The right lemon tree care in July will have a big impact on the flavor and juiciness of your harvest. These long, hot summer days encourage your lemon tree to produce rapid fruit growth and lush foliage, but they also stress the plant. Too little water, excessive heat, and inadequate nutrients are all risks at this time of year and can affect the quality of your citrus harvest.

Lemon trees are actively investing energy in developing fruit in July. Without appropriate and targeted midsummer lemon tree care, your fruits might stay small, have less flavor, or even drop early. With the right nurturing, though, your tree will remain lush, develop large, flavorful fruits, and even put out new green growth.

The good news is that looking after lemon trees in July doesn’t have to be dramatic or complicated. A few simple and easy tasks will keep your tree healthy through the hottest and potentially most stressful time of the year. These chores also ensure you will enjoy the juiciest harvest.

1. Water Deeply and Consistently

July heat increases water needs for most plants, including lemon trees. There's no telling how long the current heatwave will last for, which means you might even experience drought conditions during July, making watering lemon trees well a critical step. Even established trees can be stressed by dry summer conditions, and too little water can lead to early fruit drop. Consistency is also important as letting the soil totally dry out before watering can cause split skin on fruits.

The best way to water your lemon tree in July is with regular, deep soaking. Instead of watering lightly daily, water deeply every few days or once a week, depending on weather conditions and rainfall. The exception is for potted plants, which often need daily, or even twice daily, watering, as the soil dries out very quickly. Young trees, both in the ground and in containers, also need extra water as their root systems aren't yet big enough to source enough moisture.

To give a lemon tree a good soaking, use a hose at the base of the tree and let it run for up to 20 minutes. For a tree in a container, water until it begins running out of the drainage hole at the planter base. If you’re ever unsure about whether or not this essential part of July lemon tree care is necessary, stick your finger in the soil: if it’s dry up to your second knuckle, it’s time to water.

2. Fertilize to Support Fruit Development

July is an active growing period, and your trees are growing new foliage as well as developing fruits. All this growth requires a steady supply of nutrients, making fertilizing lemon trees another essential July gardening job. Nitrogen is a must for new leaves, while potassium and micronutrients support overall health and large, tasty fruits. Skipping this task can lead to yellowing leaves, stunted fruit, and poor-quality fruit.

You can make this task easy by looking for a citrus-specific fertilizer such as this from Amazon. This takes the guesswork out of choosing an appropriate nutrient balance. Overfeeding can be as bad as underfeeding, so follow the product instructions and don’t give more than is recommended, especially if you're growing your lemon tree in a container. Always water thoroughly after applying a fertilizer.

If your weather conditions are severely hot and dry, delay fertilizing, as feeding a tree during these conditions can stress it even more. Focus on water only during these times and feed once the conditions normalize. If you feel your lemon tree needs a boost, then a slow-release granular fertilizer or, even gentler, refreshing the soil nutrients with a mulch, are better options for a heat-stressed tree.

3. Prune Lightly But Strategically

Midsummer is not a time for heavy pruning, but light pruning of suckers and water sprouts is essential for directing the tree’s energy into fruit production. Suckers are new shoots that grow straight up from the ground near the trunk, while water sprouts are those that grow upwards from branches. Both take energy away from the fruits and also reduce airflow around leaves and branches, so add your lemon tree to the list of plants to prune in July.

This task is easy with the right tool. Use sharp, clean pruning shears such as these from Amazon to snip each of these little sprouts at its base. Check for new growth every couple of weeks and prune off whatever you find. You can also remove any dead or damaged growth in July. Generally, avoid pruning heavily in the canopy, as the fruits need shade from the foliage.

4. Watch Out For Summer Pests

Hot summer weather encourages many pests to accumulate, especially in trees stressed by high temperatures or dry conditions. Catching pest infestations early makes them much easier to manage, so when it comes to what to do with lemon trees in July, checking regularly is a must. Inspect new leaves, the undersides of leaves, fruits, stems, and joints in branches. Common lemon tree pests include aphids, scale, spider mites, and citrus leaf miners.

You'll often see the signs of pests before you see the pesky critters themselves. Typical warning signs include:

• A sticky residue called honeydew, which can attract ants
• Fine webbing
• Tiny bumps on stems
• Black sooty mold
• Curled leaves with silvery trails

If you catch them early enough, pests can often be managed with a strong blast of water from the hose to knock them off. On a smaller tree, scale insects can simply be wiped off. If necessary, move to neem oil such as this from Amazon, or insecticidal soap like this from Amazon, or remove heavily infested branches and leaves. If you continue to have issues, contact your local extension office for guidance.

5. Support Heavy Fruit and Harvest When Ready

Exactly when your lemons ripen and become ready to harvest depends on your growing zone and seasonal weather. In warmer areas, your fruits might be ready to pick in July. In other areas, the fruits are probably getting heavy and might need some support to prevent broken branches.

If some branches look particularly heavy or are bending, use a sturdy post fixed in the ground or a soft tie attached to a stronger branch to provide support. You can also remove any damaged or split fruit.

Determine readiness for harvesting lemons by guidelines for your growing area, past experience, and current signs. Ripe lemons have full color, are slightly soft to the touch, and feel heavy for their size. Harvest lemons by snipping them off rather than pulling to avoid damaging the branch.

If you're thinking of buying another lemon tree, now's a really smart time to invest. Immature trees that won't bear fruit for another year or two are often on sale at this time of the year, as nurseries don't want to store them over the winter. The best deals we found are at Fast Growing Trees:

Lemon tree care in July is all about helping it cope with the stresses of heat and drought while also supporting developing fruit. Watering deeply, feeding appropriately, trimming lightly, supporting fruit and controlling pests will all help keep your tree healthy, productive, and provide you with tasty, fully developed fruit. These steps aren’t difficult and don’t take a lot of time, but they generate big rewards.

Lemon tree growth really takes off in June. As summer gets underway, the days are getting longer, the sun is more intense, and temperatures are starting to soar. Paying lemon trees a little extra attention during this period of accelerating growth is important.

The lemon tree care you provide now will lead to healthier foliage, better fruit development, and fewer problems later. It doesn’t take much to give trees a big boost at this point in the season.

Follow these easy June care tips for your lemon tree – and any other citrus you grow – and your branches will be full of juicy fruit in no time.

1. Move Potted Trees to Full Sun

Lemon trees thrive in full sun, especially during the active growing season. Full sun is necessary for healthy, strong growth, flower development, and fruit. If you grow a lemon tree in a pot, you have the flexibility to move it around to find the sun.

If you had your potted lemon tree indoors to stay warm during the dormant season, you should have started transitioning it outside in late spring. The exact timing depends on your local climate and weather, but generally, citrus trees should go outside after the danger of frost has passed and nighttime temperatures are around 50°F (10°C).

By June, your tree should be ready to move to a spot where it can soak up 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day. Once you’ve transitioned your plant by placing the pot outdoors for a few hours a day, find it a full sun spot for the rest of the summer. A heavy-duty plant caddy, like this one from Amazon, makes moving large pots much easier.

2. Water Deeply & Consistently

As temperatures rise in June, watering citrus trees becomes increasingly important. The soil dries out more quickly and your tree uses more water as it puts out new growth. So in June, it’s time to increase how much water you provide.

For in-ground lemon trees, focus on watering deeply once or twice a week. Deep watering encourages strong root growth and ensures the soil won’t dry out too quickly. Soil in pots dries out much more quickly, so you’ll likely need to water a container tree daily during this time of year. Check the soil in the pot and water as needed. It should stay consistently moist but not soggy.

Signs of underwatering in citrus trees include dry soil, curled leaves, and fruit dropping early. Signs you might be overwatering include yellowing leaves and soil that is wet or soggy rather than lightly moist. If you need to repot or refresh your potted tree’s soil, that’s a great time to mix in some water-storing crystals like these from Miracle-Gro. They help soil in potted plants stay at the proper moisture level.

3. Add Mulch

If you haven’t done so already, it’s time to add a layer of mulch around your lemon tree. A 2 to 4-inch (5-10 cm) layer of mulch helps keep moisture in the soil. Citrus trees grow best with consistent moisture. Mulch also stabilizes soil temperatures during the soaring summer heat. Finally, a good layer of mulch helps keep down weeds.

Replace or refresh any old mulch around your tree or add a layer of new mulch if you have never mulched before. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk of the tree. Moisture trapped against the trunk can lead to rot.

The best mulch to use is one that is organic and will naturally break down and add nutrients back into the soil. This organic mulch from the Home Depot is a great choice.

4. Fertilize for Summer Growth

You probably started feeding your lemon tree back in May, but if not then now is the time to start. Regular feeding helps your tree put out more new, strong growth. It also supports flower and fruit development to ensure you get the best possible harvest.

The simplest way to fertilize a lemon tree is to find a product specifically designed for citrus trees, like this one from Espoma. These fertilizers have nitrogen to promote new growth. Citrus trees also have a particular need for the micronutrients iron and magnesium.

How and when you feed your lemon tree depends on whether you use a liquid or slow-release fertilizer. The latter is best for in-ground trees, while liquid fertilizers work well for potted trees. In either case, follow the product’s instructions. Resist the urge to overfeed. Overfertilizing can damage roots or even reduce the fruit harvest by promoting foliage over flowering.

5. Watch for Pests

Summer is the time for your tree to thrive, but insects also thrive with the increased warmth and light. Inspect your tree regularly in June to catch and manage any common lemon pests early, before they become unmanageable and destructive.

Some typical pests of lemon trees are aphids, scale, mites, and citrus leaf miners. Look for the pests themselves, including on the undersides of leaves, as well as signs of pest damage. This could be sticky residue, curled leaves, sooty mold, or speckling on leaves.

A spray of water can usually dislodge pests and end a light infestation. You can also try neem oil or insecticidal soap, both of which are available from Amazon.

6. Thin Out Fruit Clusters

Depending on where you garden, you might already see fruit clusters on your lemon trees in June. While it’s fun to see all the potential new lemons, too many fruits can actually stress a tree. This is especially true for young trees and small potted trees. Branches holding big clusters of lemons now may break under the weight later as the lemons grow larger.

Thin out a few of the smallest lemons from any emerging clusters. In addition to protecting the branches, this will improve the quality of the remaining fruits. Thinning out citrus trees also provides more airflow, which reduces the risk of rot and other common lemon diseases.

June is one of the most important months of the year for lemon tree care. Regular water, fertilizer application, pest management, and fruit thinning will ensure your tree grows strong and healthy through the hottest part of the year, resulting in a good harvest of juicy, tasty fruits.

May is the gateway to summer. Warmer nights and longer days mean lemon tree care needs to shift from your early spring regimen towards a summer-focused one.

Lemon trees are hardy to USDA Zones 9-11, but they can be grown indoors in the winter and transitioned outside even into Zone 3. Container-grown Meyer lemon trees (which are currently on sale at Fast Growing Trees) are a wonderful addition to any garden and can bear fruit in 1 to 2 years.

Meyer lemon trees produce flavorful lemons that are perfect for lemonade, desserts, and cooking. If you have a lemon tree, keep reading to learn more about adjusting your care routine now that we are in the merry month of May.

1. Transition Lemon Trees Outside

If you don’t live in USDA Zones 9-11, you have probably been growing your lemon tree in a container indoors through the winter. May’s consistently warming temperatures mean lemon trees can begin to transition outdoors. Start acclimating your tree to the outdoors by moving it outside in the shade on days that are above 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 C). Make sure the last frost has passed.

Start slow and gradually increase the time the tree is outside so it can build a tolerance to sun, wind and the great outdoors. Make tree moving easy by planting into a self-watering rolling citrus tree planter from Vego Garden or by placing the pot on a plant dolly like this one from Amazon.

Expose the tree to one hour of direct sun before moving it back into the shade and then indoors at night. After about two weeks of slowly increasing the time in the sun, it should be able to handle 6 hours of direct sunlight which is what it needs to produce fruit. Once temperatures are consistently above 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15.5 C) at night, your lemon tree can stay outside for the summer.

2. Maintain Proper Watering

One of the biggest problems for container grown lemon trees is inconsistent watering. Containers dry out faster than inground gardens, and citrus trees can become stressed and drop leaves and fruit if you aren’t careful to maintain proper moisture levels. Moving trees outdoors into warmer, breezy weather can further dry out the soil.

Water your lemon tree when the top 2 inches of soil are dry. You can check this by just sticking your finger down into the soil or you could use a simple but effective soil moisture meter, available from Amazon.

If you are planning on going out of town this summer, you might want to invest in a smart irrigation system or plant your lemon tree into something like the Vego Garden self-watering rolling citrus planter. This will help keep your lemon tree healthy even when you’re not home.

3. Prune Suckers

May is also a good time to prune any suckers or “water sprouts” that are growing from your lemon tree. Suckers are green sprouts that lack bark and grow from the trunk or larger limbs of the tree.

Suckers take precious energy away from your tree that is better spent on producing juicy lemons. These sprouts are thorny, unproductive and should be pruned away regularly.

Your lemon tree is no longer in a dormant state by May, so you will see these suckers begin to grow and they’ll continue to appear throughout the growing season. Snip them away with a pair of cleaned pruners so you don’t spread pests or diseases to your lemon tree. No fancy equipment needed, just your regular pruners will do fine.

