Oh what a beautiful morning! It’s a great feeling and a great song. But the lyrics are sufficient to convince you to leave corn out of your small garden design. Yep, that’s the song that says “The corn is as high as an elephant’s eye, and it looks like it’s climbin’ clear up to the sky.”

Now that’s a lovely image, but it doesn’t work in a small, urban garden. Combine that with the common wisdom that you need multiple rows to get the plants pollinated, and growing corn gets crossed off the list of garden tasks.

But – to stick with the lyrics theme – “the times they are a-changing.” Today there are several dwarf species that might work well in the backyard garden. We’re here to introduce you.

The Problem with Growing Traditional Corn

Fresh corn on the cob is one of the garden crops emblematic of summer! You pick the largest ears in the garden, pluck them, shuck them, then roast them over the fire. A large ear of ripe corn is almost a meal itself.

But typically, gardeners with small backyards don’t plant this crop. The individual plants tend to grow taller than you are, and some species can achieve a height of 14 feet (4.5 meters) tall. That’s just not practical for someone with an urban garden. Even a few plants would shade out lower sun-loving crops like tomatoes and peppers, and you’ll need more than one or two.

Because all types of corn are largely wind-pollinated, with the breeze carrying pollen from the tassels to the silks, the ideal is to plant corn in block formations. This system increases the chances of pollen reaching the silks. Even if you plant corn tight, an 8-by-8 block will take up at least 21 feet (7m) squared.

New Stalks on the Block

Today, corn in the backyard garden is no longer a pipedream. Several types of corn have been developed that are small enough to grow in a regular, behind-the-house garden. Some corn can be grown in a container on a sunny patio! One is a Burpee special called On Deck Hybrid. The other is a dwarf variety known as Blue Jade Dwarf Sweet Corn.

1. On Deck Hybrid Corn

Burpee has done it again. They’ve developed the first-ever sweet corn you can grow in a container. It’s known as On Deck Hybrid, and specimens never grow above 5 feet (1.5m) tall, yet the delicious, bicolor ears grow to 8 inches long.

This tasty breakthrough bicolor variety grows well on containers. You can plant 18 seeds in a single, 24-inch (.6m) container on your patio. The stalks grow fast, with each one producing two or three ears - while also adding that vertical interest your deck needed. And it’s speedy! The time from planting to grilling is only two months. You can find On Deck corn seeds from Burpee.

2. Blue Jade Dwarf Sweet Corn

Neither you and I would select a corn variety because we like the color of the ears, but I've got to say that the deep silver-blue kernels of Blue Jade Dwarf sweet corn is utterly lovely. They start out white but mature to a steely blue. That blue deepens even more once the corn is cooked. And these ears of blue corn taste as good as they look.

Blue Jade Dwarf sweet corn really are dwarf plants, never growing taller than 4 feet (1.3m). Low-growing and reliable - with each stalk producing two ears - Blue Jade take about 80 days after planting to mature. Harvest the ears when they are blue with a little light-yellow in the kernels. Cobs can only be called cuties, each one about half the size of a standard ear of sweet corn. You can find Blue Jade seeds from Hudson Valley Seed Co.

Other Dwarf Corn Options

There are other dwarf corn options out there that you might want to consider, each with its own characteristics. All of these varieties stay under 5 feet (1.6m) tall and mature in 80 days or less.

• Early Sunglow. Did you know that some corn is sugar-enhanced? Early Sunglow is a dwarf variety that contains a sugar enhancer gene that makes the kernels sweeter and more tender. It’s a dwarf yellow corn that grows 5-6 inch ears with sweet, tender kernels. Count on 60-65 days to mature. Find Early Sunglow corn seeds from Ferry-Morse.
• Bodacious. Bodacious is even smaller than Early Sunglow, the stalks topping out at 3-4 feet (1-1.3m) tall. It's a miniature yellow hybrid corn that grows ears between 6 and 8 inches. Seed to harvest is about 10 weeks. You can find Bodacious sweet corn seeds from Park Seed.
• Peaches & Cream. Here’s a pretty dwarf corn plant. Peaches & Cream is really lovely, growing to 4 feet (1.3m) with bicolored kernels - bright yellow and white. The ears are 7 inches long and take 11 weeks to mature. Peaches & Cream sweet corn seeds can be purchased from Ferry-Morse.

If you've eaten Chinese food, you've probably come across baby corn before. You've probably also thought: “is baby corn real corn?” How is baby corn made? Many people take a look at baby corn and assume it comes from a dwarf corn variety, but it's actually exactly what it sounds like: immature corn cobs. So how do you grow baby corn? Keep reading to learn about growing baby corn in your own garden.

What is Baby Corn?

We’ve all wondered about baby corn. If it is that diminutive and yet a perfect copy of a larger ear of corn, it stands to reason it came from a dwarf or miniature variety of corn. Or maybe not.

How is baby corn made? Baby corn, as mentioned above, is simply immature sweet corn. It is generally imported from east Asia and comes processed in jars or cans. In Asia, specific corn varieties are used to make baby corn, but it can be harvested from garden sweet corn as well.

How does Baby Corn Grow?

Baby corn does not need to be sweet corn -- it can be field, regular, or a super sweet variety. This is because the baby corn will be harvested before pollination, which is before any sugar has been stored in the kernels. Instead of sweetness, what counts is ear quality, small kernel size, straight rows, and tapered tips.

There are specific varieties of corn bred for baby corn production, many of which have shorter stalks or multiple stalks and yield as many as 20 ears of corn per plant.

How to Grow Baby Corn

Corn seedlings should be planted in the spring after all danger of frost has passed. Baby corn stalks can be planted much closer together than when growing full sized ears. Seeds should be sown in fertile, well-draining soil about 4 inches (10 cm) apart in rows typically 30 to 36 inches (76-91 cm) apart.

One way to grow and harvest baby corn is to harvest the lower ears for use as baby corn while allowing the upper ears to mature into full sized corn ears.

Unlike full sized corn, baby corn has few issues with pests.

Baby Corn Harvest

To harvest baby corn, you need to be vigilant. Keep an eye on the corn -- it grows rapidly. Harvesting the corn at the right time may take a little practice. Start by harvesting ears that have just had silk appear.

Harvest miniature corn ears when they are 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm) long and the silk is evident. Harvest often, at least every two to three days since once the ears become too large, they become too tough for use as baby corn. The harvest period may last two to four weeks.

What to Do with Baby Corn

Immediately process or refrigerate the baby corn. In commercial production, baby corn is sold in the husk and must be properly cooled immediately after picking. Baby corn may be frozen, blanched, pickled, or canned.

Corn is arguably one of the more popular “vegetables.” It is a fun crop to grow for adult and child alike. Usually corn germination is attained by planting corn seed (dried kernels) but can you grow corn from an ear of corn? Indeed, you can grow corn from a cob. Read on to learn how to propagate corn from a cob.

Propagating Corn on the Cob

Usually corn is propagated from seed, dried kernels, but it can also be grown from a cob of corn. This is a particularly fun project to do with kids that teaches them how their food is grown, plus the results are awe-inspiring, towering stalks.

Propagating corn via corn cobs isn’t particularly difficult. You will want to make sure the cobs you use look healthy with no mold or sign of disease or pests.

Corn is one of the common GMO crops in the United States. If you are concerned about GMOs, selecting and growing your own corn is the way to go. This way you can make sure the corn is not genetically modified.

Another concern is what type of corn you are growing. If this is just a science experiment, you may not care if the corn is field (dent corn) or feed corn, but if you want to grow the corn to fruition, you might select sweet corn for eating or popping corn.

Lastly if you are concerned about chemical controls and growing methods, select organically grown corn cobs for you propagation.

Propagating Corn from a Cob

Once you’ve selected your corn cobs, you can go a couple of different routes. If you want to grow corn to fruition, that is you want to produce corn cobs, it is best to dry the corn kernels completely, otherwise they tend to rot and will not germinate.

If you just want to experiment and show the kids (or yourself) how corn sprouts, you can use a fresh corn cob placed in a dish with an inch (2.5 cm) of water; there’s no need to submerge the cob. Place it in a sunny area and keep an eye on it.

Within a few days the corn kernels will have begun germinating. You will see shoots sprouting up from the kernels and roots growing in the water. Add more water as the corn absorbs it or if the water smells, replenish all the water. Sprouts will take about 2 weeks.

As the kernels germinate, some will become dislodged from the cob. These can be planted. Keep in mind that some will also mold; discard these.

Another method for germinating corn from a cob is by simply putting half the cob in the soil with half sticking out. Keep it moist until the kernels germinate. This is an option if you have fresh corn on the cob that’s starting to go south, but again, it is an experiment and may not yield any viable corn seedlings.

How to Grow Corn from Cob Kernels

To grow corn, you can plant the dislodged sprouted kernels as above. This may be more of an experiment than a promise of a harvest but it’s still fun.

If you really want to grow corn from a cob, you must dry the corn kernels first. Peel back or remove the husk to expose the kernels to dry air. Allow the ears to dry 2-3 months and then remove the kernels from the cob and either plant them or store in a sealed jar. Remove and discard any kernels that are an off color or show signs of mildew.

Products such as blue corn tortillas made with Hopi blue corn are increasingly popular. It’s no wonder their popularity is on the rise; blue corn is touted as one of the “superfoods” due to its abundance of antioxidants. These health benefits can be yours when you try growing your own blue corn. 

How To Grow Blue Corn: Best Varieties For Homegrown Blue Corn Tortillas

Blue corn is an open-pollinated flour corn originally developed by the Hopi people, hence the name. The Hopi were a true agricultural society developing many varieties of corn, some of which exist to this day. 

Interestingly, the color of the corn was associated with direction. For example, yellow related to the north, white to the east, red to the south and blue, west. 

Hopi blue corn remains an essential ingredient in Hopi foods such as piki bread wherein the blue corn is ground into a sweet meal and formed into bread. Today blue corn meal is the primary ingredient in delicious blue corn tortillas. 

Growing Blue Corn

Blue corn (Zea mays) has a lower yield than hybrid dent corn, along with variable plant characteristics such as height, number of ears and lengthy bloom times. They also have a tendency toward toppling over, which is likely why products containing blue corn tend to be more costly. That said, growing blue corn is a bit more of a challenge but well worth the effort. 

Most blue corn is open pollinated. A few hybrids do exist, but they are proprietary and only grown by commercial producers. Hopi blue corn can be grown in USDA zones 8-10.

Plant blue corn in deep, well-drained, sandy loam loaded with organic matter. Plant seeds 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) deep and 8 inches (20 cm.) apart in pre-watered beds. Keep seed bed moist and germination should occur in a week to 10 days. 

When they are about 5 inches (12.7 cm.) tall, thin plants a foot (30.48 cm.) apart. Continue to provide an inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week. As the plants grow, spread a few inches (8 cm.) of organic mulch around them to retard weeds and retain moisture. If the leaves begin to turn yellow, side-dress the plants with a high nitrogen fertilizer. 

When to Harvest Blue Corn

The timing for harvest will depend upon the variety and weather during the growing season but anywhere from 65-120 days is when to harvest blue corn. If your plan is to roast or fry the kernels, be sure to harvest during the milk stage which will result in sweeter products, such as the blue corn tortilla recipe below. A fingernail gently pushed into a kernel should yield milky fluid when ready. 

Blue Corn Tortilla Recipe

Remove the blue corn kernels from the cob and wash well in a colander. Dissolve 1 tsp of limestone powder or “cal” in ½ C (120 ml.) of water. Add the dissolved cal to 32 oz (just under a liter) of water and heat to a low boil on the stove. This addition, an important step that alkalizes the corn making it easier to grind and more digestible, is called nixtamalization. 

Add the corn kernels and simmer over medium heat for 25-40 minutes. The corn should feel velvety when done and should dent with a fingernail. 

Remove the pot of corn from the heat and allow it to sit at room temp for 12 hours. After this time, pour the corn into a colander and rinse lightly with water. 

Grind the wet kernels in a wet mill, food processor or blender; the smoother the dough, the better. Add a bit of water to make a slightly sticky dough, or masa. 

Now you are ready to make blue corn tortillas. Roll the dough into balls about 2 inches (5 cm.) across and flatten in a tortilla press, or by using two flat cutting boards. 

Heat a non-stick pan over high heat and cook the blue corn tortilla for 40 seconds until the edges begin to color and then flip over. Flip a third time to check the color and then remove from the pan. 

Use immediately or seal tightly and refrigerate or freeze. Use or freeze any unused masa within 3 days. 

When I was a kid there weren’t too many foods that were sanctioned by Mom to pick up and eat with your hands. Corn was one hands-on item as messy as it was delicious. Shucking the corn became a special privilege when my grandfather showed us what to do with the corn husks. Now that I’m older, I’m realizing that there are numerous corn husk uses from crafts to recipes and more.

What to Do with Corn Husks

Since you’ve been left hanging, here’s what my grandfather used to make for my sister and me using corn husks – corn husk dolls. In fact, the process is quite simple and only requires corn husks and twine or raffia. Very quickly my sister and I were making our own. If you’re really artistic, corn husks can also be used to make other animals and shapes as well.

While this is a fun project to do with the kids, there are quite a few other corn husk crafts out there. For instance, they can be made into flowers or strung together with the assistance of a wreath form and a glue gun to make a seasonal wreath.

Other corn husk uses involve braiding them. Once the husks have been braided, they can be twisted into coasters or trivets. You can also wrap corn husks around votives to add to the Thanksgiving table. Once you get started on corn husk crafts, you will undoubtedly come up with some uses of your own.

Corn Husk Recipes

Corn husks feature prominently in the cuisine of Mexico in the form of tamales. For those of you who haven’t tried a tamale, do it! If you are new to the tamale scene though, you might wonder “are corn husks edible?”

Nope, corn husks can’t be eaten but they make a terrific wrapper for cooking other foods in. In the case of tamales, the masa and meat are steamed within the wrapper, which not only keeps the food moist, but imparts a unique flavor as well.

