Daffodils are some of the earliest flowers to appear in the spring. Even if they're poking their heads up through the snow, they're a sure sign that warmer weather is coming.

Once planted, daffodils will more or less take care of themselves, naturalizing and bringing back their cheerful show every year. In this guide, we'll cover how to plant daffodil bulbs at the right time and in the right place. We'll also touch on propagation, problems, and what exactly you're supposed to do after your flowers have faded. So read on to learn how to grow one of the most cheerful types of bulbs out there.

Daffodil Quick Facts

Daffodil Planting

When it comes to daffodils, timing is everything. Plant your daffodil bulbs in the autumn, once the soil has cooled but before the first hard frost sets in. This allows the bulbs to establish a strong root system before the winter freeze. Even if you miss the window, you can often plant as late as December, as long as the ground is still workable. I personally have planted daffodils after the ground was partially frozen. It wasn't fun, but it did work.

If you plant daffodil bulbs late in the fall, they will probably grow but may have stunted flowers or no flowers at all in the spring. Be patient and give them a season to get settled – they should bloom well the following year.

Daffodil Soil Requirements

When you're choosing a site, prioritize drainage above all else. Daffodils are extremely hardy, but wet feet can be a death sentence for them. If your garden has heavy clay, try amending the soil with compost or grit. Or, to be safer, opt for a container or raised bed instead.

Daffodil Light Requirements

Daffodils love full sun! That being said, they're perfect candidates for spots under deciduous trees and shrubs. That's because they come up so early in the spring, they get all the sunlight they need before the trees leaf out. Once the leaves appear, their shade will help keep the dormant bulbs cool.

While they prefer full sun, they'll still perform well in part shade.

Step-by-Step Planting Guide

1. Choose a spot in full sun or part shade, with well-draining soil.
2. Loosen the soil to a depth of about 12 inches (30 cm). If your soil is heavy, mix in compost or grit.
3. Dig a hole 3 times as deep as the bulb is tall. Space bulbs 3-6 inches (7.5-15 cm) apart.
4. Place the bulb pointy end up, flat/rooted end down.
5. Cover the bulb and lightly firm the soil with your hand.
6. Water thoroughly.
7. Add 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) of mulch.
8. Wait until spring!

How to Care for Daffodils

Daffodils require very little active care. Once they come up in spring, all you really have to do is enjoy them.

Watering Daffodils

Outdoor daffodils don't necessarily need watering at all. They're susceptible to root rot, so overwatering is more dangerous than underwatering. As long as you're getting somewhat regular rain during their growth period in spring, they should be fine on their own.

If your daffodils are up and the weather is unseasonably dry, it's a good idea to water them occasionally. Just make sure the soil doesn't get waterlogged.

Fertilizing Daffodils

As the flowers begin to fade, fertilize daffodils with a light application of a low-nitrogen, high-potassium fertilizer – this will help the bulbs recharge for the following year. This Bulb Tone fertilizer from Amazon is a perfect choice. Avoid fertilizers high in nitrogen – they'll encourage extra foliage growth and leave the bulb with less energy for next year's blooms.

Post-Bloom Daffodil Care

The most critical part of daffodil care actually happens after the flowers are gone. You should deadhead spent daffodil blooms as they fade, to keep the plant from wasting energy on seed production.

It's vital, however, to leave the foliage until it withers and dies back naturally – a process that usually takes about six weeks. After daffodil flowers are gone, these leaves keep photosynthesizing and storing up energy for the next season. Cut back the leaves too early, and you're sabotaging next year's flowers.

The Perils of Daffodil Braiding

You may have seen daffodil leaves braided or tied up in knots – some gardeners do this to give their gardens a "tidier" look. Don't do this! It seriously reduces the surface area of leaves that can absorb and photosynthesize sunlight, and it can lead to stunted or missing flowers, also known as daffodil blindness.

If you want to hide fading daffodil foliage, intersperse your bulbs with perennials that will fill in throughout the spring and camouflage the wilting leaves.

It's okay to prune daffodil foliage once it's turned brown and brittle. I like to give it a gentle tug – if it comes away from the ground easily, it's ready to go. If there's some resistance, I leave it to fade some more.

Daffodil Dormancy

After the foliage has faded completely, daffodils enter their dormant period. The bulbs will stay underground, unseen, until the following spring. While dormant, daffodils are remarkably drought tolerant, so resist the urge to water! They actually prefer to stay dry during the heat of the summer.

Daffodil Care Calendar

Daffodil Varieties

When most people think "daffodil," they picture the standard yellow trumpet. If they have a wild imagination, they might see a white and orange variety. In fact, the Narcissus genus is very diverse – some varieties of daffodil are tiny, some are multi-flowered, and some have so many petals that they look more like dahlias.

Here are some of the most popular daffodil varieties:

• Classic Trumpet Daffodils: These are the quintessential spring flowers with a central trumpet. ‘Dutch Master’ is the gold standard for large, sturdy yellow blooms that reliably return year after year.
• Large-Cupped Daffodils: These are popular because they're incredibly hardy and come in the widest range of colors. Cultivars like ‘Ice Follies’ start with a yellow cup that matures to a soft white, creating a beautiful two-toned effect.
• Double Bloom & Frilly Daffodils: For a high-drama look, Double Daffodils produce extra layers of petals in the center, often resembling peonies or gardenias. The popular cultivar ‘Sun Catchers' boasts mountains of deep golden petals.

• Miniature & Dwarf Daffodils: Standing only 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm) tall, mini daffodils are perfect for rock gardens and front-of-border displays. The classic ‘Tete-a-Tete’ is a garden favorite for its reliable, multi-flowered stems.
• Poet's Daffodils (Narcissus poeticus): Also known as Pheasant's Eye, these are some of the most fragrant and late-blooming varieties. They feature icy-white petals and a tiny, flat yellow cup with a distinct red rim.
• Jonquil Daffodils: These are prized for their intense fragrance and their ability to produce multiple small flowers on a single stem. ‘Quail’ is a popular golden-yellow variety that's exceptionally heat-tolerant.

How to Propagate Daffodils

After 3-5 years of happy blooming, you may notice your daffodils producing more foliage and fewer flowers. This is because the original bulbs have produced so many offsets that they've gotten crowded, and it's a sign that you should divide them.

To propagate the daffodils by division, wait until the foliage has started to yellow. Then carefully lift the bulbs with a garden fork. There should be a cluster of bulbs, including some large bulbs with smaller offsets attached. With your hands, gently pull these offsets away from the parent bulb. Plant them right away at the same depth in a new location. Replant the parent bulbs in the original spot.

Daffodil Winter Care

In USDA Zones 3-8, daffodils are perfectly happy staying in the ground all winter. In fact they require a chilling period of several weeks to trigger flowering. All they need is a few inches of mulch to provide extra protection against temperature swings and soil heaving, where the ground expands and contracts and actually pushes the bulbs toward the surface.

If you live in zone 9 or higher, outdoor daffodils won't be able to get that essential chilling period. In this case, you'll either have to treat them as annuals or force them. To force daffodils in warm climates, wait until the foliage has died back, then dig up the bulbs. Store them in your refrigerator for 10-12 weeks to simulate winter, then replant them outdoors in late autumn.

Just make sure to keep the bulbs away from fruit – fruit emits ethylene, which will kill the flower bulb!

Common Daffodil Problems

Daffodils are famously pest-resistant, mostly because they contain a toxic alkaloid called lycorine. This makes them taste terrible for deer, rabbits, and even squirrels, who seem born to dig up and steal flower bulbs.

