Clematis plants are serious climbers. Indeed, they might be the showiest of climbers. This rapid-growing, vigorous vine climbs up trellises, pergolas and fences, up to 30 feet (10m) high, using twisting leaf petioles and twining growth. If your garden includes a climbing clematis, you’ll know that it helps to create an enchanting three-dimensional flowering space. So the last thing you’ll want to do is compromise the vitality of your climbers – which is why you need to check a few things now.

Now, as long as you have planted yours in an appropriate site, clematis care is not all that complicated. These plants prefer to have their head in the sun and feet in the shade, as the saying goes. And for most of spring and early summer, this can happen without too much fuss. But as the summer weather heats up this month, all vines (including clematis) need targeted attention to keep them growing happily.

Taking 20 minutes this week to attend to your Group 2 and Group 3 clematis vines is not just about keeping up appearances. The little things you do now will directly determine how long those velvety petals can hold on during midsummer heat spikes, the intensity of their colors, the size and health of the blooms, and the shape and mass of their growth. Here’s how to ensure that your queen of climbers continues to be the star of your summer show.

How to Help Your Clematis in July

The heat in July can sometimes feel closer to oppressive than delightful. Our favorite plants also feel the heat, and, unlike us, they can’t escape to the cool of the shade. Clematis, in particular, requires a full sun location to thrive, which means it’s stuck in the heat without so much as sunglasses. So it’s counting on you to ride to the rescue by tackling these key tasks in July. First, make sure you know your vine's specific pruning group or class, as this is the key to unlocking its full blooming potential.

Group 1 spring-bloomers like Clematis montana and C. alpina have finished their flowering and are quietly settling into vegetative growth. July belongs to Group 2 clems (early summer flowerers like Nelly Moser) and Group 3 (late summer bloomers like Jackmanii and C. viticella). For Group 2 clematis types, what you do in July can determine whether you see a secondary flush in late summer. For Group 3, this is peak performance season, which relies on regular care and support.

The nature and degree of your clematis care in July will depend on your USDA hardiness zone and growing setup. In warmer regions (zones 7-9), moisture retention and root cooling are top priority. In northern zones (zones 4-6), long daylight hours will drive rapid stem elongation that requires structural checks. Container-grown clematis suffer heat stress faster than ground-planted vines. Soil temperatures can spike rapidly, drying out delicate roots within a single afternoon.

Whether you’re growing in the ground or in a container, be sure to give your soil a quick onceover before getting stuck into these clematis steps. Check soil moisture levels with a digital probe, or by dipping your finger two inches into the root zone. A moisture probe like the XLUX Moisture Meter Probe, available from Amazon, can help you avoid piling undue stress onto delicate roots. Once you have a basic read on these levels, get cracking with these simple checks for happy clems in summer.

1. Give Your Clematis Regular Water

Vines dry out faster than rounded shrubs, since they can’t rely on their own shade. Think of a hydrangea shrub: the big leaves cast shade on the interior of the plants, keeping it cooler. A clematis doesn’t have that luxury. Since its roots thrive in moist soil, regular watering is a must. In July, you’ll want to give vines a deep watering. Do this early in the morning, to maximize absorption and reduce evaporation.

Clematis feeder roots reside in the top 12-18 inches (30-46 cm) of soil, making them vulnerable to drying out during heatwaves. For Group 3 varieties, water stress can cause buds to crisp up and drop before opening. To simplify the process of regular watering, you can use a soaker hose or some kind of drip irrigation. The Gilmour Flat Soaker Hose from Amazon can deliver deep moisture without splashing the foliage.

Direct your hose or drip line at least 6-12 inches (15-30 cm) from the main stem base. Soaking the crown directly can invite the risk of clematis wilt. Water deeply at the base 2-3 times a week. Try not to neglect this vital task, or else your clem will likely drop her lower leaves, and prematurely terminate flower production.

2. Protect Clematis Roots with Mulch

Those clematis roots are the key to keeping your plant thriving. Watering deeply is important, but you can also lock in that moisture with a good mulching. Place a thick layer of organic mulch around the base of the vine to protect the roots from extreme heat. Chopped bark or compost works well for this task.

A team favorite for organic root protection is Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch from Amazon, which protects from heat spikes, and locks in moisture. It also keeps down weeds that might steal nutrients or water from the vine. When mulching Group 2 and Group 3 clematis, leave a 2-inch (5 cm) gap around the main stems. Don't pile mulch up against stems, as this can trap moisture and encourage collar rot.

As an alternative to mulching, you could add some groundcover plants around the base of your clematis. Shorter perennials can also provide natural shade and keep soil cool. For container-grown clems, consider shallow-rooted companions like hardy geranium (Rozanne) or lady’s mantle (Alchemilla mollis) to shade soil organically.

Failing to mulch or provide some groundcover during midsummer forces the plant into survival mode when heat strikes, stalling stem growth and causing flowers to shrink drastically. So don’t neglect this vital step: a protected root zone preserves moisture and nutrients and supports healthy growth through to the end of summer.

3. Feed Your Clematis Vine

You need to get the timing right with feeding. You don’t want to stress the clematis by fertilizing the plant during a heatwave. But clematis plants do need fertilizer every few weeks to keep up their vigorous blooms. So keep an eye on the weather. When a day or two of cooler weather is predicted, apply a phosphorus-rich liquid fertilizer. Follow up by watering well, try to do this every 2-4 weeks.

Avoid high-nitrogen lawn or general fertilizers. High nitrogen fuels leafy green stems at the expense of flower buds and results in soft foliage that attracts aphids. Instead, focus on potassium (potash) and phosphorus blends similar to a tomato or rose feed. For low-maintenance feeding, gently add a little granular feed, like Jobe’s Organics Rose & Flower Granular Fertilizer, available from Walmart, to the topsoil.

A little seaweed can also help. Feeding with Neptune’s Harvest Organic Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer, available from Amazon, gives a gentle potassium boost as well as other essential minerals to drive flower production. Group 2 clematis benefit from a liquid feed immediately after their first main flush ends. This fuels the stem growth needed for their second late-summer show. Group 3 clematis plants need bi-weekly potassium feeds through July to sustain their massive bloom displays.

Always water your plant with plain water an hour before applying liquid fertilizer to prevent root burn. And if you’re experiencing intense heat, hold off on feeding until temperatures drop. Stressed plants can’t process nutrients well.

4. Give Your Clematis a Haircut

The heat of summer is never a wonderful time to prune, but consider giving your vine a clip here or there in July. If you have a reblooming clematis (Group 2), deadhead the wilted blossoms. Use clean, sterilized pruners and snip off the old flower heads above the first pair of live leaves or buds. If your clematis has completed its blooming, now is a good time to give the vine a light trim. Take out the dead wood and shape the vine. But avoid anything that feels like heavy pruning.

If you don’t already have a pair of gardening scissors or snips, Fiskars Micro-Tip Non-Stick Pruning Snips from Amazon help you to slice in fiddly spaces without harming plant tissue. For a sturdier grip on older stems, the Corona ComfortGEL Bypass Pruners from Lowe’s are comfortable and great for light shaping.

Left untouched, spent clematis flowers spend significant energy forming decorative, feathery seed heads. By snipping off faded blooms, you redirect that energy back into shoot development and bud formation. It is key for Group 2 plants such as Nelly Moser, Miss Bateman, or Niobe clems. Do this now, and fresh shoots will emerge in a few weeks, bearing a second wave of blooms by late August or September.

Remember, Group 1 clematis plants set their flower buds for next spring during late summer. So any heavy pruning performed after July will cut off next spring's flower display. When cutting, also remember to wipe blades before and after use, even for light trims. Use isopropyl or rubbing alcohol to avoid the risk of spreading pathogens.

5. Control New Clematis Shoots

Clematis vines are well known for having growth spurts in summer, and all those vigorous new shoots need to be tied in and supported. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a tangled mess of vine. In July, Group 3 clematis can put on several inches of growth in a single day. If left unguided, searching stems will wrap around each other, forming a dense, tangled birds' nest of growth. This reduces light penetration and airflow, increasing the risk of fungal diseases.

Check vines every week in July for loose shoots, and fasten straggly or wayward shoots. Jute twine, like the Nutscene Heritage Green Jute Twine from Amazon, is a gentle way to keep growth in check and won’t bite into the stem. Tie the stems loosely in the direction you want them to grow. Try figure-of-8 loops to allow the stems to grow without restraint. Consistent training creates an evenly distributed canopy, allowing for the best sun exposure and resulting in a wall of flowers from top to bottom.

Shop Clematis Essentials

By the time July rolls in, clematis groups 2 and 3 are working in overdrive, either opening their main flush of summer blooms or gearing up for a secondary late-season show. You don't need a shed full of gadgets to keep them thriving – just a few well-selected tools and organic boosters will do the trick and keep your favorite climber growing at its best. A well-placed feed, precise deadheading, and a cool root zone are the secrets to prolonging those velvety blooms well into fall. Here are the simple, high-impact essentials to keep your clems lush and lovely.

Plant Care Trio

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If you are thinking about bringing a climbing perennial into your backyard, consider clematis. It’s a flowering vine with stunning flowers that is happy to climb up your trellis, fence, dead tree or any similar structure. Clematis needs only full sun and well-draining soil to blaze with brilliantly-colored blooms in your landscape.

But don’t confuse low-maintenance clematis care needs with no maintenance. You still need to do what’s necessary in every month of the year to keep your clematis vibrant and lovely each year. In June, as summer begins, clematis plants need a little help – but nothing too strenuous.

Here are the five most important tasks that need to be taken care of in June to ensure your clematis blooms beautifully year after year.

What to Do for Clematis in June

June is a busy time in the garden as the temperatures rise and everything starts growing. Fortunately, your clematis won’t need too much help this month. However, you’ll want to be sure to fit in these five core care tasks. It would be a shame to endanger those bright and beautiful clematis flowers by ignoring your plant’s needs. Here's what to do before July arrives.

1. Start a Watering Schedule

Even if you transplanted your clematis earlier this year, your plant should be established by June. That means it’s time to start an irrigation program that you can use all summer long. The twin goals of an appropriate watering schedule are giving the plant the moisture it needs and encouraging roots to push deeper.