So, just what else can be wrapped in a corn husk and cooked? You can substitute Ti or banana leaves for corn husks in recipes for chicken Laulau or other Pacific Island dishes. These tropical leaves aren’t always easy to find, but corn husks generally are.

Fish can be grilled en papillote (cooked and served in a wrapper). Just wrap the fish in corn husks that have been soaked in water and place on the grill. The corn husks will keep the fish moist and impart a distinct smoky flavor.

Of course, you can also try making your own tamales, which takes a little practice, but once you’ve made a couple, you’ll be a pro in no time.

Additional Corn Husk Uses

As you can see, there isn’t any reason to throw away corn husks, although you can compost them.

You can also add corn husks to stock, soup, and chowder. Just add washed, fresh husks to the stock pot. A particularly nice touch in Mexican tortilla soup or corn chowder, just remember to remove the husks prior to serving.

Corn husks also burn easily. Next time you’re on a camping trip that includes a BBQ with corn as the star, use the husks to start the campfire. If you aren’t planning on bringing corn to the campout, dry them ahead of time and store in a plastic bag for the next camping trip.

Many of us fondly remember getting lost in a corn maze when we were kids. Little did we know how much effort went into making an afternoon of fun! Growing a corn maze isn’t just about growing corn. It takes a lot more than growing the crop to build a successful corn maze business. For one thing, a DIY corn maze grower needs ideas, and good ones at that, to attract customers. Read on to learn the ins and outs of how to grow a corn maze.

Corn Maze Ideas

You need to have a great idea for a design when it comes to creating your own corn maze. A corn maze is often comprised of two components: a picture in the design of the maze and a challenge. The difficulty of the challenge depends upon the clientele you want to attract, while the design will depend on field size and cutting method. 

If you are artistic and engineer minded, you can design a DIY corn maze yourself. For the rest of us, there are companies that actually specialize in designing corn mazes. The professional corn maze designer will assist you with how to fit a particular design into your acreage, provide the right challenge for your clients, and assist with all the particulars of running a corn maze from parking and signage to ticket sales and maintenance.

How to Grow a Corn Maze

If you have garden space of note or some acreage, a DIY corn maze may be in your future and you’re not alone; agritourism is a booming business for many farmers.

Once you have a design and a business plan for how to run a corn maze, it’s time to plant the corn. Interestingly, while corn is normally planted in the spring, corn for a corn maze is planted for growing late in the season. Late season silage is the best type of corn to plant for a maze because you want it to stay green while the kiddos are running amok. Sweet corn is usually sown in the spring, harvested, and sold. Then in early July the field is re-tilled and re-planted with the silage.

Corn seed for a maze is cross planted – north and south and then east and west. This will result in a thick, lush planting that intersects at right angles. Seed should be sown ¼ to 1 inch deep (6 mm. to 2.5 cm.) in rows spaced 36 inches (91 cm.) apart. Once the seed is sown, overhead irrigation to provide an inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week should be implemented. When the corn is 3 to 6 inches (8-15 cm.) tall, it’s time to cut the design.

Additional Considerations When Growing a Corn Maze

If a professional company has been hired to complete the corn maze, they will use a modern GPS system that geo-references the field and then sends an image that looks like a road map to the tiller driver. If this is truly a DIY maze, the grower and a few friends might use weed whackers to cut paths into the corn field. In either case, the paths are cut while the corn is still short, and it takes another couple of months for the stalks to grow head tall or taller.

Paths need to be kept mulched or straw covered to make walking easier as well. When the design has been cut, it’s a good time to get out the word about the upcoming venture. Marketing a corn maze will make the difference between just putting in a lot of hard work and profiting from that work.

Lastly, creating a corn maze can be a lot of fun, but before you even begin, have a budget laid out that includes not only the cost of the seed and maintenance for growing the field but also path maintenance, parking improvement, signage, promotion, advertising costs, labor, tickets or wristbands, employee uniforms, public restrooms, and liability insurance.

Corn on the cob is a popular choice for cookouts, and who goes to the movies without buying popcorn? That’s not all corn can be used for though. There are lots of alternative uses of corn.

What can you make with corn? The list is pretty long actually. Read on for information on unusual corn uses and tips on how to use corn in new ways in the kitchen.

What is Corn Used For?

Corn (also called maize) is one of the basic foods for much of the world. Combined with rice, it creates a complete protein relied on for sustenance in much of Africa and South America. In the United States, corn is considered more of a side vegetable dish, often eaten on the cob or else in kernels from a can. You don’t have to look very far though to find more alternative uses of corn.

How to Use Corn in Cooking

If you are wondering about alternative uses of corn, first consider different types of corn-based recipes. Corn tortillas and corn chips are familiar foods made from corn that you can prepare yourself at home. Other delicious recipes to try include corn bread, corn cob jelly, corn fritters, corn casserole, and corn salsa.

For more unusual corn uses in the kitchen, think about desserts. They don’t call it “sweet corn” for nothing! Corn works very well to add starch and creamy textures to desserts. You can make sweet corn ice cream, sweet corn crème brulee, or even chocolate hazelnut sweet corn cake.

What Can You Make with Corn?

It may surprise you that the majority of corn grown these days does not go to food production. It is used to make ethanol gas, batteries, plastics, crayons, whiskey, glue, and cough drops.

Cornstarch (a corn derivative) is a common ingredient in hygiene products, matchsticks, and many medications and vitamins. It is used as a thickening agent in liquids and substituted for talc in powders.

What is corn used for in medications? Often, the vegetable is used in the form of cornstarch to bind medication and helps pills hold their form. It also helps tablets disintegrate after they are ingested. Finally, corn is rich in vitamin C. Many vitamin C supplements are made from corn.

Fresh, sweet summer corn is a treat to look forward to when planning your garden. There are many corn varieties, from hybrids to heirlooms. Depending upon your zone, there are varieties of corn that ripen at different times of the season, various colors, and even sugar-enhanced types. We'll go over some of the best kinds of corn so you can get cracking on your summer garden planning.

Popular Corn Plants You Can Grow

As you start your list of seeds to purchase, deciding which corn plants to grow can ensure a big crop of this sweet veggie. However, deciphering those seed catalogs can be challenging. Among all the types of corn, you will also have to decide if you want normal sweet corn, sugar enhanced, or super sweet corn. The choices can make a gardener dizzy. A primer on the three main categories of corn can help narrow down the selection.

Standard Sweet Corn

This classic group is one of the most popular selections of corn varieties. The traditional flavor and texture simply sing “summer,” but the drawback is that they don't store for long. More than a couple of days in the crisper and the sugars turn into starch. There are early and late maturing hybrids, making them a good selection for almost any zone.

These types of corn also come in white or yellow. Some of the standard varieties are:

• Silver Queen - mid to late white
• Seneca Chief - midseason, golden kernels
• Utopia - bicolor with fairly early harvest
• Sugar Dots - midseason bicolor
• Earlivee - early season yellow
• Golden Bantam - heirloom, yellow, midseason
• True Platinum - purple plants with white kernels, midseason
• Seneca Horizon - early maturing yellow
• Stowell’s - late season, heirloom, yellow

Many of these are disease and blight-resistant with creamy flesh and standard sweet flavor and the young plants are vigorous.

Sugar Enhanced Kinds of Corn

These varieties may have up to 18 percent more sugar content than the standard sugar types. They hold better than sugar varieties but the skin around the kernels is more tender and sensitive to damage. However, this characteristic also makes them easier to chew. These are generally planted one week later than standard varieties.

Some of the better sugar-enhanced varieties are:

• Sweet Riser - golden corn with early maturity
• Legend - another early yellow
• Sweet Ice - white corn maturing early
• Double Choice - mid season bicolor
• Temptation - early bicolor
• Whiteout - midseason white
• Quickie - early bicolor
• Silver Knight - early white
• Iochief - late season yellow

The ears of sugar-enhanced corn store longer than regular sugar corn.

Supersweet Varieties of Corn

Supersweet may also be called shrunken corn due to the appearance of the dried kernels. There is twice the amount of sugar as traditional sweet corn varieties. Because they convert sugar to starch much slower, they can be stored much longer. The seeds of these types do not germinate well in cooler soils, and yields from plants are significantly less than sugar types.

They are also planted later in the season. The kernel has a much thicker exterior, which makes it great for storing and shipping but can be tough to eat. Common supersweet corn includes:

• Mirai - Asian variety, midseason yellow
• Sweetie - midseason yellow
• Vision - midseason yellow but germinates better in cool soil
• Indian Summer - midseason yellow but kernels turn red, white, or purple prior to ripening
• Candy Corner - early season bicolor
• Krispy King - midseason yellow
• Early Extra Sweet - early golden kernels
• How Sweet It Is - late season white
• Gotta Have It - midseason bicolor

There are many more varieties in each category, but these illustrate some of the best types in each group. There is something for everyone. Satisfy a sweet tooth, harvest early, or store for longer. Surely one of these will be the right fit for your garden.

Physoderma brown spot of corn is a fungal disease that may cause your plant’s leaves to develop yellow to brown lesions. It is favored by warm, wet conditions and, in the Midwest where most corn is grown, it is only a minor issue. Be aware of this disease, especially if you live somewhere warmer and with more humidity, like the southeast states of the U.S.

What is Corn Brown Spot?

This is a fungal infection caused by Physoderma maydis. It is an interesting disease, although it can be destructive, because it is one of few that produce zoospores. These are fungal spores that have flagella, or tails, and can swim around in the water that pools in corn whorls.

The conditions that favor the infection are warm and wet, especially when water collects in whorls. This is what allows the zoospores to spread to healthy tissue and cause infection and lesions.

Signs of Corn with Brown Spot

The characteristic symptoms of corn brown spot infection are the formation of small, round or oval lesions that may be yellow, brown, or even a brownish purple in color. They multiply quickly and form bands across leaves. You may also see the lesions on the stalks, husks, and sheaths of your corn plants.

These signs can be somewhat similar to rust diseases, so also look for a midrib lesion that is dark brown to black in color to identify brown spot. The symptoms will most likely develop before your corn has gotten to the tassel stage.

Physoderma Brown Spot Control

There are some fungicides that are labeled for physoderma brown spot, but effectiveness may not be great. It is better to manage this disease with cultural and preventative practices. If the disease has been an issue in your area or region, try starting with resistant varieties of corn.

Infected residue of corn in the soil and promote re-infection, so clean up debris at the end of each growing season or practice good tillage. Rotate corn to different areas to avoid a buildup of the fungus in one spot. If you can, avoid planting corn in areas that have high humidity or are prone to standing water.

Corn with ear rot is not often evident until harvest. It is caused by fungi that can produce toxins, rendering the corn crop inedible to both humans and animals. Since there are multiple fungi that cause ear rot in corn, it is important to learn how each type differs, the toxins they produce, and under what conditions they develop-- as well as corn ear rot treatment specific to each. The following corn ear rot info delves into these concerns.

Corn Ear Rot Diseases

Usually, corn ear rot diseases are fostered by cool, wet conditions during silking and early development when the ears are susceptible to infection. Damage caused by weather conditions, such as hail, and insect feeding also opens the corn up to fungal infections.

There are three main types of ear rot in corn: Diplodia, Gibberella, and Fusarium. Each differs in the type of damage they afflict, the toxins they produce, and the conditions that cultivate the disease. Aspergillus and Penicillium have also been identified as ear rot in corn in some states.

General Corn Ear Rot Info

The husks of infected ears of corn are often discolored and turn down earlier than uninfected corn. Usually, fungal growth is seen on the husks once they have been opened. This growth varies in color depending upon the pathogen.

Ear rot diseases can cause significant losses. Some fungi continue to grow in stored grain which can render it unusable. Also, as mentioned, some fungi contain mycotoxins, although the presence of ear rot does not necessarily mean that mycotoxins are present. Testing by a certified lab must be done to determine if the infected ears contain toxins.

Symptoms of Ear Rot Diseases in Corn

Diplodia

Diplodia ear rot is a common disease found throughout the Corn Belt. It occurs when conditions are wet from mid-June through mid-July. The combination of developing spores and heavy rains before tasseling easily disperses the spores.

Symptoms include a thick white mold growth on the ear from the base to the tip. As the disease progresses, small raised black fungal reproductive structures appear on infected kernels. These structures are rough and feel akin to sandpaper. Ears that are infected with Diplodia are suspiciously lightweight. Depending when the corn was infected, the entire ear may be affected or just some kernels.

Gibberella

Gibberella (or Stenocarpella) ear rot is also more likely when conditions are wet a week or so after silking. This fungus enters through the silk channel. Warm, mild temperatures foster this disease.

Telltale signs of Gibberella ear rot is a white to pink mold covering the ear tip. It can produce mycotoxins.

Fusarium

Fusarium ear rot is most common in fields that have been affected by bird or insect damage.

In this case, ears of corn have infected kernels scattered amongst healthy looking kernels. White mold is present and, on occasion, the infected kernels will become brownish with light streaking. Fusarium can produce the mycotoxins fumonisin or vomitoxin.

Aspergillus

Aspergillus ear rot, unlike the previous three fungal diseases, occurs after hot, dry weather during the last half of the growing season. Corn that is drought stressed is most susceptible to Aspergillus.

Again, wounded corn is most often affected and the resulting mold can be seen as greenish yellow spores. Aspergillus may produce the mycotoxin aflatoxin.

Penicillium

Penicillium ear rot is found during storage of the grain and is fostered by high levels of moisture. Wounded kernels are more likely to become infected.

Damage is seen as a blue-green fungus, generally on the tips of the ears. Penicillium is sometimes mistaken as Aspergillus ear rot.

Corn Ear Rot Treatment

Many fungi overwinter on crop debris. To combat ear rot diseases, be sure to clean up or dig in any crop residue. Also, rotate the crop, which will allow the corn detritus to break down and reduces the presence of the pathogen. In areas where the disease is endemic, plant resistant varieties of corn.

