depth of 1 inch (2.54 cm.).

If your container dries out too much, place the entire container in a bucket of water for half an hour. Bottom watering potted plants allows the dry soil to soak up the water through the holes on the bottom of the pot ensuring all the soil gets moistened.

Even though mums prefer moist soil, they can fail if the planter lacks drainage holes and the soil is soggy. Ensure good drainage to prevent rots.

Light

Chrysanthemums need at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. If you are growing the plants under cover, move them out into the sunshine for much of the day. Without adequate sunlight , the colors will fade, and there will be fewer buds and blooms. A full sun location is preferable, but they will also fare well in partial sun provided the sun is the stronger late day light.

Deadheading

Mums really appreciate deadheading. In fact, it makes them produce even more flowers. Deadheading not only pretties up the container plant but it makes the plant think it isn’t setting seed and reproducing if you cut off spent flowers. This causes more buds to form as the plant tries to reproduce.

Another reason to deadhead is to keep the mum from sending energy into a dying flower. Instead, that energy is directed into new flower production. Use clean, sharp scissors, pruners, or garden snips, and remove the dead flowers down to the next growth node. You may also simply pinch them off with your thumb and forefinger.

Overwintering

Overwintering mums will allow you to have gorgeous blooms the following fall if done correctly. If you live in a temperate zone, you can leave your plants in situ over the winter. Mulch around the plant and leave the stems on until spring to provide a little insulation. In colder regions, move the containers to a cool, protected location like the garage or an unheated room.

The optimal winter temperatures for the plant should be between 32-50 degrees Fahrenheit (0-10 C.). Mums that will be moved can have their stems cut back to 3-4 inches (7.62-10.16 cm.) above the soil surface. If the area the plant will reside in for winter may experience freezing, wrap the container in burlap, frost barrier fabric, bubble wrap, or even an old blanket.

Make sure the soil is moist during the winter since moist soil retains more heat than dry dirt. The plant will not need as much water as in the growing season, but the soil should be moderately damp.

Frequently Asked Questions

One of the most beloved fall classics is the chrysanthemum. These cheery flowers are rugged rays of sunshine, bestowing happiness just as winter's icy fingers begin to chase away the summer. Most mums are extremely vigorous and have few pests and disease problems but there are a few issues affecting chrysanthemums of which growers should be aware. Of these, insects on mums are primarily mites, aphids, and leaf miners. However, the mum plant diseases can encompass both bacterial and fungal and are more rampant problems. Here are some of the most common chrysanthemum problems and solutions to help keep your mums looking their healthiest and brightest.

Issues Affecting Chrysanthemums

In many regions, the appearance of late summer is accompanied by the golds, rusts, bronzes, reds, and oranges of chrysanthemum blooms. Every supermarket, big-box store, and nursery is bursting with their charismatic fall color. For the most part, problems with these plants are not a threat to their health, but occasional attacks of chrysanthemum pests and diseases can diminish vigor and affect bloom production. Excess moisture is one of the main threats but so, too, are insects on mums who chew and suck, diminishing plant vitality. Hardy mums are one of the most versatile and beloved fall flowering bushes. They are perennial in most zones with a bit of protection and can be divided after a year or two to increase the number of plants. Chrysanthemums prefer well-drained soil but still need plenty of moisture. Feed these bloomers in spring and they will reward you with a fall display of color. A classic first sign of chrysanthemum problems is mold on the leaves and especially stems. Since fall is generally wetter, with lower light and cooler temperatures, mold and fungal spores thrive. Many are airborne and jump from plant to plant. Soil can also harbor spores and infect any plant installed in the toxic earth. Insects are a relatively minor threat to plant health because they are easier to remove.

Insects on Mums

The main suspects to watch for are tiny. Mites and thrips are probably the hardest to spot. Mites may leave small webs, but not all varieties are so obvious. If you want to check for these insects that can distort and damage foliage and plant vigor, place a piece of white paper under the plant. Give the plant a little shake and then check the paper for moving black or red dots. Aphids are soft-bodied, sucking insects that daub their sticky honeydew secretion across leaves and flowers. They can also spread viruses. Earwigs shred foliage and leaf miners leave their characteristic trails under the foliage. Most of these pests can be handled with an insecticidal soap spray or blasts of water to remove the insects. In the case of the leaf miner, remove any affected leaves to eliminate the bugs. Slugs and snails will occasionally feed on the plant’s foliage as well.

