• TIME: 10 minutes
• RATING: Easy
• REWARD: Helps lavender survive winter

There’s an old gardening memory trick that says you should prune 8 inches from lavender plants on the eighth day of the eighth month. While there’s no need to stick exactly to this rule, there’s an awful lot of growing sense stored in those three digits. By August 8th, the flowers of most lavender varieties have faded, but the soil is still plenty warm enough to encourage new growth. And by trimming those old flower spikes, along with an inch or so of the foliage below, you’ll trigger the plant to grow a dense covering of new leaves. So if you're growing lavender in your garden, this is a quick and easy weekend win.

By following the 8-8-8 rule, there’s enough time for the fresh growth to harden before temperatures plummet, and this cloak of close-knit evergreen leaves will effectively insulate the plant through winter. And that means it’ll be in better shape next year, ready for another summer of abundant blooms..

The other benefit to trimming lavender in early August is keeping the plant compact and bushy, for a denser display of flowers next year. Pruning lavender plants now means you can shape them into a neat silver-leaved dome that will look good all through fall, winter and spring. A late summer trim makes it super-simple to avoid the biggest lavender pruning mistake of all, too: cutting into old wood, from which new stems probably won’t grow back.

Oh yes, and there’s an additional treat for you as well – but we’ll get to that!

How to Prune Lavender in August

1. Pick the Perfect Time

There's no need be exact about dates or measurements when you're deciding when to prune lavender. While the 888 lavender rule is a handy reminder, lavender should be trimmed once its flower spikes have faded and started to dry out, and the exact timing will differ between varieties and growing zones. But it's very likely to be right now.

2. Find Fresh Growth

Don’t stick to trimming off exactly 8 inches either. While that’s generally the right ballpark for most lavender types, you should aim to prune the faded flower stalk with around an inch of foliage. This is going to differ between a young and a mature plant, too, so use your judgement: you want to remove some of this year’s foliage but you don’t want to cut into the older, woodier stems below, which may not resprout.

Take a closer look at your plant and you'll probably spot a layer of fresh new silvery leaves against the greener foliage, above the brown woody stems. This is the perfect place to make your cuts as the stems here are lush, healthy, and ready to regrow.

3. Cut off Faded Flower Stalks

Use a sharp pair of bypass pruning shears, such as these Fiskars Bypass Pruners from Walmart, and if you haven’t sharpened your pruners in a while, do take a moment to before you begin. Clean cuts made with sharp blades heal much faster, so your plant can get on with the important business of growing fresh foliage, and it’s a two-minute task with a sharpening tool such as this $10 blade sharpener from Amazon.

Hold a bunch of stems in one hand and cut through the centre of this layer of fresh foliage with your pruners.

4. Shape the Plant

Once you’ve removed all the flower stalks, take a moment to consider the shape of your plant. If it’s a border plant, you may want to encourage it into a dome shape; if you’re growing a low lavender hedge, then you might want the sides to be straighter. I’m shaping this lavender plant to drape over the side of this raised bed so soften this patio corner, so I'm leaving the stems on one side slightly longer than those on the top.

Just be aware that if you cut into the woody part of the stems, they may not reshoot – but you can use that to your advantage, if you want the plant to ‘travel’ in a particular direction. The color difference between the older, brown woody stems at the plant base and the newer, green soft stems higher up is very clear at this time of the year, so it’s easy to tell.

5. Water to Aid Recovery

Pruning is a stressful event for any plant, so give your lavender a good water once you’re finished to help it recover quickly, and get growing again.

And that’s it, your weekend win is done! Thanks to its quick trim, your plant will now grow a snug coat of evergreen foliage that'll keep it cosy all through winter. And there’s a quick trick that will keep you happy in the cold season, too.

Before you make your pruning cuts, tie a ribbon tightly around a handful of stems, then trim as before.

You'll be left with a bunch of dried lavender to hang up indoors and scent your home. Deciding whether or not to strip the foliage from the stems will change the lavender's scent. The leaves typically have a slightly sharper, more resinous scent, adding depth and strength to the fragrance, which would be beneficial if you wanted to hang your posy in a bathroom, perhaps. In a bedroom, however, stripping the foliage so you enjoy just the sweeter fragrance of the flowers would give a softer, more calming aroma.

Either way, the scent will remind you of the plethora of fragranced flowers you can look forward to next summer – and boy will you get plenty, thanks to your timely August weekend win. If you want to give your plant some more TLC, then treating lavender to a gravel mulch is next on my to-do list.

Before and After

I always find it really useful to see a before and after of gardening jobs, so I know exactly what I'm aiming to achieve. Here's what my lavender plant looked like before its August prune:

Here's what my lavender plant looked like after its August prune.

New Lavender Varieties That Are Better Than Ever

Now I'm using old cardboard boxes to mulch my vegetable patch this summer, my plants are flourishing despite the heat, I spend far less time watering and weeding, and I don’t have to deal with cat poop. It took an hour to do, and didn’t cost me a penny. And even though I only mulched this raised bed a week ago, I've already saved more time than it took to lay the cardboard. So from now on, I’ll be making cardboarding an essential part of growing vegetables in my garden – and yes, I do think this brilliant DIY gardening trick deserves a new word.

As a gardening editor, I get to read piles of garden articles and my feeds spill with greenery and gardening hacks. I read an article about using cardboard boxes to smother weeds and start new beds; then I read another about using cardboard as a mulch to lock moisture in the soil, and I was intrigued.

You see, my veggie bed was in dire need of help this El Niño summer. Exposed and south-facing, my garden had withstood 8 weeks with zero rainfall and was reliant on my irrigation which, 2 weeks into a hosepipe ban, had become more erratic than ever. I'd been so busy that, in my vegetable patch, weeds had grown so tall they were flowering and seeding. And the one area of bare earth? My cats had adopted it as their favorite poop spot.

I had a bunch of cardboard boxes waiting to be recycled, so I decided to give this eco-friendly, biodegradable mulching idea a go. And honestly, laying a cardboard mulch is the best thing I’ve done all summer. As well as the expected benefits, the cardboard layer means I can (literally) throw buckets of water onto the veggie bed without worrying about washing soil away, so it (literally) takes me a minute to irrigate the entire patch. Earth has already accumulated around the necks of holes cut to accommodate plants, creating pools that hold water so more gets to the roots where it's needed. My free mulch looks pretty good, too.

I'm sharing exactly how I did it, because I reckon you should, too – honestly, it's been a game-changer for growing vegetables in a hot summer.

1. Pull Out the Worst Weeds

While the cardboard will quickly smother seedling weeds, I pulled all the perennial weeds such as thistles and nettles, as well as annual weeds that had grown big. Because my garden is next to a hay field, all sorts of seeds blow in, and my bucket was soon filled with an A–Z of weeds. I even discovered a self-seeded poppy.

2. Flatten and Prep Boxes

I flattened the boxes and removed all the packaging tape and address labels from the cardboard. I didn't want chemicals from these leaching into the soil, or plastic that wouldn't break down, and removing them also made the cardboard more porous.

3. Lay the Cardboard on the Soil

I laid sections of cardboard on the soil surface, cutting holes to fit around the plants and doing my best to overlap the edges by a couple of inches. Because this is a raised bed, the cardboard didn't need weighing down to keep it in place; if my veg patch was a bed in the ground, I'd put a few stones along the edges of the cardboard stop the wind getting beneath it.

4. Water Thoroughly

I threw a fair few gallons of water onto the cardboard, both to hydrate the bed but also to wet the cardboard so it softened, molded itself closer to the soil surface and all the sections stuck together where they overlapped.

Before and After

Here’s a photo I took before I started, with the weeds out-competing my poor veggies for moisture (the shame!):

Here’s a photo I took an hour later, once I’d finished.

Is the Cardboard Mulch Working?

Definitely. The good news is that since I mulched my vegetable patch with cardboard, the plants are doing better than ever, though I'm spending far less time watering. I haven’t seen a single cat poop, either, and I can't tell you how happy I am about that.

In the week since I laid the cardboard, the corn has started fruiting.

The cucumber has thrown out several new stems.

Even the artichokes – which I thought the heat had killed off – have started shooting from their bases.

I’d really recommend using cardboard to mulch vegetable beds. In my garden, the cardboard mulch is doing a great job of suppressing weeds and it’s saving me so much time watering in this heatwave weather. Even when the top surface of the cardboard looks totally dry, when I lift a corner the soil below is still nice and moist. All the worms seem super-happy, too. The cardboard will slowly break down to improve the soil structure and next year, I won’t have to bother cutting around the plants either, as I’ll be cardboarding before I sow, leaving a criss-cross of gaps.

I already add shredded cardboard to my compost heap but using it as a mulch, too, works wonders. As I practise no-dig gardening in this bed, the cardboard doesn't cause me any issues and, in spring, I'll simply lay my usual layer of compost mulch over the top. I'll be trying this mulching method on my shrub border, too, laying cardboard before I tip over a layer of compost, to beef up its weed suppressing and water conserving abilities. As gardening tips go, laying a cardboard mulch has been a real game-changer for me.

More Biodegradable Mulches

Just in case you’re wondering, the self-seeded poppy survived the cardboarding process!

The soil is still warm. August feels like the tail end of the growing season, which is exactly why the beds get abandoned early. Six vegetables sown now mature fast enough to fill a harvest basket before frost arrives.

Midsummer gardens start looking tired around now, and it's tempting to let the beds coast into fall. Warm soil speeds up germination, though. Shortening days work in favor of anything grown for leaves or roots. Plenty of crops planted in August will still hit maturity while the weather holds.

Match days to maturity against the average first frost date, then pad that number a little. Cold weather crops handle a light freeze without complaint. Several of them taste better after one. Anything tender has to finish before cold sets in for good, so the fast growers go in first.

Fast Crops Worth Sowing Now

Seed packet advice assume decent conditions. Fall hands out shorter days plus a cooling seedbed, so adding a week or two to that number keeps expectations reasonable.

Soil that is above 85F (29C) will stall germination on a few of these. A soil thermometer from Walmart settles that question in about half a minute.

1. Bush Beans

Most gardeners file beans under summer and leave it there. Bush beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) go from seed to picking in roughly 50 days, though, so an August sowing lands comfortably ahead of frost across a lot of the country. Germination in warm ground can happen inside of three days. Beans will not tolerate freezing, at all. The countdown matters here more than it does for the hardier crops. Pick young and pick often.

2. Radishes

Three or four weeks is the whole run from sowing to pulling, which barely counts as a commitment. Radishes (Raphanus sativus) slot into gaps between slower crops. Fall roots come out milder than spring ones — the heat that turns them sharp and woody is on its way out by then. Sow a short row every couple weeks instead of the whole packet at once, or everything sizes up together and half of it splits before anyone gets around to pulling it.

3. Carrots

Timing gets tighter here, since even the quicker carrots (Daucus carota subsp. sativus) want 60 to 70 days. Southern gardens have room for that. Northern ones are cutting it close unless the bed gets covered later on. Germination is the fussy part — seed sits shallow and dries out fast under an August sun, so the top inch (2.5cm) has to stay damp for a good stretch. A length of shade cloth from Amazon over the row takes some pressure off the daily watering. The cover comes off once the seedlings are through.

4. Beets

Two harvests come off one planting, since the greens are worth eating long before the roots size up. Thinning plants go straight into a pan. Beets (Beta vulgaris) want 50 to 60 days for a decent root. After that they hold in the ground through several frosts, sweetening while they sit. Crowding happens no matter how carefully the sowing goes — what looks like a single seed is really a cluster. Thin to about 3 inches (8cm) once the seedlings are up.

5. Broccoli

Seed started this late will not head up in time anywhere north of the Gulf. Transplants are the practical route for broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica). Nurseries stock them for exactly that reason. Heat stress on a young plant causes buttoning — a tiny useless head, then nothing. Shade during the first week after setting out is closer to mandatory than optional. Cabbage loopers (Trichoplusia ni) are still working in late summer and can strip a young plant fast, so netting goes on early rather than after the damage shows. Side shoots keep coming after the main head is cut.

6. Kale

Frost improves kale (Brassica oleracea var. sabellica). Not much else in the garden can claim that. The flavor shifts from harsh to mild over a single cold snap — cold triggers sugar production in the leaves, a rough antifreeze. Plants set out now have time to bulk up first. Harvest from the bottom leaves upward and the same plant keeps producing into winter in milder zones. That last part is reason enough on its own.

Getting the Timing Right

Counting backward from the average first frost date is the whole method. Take the maturity number and add ten to fourteen days for the fall slowdown. Count back from there. Anything landing past the date needs either a shorter crop or some help.

Help is cheap. A floating row cover from The Home Depot thrown over the bed on a cold night holds a few degrees. A few degrees is often the difference between losing a bean planting and getting another two weeks out of it. It's a hedge against a bad week, not a season extension in itself.

Frost dates are averages anyway — the first hard freeze can turn up well ahead of schedule, so watching the forecast through October pays off. Plant a little more than seems reasonable, and the fall table tends to take care of itself.

The search for the garden's next ‘it’ plant usually leads us to something rare and unusual – but what if the answer has been hiding in plain sight all along?

Once upon a decade ago, I probably would've filled every spare corner of my borders with thirsty cottage garden favorites, never giving much thought to whether they could cope with another long summer. These days, though, I'm paying far more attention to the drought-tolerant plants that still look fresh when everything else is pleading for another drink.

Yes, I think we can all admit that our gardens are changing; summers are becoming hotter, dry spells are lasting longer, and our lives are getting busier. No wonder, then, that the flowering plants that survive hot weather are stepping into the spotlight (along with slow-watering tools like the genius Back to the Roots Self-Watering Terracotta Olla Pot, no less!).

This Fragrant Favorite Is The Next 'It' Plant

I found myself doing a double take while walking the dog recently as, house after house, I spotted the same unexpected plant taking pride of place in front gardens and designer-style borders; not a dramatic ornamental grass or the latest must-have perennial, oh no. In fact, it was (drum roll, please!) none other than rosemary.

Yes, everywhere I looked, it seemed as if I could see this fragrant favorite clipped into elegant topiary, woven through gravel gardens, spilling over retaining walls and softening the edges of contemporary planting schemes. And the more I noticed it, the more I wondered if I'd done my own rosemary a disservice by tucking it away beside the kitchen door ready for roasted potatoes.

In a bid to find out, I reached out to award-winning garden designer Zoe Claymore, who just so happens to be an RHS Chelsea medallist, an NAS Ambassador, and a member of the editorial board of The Garden Design Journal. If anyone had the answers, I reasoned to myself, it was her.

"Rosemary is a future-proof plant," Zoe tells me. "It's incredibly drought tolerant, thrives in sandy soils, copes brilliantly with high temperatures and needs very little care once established."

That's a pretty compelling list before you even get to the fact it's evergreen, wonderfully fragrant and completely at home in both traditional and contemporary gardens.

Unlike many ornamental plants that struggle through prolonged dry weather, rosemary seems to relish the conditions. Native to the Mediterranean, it's naturally adapted to bright sunshine, lean soils and periods without much rainfall – all qualities that are becoming increasingly valuable as gardeners look for resilient planting choices.

Shop Rosemary Plants:

I'll happily admit that I'd underestimated rosemary; to me, it was always something to snip for cooking, growing quietly in a terracotta pot near the back door. With Zoe's words ringing through my head, though, I can't stop noticing just how ornamental it really is; the fine evergreen foliage provides structure throughout the year, while its delicate blue flowers arrive surprisingly early in the season, offering an important source of nectar for bees and other emerging pollinators.

"It's fantastic for supporting wildlife," Zoe says. "Those early flowers provide valuable interest in the garden, both visually and for pollinators."

Then there's the scent! Brush past a rosemary plant and you're instantly greeted by that unmistakable aromatic fragrance. Zoe describes it as creating an "embodied experience" in the garden – one that engages far more than just your sense of sight – and I love that idea. Some gardens are beautiful to look at. The very best gardens invite you to touch, smell and properly experience them.

If you're after structure, upright varieties make brilliant informal hedges and respond beautifully to clipping. Zoe has even trained rosemary into topiary in her own compact garden, proving you don't need acres of space to make a statement. For something softer, prostrate rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis 'Prostratus') has an entirely different personality. Rather than growing upwards, it gently cascades over the edges of containers, raised beds and retaining walls, creating a relaxed Mediterranean look while still delivering those fragrant leaves and pollinator-friendly flowers.

"I use it regularly as a spiller in container displays for sunny spots," Zoe says. "It softens the planting while coping brilliantly with heat."

I guess when it comes to the next 'it' plant, all we really want are flowers that support pollinators, foliage that looks good year-round, and plants that can handle drought without demanding endless watering. Is that too much to ask? Not if you direct your request at rosemary, it seems! So you'd best believe that the next rosemary I buy won't be hidden away among my herbs; it's getting the best seat in the garden.

The right plant care in August has a huge impact on the flavor and appearance of tomatoes, as well as how long your harvest lasts for. We’re approaching peak tomato harvesting period this month, so how you look after your plants directly affects the quality as well as quantity of fruit. Start redirecting the plant’s energy on fruit formation and ripening, rather than needlessly growing more foliage, and you will be rewarded with tons more tastier tomatoes.

Without appropriate, targeted care in August, your tomatoes may split, develop unsightly black spots on their bases, and plants might fall prey to fungal disease and red spider mites that put an abrupt end to your harvest. With the right care, however, plants will stay happy, healthy and continue to produce plump, flavorful tomatoes for many weeks to come.

None of these 5 steps are a difficult part of growing tomatoes so get this essential August tomato care right and you can look forward to your best harvest yet. Understanding why you’re doing each task is a key part of keeping tomato plants producing all summer. Why? Because then you’ll be able to tweak each care task to perfectly suit your growing conditions and tomato varieties, whether you’re raising cherry toms or beefsteak tomatoes, outdoors or in a greenhouse, in any zone. Here’s everything you need to know for tip-top August tomato plant care so you can enjoy your best crop yet.

1. Strip Off Lower Leaves to Reduce Disease

First on the list of what to do with tomato plants in August is to strip off some of the lower leaves of indeterminate tomatoes. These plants will be dense with foliage by now, and removing some at stem bases allows better airflow, which in turn reduces the risk of disease. It also allows sunlight in to ripen fruit, and allows you to spot any developing issues faster.

This seems like a fairly drastic task but, as long as you don’t strip off leaves any higher than the halfway point of the plant, you’re doing more good than harm. I start by stripping lower leaves at soil height at the start of August, then take off another layer every week, gradually raising the leafless height to halfway as peak harvesting time is reached. This gradual strip doesn’t shock the plant, and reveals tomatoes just as they need the ripening sun.

Why bother? Well, late tomato blight, when fungus-like organism Phytophthora infestans infects plants and causes both leaves and fruit to rot, is a big risk at this time of year, particularly for outdoor toms. Indoors, leaf mold – which brings similar symptoms to the leaves, often with a grey-brown mold on the undersides – is the harvest slayer to avoid. For both, good airflow around the plants is the very best prevention, and stripping off lower leaves is the number one way to achieve it.

If you want to add another layer of protection, then make a simple, effective anti-fungal spray with baking soda for your tomato plants. Removing lower leaves from the plants also makes it much easier to irrigate without wetting the leaves, further reducing the risk of disease.

There’s no need to strip leaves from determinate tomatoes, though do remove any leaves touching the soil to reduce disease risk.

2. Prune for a Full, Flavorful Harvest

Channelling plants’ energy into growing fruit rather than foliage now is the difference between a basic crop and a bumper harvest so, if you're wondering how to get a good tomato harvest, get your hand pruners at the ready! Remember, indeterminate tomatoes are vines, and they’ll keep growing – and growing – until the frost kills them, so if you want lots of fruit you need to curtail that growth, and redirect that energy into fruit production.

Keep cutting or pinching off any shoots that grow in the junctions between the main stem and leaf stalks. This stops plants wasting energy on growing fresh stems and foliage.

In mid-August, or when a plant has around four or five trusses of tomatoes, pinch out the main growing tip of indeterminate tomatoes. All you have to do is use hand pruners to snip off the uppermost few inches of the main stem, or simply snap it off with your hands. This halts the vine’s upward growth, redirecting its energy into ensuring existing tomatoes grow.

Depending on your zone, the variety you’re growing, and whether or not you can be bothered to ripen green tomatoes off the plant, you can also snip off newly-formed flower trusses at the end of August as there’s unlikely to be enough time for them to develop fully before the season ends.

Cherry tomatoes typically take around 45-60 days to grow from flower to full-sized ripe fruit; beefsteak toms can take up to 90 days. As well as cold weather slowing growth, temperatures above 86°F can slow development, too. So, keep your eye on the thermometer and gauge whether or not it's worth remove any new flower trusses to concentrate the plant's energy into existing fruit.

3. Water Consistently for High-Quality Fruit

How consistently you water your plants now will directly impact the quality of your crop. Erratic watering can cause tomato skins to split, and lead to dark, flat patches at the base of fruit, called blossom end rot. While blossom end rot is caused by a lack of calcium, it’s very rare that soil or compost lacks this element – the problem almost always lies in a lack of consistent water which the plant needs to transport calcium to where it’s needed.