Daffodils aren't invincible, though. Here are some common daffodil problems:

• Narcissus Bulb Fly: This insect's larvae burrow into the bulb, causing the plant to produce only a few spindly leaves or none at all.
• Daffodil Blindness: This is the term given to daffodils producing healthy foliage but no flowers. This can happen because the bulbs were planted too shallowly, the foliage was cut back too early, or the bulbs are too crowded. Luckily, all three can be fixed easily!
• Root Rot: This happens when the soil becomes waterlogged. It results in stunted, withered, or yellow leaves.
• Narcissus Yellow Stripe Virus: Stripes of white or yellow on daffodil leaves spread and become necrotic, eventually killing the entire leaf. There's no cure, and affected plants should be removed and destroyed.

How to Grow Daffodils in Containers

Daffodils are very well suited to container life, both indoors and out. If you're growing daffodils in containers, the most important thing is to make sure the container has drainage holes, and the potting mix is well-draining. Since pots are more exposed to the elements than the ground, you may need to wrap the container in burlap or move it to a sheltered spot like an unheated garage during the harshest part of winter.

How to Grow Daffodils Indoors

It's possible to grow daffodils indoors, but they do need a chilling period in order to bloom. To achieve this, you may have to force the bulbs.

Forcing Daffodils

Forcing daffodils indoors is easy, as long as you give them the necessary chilling period. It's possible to buy pre-chilled daffodil bulbs, like these from Amazon. These can be planted straightaway and will bloom in a few weeks.

If you have regular, unchilled bulbs, you'll have to start the process about four months ahead of your desired bloom time, then follow these steps:

1. Fill a pot with well-draining potting mix to about 2 inches (5 cm) from the rim.
2. Crowd several daffodil bulbs in the pot, so they take up most of the surface of the soil.
3. Add more soil, so that just the pointed tips of the bulbs are exposed to the air.
4. Water thoroughly.
5. Place the pot somewhere cold – either a refrigerator or outdoors (in cold areas), sunk into a hole and covered in mulch.
6. Wait for 10-12 weeks.
7. Move the pot to a cool room (50-55 F or 10-13 C) for two weeks.
8. Begin watering again.
9. Move the pot to a warmer room and watch for growth.

If you don't want to deal with chilling requirements, you can always force paperwhite narcissus instead. Paperwhites are a sub-species of daffodil that, unlike their cousins, don't need a cold period to bloom.

To force paperwhites, simply nestle the bulbs in a shallow bowl of pebbles and water. In a few weeks, they'll produce fragrant white flowers.

Daffodil Companion Plants

Since you have to leave its foliage to die back naturally, good daffodil companion plants are those that grow to fill in the space in mid to late spring to act as camouflage.

Some good choices are hostas, daylilies, peonies, and bleeding hearts, all of which have a similar growth habit that takes over the spotlight just as the daffodils retire.

Lasagna Planting

If you want nonstop color all spring long, you should try lasagna bulb planting.

In the fall, dig a hole (or start with a container) at least 3 times as deep as your daffodil bulbs, and place a couple daffodil bulbs at the bottom. Cover them with soil, then place a layer of tulip bulbs. Cover those with soil, and add a final layer of muscari or crocus bulbs. Fill the hole in the rest of the way.

Come spring, each layer of flowers will bloom in succession, giving you long lasting color in the same spot.

Daffodil Frequently Asked Questions

Daffodil Quiz

Daffodil Care Essentials

• Want to force daffodils but don't have time to chill? Buy these pre-chilled daffodil bulbs, available on Amazon.
• Keep your garden blooming for months with this special 100 day mix from Burpee. Made up of different varieties of daffodil, it guarantees daffodil blooms for 100 straight days.
• Give your daffodils a boost every spring with Bulb Tone fertilizer from Amazon.

Daffodils are one of the earlier spring bulbs, rising up with their cheerful, yellow heads long before other plants blossom. Once the flower is spent; however, what should you do with the leaves?

Some people tie up daffodil leaves after the bulb has flowered, while still others opt for braiding daffodils. Which is correct, and is either method a good idea for daffodil care? Read on to learn what, if anything, to do with daffodil leaves after bloom.

Should you Tie Daffodils after Flowering?

Daffodil blooms stay perky and colorful for around four to six weeks. After that the foliage becomes less erect and eventually begins to yellow.

While the plants might look less than tidy, the time period between flower fade and cutting back of the foliage is crucial. During this time, the bulb absorbs energy through the leaves via the sun. This energy is then used the following year to produce bloom and foliage.

So, if you decide to cut off the foliage right after the bloom fades, you aren’t giving the plant a chance to replenish its energy. The result will be a bulb that doesn’t bloom the following year.

What about braiding the foliage or tying it back? While this might make the plant look tidy in the garden, again, it is interfering with the bulb's ability to replenish its food source. So, if you want to have gorgeous daffodils, allow the foliage to die back on its own and then cut it back.

Ideally, the pros say not to touch the foliage until July 4th by which time the plant has absorbed sufficient energy. By then, the foliage will have turned brown, which is about eight weeks after the bloom fades. To cover unsightly foliage, plan to plant perennial plants 3 to 6 inches (8-15 cm) from the bulbs. As the foliage dies back, the perennials will grow, effectively screening the unsightly leaves.

Daffodil Care Post Bloom

Once the blooms fade, remove or deadhead them. This way the plant won’t have a chance to produce seed, which sucks up energy from the bulb that might otherwise be stored for the successive year of blooms.

Apply a balanced fertilizer after the blooms fade or as soon as you start deadheading. Balanced means a fertilizer that has equal parts nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.

After the foliage has died back, you can dig the bulbs up to move or store them, if you like. Once dug up, brush the soil off gently and allow it to dry in a cool, dark, airy area. Lay the bulbs out in a single layer with space between them.

Once dry, remove any offsets (bulblets) which will then become new plants the following year. Discard any damaged bulbs. Store the dried bulbs again in a cool, dark, dry location until planting time in the fall.

In many gardens, daffodils serve as an unofficial harbinger of spring. As their tough green leaves begin to push through the soil in late winter, growers delight in knowing that it is only a matter of time before warmer weather is on the way.

Traditionally, these bright yellow blooms can be spotted growing along roadways and near old or abandoned farmsteads. Daffodil bulbs are equally at home in modern landscapes. In recent years, newer hybrids have spawned renewed interest in the plant. Fortunately for those hoping to plant these delightful flower bulbs in their own yards, there are now more options than ever before. Many newer cultivars offer especially charming colors and exciting flower forms.

Different Types of Daffodils

Trumpet daffodils are among the most common types of narcissus. As one could imply, their namesake refers to the large center cup of the flower. Trumpet daffodils can vary in size, and are generally available in shades of white, yellow, and orange. Though these more traditional cultivars are sure to add substantial beauty to lawns and flower borders, avid growers may find themselves in search of other alternatives.

Plant breeders have taken great interest in the production of flowers that exhibit both desirable form and colors which have never been seen before. This, in addition to their exceptional vase life, has made these varieties ideal candidates for use in cut flower gardens. Split corona and double daffodils, specifically, continue to gain popularity for this very reason.

Unusual Varieties of Daffodil

Double bloom daffodils are those which open to display full flower heads. Rather than sporting a more conventional row of single petals, double narcissus produce masses of petals arranged tightly around the bloom’s cup and/or its outer petals. These large clusters of petals allow for each flower to assist in the creation of a showstopping spring garden. Colors of these cultivars can also vary, displaying characteristic solid tones or bi-color combinations.

Though many varieties of double daffodil produce larger blooms, some types do produce those which are smaller. Though smaller, it is not uncommon for these narcissus to yield multiple flowers per stem. Among the most prized varieties of double daffodil are ‘Delnashaugh,’ which is known for its delicate peachy pink color, and the pristine white ‘Bridal Crown.’