Corn in the home garden is a fun addition, not just for the harvest but also for the tall screen you can get with this cereal plant. Unfortunately, there are a number of diseases that may thwart your efforts, including corn seedling blight.

What is Seedling Blight in Corn?

Seedling blight is a disease that affects seeds and seedlings of corn. The blight may occur in the seeds before or after they germinate, and if they sprout, they will show signs of the disease. Causes of seedling blight in corn are soil-borne fungi, including Pythium, Fusarium, Diplodia, Penicillium, and Rhizoctonia.

Symptoms of Corn Seedling Blight

If the disease sets in early, you will see signs of blight in the seeds, which will appear rotten. New stem tissue on seedlings may appear white, gray, or pink, or even dark brown to black. As seedlings grow, the leaves will wilt, yellow, and die.

On the roots, look for signs of rotting, which will appear as brown coloring, a water-soaked appearance, and possibly a pink to green or blue coloring. The above ground symptoms of blight may be similar to those caused by root damage and infection by cutworms or rootworms. It is important to look carefully at the seedling roots to determine if the cause is fungal infection or worms.

The conditions that favor infection fungi that cause corn seedling blight include soils that are wet and cool. Corn planted early or planted in areas that don’t drain well and get standing water are more likely to be affected.

Corn Seedling Blight Treatment and Management

Prevention of growing corn seedlings with blight is the best first strategy in the management of this disease. Make sure you grow corn where the soil will drain well and avoid planting your corn too early in the spring. You may also be able to find resistant varieties of corn to plant, although these generally resist one or two pathogens, but not all.

You can also treat seeds with a fungicide before planting. Apron, or mefenoxam, is most commonly used to prevent an infection of seedling blight. It is only effective against Pythium infections though. Crop rotation can help manage this disease as well, as the fungi tend to persist in the soil.

With all of these good practices, you can minimize, if not completely avoid, infection and damage caused by corn seedling blight.

Each year commercial farmers spend a small fortune battling serious crop diseases that can potentially cause massive yield loss. These same diseases can also wreak havoc on the small crop yields of home gardens. One such disease that affects both small and large crops is corn head smut, a serious fungal disease of corn. Continue reading for more information about corn head smut, as well as options for treating corn head smut in the garden.

About Head Smut on Corn

Corn head smut is a fungal disease of corn plants that is caused by the pathogen Sphacelotheca reiliana. It is a systemic disease that can infect a plant as a seed but the symptoms do not appear until the plant is in its flowering and fruiting stages.

Head smut can be easily mistaken for another fungal disease of corn, common smut. However, corn head smut only displays its very specific symptoms on the tassels and heads of corn whereas common smut’s symptoms may appear on any part of an infected corn plant.

Corn with head smut may appear perfectly normal and healthy until the infected plant produces flowers or fruits. Symptoms appear as irregular, black, wiry growth on the corn tassels. Infected corn will be stunted and grow in a teardrop shape – they may also have odd, finger-like extensions growing from the infected cobs.

As stated above, this is a systemic disease. The infection may only show on the cobs and tassels, but the disease is present throughout the plant.

How to Stop Corn Head Smut

Sphacelotheca head smut on corn has led to significant yield loss in commercial corn crops in Nebraska. While there are no effective control methods available for treating corn head smut once symptoms of the disease are present, using fungicide on seeds just before planting has helped control disease outbreaks, especially in smaller home gardens.

Because corn head smut grows and spreads most actively in hot, humid periods, planting corn earlier in the season can help control this disease. Of course, using corn plant hybrids that show resistance to the disease can also be an effective means in how to stop corn head smut.

Planting various types of corn has long been a summer garden tradition. Whether grown out of necessity or for enjoyment, generations of gardeners have tested their growing prowess to produce nutritious harvests. Specifically, home growers of sweet corn cherish the succulent and sugary kernels of freshly shucked corn. However, the process of growing healthy crops of corn is not without frustration. For many growers, issues with pollination and disease can be a cause for concern throughout the growing season. Luckily, many common corn problems can be prevented with some forethought. One such disease, called Stewart’s wilt, can be greatly diminished with a few simple techniques.

Managing Corn with Stewart’s Wilt

Manifesting in the form of linear stripes on corn leaves, Stewart’s wilt of corn (corn bacterial leaf spot) is caused by a bacterium called Erwinia stewartii. Infections are generally classified into two types based on when each occur: seedling stage and the leaf blight stage, which impacts older and more mature plants. When infected with Stewart’s wilt, sweet corn may prematurely die back regardless of the age of the plant, if the infection is severe. The good news is that the probability of high incidence of Stewart’s wilt of corn can be predicted. Those who keep careful records can determine the threat of infection based on weather patterns throughout the previous winter. This is directly related to the fact that the bacteria is spread by and overwinters within the corn flea beetle. While it is possible to control flea beetles through the use of insecticides approved for use in the vegetable garden, the frequency at which the product must be used is generally not cost effective. The most effective means by which to control corn bacterial leaf blight is through prevention. Make certain only to purchase seed from a reputable source in which the seed has been guaranteed to be disease free. Additionally, many corn hybrids have proven to show great resistance to Stewart’s wilt of corn. By choosing more highly resistant varieties, growers can hope for healthier harvests of delicious sweet corn from the home garden.

Varieties Resistant to Stewart’s Wilt of Corn

• ‘Apollo’
• ‘Flagship’
• ‘Sweet Season’
• ‘Sweet Success’
• ‘Miracle’
• ‘Tuxedo’
• ‘Silverado’
• ‘Buttersweet’
• ‘Sweet Tennessee’
• ‘Honey n’ Frost’

There’s nothing quite like a side dish of corn or an ear of freshly boiled corn on the cob. We appreciate the unique taste of this sugary vegetable. Corn is considered a vegetable when harvested for eating, but it may also be considered a grain or even a fruit. There are different sweet corn varieties placed into three categories, due to sugar content. Let’s take a look at those types of sweet corn and some sweet corn cultivars.

About Sweet Corn Plants

Corn is categorized by its sugar into “standard or normal sugary (SU), sugar enhanced (SE), and supersweet (Sh2),” according to sweet corn info. These types also vary by how quickly they should be consumed or put up and the vigor of the seed. Some sources say there are five categories of corn, others say six, but these include different varieties, like popcorn. Not all corn will pop, so you must have a special kind that turns itself inside out when high heat is applied. Blue corn is similar to sweet yellow corn but filled with the same healthy antioxidant that gives blueberries their coloring. These are called anthocyanins. Blue corn is one of the oldest varieties known.

Growing Sweet Corn Cultivars

If you’re considering planting sweet corn in your field or garden, take these factors into consideration before choosing the variety you will grow. Pick a type of corn that is a favorite of your family. Find a type that grows from an open-pollinated, heirloom seed as opposed to a genetically modified organism (GMO). Corn seed, unfortunately, was among the first edibles to be affected by GMO, and that has not changed. Hybrid types, a cross between two varieties, are usually designed for a bigger ear, faster growth, and more attractive and healthy sweet corn plants. We’re not always informed of other changes made to hybrid seeds. Hybrid seeds do not reproduce the same as the plant from which they came. These seeds should not be replanted. Open-pollinated corn seeds are sometimes difficult to find. It is easier to find non-GMO blue corn seeds than bicolor, yellow, or white. Blue corn may be a healthy alternative. It grows from open-pollinated seed. Blue corn still grows in many fields in Mexico and the southwest U.S. It has 30 percent more protein than most other types. However, if you want to grow a more traditional corn crop, look for seeds of:

• Sugar Buns: Yellow, early, SE
• Temptress: Bicolor, second-early season grower
• Enchanted: Organic, bicolor, late-season grower, SH2
• Natural Sweet: Organic, bicolor, midseason grower, SH2
• Double Standard: The first open-pollinated bicolor sweet corn, SU
• American Dream: Bicolor, grows in all warm seasons, premium taste, SH2
• Sugar Pearl: Sparkling white, early season grower, SE
• Silver Queen: White, late season, SU

Although researchers believe sweet corn high plains disease has been around for a long time, it was initially identified as a unique disease in Idaho in 1993, followed shortly thereafter by outbreaks in Utah and Washington. The virus affects not only corn, but wheat and certain types of grasses. Unfortunately, control of sweet corn high plains disease is extremely difficult. Read on for helpful information about this destructive virus.

Symptoms of Corn with High Plains Virus

Symptoms of high plains virus of sweet corn vary widely, but may include weakened root systems, stunted growth and yellowing of the leaves, sometimes with yellow streaks and flecks. Reddish purple discolorations or wide yellow bands are often seen on mature leaves. The bands turn tan or pale brown as the tissue dies. Sweet corn high plains disease is transmitted by the wheat curl mite – tiny wingless mites that are carried from field to field on air currents. The mites reproduce rapidly in warm weather, and can complete an entire generation in a week to ten days.

How to Control High Plains Virus in Sweet Corn

If your corn is infected with sweet corn high plains disease, there isn’t much you can do. Here are a few tips for controlling high plains disease in sweet corn: Control grassy weeds and volunteer wheat in the area around the planting site, as the grass harbors both disease pathogens and wheat curl mites. Control should occur at least two weeks before corn is planted. Plant seeds as early in the season as possible. One chemical, known as Furadan 4F, has been approved for control of wheat curl mites in high risk areas. Your local cooperative extension office can provide more information about this product and if it is appropriate for your garden.

Sweet corn is just a-maize-ing. There’s nothing like chomping into the juicy kernels of buttered corn on the cob on a hot summer’s day. Planting and growing sweet corn are relatively easy, but there are things you might observe during the growing season, such as brown leaf spot on corn, that might leave you corn-fused. If you’re all ears to learn more about sweet corn with leaf spots, keep reading - I promise to stop being so corn-y.

What is Sweet Corn Brown Spot?

It is very easy to detect brown leaf spot in sweet corn, which is caused by the pathogen Physoderma maydis. Bands of very small round or oblong yellow or brown spots will be seen across the leaves, while the midrib of the leaves will display clusters of dark purplish to black oval spots. Upon further inspection, you may also observe the darker colored spots clustered on the stalk, leaf sheath, and husks. Some of the leaf spots may form blister-like pustules full of powdery sporangia, which overwinter in the infected corn tissue. It is said that they can survive in soil and crop debris for 2-7 years. The sporangia have the potential to release multiple zoospores with tails. These zoospores then swim to infiltrate and infect the next unsuspecting corn plant when the conditions are right. What are the right conditions, you ask? Like most fungal infections, moisture and high temperatures are the catalysts. This is often the case during rainstorms, when spores are splashed into areas of the plant where moisture tends to pool, such as at the base of the leaf blades or whorls. It is at these locations where symptoms of brown leaf spot in sweet corn will be the most prevalent.

Treating Sweet Corn with Leaf Spots

Sweet corn brown spot is not really a threat, which means that the enjoyment of your summer corn on the cob is not really in jeopardy. Infection of corn crops is typically sporadic with negligible effect on yield. Given that sweet corn brown spot is fungal in nature, you may think that an application of fungicides is the answer. In this case, not necessarily so. There is, as of this writing, no definitive research on the efficacy of fungicide treatments for sweet corn brown spot or guidelines on the frequency or rate of application. The best way to manage brown leaf spot on corn is via tillage (to bury the disease inoculum) and crop rotation.

Maize dwarf mosaic virus (MDMV) has been reported in most regions of the United States and in countries around the world. The disease is caused by one of two major viruses: sugarcane mosaic virus and maize dwarf mosaic virus.

About Dwarf Mosaic Virus in Corn

Mosaic virus of maize plants is transmitted rapidly by several species of aphids. It is harbored by Johnson grass, a troublesome perennial grass that plagues farmers and gardeners across the country. The disease may also affect a number of other plants, including oats, millet, sugarcane, and sorghum, all of which can also serve as host plants for the virus. However, Johnson grass is the primary culprit. Maize dwarf mosaic virus is known by various names including European maize mosaic virus, Indian maize mosaic virus, and sorghum red stripe virus.

Symptoms of Dwarf Mosaic Virus in Corn

Plants with maize dwarf mosaic virus typically display small, discolored specks followed by yellow or pale green stripes or streaks running along the veins of young leaves. As temperatures rise, entire leaves may turn yellow. However, when nights are cool, affected plants display reddish blotches or streaks. The corn plant may take on a bunchy, stunted appearance and usually won’t exceed a height of 3 feet (1 m.). Dwarf mosaic virus in corn may also result in root rot. Plants may be barren. If ears develop, they may be unusually small or may lack kernels. Symptoms of infected Johnson grass are similar, with greenish-yellow or reddish-purple streaks running along the veins. Symptoms are most apparent on the top two or three leaves.

Treating Plants with Dwarf Mosaic Virus

Preventing maize dwarf mosaic virus is your best line of defense. Plant resistant hybrid varieties. Control Johnson grass as soon as it emerges. Encourage your neighbors to control the weed too; Johnson grass in the surrounding environment increases the risk of disease in your garden. Check plants carefully after an aphid infestation. Spray aphids with insecticidal soap spray as soon as they appear and repeat as needed. Large crops or severe infestations may require use of a systemic insecticide.

Northern leaf blight in corn is a bigger problem for large farms than for home gardeners, but if you grow corn in your Midwestern garden, you may see this fungal infection. The fungus that causes the disease overwinters in debris and proliferates during moderate temperatures and wet conditions. You can manage and prevent the fungal infection or use a fungicide.

Signs of Northern Corn Leaf Blight

Northern corn leaf blight is an infection caused by a fungus that is fairly common in the Midwest, wherever corn is grown. The disease generally only causes limited damage, but it may lead to crop loss under certain conditions. Some varieties of corn are more susceptible, and when the infection sets in early, losses are often greater. The characteristic sign of corn with northern leaf blight is the formation of lesions on the leaves. They are long, narrow lesions that eventually turn brown. The lesions may also form greyish colored borders around their edges. The lesions begin to form on lower leaves and spread to higher leaves as the disease progresses. During humid weather, the lesions may develop spores that make them look dirty or dusty.

