Cyclamen mites can be very damaging to flowering plants. They harm cyclamen, African violets, dahlias, geranium, begonias, strawberries, and more. They usually go undetected until damage has been done; darker, streaked, curled, and distorted leaves.

Cyclamen mites are most prevalent in warm, humid environments and cause a lot of harm in greenhouses.

What Do Cyclamen Mites Look Like?

Part of the challenge of cyclamen mite control is the fact that these pests are too small to see without magnification. About a hundredth of a centimeter, the mites are yellowish brown, semi-transparent, and elliptical shaped. They have eight legs. The body is smooth and shiny, and the mite has large mouthparts.

Cyclamen Mite Damage

Without magnification, you can identify cyclamen mites in your plants by the damage they cause. Like other mites, they pierce the plants with their mouthparts and suck cells dry. Cyclamen mites may infest any part of the plant but are often found around buds.

Leaf damage can help you determine if cyclamen mites are to blame for harm to plants. Leaves will be smaller than normal, distorted, and may have irregular folding. The leaves and petioles can also become thicker than usual.

Cyclamen mites may also attack and feed on the fruits of flowering plants. On strawberries, you may see withered flowers and poor berry production. Plants, like peppers, will show russeting and dry, brown net-like patches when the mites feed on the growing or mature fruits.

How to Control Cyclamen Mites

The best way to deal with cyclamen mites is to prevent them. They are often transported on the corms of cyclamen plants. Look for these and other greenhouse-grown plants certified to be pest-free.

Treating cyclamen mites with chemicals is difficult as they have become resistant to many pesticides. Also, the tiny mites and eggs remain protected from sprays in the small folds of leaves and buds.

A better solution, if you see the telltale signs of damage, is to dispose of affected plants. If a plant has minimal damage, you can try to remove the affected parts and immerse the entire plant and its pot in 110 degree F. (43 C.) water for 15 to 30 minutes. There are also a couple of predatory mites on the market that target cyclamen mites.

There are over twenty species of cyclamen plants grown for their flowers, decorative foliage, and low light requirements. Often sold by florists as flowering houseplants, cyclamen can also be grown outdoors as perennials in many climates. While cyclamen are tuberous plants and usually propagated by dividing, Mother Nature provides all plants with natural propagation methods. If you’ve ever wondered “do cyclamen plants produce seed,” continue reading to learn about the interesting nature of cyclamen plant seeds.

Cyclamen Seed Info

As houseplants, cyclamen are either deadheaded too frequently to produce seed or they just don’t survive long enough. By not deadheading all the cyclamen blooms on florist cyclamen, you can allow viable seed to grow for propagation of new plants. After blooms fade, the flower stems will elongate and curl, spiral, or arch down toward the soil. Some describe these curled stems as looking like snakes. At the end of each stem, a round seed capsule will form. Depending on variety, these seed capsules can hold six to twelve seeds. In the wild, cyclamen plant seeds can self-sow profusely. The way the stems curl or arch down toward the soil is nature’s way of easily depositing the seeds on the ground. When the seed capsules are ripe, they split open on the top and release the seeds. These seeds are coated with a sticky, sugary substance that attracts ants, other insects, birds, and small mammals. The small creatures take the seeds, eat the sugary substance, and then generally leave the seeds. This is nature’s way of propagating new plants away from the parent plants and also scratches up or scarifies the seed.

How Can You Get Seeds from a Cyclamen?

If you are propagating indoor cyclamen plants or wish to propagate new garden cyclamen plants in a specific area, you will need to collect the seeds. In garden plants, this can be done by wrapping pieces of nylon pantyhose around the seed heads before they ripen. Another common method of harvesting seeds is placing paper bags over the seed heads, but cyclamen seeds are small, and this method can be hard to do without damaging them. Collecting cyclamen seeds can also be done by removing the seed capsules before they fully ripen and split open. However, if you harvest them too early, the seed may not be viable. Unripened, developing cyclamen plant seed capsules feel hard and firm as you gently squeeze them between your fingers. As they ripen, they will soften and give a little bit when squeezed. Cyclamen plant seed heads also turn orange-brown as they ripen. When collecting cyclamen plant seeds, be sure to do it when the seed heads are tender and beginning to change color. These seed capsules can be taken indoors to dry and fully ripen. Once the seed capsules split open, cyclamen seeds can be easily squeezed out of the seed head by applying light pressure with your fingers at the bottom of the seed capsule.

Although there are more than 20 species of cyclamen, florist’s cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) is the most familiar, typically given as gifts to brighten up the indoor environment during late winter’s gloom. This little charmer is especially popular around Christmas and Valentine’s Day, but what about caring for cyclamen after flowering? If you’ve been wondering how to treat cyclamen after blooming, read on to learn how to do just that!

Keeping Cyclamen After Blooms Fade

What to do with a cyclamen after flowering? Often, florist’s cyclamen is considered a seasonal gift. It can be difficult to get a cyclamen to rebloom, so the plant is frequently discarded after it has lost its beauty. Although keeping cyclamens after blooms fade is a bit of a challenge, it’s definitely possible. Proper light and temperature are the keys to caring for cyclamen after flowering.

How to Treat Cyclamen After Blooming

It’s normal for cyclamen to lose its leaves and go dormant after flowering. The plant requires a period of dormancy during the summer, so the tuberous root has time to re-energize for the coming blooming season. Here are the steps:

• Gradually cut back on watering when the leaves begin to wilt and turn yellow.
• Use scissors to remove all remaining dead and dying foliage.
• Place the tuber in a container with the top half of the tuber sitting above the surface of the soil.
• Put the container in a cool, shady room, away from bright or direct light. Be sure the plant isn’t exposed to frost.
• Withhold water and fertilizer during the dormant period – generally six to eight weeks. Watering during dormancy will rot the tuber.
• As soon as you see new growth, sometime between September and December, move the cyclamen into bright sunlight and water the plant thoroughly.
• Keep the cyclamen in a cool room with daytime temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees F. (16-18 C.), and nighttime temps at about 50 degrees F. (10 C.).
• Feed the plant monthly, using a liquid fertilizer for indoor plants.
• Watch for the cyclamen to rebloom in midwinter, as long as conditions are just right.

