As the growing season winds down, it’s a great time to protect and recondition soil. Planting certain types of cover crops can provide extra nutrients, improve tilth, and prevent erosion due to inclement weather. Late summer cover crops are easy to start and can help fix nitrogen in soil and reduce compaction. In some cases, their late blooms will also provide nectar for pollinating insects. 

The end of the harvest season signals the beginning of soil protection. As our harvests are finishing, the vegetable garden should be tidied and rejuvenated for the following season. Summer cover crops started in August take advantage of the warm weather for quick germination and establishment. Legumes and grains are the top choices for cover crops, with each having distinct benefits. 

Grains vs Legumes

Some cover crops are best sown in spring, such as Dutch clover. It is used to cover and improve soil prior to planting vegetables. Other crops need heat to grow and may be sown in August. 

Grains have the ability to enhance organic matter in soil and increase porosity when tilled into the earth, while increasing carbon. Planting a grain crop enhances biodiversity and contributes to crop rotation schedules. In areas where the crop is grazed, the animal's manure also adds nutrients to the soil. Legumes harness nitrogen from the air through a symbiotic relationship with soil dwelling bacteria. This in turn is returned to the soil in a process called nitrogen fixing. The nitrogen is stored in the soil for the next season's cash crops. There are both grain and legume crops for summer, but the general rule is to plant grain or vegetable crops followed by legumes. 

Summer Grain Crops

The additional carbon released from decomposing grain crops is a perfect partner for the nitrogen reaped from a legume crop. A summer buckwheat cover crop will provide a thick weed-proof stand in just a few weeks. It is a classic cover crop for short period use. Other grains like oats are also useful in weed suppression and soil stabilization. 

Some grain crops can survive winter and are tilled in the spring before they set seed. Annual ryegrass overwinters in many areas and keeps soil in place during winter storms. Winter wheat, sorghum, pearl millet, and rye are also good crops to plant in late summer, with the potential to overwinter. 

Legume Cover Crops

Some legume crops will overwinter, such as a crimson clover cover crop. This plant will also provide beautiful red blooms that feed late season pollinators. It is tilled into soil in spring, enhancing nitrogen and tilth. 

Hairy vetch is very hardy and will retain its greenery through winter. It does have the potential of becoming a nuisance and should be tilled in prior to blooming for control. Some legume cover crops are inoculated with rhizobia to enhance nitrogen gain. Combination grain and legume seed mixtures are available and provide diversity for maximum soil benefit.

Sunn hemp grass is a warm weather grass that thrives in poor soil. It provides many benefits when used as a cover crop. The member of the legume family displays bright green leaves and yellow blooms that soon turn into brownish pods. Although Sunn hemp cover crop is fairly new to North America, it has been grown in India for centuries. Read on to learn more about Sunn hemp uses, with helpful tips on growing Sunn hemp as a cover crop.

Sunn Hemp Plant Information: Sunn Hemp Uses

Sunn hemp is a tropical or subtropical plant that requires warm weather for at least 8 to 12 weeks. It is a perennial in Hawaii, southern Florida, and southern Texas but can be grown as a summer crop in most areas of North America. When planted as a cover crop (sometimes known as “green manure”) it provides nitrogen, builds organic matter, improves soil health, reduces erosion, and conserves water. 

Sunn hemp grass adapts to nearly any soil type, including sand. This is a rapidly growing plant that develops a sturdy root system and reaches heights of six feet (2 m.) very quickly in warm climates. Don’t confuse Sunn hemp with industrial hemp. The two plants serve very different purposes. Unfortunately, it may be difficult to locate Sunn hemp seeds.

Sunn Hemp Cover Crop: Tips on Growing Sunn Hemp

Cultivate the soil well, then plant seeds ½ to 1 inch (1.25-2.5 cm.) deep. Water Sunn hemp grass whenever the soil is dry. Although Sunn hemp is drought tolerant, it performs best with at least an inch (2.5 cm.) of moisture every week. Till the plants back into the soil before the next planting season.

Sunn Hemp Plant Info: Is Sunn Hemp Grass Invasive?

Sunn hemp grass can become weedy and aggressive in certain climates. Check with your local cooperative extension office before planting.

There's a growing awareness among gardeners concerning the use of non-native plants. This extends to the planting of vegetable cover crops. What are cover crops and are there any benefits to using native plants as cover crops? Let's explore this phenomenon and you can decide if cover cropping with native plants is right for you.

What are Vegetable Cover Crops?

In lieu of tilling garden soil at the end of the growing season, gardeners are finding value in sowing what is best described as “green” manure cover crops. These vegetable cover crops are planted in the fall, grow over winter, and then are tilled into the soil in the spring.

Cover crops prevent erosion of garden soil and leaching of nutrients over the winter, once these plants are tilled into the soil, they begin returning nutrients to the garden. Legume cover crops have the nitrogen-fixing ability and actually return more nitrogen to the soil than they consumed.

Hairy vetch, white clover, and winter rye are among the most popular cover crops gardeners use. Surprisingly, these are not native cover crops for North America. Although not typically considered invasive, these species have become naturalized in most parts of the world.

Benefits of Native Crop Cover

Gardeners and commercial growers are finding positive effects from cover cropping with native plants. These benefits include:

• Beneficial insects – Native cover crops provide the natural food and habitat for native insect populations living within the same ecosystem. This boosts beneficial insect populations, which can provide better control of harmful invasive bugs.
• Better adapted – Native crop cover plants are well-adapted to the local climate. They can often be established with little to no irrigation, and they require less maintenance. 
• Non-invasive – While some indigenous plants might have aggressive tendencies, you'll never have to worry about controlling the spread of an invasive species when using native plants.
• Better nutrient return – Typically, native crop cover plants have deeper roots than non-native species. As these plants grow, they pull nutrients from deeper layers of the earth. Once these native cover crops are tilled under, natural decomposition returns these nutrients closer to the surface.

Choosing Native Plants as Cover Crops

Gardeners interested in vegetable cover cropping with native plants are best advised to consult their local extension agent or agricultural agency for information on local indigenous species. Often, native cover crop seeds are difficult to find or expensive to purchase.

Here are some species which have been considered when using native plants as cover crops:

• Annual ragweed
• Blue wild rye
• California brome
• Canada goldenrod
• Common wolly sunflower
• Common yarrow
• Hooker's balsamroot
• Phacelia tanacetifolia
• Prairie June grass
• Purple vetch
• Scarlet gilia

Field brome grass (Bromus arvensis) is a type of winter annual grass native to Europe. First introduced to the United States in the 1920s, it can be used as a field brome cover crop to control erosion and enrich the soil.

What is Field Brome?

Field brome belongs to the brome grass genus containing over 100 species of annual and perennial grasses. Some brome grasses are important forage plants while others are invasive species that compete with other native pasture plants.

Field brome can be differentiated from other brome species by the soft, hair-like fuzz that grows on the lower leaves and stems, or culms. This grass can be found growing wild along roadsides, wastelands, and in pastures or croplands throughout the United States and southern provinces of Canada.

Field Brome Cover Crop

When using field brome as a cover crop to prevent soil erosion, sow seeds in late summer or early autumn. During the fall, plant growth remains low to the ground with dense foliage and considerable root development. A field brome cover crop is suitable for grazing during the fall and early spring. In most areas, it is winter hardy.

Field brome experiences rapid growth and early flowering in the spring. Seed heads usually appear by late spring or early summer, after which the grass plant dies back. When using it for a green manure crop, till the plants under during the pre-bloom stage. The grass is a proficient seed producer.

Is Field Brome Invasive?

In many areas, field brome grass has the potential to become an invasive species. Due to its early spring growth, it can easily crowd out native grass species which come out of winter dormancy later in the season. Field brome robs the soil of moisture and nitrogen, making it even more difficult for native plants to flourish.

Additionally, the grass increases plant density by tillering, a process in which plants send out new grass shoots containing growth buds. Mowing and grazing stimulate tiller production. As a cool season grass, late fall and early spring tillering further displace native pasture forage.

Before planting in your area, it's advisable to contact your local cooperative extension office or state agricultural department for field brome information regarding its current status and recommended uses.

South Dakota's state grass is wheatgrass. This perennial, cool season grass is native to North America and graces the southwest, Great Plains, and mountainous regions of the western U.S. It has some erosion control benefits but using western wheatgrass for grazing is the primary purpose. If you are trying to reclaim rangeland, read on for tips on how to grow western wheatgrass.

What is Western Wheatgrass?

Western wheatgrass (Pascopyrum smithii) is one of the preferred foods for deer, elk, horses, and cattle in spring and occasional fodder for sheep and antelope. The plant may also be grazed in fall but protein levels are much lower. Western wheatgrass for forage and as a soil stabilizer makes this an important plant to grow and conserve. This wild grass begins growing in spring, goes dormant in summer, and sprouts anew in fall. It prefers moderate soil temperatures of at least 54 degrees F. (12 C.) and even thrives in clay. The plant spreads through rhizomes and can achieve 2 feet (61 cm.) in height. The leaves and stems are blue-green with foliage that is flat when young and rolled inward when dormant and dry. The blades are ribbed and rough with prominent veining. Seedheads are narrow spikes, 2 to 6 inches (5-15 cm.) long. Each contains spikelets with six to ten florets.

How to Grow Western Wheatgrass

Rhizome spread and seed are the main ways of growing western wheatgrass. In its wild state, it generally self-propagates, but managed landowners must sow seed in very early spring. Heavy to medium textured soil is best for establishment. The plant may also be seeded in late summer provided adequate irrigation is available. Poor germination is common and generally only 50 percent of seedlings survive. This is balanced by the plant's ability to send out rhizomes and colonize a healthy stand Prevention of competitive weeds is important but herbicides should not be used until seedlings reach the four to six leaf stage. Alternatively, mow as weedy plants prior to reaching their flowering stage to prevent more weed growth.

Using Western Wheatgrass for Forage

Not only are spring stands of western wheatgrass excellent forage but the plant dries well and can be used for winter hay. Most domestic grazers find the plant palatable and even pronghorn and other wild animals use the plant for food. When using western wheatgrass for grazing, proper management can help encourage growth. A stand should be grazed moderately to allow the plants to recover more quickly and produce more forage. Rest and rotation are the recommended form of management. When seedheads are allowed to develop, they provide food for songbirds, game birds, and small mammals. This really is a remarkable and useful native plant, not only for food but erosion control and to smother some common weeds.

What is chickling vetch? Also known by various names such as grass pea, white vetch, blue sweet pea, Indian vetch, or Indian pea, chickling vetch (Lathyrus sativus) is a nutritious legume grown to feed livestock and humans in countries around the world.

Grass Pea Information

Chickling vetch is a relatively drought-tolerant plant that grows reliably when most other crops fail. For this reason, it is an important source of nutrition in food-plagued areas. Agriculturally, chickling vetch is often used as a cover crop or green manure. It is effective as a summer crop, but can overwinter in mild climates after fall planting. Chickling vetch has ornamental value as well, producing white, purple, pink, and blue blooms in midsummer, often on the same plant. Planting chickling vetch for nitrogen is also common. Chickling vetch fixes a tremendous amount of nitrogen in the soil, importing as much as 60 to 80 pounds (27 to 36.5 kg.) of nitrogen per acre (4047 sq. m.) when the plant grown for at least 60 days. It also provides a huge amount of beneficial organic matter that can be composted or plowed back into the soil after flowering. The creeping vines and long roots provide excellent erosion control.

How to Grow Chickline Vetch

Growing chickling vetch is an easy endeavor with just a few guidelines to follow. Chickling vetch is suitable for growing in average temperatures of 50 to 80 F. (10 to 25 C.). Although chickling vetch adapts to nearly any well-drained soil, full sunlight is a necessity. Plant chickling vetch seeds at a rate of 2 pounds (1 kg.) per 1,500 square feet (140 sq. m.), then cover them with ¼ to ½ inch (0.5 to 1.25 cm.) of soil. Although chickling vetch is drought tolerant, it benefits from occasional irrigation in hot, arid climates.

Note on Toxicity of Chickling Vetch Seeds

Immature chickling vetch seeds can be eaten much like garden peas, but they are toxic. Although the seeds are harmless in small quantities, eating large amounts on a regular basis may cause brain damage in children and paralysis below the knees in adults.

What are Austrian winter peas? Also known as field peas, Austrian winter peas (Pisum sativum) have been grown around the world for centuries, primarily as a valuable source of nutrition for humans and livestock. Don’t confuse Austrian winter peas with cowpeas, which are also known as field peas in the southern states. They are different plants. Read on for info on growing Austrian winter peas.