Mum Plant Diseases

Among the chrysanthemum pests and diseases that can cause a gardener a wrinkled brow, it is the fungal issues that are the easiest to see and control. The following diseases all leave the evidentiary signs on foliage, stems, and blooms:

• Leaf spot disease
• Rust
• Powdery mildew
• Molds
• Blights

There are numerous anti-fungal sprays that are effective for these diseases, with cultural controls such as ceasing overhead watering and changing the soil being additional safeguards. Destroying any infected plant material may be necessary to prevent the spread of these diseases such as in the case of rust, wilt, and leaf spot diseases. Numerous viruses are transmitted by sucking insects that have no cure. Yellow ring spot, tomato mosaic virus, and chrysanthemum smut virus are just a few. Signs are usually stunted growth and yellowed foliage. If you see these symptoms, you may need to destroy the plants. Issues affecting chrysanthemums can be diminished by proper cultivation, site location, and choosing disease-resistant specimens.

Chrysanthemums are flowering herbaceous plants, but are mums annual or perennial? The answer is both. There are several species of chrysanthemum, with some being hardier than others. The perennial type are often called hardy mums. Whether your chrysanthemum will come back after winter depends upon which species you have. If you aren't sure which one you purchased, the best thing is to wait until next spring and see if there are any renewing leaves poking up from the soil.

Facts About Chrysanthemum Flowers

Chrysanthemums were cultivated in China as early as 15th century B.C. The plants were used as herbs and the roots and leaves were eaten. The plant migrated to Japan several centuries later and thrived in the temperate climates of Asia. Today, the plant is a common fall garden sight and gift plant. One fascinating bit of chrysanthemum information is that its favorable reputation in the U.S. doesn't translate to some European countries where it is known as a death flower. Instead of giving chrysanthemums for special occasions, they are laid over graves. There are so many types of chrysanthemum that they require a special classification system. This is based on one of the most unique facts about chrysanthemum flowers. The plant's petals are actually florets with both sexual parts. There are both ray and disc florets and the classing system depends upon the type of florets as well as the growth.

Annual vs. Perennial Chrysanthemums

If you aren't terribly thrifty and you just use your mums for seasonal color, then it may not matter to you whether your plants are annual or perennial. However, it does seem a shame to let something so beautiful die and perennials are easy to grow and just keep giving season after season. The perennial, fall-flowering form is Chrysanthemum x morifolium and the annual variety is Chrysanthemum multicaule. If your plant came without identification, note that the annuals have thinner, strappy leaves that are not as toothed as the perennials, which are wide and deeply notched. Also, garden mums tend to have smaller flowers than the annual potted variety. Outside of the fact that one plant will die while the other can persist, the question of annual vs. perennial chrysanthemums doesn't matter if you are looking for single use fall color.

Keeping Your Perennial Mums

Even a perennial, hardy chrysanthemum needs a little TLC to survive winter's harsh weather. Potted plants can be deadheaded and installed in well-worked soil with good drainage after they are finished blooming. You may choose to cut back the stems to 2 inches (5 cm.) from the ground in late fall or leave them until early spring. Garden mums are hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 5 to 9, but will benefit from a blanket of mulch in the cooler regions. Avoid piling mulch around the stems, as it may promote rot. Divide your mums every few years to promote healthier plants. Pinch plants back from early spring to mid July every two weeks for tighter, compact plants with a dense covering of spectacular flowers. Water regularly and fertilize in July. These easy flowers are one of the work horses of the garden and will be consistent performers in gardens of almost every region.

Chrysanthemums, or mums for short, are loved by gardeners and florists for their diversity of shapes and colors. There’s another reason you should be planting them all over your garden though: pest control! Chrysanthemums naturally produce a chemical called pyrethrin, and thanks to it, organic garden pest control can be as easy as scattering some mum plants.