Split corona, or ruffled daffodils, are yet another type of highly ornamental narcissus. Much like others, split-corona daffodils can be identified by close observation of the flower’s cup shape. Rather than forming a trumpet or heavily petaled double center, these types have a characteristic center portion that appears as if it has been flattened or cut into multiple segments. Depending upon the cultivar, these segments may be somewhat raised or lay completely flat against the bloom’s outer petals.

This special flower form causes many of these varieties to have a very delicate or frilly appearance. Though the ruffled flowers are available in almost all traditional daffodil shades, varieties which display attractive pink and salmon tones are often most celebrated. Some exceptional varieties of ruffled daffodil include ‘Apricot Whirl,’ ‘Drama Queen,’ ‘Mallee,’ and ‘Pink Wonder.’

The plan was to plant daffodil bulbs in the fall but torrential rain followed by a cold snap has left the bulbs unplanted. The question now is how late can you plant daffodil bulbs? If you plant them in winter, even though it is late, do you end up with late blooming daffodils or daffodils that are not flowering? Read on to learn about daffodil bloom time and when to plant daffodils.

When to Plant Daffodils?

Daffodils are supposed to be planted in the fall. There are two reasons for this. The first is that spring flowering bulbs need a chilling period of about 10 to 13 weeks at temperatures below 40 degrees F. (4 C.) for blooming to commence. The other reason is the bulbs need time to grow roots that will support the growth of foliage and flowers. What happens if the above scenario occurs? Should you still plant the bulbs late and if so will they bloom in the spring?

How Late Can you Plant Daffodil Bulbs?

If fall is waning and you still haven’t gotten the daffodils in the ground you have two options. Option one is to go ahead and plant them as soon as you can even if you have to chip partially frozen soil up. If the garden soil isn’t an option plant the bulbs in a pot.

Will these late planted bulbs grow? Chances are good that they will, however, they may not bloom or if they do, the blossoms might be punky. In fact, the entire plant may be less than robust simply because it hasn’t had enough time to grow sufficient roots to support further growth of foliage and flowers.

The late planted daffodils may not flower at all but they may go on to flower beautifully the successive year after they’ve built up a root system and stored energy for flower production.

Either way it is still best to get the bulbs in soil since they will begin to lose some of their food reserves if left unplanted in a natural process of respiration.

Another Option for Unplanted Daffodil Bulbs

Yet another option for spring bulbs that haven’t made it into the ground in the fall is to hasten daffodil bloom time. Plant the bulbs inside and force them as container plantings. Remember though the bulbs still need to go through a chilling period of up to 13 weeks to initiate blooming.

Plant your bulbs in a light potting soil with the tips of the bulbs just above the soil. Moisten the bulbs and move the containers to an unheated garage or other cool, protected area or a refrigerator; somewhere that temperatures are 40 degrees F. (4 C.).

When the 10 to 13 weeks of chilling have elapsed, bring the potted bulbs into an area of about 65 to 70 degrees F. (18-21 C.). Blooms should begin forming within a week to two weeks.

Lastly, some gardeners have succeeded in planting forced bulbs outside after their blooms fade. The key here is to keep the foliage healthy by providing the plant with plenty of light and moderate fertilizer and water.

In this case even if the bulbs don’t bloom again, you’ve saved them from the compost bin and got to see at least one forced bloom.

Dwarf daffodil flowers, also known as miniature narcissus, look just like their full-size counterparts. Perfect for rock gardens, naturalized areas, and borders, these bulbs will give you flowers for years if you provide the right conditions and proper daffodil care.

What is Miniature Narcissus?

Miniature narcissus is just another name for a dwarf daffodil variety. Like regular-sized daffodils, they grow from fall planted bulbs and bloom in spring. The size of a dwarf daffodil depends on the variety, but generally they grow 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm.) tall with flowers that are just one and a half inches (4 cm.).

Some mini daffodil varieties to try include:

• Baby Moon: This variety produces cheerful yellow flowers that look like a classic daffodil.
• White Petticoat: The unique flowers on this variety are bell shaped with a star of thin white petals at the base.
• Hawera: Hawera is an heirloom variety with yellow flowers that hang from the stems like pendants.
• Tete Boucle: For a miniature, double bloom you can’t beat this deep yellow variety.
• Pipit: Pipit will give you multiple, pale yellow, delicate blooms per stem.
• Jetfire: Truly unique, this small daffodil produces yellow flowers with a corona that may be orange to red.
• Minnow: Minnow is a white daffodil with a bright yellow corona.

Dwarf Narcissus Care

These diminutive varieties of the popular daffodil require essentially the same care and conditions. They require well drained soil that is fertile. Amend your soil if necessary to drain and include organic matter.

Plant the bulbs in fall for spring blooms. During the growing season, water your mini daffodils only if they are not getting an inch (2.5 cm.) of rainwater per week. Use a low-nitrogen fertilizer on daffodils only after they are done flowering.

As flowers on each plant begin to wilt, deadhead them but leave the foliage in place. The stem and leaves must be left intact so the plant can continue to photosynthesize and collect nutrients. This allows them to come back the next year. After about six weeks the leaves and stem will start to die back, at which point you can remove them.

As with other types of bulbs, your dwarf narcissus will benefit from occasional divisions. Every few years, dig up bulbs after flowering. Separate a few and replant in other areas.

A classic early flower of spring, the uses for daffodils extend well beyond providing cheerful color after the winter months. While this may be the main reason most people plant daffodil bulbs, these pretty spring flowers can enrich your garden, improve pollination, and provide medical and health benefits.

What are Daffodils Good for Medicinally?

Daffodil flower uses are mostly limited to ornamentation. However, researchers are finding ways to extract compounds from daffodils with the potential of treating diseases. Some of the daffodil benefits to medicine may include treatments for Alzheimer’s disease and even cancer.

Traditionally, daffodil flowers and bulbs have been used for inducing vomiting. It is very risky to try this, however, as there are reported cases of deaths related to using the bulbs. Avoid using any part of a daffodil as medicine or food.

Benefits of Daffodils in the Garden

You may not be able to eat them or turn them into herbal medicine, but daffodils, like other early spring flowers, are actually beneficial to the garden in several ways. They come out of dormancy before many other plants, which means they are active and prepared to catch the water and nutrients that come with spring rains, which would otherwise be wasted.

When these flowers die back in spring, they add those nutrients back to the soil where other plants can use them.

These early spring flowers spread readily and colonize areas in patches. They spread their roots, which helps prevent or minimize erosion. The early daffodil blooms attract early pollinators too. This helps other plants, like your fruit trees, set more fruit.

If you grow fruit trees, you’ll want daffodils to increase pollination, but they can also keep grass at bay. Plant daffodil bulbs around the drip line of a fruit tree to keep grass from encroaching under the tree and competing with it for nutrients and water. The leaves may even deter deer.

Derived from the Dutch, 'affo dyle' or 'that which cometh early,' daffodils are often among the first signs of plant life each spring. While other perennial flowers remain dormant, daffodil bulbs begin to grow and flourish throughout periods of cold and even snow. While these hardy spring blooming bulbs are a favorite among gardeners, it is also quite common to see the beautiful yellow flowers spring up along roadsides, around abandoned buildings, and across open fields.

History of Daffodils

Many may recognize daffodils, or narcissus, by their namesake in relation to the well-known Greek tale - Narcissus and Echo. Narcissus, of course, being the young man who fell in love with his own reflection. Though an interesting anecdote, the actual history of daffodils is also one which is quite fascinating. Cultivated for centuries in gardens, daffodils were carried across Europe by Roman soldiers who believed the flower's sap to have healing medicinal properties. Today, we know that the opposite is actually true, as daffodils (and their sap) contain toxins that can be quite harmful to humans (as well as pets). This exact attribute makes the plant resistant to damage done by deer and other wildlife. Spreading and naturalizing easily, the beautiful flowers soon became very prominent in England, which resulted in further cultivation and the eventual spread to the eastern United States. There, the plants continued to establish themselves with (and without) the help of growers. The reliable and perennial nature of daffodil plants allowed for reproduction and spread for years to come, resulting in beautiful swaths of yellow and white daffodils.