Clematis is one of many plants that like their roots to be cool and their soil to be moist in June. Plants, especially vines, can dry out quickly as the temperatures rise. But that doesn’t mean that you should water them daily. Water clematis deeply once a week if it rains or twice a week in hotter, drier regions.

Watering your plant infrequently, yet deeply and slowly is best. It encourages clematis roots to grow deeper into the soil, which results in a more resilient plant in summer. Don’t forget that timing is important. The best time to water plants is first thing in the early morning. Use a drip irrigation kit like this one from Home Depot to give plants water at the roots, exactly where they need it most.

2. Add Mulch

Mulch is like a forcefield around your clematis roots. It holds the moisture in the soil even when the warm June sun turns into scorching July heat. Mulch also keeps the roots cool in hot weather and prevents weeds from growing (and sharing the limited moisture and nutrients in the soil). Last but not least, mulch prevents soil splash. That’s when rain falls on the soil and sprinkles some off it on the leaves, sometimes leading to diseases like clematis wilt.

What type of mulch should you use? The best choices are organic mulches, like this one from Back to the Roots, that are made from materials that will disintegrate into the soil and enrich it over time. Consider shredded leaves, pine needles, or bark. Keep the mulch away from the clematis stems to prevent rot.

3. Begin Fertilizing

Just like the summer irrigation program should start in June, it’s also the time to start using fertilizer to give your plant the nutrient boost it needs. Select a balanced fertilizer, like this organic option from Burpee, and use it regularly during the entire growing season. Plan to feed your clematis twice a month while it is actively putting on new shoots.

Appropriate fertilizer use helps the clematis grow and flower. It keeps the plant healthy and encourages the production of lots of buds and flowers. You might consider switching to a fertilizer with extra potassium once buds start to form. This supports a fuller, heavier display of flowers. This liquid bloom-boosting fertilizer from Espoma is a good choice.

4. Monitor for Pests & Diseases

Early summer is such a lovely time of year that it’s hard to remember it’s also the time when common clematis problems often appear. You’ll want to inspect your vines every few days to make sure that if problems arise, you catch them early.

Clematis wilt is a fungal disease that can take your plant from gorgeous to wilted almost overnight. It is more common in the species of clematis with large flowers. If you see symptoms – including spots on leaves or black stems – use sterilized pruners to cut out all of the affected areas back to healthy stems. Dispose of the diseased portions carefully. There are no chemicals or products that help this disease, but encouraging good airflow can help prevent fungal issues.

Aphids are another problem for clematis plants in June. Look for them on soft new shoots in June. Remember, they like to hang out in groups on the underside of the leaves. You can wash them off with the hose or buy live ladybugs on Amazon that will eat aphids.

5. Train New Shoots

Everyone needs support to get along, including your clematis. This plant needs a sturdy structure like a trellis to climb. Clematis are happiest when they grow vertically.

In June, there are plenty of fresh young clematis stems appearing. If summer winds happen to blow, the clematis stems can get tangled up and damaged if they aren’t linked to the support structure early enough.

During June, you need to watch for these young shoots. Train clematis vines so each one attaches to the support structure – whether a trellis or a porch railing – with velcro plant ties or garden twine, both of which you can find on Amazon. Investing a few minutes training stems in June will give you a strong, lush plant in July and August.

Clematis has a reputation for being temperamental, but most of the difficulty comes down to timing. May is when these vines move fast – new growth can extend several inches in a week under good conditions – and the decisions made during this window, from pruning approach to feeding schedule, carry forward for months. Miss the window and the season might just feel like catch-up from there.

Good clematis care isn't complicated, but it is specific to the time of year. May brings a particular checklist – some tasks are preventative, some are corrective, and a few are just about paying attention before minor issues become bigger ones. Here's what's worth doing right now.

What to Do with Clematis in May

Most of these tasks take under an hour, and several can be done in a single pass through the garden.

1. Put Down the Shears and Check Your Pruning Group

Pruning clematis wrong is one of the faster ways to lose a season of blooms. Not all clematis get pruned the same way, and the difference matters. Some bloom on last year's wood and shouldn't be cut in spring at all. Others push blooms on new growth and want cutting right down. A third group does a bit of both and needs only a light tidy.

By May the vine usually makes it obvious – stems already loaded with buds mean hands off, while new growth pushing up from the base points to a harder cut. Unknown pruning group? Wait and see what the plant does before touching it.

2. Feed with a Balanced Fertilizer

May growth is hungry growth. A clematis pushing out new vines and building toward bloom is drawing heavily on whatever is available in the soil, and a garden that's been planted in the same spot for a few years may not have much left to offer.

A slow-release granular fertilizer like this from Amazon worked into the soil around the base – kept away from the stem itself – gives the plant something to pull from over the coming weeks.

For gardeners who prefer liquid feeding, a balanced liquid fertilizer from Amazon applied every two to three weeks through the growing season can fill the gap without overloading the root zone in one shot.

3. Train and Tie New Growth

Unlike some vines that grip surfaces directly, clematis wraps its leaf stalks around whatever is close by – meaning anything too thick to grab just gets skipped over. New stems left to wander in May tend to tangle badly by June, and untangling them without snapping anything is a real project.

Soft garden twine or ties like these from Amazon work well for redirecting stems early; plant ties come in a range of widths and hold stems without cutting in as they thicken. Tying to a plant support every week or so during peak growth season keeps the structure looking intentional rather than accidental.

4. Mulch the Root Zone

There's an old saying about clematis wanting its feet in the shade and its head in the sun, and the feet part is worth taking seriously. Clematis roots sit close to the surface and don't have a lot of tolerance for heat or extended dry spells, and May is when ground temperatures start moving up.

A 2–3 inch (5–8cm) layer of mulch pulled back a few inches from the stem helps a lot: moisture stays more even, soil doesn't cook, and the crown still gets the airflow it needs. Shredded bark or wood chip both do the job fine.

5. Scout for Clematis Wilt

Clematis wilt, often caused by Ascochyta clematidina, doesn't announce itself – a stem can look completely healthy in the morning and be collapsed and black by afternoon. It's fungal, and the mild days and cool nights of May happen to be pretty good conditions for it.

What most gardeners don't realize until it happens: wilt almost never kills the plant. It hits the above-ground growth hard, but the root system usually comes through intact, and new shoots push up once the damaged stems are cut back to clean tissue.

Cut out anything affected, get it in the trash rather than the compost pile, and move on. A copper-based fungicide from Walmart can help as a preventative if wilt has been a recurring problem in previous years.

6. Water Consistently While the Plant Establishes

A clematis in its first or second year hasn't built out enough of a root system to hunt down moisture on its own. Dry stretches that a settled vine shrugs off can stress a young plant pretty hard, and repeated wilting early on sets things back in ways that don't always show up until later.

Roughly an inch (2.5cm) of water weekly is a reasonable starting point – more when it gets warm. A soaker hose or drip line like this one from Amazon delivers it at root level and keeps the foliage dry, which matters because wet leaves on a plant already prone to fungal issues is a combination worth avoiding.

The first time I saw a clematis vine, I thought it was fake - until I touched it. The flowers were huge as dinner plates, a flashy shade of purple, and extremely showy. Given the impressive and elegant flowers and the vine’s multigenerational life span, it’s really not surprising that clematis is called the “queen of the vines.”

Growing clematis will add a sense of the spectacular to any garden in its range, USDA zones 4-9. Large flower vines can grow to 20 feet (6.5m) long and entirely cover a structure or trellis. With over 300 species in this genus, you will have many different choices in terms of size and flower color, as well as bloom time. Some clematis vines bloom in spring, some in summer or fall, and some flower multiple times.

April clematis care depends in part on what type of clematis you have. We’ll explain the differences as we describe the care.

1. Start Watering

Clematis goes dormant in winter and ceases to grow. As April rolls out the red carpet for spring, the Queen of the Vines starts growing again. It needs water for healthy growth.

How can you tell if your clematis needs water in April? It’s easy, and the same for all species of clematis. To figure out whether the vine needs water, just poke a finger into the soil around the plant up to the first knuckle. If the top inch is dry, the vine needs water.

Like so many plants, clematis needs regular water. It grows best when the soil around its roots is moist. Don’t mistake moist for waterlogged. Wet soil will kill the plant faster than you think, rotting out the roots. But dry soil is a big no-no as well. The vine cannot uptake water and nutrients in dry soil, and its roots cannot grow.

If your plant’s top inch of soil is dry in April, deep water the plant so that the water sinks into the soil. This supports the new spurt of growth that is about to arrive. If the plant is new to your garden, water twice or three times a week. Otherwise, for established plants, provide 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water per week if a good rain doesn’t take care of it.

2. Pile on the Mulch

Keeping the soil most between waterings provides consistent hydration to your vine, allowing it to shoot up and flower profusely. But the sun and wind can dry out the soil quickly. April is the perfect time to bring in the big guns in the form of mulch. Mulch not only prevents the moisture in the soil from evaporating, but it also keeps weeds down and creates a healthy environment for your plant’s roots.

I like to use organic compost for mulch, but there are many other choices. Both wood chips and shredded leaves can be organic and both work well for this vine in April, keeping the soil moist and the roots cool. Just apply a layer of mulch around the base of the plant without allowing it to touch the vine. Above all, do not form a pyramid with the mulch around the stem.

April Clematis Essentials

3. Support Your Vine

Yes, you can go out and cheer your clematis’s growth if you like, but that’s not what we mean by clematis support. These vines like to grow on a support structure, like a trellis, a fence, or a post, which allows its pollinator fans (hummers, bees, and butterflies) easy access to the flowers. And it’s in your interests to give the clematis the structure it wants, since without something to climb, the long vine will create a sprawling mess across the ground.

In April you can provide a structure, or, if one is already in place, repair or replace it. For new-to-the-world plants, a simple stake is sufficient for initial support. But over time, change this out for a trellis, arbor or fence since these climbing plants need something to grow on.

