Woohoo! The very first dahlia blooms are freshly out and damn, aren’t they gorgeous? But July is not the time to sit back, relax and enjoy the display. July is a hard-working month for dahlia plants, and how well you look after them now determines how many flowers you get, how fabulously big they grow, and how long into fall the display lasts.

In July, dahlias are busy growing stems, leaves, flowers and buds, which uses up a heap of energy and moisture. They’re also dealing with long, hot days – and while all that sunshine fuels growth, high temperatures stress the plants. There’s no telling how long the current heatwave will last for, making these vital July gardening jobs to keep dahlias happy and healthy all the more important.

Why? Because while your dahlia plants will probably go ahead and flower for the next month or so, even with minimal care, they’ll quickly give up blooming once the first flush is over. Nurture your plants in July, however, and they’ll continue flowering into fall with far bigger, more beautiful blooms. Thanks to this summer’s heat, many dahlia varieties are already flowering with deeper, more intense colors this year. So, take care of these vital gardening jobs in July and this could be your most spectacular dahlia display, ever. Here's what to do with dahlias in July…

1. Water Deeply

When it comes to what dahlias need in July, moisture tops the list. While it’s important not to overwater newly planted tubers as they can easily rot, now your plants are established they need plenty of moisture. In the peak of summer, if there’s no rainfall, you need to be watering dahlias growing in the ground around three times a week. Container-grown dahlias are likely to need watering daily or, in extreme temperatures, twice a day.

Water the soil at the base of the plants, rather than the plants themselves, to prevent fungal issues. Opt to irrigate first thing in the morning and you'll reduce evaporation so more of that precious moisture reaches the roots. If your mulch is thinning by midsummer, you may also want to consider re-mulching with an organic mulch such as Miracle-Gro All Natural Mulch, available from Walmart. It'll lock that moisture in the ground and keep those tubers a little cooler too.

2. Fertilize Regularly

As soon as you spot flowerbuds, or if your plant is already actively flowering, you should be feeding dahlias once every 7-14 days. A soluble feed gives plants an instant boost, which makes it far easier to control the nutrient supply. Because here’s the thing that most home-growers miss: if a flowering plant is fertilized in a heatwave, it's going to need more moisture to facilitate the extra growth the feed fuels. If you provide that moisture, great. But if you don’t, the plant is put under a lot of unnecessary stress.

In the current heatwave conditions, with plenty of states already under a hosepipe ban, it’s vital to consider this before fertilizing. It’s best to reduce fertilizing in extreme temperatures, and using a soluble feed makes it easy to adjust feeding levels week by week. And remember, while you should never under-dilute plant food, you can absolutely over-dilute it to provide a more gentle nutrient boost.

To fuel abundant flowers at this time of the year, you need a feed that’s high in potassium. Use all-round flower food such as Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Bloom Booster, available from Lowe's, or a specialized dahlia feed such as TPS Plant Food Dahlia Fertilizer, available from Amazon. If you’re growing tomatoes and already have a liquid tomato fertilizer such as Espoma Organic Tomato!, also available from Amazon, you can use that, too – it’s also high in potassium and will do a similar job.

3. Deadhead Fading Flowers

Snipping off fading blooms will keep your dahlia focused on growing more flowers rather than producing seed. Deadheading regularly, every few days, is an important part of July dahlia care and makes a huge difference to how many blooms a plant will produce. So, if you're wondering how to get more dahlia flowers, don't skip this task: the quicker you remove those spent blooms once the petals start to fade, the more energy you'll redirect.

Use a pair of bypass pruning shears such as these from Lowe's to deadhead dahlias and, if you haven’t sharpened yours in a while, get a razor-edge on those blades with a sharpener such as this $7 tool from Amazon. Trace the stem of the faded flower down and cut just above the next bud, pair of leaves or main stem. This is far easier for the plant to deal with than cutting higher and leaving a bare stem end that could rot.

The trickiest part of deadheading dahlias is knowing what’s a fully spent bloom and what’s a new bud, because they can both look very similar – and you seriously don't want to remove all the flowers yet to come! It's easy to tell the difference once you know how, though.

New buds are round, tight, feel firm when you squeeze them and may have a glimmer of color at their centre, like this:

Spent flowers are more pointed and cone-shaped, feel slightly squishy when you squeeze them, may have brown tones, and look like this:

4. Make Quick Earwig Traps

Midsummer is prime earwig season and these critters are well known for chewing holes in dahlia foliage and ruining blooms. You probably won’t spot the earwigs themselves as they’re nocturnal, but the tell-tale signs are uneven holes or ragged edges on leaves, and shredded buds. You might also see dark earwig poop, known as frass, on the leaves.

If you don't mind this damage or it's minimal, don't worry about it – earwigs are useful bugs to have in your garden ecosystem as they eat aphids, mites and juvenile snails. If you want to curtail the damage, however, it’s simple to catch the culprits with homemade earwig traps.

Stuff dampened straw or dried grass into small plant pots or plastic cups and upend these on bamboo canes pushed into the ground around your dahlias (watch out for the tubers, though). Earwigs will crawl into these cozy, dark spaces after feeding so, in the morning, it’s a simple task to rehome them, and you don't have to move them far. Though they have wings, earwigs rarely travel more than 100 feet.

5. Prune Dahlias For Huge Blooms

If you fancy growing a few fabulously big dinnerplate dahlias, then there’s an extra job to be done – but it’s by no means an essential part of summer dahlia care. Disbudding involves removing sidebuds on a stem to force the plant into putting all its energy into growing the central flower. And the results can be incredible! Disbudding dahlias also brings longer stems for cut flowers.

You’ll get far fewer blooms overall if you disbud but, if you want to grow a few showstopper cut flowers for a special occasion, or just try something different with your dahlias this year, it’s worth it. You don’t need to disbud all the stems on an established plant, so why not try it with one or two stems and leave the rest?

Disbudding is a quick and easy job. Look at a dahlia stem and you’ll typically see it has a larger central bud and some side buds either side. Simply pinch or snap off all the side buds – do this in early morning when the plant is fully hydrated and the rigid stems snap far more easily.

Give your dahlia the care it needs in July, and it will reward you by flowering abundantly all through summer and fall, till the first frost. And that’s a heck of a lot of beautiful blooms for your efforts!

Next up in the gardening priority list is to prep your peonies for bigger flowers next year. This July gardening job is quick and easy to do but is another that has a huge impact on the quality of blooms you'll enjoy.

By June, dahlias are shifting from quiet tubers into serious growth, with plenty of foliage above ground and the first flower buds not far behind. This is the stretch when the plant builds the structure it will carry all season, from strong stems to a full canopy, while the root system continues filling out beneath the soil. A few well-timed jobs now can shape how the rest of the summer goes.

Skip this work and the plants will still grow – just messier, and with fewer blooms to show for it. Most of the dahlia care needed at this point is light work: a pinch here, a feed there, and nothing that eats up a whole afternoon. What matters most in June is timing, since a job done a couple of weeks late can cost you flowers further down the line.

These tasks don't all need to be done on the same afternoon. Spread them across a couple of weekends, work with whatever the weather's handing you, and the plants take care of the rest.

1. Get the Supports In Before the Plants Need Them

Taller dahlia types can reach 4 to 5 feet (1.2–1.5m), and the stems, for all their thickness, snap surprisingly easily once a flower head catches the wind. Driving in a stake now, while the plant is still compact, keeps the roots undisturbed. Leave it until later, once the tuber has spread underground, and there’s a real chance of spearing straight through it.

Single-stem types do fine with a sturdy bamboo cane or metal rod; bushier plants prefer a ring or cage to lean into. Heavy-duty plant stakes from Amazon can hold up for a full season without bowing under the weight.

Whatever support you use, tie stems loosely with something soft and leave room for them to thicken – dahlia stems put on real girth as summer wears on, and twine cinched tight in June will be cutting in by August.

June Dahlia Essentials

2. Pinch out the Growing Tip

Once a plant reaches around 12 to 16 inches (30–40cm) and has three or four sets of leaves, snapping out the very top growing point encourages it to branch rather than shoot straight up. That means more side stems – and more stems usually means more flowers, even if each bloom is a little smaller.

It feels wrong to lop off healthy growth just as things are taking off. Do it anyway. A clean thumbnail is enough for soft growth, though a small pair of snips gives a tidier cut on thicker stems – Fiskars Micro Tip pruning snips stay sharp and earn their keep well beyond dahlia season. Think of it as redirecting the plant’s energy, not setting it back.

3. Water Deep, Not Often

Newly sprouted dahlias don’t ask for much, and too much water around a tuber that hasn’t filled out its roots can rot it outright. Once the foliage is up and the plant is clearly motoring, though, its thirst climbs fast. A deep soak two or three times a week, letting the top inch (2.5cm) of soil dry out between, beats a daily splash that never reaches the roots.

Water dahlias at the base rather than over the leaves to keep the foliage dry and cut back on the mildew that dahlias are prone to in muggy weather. A soaker hose on a timer takes the guesswork out, and this kind of soaker hose kit from Amazon snakes between plants and runs slowly enough to properly sink in. Morning is the better slot where possible – leaves then have all day to dry off whatever does land on them.

4. Switch the Feed Toward Flowers

Early on, a balanced feed, or even a slightly nitrogen-leaning one, helps build leaves and stems. As June rolls on and buds begin to form, the priority shifts. Lean too hard on nitrogen now, and you end up with a lush green plant that’s stingy with flowers – all leaf, not much show.

When fertilizing dahlias, what you want is a high-potash feed, the same kind sold for tomatoes. Something like this Epsoma Organic Tomato Fertilizer, diluted and applied every couple of weeks once buds appear, keeps things ticking along. Go easy, though – dahlias aren’t especially hungry, and overfeeding does more harm than skipping a week.

5. Stay Ahead of Slugs and Earwigs

Few things love a young dahlia shoot more than slugs. Soft new growth can be shredded overnight, sometimes right back to the stem, and a plant can lose a whole flush of leaves before anyone clocks the damage. Earwigs tend to turn up a little later, working on petals once the flowers open – irritating, if rarely fatal.

Heading out after dark with a flashlight and picking them off by hand is grim, but it works, and it can be weirdly satisfying. Beer traps sunk to soil level draw slugs in overnight, while an upturned pot stuffed with straw does the same for earwigs, which crawl in to hide by morning. This is a preventative habit, not a one-and-done job – stay on it through the soft-growth weeks, and the plants should outgrow the worst of it.

6. Mulch Around the Base

A layer of mulch around each plant does a lot of quiet work. It holds moisture in the soil through hot spells, keeps the roots cooler, and slows the weeds that would otherwise drink up water meant for your flowers. In a dry June, that can be the difference between watering every other day and watering twice a week.

Compost works well here, as do leaf mold or well-rotted bark. Spread it a couple of inches (5cm) thick, but pull it back an inch or so from the stems, since mulch packed tight against them traps damp and invites rot. One catch: slugs shelter under mulch, too, so in a wet year, it is a bit of a trade-off. Most seasons, though, the moisture you save comes out ahead.

Dahlias aren’t just eye candy. They’re super hungry plants with a knack for stealing the garden spotlight. Whether you’re new to the game or a seasoned pro, nailing the dahlia fertilizer routine is what lifts your patch from boring to marvelous. I’ve watched gardeners toss random mixes at them and wonder why they flop, so let’s dig into what could be going on. From soil prep to perfect timing, we’ve got the playbook to keep your dahlias thriving.

Every gardener faces their battles, and dahlias bring their share. Pests, tricky soils, and any other issue can be resolved with the correct dahlia care. With the right moves, you can skip the headaches and make your dahlias the envy of the block. Let’s get to work!

How Important Is It to Fertilize Dahlias?

Fertilizing dahlias isn’t just a nice thing to do. It’s mandatory if you want those bold blooms to steal the show. These plants crave nutrients, especially phosphorus for flowering and a touch of nitrogen for sturdy growth, but too much of the latter can backfire. Skip the feed, and you’re left with weak stems and puny flowers instead of the vibrant display you’re after. Think of it like fueling a racecar. Without the right fuel, it’s not crossing the finish line.

That said, it’s not about overloading them. Overdo it, and you’ll get lush leaves but few blooms, which misses the point entirely. In USDA zones like 8 or 9 where dahlias flourish, the need holds steady, but container growers need to stay sharp. Pots dry out quick, making consistent feeding key. A Burpee Organic Blood Meal from Amazon can give a gentle nitrogen nudge to start.

Do All Dahlias Have the Same Feeding Requirements?

Not every dahlia eats the same. You’ve got your dinnerplate types with massive blooms that guzzle more, and smaller bedding dahlias that a little less hungry. Each variety, whether it’s the flashy ‘Café au Lait’ or the classic ‘Bishop of Llandaff’, has its hunger level, shaped by size and bloom style.

Climate and setup shake things up too. In hotter USDA zones like 10, ease off nitrogen to avoid burning those tender tubers, while cooler zones like 3 might need a richer mix to compensate. Container dahlias? They’re thirstier for balanced feeds since nutrients leach out fast.

Organic Fertilizer Options for Dahlias

When it comes to the best fertilizer for dahlias, going organic can keep things natural and soil friendly. Compost is a champ, breaking down slow to feed those tubers steadily. Think kitchen scraps or yard waste worked into the bed. Bone meal’s another winner, packing phosphorus to amp up those blooms, and I’ve seen it transform gardens firsthand.

If you’re leaning chemical free, try fish emulsion for a liquid hit that dahlias love, especially in containers where quick uptake matters. Pair it with well-rotted manure for a balanced kick. A Down to Earth Organic Bone Meal like this one from Amazon is my pick for an easy, effective add-in. Just test your soil first, since overdoing it can still throw things off.

When and How to Fertilize Dahlias

Timing’s your best friend with dahlias. Kick off feeding when tubers sprout, about 4-6 weeks after planting, to build strong roots. Hit them again when buds form, typically late spring to early summer, and keep it going every 4-5 weeks through bloom season. June to September is the best time to feed.

How you apply it matters too. Sprinkle granular stuff like bone meal around the base, then water it in deep. For liquids, dilute and pour at the soil line, avoiding leaves to prevent scorch. Container dahlias need a half strength dose every couple weeks since pots drain fast.

Common Fertilizer Problems

Overfeeding

Overfeeding dahlias can turn your garden into a leafy mess, no kidding. Too much nitrogen, and you’ll get a jungle of stems with no flowers. I’ve seen it when folks overdo chemical mixes. In hot zones like USDA 9-11, this risk jumps, so go light.

Salt Buildup

Salt buildup’s another headache, especially in pots, messing with roots and drying soil out. Look for yellowing leaves or stunted growth as red flags to cut back. Even organic options can pile up if you don’t water well. Keep an eye out, and you’ll save your dahlias from a fertilizer flop.

Dahlia Fertilizer Aftercare

After feeding, don’t just walk away. Water those dahlias good to help nutrients sink in without stress. Mulch with straw or bark around the base to lock in moisture and shield roots, especially in the heat. I’ve seen it keep blooms steady.

Check plants weekly for signs. Lush growth is great, but wilting means tweak your feed. After dahlias have finished blooming, ease off to prep tubers for next year’s lift. Container dahlias need a water flush now and then to clear salt. Do it right, and your dahlias will keep dazzling.

Frequently Asked Questions

Whether you’ve ordered new dahlia tubers or have some stored from last year, it’s always a smart move to check they're viable before planting. In spring, it’s common to see dahlia tubers damaged from being jostled around in the postage system, garden center or your garage.

A single tuber will often become detached from the main cluster, or might see a dahlia tuber with a damaged neck. Some will still have everything they need to grow, giving you an extra Dahlia plant for free; others won’t be viable and will simply rot in the ground, wasting your time and garden space.

Luckily, there’s a really easy way to tell if a dahlia tuber is viable. These fabulous flowers aren’t cheap, so it’s a test that’s well worth doing before planting dahlia tubers.

How to Tell If A Dahlia Tuber is Viable

1. Check the Crown is Intact

If one tuber has become detached from the main cluster, look to see where it has snapped off. A viable dahlia tuber has three parts: the plump, fleshy body where its energy is stored; a knobbly bit at the top called the crown, and a narrower neck connecting the two.

Take a look at these tubers – they all have a knobbly crown at the top of their necks, and it’s from here that the stems will grow. Different varieties come in different shapes but they all should have a knobbly woody collar at the top of the neck.

So, if a tuber has snapped off below this all-important crown – and that’s pretty common as the necks are so narrow – it’s not viable. The rest of the cluster will be fine, but not this damaged, detached tuber.

You can see here how the crowns all attach to last year's stem. Planting this cluster as a whole will grow a large, strong plant, but each tuber has all it needs to survive on its own, too, if it becomes separated, as long as its all-important crown is intact.

2. Look For an Eye

If the crown is intact, the next stage is to look for an eye. This is the point on the crown that the stem grows from, and there may be more than one.

If your tuber is still dormant – and if you recently bought yours then it might still be, even in May, as they’re often kept in cold storage – then the eye will look like a little round bump, pimple or wart. It’ll be the same color as the crown, but slightly raised. If you can’t spot an eye, try brushing off old soil with a dry paintbrush then slowly rotate the crown under a desk light, and a shadow of the raised area may reveal one.

The eyes might be very obvious, too. Once a tuber wakes from dormancy, the eyes start to swell and some can turn a pink or green color. The eye may have even sprouted and you’ll see the shoot.

If your tuber has at least one eye, it’s good to plant.

3. Squeeze the Tuber

If there's no sign of an eye, give the body of the tuber a gentle squeeze. If it feels at all mushy or soft, throw it away.