Control of Northern Corn Leaf Blight

Control of this disease is often focused on management and prevention. First, choose corn varieties or hybrids that are resistant or at least have moderate resistance to northern corn leaf blight. When you grow corn, make sure it does not stay wet for long periods of time. The fungus that causes this infection needs between six and 18 hours of leaf wetness to develop. Plant corn with enough space for airflow and water in the morning so leaves can dry throughout the day. The fungus overwinters in plant material, so it is also important to manage infected plants. Tilling the corn into the soil is one strategy, but with a small garden it may make more sense to just remove and destroy the affected plants. Treating northern corn leaf blight involves using fungicides. For most home gardeners this step isn’t needed, but if you have a bad infection, you may want to try this chemical treatment. The infection usually begins around the time of silking, and this is when the fungicide should be applied.

The life cycles of many fungal diseases can seem more like a vicious cycle of death and decay. Fungal diseases, such as charcoal rot of sweet corn infect plant tissues, wreaking havoc on infected plants, oftentimes killing the plants. As infected plants fall and die, fungal pathogens remain on their tissues, infecting the soil below. Then the fungus lies dormant in the soil until a new host is planted, and the infectious cycle continues. For more information about sweet corn charcoal rot control, continue reading.

About Corn with Charcoal Rot

Charcoal rot of sweet corn is caused by the fungus Macrophomina phaseolina. While it is a common disease of sweet corn, it also infected many other host plants including alfalfa, sorghum, sunflower, and soybean crops. Charcoal rot of sweet corn is found worldwide but is especially prevalent in the hot, dry conditions of the southern United States and Mexico. It is estimated that sweet corn charcoal rot causes about 5% of crop loss annually in the U.S. In isolated locations, crop losses of 100% have been reported from charcoal rot infections. Charcoal rot of sweet corn is a soil borne fungal disease. It infects corn plants through their roots growing in infected soils. Soils can be infected from residual pathogens from previously infected crops or from tillage of infected soils. These pathogens can remain in the soil for up to three years. When weather conditions are hot, 80-90 F. (26-32 C.), and dry or drought-like, stressed plants become especially susceptible to charcoal rot. Once this disease has entered stressed plants roots, the disease works its way up through the xylem, infecting other plant tissues.

Sweet Corn Charcoal Rot Control

Corn with charcoal rot will have the following symptoms:

• shredded appearance of stems and stalks
• black spots on stems and stalks, which give the plant an ashy or charred appearance
• dried out or wilting foliage
• rotted away pith beneath shredded stalk tissue
• vertical splitting of stalk
• premature ripening of fruit

These symptoms will usually appear in times of drought, especially when these dry conditions occur during the plant’s flowering or tasseling stage. There are no fungicides that are effective at treating sweet corn charcoal rot. Because this disease is linked to heat and drought, one of the best control methods is proper irrigation practices. Regular watering throughout the growing season can prevent this disease. In cooler locations of the U.S. that receive adequate rainfall, the disease is rarely a problem. In hot, dry southern locations, sweet corn crops can be planted earlier to ensure that they are not flowering during normal periods of heat and drought. Crop rotation with plants that are not susceptible to charcoal rot may also help control the disease. Cereal grains, such as barley, rice, rye, wheat, and oats, are not host plants for charcoal rot.

All gardeners will inevitably have to deal with fungal diseases at one point or another. Fungal diseases such as powdery mildew or downy mildew can infect a wide variety of host plants. However, how downy mildew presents itself can depend on the specific host plant. Downy mildew of sweet corn, for example, is also known as crazy top because of its unique symptoms on sweet corn plants. Read on for more information about sweet corn crazy top downy mildew.

Sweet Corn Crazy Top Info

Downy mildew of sweet corn is a fungal disease caused by the pathogen Sclerophthora macrospora. It is a soil borne fungal disease that can remain dormant in the soil for up to ten years, until perfect weather conditions activate its growth and spread. These perfect conditions are generally caused by flooding or waterlogged soils that last for at least 24-48 hours. Crazy top downy mildew can also infect other plants such as oats, wheat, foxtail, sorghum, millet, rice and a variety of grasses. The disease can be spread from these infected plants to sweet corn. In sweet corn, crazy top downy mildew earns its common name from the unusal growth it causes at the tips of the plant. Rather than producing pollen-filled flowers or tassels, infected sweet corn plants will develop excessively bushy, grass, or blade-like growth at their tips. Other symptoms of sweet corn with downy mildew include stunted or distorted growth of young sweet corn plants, yellowing or yellow streaking of foliage, and ‘downy’ or fuzzy spore growth on the undersides of leaves. However, crazy top downy mildew rarely causes significant crop loss. It is usually only found in small portions of cornfields where flooding frequently occurs due to poor drainage or low areas.

Treating Downy Mildew of Sweet Corn Crops

Most infections of sweet corn with downy mildew occur in spring or early summer when rain is frequent. The plants affected are oftentimes young plants, only 6-10 inches (15-25.5 cm.) high that have been exposed to standing water or over watering. While treating sweet corn crazy top with fungicides once the disease is present is usually not effective, there are preventative measures you can take to keep your sweet corn plants free of this disease. Avoid planting sweet corn in low lying areas or areas prone to flooding. Cleaning up plant debris and controlling grassy weeds around corn crops will also help, as will crop rotation. You can also purchase and plant disease resistant varieties of sweet corn.

Growing your own sweet corn is a real treat in the summer. However, if you can’t get your plants past the seedling stage, you’ll get no harvest. Diseases are not common in sweet corn grown in the garden, but there are some problems that can cause sickly sweet corn seedlings.

Problems with Sweet Corn Seedlings

If your corn seedlings are dying, they are probably suffering from a type of disease that particularly affects the seeds of the sweet corn plant. These diseases can kill the seedlings or affect them enough that the stands don’t grow well. They are caused by a few different types of fungus and sometimes by bacteria and may or may not cause rot. Diseased or rotting corn seedlings are more likely to simply die if they are planted in cold soil, but if planted in warmer soil, they may still sprout and grow. In this case, they will develop rot in the roots and at the stem near the soil line.

Preventing Sweet Corn Seedling Diseases

Prevention is always best, of course, and with corn seedlings, two main factors that promote disease are the quality of the seeds and the soil temperature and moisture level. Low quality seeds, or seeds that are cracked or carrying a pathogen, are more likely to develop rot and disease. Cold soil temperatures, less than 55 degrees F. (13 C.), and wet soil also promote disease and make seeds and seedlings more vulnerable. Caring for seedlings of corn the right way will help prevent any rot or disease. Start by choosing high-quality seeds, even if you have to pay a little more. Seeds that have already been treated with fungicide will guarantee they are not carrying pathogens into your garden. Don’t plant your seeds until the soil temperature is above 55 degrees F. (13 C.). Using a raised bed can help raise the temperature. You may also consider starting your seeds indoors and transplanting them outdoors when the weather cooperates, but transplanting corn is not easy. The plants don’t always respond well to being moved. If you try this, be sure to be gentle with it. Any damage to it can harm the plant. Sweet corn seedling diseases are not common issues in the home garden, but it pays to take precautionary measures anyway and to give your seedlings the best chance of growing into big, healthy corn plants.

Common rust of sweet corn is caused by the fungus Puccinia sorghi and can result in serious losses in yield or quality of sweet corn. Sweet corn rust occurs in temperate to sub-tropical regions and overwinters in the southern Unites States and Mexico. Summer storms and winds blow the spores of corn rust fungus into the Corn Belt.

Symptoms of Rust on Sweet Corn

At first, symptoms of corn rust fungus show as tiny, yellow, pin prick spots on leaves. Seven days after these symptoms appear, they develop into reddish brown pustules that are formed on the upper and lower surface of the leaf. The pustules then rupture, and the small, cinnamon-colored spores are revealed. The pustules may be circular or elongated and can be found in bands or patches. Young leaves are more susceptible than mature leaves to common rust on sweet corn.

Favorable Conditions for Sweet Corn Rust

Common rust of sweet corn is more commonly spread when conditions are moist with a high relative humidity of 95% or higher and mild temperatures of between 60 and 77 degrees F. (16-25 C.). Spores land on foliage and within three to six hours of optimal conditions, germinate and infect the plant. Even light dew will allow the spores to germinate.

Commercially grown dent corn is rarely afflicted with the disease; rust on sweet corn is much more common. This is due to the fact that many popular sweet corn hybrids lack resistance and also has to do with when the corn is planted.

Sweet corn is usually planted from late spring to early summer in a staggered planting schedule. This results in a high concentration of fungal spores originating from earlier planted sweet corn crops, just when the late planted fields contain susceptible young plants.

Management of Sweet Corn Rust

To reduce the incidence of corn rust, plant only corn that has resistance to the fungus. Resistance is either in the form of race-specific resistance or partial rust resistance. In either case, no sweet corn is completely resistant.

If the corn begins to show symptoms of infection, immediately spray with a fungicide. The fungicide is most effective when started at the first sign of infection. Two applications may be necessary. Contact your local extension office for advice regarding specific fungicides and their uses.

Sweet corn is the taste of summer, but if you grow it in your garden, you could lose your crop to pests or disease. Downy mildew on sweet corn is one of these diseases, a fungal infection that can stunt plants and reduce or destroy the harvest. Knowing how to prevent downy mildew in corn and how to control an infection if you see it in your garden is important.

Downy Mildew in Corn Crops

Downy mildew is an infection caused by a fungus. There are a few varieties of downy mildew that affect corn and other grasses like wheat and oats. Some of the varieties include Crazy Top and Sorghum downy mildew. Regardless of which type may be affecting your sweet corn, the signs are similar, as are the methods for prevention and control. Sweet corn with downy mildew may exhibit several symptoms, including any of the following:

• Yellow, chlorotic, striping on the leaves
• Stunted growth
• Downy, grayish growths on the undersides of leaves
• Rolled or twisted leaves
• Leafy, proliferating tassels
• Ears of corn may or may not grow, but are often stunted

Prevention and Control of Sweet Corn Downy Mildew

A common cause of the infection of downy mildew in sweet corn, or at least that triggers a proliferation of the infection, is excessive moisture. Saturated or flooded soil can cause an infection, and humid conditions contribute to it. To prevent downy mildew, it is important that sweet corn is grown in soil that drains well and in an area that is not prone to flooding. Other ways of managing or preventing sweet corn downy mildew infections is practicing crop rotation and using varieties that are resistant to the fungus. The spores of the fungi that cause these infections are viable for a long time in the soil, so rotating with crops that are not susceptible to infection can help. Also helpful is clearing out plant debris and destroying it to prevent the spread of the spores. If you do see downy mildew in your corn crop, and you catch it early, you can remove affected plants and leaves to prevent spread. You can also try fungicides recommended by your local extension service or nursery. If the infection persists, stop growing corn in that area and put in a non-susceptible plant for a season or two.

Sweet corn is rarely damaged by serious diseases in the home garden, especially when proper cultural practices are followed. However, even with the most vigilant cultural control, Mother Nature doesn’t always play by the rules and may have a hand in fostering seed rot in sweet corn. What causes rotting sweet corn seeds and what can be done to avoid seed rot disease of corn? Let’s learn more.

What is Sweet Corn Seed Rot?

Sweet corn seed rot is a fungal disease that can result from various species of fungi including but not limited to Pythium, Fusarium, Diplodia, and Penicillium. All of these fungal pathogens affect the way the seed germinates, thus seedling development or lack thereof. Infected tissue color reflects which type of pathogen has infected the seed. For example, white to pink tissue indicates the presence of Fusarium, bluish color indicates Penicillium, while water-soaked striations indicate Pythium.

What Causes Rotting Sweet Corn Seeds?

Symptoms of seed rot disease in corn include decay and damping off. If seedlings are infected they yellow, wilt, and leaf drop occurs. Often, seeds fail to germinate at all and simply rot in the soil. Seed rot in corn is most prevalent in soil with temperatures below 55 degrees F. (13 C.). Cool, wet soil slows germination and increases the length of time the seed is exposed to fungi in the soil. Low quality seed also fosters weak seedlings that struggle or die in cold soil. While the disease may attack less rapidly, warm soil will still encourage the disease. In warmer soil, seedlings may emerge, but with rotted root systems and stems.

Control of Seed Rot in Sweet Corn

In order to combat seed rot in sweet corn, use only high quality, certified fungicide treated seed. Also, plant sweet corn on a raised temperature and only after temperatures are consistently above 55 degrees F. (13 C.). Implement other cultural controls to reduce the chance of disease in corn:

• Plant only corn varieties suited to your area.
• Keep the garden free from weeds, which often harbor viruses, as well as insects that may act as vectors.
• Keep the plants regularly watered to avoid drought stress and keep them healthy.
• Remove smutted corn ears immediately and any corn debris post-harvest to reduce the incidence of diseases, resulting from corn smut and rust.

There is nothing quite as disappointing as adding a new plant to the garden only to have it fail due to pests or disease. Common diseases such as tomato blight or sweet corn stalk rot may often discourage gardeners from trying to grow these plants again. We take these diseases as personal failures but, in truth, even experienced commercial farmers experience these problems. Stalk rot in sweet corn is so common that it causes about a 5 to 20% commercial yield loss every year. What causes sweet corn stalks to rot? Continue reading for the answer.

About Stalk Rot in Sweet Corn

Rotting corn stalks can be caused by fungal or bacterial pathogens. The most common cause of sweet corn with rotting stalks is a fungal disease known as anthracnose stalk rot. This fungal disease is caused by the fungus Colletotrichum graminicola. Its most common symptom is shiny black lesions on the stalk. Spores of anthracnose stalk rot and other fungal rots rapidly grow in hot, humid conditions. They can spread by contact, insect vectors, wind, and splash back from infected soils. Another common fungal sweet corn stalk rot is fusarium stalk rot. A common symptom of fusarium stalk rot is pink lesions on the infected corn stalks. This disease can affect the whole plant and may lie dormant in corn kernels. When these kernels are planted, the disease continues to spread. A common bacterial sweet corn stalk rot disease is caused by the bacteria Erwinia chrysanthemi pv. Zeae. Bacterial pathogens enter corn plants through natural openings or wounds. They can be spread from plant to plant by insects. While these are just a few of the fungal and bacterial diseases that cause stalk rot in sweet corn, most have similar symptoms, grow in the same hot, humid conditions, and are commonly spread from plant to plant. Common symptoms of sweet corn stalk rot are discoloration of the stalk; gray, brown, black, or pink lesions on the stalk; white fungal growth on stalks; wilting or distorted corn plants; and hollow stalks that bend, break, and topple over.