Austrian Winter Pea Information

Today, Austrian winter peas are often planted agriculturally as a cover crop, or by home gardeners or backyard chicken farmers. Game hunters find that growing winter Austrian winter peas is an effective means of attracting wildlife such as deer, quail, doves, and wild turkeys. Austrian winter peas have ornamental value, and the peas are tasty in salads or stir fries. Many gardeners like to plant a few seeds in a patio container outside the kitchen door. Austrian winter pea is a cool season legume related to the familiar garden pea. The vine plants, which reach lengths of 2 to 4 feet (0.5 to 1 m.), bear pink, purple, or white blooms in spring. When used as a cover crop, Austrian winter peas are often planted with a mixture of seeds such as oilseed radishes or various types of clover.

How to Grow Austrian Winter Peas

When growing Austrian winter peas, here are some helpful tips to keep in mind: Austrian winter peas perform well in nearly any type of well-drained soil. However, the plants need consistent moisture and don’t do well in arid climates where rainfall is less than 20 inches (51 cm.) per year. Austrian winter peas are winter hardy in USDA zones 6 and above. Seeds are typically planted in autumn, after the hottest days of summer have passed. The vines may do well in colder climates if they are protected by a good snow cover; otherwise, they are likely to freeze. If this is a concern, you can plant Austrian winter peas as an annual in early spring. Look for inoculated seeds, as inoculants convert nitrogen in the atmosphere into usable form, a process known as “fixing” nitrogen, and will also promote vigorous, healthy growth. Alternatively, you can purchase inoculant and inoculate your own seeds. Plant Austrian winter pea seeds in well-prepared soil at a rate of 2 ½ to 3 pounds (1 to 1.5 kg.) for every 1,000 square feet (93 sq. m.). Cover the seeds with 1 to 3 inches (2.5 to 7.5 cm.) of soil.

Berseem clover cover crops provide excellent nitrogen in soil. What is berseem clover? It is a legume that is also a wonderful animal forage. The plant is said to have originated from a wild strain native to Syria, Lebanon and Israel which is now extinct. The plant is not tolerant of extreme heat or cold but thrives in moderately dry to extremely wet regions. Berseem clover plants are also quite attractive in bloom when used as an annual ground cover. Learn how to grow berseem clover and harness all the benefits of this marvelous plant in your garden.

What is Berseem Clover?

There are several reasons for growing berseem clover. It is not only an excellent cover crop and forage but is also useful as a weed suppressor, produces prolific seed, can be a perfect companion crop with oats, a green manure, and a nursery plant for alfalfa. Because it cannot withstand most winter temperatures, it is often used as a winter killed crop prior to planting corn. This fast growing plant produces more biomass than comparable legume crops. Berseem clover plants (Trifolium alexandrinum) belong in the legume family, which means their roots bear nodules which fix nitrogen in soil. This is a winning trait when combined with heavy nitrogen feeders like soybeans and corn. This variety produces more seed and foliage than red clover and is tolerant of alkaline soil. Berseem clover resembles alfalfa with fluffy white bloom heads. The stems are hollow and grow up to 2 feet (.61 m.) in length and the leaves are oblong, hairy and lack a watermark. Although native to the Mediterranean, the plant has been introduced to Florida, California and other parts of the southern U.S. It takes between 50 and 90 days to obtain a seed crop, depending what time of year the plants are sown.

How to Grow Berseem Clover

Seeds grown in early fall will mature in just 50 days. It can grow as a summer annual in moist, cool regions and as a winter annual where no frost occurs and winter is long and warm. In order to produce seed, it is suggested that February is the ideal time to sow the clover. Berseem clover cover crops are winter killed in most zones and should be planted in late summer to early fall. The variety tends to grow more quickly in fall and spring. The seed is quite tiny, much smaller than white clover, and is usually broadcast on a firm seed bed. The seeds will germinate with very little moisture. The recommended seeding rate is 20 lbs. per acre (9.07/.406 h.). Seed should be covered by ½ to 1 inch (1 to 2.5 cm.) of soil. Berseem can regrow if mown or grazed provided they are cut before bloom. It is often mowed several times for forage and then finally turned under as a green manure. The cuttings can be harvested 4 to 6 times at 4-week intervals in mid-winter to early summer. Mowing when the plants are 9 inches (23 cm.) high causes them to send out side shoots. In order to produce seed, only three cuttings can take place. When it is cut as silage, the plant causes less ruminant bloating than other clovers. Berseem has the potential to be an important food and cover crop in temperate areas.

Growing white sweetclover is not difficult. This weedy legume grows readily in a lot of conditions, and while some may see it as a weed, others use it for its benefits. You can grow white sweetclover as a cover crop, to make hay or pasture for livestock, to break up hardpan, or to enrich the nutrient content of your soil.

White Sweetclover Info

What is white sweetclover? White sweetclover (Melilotus alba) is a legume that is biennial and often used in farming. The plant has a big root system and deep taproots. Although it is called a clover, this plant is more closely related to alfalfa. White sweetclover will grow to about three to five feet (1 to 1.5 m.) in height, and the taproot extends nearly as deep into the soil. As a biennial, white sweetclover produces white flower stalks every two years. Reasons to grow white sweetclover include using it for hay and pasture. If you keep any livestock, this is a great plant for your pasture and for making hay for winter feed. As a legume it can fix nitrogen to the soil, so white sweetclover is also a popular cover crop and green manure plant. You can grow it in your garden between seasons and then till it into the soil to increase nutrient content and to improve the structure of the soil. The long taproots break up soil that is hard and compact.

How to Grow White Sweetclover

While some people consider white sweetclover to be a weed, others grow it for pasture, tillage, cover, and green manure. White sweetclover benefits may suit your garden, and if so, you can grow it easily. It tolerates a variety of soils, from clay to sandy, and will also grow in a pH environment from six to eight. Thanks to its big taproot, white sweetclover will also tolerate drought well once it has become established. Until then, water regularly.

What is woollypod vetch? Woollypod vetch plants (Vicia villosa ssp. dasycarpa) are cool-season, annual legumes. They have compound leaves and pinkish flowers on long clusters. This plant is usually grown as a woollypod vetch cover crop. For more information about woollypod vetch plants and tips on how to grow woollypod vetch, read on.

What is Woollypod Vetch?

If you know anything about the vetch family of plants, woollypod vetch looks quite similar to other annual and perennial vetches. It’s an annual and a cool-season crop. Woollypod vetch plants are low-lying plants with stems that trail up to a yard. A climber, it will go up any support at all, even grass or grain stems. Most people growing woollypod vetch plants do so to use it as a legume cover crop. Woollypod vetch cover crops fix atmospheric nitrogen. This helps in field crop rotation. It is also beneficial in orchards, vineyards, and cotton production. Another reason for growing woollypod vetch plants is to suppress weeds. It has been used successfully to suppress invasive weeds like star thistle and medusahead, an unpalatable grass. This works well since woollypod vetch can be seeded on untilled ground.

How to Grow Woollypod Vetch

If you want to know how to grow woollypod vetch, it is best to work the soil a bit before planting the seeds. Although the seeds may grow if scattered, their chances are greater if you broadcast lightly, or else drill to a depth of 0.5 to 1 inch (1.25 – 2.5 cm). Unless you have grown vetch in the field recently, you’ll need to inoculate the seeds with a “pea/vetch” type rhizobia inoculant. However, you won’t need to irrigate the crop at all in winter. Growing woollypod vetch will provide your soil with dependable, abundant nitrogen and organic matter. Vetch’s strong root system develops nodules early, enough to provide the plant with its own nitrogen and also accumulates significant amounts for the crops that will follow. The woollypod vetch cover crop keeps the weeds down and its seeds make the wild birds in the area happy. It also attracts pollinators and beneficial insects like minute pirate bugs and lady beetles.

Soil building crops are nothing new. Cover crops and green manure are common in large and small gardens. Subterranean clover plants are legumes and, as such, have the capacity to fix nitrogen in soil. Nitrogen availability is crucial for much of a plant's growth. Subterranean clover (Trifolium subterraneum) is a plant that spreads through underground stolons, or specialized stems, which fix nitrogen. The plant is useful in many different cropping applications.

What is Subterranean Clover?

Subterranean clover uses span many areas from soil improvement to beneficial insect habit. There are several species that thrive in Mediterranean environments, most of which thrive if planted in late summer to early fall. Plants go dormant in winter but come back into full leaf and bloom in spring. The name for the clover actually comes from its reproduction process, not its spread through stolon. In spring, the seeds mature in a bur that is just below the soil surface. The plant is an annual legume but will readily reseed itself. This makes it an easy plant for use as a weed suppressor, erosion control, soil conditioner, animal fodder, and natural mulch or ground cover. In most cases, the plant will come back annually, just from the seed of the previous season, especially if old growth is mowed down or grazed. Subterranean clover plants can be difficult to manage if you wish to kill the stand. Organic control is primarily through mowing, hand pulling and deep tillage at mid-bloom.

Subterranean Clover Uses

Adding nitrogen to soil is one of the primary subterranean clover uses. As a soil conditioner, it not only adds nitrogen but loosens soil and provides a cover crop that will compost into soil as a green manure. The plant's broad network of stolons act as a weed suppressor by choking out the roots of competitive species and smothering the emerging seedlings. The plant is a useful forage for range animals, especially when planted with ryegrass or fescue. The plant is high in protein and later adds nutrients in a close cropped situation. The clover is also of benefit in soil conservation and erosion control. The dense mat of vegetation efficiently grabs soil and holds it in place. Another of the uses for sub-clover is as cover for beneficial insects as well as suppression of pest insect egg laying. Studies show the plant can reduce thrips and caterpillar populations, especially in Brassicas and Allium.

How to Grow Subterranean Clover

Subterranean clover requires slightly acidic soil, and a warm, wet winter and dry summer. The plants need about 15 inches (38 cm.) of rainfall. The seed for this clover is surface sown or just under a thin film of soil. After that, the plants just take off. Clover is one of the easier plants to grow, with vigorous shooting and spread. In most areas, plants stop production of leaves and stolon in late spring to early summer. The biomass remaining can be worked into soil, mowed or burned. The removal of the old plants is important to the re-establishment of seeds the next season. One caveat regarding the plants and animals is that the clover can have high levels of oestrogen which can affect the fertility of females. It does not affect cows or goats but in areas with sheep, its use should be limited.

Very few nitrogen fixing cover crops are as breathtaking as crimson clover. With their bright crimson red, conical blooms atop tall, fleecy stems, one might think a field of crimson clover was planted purely for aesthetic appeal. However, this little plant is a tough workhorse in agriculture. Continue reading for more crimson clover information.

Crimson Clover Information

Crimson clover (Trifolium incarnatum) is native to the Mediterranean region. Also called incarnate clover because of their blood red blooms, crimson clover has been used as a cover crop in the United States since the mid 1800s. Today, it is the most common legume cover crop and forage plant for livestock in the U.S. Although it is not a native species, crimson clover has also become an important source of nectar for honeybees and other pollinators in the U.S. Crimson clover plants are grown as an annual cover crop and, like other members of the legume family, they fix nitrogen in the soil. What sets crimson clover apart from other clover cover crops is their quick establishment and maturation, their cool weather preference, and their ability to grow in poor, dry, sandy soils where perennial clovers do not establish well. Crimson clover prefers sandy loam but will grow in any well-draining soil. However, it cannot tolerate heavy clay or waterlogged areas.

How to Grow Crimson Clover

Crimson clover as a cover crop is seeded in the southeastern U.S. in fall to function as a nitrogen fixing winter annual. Its optimal growing temperatures are between 40 and 70 degrees F. (4-21 C.). Crimson clover plants prefer cool climates and will die back in extreme heat or cold. In cool, northern climates, crimson clover can be grown as a summer annual cover crop, seeded in spring as soon as the danger of frost has passed. Due to its attractiveness to pollinators and nitrogen fixing ability, crimson clover is an excellent companion plant for fruit and nut trees, corn, and blueberries. When growing crimson clover in pastures as a livestock forage plant, it is over seeded amongst grasses in late summer or fall to provide food for livestock during the winter months. As a green manure crop, it can produce about 100 pounds (45 kg.) of nitrogen per acre. It can be grown alone in pure stands, but crimson clover seed is oftentimes mixed with oats, ryegrass, or other clovers for diversified plantings. In the home garden, crimson clover plants can correct nitrogen depleted soils, add winter interest, and attract pollinators.