Many of us are familiar with cyclamen as a charming florist’s plant that brightens up the indoor environment during the gloomy winter months. What we may not realize, however, is that cyclamen, a cousin to the cheery little primrose, is actually native to the Mediterranean and surrounding areas. In the home garden, cyclamen is often grown in woodland settings, although many types of cyclamen plants thrive in Alpine meadows. The typical florist cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) is only one of many cyclamen plant types. In fact, there are more than 20 species within the genus. Read on for a small sampling of cyclamen plant types and cyclamen varieties.

Cyclamen Plant Types and Cyclamen Varieties

Cyclamen heredifolium, also known as ivy-leaved cyclamen, is a robust species that tolerates relatively cold winters. In the United States, it has naturalized in parts of the Pacific Northwest. This autumn-flowering species, popular and easy to grow in the home garden, blooms in shades of pink or white tinged with pink. Grow C. heredifolium in zones 5 through 7. Cyclamen varieties within this species include:

• ‘Nettleton Silver’
• ‘Pewter White’
• ‘Silver Arrow’
• ‘Silver Cloud’
• ‘Bowle’s Apollo’
• ‘White Cloud’

Cyclamen coum sports quarter-sized green or patterned, rounded, or heart-shaped leaves that typically appear in autumn. Small, bright flowers poke up through the foliage in midwinter. This species is hardy to USDA zones 6 and above. Varieties of C. coum include several cultivars within the ‘Pewter Leaf’ group as well as the following:

• ‘Album’
• ‘Maurice Dryden’
• ‘Something Magic’
• ‘Rubrum’
• ‘Silver Leaf’
• ‘Blush’

Cyclamen graecum can be difficult to grow and often isn’t as vigorous as other varieties. However, this species is stunning, with velvety, deep green foliage in vivid colors and patterns. Tiny blooms, sometimes sweetly scented, rise just above the foliage in late summer and autumn. This tender variety is suitable for zones 7 through 9. Cyclamen plant varieties within the C. graecum species include ‘Glyfada’ and ‘Rhodopou.’ Cyclamen mirabile is a charming fall bloomer that produces dainty little flowers and decorative, silver dollar-sized leaves in patterns of green and silver. This species grows in zones 6 through 8. Varieties of C. mirabile include ‘Tilebarn Ann,’ ‘Tilebarn Nicholas,’ and ‘Tilebarn Jan.’

Cyclamen are low, flowering plants that produce bright, beautiful blooms in shades of red, pink, purple, and white. While they do well in garden beds, plenty of gardeners choose to grow them in containers. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow cyclamen in pots.

Container Grown Cyclamen

While they prefer cool weather and actually bloom in the winter, cyclamen plants can’t tolerate temperatures below freezing. This means that if you live in a cold winter environment and want your plants to make it past their dormant summer period, your only options are growing them in a greenhouse or in pots. Unless you already have a greenhouse, pots are certainly the easier route. Growing cyclamen in containers is also a nice way to take advantage of their blooming period. While your container grown cyclamen are flowering, you can move them to a place of honor on the porch or in your home. Once the flowers have passed, you can move the plants out of the way.

Growing Cyclamen in Containers

Cyclamen come in a large number of varieties, and each has slightly different growing conditions. As a rule, though, growing cyclamen in containers is easy and usually successful. Potted cyclamen plants prefer well-draining growing medium, preferably with some compost mixed in. They are not heavy feeders and need very little fertilizer. When planting a cyclamen tuber, choose a pot that leaves about an inch (2.5 cm.) of space around the outside of the tuber. Set the tuber on top of the growing medium and cover it with half an inch (1 cm.) of grit. Multiple tubers can be planted in the same pot as long as they have enough space. Potted cyclamen plants like cool Fahrenheit temperatures in the 60's F. (16 C.) during the day and the 50's F. (10 C.) at night. They grow best if placed in indirect bright sunlight.

Are your cyclamen plant leaves turning yellow and dropping off? Are you wondering if there is any way to save your plant? Find out what to do about yellowing cyclamen leaves in this article.

Why are My Cyclamen Leaves Going Yellow?

It could be normal. Cyclamens come from Mediterranean countries, where winters are mild and summers are extremely dry. Many Mediterranean plants bloom in winter and sleep through the summer so that they don’t have to struggle to survive the dry conditions. When leaves are turning yellow on cyclamen as summer approaches, it may simply mean that the plant is preparing for summer dormancy. It’s not easy to bring a cyclamen back into bloom after a long summer nap, but if you want to try to save your plant over the summer, let the leaves remain in place until they fall off on their own. This allows the tuber to absorb nutrients from the dying leaves. Place the pot in the coolest room in the house for the summer months. Lots of sunlight helps. In the fall, repot the tuber into fresh potting soil. Bury it so that a little of the top remains above the soil. Water lightly until leaves begin to appear, then keep the soil lightly moist at all times. Feed with a houseplant fertilizer designed for flowering plants according to the package instructions.

What to Look For

•Check temperature and water. Warm temperatures and improper watering can also cause yellow leaves on cyclamen plants. Cyclamen plants like daytime temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit (15-18 C.) and night temperatures around 50 degrees F. (10 C.). The blossoms last longer when the plant is kept cool. •Check the soil. Cyclamen likes a moderately moist soil. It should be moist to touch, but never soggy. Water around the sides of the pot or from the bottom to prevent rot. Drain for 20 minutes and then discard the excess water. •Insect pests may be to blame. Cyclamen is susceptible to the usual houseplant insects, all of which can cause some degree of yellowing. Spider mites, aphids, scale insects, and mealybugs can all be treated with insecticidal soap spray. Cyclamen mites are particularly nasty insects, and you probably won’t be able to get rid of them. Discard infested plants to keep the insect from spreading to other houseplants.