Treatment for Sweet Corn with Rotting Stalks

Corn plants that are injured or stressed are more susceptible to rot diseases. Plants with too little nitrogen and/or potassium are susceptible to stalk rots, so proper fertilization can help keep plants disease free. Crop rotation can also add needed nutrients to the soil and stop the spread of diseases. Many pathogens that cause rotting corn stalks may lie dormant in the soil. Deeply tilling fields between crops can prevent the spread of disease from splash back. Since insects often play a role in spreading these diseases, pest management is an important part of controlling sweet corn stalk rot. Plant breeders have also created many new disease-resistant varieties of sweet corn.

Sweet corn is one of summer's many delights. Roasted, steamed, on the cob, off the cob, but always dripping with butter. Rotting corn kernels are a real downer for corn lovers. What causes sweet corn kernel rot? There are several ear rot fungal diseases and even one that is caused by an insect. This article will discuss the varieties of disease and how to diagnose and treat each one for healthier, juicier corn crops.

Causes of Rotting Corn Kernels

Fresh corn on the cob, with its juicy kernels and sweet flavor, is best when it comes straight from the garden plot. If harvest time sees you frustrated because there is kernel rot in sweet corn, it's time to get proactive to prevent the problem next year. Sweet corn with kernel rot is a common sight when weather is wet and humid, and plants exhibit nutrient or cultural deficiencies. Damaged ears from insects or birds are also highly susceptible to rots. Common smut is found in many types of corn and in all kinds of planting situations. The fungus that causes it overwinters in soil for 3 to 4 years. This makes crop rotation extremely important. Injury to the ears from animals, insects or hail provides an entry point for the fungus to colonize. Ears are most commonly affected, showing a white membrane and then exploding open to reveal a black powdery spore mass. Other common kernel rot in sweet corn are Gibberella ear rot, Aspergillus ear rot and black corn. Each is caused by a different fungus. Management is difficult because each is promoted by certain weather conditions, which are impossible to control. Gibberella can be diagnosed by its pinkish, reddish mold. This type of fungus is toxic to humans and other animals, and the ears should be discarded even if mildly infected. Sweet corn kernel rot from insects is also common. In fact, a variety of insects can be responsible for sweet corn with kernel rot. Insect tunnels make an opening for fungi and other diseases to penetrate the cobs. Of the many bugs that like sweet corn as much as we do, the following are going to cause the most problems:

• Corn earworm
• Corn borer
• Sap beetle
• Cutworm
• Fall armyworm

The best way to prevent their damage is to watch for moths and adult beetles. These will lay their eggs on the forming corn ears and the hatched larvae will suck or bore into the kernels. The openings left invite disease. Treatment of corn early in the season usually prevents most insect pests that can cause rot in corn kernels.

Preventing Corn Rot in Plants

It may be cliché, but often putting up a scarecrow will do the trick. Preventing injury to the ears from bird damage can help avoid rot symptoms. Setting sticky traps or using an organic pesticide early in the season may reduce injury from insects and their larvae. A few strains of corn have some resistance where seed has been treated with a fungicide. Because many fungi live in soil and spread easily in wind or by rain splash, some of the damage is hard to avoid. Usually, a small portion of plants will be affected and the rest will be fine. To prevent the spread of the disease, remove the infected plants.

As the name suggests, corn stunt disease causes severely stunted plants that may not exceed 5 feet in height (1.5 m.). Stunted sweet corn often produces multiple small ears with loose and missing kernels. Leaves, especially those near the top of the plant, are yellow, gradually turning reddish purple. If your sweet corn shows signs of corn stunt disease, the following information may help you manage the problem.

Sweet Corn Stunt Causes

Stunt in sweet corn is caused by a bacterial-like organism known as spiroplasma, which is transmitted from infected corn to healthy corn by corn leafhoppers, small insects that feed on corn. The bacteria overwinters in adult leafhoppers, and the pests infect corn in early spring. Symptoms of stunt in sweet corn usually appears about three weeks later.

How to Manage Sweet Corn with Stunt

Unfortunately, there are currently no chemical or biological treatments approved for corn stunt disease. Chemical products for leafhoppers aren’t usually effective. This means prevention is key to reducing sweet corn with stunt. Here are some tips on preventing stunt in sweet corn that might help: Plant corn as early as possible – preferably in early spring, as planting at this time may reduce, but not eliminate, the appearance of leafhoppers and corn stunt disease. The disease tends to be much worse in corn planted in late spring to early summer. If possible, harvest all corn by the middle of autumn to decrease the chance of sweet corn stunt the following spring. Destroy any volunteer corn plants that sprout following harvest. The plants can often provide a winter home for leafhopper adults and nymphs, especially in climates with mild winters. Reflective mulch, a thin film of silver plastic, may repel corn leafhoppers and slow the spread of stunt disease. Remove weeds around corn plants first, then cover the beds with the plastic and anchor the edges with rocks. Cut small holes for planting corn seeds. Remove the film before temperatures get high to avoid the burning of corn plants.

Nematodes may be microscopic, but the tiny worms, which live in the soil, create a gigantic problem when they feed on the roots of sweet corn. Nematodes in sweet corn affect the plant’s ability to take up water and nutrients and significantly affect the health of the plant. Level of damage depends on the severity of the infestation. If you suspect sweet corn nematode pests, here is some information that may help with sweet corn nematode control.

Symptoms of Sweet Corn Nematode Pests

Sweet corn affected by nematodes may display discolored, stunted growth, and the plants may wilt quickly during hot, dry weather. However, the easiest way to determine nematodes in sweet corn is to examine the plant roots. Roots affected by sweet corn nematode pests will have visible swollen areas and knots, and the entire root system may be shallow with dead areas. If you’re still not sure, your local cooperative extensive office can provide a diagnosis.

Treating Sweet Corn Nematodes

Prevention is the best form of sweet corn nematode control. Plant sweet corn when temperatures are above 55 degrees F. (12 C.) to reduce many types of nematodes of sweet corn. Work a generous amount of well-rotted manure or other organic matter into the soil before planting sweet corn. Organic matter will promote healthy soil and improve microbial activity, which improves overall plant health. Avoid planting sweet corn in the same spot for more than one year, as crop rotation prevents sweet corn nematode pests from becoming established. To reduce sweet corn nematode pests, plant garlic, onions, strawberries or other non-susceptible plants for at least three years before returning corn to the area. Remove and destroy sweet corn plants immediately after harvest. Never let the plants remain during the winter. Till the area every ten days beginning immediately after harvest. Regular tilling during hot, dry weather will bring sweet corn nematode pests to the surface, where they will be killed by the sunlight. If possible, till the soil two to four times during the winter.

Corn is relatively easy to grow and getting corn to taste sweet generally involves no more than proper watering and fertilization. When sweet corn isn’t sweet, the problem may be the type of corn you planted or a problem with the timing of harvest. Read on for more details.

Why is My Sweet Corn Not Sweet?

“Get the water boiling before you pick the corn.” This is advice of long-time gardeners, and it’s true. The longer the corn sits after picking, the more the sugars convert to starch and sweetness is lost. This is frequently the simple reason for corn that is not sweet. Harvest time is also critical for sweetness. Harvest when corn is at its peak because sweetness fades quickly. Many experts say sweet corn is perfect for harvesting when the liquid in the kernels turns from clear to milky. Why is my corn not sweet? There’s a very good chance the problem is not with you or your gardening skills, but with the type of corn. There are three genetically different types of sweet corn and all have varying levels of sweetness: Standard sweet corn is moderately sweet. Popular cultivars include ‘Silver Queen’ and ‘Butter and Sugar.’ Sugar-enhanced corn is sweet and tender, retaining its sweet flavor up to three days after harvest. This is why it’s often the number one choice for home gardeners. Examples include ‘Moore’s Early Concord,’ ‘Kandy Korn,’ ‘Maple Sweet,’ ‘Bodacious,’ and ‘Champ.’ Xtra-sweet corn, also known as super-sweet, is the sweetest of all and conversion to starch is a bit slower than standard or sugar-enhanced corn. However, growing is a bit more demanding and Xtra-sweet corn may not be the best choice for new gardeners or those who don’t have a lot of time in the garden. Also, while the corn is delicious when freshly picked, it isn’t quite as creamy when frozen or canned. Examples include ‘Butterfruit Original Early,’ ‘Illini Xtra Sweet,’ ‘Sweetie,’ and ‘Early Xtra Sweet.’

What to do When Corn isn’t Sweet

Gardening is often a trial and error proposition, so it pays to experiment with various varieties to determine which grow best in your area. You can also ask friends or neighbors what types of corn work well for them and get their tips on getting corn to taste sweet. Your local Cooperative Extension office is another great source of information. Keep in mind that if you are growing corn near a patch of field corn, the corn may cross-pollinate, resulting in starchier, less sweet corn. Cross-pollination can also occur between types of sweet corn, so it’s best to limit planting to one type of corn. Corn that results from cross-pollination tends to be starchy and tough, tasting more like field corn.

If you’re going to grow corn, squash, or beans in the garden anyway, you might as well grow all three. This trio of crops is referred to as the Three Sisters and is an age-old planting technique utilized by Native Americans. This growing method is called companion planting with corn, squash, and beans, but there are other plants to grow with corn that are just as compatible. Keep reading to find out about companion planting with corn and suitable corn plant companions.

Companion Plants for Corn

The Three Sisters are made up of corn, winter squash, and mature dry beans, not summer squash or green beans. Summer squash has a short shelf life and hardly any nutrition or calories while winter squash, with its thick outer rind, can be stored for months. Dried beans, unlike green, store for long periods of time and are packed with protein. The combination of these three created a subsistence diet that would have been augmented with fish and game. Not only did this trio store well and provided calories, protein, and vitamins, but planting squash and beans next to corn had qualities that benefited each. The beans set nitrogen into the soil to be used by successive crops, the corn provided a natural trellis for the beans to clamber up, and the large squash leaves shaded the soil to cool it and retain moisture.

Additional Corn Plant Companions

Other companion plants for corn include:

• Cucumbers
• Lettuce
• Melons
• Peas
• Potatoes
• Sunflowers

Note: Not every plant works when companion gardening. Tomatoes, for instance, are a no-no for planting next to corn. This is just a sampling of plants to grow with corn. Do your homework prior to planting corn in the garden to see which ones work well together and are also suited to your growing region.

Tan spots on corn leaves might mean that your crop is suffering from southern corn leaf blight. This devastating disease can ruin the season's harvest. Find out if your corn is at risk and what to do about it in this article.

What is Southern Corn Leaf Blight?

In 1970, 80 to 85 percent of the corn grown in the U.S. was of the same variety. Without any biodiversity, it is easy for a fungus to move in and wipe out a crop, and that is exactly what happened. In some areas, the loss was estimated at 100 percent and amounted to a monetary loss of around a billion dollars. We are smarter about the way we grow corn today, but the fungus lingers. Here are the symptoms of southern corn leaf blight:

• Lesions between the veins in the leaves that are up to an inch (2.5 cm.) long and one-quarter inch (6 mm.) wide.
• Lesions that vary in color but are usually tan and oblong or spindle shaped.
• Damage that begins with the lower leaves, working its way up the plant.

Southern corn leaf blight, caused by the fungus Bipolaris maydis, occurs around the world, but it does the most damage in warm, humid climates such as the southeastern U.S. Leaf blights in northern and western climates are caused by different fungi. Even so, the symptoms and treatments described for the control of southern corn leaf blight may be similar to other leaf blights.

Southern Corn Leaf Blight Treatment

There is no way to save a crop that has the southern leaf blight fungus, but there are a few things you can do to save future crops. The fungus overwinters in the debris left in the corn field, so clean up the corn stalks and leaves at the end of the season and till the soil thoroughly and often to help the roots and underground stems break down. Crop rotation goes a long way toward helping to prevent the disease. Wait four years after growing corn in an area before planting corn in that same area again. Meanwhile, you can grow other vegetable crops in the plot. When you plant corn again, choose a variety resistant to southern corn leaf blight (SLB).

Corn is one of the most adaptable and varied members of the grass family. Sweet corn and popcorn are grown for human consumption but what is dent corn? What are some of the uses for dent corn? Read on to find out about planting dent corn and other pertinent dent corn information.

What is Dent Corn?

Corn – the only important cereal grain indigenous to the Western hemisphere. There are three major types of corn cultivated in the United States: grain or field corn, sweet corn, and popcorn. Grain corn is classified into four main types:

• Dent corn
• Flint corn
• Flour or soft corn
• Waxy corn

Dent corn, at maturity, has an obvious depression (or dent) at the crown of the kernels. The starches within the kernels are of two types: at the sides, a hard starch, and in the center, a soft starch. As the kernel ripens, the starch in the center shrinks causing the depression. Dent corn may have kernels that are long and narrow or wide and shallow. Dent corn is the most common type of grain corn grown in the United States.