Aim for consistent, steady watering to keep a fairly even level of moisture in the soil. Shading your tomato plants from the harsh midday sun will dramatically reduce evaporation, so this is another way you can help even out soil moisture levels. If it’s easier to rig up more general shade, then using a shade cloth that blocks 30-40% of rays will still allow enough sunlight through to ripen fruit.

Once most fruits have set and are ripening, if the weather isn't too hot, slightly reducing watering will concentrate sugars and flavor. Never reduce irrigation so much that leaves wilt, and it's also important to lessen the volume of water given rather than reduce frequency, so moisture levels remain consistent.

4. Feed Weekly, But Know When to Stop

If you're wondering when you should stop feeding tomato plants, you're not alone as this is a common query. And knowing when to stop fertilizing plants is just as important as knowing when to start, and one of the most critical pro growing tips for a long-lasting tomato harvest.

Until the uppermost clusters of fruit are full-sized, you should continue feeding your tomato plants once a week with a high-potassium tomato fertilizer such as Espoma Organic Tomato! Food, available from Amazon. However, as soon as you start redirecting the plants’ energy to ripening fruit that’s already set, especially if you halt the upwards growth of indeterminate plants by pinching out the tip of the main stem, it's vital not to over-fuel. Too much food can cause fertilizer burn, excess foliage and actually slow fruit production

So, from mid-August, gradually reduce the strength of the feed, tapering off so you don’t abruptly stop this supply of nutrients.

5. Watch Out For Spider Mites

All the hot, dry air of this El Niño summer has created ideal conditions for red spider mites. These sap-sucking critters can ruin a harvest, but are easily controlled if you spot them in time and act quickly.

Don’t rely on being able to see the mites themselves as they're tiny. Instead look out for:

• Moving dots. While the mites are minute, you may spot what looks like moving specks of dust. And don't expect them to be red! At this time of year red spider mites are often a yellowish green, only turning red – and becoming more visible on leaves – in fall.
• Damaged leaves. If there’s an infestation, leaves will first become stippled, where individual cells have been sucked dry, then turn mottled, pale and eventually die and drop.
• Fine silky webs around stems or leaves.
• A build-up of white cast skins and egg shells on the undersides of leaves.

The quicker you act, the better, as high summer heat speeds egg hatching from around 55 days to 7, and a female spider mite can lay 10-20 eggs a day. Remove infected leaves and wash the plant with a jet of water. Coat all surfaces, but particularly the undersides of leaves with a neem oil spray.

Do double-check if the neem oil is already diluted: if you have raw neem oil, mix 1-2 teaspoons into a quart of warm water, before using. To help the oil and water combine, add half a teaspoon of mild liquid dish soap to the water first.

Spray plants once a week for three weeks to catch any newly-hatching mites and break the lifecycle. Sprayed leaves are more easily scorched by the sun, so consider shading if necessary.

Tomato plant care in August is all about directing energy towards producing a plentiful harvest, and keeping plants disease-free so that process can continue for as long as possible into fall. Stripping lower leaves, tactical pruning, consistent irrigation, well-timed feeding and controlling pests will all help your plants happy and healthy, so they can keep providing you with a flavorful harvest week after week. And that's more than enough reward for the time it takes to complete these simple late-summer tomato care tasks.

One indeterminate cherry tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) in decent soil can hand over a couple of pounds (1kg) a week once it hits full stride, and two plants will bury a small family. The crop sets its own deadline, too. A cherry tomato goes from perfect to split overnight when a storm follows a run of hot, rainless days.

Most advice about growing cherry tomatoes ends at the harvest. The real work starts there. The plant has no interest in whether the kitchen has caught up, so the response has to move in two directions at once – what is already picked, and what the vine does from here.

Eight Moves for a Runaway Harvest

A few of the moves take an afternoon, and others take five minutes with a pair of snips like these from Amazon. Start with whichever side is more important that week.

1. Pick at the First Blush of Color

Tomato cracking is a plumbing problem, not a disease. The fruit pulls water in faster than its skin can stretch, so one heavy rain on the back of a dry spell splits half a crop overnight. Picking earlier sidesteps that. It works because a cherry tomato seals itself off from the vine the moment real color appears, and what happens after that happens without the plant. Then you can turn green tomatoes red by just leaving them out on the counter. If your cherry tomatoes are producing heavily, walk the rows every other morning rather than holding out for full color. If any slip past you, cracked tomatoes are perfectly fine to eat.

2. Keep Them Out of the Fridge

Refrigeration costs more than it saves. Somewhere below 55F (13C) the aroma compounds start breaking down and the texture goes mealy, which accounts for most of what is wrong with a supermarket tomato. A counter does better. Ripe ones keep several days in a single layer, stem scars down, somewhere out of direct sun. Green fruit picked ahead of a storm colors up in a paper bag with a banana tucked in for ethylene – a gas naturally emitted by bananas that speeds up ripening. Anything that doesn't turn red pickles beautifully.

3. Freeze them Whole on a Sheet Pan

Freezing tomatoes whole is the easiest way to go: no blanching, no peeling. Wash and dry a batch, then spread it in one layer across a sheet pan from Amazon. Freeze them solid before bagging so they stay loose rather than welding into a brick. The skins slip off under a warm tap later. Straight from frozen, they collapse into sauce quicker than they can fresh.

4. Roast them on a Tray

Soft ones and anything that sat a day too long belong here. Halve them and toss with olive oil and salt, then hold a low oven around 300F (150C) until they slump and go jammy at the edges – a couple of hours, unhurried. A full tray reduces to about two cups as the moisture leaves and the sugars pull together, and what comes out is far darker than what went in. Freeze it flat in portions – it thaws into sauce, or lands on bread as is.

5. Dry the Smallest Ones

Drying tomatoes is a great choice for the littlest specimens. Less moisture inside means less time on the trays, and they finish evenly instead of toughening outside while the middle stays damp. Halve them cut sides up and run a food dehydrator from Amazon at about 135F (57C) until they feel like leather rather than brittle chips. An oven set as low as it goes will manage it, at the cost of the kitchen for most of a day. Jars come next, shaken daily for a week; water beads on the glass mean another round of drying.

6. Save Seeds from the Best Plant

Only open-pollinated plants are worth saving from – hybrid seed comes back as something nobody planned. To save tomato seeds, squeeze the pulp of a few good ones into a jar with a splash of water, then leave it alone. A pale film forms across the top within a couple of days. That film is doing the work: the ferment strips off the gel coat that blocks germination and knocks back several seedborne diseases. Rinse, then dry the seed flat on a plate. Kept cool and dark, they will still come up even several years later.

7. Top the Vine

Indeterminate types climb until frost stops them, adding flowers that have no chance of finishing. Pruning tomatoes by cutting the growing tip roughly a month ahead of the average first frost redirects what remains into what is already on the vine, and it opens the canopy in the bargain. Determinate plants set their whole crop at once and need none of this. Thin the lowest leaves while the snips are out, since airflow near the soil tends to be poor by late summer.

8. Up the Potassium

Nitrogen at this stage buys foliage. Fertilize your tomatoes with a blend where potassium leads, such as Tomato-tone from Home Depot at 3-4-6, supports fruit quality instead of another flush of leaves. Water counts for just as much. Deep and regular beats a splash whenever someone remembers. Uneven moisture is behind the splitting, and behind most of the blossom end rot that gets blamed on soil calcium. A harvest like this is a good problem. Keep the water steady and the plant will go on handing fruit over right up to frost.

Cherry Tomato Essentials

Lavender makes any yard feel sun-drenched, softly scented and altogether dreamier – if you choose the best lavender variety for your climate, that is. Pick a lavender that's less than ideal and that billowy purple haze will be short-lived when a bitter winter, a prolonged soggy spell or relentless tropical heat takes its toll. Whether you want a fragrant border, a bee-friendly pot by the back door or armfuls of stems for drying, choosing the right lavender is the difference between a fleeting flourish and a plant that truly earns its place in your garden year after year.

Matching the best lavender variety to your USDA zone is the smartest place to start when growing this garden must-have. From hardy, yard-worthy choices for chilly northern regions to heat-loving types that can cope with the Deep South and beyond, this guide brings together one perfectly-suited lavender for every zone. Because, while those 'suitable for zone X' tags give you a pretty good indication of whether the plant will survive a particular climate, they paint too broad a brushstroke to tell you which varieties will truly thrive.

If you've ever visited a lavender farm, then you'll know how intense lavender color, fragrance and flower density can be – and you can be sure that's down to selecting the exact right variety for the conditions as well as good care.

Besides, there's far more to discover than the familiar purple classics, with white, pink and foliage-led lavender varieties all waiting in the wings. A clear lavender recommendation for every zone, practical lavender growing tips and plenty of planting inspiration will help you pick the perfect lavender for your plot. And with the exact right variety for your climate, you can turn a sunny spot into a richly scented, pollinator-friendly haven full of fragrant lavender blooms, wherever you garden.

Best Lavender for Zones 1-3: Munstead

Enjoying the dreamy scent of lavender in zones 1 to 3 is totally possible through the summer months with Lavandula angustifolia 'Munstead' if you grow it in a pot in your sunniest garden spot, and move to a bright, cool but frost-free spot through winter. That's an easy task if you pop a plant dolly with lockable wheels such as this indoor/outdoor caddy from Amazon under the pot.

‘Munstead’ is a classic English lavender with soft blue-purple flowers and a lovely culinary fragrance, and is compact enough to love life in a container. Because it blooms relatively early in summer, its flowers set a strong display even where the growing season is short and cool. This is a super variety to dry, too, and its edible flowers have a sweet, mild flavor so you can bring the scent and taste of summer to those long winter months. Munstead lavender plants are available from Burpee.

• Perennial outside in zones 4-9
• Full sun
• Flowers June-July
• Grows 18" high and wide

Best Lavender for Zone 4: Phenomenal

Lavandula x intermedia 'Phenomenal’ is a newer hybrid that’s a hardier, more adaptable lavender, coping better than most with cold winters down to around -20°F, summer heat and a little humidity. In fact, it's often touted as the toughest lavender, ever, so it's easily the best lavender variety for zone 4. While it laughs in the face of heat or cold, it does need good drainage so plant it in the sunniest, driest place you have – think raised beds, a gravel garden or beside a warm south-facing wall.

Its height and resilience makes Phenomenal lavender a fabulous choice for an informal hedge either side of a path, but it's equally good in a big pot near a bench for maximum fragrance appreciation. Its long purple flower stems are also excellent for cutting, drying and stuffing into homemade lavender bags. Phenomenal lavender plants are stocked by Burpee.

• Perennial in zones 4-9
• Full sun
• Flowers June-July
• Grows to 3' high and wide

Best Lavender for Zone 5: Exceptional

Another hybrid cross between English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) and spike or Portuguese lavender (Lavandula latifolia), Lavanadula x intermedia Exceptional brings a softer, more unexpected colour palette to zone 5. Its clean white flowers glow against narrow silvery foliage, especially in evening light, and it feels wonderfully fresh mixed with pale pink roses, white cosmos or blue salvia. Use Exceptional to light up the front edge of a sunny border or pop it in a plain terracotta pot for chic simplicity.

Exceptional lavender plants are available from Plant Addicts and this robust, resilient variety will thrive in zone 5, combining excellent cold hardiness to around -20°F with a remarkably long flowering season, provided the soil drains quickly.

• Zones 5-9
• Full sun
• Flowers June-August
• Grows to 28" high and wide

Best Lavender for Zone 6: Big Time Blue

Lavandula angustifolia ‘Big Time Blue’ is a fairly compact lavender with impressively large, deep violet-blue flower spikes. It’s an excellent choice for zone 6 because winters are cold enough to satisfy English lavender’s preference for a winter rest, while summers are warm enough to produce its beautifully plump flower spikes.

Its neat cushions of sweetly scented blooms will fill your yard with color and buzzing bees all summer long, making it especially well-suited for edging a paved courtyard, lining a walkway, or adding structure to a narrow border where larger lavenders would feel too bulky. Big Time Blue lavender plants are available from Plant Addicts.

• Zones 5-9
• Full sun
• Flowers June-August
• Grows 28" high and wide

Best Lavender for Zone 7: Provence

A cross between English lavender and spike or Portuguese lavender, Lavanadula x intermedia 'Provence' is a tall lavender with long flower wands, a strong fragrance and a wonderfully relaxed French-country look. It will produce exceptionally long flower stems and abundant blooms when given extended summer heat, making it the perfect choice for zone 7. Just give it plenty of room to stretch out and show off, rather than squeezing it into a tiny border, as it will flourish!

Provence lavender plants are stocked by Nature Hills and should be planted in a sun-drenched spot and allowed to become a slightly unruly billow of delicious perfume. Take advantage of this plant's slightly wilful nature and use it for softening the edge of a sunny driveway or creating a heavenly drift to meander through. The stems dry brilliantly for everlasting bunches and wreaths, too.

• Zones 5-9
• Full sun
• Flowers June-August
• Grows to 18" high and 24" wide

Best Lavender for Zone 8: Goodwin Creek Grey

‘Goodwin Creek Grey’ is the foliage-lover’s lavender that's expecially valuable in zone 8 because it tolerates heat, humidity and mild winters better than most English lavenders. Even summer temperatures that regularly reach 90°F won't phase this reliable bloomer! Its large, toothed, silvery-grey evergreen leaves add great texture even when the flowers take a break. And that's not often, as Lavandula x ginginsii 'Goodwin Creek Grey' is a hybrid cross that's sterile – which means it doesn't set seed so flowers for months and months. And the dark violet-blue spikes are just wonderful!

This variety has a slightly wilder, coastal-Mediterranean feel than a formal English lavender and it’s a great feature plant, especially in a large container or as a sculptural accent in a gravelly border, jostling among ornamental grasses, agaves and drought-loving salvias. Goodwin Creek Grey lavender plants are available to buy from the Winter Greenhouse Store via Amazon.

• Zones 9-11
• Full sun
• Flowers May-October
• Grows to 12" high and wide

Best Lavender for Zone 9: Sensational!

A cross between sweetly fragrant English lavender and Portuguese lavender which has a sharper, fresher scent, Lavandula x intermedia Sensational! has a perfume that's perfect for a hot day. This is a sturdy lavender with large dark-purple flowers that won’t flop at the first sight of rain or wind, and is particularly happy in zone 9 where warm summers encourage generous reblooming from May to September. This hybrid's improved tolerance of heat and humidity gives it an edge over fussier English types, too.

Hardy to about 0°F, the real strength of Sensational! is its sturdy flower spikes that hold up exceptionally well during hot summers, often continuing to bloom through prolonged periods of heat that cause other lavenders to fade. For this reason, it makes a superb backbone in a pollinator border or a striking focal point in a large container. Sensational! lavender plants are available from Plant Addicts.

• Zones 5-9
• Full sun
• Flowers May-September
• Grows to 24" high and 36" wide

Best Lavender for Zone 10: The Princess

Just as its name promises, Lavandula stoechas The Princess is gloriously theatrical, with bright pink flower heads and showy pink bracts that dance above the foliage. It’s ideal for zone 10 where, in frost-free or nearly frost-free climates, it will flower for months on end, often from spring through to fall.

The Princess lavender plants are available to buy at Lowe's, and this diva deserves a starring role that allows its dramatic Spanish character to shine through a long, warm season. Use it in a statement pot by a pool, at the center of a sunny courtyard, or mixed with white gaura and silver foliage for a gloriously elegant combo.

• Zones 8-11
• Full sun
• Flowers March-November
• Grows to 30" high and wide

Best Lavender for Zone 11-13: French

Rain and humidity are challenges for growing lavender in a tropical climate, but it's perfectly possible if you know which type to choose. So, if you're wondering which lavender to plant in zone 11, 12 or 13, look no further than French lavender (Lavandula dentata). For fragrance as well as looks, this warm-climate charmer with finely toothed leaves is a clear winner. Adapted to subtropical and Mediterranean climates with very mild winters, it will bloom almost continuously throughout the year, including during periods of intense heat.

French lavender plants are stocked by Plants Express and, while they're recommended for zones 8-11, you can stretch this by giving plants great air circulation to guard against fungal disease, and protection from heavy rain. Though it's a sun-lover, it's a smart idea to position it so it's shaded from intense midday sun, too. It hates to have soggy roots so plant in a tall pot filled with a fast-draining potting soil, placed on risers, then stand the container beside your outdoor sofa because you'll love this lavender's heady scent.

• Zones 8-11
• Full sun
• Flowers March-November
• Grows to 24" high and 54" wide

Lavender Secrets to Success in Any Zone

Lavender is one of the most ravishing purple flowers of all time and is super-easy to grow, providing you stick to these growing tips.

• Choose a location with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight a day.
• Well-draining, gritty soil is a must. Improve heavier soils with coarse grit and plant on a slight mound rather than in a dip and, if your ground tends to stay wet, consider planting in a raised bed, on a slope or in a container.
• In a pot, a suitably fast-draining soil is easily achieved by mixing a few handfuls of a succulent soil mix such as Jacks Gritty Mix from Amazon with any all-purpose potting soil. Raising the pot on risers such as these pot lifters from Amazon, too, is a must.
• Giving lavender plants a gravel mulch helps drainage, airflow and suppresses weeds, in pots as well as the ground.
• Avoid rich compost and heavy feeding as overly fertile soil encourages soft, floppy growth and fewer flowers.
• Water new plants regularly and deeply for their first season but let the soil dry between waterings. Once established, lavender is drought-tolerant, though you'll still need to water occasionally in extended dry spells, and more often in containers.
• Prevent fungal problems, especially in humid climates, by giving plants enough space to allow good airflow.
• Prune lavender immediately after flowering, and trim into shape in early spring, but never cut into old, leafless wood.

Half a watermelon forgotten at the back of the fridge stops being food quickly. The flesh turns grainy while the juice separates out, and the smell announces itself whenever the door opens. Into the trash it goes – several pounds of organic matter bound for landfill for no reason.

The garden has better uses for it, though none work the way people assume. Treating spoiled fruit as homemade plant food is sound enough as an instinct. A melon just isn't fertilizer and won't behave like one. What it offers is raw material, plus a side benefit for wildlife that rarely gets mentioned.

1. Turn Overripe Watermelon Into Natural Plant Food

Start with what a watermelon is made of. Roughly 92 percent is water, leaving a thin margin of sugars and fiber once that evaporates away. Drop a melon into a planting hole expecting a nutrient boost and the plant receives almost none of it – no nitrogen in a form roots can use, no phosphorus ready to take up.

Microbes have to get there first. Bacteria and fungi dismantle the flesh and rind into humus across several weeks, releasing minerals as they go. None of that is a knock against the melon. It's the same process running any compost heap. What comes out improves soil structure and moisture retention, with nutrients in forms roots can take up – exactly what raw melon fails to offer. You can do it yourself with this compost bin from Amazon.

How To Add Watermelon to Your Compost Pile

Chop it small first. A whole melon sits in a heap as a sealed unit, breaking down from the outside over months. Pieces cut to a few inches (8cm) across give the organisms far more surface to work on. Include the rind – tougher than the flesh and slower to go, but it composts fine.

Too much melon at once is where this goes wrong. Watermelon is a green in composting terms – wet and nitrogen-heavy, and a heap fed too much of it turns sour and airless. Every addition wants dry browns over it. Fallen leaves do the job, shredded cardboard too, at roughly two or three parts brown to one part melon.

Can You Bury Watermelon Straight in the Garden?

Trench composting skips the heap altogether. Pick an unplanted spot and dig down at least 12 inches (30cm). The chopped melon goes in the bottom. Backfill until a solid 8 inches (20cm) of soil covers it. Worms and soil bacteria handle the rest underground, out of reach of anything with a nose. A Fiskars transplant spade from Walmart reaches that depth quickly enough that there's no reason to cut the job short.

Depth is doing all the work here. Bury the fruit shallowly and it fails outright – raccoons and rats turn up within days, flies not long after. Leave the spot a few weeks before planting into it as well, since material in the thick of decomposition ties up soil nitrogen temporarily and leaves early plantings hungry at the wrong moment.

Save a Slice for Butterflies and Moths

Flowers aren't the only thing butterflies drink from. Red admirals (Vanessa atalanta) and commas (Polygonia comma) feed at rotting fruit quite happily, and some species seem to prefer it. Concentrated energy is part of the draw. Fermenting sugars also carry minerals and yeasts no blossom offers. Plenty of moths work the same way after dark – fruit-baiting is an old trick among the people who study them.

Late summer is when this counts. Nectar thins out as the flowering season winds down, right as butterflies building reserves for overwintering need it most. A slice of overripe watermelon fills that gap. Replacing anything is beyond it, though. Nectar-rich planting and host plants stay the foundation, and a fruit dish only makes sense in a garden that has both.

How to Make a Simple Watermelon Feeding Station

The setup asks almost nothing. One or two small slices on a shallow dish, somewhere flat and stable, is the whole of it. A terracotta plant saucer from Amazon suits the job because the low sides let butterflies land and reach the fruit without any climbing, and clay stays cooler than plastic under direct sun.

Keep portions modest. Two slices are easy to refresh and easy to rinse, while a plate piled high becomes a problem long before it gets finished. A splash of water stops the fruit drying to leather, and the damp seems to help the fermenting smell travel – which is how insects locate it at all.

Where to Place It, and When to Remove It

Placement decides whether this stays charming or turns irritating. Fermenting fruit draws wasps and ants as readily as butterflies, so the dish belongs well away from doors and anywhere people sit. A sheltered corner beside a hedge works better anyway, out of the wind, with cover close by for the insects using it.