Cyclamens are beautiful flowering perennials that produce interesting blooms in shades of pink, purple, red, and white. Since they are not frost hardy, many gardeners grow them in pots. Like most container plants that live for many years, there will come a time when cyclamens need to be repotted. Keep reading to learn more about how to repot a cyclamen plant and cyclamen repotting tips.

Repotting a Cyclamen Plant

Cyclamens, as a rule, should be repotted every two years or so. Depending upon your plant and its container, however, you may have more or less time before it fills up its pot and has to move. When repotting cyclamen plants, it’s really best to wait until their dormant period. Cyclamens, unlike many other plants, actually experience their dormant period in the summer.

Faring best in USDA zones 9 and 10, cyclamens bloom in cool wintertime temperatures and sleep through the hot summer. This means that repotting a cyclamen is best done in the summertime. It’s possible to repot a non-dormant cyclamen, but it will be harder on you and the plant.

How to Repot a Cyclamen

When repotting a cyclamen, pick a container that’s about one inch (2.5 cm.) bigger in diameter than your old one. Fill your new container part of the way with potting medium.

Lift your cyclamen tuber from its old pot and brush off as much old soil as possible, but don’t wet it or rinse it. Set the tuber in the new pot so its top is about an inch (2.5 cm.) below the rim of the pot. Cover it halfway with potting medium.

Place your repotted cyclamen somewhere shady and dry for the rest of the summer. When autumn comes, start watering it. This should encourage new growth to emerge.

Cyclamen plants are often given as Christmas presents because of their winter blooms. Once these blooms fade, unfortunately, many of these plants become trash because people are unaware of how to properly care for them. Well cared for cyclamen plants can be grown for years and divided to create more future Christmas gifts. Continue reading to learn about dividing cyclamen plants.

Cyclamen Plant Division

There are two types of cyclamen: Florist cyclamen, which are the common Christmas cyclamen grown as houseplants, and hardy cyclamen plants, which can be grown outside in zones 5 through 9. Both plants can be divided the same way, though the hardy variety has a better survival rate from divisions. Florist cyclamen plants need cool temperatures between 65 and 70 degrees F. (18-21 C.). Yellowing leaves or lack of blooms can be a sign of temperatures not being satisfactory, or too little sunlight; but it can also be a sign the plant needs to be divided up and repotted. Cyclamens have corm-like tubers or bulbs. These bulbs can become so overgrown that they basically choke each other out.

How to Divide Cyclamen Bulbs

So, when can I divide cyclamen, you ask? Division of cyclamen bulbs of florist cyclamen should be done only when the plant has gone dormant, typically after April. Hardy cyclamen plant division should be done in autumn. Both types have similar bulbs and are divided the same way. Division of cyclamen is fairly easy. When cyclamen plants are dormant, cut back any foliage. Dig up the cyclamen bulbs and clean off any soil from them. At this point, the cyclamen bulbs will look somewhat like a seed potato and will be divided in a similar way. With a clean, sharp knife, cut apart the cyclamen bulb, making sure each piece cut has a nub where the foliage would grow from. Basically, like an eye of a potato. After your cyclamen bulbs are divided, plant each piece in potting mix with the nubs, or eyes, sticking slightly above the soil level. When watering your newly planted cyclamen divisions, be sure not to water the bulbs themselves, as they are very susceptible to root rot at this point. Water only the soil around the cyclamen plant divisions.

Perhaps you received a beautiful cyclamen as a Christmas present. Cyclamen are traditionally a Christmas time plant because their delicate orchid-like blooms are at their fully glory in midwinter. As the blooms start to fade, you may wonder how and when to fertilize a cyclamen. Read on to learn about feeding cyclamen plants.

Feeding Cyclamen Plants

Generally, a complete houseplant fertilizer for cyclamens is recommended, like a 10-10-10 or 20-20-20. Fertilize every three to four weeks. Cyclamen plants with yellowing leaves may benefit from a complete houseplant fertilizer with added iron. To promote and prolong blooms, feed cyclamen plants with a fertilizer high in phosphorus, like 4-20-4, at the beginning of winter just as blooms start to develop. Cyclamen plants like slightly acidic soil and can benefit from an acid fertilizer once a year. Too much fertilizer can cause lush foliage but not many blooms.

When to Fertilize a Cyclamen Plant

Cyclamen plants bloom in winter and then generally go dormant around April. During this bloom period is when cyclamen fertilizing needs are the greatest. In fall, or early winter, fertilize with a low nitrogen fertilizer every other week until blooms appear. Once blooming, it is only necessary to feed cyclamen plants every three to four weeks with a well-balanced houseplant fertilizer. In April, when the plant starts to go dormant, stop fertilizing cyclamen.

Cyclamen (Cyclamen spp.) grows from a tuber and offers bright flowers with inverted petals that make you think of hovering butterflies. These lovely plants can be propagated by seed and also by division of their tubers. However, both propagation methods can prove tricky in certain cyclamen species. Read on for more information about the two primary methods of propagating cyclamen plants: cyclamen seed propagation and cyclamen plant division.

How to Propagate Cyclamen

When you want to learn how to propagate cyclamen, remember that there are at least 20 different species of this plant. All are native to the Mediterranean region and require mild temperatures to thrive. Propagation methods that work well for one species may be problematic for another. Two of the most common species are hardy cyclamen and florist cyclamen. The former is easily propagated by cyclamen seed propagation or dividing cyclamen tubers. Florist cyclamen is more difficult, requiring more know-how and patience.

Cyclamen Seed Propagation

If you want to know how to propagate cyclamen, here is information about cyclamen seed propagation. Propagating cyclamen plants by seed involves soaking the seeds and putting them in the ground at the correct time. Generally, you should soak cyclamen seeds in water for up to 24 hours before you put them in the soil. If you want to plant the cyclamen seeds directly outside, do so in the spring. Wait until the soil warms up to 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit (7-12 C.). They will bloom the following spring. Alternatively, when you are propagating cyclamen plants by seed, you can start them in pots inside during the winter. This may produce blooms the first year. Cyclamen seed propagation can be slow for florist cyclamen, yet this is the only method used by professional growers. Go ahead and give it a try, but have a lot of patience. You aren’t likely to get mature, full-sized blooming plants before 15 months.