Old-Fashioned Daffodils

Due to their popularity, hybrid daffodil varieties now come in a wide range of size, colors, and shapes. With the creation of literally thousands of hybrids and a dynamic grower following, it is easy to see why daffodils remain to be one of the most easily identified flowering plants today. Although plant breeding has made for the creation of truly beautiful cultivars, there are many heirloom daffodil varieties that are also worthy of praise and admiration. The naturalizing habit and strong fragrance of these old-fashioned daffodils have made them a favorite springtime flower for decades. Here are some great heirloom daffodil varieties well worth planting in your garden:

• 'Campernelle'
• 'Golden Spur'
• 'Grand Primo'
• 'Early Louisiana Jonquil'
• 'Maximus Trumpet Major'
• 'Moschatus'
• 'Pheasant's Eye'
• 'Twin Sisters'
• 'Van Sion'

What are poet’s daffodils? Also known as poeticus daffodils, poet’s narcissus, or sometimes pheasant’s eye daffodil, poet’s daffodils produce beautiful blooms with pure white petals. The blooms appear later in the season than most daffodil varieties. Read on for poeticus daffodil plant care.

About Poet’s Daffodil Bulbs

Poet’s daffodil plants (Narcissus poeticus) are native to Central Europe, but they have gained popularity with gardeners around the globe. The hardy plants thrive in nearly every corner of the United States, with the exception of extremely hot climates. Once planted, poet’s daffodil bulbs will provide beauty for many spring seasons to come. Each bloom, one to a stem, is centered with greenish yellow cups (coronas) marked with distinctive, mahogany-red rims. Poet’s daffodil flowers are so fragrant that the oil is a primary component of many perfumes.

Growing Poet’s Daffodils

Plant poet’s daffodil bulbs about two to four weeks before the ground freezes in fall. Nearly any type of moist, well-drained soil is fine, although a raised bed or sloped area is ideal. Fortunately, poet’s daffodil plants tolerate moist winter conditions better than most other varieties.

Improve the quality of the soil by digging in a few inches (8 cm.) of well-rotted manure or compost. Work the soil to a depth of 12 inches. (31 cm.)

Although poet’s daffodil plants can tolerate a little shade, they perform best in full sunlight.

Water poet’s daffodil blooms immediately after planting. Keep the bed moist during the growing season, and then decrease watering when the leaves begin to die down.

Apply balanced, all-purpose fertilizer if your poet’s daffodil plants aren’t blooming well. You can also use a liquid fish fertilizer mix with water. Pour the mixture on the soil around the bulbs. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizer.

Remove blooms and stems as soon as they die. However, don’t remove the leaves until they begin to die down and turn brown. Poet’s daffodil leaves absorb energy from sunlight. Removing the foliage too early will compromise the health of the bulbs and result in smaller blooms.

Daffodils are extremely popular flowering bulbs that are some of the earliest sources of color each spring. You really can’t go wrong when planting daffodil bulbs, but the sheer variety can get overwhelming. Keep reading to learn more about the different types of daffodils and how to tell them apart.

Daffodil Plant Facts

How many types of daffodils are there? Including hybrids, there are over 13,000 distinct daffodil varieties in existence. Those can be divided, however, into about a dozen different types of daffodils that are characterized by the size and shape of their petals (the outer part of the flower) and their coronas (the inner petals that are often fused into a single tube).

Popular Varieties of Daffodils

Trumpet varieties of daffodils are distinguished by a fused corona that is noticeably longer than the petals (like a trumpet). If the corona is shorter than the petals, it’s called a cup. Two varieties of daffodils are known as large-cupped and small-cupped, depending on the size compared to the petals. Double daffodils have either a double set of petals, a double corona, or both. Triandus has at least two flowers per stem. Cyclamineus has petals that flare back from the corona. Jonquilla has fragrant flowers that appear in clusters of one to five per stem. Tazetta has fragrant clusters of at least four and as many as 20 flowers per stem. Poeticus has one fragrant flower per stem with large white petals and a very small brightly colored corona. Bulbocodium has a very large trumpet with relatively tiny petals. Split corona has a corona that is not fused and appears as another ring of petals. Not all daffodils fall into these categories, and each category contains countless specimens and cross-category hybrids. As a rule, though, you can sort the different types of daffodils into these categories to get a better sense of what you’re looking for.

“Daffodils that come before the swallow dares and take the winds of March with beauty. Violets dim, but sweeter than the kids of Juno’s eye.” Shakespeare described a natural pair of spring woodland companion plants in A Winter’s Tale. He goes on to mention primrose, oxlips, and lilies, plants which grow naturally as daffodil companion plants.

Natural groups of flowers that bloom in succession or a complimentary way have inspired artists and poets for centuries. Companion planting allows caring for daffodils even in a small flower patch to be inspiring.

Companion Planting with Daffodils

Companion planting is planting different plants near each other to enhance each other's beauty, growth, and flavor or to protect each other from pests. Companion planting is also used to maximize space in the garden. Daffodils make great companion plants because they provide warm, sunny color in the spring, are easy to tuck in amongst already established plants, and deter pests. Daffodils bloom when many flowering shrubs and perennials are just waking from their winter dormancy. Their bulbs also contain a toxin that only a few insects can eat and deters deer, rabbits and other rodents. Squirrels may dig them up, but they don't eat them. Daffodils bloom in early spring for about six weeks, then their flowers die back, leaving green grassy foliage that the bulb drains energy from to prepare it for a long dormancy and next year's new growth. Daffodil foliage should only be cut back once it turns yellow and withers. Yellowing patches of daffodil foliage can look bad, so good companion plants for daffodils will fill in at this time, covering the unsightly mess. Due to their early spring color and pest deterrence, use daffodils as companion plants for flowers that bloom later or are garden pest’s favorite.

What to Plant with Daffodils

When companion planting with daffodils, you’ll want to include other spring-flowering plants that complement the yellow hues in daffodils. As Shakespeare mentioned, the dark green foliage and small but deep purple blooms of violets set against the grassy green foliage and bright yellow flowers of daffodils add an eye-catching contrast to an early spring landscape. Other bulbs that bloom beautifully next to daffodils include:

• Tulips
• Muscari
• Crocus
• Allium
• Hyacinth
• Virginia bluebells
• Iris

The following also make excellent spring blooming daffodil companion plants:

• Brunnera
• Hellebore
• Pasque flower
• Forget-me-not
• Rhododendron

For continuous yellow color patches in the garden use:

• Daylilies
• Black-eyed Susan
• Coreopsis
• Primrose
• Ligularia

Other later season blooming companion plants for daffodils include:

• Roses
• Peonies
• Amsonia
• Blue-eyed grass
• Goat’s beard
• Astilbe
• Hosta
• Coral bells
• Echinacea
• Catmint
• Lilies

When companion planting with daffodils for season long color, plant daffodils about 3-6 inches (8-15 cm.) from later blooming plants. The daffodils will provide early spring color, while later blooming plants are just leafing and budding, then the later blooming plant will cover up and deter from the die back of the daffodils in late spring.

Daffodil bulbs are extremely hardy bulbs that survive winters in the ground in all but the most punishing winters and hot summers. If you live north of USDA plant hardiness zone 3 or south of zone 7, it’s a good idea to store your daffodil bulbs during the off-season, a process also known as “curing.” Storing daffodil bulbs is also a good idea if you want to replant the daffodils in a different location for the next blooming season. Read on to learn about curing daffodil bulbs and daffodil bulb storage.