4. Get Pruning... Unless!

It’s easy enough to advise pruning a clematis vine in order to promote flowering. It’s a bit more difficult to be specific, as the three different kinds of clematis each have their own pruning rules. The first job is to determine which kind you have. Here are the three types of clematis:

• Woody-stemmed plants that bloom in early spring on the prior year’s stems.
• Double flowering clematis that bloom first in late spring on prior wood and again in fall on new wood.
• Vines with large, showy flowers that abloom both in summer and fall on current growth.

Of these three groups, only the latter should be pruned in April. The first two groups of clematis (woody-stemmed and double-flowering) should only be pruned to remove deadwood after the vine flowers and the blooms fade.

The third group should be pruned back severely in April if you didn’t do so in late winter. And we mean severely. Take off the entire vine, leaving only two pairs of buds on each stem.

5. Fertilize

Clematis vines benefit from a feeding in April. Use either a top-quality fertilizer for roses like this one from Amazon. Be sure the product contains all three essential nutrients. Nitrogen helps with growth but clematis needs both phosphorus and potassium to encourage blooming. Continue fertilizing the vine every month until fall arrives in September.

Clematis are fabulous plants to have in your garden, adding vibrant vertical accents and another layer of color. There are so many fun ways to use these vining clematis beauties, too, aside from growing them up a trellis or wall. Pick the best clematis vine and you can let the stems scramble through a shrub, tree or hedge, adding petals to foliage or another season of blooms to a winter flowerer. Some clever cultivars can be grown horizontally as well, so you can allow their stems to potter through a border for a wonderfully whimsical vibe.

There are scented clematis that will add beautiful fragrance to a backyard, clematis vines that attract hummingbirds, and clematis that bring amazing fall color, too.

While it’s true that some clematis are invasive, there are plenty more that are perfectly well-behaved. You simply have to choose the right variety for the job you want it to do, whether that’s to deliver an abundant but compact display of show-off flowers in a patio pot or a quickly disguise an ugly shed with a riot of ruffled petals.

Don’t worry about pruning, either. All these varieties are very easy to prune, and some don’t even need pruning much at all! Which clematis vine is right for your garden?

1. Best Clematis For a Pot

A fairly recent introduction, Clematis Diamantina is simply fabulous in a patio pot. For a start, its violet-blue blooms grow up to 6 inches across in a glorious pompom of petals, and each flower lasts for an incredible four weeks. It flowers prolifically in May–June, then has a second flush in September–October. The plant is compact, growing to around six feet, and – highly unusual for a clematis – extremely happy in a pot. Just give it a container that’s at least 16 inches wide and deep. It only needs light pruning, too, with a tidy-up in early spring and again after its first flush of flowers. Zones 4–9.

2. Best Clematis for Months of Fragrance

Flowering for longer than most other clematis cultivars, Clematis ‘Sweet Summer Love’ brings hundreds of small, red-purple sweetly-scented flowers through summer and fall. The floral perfume is wonderfully layered with spicy clove-like hints and warm vanilla undertones, so this vine is a lovely addition to a patio. It’s vigorous and easy to grow, capable of reaching 10 feet high and wide, but as this clematis flowers on new growth, it’s best to cut stems back to a foot above the ground in early spring each year, which also controls its size. Zones 4–9.

3. Best Clematis for Red Color That Attracts Hummingbirds

True red clematis are very rare, but fairly recently bred cultivar Clematis 'Rebecca' boasts fabulous crimson tones. The color of its rich hue varies, usually opening in velvety plum-red tones then turning a punchier crimson. The more sun it gets, the brighter the red is, too, so depending on what weather we get, the color can change from year to year. It blooms from June to September, when hummingbirds and pollinators won’t fail to notice its spectacular color. Clematis 'Rebecca' only reaches 6–8 feet high and 3–4 feet wide so all it needs is a light trim in early spring. Zones 4–8.

4. Best Clematis to Plant in a Border

Clematis ‘Rooguchi’ is an exciting clematis introduced from Japan and it’s not a climber! This non-clinging vine – technically a subshrub – doesn’t have tendrils so rather than grow it upwards, you can leave it to scamper around other plants in a border for a beautiful, whimsical effect. Its violet-blue bell-shaped flowers grow on sturdy stems (this cultivar was originally bred for the cut flower industry) from midsummer to fall. The plant can reach around 6 feet by 3 feet, which is about the right size for an average border, and you simply cut it back to 8 inches in spring. Zones 4–8.

5. Best Clematis for a Beginner Gardener

Proven Winners call this Clematis 'Zojapur' cultivar ‘Happy Jack’ and it certainly lives up to its name, flowering abundantly all through summer with minimal care, bringing big, velvety purple flowers that fade to blue and deciduous dark green foliage. The plant is quick to establish and robust, and although it grows quickly, the stems only reach an ultimate size of 8 feet high and 3 feet wide. Apart from tying in the stems, your only job is to chop the lot down to 8 inches from the ground in early spring and sprinkle on some slow-release fertilizer to enjoy another year of blooms. Zones 5–9.

6. Best Clematis for a Plantsperson

The handsome creamy white flowers of Clematis ‘Henryi’ can grow to 8 inches across, and the anthers are a warm chocolate brown, making this one of the most elegant clematis to grow in your garden. Dark green deciduous foliage makes the light blooms seem almost luminous, too. It flowers from May to June on old wood so only needs a tidy-up in early spring, snipping stem tips to the uppermost pair of strong buds. It can grow to 15 feet high and 3 feet wide though, so to control its size, give stems a second prune to 3–5 feet high once flowers have faded – this also encourages a second flush of blooms in late summer. If you’re looking for a present for a gardener friend, this is a perfect choice. Zones 4–9.

7. Best Clematis to Scramble up a Tree or Shrub

Clematis ‘Sarah Elizabeth’ is part of the recently introduced Boulevard series and has been bred to stay a manageable size, growing to around 5 feet. This makes it a fabulous option to grow up through a shrub or small tree as it won’t overwhelm the supporting plant, unlike more vigorous varieties. Its pruning requirements are perfect, too, as it's cut to 8 inches from the ground in early spring, so its host plant never gets tangled in old stems. Clematis 'Sarah Elizabeth' blooms from late spring to early fall so you can use it to give winter-flowering shrubs a second season of interest with these pretty soft pink petals. Just plant it 1½ feet from the shrub or tree base so it doesn’t have to compete for nutrients, and guide stems towards the host plant. Zones 4–9.

8. Best Clematis for a North-Facing Wall

Most clematis vines prefer plenty of sunshine and are best suited to south- or west-facing spots but Clematis ‘Nelly Moser’ is far happier in partial shade so it’s a great choice for a north-facing wall. Indeed, its fabulous pyjama-stripe pink and white flowers can fade in strong sunshine. It still needs a little sun but as long as your wall isn’t in deep shade throughout the day, ‘Nelly Moser’ will be fine, and it can reach 12 feet high and 4 feet wide. Tidy up in spring, trimming the stem tips to a pair of healthy buds, then reduce some stems directly after flowering to control size.

9. Best Clematis for Fall Color

We often think of clematis as summer bloomers but there are varieties that will bring flowers to your backyard in every month of the year. Clematis ‘Ernest Markham’ does flower in summer, but it carries on blooming into October, when its magenta-pink tones are a vibrant addition to orange fall color. The flowers are big, too, growing up to 6 inches across, and the vine can grow to 15 feet high, so you get plenty of them. Chop the lot back to 8 inches above the ground in early spring for a repeat performance every year. Zones 4–8.

10. Best Clematis for a Lazy Gardener

If you can’t be bothered with the faff of hard-pruning clematis then tying in new shoots each year, Clematis ‘Piilu’ is for you. It doesn’t need much pruning at all – just snip off faded blooms, and give it a tidy-up in spring to get rid of any dead stems. Your minimal efforts will be richly rewarded with two flushes of 3-inch flowers. The first burst, in late spring, typically brings double flowers with lots of petals, while the second in late summer has single blooms with fewer petals. Zones 4–9.

The Tricks to Growing Clematis Successfully

Clematis evolved in open woodland where they scrambled up through the tree canopy to get to the sunshine. So the secret to success with clematis care is simply to replicate the plant's natural needs.

While most clematis need a sunny spot with at least six hours of sunshine a day, they like to have cool roots as if they were shaded beneath a layer of woodland shrubs. That’s easy to achieve: put a layer of pebbles on the ground around your plant, or push a slate at an angle into the soil to create a patch of shade.

Another option is to position your clematis where its base will be shaded by another shrub.

Because of the rich conditions created by all the leaf fall in a woodland, clematis like a fairly rich, moist but well-drained soil. So, when you plant, mix soil improver or well-rotted manure into the soil. A good trick is to mix this organic matter into the soil beneath the spot your clematis will grow, rather than in the area all around it, to encourage the roots to grow downwards, further helping to keep them cool.

While many folk grow clematis up a wall or fence, it’s important to plant it at least a foot away – preferably two – from that structure. That’s because the soil up against that boundary is often very dry as it’s sheltered from rainfall.

One last tip for lots more flowers is to plant your new clematis 2–3 inches deeper than the soil surface in the pot. That will encourage the plant to throw out plenty of new stems from the base, for triple the blooms.

When it comes to vines, sweet autumn clematis (Clematis terniflora) has it all. It grows fast, climbs fences and walls, and offers masses of small, white, starry blossoms – so many that it’s hard to spot the leathery leaves beneath. Blossoms also attract pollinators, like bees and butterflies. These beautiful flowers can fill an entire wall and the sweet smell will fill your garden.

The good news is that sweet autumn clematis care is not difficult to grow, but it pays to use a bit of caution with this plant. Despite all of its wonderful benefits and beauty, this vine can cause big problems for gardeners and ecosystems if you plant it in the wrong place. Sweet autumn clematis is considered an invasive vine in many states in the eastern half of the United States.

Always check to see if non-native species are problematic to grow in your area before planting them. If you live in a locale where sweet autumn clematis is considered safe to grow, follow the guidelines below for beautiful blooming vines. Plus, I'll share tips to contain the growth of this potentially aggressive plant.

Sweet Autumn Clematis Care

Sweet autumn clematis is about as far from a picky plant as one can get. It thrives in USDA growing zones 4-9, and shoots up a few feet every year, growing to 30 feet (10 m) tall. Established plants can grow as much as 10 feet (3 m) a year.