Propagating via Cyclamen Plant Division

Don’t try rooting clippings from the stems or leaves of cyclamen plants. When you are propagating cyclamen plants, you want to use the swollen underground root called the tuber. Cyclamens reproduce via this tuber. You can propagate the plant by lifting the tuber from the soil in the fall and dividing it. Replant the pieces under about 2 inches (5 cm.) of soil to encourage them to root before winter arrives. Adding a layer of mulch protects the tuber divisions from cold weather.

Cyclamen is a beautiful plant, but not necessarily a cheap one. Planting one or two in the garden or home is one thing, but if you want to grow a whole swath of them, you’ll notice the price tag adding up quickly. A perfect way to get around this (and also just to get more hands-on in your garden) is growing cyclamen from seed. Planting cyclamen seeds is relatively easy, although it does take quite a while and doesn’t follow all the rules you may be used to with seed germination. Keep reading to learn more about cyclamen seed propagation and how to grow cyclamen from seed.

Can You Grow Cyclamen from Seed?

Can you grow cyclamen from seed? Yes, you can, but it takes some special treatment. For one thing, cyclamen seeds have a period of “ripeness,” basically the month of July, when it’s best to plant them.

You can harvest them yourself or buy ripe seeds from the store. You can also buy dried seeds, but their germination rate won’t be as good. You can get around this somewhat by soaking your dried seeds in water with a tiny splash of dish soap for 24 hours before planting.

How to Grow Cyclamen from Seed

Planting cyclamen seeds requires 3 to 4 inch (8-10 cm.) pots of well-draining compost mixed with grit. Plant about 20 seeds in each pot and cover them with a fine layer of more compost or grit.

In nature, cyclamen seeds germinate in the fall and winter, which means they like it cold and dark. Put your pots in a cool place, ideally around 60 degrees F. (15 C.), and cover them with something to completely block the light.

Also, when planting cyclamen seeds, it may take as long as a couple of months for germination to take place.

Once the seeds sprout, remove the cover and place the pots under grow lights. Keep the plants cool – cyclamen does all of its growing in the winter. As they get bigger, thin and transplant them to bigger pots as needed.

When summer comes, they will go dormant, but if you can manage to keep them cool the whole time, they will grow through the summer and get big faster. That said, you probably won’t see any flowers in the first year.

Cyclamen drooping is so frustrating. One day, your plant’s blooming beautifully, and the next it’s flopped over like a bad haircut. For what it’s worth, this phenomenon is incredibly common, and even the healthiest plants slump dramatically from time to time. Drooping is almost always a symptom with a simple fix, and it is possible to get your cyclamen back to its perky self.

‘But why is my cyclamen drooping?’ we hear you cry. It usually comes down to a few core issues, to do with water, light, temperature, or dormancy. Proper cyclamen care habits, such as cultivation in cool spots and balanced moisture, can work wonders. Some cyclamen varieties, especially the smaller florist types sold in shops, can show stress faster than hardy outdoor cyclamen types, and container-based cyclamens are triggered by temperature swings and dips in moisture.

Once you pinpoint what’s off, a few quick adjustments will have those blooms springing back, transforming your sickly, sagging cyclamen into the vibrant, uplifting winter showpiece it was meant to be.

Understanding Cyclamen Growth and Dormancy

Cyclamen show off with bright blooms and lush leaves, but they’ve got their own rhythm. These perennial plants showcase their delicate yet enduring blooms fall through winter, then crash for a summer snooze. Leaves turn yellow, and the plant sags, so it looks like it’s given up. Relax, it’s not done for. Slumps can be scary, but these plants are tougher than they appear.

Sagging blooms and leaves can be signs of dormancy, not doom. A cyclamen dormancy can look exactly like dying to the uninitiated, but it’s natural. The way to tell is to check the tuber. A firm tuber means it’s resting, not dead. At this point, reduce water to a trickle to save energy for next season’s blooms. Mistaking dormancy for trouble leads to overzealous fixes that harm more than help. At this time, you just need to reduce your watering and let the plant rest. This will help to save all of that energy for a vibrant comeback when the active season returns.

Common Causes of Drooping in Cyclamen

When you see cyclamen flowers drooping, it’s easy to panic, but most of the time, the cause is completely fixable. These plants are sensitive to water, light, and temperature shifts, and they don’t hesitate to show it. Wilting leaves, sad blooms and limp stems usually trace back to a handful of ultra-common care mistakes. Once you know what’s triggering the problem, you can get your sickly cyclamen standing tall again – and watch your cyclamen perk up as if by magic!

1. Overwatering

Quite often, cyclamen wilting is linked to issues with watering, specifically overwatering. Cyclamen blooms slump and their leaves yellow, and basically too much water turns cyclamen into a soggy mess. Wet soil can rot the roots, leaving them mushy and foul. Make sure you water from below with a tray, letting soil dry slightly. Overdo it, and roots choke, killing the plant’s spark.

Overwatering is a killer for these fussy plants. A pot with drainage holes and well-draining soil prevents the soggy mess. Check with a finger or a 4-in-1 Soil Moisture Meter like the Raintrip Soil Meter from Amazon. If it’s wet, hold off. Careful watering keeps those blooms standing tall. Remember, water at the base of plants to avoid splashing, which can lead to issues such as disease.

2. Underwatering

If you notice that the cyclamen leaves crisp up in combination with blooms sagging, chances are that your cyclamen’s parched. Thirst makes it slump, too weak to hold those flowers high. Water when the soil’s top feels dry. Steady sips, not a flood, bring it back from the brink.

A parched cyclamen loses its vigor fast. Check soil regularly to catch dryness early. Tray watering is a wonderful way to help prevent the roots from rotting while quenching their thirst. You can get Garland Self Watering Plant Trays from Amazon to keep cyclamen happy for up to two weeks at a time. Balance is the key. If it gets too little water, then it’s a wilted mess. When you get it right, those blooms pop back up, completely full of life.