Dent Corn Information

As mentioned above, popcorn and sweet corn are grown as food for us corn lovin’ humans. What are dent corns uses though? Dent corn is used primarily as animal feed, although it is grown for human consumption as well; it just isn’t the type of corn that we eat right off the cob. It tends to be less sweet and starchier than the sweet corn varieties and is used in products that are either dry or wet milled. Dent is a cross between flour and flint corn (more specifically, Gourdseed and early Northern Flint), and most heirloom corns from the Southeast and Midwest states are dent corns. Most varieties of dent corn are yellow, although there are white varieties as well, which tend to command a premium price in the dry milling industry. Flour corns are most common in the Southwest and are most often ground finely and used in baking, while flint corns are more common in the Northeast and used for making polenta and johnnycakes. Dent corns, being made up of both, are excellent for any of the above uses and are good roasted or made into grits. If you want to truly make your own grits from scratch, here’s information about how to grow your own dent corn.

How to Grow Dent Corn

You can begin planting dent corn seed when soil temps are at least 65 degrees F. (18 C.) in rich, fertile soil. Plant the seeds an inch (2.5 cm.) deep and 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm.) apart in rows that are 30 to 36 inches (76-91 cm.) apart. When the seedlings are 3 to 4 inches (8-10 cm.) high, thin them to 8 to 12 inches (20-31 cm.) apart. Corn is a nitrogen hog and may need to be fertilized several times for optimal yield. Keep the plants watered regularly. Dent corn is fairly insect resistant due to their very tight husks. Harvest dent corn when the ears are full sized for fresh corn or when the husks are completely yellow and dry for dry corn.

Corn is one of the most popular crops to grow in the home garden. Not only is it delicious, but it is impressive when all goes well. Since this life we lead is unpredictable even with the best laid plans, you may find that your corn plants have yellowing corn leaves. What causes corn plant leaves to turn yellow and how do you go about treating yellowing corn plants?

Help, My Corn Plant is Turning Yellow!

We’ve been growing corn for the last few years with varying success. I've chalked it up to our generally cool summers and the fact that the huge pine trees in the backyard are blocking most of our sun in the veggie garden. So, last year we grew corn in containers on the patio with full sun exposure. Bingo! Of course, we decided to grow our corn in containers again this year. Everything was going swimmingly until almost overnight we noticed the corn leaves were turning yellow. So I turned to the handy dandy internet to find out why my corn plant was turning yellow and learned that there were a few possibilities. First of all, corn is one of the heaviest feeders in the garden. Yellowing corn leaves are most probably an indicator that the crop is deficient in some nutrient, usually nitrogen. Corn is a grass and grass thrives on nitrogen. The plant moves nitrogen up the stalk so a nitrogen deficiency manifests itself as corn leaves turning yellow at the base of the plant. A soil test can help you determine if your plants are low in nitrogen. The solution is to side dress with a high nitrogen fertilizer. Cool weather can also make corn plant leaves turn yellow. Again, this is due to a lack of nitrogen. When soil is cool and wet, the corn has trouble absorbing nitrogen from the soil. So this doesn’t mean there is no nitrogen in the soil, simply that the poor plants are too chilled to efficiently take up enough. The good news is that if cool weather is the culprit the plants will grow out of this yellowing as the weather warms up. Insufficient water will also result in yellow leaves. Corn needs a lot of water, at least once weekly and depending upon the weather up to every day. This was a likely case for our corn yellowing, given that is was container grown and received full sun for most of the day. Disease, such as maize dwarf mosaic virus, can also cause yellowing of leaves combined with stunted growth. This disease is spread by aphids lurking in nearby weeds, such as Johnson grass. Once the plants are infected, it’s over. Remove and destroy the canes and sterilize any tools or work gloves that have come into contact with them. Nematodes also can contribute to yellowing corn leaves. Again, this has to do with a lack of nutrients. The nematodes, microscopic roundworms, live in the soil and attach themselves to the plant’s roots, preventing it from absorbing enough nutrients.

Treating Yellowing Corn Plants

If your soil test indicates a lack of nitrogen, side dress with a high nitrogen fertilizer when the plants have 8-10 leaves and again when the first silk appears. Keep the corn watered on a regular basis. Again, at least once a week and up to once per day to keep the soil moist one inch below the surface. We had an extremely, unusually warm summer with temps into the 90’s (32°C), so we even watered twice a day since our corn was in containers. Use soaker hoses and mulch the soil with 2 inches (5.0 cm.) of grass clippings, straw, cardboard or newspaper to reduce evaporation. Prior to planting, amend the soil with plenty of compost and peat moss. Keep the area around the corn free of weeds to deter insects and disease. Rotate your corn crop if nematodes seem to be the problem. If nematodes seem to be in all areas of the garden, you may need to solarize. This involves covering the garden with clear plastic during the 4-8 hottest weeks of summer. Rather a bummer that you won’t have a garden, but this kills the nematodes as well as weeds and soil pathogens.

Corn is as American as apple pie. Many of us grow corn, or at the very least, we consume quite a few ears each summer. This year we're growing our corn in containers, and of late I've noticed some sort of sucker on the corn stalks. After doing a little research, I found that these are referred to as corn plant tillers. What are corn tillers and should you be removing the suckers from corn?

What are Corn Tillers?

Corn tillers are also sometimes called suckers because of the old wives tale that they “suck” nutrients from the plant. The question is, “Is it true that suckers on corn stalks will adversely affect yield?” Tillers on corn are vegetative or reproductive shoots that grow from the axillary buds on the lower five to seven stalk nodes of a corn plant. They are commonly found on corn. They are identical to the main stalk and can even form their own root system, nodes, leaves, ears, and tassels. If you find similar buds at nodes that are higher up on the main stalk, they are undoubtedly not corn plant tillers. They are called ear shoots and differ from tillers with shorter ears and leaves, and the stalk ends in an ear rather than a tassel. Tillers on corn are generally a sign that the corn is growing in favorable conditions. However, tillers sometimes develop after an injury to the main stalk early in the growing season. Hail, frost, insects, wind, or damage caused by tractors, humans, or deer may all result in the formation of tillers. Usually, the tillers don't have enough time to develop into mature ears before the weather turns and frost kills them. Sometimes, however, they will make it to maturity and an extra little bounty of corn may be harvested. With favorable conditions -- ample light, water, and nutrients, tillers form because the corn has surplus energy to foster tiller development. Tillers are usually formed later in the growing season and don’t usually become ears of corn, key word -- usually. Generally, because they are so late, they are “forced” out by the competitive maturing ears. Sometimes though, if conditions are just right, you may end up with a bonus ear of corn.

Are Suckers on Corn Stalks Detrimental?

Tillers appear to have no adverse effect on corn; in fact, as mentioned above, you might possibly get an additional ear or two. Since tillers are also referred to as suckers and most of us remove suckers from plants, the idea is to remove them. Should you be removing suckers from corn plants? There doesn't seem to be any reason to remove them. They aren't harming the plant and natural selection may do the work for you. Also, if you try to prune them, you risk causing damage to the main stalk, which can open it to insects or disease. Better to be safe than sorry and just leave the corn tillers alone.

Summer storms can wreak havoc in the home garden. While the rain accompanying the storm is welcome, too much of a good thing can batter foliage, sometimes irreversibly. Tall stands of corn are particularly susceptible to heavy rain, not to mention the almost synonymous winds, leaving one to wonder how to save knocked over corn. Can you restore bent corn plants?

Can I Restore Bent Corn Plants?

If rain or wind blew corn over, fixing the knocked over corn may be a question of how severely the plants are damaged. Often the corn is bent over at a 45-degree angle at the very least, sometimes it has been battered down to the ground. When the corn stalks are mildly bent over, they may just rebound themselves given a bit of time. Maybe you need to mound a bit of dirt around the base to aid in straightening them up. In more severe cases, you may need to stake the stalks when fixing the knocked over corn.

How to Save Knocked Over Corn

You should primarily be concerned with corn that has been blown over if fertilization has not been completed. Leaning stalks will prevent the pollen from drifting down the tassels to the silks, thwarting pollination. If this is the case, the stalks should be straightened. If the wind blew corn over rather spectacularly, the roots of the corn may be pulled from the soil. When root systems lose half their contact with the soil, the term “root lodging” is used. Plants that are root lodged can often regenerate new roots and orient upright on their own, hopefully before pollination. Corn plants usually get bent stems after severe wind or rain after pollination when the stalks are stronger, and yet carrying the weight of ears of corn. Straighten the plants and stake them with bamboo poles and plastic wire ties, then keep your fingers crossed. If two people are available, sometimes you can get a line on either end of a row and pull an entire row up. Tamp down around the roots or water at the base of the plants to push any loose soil around the roots and fill any air pockets near them. Most of the time, corn stalks will straighten themselves out within a week, especially if they have yet to tassel and aren't too heavy. Even so, if the ears are near maturity, leave the plants alone since they are almost ready to harvest anyway. Depending upon the severity of damage, sometimes helping the corn out by trying to straighten it does more harm than good. You may end up breaking or bending the stems even worse. Large commercial corn fields tend to have less damage due to the density of the plantings. The home gardener's relatively small plot tends to get the brunt. If your region is prone to these sudden storms, a good idea is to bury the stem of the corn in a deep layer of compost. This will not only give excellent nutrition to the roots, but aid in supporting the stalk in general.

Everybody knows that the sweetest corn comes straight off the stalk, and that's why so many home gardeners set a little spot aside for a few dozen ears of this golden vegetable. Unfortunately, if you grow corn, you may end up growing corn smut galls, too. Smut of corn is a very distinctive fungus that causes leaves, fruit, and silk to form large silvery or greenish galls. Up to 20 percent losses due to corn smut fungus have been recorded, but it's still considered a minor corn disease -- and even a delicacy in some places.

What is Corn Smut?

Corn smut is caused by a fungus called Ustilago zeae, which is commonly blown on the wind from an infected stand to an uninfected stand of corn. The spores can live up to three years, making them very hard to completely destroy. The fungus is generally considered an opportunistic fungus, only able to move into the tissues of your corn plants through damaged or torn tissues, but if they get a chance to infect, they waste no time. Once the Ustilago zeae spores find an opening in your corn, it takes about 10 days for the galls to appear. These unsightly growths vary in size but can reach up to five inches (13 cm.) across, with the smaller galls appearing on leaf and silk tissues and the larger erupting from maturing ears. Although this fungus wasn't what you planted or even hoped for when you were thinking about growing corn, it's considered a delicacy in and of itself, as long as you harvest the corn smut galls while they're still young. In Mexico, they call it cuitlacoche and it's used in cooking in a similar way as a white mushroom.

Treating Corn Smut Disease

Corn smut control can be difficult, if not impossible, to eliminate, but you can at least minimize the exposure your corn gets to the fungus year after year. Always make sure to clean up all the corn debris in your patch as it falls, since it can harbor more corn smut spores. If you remove the galls while they're still young, that will also help to reduce the spore exposure level. If you've had corn smut problems in the past, trying a more resistant variety of sweet corn may help, too. Look for the white corn varieties before your next corn planting. These include:

• Argent
• Brilliant
• Fantasia
• Pristine
• Seneca Sensation
• Seneca Snow Prince
• Seneca Sugar Prince
• Silver King
• Silver Prince
• Summer Flavor 72W

We're growing corn this year and it's sort of awe-inspiring. I swear I can practically see it growing right before my eyes. As with everything we grow, we hope the outcome will be some juicy, sweet corn for late summer BBQs, but I've had some problems in the past, and maybe you have too. Have you ever grown corn plants without ears?

Why is My Corn Not Producing Ears?

A corn plant not producing could be the result of climate changes, disease, or insect problems that are affecting the plant's ability to pollinate properly, which may cause it to not be forming healthy ears or any ears at all. To fully answer the question, “Why is my corn not producing ears,” a lesson in corn reproduction is in order. Corn plants produce individual male and female flowers, both of which start out as bisexual. During the flower's development, the female traits (gynoecia) of the male flowers and male features (stamens) of the developing female flower terminate. The end result is a tassel, which is male, and an ear, which is female. Silks that emerge from the ear are the stigma of the female corn flower. Pollen from the male flower adheres to the end of the silk, which grows a pollen tube down the length of the stigma to reach the ovary. It's basic 101 corn sex. Without proper production of silk or sufficient pollination, the plant won't produce kernels, but what causes the plant to produce no ears of corn at all? Here are the most probable reasons:

• Poor irrigation - One reason corn plants are not producing ears has to do with irrigation. Corn has shallow roots, and is, therefore, susceptible to lack of water. Drought stress is usually indicated by leaf roll along with a change in the hue of the leaves. Also, too much irrigation can wash off pollen and affect the plant's ability to grow ears.
• Diseases - Secondly, diseases such as bacterial wilt, root and stalk rots, and viral or fungal diseases can all result in no ears on corn stalks. Always buy inoculated, clean seed from reputable nurseries and practice crop rotation.
• Pests - Nematodes may also infect soil surrounding the roots. These microscopic worms feed on the roots and disrupt their ability to absorb nutrients and water.
• Fertilization - Also, the amount of nitrogen available to it affects the plant by fostering foliage growth, resulting in no ears of corn on the corn stalks. If limited nitrogen is available, the plant needs lots of calcium and potassium in order to produce ears.
• Spacing - Lastly, one of the most common reasons for no ears of corn on corn stalks is space. Corn plants should be planted in groups 4 feet (1 m.) long with at least four rows. Corn relies on the wind to pollinate, so the plants need to be close enough together when they tassel to fertilize, otherwise, hand pollination of corn may be necessary.

If you have withering corn plants, the most likely cause is environmental. Corn plant problems such as wilting may be the result of temperature fluxes and irrigation, although there are some diseases that afflict corn plants that may result in wilted corn plants, too.

Environmental Causes of Wilting Corn Stalks

Temperature - Corn thrives in temps of between 68-73 F. (20-22 C.), although the optimal temperature fluctuates over the length of the season and between day and night temperatures. Corn can withstand short cold snaps (32 F./0 C.), or heat spurts (112 F./44 C.), but once the temperature drops to 41 F. (5 C.), growth slows significantly. When temps are over 95 F. (35 C.), pollination can be affected and moisture stress is more likely to affect the plant; the result is a corn plant that is wilted. Of course, this problem can be rectified by providing adequate irrigation during periods of high heat and drought. Water - Corn requires about 1/4 inch (6.4 mm.) of water per day during the growth season for optimal production and increases during pollination. During periods of moisture stress, the corn is unable to absorb the nutrients it needs, leaving it weakened and susceptible to diseases and insect attack. Water stress during vegetative growth stages reduces stem and leaf cell expansion, resulting in not only smaller plants, but often wilting corn stalks. Also, moisture stress during pollination will reduce potential yield, as it interrupts pollination and can cause up to a 50 percent reduction.