4. Give it One Last Chance

If the tuber body is firm, you can give your tuber one last chance by laying it horizontally in a tray of just-moist potting mix and barely covering it with a little more soil. Keep this in a warm, light spot that’s at least 65°F and within two weeks you should see at least one stem growing from the crown. If you see nothing after three weeks, examine the tuber again. You should at least be able to spot some swelling eyes at this point so, if you can’t, consign your tuber to the compost heap.

What About Tubers That Are Still Attached?

Clusters of tubers still attached to last year’s stem(s) will have their crowns intact so are good to plant. Just give each tuber a gentle squeeze and, if you discover any that feel mushy, remove them from the cluster by cutting at the neck with hand pruners.

Don't worry if any tubers are shrivelled. As long as they're firm, they're likely fine.

What if the Tuber Neck is Just Damaged?

It’s common to see tubers still attached to the main cluster but with damaged necks. If it’s just the skin that’s broken, the damage is cosmetic and the tuber is likely fine. However, if the damage is deeper and the tuber is hanging by a few fibrous strands, it’s best to snip it off at the neck with hand pruners.

We dahlia enthusiasts are a special kind of passionate. We don’t just want to grow flowers, we are looking to curate something unique, visually stunning, and as long lasting as possible. From the tight, geometric perfection of pompons to the wild, spiky cactus florals that bring to mind a colorful fever dream, from vibrant pinks to sultry mahoganies, dahlias are some of the treasures of our late-summer garden.

The catch is that you’ll often be at the mercy of the calendar. You’ll wait for the soil to warm, plant tubers in May, then spend all of August staring at green leaves, desperately hoping for a bloom before the first frost hits. It’s a waiting game that often ends just as the party gets started. But what if you could cheat the clock? What if you could have those head-turning blooms in July instead of September? Growing dahlias in most regions usually involves a standard cycle of digging and storing tubers each year. But by taking control of the timeline now with these pro secrets, you can effectively buy yourself a few weeks of better, stronger, bigger blooms.

These secrets for dahlia care in spring seem a little strange, maybe even subversive, but they will ensure you can move the bloom timeline forward by up to four weeks, help you get more flower heads, and lead to bigger, sturdier flowers. Read on, as I share the insider secrets that can give your tubers a wake-up call you won’t forget. Use these secrets for spring dahlia care to jumpstart dormancy and double your flower count.

3 Secrets for Dahlia Success

Many dahlia growers play a waiting game in spring. They pull out the stored tubers, put them in the ground or in the pots, cross their fingers, and wait for late summer flowers, some of which might not even bloom until September. If you’ve ever been envious of neighbors who seem to get dinner plate-sized dahlias mid-summer, just know that their results aren’t accidental. They discovered the secret to earlier, bigger, healthier flowers, and it involves taking a few extra steps this month to get your dahlias ready to go and grow.

The dahlia’s metabolic rate is tied strictly to temperature and moisture availability. By artificially manipulating these factors in April, you bypass the slow start phase that usually happens in the cold, damp ground of early May. Our three insider secrets for the perfect dahlia plant care in spring might seem a little odd or excessive, but we promise that these simple tasks are effective and worth every second of your time, even if you don’t live in USDA zones 8 and above (where dahlias are hardy).

These three dahlia secrets for April can make the difference between a nice dahlia showing and a neighborhood spectacular. Of course, the right soil temperature can help when planting. If you need clear, easy-to-understand temperature readings, the Luster Leaf Rapitest Digital Soil Thermometer, available from Amazon, takes the guesswork out of expensive tuber planting. But using these three secrets, you will be giving your dahlia tubers a headstart now so they hit their stride when they are in the garden. Here’s what you need to know for a stunning season of gorgeous blooms.

Secret 1: Giving Your Tubers a Bath

Storing dahlia tubers requires a balancing act. You need to keep tubers in a happy middle place between too much moisture (which can cause rot) and too dry (which can mean they are no longer viable). Many growers err on the side of dry because rot is permanent. But ideally, as well as keeping tubers cool (40-45°F/4.4-7.2°C), dahlia tubers need to be just barely moist.

If you wake up your tubers this year only to find they look shriveled, don’t panic. This can be fixed with a soak. Even tubers that look healthy and firm can benefit from rehydration before going back in the soil. Rehydrating isn't just about plumping the tuber. It’s also about activating the cambium layer beneath the skin. This signals to the eyes (the small bumps where growth begins) that the dormant season is over. By rehydrating before planting, you jumpstart sprouting by a few weeks.

Think of it as setting an alarm clock a little earlier, getting the tubers up and ready early for spring. To rehydrate your tubers, simply submerge them in a bucket or tub of room temperature water for 60-90 minutes. Add a weak solution of seaweed extract or a liquid kelp fertilizer to the water. Seaweed contains natural hormones (cytokinins) that further encourage the eyes to wake up. You can buy Maxicrop Liquid Seaweed with Kelp Extract from Walmart. Don’t leave tubers in water for several hours or overnight, as this can lead to rot, and only soak dry, healthy tubers.

Secret 2: Hotboxing for Early Eyes

Once your tubers are hydrated, don’t plant them outside straightaway. The ground in April is likely cold and wet, which can lead to the very tuber rot you’ve just tried to avoid. Instead, this second little trick helps you to “pre-sprout” your tubers and tricks your dahlias into thinking it’s already June. It helps break dormancy and stimulate new growth early, giving you a head start of literal weeks of seeing summer flowers.

This method is called hotboxing, and the idea is to use warmth and a little moisture to simulate the ideal growing conditions for a tuber coming out of winter dormancy, tricking the tuber into getting started early. Dahlias love warm days and cool nights. They need soil temperatures of 60-70°F (15.5-21.1C) to grow actively. By hotboxing indoors in April, you are providing that sweet spot weeks ahead of schedule.

To hotbox your tubers, use a shallow crate or tray. Place your tubers in the container and surround with a slightly damp coco coir or peat-free potting mix. The eyes of the dahlia are located on the crown, where the tuber meets the old stem. Make sure this part is slightly exposed or lightly covered, so you can monitor growth. Place on a seedling heat mat to stimulate roots. Buy Vivosun Durable Waterproof Seedling Heat Mats from Amazon to maintain that steady temperature your tubers crave.

Check your tubers every few days. The eyes should swell, change color, and eventually sprout. Once you have a sprout about an inch long, you’ve successfully woken the plant. You are now officially ahead of the game. Just take care to avoid letting the tubers get too wet. The soil or other material should be just barely damp, never soggy. Also, ensure your tubers have good airflow to avoid rot or mold.

Secret 3: Beheading Dahlias

This can feel wrong at first, but trust us when we tell you it will result in fuller growth and, ultimately, more flowers. Most gardeners know about pinching plants back. When you pinch stems, you encourage side shoots. This means fuller growth, but also more stems for more blooms. What feels so wrong is that it requires snipping back the first sprouts. Your instinct will be to let that early growth go, but pinching now means more growth and more flowers later, so go for it! It’s one of the most important ways to care for dahlias in spring, after following the other two steps.

Most dahlia tubers send up one dominant apical sprout. If left, the plant will focus all its energy on this one stem, resulting in a tall, lanky plant that needs heavy staking and produces only a few flowers at the top. By pinching this central tip, you disrupt apical dominance. When it is 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) long, snip back to just above a leaf node, removing the top 2-3 inches (5-8cm) with a clean pair of snips or shears. Team favorite Fiskars’ Micro-Tip Pruning Snips, available from Amazon, can help you make clean, precise cuts without damaging the rest of the stem.

Removing the central growing tip redirects energy into side shoots. The plant releases a burst of auxins (growth hormones) to the lower leaf nodes, forcing the plant to create 4-6 lateral branches instead of one. Always sanitize your shears with rubbing alcohol between plants. You can buy Swan Rubbing Alcohol from Walmart to dip your snips in to ensure a healthy, virus-free process. The result? A bushy, self-supporting shrub that produces 3-4 times as many flowers!

Go the Extra Mile in Spring

Since you’ve taken the time to wake up and prepare your tubers early, it’s worth putting some effort into getting the soil ready. The ideal soil for dahlias is a rich, sandy loam with a pH of 6.5-7. Use a soil meter like the Yamron 5-in-1 Soil Meter from Amazon to save yourself some work later, and make small soil pH adjustments as you see fit, using sulfur or lime to raise or lower pH accordingly.

The ideal soil for dahlias is rich and fertile. It drains well and stays moist but doesn’t get soggy. Before planting, do a quick squeeze test on your garden soil. Pick up a handful and squeeze. If it stays in a tight, muddy ball, it’s too wet. If it crumbles, you’re golden. To improve drainage, incorporate well-rotted compost. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers early in the season, as this can lead to weak, watery stems and fewer flowers. Instead, look for a bloom booster or a balanced organic compost. Don’t rule out raised beds or containers if you have ongoing problem soils.

Since you are planting tubers earlier, ensure the soil is warm enough to receive them. Soil temperature should be 60°F (15.5C), so use your soil thermometer to ensure you get this right. If a late April frost is predicted after you've moved your pre-sprouted tubers outside, you must protect those tender sprouts. A single frost will turn your hard-earned sprouts to black mush. Cover the soil with black plastic or landscape fabric a week before planting to absorb solar heat.

Once tubers are in the ground, keep frost blankets or old 5-gallon buckets nearby to pop over the plants if the temperature dips. You can buy plant covers to help give an extra layer of protection if there are unexpected late frosts. Buy Homeya Plant Protection Covers with Zips from Wayfair to pop over beheaded dahlias during a surprise cold snap. Knowing what to do with dahlias in spring is that easy – and ensures you get more blooms and bigger flowers, and much sooner.

Shop Dahlia Spring Essentials

Knowing these dahlia secrets should get you off to the races much faster, but you need a few care essentials to help you on your way, these curated items can give you the edge with your spring preparations. Here are our top picks for a successful dahlia wakeup call:

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In November, Martha Stewart shared a blog post about one of her favorite winter garden traditions: Protecting her beloved dahlia tubers without digging them up. Dahlias may appear like they’re fragile and can rip easily, but with the right care in winter, they can survive the frigid cold and bloom back to life come spring.

Martha’s method is actually quite simple and surprisingly doesn’t require much effort from the gardener. It’s perfect for the person who wants beautiful dahlias without the yearly ritual of having to lift and store the tubers.

Why Leave Dahlias in the Ground?

Dahlias are tender perennials, which means they can’t naturally handle freezing cold temperatures. Most gardeners dig up and store dahlia bulbs in their basement or garage in order to replant them when warm temperatures finally return.

Leaving dahlias in the ground allows the root system to mature undisturbed and saves the gardener time and guesswork in spring.

1. Start With a Thick Mulch Blanket

Start the winter process by cutting blackened foliage down to a few inches above the soil. After than is the most important step: insulation.

To do this, create a deep pile of mulch, around 8 to 12 inches (20-30 cm) high, over each clump of tubers. This could consist of shredded leaves, pine needle mulch, or straw. This keeps the soil temperature stable and protects tubers from the dreaded freeze-thaw cycle. Try this Premium Brown Pine Bark Mulch from Lowe’s. It offers excellent insulation and settles naturally over the winter months.

2. Add a Weather Shield

If winters where you live involve heavy rain, ice, or strong wind, adding a breathable cover will help. This plant cover from Amazon is for plants low to the ground, protecting them from sleet, snow, frost, and wind. It’s great for an easy, hands-off approach and works well if you live in a very cold climate. You can also buy a roll of burlap fabric from Amazon. Burlap is a favorite as it keeps the mulch in place while still allowing moisture and air to move through.

Bonus tip: If you use burlap, you can tuck a few evergreen branches leftover from the Christmas on top for a bit of extra protection and a cute holiday aesthetic.

3. Don’t Forget About Drainage

Cold can be challenging, but soggy soil is a whole other beast. Dahlia tubers rot easily when wet, especially in compacted soil, and even if they’re insulated. If your garden tends to stay damp in winter (say if you live in an area that gets a lot of rain), consider slightly raising your planting area or mixing in a coarse compost to help improve drainage.

This garden soil from Lowe’s works especially well as it loosens dense soil and helps drain water away from the tubers.

4. Mark Your Clumps for Spring

Your work isn’t completely done! Once you’ve tucked in your dahlias for the winter, place a marker next to each dahlia mound. Winter has a way of making you forget what is planted where, especially when it gets covered by snow and leaves.

What to Expect When the Weather Warms

Once spring arrives, we’re all so excited that it’s tempting to uncover everything right away. Resist this temptation! Pull back mulch gradually to protect the tender new growth, especially as you can still have unexpected frost, even in spring.

The tubers will sprout when the soil warms up, and if winter still causes some partial dieback, dahlias usually rebound quickly once they get going.

A Gentle, Sustainable Way to Garden

Martha Stewart’s hack for winter dahlia defense is a reminder that gardening doesn’t need to be hard labor. With a thick layer of mulch, breathable protection, and a little patience, you can keep your dahlias safe throughout the winter.

Knowing when to cut back dahlias in winter can feel confusing, especially when advice varies wildly by climate and frost timing. These late-blooming stunners often put on a show into November, meaning they are spared in the fall garden tidy up. When the display is over, fading dahlias make the garden look messy, but cutting them back too soon can lead to problems including tuber rot and weakened plants that produce fewer flowers next year.

Leaving your dahlias too late is less of a problem than cutting too soon, but it makes it difficult if you plan to dig up and store the bulbs. Ideally this should be done before prolonged periods of frost and snow. Personally, I never dig up my dahlias and instead overwinter them in the ground. I mulch them for insulation, but beyond that it’s a case of survival of the fittest. That said, if you live in USDA Zone 6 or colder, storing dahlias indoors over winter is often necessary.

Whether you’re leaving your dahlias in the ground or digging them up for winter, this part of dahlia care often feels the most uncertain. But there is one rule I always follow that removes all the guesswork and ensures I cut them back at just the right time.

My Easy Rule

After 15 years of growing dahlias, I have developed this golden rule: “If dahlias are black, cut them back; if they’re green, leave them be.” Essentially, you shouldn’t cut back your dahlias until the first hard frost has killed the top growth. You’re looking for blackened foliage and flower heads, and stems that are browning.

It’s important to avoid cutting back dahlias before this stage because the plants continue sending energy to the tubers until frost kills the foliage. Frost doesn’t trigger dormancy – shortening days do – but frost does mark the point when the plant stops photosynthesizing and tubers stop taking in energy. Cutting too early interrupts this process and can reduce tuber vigor – or, in the worst case, kill the tubers.

The exception to this rule is if you live in a frost-free climate, in which case you should cut back in late autumn or winter once nights consistently drop down below 40°F (4–5°C).

What to Do When Frost Arrives

Before cutting back your dahlias, confirm the frost damage. As well as foliage going black, other signs of frost kill include stems going limp and darkening; they may also be a bit mushy. If in doubt, wait another day or two to be sure.

When you’re ready to go, take clean, sharp pruners (I love my Felco 2 pruners, available on Amazon) and cut the stems back to 4–6 inches above the soil line. Leaving a little stem makes it easier to lift the tubers or provides a bit of extra height for mulching if you plan to leave them in the ground.

Lifting and Storing

If you plan to lift and store dahlia tubers, then after cutting back you should dig them up immediately – or within the next couple of days. Don’t just leave them sitting there for weeks.

While you want the dahlias to have been blackened by frost, you don’t want to dig them up when the ground is frozen. If the soil is dry or compacted, water lightly the day before to make the job easier.

Rather than using a shovel to lift your tubers – which can cut them – use a digging fork or border fork, like this Spear and Jackson fork on Amazon. Dahlia tubers spread far beyond the visible stems, so dig 8–12 inches (20–30 cm) out from the base in all directions (14–16 inches/35–40 cm for very large plants). Loosen the soil around them with your fork to free the clump, then slide the fork deep underneath at a shallow angle and carefully lift the tubers.

Lift and gently shake them from side to side, letting excess soil fall away naturally. Only rinse lightly if necessary – but preferably not until it's time to divide dahlia tubers. Holding a single tuber often snaps the neck, so instead cradle the crown (the central stem base) to avoid damage.

Let the tuber clumps dry for about a day or two so the cut ends can callus over. Pack them in a barely damp medium like peat moss, vermiculite, or wood shavings, then store them in a ventilated box in a cool area, such as an unheated basement or garage – ideally 40–50°F (4–10°C). Don’t forget to label them before storing so you know which varieties you have. Check monthly for shriveling or rot, adjusting moisture as needed to keep the tubers firm.

Leaving Tubers in the Ground

If you live in USDA Zones 8 to 10, you can comfortably leave tubers in the ground. If you live in Zone 7, you can leave them with some extra care. Mulching is key and should be applied to a depth of 6–12 inches (15–30 cm) in colder areas; in warmer zones, 3–6 inches (8–15cm) is usually enough. Use straw, compost, bark, or fallen leaves turned into leaf mulch, and keep it a few inches away from the stems to prevent rot.

As well as helping to regulate soil temperature, mulching suppresses weeds and keeps the soil evenly moist.

If a particularly cold snap is expected, add horticultural fleece for a short period, like this one from Amazon. Keep it in place with bricks and remove once the worst of the weather has passed as prolonged use reduces breathability and traps moisture.

In early spring, once the danger of hard frost has mostly passed and the soil has begun to warm, you can remove the mulch. Pull it back gradually as temperatures rise. In colder regions, keep a light layer handy in case you need to cover young growth during a late cold snap.