Swap the fruit out every couple of days rather than letting a dish run on indefinitely. Old melon slumps into slime and grows mold, and by then it stops drawing the visitors you wanted. Rinse the saucer between servings, since residue builds fast in the heat. If wasp numbers climb past comfortable, pull the dish for a stretch. The butterflies find it again once it returns.

Avoid These Overripe Watermelon Mistakes

Scale is the big one. A whole melon parked beside a tomato as a natural feed does nothing measurable for the plant and a great deal for the local rat population. The smell alone makes that corner unpleasant for weeks. Whatever goes into the ground goes in chopped and deep, and the rest belongs in the heap.

Seeds are the surprise waiting at the end. They come through a cool heap intact, so unless the pile properly heats, expect volunteer seedlings wherever that compost lands. Sap beetles (Nitidulidae) and fruit flies (Drosophila melanogaster) gather around exposed fruit as well, and neither does real harm outdoors. Split the melon between its two jobs and none of this becomes trouble. A couple of slices go out for the butterflies, and the rest gets chopped into the heap or buried deep, quietly turning into next season's soil while nobody watches.

The cherries look fine one morning. But then, a couple of days later, there's a bare pit still clinging to the stem and half a dozen birds arguing in the branches over what's left. Birds don't nibble at fruit the way insects do. They arrive as a group, take the ripest fruit quickly, and move along to the next tree before you even notice.

Plenty of gardeners assume how to protect fruit trees from birds has to start with netting or a spray. But there’s an overlooked item already in your kitchen that works just as well. It’s just sitting in your kitchen drawer, only costs a couple of dollars to replace, and takes hardly any work to put up.

Find out which common kitchen product doubles as an eco-friendly and organic way to stop birds from eating all the fruit on your trees before you can.

Best Kitchen Product to Prevent Birds

You can use tin foil to deter common garden pests, like unwanted birds. It works as a visual and auditory deterrent that protects fruit trees from hungry winged visitors.

Sight runs the show for most birds. They feed and navigate visually, so a strip of tin foil shining in the sun throws bright, erratic flashes that read as movement where movement shouldn't be. This makes tin foil a good natural way to deter birds in the garden.

Their reaction to the tin foil is more of a reflex rather than reasoning. A bird approaching a branch gets a burst of glare at close range, which prevents it from landing. This makes the tree register as a place where something unpleasant lives and scares away the bird before it can land and eat your fruit.

Sound does its share of the work as well. Foil rattles and crackles at the slightest breeze. That noise combined with the flashing makes the whole display harder to dismiss and scarier to unwanted birds.

A shiny object hanging still doesn't have the same effect and birds figure that out quickly. Wind is the ingredient that turns foil into a deterrent, so a still day with no breeze to move the foil will always be the weak point of this method.

How to Use Tin Foil to Stop Birds

Strips of tin foil should be about 2 inches (5 cm) wide and 12 to 18 inches (30-45 cm) long to do the job. Fold each one in half lengthwise so both faces are reflective, then twist it once before tying, which keeps it spinning and reflecting light. A roll of Reynolds Wrap heavy duty aluminum foil from Walmart holds up through weather that shreds the standard gauge foil within a week.

Hang the strips of tin foil at the ends of the branches where the fruit actually is, not tucked against the trunk where birds won't see them. Hanging roughly one strip every 2 to 3 feet (60-90 cm) around the outside of the tree canopy is a reasonable starting density. You can add a few more on the side facing open ground since that's the approach most birds use. Tie loosely with twine and leave plenty of slack. A strip that can't move is a strip that isn't working.

Move Foil Every Few Days

Birds are quick studies. Give them a stretch of a few days with foil that flashes and never actually does anything and they'll be landing right next to it and eating your fruit again soon. Habituation is what sinks this method for the gardeners who say it doesn't work. But there's an easy fix to this issue.

Simply move the strips every few days – take some down, add others, shift them to different branches – so the pattern never stays the same. Alternating foil with reflective bird scare ribbon from Amazon can double the effects.

Timing matters, too, for moving around the tin foil. Hang the foil before the fruit ripens and colors up because a bird that has already tasted what's in your tree is far harder to deter than one that never got a sample.

Hanging tin foil a week ahead of first blush is about right. Waiting until the damage shows up means fighting an established habit rather than preventing one and habits are hard to break.

Limitations to This Method

There are a few limitations to this method to know about before trying it. This deterrent works well for certain types of backyard birds, but not for others.

European starlings move in flocks large enough that the birds at the back barely notice what spooked the front. American robins get bold about fruit they've already claimed. For a small tree carrying a crop that matters, Vigoro bird block netting from Home Depot is the only thing that ends the issue outright.

There are two other cautions worth having in mind to keep your trees healthy as well. Never wrap foil tightly around a trunk or a limb, since it traps moisture against the bark and invites problems that outlast the birds. This is a common fruit tree mistake when using this method.

It's also important to gather up every strip of tin foil at the end of the season instead of letting the weather tear them loose because shredded foil ends up in bird nests, your garden, and your lawn mower.

Other Bird Deterrents to Try

That tub of yogurt at the back of your fridge may have a second life in your garden, according to a surprising bit of advice making the rounds online. Yogurt does hold calcium and protein, which are two important nutrients tomatoes need to thrive. Though whether a tomato plant can use any of it is a separate question.

The claim that a spoonful of yogurt plopped into your watering can boost tomato growth turns up regularly in gardening forums, usually framed as a good calcium source for tomatoes. The logic runs that dairy is rich in calcium – and tomatoes often suffer from calcium problems – so giving plants a dose of dairy fertilizer can provide plants with what they need. But this theory isn't exactly accurate.

But yogurt isn't exactly useless in the garden. Use it alongside a proper tomato fertilizer and it could potentially give plants a little extra oomph. I'll walk you through the truth behind the claim that yogurt is a good fertilizer for tomatoes, how to try it out for yourself, and some precautions to take before using yogurt in your garden.

Why Gardeners Are Using Yogurt on Tomato Plants

Calcium is the main claim behind using yogurt as a tomato fertilizer. Blossom end rot ruins fruit every summer and a lack of calcium is often named as the culprit, so a tub of yogurt in the fridge is perhaps the nearest source on hand. Plain yogurt carries a fair amount of calcium by food standards, which makes the connection feel obvious.

The rest of the appeal spreads wider than just that one mineral, though. Yogurt is also a good source of protein and protein means nitrogen for plants.

Lactose is a sugar that soil microbes will eat readily, which can improve soil. Then there are the live cultures in yogurt, mainly Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. bulgaricus and Streptococcus thermophilus, which fit the popular notion of feeding soil biology as well. The tub was headed for the bin regardless.

Does Yogurt Tomato Fertilizer Really Work?

The case for yogurt as a calcium source for tomatoes falls apart once you really look at the numbers. A tablespoon (15 ml) of yogurt carries roughly 20 milligrams of calcium. A tomato in full fruit moves vastly more than that throughout a single season and the soil in which it grows is almost certainly holds a surplus already. So a spoonful of yogurt fertilizer doesn't make much of an impact.

Arithmetic isn't the real trouble, though. Calcium in dairy arrives bound to casein, which means soil microbes have to dismantle it before roots can reach any useful nutrients. Warmth and time do that work on their own timetable. Nobody decides when the nutrient turns up or whether it does so while the plant still needs it.

Blossom end rot is rarely a result of a shortage of calcium in the first place. It's more often a delivery failure. Uneven watering of tomato plants interrupts calcium moving into developing fruit, creating blossom end rot. Yogurt doesn't address the mechanism blocking the calcium, it only addresses the nutrient itself.

Best Type of Yogurt to Use

If you still want to try out this homemade tomato fertilizer anyways, choosing the right yogurt is key. Plain yogurt is the only version that belongs near a garden bed. Nothing else on the dairy aisle qualifies. A tub of yogurt is cheap and choosing nonfat leaves less greasy residue behind than the full fat stuff. Fruit, honey, added sugar – none of it should reach the garden.

Artificial sweeteners are the other thing to skip, since they bring nothing to the soil and nobody can say how the residues behave in a garden bed. Sugar-loaded yogurt causes a quicker problem, drawing ants, wasps, and rodents to the base of the plant. Flavored tubs also carry stabilizers nobody should pour on a garden.

How to Make Yogurt Tomato Fertilizer

Dilution does the safety work for yogurt tomato fertilizer. One tablespoon (15 ml) of plain yogurt stirred into a full 2 gallon (9 L) watering can is the strongest dose you should use. Stir it well so nothing settles into a lump, then pour slowly around the drip line of your tomatoes, roughly 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm) from the stem.

Follow with a can of plain water to carry the yogurt fertilizer below the soil surface, since dairy left sitting on top can cause problems. Keep every drop off the foliage as well. Damp residue on leaves in warm weather invites fungal tomato diseases far harder to fix than any nutrient shortage.

How Often to Apply

Applying yogurt tomato fertilizer once a month through the growing season is plenty and, often, less is fine. This belongs with small experiments rather than scheduled feeding, so there's little to gain from building a routine around it.

Anyone curious can run it properly. Treat one plant with the diluted mix, leave a matching plant untreated beside it and compare at season's end. That beats the anecdotes floating around online and it costs a single tub of yogurt.

What you should never do is replace a scheduled feed of traditional tomato fertilizer with only yogurt. A plant that doesn't receive real fertilizer and only yogurt just isn't being fed properly.

Mistakes To Avoid

Dolloping on a dose of yogurt fertilizer undiluted is a big problem for tomato plants. A blob of dairy on warm soil goes sour and draws flies. It can also set into a crust that sheds water instead of letting it through. Container plants suffer worst, since a pot holds little soil and none of the microbial diversity a bed uses to process organic matter.

Instead, if the goal is feeding the soil, a bag of Back to the Roots organic compost from Home Depot does that job properly.

Repeat applications of yogurt tomato fertilizer are the other trap. Residue accumulates and a spot treated over and over starts to smell bad and stays damp.

Signs to Stop Using Yogurt

A sour smell around the base of the plant means the residue is fermenting instead of breaking down cleanly. White or fuzzy growth across the soil surface signals the same issue. Scrape off what you can and flush the area with plain water.

Insects and animals can cause problems, too. Fungus gnats drifting around the stem are a sign something's wrong, but fruit flies more so. Soil turned over at night by raccoons or rats is the surest signal, since something has found the smell interesting. And a plant that looks worse than before the experiment started has already answered the question.

What to Use Instead

Fruiting tomatoes want steady nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, with an emphasis on the last two once flowering starts. Plants also need calcium and magnesium in amounts no kitchen leftover supplies. Espoma Tomato-tone 3-4-6 with 8% calcium from Amazon covers all a tomato needs in one product and yogurt simply can't compete.

Watering does more for blossom end rot than any additive from your fridge. Deep, even soakings in a steady rhythm with a few inches of mulch to hold in the moisture keep calcium moving into the fruit. All in all, save the yogurt for your breakfast. Invest in a good organic commercial tomato fertilizer or homemade compost instead.

Peppers hit an odd stretch in midsummer. The plants look their best right when the strain is heaviest, carrying a full load of fruit while the soil dries out by noon. Plenty of gardens quietly stop setting new pods in July, but the drop in production doesn't turn up until August.

The good news is that growing peppers in July comes down to a short list of jobs rather than a rescue mission. None of them take long. What they share is a focus on steadying the plant instead of pushing it. Even moisture matters more right now than any feeding schedule, and peppers coming off at the right point keeps the plant making more of veggies to eat.

Consistent care in July will set up your pepper plants for a huge harvest and continued healthy growth. Here are the most essential – but easy-to-do – tasks to check off your list before August arrives.

1. Fertilize for Fruit, Not Foliage

Nitrogen did what it needed to do in June. By July it starts working against your pepper plant, pushing leafy growth at the expense of flowers and leaving a big handsome pepper bush with very little hanging on it.

Plants already carrying fruit want less nitrogen and more phosphorus and potassium, which is why Lilly Miller Morcrop 5-10-10 tomato and vegetable food from Amazon matches the stage the plants are actually in.

Side-dress plants lightly instead of generously – work roughly a tablespoon per plant into the soil about 6 inches (15 cm) out from the stem, then water fertilizer in. Reapplying every three or four weeks is plenty.

After fertilizing peppers, it takes time for the results to appear. So there's nothing to judge the next morning and a heavy hand in midsummer heat can cause fertilizer burn that are already under pressure.

2. Water Deeply & Consistently

Blossom end rot in peppers usually isn't from a calcium shortage in the soil. It's actually a delivery failure. The plant can't move calcium into developing fruit when the ground swings from soaked to dust and back to damp after watering.

Water pepper plants deeply two or three times a week. They prefer that over a daily splash. Water plants on roughly the same schedule week after week. If you're unsure, a finger pushed 2 inches (5 cm) into the bed settles the question of whether or not you need to water again. If soil is dry at that depth that means water now.

Wet foliage is what leaf disease waits for, and is part of why a heavy-duty soaker hose from Home Depot beats a sprinkler. Water for 30 to 45 minutes along the row of plants so moisture soaks down at root depth with nothing landing on the plant.

Add mulch to hold in moisture and protect from heat. Use straw or shredded leaves at 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm) deep and the soil quits cooking by mid-afternoon.

3. Protect From Scorching Sun

Pepper flowers don't form or develop into fruit when days climb past 90°F (32C) and nights hang above 75°F (24°C). Pollen turns sterile, the flower drops, and the plant carries on looking perfectly healthy while setting nothing at all. It's a common reason a July pepper plant seems to quit for a few weeks, and the fruit already on board will keep sizing up through it, which hides the problem for a while.

Shade in the 30 to 40 percent range, run from late morning through the worst of the afternoon, can pull leaf temperature down enough to keep pollen viable. A panel of 40% sunblock shade cloth from Walmart hung on hoops or tied off between stakes does the job and comes down once the forecast eases. The plants keep enough light to carry on growing. It's a filter, not a lid.

4. Support Growing Peppers

Pepper stems are brittle and a branch loaded with fruit tends to split from the main stem during the first hard storm that comes through. That single break can take a third of the harvest with it. A plant that's already leaning has waited too long for support.

Stake pepper plants with supports driven 8 to 10 inches (20-25 cm) deep beside the main stem. 4-foot bamboo stakes with garden twine from Amazon are perfect for this job. Tie with a figure-eight so the stem isn't cinched against the stake and leave the tie slack so the trunk can continue to thicken through August. Attach ties loosely at two or three heights to support the whole plant.

5. Pick Early & Often

Peppers left to fully ripen on the plant send a signal that the season's work is done, so flowering slows to match. Sweet peppers picked at full size while still green will push the plant to set another round of fruit.

Picking sweet peppers early is fine. A green pepper on the counter is the same pepper it would have been in the garden, just minus a couple weeks of waiting. Harvesting hot peppers is the exception, since capsaicin keeps building as they color up.

Harvest peppers by cutting at the stem with pruners instead of pulling, since a tug can take the branch with the pepper. Check every two or three days once the fruit starts coming.

Pick anything that's split or showing soft spots, even if it's nowhere near ready. Damaged fruit draws common pepper pests and gives the plant no reason to keep working.

It’s a common myth that growing vegetables requires a lot of time, effort, expensive tools and even a greenhouse. Of course, it's perfectly possible to raise a garden of fussy veggies that need daily care, but there is a far easier way to grow your own: choose low-maintenance vegetable varieties that flourish even if you miss a day or two of care. Whether you're a beginner gardener or just short on time, selecting easy, speedy vegetables to grow will bring you tasty harvests in return for very little effort.

We're very familiar with ornamental plants that practically grow themselves, but vegetables? No plants can be completely neglected when you're growing vegetables, but some are far more forgiving than others. One of the most time-consuming chores is watering, and while all veggies need water, some types and varieties are naturally better at coping with hot weather, dry spells, and those days when you just don’t have the time – or will – to water.

These are fast-growing, heat-tolerant vegetables so can all be sown in July. The warm soil in summer will help seeds germinate quickly, so plants produce a good harvest before the growing season ends. That makes these vegetables a great choice for children to grow, too – or if you simply want to experience the childlike joy of an uncomplicated homegrown harvest. Here's our pick of easy-going veggies you can still sow in July.

1. Zucchini 'Black Beauty'

Zucchini is a classic summer veggie, known for its abundant production and mild, versatile flavor. ‘Black Beauty’ is one of the most dependable cultivars and, even in hot, dry weather, it still produces heavily. The large leaves shade the soil, keeping it a little cooler and helping retain moisture, enabling the plant to bounce back after a missed watering or two.

Ideal for zones 3 through 10, zucchini ‘Black Beauty’ seeds are available from Burpee. And it couldn't be easier to grow Black Beauty zucchinis. Sow seeds in soil in full sun, and make sure there is plenty of space between plants – while this variety only reaches a foot high, it can spread 5-7 feet (though this stem growth doesn't need to be over soil). Water deeply once or twice a week and your zucchinis should be ready to harvest about 50 days after sowing seeds, making this one of the best vegetables to sow in July. Harvest regularly while the fruit are still small (6-8 inches) for the best flavor.

2. Cucumber 'Armenian Dark Green'

‘Dark Green’ produces long, crisp cucumbers with no hint of bitterness. This is an excellent variety for a salad and for slicing to eat raw with dips, and is suitable for zones 2 through 10. The plants thrive in the heat of mid and late summer and grow readily and easily without too much intervention from you. The root system runs deep, so occasionally missing a watering won’t phase this cultivar.

Armenian Dark Green Cucumber seeds are available from Eden Brothers. Make sure you sow seeds in a spot with full sun and, if possible, provide a support for the vine to climb. While you can grow cucumbers along the ground, a trellis or fence keeps fruits out of the dirt and saves space. Water as consistently as possible and harvest the cucumbers when they are between 12 and 18 inches long, about 65 days after sowing the seeds.

3. Bush Beans 'Contender'

Growing bush beans is straightforward, and 'Contender' is a particularly forgiving variety as it will tolerate some dry periods. Forgetting to water this plant might slow production of tender, stringless bean pods, but it won't stop it altogether. ‘Contender’ is appropriate for zones 3 through 9.

Contender Bush Bean seeds are available from Eden Brothers. Direct-sow seeds for this bush bean in full sun, in the ground or a large container. Water regularly, but don’t worry if you do so imperfectly. Compared to other types, this variety continues to thrive in hot weather, and the beans should be ready in about 50 days after sowing. Harvest beans regularly to encourage more production.

4. Carrot 'Red Cored Chantenay'

When you're considering vegetables to sow in summer, don't discount carrots. 'Red Cored Chantenay' develops shorter roots than other cultivars, which makes it easier for new or time-pushed gardeners to get a good harvest, as the short length means they are less likely to turn out misshapen. This variety also has tops that tolerate heat well. An heirloom carrot variety, it has a sweet flavor and is great for eating raw and for cooking.

Red Cored Chantenay Carrot Seeds are available from Walmart. To grow carrots, sow seeds in place, either in the ground. Because of its shorter roots, this is also one of the best veggies to grow in containers for a productive kitchen garden on your patio. Suitable for zones 3 through 10, ‘Red Cored Chantenay’ does best in full sun or some dappled shade and with soil that stays consistently moist, especially in the seedling stage. While you’ll still enjoy a good harvest even with a little neglect, the best carrots develop with regular and consistent watering.

5. Okra 'Clemson Spineless'

Okra is an unsung hero of the garden, but if you learn how to cook this tasty veggie, you’ll benefit from a fast-growing plant that’s easy for beginners and busy gardeners to grow. The flowers are so pretty, too, and because the fruit pods grow vertically upwards, this is an attractive plant to have in your garden. It's a heat-lover, too, so this is one of the best vegetables to start from seed in July.

Even among other heat-loving okra varieties, ‘Clemson Spineless’ is extremely drought and heat-tolerant, thriving even if you neglect it a little or if the weather becomes unseasonably hot and dry. Clemson Spineless Okra seeds are available from Botanical Interests. Sow these okra seeds in a spot with full sun and water as regularly as possible. Grow okra and within 30 to 60 days, you’ll have tender young okra fruits to harvest. Okra is suitable to grow in zones 2 to 10, but hotter weather is best.

6. Pole Beans 'Rattlesnake'

Pole beans differ from bush beans in that they grow on a vine, and ‘Rattlesnake’ is a colorful variety of pole bean with pods striped in green and purple. Suitable for zones 4 through 10, this cultivar grows quickly, so you still have time for a good harvest this year.

It also forgives inconsistent watering better than other varieties, still providing a heavy yield, and Rattlesnake Pole Bean seeds are available from Eden Brothers. Sow seeds in full sun next to a support the vine can climb like a trellis, arbor, fence, or even patio banister. While it appreciates regular moisture, this pole bean will bounce back after short dry spells.

7. Black-Eyed Cowpeas

Cowpeas are easy to grow, and grow fast, with pods maturing in about 60 days after sowing. That cowpeas are often used as cover crops between growing seasons to maintain soil health and enrich it with nitrogen shows you how what a low-maintenance vegetable this plant is. But you can also grow this veggie for an edible harvest. Cowpeas grow in areas and conditions that are tough for other vegetables, and naturally form upright, bushy plants, so this is a great option for beginners and busy gardeners who want to be more hands-off.