Digging and Storing Daffodil Bulbs

Remove the wilted blooms, then leave the daffodils alone until the green foliage dies down and turns brown. Don't rush; the green foliage absorbs sunlight, which provides energy that the bulbs will use later to create new blooms. Cut the wilted foliage at soil level, then lift the bulbs carefully from the ground. Dig several inches from the plant to avoid slicing into the bulbs. Use your hands to brush excess soil from the daffodil bulbs. Discard any bulbs that are soft, damaged or moldy. Place the bulbs in a warm, dry location for a few hours, or until any remaining mud has dried and the outer covering is dry and papery.

How to Cure Daffodil Bulbs

In the curing and storage of daffodil bulbs, brush off any dry soil, then place the dry bulbs in a ventilated bag, such as a mesh vegetable bag or a nylon stocking. Good locations for daffodil bulb storage include a garage or a cool, dry basement. Be sure the bulbs aren't exposed to dampness, freezing temperatures, excessive heat or direct sunlight. Let the bulbs cure until the next planting season, then inspect the bulbs and discard any that didn't survive the storage period. Replant the bulbs four to six weeks before the average first frost in your area.

Daffodils are familiar bloomers that light up the garden with bright color in early spring. They are surprisingly easy to grow and will last for many years with very minimal care. Although daffodils are amazingly easy to get along with, caring for daffodil bulbs after flowering is essential. Read on for tips on what you need to know about daffodil care after blooming.

Daffodil Care Post Bloom

Remove daffodil blooms as soon as they fade, otherwise, the bulbs will exert considerable energy attempting to create seeds. However, remove only the bloom and stem, not the leaves. This is the critical aspect of daffodil care after they bloom. Why do we leave the unsightly foliage in place? In simple terms, the leaves absorb energy from sunlight, and through the process of photosynthesis, the energy is converted into chemicals that produce sugar -- the food that keeps bulbs blooming year after year. If you remove the foliage too early, the bulbs will be stunted, which results in smaller and fewer blooms in the following year. This also explains why daffodils should be planted in bright sunlight. If your daffodils are planted in partial or full shade and they don't produce big, healthy blooms, you might want to dig them and move them to a sunnier location after the foliage dies down. Leave the foliage in place until it dies down and turns yellow. Usually, this takes about six weeks. If the appearance of the dying foliage is driving you crazy, don't braid the leaves or bunch them in rubber bands, which reduces the amount of sunlight available to the leaves. Instead, consider ways to camouflage the leaves. For example, plant perennial plants that will hide the dying foliage as they grow in spring.

Daffodil Plant Care

Water daffodils generously while the plant is blooming, but keep the soil relatively dry when the plants are dormant during the summer. Provide a handful of bulb fertilizer or any general-purpose fertilizer when shoots poke through the ground in early spring. Be sure to fertilize the soil around the daffodil plant, but keep the fertilizer off the foliage. Divide daffodils every three to five years, or whenever you notice that flowers are smaller in size or number. Divide the plant when the foliage is dying but still visible so you can see where to dig.

Daffodil leaves always turn yellow a few weeks after the plant blooms. This is normal and indicates that their job is finished for the season. The leaves have absorbed sunlight, which creates energy for the production of sugar that replenishes the bulb for the coming growing season. Daffodils with yellow leaves at any other time, however, may indicate a problem, often caused by disease. Read on to learn essentials of daffodil care.

Reasons for Daffodil Leaves Turning Yellow

If your daffodil leaves are turning yellow because of disease, then you may need to destroy the bulbs and start fresh with new, disease-resistant bulbs. Look for bulbs that have been pre-treated with fungicide. Below are the most common issues leading to yellowing daffodil foliage.

Basal Rot

Basal rot is a serious fungal disease that survives in the soil and becomes active when soil temperatures reach about 55 degrees F. (12 C.) in spring. The disease is becoming more widespread with high temperatures and increasingly warm summers. Basal rot is indicated by daffodil leaves turning yellow much earlier than expected. A bulb infected with the disease will be dried up or decayed and may display a brown or brownish purple rot that grows from the bottom of the bulb. Diseased bulbs should be removed and destroyed as soon as possible to prevent the spread of disease, then dig and treat remaining bulbs as soon as possible. Fungicide will not save diseased bulbs, but it may prevent the disease in nearby, healthy bulbs.

Leaf Scorch

If daffodil foliage turns yellow on the edges and the leaf tips display yellow or reddish brown lesions, the plant may have a fungal disease known as leaf scorch. Soon the lesions merge together and the yellowing leaves turn brown and die. This disease is most prominent when summer weather is mild and moist. If you notice spots on the leaf tips, you may be able to prevent the disease from spreading by trimming the affected plant parts. If the disease is severe, it's best to dig and discard the bulbs as soon as possible. It's also important to rake and discard leaves and plant debris in the area around the plant. To prevent the spread of this disease, never place diseased plant parts in your compost pile.

Yellow Stripe Virus

Yellowing leaves on daffodils may be the result of a yellow stripe virus, especially if the leaves and stalks display yellow streaks and spots soon after they emerge. Affected leaves may also be distorted. If you think your daffodils have yellow stripe virus, the best recourse is to destroy the infected bulbs. Control pests carefully; plant viruses are often spread by aphids or nematodes that live in the soil.

Root Rot

Root rot is a common reason for stunted, withered, or yellow daffodil leaves. This fungal disease is more common on bulbs that have been in place for several years. This disease doesn't affect the bulbs and is usually not deadly. It is often caused by planting too deeply or in wet, poorly drained soil. Typically, digging up and transplanting your daffodils elsewhere or improving drainage in the area will help with this.

Daffodils are cheerful harbingers of early spring and, usually, they bloom dependably for many years. However, sometimes problems arise and, unfortunately, there are no daffodils after planting. If your flower bulbs are not growing, put on your detective hat and do a little troubleshooting. Most problems are easy to fix.

Daffodil Flower Bulbs Not Growing

If your daffodil bulbs did not come up, there are a number of things to consider.

• Did you plant the bulbs upside-down? Daffodil bulbs should be planted with the pointy side up.
• Did you plant too late in the season? The best time for planting daffodil bulbs is fall, between September and Thanksgiving. If you forgot to plant, you can put the bulbs in the ground later, but you probably won't see much growth the first year.
• Did you plant the bulbs too deeply (or not deep enough)? As a general rule, bulbs should be planted at a depth about three times their height. This means that daffodils should be about 6 inches (15 cm.) deep. If you live in a cold climate, be sure the tops of the bulbs are protected by at least 3 inches (8 cm.) of soil.
• Did you remove the foliage too soon after last year's blooming season? You can cut the bare flower stalks, but always leave the foliage in place until it turns yellow. Through the process of photosynthesis, the bulbs convert energy from the sun into food required to sustain the bulbs for the next growing season.
• Are your bulbs old or overcrowded? If so, this can be a reason for daffodils not coming up. This problem is usually easily remedied by digging and dividing the bulbs after the foliage begins to turn die down and yellow.
• Do you have chipmunks or other rodents? The little rascals love bulbs, and while most don't typically find daffodils' bitter taste that palatable, they may still on occasion dig them up if there's nothing else available. If this is the case, you can cover the planting area with wide mesh chicken wire. You can also build square boxes from the wire and plant the bulbs in the wire box.
• Does your soil drain well? The bulbs will rot in soggy, muddy soil. Daffodils usually don't need supplemental irrigation, but if spring is unseasonably hot and dry, the bulbs will benefit from a deep watering once every week.
• Are the bulbs planted in a sunny location? Bulbs need at least six hours of sunlight per day.
• Are you over (or under) fertilizing your daffodils? As a general rule, a single application of a good quality bulb fertilizer in autumn is plenty.