Dahlias are beautiful late-season flowers that reward the patient gardener with striking, swoonworthy blooms. Many enthusiasts are in a state of anticipation for much of summer, waiting to enjoy those delectable dahlia displays. But once the show’s over, we’ll then be wondering what to do with our dahlias in the fall. At this point, dahlia care inevitably hinges around a single question regarding tubers for the blooms we have admired and fervently wish to keep – to lift or not to lift?

Do you confidently know what to do with dahlias after flowering? They are perennials in warmer climates and annuals elsewhere. If you live where dahlias are not hardy but want to enjoy them again next year, you’ll need to lift and store the tubers. The decision to lift or not to lift is important for maintaining healthy, flowering dahlias. If you’re new to growing them, this decision can be tough. So here’s how to make that one big decision that can guarantee your dahlias flourish next year.

Deciding what to do with dahlias in the fall is a personal choice – but this article will help you make an informed one. It covers the inside scoop on whether lifting is best for your tubers, depending on your growing zone and conditions – plus, how best to store your dahlias for winter.

What Dahlias Need in Fall

With the best dahlia care, your plants are capable of blooming well into fall. Exactly when they start and stop blooming will depend on variety, growing zone, and local weather. While they are flowering, there are a few things to check before you have to worry about the question of lifting tubers. You shouldn’t lift tubers while your dahlias are still blooming – but there are a few things to check first. Whether you’ll be lifting the tubers or not, they can benefit from some fall care while they are still flowering.

While plants are blooming, maintain health by removing lower leaves on stems to improve airflow and protect against mildew, especially if you are having a damp autumn. You may also need to use a fungicide on leaves that show any signs of mildew. It’s also crucial that you keep deadheading dahlia blooms for as long as you can, to get as many flowers as possible from each plant. Snip just above a leaf node using a part of snips or shears like Scotts' Straight Tip Floral Shears from Walmart.

However, after the first frost, you can cut back the stalks and think about next steps for best dahlia care in the fall. Deciding what to do with dahlias after flowering will depend on whether you are longing to see more from these particular varieties. If you only want to treat dahlias as annuals, you don’t have to do anything except cut back the foliage in fall. But if you want to enjoy your dahlias again, this is the point where you will mull over the need for lifting tubers for winter storage.

To best answer this question, it primarily depends on where you live. In cooler climates where dahlias aren’t hardy, lifting is a popular option if you want to keep your favorites for next year. The idea is to lift and remove the tubers, store them safely for winter, and replant them in spring.

Why Not Leave Tubers in Ground?

Tubers are fleshy structures that grow underground for the purpose of storing nutrients and energy. It’s important to leave foliage on dahlias until after the first frost, or until it dies back. This is because the leaves are actively taking energy from the sun and storing it in the tubers. Although it’s not quite the same thing, tubers are also sometimes referred to as bulbs.

Dahlias need healthy tubers to grow from the following spring. At this time of year, you may already be thinking about protecting plants from fall frost. If you leave the tubers in the ground, you run the risk of losing them to the extremes of cold in your area, moisture in the ground, and any potential tuber rots that might result. Too much damage to the tubers will ruin any chance of new growth next year. You can get a good sense of moisture (and other things) by doing a soil test using a meter like the Raintrip 4-in-1 Soil Meter from Amazon.

Knowing what to do with dahlia bulbs in the fall depends mostly on your climate and growing zone. For some gardeners, this distinction is not perfectly clear, and there may be other factors to consider, like soil type. Your soil meter should also be able to give you a good read on your soil, to help you determine the degree of risk.

When it’s Safe to Leave Tubers

Allowing for variations based on specific varieties, dahlias are usually hardy in USDA zones 8-11, so if you are in these areas, you can technically keep your tubers in the ground. In these zones, the tubers should be able to survive winter and grow again in spring. In other words, they are perennial flowering plants in these zones.

Even in warmer zones, however, there are some risks to leaving bulbs in the ground. You need to make sure your soil drains well, as excess moisture in the ground can cause the tubers to rot. It’s also a good idea to mulch the ground above your dahlias for extra protection. The Gardening Know How Team recommends Back To The Roots Organic Mulch from Amazon, for its extensive blend of soil-friendly benefits. This is an especially important part of preparing your garden for winter if you’re expecting an unusually cold period.

It’s also important to remember that the soil will get colder in winter in containers or raised beds. If you grow your dahlias this way, you should definitely consider lifting and storing the tubers – or at least adding extra protection in winter.

When it’s Better to Lift

To enjoy flowers from the same plants next year, you must lift and store dahlia tubers if you live in USDA zones 7 and colder. If you leave them in the ground, it’s very likely they will be damaged by the cold and won’t survive the winter. Worrying about how to store dahlias for winter is a better worry than leaving them outside of your control and vulnerable to punishing weather extremes.

You also might want to consider lifting your dahlias for winter storage if you’re on the edge of the necessary hardiness zones, or if you live in a warmer zone but your soil is heavy or tends to get soggy in winter. In these cases, if you try leaving the tubers in the ground, you run the risk of cold or moisture damage.

Even in zones that are plenty warm, it’s worth lifting dahlia tubers if you have good storage options. Put it this way – tubers left in the ground, no matter where, are at the mercy of the weather, the soil, and any pathogens. Proper storage allows you greater control over the health of your dahlias and their ability to bloom again.

What to Remember if You Lift

Lifting and storing dahlias is a great way to keep plants for next year, but it has to be done right. Silly mistakes can ruin your tubers and waste your efforts. Here are my expert tips for successful removal and winter storage of dahlia tubers:

• The best time to dig up dahlias is after the first hard frost, when the leaves have died or blackened. Don’t wait until the ground is frozen.
• Cut back the foliage and stalks, using a sharp blade like this great-value Secateurs Set from Spear & Jackson, available at Amazon. Wait a week or two to dig up the tubers. This gives them a chance to develop eyes, which are vital for new growth later. It’s important to get them out of the ground before a freeze, though, so keep a watchful eye on the weather.
• Use a garden fork and spade to carefully dig around and lift tubers. Take care to avoid piercing them, then leave them to dry in the sun.
• Gently brush off dirt, divide tuber clumps, and dispose of any tubers that show rot. Place them in a sheltered, dry spot to cure for a few days.
• Store your dahlia tubers between 40 and 50°F (4-10°C). The ThermoPro TP50 Hygrometer, available at Amazon, is a user-friendly way of tracking temperature and humidity changes at a glance while under cover.
• Storing dahlia tubers in paper bags is one option. You can also wrap them in newspaper or store them in sawdust or vermiculite, such as Back to the Roots Organic Vermiculite, available at Amazon.
• Check on your tubers throughout winter. They should not get too dry, but they should also not get moist enough to start rotting.

Your stored dahlia tubers will be ready to go back in the ground in spring next year after the last frost and when the soil has warmed. Alternatively, you can place your dahlias in pots in spring. With good care, you should be able to enjoy your dahlias for years to come. Happy lifting!

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Dahlias are among the most varied flowers you can grow in the garden. Hundreds of cultivars include different shapes, petal types, and sizes that range from petite and simple to dinner-plate-sized blooms bursting with petals. To enjoy these beautiful cutting flowers, look for the most prolific dahlia varieties.

Most dahlias have been bred to be productive, but some yield more flowers and longer-lasting blooms than others. Productive varieties come in all types, from balls to anemones. Choose the types of dahlias you like best and that will give you the most flowers all season.

Choosing the Best Dahlias for More Flowers

Whether you’re looking for large dahlia flowers, smaller types, or anything in between, you want the most bang for your buck. Choosing productive varieties helps, but you can also improve flowering by ensuring good dahlia care. Dahlias need full sun, plenty of water, and fertilizer – ideally a bloom-boosting formula, such as Miracle-Gro Flower Food, available at Amazon. And, don’t forget to deadhead dahlias to get a rebloom and extend flowering time.

Some varieties were simply bred to be more productive, especially those with ball-shaped blooms. These stunning options might give you more flowers in one go, while others keep blooming all season or rebloom throughout the summer and fall.

1. Cornel

‘Cornel’ is very reliable and one of the most productive dahlias with very strong stems that grow up to four feet (1.2m) tall. Cornel is a ball flower type in a deep shade of red. These striking flowers bloom prolifically in summer and fall. You can also find a similar type called ‘Cornel Brons’ with a peach color that darkens to bronze in the center of the flower. Cornel will bloom repeatedly with deadheading.

Cornel and Cornel Brons tubers are both available on Amazon.

2. Chimacum Night

This variety is similar in color and shape to Cornel. The ball-type flowers are a slightly lighter shade of red and a little larger. Like the Cornel varieties, ‘Chimacum Night’ is highly productive. It will keep blooming throughout summer and well into fall, especially if you deadhead it regularly. The medium-sized flowers grow on strong stems up to four feet tall.

Find Chimacum Night at Under the Sun Flower Company.

3. Café au Lait

The flower shape of ‘Café au Lait’ is called decorative, a group that encompasses various shapes that don’t fit into other types. Café au Lait blooms steadily and will give you plenty of cut flowers with a dense cluster of flat, broad petals the color of milky coffee. Slightly darker at the centers, these are big dahlia flowers, known as dinner plates. Growing on five-foot (1.5-m) stems, they can be as big as ten inches (25cm) across.

Buy Dahlia Cafe au Lait tubers from Easy to Grow via Amazon.

4. Intrigue

This is a beautiful dahlia that exhibits an intriguing color shift. The four-inch blooms begin a bright watermelon pink and change to a deeper raspberry or red color in fall. It’s productive and gives you an abundance of flowers that look different from one season to the next. ‘Intrigue’ grows about four feet tall. The flower shape is a loose ball.

Order Dahlia Intrigue from Swan Island Dahlias.

5. Terracotta

Another unique variety, ‘Terracotta’ is a semi-cactus type flower in a rich, peach-brown color. ‘Terracotta’ is very productive and will give you plenty of flowers in summer and fall. It responds well to deadheading and will continue to bloom. The plant is large, growing to five feet tall, and the flowers can be up to five inches (13cm) across.

Order Dahlia Terracotta from Three Acre Farm.

6. Suncrest

If you want a productive yellow dahlia, ‘Suncrest’ should be your go-to choice. The four-inch ball-shaped blooms are the perfect shade of canary yellow but also have a peachy blush on the petal tips. It produces a lot of flowers throughout the season, especially with deadheading. The flowers also last particularly long on the plant and resist damage in bad weather.

Find out more about Suncrest dahlias at Floret.

7. Blue Bayou

This is an example of an anemone-type dahlia that produces prolifically throughout the season. The outer petals are a light pinkish-lavender, while the curled central petals are a deeper purple. This is a smaller dahlia plant than others on this list, so it’s suitable for smaller spaces. ‘Blue Bayou’ only grows to about three feet (90cm) tall, but with numerous, four-inch flowers.

Order Dahlia Blue Bayou at Swan Island Dahlias.

8. Clearview Peachy

This pretty ball-shaped dahlia is a prolific bloomer. It also has long-lasting flowers that still look good even two weeks after being cut. The color is a pinky peach with some yellow at the center of each flower. With deadheading, you can get plenty of flowers from ‘Clearview Peachy’ well into the fall. The plants grow up to five feet tall and each flower is about four inches across.

Order Dahlia Clearview Peachy at Mountain Roots Produce.

9. Jomanda

One of the most productive of all dahlias is another ball type. ‘Jomanda’ flowers are a unique rusty orange color and about four inches across. They bloom for a long time, and the flowers really last in cut arrangements. Keep deadheading this dahlia to encourage even more flowers well into fall.

Order Jomanda dahlia tubers at Free Range Flowers.

Dahlias have a solid reputation for blooming through summer well into the fall, so hopefully you’ll be enjoying an abundance of blooms for many weeks. It’s really only the arrival of the first frost that will mark the end of the flowering season definitively. However, there are definitely stages to dahlia care after flowering that it is good to keep in mind.

As soon as you get a feeling that the blooms are starting to fade, make sure you follow these steps to keep them looking their best. Here, we'll explore what to do with dahlias after flowering, when to cut back dahlias after flowering, and how to further promote bloom.

1. Make Sure Dahlias Have Finished Flowering

Yes, you’ve seen the flowers fade – but dahlias are notoriously generous when it comes to repeat showings, especially if you are willing to keep snipping back the fading flower heads. Routine deadheading, or the removal of faded blooms, is a great way to extend the display. This should be your first step in ensuring the best care for dahlias after flowering.

So make sure you keep dahlias flowering for as long as possible by deadheading. Where you see a faded flower head, snip just above a leaf node using shears like Scotts' Straight Tip Floral Shears from Walmart. Lightly pinching or trimming green growth back to the nearest set of healthy leaves can help plants to rebloom as temperatures start to cool in the fall.

It’s true, the production of blooms will likely decrease over time. This will be especially true where summer temperatures climb high, or where conditions are dry. But it’s always worth deadheading as a means to eke out the show. Towards the end of the season, you may want to save seed on a few flower heads, allowing the seed pods to dry and fully mature.

2. Cutting Dahlias Back in the Fall

So when do you cut dahlias back after flowering? The first frost will officially mark the end of the dahlia growing season. At this time, plants will brown and begin to die back. At this point, care of dahlias after flowering becomes about getting the plant ready for winter. Cutting back helps to protect your dahlia variety in preparation for dormancy.

It’s a good idea to allow plants to stand for several weeks as each tuber prepares for winter. After that, each stem can then be cut back to the ground. All dead or decaying plant matter should be removed to prevent the spread of disease in beds. Depending on plant variety, some stalks will be fairly thick. Use a sharp blade – there’s a great-value Secateurs Set from Spear & Jackson, available at Amazon, for sharp cuts.

3. Lifting and Storing Dahlias

Where hardy, tubers may then be left in the ground through winter, returning to bloom again in spring. You can also lift the tubers from the soil and store dahlias indoors. This helps to protect dahlias grown outside the recommended hardiness zone (for most varieties, this will be USDA 8-11).

If you do choose to lift dahlias, you can begin to do so after all plant foliage has died back and been removed. Position the shovel carefully, working in a large circle around the perimeter of each plant. This will help to prevent accidental damage to tubers. Any excess soil should be removed from the plant, allowing for a clearer view of the dahlia clump.

At this time, you can either divide dahlia clumps or store them whole through winter. Pack tubers in wood shavings, peat or vermiculite, to keep tubers protected whilst in storage. We love Back to the Roots Organic Vermiculite, available at Amazon in a variety of sizes along with a selection of perlite bags.

Tubers are best kept in a cool, dark place until planting in spring. If you need a quick way to keep an eye on temperature and humidity, the ThermoPro TP50 Hygrometer, available at Amazon, is a user-friendly way of monitoring key information and tracking changes at a glance.

4. Replanting Dahlias in Spring

You can begin to wake your stored dahlia tubers in early spring. In general, you should allow 4-6 weeks for tubers to break dormancy. Required length will vary, however, with storage conditions being a major contributing factor, along with dahlia variety (and age).

Move stored clumps to a warm location to encourage sprouting, initiating new growth from eyes near each tuber's neck. You may also choose to pot dahlia plants into individual containers at this time, allowing for consistent moisture until the first signs of growth occur. Pre-sprouted tubers can be moved into the garden as soon as the soil has warmed in spring, provided all risk of frost has passed. Follow these steps, and you can be sure you have the best chance of enjoying beautiful summer blooming plants again next year.

Frequently Asked Questions

If you grow dahlias, you’ll probably want to increase your stock. You can do this easily with many varieties by collecting and growing seeds, taking cuttings, or dividing the root. Once the seedlings and cuttings develop a sufficient root system, and the danger of frost is past, you’ll need to be transplanting dahlias outdoors.

Plants that grow from cuttings or root division are exact replicas of the original or mother plant. Plants that grow from seed are new varieties you created yourself, (along with the help of the bees!). Once dahlias started from seed or cuttings and grown in pots are big enough, dahlia transplanting allows you to relocate your homegrown dahlias in larger containers, raised beds, window boxes or mixed beds. That way, they can hit the flowering season at the peak of health.

Here’s how to make sure you are transplanting dahlia plants at the right time, in the best way, and with the best aftercare.

When to Transplant Dahlias

If you’re wondering when to transplant dahlias, it’s best done in the spring once the danger of frost is past. You can find your average last frost date on the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) website. Watch your local weather to make sure no more frosts or freezes are forecast. Do dahlias transplant well? Dahlias grown from seed or cuttings transplant easily into the garden in spring. Also, roots divided in the spring transplant well into the ground. With the right prep and care, transplanted dahlias can keep flowering all summer and well into fall.

If you haven’t prepared your planting site, do that while waiting for temperatures to warm. Get a soil sample analyzed to find out what kind of amendments (if any) your soil needs. You'll find some great multi-test kits online. The Rapitest Soil Test Kit for Gardens, available at Amazon, tests for soil pH, phosphorus, nitrogen and potash levels.

Without a soil sample, you can work in compost or well-rotted manure about two weeks before you anticipate planting out your particular dahlia varieties. Alternatively, you can apply a low nitrogen fertilizer – something with a ratio of 5-10-5 or 5-10-10, such as Old Cobblers Farm Fertilizer 5-10-10, available at Walmart. Add to the planting beds following the instructions on the fertilizer package.

How to Transplant Dahlias

You will know when to transplant dahlia seedlings because the roots will fill the planting pot. If the last frost date is behind you, start hardening off the seedlings, which takes a week to 10 days. Take the pots outside to a shady area during the day and bring them back in at night. Do this daily, but each day increase the amount of sun the plants receive. Hardening off gives them the best chance of developing into beautiful summer blooming plants.