3. Temperature Stress

When you see blooms droop and leaves sag, it could be a sign of temperature shifts, fluctuations or incorrect levels making cyclamen unhappy. They like to thrive in the cooler air, and tend to like it to stay around 50-65°F (10-18°C). Sitting in temperatures above 70°F (21°C) or drafts below 40°F (4°C) will take away its vigor. When keeping cyclamen indoors, be sure to steer clear of radiators or overly cold, frosty windowsills.

Cyclamens can be a little fussy when kept as houseplants. All it takes is being just a little too hot or cold, and they get agitated. A stable, cool spot like a shaded windowsill keeps them up and happy. Use a thermometer such as the ThermoPro TP50 from Amazon to avoid swings. Steady conditions stop the drooping, so those delicate blooms stand proud.

4. Lighting Issues

When you see signs of leaf burn or growth going limp, this indicates that bad lighting has got your cyclamen down. Harsh sun scorches it, while dim spots starve it into a droopy heap. You need bright, indirect light for 6–8 hours daily, in a place like a north-facing window, to keep those blooms perky and strong. Poor light makes cyclamen wilt like a tired kid. A light meter like the Handheld Illuminance Light Meter from Amazon helps nail the sweet spot. Move them from harsh rays or dim corners.

Proper light is important to keep your plant looking lively and bold. If you want to regulate light efficiently, try some dimmable grow lights, like the Sansi Dimmable Puck Grow Lights from Amazon, to boost indirect light.

5. Pests or Diseases

When you see blooms fade, or you get holes in leaves and blooms, and the leaves sag, these could be signs of cyclamen disease or pests. Insects like aphids, mites and scale can drain the plant, and some leave sticky gunk or webs. Similarly, wet leaves or excessive periods spent sitting in water can spark bacterial rot or fungal rot, with soft, off-color tubers as proof. These troublemakers make cyclamen wilt fast.

Cyclamen hate these uninvited guests. Wipe leaves with soapy water or use a neem oil spray to fight back. Try a readymade spray like Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Oil Spray from Amazon. Keep leaves dry and air moving to dodge fungi. A quick reaction stops the drooping, bringing back that vibrant, upright charm in no time.

How to Revive a Drooping Cyclamen

A droopy cyclamen begs for a quick check to snap back. Dig into the soil – is it too wet or bone-dry? A moisture meter can help you isolate the problem. Peek at roots; mushy, dark ones scream rot, requiring a trim. Or do you spot pests like spider mites or aphids creeping on those leaves?

Make sure you catch the signs early. Place sickly cyclamen plants in bright, indirect light and cool air at the proper temperatures. Trim all of the faded leaves and deadhead blooms to restore vigor. If the tuber is firm, then reduce water and allow for its natural period of dormancy. Sadly, a soft and smelly tuber is a sign your plant is done for, so all you can do is toss it.

If you know it is one of the above issues, though, just take the appropriate steps quickly and it should perk up. In weeks, blooms will stand tall again, turning a sad cyclamen into a showstopper.

Your Cyclamen Revival Kit

Preventative Cyclamen Care Tips

Cyclamen stay perky with a steady routine. Water when the soil’s top dries, using a tray to keep that tuber safe. I recommend using a peat-based, well-draining soil in a pot with holes is the way to go. A reliably nourishing option is Back to the Roots 100% Organic Indoor Potting Mix from Walmart. To help maintain good airflow. It’s ok to add a little perlite to help keep drainage at optimal levels. Make sure that you feed every month with balanced fertilizer from fall to spring, easing off for summer.

Place in cool, bright, indirect light, and avoid hot or drafty spots. Watch for early trouble, such as slight leaf curl or fading blooms. Quick intervention stops full wilting. Good air flow keeps fungi at bay. This routine ensures your plant stays perky, for year-round delight and ongoing cyclamen splendor.

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Cyclamens make lovely houseplants during their bloom season. Once the blossoms fade the plant enters a period of dormancy, and it can look as though it is dead. Let’s find out about cyclamen dormancy care and what to expect when your plant begins to fade.

Is My Cyclamen Dormant or Dead?

During the cyclamen dormant period, the plant may seem to be dead. First, the blossoms shrivel and drop off, and then the leaves yellow and fall. This is a normal part of a cyclamen's life cycle, and you shouldn't be alarmed. There are two things you can check to make sure your plant is still alive. First, look at the calendar. When it’s time for the plant to go dormant, nothing can stop the decline. If you still have doubts, you can push some of the soil aside and check the corm. It should be plump and firm. Soft, shriveled, or slimy corms indicate trouble.

When Do Cyclamens Go Dormant

Cyclamen are Mediterranean plants, and they follow a typical life cycle for plants from that region. Winters are mild and summers are dry. Plants learn to survive by blooming in winter or early spring and going dormant in the summer when moisture is scarce. With proper care, dormant cyclamen plants will reemerge in the fall. While they rest, cyclamens need dry soil and dim light. Cool temperatures encourage abundant blossoms during the next cycle. Stop watering the plant when it enters its decline. If you are using a peat-based potting mixture, you should drizzle a small amount of water onto the soil now and then to keep it from drying completely. Moisture can cause the corm to rot, so use water sparingly, moistening only the surface of the soil. Move the plant to a brighter location when it shows signs of life in the fall. Water the pot thoroughly, adding a complete liquid fertilizer for flowering plants according to the package instructions. Keep it cool to encourage flowering, with daytime temperatures no higher than 65 degrees F. (18 C.) and night temperatures around 50 degrees F. (10 C.).

Several diseases and conditions can turn your perky little cyclamen into messy yellow leaves and dying blossoms. Can diseased plants be saved? This article focuses on tips to help you prevent cyclamen plant diseases so that you don’t have to throw away your plants.

Caring for Sick Cyclamen

Before you decide something is wrong, remember that the leaves on a healthy cyclamen plant turn yellow and drop off in summer. This is perfectly normal—the plant is just preparing to go dormant. After a summer nap, the leaves regrow. Indoor cyclamen diseases infect plants during the winter growing period. There is no cure for many of these diseases, and the best course of action is to discard them before the disease spreads to other plants. Cyclamen plants aren’t very expensive, and they are difficult to bring back into bloom after the first flush of flowers. For these reasons, many people simply replace their plants when problems develop. If you decide to try caring for sick cyclamen plants, keep them isolated. Wear an apron when working with diseased plants, and don’t wear the apron outside of the immediate area. Wash your hands and thoroughly disinfect tools with a household disinfectant before working with healthy plants.