Black-Eyed Cowpea seeds are available from Eden Brothers and you can grow cowpeas in zones 5 through 11 as they handle the heat of midsummer very well. You can harvest fresh pods or leave them to dry to use later. Sow seeds for cowpeas in full sun and water regularly until they get established. Then you can largely leave them alone, and the plants will still thrive.

Successful vegetable gardening isn’t about doing everything perfectly. Start with these forgiving varieties of tasty veggies and simply provide as much consistent care as you can. The plants will thrive and give you a good harvest, even when your care is imperfect.

Cyclospora has been all over the news this summer. An outbreak has affected thousands of people across more than thirty states, with investigators pointing to commercial lettuce and salad greens. The parasite behind it, Cyclospora cayetanensis, spreads through fresh produce that has picked up traces of human waste somewhere along the way – which raises an obvious question for anyone who grows their own food. Can homegrown vegetables carry Cyclospora?

The reassuring part is that the trouble rarely starts in the backyard. A home vegetable garden sits at the low-risk end here, because it skips much of the commercial supply chain – the industrial farms and shared packing equipment a bagged salad passes through before the shelf. You decide what water touches the leaves and what goes into the soil.

But while a homegrown salad beats a store-bought one right now, it's not totally risk-free. Check your gardening practices and follow these simple habits to keep your harvest clean and safe to eat.

How Cyclospora Spreads, and Why the Garden Is Lower-Risk

Cyclospora doesn't pass straight from person to person. An infected person sheds it in their stool, and the parasite needs at least 1–2 weeks to mature in the environment before it can infect anyone else. That lag is why contamination travels through water and soil rather than a quick touch. Raw produce is the usual vehicle, and it's the uncooked crops that keep turning up. Leafy greens lead the list. Fresh herbs like basil and cilantro make the list too, along with soft fruit like raspberries.

A store-bought salad has already been through shared irrigation water and packing equipment and a long refrigerated haul by the time it hits the bag. Pick your own, and you skip nearly all of that. Cooking shuts the door the rest of the way – according to NYC Health, Cyclospora is killed at around 158°F (70°C), so a stir-fry or a pot of soup poses almost no risk. Raw food is where the care needs to go. Salad and berries never meet heat, so the real job is keeping the parasite out of the bed to begin with.

How to Protect Home Vegetables from Cyclospora

Cyclospora is spread through food or contaminated water, so the risk in a vegetable garden is not just about hygiene – it can also come from unsafe manure, contaminated water, or poor sanitation practices. Community gardens can be a little higher risk if shared water, tools, compost, or hygiene standards are weak, but the same food-safety rules apply in home gardens too.

1. Only Use Water From a Clean Source

The biggest garden risk is irrigation water drawn from a creek or pond that could be catching sewage overflow or septic seepage. Stick to tap water or a tested well. A two-gallon watering can filled at the tap, such as this Expert Gardener design from Walmart, keeps surface water off your leaves.

If you collect rainwater in a barrel, know that rooftop runoff can carry other biological contaminants, including from bird droppings. For edible crops, this water should not be treated as automatically safe unless the system is well maintained and the water is used in a way that avoids contaminating produce. However, it's well worth using a rainwater barrel to water ornamental beds. This RTS Home Accents ECO Rain Barrel from Amazon holds 50 gallons.

2. Check Composting Practices

If contaminated vegetables went into a home compost pile, the pile could be exposed to Cyclospora, and with slow/cold composting, pathogens may not be destroyed. Hot composting that reaches and holds high heat is what breaks pathogens down, and a Reotemp compost thermometer from Amazon shows whether the pile is getting there. A cold pile that never heats up should stay clear of food crops.

Never use raw human waste – sometimes called night soil – in the garden. It can be a direct route for the parasite to reach your crops. Even if you have a composting toilet, it's not automatically safe to use it to grow food, so don't risk using it anywhere near vegetables that grow directly in the soil.

3. Wash Your Hands!

This one is less about the produce than the person handling it. A gardener who's picked up the parasite can carry it into the plot without realizing. Soap and water before you harvest, and again before anything hits a cutting board, shuts that door. It's simple insurance for a habit you half-do already.

4. Rinse Crops Under Running Water

Rinse everything thoroughly under running water before it reaches a plate. There's no need to use soap or produce washes. Scrubbing firmer produce with a brush, like this OXO vegetable brush from Amazon, lifts more off the skin than a quick splash.

Rinsing lowers the risk but won't fully remove Cyclospora, which clings tightly – so treat it as one layer, not a guarantee.

5. Keep Harvested Crops Off Dirty Surfaces

Once picked, keep produce off the ground and away from tools or anything that's touched soil or untreated water. A clean basket or bowl beats resting the harvest on a potting bench. Those last few feet are easy to overlook, and a common spot for clean produce to pick up what it just dodged.

6. Store and Chill Promptly

Get tender crops into the fridge soon after picking. Greens and herbs hold up far better cold than sitting out, and berries too. Chilling won't kill Cyclospora – it just slows spoilage and keeps other bacteria from multiplying while the produce waits. One more thing: hold off on washing until you're ready to eat, since produce stored damp breaks down faster.

Extra Cover: Cook or Peel What You Can

Washing is the everyday line of defense, but heat and a paring knife go further. Cyclospora can't survive proper cooking, so anything that goes into a hot pan or the oven stops being a risk – handy for crops that work either raw or cooked, like kale or green beans. Peeling helps too, lifting off the surface layer where the parasite would sit. Neither does much for a fresh salad, so sourcing and a good rinse still carry the load for raw produce.

Spot the Symptoms

Cyclosporiasis usually surfaces about a week after exposure, and the giveaway is watery diarrhea that can come and go for weeks if untreated. Appetite tends to fade alongside it. Cramping and bloating are common, nausea comes and goes, and the tiredness lingers. Healthy adults often ride it out, but it tends to relapse, part of why it's treated rather than waited out.

A course of the antibiotic trimethoprim-sulfamethoxazole usually clears it, so anyone with persistent watery diarrhea – especially with signs of dehydration – should see a doctor and mention the outbreak, since diagnosis needs a specific stool test that isn't run by default.

Frequently Asked Questions

Did you think the time to sow seeds for veggies was long over for this year? Many gardeners make that assumption, but there are several crops you can sow in July for a fall harvest. This is one of the best times to get a second round of vegetables for the season. The warm soil speeds germination, while the cooler temps of early fall are ideal for many crops.

A harvest of fall vegetables requires careful selection. Now is the time to sow seeds for quick-growing and cool-season veggies. Sowing now allows plenty of time for both options to grow into bountiful fall harvests.

Here are some of the best options for summer seed sowing and pro tips to help you get the most out of them.

1. Radishes

Radishes are among the fastest and most forgiving of all vegetables to grow. Depending on the variety, they can go from seeds to harvest in 25 to 40 days. You can probably get a few additional radish harvests this year if you start now. The later rounds will be even sweeter and crisper, as they develop and grow in cooler weather.

Sow radish seeds in beds, raised beds, or containers, as long as they are at least six inches (15 cm) deep. It’s important to keep the soil consistently moist as they grow to avoid cracked roots. If your July is very hot, wait until the end of the month to sow radish seeds. Find a wide variety of radish seeds from Burpee and try a few unique types you might have never tried before like Martha Washington's 'Early Scarlet Globe' radishes or watermelon radishes!

2. Carrots

Here’s another great root to start now for your fall harvest. Carrots started now will mature just as the first frosts of the season hit. This hit of cool triggers the starches in the roots to turn into sugars, giving you a very sweet fall crop. Carrots mature in 70 or 80 days. Park Seed offers a great selection of carrot seeds that will make a great addition to your veggie garden.

Raised beds are best for carrots, so they can develop full roots in good soil that is free of rocks. You don’t want to transplant them, so place the seeds where you want the carrots to grow. Keep the soil moist and thin the seedlings as they develop.

3. Beets

Yet another tasty root for fall harvests, beets can be sown now in the heat of midsummer and harvested between 50 and 70 days later, depending on the variety. They grow and develop best as the weather begins to cool. You can use raised beds, garden beds, or big containers to grow beets.

Thinning seedlings is particularly important for beets. Overcrowding interferes with root development. Make sure the soil stays consistently moist, or you risk woody roots. While waiting for the roots to mature, you can harvest and eat the greens. Burpee has some great heirloom beet seeds available including the unique and beautiful Chioggia beet!

4. Bush Beans

Bush beans are an example of a quick-growing veggie you can sow in July. They won’t do well in cold fall weather, but if you start now, you’ll get a good harvest before the first frost. Keep harvesting the beans as they develop to encourage ongoing production.

Bush beans germinate well in warm soil, and they grow fast, maturing in 50 to 60 days. You can grow bush beans in beds or in large containers as long as you can keep the soil moist. It’s especially important to water deeply while the plant is flowering. Heirloom Blue Lake bush bean seeds from Mountain Valley Seed Company on Amazon are high-yield and great for home gardens.

5. Kale

Kale is one of the most iconic of fall veggies. It can grow well into fall and even early winter, depending on your location and climate. While greens are known for being a little tough and bitter, kale sweetens nicely as it matures in cold weather and especially after a frost. Grow it in beds or large pots.

If you’re sowing seeds for baby kale, you can start harvesting after about 30 days. Botanical Interests has Red Russian kale baby greens seeds that are ready in 25 days! For mature kale, you’ll need 55 to 70 days. Keep harvesting the outer leaves as the kale grows. Keep soil moist and use mulch if necessary.

6. Spinach

Spinach also thrives in the cool weather of fall, and it grows fast, maturing in 35 to 50 days. You can harvest baby spinach in as little as 20 to 25 days. Because it’s such a fast grower, sow seeds every one to two weeks for regular fall harvests.

The heat of July can be a little tough on spinach, so start with varieties that don’t bolt readily and keep seedlings shaded in hot weather. Bloomsdale long-standing (bolt-resistant) spinach seeds can be found at True Leaf Market. Water regularly to keep the soil moist and cooler.

7. Brassicas

All of your brassicas can be planted now, including kale of course, but also broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, and cauliflower. They take between 80 and 100 days to mature, depending on type and variety.

The brassicas thrive in cooler weather, but they might need some help staying cool if your July and August weather is too hot. Keep the soil moist, use mulch, and use shade cloths as needed. Another option is to sow these seeds indoors now and transplant them outside when the weather has cooled a little.

Pro Tips for Maximizing Your Fall Harvest

Master gardeners get more out of their fall harvest with succession planting. Sow seeds every week or two instead of all at once. This staggers and extends your harvest time.

Sowing seeds in the heat of summer can be risky. Keep the soil moist and use a light mulch to keep it cooler. Consider using a shade cloth during particularly bad heat waves. Pull weeds as seedlings sprout and thin out crowded seedlings.

At the other extreme, if you get a cold snap in fall, use row covers to protect the more delicate vegetables. For most of these crops, a light frost actually enhances the flavor.

July isn’t the end of your growing season. For many fall crops, it’s just the beginning. Sow fast-growing, cool-weather plants now for fresh produce and an extended harvest this season.

Pick a handful of basil at seven in the morning and again at three in the afternoon from the same plant and taste them side by side. The morning leaves will undoubtedly taste better – sharper, more perfumed, the flavor sitting right up front. The afternoon leaves will likely be flatter, a little grassy, and missing whatever it was that made them worth growing. But nothing about the plant changed, only the clock did.

There is chemistry behind this change and it’s important to understand why flavor is so different depending on what time you harvest vegetables and herbs. Knowing how to harvest vegetables at the right hour turns out to matter about as much as knowing when plants are ready to pick. Water moves through a plant on a daily cycle. So do its sugars and the volatile oils that carry aroma, though not all of plants’ flavor peak at the same time.

Pick plants at the right point in the cycle and you’ll taste the difference. Harvest at the wrong time and the flavor will fall flat. I’ll share the best time of day to harvest some common vegetables and herbs for the peak flavor.

Why Flavor Changes

Overnight, a plant refills. With the sun down, transpiration more or less stops while the roots keep pushing water upward. So, by dawn, the cells are packed tight and under pressure. Pressure is what you're hearing when a cucumber snaps rather than bends.

Harvest a head of lettuce at first light and it will stay crisp in the fridge for days. Cut the same head at noon and it goes limp much quicker, having never had the chance to fill back up before harvesting.

Volatile oils follow their own schedule, too. In herbs, the compounds that carry aroma build up through the cool hours and start burning off as leaf temperature climbs, which is exactly what you're smelling when you brush past a rosemary bush on a hot afternoon. That perfume in the air is the flavor that has already left the plant.

Sugars run the opposite direction, accumulating through the day as photosynthesis does its work, which sets up a small conflict worth being aware of.

Plants That Change Flavor the Most

There are herbs that shift in flavor more depending on the time of day you harvest them. Basil carries its character in essential oils that thin out under direct sun, and mint, oregano, and thyme behave the same way.

Cut them early in the day when the oil content is at its peak. A pair of Fiskars micro-tip snips from Amazon makes clean cuts that don't crush the stem tissue, which can make herbs lose even more flavor – a mashed stem bleeds oils you were trying to preserve.

Then there are the leafy greens. Heat turns lettuce bitter. Warmth nudges the plant toward bolting and the milky latex sitting in those ribs results in bitterness in your salad.

Cucumbers pull a similar trick under stress, concentrating cucurbitacin. Corn is its own separate headache. Sugar in a harvested ear starts turning to starch right away and an ear picked in the heat of the afternoon does this quicker than one picked in the cool of the morning.

The Best Time to Harvest Veggies & Herbs

The best time to harvest herbs and vegetables is in the early morning, once the dew has dried, but before the sun has any real heat in it. Somewhere in that window – an hour or two after sunrise – is ideal.

The plant is at full turgor, the oils are still where they belong, and the tissue itself is cool enough that it won't start breaking down the moment it's off the vine. But wet foliage is something that needs to be avoided, too, since water sitting on cut surfaces invites rot in storage. So wait for dew to dry.

Get the harvest out of the sun quickly. A Fiskars harvest basket from Walmart lets produce be rinsed and drained in the same container into which it was picked.

For a big morning's harvest, a basic cooler chest from Target parked in the shade holds everything at temperature until it goes inside to your fridge. Field heat is the enemy here. Every degree a vegetable or herb carries into the kitchen means respiration eating its sugars.

Evening after the heat has broken makes a reasonable second choice for the best produce picking time. It’s better than harvesting at noon by a wide margin, and much better than not picking at all.

The Worst Time to Harvest Veggies & Herbs

Mid-afternoon on a hot day is the worst time to harvest. The plant has been losing water for hours, the leaves are slightly wilted even if they don't look it, and the volatile compounds have been cooking off since mid-morning.

Anything picked then arrives warm, soft, and already expending its own sugars to stay alive. Refrigerating produce slows that down, but it doesn't reverse anything. Once an herb's oils are gone, no amount of careful storage brings them back.

There is one complication, though. Because sugars build up through the day, some crops like carrots, certain tomatoes, and sweet corn can taste measurably sweeter when picked in late afternoon or early evening than when harvested at dawn.

Growers who care about sugar content sometimes pick at that time, accepting the wilt and cooling the harvest fast to compensate. But for the average garden, morning still wins, since crispness and aroma are what a home cook notices most.

If you love to cook, you already know how much herbs add to a recipe. But what if, instead of using dried herbs or quick-grown packaged herbs from the grocery store, you could pluck fresh, tasty herbs right from your own backyard? Because you'll be shocked how much more flavorful homegrown herbs are.

Most are so simple to grow, too. Many home cooks assume growing herbs is only for the greenest of thumbs, but these plants are very forgiving. Our selection of beginner-friendly herbs are especially easy to grow, and you don't need to have any specialist gardening knowledge to raise them successfully. All thrive in containers, too, so even if your garden space is a doorstep or a balcony, you can grow them. Not only do homegrown herbs taste so much better, they'll save you money, too.

There are many varieties to choose from that you simply can't buy in stores, so there's a world of flavors waiting to be explored. Be warned, though: once you start a herb garden and realise the difference adding fresh leaves makes to all your dishes, you'll want to grow more.

Why Herbs Are Great for Beginner Gardeners

Most popular culinary herbs originate from countries bordering the Mediterranean Sea such as Italy, Greece and Spain. There they evolved to thrive in a hot, dry climate, often in poor, sandy soil – and this makes them very easy to grow. Get the basics right (and they're detailed below), and you can't go wrong.

The varieties we’ve chosen here are particularly forgiving and are the best herbs for beginner gardeners, and can be grown in beds or containers. Many gardeners like to grow herbs in a raised garden bed with wheels such as this from Amazon. This puts your herbs at a good height for harvesting and keeps them away from slugs and snails, and you can wheel the planter from back door to barbecue to outdoor dining table for easy pickings.

To replicate the fast-draining conditions herbs have evolved in, grow your plants in fast-draining soil. You can buy potting soil designed especially for herbs such as Rosy Soil Herb, available from Amazon, or use a multipurpose potting mix with moisture control such as Miracle Gro Moisture Control Potting Mix, also available from Amazon.

The Easy Herbs Every Cook Should Grow

1. Basil

Topping our list of easy herbs to grow, basil is often known as the king of herbs for its elegant aroma and flavor. It’s a must-have herb in Italian dishes, including pizza, pastas, pesto, and any recipe with tomatoes. Basil grows quickly from seed and is highly productive, giving even first-time gardeners a good harvest.

Grow basil in a warm spot that gets at least 6 hours of sun a day. Harvest early and often by pinching off leaves, which encourages more growth. Don’t let flowers develop, though, as this changes the flavor of the leaves – just pinch flowerbuds off as you spot them.

Basil doesn't tolerate the cold so in most zones, it's best to sow anew every spring, or take the pot indoors over winter. It can be overwintered outside in zones 10 and 11. There are all sorts of basil varieties to choose from, offering a surprising spectrum of flavors, from classic Italian Genovese to sweet Purple Petra and citrus Lemon Basil, with seeds available from Botanical Interests. If you don't want to wait for seeds to grow, then you can buy Sweet Basil plants from Lowes.

2. Mint

Mint is a versatile culinary herb, useful for everything from meats and salads to teas and desserts. It’s also good for your digestion, and it's quick and easy to steep leaves in just-boiled water to make an after-dinner herb tea. Harvest leaves regularly by pinching or snipping off entire stems.

Mint is among the easiest of all plants – not just herbs – to grow in sun or partial shade. In fact, it's so enthusiastic that you should only grow mint in a pot, and stand that container on hard ground lest the roots escape from the drainage hole. Grown in the ground, runners will shoot out in all directions and can take over big areas.

Hardy in zones 3 through 11, once you've planted mint it will be with you practically forever! Regular common mint is quick and easy to grow from seed, and you can buy seed from Amazon. There are over 7,500 varieties of mint though, and each has its own flavor, so do explore. A great one to try is Chocolate Mint which has a mint-choc-chip flavor, and plants are available from Nature Hills Nursery.

3. Chives

Chives provide a delicate onion flavor perfect for potato dishes, dips, eggs, and salads. It’s very easy to grow chives in a variety of conditions, even partial shade, as long as the soil drains well. Chive plants are hardy in zones 3–10 and are quick to grow from seed, and Burpee has some flavorful varieties to choose from.

The flowers are also edible, and very pretty, making chives one of the best herbs to grow. There are even varieties that have been bred to be more ornamental with bigger flowers, with the leaves just as flavorful, such as Chivette Chives, and plants are available from Nature Hills Nursery.

To harvest chives, use a sharp pair of scissors to snip leaves off at the base. Do not pull them out by the root. Harvest chives regularly not just to enjoy them in the kitchen, but also to keep the plant from getting too crowded.

4. Parsley

Parsley is one of the most versatile of culinary herbs and a workhorse in the kitchen. Use it whenever you want a green herby flavor to lighten a heavy dish. It works well in stocks, soups, and stews, and in parsley-heavy condiments and salads, like chimichurri and tabouleh.

Parsley is hardy in zones 5 through 9, though it's a short-lived plant so it's easier to sow fresh every year, in all zones. Burpee stocks a great selection of seeds, including the very flavorful flat-leafed parsley. Or, if you're impatient to get cooking, Flat Italian Parsley plants are available from Lowes.

You can grow parsley in full sun or partial shade, and harvest by cutting stems at the base from the outside of the plant, not the centre.

5. Thyme

Thyme works well in heavy, flavorful dishes, including stews, cooked meats, and roasted vegetables. In the garden, thyme is a drought- and heat-tolerant sun-lover that thrives even when neglected. Grow thyme in soil that drains very well, as this plant can even cope with sandy or rocky conditions. In zones 5 through 9, thyme plants will last for years.

You can buy culinary thyme seeds from Eden Brothers, or skip straight to the good bit with English Thyme plants from Lowes. To harvest thyme, trim off the tender, non-woody stem tips frequently throughout the growing season.

6. Rosemary

Like thyme, rosemary is a forgiving herb that grows well even in dry, hot conditions. Also like thyme, it needs full sun and very good drainage, and won’t tolerate soggy soil or wet roots. A plant will last for years and you can grow rosemary outdoors year-round in zones 8-11; if you grow this herb in cooler climates, then it needs to be overwintered indoors.

Rosemary is very slow and tricky to grow from seed, so buy an established plant, available from Lowes.