4. Fertilize Lemon Trees

In May, your lemon tree will see increased growth and begin to work on developing flowers that will turn into lemons. This increased activity means the lemon tree will need more nutrients to support its health and fruit production.

Lemon tree fertilizer is typically high in nitrogen and applied between April and September. Regular feeding will give your lemon tree the nutritional boost it needs for the best harvest possible. The GrowScripts Citrus Tree Care Kit from Fast Growing Trees has everything you need measured out and an application guide to take all the guesswork out of fertilizing.

You can also use Espoma Citrus-Tone from Amazon which is an organic feed that also improves soil by introducing beneficial microbes. Yellowing leaves are often an indicator that your lemon tree needs more nutrients.

A little work now will set your lemon tree up for fruitful success. Taking care of a lemon tree in May is a little like taking good care of yourself. Going outside, staying hydrated, eating a balanced diet, and a little maintenance is good for all of us!

April is full of changes as spring gets under way. Lemon trees that you had indoors all winter are springing back to life from their dormant period. There are a few crucial care tasks that need to be done in April to give them the best chance to produce tasty fruit this summer.

Lemon trees are hardy to USDA Zones 9-11, but many gardeners across the country grow them outdoors in the summer and bring them inside in winter. Growing lemon trees in containers is a great way to stretch your growing zone so you can have delicious lemons even if you don’t have balmy weather year-round. Just bring them indoors when the weather gets cold and put them back outside as spring warms up.

In particular, Meyer lemon trees make wonderful potted fruit trees – if you don’t have one yet, they are currently on sale at Fast Growing Trees! Let’s dig into the tasks you need to complete before April ends so you can have your most bountiful lemon harvest yet.

1. Repot Lemon Trees

April is the perfect time to repot your lemon tree. After all its growth last year, it can use an up-potting. A sure sign that your tree needs a bigger pot is if you see roots coming out of the drainage holes or peeping above the soil. Typically, lemon trees need to be repotted every 3 to 4 years.

Choose a new pot that is about 25% larger than the old pot and make sure to choose a pot with drainage holes. Soggy soil will lead to fungus problems and harm the health of your lemon tree so good drainage is key. If your tree needs a substantial up-potting, I recommend planting into something like the Vego Garden self-watering rolling citrus tree planter. It is specifically made for citrus trees and features a self-watering system that prevents overwatering and underwatering. It also has wheels which will allow you to move your lemon tree easily for years to come.

On the topic of good drainage, you should give your pot a soil refresh by adding well-draining soil. You can use regular potting soil and mix in some perlite or vermiculite to improve drainage, or you can purchase a cactus and citrus tree potting mix. Miracle-Gro’s Cactus, Palm, and Citrus Soil mix, available from Home Depot, is a great option for a ready-made mix.

2. Fertilize Lemon Trees

Beginning in April, your lemon tree needs to be fertilized every 4-6 weeks. As they leave dormancy, lemon trees begin to show new growth and need nutritional support to ensure they are healthy and produce tasty fruit.

If you have a patio lemon tree that comes indoors in the winter, the GrowScripts Lemon Tree Care Kit from The Sill has pre-measured nutrient applications and a care schedule to go along with them. Just follow the instructions and your potted lemon tree will thrive all year long.

Espoma Citrus-Tone, available from Amazon, is an organic citrus fertilizer that is great for lemon trees planted in the landscape or in a container. It is gentle and won’t burn plants. In general, citrus trees need more Nitrogen than Potassium or Phosphorus, so look for an NPK ratio that reflects that. Additionally, it should be a pretty low concentration formula so as not to burn your lemon tree. Don’t use a fertilizer that has any number in the formula higher than 8 (e.g. 8-8-8).

3. Move Lemon Trees Outdoors

April is a great time for a little spring vacation! If you moved your potted lemon tree indoors to winterize it, now is the time to begin acclimating it to the great outdoors. Place your lemon tree outside during the day and bring it back inside at night when temperatures dip. Once temperatures are regularly above 60 degrees F (15.5 C), you can make the final move outside so your lemon tree will get plenty of fresh air and sunshine.

Citrus plants are native to sub-tropical parts of the world and are healthier and more productive when they are in conditions that imitate their natural environment. Warm weather and full sun (at least 6-8 hours per day) will help you get the best crop of lemons yet.

To make moving plants outdoors easier, you can invest in a plant caddy with wheels or a plant mover. This adjustable plant caddy from Amazon changes from an 8-inch diameter to 21-inch diameter and holds up to 330 pounds so it will grow with your lemon tree. A plant mover dolly, available from Walmart, is another good option to make moving your lemon tree outside easier.

Give your lemon tree a little love this spring. A new pot, fresh soil, good nutrition, and a vacation to your patio will set it up for summer success!

Indoor lemon trees that don’t fruit can be so frustrating. Those glossy leaves can look perfect, the citrus scents can fill the room when you brush past, but months drag on and the flowers never seem to appear, let alone those zingy golden harvests. When months pass without a single bud, it’s easy to feel like you’ve failed. The truth? Your tree isn’t broken, it’s simply too comfortable. It has settled into a vegetative phase, happily pushing out foliage while putting reproduction on hold.

What your lemon tree needs is a strategic January prune. Pruning lemon trees the right way is a key part of proper lemon tree care, but timing is so important. Pruning when the tree is dormant or slowed redirects the plant’s internal clock – cuts heal fast, and new growth responds quickly. Using the “open center” technique, by opening the canopy and removing excess branches, floods the inner wood with light, redistributes growth hormones to outer lateral branches.

Pruning a lemon tree like this ensures energy is directed to the strongest, most productive branches. The result of this distinctive vase shape pruning? Your leaf-heavy lemon tree will shift into a productive powerhouse, ready to erupt in fragrant flowers and real fruit within months. Here’s how some timely lemon tree pruning can help you kickstart those zesty fruit delights.

Why Your Lemon Tree Isn't Fruiting

Potted indoor lemon trees often skip fruiting because they lack the natural stress cues of the wild, so they grow comfortable churning out stems and leaves. Without enough light reaching the interior canopy, the tree defaults to a foliage-based existence. January pruning breaks this cycle of a lemon tree not fruiting. By cutting away excess foliage, you signal to the tree that it’s time to stop growing up and start growing out – so it redirects resources towards buds, flowers and fruit.

Timing is everything. While indoor trees don't face a true frost, they are still deeply tuned to light cycles. After winterizing your citrus, a January prune aligns with the lengthening days following the winter solstice. This slow but sure increase in natural light triggers a hormonal shift. So by pruning now, you ensure the tree's spring surge is directed exactly where you want it – into fruit buds rather than leggy stems. Consistent annual pruning maintains this rhythm, ensuring your tree doesn't become a houseplant and acts like an orchard.

What You Need for January Pruning

This pruning trick doesn’t require a lot of fancy tools, nor does it require extensive printing skill. One or two reliable pruning tools are all you really need. Sharpness is key, as dull blades can crush stems and invite disease. Sharp bypass pruners should cover off the bulk of your lemon tree pruning. Choose industry-favorite Fiskars Bypass Pruners from Amazon for clean, precise cuts.

For older trees with thicker scaffold branches, a small hand saw like the Garden Guru Pruning Saw from Amazon will offer ample control. Before pruning, check your tools are clean and cut properly. Sharpen dull blades with a sharpening tool such as the AccuSharp Garden Tool Blade Sharpener from Amazon. Grab some sturdy gloves like the WZQH Leather Work Gardening Gloves from Amazon to protect your hands, plus some rubbing alcohol to wipe blades between cuts. Sterilizing prevents spreading pathogens from branch to branch.

Creating the Right Shape

Pruning a lemon tree into an open center (often called a vase or goblet silhouette) is the gold standard for citrus. Imagine a broad crown that tapers toward the base, with three to five main branches spreading outward like umbrella ribs. This structure isn't just for aesthetics. It promotes steady airflow, reducing the humid pockets where indoor pests like spider mites love to hide.

Most importantly, these citrus trees bear fruit on new wood, but only if that wood is bathed in light. A dense center shades potential sites, so the tree defaults to leafy expansion. Opening the canopy allows window sunlight (or grow lights) to penetrate deep into the heart of the tree. The light reaches every nook, flipping the hormonal switch from foliage to fruit. Maintaining this shape prevents weak branches and supports long-term fruiting.

Mastering the Three Ds

Before you shape the tree, you must clear the clutter. Start with the “Three Ds” – dead, damaged and diseased branches and stems. Dead sections feel brittle, appear gray, and snap with minimal pull. Damaged limbs show old scars, cracks, or breaks from stress. Diseased areas will carry canker or dark spots that can easily spread if ignored. Clearing these first halts decay and frees energy for healthy parts. With clutter gone, the tree's true framework emerges clearly for smarter decisions.

You can then target the energy thieves, such as any vertical suckers or water sprouts. These straight-up shoots steal resources and crowd the middle without ever yielding a single lemon. By removing them, you channel the tree’s life force into shorter, horizontal wood – in other words, branches primed for flowers (and fruit). Pruning your citrus tree annually keeps the canopy balanced and productive wood dominant.

How to Prune Your Lemon

Don't be afraid of this process, as citrus trees are incredibly resilient and they will thank you for the extra space, and light. Simply follow these steps to transform your tree’s silhouette from a leafy bush into a fruiting masterpiece. Here’s how to remove the central leader, thin crowded and crossing branches, and master the pinch and snip technique to whip your lemon into that lovely open vase shape.

1. Open Out the Canopy

Start at the very top. Remove the tallest central leader that shoots straight up. Cut back to an outward-facing bud at a 45-degree angle just above a node. This cut encourages lateral growth outwards so the tree grows wide, building the vase shape, rather than hitting the ceiling. This angle is vital. It allows moisture to slide off the wound rather than pooling, preventing rot. Take a breath and step back. The tree should already look lighter.

2. Thin Out Crowded Branches

Move to the crowded areas of the lemon tree. Your next task is to thin out crossing or inward-growing branches that rub or shade the center. Look for branches that rub against each other or grow inward toward the trunk.

Choose 3-5 strong scaffold branches that fan out evenly. Remove any suckers at the base, as well as any water sprouts. These vigorous, vertical shoots may look strong but they are useless for fruit production. Cutting these frees light and air for the branches that matter.

3. Pinch Tips for Bushier Growth

On young, soft new growth, use your fingers or pruners to gently pinch the growing tips. This simple act stops leggy expansion and forces the plant to activate side buds that turn into fruiting wood. It also helps you to create a dense, bushy look. Pinching feels like a small thing, but it will effectively multiply the number of potential flower sites on your lemon tree.

4. Check for Light Penetration

Step back frequently to check balance. Your tree should look open, like a goblet, with light reaching the center from all sides. Hold a flashlight or phone light underneath. If you see heavy shadows in the center, prune more. Once the light floods through to the main trunk, you’ve succeeded.

Fine tweaks along the way secure symmetry and avoid inner shading that wastes energy. Checking from several angles ensures balanced light and circulation on all sides. So keep inspecting for light penetration and symmetry until you are happy.

Pro-Tip: If your growing site is dark in January, don't rely on the sun alone. Position a full-spectrum grow light, like the Glowrium Height Adjustable Grow Light from Amazon, 12–18 inches (30-45 cm) above the canopy after pruning. The combination of the vase shape and supplemental light is the fastest way to trigger blossoms.

Aftercare from Pruning to Harvest

Pruning is a surgical event, so aftercare is essential for recovery. After pruning, water deeply to settle the roots. Follow up with a balanced citrus fertilizer, like Grow More Citrus Grower Blend from Amazon, at half-strength to support new growth without shocking the system. Position the tree in bright, indirect light, and supplement with a grow light if windows fall short. Indoor air can turn dry post-prune, so occasional leaf misting or a pebble tray will help to maintain humidity. Be sure to monitor closely.

New growth appears in 4–6 weeks, with initial buds possible in 8–12 weeks. Keep the soil evenly moist, not waterlogged, and watch for spider mites on stressed plants. It can take 6–9 months for a lemon to fully ripen to harvest, so be patient. Those first blossoms are the ultimate reward for this January prune. If your tree produces small or misshapen fruit, it may be a sign of irregular watering or a need for nutrients during the swelling phase. Yearly vase-shape maintenance curbs overcrowding and sustains the harvest.

At a Glance: The January Reset

Make sure you have a full grasp of the key pruning requirements and objectives. Here is everything you need to know to get your indoor citrus tree fruiting:

• Goal: Shift the tree from vegetative (leaves) to reproductive (fruiting) by opening the plant’s canopy to more light.
• Timing: Prune in January. As the days lengthen after the winter solstice, your citrus tree is primed for a new growth surge.
• Shape: Aim for an open center or vase shape. Removing the central vertical leader allows light to reach the inner fruiting wood.
• Rule of Three Ds: Always start by removing dead, damaged, or diseased fruit tree branches to free up the plant's energy.
• Technique: Use 45-degree cuts above outward-facing buds to shed water and encourage wide, bushy growth.
• Aftercare: Feed with a balanced citrus fertilizer and ensure high humidity to help the tree recover from its surgery.
• Reward: You can expect to see new growth in 4–6 weeks and fragrant blossoms shortly after. Roll on those zingy harvests!