These are twining vines. They twist their stems and leaf stalks around a support to climb it. Give sweet autumn clematis something to hold onto, like this lovely white arbor from Amazon.

Sweet autumn clematis is happy in full sun, but also in partial shade and tolerates any well-drained soil. Just as most flowers are waning in late summer and fall, the sweet autumn clematis vine lights up the garden with its abundant blossoms.

Planting

Keep in mind the mature size of this vine. It will become massive and the time to put a support structure in place is before planting. A wall or fence works well, but so will a strong trellis or even a lamp post.

Sweet autumn clematis prefers having its head in the sun and its roots in the shade. For the best results, select a planting site with at least 6 hours of sun a day, if possible, and make sure that the soil drains well. Install other garden plants at its base to provide shade to the roots. Mulching works, too.

Watering & Fertilizing

It will come as no surprise that even an easy-care vine like the sweet autumn clematis requires water. It needs about an inch (2.5 cm) a week during the growing season. You can keep the soil moist and the roots cool by applying an organic mulch, like this one from Amazon, around the base all growing season.

It is not necessary to irrigate during dormancy, nor should you fertilize your clematis after the leaves fall. Instead, in the spring apply a low-nitrogen fertilizer, like this 4-10-10 formula you can get on Amazon. Repeat the application every few weeks through July.

Pruning

When it comes to sweet autumn clematis, maintenance is pretty much limited to pruning. But sweet autumn clematis is a big vine, so pruning it is a big job.

You need to prune your clematis to build strong growth and encourage abundant blooming. It’s also useful to balance out the shape of the plant. And pruning can also put the brakes on the invasive spread of this plant.

Pick up the pruners just after the flowers fade. Time the pruning so that it is after the flowering, but before the vine sets seed and prevents self-sowing. It’s also possible and popular to cut back the vine to a few feet above the ground every winter. This can lead to a growth spurt in spring and a profusion of flowers.

If you pass on pruning, your beautiful flowering vine may not look as beautiful the next year. Some vines end up a tangle of stems with bare stems at the bottom and flowers starting well up the plant.

Problems & Potential Issues

Sweet autumn clematis plants are susceptible to a fungal disease called clematis wilt. This includes sweet autumn clematis vines. Clematis wilt can kill the plant. If the vine leaves start looking withered or dark, it’s a sign of wilt. Trim out and dispose of all affected foliage as quickly as possible after spotting the issue. That can often save the vine.

Other diseases that can impact sweet autumn clematis include leaf spot, rust, and powdery mildew. Garden pests like aphids, scale, and spider mites may also attack. Generally, these are not deadly and can be resolved with the appropriate fungicide or insecticide.

Sweet autumn clematis's invasive behavior is a problem in many states. This vine propagates very readily, but deadheading can help. When you deadhead you eliminate the possibility of the plant spreading via seeds.

You also need to watch your sweet autumn clematis closely to make sure it's not escaping your garden bed or spreading to other parts of the garden where you don't want it to grow.

Instead of planting the potentially invasive sweet autumn clematis, opt for a beautiful native lookalike. Clematis virginiana is almost identical and blooms around the same time in late summer to early fall. It's hardy in USDA zones 4-8, and you can find this lovely native clematis on Amazon.

Adding perennial flowering vines to your garden is an excellent way to add dependable height and dimension to ornamental plantings. From ornate arbors to trailing vines that cover entire walls, the options, in terms of design, are truly limitless. One popular garden vine, clematis, grows in a wide range of shapes, colors, and flower patterns. However, some cultivars are more popular than others. Jackman clematis vines are especially known for their ornamental use in the flower garden and bright, showy profusion of striking violet-blue flowers. But, what is a jackman clematis?

What is a Jackman Clematis?

First introduced in 1862, the jackmanii clematis vine is named after a nurseryman named George Jackman. From early spring throughout summer, vigorous blooms consistently cover the plant, creating a spectacular garden display. This characteristic makes jackman hybrid clematis an excellent choice for perennial flower borders, even in colder USDA growing zones. At maturity, these deciduous vines can quickly grow to reach heights of up to 10 ft. (3 m). 

Note: Like many ornamental plants, clematis vines are considered to be highly toxic. If you’re growing jackman clematis vines, you should always take great care to ensure the safety of children, pets, and other visitors to the garden. 

Jackmanii Clematis Care

If you’re wishing to grow jackmanii clematis, you’ll first need to research the plant’s specific requirements. Depending upon the variety, ideal conditions for clematis can vary greatly. In selecting a location, look for well amended soil with good drainage. Jackmanii clematis vine will grow best in an area where the top portion of the plant will receive full sun, and the bottom portion and root zone will be shaded. You can keep the root zone cool by shading it with other perennial plants nearby, or by adding mulch to the flower bed. 

Jackmanii clematis care also requires that its vines are provided with a trellis or other strong garden support structure on which to climb. 

Since this type of clematis will only bloom on new growth, pruning will be required to encourage strong blooms season after season. This is most often done in late winter, while the plant is still in its period of dormancy. Hard pruning, back to about 1 ft. (30 cm.) from ground level, often yields the best results. 

Controlling Traveler’s Joy clematis may become necessary if you find this vine on your property. This Clematis species is invasive in the U.S. and is especially widespread in the Pacific Northwest. Without good control, the vine can take over areas, blocking out sunlight and even bringing down branches and small trees with its weight.

What is Traveler’s Joy Vine?

Also known as Old Man’s Beard and Traveler’s Joy clematis, this plant is officially termed Clematis vitalba. It is a deciduous vine that flowers in the summer, producing creamy, white, or light greenish-white blooms. In the fall they produce fluffy heads of seeds.

Traveler’s Joy clematis is a climbing, woody vine. It can grow vines as long as 100 feet (30.5 m). Native to Europe and Africa, it is considered an invasive weed in much of the U.S.

The best growing environment for Traveler’s Joy is soil that's chalky or rich in limestone and calcium, fertile, and well-draining. It prefers temperate, moist conditions.

In the U.S., it often crops up on forest edges or in areas that have been disturbed by construction.

Controlling Traveler’s Joy Plant

While in its native range Traveler’s Joy is often used ornamentally, but it creates a lot of problems in the U.S. Clematis weed control may be necessary for your area for several reasons. The vines can grow so tall they block out sunlight for other plants, the vines can climb trees and shrubs (their weight-breaking branches), and they can quickly destroy understory trees and shrubs in forests.

To avoid herbicides, you will have to stick with mechanical means of managing this weed. If organic herbicides are necessary, consult with your local university extension service first.

Cutting down and destroying this vine is possible but it can be time-consuming and energy-draining. Catch it early and remove plants and roots in winter.

In places like New Zealand, there has been some success using sheep to control Traveler’s Joy, so if you have livestock, let them have at it. Goats are known for their “weed eating” too.

Studies are currently underway to determine if there are any insects can be used to control Traveler's Joy Clematis.

Adding height to the flower garden is an excellent way to provide interest and dimension. Planting different clematis vines is an easy way for growers to add a vibrant pop of color that will last for many growing seasons to come. However, different clematis vines will have varying requirements for growth. Rather than purchasing on an impulse, it is wise to research clematis plant types well before planting them into the growing space to ensure that their needs are well met.

Clematis Plant Types

Long-lived perennial clematis vines are beloved in the flower garden for their wide range of bright colors and interesting flower shapes. Coming in both single and double flower forms, clematis flowers can easily complement established flower borders.

Though the hardiness of clematis vines will vary depending on the location and the type planted, growers seldom have trouble finding a variety that will thrive in the garden. The vine’s growth rate and mature height will also vary greatly depending upon the types of clematis planted.

Regardless of the varieties of clematis planted, required growing conditions will be similar. While these vines do prefer a location that receives full sun, their roots do prefer a cooler, shaded location. This makes them an ideal companion for planting with ornamental perennial shrubs, such as hydrangeas. Trellis preferences may also vary from one plant to another. Though some clematis varieties produce climbing vines, others grow upwards through the use of tendrils.

Popular Clematis Varieties

Clematis varieties can generally be divided into three types: those that bloom on new growth (Type 1), those which bloom on both (Type 2), and those that bloom on old wood (Type 3). Understanding the needs of different clematis vines will determine the number of flowers that growers can expect each season.

Gardeners living in cold regions may prefer varieties blooming on new wood, as winter cold can cause damage to plants. While evergreen types of clematis do not generally require pruning, deciduous varieties of clematis will require yearly maintenance. Each clematis plant type will require different pruning techniques in order to ensure the best results.

Here are some popular varieties of clematis to add in your garden:

Type 1

• Armand clematis (Clematis armandii)
• Downy clematis (C. macropetala)
• Alpine clematis (C. alpina)
• Anemone clematis (C. montana)

Type 2

• Clematis lanuginosa ‘Candida’
• Florida clematis (C. florida)
• ‘Barbara Jackman’
• ‘Ernest Markham’
• ‘Hagley Hybrid’
• ‘Henryi’
• ‘Jackmanii’
• ‘Mrs. Cholmondeley’
• ‘Nelly Moser’
• ‘Niobe’
• ‘Ramona’
• ‘Duchess of Edinburgh’

Type 3

• Woodbine (C. virginiana)
• Orange Peel clematis (C. tangutica)
• ‘Rooguchi’
• Texas clematis (C. texensis)
• ‘Duchess of Albany’
• Italian Clematis (C. viticella)
• ‘Perle d’Azur’
• ‘Royal Velours’

If you're looking for a native flowering vine which thrives in a variety of light conditions, Virgin's Bower clematis (Clematis virginiana) may be the answer. Although the Virgin's Bower vine doesn't produce the large, showy flowers of other clematis varieties, like Nelly Moser or Jackmanii, it's one of the few vines which blooms proficiently in the shade.

Virgin's Bower Facts

Virgin's Bower clematis is native to eastern United States and Canada. This perennial, deciduous vine can be found growing in moist lowlands, thickets, and woodlands, especially those bordering streams and ponds. Virgin's Bower vine readily climbs natural elements like trees and shrubs. It can also spread along the surface of the ground, forming a dense foliage cover.