Alsike clover (Trifolium hybridum) is an extremely adaptable plant that grows along roadsides and in moist pastures and fields. Although it isn’t native to North America, it is found in cool, damp areas across the northern two-thirds of the United States. Plants have three smooth leaves with serrated edges. Small, whitish-pink or bicolor flowers appear along the length of the stems in late spring and early summer. If you’ve never considered growing hybridum alsike clover, perhaps you should. Read on to learn more.

Alsike Information

What is alsike clover used for? Alsike clover isn’t planted on its own. Rather, it is seeded along with grass or other plants, such as red clover, to improve soil, or as hay or pasture. It is rich in nutrition, providing food and protective cover for livestock and wildlife. It can be difficult to tell alsike clover from red clover, but it can be an important distinction. Unlike alsike clover, the leaves of red clover are not serrated, and they display a white ‘V’ while alsike clover leaves have no markings. Also, alsike clover, which reaches mature heights of 2 to 4 feet (61 cm. to 1 m.) is taller than red clover, which maxes out at 12 to 15 inches (30.5-38 cm.). Avoid planting alsike clover in horse pastures, however. The plants may harbor a fungal disease that causes horses to become photosensitive, in which areas of the skin turn white before becoming red and painful. In severe cases, fungus in alsike clover may cause liver disease, evidenced by symptoms such as weight loss, jaundice, colic, diarrhea, neurological disturbances, and death. The fungus is most prevalent in rainy climates or irrigated pastures. Other livestock should be introduced gradually to a pasture containing alsike because the clover may increase the risk of bloat.

How to Grow Alsike Clover

Growing alsike clover is possible in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 8. Alsike clover performs best in full sun and moist soil. Alsike prefers moist soil but tolerates acidic, alkaline, infertile, or poorly drained soil. However, it doesn’t tolerate drought. You can plant alsike clover seeds with grass, or overseed the seed into grass in spring. Plant alsike clover at a rate of 2 to 4 pounds (1-2 kg.) per acre. Avoid nitrogen fertilizer, which may damage alsike clover.

Cover crops are not just for farmers. Home gardeners can also use this winter cover to improve soil nutrients, prevent weeds, and stop erosion. Legumes and grains are popular cover crops, and triticale as a cover crop is great alone or as a mix of grasses and cereals.

Triticale Plant Information

Triticale is a grain, all of which are types of domesticated grass. Triticale is a hybrid cross between wheat and rye. The purpose of crossing these two grains was to get the productivity, quality of grain, and disease resistance from wheat and the hardiness of rye in one plant. Triticale was developed decades ago but never really took off as a grain for human consumption. It is most often grown as forage or feed for livestock.

Farmers and gardeners alike are beginning to see triticale as a good choice for a winter cover crop. It has a few advantages over other grains, like wheat, rye, or barley:

• Triticale produces more biomass than other grains, which means there is more potential for adding nutrients to the soil when plowed under in the spring.
• In many areas, triticale can be planted earlier than other grains because it has a higher resistance to certain diseases.
• Winter triticale is very hardy, hardier than winter barley.
• As compared to winter rye, winter triticale produces fewer volunteer plants and is easier to control.

How to Grow Triticale as a Cover Crop

Growing triticale cover crops is pretty straightforward. You just need seeds to sow. Triticale can be sown any time from late summer to early fall in any area of your garden in which you need to enrich the soil or prevent weed growth. Just be sure to sow the seeds early enough for your area that they will be established before the weather turns really cold. Adding a complete fertilizer to the soil before sowing will help the triticale get better established.

Sowing triticale is similar to growing grass from seed. Rake the soil, spread the seeds, and rake the soil again. You want the seeds lightly covered to prevent birds from eating them. The best part of growing cover crops is that they are low maintenance.

Once they start growing, they won’t need much attention. In the spring, mow the triticale down really low and plow it into the soil about two to three weeks before you want to plant your garden.

Most legumes grown in the home garden, including beans and peas, are annual plants, which means they complete a life cycle in a single year. Perennial legumes, on the other hand, are those that live for more than two years.

Why Grow Perennial Legumes?

What are perennial legumes? Legumes, plants that belong to the family Fabaceae, are grown specifically for their seeds. Beans and peas are the most well-known legumes, but the legume family also includes many others, such as:

• Alfalfa
• Lentils
• Chickpeas
• Mesquite
• Soybeans
• Clover
• Peanuts

Agriculturally, legumes are valued cover crops for their ability to fix nitrogen in the soil. This ages-old technique, which involves growing plants in fall and winter before plowing them into the soil in spring, is also used by home gardeners. Planting perennial legumes and other cover crops not only improves soil nutrition but also loosens compacted soil, prevents erosion, and helps keeps weeds in check. Perennial legumes also make effective and attractive groundcovers.

Perennial Legume Varieties

Perennial legume varieties include several types of clover-- such as alsike clover, white clover, red clover, and yellow sweet clover-- as well as perennials such as crown vetch, cowpeas, birdsfoot trefoil, and various varieties of perennial peanuts. The best perennial legume for your area depends on a number of factors, including your USDA plant hardiness zone. Perennial legumes vary in hardiness.

How to Grow Perennial Legumes

Planting perennial legumes isn’t difficult. Here are a few tips: Grow perennial legumes in full sunlight. Work the soil well prior to planting, as legumes grow best in loose, fertile soil with plenty of organic matter. Water well at planting time. Once established, perennial legumes require little water until flowering, but be sure to irrigate if plants appear wilted. When flowering begins, water well to encourage development of pods. Also, keep the perennial legume plants well weeded. Contact your local cooperative extension office for more specific details regarding planting perennial legumes in your particular area.

Velvet beans are very long climbing vines that produce white or purple flowers and deep purple bean pods. They’re popular as medicine, cover crops, and occasionally as food. Keep reading to learn more about planting and growing velvet beans in the garden.

Velvet Bean Information

What is a velvet bean? Velvet bean plants (Mucuna pruriens) are tropical legumes that are native to southern China and eastern India. The plants have spread throughout much of Asia and are often cultivated around the world, especially in Australia and the southern United States. Velvet bean plants are not frost hardy, but they have a short lifespan and even in hot climates they are almost always grown as annuals. (Occasionally they can be treated as biennials). The vines are long, sometimes reaching 60 feet (15 m.) in length.

Growing Velvet Beans

Velvet bean planting should take place in spring and summer, after all chance of frost has passed and soil temperature is at least 65 degrees F. (18 C). Plant the seeds to a depth of 0.5 to 2 inches (1-5 cm.). Velvet bean plants naturally fix nitrogen in the soil, so they don’t need any additional nitrogen fertilizer. They do respond well to phosphorus, however.

Velvet Bean Uses

In Asian medicine, velvet beans are used to treat a range of symptoms including high blood pressure, infertility, and nervous disorders. The pods and seeds are purported to kill intestinal worms and parasites. In the West, the plants tend to be grown more for their nitrogen fixing properties, working as a cover crop to restore nitrogen to the soil. They are also sometimes grown as animal feed, both for farm and wild animals. The plants are edible, and the beans have been known to be boiled and eaten and ground as a coffee substitute.

Agronomy is the science of soil management, land cultivation, and crop production. People who practice agronomy are finding great benefits in planting teff grass as cover crops. What is teff grass? Read on to find out how to grow teff grass cover crops.

What is Teff Grass?

Teff grass (Eragrostis tef) is an ancient staple grain crop thought to have originated in Ethiopia. It was domesticated in Ethiopia in 4,000 to 1,000 B.C. In Ethiopia, this grass is ground into flour, fermented, and made into enjera, a sourdough type of flatbread. Teff is also eaten as a hot cereal and in the brewing of alcoholic drinks. It is used for livestock forage and the straw is also used in the construction of buildings when combined with mud or plaster. In the United States, this warm-season grass has become valuable summer annual forage for livestock and commercial hay producers that need a rapidly growing, high-yielding crop. Farmers are also planting teff grass as cover crops. Teff grass cover crops are useful for suppressing weeds and they produce an excellent plant structure that doesn’t leave the soil lumpy for successive crops. Previously, buckwheat and sudangrass were the most common cover crops, but teff grass has advantages over those choices. For one thing, buckwheat has to be controlled when it matures and sudangrass requires mowing. Although teff grass needs occasional mowing, it requires less maintenance and doesn’t produce seed, so there is no unwanted offspring. Also, teff is more tolerant of dry conditions than either buckwheat or sudangrass.

How to Grow Teff Grass

Teff thrives in many environments and soil types. Plant teff when the soil has warmed up to at least 65 degrees F. (18 C.) followed by temperatures of at least 80 degrees F. (27 C.). Teff germinates on or very near the surface of the soil, so a firm seedbed is important when sowing teff. Sow seeds no deeper than ¼ inch (6 mm.). Broadcast the tiny seeds from late May through July. Keep the seedbed moist. After only about three weeks, seedlings are fairly drought tolerant. Mow teff to a height of 3 to 4 inches tall (8-10 cm.) every seven to eight weeks.

Cover crops add nutrients to depleted soils, prevent weeds, and control erosion. Which type of cover crop you use depends on which season it is and what your specific needs are in the area. Of course, the choice of cover crop also depends on your hardiness zone. In this article, we’ll discuss growing cover crops in zone 7.

Hardy Cover Crops

It's late summer and you have reaped a bountiful harvest from your vegetable garden. Production of fruits and vegetables has drained the soil of its nutrients, so you decide to plant a fall cover crop to restore nutrients to the tired vegetable garden, essentially making it ready for the following spring season. Cover crops are often used to renew used-up beds. For this purpose, there are fall cover crops and spring cover crops. Hardy cover crops are also commonly used to control erosion in areas where spring rains tend to cause a muddy mess. In barren, sterile areas of your yard where nothing will seem to grow, a cover crop can be used to loosen up the soil and enrich it with nutrients. There are a few main types of zone 7 cover crops that fulfill different needs for different locations. These different types of cover crops are legumes, clovers, cereals, mustards, and vetch.

• Legumes add nitrogen to the soil, prevent erosion, and attract beneficial insects.
• Clovers suppress weeds, prevent erosion, add nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, loosen up dry hardpan soil, and also attract bees and other pollinators.
• Cereals refer to plants like oats and barley. Cereal grains can pull nutrients up from deep within the soil. They also control weeds and erosion and attract beneficial insects.
• Mustards contain toxins that kill or suppress weeds.
• Vetch adds nitrogen to the soil and controls weeds and erosion.

Another commonly used hardy cover crop is rapeseed, which in addition to controlling weeds and erosion, also controls harmful nematodes.

Growing Cover Crops in Zone 7 Gardens

Below are common cover crops for zone 7 and the seasons in which they are effectively used. Fall and Winter Cover Crops

• Alfalfa
• Oats
• Barley
• Field Peas
• Buckwheat
• Winter Rye
• Winter Wheat
• Crimson Clover
• Hairy Vetch
• Winter Peas
• Subterranean Clover
• Rapeseed
• Black Medic
• White Clover

Spring Cover Crops

• Red Clover
• Sweet Clover
• Spring Oats
• Rapeseed

Summer Cover Crops

• Cowpeas
• Buckwheat
• Sudangrass
• Mustards

Cover crop seeds can usually be purchased inexpensively in bulk at local feed stores. They are usually grown for short periods, then cut back and tilled into the earth before they are allowed to go to seed.

Cover crops like sorghum sudangrass are useful in the garden. They can suppress weeds, thrive in drought, and may be utilized as hay and forage. What is sudangrass, though? It is a fast-growing cover crop that has a broad root system and can grow in many areas. This makes the plant excellent at rejuvenating areas that have been overcropped and compacted or low in nutrients. Learn how to grow sudangrass and take advantage of all its many benefits along with its ease of care.

What is Sudangrass?

Sudangrass (Sorghum bicolor) may grow from 4 to 7 feet (1-2 m.) in height and is grown as pasture, green manure, hay, or silage. When it is hybridized with sorghum, the plants are slightly smaller and easier to manage with superior high heat tolerance. In addition, sorghum sudangrass care is minimal, as the seed needs little moisture to germinate, and the seedlings thrive in heat and low water regions. The biggest need for this versatile grass is at least eight to ten weeks of fine weather before harvest. Sorghum sudangrass has been shown to reduce weeds when planted thickly as well as suppress root nematodes. The plant has also been shown to be extremely efficient in water absorption with twice as many roots as corn but less leaf surface, which allows evaporation. It is also grown for its seed, as the grass is a prolific seeder, economically providing the next generation of the crop. Good soil management ensures future crops, prevents erosion, and is part of the ecological wheel of sustainability. Sudangrass cover crops are an essential part of soil management in many areas of North America and are widely used as one of the highest yielding forages too.