To plant a seedling, dig a hole an inch (2.5cm) deeper than the rootball. Insert the plant, then fill in with soil to ground level. Water the plant well. Slide a stake into the earth next to the plant about as tall as the plant will grow. Adding a stake now rather than later will prevent root or tuber damage. Joyhalo Plant Stakes from Amazon come in packs of 16 and include a bundle of twist ties.

Plant each dahlia a couple of feet (0.6m) apart to allow room for tubers to form. Water enough to keep the soil from drying out. If you live where there is a long growing season, direct sow the dahlia seeds into the soil after it has warmed to 65-70°F (18-21°C). Cover seeds with a quarter inch of soil and keep moist until plants germinate.

Transplanting dahlias from pots after rooting the cuttings is the same procedure as planting seedlings above. Similarly, you can pot dahlias on into larger pots and planters outdoors, creating optimum conditions for the best container plants possible.

Care for Newly Planted Dahlias

After planting, continue summer care of the plants. If you didn’t fertilize instead of adding soil amendments at planting, you can start fertilizing dahlias three weeks after planting – and subsequently every four weeks during the growing season. If you are growing dahlias in containers, fertilize them every three weeks. Use a low nitrogen fertilizer such as Age Old Organics Age Old Bloom 5-10-5 from Walmart. Make sure your plants also water dahlias frequently, particularly in high summer.

After dahlia transplanting, apply mulch around the plants to conserve moisture, keep the plants cool, and reduce weeds. During flowering, keep an eye on faded flowers and deadhead dahlias regularly to prolong the flowering season. Protect the plants from slugs and snails by removing the pests early each morning. Deploy organic solutions such as beer traps to help regulate slug numbers.

Frequently Asked Questions

Dahlias are tuberous perennials native to Mexico and Central America, and they come in all shapes and sizes. Prized in the garden for their varied blooms, they can create dazzling displays that quickly fill out beds and borders. However, if you have limited space or want to grow dahlias in containers, you do have options.

There are plenty of dwarf dahlias that can rise to the occasion while maintaining a compact form. These small dahlias only grow to two feet (60cm) in height, and they are commonly 12-18 inches (30-45cm). Here are a few of the most exquisite for gorgeous long flowering summer blooming plants even in small spaces.

Choosing the Best Compact Dahlia Varieties

Many dahlias are tall, growing up to six feet (1.8m), and are not appropriate for containers. These short dahlias are ideal for a small dahlia garden, compact backyard, balcony space or full sun container garden.

These smaller dahlia varieties should come back next year if you properly dig up and store the tuberous roots. Let the roots cure in the soil for the best results. This means not digging them up until about two weeks after the first frost. Wrap the roots in newspaper and store in a box with sawdust, sand or vermiculite in a cool, dry area. Plant next spring for another summer of blooms.

1. ‘Sunshine’

This is a single dahlia variety that comes in a striking double-color combination of deep yellow with orange at the base of each petal. When grown in a container garden, it’s truly sunshine in a pot.

If you can keep these dahlias flowering, they can last for up to four weeks each, and they also attract pollinators. 'Sunshine' dahlias grow as tall as two feet (60cm). If you like yellow single dahlias, then ‘Happy Single’ from Walmart is also a great option for containers.

2. ‘Stacy Rachelle’

‘Stacy Rachelle’ came onto the scene in 1993 as a new cultivar that only grows to about eight inches (20cm) tall. This makes it an ideal plant for container gardening. The flowers are ball type, meaning they have many tightly packed petals forming a rounded shape.

Flowers are a pretty pinkish-purple and sit on top of especially sturdy and straight stems. If you like ball dahlias, pinky purple ‘Lilac Time’ from Touch of Eco is available to buy in bulb form from Walmart.

3. ‘Scura’

This is an all-around dwarf, with a short height (one foot or 30cm) and a small flower (one inch or 2.5cm across). The blooms are a deep shade of orange with an orange center. They are considered single dahlias for their single row of petals.

‘Scura’ is a simple but very elegant flower and one of the most colorful plants you can grow in a smaller garden or pot. If you like orange single dahlias, then ‘Topmix Salmon’ dahlia from Holland Bulb Farms, available from Walmart, is also a great dwarf for containers and small gardens.

4. ‘Yankee Doodle Dandy’

This is a really special variety of dahlia and perfect for containers, because it is short and has a bushy growth habit. It will only get as tall as two feet and will fill out a container nicely. Deadhead frequently to extend the flowering season. The flowers are the collarette type, meaning they have an outer ring of petals surrounded by an inner ring of smaller petals.

The outer petals are deep pink with white streaks and the inner petals are solid white, while the center is yellow. If you like collarettes and want to grow a dwarf variety, you can also get ‘Impression Festivo’ dahlias from Hirt’s Gardens, available from Walmart, with red and yellow tones.

5. ‘Pianella’

‘Pianella’ grows between 18 and 24 inches (45 and 60cm) and is a cactus-type of dahlia. Cactus dahlias have tubular petals, which give each flower head a distinctively spiky appearance. ‘Pianella’ petals are reddish-pink with white edging on the tips.

If you like cactus dahlia varieties, ‘Tahiti Sunrise’ from Hirt’s Gardens, available at Walmart, only grows to 20 inches tall, and makes a lovely option for a small cut flower garden.

6. ’Happy Days’

‘Happy Days’ dahlias make sensational summer flowers for pots. This is actually a series of compact dahlias that come in several colors: pink, yellow, purple, red, lemon yellow and red combined with orange.

These dahlias also have unique, nearly black foliage. This deep, rich leaf tone sets off the bright colors of the blooms, which are single-petalled. ‘Happy Days’ dahlias grow to 20 inches (50cm) tall.

7. ‘Omo’

If you’re looking for a short, pure white dahlia, you can’t go wrong with ‘Omo,’ which will only grow to 16 inches (40cm) tall. The petals are single and bright white, and surround a yellow center.

If you like white dahlias, you can also try ‘Dalina Grande Lopez’ from Proven Winners, which is another good option for containers, reaching 18 inches (30cm) tall.

Dahlia enthusiasts love these plants for their blooms, so dahlias not blooming in the garden is a real letdown. We hear that – and we understand why you’ll be looking for clues as to where you might need to adapt your growing care to entice those dazzling floral displays into life.

Similarly, where you have seen a few flowers but failed to see consecutive blooms, worry not – there are ways to switch up your dahlia cultivating techniques to bring on further dynamics. So if you’re trying to grow dazzling dollies and aren’t seeing enough flowers, check out these common dahlia problems and solutions.

7 Dahlia Problems to Avoid for Better Blooming

As dahlia lovers, we might often gaze at other people’s dahlia displays and wonder how they do it so well – especially if our own dahlias don’t put on quite the show we were expecting, or fail to flower at all. Exactly what is it that makes some displays burst into life with such vibrant conviction – while our own remain relatively quiet?

The big secret to growing different varieties of dahlias successfully is to provide them with their ideal growing conditions: plenty of sunlight, well-drained, fertile soil, consistent moisture, and regular balanced fertilizer. For most areas, growing dahlias for more than once season also requires digging up tubers in the fall to store for winter.

Whether you’re growing dahlias in the ground or growing potted dahlias, there are a few tried and true ways to identify and fix the source of your dahlia doldrums. Read on to find out if any of these common mistakes could be holding you back – and how to rectify the problems to bring on those enduring summer blooms.

1. Overwatering or Underwatering

Getting moisture right is key to healthy, blooming dahlias that flower for longer. In a dahlia, yellow leaves or wilting leaves can be signs of both too much and too little water. Overwatered dahlias may also be droopy. Dahlia leaf problems due to overwatering also include wilting and a watery, translucent appearance.

For the best chance of healthy, vibrant blooms, you need to water dahlias deeply once or twice a week from the beginning of the growing season. Use mulch to hold moisture in the soil, but be sure the planting area drains well.

2. Too Much Nitrogen in Fertilizer

Dahlias are heavy feeders and need regular fertilizer to thrive and develop the most colorful flowers. However, there is a chance you could be giving your plants the wrong type of food. If the fertilizer has too much nitrogen, the plants will focus on growing leaves rather than flowers. You need to use a general fertilizer or a tomato fertilizer, and apply as directed.

A potassium-rich feed will boost and support flowering, particularly if you are growing dahlias in containers. You can apply a feed geared towards flowering until September. Try Neptune’s Harvest from Amazon which helps with stress resistance as well as improved flower size. You’ll also appreciate water-soluble Miracle-Gro Tomato Plant Food from Amazon for a controlled way to promote more robust dahlia blooms.

3. Inadequate Sunlight

Dahlias are full sun plants. Whether you are looking for a vibrant bloomer for a container garden or a stunning addition to a bed or border, you need to make sure that the spot you choose is one that will be able to sate this summer stunner’s need for extensive rays. To really thrive and flower, they need eight hours of direct sunlight per day.

In hotter climates, plant your dahlias in a location that gets most of this sun earlier in the day. Bear in mind that hot afternoon temperatures can stress these plants. In a dahlia, leaves curling can indicate that the plant is too hot or getting too much intense afternoon sun. Try to alleviate this risk by providing some shade from afternoon rays.

4. Too Cold to Grow

Dahlias are native to the tropics, so if they get too cold, they won’t thrive or flower and might even die. You need to wait until the soil in spring is at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10°C) before planting your tubers. If you live in a colder climate, be aware that your dahlias may not flower until late summer or even fall.

5. Forgetting to Deadhead

Deadheading spent blooms is important for keeping your dahlias blooming. As the flowers fade, the plant starts putting energy into seed production. When you deadhead dahlia flowers, the plant will then produce more, so it can still go on to make those seeds. Snip off fading flowers throughout the season to keep the plant producing as many new blooms as possible.

Harvesting cut flowers will also help extend the blooming season. Use cutters specifically geared towards neat, precise cuts directly under the fading flowerhead. Try this 3-Pack of Shears, Snips and Clippers from Amazon to cover off a range of cuts. We also love Scotts Straight Tip Floral Shears from Walmart for accurate cuts that suit both right and left-handed dahlia growers.

6. Damaged or Rotten Tubers

Dahlias are tubers that, in most regions, must be lifted in the fall and stored for winter. One of the most important parts of dahlia care is proper storage of dahlia tubers over winter. You need to know how to tell if dahlia tubers are dead or no longer viable. If you plant bad tubers, you won’t get flowers.

A healthy tuber should be firm and a healthy color with plenty of eyes. Tubers need to be moist enough to be firm rather than shriveled, but not so moist that they rot. To avoid bad tubers, store them properly in peat moss, plastic, or wood shavings in a dry, protected place. Check them every month, and add moisture as needed. Throw out any that begin to rot, as they will destroy the rest of the tubers.

7. Not Dividing Tubers Correctly

Next year’s flowers come from the tubers you dig up in the fall, so if you don’t do this step correctly, it can affect blooms. When you divide dahlia tubers, each one must contain an eye and part of the stem, or it won’t grow and flower. Divide carefully to ensure that each dahlia tuber you divide from the main clump has each of these.

Dahlias are beloved cottage flowers and cut flowers and provide impressive variety in petal structure, color and shape. However, larger dahlia varieties can require a great deal of space. If you don’t have the option of large beds and borders but still wish to grow dahlias, you will be wanting to try your hand at a few pot-friendly options. Fortunately there are some gorgeous compact and dwarf options that thrive in pots. Here are some of the best dahlias for pots, including pompon, anemone and single-petal varieties.

Choosing the Best Dahlias for Containers

If you’re hoping to grow dahlias in containers, the plant’s anticipated size at maturity should be your top priority. Though it is possible to grow tall dahlia varieties in pots, it is generally not advised. Still, a wide range of dwarf dahlias for pots are available. There’s plenty of choice in color, flower form and habit.

Decorative and ball types are amongst the best dahlias for pots. Take special note of each plant's hardiness, planning whether to grow tubers as annuals or perennials. You also need to give some thought to the type of container, making sure yours have good drainage holes. So, which dahlias are best for pots? Here are a few of the most vivid, long-flowering and adaptable for different container situations.

1. ‘Bishop of Llandaff’

Known for its stunning purple-black foliage, ‘Bishop of Llandaff’ dahlias are especially well suited to container culture. Brilliant red flowers open in large numbers, attracting hummingbirds as well as beneficial insects.

With routine dahlia deadheading, you can expect blooms from these stunning compact dahlias to bloom through summer and all the way to fall. You’ll find a range of red dahlias at Burpee, including red-petal ‘Cornel’ and ‘The Big Wow’ dahlias.

2. ‘Gallery’ Series

Bred specifically for use in pots and containers, you can find the ‘Gallery’ series of dahlias in a range of colors (the dahlia pictured here is ‘Art Nouveau’). Though compact in nature, you can expect an abundance of blooms that keep coming for months. These are some of the best dahlia plants for container gardening.

Large, semi-double flowers make for an especially attractive addition to porches, patios and other gathering spaces. You can buy ‘Leonardo’ in the Series at Walmart, along with other options. You’ll find some equally impressive dahlias at the Proven Winners website, including gorgeous salmon ‘Pinkerific’.

3. ‘Happy Days Mix’

The ‘Happy Days Mix’ is beloved for its vibrancy of color. Bright, single blooms are born atop tall stems. That said, mature plants remain compact, and you should be able to keep them flowering all through summer.

These container plants are especially attractive to pollinators and a wide range of beneficial insects. You’ll find some equally striking dahlia options at Amazon.com, including varieties you can start from seed or bulbs.

4. ‘Impression’ Series

The ‘Impression’ series of dahlias are collarette types, where the main petals of each flowerhead come with a smaller ring of shorter petals. These dahlias produce an abundance of pollen, beloved of pollinators. Dwarf plants work well in pots, serving as filler or focal flowers in mixed containers. There are a few other collarettes, plus anemone and pompon dahlias at Walmart.

5. ‘Karma Sangria’

‘Karma Sangria’ dahlias are treasured for their bright pink and yellow two-tone color and distinctive cactus form. Flowering continues through summer, ceasing only with the arrival of cooler temperatures.

This variety makes an excellent choice for container gardening, as well as the cut flower garden. You’ll find a few more striking cactus and semi-cactus dahlias at Burpee, including ‘Lisonette’ with its two-tone red and yellow effect.

6. ‘Melody Mambo’

Reaching only 22in (55cm) at maturity, ‘Melody Mambo’ is ideal for use in pots and containers. Those in search of highly saturated colorful plants are certain to be pleased by the variety's fiery red tones. The plant’s beauty is furthered only by its full double blooms, which are held high above foliage.

Consistent moisture throughout summer is key to the creation of lasting floral displays. If you love the hot colors of ‘Melody Mambo’, you will also love similarly hot tinted ‘Babylon Purple’ and ‘LeBella Maggiore’ dahlias at Burpee.

7. ‘Park Princess’

Favored among growers for its dwarf habit, ‘Park Princess’ is best when grown near porches and patios. Here, guests and passersby can appreciate this dahlia’s large, pink cactus-like blooms. Strong stems make this plant well-suited to a cut flower garden, as well as a gorgeous pink flower focal piece in pots and containers.

You can expect tubers to begin blooming quickly, continuing with vigor through summer. Aficionados of pink flowers will love some of the other pink dahlia options available at Walmart, including ‘Way of Life’ and ‘Happy Butterfly’.

8. ‘Totally Tangerine’

Popular amongst cutting enthusiasts, ‘Totally Tangerine’ remains one of the most sought-after dahlias for containers. This is largely due to its subtle pastel tones and unique anemone-like flower form.

This variety performs well in a container. You can look forward to sensational summer flowers in pots, provided the container can accommodate its robust root system. Lovers of orange, bronze and peach petals will find more interesting dahlia selections at Burpee.

9. ‘Waltzing Mathilda’

Like other semi-double types, ‘Waltzing Mathilda’ dahlias are certain to yield armloads of distinguished blooms through summer and early fall. Stems are held brightly above foliage, adding height and appeal to mixed containers.

Provided you carry out regular deadheading, you can expect consistent performance and bloom, ceasing only with the arrival of the first frost. There are plenty more vivid orange and peach dahlias at Walmart, which stocks a range of bulbs.

Few plants match the appeal of dahlias. This ornamental beauty has staggering potential for reblooming and continued flowering – long after other summer favorites start to fade. Anyone hoping to grow dahlias for the first time will be enamored by their enduring beauty. But in order to help you make the most of their extended bloom times, it’s important to know how to keep dahlias flowering for as long as possible.

The sooner you can take steps to maximize the blooming season, the better. Ongoing care is relatively minimal, no matter which dahlia varieties you decide to grow. That said, a few simple cultivation essentials will help to keep your plants looking their best. So start now, and follow these simple measures to guarantee a gorgeous extended season of memorable dahlia displays.

How Do Dahlias Bloom All Summer?

Will dahlias bloom all summer? Absolutely – as long as you are willing to put in a little bit of care, and start as you mean to go on. In terms of initial planting, dahlias perform best when situated in well-draining soil, with ample light through the day. Though growers can expect beds to thrive when conditions are warm, excess heat or drought may negatively impact bloom. This is even more of an issue if you are growing in pots. So if you want longer flowering times, take action fast.

The dahlia flowering period may also vary by species, with many native flower types differing from those most frequently cultivated in the home garden. While they are praised for being prolific, these five essential tips for dahlia care in summer will greatly improve your chances of seeing those beautiful blooms for a lot longer…

1. Cutting, Deadheading and Pinching

Learning how to get more flowers on dahlias often begins with pinching. This occurs in spring, as dahlia tubers begin to sprout. Trim or cut the growth tip when each plant has 4-6 sets of true leaves. This allows it to begin branching, resulting in bushier growth and an increased production of flowers.