The Virgin's Bower vine has several common names including Italian clematis, woodbine, and devil's darning needle. Like other types of clematis, it climbs by wrapping its leaf petioles around an upright support. Here are some additional Virgin's Bower facts:

• USDA Hardiness Zones: 3 to 8
• Light Requirements: Full sun to shade
• Water Requirements: Moist soil
• Bloom time: Late summer or early fall
• Flower color: Pure white
• Height: Climbs to 20 feet (6 m.) 

How to Grow Virgin's Bower

Virgin's Bower clematis is perfect for naturalizing those woody or wilder areas of the garden. It's fairly deer resistant and will readily grow along manmade structures like fences and trellises. The fragrant white flowers attract hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees while the dense green foliage serves as nesting sites for birds. All parts of the plant are toxic to mammals. 

The Virgin's Bower vine prefers a rich, fertile loamy or silty soil with average to above average moisture levels. It grows best in partial shade. Virgin's Bower care is much easier than with other types of clematis and it has no reported insect or disease problems.

Is Virgin’s Bower Clematis Invasive?

Virgin's Bower is a fast-growing clematis which can aggressively spread across the garden. It propagates easily from wind-dispersed seeds and by the asexual formation of suckers. Luckily, these can be easily controlled in the garden setting:

Unlike other types of clematis, Virgin's bower is dioecious. Seed production requires both a male and female plant. To prevent seed formation, choose only male plants or purchase one Virgin's Bower vine and propagate through asexual means.

Virgin's Bower is a species of clematis that blooms only on new wood, so radical pruning won't affect flower production. It can be lightly pruned to control its shape anytime during the growing season or trimmed back to 8 to 12 inches (20-31 cm.) above the soil line in late fall or early spring.

Despite the need to control its vigorous growth, this clematis is not considered harmful to trees. With control measures, they can be a wonderful addition to a naturalized garden. Their profuse delicate white blossoms add an innocent charm to any fall-flowering garden bed.

Swamp leather flowers are climbing vines native to the southeastern U.S. They have unique, fragrant flowers and simple, green foliage that comes back reliably every spring. In the warm climates of the U.S., they make a great climbing native plant alternative to other invasive fragrant vines. Keep reading to learn more about swamp leather flower care and growing swamp leather flowers in the garden.

Swamp Leather Flower Info

The swamp leather flower (Clematis crispa) is a type of clematis that goes by many names, including blue jasmine, curly clematis, curly flower, and southern leather flower. It is a climbing vine, usually growing between 6 and 10 feet (2-3 m.) in length. Native to the southeastern United States, it grows as a perennial in USDA zones 6 to 9. The plant dies down to the ground in the winter and comes back with new growth in the spring. In midspring, it produces unique flowers that bloom throughout the growing season until the autumn frost. The flowers are actually petal-less and are instead made up of four large, fused sepals that split and curve back at the ends (a little like a half-peeled banana). These flowers come in shades of purple, pink, blue, and white, and they are slightly fragrant.

How to Grow Swamp Leather Flowers

Swamp leather flowers like moist soil, and they grow best in woods, ditches, and along streams and ponds. As well as moist conditions, the vines prefer their soil to be rich and somewhat acidic. They also like partial to full sun. The vine itself is thin and delicate, which is very good at climbing. Swamp leather flowers do very well scaling walls and fences, but they can also be grown in containers, as long as they receive enough water. The vines will die down with the first frost of autumn, but new growth will appear in the spring. No pruning is necessary other than to remove any leftover dead growth.

Evergreen clematis is a vigorous ornamental vine, and its leaves stay on the plant all year-round. It is usually grown for the fragrant white flowers that appear on these clematis vines in spring. If you are interested in growing evergreen clematis, read on for all the information you’ll need to get started.

Evergreen Clematis Vines

Popular in the Pacific Northwest, these vines climb by twisting stems around any support you set out for them. They can grow to 15 feet (5 m.) tall and 10 feet (3 m.) wide over time. The glossy leaves on evergreen clematis vines are some 3 inches (8 cm.) long and 1 inch (2.5 cm.) wide. They are pointed and droop downward. In the spring, white blossoms appear on the vines. If you start growing evergreen clematis, you’ll love the sweet-smelling flowers, each 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) wide and arranged in clusters.

Growing Evergreen Clematis

Evergreen clematis vines thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 9. If you take care to find an appropriate site when planting an evergreen clematis, you’ll find the vine is low maintenance. These evergreen vines do best if you plant them in full or partial sun, as long as the vine base remains in shade. Planting an evergreen clematis in well-drained soil is essential, and it’s best to work organic compost into the soil. Evergreen clematis growing works best if you plant the vine in soil with a high organic content. When planting an evergreen clematis, you can help the vine by applying several inches (8 cm.) of straw or leaf mulch on the soil above the vine’s root area. This keeps the roots cool in summers and warm in winters.

Evergreen Clematis Care

Once you get your vine appropriately planted, you need to concentrate on cultural care. The most time-consuming part of evergreen clematis growing involves pruning. Once the flowers have faded from the vine, proper evergreen clematis care includes trimming out all of the dead vine wood. Most of this is located on the inside of the vines, so you’ll have to spend some time to get it all. If your vine gets stringy over time, it may need rejuvenating. If this happens, evergreen clematis care is easy: just cut the entire vine off at ground level. It will grow back quickly.

That perfect spot we select for our plants doesn't always work out. Some plants, like hostas, seem to benefit from a brutal uprooting and root disturbance; they’ll spring back quickly and flourish as new plants throughout your flower bed. Clematis, however, does not like to be messed with once it has rooted, even if it is struggling where it is. Continue reading to learn how to transplant clematis successfully.

Can I Transplant A Clematis?

Replanting a clematis vine requires a little extra work and patience. Once rooted, a clematis will struggle if it is uprooted. Sometimes, replanting a clematis vine is necessary because of a move, home improvement or just because the plant is not growing well in its present location. Even with special care, transplanting will be very stressful for the clematis and you can expect it to take about a year for the plant to recover from this trauma. Be patient and don’t panic if you don't see much growth or improvement in the clematis for the first season as it settles in its new location.

When to Move Clematis Vines

Clematis vines grow best in moist, well-draining, slightly alkaline soil. Their vines, leaves, and flowers need at least six hours of sun each day, but their roots need to be shaded. If your clematis is struggling from too much shade or suffering in a location with acidic soil, and soil amendments like limestone or wood ash have not helped, it may be time to move your clematis to a better location. The best time for clematis transplanting is in spring, just as the plant is waking up from winter. Sometimes because of unexpected events, it's not possible to wait until spring to transplant clematis. In such a case, make sure you do not transplant your clematis on a hot, dry, sunny day, as this will only stress the plant and make the transition harder for it. Fall is another acceptable time for replanting a clematis vine. Just be sure to do it early enough in the fall so that the roots will have time to settle in before winter. Generally, like evergreens, you shouldn't plant or transplant clematis any later than October 1.

Clematis Transplanting

When replanting a clematis vine, dig the hole it will be going in. Make sure it's wide and deep enough to accommodate all the roots you can get. Break up the dirt that you’ll be refilling the hole with and mix in some organic material, like worm castings or sphagnum peat moss. You can also mix in some garden lime, if you are concerned about acidic soil. Next, depending on how long your clematis has been planted and how much roots you can expect, fill a large pail or wheelbarrow halfway full of water to put the clematis in when you dig it up. If possible, you should transport it to its new location in this water. I swear by root stimulators, like Root & Grow, when I transplant anything. Adding a root stimulator to the water in the pail or wheelbarrow will help reduce the transplant shock for your clematis. Trim your clematis back to one to two feet from the ground. This may cause you to have to wait even longer for certain species to return to their former glory, but it will also make it easier to transport and direct the plant’s energy to the roots, not the vines. Then, dig widely around the clematis to maintain as much of the root as you can. As soon as they are dug up, get the roots into the water and root stimulator. If you're not going far, let the clematis sit in the water and root stimulator for a little while. Then place the roots in the hole and slowly fill with your soil mix. Be sure to tamp the soil down around the roots to prevent air pockets. When replanting a clematis vine, plant it a little deeper than you would normally plant things. The crown and base shoots of clematis will actually benefit from being sheltered under a loose layer of soil. Now all that’s left to do is water and wait patiently as your clematis slowly adjusts to its new home.

A happy, healthy clematis vine produces an amazing mass of colorful blooms, but if something isn’t quite right, you may be worried about a clematis vine not blooming. It isn’t always easy to determine why clematis is not blooming, or why in the world getting clematis to flower is sometimes such a challenge. Read on for a few possible causes.

Reasons for Non-Blooming Clematis

Figuring out why a clematis is not blooming is the first step in fixing the issue. Fertilizer – Improper fertilization is often the reason for a non-blooming clematis. Usually, the problem isn’t lack of fertilizer, but too much, which may produce lush foliage and few blooms. As a general rule, clematis benefits from a handful of 5-10-10 fertilizer in the spring, along with a layer of compost. Apply a water-soluble fertilizer once or twice during spring and summer. Be sure the plant isn’t getting too much nitrogen, which may be the case if your clematis is located near a heavily fertilized lawn. Age – Be patient if your clematis is new; give the plant some time to establish and develop healthy roots. Clematis can take a year or two to produce blooms and may take a bit longer to come to full maturity. On the other hand, an older plant may simply be at the end of its lifespan. Light – “Head in the sun, feet in the shade.” This is a critical rule for healthy clematis vines. If your vine isn’t doing well, protect the roots by planting a couple of perennial plants around the base of the vine, or prop a couple of wooden shingles around the stem. If your plant has previously bloomed well, check to see if a nearby shrub or tree is blocking light. Possibly, a quick trim is needed to allow sunlight to reach the vine. Pruning – Improper pruning is a common reason for no blooms on clematis, but it’s important to understand the needs of your particular plant. Some clematis varieties bloom on the previous year’s vines, so heavy pruning in spring will prevent new blooms from developing. Other varieties bloom on the current year’s vine, so they can be cut to the ground every spring. If you aren’t sure, don’t prune the vine until later in the spring, when you can easily determine new growth from older, dead growth. Then, prune accordingly.