Using Mums to Control Pests

Pyrethrin is the best of both worlds-- it’s a neurotoxin that kills insects but does not harm mammals or birds. Insects prefer to stay away from it, so using mums to control pests can be achieved simply by planting them throughout your garden, especially close to plants that tend to be plagued by bugs. To use a chrysanthemum for pest control, plant it about 1 to 1½ feet (31-46 cm.) from the plants you wish to protect. If using mums to control pests so sporadically isn’t for you, try planting a row of them as a border-- it should still do the job, but give your garden a more cohesive feel. If you don’t have the extra room for all these chrysanthemums in your garden, plant them in containers and place them wherever they fit.

How to Make Pesticides from Chrysanthemums

If you want to take your organic pest control one step further, you can actually make pesticides from chrysanthemums. Simply pick the flowers when they’re at their fullest and leave them undisturbed in a cool, dark place with good air circulation until they dry. Grind them up into a powder and sprinkle it around your garden to kill and repel insects. Another organic garden pest control can be made by steeping the flowers in hot water, allowing them to cool, and then sprinkling it on your plants. If this all sounds too intensive, there are commercial insecticides on the market derived from chrysanthemums. Buy yourself a bottle and fight off insects in a safe, organic, and biodegradable way.

Gardeners delight in hundreds of different types of chrysanthemums, often classified by criteria such as bloom time, shape, color, size, and arrangement of petals. To simplify the process for home gardeners, plants are often divided into eight distinct chrysanthemum plant types.

Types of Chrysanthemums

Single – Single chrysanthemums, one of the most common varieties of mums, are distinguished by a flat center and up to five radiating rows of long, daisy-like petals. The leaves, which are lobed or toothed, have a distinct aroma when crushed. Examples include Amber Morning, Daisy, and Tenderness. Pompom – Of all the different types of mums, pompom mums are among the smallest and the cutest. Pompom mums produce several colorful little globe-like blooms per stem. The tiniest pompom mums are called button mums. Examples include Moonbeam and Pixie. Button mums include Small Wonder and Baby Tears. Cushion – Chrysanthemum varieties include hardy cushion mums, which are bushy, low growing plants that produce masses of midsized blooms. Examples include Chiffon, Valour, and Ruby Mound. Anemone – Anemone mums display a raised center surrounded by shorter, darker petals that contrast with the radiating daisy-like petals. They aren’t always offered at garden centers but are often available at specialty nurseries. Examples include Mansetta Sunset and Daybreak. Spider – Appropriately named for their long, curling petals that look like spiders sitting on top of stems, spider mums are one of the more unusual chrysanthemum plant types. Examples include Anastasia and Cremon. Spoon – As the name suggests, spoon mums are easy to spot by the long, spoon-like petals that radiate from the center. Examples include Starlet and Happy Face. Quill – Quill mums display long, straight, tube-shaped petals. This type requires a bit of extra care and may not survive cold temperatures. It is often grown as an annual. Examples include Matchsticks and Muted Sunshine. Decorative – This type consists of short plants and big, showy blooms with several rows of full, curved petals. Examples include Tobago and Indian Summer.

Chrysanthemums, better known as "mums" to their friends, are late-season bloomers that really pack a fall punch in the garden. The chrysanthemum bloom season ranges from late summer into early winter depending upon your zone. In rare cases, mums are not flowering when they should be in full bloom. Encouraging flowers on mums starts with a practice called "pinching." This removes the early season growth but causes the plant to branch and form more stems. This gives more bloom space and, in the end, more flowers to enjoy.

When Do Chrysanthemums Bloom?

One of the easiest, low maintenance plants is the hardy chrysanthemum. Mums are common nursery and gift plants and produce prodigious amounts of flowers in the later season when few plants are blooming. This attractive trait, along with the myriad of colors and forms of chrysanthemum flowers, enhances the popularity of this readily available plant. In most regions, mums will survive outside as perennials and bloom annually. A few easy practices will show you how to keep chrysanthemums blooming year after year. There are over 5,000 varieties of mums in cultivation. They have a wide range of bloom color, size and petal formation, but they also have different bloom times. Early bloomers will be in full flower in mid-summer while late-season bloomers will begin to show color in late summer to early fall. You can purchase blooming mums at any time of the year. This is because growers force them to flower by exposing them to shorter daylight periods and longer dark or night periods. This cycle forces the plant to produce flowers. Traditionally, chrysanthemum bloom season is fall and that is when you will find a riot of colorful mums at almost any garden center and even the supermarket. If you are asking, "When do chrysanthemums bloom?" because they are failing to produce at the expected time, it may not be timing but cultivation that is causing the plant to stay bloomless.