Essential Citrus Tool Kit

Before you make the first snip, you need the right snipping gear. Sharpness and efficiency is key, as dull blades crush stems and invite disease. Make sure you pocket these citrus-snipping essentials:

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Winterize citrus trees to shield them from frost’s brutal hit. Cold snaps torch leaves and kill fruit fast. Nail your prep, and your grove pulls through tough. Where you grow matters, so your climate calls the shots.

Frost protection for citrus trees means making good decisions before it hits. Citrus trees need blankets, mulch, and dialed-back water to stand tall. Weak prep means scorched leaves or lost crops. Lock in these steps, and your trees breeze through winter’s chill.

How to Winterize Citrus Trees

Winterizing citrus trees increases tolerance against wind and cold. Healthy roots and leaves keep fruit rolling strong. Picking the right gear can help your grove to be set to thrive come spring.

1. Cover with Blankets

Frost can destroy citrus, but covers keep trees cozy. Wrapping trees is essential to block killer cold snaps, shielding both leaves and fruit. Covers trap heat and prevent frost damage – frost burns leaves and fruit, halting growth or even killing branches. Blankets or frost cloth hold soil warmth and protect tender parts. Without them, trees face cracked bark and dropped crops.

The best wrapping practices ensure good air circulation and prevent moisture buildup. Drape blankets loosely so wet air doesn’t trigger mold, and anchor them to the ground – not the branches – to allow proper airflow. DeWitt Frost Blankets from Amazon work well for citrus, offering reliable protection.

You’ll want to cover trees when temps drop below 32 F (0 C), typically from late fall into early winter. Pull blankets off during warm days to avoid overheating. Watch forecasts closely and stay ahead of the frost.

2. Spray with Anti-Desiccants

Dry winter air sucks the life from citrus leaves, leaving them brittle. Anti-desiccant sprays seal in moisture and help keep foliage strong to save your grove.

Cold, dry winter air can dehydrate leaves fast. Harsh winds and low humidity weaken the tree, but anti-desiccant sprays coat foliage to slow water loss. Without this protection, leaves curl or drop, compromising tree strength.

Apply sprays in late fall, before freezing temps hit, and coat both sides of the leaves for maximum defense. Wilt-Pruf Anti-Desiccant from Amazon works well for citrus, locking in hydration during the driest months. Apply in November before the first frost, and reapply monthly if winter stays dry. Skip spraying during rain so the coating can stick properly.

3. Mulch Around the Base

Cold soil hammers citrus roots, but mulch helps keep them steady. Frost protection for citrus trees depends on warm, stable soil.

Mulching holds warmth and moisture in the soil, protecting roots from stress and death caused by freezing conditions. Without mulch, fruit output can crash in spring. Spread wood chips or straw 3 to 4 inches (7.5-10 cm) deep and about 2 feet (0.6 m) wide around the base of the tree. Keep mulch about 6 inches (15 cm) away from the trunk to prevent rot. Back to the Roots Wood Mulch from Amazon is a solid choice for citrus.

Apply mulch after watering, typically around November, and top it up if it thins out. Thick layers lock in warmth and keep roots happy.

4. Use Heat Sources

When severe cold hits, heat sources can save your citrus trees from frost. Gentle warmth keeps fruit alive and helps your grove stay productive.

Options like portable heaters, heat lamps, or string lights provide extra warmth. When temperatures fall below 28 F (-2 C), buds and fruit are at risk. Heaters or lights raise air temperatures just enough to block frost damage. Without added heat, severe cold can torch your harvest.

Set portable heaters or string lights under the canopy, avoiding direct contact with the tree. Frost King Electric Heat cables from Amazon are great for small groves. Keep cords dry and always check for fire risks.

Use heat protection when forecasts show temps below 28 F (-2 C), usually from December to February. Turn off the heat during warmer days to save energy and reduce stress on the trees.

5. Move Potted Trees Indoors

Potted citrus trees are a little trickier in winter. Moving them indoors or to sheltered spots helps them avoid frost’s bite.

Cold temperatures hit potted roots hard, putting them at risk for freeze damage. Relocating pots indoors or to covered areas helps trees stay warm and keeps fruit safe. Without protection, potted trees can decline fast.

Choose indoor spots with plenty of light and adequate humidity. Place pots near sunny windows or under grow lights. My own citrus trees sit under the Spider Farmer SF4000 that I got from Amazon, and I keep humidity around 50-60%. Misting the leaves helps boost moisture.

Transition plants indoors gradually over a week, bringing them in for a few hours a day. This helps prevent stress and keeps leaves from wilting. Sudden moves can shock the tree.

6. Water and Fertilize Less

Winter changes how you water and feed your citrus trees. Cutting back avoids rot while keeping the soil just moist enough to keep your grove healthy.

Too much water in winter can rot roots, and feeding can trigger weak growth that freezes easily. Dialing things back helps trees stay dormant and strong. Water every 2-3 weeks, checking the soil first. Stop fertilizing by late fall – around October. A 4-in-1 meter, like this from Amazon, can help you monitor moisture.

Cut watering and stop fertilizing before the cold really hits. Check the soil weekly to ensure it stays barely moist. That balance keeps trees healthy without encouraging tender growth that won’t survive frost.

Extra Tips

Winterizing citrus trees takes sharp eyes and timely action. Spotting damage early and protecting trees from wind can save your crop.

Inspect your trees regularly for signs of freeze damage or pest problems. Look for wilted or browned leaves, and act quickly to prune or treat as needed. If branches are damaged or dead, wait until spring to prune – after the last frost. Fiskars Pruning Shears from Amazon are a reliable tool for this job. Pruning too early can trigger vulnerable new growth.

Set up windbreaks or temporary barriers to shield trees from harsh winds. Use burlap or wooden screens to block gusts.

There’s nothing like a juicy clementine. Many people would like to grow their own clementine citrus tree. However, clementine fruit trees require warm temperatures above 50 F (10 C), and much of the country is a bit too chilly to grow these semi-tropical fruits. But it is possible to grow an indoor clementine tree. Read on to learn how to grow a clementine fruit tree in your home.

Clementine Quick Facts

• Botanical name: Citrus clementina
• Height: 15-25 feet (4.5-8 m)
• Spread: 6-12 feet (2-4 m)
• Sun exposure: Full sun to light shade
• Soil requirements: Sandy, neutral, well-draining
• Hardiness zones: USDA 8-11
• When to plant: Spring or fall

Is a Clementine a Mandarin?

The Clementine is a chance hybrid of mandarin, purportedly originating in the Algerian garden of Father Clement Rodier in 1902. The mandarin is a category of citrus that includes clementine as well as tangerine. So yes, a clementine is a mandarin.

Clementine Tree Care

All citrus trees can be a bit finicky regarding their environment and care and clementine fruit trees are no exception. They require specific light, water, temperature, humidity, soil, and fertilizer to produce their delicious fruit.

Light

Clementines will tolerate full sun to light shade, but to get them to bear fruit they need plenty of sunshine.

Water

None of the citrus varieties like “wet feet” or soggy soil. Like its relatives, a clementine needs well-draining yet consistently moist, not sodden, soil. In the first year, water the tree every 2-3 days. Once the tree is established after the first year, water it whenever the top 2 inches (5 cm) of soil is dry to the touch.

Temperature & Humidity

Citrus trees like warm temperatures between 60-90 F (16-32 C) and are often susceptible to cold temps below 50 F (10 C). Clementine is a bit more hardy than other citrus varieties and can tolerate temperatures down to 40 F (4 C) and frost. It does, however, require significant humidity (above 50%), and should be misted daily or placed near a humidifier when grown indoors.

Soil

Clementine citrus requires well-draining, sandy soil with a pH of 5.5-6.5. You may purchase citrus soil or make your own, incorporating plenty of organic matter as well as sand for drainage.

Problems, Pests & Diseases

Clementine trees are susceptible to some growing problems. Lack of sunlight can cause yellowing leaves, cold temperatures may result in a lack of fruit, and overwatering can lead to leaf drop or root rot.

This citrus hybrid is also prone to insects such as aphids, thrips, cutworms, weevils, leafrollers, mealybugs, scales, mites and whiteflies.

Diseases that afflict clementine trees include anthracnose, canker, greasy spot, gummosis, scab, and sooty mold.

How to Plant a Clementine Tree

Plant clementine seedlings in the spring or fall. They can be planted outside in USDA zones 8-11, inside as container plants, or outside as container plants in cooler zones, but they must be brought inside when temperatures chill.

Outdoors

Select an area that gets at least 6 hours of sun per day. Clear the area of any weeds or detritus.

Dig a hole that is three times larger than the pot the tree came in but the same depth. Loosen the root gently. Place the tree in the ground, fill the hole up halfway with soil, then add water to the top of the hole.

Allow the water to drain then fill the hole the rest of the way with soil. Apply 2-3 inches (5-8 cm) of mulch around the tree roots; keep the mulch away from the trunk of the tree.

Indoors

Make sure to select a container that has adequate drainage holes. Remove the clementine from its current container and spread out the roots gently. Fill the pot partially with soil and set the tree on top. Fill in with additional soil. Water the newly planted tree thoroughly.

Pruning

Prune clementine trees in the spring to control growth as needed. Extreme pruning stimulates excessive growth which will then need to be cut the following spring, so be judicious.

Remove any dead or diseased limbs and those that cross over each other.

Propagation

Besides its juicy, sunshiny flavor, one of the great things about clementine fruit is that it has no seeds most of the time. How does the tree propagate without seeds?

Clementines are produced through grafting or budding to a rootstock. Grafting means taking a scion from a plant and joining it to the rootstock of another. Budding is a different type of grafting in which the scion joined to the rootstock consists of just one bud. Budding is the most common practice for citrus propagation. Rootstocks most commonly used in this way include rough lemon and sour orange.

Clementines are not always seedless. You may find a seed or two in your little Cutie or Halo clementine, but the seed will not grow true to the parent plant.

Overwintering

Bring the clementine tree inside in zones 8 or colder, in the fall before the first frost. Overwinter the tree near a bright sunny southern window and mist it daily.

Repotting

Clementines do not need to be repotted each year, but usually around every 4 years. If the tree has roots growing out of the bottom or top of the container, it has run out of space and needs repotting.

Look for a pot that is about 25% larger than the current pot. Again, be sure it has adequate drainage holes. Either purchase a citrus potting mix or create your own making sure to add sand for drainage and compost for nutrients.

Remove the tree from the existing pot and prune out any roots that may be brown. Place a layer of soil in the bottom of the new pot. Set the tree atop the soil and fill in with additional soil. Water the tree in well.

Keep the newly repotted tree in light shade for a few weeks to allow the roots to acclimate and grow.

Clementine Tree Varieties

There are three types of clementine available: Seedless or common which needs to be cross-pollinated, Monreal which has seeds and can self-pollinate, and Sweetclems which are quite sweet and only have 10 sections of citrus. Cultivars available include:

• Algerian
• Clemenules
• Clementine del Golfo di Taranto
• Clementine di Calabria Fina

Those good for container growing include

• Commune
• Red Ruby
• Tardivo
• Mandared

Frequently Asked Questions

Lemon trees offer deep-green foliage, fragrant blossoms, and canary yellow fruit, making them a popular backyard plant. But if you’re without a backyard or if you live in a cold climate, you may wonder if it's possible to grow an indoor lemon tree. You can, and although growing citrus indoors is not always easy, there are several dwarf lemons that have become popular houseplants. Read on for information about growing a lemon tree indoors.

Why Grow Indoor Lemon Trees?

Lemon trees are often included in a backyard orchard. The fragrance of their showy white flowers is beautiful, and the bright lemon fruits are lovely. But lemon trees cannot survive weather below 22 degrees F (5.5 C). This means that those who live in cold-weather climates must grow container trees that are overwintered outdoors.

Container grown lemons can make excellent houseplants if they have the proper environmental conditions. However, you’ll need to pick the right cultivar.

Buying Container Lemon Trees

If you are ready to grow a lemon tree indoors, the first step is to select one of the dwarf cultivars that works well as a houseplant. Perhaps the most popular selection is the Meyer lemon. The Ponderosa cultivar can also be used. Other types of lemon trees can work if they are grafted on dwarf cultivars.

Purchasing a potted lemon tree from a garden store has its advantages, but they can also be purchased online, such as this small potted Meyer lemon from Fast Growing Trees. The young tree is already established and will fruit earlier—often in the same year you bring it home.

Potting Up an Indoor Lemon Tree

If you are putting the new lemon tree in a new pot, you’ll want to select one that is larger than its prior container. Use a well-draining potting mix, ideally a slightly acidic one. Alternatively, you can add some peat to the mix to help reduce the pH. If you want to mix your own soil, use one-third sterile potting soil, one-third perlite or vermiculite and one-third peat.

Where to Put an Indoor Lemon Tree

You can opt to move the lemon tree outdoors during the summer months if you have a backyard, then move it back into the house in the winter. It is also possible to simply keep it indoors as a houseplant, although it is more likely to fruit if you put it outside in summer.

The lemon tree is not likely to fruit unless you place it in a sunny spot. Place the tree in bright, direct light - like a west or south-facing window - while indoors during the fall and winter. To fruit, the tree must receive 6 to 8 hours of direct light. If you are putting it outside in summer, place the tree in the shade of a tree for a few days to acclimate to lower light before moving it inside.