Clematis is a popular addition to flower gardens, and for good reason. It’s a perennial that climbs effortlessly and should reliably produce cascades of bright blooms for years. When exactly can you expect these blooms? There’s no easy answer to this question, as the wide range of varieties bloom at such different times and for such different durations. Keep reading for a basic rundown of clematis vine flowering times.

When Do Clematis Bloom?

There are a huge number of clematis species, all with slightly different blooming idiosyncrasies. Some clematis bloom times are in the spring, some in summer, some in autumn, and some are continuous through multiple seasons. Some clematis also have two distinct blooming periods. Even if you do plant a specific variety for its bloom time, sunlight, USDA zone, and soil quality can cause it to deviate from your expectations. There are some basic guidelines, however. Spring-blooming clematis species include:

• alpina
• armandii
• cirrhosa
• macropetala
• montana

Summer-blooming and fall-flowering clematis include the following species:

• crispa
• x durandii
• heracleifolia
• integrifolia
• orientalis
• recta
• tangutica
• terniflora
• texensis
• viticella

The florida species blooms once in the spring, stops producing, then blooms again in the autumn.

Blooming Season for Clematis

Blooming season for clematis can be extended if you plant the right variety. Some specific cultivars have been bred to bloom continuously through the summer and fall. These hybrid clematis include:

• Allanah
• Gypsy Queen
• Jackmanii
• Star of India
• Ville de Lyon
• Polish Spirit
• Red Cardinal
• Comtesse de Bouchard

Planting one of these is a good way to ensure clematis vine flowering for an extended period of time. Another good strategy is to overlap multiple varieties. Even if you can’t exactly pinpoint your clematis bloom times, planting a spring variety near summer and fall varieties should make for continuous flowering throughout the growing season.

Gardens can begin to look tired and faded as summer ends, but nothing brings color and life back to the landscape like a luscious, late blooming clematis. While autumn blooming clematis varieties aren’t as plentiful as those that bloom early in the season, there are enough choices to add incredible beauty and interest as the gardening season winds down. Late blooming clematis plants are those that start blooming in mid to late summer, and then continue blooming until the first frost. Keep reading to learn about a few of the best fall blooming clematis.

Clematis Plants for Fall

Below are some common types of clematis that bloom in autumn:

• ‘Alba Luxurians’ is a type of fall flowering clematis. This vigorous climber reaches heights of up to 12 feet (4 m.). ‘Alba Luxurians’ displays grayish green leaves and big, white, green-tipped flowers, often with hints of pale lavender.
• ‘Duchess of Albany’ is a unique clematis that produces midsized pink, tulip-like flowers from summer until fall. Each petal is marked with a distinctive, dark purple stripe.
• ‘Silver Moon’ is appropriately named for the pale silvery lavender flowers that bloom from early summer to early autumn. Yellow stamens provide contrast for these pale, 6 to 8 inch (15-20 cm.) blooms.
• ‘Avante Garde’ puts on a show in summer and provides big, gorgeous blooms well into autumn. This variety is valued for its unique colors – burgundy with pink ruffles in the center.
• ‘Madame Julia Correvon’ is a stunner with intense, wine-red to deep pink, four-petaled blossoms. This late-blooming clematis puts on a show throughout summer and fall.
• ‘Daniel Deronda’ is a fall flowering clematis that produces gigantic, purple, star-shaped fall flowering clematis blooms in early summer, followed by a second flowering of somewhat smaller flowers in late summer through fall.
• ‘The President’ produces huge, deep bluish violet flowers in late spring and early summer, with a second flush in autumn. The big seed heads continue to provide interest and texture after the blooms have faded.

It’s no wonder clematis is called “Queen of the Vines.” There are over 250 varieties of the woody vine, offering blossoms in colors ranging from purple to mauve to cream. You can select a clematis cultivar with tiny flowers only ¼ inch (6 mm.) across or opt for one offering huge, 10 inch (25 cm.) diameter blossoms. This versatile flowering vine can provide quick and beautiful ground cover, but it can also climb up almost anything, including trellises, garden walls, pergolas, poles, or trees. All you need to do is learn how to train a clematis to climb. Read on for information about training clematis vines.

Training Clematis Vines

Some vines climb by wrapping tightly twining stems or aerial roots around supports. Not clematis. If you want to know how to train a clematis to climb, first understand their climbing mechanism. Clematis manage to climb trees and poles by twining their leaf petiole around appropriately sized support structures. The petioles are not large enough to wrap around thick objects. Experts suggest that support structures with a diameter of ¾ inch (2 cm.) or less are ideal for growing clematis on a pole or wall.

Growing Clematis on a Pole

If your plans include growing clematis on a pole or similar structure, consider using a thick fishing line to provide support for the plant. The plant usually is sold with a small pole holding up the vine. Leave that pole in place as you position the plant in the soil near the base of the pole. Attach the fishing line so that it runs up the pole. If you use a fishing line to provide support for clematis, knot the line every foot (31 cm.) or so. These knots prevent the vine from slipping down the line. Fishing line also works for clematis growing on trees.

Clematis Growing on Trees

Trees are a special case when it comes to organizing support for clematis. The bark itself can provide the grip-holds clematis requires. Select a species of tree with rough bark for best results, like an oak. You may still want to add fishing line to provide more grips. Consider planting another vine on the tree in addition to the clematis. Ivy or similar plants climb on their own and can provide excellent support for clematis growing on trees.

Clematis vines are consistent garden performers that are relatively tolerant of a variety of conditions once mature. If that is the case then, why are clematis leaves yellow even during the growing season? A clematis with yellow leaves may be prey to several insect pests or the soil nutrient content might not be sufficient. In most cases, it is not a cultural problem but a few notes on what makes clematis leaves turn yellow might help you sort out the root cause.

What Makes Clematis Leaves Turn Yellow?

The delicate trailing, climbing stems, and leaves of clematis create a fairytale look draped over a trellis or trained to an arbor. Once the elegant flowers appear, the entire vision is of dancing blooms and a riot of color and texture. If a clematis vine has yellow leaves, you might look first to the soil and drainage, site, and lighting. If correct cultivation conditions exist, the problem may be pests or even disease. There is a saying that clematis plants like to have their heads in the sun and their feet in the shade. In other words, clematis needs at least six hours of full sun to flower but the root area should be well mulched or have protective plantings around the base of the vine. Soil should be well draining and not prone to hold moisture. Compost worked into at least 8 inches (20 cm.) of soil prior to planting can enhance drainage and add important nutrients. Air movement is also important for healthy plants. Nutrient causes of yellowing clematis leaves include iron or magnesium deficiency. Iron deficiency means the pH is high. Amend with iron chelate. Magnesium deficiency can be taken care of by mixing 1 teaspoon (5 ml.) of Epsom salts with 1 gallon (4 L.) of water. Use the mixture four times per month to restore the leaves to their glorious green.

Additional Causes of Yellowing Clematis Leaves

Once you know your site and conditions are correct for the plant, it is time to take a look at other causes of yellowing clematis leaves.

Diseases

Even in areas with adequate drainage, fungal issues can take hold. A variety of rust diseases can cause yellowish spores on leaves and lesions over the foliar surface. Watering only at the base and creating a ventilated plant will help prevent these. Tomato ringspot virus is transmitted through nematodes and infected plants. Any infected plants need to be removed.

Weather

High heat can cause a clematis with yellow leaves that wilt and drop. The heat stress is usually not fatal, and the plant will come back as usual the following year.

Pests

Insects are common garden pests, and they can affect even the most stoic plant. When a clematis vine has yellow leaves and all cultural causes have been examined, it may simply be some bad bugs. Mites are the usual suspects. Their sucking behavior causes the leaves to bleach and yellow. Usually, a good horticultural oil or soap sprayed every few days will take care of these tiny pests. They can be hard to see but placing a piece of white paper under the foliage and shaking a vine will help with this. The tiny black specks are your culprits. Most of the causes of leaf yellowing are easy to prevent or remove, and you will have your spectacular vine back in tiptop shape in no time.

Clematis is one of the most versatile and showy blooming vines available. The variety of flower size and shape is staggering with new cultivars and collectables coming out annually. You can actually have a clematis show nearly year-round if you avail yourself of the winter, spring and summer-flowering clematis varieties. Summer-blooming clematis are not as common as the spring bloomers, but there are some exciting varieties that can have you enjoying cascades of vines and flowers until fall. Vertical color shows provide zing to the landscape and clematis is one of the best plants to grow for such displays. Summer-flowering clematis varieties may bloom only in June and July, or they may last until fall. The types of clematis that bloom in summer are divided into vining and non-vining types. Each has a unique growth habit, yet still the stunning colorful blooms. If you are tired of your spring bloomers peeking out by spring's end and want clematis flowers for summer, try some of the following species.

Vining Summer-Blooming Clematis

Vining varieties are climbing and will require support. Some examples of summer clematis types that are vining are Sweet Autumn and Durand. Sweet Autumn has tiny flowers that are sweetly scented. Durand is a big bloomer with lavender blue flowers that are 4 inches (10 cm.) across. If you want even bigger flowers, try Elsa Spath. Her blooms get 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm.) across on 8 to 12 inch (20-31 cm.) long vines. Some other notable vining summer-blooming clematis are:

• Henryi
• Jackmani
• Mrs. Cholmondeley

Non-Vining Summer Clematis Types

Non-vining clematis are useful in a perennial garden or as stand-alone specimens in containers. Instead of long vining stems, these plants produce bushy compact forms.

• Solitary clematis is a diminutive example of bushy summer clematis types. It is only 18 to 24 inches (46-61 cm.) tall and wide and has lavender flowers with ivory centers. It will bloom well into fall.
• Tube clematis has blue funnel-shaped blooms, a 3 to 4 foot tall (1 m.) bush and blooms in August until early fall.
• Mongolian Gold blooms in late summer. It is drought tolerant and cold hardy. The plant gets 3 feet (1 m.) high and is covered in a mass of 1 inch (2.5 cm.) deep yellow, fragrant flowers.