Tricks and Tips if Mums are Not Flowering

Chrysanthemums are very easy to care for and require little maintenance. Wait until spring to cut the plant back. Cutting the plant back will force the plant to produce more branching stems, which will provide more places for buds to form. Some gardeners cut them back to 2 inches (5 cm.) above the ground while others opt for gentle tipping back. Chrysanthemums will benefit from liquid fertilizer in early spring. One of the secrets to encouraging flowers on mums is to pinch them back. This means removing the early buds with pruners. Cut the top growth back to the next branching growth area and the plant will produce more stems and bigger, more profuse buds. The best time to pinch plants is around July 4th, but you can do it earlier. Just make sure not to pinch plants two months before their expected bloom or you will remove all the buds and have a plant that fails to flower.

How to Keep Chrysanthemums Blooming

Now that you have a nice compact plant with plenty of buds, you want to keep the flowering going as long as possible. If your plant is well fed and gets plenty of water, it will have the fuel to produce all those bright flowers. Feed plants in early spring and every 2 weeks until buds have formed. You can also enhance blooming by removing spent flowers, a practice called deadheading. Taking off the dying flowers redirects the plant’s energy to the budding areas. It also seems to encourage the formation of more buds. For those of us with neat-freak syndrome, it also has the added benefit of keeping the plant tidy and attractive. Save your plants in late fall by mulching around them and removing any remaining flowers. In spring you will have new growth and you can start the feeding and pinching process anew for a fall spectacular that will be your reward for vigilance in practice.

Potted chrysanthemums, often known as florist's mums, are usually gift plants appreciated for their showy, colorful blooms. In the natural environment, chrysanthemums bloom in late summer and autumn, but florist's mums are often tricked to bloom at a specific time, often by the use of hormones or special lighting. Sometimes, to keep a mum plant longer, you may want to repot it. Read on to learn more.

Can You Repot a Chrysanthemum?

Getting a potted mum to bloom again is difficult and the plants are usually discarded when their beauty fades. However, if you're adventurous, you can move the plant into a new container with fresh potting soil, which may prolong the life of the plant. Use a container only one size larger and be sure the container you choose has a drainage hole in the bottom.

When to Repot Mums

Spring is the best time to repot most plants. However, repotting chrysanthemums is timed differently because their blooming period is different than most plants. The best time to repot a chrysanthemum is when the plant is actively growing in autumn. Some gardeners advocate repotting mums a second time in spring, but this isn't necessary unless the plant grows so fast that it quickly becomes rootbound.

How to Repot a Mum

Water the plant a day or two before you plan to repot your mum. Mum plant repotting is easier if moist soil clings to the roots. When you're ready to repot, prepare the new pot by covering the drainage hole with a small piece of netting or a paper coffee filter to keep the soil from leaking out the hole. Place 2 or 3 inches (5-8 cm.) of a good quality potting mixture in the pot. Turn the mum upside down and guide the plant carefully from the pot. If the plant is stubborn, tap the pot with the heel of your hand or knock it against the edge of a wooden table or potting bench to loosen the roots. Place the mum in the new container. Adjust the soil in the bottom, if necessary, so the top of the mum's root ball is about an inch (2.5 cm.) below the rim of the container. Then fill around the root ball with potting soil, and water lightly to settle the soil. Place the newly repotted mum in indirect sunlight and water the plant only when the top of the soil feels dry.

Chrysanthemums are common interior gift plants. You may have run across one as a get-well gesture or birthday bouquet. They are also excellent landscape specimens and garden mums, which are the hardiest variety, may provide perennial excellence year after year. Mums require pinching in the vegetative stage, irrigation, chrysanthemum fertilizer, and protection from pests. Plant nutrition is essential to vitality and good growth. Feeding mum plants will help ensure their continued health and a steady supply of those lovely, rayed flowers. Read on to learn when to fertilize mums and how to fertilize mum plants for years of beautiful healthy plants.