How to Grow Sudangrass

The best soil for sudangrass is warm, well-tilled, moist, and clod free. Fertility is not the most important consideration, as this grass requires little nitrogen; however, in heavily used lands, additional nitrogen will enhance its growth. Early seeding is important when growing sorghum sudangrass. Seed in warmer regions can be planted as early as February, but most of us must wait until the soil is evenly warmed to at least 60 degrees F. (16 C.). A general rule of thumb is to seed July through August. The correct timing of planting is important if harvesting the entire plant, such as in the case of sudangrass cover crops. Till young plants under only as older plants create clumps that can be difficult to break down. Crops that are mowed for hay can be cut at 4 to 7 inches (10-18 cm.) to allow for recovery and another harvest.

Management of Sorghum Sudangrass

This grass is one of the easier varieties to manage. Early mowing is crucial to sorghum sudangrass care that is being used as forage since older leaves have lower protein content and become fibrous, thus harder to digest. The plant must be harvested at the vegetative stage, as it contains as much protein as mature alfalfa and can be harvested at least one more time, producing more usable products. Mow when plants are 20 to 30 inches (51-76 cm.) tall, leaving 6 inches (15 cm.) of stubble. Once late summer approaches, the entire plants should be tilled under to decompose, and a suitable winter crop sown. Sudangrass is useful as a summer cover crop where a long midsummer period is available.

Cover crops are planted to minimize soil erosion, increase beneficial microbiological activity, and generally improve soil tilth. Considering growing a cover crop? There are many to choose from, but winter rye is a standout. What is winter rye grass? Read on to learn more about growing winter rye grass as a cover crop.

What is Winter Rye Grass?

Winter rye is the most winter hardy of all the cereal grains. It tolerates temperatures down to -30 degrees F. (-34 C.) once established. It can germinate and grow in temps as low as 33 degrees F. (.5 C.). Winter rye should not be confused with ryegrass. Ryegrass is used for lawns, pasture, and hay for livestock, while winter rye is used as a cover crop, forage crop, or as a grain that is used to make flour, beer, some whiskey and vodkas, or can be eaten whole as boiled rye berries or rolled like rolled oats. Winter rye is closely related to barley and wheat, and is a member of the wheat family, Triticeae.

Why Should I Plant Winter Rye Grass?

Growing winter rye grass as a cover crop is an excellent choice. It’s inexpensive, readily available, easy to sow and grow, and easy to till under. It produces more dry matter in the spring than other cereal grains and its extended, deep roots have a beneficial effect on tilth. The prolific root system also enables winter rye to withstand drought better than other cereal grains. Winter rye cover crops also grow in low fertility soil better than other grains.

How to Grow Winter Rye Cover Crops

As mentioned, growing winter rye grass as a cover crop is quite simple. It thrives in well-draining loamy soil but is also tolerant of heavy clay or sandy soil. The preferred pH for growing winter rye is 5.0 to 7.0, but it is unfussy and will grow in the range of 4.5 to 8.0. Winter rye cover crops are sown in the late fall near the first light frost. To assure a good amount of groundcover to protect against winter soil erosion, a high seeding rate is used. Rake the garden smooth and broadcast 2 pounds (1 kg.) of seed per 1,000 square feet (100 sq. m.). Rake lightly to cover the seed and then water. Do not sow rye more than 2 inches (5 cm.) deep. Rye rarely needs any additional fertilizer, as it uptakes nitrogen in residual soil when it follows other crops that have been fertilized with nitrogen. As winter wanes and days lengthen, rye’s vegetative growth stops, and flowering is induced. If allowed to flower, rye can be slow to decompose. Therefore, it is better to cut it back and till it into the soil when it is between 6 and 12 inches (15-31 cm.) tall.

Gardeners plant cover crops to improve the soil by bulking it up with organic matter along with preventing erosion, suppressing weeds, and boosting microorganisms. There are many different cover crops, but we’re going to focus on canola as a cover crop. While commercial farmers are more likely to plant winter cover crops with canola, planting canola cover crops for home gardeners can be quite beneficial. So what is canola and how can canola be used as a cover crop?

What is Canola?

You’ve probably heard of canola oil but did you ever stop to think about where it comes from? Canola oil does indeed come from a plant, which contains about 44% oil. Canola is derived from rapeseed. In the 60’s, Canadian scientists bred out the undesirable traits of rapeseed to create canola, a contraction of “Canadian” and “ola.” Today, we know it as the oil with the least saturated fat of all the culinary oils. Canola plants grow from 3-5 feet (1 to 1.5 m.) in height and produce tiny brownish-black seeds that are crushed to release their oils. Canola also blossoms with a profusion of small, yellow flowers that brighten up the garden at a time when few plants are in bloom. Canola is in the same family as broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, and mustard. It is used all over the world but primarily grown in Canada and Australia. Here in the United States, canola is commonly grown outside of the Midwest. On commercial farms, winter cover crops of canola seeded in early September produce the most growth and ground cover and amass the most nitrogen in the aboveground biomass and may be combined with other cover crops such as lentils. Canola, a broadleaf plant, does a better job than wheat in protecting the soil from erosion since the leaves die off during the winter but the crown stays alive in a dormant state.

Canola Cover Crops for Home Gardens

Canola is available in both winter and spring varieties. Spring canola is planted in March and winter canola is planted in the fall and over winters. As with most other crops, canola does best in well-drained, fertile, silt loam soil. Canola can be planted either in a tilled garden or no-till. A finely prepared, tilled seedbed allows for a more uniform seeding depth than a no-till bed and can also help incorporate fertilizer into the roots of the plant. That said, if you are planting canola cover crops when there has been little rainfall and the soil is dry, no-till may be the better way to go, as this will help retain seed moisture.

One of the major problems with commercial farming is surface erosion, which causes environmental sediment pollution. A solution to this problem is to plant cover crops. There are many advantages to cover cropping but are there cons to cover crop planting? What are some disadvantages of cover crops?

Cover Crop Advantages and Disadvantages

As mentioned above, there are both cover crop advantages and disadvantages. More often, the advantages outweigh the disadvantages, hence more farmers and home gardeners alike are turning to the use of cover cropping. First of all, the planting of dense cover crop stands slows down the velocity of rainfall, which prevents erosive runoff. Also, their interwoven root systems help anchor the soil and increase porosity, creating a welcoming habitat for soil macrofauna. This leads to increased soil fertility. Cover crops or green manure are often of the legume variety since legumes are high in nitrogen, which is a necessary nutrient for crop production. However, other cover crops may be grown and are chosen for the specific needs and goals of the farmer/gardener along with weighing biological, environmental, social, cultural, and economic factors. The benefits of cover crops are well documented. They improve sustainability, reduce soil erosion, and nutrient leaching, suppress weeds, and protect water quality by lessening the loss of nutrients, pesticides, and sediment. So, what are some disadvantages of cover crops?

Cons to Cover Crop Planting

A cover crop disadvantage for commercial farmers is the cost. The crop must be planted at a time when labor, as well as time, is limited. Also, there is the additional cost of planting the cover crop and then tilling it back under which means more labor. Additionally, cover crops may reduce or increase the soil’s moisture effects based on weather conditions or management practices. Furthermore, cover crops may be difficult to include with tillage. Occasionally, cover crops increase insect pests and disease. Sometimes, they may foster allelopathic consequences-- harmful effects from the release of biochemicals onto successive crops. Both the advantages and disadvantages should be carefully researched and considered before choosing to plant cover crops. For sure, cover cropping works for sustainable crop production and is an environmentally healthy management technique that is gaining favor in many agricultural areas.

Think of cover crops as living mulch. The term refers to crops you grow to serve some of the same purposes as mulch: to cover and protect fallow soil from weeds and erosion. Cover crops can be tilled back into the soil to improve its nutrients or organic content. This is useful for fixing clay soil with cover crops. Read on for information about cover crop plants for clay soil.

Using Cover Crops to Improve Clay Soil

Clay soil is problematic for gardeners since it is heavy and doesn’t allow water to drain through easily. Many common garden crops and ornamentals require well-draining soil for the best growth. Clay soil has advantages as well as disadvantages. Unlike sandy soil, it holds whatever water and nutrients come its way, but it is heavily goopy when wet and hard as bricks when dry. The key to working with clay soil is to add organic material to it. One way to do this is to start using cover crops to improve clay soil.

Cover Crop Plants for Clay Soil

Since organic matter will make your clay soil easier to work with and better for your plants, your job is to decide what form of organic matter to use. You can work in 6 inches (15 cm.) of raw materials, like chopped leaves or fresh manure, in autumn and allow the soil microbes to break the material into the humus your plants need. Another option, and perhaps an easier one if you have time and patience, is fixing clay soil with cover crops. You’ll have to plan ahead since you want to plant these in your garden well before you plant your veggies or flowers. Depending on the cover crop you choose, you can till these under before they go to seed. Their bulk will both loosen the clay soil and add extra nitrogen to boost the garden crops later.

Best Cover Crops for Clay Soil

Some of the best cover crops for clay soil are clover, winter wheat, and buckwheat. You can also select crops with deep tap roots, like alfalfa and fava beans, to pull nutrients into the topsoil from the subsoil while, at the same time, breaking up the compact clay. Plant these crops in the fall, after the rains begin so that the soil is softer. Allow them to grow all winter, then till them into the soil in the spring before they seed. For maximum organic content, plant a second cover crop in spring to be tilled under in autumn. A full year of cover crops may be what you need to make your garden happy.

Have you ever heard of sorghum plants? At one time, sorghum was an important crop and served as a sugar substitute for many people. What is sorghum and what other interesting sorghum grass information can we dig up? Let’s find out.

What is Sorghum?

If you grew up in the midwestern or southern United States, you may already be familiar with sorghum plants. Maybe you’ve woken to your grandmother’s hot biscuits slathered with oleo and drenched in sorghum syrup. Okay, more likely a great-great grandmother routinely made biscuits with syrup from sorghum plants since the popularity of sorghum as a sugar substitute peaked in the 1880’s. Sorghum is a coarse, upright grass used for grain and forage. Grain sorghum or broom sorghum is shorter, bred for higher grain yields, and is also called “milo.” This annual grass needs little water and thrives during long, hot summers. Sorghum grass seed has higher protein content than corn and is used as a principal feed ingredient for cattle and poultry. The grains are red and hard when ripe and ready for harvest. They are then dried and stored whole. Sweet sorghum (Sorghum vulgare) is grown for the manufacture of syrup. Sweet sorghum is harvested for the stalks, not the grain, which is then crushed much like sugarcane to produce syrup. The juice from the crushed stalks is then cooked down to a concentrated sugar. There is yet another type of sorghum. Broom corn is closely related to sweet sorghum. From a distance it looks like sweet corn in the field, but it has no cobs, just a large tassel at the top. This tassel is used for, you guessed it, making brooms. Some sorghum varieties only reach about 5 feet (1.5 m.) in height, but many sweet and broom corn plants can grow to over 8 feet (2 m.).

Sorghum Grass Information

Cultivated in Egypt over 4,000 years ago, growing sorghum grass seed ranks as the number two cereal crop in Africa where production exceeds 20 million tons per year, a third of the world total. Sorghum can be ground, cracked, steam flaked, and/or roasted, cooked like rice, made into porridge, baked into breads, popped as corn, and malted for beer. In the United States, sorghum is grown primarily for forage and feed grains. Varieties of grain sorghum include:

• Durra
• Feterita
• Kaffir
• Kaoliang
• Milo or milo maize
• Shallu

Sorghum can also be employed as a cover crop and green manure, substitutes for some industrial processes that generally use corn, and its stems are used as a fuel and weaving material. Very little of the sorghum that is grown in the U.S. is sweet sorghum but, at one time, it was a thriving industry. Sugar was dear during the mid 1800’s, so folks turned to sorghum syrup to sweeten their foods. However, making syrup from sorghum is highly labor intensive and has fallen out of favor in lieu of other crops, such as corn syrup. Sorghum contains iron, calcium, and potassium. Prior to the invention of daily vitamins, doctors prescribed daily doses of sorghum syrup for people suffering from maladies related to deficiencies in these nutrients.