Harvest rosemary by snipping off the tender green tips of stems and enjoy their bold, piney flavor in robust dishes such as stews, roasted meats and vegetables, and sauces. It’s even good in baked goods like breads, scones, and crackers.

7. Oregano

Oregano is a staple in many Mediterranean dishes and also commonly used in Mexican recipes, so this is a versatile herb with an earthy flavor you can use in many ways. It pairs very well with tomatoes and roasted vegetables, and is a must on pizza.

Oregano grows readily in full sun and hot conditions. Once established, it won’t need to be watered often, and thrives outdoors in zones 4 through 10. This isn't the easiest plant to grow from seed, so we recommend buying a plant, and Italian Oregano is available from Lowes.

Harvest leaves by snipping off tips and stems before the plant blooms, as flower development changes the flavor.

8. Cilantro

Yet another versatile herb on this list, cilantro is popular in Mexican, Asian, and Middle Eastern cuisines. It is a divisive herb and you either love it or you hate it! If you love cilantro, you’re in luck because it’s quick and easy to grow from seed, with a good selection stocked by Burpee. If you're a big cilantro fan then regular cilantro is for you; if not then do try Confetti Cilantro which as a more subtle taste.

Most folk in all zones grow cilantro fresh from seed every year as it's so fast-growing, though plants will survive outdoors year-round in zones 8-11. However, cilantro tends to bolt (go to seed) very quickly in temperatures above 50°F, when the taste becomes bitter. In hotter zones, grow new variety Calypso Cilantro, which is far slower to bolt and also available from Burpee.

Harvest cilantro by plucking leaves and stems from the outside of the plant.

Expert Herb-Growing Tips

While growing herbs is generally easy, these expert growing tips will ensure a bountiful, flavorful harvest:

• Read the plant label or online description to understand what conditions it will thrive in.
• You can plant herbs that like the same conditions in one planter. Thyme pairs well with rosemary as they both like dry conditions, while cilantro is a good pot-mate for basil as they both prefer more moisture. If you're planting your herbs in a raised bed, simply put those that like drier conditions at one end and those that prefer more moisture at the other. It's best to give mint its own pot as it's a bully of a housemate!
• If you're growing herbs in pots, they'll need watering regularly as the soil will dry out more quickly than if they were planted in the ground. Be careful not to overwater, though, especially with Mediterranean herbs like rosemary, thyme, and oregano.
• Don’t bother with fertilizer as most herbs don’t need it. In fact, too much feeding can reduce the concentration of flavorful oils in the leaves.
• Harvest your herbs regularly. Not only does this give you a steady supply of culinary ingredients, but it also encourages the plant to grow more.
• Extend the growing season by bringing pots indoors for winter. Place them by sunny windows to get year-round harvests.

Common Herb-Growing Mistakes

These herbs are very forgiving, even for newbies, but it’s still possible to make mistakes. Avoid these common pitfalls:

• Overwatering – this is the number one killer of new herb plants!
• Harvesting more than one-third of the plant at a time. It's important to leave enough leaves for the plant to photosynthesize.
• Letting herbs flower, also known as bolting, which stops leaf production and changes the flavor.

Fresh herbs offer some of the biggest gardening rewards for the least effort. If you like to cook but are new to gardening, don’t be intimidated. Herbs are much easier to grow than you think, especially if you start with these beginner-friendly options.

A natural, calorie-free sweetener you can grow in your own home garden? Sign me up! You may have seen powdered stevia sweetener on grocery store aisles, but you can grow your own much more cheaply and use your harvest year-round.

The stevia plant (Stevia rebaudiana) is an herb native to Brazil and Paraguay and hardy in USDA Zones 9-11. However, you can grow it as an annual in other zones and it makes a particularly nice container plant or addition to a kitchen garden.

Unlike artificial sweeteners, stevia is a natural source of sweetness and, unlike sugar or honey, it has zero calories. You can grow stevia from seed or buy a live stevia plant from Hirt’s Gardens on Amazon. Let’s explore how to grow and use stevia as a natural, homegrown sweetener!

How to Grow Stevia Plants

Did you know that stevia is 200-300 times sweeter than white sugar? Pretty impressive for such a lowkey plant, and you can easily grow your own to sweeten any recipe.

Stevia plants like warmth and well-drained soil. While they are perennial herbs in USDA Zones 9-11, they can be overwintered indoors in cooler climates or planted anew every spring. Plant your stevia plants 18 inches apart in the ground or a raised bed, or plant one in a 12-inch porch pot.

Stevia likes consistent moisture but you shouldn’t let the soil become soggy. A simple soil moisture meter from Amazon will help you to keep track of the moisture levels, or water when the top inch of soil is dry.

Ensure your stevia plants get 6 or more hours of sunlight, and cut off any flowers that might pop up to help the leaves retain their sweetness.

Stevia leaves are most sweet during the fall when temperatures begin to cool off, but they can still be harvested and enjoyed through the spring and summer.

How to Use Stevia Plants as a Natural, Sugar-Free Sweetener

There are a couple different ways to use stevia leaves to sweeten your culinary adventures. Leaves can be used fresh, dried, or as an infusion. Stevia plant leaves are about a quarter of the sweetness of commercially available stevia powders, so it is harder to over-sweeten things.

Note: Stevia leaves and commercial stevia powders should not be consumed during pregnancy without first consulting your doctor.

1. Using Fresh Stevia Leaves

A great way to use your homegrown stevia is fresh off the plant! Take a leaf, drop it in a mug and pour your hot tea or coffee over it to extract its sweetness.

You could do the same thing if making a batch of iced tea this summer! Boil water, place tea bags and 4-5 stevia leaves in your pitcher, and pour the water in. Let it cool and add some ice for a sugar-free taste of summer!

2. Using Dried Stevia Leaves

Again, your stevia will be the sweetest at the end of the growing season, but you can harvest all season long. In order to save the sweetness for your cups of tea this fall and winter, harvest and dry your leaves to use as a powder.

Snip off stevia stems and strip the leaves off of them. Place the leaves on a kitchen towel in the sun to dry out for a couple days or use a food dehydrator like this highly-rated one from Amazon to speed things up. Once the leaves are dry, blitz them in a food processor or spice grinder to turn them into a powder that can be stored in an airtight container.

Take a little pinch and add it to your food and beverages for a boost of sweetness!

3. Make a Stevia Leaf Infusion

A great way to use your stevia leaves is in an infusion. You can make an infusion with water, or by using vodka and cooking off the alcohol in it.

To make an infusion with water, rinse and coarsely chop ½ cup of stevia leaves. Place in a jar and pour 1 cup of warm water over top. Steep for 24-36 hours and strain out the leaves. You could also use a teapot with a removable tea infuser basket like this one from Amazon. Store your infusion in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 1-2 weeks.

To make an infusion with vodka, rinse and coarsely chop 1 cup of stevia leaves. Place leaves in a lidded jar with 1 cup of any brand of vodka, cover, and shake the jar. Ensure all the leaves are covered by the vodka and let sit for no more than 48 hours. Strain out the leaves and pour the infusion into a small saucepot. Simmer the vodka infusion on the stove for 5-7 minutes to cook off the alcohol and store in an airtight container in the fridge for 2-3 months.

Stevia is a wonderful way to sweeten beverages and food naturally without adding sugar and extra calories. Add this unique herb to your garden and get ready for a sweet reward!

Lavender is one of the classic sun-loving, drought-tolerant plants from the south of France and Italy, so it’s easy to think that it’s tough enough to take whatever summer extremes come your way. But this iconic beauty with its vibrant purple blooms and aromatic foliage needs some help to make it through the season. July can bring sweltering heatwaves and intense bouts of sunshine that can wilt many a perennial. So a little midsummer TLC is key to sustaining those vibrant hues and potent oils.

Just because lavender originates on sun-baked Mediterranean hillsides, that doesn’t mean it thrives on neglect. While established plants are drought tolerant, some midsummer lavender care can make all the difference to its vitality and longevity. If you leave your lavender to its own devices during a hot July, you risk accelerating its transition into seed production, which shuts down the flowering cycle early. Worse, improper care now can trigger root rot or stunt growth, leading to that leggy look every grower dreads.

Fortunately, keeping your lavender in peak health is easy. By dedicating less than an hour this week to these 5 simple checks, you will promote a lasting splash of purple vigor and vitality throughout the season, guaranteeing a garden filled with humming pollinators and intoxicating scent all summer long.

How to Help Your Lavender in July

It’s finally July and time to reach for the sunscreen! As the month begins, your garden is thriving, and hopefully you’ll be seeing flowers everywhere. However, the scorching sunshine and limited rain will soon take its toll, wilting blooms and baking leaves. Certain perennials do very well in hot sun, and lavender is actually one of them. But these timely lavender care tasks will help you to get even more from your blooms, both in terms of flowering windows and aromatic potency.

How you approach midsummer care will depend on the type of lavender you are growing and your local climate. The three main lavenders are English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia, such as Hidcote or Munstead), French or Spanish lavender (L. stoechas), and the robust hybrid Lavandins (L. x intermedia, like Grosso). These respond slightly differently to the midsummer elements. English lavenders are cold-hardy (USDA zones 5-8) but can struggle with excessive humidity, while Spanish types thrive in warmer hardiness zones (7-10) but have a shorter individual lifespan and a different blooming rhythm that peaks earlier.

Whether you’re growing your lavender in the ground or in containers presents its own challenges. Ground-based lavender benefits from an expansive, deep root system that can search for subterranean moisture, making it resilient against all but the most severe droughts. In contrast, container lavender lives in an artificial microclimate. The limited soil volume inside a pot will heat up rapidly under the July sun, drying out within hours and running the risk of baking the delicate root network.

Take a few minutes to check your soil’s existing condition. Investing in a multi-purpose soil diagnostic tool like the Raintrip 4-In-1 Meter, available from Amazon, is an excellent way to eliminate the guesswork, allowing you to check root-zone moisture and also light levels. If need be, amend with a little coarse sand or perlite to ensure the site is well draining before starting on these tasks.

1. Water Deeply but Infrequently

Lavender is not a plant that needs a lot of water. In fact, keeping lavender’s soil wet is a sure way to kill the shrub. But that doesn’t mean that lavender has no need for water. While lavender is very drought tolerant, every plant needs some moisture, and that need comes to the fore in summer. The question is not whether to water lavender in summer, but how to do it.

In July, water your lavender deeply, once a week. Prioritize depth over frequency. When you give a plant a frequent, shallow sprinkle of water, you encourage its root system to stay near the surface of the soil, where it remains vulnerable to being scorched by the afternoon heat. Watering deeply gets water to the bottom of the plant’s roots, around 24 inches (60cm) below the soil surface.

By applying a slow, deliberate drench directly at the base of the plant once a week, you encourage the roots to plunge deeply into the ground, reinforcing the plant’s natural drought defenses. This is especially true for heavy-blooming English varieties like Munstead, which require a reliable touch of moisture to sustain their heavy flower flushes without dropping their lower leaves.

Use a targeted delivery system like the Teknor Apex Zero-G Lightweight Vinyl Hose from Walmart to deliver a gentle stream at the soil line. For containerized lavenders, check them every 2-3 days using a moisture probe. When the top couple of inches (2cm) of compost feel dry, drench until water leaks from the drainage holes.

2. Move Containers into Full Sun

Lavender loves full sun, so July is a perfect time to check the positioning of all potted plants. Just because your container was in full sun back in May, that doesn’t mean it is still getting adequate light in July. As trees leaf out and neighboring perennials reach maximum height, a potted lavender can easily get thrown into partial shade.

If your plant doesn’t get 6-8 hours of unobstructed sunlight daily, its essential oil production plunges, stems grow weak and floppy, and soil stays damp for longer. Avoid tucked-away corners, north-facing shadows of walls, or dense groupings beneath patio umbrellas. And where you see potted lavender sulking in the shade, this is your time to take action and move it somewhere with more direct sunshine.

At the same time, check the soil in the container. Be sure that it is sandy or gravelly so that it drains well. If you find that the soil is clay, repot the plant and mix gravel or sand to allow the water to drain away from the roots. If your container plants are struggling with dense, compacted soil, add a little Miracle-Gro Potting Mix, available from Home Depot, along with some coarse grit or sand for the perfect porous base.

3. Avoid Pruning Lavender in July

Lavender plant care involves both actions you need to take and actions you must avoid. You probably pruned your lavender plant in spring to clean it up after winter. Another pruning is needed – but the timing is important. You need to prune lavender for the second time after the plant has stopped blooming, and that time is not July.

Pruning stimulates aggressive new, tender green growth. In the middle of July, these young shoots will be scorched by the intense sun, draining the plant's core energy reserves and leaving it susceptible to winter dieback. So resist any structural pruning until late August or early September, once the final flowering cycle has concluded.

However, you can (and should) deadhead spent lavender blooms through July. Remove faded flower spikes down to the first set of clean leaves, just above where new buds are forming. This channels plant energy into a second summer flush of color. To do this cleanly without crushing stems, use a razor-sharp tool like team favorite Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears, available from Amazon.

4. Monitor for Pests and Diseases

Lavender has grown happily on sun-baked Mediterranean hillsides for thousands of years. The general idea in France is: plant it in direct sun, give it top drainage, and leave it be. But you need to watch out for two different threats in midsummer. The first (and worst) is a plant disease known as root rot. It results from wet soil and can kill the plant.

If your plant seems to be turning brown or yellow, dig in the soil and look at the roots. If they are black or mushy, pull out and toss the plant. In July, root rot is likely caused by overwatering, which means you can avoid this problem if you water your plant appropriately and check air flow. Where plants are healthy, drenching the surrounding soil with a little Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide from Walmart can help suppress the fungal spores and protect adjacent healthy tissue.

Pests are the second threat, though less serious. Keep a look-out for aphids, whiteflies, and spittlebugs. Wash them off with the hose, or apply an insecticidal soap. Avoid harsh chemical pesticides that wipe out bees and butterflies. Instead, opt for a gentle blast of water from the hose, or use a pre-mixed, pollinator-safe soap, like Bonide Ready-to-Use Insect Soap from Amazon.

5. Add Mulch to Keep Down Weeds

Usually, you mulch plants to help hold moisture in the soil. This is not the case with lavender, which does best in dry, well-drained conditions. Traditional mulches, such as shredded hardwood or bark chips, are not a good idea. These trap moisture and form a cool, damp layer over the soil surface, inducing wood rot and fungal blight.

That said, you do still need to add a layer of mulch beneath your lavender. The idea is to keep down weeds and prevent the soil from getting too hot. But the best mulch for lavender is mineral based. A two-inch (5cm) layer of clean pea gravel, washed river stone, or crushed white quartzite helps to reflect heat, bouncing the intense July sunlight back up into the lower canopy of the shrub.

This extra light exposure directly stimulates the oil glands within the foliage, resulting in a noticeably more fragrant growing space. Furthermore, these stones dry out instantly after a summer storm, keeping the crown dry. For a quick and efficient lavender mulch, buy light-colored Fantian Pea Pebbles from Amazon and distribute them precisely around the base.

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The right lemon tree care in July will have a big impact on the flavor and juiciness of your harvest. These long, hot summer days encourage your lemon tree to produce rapid fruit growth and lush foliage, but they also stress the plant. Too little water, excessive heat, and inadequate nutrients are all risks at this time of year and can affect the quality of your citrus harvest.

Lemon trees are actively investing energy in developing fruit in July. Without appropriate and targeted midsummer lemon tree care, your fruits might stay small, have less flavor, or even drop early. With the right nurturing, though, your tree will remain lush, develop large, flavorful fruits, and even put out new green growth.

The good news is that looking after lemon trees in July doesn’t have to be dramatic or complicated. A few simple and easy tasks will keep your tree healthy through the hottest and potentially most stressful time of the year. These chores also ensure you will enjoy the juiciest harvest.

1. Water Deeply and Consistently

July heat increases water needs for most plants, including lemon trees. There's no telling how long the current heatwave will last for, which means you might even experience drought conditions during July, making watering lemon trees well a critical step. Even established trees can be stressed by dry summer conditions, and too little water can lead to early fruit drop. Consistency is also important as letting the soil totally dry out before watering can cause split skin on fruits.

The best way to water your lemon tree in July is with regular, deep soaking. Instead of watering lightly daily, water deeply every few days or once a week, depending on weather conditions and rainfall. The exception is for potted plants, which often need daily, or even twice daily, watering, as the soil dries out very quickly. Young trees, both in the ground and in containers, also need extra water as their root systems aren't yet big enough to source enough moisture.

To give a lemon tree a good soaking, use a hose at the base of the tree and let it run for up to 20 minutes. For a tree in a container, water until it begins running out of the drainage hole at the planter base. If you’re ever unsure about whether or not this essential part of July lemon tree care is necessary, stick your finger in the soil: if it’s dry up to your second knuckle, it’s time to water.

2. Fertilize to Support Fruit Development

July is an active growing period, and your trees are growing new foliage as well as developing fruits. All this growth requires a steady supply of nutrients, making fertilizing lemon trees another essential July gardening job. Nitrogen is a must for new leaves, while potassium and micronutrients support overall health and large, tasty fruits. Skipping this task can lead to yellowing leaves, stunted fruit, and poor-quality fruit.

You can make this task easy by looking for a citrus-specific fertilizer such as this from Amazon. This takes the guesswork out of choosing an appropriate nutrient balance. Overfeeding can be as bad as underfeeding, so follow the product instructions and don’t give more than is recommended, especially if you're growing your lemon tree in a container. Always water thoroughly after applying a fertilizer.

If your weather conditions are severely hot and dry, delay fertilizing, as feeding a tree during these conditions can stress it even more. Focus on water only during these times and feed once the conditions normalize. If you feel your lemon tree needs a boost, then a slow-release granular fertilizer or, even gentler, refreshing the soil nutrients with a mulch, are better options for a heat-stressed tree.

3. Prune Lightly But Strategically

Midsummer is not a time for heavy pruning, but light pruning of suckers and water sprouts is essential for directing the tree’s energy into fruit production. Suckers are new shoots that grow straight up from the ground near the trunk, while water sprouts are those that grow upwards from branches. Both take energy away from the fruits and also reduce airflow around leaves and branches, so add your lemon tree to the list of plants to prune in July.

This task is easy with the right tool. Use sharp, clean pruning shears such as these from Amazon to snip each of these little sprouts at its base. Check for new growth every couple of weeks and prune off whatever you find. You can also remove any dead or damaged growth in July. Generally, avoid pruning heavily in the canopy, as the fruits need shade from the foliage.

4. Watch Out For Summer Pests

Hot summer weather encourages many pests to accumulate, especially in trees stressed by high temperatures or dry conditions. Catching pest infestations early makes them much easier to manage, so when it comes to what to do with lemon trees in July, checking regularly is a must. Inspect new leaves, the undersides of leaves, fruits, stems, and joints in branches. Common lemon tree pests include aphids, scale, spider mites, and citrus leaf miners.

You'll often see the signs of pests before you see the pesky critters themselves. Typical warning signs include:

• A sticky residue called honeydew, which can attract ants
• Fine webbing
• Tiny bumps on stems
• Black sooty mold
• Curled leaves with silvery trails

If you catch them early enough, pests can often be managed with a strong blast of water from the hose to knock them off. On a smaller tree, scale insects can simply be wiped off. If necessary, move to neem oil such as this from Amazon, or insecticidal soap like this from Amazon, or remove heavily infested branches and leaves. If you continue to have issues, contact your local extension office for guidance.

5. Support Heavy Fruit and Harvest When Ready

Exactly when your lemons ripen and become ready to harvest depends on your growing zone and seasonal weather. In warmer areas, your fruits might be ready to pick in July. In other areas, the fruits are probably getting heavy and might need some support to prevent broken branches.

If some branches look particularly heavy or are bending, use a sturdy post fixed in the ground or a soft tie attached to a stronger branch to provide support. You can also remove any damaged or split fruit.

Determine readiness for harvesting lemons by guidelines for your growing area, past experience, and current signs. Ripe lemons have full color, are slightly soft to the touch, and feel heavy for their size. Harvest lemons by snipping them off rather than pulling to avoid damaging the branch.

If you're thinking of buying another lemon tree, now's a really smart time to invest. Immature trees that won't bear fruit for another year or two are often on sale at this time of the year, as nurseries don't want to store them over the winter. The best deals we found are at Fast Growing Trees:

Lemon tree care in July is all about helping it cope with the stresses of heat and drought while also supporting developing fruit. Watering deeply, feeding appropriately, trimming lightly, supporting fruit and controlling pests will all help keep your tree healthy, productive, and provide you with tasty, fully developed fruit. These steps aren’t difficult and don’t take a lot of time, but they generate big rewards.

Tomatoes ‘sweat’, in their own way. On a hot, muggy afternoon the plant is pushing water out through its leaves nonstop, and down where the foliage sits jammed against damp soil with nothing stirring, that moisture has nowhere to go. So it hangs around. Warm, dead-still air against a wet leaf – that's the setup fungal spores are hoping for, and usually where things go wrong.

The fix takes less work than it sounds. A good chunk of growing tomatoes well through a humid summer comes down to airflow, and airflow comes down to which leaves stay on the plant. Strip off the right few and the whole thing breathes easier. Add one cheap trick down at the soil line and a lot of the disease pressure that wrecks a crop never really gets going.