When to Fertilize Mums

It is important to provide nitrogen and potassium to chrysanthemums during their vegetative phase. Feed the plants before flower buds form to promote healthy roots, bud development, and a vigorous plant. Start a feeding cycle in March to May, depending upon your zone. The general rule of thumb is to begin after all danger of frost has passed. That way any new growth forced by the nutrients will not be in danger of damage from icy weather. Continue feeding mum plants monthly until June to July or when the plant is forming flower buds. You can also use a slow-release fertilizer applied from March to April that will finish by July.

Chrysanthemum Fertilizer

Some gardeners use a granular application for fertilizing mums. These may be formulated with a 6-2-4 or 4-2-3 analysis. The rate should be 1 pound (0.5 kg.) per 100 square feet (9.5 sq. m.) of the garden bed. Soluble fertilizers are also useful. They are mixed to the manufacturer's instructions with water and applied to the root zone of the plant. For this method of feeding, use a 20-20-20 or 15-15-15 balanced nutrient solution. Time-release feeds only have to be applied once but will slowly release nutrients over a period of approximately 3 months. Use a 12-6-6 if you are applying a slow-release food but make sure you get it on early enough that the nutrients will be absorbed by midsummer. Do not feed again until the next spring.

How to Fertilize Mum Plants

If you use a soluble fertilizer, you can just water in the product at the beginning of the month. Dry preparations need to be measured and scratched into the soil. Follow this with a deep watering to carry nutrients to the roots and help prevent salt build-up in the soil. Container plants should be leached once per month to avoid excess salt in the soil. As the plant grows, pinch off the tips of the branches to force a more compact plant and more bountiful blooms. Do this once per month from May to late June or early July. Stop pinching at this time to prevent removing the new flower buds which will mature by the end of summer or early fall.

Chrysanthemums are common gift plants and can be found as such year round. This is because they have been tricked into blooming by either hormones or manipulation of light exposure. Chrysanthemum houseplants require lower light to force blooms. They can be quite difficult to get to re-bloom in an interior setting, but in warmer climes they should be planted outside where they can get the appropriate lighting and resume their normal bloom schedule.

Potted mums are not the same as the hardy varieties that go into garden beds. They are more sensitive to cold and light changes, but you can find them any time of the year and bloom for several weeks in the home interior. Growing chrysanthemums indoors is easy and requires little special care beyond watering, good soil and drainage. Once the blooms are spent, you can keep the plant around for its deeply etched foliage.

How to Grow Mums Indoors

Mums are generally ready for interior growth at purchase. If the plant is pot bound, you can transplant it to a slightly bigger container, with good drainage holes and fresh houseplant soil. An important tip on how to grow mums indoors is to position your plant inside where it receives bright light during the day but isn't under a street or security light at night. Excess lighting can throw the plant's bloom production off and cause it to stop flowering.

Regular watering is a crucial part of indoor mum care. Water the plant from under the leaves to help prevent fungal issues when caring for container mums. Deadhead if you wish, to keep the plant looking its best. Keep chrysanthemum houseplants where they can receive good air circulation and avoid excess humidity.

In most cases, caring for container mums is a short lived project. This is because they flower for 3 to 4 weeks and then stop. Indoor conditions are not correct to force them to re-bloom and creating the correct conditions is a pain in the neck. For this reason, most indoor gardeners simply compost the plants after they are done flowering. This may seem heartless, but mums are relatively inexpensive and very easy to find.

The plant doesn't have much to offer after the flowers are done except some deeply notched foliage and a nice little bush shape. During the time you have it in your home, it shouldn't need feeding. If you wish to keep the plant around, do fertilize it in the growing season once per month with a soluble plant food and suspend feeding in the winter season.

Can You Keep Mums Inside Over Winter?

Obviously growing chrysanthemums indoors is possible, but the real question is will it flourish and bloom and, if not, what do we do with the plant? Each mum cultivar is slightly different but on average it takes 9 ½ hours to force buds and 10 ½ hours for flowers to form. Add to this a requirement of 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15 C.) for bud formation and 55 F. (12 C.) for flower development. Most households do not have the cooler temperature available nor do they want to live in the dark that long.