Growing Sorghum Grass

Sorghum thrives in areas of long, warm summers with temps consistently over 90 degrees F. (32 C.). It likes sandy soil and can withstand both flooding and drought better than corn. Planting sorghum grass seed usually occurs in late May or early June when the soil is sure to have warmed sufficiently. Soil is prepared as it is for corn with an added balanced organic fertilizer worked into the bed prior to seeding. Sorghum is self-fertile, so unlike corn, you don’t need a huge plot to aid in pollination. Sow the seeds ½ inch (1 cm.) deep and 4 inches (10 cm.) apart. Thin to 8 inches (20 cm.) apart when seedlings are 4 inches (10 cm.) high. Thereafter, keep the area around the plants weed free. Fertilize six weeks after planting with a high nitrogen liquid fertilizer.

Orchardgrass is native to western and central Europe but was introduced to North America in the late 1700’s as pasture hay and forage. What is orchardgrass? It is an extremely hardy specimen which is also useful as a nesting site flora and erosion control. Wild and domesticated grazing animals find the grass palatable. It has been classed as a restricted noxious weed in Delaware, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia, and West Virginia but is widely grown across the country as part of a careful crop rotation program.

What is Orchardgrass?

Orchardgrass uses span more than erosion, fodder, hay, silage, and natural ground cover. It also enhances the nitrogen in soil when planted deep with abundant water. As manure and biosolids, it returns high levels of this necessary macronutrient to the soil. There are a wide variety of orchardgrass growing conditions suitable for this tolerant plant. Orchardgrass is also known as cocksfoot. It is a cool-season, perennial bunching grass. What does orchardgrass look like? This true grass can grow 19 to 47 inches (48.5 to 119.5 cm.) in height with leaf blades up to 8 inches (20.5 cm.) in length. Leaves are broadly tapered to a point and the base is v-shaped. Sheaths and ligules are smooth and membranous. The inflorescence is a panicle up to 6 inches (15 cm.) long with two to five flowered spikelets in dense side clusters. It germinates early in the season and achieves the bulk of its growth in the cooler season.

Orchardgrass Information

Among the better orchardgrass uses is its ability to add nitrogen to the soil. Crucial to farmers regarding this bit of orchardgrass information is that it enhances the soil and nutrient content of hay even more when combined with legumes or alfalfa. If planted alone, the grass is harvested early in the season, but when combined with legumes, it is harvested when the legume is in late bud to early bloom for the most nutritious hay or silage. Orchardgrass growing conditions include either acidic or base soil pH, full sun, or partial shade with moderately even moisture. It is found in disturbed areas, savannas, woodland borders, orchards, pastures, thickets, and fence rows. Provided site conditions are correct, it is easy to establish and durable. The plant even withstands cold winters to -30 F. (-34 C.) if insulated by snow. Grass planted for erosion control is seeded or drilled in late summer to early autumn but that established for forage is planted in late winter to early spring. This provides the more tender shoots with the highest nutrition available for browsing animals. The time for harvesting the plants depends upon the use. Harvest in early to mid-spring for hay. As tillage, it is turned under in late winter. If the grass is to be grazed, grazing can start in early spring until summer but late-season grazing should be discouraged. Leave some of the plants to form mature seed heads and allow them to reseed for a consistent supply of the plants. With careful management, orchardgrass can perform a host of functions while adding nutrients and tilth to soil.

Timothy hay (Phleum pratense) is a common animal fodder which is found in all states. What is Timothy grass? It is a cool season perennial grass with rapid growth. The plant gets its name from Timothy Hanson, who promoted the grass in the 1700s as a pasture grass. The grass is native to Europe, temperate Asia and North Africa. The plant is adapted to numerous climates and performs well in even cold, northern regions. Timothy grass care is minimal in most regions.

What is Timothy Grass?

The benefits of Timothy grass are numerous. It has broad appeal as hay for and horses, but when combined with alfalfa, it makes nutritious forage for sheep and other grazing animals. It is also made into food for guinea pigs, rabbits and other domesticated pets.

The plant is easily recognized when it blooms by its long narrow seed head. When does Timothy grass bloom? The inflorescence is produced in late spring to early summer or within 50 days of sowing. The plant can be harvested for hay several times during the growing season if planted in early spring.

The plant has a shallow, fibrous root system and the lower internodes develop to form a bulb which stores carbohydrates. The leaf blades are hairless, smooth and pale green. Young blades begin rolled and mature to a flattened leaf with pointed tip and rough edges. Each leaf may be 11 to 17 inches (27.5-43 cm.) long.

Seed heads approach 15 inches (38 cm.) in length and have spiky florets that become tiny seeds. Large perennial stands of Timothy grass growing in fertile lowland fields is a common sight in many states.

Tip on Timothy Grass Growing

Timothy grass is generally sown in spring or summer. It takes 50 days to establish for harvesting in most climates. The best time to plant late crops is six weeks or more prior to the first fall frost, which gives the stand enough time to establish before cold weather.

Sow the seeds in amended soil that has been tilled. Although Timothy grass grows in most soil types, the pH of the soil is important. Ideally, it should be between 6.5 and 7.0. If necessary, perform a soil test and amend soil with lime six months before planting the crop. Seeds should be planted ¼ to ½ inch (0.5-1.25 cm.) deep and lightly covered with soil. Keep the soil moderately moist.

Timothy Grass Care

This grass doesn't do well in areas with excessive heat or in drought conditions. Consistent moisture is a must to develop a good stand. Often, Timothy grass is planted with legumes as nutritious forage for animals. The benefits of Timothy grass in this instance as tillage are increased nitrogen, percolation, drainage, and added nutrients.

When planted with legumes, additional nitrogen fertilizer is not necessary, but stands planted alone benefit from several spaced applications of food. Apply the first time at sowing, again during spring, and after harvesting.

Harvest hay before more than half the plants have formed flowers. Do not harvest down to the basal leaves, which will fuel the next generation of growth. After the first harvest, the plant is ready to be collected again in 30 to 40 days.

Weeds! They’re the most frustrating bane of the gardening experience. Gardeners from Alaska to Florida know the struggle, as these invasive, aggressive plants seem to pop up full grown out of thin air. What’s a gardener to do? Many choose to smother weeds with plastics, cardboard, and straw, but a few realize the power of cover crops for weed control. Farmers have been suppressing weeds with cover crops for decades, so why shouldn’t home gardeners take advantage? Let’s learn more about cover crop weed control.

Cover Crops to Suppress Weeds

Using cover crops isn’t a novel practice, but it hasn’t been common in small gardens until recently. Although inorganic groundcovers have been widely used, this practice can be both messy and unsustainable, not to mention the substantial amount of black plastic gardeners have contributed to landfills. This year, cover crops should be front of mind – not only can they out-compete weeds, but many release chemicals into the soil that actually prevent weed seeds from germinating (a process known as allelopathy). For example, the following plants play double duty in garden areas as both a cover crop and weed suppressor:

• Winter rye can directly destroy pigweed, lambsquarter, purslane, and crabgrass.
• Sunflower and subterranean clover can suppress invasive morning glories.
• Sorghum can prevent purple nutsedge, Bermuda grass, and many small-seeded annuals from taking hold.

Cover crop weed control isn’t without its problems. Sensitive garden plants can also be poisoned or weakened by the chemical attacks of allelopathic crops. Lettuces are particularly susceptible, while large-seeded and transplanted crops are much more tolerant. Some are even stimulated by the presence of cover crop debris that hasn’t broken down yet. Winter grains, for example, can benefit peas, beans, and cucumbers.

How to Control Weeds with Cover Crops

There’s more to using a cover crop than just tossing seeds on the ground and hoping for the best, but once you’ve got your cover crop established, all you’ll have to do is sit back and watch it work. Always select a cover crop that’s seasonally appropriate, as cool season crops won’t work well for you during the summer and vice versa. Most gardeners choose multiple cover crops that work together to help keep the weeds down throughout the year. Start with a good, weed-free bed. It sounds simple, but that’s the hardest part. Remove any living weeds, rhizomes, and other weed root parts you might find in the soil. The cleaner the soil, the better job your cover crop will do to prevent unwanted growth. Once the bed is as clean as possible, sow your seeds according to package directions, then water, feed, and lime as needed. When growing a cover crop, you need to watch carefully for blooms. The last thing you need is the cover crop self-seeding and becoming a weed itself. So, for the sake of your sanity and your garden, be prepared to till under or mow down your cover crop the moment you notice seed formation beginning. Allowing it to grow as long as possible will give you all the benefits of weed control and green manures combined.

Got chickens? Then you know that whether they are in an enclosed pen, a well-layered landscape, or in an open environment (free-range) such as a pasture, they require protection, shelter, water, and food. There are many options for providing these necessities to your chickens, but an environmentally friendly, sustainable, low impact method is by growing cover crops for chickens. So what are the best cover crops for chickens to eat?

Best Cover Crops for Chickens

There are a number of garden cover crops suitable for chicken feed. Among these are:

• Alfalfa
• Clover
• Annual rye
• Kale
• Cowpeas
• Rabe
• New Zealand clover
• Turnips
• Mustard
• Buckwheat
• Grain grasses

The height of the cover crop is important since chickens, due to their size, forage at a different height than other livestock. Chicken cover crops should be no taller than 3-5 inches (7.5 to 13 cm.) tall. When plants grow over 5 inches (13 cm.) tall, the carbon amount in their leaves increases and are less digestible for chickens. Of course, chickens can over forage an area as well bringing the cover crop down to less than 2 inches (5 cm.), making it difficult to re-grow and replenish. This isn’t always a bad thing, as I discuss below. You can plant just one cover crop for the chickens to eat, create a blend of your own, or purchase poultry pasture seed online. Chickens can be allowed to free-range and may look like they are eating grass (they eat a little) but they are mostly foraging for worms, seeds, and grubs. While that's great, adding in the additional nutrition garnered from foraging on cover crops is even better. Chickens need a diet rich in Omega 3 fatty acids to transfer that source to their eggs, which in turn is good for humans. A combination of grains planted as a cover crop for the chickens to eat broadens the number of nutrients the fowl uptakes and makes for a healthier chicken and, hence, healthier eggs.

Benefits to Growing Cover Crops for Chicken Feed

Of course, growing cover crops for chickens can be harvested, threshed, and stored to feed the chickens, but allowing them to roam and freely forage has distinct advantages. For one thing, you aren’t putting in your labor to harvest and thresh and there is no need to find the space to store the feed. Cover crops such as buckwheat and cowpea are often naturally tilled into the soil while the chickens’ forage, saving you valuable time. It may take a little longer, but avoids the detrimental effects of using fossil fuels and mitigates the damage a power tiller can do to the soil structure. Chickens are a gentler, eco-friendly method to till the crop in. They eat the vegetation, but leave the cover crop roots in place to provide organic matter to microorganisms and increase water retention all while loosening the first top inch (2.5 cm.) or so of the soil. Oh, and the best yet, poop! Allowing the chickens to freely forage for their food among the cover crops also results in the natural fertilization of the field with high nitrogen chicken manure. The resulting soil is nutrient-rich, aerated, well-draining, and, all in all, perfect for planting a successive food crop or another cover crop.

Living mulch provides numerous benefits to the garden and soil. What is living mulch? Any plant that is used to cover an area of soil and adds nutrients, enhances soil porosity, decreases weeds, and prevents soil erosion, among other attributes. Basically, living mulch is a low-growing groundcover that is planted for a variety of reasons. Planting a living mulch cover crop enhances next season's planting area and minimizes a host of open space problems.

Choosing Living Mulch Plants

Companion planting isn't anything new. Generally, we use companion plants to protect other plants from insects, disease, over grazing and to enhance root and fruit development. Living mulch plants provide numerous benefits to their companions in the garden and liven up the soil. The most common types of living mulch for vegetable gardens focus on fixing nitrogen and breaking up soil. Living mulch as a groundcover is used to keep weeds down, conserve moisture, and fill in landscape gaps. The type of plant you use as mulch depends upon what your main purpose for a cover crop must achieve. If you are using living mulch as a groundcover, make sure it's a plant that can take foot traffic. Some good varieties to consider might be wooly thyme or creeping red fescue. Not only are they both attractive as living carpet, but they enhance the soil and thyme helps protect other plants from certain insect pests. Mulches that are going to be used as green manure should be a mixture of both legumes and non-legumes. The nitrogen fixing attributes of legumes pair well with the carbon adding abilities of other crops. Living mulch for vegetable gardens must add considerable amounts of nitrogen to help form strong plants. An eye-appealing option is red clover. You can till it in at the end of its growth cycle for use as a green manure. As a legume, it fixes nitrogen in soil. The roots are excellent at breaking up soil and increasing porosity while also holding topsoil in erosion prone zones. The nitrogen fixing abilities of legume plants is commonly known, but other types of plants contribute in different ways to garden health too. For maximum smothering power to keep weed pests out of your garden, try a combination of legumes and grasses. This is also the best mixture for green manure, since the legume introduces the nitrogen but the grass will increase soil porosity and add carbon when tilled in as dried hay. Some plants or herbs have the ability to repel common vegetable pests and double as a food crop and include:

• Garlic
• Onion
• Basil
• Marigolds

Buckwheat is a common “catch crop” too. It is planted during fallow periods and fixes phosphorus in soil. Some cover crops also function as forage in between other crops. Choose plants with easy palatability and high nutrient content.