Caring for an Indoor Lemon Tree

Citrus plants need moist, but well-drained soils. With too little water, the lemon’s leaves will start to drop, so water regularly—but not excessively. The soil should stay moist, not wet. Too much water can cause root rot. The soil should stay moist, not wet. Too much water can cause root rot. Fertilize indoor lemon trees during the growing season with a citrus-specific product, such as this organic fruit and citrus tree fertilizer from Jobe’s.

Around the 19th century, Christians began hanging stockings over the mantle or other handy spaces. These were filled with little goodies and often included an orange. In today's consumer economy, such a humble item might be greeted with as much enthusiasm as a lump of coal. In yesteryear, the item was considered a delicacy and a much desired treasure. Reviving this tradition could help stretch the budget during the holidays and provide a delicious treat that might not be enjoyed every day.

The Christmas orange has generations of appearances. A child or adult finding an orange in Christmas stocking goodies may not be common today, but once was a treasured gift, especially for recipients in colder climes. Citrus was not common, and before modern transportation, it rarely made an appearance in groceries. Most citrus is ready to pick in winter, so it was in season. If one were lucky enough to get a hold of oranges or tangerines at Christmas, it was a special luxury for those living outside of the plant's growing region.

Orange Christmas Stocking Beginnings

There are many theories on the emergence of citrus in holiday stockings. One of the most ancient possibilities has to do with the legend of Saint Nicholas. This is the fellow we most commonly refer to as Father Christmas or Santa today. It was common once to provide a dowry for marriageable daughters. Without a dowry, a young woman was certain to remain a spinster. As the story goes, there were three poor young women who could not afford dowries. St. Nicholas threw three gold balls, which might mean gold bars or gold coins, in through the window at night. Apparently one landed in a stocking that was hanging to dry by the fire. From this, it became a tradition for adults to place gifts in stockings.

Why are Oranges Associated with Christmas

At one time, people were limited to foods grown in just their region. Since citrus requires plenty of sun and warmth, they were not produced in cooler areas. During the World Wars, citrus was not commonly shipped, and if there was a good crop, it would get shipped to the fighting men. Ration coupons generally didn't cover such a luxury if the fruit could even be found. During the Depression, money was tight and only the bare necessities made it to most homes. So it was a real treasure when an orange appeared in the Christmas stocking. Even families with limited resources would often acquire the fruit to delight their children. In the early 1900s, oranges were heavily marketed. Their presence was becoming more broadly available, but they were more expensive than an apple or other common fruit. Leaving an orange in a stocking was a generous and extravagant gift.

Types of Citrus for Christmas Stockings

Home gardeners can grow their own citrus. Northern gardeners will have to select from dwarf trees that can be grown indoors during the cold season. Meyer lemon or a dwarf Campbell Valencia plant will produce after a few years in the home. Gardeners in warm regions with little frost have a huge choice of citrus plants. Oranges, limes, lemons, grapefruit, Satsuma, tangerines, and hybrids would all fit the bill for stocking stuffers. Satsumas and tangerines are the most cold hardy, while oranges and grapefruit will suffer severely in frosts. If an unusual citrus is desired, consider kumquat. Kumquats are eaten whole, including the peel. If truly interesting is the goal, find a Buddha's Hand, a citrus often found at Asian markets.

You may call it a clementine, but that citrus fruit – like many of its brethren regardless of marketing name – is in fact a mandarin. All loose-skinned, cold-hardy citrus fruit are mandarins (Citrus reticulata). 

If you have one of these fruit trees in your home orchard, you’ll definitely want to understand the clementine growing season and when and how to harvest these sweet citrus fruit.

Mandarins, Clementines, and Tangerines

Let’s start out with the botany: what Americans call tangerines are actually mandarins -- they are called mandarins everywhere else around the globe. The term “tangerine” appears to have been a marketing ploy for reddish-orange varieties of mandarins. Today it is used only by Americans and has no botanical significance.

Clementines, on the other hand, are a variety of common mandarins. The term is used to refer to several varieties of common mandarin including Clemenules, which may have been the origin of the name. Regardless of the variety, mandarins are all harvested in the same way.

When to Pick Mandarin Oranges

It’s always nice when there is a hard and fast rule about when a fruit will be ripe and ready to harvest. This is not the case with citrus. 

When it comes to picking tangerines or any other citrus fruit, there is no such thing as “tree ripe.” The fruit moves from immature to mature then to overly-mature stages over several months. The optimal harvest period can extend from November through January. 

So how to determine when to harvest clementines? The only way for a gardener to determine the maturity of citrus fruit in a home orchard is to taste the fruit. What about fruit color? This won’t help you, since the color development does not synchronize with the sugar development. Some fruits have fully colored rinds well before they are ripe, while others are green even though deliciously ready to eat. 

Do mandarin oranges ripen after picked? They do not. Citrus fruits do not change after they are removed from the tree other than to slowly dry out. This means that the taste test is an essential precursor to the harvest. Note that mandarin fruit is often most delicious once it’s hit with cold temperatures, since this releases the sugars in the flesh. 

How to Pick Clementines

The best way to harvest your mandarin oranges, including clementines, is to put on garden gloves and hand-pick them. You can snap the fruit off the tree or, if you prefer, clip them off with pruners. 

Note that the fruit holds better on the tree than in storage, so just because one fruit is ripe does not mean you have to harvest everything the same day. Unless the fruit is damaged by a freeze, mandarins should keep for several weeks or longer on the tree.

Based upon its name, one might think the Chinese box orange (Severinia buxifolia) produces edible citrus fruit. Unfortunately, that's not the case. However, this plant does have many positive attributes and can be a wonderful addition to the landscape. Let's find out why you might consider planting box orange in your yard.

What is Chinese Box Orange

Severinia buxifolia is native to southern China, Vietnam, Malaysia, and the Philippines, where it can often be found growing in thickets and forests. This member of the citrus family is a slow-growing evergreen shrub with thick, dense foliage. 

Like most citrus, the box orange has thorns. It produces fragrant white flowers in spring and summer. These are followed by seedy black fruits that rarely exceed half an inch (1 cm.) in length. The oval-shaped fruit tends to be inconspicuous but serves as a food source for birds. 

This shrub is sometimes referred to as a boxthorn, as the small, oval leaves are quite similar to boxwood (Buxus spp.). Like boxwood, this shrub is highly valued when cultivated and trimmed as a hedge. 

The boxthorn plant has been introduced into Florida, where it is hardy in USDA zones 8B through 10. Although it has escaped cultivation, it does not appear to be an invasive species in Florida. The box orange can also be grown along southern and western coastlines and inland areas where tropical plants are hardy. 

What is Atalantia buxifolia

In 1988, an international collaborative effort was undertaken to catalog and publish descriptions of over 30,000 native Chinese plants. Although still scientifically classified as Severinia buxifolia in other taxonomical publications, the “Flora of China” lists the box orange as Atalantia buxifolia.

In addition, variants of the box orange have been discovered throughout its native distribution range. These variants differ in physical characteristics, such as leaf shape or thorn size, as well as physiological traits. As of yet, these Chinese box orange variants have not been recognized as different species, subspecies, or varieties. 

Additional Uses of Boxthorn

In Cantonese, the common name for Atalantia buxifolia is “tsau ping lak,” which translates as “wine cake thorn.” It's rumored the Chinese use boxthorn leaves when making yeast cakes. This is likely a very localized dish as recipes are not readily available in Western culture. 

Finally, one of the most promising uses of the Chinese box orange is for root stock when grafting citrus trees. Here's why:

• Pest resistance - Although susceptible to root nematodes, the box orange rarely suffers long-term health issues from these pests. 
• Genetic diversity - As a distant cousin to many commercial citrus species, the boxthorn plant has natural immunity against common citrus diseases. 
• Small stature – When left unpruned, the box orange rarely exceeds 12 feet (4 m.) in height, making it an ideal rootstock for dwarf citrus trees.
• Boron tolerance – Citrus trees grafted onto box orange rootstock show a higher tolerance for boron levels in the soil. This allows commercial growers to utilize boron-rich acreage which otherwise couldn't support citrus trees.

The French are known for their delectable cuisine. In France, people take food seriously and often grow their own. A French potager is just a fancy way of saying kitchen garden. In order to create your own, plant French herbs and vegetables from France. In no time you will be able to say bon appétit as you serve your family.

Developing a true French potager is no different from any other garden, but you should include some classic French vegetables. There are many plants for French cuisine, as the country has a diverse palate and gastronomic adventure. The true French chefs focus on the country's local cuisine, which must be as fresh as possible. To emulate their work, having your own plants for French cooking will bring in country grown feel to traditional recipes. 

Focus on French Herbs

Among the best plants for French cuisine are herbs. Without herbs you cannot sample the true flavors of a Franco recipe. A bouquet garni is an herb combination used to flavor many dishes. It is usually comprised of bay leaf, thyme and parsley, but it can also include other herbs such as rosemary that would benefit the dish. It is a tied bundle of the herbs added to soups, stews or sauces, or you can place the herbs in cheese cloth and let them steep in the dish. Other herbs needed in French cooking might be tansy, chervil, savory, lavender, sage, rue, oregano, and fennel. 

French Vegetables

France is known for its regions, each having its own specialty. You can see this with its wines and cheeses, but also its vegetables. While standard forms are available, certain cultivars are grown in defined places and are often award winners. When purchasing these varieties they may be marked with AOC (Appelation d'Origine Controlee). This is a special honor for outstanding quality, flavor, and appearance. 

• Coco de Paimpol-bean
• Cadours- garlic
• Haricot Tarbais- bean
• Tomate de Marmande- tomato
• Lentille verte de Puy- green lentil
• Pomme de Terre de l'ile de Rey- potatoes
• While these are typical vegetables of France, you don't have to have these certain varieties. You should also have:
• Potatoes
• Beans- both string and dried
• Artichoke
• Celery
• Carrot
• Onion
• Garlic
• Asparagus
• Celeriac
• Leeks
• Swiss chard and other greens
• Turnips

Other Plants for the Potager

In addition to French vegetables and herbs, a potager will also sport flowers and other plants. Flowers fill in spaces, beautify the garden, and provide decor for the dining table. They are also often eaten and used as garnish. Edible plants like nasturtium, violet, calendula, marigold, lavender and sweet peas add flavor and color to dishes. 

The potager is a rather informal garden which can also include fruit trees and bushes. All the plants for French cooking that you will need should fill the garden and be easy to access.

If you have ever enjoyed a cup of Earl Grey tea, you know the aroma and flavor of the bergamot orange fruit. No one knows for sure where this citrus came from, but today it grows only in cultivation. Growers produce bergamot oil from the fruit skins to be used as a flavoring and ingredient in perfumes and colognes. Anywhere you grow citrus, you can grow the unique bergamot orange tree. 

What is a Bergamot Orange Tree? 

The bergamia variety of Citrus aurantium is what is commonly known as bergamot or bergamot orange. Its origins are mysterious but may be a cross between citron or lemon and sour orange. It has been known and cultivated in the Mediterranean for at least a few hundred years. 

Bergamot is evergreen in warm, dry climates, like the Mediterranean. It can also be grown in tropical regions. Ivory Coast is a center of cultivation. The trees grow up to 40 feet (12 m.) but are usually kept much smaller. The leaves are similar to those on a lemon tree and the fruits are yellow. Don’t expect this tree to give you anything like an orange; the fruits are very sour.

The bergamot orange extract known as bergamot oil is the primary reason this tree is cultivated in a few places around the world. The fragrant oil has been used in cologne since the 1600s. An oil can also be made from the flowers to produce orange flower water. 

Growing and Caring for a Bergamot Orange

While you’ll have a better result getting usable fruit from a lemon or orange tree, bergamot orange growing can be rewarding in its own way. You will likely be the only person you know to have one. 

The climate should be warm, either tropical or subtropical, wet or dry but with mild winters. It is possible to grow bergamot from seed, but it also grows well from cuttings if you do know someone else with a tree. 

Follow general citrus tree guidelines when caring for a bergamot orange. Choose a sunny spot protected from the wind and provide 12 to 24 feet (3.6 to 7.3 meters) of space from other trees. Provide plenty of water as the roots establish, and use a balanced fertilizer regularly for the first few years or until it starts bearing fruit. Prune and shape the tree as needed, every two years or so.

The allure of growing citrus fruits at home is undeniable for many gardeners. Even those living outside of the outdoor growing range for these delicious fruits may be tempted to try their hand at cultivating their own oranges. 

While long, hot days are often a requirement for such a crop; there are some varieties that are better suited for growth in more “non-traditional” growing regions and environments. Trovita dwarf orange is just one example of an orange tree which can be grown across a wide range of conditions, including indoors.

Trovita Growing Info

The Trovita orange tree is a vigorous cultivar of orange which thrives in high heat desert environments. Grown outdoors in USDA growing zones 9-10, standard Trovita orange trees may reach heights of 30 feet (9 m.), and produce highly fragrant white blooms each spring. Trovita dwarf orange trees, however, are an excellent option for those wishing to attempt to grow the fruit indoors in containers. This unique versatility is due to the plant’s ability to set fruit under comparatively cool conditions. 