You can successfully keep a mum around the home all year long if you wish with very little attention beyond watering. A better option for anyone in temperate to warm zones (USDA zones 8 and above) is to plant the mum in the ground. The indoor plants are not terribly hardy but if you mulch the root zone the plant will probably live, re-sprout in spring and bloom in fall as an outdoor specimen.

At Gardening Know How we receive questions year round about how to care for mums. With some helpful tips from Amy Draiss, one of our gardening experts and a major mum fan, we’ll cover the details about how to take care of mums ranging from purchasing, planting and nurturing to propagating and overwintering.

All About Mums

As gardeners, we think about “mums,” (a simpler way to say “chrysanthemums,”) when summer days begin to cool and shorten. In most regions of the U.S. mum plants that appear on the market in early fall are produced for their beautiful flush of decorative autumn flowers. However, most of those store-bought “florist mums” have not had time to grow much of a root system and often tend to die in winter.

Though they do add rich color while they last and are beneficial for pollinators still seeking food in the fall. Planting “garden” mums in the ground in spring is a way to cultivate sturdier plants that will provide beauty and color year after year.

Garden mums, formerly called “hardy” mums, are hardiest in USDA zones 5-10. If you live in one of the warmer of these zones, you can treat them as perennials by planting seedlings in spring. This allows plenty of time for the plants to grow a strong system of roots before they bloom in the fall. In these warmer climates or in sheltered locations chrysanthemums can return and bloom year after year.

Here at Gardening Know How, Amy tells us, “The best bet is to plant hardy garden chrysanthemums in the spring. Planting early can ensure they get rooted before cold weather arrives, especially in zones 4-6. If you are in a warmer climate, it is also best to plant in the spring as this avoids the extreme heat of the summer months.”

Types of Mums

Chrysanthemums come in pretty colors, including red, coral, pink, lavender, bronze and white. There are several varieties of mums that differ in their shape, size and appearance.

Your local garden center or big box store may offer single, pom-pom, cushion, anemone, spider, spoon, quill and decorative varieties. When purchasing fall mums for decor, be sure to choose the ones with lots of small buds. Plants with tight flower buds will open gradually, making the bloom period last longer.

How to Care for Mums

If you love perennials and want your garden mums to continue to thrive when they’ve finished blooming, here are some tips on their basic care:

Light

A mum grown outside requires full sun exposure, which means 6 hours or more of unblocked sunlight. Be sure the plants aren’t exposed to nighttime outdoor lights, which could affect their ability to form flowers.

To learn more about how to find the perfect full sun location in your garden or yard, try mapping the sunlight making note of any shadows from trees, shrubs and buildings that might block the sun during certain daytime hours.

Water

Always water mums at their base. Getting the leaves wet can lead to fungus and other problems. Keep the soil moist but do not overwater. If the soil is dry at least an inch (2.5 cm) deep, the mum needs a drink. In many areas, rainfall is sufficient to keep them watered.

Temperature & Humidity

As mentioned earlier, in warmer temperatures hardy mum plants grown as cuttings can be planted in the garden in early spring and should rebloom each fall. In colder climates you may have to settle for enjoying the plant until the first heavy freeze, and plan to buy a new one next year.

Soil

Fertile soil that drains well is important for keeping your mum plants happy and healthy. They like moisture but do not appreciate soggy soil, so be sure your soil content has a bit of coarse sand or other qualities that make it drain well. Amy says, “Oftentimes it isn’t the cold that kills mums, but rather soil that remains wet and saturated over the winter. This is why choosing a spot with very well-drained soil is crucial.” Chrysanthemums thrive in soil that’s slightly acid with a pH level of 6.5.

Fertilizer & Mulch

Once your planted mums have settled in and begun to grow for a few weeks, they can be fed with garden fertilizer that’s high in nitrogen and potassium. This should be done during their vegetative phase, before they bud and after the last frost. A monthly feeding of mums until the plant is forming buds is sufficient.

When the plant goes dormant and is cut back, a heavy layer of mulch may save it for the following year as described in the overwintering section below. However, in early spring after the last frost it’s important to move mulch away from the plant.