Planting a Living Mulch Cover Crop

Living mulches are generally planted after the main crops have been harvested. You can also plant after your main crops are growing but give them five weeks to establish before planting your cover crop. As with any plant, make sure that the area is weed and debris free, soil is loose and well draining and of average fertility. Pick your seeds and broadcast or drill them into soil at the depth the seed packet recommends. Provide even moisture, especially the first few weeks as the crop matures. It is up to you if you want to till the plants into the soil or simply allow them to reach the end of their life cycle, and compost around your food crops. Breakdown will occur more quickly with plants that are tilled into soil. Plants that are used as groundcover can remain as they are for many years of soil retention and weed suppression.

If you're looking for a cover crop for difficult soil, the birdsfoot trefoil plant may be just what you need. This article discusses the pros and cons of using birdsfoot trefoil as a cover crop, as well as basic growing techniques.

What is Birdsfoot Trefoil?

Birdsfoot trefoil (Lotus corniculatus) is a plant with several agricultural uses. At least 25 varieties are available. Buying seeds from a local supplier ensures that you get a good variety for your area. For farmers, birdsfoot trefoil uses include:

• crop for cutting as hay
• livestock forage crop
• cover crop plant

Home gardeners grow birdsfoot trefoil as a cover crop. There are some advantages to growing this uncommon plant instead of traditional cover crops such as alfalfa and clovers. Birdsfoot trefoil plant is a good choice for difficult locations with wet or moderately acidic soil. It tolerates moderate levels of salt in the soil as well. Birdsfoot trefoil also has some clear disadvantages. When the soil is good enough to grow alfalfa or clovers, these crops are better choices. Birdsfoot trefoil seedlings aren't very vigorous, so the crop takes time to become established, and may become overrun with weeds before it takes off.

Growing Birdsfoot Trefoil as Cover Crop

If you've never grown birdsfoot in the location before, you'll need to treat the seeds with an inoculum so that the roots can fix nitrogen. Purchase an inoculum labeled for birdsfoot trefoil and follow the package instructions or use treated seeds. You won't need treated seeds in subsequent years. The best time to plant is in early spring, but you can also plant in late summer if the soil is damp enough. The seedlings need consistently moist soil as they become established. The advantage of planting in late summer is that there won't be as much competition from weeds. Smooth the soil and then firm it up before broadcasting the seeds over the planting area. Firming the soil with a roller as you would when planting grass improves germination by ensuring the seeds come in firm contact with the soil. Make sure the soil stays moist. A light sprinkling of soil over the top of the seeds improves germination. Since it is a legume, birdsfoot trefoil contributes nitrogen to the soil. Although it doesn't need nitrogen fertilizer, it may benefit from the addition of phosphorous. As long as the soil stays moist and the plot doesn't become overrun with weeds, the crop is carefree.

Until fairly recently, many of us only knew of buckwheat from its use in buckwheat pancakes. Today's sophisticated palates now know it for those delicious Asian buckwheat noodles and also realize its superior nutrition as a cereal grain. Buckwheat uses extend to those in gardens where buckwheat can be used as a cover crop. How then, to grow buckwheat in the home garden? Read on to learn more about the growth and care of buckwheat.

Buckwheat Growing

Buckwheat is one of the earliest crops cultivated in Asia, most likely in China 5,000 to 6,000 years ago. It spread throughout Asia to Europe and was then brought to the American colonies in the 1600's. Common on farms in the northeast and north central United States at that time, buckwheat was used as a livestock feed and as a milling flour. Buckwheat is a broadleaf, herbaceous plant that flowers abundantly over the course of several weeks. The small, white blooms rapidly mature into triangular brown seeds about the size of soybean seeds. It is often referred to as a pseudo-cereal since it is utilized in much the same way cereal grains like oats are, but it is not a true cereal due to seed and plant type. The majority of buckwheat growing in the United States occurs in New York, Pennsylvania, Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota, and North Dakota and much of it is exported to Japan.

How to Grow Buckwheat

Buckwheat cultivation is most suited to moist, cool climates. It is sensitive to temperature fluxes and can be killed off by a frost in the spring and fall while high temps affect blooms, and thus, seed formation. This grain will tolerate a wide range of soil types and it has a higher tolerance to soil acidity than other grain crops. For optimal growth, buckwheat should be sown in medium textured soils like sandy loams, loams, and silt loams. High levels of limestone or heavy, wet soils adversely affect buckwheat. Buckwheat will germinate at temps ranging from 45 to 105 degrees F. (7-40 C.). Days to emergence are between three to five days depending upon planting depth, temperature, and moisture. Seeds should be set 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) in narrow rows so a good canopy will be established. Seeds can be set with a grain drill, or if planting for a cover crop, simply broadcast. The grain will grow rapidly and reach a height of 2 to 4 feet (61 cm. to 1 m.). It has a shallow root system and is intolerant of drought, so care of buckwheat entails keeping it moist.

Buckwheat Uses in Gardens

As mentioned, buckwheat crops are used primarily as a food source but they have other uses as well. This grain has been used as a substitute for other grains when feeding livestock. It is generally mixed with corn, oats, or barley. Buckwheat is sometimes planted as a honey crop. It has a long blooming period, available later in the growing season when other nectar sources are no longer viable. Buckwheat is sometimes used as a smother crop because it germinates rapidly and the dense canopy shades the ground and smothers most weeds. Buckwheat is found in many commercial bird foods and is planted to provide food and cover for wildlife. The hulls from this grain have no food value, but they are used in soil mulch, poultry litter, and in Japan for stuffing pillows. Lastly, buckwheat uses in gardens extend to cover crops and green manure crops. Both are much the same. A crop, in this case, buckwheat is planted to prevent soil erosion, aid in water retention, squelch weed growth, and enrich the soil composition. A green manure is tilled under while the plant is still green and begins its decomposition process at that time. Using buckwheat as a cover crop is an excellent choice. It won't overwinter, making it easier to work with in the spring. It grows rapidly and creates a canopy that will smother weeds. When plowed under, the decaying matter significantly raises the nitrogen content for successive crops and also improves the moisture holding capacity of the soil.

Growing hairy vetch in gardens provides a number of benefits to home gardeners; vetch and other cover crops prevent runoff and erosion and add organic matter and important nutrients to the soil. Cover crops such as hairy vetch also attract beneficial insects to the garden.

What is Hairy Vetch?

A type of legume, hairy vetch (Vicia villosa) is a cold-hardy plant belonging to the same plant family as beans and peas. The plant is sometimes planted in spring, especially in agricultural applications. In the garden, hairy vetch cover crops are usually grown through the winter and plowed into the soil before spring planting.

Hairy Vetch Benefits

Hairy vetch absorbs nitrogen from the air as it grows. Nitrogen, a critical nutrient required for plant growth, is often depleted by repeated cultivation, poor soil management and use of synthetic fertilizers and herbicides. When a hairy vetch cover crop is plowed into the soil, significant amounts of nitrogen are restored. Additionally, the plant's roots anchor the soil, reducing runoff and preventing soil erosion. An added benefit is the plant's ability to suppress early growth of weeds. When the plant is plowed into the ground in spring, it improves soil structure, promotes drainage and increases the soil's ability to retain nutrients and moisture. For this reason, hairy vetch and other cover crops are often known as “green manure.”

Hairy Vetch Planting

Growing hairy vetch in gardens is easy enough. Plant hairy vetch in late summer or autumn at least 30 days before the first average frost date in your area. It's important to provide time for the roots to establish before the ground freezes in winter. To plant hairy vetch, plow the soil as you would for any regular crop. Broadcast the seed over the soil at the rate recommended on the seed package - usually 1 to 2 pounds of seed for every 1,000 square feet of garden space. Cover the seeds with about ½ inch of soil, then water well. The plant will grow vigorously throughout the winter. Mow the hairy vetch before the plant flowers in spring. Although the purple blooms are beautiful, the plant may become weedy if it is allowed to go to seed.

A healthy vegetable garden requires nutrient rich soil. Many gardeners add compost, manure and other organic materials to enrich the soil, but another method is by planting veggie garden cover crops. So what is it and why is cover cropping for increased vegetable production a good idea?

What are Cover Crops in the Garden?

The organic matter we use to amend our soils provides food for earthworms, bacteria, fungi, nematodes and others that live in the soil and in turn make it fertile. Planting cover crops for vegetable gardens is just another method of infusing organic matter into the garden to facilitate healthier growth and production.

Cover crops in the garden improve the soil's physical structure and fertility. Growing cover crops for vegetable gardens also halts soil erosion, reduces weed problems, aids in water retention and provides cover for beneficial insects. Once the cover crop has been worked back into the soil, it provides nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium as well as other micronutrients.

Cover crops used to attract beneficial insects to aid in controlling insect pests are called “trap crops.” Cover cropping for vegetable production is also sometimes called green manure, which is simply in reference to the type of plant used in the cover cropping. Green manure refers to plants used for cover cropping that are in the pea (legume) family. Pea family green manures are special in that they enrich the soil's nitrogen levels as a result of the presence of bacteria (Rhizobium spp.) in their root systems which convert nitrogen gas from the air into nitrogen usable to the plant. Pea seed should be treated with a bacterium, available from the garden center, prior to planting it as a cover crop, as the bacterium may not naturally reside in your soil. If your soil is in need of nitrogen, use Austrian peas or the like as a cover crop.

Plant grass crops such as winter wheat, grain rye or oats to scavenge leftover nutrients from the veggie garden and then recycle them by plowing it in the spring. Depending upon your soil needs, you may even plant a combination of green manure and grass as a cover crop.

Types of Cover Crops for Vegetable Gardens

Along with green manure types of cover crops, there are a large variety of choices for the home gardener. The timing for planting cover crops varies as well, with some types sown in late summer and others late fall. Cover crops may be planted right after harvest, in lieu of a veggie crop or in an area that is fallow. Cover crops planted in the spring or summer are called “warm season” and include buckwheat. These warm-season crops grow rapidly, thus foiling weed growth while protecting bare soil from crusting and water erosion. Cover crops planted in late summer to early fall after veggie harvest are referred to as cool season cover crops. They are planted early enough to mature before winter sets in.

Some types of plants will overwinter and begin growth again in the spring, while others will die back in the winter months. If you want to plant early crops in the spring, like radishes, peas and spring greens, plants that die back over the winter, such as oats, are a good choice. If, however, you plant a cover crop such as rye, which will begin growth again in the spring, it will need to be tilled under prior to planting the vegetable garden. This is a great choice for areas of the garden in which you want to plant tomatoes, peppers, and squash.

Mow the cover crop before it goes to seed and then till under and allow the soil to lie fallow for three to six weeks prior to planting.

How to Plant Cover Crops

Once you've chosen the type of cover crop you wish to sow, it's time to prepare the garden. Immediately after harvesting vegetables, remove all plant debris and till the garden up to a depth of 6 inches (15 cm.).

Amend the soil with compost or well-rotted manure at the rate of 20 pounds (9 kg.) per 100 square feet (9.3 square m.) or add a 15-15-15 fertilizer at the rate of 1 pound (454 g.) per 100 square feet (9.3 square m.).

Rake out any large stones and moisten the soil. Large seeded cover crops like peas, hairy vetch, wheat, oats, and grain rye should be broadcast at the rate of ¼ pounds (114 g.) per 100 square feet (9.3 square m.). Smaller seeds such as buckwheat, mustard and ryegrass should be broadcast at the rate of 1/6 pound (76 g.) to each 100 square feet (9.3 square m.) and then lightly covered with soil.

As long as man has been dabbling in agriculture, rotating cover crops has been recognized as an important part of the process. Why rotate cover crops? It promotes better soil texture and drainage, nutrient content, and reduces pest and disease issues. Cover crop rotation is specific to the types of crops you are growing and the individual needs of the soil.

Why Rotate Cover Crops?