Routine cutting throughout summer will continue the process, allowing each plant to become larger and larger. Snipping flowering stems as cut flowers is especially helpful in promoting further bloom, removing stems as soon as flowers open. You'll find a good set of pruners, like the Felco F6 Hand Pruners from Amazon, useful for dahlia cutting and snipping.

You can also promote further bloom through routine dahlia deadheading. Deadheading refers to the removal of spent or faded flowers, preventing each from forming seeds. This can be done on a weekly basis, disposing of and removing discarded plant matter from the garden.

Lightly cutting back dahlias in summer, once flowering has slowed, is another viable option. This is especially useful as a way to encourage rebloom as the weather begins to cool in late summer.

2. Watering Your Dahlias

Taking steps to water dahlia plants regularly will be an essential aspect of ongoing summer care. This is especially true in regions that are particularly hot or experience prolonged periods of drought. The use of proper watering techniques is also crucial. It’s best to water plants deeply and from below, aiming for at least an inch (2.5cm) of water per week.

Using soaker hoses or drip irrigation lines in beds and raised beds will allow you to regulate water intake. This Rain Bird Drip Irrigation Watering Kit from Amazon would do the job nicely. If growing in containers, make sure the growing medium is not allowed to dry completely. Try mulching around plants to cool garden soil and aid in the regulation of moisture levels.

3. Boost Dahlia Fertility

Dahlias are considered heavy feeders. Routine applications of appropriate dahlia fertilizer can help to boost growth and promote continued bloom through summer and into fall. For a measured approach, apply a balanced, slow-release feed at planting time. This will aid in the production of leaves and rapid root development.

Continue feeding through the growing season, deploying soil drenches and fast-acting foliar feeds. That said, although plants will benefit greatly from nutrient-rich soils, take care to avoid overfeeding. Excess levels of nitrogen are problematic to dahlias, resulting in lush growth but poor flower set.

4. Shade on Hot Summer Days

Most dahlias will perform best if they receive full sun throughout the day, but exposure to excessive heat may negatively impact the production of flowers. It is for this reason that some growers choose to plant in partly shaded locations. If you are growing dahlias in containers, move to a shady spot when temperatures soar. Alternatively, use shade cloth to protect plants during heat waves and very hot days.

While dahlias do thrive in full sun, it is highly beneficial to intervene where necessary to prevent problems related to scorch or burn. Flowering can slow during periods of high heat or humidity, but bloom should resume as growing conditions improve.

5. Check for Pests & Problems

Provided other growing conditions are ideal, problems with pests or diseases are likely the cause of limited flowering. Fungal infections like powdery mildew are most common, while problems like gall or viral infections may lead to the loss of plants. One of the best ways to prevent the likelihood of diseases like powdery mildew is to make sure there is good air flow between plants, whether in containers or beds.

Aphids, mites and thrips may all frequent the plant, feeding on its sap. Earwigs are a particular concern for dahlia growers, causing considerable damage to blooms and limiting the chances of further flowering. Ensure growing conditions are well ventilated and well lit, as earwigs are attracted to the damp and dark. If you suspect an infestation, try upturned pots filled with newspaper to trap earwigs which can then be removed.

Frequently Asked Questions

Dahlias are one of many summer-blooming bulbs that can keep ornamental growers swimming in flowers well into fall. Technically grown from tubers, thousands of named varieties of dahlia exist. These cultivars range widely in bloom size, form, and color

Though dahlia care is fairly easy, there are some key bits of information that gardeners must follow to produce the best floral display possible. Among these important points is the process of understanding how and when to deadhead dahlias, when to pinch them back, and how to cut dahlias for more blooms. Let us explore each of these topics in greater detail.

Pinching Back Dahlias

Encouraging dahlias to have a long blooming period begins early in the season, not long after planting dahlias, or when overwintered tubers have developed new growth. Many experienced gardeners choose to remove or “pinch” the growth tip of the dahlia plant. This ensures that the plant will begin to branch and become bushier by producing multiple new slimmer stems, rather than a small number of thick, hollow stems. Later in the summer, these bushier plants will be able to produce an abundance of blooms.

Not only does pinching out dahlias increase the number of blooms, but it will extend the flowering period too, as with so many buds the opening will be staggered across the plant. This will help to ensure that your dahlias keep blooming through the fall.

• To pinch out dahlias, wait until the plant has grown to at least 8 inches in height and has at least 3-5 sets of leaves.
• Identify the central – apical – bud on the main stem, which should be the largest.
• Using sharp, sterilized hand pruners – or your fingers – cut or pinch off the main bud, taking the stem back to just above a set of leaves. We recommend using these Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Amazon.
• As the plant continues to grow, remove all but five shoots from the plant.

Removing stems and buds from your burgeoning plant may seem brutal, but the dahlia will soon begin to form strong new lateral shoots, and come summer the plant will be full of flower heads.

Bear in mind, you will need to fertilize dahlias to get the most out of your plants. Do this prior to planting, then a month later, and again the following month. Water frequently and remove any weeds from around the plant. This organic Flower Girl Bud & Bloom Booster from Amazon is a great option.

How to Deadhead Dahlias

Once plants have begun flowering, you will need to turn your attention to deadheading dahlias. The term deadheading refers to the removal of spent or faded blooms. Removing them from the plant will prevent the production of seeds and encourage the formation of new buds.

In addition to helping to maintain the vigor of dahlia plantings, deadheading is essential to keep growing beds clean and tidy. Tidy beds may also help to keep plants free of disease, insect pressure, and other plant stressors.

The following rules can be used to deadhead all dahlia varieties:

• To deadhead dahlias, you will first need to learn how to spot spent blooms, as they can look similar to unopened flowers. New flower buds will look fresh and round, while spent blooms will appear pointer, and will feel softer if you apply pressure. There may also be one or two petals poking out through the center of spent flower heads.
• Once the dahlia blooming season has begun, check over your plants at least once a week to spot dead or fading flowers.
• Ideally, remove them as soon as they begin to wilt, which enables the plant to put as much energy as possible into producing new blooms.
• Using sterilized hand pruners, cut the flower stem down to the nearest set of leaves and dispose of the clippings. We recommend using these Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Amazon.
• Where there are multiple blooms on one stem, just remove the individual dead flower heads until the others have finished blooming, then cut the whole stem back to the next set of leaves.
• Keep deadheading through summer and fall until the plant stops producing flowers.

Harvesting Dahlias as Cut Flowers

Dahlia blooms make excellent long-lasting cut flowers. Fortunately for growers, cutting the stems will only encourage the plants to produce more buds.

To cut flowers for a vase, growers should wait until the bloom has opened on the plant. This is essential, as most dahlia varieties will not continue to open after the stem has been cut. As with pinching, cut stems will continue to branch and produce flowers until the end of the growing season.

Experienced dahlia growers may also wish to use a technique called “disbudding” to increase the size and quality of each individual bloom. This involves removing the smaller buds in favor of the larger central buds.

Dahlias come in a stunning range of shapes, sizes and colors. Cactus dahlia varieties are a particularly striking group of plants. Each cactus dahlia is a double flower and is characterized by petals that curve in along their lengths. The semi-cactus dahlia is similar. Each petal curves in about halfway down its length, while the petals of the cactus varieties are curved for the entire length.

Both these dahlia plant types add impact and drama, while holding their own in bad weather. The half-effort gives a semi-cactus dahlia flower a fluffier look. Look for cactus dahlia bulbs (or tubers) in any of the varieties listed below, and add a dramatic new flower to your beds or containers.

Choosing the Best Cactus Dahlia Varieties

If you want to try this striking flower in your garden, there are several types of cactus dahlia and semi-cactus dahlia to choose from. Most semi- and cactus dahlia varieties are tall, rising to over three feet (90cm).

In addition to their interesting blooms, they are useful for being sturdy and stand up well to bad weather. So while you might have to protect other dahlias from falling, these types don't usually require staking. Here are a few of the most note-worthy cactus dahlias to try.

1. Chat Noir

French for ‘black cat’, this is one of the most striking black dahlia varieties you can grow. It is a deep black-red that can appear fully black towards the center of the flower. It flowers from June until October, although it can last as late as the first frost.

2. Frigoulet

For a dramatic double color, these gorgeous bloomers convey a real ‘raspberry ripple’ effect, with rich red petals and white tips. Dynamic in the fronts of borders, it blooms from July until well into the fall and has impressive longevity as a cut flower.

3. Karma Bon Bini

Also double colored, this variety has fiery red-orange petals and sunshine yellow centers. Looking like a solidified explosion, these flowers set beds and borders alight from midsummer until fall. Individual flower heads can reach four inches in diameter.

4. Henriette

For a gentler, softer garden palate, try this semi-cactus dahlia. Rippled petals present with smoky blush-orange hues and butter-cream centers. Rising on strong, elongated stems, it flowers from July until the first frost and only gets better with age.

5. My Love

Taking on the appearance of spiked snowballs, this is a gorgeous dahlia choice if you are looking for the best white flowers to grow. This brilliant white cactus-type fades to a lemon yellow and lime center, and it blooms from July until October.

6. Karma Corona

Unique in tone and texture, this pretty semi-cactus fuses appealing tones of mango and peach along its petal spikes. Soft melon-pink spikes fade to chewy yellow centers. Massive flower heads will continue to develop from July until first frost.

7. Karma Pink Corona

A gorgeous companion plant to Karma Corona, so grow this alongside its peachy relative to create the perfect partnership of pinks and yellows. With violet pink spikes blending to bubblegum centers, this dahlia type also flowers from July to October.

Frequently Asked Questions

With thousands of named cultivars available, dahlias are an essential addition to many ornamental gardens. Providing growers with a profusion of blooms all season long, it is easy to understand why dahlias are so popular. In fact, these plants are available in nearly every color, with only a few notable exceptions. Though there is no true black dahlia flower, many varieties can offer growers that same highly sought after deep and dramatic color profile. 

Black Dahlia Flowers

The most intensely colored dahlias range in color from deep purple to very dark burgundy. Though their shades can be quite eye-catching, black dahlia flower care is quite the same as for other cultivars and requires no special maintenance by growers to tend to color. Below, we have outlined some of our favorite varieties of dahlia with black leaves and/or dark blooms. 

1. Black Jack Dahlia - Black Jack is a large decorative black dahlia flower. Each bud first opens in a rich shade of dark red, which gradually lightens and fades as the flower ages. When deadheaded frequently, Black Jack dahlia plants will continue to bloom until the arrival of the first frost in the fall. 
2. Black Monarch Dahlia - With this variety of dahlia flower, black buds open to produce immense 10 inch (25 cm.) blooms. Similar to Black Jack in color, massive blooms create a stunning visual display. Black Monarch dahlias are also a welcome addition to cut flower arrangements, due to their long vase life. 
3. Karma Chocolate Dahlia - Karma Chocolate is often considered to be among the most popular types of dahlia with black leaves. These leaves, in tandem with their chocolate-burgundy flowers, are ideal for gardeners who wish to impart dramatic beauty into flower beds. 
4. Knight Hawk Dahlia - Yet another deep red variety of dahlia, Knight Hawk dahlia plants often appear to beautifully shift color in the garden, depending upon light conditions. With proper pinching and deadheading, tubers will produce healthy vigorous bushes covered in large blooms.
5. Mystic Illusion Dahlia - Mystic Illusion is a variety of black leaf dahlia that can create stunning visual contrast in the garden. Though single yellow blooms are much smaller than other types, intense purple-black foliage can make an impressive statement in borders. Many of these smaller dahlia types are also ideal for growth in pots and in containers. 

For many cut-flower growers or ornamental gardeners, dahlias are among their most prized plants. Ranging in size, shape, and color; there is likely a variety of dahlia that perfectly suits every design aesthetic. While huge dinnerplate type blooms can reach over 10 inches (25 cm.) other, more petite, pompon varieties can provide equally stunning visual impact.

One such cultivar, called ‘Little Beeswing’ dahlia, can add a vibrant pop of intense color to the garden one season after another. Not only will you enjoy this plant, but the pollinators will appreciate the bright blooms too.

About Little Beeswing Pompon Dahlias

Little Beeswing dahlias are a pompon (or pompom) type of dahlia plant. Pompon references the shape and size of the flower. Blooms of these plants have small, ball-like flowers which curve inward.

With flowers reaching sizes of around 2 inches (5 cm.) in diameter, bright and cheerful Little Beeswing dahlia blooms are sure to be a garden delight. While flower coloration will range, most blooms feature intense yellow shades with orange-red edging around each petal.

Growing Little Beeswing Dahlias

The best way to begin growing Little Beeswing dahlia plants is by purchasing tubers. Purchasing and planting the Little Beeswing pompon dahlia tubers will ensure they grow true to type. When it comes to dahlia plant care, it is important to understand their growing conditions. Since dahlia plants are tender, those wishing to plant them will need to wait until all chance of frost has passed.

Though dahlia tubers can be started indoors, you’ll get better results by planting the tubers directly into the ground when soil temperatures are at least 60 degrees F. (16 C.). This is especially important as excessively cold, or wet soil, may cause the tuber to rot. Plants should be situated in garden beds with rich, well-draining soil and receive full sun.

Beyond planting, those growing Little Beeswing dahlias will need to pinch and stake the plant. Pinching refers to the removal of the top of the main stem. This is generally done when the plant has at least four sets of true leaves. Pinching encourages new growth and later will help the plant produce more flower blooms. Tall dahlia plants often topple over. For this reason, many growers choose to stake the plants. This can be done in a variety of ways, most commonly with wooden stakes or horizontal trellis netting.

Routine watering is essential to dahlia plant care. Little Beeswing dahlias are no exception to this, as they will require irrigation throughout the growing season. For many this is achieved through the use of drip irrigation on a timer. Maintaining consistent moisture will be imperative to success when growing in regions with especially hot summer temperatures.

For many flower gardeners, the range and diversity of each type of plant is quite intriguing. The inclusion of dahlias in the flower patch is certainly no exception. Planting and collecting this beautiful flower will provide unique colors, patterns, sizes, and shapes.

Collarette dahlia varieties, for instance, can easily add appeal to flower borders and cut flower gardens. Exactly what are Collarette dahlias though?

Collarette Dahlia Info

With thousands of cultivars, dahlias are among the most dynamic options for the flower garden. Ranging in size from dinnerplate to pompon, dahlia flowers can quickly become an obsession.

Collarette dahlia varieties produce a flower with a very specific structure. Collarette dahlia blooms are flat with a small inner ring of flower petals around the center. Flowers may be solid or bicolor but are generally small. The size of Collarette dahlias makes them ideal for borders and informal plantings.

How to Grow Collarette Dahlias

Learning how to grow Collarette dahlias is similar to growing other dahlia types. Collarette dahlia varieties will need to be grown from tubers, as dahlias grown from seed may not grow true to type.

Before planting, familiarize yourself with the growing conditions of your garden. Though dahlias can be left in the ground in many regions, others may grow the plants as annuals, which are dug and overwintered indoors.

Dahlias are tender plants. This means that gardeners should wait until the soil has warmed and all chance of frost has passed before planting. Garden soils which are excessively cold or wet may cause the tubers to rot. If cool spring conditions are an issue, those with short growing seasons can start plants indoors before transplanting out into the garden.

Like all dahlias, Collarette dahlia varieties will require frequent irrigation throughout the growing season. This will be especially important in regions where summer temperatures are high.

Once established in the garden, pinching back the dahlias will help to produce plants which are fuller and will produce more blooms. Depending upon the cultivar, staking may be required in regions with high winds or particularly strong storms.

Popular Collarette dahlia varieties include:

• Awaikoe
• Double Trouble
• Jack-o-Lantern
• Mrs. H. Brown
• Teesbrooke Audrey

Planting dahlias in the garden is an excellent way to add dramatic color to your space. Coming in various sizes and flower shapes, it is easy to see why dahlia plants are so appealing to novice gardeners, as well as those with impressive established plantings. Since these plants require some specialized care, it is important to become familiar with their needs. Among these include knowing how and when to water dahlias, which will help ensure success in the upcoming growing season.

Should I Water Dahlia Tubers?

Unlike many other garden flowers, which are grown from seed or transplant, dahlias are most commonly grown from tubers. Similar to bulbs, tubers are planted into the ground after all chance of frost has passed in the spring. Though some growers choose to pre-sprout the tubers, others may plant the dormant tubers directly into the ground. When conditions are right, growth points (“eyes”) on the tubers signal the development of leaves and roots.

Care should be taken when planting dormant tubers, as these can easily rot if conditions are not ideal. Rotting tubers are most commonly caused by soil conditions that are either too cold, too wet, or a combination of both. In most cases, tubers do not need additional water at planting.

You should only water the tuber after planting if the soil is dry. If dry conditions do exist, water the tuber once and then wait for growth to occur.

When to Water Dahlias

When considering dahlia watering, needs can vary greatly depending upon the growing conditions. Once the tuber has started to grow, consistent dahlia plant irrigation is required in order to promote lush growth and prolific bloom period. For many, this means watering dahlia plants one to three times each week.

When watering dahlia plants, always make sure to avoid wetting the plant foliage. This will help to decrease the likelihood of disease. Dahlia plant irrigation routines should focus on long and deep watering sessions. This process will promote stronger, studier plants and better root growth.