Now that you know the most common reasons for daffodil flowers not coming up, you can fix the problem and ensure future growth of your daffodil bulbs.

Daffodil plants, when properly cared for, multiply in number. Most varieties perennialize and over the years will fill in a large area with their sunny spring blooms. That’s why learning how and when to divide daffodils is a worthwhile endeavor. You can move divided plants to other parts of the garden to spread their sunny spring color or share some of your favorite bulbs with friends, family, or neighbors.

Splitting daffodil bulbs is part of good daffodil care and can play an important role in the growth and the revitalization of established plants. Let’s explore how and when to divide daffodils, and take a look at post-transplant care to ensure your bulbs keep coming back for years to come.

Do You Need to Divide Daffodils?

Daffodil bulbs, when planted in large numbers, are likely to flourish season after season. However, their growth and ability to naturalize and produce bulbs varies greatly by type.

While some daffodil varieties are able to grow for decades, multiplying slowly over time, others are much more likely to spread. The spreading ability of naturalizing or perennializing bulbs greatly impacts the need and frequency for dividing and transplanting.

Though daffodils can quickly fill beds with color, overcrowded plants will decrease in flower production over time. This makes dividing and transplanting daffodils important for good blooming and maintaining plant health.

Only divide and transplant healthy, established daffodils. Daffodils that aren’t blooming because they're too young or not healthy do not tolerate transplanting well. You can sometimes get bulbs to recover in a year or so and the blooms will gradually improve, though this process requires some patience.

When to Divide Daffodils

Determining when to move daffodils depends on a variety of factors. As a rule, dividing and transplanting daffodils every three to five years is sufficient to keep plants healthy. Once you dig up the bulbs and spread them out, they often cover twice as much area as the original number with two or three times as many bulbs as were originally planted.

What time of year is best to divide daffodil bulbs? Though you can technically move plants anytime, it’s best to do so while plants are dormant. This helps prevent undue stress and results in the best chance of success.

The best time is when the foliage has begun to die back, but is not completely gone. Leaving foliage feeds the plant and ensures healthy bulbs with plenty of stored sugar for the next season's growth.

Summer is generally considered ideal, as plants have already started to die back naturally. It is also possible to lift and divide daffodils in the fall, but trying to find bulbs that have completely died back can prove difficult.

How to Divide Daffodils

A large shovel is the best tool for dividing daffodils. Dig around plants and lift the clump gently. The idea is to not cut into the bulbs, which can invite rot and mildew.

Once you have lifted the clump, brush and shake off the excess dirt. Pull apart the bulbs. They should separate easily. Any little bulbs still clinging to the parent bulb should be allowed to mature and separate naturally, so don't force them apart. Discard any that are diseased or damaged.

How & When to Transplant Daffodils

You can plant divided daffodil bulbs immediately or store them for the summer and transplant in fall. If the leaves are still healthy after dividing, leave them to continue gathering solar energy. If foliage is dead, cut back daffodil leaves before transplanting bulbs.

An easy way to remember proper bulb planting depth is that you plant bulbs twice as deep as they are tall. Space daffodil bulbs at least 6 inches (15 cm) apart. Water divided daffodils after transplanting. This helps promote root development through summer and into fall.

Plants have already gathered and stored energy in their bulbs for the current growing season, so fertilizing daffodils is not necessary at this time. You can give plants a light layer of mulch to help them conserve moisture and protect them from heaving through the winter.

Storing Divided Daffodil Bulbs

Many gardeners dividing daffodils in summer choose to store their bulbs before planting. To do so first clean, dry, and cure daffodil bulbs.

Remove any excess soil with dry hands. Wetting or rinsing bulbs can encourage mold, so avoid cleaning them off with water. Lay divided bulbs across a newspaper, drying rack, or screen to cure.

Pack dried bulbs into paper bags or boxes, allowing for good air circulation. Store bulbs in a cool, dry, dark place throughout the duration of summer. A garage is a perfect spot. When fall arrives, plant your divided daffodil bulbs.

Frequently Asked Questions

In most gardens, daffodils reproduce from bulbs, coming up year after year. The thought of growing them from seed may seem a bit unusual, but you can do it if you've got the time and patience. Growing daffodil seeds is a very simple proposition, but turning the seed into a blooming plant can take five years or more. Learn how to propagate daffodil from seed after collecting the seeds from your garden.

Daffodil Seed Pods

Daffodil seed cultivation is a simple process, mostly requiring patience. Once the bees have pollinated your daffodil flowers, a seedpod will grow at the base of the bloom. Don't deadhead your prettiest flowers; instead, tie a piece of string around each stem to mark it for later in the season. 

In the fall when the plants are brown and brittle, the daffodil seed pods at the end of the stems hold the seeds. Shake the stems, and if you hear dried seeds rattling around inside, they're ready for harvest. 

Snap off the pods and hold them over an envelope. Shake the pods, squeezing them lightly, to allow the seeds to drop out of the pods and into the envelope.

How to Propagate Daffodil from Seed

Young daffodil plants must grow indoors for at least the first year, so knowing when to plant daffodil seeds is more a matter of when you have the time. Begin with a large tray or pot filled with fresh potting soil. Plant the seeds about 2 inches apart (5 cm.), and cover them with ½ inch (1.25 cm.) of soil. 

Place the pot where it gets at least half a day of direct sunlight, and keep it in a warm spot. Keep the potting soil moist by misting it each day. The seeds may take weeks to sprout and will look like little blades of grass or small onion sprouts when they first come up. 

Grow the daffodil plants until the bulblets underground start to grow big enough to almost touch, then dig them up and replant them in larger homes. Dig up and replant the bulbs each time they grow large enough. It will take two to five years before you see the first bloom from your seed-grown daffodils.

We all wait for it -- those first brilliant green shoots peeking out of the still chilly, somewhat soggy soil to announce the beginning of spring. By the time the first sunny golden flowers appear, our hearts and minds are lifted by the spectacular display of daffodils in bloom.

Perennial bulbs like daffodils will naturalize and produce flowers for many years. Daffodil fertilizer can enhance the perfect trumpet-shaped forms and colors of these cheery flowers. Here are some essentials of daffodil care, such as when to fertilize daffodils and what to feed daffodil bulbs for year after year of uplifting spring color.

When to Fertilize Daffodils

Timing is everything, and feeding bulbs is no exception. The bulbs mostly fend for themselves by storing energy gathered the previous season in the bulb. The foliage should remain after the blooms are gone so they can collect carbohydrates synthesized from solar rays in the photosynthetic process.

Potted bulbs and those in areas with heavy nutrient competition, such as plants growing under trees, will benefit from supplemental feeding. Fertilizing daffodil plants that are established in early spring spurs new spring growth. Newly planted bulbs should be fertilized at planting in fall.

What to Feed Daffodil Bulbs

Feeding bulbs at planting gives them a good start for their spring debut. Use a bulb food or bone meal and work it into the soil a couple of inches (5 cm.) at the bottom of the hole you dug for installation. Mix it in well and then plant the bulb. Mature daffodils respond well to early spring fertilizer.

Use a gentle liquid fish emulsion fertilizer mixed in water for fertilizing daffodil plants and pour it around the bulb zone. You can also scratch a small amount of 5-10-5 granular food into the soil if spring rains will help wash it down into the root area.

How to Fertilize Daffodils

Now that we know the “when” and “what” we can turn our attention to the “how.” How to fertilize daffodils depends on whether they are potted, newly planted or in the ground. Granular formulas should only be used if you intend to water or if there is plenty of rain.