Cover crops impart their nutrients when tilled into the soil. Their root systems can loosen the earth and reduce compaction. Some plants, such as clover and legumes, fix nitrogen in the soil which has been leached by heavy crops and irrigation. The rule, “right plant, right place” is very true with cover crops. Their individual attributes can enhance future crops through their soil contributions. Almost any of the suggested cover crops will prove to enrich the soil but knowing how to rotate cover crop plants will create an even more effective biodiversity and tilth in soil. The addition of the organic matter is unmatched for increasing the structure of soil and support future crops. Planting a cover crop after every harvest will ensure there is plenty of organic matter for the next harvested crop. It's also a great way to keep down on weeds. Certain cover crops improve certain soil conditions. Knowing which ones provide which benefit can help you as you rotate in cover crops for soil health.

How to Rotate Cover Crop Plants

In a perfect world, every field and garden would have a year or two to lay fallow and replenish itself. Intercropping, crop rotation, cover crops, and green manure are ways to manage the changes that constant planting can cause in soil. Rotation of cover crops is useful to introduce different aspects and benefits to soil. Soils heavily depleted of nitrogen benefit from legumes. Traditionally, they follow spring crops or are planted just before a fall crop. Those that need increased organic matter for percolation and tilth will need ryegrass, sorghum Sudan grass, alfalfa, or even buckwheat. Hairy vetch provides quickly accessed nitrogen due to its rapid growth and quick decomposition and also adds texture to winter hardened soil. Cover crops are planted after a heavy feeding crop has been harvested. Heavy feeders might include tomatoes, corn, and potatoes.

Examples of Cover Crop Rotation

As long as you plant a variety of cover crops and practice crop rotation, your garden should be bountiful. The rule of thumb on general crop rotation is to separate plants in the same family by two years. For example, you cannot plant potatoes in one spot and then the next season plant tomatoes because it can invite diseases that affect those in the nightshade family. Rotating cover crops into the planting season is done with the time of maturity of the crop in mind. It makes no sense to use hairy vetch, which is mature in spring, as a fall cover crop. Grains and grasses make excellent fall crops because they need longer to come to maturity. Spring plants like the hairy vetch will be available for summer crop nutrition needs, while the overwintered cover crops are available for early spring plants. Rotating cover crops into successively planted gardens is easy if you choose a short season item. Once spring lettuces are gone, sow some quick red clover and till it in before starting some fall veggies. Rotation of cover crops into the overall season planting agenda simply means taking a break for a little while to grow food for the soil.

Cover crops serve a number of functions in the garden. They add organic matter, improve the soil's texture and structure, improve the fertility, help prevent erosion and attract pollinating insects. Find out about cover crop planting times in this article.

Cover Crop Planting Times

Gardeners have two options when planting cover crops. They can plant them in the fall and let them grow over winter, or they can plant them in early spring and let them grow during spring and summer. Most gardeners plant cover crops in fall and let them mature over winter - a time when they aren't usually growing vegetables. This cover crop planting guide tells you the best time for planting different types of cover crops. Choose a legume (bean or pea) if you want to improve the nitrogen content of the soil. Grains are a better choice for suppressing weeds and increasing the organic content of the soil.

Cover Crops for Fall Planting

• Field peas are hardy to 10 to 20 F. (-12 to -6 C). 'Mangus,' which grows 5 feet (1.5 m.) tall, and 'Australian Winter,' which grows about 6 inches (15 cm.) tall, are both good choices.
• Fava beans grow up to 8 feet (2.4 m.) tall and tolerate winter temperatures to -15 F. (-26 C).
• Clovers are legumes, so they also add nitrogen to the soil as they grow. Crimson clover and Berseem clover are good choices. They grow about 18 inches (45 cm.) tall and tolerate winter temperatures between 10 and 20 F (-12 and -7 C). Dutch clover is a low-growing variety that tolerates temperatures as low as -20 F. (-28 C).
• Oats don't produce as much organic matter as other grains, but tolerates wet soil. It is good for temperatures down to 15 F. (-9 C)
• Barley tolerates temperatures down to 0 F/-17 C. It tolerates salty or dry soil, but not acidic soil.
• Annual ryegrass absorbs excess nitrogen from the soil. It tolerates temperatures to -20 F (-29 C).

Cover Crops to Plant in Late Winter or Early Spring

• Cowpeas need to remain in the garden 60 to 90 days to produce the maximum amount of nitrogen and organic matter. The plants tolerate dry conditions.
• Soybeans add nitrogen to the soil and compete well with summer weeds. Look for late maturing varieties to get the maximum nitrogen production and organic matter.
• Buckwheat matures quickly, and you can grow it to maturity between your spring and fall vegetables. It decomposes quickly when tilled into the garden soil.

Cover Crop Planting Dates

September is a good time to plant fall cover crops that will remain in the garden over the winter, although you can plant them later in mild climates. If you want to grow cover crops in spring and summer, you can plant them anytime after the soil warms enough to work and up until midsummer. In hot climates, choose the earliest possible planting time for the species. You should go beyond the general guidelines about when to plant cover crops to determine the cover crop planting dates. Consider the temperature requirements of the individual crops, as well as the planting date of the plants you intend to grow after the cover crop.

The name may be misleading, but green manure has absolutely nothing to do with poop. However, when used in the garden, cover crops and green manure provides a number of benefits to the growing environment. Read on to learn more about using cover crops vs. green manure.

What are Cover Crops?

Cover crops are plants grown strictly to improve soil fertility and structure. Cover crops also provide insulation that keeps the soil cool in summer and warm in winter.

What are Green Manures?

Green manure is created when fresh cover crops are incorporated into the soil. Like cover crops, green manure increases the level of nutrients and organic matter in the soil.

Cover Crops vs. Green Manure

So what's the difference between green manure and cover crops? Although the terms “cover crop” and “green manure” are often used interchangeably, the two are actually different, but related, concepts. The difference between green manure and cover crops is that cover crops are the actual plants, while green manure is created when the green plants are plowed into the soil. Cover crops are sometimes known as “green manure crops.” They are planted to improve soil structure, suppress growth of weeds and protect the soil from erosion caused by wind and water. Cover crops also attract beneficial insects to the garden, thus reducing the need for chemical pesticides. Green manure provides similar benefits. Like cover crops, green manure improves soil structure and releases important nutrients back to the soil. Additionally, the organic matter provides a healthy environment for earthworms and beneficial soil organisms.

Growing Cover Crops and Green Manures

Most home gardeners lack space to dedicate an entire growing season to a cover crop. For this reason, cover crops are usually planted in late summer or autumn, and then the green manure is tilled into the soil at least two weeks before the garden is planted in spring. Some plants, which reseed themselves prolifically and become weeds, should be worked into the soil before they go to seed. Plants suitable for planting in the garden include peas or other legumes, which are planted in either spring or early autumn. Legumes are a valued cover crop because they fix nitrogen in the soil. Radishes are a fast-growing cover crop planted in autumn. Oats, winter wheat, hairy vetch and ryegrass are also planted in late summer or early autumn. To plant a cover crop, work the soil with a garden fork or rake, then broadcast the seeds evenly over the surface of the soil. Rake the seeds into the top of the soil to ensure the seeds effectively contact the soil. Water the seeds lightly. Be sure to plant the seeds at least four weeks before the first expected frost date.

North America has been the host for this important prairie plant; prairie clover plants are native to the area and have been vital food and medicinal sources for human and animal inhabitants. Clover plants fix nitrogen in the soil. Purple prairie clover in gardens helps add this crucial macro-nutrient back into the soil. Growing purple prairie clover as a green manure or cover crop helps enrich the soil when it is tilled back into the earth. This plant practically grows itself and its usefulness is of great consequence to the health of your garden and soil condition.

Prairie Clover Information

Purple prairie clover plants (Dalea purpurea) are perennials that produce upright, stiff stems and bloom from May to September. The flowers are bright purple and form as fuzzy cones on the top of the stems. Bees and other pollinators find these blooms irresistible. In their native habitat, clover thrives in sandy to alluvial soils, requiring little moisture after the plants have been exposed to spring rains. Clovers have an extensive branching root system and make excellent erosion control. The roots also fix nitrogen and help increase porosity and tilth when worked back into the soil.

Growing Purple Prairie Clover

Clover flowers are hermaphroditic and have both male and female parts. Clover seeds require stratification to germinate. You can do this yourself by refrigerating the seed for three months and then sowing in spring, or purchase seed that has already been chilled. In nature, the seeds would naturally receive this cold period during the winter and then sprout when temperatures warm and spring rains arrive. Prepare a bed with plenty of compost added and excellent drainage. Remove competitive weeds and rake out any impediments. Seed should be covered by a dusting or 1/16 inch (0.2 cm.) of soil. Moisten the area and keep moderately wet until germination. In 14 to 30 days you'll see sprouts. The plant is useful in prairies, fields, ditches, hillsides, or just in your vegetable bed.

Care of Purple Prairie Clover

Clover is one of the easiest plants to grow provided the soil is well-draining. The pH of the soil doesn't matter but it does require full sun. Provide mulch around the bed to conserve moisture. No pruning is required, but you can mow the plants if you want to produce green manure, then just till in the remaining greenery. You don't need to fertilize purple prairie clover and it only requires additional moisture at the beginning of establishment. Rust is a problem with this clover but you can avoid issues by minimizing overhead watering and irrigating only when the foliage has time to dry off before sunlight hits the leaves.

For those looking for a good cover crop or livestock forage, Bromus prairie grass may be just what you need. Let's learn more about what is prairie grass used for and how to plant prairie grass seed.

What is Prairie Grass?

Prairie bromegrass (Bromus willdenowii) is native to South America and has been in the United States for about 150 years. It's also known as Bromus prairie grass, rescue grass, and matua. Found mainly along roadsides, hay meadows, or in pastures, this grass is a cool-season bunchgrass that matures at about 2 to 3 feet (0.5 to 1 m.) in height. Although this grass is a perennial, it acts as an annual in parts of the southeast United States.

Prairie Grass Identification

This grass appears much like orchardgrass but has densely covered basal leaf sheaths with light hairs and a shorter ligule. The leaves are rolled in the bud and a light green color. Prairie grass seed heads are produced all through the growing season.

What is Prairie Grass Used For?

The most common use of prairie grass is as a crop extender during cool times of the year, such as early spring and late fall. Because of its dense nutrient composition, it is a nutritious and very cost-effective livestock forage. Cattle, horses, sheep, goats, and various wildlife enjoy munching on this tasty grass, which is often included in pasture mixtures with fescue, Bermuda grass, and orchardgrass.

Growing and Managing Prairie Grass

Prairie grass seed isn't competitive, so it's best planted with other cool-season grasses. It does, however, combine well with alfalfa. Soil should be fertile and medium-coarse for best results. This grass will tolerate drought but not flooding and requires adequate drainage. Prairie grass likes high nitrogen and a soil pH around 6 to 7. Care must be taken not to plant the seed too deeply or there will be germination problems. The best planting times in the southeast are between the middle of August and the end of September.

There are several options for the home gardener when choosing a cover crop, with the goal being to sow a grain or grass that won't reseed itself and can be tilled under to enhance the nutritive value of the soil. Barley (Hordeum vulgare) as a cover crop is an excellent selection.

Winter Barley Cover Crops

Winter barley cover crops are cool season annual cereal grains, which when planted, provide erosion control, weed suppression, add organic matter, and act as a topsoil protectant crop during times of drought.

Other information about winter barley cover crops indicates its low price point and ease of growth, as well as its large area of growth tolerance. Winter barley cover crops prefer cool, dry growing regions and are hardy to USDA growing zone 8 or warmer.

Planted in the spring, home garden barley has a short growth period and, as such, can be planted farther north than other grains. Growing barley also produces a greater biomass in a shorter time frame than other cereals.

How to Grow Barley as a Cover Crop

So, how to grow barley in the home garden? Barley as a cover crop in the home garden is an excellent choice as it is drought tolerant and can be grown in many different soil mediums. Home garden barley thrives in well drained loams and light clay to heavy soil, however, it won't do well in waterlogged areas. Growing barley in salt laden soil also works well, in fact, it is the most tolerant of alkaline soils of any cereal grain.

There are many varieties of barley cover crops, so select one that works in your region. Many types are specifically adapted to high altitudes and a cold, short season of growth.

Prepare a seedbed by raking and hoeing ¾ to 2 inch (2-5 cm.) furrows in the garden. Broadcast whichever barley crop is best suited to your locale, sowing the first half of seeds in one direction then the other half perpendicularly. This method of sowing will give home garden barley the best coverage.

For a winter barley cover crop, sow seed from September through February in Zone 8 or warmer. Planting barley cover crops generally works best when seeded before November 1st.