Problems, Pests & Diseases

Growing mums is somewhat carefree, but they can have occasional problems. Always remove yellowing mum leaves and keep the area around the plant free of weeds. Insects found on mum plants are primarily mites, aphids, thrips and leaf miners. Viruses that have no cure can be transmitted by sucking insects. Signs of yellow ring spot, tomato mosaic virus, and chrysanthemum smut virus may signal that it’s time to destroy the plants.

Pruning Mums

If you’ve planted hardy mums and they sprout back up the next spring looking scraggly or leggy, remove the tip of the plant and pinch it back again during the summer. Taking the new center growth away will encourage the plant to produce more stems below, making it fuller and bushier. When summer starts to ebb, stop pinching them back so they’ll have a chance to develop blossoms.

When it comes to pruning mums, Amy feels “It’s best to remove any dead foliage in spring, and pinch the plant back after the first flush of new growth to promote a well-rounded and bushy plant.” Especially in cooler climates, she tells us it’s best to leave any and all foliage over the winter so the plant’s leaves can help to protect its crown. In fact, one of the largest mum breeders in the U.S. has proven through experiments that mums cut back in early spring, instead of fall, survive hard winters better.

Overwintering

Garden mums can be overwintered year after year. Be sure your mums are in a location where they won’t be damaged by wind. After a few hard frosts have visited your region, the foliage of your mums will die back. Cut the stems back, leaving 3-4 inches (7.6-10 cm) on the plant. These short stems will give new stems a place to sprout from in the spring.

Spread a heavy layer of straw or leaf mulch over the plant but, if you’re in a particularly cold region, wait on mulching until the ground has frozen; it’s better for the dormant plant if the ground stays consistently frozen rather than allowing it to thaw and freeze repeatedly over winter. Amy reminds us, “Many types of mulch including hardwood or pine, straw, evergreen branches or even fallen leaves can all help to insulate the plant over the winter months.”

Propagating Mums

Chrysanthemums can be propagated from seed or with cuttings, or existing plants can be divided.

Be aware that when seeds are harvested from your garden mums, they may not prove to be true to the parent plant, but it can turn out to be an interesting experiment.

By Seed

Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost, and transplant the seedlings when they’re 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) high. Mum seeds can also be direct-sown into the garden soil if you cover them with a light layer of mulch and keep them moist.

By Cutting

Take cuttings from a healthy plant using a sharp sterile knife. Remove a 2-3 inch (5-8 cm.) section at the end of the stem. Cut away all leaves on the bottom inch (2.5 cm) of the cutting and push them into a container of moist peat moss or perlite. Be sure the planting medium doesn’t become soggy. Your cutting will root in a couple weeks. Pinch off the top growth to keep the lateral stems developing.

By Division

Garden mums can get overcrowded after a few years. To divide a mum plant, dig up the entire root ball in the early spring after the last hard frost but just as the plant begins to break dormancy. With a garden knife or spade, separate the outer portions from the center, leaving each section with some of the root and at least a few shoots. Install these new “plants” in rich soil and water them in. This process can apply to containerized mums, as well.

Caring For Potted Mums

A containerized mum can be beautiful on a porch or deck, or even indoors. Living in a pot, the mum still needs full sun and moist soil and careful attention to watering. Wet feet will take it down quickly. If your potted mum attracts insects, use a horticultural spray or neem oil to keep it healthy and be sure to remove any diseased leaves and stems.

The signal for mums to begin flowering is when they sense cooling temperatures. If you’re growing one indoors, be sure your indoor night time temperatures stay below 70 degrees.

Store bought “florist” mums are often root-bound, so it may be a good idea to repot your mums right away. Follow the same rules as you would with garden mums, and be mindful that they’re subject to the same requirements. Amy says, “One of the best things you can do for your mum is to repot it.“

If you want to try overwintering a potted mum, cut it back after it has finished blooming, put some mulch over the top and place it in a cool, protected area like a basement or garage. It might come back next year, but mums sold in the fall often have a short lifetime.

Frequently Asked Questions

Chrysanthemums are one of the heralds of fall, although they are also produced for spring blooming. The flowers come in all hues of the harvest and echo the changing leaf colors. Mums, as they are commonly called, are easy to grow and can be propagated by a variety of methods. Propagating mums can be from seed, started from division, or even from cuttings. With so many ways to propagate it is easy to learn how to start mums.