They don't work into the soil without water as a conduit, and too little water may leach a strong mixture of food that can burn the bulbs. Newly planted bulbs should not be laid into a bed of fertilizer for the same reason. Mix it into the soil below the bulb so that once roots grow they can begin to utilize the food.

If you are planning a spring bulb display, prepare the bed by working in daffodil fertilizer at a rate of 2 pounds per 1,000 square feet (0.9 kg. per 93 square m.) of soil.

Aging plots of daffodils will expand and multiply as time goes by. This is a process called naturalization. Daffodil naturalizing occurs without intervention and produces numerous bulbets which may be divided off the parent plant or left in ground to produce a new plant. Pick a good sized bed when naturalizing daffodils and over time you will have a sea of golden trumpet shaped blooms.

How to Naturalize Daffodil Bulbs

The proper soil is key to naturalizing daffodils. The bulbs do not perform well in heavy clay soils or in beds without excellent drainage. Amend the bed with leaf litter, compost, perlite or even a bit of sand to achieve good porosity and drainage. If the soil is just too soggy, build a raised bed for daffodil naturalizing. The soil should hold just enough moisture to keep the roots lightly moist but prevent a constant boggy mess around the bulbs which can cause rot. Naturalized planting of daffodils creates a wild woodsy sea of yellow blooms and guarantees a steady supply of flowers annually.

Planting for Daffodil Naturalizing

Once garden soil is the proper texture, the depth and spacing of the bulbs is important for the best effect. Daffodils look best in clumps rather than rows. Install the bulbs 6 inches (15 cm.) down in prepared holes. Space them three times the width of the bulb in groups of at least five. There is some discrepancy among gardeners as to whether you should put fertilizer in the hole. Most seem to agree that fertilizing the bed itself while amending is the best method. Mix in superphosphate prior to planting the flower bulbs. At the first sign of green, feed with a balanced liquid or granular fertilizer. Keep the bulbs lightly moist just after installation when they are forming roots. Cover with a light mulch over winter to protect the new roots and keep the bulbs from freezing and splitting.

Naturalized Planting of Daffodils with Other Bulbs

The blooms on daffodils die back long before the foliage. Foliage should remain until it is spent to help give energy to the bulb, which it stores for the next year's production of flowers. The leaves can look ragged and ugly in the garden, but this is easy to cover up with other bloomers. Plant annual flowers, vegetables or shallow rooted perennials in the same bed to hide the old foliage as it does its good work. Some gardeners bundle the leaves with rubber bands to keep them from looking unattractive. This prevents the leaves from getting maximum sunshine and collecting solar energy.

Splitting Bulbets

The smaller bulbs that form off the parent structure can be divided away from the main bulb. They often form smaller, less vigorous plants, however. If you wish to transplant some of the daffodil plants to another bed after they have naturalized, dig up the parent plant and pull out the entire cluster. Do this in fall after the foliage is completely spent and plant in a prepared bed or pot to start a new crop of the cheery flowers. When you know how to naturalize daffodils, you will have a steady supply of the bulbs to share and spread in your garden.

There are new cultivars of daffodils introduced to eager gardeners every year. Multiple colors, double petals, bigger and better or smaller and cuter; the list is endless. These are often marketed under the name Narcissus, which is the scientific name for this group of plants. 

Among similar looking plants, you will also find references to jonquils. What is the difference between daffodil, jonquil, and Narcissus? Some of the answers depend on the region, while the rest of the answer is divided by cultivars and scientific classification.

Narcissus Plant Info

Daffodils all fall under the botanical name, Narcissus. Narcissus also often refers to the smaller variety of daffodils. Regionally, jonquils may be called daffodils, but this is botanically incorrect. There are 13 divisions of daffodils, or Narcissus. Each division has special classifications and specific Narcissus plant info that delineates which class each species falls into. 

Is jonquil a Narcissus? Yes. Daffodil bulbs are Narcissus and jonquils are Narcissus. The overall scientific name is Narcissus, and it covers over 13,000 hybrids of both daffodil bulbs and jonquils.

The Difference Between Daffodil, Jonquil, and Narcissus

We now know that jonquils and daffodils are classed as Narcissus. Daffodil bulbs are generally barely scented while jonquils are very perfumed. When answering the question, "is jonquil a Narcissus," we should consult the Daffodil Society. The two words are synonymous but do not make the jonquil a daffodil. 

Jonquils are in Class 7 and 13 and have numerous, yellow scented blooms with rounded foliage. It is a small group of Narcissus and confined to just one group. Jonquils tend to grow in southern regions and USDA zones above 8. You can also grow daffodils in these areas, but jonquils are predominant and hardier in warmer regions.

Characteristics of Daffodils vs. Jonquils

There are 200 species of daffodil and over 25,000 cultivars, with more arriving annually. Class 7 holds the hybrids of jonquil, while Class 13 bears the species. The major difference between daffodils vs. jonquils would be the leaves. Jonquils have slender leaves that round on the tips while daffodils sport slim, sword tipped foliage. Jonquil stems are hollow and usually shorter than daffodil varieties. 

They tend to have clusters of flowers on the stems and a delicate fragrance. In flower shape and hue, they are very similar to daffodil bulbs and most gardeners simply don't differentiate. The length of the corolla is smaller in jonquils than daffodils. Additionally, jonquils only grow in yellow hues while daffodils may be found in white, peach, pink, and a variety of other colors. 

The cultivation and planting of both bulbs are the same and the presentation of a golden sea of flowers is just as pleasing no matter which species you choose.

To a gardener, few things are as dreary as the long, icy month of February. One of the best ways to brighten your home during cold months is by forcing bright bulbs such as daffodils, so that they bloom in the dead of winter. Once the flowering ends and spring begins to arrive, transplanting container-grown daffodils will probably be your next thought. Planting forced daffodils in the garden is possible, but there are some special techniques and precautions you should be aware of first.

Transplanting Container Grown Daffodils

Forcing bulbs like daffodils to bloom out of season is relatively easy, although it takes quite a bit of time, and it takes a lot out of a bulb. Many gardeners consider these bulbs spent and simply discard them. If you're frugal and want to try transplanting spring daffodils, keep in mind that they probably won't have the energy to flower for two or three years. There are things you can do, however, to help the plant get ready and increase the odds of getting new daffodil flowers after only one year.

How to Transplant Daffodils to the Garden

Treat the forced daffodil bulbs like prized plants in the garden. The better conditions you give the daffodils, the more energy they'll be able to produce for growing a large, strong bulb. Moving daffodils after flowering will be more successful if you prepare them during the early spring months. Clip off the blooms when they begin to wither and die. This will eliminate energy from being diverted into possible seed production. Put the potted plants in a cool and sunny location and keep the soil moist, but not soggy, at all times. Grow the leaves as a houseplant for as long as they stay green. When the leaves dry out and die off, dig up the bulbs and store them in a paper bag in a cool, dark place until fall. If you don't have any place to store the bulbs, plant them directly in the garden. Plant them about 8 inches (20.5 cm.) deep and keep the ground moist to encourage strong root production. Once you learn how to transplant daffodils into the garden, you can transfer this knowledge to any forced bulb you may receive as a gift. Amaryllis, crocus, and tulips are popular gifts between the Christmas holidays and early spring, and transplanting all of these bulbs outdoors will eventually increase your perennial garden with very little extra effort.

Daffodils are usually one of the most reliable and cheerful of the signals for spring. Their bright yellow cup-and-saucer blooms brighten up the yard and promise warmer weather to come. If your daffodil buds wither and turn brown without ever blooming, you've been a victim of bud blast. Weather, nutrition, and the way you treat the plant can cause bud blast in daffodils, but most conditions are ones you can remedy for next year. Learn what causes daffodil buds not to open and how to prevent this condition from happening.