By making sure to meet dahlia watering needs, you will be rewarded with bright and colorful blooms all summer long.

One day your flowers look great, the next morning you notice your dahlias with powdery mildew all over their leaves. This grayish white, talc-like growth is caused by a fungus and is a fairly common problem. It generally doesn't kill the host plant, but the leaves can become distorted, discolored, withered, and fall off.

What is Dahlia Flower Powdery Mildew?

Many species of fungi can cause powdery mildew in ornamental plants. Golovinomyces cichoracearum (formerly Erysiphe cichoracearum) has been identified as the fungus species that commonly infects the dahlia flower. Powdery mildew doesn't generally spread to flowers in other plant families, as the various species of fungi are host specific.

Powdery mildew on dahlias is often precipitated by high humidity (over 95%), moderate ambient temperatures in the 68 to 86 degrees F. (20-30 C.) range, and low light conditions. Outbreaks are common in the spring and fall due to the wide variation of ambient temperatures during a 24 hour period. This invasive fungus is also a common problem in greenhouses where it infects healthy plants by colonizing on the surface of the leaves. 

Controlling Dahlia Powdery Mildew

When it comes to powdery mildew on dahlias, preventing the spread of fungi spores is the key. Powdery mildew spores are transported by air movement or water splashing. Once the spores land on neighboring dahlia leaves, they germinate. The fungus obtains nutrients by penetrating the plant's epidermis with haustori, which are specialized feeding structures.

Removing and properly disposing of infected foliage is the best method for controlling dahlia powdery mildew. In the greenhouse setting, weeds and volunteers can serve as a host for the fungus. The fungus can also overwinter on plant debris. Annual fall cleanup is recommended for outside flower beds.

Best management practices also include:

• Improving air circulation around plants. Avoid overcrowding of seedlings in the greenhouse. Leave adequate space around dahlias when planting outdoors.
• Water in the morning so the sun's heat can dry the plants leaves. Better yet, water the ground at the base of plant rather than spraying the leaves. Limit the practice of plant misting in greenhouses.
• Sanitize and disinfect pots, planters, trays, and tools.

Fungicides are also useful in eradicating dahlia powdery mildew. Treatment should begin as soon as the problem is detected. Apply these products every seven to ten days. (For outside beds, reapply after rain). Be sure to thoroughly saturate the surface of the leaves for the best efficiency.

Continued use of fungicides in the same chemical class can create resistant strains of fungus. Alternating fungicides and limiting applications of any one chemical will be necessary for continual dahlia powdery mildew treatment.

For organic control of powdery mildew on dahlias, a sulfur solution can be used. This works by creating an inhospitable environment for the fungus, so resistance isn't a problem. Gardeners should avoid using sulfur when the ambient temperature is above 85 degrees F. (29 C.), as this can cause plant injury. Sulfur fungicides are commercially available.

How big are dinnerplate dahlias? The name says it all; these are dahlias that produce huge blooms of up to 12 inches (31 cm.) across. Like other dahlias, these flowers bloom consistently for weeks and add beautiful color to beds. They are also great for cutting and making stunning floral arrangements.

What are Dinnerplate Dahlias?

The dinnerplate dahlia (also spelled dinner plate) is simply a variety of dahlia that produces big, plate-sized blooms. You can find them in a range of colors and forms, and they are essentially just larger versions of the many varieties of dahlia. Dahlias are already spectacular and showy flowers, so adding dinnerplate varieties to your beds adds even more drama. Dahlias offer a greater range of color and form than most other flower types, so if you want some dinnerplate blooms in your garden, you have a lot of options. Some examples of spectacular dinnerplate dahlia flowers include:

• ‘American Dream’ – This variety produces large pink double blooms with darker pink stripes.
• ‘Babylon Bronze’ – This one is also a double bloom, but it comes in a stunning pale orange color.
• ‘Taihejo’ – ‘Taihejo’ flowers are streaked with pink and white and have petals that are twisted.
• ‘Café au Lait’ – This subtle stunner produces creamy white to peach flowers.
• ‘Contraste’ – ‘Contraste’ flowers are deep red with white at the tip of each petal.

Growing Dinnerplate Dahlias

Dinnerplate dahlia care is just about the same as caring for any type of dahlia. Since the blooms are so large, though, staking and support may be more important with these varieties. Watch your flowers and use stakes or some other type of support if they start to lean or flop over. Whether you’re starting from seed or transplants, don’t put your flowers outside until you are sure there will be no more frosts. To get the biggest blooms from your dinnerplate varieties, choose a sunny spot with rich soil that drains well. Soggy soil will stunt their growth. These plants grow tall, up to four feet (1 m.), so also choose a site where they won’t overshadow other plants. Your soil for growing dahlias should be rich, but these flowers will also respond well to regular fertilizing. Use a typical flower fertilizer about twice a month. Water your dahlias if they are not getting about an inch (2.5 cm.) of rainfall per week. Deadhead the spent blooms as they expire and you will enjoy dinnerplate dahlias from midsummer through the fall.

There is absolutely nothing like a big bed of dahlia flowers. The blooms come in many colors and sizes, giving any gardener's taste an outlet. When planning your bed, it's a good idea to consider what to plant with dahlias. Dahlia companion plants can be the perfect accents to set off the flowers but may also aid in deterring pests or even act as a decoy and sacrifice themselves to insect predators. There are many flowers that complement dahlia and do double duty to prevent pests.

Dahlia Companion Plants

Dahlias grow from tubers and produce flowers that range in size from dinner plate giants to diminutive discs. Dahlias are perennials and work well in a mixed perennial bed. Consider the huge water needs of these plants when selecting companions for dahlia. Plants can also grow several feet (0.5 to 1 m.) tall and nearly as wide. Lower plants should be able to tolerate some shade and taller plants can be used at the rear of the bed as an accent.

Herbs and Flowers that Complement Dahlia

Choose plants that assist dahlias by repelling pests so the garden bed is free of insects and dahlia health is protected. Herbs are often good choices, as many of them have pungent scents and oils which seem to deter pests.

• Artemisia has glorious silvery foliage that is finely cut and will repel slugs while setting off the lacy foliage of the dahlias. Creeping comfrey tolerates light shade and may also deter slugs.
• Coriander and anise are nice to have in the kitchen garden but also repel aphids, and anise will attract predatory wasps, which kill those sucking insects.
• Other herbal companions for dahlia might be mint, thyme, and rosemary.

Annuals and perennials can coexist peacefully in an ornamental dahlia bed.

• Nasturtiums are notoriously riotous growers with fiery, colorful blooms and repellent properties. You can even eat the spicy flowers.
• Salvia, or flowering sage, produces bright spikes of color which are magnets for pollinators like butterflies and moths.
• Similarly a large clump of Monarda, or bee balm, will bring bees buzzing around the flowers.
• Geraniums have a slightly unpleasant smell but unparalleled flowers in the garden and are toxic to aphids, but attract Japanese beetles in a self-sacrifice that can spare the dahlias.
• Try mixing in old-fashioned bloomers like roses, peony, and lilies for ageless elegance.

As you choose other perennial companions for dahlia, remember to check the size of your plants. Since most dahlia plants form large bushes, taller plants will set them off nicely if installed as a backdrop. Towering joe pye weed, butterfly bush, and agapanthus are excellent vertical choices to brighten up the background of dahlias. Sunflowers seek the sun's warmth as much as dahlias and will thrive in the same garden bed, adding their cheery faces as part of the area's charm. Helenium, marguerite daisies, and goldenrod are other taller plants to add height. Tumble a scattering of annuals in the front of the tubers such as petunia, marigold, ageratum, and bacopa to add a rainbow of color while pulling the whole effect together.

Dahlias are true summertime standouts in the landscape. The sheer array of size, color and form make these wonderful tubers a garden favorite, both easy to grow and multiplying over time. Dahlias are most commonly started from tubers, but you can collect seed and increase your favorite flowers over time. You will need a little patience though, as dahlia flower seeds take several seasons to produce blooms, but the effort is fun and can yield some surprising results from these naturally hybridizing plants.

Dahlia Seeds vs. Bulbs

Dahlia tubers are common in nurseries and seed catalogs. They are the fastest and most reliable way to grow big, boisterous blooms. Growing the flowers using dahlia seed vs. bulbs may take a little more time but is a great way to extend your crop of the dazzlers. Knowing how to plant dahlia seeds isn't hard, but there are a few tips for guaranteed success and riots of colorful blooms. Save your seed for inexpensive consistent dahlia season after season. Dahlias most accurately grow from tubers which, like bulbs, are underground storage organs containing the DNA or blueprint of the plant. Vegetative methods of propagation result in true copies of the parent plant while seeded propagation is prey to the capriciousness of nature and may result in slightly different versions of the parent. For this reason, starting dahlia seeds is not a method favored by collectors and champion breeders. You just never know what you are going to get. Dahlia flower seeds are produced in prolific amounts on the plants, but most gardeners simply protect the tubers and replant them the next year as a surefire way to keep a favored species. However, the adventurous gardener may want to save some of that seed and see what the next season brings. It might be a bloom that surpasses its parent in beauty and form.

How to Plant Dahlia Seeds

It can take a full season for you to see flowers on your seeded dahlias. Do dahlia seeds turn into tubers? In the first year, slender tubers will form but they will not be anything worth harvesting and will need another year or two to develop good growth nodes and produce bodacious plants. The first step to starting dahlia seeds is harvesting ripe, ready pods. Pods contain numerous seeds. Wait until the flower has dropped all its ray petals and the pod is a light tan-green color. The seeds inside should be ripe and gray to dark brown. Cut the pod off and let it dry to facilitate removal of the seeds. Separate the seed from the rest of the pod and allow let dry before storing. In early spring, germinate the seeds in soilless seed starting mixture in flats. Sow your seeds an inch (2.5 cm.) apart on the surface of the mixture and cover lightly with a dusting of the medium. Moisten the medium and keep moderately damp, moving the flats to a warm location of at least 70 degrees F. (21 C.). Germination will occur in 7 to 12 days after sowing. Once the seedlings are large enough that their leaves are touching, individually pot them up in 3-inch (7.5 cm.) containers. Harden the seedlings off before planting them out into prepared garden beds. Wait to plant them outdoors until all danger of frost has passed. Alternatively, you can plant them outdoors a week before the date of the last frost. In northern climates this may not give the plants enough time to develop and bloom. It works great in long season areas, however. If cold temperatures threaten at the end of summer, repot the plants and move them into a greenhouse or indoors. They won't have much tuber development, and the best way to save them for next season is to let them go dormant indoors where icy temperatures can't damage the tiny root and tuber system. Harden them off the next season and plant outdoors. You will get big beautiful plants with plenty of appealing flowers that will set pods and start the whole growing dahlia seeds process over anew.

You don't have to be a collector to appreciate the wide range of color and form found in the dahlia family. These exciting and diverse blooms are fairly easy to grow, but there are a few problems with dahlia that may limit their production and even their health. Dahlia pests and diseases are usually confined to sucking insects and fungal problems but a few diseases can actually kill the tubers. Watch for common dahlia problems and nip them in the bud quickly for continued blooms and healthy plants.

Common Dahlia Problems

No matter how experienced you are as a gardener, some issues will arise with your plants. Those amazing flowers known as dahlias are no exception. Among the most common dahlia diseases are those caused by fungi, such as powdery mildew and gray mold. Dahlia flower pests tend to reflect the sap drinking forms but can also encompass leaf eaters such as a wide array of caterpillars and larvae. Knowing what to watch for is half the battle in keeping your prized plants healthy and beautiful. Healthy, chubby tubers are crucial to big bountiful dahlias. You will have little chance of huge bunches of flowers if your tubers are scrawny, moldy or rotting. Start with healthy tubers first. The first signs of trouble in your plants is often just as they sprout and develop leaves. It is common to find new leaves completely chewed, lacy and barely still there. The culprits are usually caterpillars or some form of larvae. These feed on leaf tissue and make Swiss cheese of the foliage, diminishing the plant's ability to intake solar energy. Hand picking may be the solution to beating these types of problems with dahlia. Fungal issues such as powdery mildew are another universal complaint. Avoid overhead watering and use a horticultural fungicide.

Dahlia Diseases

More sinister complications can arise in your dahlias which can sometimes kill the plant permanently. These may include:

• Stem rot – Stem rot occurs when dahlias are growing in heavy, poorly drained, wet soil. Look for a white ring in the soil around the stem. The rot will creep in and kill the stem and advance down into the soil to kill the tubers.
• Mosaic virus – Mosaic virus dwarfs plants and distorts leaves. You must destroy the plant, as there is no cure.
• Botrytis – Botrytis blight is almost as bad and causes buds to rot and covers the plant with powdery gray mold. Remove any affected part and destroy it.
• Aster yellows – Leafhoppers, which are frequently found on plants, are the vector for Aster yellows, a disease where leaf-like tissue forms where you should be getting flower buds. Plants are sadly a loss.
• Viral issues – Problems with dahlias also include verticillium wilt and necrotic spot virus. Infected soil causes the former and leaves become black, brown or greenish-brown. Necrotic spot virus is caused by the feeding of thrips.

Dahlia Pests

Numerous insect pests find dahlias delicious. In addition to the caterpillars and larvae, sucking insects are probably going to be the biggest issue with the most widespread offenders being:

• Aphids
• Thrips
• Mites
• Leafhoppers

Although these are relatively tiny pests, their habit of sucking sap from the plant can diminish its health, cause stunting and distorted plant parts and even transmit disease. Horticultural soaps and blasts of water can minimize their presence. Several types of borer are also dahlia flower pests. Systemic fertilizers may offer some protection if applied early in the season. Slugs, snails and cutworms produce topical damage that is visually obvious and reduces plant health and attractiveness. Hunt at night with a flashlight and use the "squish" method of pest control for cutworms. Slugs and snails may be controlled with diatomaceous earth or slug baits. As if there weren't enough dahlia pests and diseases, the tubers are very susceptible to freezes, which makes the plants a challenge, but a worthy one, to northern gardeners.

Dahlias, available in an incredible range of sizes, colors, and forms, grace your garden from midsummer to the first frost in autumn. Dahlias aren’t as difficult to grow as you may think, but proper care may prevent certain dahlia flower diseases. Read on to learn more about a few of the most common diseases in dahlias.

Common Dahlia Diseases

Below you will find the most common diseases in dahlia plants:

• Powdery mildew – This fungal disease is easy to spot by a mealy, powdery growth that appears on leaves, usually late in the growing season. Although powdery mildew is rarely fatal, it can definitely affect the appearance of the plant.
• Botrytis blight – A fungal disease commonly known as gray mold, botrytis blight is initially evidenced by brown, water-soaked spots that enlarge and develop a fuzzy, gray or tan mold as the disease progresses. Botrytis blight is often a problem in humid weather conditions.
• Wilt – Fusarium wilt and verticillium wilt are fungal diseases that cause wilted, yellowing leaves before the plant turns dark brown or black and eventually dies. Verticillium often appears when weather turns warm after a cool period, while fusarium is most severe when the soil is warm. Never plant new dahlias in affected soil.
• Stem rot – Dahlias planted in poorly drained, soggy soil are highly susceptible to stem rot. This deadly disease causes stems to become mushy and rotted.
• Viral diseases – Viruses are often transmitted by thrips, which burrow deep into the stems and buds. The diseases display lines, rings, a mottled appearance, and streaks of dark and light green, as well as wilted, stunted foliage. Infected plants are usually discarded, as thrips are notoriously difficult to control. Insecticidal soaps, neem oil, and botanical, pyrethrin-based products may help. If possible, avoid toxic insecticides that kill bees and other beneficial insects.

Dahlia Disease Control

With the exception of viral diseases, which are transmitted by insects, most common dahlia diseases are the result of damp, humid conditions, overwatering or poorly drained soil. The best way to control disease is to ensure soil is well drained and that plants aren’t crowded. Don’t water dahlia tubers until sprouts appear above the soil. After that time, a couple of deep waterings per week is usually adequate. Water at the base of the plant and avoid wetting the foliage. As far as dahlia disease treatment goes, some diseases, including powdery mildew and gray mold, can be treated by fungicides applied when the disease is first noticed. Fungicides can also be used as a preventive measure. Unfortunately, many diseases are fatal, and the best recourse is to start fresh with new, disease-resistant tubers.

Why won’t my dahlias bloom? It can be a problem for a lot of gardeners. Your plants may be spindly or lush, but there are no flowers in sight. It’s not uncommon, and there are a few things that might cause it. Keep reading to learn what causes no flowers on dahlia plants, and how to go about getting dahlias to bloom.

Why Won’t My Dahlias Bloom?

Getting dahlias to bloom may be as simple as getting their light and water requirements down. Dahlias bloom best in full sun, meaning at least six hours of direct sunlight every day. Even a little less than that means your dahlias produce only some flowers. Partial or more shade will probably mean your dahlias do not bloom at all. Water is another major cause of dahlias not flowering. If they don’t get enough water, dahlias do not bloom. If the soil around your dahlia is dry, moisten it to a depth of 1 inch (2.5 cm). Keep it from drying out between waterings by adding mulch. A common mistake that results in dahlias not flowering is over-fertilizing. Sometimes fertilizer is too much of a good thing, and lots of nitrogen will make for plenty of lush, green stems but few or no flowers. Feed your dahlias with fertilizer with little or no nitrogen-- you’re not growing it for the leaves.

Dahlia Buds Not Opening

If your dahlia produced some flowers but isn’t blooming anymore, or the buds don’t open, it might be because you’re not deadheading it. If you leave the blossoms where they die, the plant focuses its energy on producing seeds. If you remove the dead flowers, the plant didn’t get its seeds and will try again by growing more flowers. If you keep deadheading, you can keep it blooming all season.