Other Types of Clematis That Bloom in Summer

Enjoying clematis flowers for summer also requires the proper pruning. Most summer bloomers get pruned in late winter to early spring. The amount of material you take off depends on the type of plant. Those with large flowers are pruned hard to 18 inches (46 cm.) from the soil line. The early summer varieties should be pruned lightly and selectively. Some types of clematis that bloom in summer and get a hard pruning would be:

• Gypsy Queen
• Jackmani
• Mrs. Cholmondeley
• Rouge Cardinal

Those that need light pruning might be:

• Ville de Lyon
• Niobe
• Madame Edouard Andre

Oddly, one summer bloomer, Ramona, needs no pruning to produce its sky blue 6 to 8 inch (15-20 cm.) flowers.

Tough and easy to grow, spectacular spring-blooming clematis is native to the extreme climates of northeastern China and Siberia. This durable plant survives temperatures in punishing climates as low as USDA plant hardiness zone 3.

Clematis Vines for Spring

Spring blooming clematis usually blooms in midspring in most climates, but if you live in a mild climate, you'll probably see blooms in late winter. As an added benefit, even the spent blooms of spring-blooming clematis add beauty to the garden with attractive, silvery, fluffy seed heads that last throughout autumn. If you're in the market for clematis, it's helpful to know that spring-blooming varieties fall into two main species: Clematis alpina, also known as Austrian clematis, and Clematis macropetala, sometimes referred to as Downy clematis. Each includes several irresistible, cold-hardy choices.

Clematis Alpina

Clematis alpina is a deciduous vine with lacy, pale green leaves; droopy, bell-shaped blooms and creamy white stamens. If you're looking for white flowers, consider ‘Burford White.' Gorgeous clematis varieties in the blue family, which produce blue, sky blue, and pale blue flowers include:

• ‘Pamela Jackman'
• ‘Frances Rivis'
• ‘Frankie'

Additional types of spring-flowering clematis include:

• ‘Constance,' a cultivar that provides stunning reddish pink flowers
• ‘Ruby' produces blooms in a lovely shade of rose-pink
• ‘Willy' is favored for its pale pink, white centered blooms

Clematis Macropetala

While Clematis alpina blooms are lovely in their simplicity, Clematis macropetala plants boast feathery leaves and masses of ornate, bell-shaped, double blooms that resemble a dancer's frilly tutu. For example, clematis vines for spring in the Macropetala grouping include:

• ‘Maidenwell Hall,' which produces semi-double, bluish lavender blooms
• ‘Jan Linkmark' offers rich, violet-purple blooms
• If your color scheme includes pink, you can't go wrong with ‘Markham's Pink,' notable for its semi-double pink blooms. ‘Rosy O'Grady' is a subtle pinkish mauve with rosy outer petals
• Try ‘White Swan' or ‘White Wings' if you're in the market for handsome, semi-double blooms in creamy white

There are a couple of ways to classify clematis. One is by pruning group, and the other is as an evergreen or tender vine. There are also bush clematis plants, which are different from the vine variety. Whichever type you choose to grow, you can't do better than a glorious clematis color show in your garden. Clematis is a familiar flowering plant with a great diversity of form, color and complexity. The plants have different bloom sites, so pruning by Class is important. Additionally, it is best to know if you have a bush or vine clematis, as support needs will vary and they should be trained when young. For year around greenery, an evergreen clematis can't be beat.

What Clematis Variety Do I Have?

You may have inherited a plant and have no idea what kind is in your garden. This happens to new home owners quite frequently and they have to wing it on the care and pruning of the plant. The pruning class is the most important to know. This is because different types of clematis bloom off of different levels of growth. Class 1 clematis bloom off of old wood while Class 3 plants bloom off of new wood. The Class 2 clematis bloom off both old and new wood and produce blooms twice in the season. That's why it's important to know the pruning class or you may prune your clematis at the wrong time and cut off the wood that was supposed to produce the magnificent flowers. If in doubt, you will have to experiment by trimming at least a couple of vines and then watching to see if they bloom.

Clematis Varieties by Form

The classic climbing clematis vines are probably most familiar to gardeners. However, there are also bush clematis plants that grow as shrubs or in upright forms. These grow 20 inches to 3 feet (50 to 91 cm.) depending on species. Mongolian Snowflakes, Tube and Fremont's clematis are examples of these. Trailing or rock garden clematis produce stems that crawl along the soil surface and make attractive ground covers. Some clematis varieties in this form would be Ground, Mongolian Gold and Sugarbowl. Beautiful but easy to grow climbing clematis vines such as Bees Jubilee, with mauve blooms, or C. macropetala, with blue flowers, produce blooms up to 5 inches (12.5 cm.) across. Crimson Ville de Lyon and magenta C. viticella ‘Grandiflora Sanguinea' will add vibrancy and punch to the landscape.

Evergreen Forms of Clematis

Cultural care of evergreen clematis is similar to deciduous forms. The beauty of these hardy vines is their glossy arrow-shaped leaves, which persist year around and form vibrant shields and accents. Evergreen clematis bloom in late winter to early spring and in temperate climates is one of the first vines to flower. The variety is Armand's clematis and it produces heavenly white blooms with a gentle fragrance. Evergreen clematis is in pruning group 1. As with other climbing clematis vines, the plant will require training and support but is otherwise a no fuss alternative to the deciduous varieties.

Clematis is a hardy vine that produces masses of stunning flowers in the garden with solid shades and bi-colors ranging from white or pale pastels to deep purples and reds. In most climates, Clematis blooms from spring until the first frost in autumn. What about potted container plants though? Read on to learn more.

Can You Grow Clematis in Containers?

Growing Clematis in pots is slightly more involved, as potted Clematis plants require more attention than in-ground plants. However, Clematis container growing is definitely possible, even in climates with chilly winters.

Clematis for Containers

Many varieties of Clematis are suitable for growing in containers, including the following:

• “Nelly Moser,” which produces purplish pink blooms
• “Polish Spirit,” with violet-blue flowers
• “The President,” which displays blooms in a rich shade of red
• “Sieboldii,” a dwarf variety with creamy white flowers and purple centers

Clematis Container Growing

Clematis performs best in large pots, especially if you live in a climate with chilly winters; the extra potting soil in a larger pot provides protection for the roots. Nearly any pot with a drainage hole is fine, but a ceramic or clay pot is likely to crack in freezing weather. Fill the container with a good quality, lightweight potting soil, then mix in a general-purpose, slow-release fertilizer according to manufacturer recommendations. As soon as the Clematis is planted, install a trellis or other support for the vine to climb. Don't wait until the plant is established because you may damage the roots.

Caring for Potted Clematis Plants

Clematis planted in a container requires regular irrigation because potting soil dries quickly. Check the plant every day, especially during hot, dry weather. Soak the potting mix whenever the top 1 or 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) feels dry. Fertilizer provides the nutrients Clematis needs to bloom throughout the season. Feed the plant with a general purpose, slow-release fertilizer every spring, then repeat once or twice through the growing season. If you prefer, you can feed the plant every other week, using a water-soluble fertilizer mixed according to label directions. Healthy Clematis plants usually don't require protection during the winter, although some varieties are more cold hardy than others. If you live in a cold, northern climate, a layer of mulch or compost will help protect the roots. You can also provide extra protection by moving the pot into a sheltered corner or near a protected wall.

Clematis plants are known as the “queen vines” and can be divided into three groups: early flowering, late flowering, and repeated bloomers. Clematis plants are hardy to USDA plant hardiness zone 3. Nothing adds elegance, beauty, or charm to a garden like clematis vines. Colors range from shades of pink, yellow, purple, burgundy, and white. Clematis plants are happy when their roots stay cool and their tops receive plenty of sunshine. Winter care of clematis plants includes deadheading and protection, depending on your climate. With a little care, your clematis in winter will do just fine and return with an abundance of blooms next season.

How to Prepare Clematis for Winter

Clematis winter preparation starts with snipping off spent blooms, also known as deadheading. Using sharp and clean garden scissors, cut off old blooms where they meet the stem. Be sure to clean up and dispose of all cuttings. Once the ground freezes or the air temperature drops to 25 degrees F. (-3 C.), it is important to place a generous layer of mulch around the base of the clematis. Straw, hay, manure, leaf mold, grass clippings, or commercial mulch is suitable. Pile the mulch up around the base of the clematis as well as the crown.

Can Clematis be Overwintered in Pots?

Overwintering clematis plants in pots is possible even in the coldest climates. If your container will not tolerate freezing temperatures, move it to a place where it will not freeze. If the clematis is healthy and in a freeze-safe container that is at least 2 inches (5 cm.) in diameter, you do not have to provide mulch. However, if your plant is not particularly healthy or not planted in a freeze-safe container, it is best to provide mulch around the outside of the container. Collect leaves from your yard in the fall and put them in bags. Place the bags around the pot to protect the plant. It's important to wait until after the pot has frozen to place the mulch bags. Contrary to what some people may think, it is not the freezing that harms the plant but the freeze-thaw-freeze cycles. Now that you know a little more about the winter care of clematis, you can put your mind at ease. The charming plants will sleep through the winter only to come back to life once warm temperatures return to fill the garden with beautiful blooms year after year.

Today's trend of using vertical space in the garden includes the use of a number of climbing and flowering plants. One widely used flowering specimen is the clematis, which may bloom in spring, summer, or fall depending on the variety. The diversity of plant types may leave you wondering when to prune clematis. Complicated instructions for pruning clematis vines can be found on the web, but many gardeners desire a simpler means of instruction. Follow these tips for pruning clematis and you will never lose a clematis bloom again.

Tips for Pruning Clematis

Before you get started, there are a couple tips for pruning clematis that you should know:

• Dead or damaged stems may be removed at any time when pruning clematis vines. Damaged plant parts will never be productive, so get rid of them as soon as they are noticed.
• Know when your clematis blooms. You may want to wait until the second year to prune clematis, especially if it is the large flowering variety. Always prune clematis when flowering is finished.