Easy Mum Propagation Through Division

Propagating mums is fast and easy when done through division. Mums benefit from division every three to four years to enhance the form and flowering of the plant. This is done in spring and yields a spare plant or two. The centers of mums can begin to get leggy and may even die out when they get older. In spring, when the mum begins to show signs of sprouting, dig out the entire root ball of the plant. Use a sharp soil knife or spade and use it to cut the root ball into three to five sections. Each one of these sections can be planted to make a new chrysanthemum.

Planting Mum Seeds

You never know what you will get when you plant mum seeds. They will bloom the first year after planting but may not be true to the parent plant. Growing from mum seeds is easy and can prove quite an adventure due to the uncertainty of the type of bloom. Due to the long growing season required for mum seeds, it is best to start them indoors six to eight weeks before the date of the last frost or sow the seed in spring in a well prepared bed. Cover them lightly with mulch and keep the bed evenly moist. Transplant the mums when they are 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm.) high.

Growing Mums from Cuttings

Cuttings are how to start mums for quick blooming plants. Cuttings produce the fastest mum plants, which will bloom within months. Spring or summer is the best time to take cuttings for mum propagation. Use a sharp, sterile knife to remove a 2 to 3 inch (5-8 cm.) section of new growth at the end of a stem. Pull off the leaves on the bottom 1 inch (2.5 cm.) of the cutting and insert it into peat moss or perlite. The cutting must always be moist but not soggy. It will root within a couple of weeks and then you should pinch off the top growth to encourage the new plant to form lateral growth. Propagating mums is a task that you can enjoy as a home gardener. The variety of methods for reproduction means you just have to decide how to start mums. Chrysanthemums make excellent potted plants for special occasion gifts or as perennials in the garden bed. You can bring them indoors or out for early spring or late fall color.

Blooming well until the arrival of frost, chrysanthemums are quintessential to the fall garden. Vibrant flowers, which blend to create an impressive autumn palette, attract late-season pollinators and serve as shelter to local wildlife.

Growing mums adds interest to your garden in the fall, and although many growers may choose to plant annually, it is possible to overwinter the attractive perennial. In doing so, gardeners are better able to create dependable beds, bursting with seasonal color. Below, we will discuss how to overwinter mums in great detail, including their needs for care throughout winter.

How Hard is it to Overwinter Chrysanthemums?

Learning how to keep mums overwinter is one of the most important aspects of growing the plant. The difficulty at which this is done will depend greatly upon one’s own growing zone. Most mums will be hardy to USDA zones 5-9, with cold tolerance varying among cultivars. While keeping plants within these regions will be relatively simple, those overwintering mums elsewhere may find the process especially frustrating.

When to Start Overwintering Your Mums

When it comes to mums, overwintering begins in spring. As plants situated directly into garden soil will have the best chance of survival, experienced growers advise against the use of pots and containers. Planting at this time, rather than autumn, will allow ample time for root development throughout the growing season. Those purchased much later can also be planted directly into prepared beds, but are much more likely to require protection over winter. Experts note the arrival of light frost and fade of blooms as the ideal time to begin preparing plants for dormancy.

How to Overwinter a Chrysanthemum

Winter mum care starts with the arrival of frost. Plants exposed to consistent cold will have started to brown, slowly dropping their leaves. At this time, the tops of each plant can be trimmed. This will help to remove plant debris, and make room for a light layer of mulch. Among the best mulching materials for chrysanthemums are natural mulch like straw, pine needles, and even leaves.

Though those living in warmer regions may find success overwintering mums in containers, it is not recommended without special care. Dormant plants can be moved to a cool, well-lit location throughout the duration of winter. Provided consistent moisture, container mums kept in this manner should resume growth in spring.

How to Revive Mums After Winter

Growth of garden mums will resume in early spring, as the weather continues to warm. At the first sign of growth, gardeners should carefully remove excess mulch from plants. Those kept indoors will require more effort, with gardeners making certain to move containers outside only when the time is right. Potted plants showing new growth should be introduced into the garden slowly, allowing the mum time to acclimate outdoors. Tender stems and foliage should also be protected from late-season frosts and freezing temperatures.

Frequently Asked Questions