Cyclamen Plant Diseases

Growers should be aware of these devastating diseases in cyclamen: Bacterial soft rot and Fusarium wilt cause the entire plant to rapidly turn yellow and die. There is nothing to do but discard the plant. To prevent these cyclamen diseases, buy corms from reputable sources and plant them in clean media. If you are reusing a pot, scrub it out thoroughly with a household disinfectant or a weak bleach solution before planting. Botrytis blight causes tan leaf spots. Flower petals look water-soaked at first, and then they develop tan spots as well. The whole plant might be covered with gray fungus. You might be able to save your cyclamen if you catch the disease soon enough. Place it in isolation and run a fan to improve the circulation. The disease is contagious, so keep a close eye on plants that may have been exposed. Leaf spot causes round spots that can be yellow, gray, or brown. If you look closely, you’ll see black dots inside the spots. Isolate the plant to keep the disease from spreading. Try to avoid getting water on the leaves or the crown when you water the plant. If you can’t water cyclamen from the top without wetting the leaves or crown, water from the bottom. Thielaviopsis root rot causes stunted plants. If you check the roots, you’ll find that they are black and shriveled instead of plump and white. Discard plants infected with this disease. Viruses cause a number of symptoms, including misshapen, deformed leaves and flowers, and abnormal color patterns such as streaking and ring spots. If you suspect your plant is infected with a virus, discard it immediately.

Informed shoppers buy cyclamen plants when they are loaded with swollen buds so that they can enjoy the open flowers in their homes over a long period of time. Buds that fail to open lead to disappointment, and it is hard to get the plant to produce new buds. Find out why when cyclamen buds don’t open in this article.

Buds Not Opening on Cyclamen

Today’s cyclamen hybrids are bigger and more vivid in color than at any time in the past. Some of them also have a sweet scent. These lovely plants are a bit fussy to keep, but they are worth a little extra effort. Failure to meet their moisture and temperature requirements can lead to cyclamen buds not opening.

In their native climate, cyclamen flowers bloom during mild, Mediterranean winters when they enjoy cooler temperatures. Ideal daytime temperatures are between 60 and 65 degrees F. (15-18 C.), with night temperatures around 50 degrees F. (10 C.). Modern hybrids let you stretch these temperatures a bit, but they still prefer to stay cool.

At the same time, they prefer indirect light, so never set them in a bright window. If you aren’t sure whether you have direct or indirect sunlight, look at the shadow behind the plant. Direct light casts a crisp, sharp shadow, while indirect light will produce a fuzzy shadow, if any.

Cyclamen plants are more exacting about their water requirements than most plants. We’re taught to water our potted plants when the soil is dry at a depth of an inch (2.5 cm.) or so, but cyclamens want water when the surface of the soil feels dry. When you water the plant, don’t get the crown or center part of the plant wet. If there isn’t room to water the plant without getting the crown wet, set the pot in a dish of water and let it soak up moisture from the bottom for about 15 minutes.

As with most plants, you should keep the faded blossoms plucked off. This encourages them to bloom more freely and over a longer period. When deadheading cyclamen, it’s best to use scissors and clip them as close to the bottom as possible.

Mites and Non-Blooming Cyclamen

If you’ve met all of these requirements and your cyclamen flower buds don’t open, the answer may be cyclamen mites. These tiny creatures attack a wide range of flowering plants in greenhouses, but they do the most damage on cyclamen plants. They hitch a ride into your home on new plants and spread from plant to plant once inside.

You may not be able to see cyclamen mites with the naked eye, but you can see them clustered around flower buds with the aid of a hand lens. They are orange or pink and slightly transparent, and, unlike other mites that only have six legs, cyclamen mites can have eight legs. The females lay their eggs around the buds, and when they hatch, the larva enters the buds where they feed by sucking sap from the unopened petals. Infested buds never open.

These mites are very difficult to control, and they spread rapidly from plant to plant. The best solution is to dispose of infested plants to protect the other plants in your home. If you decide to try to save the cyclamen, keep it in isolation and keep the tools you use on it clean. Wear an apron when working with infested plants and leave it in the room with the plant. The mites don’t respond well to insecticides.

Trim the infested buds off the non-blooming cyclamen and immerse the top of the plant in a bucket of 110 degrees F. (40 C.) water. Leave the plant underwater for 15 to 30 minutes, making sure that the water temperature stays at a steady 110 degrees. Keep the plant isolated after immersion treatment until you are sure there are no more mites.

Do you throw away your cyclamen plants at the end of their bloom cycle? Dropped flowers and yellowing foliage make them look as though they are dying, but they are really just entering a dormant period. Find out how to get cyclamen to bloom again in this article.

My Cyclamen Won’t Flower

Cyclamen is a Mediterranean plant. Summers in Mediterranean regions are difficult for some plants to bear because of the intense sunlight and little or no rain. Some Mediterranean plants, such as cyclamen, enter a dormant period during summer. They drop their leaves and flowers and rest until late summer or early autumn. You can help them through their resting phase by providing ideal conditions for their summer nap.