Why the Bottom of the Plant Is Key

A lot of tomato disease starts low and climbs. Those bottom leaves sit right over the dirt, and the dirt is where fungal spores ride out the winter. Then the rain comes, or the hose, and every drop hitting the ground flicks a little back up onto the nearest leaf. Early blight (Alternaria solani) and Septoria leaf spot (Septoria lycopersici) both get around exactly like this – a few spots low down, some yellowing, then up the plant. Clear off that bottom tier and the splash lands on nothing.

Airflow is the other half. Let a tomato bush out on its own and it becomes this dense, shut-in tangle, the inside of it staying damp hours after the outer leaves have gone dry. Spores are fine with that. Thin it out, get some air moving through the middle, and the leaves dry off quicker once the rain or the dew lifts – and a dry leaf is just a lot harder for anything to get into. None of this means pruning your tomato plant bare, though – it just needs room to breathe.

The 3 Leaves to Snip

Not every leaf is earning its keep. Three kinds in particular cause more trouble than they're worth once the humidity sets in, and they're the ones to go after first. A clean cut close to the stem does it, and a pair of bypass pruning snips from Amazon makes flush cuts easy and spares the stem.

1. The Lowest Leaves

Start low and work your way up. Anything in that bottom 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30cm) is either touching the soil or hanging just over it – first to catch whatever splashes off the ground. And those are old leaves anyway, shaded out, not pulling their weight, stuck in the worst possible spot on the plant. Snip them flush to the main stem. Once the plant is established and setting fruit, a bare lower stretch of stem does it no harm.

2. Yellowing or Spotted Leaves

Any tomato leaf going yellow or growing spots has more or less run its course – and if those spots turn out to be disease, it's now a launch pad for more. Don't wait for pruning day to deal with them. Remove them the moment you spot them. A yellow leaf down low is often the first tip-off that something fungal has moved in, and getting it gone fast is cleanup and early warning rolled into one.

3. Crowded Interior Growth

Deep in a big plant, leaves stack on leaves and almost none of them get real light or air. That congested inner growth is where humidity hangs around the longest. Thinning a few of those interior leaves, along with any small suckers crowding the center, cuts a channel for air to move straight through. You want a plant with daylight showing through it in gaps, not a solid green wall.

The Secret Skirt Trick

Here's the part many people don’t bother with. Once those lower leaves are gone, lay a skirt around the base of the plant – a ring of mulch or a fabric barrier over the bare soil. It seems too basic to count for much. What it actually does is drop a physical wall between the soil, where the spores live, and the leaves above, so when water hits the ground there's nothing left to splash back up.

Straw works for this, so does shredded bark, and even newspaper under compost will do. Grab a couple bags of shredded mulch from Home Depot and a row is covered without much fuss. Want something you're not redoing every season? A roll of landscape fabric from Walmart does the same job and lasts years. Either way there's a bonus – the cover slows evaporation, so the soil underneath stays damper and more even, roots getting a steady drink while the leaves stay clear of the muck. There's one catch, though. Keep the mulch an inch or two (2 to 5cm) off the stem. Bank it right against the stem and it traps enough moisture to start rot.

The plant looks like it's doing everything right. Big yellow flowers cover it, new ones opening every morning, the whole thing sprawling and green. Then the little fruits behind some of those flowers start to swell, reach maybe an inch or two (2 to 5cm), and go soft, yellowing at the tip before they drop. It leaves nothing to harvest – just a run of false starts.

That collapse almost always traces back to one thing – pollination that didn't take. The basics of how to grow zucchini get a plant to the flowering stage without much trouble, but flowers on their own don't make fruit. Pollen has to move from the male blooms to the female ones, and in a hot summer that hand-off often just doesn't happen. The good part is that it's an easy gap to close by hand.

Why the Baby Fruits Just Quit

A female zucchini flower comes with a tiny fruit already attached, sitting right behind the petals before it has even opened. That little fruit is basically on standby. If enough pollen reaches the flower while it's open, the fruit gets the signal to keep growing. If it doesn't, the plant cuts its losses – the fruit yellows, softens, and drops, since there's no sense pouring energy into something that won't hold seed.

Heat is where it usually goes wrong. Each zucchini flower gives you one morning, maybe, and then it closes for good – so the window was tight even before the weather got involved. Now push things past 90F (32C). The pollen starts to give out, losing the viability it needs to do anything, and the bees that would've been working the patch mostly clear off until the heat lets up. Fewer visits, weaker pollen, and a lot of those morning flowers close again having never really been pollinated.

Telling the Male Flowers From the Female

It's easy to see the difference between male and female squash blossoms, once you know the tell. Look at the stem right behind the flower. A male flower sits on a plain, slim stalk – nothing behind the petals but stem. A female flower has what looks like a miniature zucchini bulging at its base, right where the bloom meets the vine. That bulge is the unfertilized fruit, and it's the whole giveaway.

There's a timing quirk worth knowing, too. For the first week or two, a young plant will often put out male flowers and nothing else, no females anywhere, and every summer this sends somebody into a mild panic. Nothing's wrong. The males just show up first, getting the pollen ready for whenever the females decide to open. Once both are opening on the same morning, you're in business – that's when hand pollination actually does something.

Hand Pollinating, Step by Step

Hand pollinating squash and zucchini requires no special gear – just a minute of your time, and maybe a soft artist's brush from Amazon if you want it tidy. Morning is the time, before the heat climbs, while the flowers are actually open and the pollen hasn't dried out.

1. Start with a male flower that's wide open, the anther in the middle loaded up with pollen. Snap it off the plant, stem and all.
2. Now strip it down – pull the petals back and off, until what's left is basically a pollen-tipped wand on a stem.
3. Find a female that's open (baby fruit behind the petals, remember) and touch that anther to the middle of the flower, brushing it lightly over every side of the stigma. A couple seconds does it, with no need to be precious about it.
4. Move on. One male flower usually carries enough pollen for two or three females, so work down the row while you're out there.

No males open that morning? A soft brush or a cotton swab covers the same ground – swipe it around inside a male flower, then carry that pollen over to whatever females are open. Cotton swabs from Walmart are cheap enough to use once and toss.

Getting the Bees to Do It for You

Hand pollination is a stopgap, useful but not something anyone wants to do forever. Better to get the bees doing the work again. Flowers blooming near the zucchini pull double duty here – a bee already out working the yard for nectar will swing through the squash blossoms on its rounds. And it's the mix that matters, not the count. Different bloom shapes, different colors, and you pull in a wider range of insects than any single kind manages on its own.

Cut back on the broad-spectrum insecticides, too, or just skip spraying entirely while flowers are open and bees are on them – plenty of those products wipe out pollinators right alongside whatever pest you were chasing. Set out a shallow dish of water with a couple stones poking up for landing spots. Bees need to drink, and one that drinks in your garden tends to stay in it. None of this amounts to much alone. Together, it's the difference between attracting bees for steady fruit and standing out there every morning playing bee yourself.

Keeping It from Happening Again

When heat is the real problem with your zucchini, the fix is shielding the plants through the worst of it. In a stretch of extreme temperatures, a bit of afternoon shade takes the edge off enough to keep pollen viable and bees active into the morning. A length of shade cloth from Home Depot rigged over the bed during a heat wave handles that without much effort, and it comes right back off once the weather breaks.

Timing helps as well. A deep watering early in the day keeps plants from stacking drought stress on top of heat stress, and a plant that isn't struggling holds onto more of its flowers. Beyond that, watch the forecast – when a run of 95F (35C) days is coming, that's the week to be out there in the morning with a brush, instead of hoping the bees push through weather they'd usually sit out.

July is when backyard tomatoes either take off or quietly fall apart. The plants are big by now, heavy with green fruit and pushing hard through the hottest stretch of the year – which is right when small problems snowball into season-enders. Blossom end rot sets in, skins split, and a fungal spot creeps up the lower leaves before anyone notices. Most of that traces back to a few tasks that get skipped in the heat, not to bad luck.

The good news is that ten minutes of attention now pays off for weeks. Anyone already comfortable with growing tomatoes knows the vines are forgiving up to a point, and midsummer is where that forgiveness runs thin. A little pruning, steady water, a nutrient nudge at the right moment – these are the moves that keep fruit setting through August instead of stalling out in a tangle of leggy growth and cracked skins. None of it takes special skill. It just takes doing it before the plant forces the issue.

What Your Tomatoes Need in July

The plants aren't asking for much in July, but the little they need, they need on time. Skipping a step doesn't show up right away – it shows up three weeks later as cracked fruit or a vine half-taken by blight. Ten minutes now buys a lot of tomatoes later, and better-tasting ones at that.

1. Low-Leaf Haircut for Airflow and Blight Prevention

When pruning tomatoes, start at the bottom. Those lower leaves touching the soil, or hovering just above it, are the first place blight and early leaf spot get a foothold – rain splashes soil-borne spores up onto them, and from there the trouble climbs. Stripping the bottom 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30cm) of foliage off each plant opens up airflow right where things sit stagnant and humid. It looks a little brutal the first time. The plant won't miss them.

Those low leaves aren't doing much photosynthesizing anyway, shaded out by everything above. Pulling them lets air move through the base and dries the zone out faster after a storm, which is half the battle with fungal trouble. Do it on a dry morning so the wounds seal before evening humidity settles back in. A clean cut or a clean snap, either works – just don't leave torn stubs that invite rot.

2. Consistency With Deep Watering

Tomatoes hate surprises when it comes to water. Deep, consistent soaking is what heads off blossom end rot and split tomatoes both, and the two problems actually share a cause – erratic moisture. When a plant goes bone dry and then gets flooded, the fruit swells faster than the skin can stretch, and it cracks. Calcium uptake stalls during the dry stretches too, which is what triggers that sunken dark patch on the bottom of the tomato.

The fix is boring, but it works. Water tomatoes deeply and less often, right at the base. A couple of long soakings a week beats a daily sprinkle that only wets the top inch (2.5cm). A drip line or soaker hose from Amazon takes the guesswork out of it, running slow and low so moisture sinks down to where the roots are. Mulch over the top of that and the ground holds even between waterings. That last part is honestly reason enough to mulch.

3. Midsummer Sucker Pruning

Tomato suckers are the little shoots that pop out in the crotch between the main stem and a branch. Left alone, especially on indeterminate types, they grow into whole secondary stems that eat energy the plant could be putting into fruit. Midsummer is prime time to stay on top of them, since the vines are growing fast and throwing new suckers weekly. Pinch them out while they're small – thumb and forefinger, no tools needed.

There's a limit to this, though. Determinate tomatoes set most of their crop at once and shouldn't be sucker-pruned much at all, since every growing tip counts toward the harvest. On indeterminate tomatoes, a light hand beats a heavy one in the heat. Strip too much foliage and you expose fruit to sunscald, those pale leathery patches that show up on shoulders baking in full sun. Take the obvious suckers, leave enough canopy to shade what's ripening.

4. Mid-Season Potassium Boost

By July, the early fertilizer is mostly used up and the plant is heading into its heaviest fruiting stretch. This is where a potassium boost earns its keep – potassium drives fruit development and flavor, and a mid-season side dressing keeps production from tapering off early. Skip fertilizing tomatoes with the high-nitrogen stuff now. Nitrogen at this stage just pushes leafy growth at the expense of the tomatoes already forming.

Side dressing is simple. Scatter a low-nitrogen, higher-potassium feed in a ring a few inches (7 to 8cm) out from the stem, scratch it into the soil surface, then water it in. Something along the lines of a tomato-specific granular fertilizer from Amazon does the job without much fuss. The plant picks it up over the following weeks, right as the fruit load peaks. Do it once now and most gardens won't need another round before the season winds down.

5. Reinforcing the Rigging

All that fruit has weight, and July is when supports start giving out. A cage that held fine in June leans under a fully loaded plant, and once a stem kinks or snaps, that whole branch of developing tomatoes is finished. Walk the row and look for strain. Maybe a stake has worked loose, or a tie is starting to bite into a thickening stem. Better to catch it before a storm rolls through and lays everything flat.

Loosen any ties that are cutting in and re-secure with something soft. Strips of old T-shirt work, or these adjustable plant ties from Amazon that don't dig into the stem as it thickens. Add a stake where a plant is outgrowing its cage, and tie in the heavy trusses so they're not hanging off a single joint. Ten minutes of reinforcement now saves a snapped main stem later, and there's no coming back from that one.

6. Snapping Off Key Growing Tips

This one's aimed at the tail end of the run, but it's worth knowing about now. Toward the close of tomato season – usually mid to late summer, depending on climate – snapping off the growing tips of indeterminate plants tells them to quit making new growth and ripen what's already there. Any flower cluster that opens past a certain point won't have time to mature anyway, so the plant does better funneling that energy into the fruit already hanging.

It's called topping, and it can be the difference between a pile of green tomatoes at first frost and a properly ripe haul. Cut or pinch the top few inches (7 to 8 cm) off each main stem, just above the highest cluster worth keeping. Everything gets redirected downward. In shorter-season areas it's close to essential; in long, warm climates there's less urgency, though it still helps concentrate flavor late in the year. Miss July, and tomatoes coast. Get it right, and they produce like they’ve got something to prove.

The idea is appealing: you let your plants “make friends” in the garden by planting different plant species close to each other so that they can offer identifiable benefits to one another. Often, the goal is to keep insect pests at bay. Sometimes one plant benefits; sometimes the benefit is mutual. And sometimes – all too often – the “pairing” doesn’t work well at all and pests overrun the protected plant.

It’s frustrating when companion planting doesn’t live up to its hype. But what’s a gardener to do? There’s a smarter strategy we’re excited about that scientists suggest will do a much more efficient job of keeping those insect pests from your favorite plants. We call it scent clustering, and we’re here to tell you about it.

Say Hello to Scent Clustering

In traditional companion planting, gardeners are urged to match a pest-repelling plant with a plant to be protected – and do this repeatedly throughout the garden. If you're new to the concept, then it's worth picking up a copy of The Old Farmer's Almanac Vegetable Gardener’s Handbook from Amazon.

The idea is to have the aromatic plants that pests don’t like scattered individually throughout the garden, close to the plants to be protected. Think of them as dancing, two by two, around the ballroom of the garden.

Scent clustering abandons this “one-on-one/two-by-two” approach. Instead, we can create a protective “wall” against insect pests by grouping tough, aromatic plants together. Experts suggest that this makes a more effective barrier against insect pests than interspersing them throughout the garden.

Why Scent Clustering Deters More Pests

Have you ever noticed that the corner of the garden with two or three fragrant plants has a stronger, more compelling scent than an area with only one? In my garden in France, I have a rose bed filled with only fragrant cultivars, and recently added a jasmine vine on the fence behind it. The combined scent seems three times as powerful as the roses alone.

Grouping aromatic plants also amplified the effect of the scent – and it can be much more effective at deterring pests. Clustering strongly scented plants together may create a stronger "chemical landscape" that can help mask crop scents or confuse pests. Part of this is attributable to VOC communication.

As highlighted in this scientific study, plants release Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) in response to insect attacks. This VOC release is a way that plants communicate with neighboring plants. When insect-damaged plants communicate their situation, the undamaged plants nearby increase their own defenses – like aromatics – as if they were being attacked themselves.

Best Plants for Scent Clustering

Fragrant plants are the Amazons of the garden. They add beauty and joy but also bring the muscle to fight off insect pests. In addition to keeping pests away with their scents, aromatic herbs and flowers attract beneficial insects. Fragrant and aromatic plants release essential oils with volatile organic compounds. The VOCs communicate with other plants but also confuse insects, making it hard for them to find food.

Some plants have scents that bugs really cannot stand. These aromatic plants include: garlic, green onions, parsley, orange nasturtiums, chives, lavender, rosemary, basil, marigolds, and alliums. Others that make the list as effective for scent clustering are wormwood, scented geranium, santolina, and tansy. Creating a “wall” of the strongest aromatic pest confusers like yarrow, anise hyssop, onions, garlic, and mints in gardens helps keep pests away.

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Where to Position Scent Clusters in the Landscape

Generally, scent clusters of aromatics work best as perimeter planting. If you group them too near the vegetable garden, they can interfere with your crops' growth. Instead, create a pest-repellent hedge or aromatics around orchards and vegetable patches.

It also works well to plant pungent aromatic herbs near pathways in the garden. Their effectiveness increases when they spill over onto paving. The warming paving warms the foliage too, releasing the fragrant plant oils.

Succession Planting to Keep Scent Clusters Going

Now that you’ve identified your strongest aromatics and installed them in mixed clusters in the garden, the last thing you want is to have that “wall” crumble as the shortest-lived plants die back. As you lose plants, the scent diminishes, and the effect on insect pests also goes down.

The key to keeping the scent clusters going is succession planting. You may have already started with succession planting in the vegetable garden. Basically, this means you don’t just sow and forget. Instead, you sow rounds of seeds one after the other, to keep new crops coming in all summer long. This works especially well for crops like lettuce that grow fast and can get eaten fast. Instead of ending up with hundreds of heads of lettuce at once, you end up with a smaller amount that ripen sequentially.

You can use succession planting for your aromatic herbs as well. Whichever ones you decide to plant, just keep sowing the seeds every week or every other week to keep the herbs coming.

Plenty of lettuce quits the moment summer heat settles in, bolting tall and turning bitter before the salad season really gets going. But a few varieties were bred to hold their nerve, and those keep cutting well past the bolt.

Come July, the lettuce patch tends to be the first corner of the garden to fall apart. Leaves that were sweet and crisp back in May go bitter, the plants shoot up tall, and a flower stalk pushes from the center. Heat is the trigger. That whole stretching-and-flowering routine is bolting, and once it starts there's no going back.

Not every lettuce bolts that fast, though. The different lettuce types vary a lot in how much warmth they'll take before they turn, and a handful were bred specifically for it. Pick one of those, hand it afternoon shade and steady water, and you can keep cutting salads while the spring crop bolts and dies back.

When Heat Turns Lettuce Bitter

Lettuce is wired for cool weather. Once daytime temperatures stay in the 80s (around 27-32C), the plant takes it as a cue to reproduce, so it throws up a thick central stalk headed for flower. That's the bolt. Long summer days nudge it along too, which is why the closer you get to midsummer, the faster a susceptible variety goes.

As the plant stresses, the sap in the leaves goes milky and the flavor slides from crisp to flat-out bitter — sometimes before any stalk even shows. Germination drops off in the warmth as well, with seed often failing to sprout once the soil creeps past about 80F (27C), so a midsummer sowing may not come up at all. None of which is the end of it. It mostly comes down to which variety goes in the ground, plus a break from the afternoon sun.

6 Lettuce Varieties That Take the Heat

These are the ones that keep producing when the thermometer climbs. Most are loose-leaf or Batavian lettuce types, which run to seed slower than tight heading lettuce, and all turn up through the usual sellers.

1. Jericho

Bred in the Israeli desert, Jericho lettuce (Lactuca sativa var. longifolia) was made for exactly this problem. A tall green romaine, it stays sweet and crisp at temperatures that turn most romaines sour, and it's slow to send up a stalk even with the heat on.

Keep the moisture steady and it forms big upright heads. Take the whole thing or pull leaves a few at a time. Super Jericho seeds from the Home Depot make it easy to get.

2. Nevada

For raw durability, not much beats Nevada. A Batavian type — summer crisp on some labels — it's still Lactuca sativa var. capitata, with thick glossy leaves gathered into a loose head. It holds up to both heat and a sudden cold snap, and stays mild long after softer types would have soured. It regrows after a cut, too, so one planting goes a long way. You can find Nevada lettuce seeds at Walmart.

3. Buttercrunch

Most butterheads collapse in the heat. Buttercrunch is the exception that's kept it on seed racks for decades — a butterhead itself, Lactuca sativa var. capitata. An All-America Selections winner, it keeps that tender, buttery rosette later into warm weather than its relatives and resists bolting longer than most. It wants steady water and a bit of afternoon shade once things warm up. You'll find it nearly everywhere, including plenty of buttercrunch seed from Park Seed.

4. Black-Seeded Simpson

Black-Seeded Simpson (Lactuca sativa var. crispa) ranks among the fastest, most forgiving lettuces you can sow. The light, frilly leaves are ready in roughly 45 days, which lets you slip a harvest in ahead of peak heat and keep resowing through the season. It isn't the most bolt-proof name here, but the speed covers for that. You're eating it before it gets the chance to turn. Burpee has black-seeded Simpson seeds for a good price.

5. Red Sails

Color is what sets Red Sails apart, though the staying power is the bigger draw. The bronze-red ruffled leaves — another looseleaf, Lactuca sativa var. crispa — are slow to bolt and slow to sour, and that red pigment seems to screen it from strong sun. It's an All-America Selections pick too, a cut-and-come-again grower. Strip the outer leaves and it keeps producing for weeks instead of finishing at once. You can grab a packet of Red Sails seeds off Amazon.

6. Slobolt

The name does the explaining. Slobolt (Lactuca sativa var. crispa) was bred to resist bolting, and it holds for weeks after other loose-leaf types have shot up and gone bitter. The leaves come light green and soft, mild enough to eat young and cut again as they regrow. It sometimes turns up on store shelves less often than the others, so finding Slobolt lettuce seeds rom the Thresh Seed Co. store on Amazon is more reliable.

Expert Tips

Lettuce will hang on longer in summer if you take a little pressure off it.