How and When to Trim Clematis

If you prune clematis immediately after bloom time is finished, you won't have to worry about removing next year's flowers. Prune clematis for shape at this time, removing up to one third of the plant, if needed. Avoid removing woody stems, if possible. Clematis pruning groups include those that flower on new growth and those that bloom on last year's woody stem. Once you're familiar with the bloom time of your clematis, you will be able to prune the vine before buds begin to develop. When deciding how and when to trim clematis, don't remove a developing bud. If you see buds developing when pruning clematis vines, you may be pruning at the wrong time.

Clematis Pruning Groups

• Flowers that bloom in spring grow on old wood. Blooms of this clematis developed during last year's growing season. Plants in this clematis pruning group should be pruned before the end of July to allow blooms for next year.
• Pruning clematis vines that flower in summer or fall should be done in early spring, as these flowers are produced on the current year's growth.
• Large flowering hybrids may produce a second set of blooms. Deadhead spent flowers for another series of blooms, though they will likely be smaller than the first, as these appear on new growth. When deadheading the first blooms, as much as 12 to 18 inches (31-46 cm.) of stem can be removed. This rejuvenates the plant and is often the best means of pruning clematis vines.

Clematis wilt is a devastating condition that causes clematis vines to shrivel and die, usually in early summer just as the plants are beginning to show vigorous growth. There is no chemical clematis wilt treatment, but there are several things you can do to help the plant survive. Continue reading to learn more about what causes clematis wilt and how to prevent it.

What is Clematis Wilt?

The first step in treating or preventing clematis wilting is becoming familiar with the issue and its causes. So what is clematis wilt? Clematis wilt, also called clematis leaf and stem spot, is a fungal disease that progresses rapidly. A careful observer may see black spots on the leaves and stems as the disease begins, but the symptoms often go undetected until the entire stem wilts and dies.

What Causes Clematis Wilt?

Learning what causes clematis wilt is important in its treatment and prevention as well. Clematis wilt occurs when a fungus infects a clematis stem near the soil line. The fungus causes lesions, which cut off the vine's flow of water through the stems, and all parts of the plant above the injury wilt and die. A variety of fungi can cause clematis wilt.

How to Prevent Wilt in Clematis

Keeping the plant healthy goes a long way toward preventing clematis wilt. Plant the vine in neutral to slightly alkaline soil in a location protected from strong winds that might damage the vines. The roots should be shaded or under a layer of mulch and the upper part of the vine needs full sun. When you plant the vine, bury it so that at least two buds along the stem are underground. This helps the vine develop a strong root system to nourish the plant. Keep the soil evenly moist to prevent stress. Water the soil rather than the vine, and water early in the day so that any moisture that splashes onto the plant will have plenty of time to dry before sunset. In addition, there are some small-flowering clematis vines that are resistant to clematis wilt, including Clematis macropetala, Clematis montana, Clematis viticella, and Clematis alpine.

Clematis Wilt Treatment

Damage is most often seen in early summer and during periods of damp weather. Prune out damaged parts of the vine to help prevent the spread of the fungus. Even when the vines are ravaged by the disease, the roots generally survive and the plant sends up new shoots the following season. Good fall cleanup is an important part of treating and preventing clematis wilting. Trim affected vines as close to the ground as possible, and remove and destroy all fallen vines and leaves.

Clematis vines are among the most popular and attractive flowers in the garden. These plants include woody, deciduous vines as well as herbaceous and evergreen varieties.

They also vary greatly among species, with different flowering forms, colors, and blooming seasons, though most bloom sometime between early spring and fall.

While growing clematis successfully depends on the type chosen, most plants share the same basic requirements. Keep reading to learn more about clematis care.

Quick Facts About Clematis Flowers

• Botanical name - Clematis spp.
• Height - 3-12 ft. (0.9-3.6 m)
• Spread - 3-20 ft. (0.9-6 m)
• Sun exposure - Full Sun
• Soil requirements - Neutral
• Hardiness zones - USDA Zones 4-9
• When to plant - Spring, Fall

How to Grow Clematis

There are approximately 300 species of plant in the Clematis genus. Though only a small number of these clematis vines are used in the home landscape, understanding how to grow these beautiful flowers can be confusing. Fortunately, caring for clematis is relatively simple, once growers have a better understanding of each type of plant within their garden.

You can either start growing from seed or from a small plant which are available to buy from some of your favorite stores including Amazon, Walmart and Home Depot.

Sun

Clematis have long been said to prefer their “heads in the sun” and “feet in the shade.” To grow their best, most vines will need at least six hours of sunlight each day. Though some species may prove to be more adaptable than others, making certain that plants receive the proper amount of sunlight will be essential to the production of flowers.

Despite their tolerance for heat, clematis vines may require afternoon shade when grown in warmer regions. In addition to helping to maintain soil moisture, the application of mulch may be especially useful in keeping the plant’s root system cool throughout the summer.

Another easy way to accomplish this is by planting some type of ground cover or shallow-rooted perennial plants around the base of the plants, shielding the roots from the sun.

Water

At planting, clematis should be watered well. Consistent moisture levels will be essential to the development of a healthy, robust root system. Once established, clematis flowers will require at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water each week.

Keeping a rain gauge in the garden, like this one from Amazon, can help to monitor moisture levels in flower beds. While many growers will receive ample rainfall, supplemental irrigation may be required in especially warm regions, or during extended periods of drought.

Soil

Clematis vines prefer well-drained soil that is kept consistently moist. The ideal soil is ever so slightly acidic, with a pH of 6.5 - 7.0. This soil pH test kit from Amazon will analyze the acidity of the soil for you.

Fertilizer

Clematis will benefit from the application of a well-balanced fertilizer at planting time. In most instances, the vines will not require additional fertilization. Still, many gardeners may choose to feed their plants annually. This is usually done early in the spring, before the formation of flower buds.

Trellising

Since they're vines, clematis plants require some kind of support to guide their growth. The type of support system is usually dependent on the variety grown. For instance, poles are acceptable choices for smaller growing clematis vines, which can range anywhere from 2 to 5 feet (0.6-1.5 m) in height.

Arbors may be more suitable for growing larger types, which can get 8 to 12 feet (2-4 m). Most varieties of clematis, however, do quite well growing along a trellis or fence, like this Wisfor iron garden trellis from Walmart.

Pruning

The clematis pruning process can vary greatly from one type of plant to another. Arranged into groups, each clematis in the garden may require a different approach to pruning. Learning more about each variety will be paramount in making certain that growers are able to provide the appropriate care for their clematis vines.

• Group One - Group one consists of clematis that begin blooming in early spring. These vines will produce flower buds on old growth. Pruning of group one clematis should be done in summer, immediately after the plants have ceased blooming.
• Group Two - Many clematis within group two will flower on both new and old wood. It is generally best to prune these vines in late winter or very early spring. At this time, gardeners should remove any stems which have been damaged or have died back during the colder months.
• Group Three - Group three clematis will bloom on new growth. These vines can be pruned aggressively, and allow for gardeners to trim each stem back within several inches of the ground. Growers should expect these clematis to flower throughout summer, often continuing until the arrival of cooler temperatures.

Problems

Clematis are prone to several types of foliar disease. Among the most troubling of these diseases is clematis wilt. Though observant gardeners may notice subtle changes in the appearance of plants, sudden blackening of foliage and stems, followed by collapse of diseased vines, is not uncommon. The prompt removal of infected plants will be key in the control and prevention of the disease.

Other problematic infections within the garden include various types of rot, leaf spot, and powdery mildew, especially in cases of poor air circulation. Fortunately, most of these issues can be controlled by gardeners and seldom lead to the loss of vines.

Pests like aphids and spider mites can be a problem as well.

Clematis Planting Info

Although many clematis vines are grown in containers, they can also be planted in the garden. They are usually planted in fall or early spring, depending on the region and variety.

Clematis plants need plenty of space for adequate air flow as well as a rich, well-draining planting area. You should dig the hole large enough to accommodate the plant, with most recommendations suggesting at least a 2 foot (61 cm.) depth of soil amended with compost prior to planting. It may also help to cut the plant back some before planting to lessen shock as it adapts to its new environment.

Tips for Clematis Care

Once established, care of clematis vines is minimal with the exception of watering. They should be watered about an inch (2.5 cm) or so weekly, and more deeply during dry spells. Mulch should be replenished each spring.

Popular Clematis Varieties

• "Boulevard" Series Clematis
• "Duchess of Edinburgh" Clematis
• "Kilian Donahue" Clematis
• "Nelly Moser" Clematis

Most of the time when you purchase a clematis, you have purchased an already established plant that has good root and leaf structure. However, you could also try propagating clematis with cuttings. Let's look at how to propagate clematis from cuttings.

How to Propagate Clematis from Cuttings

The best way to grow clematis is from clematis cuttings. Cuttings are the easiest way to perform clematis propagation. Start propagating clematis by taking clematis cuttings for clematis propagation from your healthy clematis in early summer. You will want to take half green wood cuttings; in other words, cuttings that have just started to become hard (brown) wood. Treat them with a special rooting hormone to help them root and place the clematis cuttings in sterile soil. Be aware, when you purchase your roots at the local garden center, you will find that they are usually grafted roots. This makes them stronger and helps them root easier. You can, however, still get good results from your own clematis cuttings. The clematis cuttings may take anywhere from one to two months to take root. While they are rooting, keep the cuttings in high humidity and bright but indirect light.

Care for Clematis Cuttings After Rooting

Once the clematis is rooted, you will want to make sure to maintain soil contact around the roots. First be sure to amend the soil so that it will support the new clematis propagation. Then once fully rooted, cut the stems back to only 12 inches (31 cm.) in height. This will help the plant branch out and climb up a trellis or fence. Put the crown a couple of inches (5 cm.) below the soil surface so that it can be well prepared should it accidentally be cut back or mowed over. Be sure you apply fertilizer annually. Rooted clematis cuttings also love rotted manure. Manure makes them healthy and happy. You can use this as mulch if you want. The vines of your clematis need a lot of sunlight but the roots need to stay in the cool, damp soil. Propagating clematis is done easily enough and before you know it, you could have several different clematis plants growing throughout your property. Clematis propagation is easy enough and you end up with flowers and plenty of new plants each season.