How to Get Cyclamen to Bloom Again

Getting blooms on cyclamen plants isn’t difficult, but you have to give the plant a summer rest followed by the proper conditions to bloom again. Follow these instructions for beautiful results every year. In late spring, the leaves on a cyclamen plant begin to turn yellow. This is a signal that it is ready to rest. Stop fertilizing the plant, and gradually give it less and less water. Once all of the leaves are yellow, you can quit watering altogether. The tuber absorbs energy from the yellowing leaves, so leave them alone until they are completely dry. Place the pot in the coolest room in your home for a summer rest. During this time, the plant won’t need much sunlight, so choose the resting site by temperature rather than light conditions. You won’t need to water it regularly but check the tuber now and then to make sure it isn’t beginning to shrivel. Give it just enough water to keep it firm and smooth. In late August or early September, your cyclamen will begin putting on fresh foliage. Water the plant thoroughly, pouring out any water that collects in the saucer. Water again every time the upper inch (2.5 cm.) of the soil becomes dry. Add a liquid houseplant fertilizer for flowering plants monthly, mixing it according to the package instructions. Set the plant in a south, east, or west-facing window, and you’ll soon have a new flush of cyclamen flowers. Now that your cyclamens are blooming again, you’ll want to keep them in bloom as long as possible. Two essential ingredients are cool night temperatures and frequent deadheading. Cyclamens thrive in cool temperatures, and they like night temperatures as cool as 40 degrees F. (4 C.). Despite the best care, cyclamen flowers eventually fade. As soon as they are no longer perky and attractive, cut them off near the base of the plant. This keeps faded flowers from becoming a drain on the plant’s energy. Next time you find that your cyclamen plants are not blooming, it might be that all they need is a nap.

By Mary Dyer, Master Naturalist and Master Gardener Cyclamen need not only be enjoyed in the home. Hardy cyclamen lights up the garden with showy mounds of silvery-white foliage and heart-shaped leaves that appear in autumn and last until the plant goes dormant in late spring. Deep rose-pink blooms appear in late winter and early spring. Fall-blooming varieties are also available. Although this woodland plant looks delicate, hardy cyclamen is vigorous and easy to grow. The plant pairs well with other small woodland plants such as hellebores, ajuga, or trillium. Hardy cyclamen tops out at 3 to 6 inches (8-15 cm.).

Planting Hardy Cyclamen Bulbs Outdoors

Growing hardy cyclamen outdoors is simple as long as you follow a few general guidelines. Hardy cyclamen is difficult to propagate from seed, but you can plant bulbs, or tubers, in late summer or early autumn. Plant the tubers with the top of the tuber just below the surface of the soil. Allow 6 to 10 inches (15-25 cm.) between each tuber. Unlike florist's cyclamen that grows outdoors only in warm climates, hardy cyclamen tolerates cold climates and freezing winters. However, this cool climate plant doesn't survive where summers are hot and dry. Hardy cyclamen grows in nearly any type of loose, well-drained soil. Dig a few inches (8 cm.) of mulch, compost, or other organic matter into the soil before planting, especially if your soil is clay-based or sandy.

Hardy Cyclamen Care

Care of hardy cyclamen is simple and the plants require minimal maintenance to look their best. Water the plant regularly during spring and summer but don't overwater because the tubers may rot in waterlogged soil. Brush excessive leaves and debris from the plant in autumn. Although a light layer of mulch or leaves protects the roots from the winter cold, too much cover prevents the plants from getting light. Divide tubers in late summer, but don't disturb old, well-established tubers, which can grow to the size of a plate and produce hundreds of blooms every year. One tuber can sometimes live for several generations.

Article summary: Cyclamen thrive in cool, humid conditions with bright, indirect light and consistently moist but well-draining soil. Indoors, keep plants away from heat sources, water at the base when the soil has partially dried, and avoid overfeeding to prevent leafy growth at the expense of flowers. After blooming, cyclamen naturally enter dormancy and need reduced watering and a cool resting period to rebloom successfully the following season.

Quick Cyclamen Facts

• Botanical name – Cyclamen persicum
• Height – 6-9 inches (15-23cm)
• Spread – 6-9 inches (15-23cm)
• Sun exposure – Partial shade
• Soil requirements – Neutral, slightly acidic
• Hardiness zones – USDA 9-11
• When to plant – Fall

The right cyclamen care will reward you with some of winter’s most charming and vibrant bloomers. Cyclamens are known for their petite stature and quaint blooms. They can make attractive perennial garden plants and effective groundcover through their hardiness range. Certain cultivars can also be grown as stunning container displays. Learning how to care for cyclamen is a great way to add color during the coldest months of the year.

There are over 20 species of cyclamen available to gardeners. Though these types are similar in form and structure, they can vary in bloom time. Hardiness levels also differ from one species to the next, with some cultivars being more tolerant of the cold. Certain varieties such as Cyclamen persicum (aka florist’s cyclamen) are not frost-tolerant. That said, they can be kept going beyond their first flush of flowers if given the right treatment.

Cyclamen Plant Care Made Simple

Caring for a cyclamen begins with deciding whether you are going to be growing outside or inside, in the ground or in containers. In nature, cyclamen plants grow in cool, humid environments. Hardy types of cyclamen sold for outside use are typically hardy to USDA zone 5. Check the plant’s label to determine the specific hardiness of the cyclamen variety you wish to grow.

This distinction between indoor and outdoor growing is critical to making the right plant selection. For example, cyclamen that are sold as houseplants are tropical and cannot tolerate temperatures below 40 degrees F (4°C). However, if temperatures are too high, the plant will begin to yellow and the flowers will fade rapidly. So bear this in mind if growing cyclamen indoors.

How to Care for Cyclamen Indoors

For anyone growing hardy cyclamen outdoors, there are relatively few cultivation essentials to worry about on a regular basis. Once you have selected a good spot outdoors in the correct hardiness zone, ongoing cyclamen care mainly involves sensible watering. However, indoor cyclamen care requires just a little more attention. This is especially important if you wish to keep your plants growing and flowering year after year, as you may occasionally notice drooping cyclamen plants midseason.

Best Light for Cyclamen

Cyclamen grow best in partial shade and prefer bright, indirect light. For the best cyclamen care indoors, try to recreate the conditions that help them thrive outside. Experienced growers suggest situating these plants near a south-facing window throughout winter, making certain to avoid direct sun. Dimmable grow lights, like these ones from Amazon, are also a great option to replicate indirect sun.

Temperature & Humidity

Temperatures need to be consistently cool, between 60-65°F (15-18°C). Cyclamen houseplants also need high humidity levels to maintain a lush, glossy appearance. You can raise humidity for houseplants by misting frequently and placing the container in a small dish of gravel containing water, like the Brussel's Bonsai Humidity Tray from Amazon. Avoid placing cyclamen near vents and move them safely away from drafts.