• A bit of afternoon shade makes a big difference, especially once temperatures stay high.
• Keep the soil from drying out completely—lettuce hates that stop-and-start stress—and throw down some mulch if you’ve got it.
• Cut their leaves early in the morning while they’re still cool. They taste better, and the plant doesn’t seem to mind the harvest much.

I know what you're thinking. Vegetables? In July? Have I finally succumbed to the heat? Please, hear me out.

By July, many gardeners are convinced they've missed their window to sow vegetables for the year. After all, with temperatures soaring across much of the US, it's easy to assume the planting season is winding down.

But don't retire your trowel just yet, as July can actually be an excellent time to sow a surprising number of vegetables. Warm soil encourages rapid germination, and many heat-loving crops positively relish midsummer conditions? And better still, several can be harvested within just a few weeks.

A winning formula, as I'm sure we can all agree.

Plant These 7 Easy Heat-Hardy Vegetables in July

Of course, exactly what you can grow will depend on your local climate and USDA hardiness zone. Gardeners in hotter regions may need to provide extra irrigation or afternoon shade, while those in cooler northern states can often continue sowing well into late summer.

That caveat in place, then, these seven vegetables are among the most reliable choices for July planting across much of the US. Ready, set, sow!

1. Bush beans

Say it with me, people: bush beans. Bush beans are honestly one of the easiest vegetables to sow in midsummer. They love warm soil, germinate quickly, and many varieties will begin producing tender pods in as little as 50 to 60 days.

July is also ideal for succession sowing, allowing gardeners to stagger harvests and enjoy fresh beans right through to fall. Sow seeds directly where they are to grow and keep the soil consistently moist while seedlings establish.

Try something like these Gold Mine Bush Bean Seeds from Burpee if you want very high yields of crisp, ultra-sweet wax beans (and, quite frankly, who doesn't?).

2. Summer squash

If you're looking for quick results, summer squash is hard to beat. Zucchini and yellow squash thrive in hot weather and can start producing fruits in as little as six weeks.

Given enough sun, water, and space, these famously prolific plants often produce more than enough for even the most enthusiastic gardeners.

Just remember that regular harvesting is essential (some stricter gardeners may even call it a non-negotiable, but you are your own boss in my world), as it will encourage plants to continue cropping throughout the season.

3. Cucumbers

Cucumbers adore summer heat. When planted in July, they often grow rapidly thanks to warm soil temperatures and long daylight hours.

Direct sow seeds in a sunny spot and provide a trellis if possible, as vertical growing improves airflow and can help reduce disease issues.

Remember: consistent watering is essential, especially during hot spells, as drought stress can lead to bitter fruits (not ideal if you want a tasty sandwich or salad).

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4. Swiss chard

Many leafy greens struggle in summer heat, but Swiss chard (the standout star of my own scrappy little vegetable plot) is a notable exception.

This colorful crop is considerably more heat tolerant than lettuce and can continue producing nutritious leaves well into the fall. Just take care to harvest outer leaves regularly and plants will keep producing fresh growth for months.

In warmer regions, some gardeners are even able to harvest Swiss chard through winter. Go for Bright Lights Swiss Chard Seeds from Burpee, and get ready to eat your very own homegrown rainbow.

5. Okra

For gardeners in the South, July and okra go hand in hand. This heat-loving vegetable thrives when temperatures climb and often performs best during the hottest weeks of summer (happily, it tastes amazing all year round).

Even gardeners outside traditional okra-growing regions are increasingly discovering its merits as summers become warmer. Sow something like these Clemson Spineless Okra Seeds from Burpee in full sun and harvest pods while they are still young and tender for the best flavor and texture.

And when you cook up a storm with them, be sure to invite me over for dinner. I'm a fiend for okra.

6. Black-Eyed Peas

Don't let the name fool you – southern peas, aka black-eyed peas – are some of the toughest vegetables you can sow in the heat of summer. In fact, they often perform better in July than they do in cooler weather, making them an ideal choice for gardeners in warmer parts of the US.

Yes, you guessed it; these drought-tolerant legumes germinate quickly in warm soil and typically begin producing pods within 60 to 70 days. As an added bonus, they also help improve soil health by fixing nitrogen, benefiting the crops you plant after them.

Give them a sunny spot, water while they're getting established, and they'll happily take the summer heat in their stride.

7. Beets

In cooler and northern regions, July is an excellent time to sow beets for a fall harvest. Warm soil encourages speedy germination, while cooler temperatures later in the season help roots develop excellent flavour.

Both the roots and leafy tops of these nifty little veggies are edible, making beets a particularly great crop for small-space gardens. Go hard or go home when you grow yours (and by grow hard, I mean plant something like these Detroit Supreme Beet Seeds from Burpee). You won't regret it.

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So there we have it, folks! If you thought July meant the end of vegetable sowing season, think again.

Honestly, with the right crop choices, you could still be harvesting homegrown produce within weeks – and setting yourself up for a productive late-summer and fall garden.

Roll on the homegrown goodies, I say!

The prospect of sweet cherries is tantalizingly close as midsummer arrives. Cherry season usually peaks around this time, although the exact timing depends on your specific location, local weather conditions, and the type of cherry you are growing. If you’re cultivating sweet cherries like 'Bing', 'Rainier' or 'Stella' then a few timely tasks are going to influence the size, sweetness and bulk of your crop. Accomplishing these chores will have a direct impact on how sweet, juicy, and beautifully bird-free your harvest of summer cherries will be.

Fortunately, the work required for cherry tree care in July won’t break your back nor dampen your summer mood. These tasks are simple, fast, and intensely rewarding, as the payoff will be the sweetest, plumpest, and heaviest harvest of summer cherries you’ve ever had. But don’t put off these tasks: they are essential to protect and maximize the sugar and moisture content of your developing fruit.

You don’t want your precious fruits to fall foul of unexpected heat waves or sudden summer downpours. By stepping in with some simple deeds right now, you aren't just protecting this year’s bounty, either. You are also safeguarding the reserves your tree needs to return even stronger next season. So, here’s how to make the most of your July cherries and nourish your tree for future fruit.

Best Cherry Care in July

Taking time for cherry care in July is a win-win for your home orchard. Whether you live in a mild coastal zone or a blazing interior valley, cherry trees are under intense pressure to support heavy fruit loads while fending off seasonal pest surges. These basic care strategies prevent fruit splitting, premature dropping, and bird raids, ensuring your harvest lasts longer and tastes vastly superior across USDA zones 4-9.

These protective measures for cherries in early summer don’t just protect your harvests, they also replenish the tree. July is a great time to boost soil moisture, light penetration, and nutrient availability, to help your tree finish fruiting without depleting energy reserves. It also helps your tree transition into setting fruit buds for next year, protecting against biennial bearing, and keeping trees vigorous and productive for decades.

Before diving into these tasks, ensure your cutting tools are sharp, clean, and sterilized to prevent the introduction of systemic disease. Before adding anything else to the soil around your tree, check moisture levels in the ground using a soil diagnostic tool. The XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon can help you to gauge soil moisture deep within the root zone before you water or add any supplements.

1. Deep, Consistent Watering

Everyone knows that cherry trees need water to grow, thrive, and produce juicy fruit. But how much and how often depends on the growth stage and the weather. Sweet cherries are preparing to fruit and trees need deep, consistent watering. Temperatures are rising as we get to July. It’s easy to overcompensate by dramatically increasing the amount of water you give the tree, or watering twice a day. But this is neither ideal for the tree nor good for your summer cherry harvest. Instead, think deep, consistent watering to stop fruit from splitting.

Deep watering a cherry tree encourages strength and resilience, by encouraging the tree’s roots to dive deeper into the soil. You can deep water with a garden hose or a soaker hose, just as well as with a complex sprinkler system. Focus water around the drip line, not near the trunk (since this can cause disease). Go for a 50ft option such as the RainPoint 50Ft Flat Soaker Hose from Amazon. Try to set up a regular irrigation schedule and stick to it. Overwatering or inconsistent watering can cause cherries to split. Bear in mind that cherry trees in containers will dry out more quickly.

Aim for one deep soaking per week that penetrates 12-18 inches (30-45cm) into the ground, rather than shallow daily sprinkles. For container-grown varieties, check pots daily, as they can dry out entirely in a single hot afternoon, arresting fruit development and turning skin bitter. Use Pro-Mix Premium Moisture Potting Soil Mix from Walmart to help regulate water retention and enhance nutrient uptake.

2. Apply a Thick Mulch

Cherry trees grow best in soil that neither gets waterlogged nor dries out for long periods. Organizing your irrigation is an important step toward making this happen for your tree, but there’s another easy way to lock moisture into the soil beneath the tree and keep that soil cool, and that’s mulching. You may have mulched your trees in early spring, but by July we need to add more. Garden compost works well for cherry trees, but any well-rotted organic matter will do just fine. Try a sprinkling of an organic compost like Charlie's Compost from Amazon to help microbial life.

A properly applied midsummer mulch layer functions as a protective shield, reducing surface evaporation by up to 70%. When applying your organic matter, layer it 3-4 inches (8-10cm) thick, extending all the way out to the tree’s drip line where the active feeder roots reside. Don’t let the mulch touch the bark, though. Keep a clear 6-inch (15cm) ring around the base of the trunk. Burying the root flare traps moisture directly against the wood, inviting collar rot, fungal cankers, and boring insects. For an extra boost to your soil, consider mixing fine wood chips with rich leaf mold to encourage beneficial mycorrhizal networks that enhance nutrient uptake.

3. Deploy Bird Netting

We love to watch garden birds on our backyard feeders, but it’s not so pleasant to watch them chowing down on our ripening cherries. But face it, birds love to eat cherries, so a polite sign is not going to help. The trick is to cover your tree with bird netting before you think you need to (in other words, before the fruit turns red). If your tree is small enough, cover the whole structure. Otherwise, cover individual branches. Keep the netting above the fruits, stretch it taut, and fasten it securely.

For whole trees, try a zip-bag such as Homada Fruit Tree Netting Cover with Drawstring from Amazon for a tangle-resistant mesh that won’t harm wildlife. For targeted cluster protection, use Agfabric Fruit Protection Bags from Home Depot. These are great for wrapping individual high-yielding branches or protecting patio cherry tree crops with ease. For container trees, consider a fruit cage or move the trees into the greenhouse until fruiting is done.

When installing protective netting, pull the netting tight over a framework (like PVC pipes or bamboo stakes) to keep the mesh suspended away from the outermost branches. If the netting rests against the fruit, clever birds will sit on top of the mesh and peck through the holes. If it is taut like a trampoline, birds will fly away safely without getting caught. Look for a mesh size of 20mm or less.

4. Tackle Aphids and Cherry Blackflies

Bugs are obviously annoying, especially when they are crawling on our favorite plants and trees. But biodiversity is important, so don’t make it your goal to take out every cherry blackfly or cherry aphid you spot. Cherry blackfly (Myzus cerasi) is an aphid that sucks sap from the foliage. This insect overwinters on the tree as eggs, and the aphids hatch in summer. Check the undersides of the leaves this month. If they are covered with shiny black aphids, you’ve identified the issue. You may also see leaves that are crumpled and curled. However, the aphids will leave the tree in summer, so if the damage is not severe, it might be better to leave them.

While a minor aphid infestation won't ruin your crop, severe leaf curling can compromise the tree's ability to photosynthesize, reducing the overall sweetness of this year’s fruit. If you must intervene, avoid harsh chemical insecticides that harm native pollinators. Instead, use a firm, targeted blast of water to dislodge colonies, or apply a gentle organic insecticide or insecticidal soap late in the evening. Arber Organic Bio-Insecticide Concentrate from Walmart is an exceptional planet-safe biological treatment that targets sap-suckers. Alternatively, import predator bugs. You can get a box of live ladybugs at garden stores and let them eat the aphids.

5. Trim Gently for Light and Airflow

It’s not a good idea to do a major cherry tree prune while cherries are ripening, for obvious reasons. But after your cherry harvest, it is a good idea to prune in July. It’s useful to prune sweet cherry trees every year to keep them compact. However, it's more important for tart cherries, since they bear their fruit on the ends of the branches. If branches get long and scraggly, they can break under the weight.

If you are gentle and reasonable with your cuts, July trimming can open up the inside of the canopy to airflow and sunlight. Take a good long look at the tree first to determine which branches are causing blockage problems and limit your trimming to these. Using clean shears or pruners, remove the least amount possible to open up the canopy. Use team favorites Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Amazon, or Corona Forged Steel DualCUT Bypass Pruners from Walmart, for razor-sharp cuts that make clean, fast-healing cuts on fruit wood.

Cherry trees are highly vulnerable to fungal diseases like silver leaf and bacterial canker when pruned during cold, wet seasons. So the warm, dry midsummer window is perfect, as the exposed wood heals rapidly. Good pruning basics include removing dead, damaged, or diseased wood, alongside aggressive water sprouts shooting up through the center of the canopy. Opening up the center allows sunlight to reach the lower interior branches, which is beneficial for future ripening and sugar conversion.

Shop Cherry Care Essentials

Caring for your backyard orchard doesn’t have to be a chore. These pro-approved care essentials will streamline tree maintenance and help you give timely checks and support in a way that is kind to trees during their most energetic phase of the year, while also great for your pocket.

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For me, the epitome of lush and healthy lavender tends to be tied up with picturesque scenes of rolling hillsides, coated with fragrant purple. Trouble is, the reality of growing lavender can often be a little less picturesque (and how many of us are lucky enough to have rolling hillsides to fill with plants?). Summer comes round, and we hope for those nascent spikes of baby blooms – and it can be genuinely gutting when our own lavender plants seem to be losing their mojo.

Visions of intoxicating evenings inhaling evocative fragrance seem mocking when the reality is a sad, woody clump that looks like it’s giving up on life. It can be tough when you feel like you're doing everything right by your lavender. You’ve given it a sun-baked spot and resisted the urge to drown it, yet the blooms are sparse and the fragrance is barely a whisper. Seeing this quintessential tough beauty underperform, it's tempting to just chalk it up to fate and assume you don't have the magic touch.

But don’t give up just yet. The thing is, your lavender doesn't want to be pampered with expensive, rich fertilizers. In fact, the secret to unlocking a flurry of billowing summer blooms is likely hiding in a box of school supplies, by which I mean ordinary chalk. Now, I know, the idea of crumbling kiddie’s chalk into your flower beds sounds like a playground prank. But chalk really can work wonders for your glum-looking lavender in early summer, and here’s how it works….

Why Does Lavender Crave Chalk?

To understand why a humble piece of chalk can transform your lavender’s fortunes, consider where this fragrant diva feels most at home. Most backyard soil across the US is naturally rich, slightly acidic, and dense, which is basically the exact opposite of what lavender wants. Native lavender enjoys clinging to the sun-baked soils of Provence or the rugged coastal cliffs of Greece, and thrives in lean, alkaline earth.

Now, back to that packet of chalk. Standard white chalk is pure calcium carbonate. Basically, when introduced to your garden bed, it acts like a soothing antacid, neutralizing the acidity and mimicking the chalky, high-soil pH environment that your lavender is secretly homesick for. This gateway to high summer is your best chance to take action. As we hit the peak of the sunny season, your lavender is working overtime to push out those iconic spikes. By introducing chalk to your soil now, the plant has both the energy and the incentive to grab that chalk with gusto.

Of course, it’s all a balancing act, and chalk isn’t going to be a magic fix if your soil is claggy or sulking in full shade. But allowing for your lavender type, growing zone, sunshine exposure, and soil drainage, checking in with your soil pH levels is vital. When the soil is too acidic, lavender is unable to absorb the nutrients around it. By lifting that barrier, you allow the plant’s roots to freely drink in what they need to produce robust stems, vivid purple spikes, and potent essential oils.

What Kind of Chalk is Best?

If you are eyeing a dusty box of chalk in your kid’s art box or play closet, let’s clear a few things up. Yes, you absolutely can use traditional white blackboard and sidewalk chalk, which is primarily composed of calcium carbonate (the ingredient found in agricultural lime). However, leave the neon, glittery, and washable outdoor chalks alone. Those modern varieties are loaded with artificial dyes, polymers, and binders. Stick to plain, old-school white chalk. You can grab Crayola Anti-Dust White Chalk (12 Count) from Amazon for a safe calcium carbonate top-up.

The way you use it is also important, though: this isn’t about burying chalk sticks randomly in your borders. It’s best to apply your chalk either as a fine powder or a chalk tea. And don’t expect overnight results: this is a slow-release treatment. For growers who don't fancy tucking into art supplies for that chalk fix, you can also lower acidity in your soil by using agricultural lime or finely crushed eggshells or even oyster shells. They all do the exact same job: boosting alkaline levels for your lavender. You can buy Espoma Organic Garden Lime from Walmart. This granular garden lime is formulated to dissolve quickly into the soil with larger lavender beds.

How to Tell Your Lavender Needs It

Signs of an underperforming lavender plant are most apparent during June and July. Midsummer is the ultimate stress test: the sun is super-hot, and your lavender is likely burning through massive amounts of energy trying to push out those signature summer spikes. If your soil pH is off, this is when things grind to a halt quite noticeably. Telltale signs can involve yellowing on the lower leaves, while the rest of the plant stays a dull gray. If lavender growth has stalled, or you pinch a leaf and barely detect any sort of fragrance, your plant is sending out a definitive SOS.

If any of this describes your lavender right now, don’t panic: this is just a time to stage an intervention. Where the soil has likely become too acidic, this is your cue to take action, However, the maxim is: don’t guess, always test. Don’t just throw chalk into the mix before testing your soil first. Use a good diagnostic tool like the Luster Leaf Rapitest Digital Soil pH Meter from Amazon to get a precise reading of your soil's current acidity levels. It can let you know in minutes whether your lavender is genuinely homesick for an alkaline boost. If it reads below a neutral 7.0, it’s fine to get that chalk working for you.

Are All Lavenders Chalk Addicts?

Before you start sprinkling your new secret weapon, just bear in mind that not all lavenders share the exact same level of chalk dependency. Our yards are usually home to the Big Three lavender types (English, French, or Spanish), each with their own personality. English lavender (L. angustifolia) is a real chalk lover. If you want sweet culinary blooms and potent oils, a high-soil (alkaline) pH is non-negotiable. French (L. dentata) and Spanish (L. stoechas) lavenders are slightly more laid back about a neutral soil, but they still heavily rely on the structural calcium that chalk provides to develop strong, heat-resistant stems.

Plant age matters, too. Tender, young transplants need a gentle hand so you don’t shock their developing roots. Woody, established old-timers will happily welcome chalk to rejuvenate their stale beds. Where you are growing lavender in containers, take note: several commercial potting soils still have peat moss, which is acidic, so check the bag. Container-grown lavenders are susceptible to shifting soil conditions. Potted lavenders in container gardens can run out of steam quickly and almost always require a regular pinch of chalk to keep their root zones sweet.

If you’re looking to extend your lavender family, Southern Living Phenomenal lavender, available from Nature Hills Nursery, handles US humidity and summer stress like a champ. It pairs beautifully with a sweet, chalky soil mix.

How to Add Chalk to Your Soil

Transforming a stick of blackboard chalk into garden gold is simple. But again, please don't just bury a whole stick in the earth. Instead, place a couple of sticks of plain white chalk per plant into a heavy-duty zip-top bag. Use a rolling pin or a pestle and mortar to smash them into a coarse powder. Take your freshly crushed powder and gently sprinkle it around the drip line of your lavender. Using a light hand tool, carefully scratch the chalk into the top two inches (2cm) of the soil, being careful not to dig too deep or disrupt the shallow root system. Dutch-crafted DeWit Forged Hand Cultivator from Amazon is a lovely hand tool for delicate soil scratching.

There is an alternative, especially if you have a container-grown lavender or a plant that is actively sulking in a heatwave: you can use chalk tea. Dissolve your crushed chalk powder directly into a watering can, giving it a vigorous stir, and then pour around the base of the plant. Whichever method you choose, give the area a light, gentle drink of water immediately. This helps to further dissolve the calcium carbonate particles and wash them down to the root zone, where they can get to work. However, when if you think you need faster results, you can use a bit of Jonathan Green Mag-I-Cal Plus for Acidic Soil from Lowe’s for a fast-acting calcium formula that gives instant root relief.

Best Summer Care for Your Lavender

Once your chalk has been watered in, you can step back. In the blazing heat of July and August, watering sobriety is advised. Overwatering in a heatwave can steam the roots and trigger root rot. Instead, if you do wish to give your lavender a little TLC in the weeks after adding your chalk, try a light midsummer haircut. Use sharp bypass pruners to snip away faded flower spikes, cutting to the first two sets of green leaves. Don’t cut into the woody part, which will stunt the plant. Trimming forces the lavender to channel its newly unlocked energy into fresh, fragrant growth.

While feeding is not generally necessary in summer, you can treat your lavender to a teeny splash of organic liquid seaweed or tomato feed. A liquid tonic like Neptune's Harvest Seaweed Fertilizer from Walmart can help to deliver a gentle, potassium-rich multivitamin hit that intensifies flower color. Finally, if you have organic wood mulch packed around your lavender, replace it with a clean ring of light-colored pea gravel such as best-selling Kolor Scape 0.5 cu. ft. Multicolor Pea Gravel from Lowe's. This protects the root crown from rot and reflects the hot summer sunlight back up into the foliage, keeping the base of your plant bone-dry.