How to Grow Trovita Dwarf Orange

Learning how to grow Trovita dwarf orange will depend greatly on your garden. If you want to plant the tree outdoors you will need to select a well-draining location which receives full sun. Gardeners who plan to plant in containers indoors first need to choose an adequately sized pot. The container should then be filled with a light weight and freely draining soil mixture.

Trovita dwarf orange trees still grow quite large, up to about 10 ft. (3 m.). Therefore, it is likely that the tree will need to be transplanted into bigger containers annually. Since you may want to move the plant outdoors during the summer, gardeners need to carefully consider the size of the potted trees and the manner in which they plan to move them. 

Trovita orange tree care is relatively minimal regardless of where they will be grown. Even though these orange trees are generally low maintenance, Trovita dwarf orange trees will need a consistent schedule of irrigation and fertilization in order to have the best chance at setting a large crop of fruit.

Sweet, delicious, and easy to peel, navel orange is a popular fruit found in most supermarkets. The unusual-looking seedless fruit is easy to spot because of the partially formed, belly-button-shaped orange that grows at the bottom end of the fruit. 

Navel orange trees are relatively easy to grow in the warm climates of USDA plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, (zone 8 is possible with extra protection). In the United States, commercial navel orange trees are grown primarily in California, Arizona, and Florida.

Read on and learn about growing navel oranges.

How To Grow Navel Oranges: Tips On Navel Orange Care

Plant navel orange trees in early to mid-spring so the roots have time to establish before temperatures drop in fall. If you live in a very hot climate, plant in fall when temperatures are cooler.

Site navel orange trees in full sunlight. If possible, locate the tree on the south or southeast side of your house to provide extra protection from wind and cold. Be sure to allow at least 12 to 15 feet (2.5 to 4.5 m.) of space from structures, walkways, and sidewalks. 

Navel orange trees require well-drained or sandy soil that allows the roots to dry between waterings. Dig in a generous amount of well-rotted manure, compost, or other organic matter to improve soil quality, but don’t add mulch or peat moss, which holds moisture. 

Don’t fertilize the tree at planting time. Instead, wait until new growth appears in a few weeks. Thereafter, provide growing navel oranges a healthy handful of balanced fertilizer or citrus fertilizer every six weeks from February to September. 

Pick developing fruit the first couple of years. Removing fruit when the tree is young ensures energy is devoted to growing a healthy navel orange tree.

Growing navel orange trees doesn't require much pruning, other than removal of dead, damaged, or crossing branches. This should be done annually before new growth appears in spring.

Nothing holds more promise than a citrus tree full of buds – all that luscious fruit! But optimism may turn to dark disappointment if you see those citrus buds falling off.

When you see citrus bud drop, take a deep breath. It doesn’t necessarily mean that things are terribly wrong. It could mean that nature is doing its thing, but it may also mean that a change in cultural care might be indicated. Read on for the scoop on why citrus buds are disappearing.

Citrus Tree Losing Buds

If you aren’t new to citrus trees, you know that the fruit matures to a much larger size than a citrus bud. And a ripe orange, lemon or lime can be heavy, even dipping the branches with its weight. 

Mature citrus trees can produce as many as 100,000 blooms. Imagine what would happen if every single one of the hundreds of buds on your citrus tree turned into a heavy piece of fruit. 

Branches would break and baby would fall! 

Nature avoids that catastrophe by organizing a big citrus bud drop soon after the buds form. It’s called Post Bloom Drop and 80 to 90 percent of the buds fall. 

Citrus Buds Are Disappearing

Dropping citrus buds seems like a more painful phenomenon when the buds have developed into perfect little fruit. When you see your citrus tree losing buds that have developed, there must be something wrong, right? Sorry, wrong again.

If you have young citrus trees, the sad fact is that most of the little green fruits will drop. But that is normal and healthy. A citrus tree can’t support a crop of mature fruit until it develops a large root system and a canopy to provide it with energy. That only happens when the tree gets older. 

Citrus Buds Falling Off

Of course, sometimes the occurrence of citrus buds falling off is caused by improper cultural practices. One condition to keep your eyes out for is the wrong amount of water. Too much or too little water can cause dropping citrus buds. If leaves are falling too, think insufficient irrigation. 

You also want to be sure your tree has soil with excellent drainage. This is especially important (and easy to correct) when the citrus tree lives in a pot. A lot of people favor a soil mix called 5-1-1, which offers good drainage plus excellent air retention.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and that couldn't be truer than in the case of Ugli fruit. What is Ugli fruit? The skin isn't as pretty as that of other citrus varieties but the flavor is pure joy. Ugli fruit facts indicate it is a cross between a tangerine and a grapefruit. It’s a happy accident that created a hybrid flavor of sweet citrus combined with tart grapefruit notes. 

The Ugli fruit tree originated in Jamaica. Citrus fruits are known to naturally hybridize, and such is the case with the Ugli fruit tree. How is Ugli fruit grown today? Plants are grafted to ensure the fruit remains true. Un-grafted plants might revert to another variety of citrus. The plants can only grow in frost free regions with plenty of sunshine. 

What is Ugli Fruit? 

The Ugli fruit tree grows 15-20 feet (4.57- 6.1 m) tall. It is an evergreen tree with glossy green leaves. The fruits are a tangelo, a cross between a pomelo, orange, and tangerine. Fruits are a bit larger than grapefruit and have thick pitted skin. The skin is aromatic but quite tough and often bears scars, bumps, and discolored rusty patches with some green. Inside is a juicy citrus divided into 10-12 segments. The dividing membrane is thick and fibrous. The flesh is tender and ranges from yellow to orange, and may have some large, off-white seeds. The skin has a strong lemon scent, while the flesh is flavored with notes of grapefruit, orange, and pineapple. The taste is sweeter than grapefruit, but tinged with lemony tartness. Fruits are available winter through spring. 

Ugli Fruit Facts

This citrus was found wild in 1924, by F.G. Sharp, in Jamaica. The Sharp family began growing Ugli fruit and it was initially presented as The Exotic Tangelo. Over time the named was changed to Ugli fruit. It is still produced in Jamaica but also in Florida. There are now also smaller fruits, called Baby Ugli fruit, produced for easy snacking. Ugli fruits are high in fiber and contain copious amounts of Vitamin C, as well as potassium, folate, and calcium. Fruits are most commonly eaten fresh as a snack or in salads. The juice is extracted to flavor beverages. It is even often broiled as a dessert. 

How is Ugli Fruit Grown?

The primary method of growing Ugli fruit is through grafting. They are occasionally grown from seed, but the fruits may be different from the parent plant. Grafting ensures true clones. 

Ugli trees are not hardy and will not survive in areas with frost. They are hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zone 10. They need full sun, well draining soil, average fertility, and plenty of water, especially as they produce fruit. 

Pruning may be done to open the tree canopy, remove dead or diseased limbs, and to promote a sturdy frame. Fertilize in early spring to encourage fruiting. Harvest when ripe, although this can be difficult to ascertain, as fruits remain quite green even when ready for harvest. 

Those who love the fresh flavor of citrus but want to grow something a bit more exotic will want to learn how to grow Australian finger limes. As the name suggests, the Australian finger lime (Citrus australasica) is a citrus native to Australia. Since it is prevalent to specific regions ‘Down Under,’ its care is specific to this native region. The following contains finger lime info for care and growing this native fruit. 

What is an Australian Finger Lime? 

Australian finger limes are found growing as an understory shrub or tree in the rainforests of SE Queensland and Northern NSW, areas of the Bundjalung nation. 

In nature the plant reaches a height of about 20 feet (6 m.). Like many other citrus varieties, trees are thorny and also like other citrus, Australian finger lime contains aromatic oil glands. They bloom in the fall with white to light pink blossoms that give way to finger shaped fruit that is about five inches (12 cm.) long. 

In the wild the tree is quite diverse with both fruit and trees varying in shape, size, color, and seeds. Generally, fruit has green to yellow skin and pulp but color variations from almost black to yellow to magenta and pink occur. Regardless of the color, all finger limes have pulp that resembles caviar and ripens between May and June. This caviar like fruit is also sometimes referred to as ‘pearls.’ 

Australian Finger Lime Info

The caviar-like pulp of the finger lime is comprised of separate juice vesicles that are compressed inside the fruit. The fruit has become quite popular due to its juicy, tangy flavor and unique look. 

There are five registered finger lime cultivars available which include ‘Alstonville,’ ‘Blunobia Pink Crystal,’ ‘Durhams Emerald,’ ‘Judy’s Everbearing,’ and ‘Pink Ice.’ 

Finger lime fruit does not ripen off the tree so pick it when it is fully ripe, when the fruit feels heavy and easily detaches from the limb of the tree. 

How to Grow Australian Finger Limes

Australian finger lime grows on a wide array of soil types in both tropical and subtropical climates in dappled sunlight to full sun. In temperate regions finger limes should be grown in deep loamy soil with sufficient irrigation. The soil should be rich in organic matter and slightly acidic. 

Finger limes can withstand light frost but in cooler regions situate the tree facing north in a semi-shaded area. They can be grown directly in the garden or in containers. They also do well as a hedge or espalier. 

While Australian finger limes can be grown from seed, they will not grow true to the parent and seeds have a fairly low germination rate. Most trees are derived from grafted stock (Citrus trifoliate or Troyer citrange) which is hardier and matures more rapidly. 

Australian finger lime can also be grown using semi-hardwood cuttings although they will grow slowly, and the success rate is nominal. Use a growth hormone to stimulate root cuttings. 

Australian Finger Lime Care

Mulch around finger lime trees to keep the soil moist during the summer months. During the winter, protect the tree from frost and drying winds. Although the tree can grow fairly tall, regular pruning can delay its size. 

Fertilize lightly with a water soluble fertilizer every three months or more often with worm castings or seaweed emulsion. Australian finger limes are susceptible to aphids, caterpillars, grasshoppers, and the fungal disease Melanose.

Anyone looking for a cool, indoor gardening project may want to try growing an orange tree from seeds. Can you plant orange seeds? You surely can, using grocery store orange seeds or seeds from oranges that you get in the farmer’s market. It may take up to a decade to see fruit from your plant, however. It’s fun and easy, and even if you don’t get fruit, you can bring a vibrant green plant into the world with sweet smelling leaves. Read on for tips on growing seeds from oranges.

Growing Seeds from Oranges

It’s no surprise that you can grow orange trees from seeds inside the fruit. Every other fruit grows that way, so why not oranges? Anyone who has ever peeled and eaten an orange knows that the fruit can have a dozen seeds in it, or even more.

The bigger news is that most seeds from oranges can grow into plants; you can even grow store bought orange seeds. That doesn’t mean you’ll necessarily succeed the first time, but you probably will over time.

Can You Plant Orange Seeds?

It may be hard to believe that the seeds you pile up as you are consuming an orange are potential orange trees. It’s true though, even grocery store orange seeds, planted correctly, have a good chance of growing if you plant them right. The seeds from sweet oranges usually come true from seed, producing plants like the parent tree, but “Temple” and “Pomelo” are two varieties that won’t.

The first step is preparing the seeds for planting. You’ll want to select plump, whole, healthy seeds, then clean off any pieces of orange on them. Soak the seeds in a bowl of tepid water for 24 hours to assist in germination.

Orange Tree from Seeds

Once the seeds are cleaned and have been soaked, it is time to plant them. If you live in a warm climate like USDA plant hardiness zones 10 or 11, you can plant the seeds outside. Those in cooler regions can plant in pots indoors.

In either case, grow your store-bought orange seeds in well-drained soil. If you are growing them in pots, use small containers with at least two drain holes per pot. Fill the pots with soil or sterile potting mix made up of equal parts milled peat and small grain perlite. Press two seeds into the surface of the soil in each pot, then cover them lightly with the soil or potting mix. 

Keep the soil moist and the pots in a warm spot until the seeds sprout. Germination can occur within a week, but it may take several weeks. Each seed may produce up to three sprouts, and you should prune out the weakest. Transplant the healthiest sprouts into larger pots filled with citrus formula potting soil and place them where they get direct sun. Water and fertilize with citrus fertilizer and watch your new plants grow.

Anyone growing orange trees appreciates both the fragrant spring blossoms and the sweet, juicy fruit. You may not know what to do if you see oranges and flowers at the same time on the tree, however. Can you harvest from a flowering orange tree? Should you allow both waves of fruit crops to come to orange harvest? That depends on whether they are overlapping orange crops as opposed to off-bloom fruit.

Orange Fruit and Flowers

Deciduous fruit trees bear one crop a year. Take apple trees, for example. They produce white blossoms in spring that develop into tiny fruit. Over the season those apples grow and mature until at last autumn comes and they are ready for harvest. In autumn, the leaves fall, and the tree goes dormant until the following spring.

Orange trees also produce blossoms that grow into developing fruit. Orange trees are evergreen though, and some varieties in certain climates will produce fruit all year long. That means a tree may have oranges and blossoms at the same time. What’s a gardener to do?

Can You Harvest from a Flowering Orange Tree?

You are more likely to see both orange fruit and flowers on Valencia orange trees than on other varieties because of their long ripening season. Valencia oranges sometimes take 15 months to ripen, which means that they are quite likely to have two crops on the tree at the same time.