Other Reasons for Withering Corn Plants

There are two diseases that will also result in a corn plant that is wilted. Stewart's bacterial wilt - Stewart's leaf blight, or Stewart's bacterial wilt, is caused by the bacterium Erwinia stewartii which is spread among the corn field via flea beetles. The bacterium overwinters in the flea beetle's body and in spring as the insects feed on the stalks, they spread the disease. High temperatures increase the severity of this infection. Initial symptoms affect the leaf tissues causing irregular streaking and yellowing followed by leaf wilt and eventually stalks rot. Stewart's leaf blight occurs in areas where winter temperatures are mild. Cold winters kill off the flea beetle. In areas where Stewart's leaf blight is an issue, grow resistant hybrids, maintain mineral nutrition (high levels of potassium and calcium) and, if need be, sprayed with a recommended insecticide. Goss's bacterial wilt and leaf blight - Another disease caused by bacterium is called Goss's bacterial wilt and leaf blight, named thus because it causes both wilt and blight. Leaf blight is the most common symptom, but may also have a systemic wilt phase wherein the bacterium infect the vascular system, leading to a wilting corn plant and eventual stalk rot. The bacterium overwinters in infested detritus. An injury to the corn plant's leaves, such as that caused by hail damage or heavy winds, allows the bacteria to enter the plants system. Obviously, to control the spread of this disease, it's important to either rake up and properly dispose of plant detritus or till deep enough to encourage decomposition. Keeping the area weed free will also reduce the chances of infection. Also, rotating crops will cut down on the incidence of the bacterium.

Have you ever grown gorgeous, healthy corn stalks, but upon closer inspection you discover abnormal corn ears with little to no kernels on corn cobs? Why is corn not producing kernels and how can you steer clear of poor kernel production? Read on to learn more.

Reasons for No Kernels On Corn

First of all, it's helpful to know a little about how corn is formed. Potential kernels, or ovules, are seeds awaiting pollination; no pollination, no seed. In other words, each ovule must be fertilized in order to develop into a kernel. The biological process is very much like that of most animal species, including humans. Each tassel is the male part of the corn plant. The tassel releases around 16 to 20 million specks of “sperm.” The resultant “sperm” is then carried to the female corn silk hairs. Carriers of this pollen are either breezes or bee activity. Each silk is a potential kernel. If the silk does not catch any pollen, it does not become a kernel. Therefore, if either the male tassel or female silk are malfunctioning in some way, pollination will not occur and the result is poor kernel production. Abnormal corn ears with large bare patches are usually the result of poor pollination, but the number of ears per plant is determined by what type of hybrid is grown. The maximum number of potential kernels (ovules) per row is determined a week or so prior to the emergence of the silk, with some reports of up to 1,000 potential ovules per ear. Early season stresses can influence ear development and engender corn that is not producing kernels.

Additional Stressors Resulting in Poor Kernel Production

Other stressors that can affect the production of kernels are:

• Nutritional deficiencies
• Drought
• Insect infestation
• Cold snaps

Heavy rains during pollination can affect fertilization and, thus, affects kernel set. Excessive humidity has the same effect.

How to Get Corn to Produce

Sufficient nitrogen is needed in the early stages of corn development to set the maximum number of kernels. A weekly dose of a high nitrogen and high phosphorus food such as fish emulsion, alfalfa meal, compost tea, or kelp tea is recommended for healthy plants with maximum yield. Plant your corn in blocks rather than rows, 6 to 12 inches (15-31 cm.) apart with plenty of compost and organic mulch around each corn stalk. This will aid in increasing pollination, simply due to close proximity. Lastly, maintain a consistent watering schedule so the plant does not have to deal with the stress of dry soil conditions. Consistency, promotion of pollination, and avoiding putting the plant through stressful conditions are crucial for optimal kernel and general ear production.

Ornamental corn plants can be implemented in a variety of decorative schemes to celebrate Thanksgiving or Halloween or just complement autumn's natural hues. There are six types of corn: dent, flint, flour, pop, sweet and waxy. The color of the ear has nothing to do with its classification; instead, corn is grouped by kernel type (endosperm). Most ornamental corn varieties are derived from pop type corn as a result of its smaller ears more suitable for indoor decorative purposes. Also called ornamental Indian corn, there are a multitude of ornamental corn plants valued for ear size; plant height; or color of kernel, husk or stalk.

Ornamental Corn Varieties

There are a great number of ornamental corn varieties owing in part to the easy cross pollination among the species. Some, although not all types, of ornamental corn varieties are as follows:

• Outdoor maze varieties - Maze corn, Broom Corn and Big
• Small eared varietals - Indian Fingers, Miniature Blue, Little Boy Blue, Cutie Pops, Miniature Pink, Little Bo Peep, Little Miss Muffet, Cutie Pink, Robust Ruby Red and Little Bell
• Large eared types - Autumn Explosion, Autumn Splendor, Earth Tones Dent, Green and Gold Dent, Indian Art and Shock Dent

Growing Ornamental Corn

Ornamental corn plants, just as sweet corn or field corn varieties, freely cross-pollinate and should therefore be isolated. So, one of the first things to consider when growing ornamental corn, if sowing more than one type, is to maintain a physical separation of 250 feet or greater and plant varieties whose maturation date is at least two weeks different. Purchase disease resistant seeds or starts from a reputable nursery. When growing ornamental Indian corn, it is essential to have well-draining soil. Areas of sod that have been in fescue are ideal arenas for ornamental corn plants; however, an application of organic insecticide might be wise at planting time as their later harvesting date leaves them especially vulnerable to insect invasion. Ornamental corn seeds should be planted after soil temps have reached 55-60 F. (13-16 C.) and in most areas between May 15 to May 25 for a September harvest. Sow the ornamental corn plant seeds to a depth of 1-2 inches deep and 8-10 inches apart for small eared varieties and 10-12 inches apart for large eared. Planting rows should be about 30-42 inches apart. Hoe between rows or apply an herbicide to control weeds.

Harvesting Ornamental Corn

Ornamental corn is harvested by hand after the husk has dried and when the ears are no longer green but dried slightly and fully mature. To harvest, break the ears off with a quick downward tug leaving the husk on to finish drying over the course of a week. After the weeks drying period, the husk may be removed for ornamental purposes.

Ornamental Corn Uses

The primary purpose for growing ornamental corn is for its decorative aspects. The beautiful fall colors of the ears and husks lend themselves to holiday and autumn wreaths, floral arrangements and groupings combined with festive, long lasting miniature pumpkins, gourds and hay bales. Another of ornamental corn uses is its addition as a late fall, early winter food source for the critters in the home garden. Deer, groundhogs, raccoons and birds all enjoy dining on ornamental corn.

There's a belief among gardeners that the best corn you'll ever have is plucked from the garden and immediately taken to the grill --kids on farms sometimes have races to see who can get the maple-honey sweet ears from the field to the cook first. Of course, being kids, they may not know to watch for corn rootworm injury, a potentially serious problem of corn stands large and small. If you're looking for corn rootworm information, you've come to the right place. Read on to learn more about the corn rootworm beetle and how to control it on your home-grown corn.

What are Corn Rootworms?

Corn rootworms are the larval stage of the corn rootworm beetle, a pollen-feeder that can cause considerable damage to corn and soybeans. These yellow-green beetles are elongated, measure up to about 5/16 inches (8 mm.) in length and bear black stripes of various widths or spots on their wing covers. Larval rootworms remain in the soil, feeding on the roots of maturing corn and soybeans. Sometimes, these pests tunnel into the root itself, causing them to turn brown, or chew them back to the crown of the plant. Occasionally, rootworms burrow into the crown of the plant as well. All this damage reduces available water and nutrients, causing the plant considerable stress as it's trying to develop corn or soybeans. Adults feed on corn silks, attracted by pollen shed. They often clip the silks, causing poor development of corn ears. Adult corn rootworm beetles also feed on foliage, stripping a single layer of tissue from affected leaves, and causing white, parchment-like areas of dead tissue to occur.

Controlling Corn Rootworms

Control of corn rootworm beetle is difficult in the home garden, since many control methods are limited to commercial producers. However, if your corn stand is small, you can always handpick adults as soon as they appear on your silks and drop them into a bucket of soapy water. Check every day, carefully looking under each leaf as well as in silks. Hand-picking requires some determination, but if you can break the life cycle of the corn rootworms, you'll have a better corn crop. Crop rotation is very effective prevention, provided you don't rotate with soy or other legumes. Corn rootworms in some areas have developed a taste for these wholesome beans and their cousins, so choose something significantly different to rotate with your corn. Tomatoes, cucumbers, or onions may be better choices, depending on your garden configuration. Planting early corn is another way many home gardeners avoid these pesky insects. Corn that pollinates from late April to mid May avoids trouble from the adult beetles, which emerge in late May or June.

Got soil, got a container, got a balcony, rooftop, or a stoop? If the answer to these is yes, then you have all the ingredients necessary to create a mini garden. Thereby the answer to “Can you grow corn in containers?” is a resounding “Yes!”

How to Grow Corn in a Container

First of all, when growing corn in pots, you must select a container. Use your imagination. Not only will a clay pot work, but lined wooden crates, garbage cans, laundry baskets, barrels, etc. will all suffice. Just be sure they have adequate drainage and are big enough to support fully-grown corn plants: at least 12 inches (30.5 cm.) wide and over 12 inches (30.5 cm.) deep. Only about four corn plants will fit with room to grow in a 12-inch (30.5 cm.) pot, so you may need several depending on available space. The next step for container-grown corn is to select the variety of corn. Consider not only what you prefer either for ornamental purposes or for taste, but also varieties suited for growing corn in pots. Corn pollinates via the wind and can cross-pollinate very easily. For this reason, it's best to select and plant just one type of corn variety. Corn plants that produce shorter stalks are a good bet for growing corn in pots. Some examples of these are:

• Strawberry Popcorn
• Sweet Spring Treat
• Sweet Painted Mountain
• Trinity
• Chires Baby Sweet

You may want a fast-growing variety of corn such as BonJour or Casino, or if you live in an area with cooler, short-growing seasons try Painted Mountain. Super sweet varieties of corn are:

• Bodacious
• Sugar Pearl
• Xtra Tender
• Vision

Use container garden soil specifically formulated to retain moisture and add a bit of fish emulsion or other all-purpose fertilizer to the mix. Space the corn seeds 4-6 inches (10 to 15 cm.) apart, four seeds per container, about an inch (2.5 cm.) deep into the soil media. If planting multiple pots of corn seeds, space the containers 5-6 inches (12.5 to 15 cm.) away from each other.

Care of Corn in Containers

There's nothing complex regarding the care of corn in containers. Corn needs full sun and warm soil, so situate it in an area that gets six or more hours of full sun, ideally against a wall that will retain heat and reflect light. Water regularly in the morning with a 10-10-10 fertilizer added once the plants are 2 feet (0.5 m.) tall. Water the corn again in the evening. Mulching around the plants with wood chips, newspaper, or grass clippings will also aid in water retention. With sunny days and fairly minimal care, you should be reaping your corn bounty from your own front steps or lanai in no time.

The key to sweet, juicy corn is knowing when to harvest corn. Whether you like it grilled, sautéed, or added to salads and soups, harvesting corn at the right time will ensure maximum flavor and kernel development. Most of us know the feeling of shucking an ear and the kernels are dry, or failed to form. Learn when to pick sweet corn and enjoy ears full of tasty kernels.

When to Harvest Corn

The eye is the most important tool in determining when to harvest corn. Corn is at its best when in the milk stage. This is when a kernel that is pierced will exude a milky juice. But without shucking the ear there are several tell tale signs that the fruit is ready to consume.

How to Tell When Corn Is Ready to Pick

The stalks are tall, the silk is present, and chubby ears are evident on the stems. But when is corn ready to harvest? Corn in the milk stage has silks that are brown and dry at the tip of the ear. On average, the milk stage commences about 20 days after the silk appears, although this will vary by variety and cultural factors. The milk stage only lasts a week so it is important to keep an eye on developing ears as soon as the first silks are in evidence. Corn matures more quickly in hot weather and the ears need to be watched carefully. Overly ripe corn is tough and lacks sweetness, while underdeveloped ears have clear, almost flavorless juice and many underfilled kernels. Stunt disease in corn can also make your stalks and ears underdeveloped. When the silks begin to darken on healthy plants, it's time to gently squeeze the ears to determine firmness. You can also observe the tip kernels peeking out of the husk. These should be full and firm, indicating the rest of the corn is ready to harvest.

How to Harvest Corn

You may opt for a cutting tool to remove the ears from the stalk. A knife or even pruners will cut through the attaching tissues. A novice gardener wondering how to harvest corn can simply hand process the fruit. Grasp just below the ear and make a decisive downwards pull. Give a twist and the ear should pop right off the stalk. Do not clench around the ear itself as you will crush and ruin the kernels. Pick corn in the coolness of the morning or at night. Use corn as soon as possible for the best flavor. After the corn has been eaten, discarded corn husks have uses too!

How to Store Corn After Harvesting

Keep the husk on until ready to eat the ear. Store corn in the vegetable crisper until you are ready to eat it. Most corn will lose 50 % of its sugar within 12 hours of harvest, so ears taste best right off the plant no matter the variety of sweet corn. Corn can be stored in the refrigerator for 4-8 days, but some of the sweetness will be sacrificed. Corn may be canned or frozen to extend its usefulness. For either method, remove the husk and silk. Cut off the kernels and blanch them in order to can the corn. Frozen whole cobs are blanched for 2 minutes, flash chilled, wrapped, and frozen for later use. You may also cut the kernels off and freeze them.