Watering Cyclamen

Consistent moisture is a key aspect of cyclamen plant care, especially for container-based options. When the top third of the soil or compost has dried, water cyclamen in pots thoroughly. Bear in mind that watering container plants from above can lead to fungal diseases within the plant, specifically the crown. Water at the base of the plant so as to avoid splashing the stems or leaves. Soak the soil thoroughly and let excess water drain away.

Fertilizing Cyclamen

While indoor cyclamen plants require routine fertilization, it’s important to avoid overfeeding. A surplus of nutrients within the soil leads to excessive leafy growth. When feeding cyclamen plants, use only low-nitrogen fertilizers every six weeks to two months. Continue feeding during the growing season, but cease as the plant approaches dormancy.

Soil & Compost

When grown outdoors, cyclamen just require a soil that drains well, with a neutral or slightly acidic pH. For indoor growing, choose a compost for your houseplant that blends good moisture retention with adequate drainage. Most high-quality potting mixes are suitable for good indoor cyclamen care. We recommend this Back to the Roots 100% Organic Indoor Potting Mix from Amazon. Gardeners can also create their own medium using a combination of compost, coconut coir, perlite and other amendments.

Planting and Container Care for Cyclamen

In the garden, cyclamen are most commonly planted in the fall. Established plants are generally moved into pots at this time and taken indoors. Planting cyclamen in containers allows growers to maintain their favorite varieties throughout winter and even helps to encourage them to bloom. To thrive, container grown cyclamen plants will grow best in pots that are twice the depth and width of the plant’s root ball.

For optimum growth, repot cyclamen plants every two to three years. If you are repotting a cyclamen plant, wait until it is dormant (in other words, not actively growing).

Best Cyclamen Care When Flowering Stops

Once a cyclamen stops flowering, this is when it will enter its dormant state. The right care during a cyclamen dormancy period is critical to the future health and flowering potential of the plant. Most cyclamen will require an extended period of dormancy in order to bloom again. Sadly, this can often be confused with dying, as it involves leaves turning yellow and falling off.

The best cyclamen care after blooming involves ensuring your plants can settle and rest undisturbed and unimpeded. To help plants prepare for dormancy, growers can deadhead or remove spent flower stalks back to the base of the plant. As cyclamen approach dormancy, you should also reduce the frequency of watering.

How to Make Cyclamen Plants Bloom Again

With proper cyclamen care, you can help your plant through its dormancy so it will bloom again in a few months. Hardy cyclamen planted outdoors go through this process naturally. Indoors, make sure cyclamen are kept in a relatively dark as well as cool environment while sleeping. Gently remove any dead foliage and leave to sit for a couple of months.

When a cyclamen has finished its dormancy period, you can start to water it again and bring it out of storage. New leaf growth is a good indication that your plant is waking up. At this point, you can set the pot in a tub of water for an hour or so, before letting any excess water drain away. Once leaves start to grow, resume normal cultivation. Even if cyclamen plants are not blooming again straight away, these steps to optimal cyclamen flower care should ensure they rebloom the following winter.

Pruning Cyclamen Plants

Cyclamen in pots seldom require pruning. However, during their life cycle there are times when they will benefit from the removal of plant matter. Though not essential, deadheading flowers that have faded will help to keep pots looking their best. Further deadheading is beneficial at the end of the bloom cycle, as the plant prepares for dormancy. As cyclamen foliage begins to yellow, clip stems to soil level to help prevent disease.

How to Propagate Cyclamen 

As well as knowing how to care for cyclamen to keep existing plants healthy, you can use propagation to increase your winter blooms. You can propagate cyclamen plants by using division and by gathering seed. Fresh seed will germinate well but the process can be lengthy, ranging from several weeks to over a year. Dividing established cyclamen is a quicker way to increase numbers. Dig up tubers during the plant’s dormancy period. Cut each tuber carefully into smaller segments for replanting. Each part should have at least one viable growth eye.

Cyclamen Problems, Pests and Diseases

Though indoor cyclamen care is relatively simple, it’s important to be aware of the development of key diseases. Overwatering cyclamen plants makes them especially susceptible to rot. Some common cyclamen disease include tuber rot and pythium root rot, which can happen when cyclamen grows with inadequate drainage. Powdery mildew and forms of wilt may also be problematic. These can occur in cramped conditions where you haven’t given plants good airflow and ventilation.

Indoor plants are only seldom plagued by pests, but you may find that aphids or mites can become an issue if left untreated. Tackle with diluted soap washes or horticultural sprays like Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Oil Spray from Amazon. If growing outside, encourage beneficial predators like lacewings, which can also help control numbers.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Cyclamen a Perennial or an Annual?

Within their hardiness range, cyclamen plants are considered to be a dependable perennial groundcover. Those growing the plant indoors, outside of its range, most often treat cyclamen as an annual plant and forget about them once they stop flowering. However, it is possible to keep cyclamen as a perennial. Just allow potted plants to go dormant through the summer months, then give them some tender loving care when they spring back into life ahead of the next flowering season.

When do Cyclamen Become Dormant?

Dormancy in cyclamen plants will vary, depending upon your growing zone. In general, if you are growing them indoors, you can expect them to begin showing signs of dormancy sometime in early-mid spring. By summer, most plants will have died back completely. Dormancy usually lasts for around two months, at which point you can restart the cycle of cyclamen care as you head back towards winter.

Cyclamen Care Essentials

• Dimmable grow lights, like these ones from Amazon, are a great option to replicate the growing conditions your Cyclamen needs.
• You can raise humidity for houseplants by misting frequently and placing the container in a small dish of gravel containing water, like the Brussel's Bonsai Humidity Tray from Amazon.
• Most high-quality potting mixes are suitable for good indoor cyclamen care. We recommend this Back to the Roots 100% Organic Indoor Potting Mix from Amazon.
• You may find that aphids or mites can become an issue and can be treated with Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Oil Spray from Amazon.