What Causes Daffodil Buds Not to Open

What is daffodil bud blast? When your daffodil plants look like they're growing normally, until it's time for the buds to bloom, and then your daffodil buds don't open, bud blast has likely gotten to them. Instead of opening up, the daffodil buds wither and brown, never turning into a flower. You're left with a collection of stems with small, brown buds on the ends. Among the causes for bud blast in daffodils: Nutrition - Fertilizer with too much nitrogen tends to encourage healthy plant and leaf production and cuts down on daffodil blooms. Weather - Extreme hot or cold weather after a daffodil blooms can cause bud blast in the next year's batch of flowers. Planting depth - Daffodil bulbs that are planted in shallow holes are more prone to bud blast. Cutting foliage - Daffodils need time to gather energy in their bulbs after blooming is finished. Cutting off spent flowers or leaves too soon can cause bud blast the next year.

How to Prevent Daffodil Bud Blast

The way you treat your plants this year has a direct effect on your plants where daffodil buds don't open next year. Allow the spent flowers to stay on the stem until they are completely brown and withered, then only clip back the stem itself. Allow the leaves to yellow and brown on their own instead of cutting them off. Protect blooming plants from extreme weather with a thick layer of mulch if you expect a late frost and some improvised shade for extra-hot spring days. Dig up daffodil bulbs in the summer once the leaves have completely died and store them in a cool spot. Replant the bulbs in the fall by choosing a spot with full sun and planting them from 6 to 9 inches (15 to 23 cm.) deep. Feed the bulbs with a low-nitrogen fertilizer and keep the soil moist to encourage root production throughout the fall.

Late in winter we expect the perky blooms of daffodils to open and assure us spring is on the way. Occasionally someone says, “My daffodils are not flowering this year." This happens for various reasons. Poor blooms on daffodils may be due to improper daffodil care – either mistreatment of foliage the previous year or because bulbs are too crowded and daffodils won't bloom.

Reasons Why Daffodils Won't Bloom

Removing or folding leaves

Removing the foliage too soon after flowering last year can contribute to why daffodils didn't bloom this year. Nutrients must be stored for daffodil blooms. These nutrients develop in the foliage after flowers bloom. Cutting down or folding the leaves before they have yellowed and started to deteriorate is a reason for poor blooms on daffodils. 

Planted too late

Bulbs that were planted too late in autumn or small bulbs may be the reason why daffodils didn't bloom. These situations may have produced small foliage and poor blooms on daffodils. Check to make sure bulbs are still there and have not rotted or been stolen by a carousing critter. If the bulbs are there and still plump and healthy, they will continue to grow and flower in the next season. Fertilize appropriately or work in organic material for blooms next season. 

Too little sunlight

Another example of why daffodils didn't bloom can be an issue of sunlight. Many flowering blooms need six to eight hours of full sunlight to complete the blooming process. If the area in which bulbs are planted is too shady, this can be why daffodils won't bloom. 

Too much nitrogen

Too much nitrogen fertilizer can explain why daffodils didn't bloom. If the question is why don't my daffodils have flowers, nitrogen may be the culprit. Often nitrogen fertilizer, if overused, creates lush foliage and little in the way of blooms. Organic matter that is rich in nitrogen can have the same effect unless worked into the soil gradually. To correct an issue of poor blooms on daffodils and other bulbs, use fertilizer with a higher middle number (phosphorus), such as 10/20/20 or 0/10/10, prior to the anticipated time of flowering.

Crowded bulbs

Poor blooms on daffodils that have bloomed profusely in years past usually indicate bulbs that are crowded and need division. These may be dug up and separated in spring following bloom time or in autumn. Replant in groupings, allowing further room for growth. By following these guidelines, you will never again have to ask, “why don't my daffodils have flowers?”

Dead or missing bulbs

If bulbs are no longer in the area where they were planted or are shriveled, you have discovered why your daffodils are not flowering. Examine the site's drainage, which can cause bulbs to rot. If bulbs have been stolen by wildlife, you will likely notice that the soil has been disturbed or that other neighboring plants have been damaged.

Daffodils are among the most popular spring blooming bulbs grown in the garden. But, when the flower is gone, when is the right time to remove daffodil leaves? If you are wondering, “When do I prune daffodils,” you will find the answer below.

When to Cut Back Daffodils

Daffodil leaves should not be cut back until after they have turned yellow. This is an essential part of daffodil care. Daffodils use their leaves to create energy, which is then used to create next year's flower. If you cut back daffodils before the leaves have turned yellow, the daffodil bulb will not produce a flower next year.

When Do I Prune Daffodil Flowers?

While daffodil leaves must be left on the plant, daffodil flowers can be cut off of the plant, if you want. Spent flowers will not hurt the plant, but they do look unsightly. Removing spent flowers is optional, but if a seedpod forms, it may be best to remove it.

Pruning Daffodil Seedpods

Daffodils can be grown from seed, but they may take years to produce blooms when grown from seed. Therefore, it is best to not allow daffodils to produce seeds (they can be propagated from bulb divisions). If a flower stalk produces a seedpod, prune the seedpod off. This will allow the daffodil plant to focus its energy into producing a flower for next year.

Hiding Daffodil Leaves

Some gardeners find daffodil leaves to be a bit messy looking after the flowers are gone. If this is the case, you can do some strategic planting to hide the daffodil leaves until they die. Growing plants in front of or with daffodils that grow and bloom slightly later will help hide the leaves. Some camouflage candidates include:

• Peonies
• Daylilies
• Lupines
• Hostas

Forcing daffodils into bloom is an excellent way to help stave off mid-winter blues. Seeing a bright yellow daffodil indoors while the daffodils outside are still fast asleep under snow is enough to bring a smile to anyone's face. Indoor daffodil care isn't difficult. Let's look at how you can force daffodils into bloom inside.

Growing Daffodils in Water or Soil

First, choose which growing medium you will use to grow a daffodil indoors. Your choices are water or soil. If you choose water, you will need to get a forcing glass, which is a cup specially designed to hold the daffodil bulb upright over water. Each forcing glass will hold one daffodil. This is an excellent choice if you only want to grow a few daffodils to brighten up a dark corner. Forcing daffodils in soil is more common and just as satisfying. You will need a shallow dish and some indoor potting soil. Use a dish that is big enough to hold all the bulbs you intend to grow and is as deep as the daffodils are tall. The dish should also have drainage holes. If it does not, add a thin layer of gravel to the bottom of the dish.

Choosing Daffodil Bulbs

Next, choose the bulbs you will use to force daffodils. Look for plump bulbs with skin that is not loose. It's okay if the bulb has sprouted some, just be careful that you do not damage the sprout.

Planting the Daffodil Indoors

If growing in water, fill the forcing glass with plain water and set the bulb on top of the glass. If growing in soil, cover the bottom of the dish with soil, high enough so that the top third of the bulb will stick up over the top of the dish when they are planted. Now, place the daffodil bulbs on the soil. They can be placed as tight as side by side. Cover the bulbs with additional soil, leaving the top third of the bulb above the soil. Water the soil, but do not drown the bulbs.

Care of Your Daffodil Indoors

If growing daffodils in water, once your daffodil bulbs have some roots, add 1 teaspoon of vodka. The vodka will stunt the growth of the stem, so that the bulb will be less likely to fall over. It will not affect the blossom at all. If you are growing daffodils in soil, water as needed. When forcing daffodils, fertilizing is not necessary. The bulb has everything it needs inside it to create a lovely flower, so you do not need to fertilize. Taking the time to force daffodils in your home can help make the long winter seem much shorter. Forcing daffodils is both easy and fun.