Frequently Asked Questions

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Fields of waving corn stalks are a classic sight in many United States regions. The impressive height and sheer volume of the plants is a symbol of American agriculture and a cash crop of huge economic importance. In order to keep this cash crop at its best, preventing cross pollinating in corn is vital. Keep reading to learn more.

Can Corn Cross Pollinate?

Corn pollinates with the help of the wind, which catches the fine dust and swirls it around the field. Some corn is self pollinating, but the majority relies upon the other plants standing with it for pollination. Can corn cross pollinate? Most varieties cross pollinate easily, but the resulting plants are not of the same variety as the parent plants, and may even be a completely different strain. The hybrid strains dilute over time with cross pollination, resulting in plants that do not carry the carefully cultivated traits. The next generations can even revert back to carrying the problems that the original plants had been bred to prevent.

Corn Cross Pollination Info

So what's going on with cross pollination of corn? Instead of pollinating insects such as moths, bees, and butterflies exchanging pollen among plants with their activities, corn needs wind. This random, chancy method of pollination allows a huge area to be pollinated by the same strain of pollen. As a gust of wind ruffles the tassels of the corn plants, it catches ripe pollen and sweeps it over the other corn flowers. The danger arrives when there is another strain of corn growing nearby. The effects of cross pollinating can yield next generation plants that bear unfavorable traits. Much research has been done on improving hybrids of the plant in an effort to increase yield, reduce pest and disease problems, and create a more vigorous variety of corn. Cross pollination of corn can reduce these gains in biological engineering that science has developed. Preventing cross pollinating in corn is important to preserve the strain of corn that's been planted.

Preventing Cross Pollination of Corn

Farmers with high yield production are armed with corn cross pollination info that helps them prevent the loss of the original crop. The effects of cross pollinating can be reduced characteristics, but it can also include a phenomenon called hybrid vigor. This is when the next generation or two from cross pollinating result in enhanced plants. This is not usually the case, so preventing cross pollination of corn is important to preserve the variety of crop that the grower has selected for its qualities. The best way to do this is to keep other strains from nearby fields. Only plant one variety of corn to keep open pollination from becoming cross pollination and moving into other corn varieties. Preservation of the desired traits can only come from untainted crops, which receive pollen only from their strain. Pollen can travel a mile in a couple of minutes with only a 15 mph wind, but the number of granules is greatly diminished. Researchers have decided that a 150 foot (46 m.) buffer between different corn varieties is sufficient to prevent the majority of cross pollination.

The European corn borer was first reported in the United States in 1917 in Massachusetts. It was thought to have come from Europe in broomcorn. This insect is one of the most damaging corn pests known in the United States and Canada, causing over one billion dollars of damage to corn crops annually. Even worse, corn borers don't limit their damage to corn and can damage over 300 different garden plants including beans, potatoes, tomatoes, apples, and peppers.

Corn Borer Life Cycle

Also known as the corn root borer, these destructive pests do their damage as larva. Young larvae eat leaves and munch on corn tassels. Once they are done eating leaves and tassels, they tunnel their way into all parts of the stalk and ear. The 1 inch (2.5 cm.) long, fully mature larvae are flesh colored caterpillars with a red or dark brown head and distinct spots on each body segment. These fully grown larvae spend the winter in plant parts that they have been eating. Pupation happens in late spring, and adult moths appear in May or June. Mature female moths lay eggs on host plants. Eggs hatch as soon as three to seven days and the young caterpillars begin to eat the host plant. They are fully developed in three to four weeks. Pupation takes place inside corn stalks and second-generation moths start laying eggs early in the summer to begin yet another corn borer life cycle. Depending on the climate, there could be one to three generations with the second generation being most destructive to corn.

Controlling Corn Borers in Corn

It's imperative to shred and plow under cornstalks in fall or early spring before the adults have a chance to emerge. Several beneficial insects find corn borer eggs a delicacy, including ladybugs and lacewings. Stink bugs, spiders, and hover fly larvae will eat young caterpillars. Other known corn borer control methods include using garden insect sprays to kill young caterpillars. It is important to spray plants every five days until tassels start to brown. Another beneficial corn borer treatment method involves keeping garden and surrounding areas free of weeds. Moths like to rest and mate on tall weeds, which will increase the number of eggs laid in your garden area.

You've planted your corn and to the best of your ability have provided adequate corn plant care, but why are your corn plant tassels coming out so soon? This is one of the most common problems with corn and one that leaves many gardeners wanting answers. Let's learn more about what may be causing early corn tasseling and what, if anything, can be done about it.

What are Corn Plant Tassels?

The male flower of the corn plant is known as a corn tassel. After the bulk of the plant growth is complete, tassels will appear on top of the plant. Corn plant tassels can be green, purple, or yellow. The tassel's job is to produce pollen that encourages the growth and ripening of the corn ear. Wind carries the pollen to the female flower, or the silk, on the corn plant. Corn is not overly difficult to grow; however, some gardeners have concerns when their corn tassels too soon.

Growing Corn and Corn Plant Care

Corn is most productive when the daytime temperatures are between 77 and 91 F. (12-33 C.) and the temperatures at night are between 52 and 74 F. (11-23 C.). Corn needs lots of moisture, especially on hot and sunny days when the humidity is low. Corn needs at least 1 inch (2.5 cm.) of water every seven days until it is about 15 inches (38 cm.) tall and at least an inch (2.5 cm.) of water every five days until tassels form. After tassels form, corn needs to be watered 1 inch (2.5 cm.) every three days until the corn matures.

Problems with Corn Tassels Too Soon

In order for sweet corn to grow to its full maturity, proper tasseling, silking, and pollination are necessary. However, early corn tasseling usually results when plants are stressed. Corn that is exposed to cold temperatures early in the growing season may develop tassels too early. On the flip side, corn tassels too soon can occur if it is stressed by drought, nutrient deficiencies, or hot and dry conditions. One of the best ways to deal with early corn tasseling is by planting corn during the most desired times and providing adequate moisture and nutrients to help the corn set tassels at the right time and resist stressful conditions. If your corn tassels too soon, however, do not worry. Most of the time the plant will continue to grow and produce tasty corn for you.

Most of us love to eat it but did you know that in addition to buying it from the store, you can actually enjoy growing popcorn in the garden? Popcorn is not only a fun and tasty crop to grow in the garden, but it will also store for several months after harvesting. Keep reading to learn more about popcorn plant info and how to grow popcorn in your own garden.

Popcorn Plant Info

Popcorn (Zea mays var. everta) is a Native American plant grown for its tasty, exploding kernels. The two types of popcorn that are grown are pearl and rice. Pearl popcorn has round kernels, while rice popcorn kernels are elongated. Growing popcorn and sweet corn in the same garden produces disappointing results because of cross pollination. Cross pollination yields popcorn with a high percentage of unpopped kernels and poor quality sweet corn. Popcorn matures 100 days or so after planting. Each ear yields one serving of popcorn, and each plant produces one or two ears. So where can you find popcorn plants? Popcorn doesn't transplant well, so it is mostly grown from seeds planted directly in the garden. There are numerous seed varieties to choose from and most garden centers carry them. You can also order popcorn from reputable seed companies, and your local extension office can offer advice on those that perform well in your area.

Popcorn Growing Conditions

Popcorn needs full sun and rich, well-drained soil. Work a 2 to 4 inch (5-10 cm.) layer of compost into the soil before planting, and spread 1 ½ pounds (0.5 kg.) of 16-16-8 fertilizer over the soil, watering it in thoroughly. Choose a location with access to irrigation because just like other corn plants, popcorn plants require plenty of water during the growing season. Grow popcorn plants in groups to ensure good pollination and well-filled ears. A single plant produces ears with few or no kernels and a few plants produce ears that are poorly filled out. Most home gardeners grow popcorn in several short rows.

How to Grow Popcorn

Plant popcorn when all danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm. Sow the seeds 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) deep and space them 8 to 10 inches (20-25 cm.) apart. Rather than planting them in one or two long rows, create a series of short rows spaced 18 to 24 inches (46-61 cm.) apart. The plant density assures good pollination. Drought stress seriously impacts the quality of the harvest, so keep the soil moist at all times. Popcorn needs 1 ½ to 2 inches (4-5 cm.) of water per week from either rain or irrigation. Popcorn needs an abundance of nitrogen during the growing season. When the plants have eight to ten leaves, side-dress with ½ pound (225 g.) of high-nitrogen fertilizer per 100 square feet (9.29 sq. m.). Spread the fertilizer down the sides of the rows and water it in. Side-dress again with ¼ pound (115 g.) of fertilizer once the ears form silk. Weeds compete with popcorn for nutrients and moisture. Cultivate the soil around the plants regularly to eliminate weeds. Take care not to damage the roots or pull the soil away from the plants while cultivating. Harvest popcorn when the husks are completely dry and the kernels are hard. Remove the husks after harvest and hang the ears in mesh bags in a well-ventilated area. After removing the kernels from the ears, store them in air-tight containers at room temperature. Now that you know more about popcorn growing conditions, you can begin growing popcorn in your garden for continued enjoyment of this tasty treat.

How wonderful it would be to reap a bounty of corn if all we needed to do was drop the seeds in their little hole and watch them grow. Unfortunately for the home gardener, manual pollination of corn is almost a necessity. Even if your plot of corn is fairly large, learning how to hand pollinate corn can increase your yield and help prevent those sterile stalks that are often found along the edges of your planting. Before you learn about hand pollinating corn, it helps to know a little about the plant itself.

How Corn Pollination Happens

Corn (Zea mays) is actually a member of a family of annual grasses and while it doesn't produce showy petals, it does have both male and female flowers on each plant. The male flowers are called the tassel. That's the part that looks like grass gone to seed that blooms at the top of the stalk. As the tassel ripens, pollen is shed from the center spike downward to the lower fronds. The female parts of the stalk are the ears located at leaf junctions and the female flowers are the silks. Each strand of silk is connected to one kernel of corn. Pollination occurs when pollen touches the strand of silk. This seems like pollination should be easy. The pollen drifting down from the tassel should pollinate the ears below, right? Wrong! 97 percent of an ear's pollination comes from other plants, which is why it is important to know when and how to pollinate corn.

Timing for Hand Pollinating Corn

In larger fields, wind takes care of corn pollination. Between air circulation and stalks jostling one another in the wind, there is enough natural agitation to spread the pollen. In smaller garden plots, the gardener takes the place of the wind and the gardener needs to know when to do the job as well as how. To pollinate corn efficiently, wait until the tassels are fully open and beginning to shed the yellow pollen. This usually begins two to three days before silk emerges from the embryonic ears. As soon as the silk emerges, you're ready to begin the manual pollination of corn. Pollination will continue for another week under ideal conditions. Most pollen shedding occurs between 9 and 11 a.m., after the morning dew has dried. Cool, cloudy, or rainy weather can delay or inhibit pollination.

How to Hand Pollinate Corn

Timing is everything. Once you have the when, how to hand pollinate corn is a snap. Literally! Ideally, hand pollinating corn should be done in the morning, but many gardeners have bosses who object to taking time off for such endeavors, so early evening, before dew fall, is your best alternative. Snap the tassels off a few stalks and use them like feather dusters. Dust over the emerging silks at each ear. You'll be hand pollinating corn for about a week, so use your judgment as to how many tassels you snap per dusting. Start at the opposite ends of your rows each night to help equalize the distribution. That's it! You've successfully completed your manual pollination of corn. A relaxing stroll through the garden and a little light wrist action is all it takes. You'll be surprised at how relaxing hand pollinating corn can be. Sure beats a lot of other garden chores and the rewards will be well worth the time.

Sweet corn plants are definitely a warm season crop, easy to grow in any garden. You can plant either sweet corn plants or super sweet corn plants, but don't grow them together because they may not do well. Read on to learn more.

Sweet Corn vs. Traditional Corn

So what's the difference between growing traditional field corn and growing sweet corn? Simple: the taste. Many people grow corn, but what is known as field corn has a starchier flavor and a slightly harder cob. Sweet corn, on the other hand, is softer and has a pleasantly sweet taste.

Planting sweet corn is fairly easy and not much different than growing traditional corn. Practicing proper planting will keep it growing healthy throughout the summer so you can be eating fresh corn on the cob in no time.

How to Grow Sweet Corn

Be sure when planting sweet corn that the soil is warm -- at least above 55 degrees F. (13 C.). If you plant super sweet corn, be sure the soil is at least 65 degrees F. (18 C.), as super sweet corn prefers a warmer climate.

The best way on how to grow sweet corn is to plant an early variety near the beginning of the season, then wait a couple weeks to plant another early variety, and then plant a later variety. This will help you to have fresh sweet corn to eat all summer long.

Planting Sweet Corn

When planting sweet corn, plant the seeds 1/2 inch (1 cm.) deep in cool, moist soil and at least 1 to 1 1/2 inches (2.5-4 cm.) deep in warm, dry soil. Plant 12 inches (31 cm.) apart with at least 30 to 36 inches (76-91 cm.) between rows. This protects the plants from cross-pollination if you have planted different varieties.

When growing sweet corn, it's important to note that you can plant different corn varieties, but you don't want them near each other. If you cross sweet corn plants with other varieties of corn, you can get starchy corn, which is something you don't want.

You can cultivate the corn rows shallowly, so you do not injure the roots. Make sure you water the corn if there has been no rain so they get enough moisture.

How and When to Pick Sweet Corn

Picking sweet corn is easy enough to do. Each stalk of sweet corn should produce at least one ear of corn. This ear of corn is ready to pick about 20 days after you see signs of the first silk growing.

In order to pick the corn, just grab the ear, twist, pull in a downward motion, and snap it off quickly. Some stalks will grow a second ear, but it will be ready at a later date.

Sweet corn requires little care. It's one of the easiest plants to grow in a garden, and sweet corn plants almost always do well. You'll be enjoying sweet corn in no time!