Navel oranges only take 10 to 12 months to mature, but the fruit can hang on the trees for weeks after ripening. So, it’s not unusual to see a navel orange tree flowering and setting fruit while the branches are hung with mature oranges. There is no reason to remove the maturing fruit in these cases. Harvest fruit as it ripens.

Flowering Orange Tree Harvest

In other cases, an orange tree blooms at its usual time in late winter, then grows a few more flowers during late spring, called “off-bloom fruit.” The oranges produced from this second wave may be of inferior quality.

Commercial growers strip off-bloom fruit from their trees in order to allow the orange tree to focus energy on the main crop. This also forces the tree back to its normal schedule of flowering and fruiting.

If your orange blossoms appear to be a late wave of off-bloom fruit, it may be a good idea to remove them. Those late oranges could interfere with your tree’s regular bloom time and affect next winter’s crop.

Size matters – at least when it comes to oranges. Orange trees are ornamental, with their rich foliage and frothy blossoms, but most gardeners who have orange trees are most interested in the fruit. If you’ve gone to all the trouble to plant and nurture an orange tree in your home orchard, you are going to be disappointed if your fruit are consistently tiny.

There are a variety of potential causes for small fruit on orange trees. Read on for an overview of causes of your tree’s small orange problem.

Why Orange Tree Has Small Fruit

If your orange tree has small fruit early in the season, the situation may be normal. These citrus trees are known for dropping a number of tiny fruits early on when the tree has produced too many. However, if the oranges that mature on the tree are also undersized, you have a small orange problem. The likely causes of small fruit on orange trees includes nutrient stress, water stress, and insect pests or infection.

Nutrients and Small Oranges

A deficiency in some nutrients can cause an orange tree stress, which in turn, can cause a small orange problem. One likely culprit is a zinc deficiency. When citrus trees don’t get enough zinc, the leaves develop uneven green bands along the veins. Leaf growth can be affected, and fruit can also be discolored and small.

To address this problem, apply a micronutrient spray in spring and again at the end of summer. These sprays contain iron, zinc, and manganese.

Small Fruit on Orange Trees from Irrigation

Every tree needs regular irrigation in order to thrive. This is especially true when the tree produces juicy fruit like oranges. Inadequate or improper water can stress the tree and cause small fruit.

Even watering every day may not be enough if you don’t do it right. Citrus trees need to have their entire root system irrigated. The roots can extend 2 feet (61 cm.) deep and several feet (1 m.) beyond the canopy. When you irrigate, wait until the top 3 inches (8 cm.) are dry, then water thoroughly enough to get a drink to all of the roots.

Insect Pests and Small Orange Problem

One of the insect pests that attack orange trees are citrus rust mites. There are several types of these mites that damage the fruit, including causing small fruit on orange trees. They also may cause premature fruit drop and leaf loss. Look for dull, bronzed leaves and leaves with necrotic spots. Miticide applications annually can help prevent this issue.

If your mature oranges are small, the problem might be caused indirectly by leafhoppers. These insect pests can spread the pathogen Spiroplasma citri that can lead to a disease called Stubborn disease. This disease can cause an orange tree to bear no fruit or abnormally small fruit. The orange fruit may be lopsided with a green blossom end. The only remedy is to remove and destroy the trees.

Another pest that indirectly causes small oranges in orchards is the melon aphid. Its feeding causes the tristeza disease complex. Look for light green leaves, early leaf drop, and a heavy crop of small oranges. The only control for this infection is preventing it by taking care to control aphid populations.

Fans of the quirky and unusual will love the Eureka pink lemon tree (Citrus limon 'Variegated Pink'). This little oddity produces fruit that will make you the host/hostess of the day at cocktail hour. Variegated pink lemon plants are beautiful and unique versions of the standard lemon tree. Their skin and flesh have a fascinating characteristic, but the tutti-frutti flavor makes the plant a true stand out. Keep reading for tips on how to grow variegated pink lemon.

What is a Eureka Pink Lemon Tree?

Variegated pink Eureka lemon is an ornamental treasure, both for its foliage and its fruit. The flesh of the lemon looks like a pink grapefruit; however, it doesn't yield pink juice. The juice is clear with the ghost of pink in it and has an amazingly mild flavor. You could almost eat one of these fruits out of hand without excessive puckering.

The variegated pink Eureka lemon tree is a medium sized citrus that translates well to container growing. It is suitable for gardeners in USDA zones 8 through 11 and was discovered around 1930. Northern gardeners can grow it in a container on casters and move it inside for winter.

The leaves are striped with cream and soft green, while the fruit has classic yellow skin but bearing stripes of green vertically at intervals. Cut one of the fruits open and a gentle pink flesh meets the eye. Older fruits lose the striping, so it's best to harvest the fruit while young.

How to Grow Variegated Pink Lemon

The variegated pink Eureka lemon tree practically grows itself! Start with rich, loose soil that drains well in a site that will get at least eight hours of sunshine daily. Trees are sold at two to three years of age. If you wish to plant in a container, choose one that is at least 16 inches (41 cm.) wide.

Incorporating small to medium bark helps increase drainage. For in-ground plants, loosen soil to twice the depth and width of the root ball. Back fill with just enough loose dirt so the plant sits even with the soil. Tease out the roots gently and set the plant in the hole, backfilling around the roots. Water in well. Keep well-watered as the plant adapts.

Variegated Pink Lemon Care

You should prune the pink Eureka every year. In the first years, prune to retain five to six stout bearing limbs. Remove smaller growth on the interior to promote air flow. Remove dead and diseased plant material immediately. Watch for pests and use appropriate treatments.

Feed the plant in late winter to early spring with a citrus specific fertilizer. Water the plant weekly, or more in extreme heat.

Harvest fruits when stripy and tangy or wait until the stripes disappear and reap a more mellow lemon. This is a very attractive and adaptable tree that will add ornamental interest to your landscape and your kitchen.

Lemon trees produce marvelous fruit that is equally at home in sweet and savory recipes. The perfect juicy lemon can be the one simple ingredient that puts the “wow” factor into a dish, but what happens if your lemons have gone soft? Lemons may get soft before they are ripe – be it soft lemons on a tree or soft lemon fruit that occurs during storage. Of course, the question you may be asking is “Why are my lemons soft?”

Why are My Lemons Soft?

Understanding why you may have soft lemons means understanding how lemons ripen. Here’s the thing, lemons may be bright yellow before they are ready to eat, or they may still be green but perfectly juicy and citrusy inside. This, of course, means that the ripeness of lemons isn’t easy to decipher based on color alone.

While size is somewhat of an indicator, the best way to tell if a lemon is ready to eat is to taste it. Additionally, lemons can live on a tree for several months without suffering any adverse effects, but wait too long to pick them and you may notice the lemons have gone soft.

So, there is a line not to cross with regards to picking ripe lemons. Lemons do not ripen further once picked and, yet, left too long on the tree you get soft lemon fruit.

Additional Reasons for Soft Lemons on a Tree

Another reason for finding soft lemons on a tree may have to do with neglect, specifically with container grown lemon trees. Container grown lemons will dry out faster than those planted directly into the ground, especially if planted in terra cotta pots. A glazed pot will help the tree retain water up to a point, but when summer is at its peak and temperatures soar, the tree will need extra irrigation. If you forget to water this citrus tree, you will end up with dehydrated, soft lemon fruit.

Soft lemons may also be attributed to disease. There are a number of diseases that may result in soft lemon fruit, especially if the lemons get soft before they are ripe. This softness is usually accompanied by other symptoms such as brown spots, mold, or mildew of some type.

Can You Use Soft Lemons?

If you have soft lemon fruit, you’re probably wondering if it is still edible. The short answer is no, but there is a caveat. If there is no mold on the lemon and it still smells fresh and citrusy, it is probably safe to use it. It should probably only be used in cooking; however, and not as fresh lemon fruit or juice.

That said, it is always better to err on the side of caution. If your lemons have gone soft, use them instead for household cleaning projects or slice and place them into the garbage disposal to freshen it up.

Are citrus leaves edible? Technically, eating orange and lemon leaves is fine because the leaves aren’t toxic as long as they haven’t been treated with pesticides or other chemicals.

While citrus leaves smell fabulous, most people aren’t crazy about their bitter taste and fibrous texture, however, they convey delicious flavor and aroma to a variety of dishes, especially orange and lemon leaves. Take a look at a few of these ideas for using lemon leaves and other citrus.

How Can You Eat Citrus Leaves?

Citrus leaves are often used to wrap meatballs, chicken breasts, roasted pork, or seafood, which are then secured with a toothpick and grilled, steamed, or roasted. Orange leaf uses also include wrapping the leaves around chunks of smoked mozzarella, gouda, or other savory cheeses. Toss a citrus leaf into soups, sauces, or curries.

Using lemon leaves is much like using bay leaves, often with spices such as cloves or cinnamon. Citrus leaves pair well in salads or desserts with fruits such as pineapple or mango. They also make a fabulous garnish for lemony or orange-flavored desserts.

Both orange and lemon leaf uses can include hot, tangy tea. Crush the leaves and add them to a pot of boiling water. Let them boil for five minutes, cool, strain, and serve. Similarly, add young, tender leaves to hot cider, mulled wine, or hot toddies. You can even infuse citrus leaves in vinegar or olive oil.

Eating Orange and Lemon Leaves: Getting Fresh Leaves

Citrus leaves can be dried, but the leaves can be bitter and are much better used fresh. If you don’t live in a tropical climate, you can always grow a citrus tree indoors.

Meyer lemon, calamondin oranges, and other dwarf varieties are popular for indoor growing. You may need fluorescent bulbs or grow lights during the winter, as citrus trees require plenty of bright sunlight. Average temps of about 65 degrees F. (18 C.) are ideal.

Citrus canker is a financially devastating disease that has been eradicated from the citrus market a couple of times only to return again. During past eradication attempts, thousands of trees were destroyed. Today, mass eradication has been deemed unfeasible, but there is still a quarantine regarding shipping or taking citrus across state lines. So, what exactly is citrus canker? Read on to learn about citrus canker symptoms and how to treat the disease should it appear in the home garden.

What is Citrus Canker?

Citrus canker goes way back to its discovery in Texas in 1910 and into Florida in 1914. It was introduced on seedlings imported from Japan. It is caused by the bacterium Xanthomonas citri and likely originated in southern Asia. The disease can now be found in Japan, the Middle East, central and southern Africa, and Central and South America.

This bacterium is extremely contagious and is fostered when there is steady rain combined with high temperatures. Both rainwater and overhead irrigation spread the bacteria from plant to plant and is then further spread by wind, birds and animals, people, and machinery.

Asian leaf miners also play a part in the spread of citrus canker. They do not act as vectors but rather cultivate infection and spread of the disease through damage caused in the foliage via feeding.

Citrus Canker Symptoms

The initial symptoms of citrus canker are raised lesions that can be found on both sides of the leaf. They have a crater-like appearance surrounded by concentric circles. They may have a water-soaked margin and a corky texture. As the disease progresses, the lesions may be surrounded by a yellow halo.

Further into the infection, these halos become shot holes. You may see fungi (white fuzz) and fruiting bodies (black dots) on older lesions as well. The exact look of the disease varies depending upon the citrus tree variety and the length of time the tree has been infected.

How to Treat Citrus Canker

During initial infections in the United States, the only method available for treating citrus canker was to burn infected trees, an effort first waged by growers and then taken over by the agricultural state departments. Rigorous citrus canker controls were instigated wherein infected trees were not only destroyed, but all green wood trees were removed within a 50 foot (15 m.) radius of those infected. The disease was finally declared eradicated in 1933 at a cost of $6.5 million!

Today, with regards to treating citrus canker via chemicals, worldwide the disease is managed with preventive copper-based bactericides. This is generally used in conjunction with cultural practices such as pruning and defoliation of diseased summer and fall shoots and the use of windbreaks. Pruning is also done in the dry season when conditions are less favorable for the spread of the bacteria.

Other citrus canker control methods include the use of resistant citrus varieties and the introduction of a USDA quarantine program with restrictions on taking and bringing fruit into various states. Eradication has been deemed unfeasible due to a number of factors, primarily the cost and general uproar by non-commercial growers.

Growing oranges and other citrus can be a fun hobby for the home gardener, but it can also become derailed by disease. Make sure you know some of the main orange disease symptoms so that you can catch and manage problems early and still get a great harvest of fruit.

Diseases in Orange Trees

There are several common diseases that can impact citrus trees and that are caused by fungi, bacteria, or pests. Keep a close eye on your trees and look for the characteristic signs that you have sick orange trees. When you know the symptoms you can quickly diagnose and manage a particular disease.

• Greasy spot – Greasy spot is fungal infection that causes dark, greasy-looking spots on leaves, leaf drop, and reduced tree vigor. Fruits may have black specks.
• Citrus scab – Warty-looking scabs appear on fruit, twigs, and leaves of trees affected with scab. Look for conical growths on leaves first.
• Citrus canker – This disease affects all citrus and is caused by bacteria. Look for lesions of dead tissue on leaves, surrounded by yellow and dark brown lesions on fruit. Severe infection causes dieback, defoliation, and early fruit drop.
• Melanose – Melanose causes raised, rough brown lesions on leaves and streaking patterns on the fruit.
• Root rot – Both armillaria and phytophthora can cause citrus root rot. Above ground, look for wilting of leaves and a thin canopy for the former and yellowing leaves for the latter. In each case, look at the roots for signs of rot and disease.
• Citrus greening – Yellowing leaves can be a nutritional deficiency, but it can also be caused by the destructive citrus greening disease. Look for yellowing patterns, small upright leaves, leaf drop, and dieback. Fruits will be small and uneven with a bitter taste.
• Sooty canker or mold – Both sooty canker disease and sooty mold can lead to limb dieback. The bark peels away, revealing a sooty black fungus.
• Stubborn disease – Likely caused by a virus, there is no known control for citrus stubborn disease. It causes fruit to grow small and lopsided. Leaves are small and tree growth stunted.