There are 42 species of dahlia but innumerable hybrids. These Mexican flowering bushes are popular for their diversity of size and form. Dahlias are classed by their flower type and size. There still may be uncountable hybrids and cultivars within each class but at least it helps group them in an organized system. There are six dahlia varieties and seven form classes. Varieties of dahlia are divided by size and classes by flower shape. Read on to learn more.

Dahlia Plant Types

If you have ever been to a county fair, one of the biggest attractions is often the dahlia building. Here you can see a vast array of dahlia plant types, represented by their flowers. Serious collectors and hobbyists breed specific forms in an attempt to outdo each other on size and spectacle. The results are an ocean of color with amazing forms across the area. The different types of dahlia are astounding and mind numbing in their excess. The only way even expert growers can keep them all straight is by ordering the types of dahlia flowers into groups. The actual appearance of a dahlia plant is very similar among species. Most are small to large bushes with deeply cut leaves that stem from tubers. Plants require sun, well-drained soil, plenty of water, and good air circulation. Once you start trying to tell the difference between the species and hybrids, all other similarities become more vague. Dahlia varieties are divided into flower form classes. These indicate the shape of the flower and occasionally the character of the petals. The other method of separating the varieties of dahlia is by delineating by flower size. This method is a quick and fairly unsophisticated way to tell a class just by eyeballing the blooms.

Flower Form Classes

This way of dividing the species is poetic and requires observation.

• Decorative types may be informal or formal and bear blooms thick with petals that are usually flat but may be rolled.
• Pompoms and balls are just what they sound like. Round ball-shaped flowers with double flat spirally arranged petals. The ray petals are blunt and may be quill-like.
• Cactus types of dahlia flowers are one of the showiest. These blooms have incurved or rolled petals that are nearly straight. The effect is almost of a starburst.
• A broad class is the singles, semi-doubles, colarettes, and anemones. Each has a star-like appearance with flat petals and a distinctive disc.
• Orchid and peony are open centered flowers with one or more rows of ray flowers around a disc.
• Blooms with creased petals are in the stellar class and those with a closed center and flat, broad rows of ray florets are in the waterlily designation.

Flower Size Classification

Another way to order the different types of dahlia is by using their bloom sizes.

• The biggest flowers are in the giant category and may get nearly 10 inches (25 cm.) in diameter.
• The large flowered category gets just under this size at 8 inches (20 cm.).
• Medium flowered varieties are just under 8 inches (20 cm.) while small flowered varieties may one grow 4 inches (10 cm.) in width.
• There are also miniature at 1 ½ to 4 inches (4-10 cm.) and pompoms, which grow less than 1 ½ inch (4 cm.) in diameter.

Each of these is also divided into the cactus, colarette, or anemone, orchid, waterlily, stellar, and ball distinctions. In this way, the explosion of hybrids can be set into their individual class for an easier understanding of their origins and parent. This becomes extremely important for growers and those competing in breeding competitions. For those of us that simply enjoy the magnificent flowers, it is a fun way to describe some of the original forms of the amazing dahlia.

Dahlia tubers are expensive and some of the more exotic varieties can take a substantial bite out of your budget. The good news is, you can get a real bang for your buck by taking dahlia stem cuttings in late winter. Taking cuttings from dahlias can net you five to 10 plants from a single tuber. Let’s learn more about growing dahlia cuttings so you can enjoy even more beautiful dahlia plants each year.

Propagating Dahlias by Taking Stem Cuttings

Want to try your hand at rooting dahlia cuttings? Just follow these simple steps. Bring your tubers out of winter storage in late January or early February. For growing dahlia cuttings, choose the firmest, healthiest tubers. Place the tubers in a plastic bag and put the bag, with the top open, in a warm room for a couple of weeks. Note: This step isn’t absolutely necessary, but allowing the tubers to warm in this manner will speed sprouting. Fill a plastic planting tray to within an inch (2.5 cm.) of the top with damp potting mix or a mixture of half peat moss and half sand. For best results, use a tray with a depth of approximately 6 inches (15 cm.). Be sure the tray has several drainage holes. (If you’re only planting a few tubers, you can use plastic pots instead of a tray – one pot per tuber.) Plant the tubers in rows about 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm.) apart, with each stem 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) above the surface of the soil. Write the name of each dahlia on a plastic label and insert it next to the tuber. You can also write the name directly on the tuber before planting, using a regular pencil. Place the tubers in a warm, sunny room, but avoid direct sunlight. You can also place the tubers under fluorescent lights. Allow about 9 inches (22 cm.) between the top of the tubers and the light. Keep the planting medium slightly moist. Watch for eyes to appear, which generally takes about seven to ten days. However, some may sprout sooner, while others may take a month or more. When the shoots have three to four sets of leaves, they are ready to take cuttings. Use a sharp, sterile craft knife or razor blade to slice off a shoot with a narrow sliver of tuber about the width of a dime. Cut above the lowest node or joint to leave a bud on the tuber. Place the cutting on a clean cutting board and use the sharp knife to remove the lower leaves. Leave the top two leaves intact. Dip the bottom of the cutting in liquid or powdered rooting hormone. Place each dahlia cutting in a 3-inch (7.5 cm.) pot filled with a mixture of half potting mix and half sand. Place the pots in a warm room or on a warm propagation mat. You can also place them on top of a refrigerator or other warm appliance. Water as needed to keep the planting medium moist, but not soggy. Watch for the cuttings to root in two to three weeks. At this point, you can allow them to develop a bit more, or you can plant them outdoors if weather permits. New shoots will form from the remaining bud on the original parent tuber. After about a month, you can take more cuttings from the tuber. Continue taking cuttings until you have all you need, or when the cuttings are weak or too thin.

You don't need to be a collector to appreciate the many colors and forms of dahlia flowers. These Mexican natives have become garden staples across the nation, providing large and easy to grow, inexpensive bushes adorned with blooms all summer. Fertilizing dahlias is key to encouraging flower laden stems and big leafy plants. The best fertilizer for dahlia plants should be high in potassium and phosphorus but low in nitrogen to prevent leafy bushes with few blooms. Start planting early for dahlias that will make your neighbors green with envy.

Dahlia Fertilizer Needs

Healthy tubers are the first step to vigorous dahlia bushes. Choose tubers that are free from blemish, chubby, and have plenty of growth eyes or nodes. Proper soil preparation and knowing how to fertilize dahlias will also help you achieve the massive plants with prolific blooms that are the goal of any dahlia gardener. Feeding dahlia plants within 30 days of planting will jump start the tubers production of sprouts and stems, while giving the plant enough of the right fuel to enhance flower production and healthy root development. The "when" and "how" are two great questions regarding feeding dahlia plants, but don't neglect the "what." Dahlias are heavy water users and feeders. It takes a lot of energy to stimulate all that massive growth and flower production. Unlike vegetables and other plants, flowering plants like dahlias need little nitrogen but do need the other two macro-nutrients in higher doses to promote blooms. Choose a formula with the first number in the fertilizer ratio lower than the last two numbers. The first indicates the level of nitrogen, while the second and third numbers indicate the amount of potassium and phosphorus. These crucial nutrients are the energy behind dense upright bushes and branches laden with flowers.

Best Fertilizer for Dahlia

Expert dahlia growers recommend a fertilizer formula with numbers such as 5-10-10, 10-20-20, or even 0-0-10. Note the lower first number, which denotes the amount of nitrogen. Fertilizing dahlias just a couple of times can make a big difference to the flower yield. Just be careful not to overfertilize, which can cause yellowed leaves, drooping, leggy plants, and actually diminish overall plant health. You can balance dahlia fertilizer needs by enriching the soil prior to planting. Till the soil deeply, at least 10 inches (25 cm.), and incorporate a generous amount of finished compost or leaf litter to help with porosity and drainage, as well as increase soil fertility.

How to Fertilize Dahlias

Your plant food will give a recommended amount per square foot for flowering bushes and it is best to follow manufacturer's instructions. Approximately ½ cup (118 ml.) spread around the plant in a 2 foot (61 cm.) ring and lightly worked into the soil should be sufficient. Water in the plant food so it can start to seep to roots for quicker uptake and to avoid burning surface roots. Apply food 30 days after planting the tubers and again in a month. This will get the plants the jump start they need and additional fertilizer should not be necessary. Remember to water frequently, remove any competitive weeds, and watch for pests and disease. Combat issues as they arise for big, bountiful dahlias.

Are dahlia flowers annual or perennial? The flamboyant bloomers are classified as tender perennials, which means they may be annual or perennial, depending on your plant hardiness zone. Can dahlias be grown as perennials? The answer, again, depends on your climate. Read on to find out the real story.

Can Dahlias Be Grown as Perennials?

Perennials are plants that live for at least three years, while tender perennials won’t survive cold winters. Tender dahlia plants are actually tropical plants, and they are perennial only if you live in USDA plant hardiness zone 8 or higher. If your hardiness zone is 7 or below, you have a choice: either grow dahlias as annuals or dig the tubers and store them until spring.

Growing Dahlias Year Round

In order to get the most out of your dahlias, you’ll need to determine your hardiness zone. Once you know which zone you’re in, the following tips will help in growing or keeping these plants healthy and happy each year.

• Zone 10 and above – If you live in zone 10 or above, you can grow dahlia plants as perennials. The plants require no winter protection.
• Zone 8 and 9 – Watch for foliage to die back after the first killing frost in autumn. At this point, you can safely cut the dead foliage to 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) above the ground. Protect the tubers by covering the ground with at least 3 or 4 inches (8-10 cm.) of bark chips, pine needles, straw, or other mulch.
• Zone 7 and below – Trim the dahlia plant to a height of 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) after frost has nipped and darkened the foliage. Dig clumps of tubers carefully with a spade or garden fork, then spread them in a single layer in a shady, frost-free location. Allow the tubers to dry for a few days, then brush off loose soil and trim the stems to about 2 inches (5 cm.). Store the tubers in a basket, paper bag, or cardboard box filled with moist sand, sawdust, peat moss, or vermiculite. (Never store the tubers in plastic, as they will rot.) Place the container in a cool, dry room where temperatures are consistently between 40 and 50 degrees F. (4-10 C.).

Check the tubers occasionally throughout the winter months and mist them lightly if they begin to look shriveled. If any of the tubers develop soft spots or begin to rot, cut off the damaged area to prevent the rot from spreading to other tubers. Note: Zone 7 tends to be a borderline zone when it comes to overwintering dahlias. If you live in zone 7b, dahlias may survive the winter with a very thick layer of mulch.

Dahlias are beautiful, full-blooming natives of Mexico that can be grown virtually anywhere in the summer. Planting dahlias in containers is a great choice for people who have little space for a garden. Even if you have a garden, a container grown dahlia can live on your patio or front porch, bringing those gorgeous blossoms up close and personal. Keep reading to learn how to grow dahlias in containers.

Can Dahlias Be Grown in Containers?

Can dahlias be grown in containers? Yes, but it’s a little bit of a process. If you want a bulb you can plant and forget, you may want to pick a different plant. Choose a container that’s big enough in diameter that the tuber can fit comfortably when laid horizontally in the bottom. Just-planted dahlias tubers are at risk of rotting, so make sure your container has plenty of drainage. If it only has one or two holes, consider drilling a couple more. Moisten a very loose potting mix that contains good draining elements like perlite and bark, and fill the container about a third of the way up. Lay your tuber flat in the container with the eye or sprout, if there is one, facing upwards. Add more potting mix until the tuber is just barely covered and the eye is just sticking out. Care for dahlias in pots includes giving them support as they grow taller. Next to the tuber, sink a strong pole up to 5 feet (1 m.) in length to the bottom of the pot. Drill two holes into the side of the pot opposite the pole, and anchor it in place with a piece of wire or string. Placing the support pole at this stage saves the roots from being damaged in the future. Planting dahlias in containers requires some maintenance at this stage. If you’ve started it inside, which is recommended in areas with short growing seasons, put your container grown dahlia directly under a grow light set to a 12 hour timer. Keep track of the plant as it grows and lightly fill in more potting mix around it as it grows up. Keep doing this until you reach 1 inch (2.5 cm.) below the top of the container.

How to Grow Dahlias in Containers

Care for dahlias in pots, once you’ve filled the container with potting mix, is not too hard. Place them outside when the weather warms in a place that receives full sun and water and fertilize them regularly. As your container grown dahlia gets taller, tie it to the stake and pinch off the top to encourage bushy growth to the sides.

One of the most diverse and spectacular species of flowers is the dahlia. Whether you want tiny, little, brightly colored poms or dinner-plate-sized behemoths, there is a tuber for you. These amazing plants thrive in hot, sunny locations and can survive in many zones as perennials. Like most tubers, dahlias will produce more tuberous roots. So can you divide dahlias? Definitively. Dividing dahlia bulbs is a simple process that will make more plants and encourage the health of the existing plot.

Can You Divide Dahlias?

I love our state fair where there is an entire pavilion filled with every size, color, shape, and style of dahlia you could imagine. This is a magical place overflowing with promise and unique beauty. Dahlias are easy to grow in well-drained soil, full sun, and deeply tilled earth. Dahlias will die if hit by a long frost, so it is wise to dig them up at the end of the summer and overwinter the tubers indoors. This is an ideal time for splitting dahlia tubers. In spring, plant each healthy one for even more of these lovelies. Dahlias can be propagated through seed, cuttings, and root division. Seeds take a long time to make blooming plants and cuttings are a lot of monkey business. The quickest and most direct way to get more plants that will bloom that year is by dividing dahlia bulbs. Separating healthy tubers from diseased or damaged ones will also ensure vital plants for the next season. The tubers you grew this season will become many more plants the following spring and summer.

When to Divide Dahlia Tubers

Dahlia growers know better than to take a chance and leave the tubers in the ground over winter. Excess moisture may rot the roots and a good hard freeze will simply kill them. If you dig them up in spring, you may find a mass of mushy, rotten tubers which will not produce. During spring, before you plant the overwintered root mass, is when to divide dahlia tubers. If you divide when you pull the roots for overwintering, you may find they are not viable in spring, so wait a bit before splitting dahlia tubers. This is because each tuber must have an eye or growth bud that is viable. You really can’t tell until spring which eyes are growing and which are not healthy. There are a few things to note when learning how to divide dahlia clumps.

How to Divide Dahlia Clumps

Lifting the clump of roots carefully will prevent any mechanical injury which will damage the tubers. This is done in fall, but wait to divide the roots. Find the previous year’s mother tuber and get rid of her. Her energy is mostly spent and she will not be a good plant. Use clean shears to prevent passing disease onto the tubers. Take out any tubers with skinny necks, damage, mold, or broken areas. Look for swollen eyes on the tubers. If you can’t tell where the eyes are, put the tubers in a moist, warm area for a week. The eyes will begin to sprout so you can tell which are healthy. Cut these apart carefully. Some gardeners swear by dusting these with sulfur to protect the cut wound from fungal disease. I never do this and have had no problem, but the dust is available at most nurseries and can’t hurt. Plant the tubers immediately and enjoy another bountiful season of beauty.

Dahlias are stunningly beautiful, relatively easy plants that produce clusters of luscious blooms from early summer through late fall, but discovering dahlia insect pests on your prized plants is a frustrating, disheartening experience. Read on to learn about insects that like dahlias, and about treating pests that affect dahlias.

Bugs Eating My Dahlias!

Below are the most common insect pests affecting dahlia plants in the garden:

• Thrips – Slender pests with fringed wings, Thrips damage plants by puncturing the leaves and sucking out the juices. Although thrips rarely kill dahlias, they can affect the appearance by causing stippled leaves, leaf drop and stunted growth. Pesticides aren’t usually helpful because the pests move from plant to plant so quickly.
• Spider mites – About the size of a tiny speck of sand, tiny spider mites are difficult to see with the naked eye. You can locate the pests with a magnifying glass, but a magnifying glass usually isn’t necessary because you will notice telltale strands of thin webbing on the leaves. Spider mites are often more apparent during dry, dusty weather.
• Snails and Slugs – Slugs and snails are capable of doing tremendous damage to dahlias and other plants. However, they are easy to spot; they chew large holes in leaves, and they leave slimy, mucous tracks wherever they go.
• Caterpillars – (the larval stages of moths and butterflies) Caterpillars leave no slime, but like slugs, they chew holes in the leaves. They often roll themselves up in leaves, and rolled, curled foliage is a dead giveaway that caterpillars have been feasting on your dahlias.
• Earwigs – Small, brown bugs with evil-looking pincers, earwigs aren’t as intimidating as they look. These dahlia insect pests are active during the nighttime hours and tend to remain hidden during the day. Keep in mind that pesticides are ill-advised. Although earwigs aren’t pretty, they do a good job at keeping aphids and other more harmful pests under control. Trap them with a rolled up newspaper or a short length of old garden hose.
• Grasshoppers - While not a major pest of dahlia, grasshoppers do occasionally feed on the plant's leaves. Using nosema locustae is a safe way to get rid of these insects.