Growing barley does not self reseed very well, which is an advantageous trait for a cover crop. To postpone flowering and, therefore, reduce any chance of reseeding, home garden barley may be mowed.

Why Choose Growing Barley as a Cover Crop?

Growing barley as a cover crop will provide excellent green manure, which improves soil structure, suppresses weed growth, attracts beneficial insects, and increases organic matter. Barley cover crops have deep fibrous roots, sometimes 6 feet (2 m.) deep, which will take up and store excess nitrogen, are heat and drought tolerant, and all at a reasonable cost.

Overwintering with winter barley cover crops is an excellent option for protecting and enhancing garden soils until the spring planting season.

Annual ryegrass (Lolium multiflorum), also called Italian ryegrass, is a valuable cover crop. Planting annual ryegrass as a cover crop allows the dense roots to catch excess nitrogen and help break up hard soils. Ryegrass cover crops are fast growing in cool seasons. Know when to plant annual ryegrass to prevent unwanted seeding and volunteers, which can compete with primary crops.

Quick Facts about Annual Ryegrass

• Botanical name: Lolium multiflorum
• Height: 3 feet
• Spread: spreading
• Sun exposure: sun to part sun
• Soil requirements: any, well draining
• Hardiness zones: 5-9
• When to plant: early spring

What Should Annual Ryegrass Be Used For?

What is ryegrass? Annual ryegrass seed is often found in commercial cover crop mixtures. This member of the grass family is native to southern Europe, Asia, and northwest Africa. It now occurs in many temperate to tropical countries, where it has had occasion to become weedy. Another name for the grass is Italian ryegrass. The grass grows 3 feet (0.9 m) in height, with flat, hairless leaf blades rolled at the base.

Annual ryegrass can also be used to stabilize a new lawn as perennial grass establishes, and as silage or animal feed.

This versatile plant is easy to grow and promotes healthy soil and plants.

Ryegrass as a cover crop

The main use of annual ryegrass is as a cover crop. There are many benefits to planting ryegrass cover crops. It provides erosion control, increases percolation, reduces compaction, and acts as a nurse crop for fall legumes.

But it goes beyond soil improvement. The plant is also useful to reduce splashing on young plants and minimize disease in tightly planted spaces. Overseeding the grass into commercial crops works as effective weed control and increases soil fertility when hoed into the earth.

Ryegrass as turf

Annual ryegrass may be used as a turf in some situations. As an annual, cool season grass it produces a cover crop for warm season grasses. The grass is shade and cold tolerant, and abides low mowing. It is also quick to germinate and establish. It is used in combination with other species like tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass. Annual ryegrass will provide cover in shady locations where warm season grasses will not persist.

Ryegrass as forage

Ryegrass provides 12-25% protein. This is a rich source of the nutrient for both livestock and wild animals. Deer, cattle, and sheep forage on the grass.

However, it is also a host to a fungus called Neotyphodium lolii. When animals ingest the top parts of the plant they consume a powerful alkaloid. This produces disease such as ryegrass staggers. The fungus is primarily present in late summer and early fall.

When to Plant Annual Ryegrass

Seeds in the ground will begin to emerge in March to May, but August through October is generally when to plant annual ryegrass. It can also be sown in February in well tilled soil in warm regions. It is best to sow annual ryegrass with other grasses for complete nutrition as forage, and thickest establishment in cover crop situations.

The plant will set seed more quickly if sown in fall, so care must be taken to mow before the plant blooms. To use the plant as a winter annual, seed during fall in USDA growing zone 6 or warmer. In zone 5 or colder, seed in midsummer to early fall.

If the ryegrass is used as amendment for fall crops, then seed in early spring. For a nursery crop, sow several weeks before seeding the main crop.

Ryegrass cover crops sown in fall are tilled in early in spring to enrich the soil.

Tips for Planting Annual Ryegrass

Annual ryegrass may be found in open fields, roadsides, orchards, and many other open sites. It is of some concern as an invasive plant, but is usually replaced by native plants.

Ryegrass germinates in warm or cool soils. You should till the soil and rake it free of debris and rocks. Make sure there are no clods and the soil.

Plant annual ryegrass in full to partial sun, where soil drains well. It is tolerant of almost all soil types and a range of pH. Remove weeds, rocks and other impediments to germination, which will occur in 3-5 days. Annual ryegrass can be top sown or lightly covered with soil.

Broadcast the seeds at a rate of 20 pounds (9 kg) per acre. You can also mix ryegrass seeds with legumes. Keep the area moist until germination occurs, then give it one inch of water (2.5 cm) per week.

There’s no need for annual ryegrass care in winter. The grass isn’t actively growing, and in most zones a covering of snow will cocoon and protect the plant. When temperatures warm up, the grass will begin to grow anew.

Annual Ryegrass Care in Spring

Annual ryegrass is a cool season grass. Its peak growth occurs in spring and fall. Like any grass, the plant will benefit from an application of a high nitrogen food. During spring, the grass seeds prolifically, which can lead to the plant growing in areas that are not desired.

In spring, it is best to mow consistently for best appearance, and to remove the seed heads. The ryegrass is tolerant of low mowing and heavy foot traffic. The optimum mowing height is 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm). The plant will re-seed itself in zones above 5.

For heavily grazed areas, broadcast successive sowings spaced two weeks apart. If you accidentally let ryegrass cover crops go to seed, use a recommended specific herbicide. Your county extension service can refer you to the appropriate formulation and method of application.

Maintaining Annual Ryegrass

Outside of consistent watering and at least one fertilizing, annual ryegrass is extremely stoic. It does attract several pests such as chinch bugs, grubs, and beetles, which may require the use of an insecticide.

It has few disease issues, but rust may become a problem. There are rust resistant varieties that will reduce the chance of the fungus appearing in your crop.

Water deeply but infrequently to establish deeper roots.

Is Annual Ryegrass a Weed?

Italian ryegrass has the potential to become weedy. It colonizes quickly and thickly, and has the ability to become invasive in temperate climates. This is because of the prolific seed heads. Annual ryegrass will hybridize with perennial ryegrass. This new strain can outcompete some native grasses. In most cases, the grass is not invasive because it dies out when temperatures reach 80 F (27 C).

Winter wheat, otherwise known as Triticum aestivum, is a member of the Paceae family. It is usually planted in the Great Plains region as a cash grain but is also an excellent green manure cover crop. Native to southwest Asia, winter wheat planting was first introduced by Russian Mennonites during the 19th century. This hardy annual cereal grain provides a host of benefits to compacted and overused soil. Learn how to grow winter wheat to improve soil conditions, repair exposed areas, and minimize erosion.

Benefits of Winter Wheat Cover Crops

Winter wheat cover crops are designed to lessen erosion from runoff of water and wind and to retain the soil. They also contribute to the reduction of mineral leaching and compaction, suppress the amount of weed growth, reduce insect pests and diseases, and increase crop yield. Commonly used on commercial farms, cover crops can also be beneficial to the home garden where soil structure tends to become damaged due to weeding, tilling, harvesting, and general foot traffic. Knowing when to plant winter wheat will provide roots that aerate soil and increase water absorption and retention. Once tilled, the plant adds organic matter to buoy the soil composition of the home garden.

Growing Winter Wheat at Home

Winter wheat is less likely to become a weed and is easier to get rid of than barley or rye. Winter wheat matures more slowly than some cereals, so there's no rush to kill it off in early spring, and thereby, risk compaction of the soil during the wet season. Winter wheat grasses are also easier to grow as they germinate and establish much more quickly than cover crops such as clover. Cheaper and easier to manage than rye, winter wheat's popularity as a cover crop is exponentially growing. The grass is not an ornamental species and is best suited for large beds and open grassland.

When to Grow Winter Wheat

The best time for winter wheat planting is from mid September through early December. Plant this hardy annual cereal grain from seeds, which are available at farm suppliers, online, and some garden centers. Broadcast seeds over a prepared seedbed when growing winter wheat at home. Keep the bed moist until germination and remove competitive weeds. Common varieties of winter wheat to consider planting as cover crops are Hard Red, Soft Red, Durum, Soft White, and Hard White.

How to Grow Winter Wheat

To plant winter wheat as a cover crop, rake the garden smooth, removing debris and large rocks. Direct seed winter wheat in dry soil, in rows of 6 to 14 inch (15-36 cm.) widths and 2 inches (5 cm.) deep or simply broadcast seeds, lightly rake in and water winter wheat with a garden hose set on mist. A couple of cold weeks will induce winter wheat to flower and thereafter become dormant until the spring when it can then be tilled into the garden soil.

Beans and peas are two of our most common vegetables and provide an important source of vitamins and protein. They are classified, along with many other plants, as legumes. What is a legume? There are many types of legumes, most of which produce a pod that splits evenly in half. Legume cover crops are important nitrogen-fixing plants for soil health. This important legume info is crucial to gardeners and farmers where over planting depletes soil nutrients.

What is a Legume?

The family of legumes is Leguminosae. Legumes are found in most areas of the world and are fast growing and inexpensive food crops. Domesticated legume crops have been in human cultivation for more than 5,000 years. Legumes encompass a wide range of edible nuts and vegetables. There are also legume plants that are not edible but have many of the same benefits for soil health. Legume pods easily break into two equal hemispheres, but not all legumes produce pods. Some, such as clover and alfalfa, are edible forage for cattle and other herbivores.

Legume Info

Legume pods are high in protein and have a low glycemic index. They substitute for animal fats in vegetarian diets and have low fat properties. Legumes are also a rich source of fiber. As a result, both pod and forage legumes have been in human cultivation for centuries. Farmers have long known that legume plants improve soil conditions. The range of legume plant forms includes vine types to creeping groundcovers. All legumes are flowering and most have a flower that produces a thickened petal or keel that is formed by two petals that fuse together.

Legume Cover Crops

Beans and peas are not the only legumes. Legume cover crops may be alfalfa, red clover, fava, vetch, or cowpeas. They store nitrogen in nodules on the roots. The plant harvests nitrogen gas from the air and combines it with hydrogen. The process creates ammonia, which is converted by bacteria into nitrates, a usable form of nitrogen. Once the plants are tilled into the soil, they release the nitrogen into the earth as they compost. This improves the soil and provides supplemental nitrogen that was removed by other plant's growth. Legume cover crops are valuable for the home gardener as well as the farmer. They also help prevent soil erosion and provide food for wildlife.

Types of Legumes

The most popular legume plants are peas and beans. Pole or bush beans provide long slender pods, while peas may be shell or edible pods. Stringless varieties of beans are easier to eat and snow or sugar peas have such soft shells that the entire pea is delicious eaten whole. Some beans are meant to be shelled and the small ovaries inside dried. These are kidney, cranberry, and black beans, among others. Outside of these popular legume plants, there are also other types of legumes. There are 18,000 species of plants in the family. The tipu tree, Moreton Bay chestnut, Acacia, and Albizia are all forms of legumes from around the globe. Even the common peanut is a member of the legume family.

The use of green manure cover crops is a popular practice among many growers in the farming and agricultural industries. This method of organic fertilizing has numerous benefits for the home gardener as well.

What is Green Manure?

Green manure is a term used to describe specific plant or crop varieties that are grown and turned into the soil to improve its overall quality. A green manure crop can be cut and then plowed into the soil or simply left in the ground for an extended period prior to tilling garden areas. Examples of green manure crops include grass mixtures and legume plants. Some of the most commonly used are:

• Annual ryegrass
• Vetch
• Clover
• Peas
• Winter wheat
• Alfalfa

Green Manure Crop Benefits

The growing and turning of green manure cover crops provides additional nutrients and organic matter to the soil. When incorporated into the soil, these plants break down, eventually releasing important nutrients, such as nitrogen, that are necessary for adequate plant growth. It also increases soil drainage and water retention capabilities. In addition to adding nutrients and organic materials to the soil, green manure crops can be grown to scavenge leftover nutrients following the harvest season. This helps prevent leaching, soil erosion, and weed growth.

Making Green Manure

When making green manure cover crops, consider the season, the site, and the specific needs of the soil. For instance, a good green manure crop for fall or winter would be a cool-season grass like winter rye. Heat-loving crops, like beans, are good for spring and summer. For garden areas in need of additional nitrogen, legumes, such as clover, are ideal. Green manure crops should be turned just before flowering. However, it is also acceptable to wait until the crop has died off. Since green manure crops grow quickly, they make an ideal choice for amending soil prior to spring planting. Learning more about green manure crops can provide home gardeners with the tools necessary for acquiring the optimal soil quality. The healthier the soil, the greater gardening success.