Treating Orange Tree Diseases

Knowing how to treat a diseased orange tree depends on diagnosis. If you aren’t sure what is affecting your tree, contact your local extension office for information and assistance. Some of these diseases can be treated, while others require that you remove the tree and start over again.

Prevention is always best, which means being aware of diseases in your local area. Provide your orange trees with the best possible conditions because trees that are healthy and vigorous are less susceptible to disease. Especially important is providing enough water but ensuring good drainage too.

Practice good hygiene to prevent spread of disease by cleaning up debris regularly and disinfecting pruning shears and other equipment.

If you grow citrus fruits on a few trees in the home landscape, you may be familiar with citrus scab symptoms. If not, you may ask, what is citrus scab? It is a fungal disease that results in brownish, warty scabs that appear on the rind and, while it does not make the fruit inedible, it does reduce marketability in most cases.

Citrus Scab Symptoms

Raised, spongy pustules start out a pinkish color and become grayish, then brown. Citrus scab affects virtually all citrus types and also appears on leaves, stems, and twigs. According to citrus scab info, warts are more raised on some fruits and flattened on others. Fruits are only vulnerable during the first few weeks of their development. A similar disease, called sweet orange scab, may affect fruits in combination with citrus scab.

If you grow citrus for your family or to sell it in the market, you’ll want to apply citrus scab control to get rid of the ugly warts before development. It is a result of the fungal pathogen Elsinoe fawcetti. Spores of the pathogen are spread by splashing water and wind-driven rain. Even if this has not yet appeared in your orchard, it is prudent to be familiar with symptoms and control.

Treating Citrus Scab Disease

Check the underside of leaves and small twigs for raised pustules that may appear before bloom of your fruit trees. The pathogen becomes active in just a short time following wet conditions and temperatures between 68 and 73 degrees F. (20-23 C.). Sources say it can develop in just one to four hours. About eleven varieties of citrus tree act as hosts for this fungal disease.

Treating citrus scab disease is best accomplished with the use of fungicides and well-timed sprays. The first treatment should be applied before bloom. Some proven to be effective treatments include a spray when blooms are partially open, about 25% of blooms. Don’t use a copper-based fungicide for the first spray, but these are most effective for those following the first initial treatment. Spray again at petal-fall and then two to three weeks later.

Learning how to get rid of citrus scab is necessary for fruits you may market and especially those you feed your family.

Gardeners often assume that pruning citrus trees is much the same as pruning regular fruit trees, but citrus tree pruning is actually very different for a variety of reasons. For starters, citrus wood is tough, so it can withstand heavier loads of fruit. Additionally, pruning the center of the tree isn’t as critical because citrus trees are capable of producing fruit in less than optimum sunlight. However, that doesn’t mean that you can get away without pruning citrus trees. Let’s explore the basics of citrus tree pruning.

How and When to Prune Citrus Trees

Major citrus tree pruning, which controls the size of the tree, should be done after risk of freeze has passed but well in advance of summer heat. Otherwise, uncontrolled growth results in a tree that is less vigorous and uses water less efficiently. You may need to prune the center of the tree if it is excessively dark and no fruit is produced in that area. Maintenance pruning, which involves removal of dead or weak branches, as well as branches that rub or cross other branches, can be done any time of year. Removal of suckers should be done frequently – as often as once every month.

Trimming Citrus Water Sprouts

Water sprouts, also known as suckers, pop up frequently, especially during the first few years. It’s best to remove suckers as they appear; otherwise, they sap energy from the tree and the thorns make harvest difficult. If suckers produce fruit, it is usually bitter and unpalatable. Experts advise removing water sprouts from the lower 10 to 12 inches (25.5-30.5 cm.) of the tree. Often, suckers are easily snapped off by hand and doing so won’t damage the tree. However, if you allow them to get too large, you’ll need a pair of hand pruners. Be sure the pruners are sharp so they create a clean, even cut.

Papedas may look like something you would find delicious, but you might be terribly wrong. What are papedas? They are the ancestors of many of our common citrus fruits. Papeda fruits are always edible, but sometimes they are bitter and nearly unpalatable. However, some types of papeda make excellent rootstocks for modern citrus trees. Read more about these citrus grandparents and how they are used.

What are Papedas?

Papeda citrus trees are native to tropical Asia. The plants are slow growing and produce bitter fruits which have little commercial use. They, along with pomelo and citron, are the ancestors of most of our current citrus species. Some of the trees have ornamental value, others have rootstock or breeding purposes, and still others are used as flavoring agents. Although papedas grow in tropical regions, they are actually one of the more frost tolerant of the citrus trees. Most papeda citrus trees are small, thorny, and produce thick-skinned, barely juicy fruits. Most papeda flowers are small with the exception of the Ichang papeda. Are papedas edible? You can certainly eat the fruit and it won't hurt you, but the sour bitterness and tough skin along with the dry, pulpy flesh are sure to prevent repeating the experience. The skin and leaves are used in some Asian cuisines as seasoning, but an entire fruit would probably prove to be a challenge to consume. That being said, the papeda has helped produce some of our more popular citrus such as Key lime, which is a cross between citron and papeda.

Types of Papeda

The Ichang papeda is an ornamental tree, grown for its interesting form and scented blooms followed by heavy decorative fruits. It, along with the papeda Khasi, are also important rootstocks. Papedas are often used as rootstock to improve the disease resistance, hardiness, and other traits of citrus. The papeda fruits of Ichang lemon, Yuzu, Kaffir lime, Kabosu, and Sucachi have some use in Asian cuisine. Papedas are also used for their fragrant oil, which is part of cosmetics and perfumes. Some types of papeda are even used in traditional medicine, especially in China. While Ichang lemon is a cross of a papeda with a pomelo, there is a group called Inchandarins which are papedas crossed with mandarins.

How to Grow a Papeda

It might be difficult to get your hands on a pure papeda tree, as they are wild plants in Asian regions that receive monsoons and warm temperatures; however, the crosses may be available. Papeda plants have the same requirements of any citrus tree. Papedas need a warm, sunny location with at least 6 hours of light. The soil should be light and well draining. Clay soils will need to be heavily amended with compost or sand. Once planted, the tree should have a training stake for the first few years to keep the main trunk straight. Suckers may form off the base of papedas and should be pruned away unless you want a tangled bush. Feed papeda trees in spring and again just after flowers drop.

Though it is fun and cost saving to grow your own lemons at home, lemon trees can be very picky about where they grow. Environmental consistency is essential to flower and fruit set of lemon trees. Any sudden change can cause fruit or flower drop on lemon trees. Have you found yourself wondering: why is my lemon tree losing flowers? This article should help.

Reasons for Flower Drop on Lemon Trees

Lemon trees are sensitive to changes in their environment. Sudden fluctuations in temperature or climate can lead to lemon blossoms falling off. Lemon trees grow best in a sunny, permanent site where they can actively grow year round. They require full sun for healthy bloom and fruit production and may drop blooms if they are placed in too much shade. Lemon trees are even less tolerant of frost than orange trees. Unseasonably cold spring weather in areas that normally stay warm may cause lemon blossom drop on outdoor trees. Frost nipped lemon blossoms and buds will turn brown and mushy, then drop from the tree. In cooler climates, lemon trees are often grown in containers and moved inside or out depending upon the weather. These potted lemon trees can be even more prone to lemon blossom drop or leaf drop because the frequent environmental changes they experience as they are moved in and out. Lemon blossoms falling off a potted lemon tree may also be caused by cool drafts, as well as under or over watering. A lemon tree dropping flowers may be a sign of drought or other changes in watering. When water is scarce, a lemon tree will drop flowers or fruit to conserve energy. Flooding, waterlogged soil or over-watering can also cause lemon blossom drop. Lemons grow best in a well-draining soil with regular irrigation, especially in times of intense heat and/or drought. Lemon trees are generally acclaimed for their ability to grow in poor, under-fertile soils. However, lemon blossoms falling off a lemon tree can be a sign of a potassium deficiency. Potassium is vital for flower and fruit set, and the overall health and vigor of all citrus trees. If you wish for healthy, high yields from your lemon trees, begin a fertilizing regiment in early spring with a fertilizer high in potassium or designed specifically for citrus trees.

Citrus rust mites are pests that affect a variety of citrus trees. While they do not do any permanent or serious damage to the tree, they do make the fruit unsightly and virtually impossible to sell commercially. It is because of this, control is really only a necessity if you are looking to sell your fruit. Keep reading to learn more about managing citrus rust mites in your backyard or orchard.

Citrus Rust Mite Info

What are citrus rust mites? The citrus rust mite (Phyllocoptruta oleivora) is a pest that feeds on citrus fruit, leaves, and stems. On oranges, it is commonly known as rust mite, while on lemons, it is called silver mite. Another species, called the pink rust mite (Aculops pelekassi) is also known to cause problems. The mites are too small to see with the naked eye, but with a magnifying glass, they can be seen as pink or yellow in color and wedge shaped. Mite populations can explode quickly, with a new generation appearing every one to two weeks at the height of growth. This usually occurs in midsummer. In the spring, the population will exist mostly on new leaf growth, but by summer and into autumn, it will have moved to the fruit. Fruit that is fed on early in the season will develop a rough but light-colored texture known as “sharkskin.” Fruit that is fed on in summer or fall will be smooth but dark brown, a phenomenon called “bronzing.” While citrus rust mites can cause stunted growth and some fruit drop, the damage done to the fruit is basically cosmetic – the flesh inside will be untouched and edible. It is only a problem if you’re looking to sell your fruit commercially.

How to Kill Citrus Rust Mites

The damage caused by citrus rust mites is mostly cosmetic, so if you aren’t planning to sell your fruit, citrus rust mite control isn’t really necessary. It is, however, possible to control populations with miticides. An easier, more practical solution, is canopy density. Mite populations are less likely to explode under a thick canopy of leaves, so judicious pruning may help to lessen their numbers.

While growing citrus fruits at home is usually a very rewarding activity, things can sometimes go wrong. Like any plant, citrus trees have their own specific diseases, pests and other issues. One increasingly common problem is citrus twig dieback. In this article, we will go over the common reasons why twig dieback of citrus trees may occur.

What Causes Citrus Twig Dieback?

Citrus twig dieback can be caused by common environmental conditions, disease or pests. One simple reason for any citrus dieback, including twig dieback, limb decline, and leaf or fruit drop, is that the plant is stressed from something. This could be a pest infestation, disease outbreak, old age or a sudden environmental change such as drought, flooding, or extensive root or storm damage. 

Basically, it is a plant’s natural defense mechanism so that it can survive whatever threat it faces. In old, large citrus trees that have not been properly maintained, it is not uncommon for top branches to shade out lower branches. This can cause lower limbs to experience problems such as citrus limb dieback, leaf drop, etc. Shading out or overcrowding can also create an ideal environment for pests and diseases. 

Yearly pruning of citrus trees can help prevent this by opening up the tree’s canopy to let more sunlight in and improve air circulation. Dead, damaged, diseased, crowded or crossing limbs should be pruned out annually to improve citrus health and vigor.

Other Reasons for Branches Dying on Citrus Tree

In the last few years, citrus growers in California have experienced a major outbreak of citrus twig dieback. As consumers, you have probably noticed an increase in the cost of some citrus fruit. This outbreak has severely impacted the yields of citrus growers. Recent studies have concluded that this twig dieback of citrus plants is caused by the disease pathogen Colletotrichum. 

Symptoms of this disease include chlorotic or necrotic foliage, thinning of citrus crowns, excessive sap secretion and twig and shoot dieback. In severe cases, large limbs will dieback. Though this is a disease, it is likely spread by insect vectors. Steps being taken to control the disease in citrus orchards include pest control and the use of fungicides. 

This disease is still being studied to determine the best control and management options. "The acute toxicity of fungicides to humans is generally considered to be low, but fungicides can be irritating to the skin and eyes. Chronic exposures to lower concentrations of fungicides can cause adverse health effects." 

Note: Any recommendations pertaining to the use of chemicals are for informational purposes only. Specific brand names or commercial products or services do not imply endorsement. Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and more environmentally friendly.

Citrus heart rot is an infection that causes the trunks of citrus trees to rot. It is also known as wood rot in citrus and bears the scientific name of Ganoderma. If you are wondering what causes citrus ganoderma, read on. We’ll fill you in on the causes of ganoderma rot of citrus as well as what steps to take if this happens in your orchard.