Treating Pests that Affect Dahlias

Proper plant care is the best line of defense against dahlia insect pests, as healthy dahlia plants are more pest-resistant. Water properly and apply fertilizer carefully according to label directions. Keep dahlia beds clear of leaves and other plant debris, which provide hiding places for slugs, snails, earwigs, and other pests. Similarly, limit mulch depth to no more than 3 inches (8 cm.), especially if you notice silvery slug and snail trails. Keep weeds pulled in the area around your dahlias. Prune any damaged plant parts. Large pests like slugs and caterpillars are easy to remove by hand. Remove the pests and drop them in a bucket of soapy water. Evenings or early mornings are the best times for this task, when slugs and caterpillars are more active. Grab a flashlight and be sure to wear gloves to protect your hands. In some cases, wood ashes and diatomaceous earth create scratchy barriers that keep slugs at bay. If caterpillars remain a major problem, consider using Bacillius thuringenesis (Bt), a natural bacteria. When caterpillars eat the bacteria, the toxins give the pests a deadly tummy ache. (Keep in mind that although caterpillars and slugs have similarities, they are very different pests. Bt won’t help alleviate a slug problem, and wood ashes and diatomaceous earth are unlikely to discourage caterpillars.) Avoid pesticides, which are dangerous for bees and other beneficial insects. Many pests, including spider mites, aphids, and thrips are easily treated with an insecticidal soap spray. Reapply every week to ten days if you continue to notice pests on your dahlias. Seek out safe alternatives, such as chemical-free slug pellets. Consider ways to attract birds, frogs, and toads to your yard. They’ll do a great job at keeping caterpillars, slugs, and other pests in check.

Imagine a huge plant decorated with intensely colored and textured blooms that bear rayed petals in varying styles. The plant might be a dahlia, one of the most diverse species of flowering perennials available. Dahlia blooms may be as small as a quarter or as large as a dinner plate. The heavier-bearing plants need support to ensure that the blooms stay erect and out of the dirt. There are many professional dahlia staking ideas for purchase, but you can inexpensively make your own dahlia support.

Reasons for Staking Dahlia Plants

Dahlia growers are familiar with the signs. Muddy blooms pasted to the earth and bedraggled flowers with bent, broken stems. Dahlias are prolific producers after a few years. These tuberous plants have slender, erect stems which are not always capable of supporting the larger blooms. Staking dahlia plants is important during the season to keep the leafy stems rising to the sun and prevent damage to the flowers. Here are a few great tried and true methods on how to keep dahlias from falling over. Dahlia support is a crucial step in protecting these massive plants and their vigorous flowers. Some of the easiest and most economical dahlia staking ideas come from novice attempts to erect some sort of structure of support.

• One of my dahlias grows through an old wire garden chair that lost its seat. The chair goes in place just as the tubers start to sprout and over time the bush pushes through the wires, effectively holding the stems upright.
• Another common method is to use stout wooden stakes and twine to tie the stems erect. Stakes should be at least 6 feet (2 m.) tall and driven into the ground until firm.

Best Ways to Stake Dahlias

Every gardener has their own ideas of the best ways to stake dahlias. Purchased forms or even pruned sticks in the shape of a “y” remove the need for most tying. These allow the plant to rest its stem naturally in the “y” and support it gently. You may also choose to purchase a wire dahlia support which is laid over stakes and has a grid-like frame that stems grow through. A chicken wire cage or even a tomato cage is also useful to keep the slender stems upright. Over time the foliage of the dahlia will cover up the unsightly cage and gives all-over support.

How to Keep Dahlias from Falling Over

One of the biggest tips from experts is to consider dahlia support at the time you plant the tubers. Have a plan in place before you ever see sprouts. If you are using stakes or rebar, plant the tubers so each eye is right next to previously placed stakes. The eye will create the first sprout, which will be situated next to the stake for easy training. Another option is to plant many tubers within a small space and then stake around the area. As the tubers sprout, you can run a line of twine around the entire patch, essentially corralling all the interior greenery and allowing the mass to self-support in the center. It is important to divide your tubers every three years. This will force larger, sturdier plants and prevent splayed, flopping specimens.

If you have ever been to a state fair, you have probably seen a pavilion filled with exotic and amazing dahlia blossoms. These hugely varietal flowers are a collector's dream, with little starburst blooms to plate-sized flowers in every hue imaginable. Dahlias are relatively sturdy plants if grown in the right lighting, heat, and soil. Care of dahlia flowers may vary dependent upon your zone, but here are a few dahlia growing tips to help you get maximum blooms and healthy, bushy plants.

How to Grow a Dahlia Plant

Dahlias are classified according to flower shape and petal arrangement. The plants are borne from tubers, which require well-drained soil and plenty of sunlight. Caring for dahlia plants starts at installation with the cultivation of the soil and healthy tubers. Learning how to grow a dahlia plant will likely lead to a hobby, as the spectacular blooms are quite addictive and the presence of one or two will lead to plenty more in subsequent seasons. Select healthy tubers of a variety that does well in your zone. The outside of the tuber should be firm with no mold or rotten spots. Prepare the garden bed. These plants prefer well-drained, acidic loam but will grow relatively well in any soil as long as it isn't soggy. Dig down 8 to 12 inches (20.5 to 30.5 cm.) and add compost to increase the porosity and nutrient density since dahlias are big feeders. A good dahlia growing tip is to take this time to incorporate 2 pounds per 100 square feet (1 kg. per 9.5 sq. m.) of a 5-10-15 fertilizer. Small plants can be spaced 12 inches (30.5 cm.) apart, but the big dahlias need to be planted 3 feet (1 m.) apart to accommodate the large bushes. Lay the tuber sprout-side up 3 inches (7.5 cm.) deep in a trench and cover it over with the prepared soil.

Dahlia Care

Dahlias need to be kept weed-free. Use organic mulch around the plants to prevent weeds and conserve moisture. Pinch back the terminal buds when the plant is 15 inches (38 cm.) tall to enforce good branching and structure and increase budding. Provide plenty of water to your plants. Water plants deeply once or twice per week. Big dahlias need a support structure to keep the heavy blooms from bending to the ground. Fertilize monthly with a water-soluble fertilizer or twice during the growing season use ½ cup (120 mL.) 5-10-10 scattered around the root zone of the plants. Good dahlia care also includes pest management.

Caring for Dahlia Plants in Winter

Dahlias are hardy to zone 8 and will survive if cut back and mulched heavily. Pull away the mulch in spring to allow new shoots to come up. In cooler zones, the tubers need to be stored indoors until spring. Dig at least a foot (30.5 cm.) away from the plant and lift the tuberous clump. Brush off excess dirt and lay them in a dry, but shady, location for a few days. Remove the remainder of the dirt and check the tubers for damage or disease. Pack healthy tubers upside down in a basket nestled in damp peat moss, vermiculite, or perlite. Check tubers every month, and if they begin to shrivel, mist them with water. Remove any that get diseased. You can also dust the tubers with antifungal powder before storing them. In the spring, replant the tubers and follow the above program for good care of dahlia flowers.

Few species of flower offer the sheer variety and diversity of form and color as the dahlia. These magnificent plants are such showstoppers that there are entire conventions and contests devoted to their beauty and breathtaking shape. That being said, yellowing dahlia plants are common, and the condition may be caused by disease, insect infestation, improper or poor soil, or general site conditions. Find out what causes dahlia leaves to turn yellow and save your plant from foliar distress.

What Causes Dahlia Leaves to Turn Yellow

Plants can become ill for a host of reasons. The actual cause may take some sleuthing to discover. Keep in mind that if this occurs towards the end of the growing season, it is likely due to the plant getting ready for its normal dormancy period.

Cultural Reasons for Dahlia Leaves Yellowing

If you notice your dahlias turning yellow early in their growth cycle, it could be the soil or cultural problems. They love full sun locations in soil which is slightly acidic. They thrive in hot conditions and prefer a deep watering once per week.

• If the soil is heavy clay, it will not dry out and percolate properly. This waterlogs the roots and tubers.
• Improper soil pH and condition are a major cause of yellow leaves.
• Lack of magnesium or iron will also cause yellowing dahlia plants.

Dahlia Leaves Yellowing and Disease

Probably the most common cause of yellow dahlia foliage is rot and fungal diseases.

• Rotten tubers cannot support the growth of healthy foliage and blooms. Leaves fade and before long you see your dahlias turning yellow.
• Smut is a fungal disease that causes yellow mottling in leaves.
• Chlorosis occurs when the plant cannot produce enough chlorophyll and gradually the leaves will fade to a pale yellow.
• Verticular wilt is a vascular disease which causes leaves to wilt and fade.
• Mosaic diseases cause irregular yellow patches and spots on leaves.

There is no shortage of disease pathogens ready to attack a dahlia. Fortunately, good care can usually keep the plant alive until it goes dormant.

Yellow Dahlia Foliage from Pests

Many insect pests can also affect dahlia plants, resulting in yellowing of the leaves.

• Leafhoppers will be the most prevalent pests of dahlia plants. Their feeding can transmit a disease known as the “yellows.”
• Armored scale is also responsible for yellow dahlia foliage.
• Aphid damage may be yellow or white but is also accompanied by twisted and distorted leaves.
• Mites are another sucking insect that will cause leaf damage. They prefer lower leaves and those on the shady side.

Sucking insects do the worst damage but rarely kill a plant. They can cause distress due to foliage loss and reduction of plant sugars. You can control the majority of the damage by simply blasting the dahlia leaves with water and rinsing them off. Horticultural oils and soaps or neem oil are also effective at keeping their sucking activities away from your prized dahlia plants. A little extra care and you can prevent yellow dahlia foliage and have superior blooms and leaves all summer long.

It’s easy to understand how many of us become enamored with the beauty of dahlias, and storing dahlia tubers is an integral part of their care in winter. A striking addition to any home landscape or garden, avid flower growers frequently find themselves drawn to rare and highly sought-after dahlia varieties.

Most dahlia fans are eager to grow, multiply, and preserve their favorite types. Diligent overwintering of dahlias enables these cherished perennials to thrive for many seasons to come. In this article, we will explore the process of properly storing dahlia tubers in greater depth.

Can You Leave Dahlias in the Ground Over Winter?

While many dahlia growers prefer to dig and store their dahlia tubers each season, it is not always necessary. Most dahlias are considered hardy in USDA growing zones 8-10. In these regions we usually see consistent return of the plants from one season to the next without digging.

Several conditions can impact a tuber’s ability to survive the winter. Most notable among these is tolerance to cold and soil moisture. Rot, fungal disease, and other damage caused by poor drainage are among the most common causes of loss of tubers.

In frost-free climates there’s no need not worry about issues related to the cold, but the tubers may benefit from routine division and brief periods of rest between growing seasons.

How to Overwinter Dahlias

Digging and storing dahlias for winter is a simple process, once you know what to do. Here's how to take your tubers out of the garden and get them ready for storage:

1. Dig

The process of storing dahlias begins when the plant is ready to dig. Ideally, plants should be allowed to die back naturally, with the arrival of the first frost. At this time, the foliage will wilt and turn black. Each stem can then be cut back to the ground, leaving only a few inches to mark the plant’s location.

Tubers should be left in the garden, undisturbed, for approximately two weeks. This period of time will help to prepare the tubers for storage, and ultimately, reduce losses during winter.

When digging, experienced growers suggest working in a circular perimeter around the plant to avoid slicing through or damaging the underground tubers.

2. Wash

After each clump has been lifted from the soil, it need to be washed. This can be done using soak tubs, or a gentle blast from the garden hose. Removing excess dirt from the plant aids in the prevention of rot during storage, as well as in the division process.

3. Divide

Though tubers can be divided in the spring, many gardeners prefer to do this after the plants have been lifted in autumn. Each viable tuber will consist of three parts: the eye, the neck, and the body. Use a sharp horticultural knife to carefully cut away each of the tubers from the main clump, or simply divide the clump into smaller pieces.

4. Dry

After processing, dahlia tubers should be allowed to dry completely before storage. In most instances 1-2 days is more than sufficient. Though dahlias are susceptible to rot, excessively dry conditions may also cause problems in storage. Over-dried tubers generally have a wrinkled or shrunken appearance.

5. Add Fungicide (Optional)

When dahlia tubers are properly processed and prepared for storage, rotting is seldom an issue. Still, the loss of tubers can occur, seemingly without explanation.

To further safeguard against rot, some experts advocate using a fungicidal treatment before storage. When using a fungicide, make certain to read and follow each specific manufacturer's labeled instructions for safe use.

How to Store Dahlia Tubers

Proper storage can mean the difference between beautiful blooms and rotten tubers. Here's how to store dahlias so they provide a summer full of flowers again next year:

1. Wrap

Techniques for storing dahlia tubers vary. Commonly, gardeners choose paper or plastic bags to keep the tubers fresh. Individual tubers may also be stored in plastic wrap, which will help to preserve moisture throughout winter. Use caution when storing tubers in plastic, as it can impede airflow if it’s not properly ventilated.

2. Bury

Cardboard boxes and plastic containers to store dahlia tubers are another popular option. Large numbers of tubers can be arranged in layers and then buried beneath a medium. The best storage mediums include mixtures of peat moss, vermiculite, or even wood shavings.

Throughout the winter, the containers should be checked routinely. Those that have dried completely may require additional misting to prevent dehydration and ensure that tubers do not begin to shrivel.

3. Store Somewhere Cool

Place your dahlia tubers in a cool, dark location for the winter. Basements, unheated garages, and closets are ideal for dahlia storage provided that the space remains frost-free. Ideal storage temperatures should range between 40-50 F (4-10 C) with approximately 90% humidity. Tubers that show signs of rot are most often the result of conditions that are either too cold or dehydration from storage that is much too warm.

How to Revive Dahlia Tubers in Spring

Dahlia tubers that are overwintering can be difficult to wake. Most gardeners begin this process in late winter by bringing storage containers to room temperature. Exposure to light will also help to initiate tuber growth.

To get an early start on the growing season you can arrange them into trays or pots in preparation for spring transplant. If conditions are warm and without risk of frost, dahlia tubers can also be moved outdoors to stimulate new growth.

Dahlias are such a beautiful feature in the garden, eliciting excitement and pleasure with their varied colors, sizes, and characteristics, they are worth the little extra time it takes to nurture them through the cold months.

Planting dahlias in your garden or container promises a unique sort of colorful drama that only dahlias can bring. Most dahlia fans prefer to grow them from tubers. If you’re wondering how to plant dahlias or if you’re already planting dahlias, read on for some tips on dahlia plant care.

How to Plant Dahlia Tubers

If you’re sure there will be no more frosty nights in early spring, it’s safe to get your dahlia tubers into the ground. If you’re wrong about the frost, you could lose or damage them.

Plan to grow your dahlias in a spot where they’ll receive full sun and be sure the soil is very well draining. Tubers that sit in wet soil tend to become mushy and will rot, and dahlias are no exception.

Each healthy tuber should have at least one eye. You will want to sink some sturdy support stakes into the ground before planting your tubers. 6-foot (2 m.) stakes sunken a foot (30.5 cm.) into the ground is recommended. Putting in stakes first will keep you from accidentally damaging the tubers later when your growing plants need to be supported, and they will definitely need support. Next to the stakes, dig your planting holes 6 to 8 inches (15-20.5 cm.) deep for tall varieties and 2 to 3 inches (5-7.5 cm.) deep for shorter varieties.

Make sure your tubers are spaced 18 to 24 inches (45.5-61 cm.) apart. Another method of planting dahlias is to dig a 6- to 8-inch (15-20.5 cm.) deep trench, spacing the tubers again, 18 to 24 inches (45.5-61 cm.) apart. Cover the trench with soil and a layer of mulch.

When your planting holes or trenches are ready, place the dahlia tubers flat on their sides and cover them with soil. Mulching over the top helps keep the weeds down, which your dahlias will appreciate. Keep in mind when growing dahlia flowers that they can reach heights from 1 to 5 feet (30.5 cm. to 1.5 m.) tall, so allowing plenty of space in between the tubers is important.

Dahlia Plant Care

Depending on how warm the soil is, your dahlias will take somewhere around six to eight weeks to sprout. They do better when the soil is 60 degrees F. (16 C.). When they get to be around a foot (30.5 cm.) high, there’s work to be done. It’s time to give your dahlias some special attention.

My local dahlia experts advise that only the strongest shoot should be allowed to develop from each tuber. When the plant is 10 to 12 inches (25.5-30.5 cm.) high, gently pull the soil away from the tuber and remove the extra shoots, snipping them off right at the tuber. Cover the tuber again with soil.

These extra shoots can be easily rooted for new plants. If you don’t take them off, your dahlias will not be as large and prolific. In addition, when your plants are at this height, carefully tie them loosely to the support stake with soft yarn, nylon stockings, or soft twine.

At this stage, your plants will need an inch (2.5 cm.) of water every week throughout the growing season and double that if the weather is dry. Keep your dahlia bed weed-free.

Planting Dahlias in Containers

The rules are the same. Make sure there is 6 to 8 inches (15-20.5 cm.) of well-draining soil and use strong stakes. Mulch them. Trim them when they are a foot (30.5 cm.) high and water them. When choosing a container for your dahlia, keep in mind how large these plants can grow, and be sure you have a very large pot to support them.

Additional Dahlia Maintenance

After planting your dahlia tubers, encourage their roots by feeding them with a 10-10-10 fertilizer every few weeks. By the time they get to be around 15 inches (38 cm.) tall, pinch off their suckers to strengthen the plant.

Keep the area around the dahlias free of weeds and prune away any broken stems. Healthy dahlias usually aren’t plagued by pests, but there are some that could show up. Thrips, snails, spider mites, earwigs, or grasshoppers may pay a visit, but be sure to treat them with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or a chemical-free slug repellent. Natural predators like birds, frogs, and toads will help you control pests.

Dahlias take a bit of attention and nurturing but they’re so stunning that they’re totally worth the effort.