About Citrus Ganoderma Rot

If you grow citrus trees, you should keep an eye out for different diseases that can attack your orchard. One fungal disease is called ganoderma rot of citrus or citrus heart rot. The first symptom you might observe indicating that your tree suffers from citrus ganoderma rot is a general decline. You might see some leaves and branches dying in the canopy. After a while, the fungi move up the tree from the roots to the crown and trunk via strands called rhizomorphs. These strands ultimately form brown mushroom-type structures on the bottom of the citrus trunks. These grow in the shape of fans. What causes citrus genoderm? This type of wood rot in citrus is caused by the Ganoderma pathogen. The ganoderma infection rots the wood and causes decline or death. Ganoderma pathogens are fungi. They generally enter citrus trees through some kind of wound in the trunks or branches. However, when you cut and remove mature, large trees from your orchard, their stumps can serve as sources of inoculum. This can result from airborne spores or else from grafting of infected roots. If you replant young trees near infected stumps, the fungus can be passed to the younger tree even when they are not wounded. When young trees are infected in this way, their health often declines quickly. They can die within two years.

Citrus Heart Rot Treatment

Unfortunately, by the time you see symptoms of citrus heart rot, the disease has caused problems that cannot be cured. Older trees with wood rot in citrus will lose their structural integrity and their branches may fall. However, they can produce for years despite the issue. On the other hand, this is not the case when citrus ganoderma rot attacks young trees. Your best bet is to remove and dispose of the infected tree.

Citrus quick decline is a syndrome caused by the citrus tristeza virus (CTV). It kills citrus trees quickly and has been known to devastate orchards. Keep reading to learn more about what causes citrus quick decline and how to stop citrus quick decline.

What Causes Citrus Quick Decline?

Quick decline of citrus trees is a syndrome brought about by the citrus tristeza virus, commonly known as CTV. CTV is spread mostly by the brown citrus aphid, an insect that feeds on citrus trees. As well as quick decline, CTV also causes seedling yellows and stem pitting, two other distinct syndromes with their own symptoms. The quick decline strain of CTV does not have many noticeable symptoms – there may only be a slight staining color or bulge at the bud union. The tree will visibly start to fail, and it will die. There may also be symptoms of other strains, such as pits in the stems that give the bark a ropey appearance, vein clearing, leaf cupping, and reduced fruit size.

How to Stop Citrus Quick Decline

Luckily, quick decline of citrus trees is mostly a problem of the past. The syndrome primarily affects citrus trees grafted onto sour orange rootstock. This rootstock is rarely used these days precisely because of its susceptibility to CTV. It was once a popular choice for rootstock (in Florida in the 1950's and 60's it was the most commonly used), but the spread of CTV all but wiped it out. Trees planted on the rootstock died out and further grafting was stopped because of the severity of the disease. When planting new citrus trees, sour orange rootstock should be avoided. If you have valuable citrus trees that are already growing on sour orange rootstock, it is possible (though expensive) to inarch graft them onto different rootstocks before they become infected. Chemical control of aphids is not shown to be very effective. Once a tree becomes infected with CTV, there is no way to save it.

Citrus melanose is an infection that impacts all types of citrus trees, causing damage to leaves and fruit rinds. The pulp of the fruit is not usually affected, but the disease can harm the tree and leaves the fruit looking unattractive. Prevention, management, and treatment can help eliminate or minimize melanose.

What Causes Citrus Melanose?

Citrus melanoses disease is caused by a fungus called Phomopsis citri. The citrus melanose fungus can infect any type of citrus tree, but grapefruit and lemon are most susceptible to it. The fungus grows on dead twigs on trees, and it then spreads to other areas of the tree and other trees by water dispersal.

Citrus Melanose Symptoms

Symptoms of citrus melanose can be seen most clearly on leaves and fruit. The leaves develop small red-to-brown spots. These are often ringed in yellow, but this coloring disappears as the disease develops. The surface of the leaf becomes rough in texture. The citrus fruit infected by the melanose fungus will show brown spots or pustules. These grow together and start to crack, a phenomenon known as mudcake. The spots may also travel down the fruit with dripping water, making what is referred to as a tear stain.

Preventing Citrus Melanose

If you grow citrus in your garden, you can take steps to reduce the chances that the infection will develop or spread. Because the fungus grows on dead wood, it is important to trim out dead branches and twigs and remove them from the ground immediately. Disinfect pruning shears before using them on healthy branches. The disease spreads by water, so avoiding overhead watering is also helpful.

How to Treat Citrus Melanose

Citrus melanose control, once it has developed in a tree or orchard, involves the use of fungicides. The most common type used is copper fungicide, but you can get recommendations and instructions for use from your nursery or local agricultural extension. Fungicide treatment of your citrus trees is not always necessary. The disease does not make your fruit inedible, but if the infection is severe it can harm the tree by damaging twigs and leaves. Fungicide can be used as a last resort if prevention and control methods don’t keep the disease under control.

What is citrus psorosis? This infectious viral disease affects citrus trees around the world and has played havoc in major citrus-producing countries, including North and South America and the Mediterranean. Although there are several strains of citrus psorosis, which vary in severity, the disease will affect productivity and kill the tree sooner or later. The good news is that the disease has diminished considerably over the past few decades, thanks to the use of certified disease-free budwood in grafting.

Citrus Psorosis Symptoms

Citrus psorosis symptoms, which affect primarily citrus trees at least eight to 10 years old, include patches of bark with small bubbles or pustules. The affected areas eventually turn into scaly patches that may callus or slough away in strips. Gummy lesions form on and under the bark.

Young leaves may display mottling and yellow flecks, which often fade as the season progresses. The fruit of infected citrus trees is inedible and may, in severe cases, develop a mottled appearance and depressed, gray or yellowish rings.

What Causes Citrus Psorosis?

Citrus psorosis is a viral disease, transmitted primarily by grafts of infected budwood, or sometimes by contaminated grafting tools. In some types of citrus, the disease is carried by infected seeds.

How to Prevent Citrus Psorosis?

Purchase certified disease-free trees or budwood from a reputable nursery. This is the primary way to prevent citrus psorosis. If you graft trees, ensure your tools are sanitized regularly.

Treating Citrus Psorosis

You can try to scrape away infected bark, which may help temporarily by stimulating growth of a callus on the wound.

However, replacement of diseased citrus trees is usually the best option, as an infected tree will be substantially less productive than healthy citrus trees and will slowly die.

Just like humans, trees can get sunburnt. Unlike humans, however, trees can take a very long time to recover. Sometimes they never completely do. Citrus trees can be very vulnerable to sunscald and sunburn, especially in very hot and sunny climates. Keep reading to learn more about what causes citrus sunscald and how to prevent sunscald on citrus trees.

What Causes Citrus Sunscald?

Citrus sunburn occurs when soft, vulnerable parts of the tree are exposed to too much intense sunlight. While it also affects fruit and leaves, the problem is the most serious when it reaches the bark, since it cannot be replaced and may never completely heal. Citrus sunburn usually appears as irregularly shaped, brown, raised lesions in spots that are hit by direct sun. As well as being unsightly, these lesions open up a direct pathway for diseases and pathogens to enter the tree. A citrus tree with sunscald may experience rotting fruit, stunted growth, and any number of opportunistic diseases that have found their way in.

How to Prevent Sunscald on Citrus Trees

Unfortunately, there is no good way to treat a citrus tree with sunscald. The only effective method is prevention. Sunscald is at its most dangerous on young trees with more delicate bark. If you are planting new trees and live in a climate with long, hot, extremely sunny days, try planting in a spot that receives some afternoon shade. Always keep your plants as healthy as possible, providing them with the appropriate amount of water and fertilizer. A healthy tree will be better able to survive any problem, including sunscald. Be careful when pruning – air circulation is good, but an ample leaf canopy will naturally protect your tree’s fruit and bark from intense sunlight. Old conventional wisdom recommended painting the trunks of citrus trees with whitewash (1 part white latex paint, 1 part water). While this is an effective form of sunscreen, it can be unsightly and is not practiced as much anymore.

Sweet orange scab disease, which affects primarily sweet oranges, tangerines and mandarins, is a relatively benign fungal disease that doesn’t kill trees, but significantly affects the appearance of the fruit. Although the flavor isn’t affected, some growers choose to use the damaged fruit to make juice. The disease was first detected in the United States in 2010. Since that time, it has spread across the South, leading to quarantine in several states. Read on to learn about sweet orange scab control.

What Causes Sweet Orange Scab?

Sweet orange scab is caused by the fungus Elsinoe australis. The fungus is spread by water, generally by splashing, wind-driven rain or overhead irrigation. Three to four hours of wet conditions can result in disease. The disease is also moved on transported fruit, often necessitating quarantines to contain spread.

Sweet Orange Scab Symptoms

Affected fruit displays raised, corky, wart-like pustules that emerge as pinkish-gray or tan, often turning yellowish-brown or dark gray. The bumpy areas become smoother as the disease progresses. Sweet orange scab symptoms may also include lesions on twigs and small, puckered leaves. In some cases, the disease can cause premature fruit drop, and may also result in stunted growth in young trees.

How to Prevent Sweet Orange Scab

Here are some helpful tips on managing sweet orange scab in the garden: Water citrus trees with a drip irrigation system or soaker hose. Avoid overhead irrigation, as the water spreads in water droplets. Use good sanitation practices and keep your tools and growing area clean. Sweet orange scab can be spread by equipment, tools and people. Never transport fruit out of the area. Treat affected trees with a copper-based fungicide. Usually, at least two treatments are required, two to three weeks apart. Ask your local cooperative extension office or agricultural specialist about the best products for your area.

The citrus leaf miner (Phyllocnistis citrella) is a small Asian moth whose larvae dig mines in citrus leaves.

First found in the United States in the 1990s, these pests have spread into other states, as well as into Mexico, the Caribbean islands and Central America, causing citrus leaf miner damage.

If you think your orchard might be infested by citrella leaf miners, you’ll want to learn techniques for managing them. Read on for information on citrus leaf miner damage and what you can do about it.

About Citrella Leaf Miners

Citrus leaf miners, also called citrella leaf miners, are not destructive in their adult stage. They are very small moths, so minute that they are rarely even noticed. They have silvery white scales on their wings and a black spot on each wingtip.

The female leaf miner moths lay their eggs one by one on the underside of citrus leaves. Grapefruit, lemon and lime trees are the most frequent hosts, but all citrus plants can be infested.

Tiny larvae develop and mine tunnels into the leaves. Pupation takes between six and 22 days and happens within the leaf margin. Many generations are born each year. In Florida, a new generation is produced every three weeks.

Citrus Leaf Miner Damage

As with all leaf miners, larval mines are the most obvious signs of citrus leaf miners in your fruit trees. These are the winding holes eaten inside the leaves by the larvae of citrella leaf miners.

Only young, flushing foliage is infested. The mines of citrus leaf miners are filled with frass, unlike those of other citrus pests. Other signs of their presence include curling leaves and rolled leaf edges where pupation occurs.

If you notice the signs of citrus leaf miners in your orchard, you may be worried about the damage that the pests will do. However, citrus leaf miner damage is not very significant in a home orchard. Remember that the larvae of citrella leaf miners do not attack or damage the citrus fruit, but only the leaves. That may mean that you have to make the effort to protect young trees since their development can be affected by the infestation, but your crop may not be damaged.

Citrus Leaf Miner Control

Managing citrus leaf miners is more a concern of commercial orchards than those with one or two lemon trees in the backyard. In Florida orchards, growers rely on both biological control and horticultural oil applications.

Most citrus leaf miner control occurs via the insect’s natural enemies. These include parasitic wasps and spiders that kill up to 90 percent of larvae and pupae. One wasp is the parasitoid Ageniaspis citricola that accomplishes about a third of the control work itself. It is also responsible for managing citrus leaf miners in Hawaii as well.

Citrus foot rot, often known as gummosis of citrus or brown rot of citrus trees, is a major disease that wreaks havoc on citrus trees around the world. Unfortunately, citrus foot rot isn’t curable but you may be able to prevent it from taking over your citrus orchards. Read on to learn more about citrus gummosis problems and what you can do to prevent the disease from spreading.

Citrus Gummosis Information

What causes citrus foot rot? Citrus foot rot is a disease caused by Phytophthora, an aggressive fungus that lives in the soil. Phytophthora requires moisture to move to trees via rain, irrigation, or whenever spores splash on tree trunks. Trees can develop citrus root rot symptoms very quickly in rainy weather and cool, moist climates.

Citrus Foot Rot Symptoms

Citrus foot rot symptoms include yellowing foliage and leaf dieback, along with reduced yield and smaller fruit. The term “gummosis” isn’t the name of a disease, but actually refers to a major symptom in which a gooey, dark brown, gum-like substance oozes from cracks and lesions in the bark. The water soaked, brownish or black lesions spread around the trunk, eventually girdling the tree. This may occur rapidly, or it may continue for several years, depending on environmental conditions.

Managing Citrus Gummosis Problems

Early detection of citrus foot rot is critical, but the initial signs may be difficult to spot. Here are some tips for managing gummosis of citrus: Ensure the soil drains well. You may need to consider planting trees on berms to improve drainage. Look closely at the bark of new trees before purchasing. Inspect citrus trees for symptoms several times per year. Water citrus trees properly, using a drip system to avoid overwatering. Avoid irrigating trees with drained water, as Phytophthora can be moved from one area to another in soil runoff. Limit mulching under citrus trees. Mulch slows drying of the soil, thus contributing to excess moisture and the development of citrus foot rot.