Shop Lavender Essentials

Bringing out the best in your lavender doesn't require plenty of pricey extras. However, a few little care treats can make a huge impact on plant health, flower volume, and essential oil production. This curated trio can help you nurture your favorite fragrant shrubs through the summer heat and set them up for a breathtaking extended season of vibrant color and gorgeous fragrance. Chalks away!

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By this point in June, a peach tree has stopped being a spring project and turned into a summer one. The blossoms are long gone, the little green fruit from a few weeks back have started to swell into something you can picture eating, and the tree is pouring real energy into growing fruit big enough to harvest.

Good peach tree care is really key right now in the back half of summer when your tree's water demands and the insect pressure both crest at once. If you ignore your trees now, they will find a way to let you know their displeasure – split fruit one week, a crop browning on the branch the next.

By the end of June, peach trees are in high gear. The fruit fattens fast, and the heat that ripens it also brings out every pest and disease waiting for a chance. The next few weeks are crucial for how your harvest turns out, so do these tasks now to keep trees happy and full of healthy fruit.

1. Water Deeply

Heat can both help and hurt a peach tree. It helps fruit get bigger quickly, but it also pulls moisture from the soil faster than the roots can replace it. A tree loaded with a full crop of peaches by June often wants an inch or two (2.5-5 cm) of water a week – even more in sandy soil.

Most people water a little bit and very often often, which keeps the surface damp and not much else. But the feeder roots sitting deeper never really get a drink when you water like this.

Instead, a slow soak at the drip line that is deep enough to wet the top foot (30 cm) of soil goes further than a light daily sprinkle. This braided soaker hose from Amazon makes watering peach trees hands-off. It weeps water right where the roots want it.

Steady watering matters as much as deep watering, too. An uneven watering schedule is exactly what causes fruit to split just before harvesting.

2. Thin Out Extra Fruit

Thinning peach trees usually happens earlier in the season, back when the fruit was marble-sized. But plenty of trees head into July still carrying clusters that never got dealt with. It's not too late, though. Crowded fruit stays small and shades its neighbors. It also gives brown rot an easy bridge from one peach to the next.

Aim for one fruit every 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm) along the branch and pull the rest. Prune away the smallest and least healthy fruits first. The tree won't miss them – and you would rather ripen forty good peaches than a hundred mediocre ones. Branches carrying less weight are also far less likely to snap later on in the season, which is one less issue to deal with come August.

3. Prune for Light & Airflow

Pruning peach trees in summer isn't really about shaping the tree. It's about getting sun down to the fruit. By now the tree has thrown up a mass of vertical shoots, also known as water sprouts, that crowd the center and shade the fruit that's trying to color up underneath. Snip them out and the canopy opens up, allowing light to reach the peaches that were sitting in shade.

Keep pruning light. A few targeted cuts to vigorous upright growth plus anything dead or rubbing is all you need to do – this isn't the hard winter prune. A clean pair of Fiskars tree loppers from Amazon make quick work of this task and leave cuts that heal fast, which is important in humid weather when open wounds invite disease. Hold off on pruning if your tree is heat or drought-stressed, though. Let it recover first before making any cuts.

4. Stay Ahead of Brown Rot & Pests

Brown rot on peach trees can be devastating. It turns ripening peaches to brown mush almost overnight and spreads on contact. This common peach disease loves the warm, humid stretch right before harvest. The first defense is sanitation. Pull and bin any dead or rotting fruit the moment you spot it and quickly clear what drops to the ground.

Insects show up around the same time as brown rot. Oriental fruit moths tunnel into shoots and fruit, while stink bugs leave dimpled, corky spots where they feed. A weekly walk around your peach tree to check fruit and the undersides of leaves catches most trouble while it's still manageable.

For brown rot in a wet year, applying an organic fungicide like this one from Amazon as the fruit nears ripeness can help, though cleanup does the heavy lifting. Prevention is the best method of control.

5. Support Heavy Limbs

A branch that looked fine in May may be bending toward the ground by mid-June, weighed down by fruit that's still gaining size. Peach wood is brittle and a heavy limb that splits takes next year's growth with it – sometimes a third of the tree in one loud crack. Walk around trees in June and find the branches sagging the lowest.

Propping up heavy branches is simple. A notched board or a sturdy stake wedged under the limb takes the strain. Alternatively, a set of adjustable limb supports from Amazon does the same job with less fuss, if you'd rather not DIY your own supports.

Tie-ups work, too. Anchor heavy branches to a central stake with soft cloth strips so nothing bites into the bark. Either way, complete this task before the fruit reaches full weight – not after you hear the crack.

6. Refresh Mulch & Reduce Fertilizer

A few inches of mulch under a peach tree earns its keep in summer. It holds in moisture between waterings and keeps the soil from getting too hot, all while smothering the weeds competing for the same nutrients your tree needs.

If the layer of mulch you added in spring has thinned or broken down by this point in the summer, top it back up to 2 or 3 inches (5-8 cm) of wood mulch or straw. This organic mulch from Amazon is a great choice. Just keep it pulled back a hand's width from the trunk so the bark stays dry.

Feeding is the opposite story. By June, your peach tree should already have what it needs in terms of nutrients and a shot of nitrogen now will only encourage soft new growth right when it should be steering everything it has into fruit and, later, into hardening off for winter. Late feeding can also delay fruit ripening and produce tender shoots that won't survive a cold snap. Hold off on fertilizing peach trees until next spring.

June is a critical time for apple trees, as they shift from spring blossoms to fruit development. The trees are putting a lot of energy into growing fruits, but also into healthy foliage and strong roots. A few simple care tasks improve overall tree health and fruit size and quality while also minimizing the risk of typical problems.

Growing apple trees successfully depends on understanding growth timelines, ideal growing conditions, and potential problems. In June, most apple trees are in the early fruit development stage. Pollination has led to the production of small apples that will grow in size over the course of the summer.

During this crucial growth period, you might encounter a few issues, like pests, fungal infections, or overburdened branches. A fruit tree spray from Amazon can help manage pests and diseases. You might also see some fruit drop, which is normal. Apple trees drop some fruits early to prevent branches from getting too heavy. Some loss now is normal.

By following these essential June chores for apple trees, you can maximize your harvest and enjoy healthy trees for years to come.

1. Hand Thin the Fruits

June fruit drop is normal, but you can also aid this natural process by hand thinning some of the apples. By selectively removing some of the developing fruits now, you’ll get bigger, better-quality apples later in the season.

Apple trees produce more fruit than they can actually bring to healthy maturity. If some do not drop, or if you don’t remove them, the crowded apples won’t develop to full size and might have less flavor. Also, the overburdened branches can break under the weight of too much fruit.

To hand thin your apple tree, start by removing any fruits that look damaged, misshapen, or infested with insects. Then, thin out fruit with the goal of leaving one apple every six to eight inches (15 to 20 cm) along a branch.

2. Water During Heat and Drought

The weather in June can be unpredictable in many places. If you experience dry, hot periods, you’ll need to water your apple tree to keep it healthy and happy. Inconsistent moisture is a typical reason apple trees don’t produce well in a given season.

Ensure your apple trees get about an inch (2.5 cm) of water per week. If it isn’t raining, water deeply at the root zone about once a week. Water more frequently during very hot, dry weather and for younger trees.

3. Look for Signs of Pests or Disease

Apple tree pests and diseases can quickly ruin an apple harvest, so it’s best to look for signs early and often. The sooner you catch and manage these issues, the more likely you are to still get a good number of quality apples later.

Codling moths are the proverbial worm in the apple. Look for holes in the fruit. Apple maggots leave little dimples on the surface of fruits where they lay eggs. Spider mites leave behind silk webbing and cause leaves to look scorched. Aphids leave sticky honeydew behind, attracting ants and causing leaves to curl. Woolly aphids also leave behind a cottony material.

Common diseases on apple trees include apple scab and powdery mildew. Scab causes dark green spots on leaves and fruit. Mildew looks like a white or gray powder on leaves and new shoots. You can manage or prevent diseases like these by trimming your trees for airflow and avoiding watering from above. Remove infected growth or use a recommended fungicide, like Captain Jack's Fruit Tree Spray from Amazon, as needed.

4. Light Summer Pruning

Your apple tree needs to direct its energy into fruit development right now, not new growth. June is a good time to do some light pruning to trim back aggressive new shoots that drain energy. This trimming will also open up the canopy to improve airflow and sunlight penetration.

Use sharp, clean shears to trim off water sprouts and suckers. Water sprouts are the new shoots that grow out of main branches on the tree. Suckers are similar shoots that grow from the base of the tree.

5. Fertilize if Needed

Healthy, older trees probably don’t need feeding right now. On the other hand, younger trees can benefit from some June feeding. Trees of any age showing signs of nutrient deficiency, like pale leaves or minimal growth, can also use a light feeding now.

If you feel like your tree could use some extra nutrients, use a balanced product. Avoid products higher in nitrogen, which will encourage leaf growth at the expense of fruit. If you’re not sure your tree needs feeding, do a soil test or check in with your local extension office for guidance.

6. Support Heavy Branches

Even with fruit thinning, some branches can become very heavy as the apples develop. They can crack or even break all the way through. If you see branches that look too weak to hold up their load of fruit, you can use a sturdy stick or post under it to prop it up. You can also use soft ties to anchor it to the trunk or a sturdier branch. Keep monitoring these questionable branches throughout the season.

June is one of the most important months in the apple-growing season. By thinning fruit, watering and feeding as needed, and staying on top of issues like pests and diseases, you can enjoy bigger, better apples and healthier trees both this season and many more.

June is an important time for lavender care. In many growing regions, this is when the fragrant herb starts to bloom. In warmer regions, your lavender should already be actively flowering. This means that maintenance is important for keeping your plants healthy and productive.

Growing lavender isn’t difficult, but it does require timely care, including these June tasks that will ensure healthy growth, continuous flowering, and a tidier appearance.

Let's dig in to the essential care tasks for your lavender plants in June.

1. Start Harvesting

This is one of the best summer chores for lavender. If your plants have begun flowering, you can start harvesting now. English lavender is in peak bloom in many regions in June, while other types are just getting going. Harvesting lavender now—and throughout the summer— allows you to enjoy the flowers and prevents plants from getting leggy.

Use sharp, clean shears or scissors to snip off entire stems in bloom. (Our editors swear by the Felco 2 pruning shears, which can be found on Amazon). Make the cut a few inches below the flower spike, but avoid cutting down to the woody part of the stem. Lavender plants won’t produce new growth from old wood.

Use your harvest as fresh cut stems for arrangements or let the flowers dry for use in potpourri or sachets, soaps and other beauty products, or culinary recipes.

2. Deadhead Spent Flowers

You probably don’t want to harvest all of your lavender flowers. The pretty, fragrant flower spikes that remain on plants are part of their appeal in garden beds and along walkways. However, it is important to deadhead these as they fade.

Deadheading lavender redirects energy away from seed production and back into the plant to keep it healthy and to promote strong growth next season. Depending on where you grow lavender, deadheading may also encourage a second flush of blooms this season.

Snip off flower stalks once they are totally spent and before they start producing seeds. Snip each stem just above the first set of healthy leaves. You can use any flowers that dried on the stalks as long as they haven’t begun to rot. They should still be fragrant.

3. Check Soil Moisture and Water as Needed

Lavender is generally a drought-tolerant plant. In fact, it can suffer if grown in soil that stays consistently moist and will not survive standing water for long. On the other hand, rising temperatures and dry spells in summer can be problematic for any plant.

Finding balance in the soil for lavender is key. Check the soil around your plants periodically. If there is too much moisture, you may need to improve drainage. If the soil is always dry due to weather conditions, water your lavender periodically. Use a moisture meter like this one from Amazon, or check the soil with your finger. Water when the first two inches (5 cm) or deeper is dry.

Use a soaker hose irrigation system to water deeply and avoid getting the leaves wet. Give the roots a good, deep soaking infrequently during dry periods without rain. Water more often for new and young plants to help them establish deep roots. Regardless of the age of the plant, less is always more when it comes to watering lavender.

4. Prune Lightly and Check for Problems

Lavender can get leggy and floppy during its active summer growing season. Pruning lavender can prevent or fix this issue, but keep it light. Save heavy pruning for later in summer or fall. Now is the time to tidy and gently shape your lavender plants to keep them looking shapely and healthy.

When you make pruning cuts on lavender, always keep at least an inch of green growth above the woody part of the stem. New growth rarely comes from the old wood on lavender plants, so if you cut too far, that stem might not recover.

You can double up this chore with another important one: checking for pests and disease. Lavender isn’t as susceptible to these as other plants, but it’s still worth being vigilant. Look for aphids, spittlebugs, root rot, and fungal diseases. Signs of issues include wilting or blackened stems, especially if the soil is moist, yellow foliage, and sticky residue on leaves. Remove diseased parts of the plant and use a spray of water or neem oil to manage minor pest infestations.

5. Manage Weeds and Airflow

Too much moisture is the most common killer of lavender plants. Water that gets trapped close to stems, on leaves, and in the soil can quickly lead to fungal diseases and rot. Manage the soil with appropriate watering.

To keep leaves and stems dry, take steps to ensure good airflow within and between plants. If your lavender plants have grown over the years to the point they crowd each other, do some light trimming to open up spaces between and within them.

It’s also important to keep up with weeds. Not only do they compete with plants for nutrients, but they also reduce airflow and trap moisture when they crowd your lavender plants. Pull weeds that are likely shooting up now that the weather is consistently warm.

June care for lavender plants is basic but essential. Start harvesting flowers, deadhead those that remain in place, prune lightly, water as needed, and keep on top of weeds, pests, and moisture to ensure ongoing healthy growth and a summer of delicate, aromatic lavender flowers.

I’ve been a gardening editor for longer than I want to admit, and I’ve been growing tomatoes from the start. My work has meant I’ve been lucky enough to visit goodness knows how many nurseries and talk to a gazillion professional growers, and I’ve hoovered up tips and tricks the whole time. So believe me, I’ve tried out way more than my fair share of professional hacks in pursuit of a perfect crop of juicy toms that keeps on coming all summer long.

And yes, as a regular Instagram scroller, I’ve tried out plenty of unprofessional tips too. Honestly, quite a few of both types turned out to be absolute hogwash. Some had the potential to be downright deadly (here’s looking at you, baking soda making tomatoes sweeter). But a few actually worked.

Heeding tomato care basics such as supporting and pruning tomato plants will bring you a decent initial crop of tomatoes. But here’s the thing: if you want to keep tomato plants producing plenty of tomatoes as the weather gets hotter, foliage and fruit become more susceptible to disease, and sap-sucking insects move in, you need some extra tricks up your sleeve. These days, I only raise six tomato plants each summer because I’m confident – thanks to my trial and error testing of all those hacks – that I can keep them producing bumper crops of toms for months on end. And just look how many tomatoes those few plants produce.

These are those expert tomato growing tips, so you too can harvest more than ever before.

1. Basil Supports Tomato Plant Health

You’ll hear all sorts of hype about companion plants when growing tomatoes, and mostly they’re used either to attract beneficial bugs or deter pesky ones. But there’s one companion plant that does things a little differently and it's an absolute must, because basil directly increases tomato yield by as much as 20%. Scientists have shown that basil releases volatile compounds that prime a tomato plant’s defense mechanisms. So, if a tomato plant is attacked by pests or disease, if it’s got a wingman basil plant growing next to it, it’ll react to that threat faster and more robustly.

Research proves that growing basil alongside a tomato plant helps it grow stronger roots, too, that allow it to cope better with drought and heat. Basil also helps to attract pollinators and deter pests, and even makes fruit taste sweeter.

There are around 150 types of basil and for the full benefit, it’s best to grow a few varieties. Greek basil (Ocimum minimum) is the variety used in the stress-reponse study and seeds are available from Amazon. Purple basil (Ocimum basilicum var. purpurascens) has an intense aroma so is particularly effective at repelling pests, and seeds are available from Eden Brothers. Lemon basil (Ocimum x africanum) is the variety used in the study that found basil can improve tomato flavor perception, and seeds are available from Botanical Interests.

2. Banana Peel is Full of Potassium That Tomatoes Need

You’re likely feeding your tomato plants every 10-14 days with a liquid fertilizer that’s high in potassium, like this Espoma Organic Tomato Feed from Amazon. Plants need many nutrients for healthy growth but broadly speaking, nitrogen promotes leaf and stem growth, phosphorus aids root development, and potassium helps flowers and fruit form; these are collectively known as the NPK ratio.

And as luck would have it, banana peel is super-high in potassium, and you can use it to give plants an extra boost with a mild, slow release of nutrients. Some people mix chopped-up banana peel into the compost at the base of planting holes when moving tomatoes outdoors. I choose to make a supplementary banana peel tea whenever the opportunity arises, steeping a couple of chopped-up peels in a quart-jar of water for three or four days, then pouring the strained tonic onto the soil, diluting first if it looks strong.

Banana peel also contains a small amount of calcium, which helps prevent blossom end rot (which causes those leathery black patches on tomato bases), and trace elements that support photosynthesis. Importantly, it doesn’t have any nitrogen, so won’t fuel leafy growth.

3. An Electric Toothbrush Improves Pollination

Tomato flowers need to be pollinated before they can set fruit. Happily, each flower contains both male and female parts so all that needs to happen is a little movement to shake the pollen free from the male anther cone and onto the female stigma. If you’re growing tomatoes outside then buzzing insects and the wind will naturally ensure this little jiggle happens. But, if you’re raising your toms on a kitchen windowsill or in a greenhouse, your plants could probably do with a little pollinating help.

Flowers can increasingly fail to pollinate as summer temperatures heat up, too. Once daytime temperatures are above 90°F or if it's over 70°F at nighttime – and remember, greenhouses can be far hotter than the air outside – pollen can become too dry or sticky to easily be distributed. Those flowers that dry up and drop off your plants? They're likely to be the blooms that failed to pollinate and, as the season progresses, you’ll see an increasing number of these on each truss.

Unless, of course, you employ an electric toothbrush to deliver that essential buzz. Hold the back, non-bristly side of the toothbrush head gently against the stem directly above each flower for a couple of seconds, when conditions are dry. Tomato flowers only have a 50-hour window for pollination so, to get full trusses across all your plants, you’ll need to do this every two days. You can buy super-cheap rechargeable electric toothbrushes such as this from Amazon, so don’t even consider using your own!

Shading plants in a greenhouse from the midday sun will also help pollination rates. Opt for 40-50% sunblock so plants still get plenty of sun to photosynthesize, with a shade cloth like this from Amazon, and position it so it only blocks the strongest overhead midday rays.

4. DIY Drip Irrigation is a Game-Changer

Let’s be honest, how regularly do you water your tomato plants? Most toms are on a rollercoaster ride between saturated and dry soil, and one of the most important things you can give a tomato plant while it’s fruiting is consistent moisture. Any big swings in soil moisture stresses plants, leads to blossom end rot, and cracked, split fruit. A dehydrated plant may also drop its flowers.

Drip irrigation systems are great, but there are lots of other, cheaper ways you can stabilize soil moisture between waterings or rainfall. I’ve DIYed drip irrigation systems from upcycled pop bottles, and you can see how I made them here.

I now also use clay LECA balls such as these from Amazon as pot-toppers to regulate moisture, and I DIY sunken water reservoirs alongside my bigger tomato plants to mimic how ollas (like these from Amazon) work. Mixing coconut coir such as this from Amazon into the soil is another way to help it hold onto an excess of water then release it slowly.

Yes, I water just as often, but the soil is delivered to my plants far more evenly and that means they’re far less stressed. It also means that I can go away for the weekend without having to ask my nosy neighbor to water my precious toms, so I'm far less stressed, too.

5. Stopping Feeding is as Important as Starting Feeding

We all know we need to feed our tomato plants to produce lots more fruit, and to start as soon we spot the first flowers. But when do you stop feeding? Because if you carry on feeding too long, you encourage the plant to pointlessly keep on growing rather than directing its energy into ripening the existing fruit.

You should stop feeding around a month before your first expected frost, or once nighttime temperatures start to dip below 50°F. At this point, snip off the top of the main growing stem(s) too, known as ‘topping’. This stops the plant growing upwards and forces it to direct all its energy into ripening its existing trusses of tomatoes.

Basil downy mildew moves fast, and by the time most gardeners notice something is wrong, the plant is usually well into trouble. The good news is that the earliest signs are easy to spot once you know exactly where to look.

One day the basil looks fine. A few days later the leaves are yellowing, the undersides have gone fuzzy and gray, and half the plant is headed for the compost. That’s basil downy mildew, and it has wrecked more summer harvests than almost any other trouble this herb runs into. It’s a fairly recent arrival that spread fast, and most basil growers now run into it sooner or later.

It ranks among the nastier basil diseases because it works so quietly at first, doing a fair impression of a nutrient problem before the damage surfaces. By the time the cause is obvious, the plant is often too far gone to save. That slow start is most of why downy mildew on basil earns its reputation, and why knowing what it is helps.

What Is Basil Downy Mildew​?

Despite the name, the culprit isn’t a fungus. It’s an oomycete, which is a water mold (Peronospora belbaharii) closer to the organism behind potato blight than to anything an ordinary fungicide was built for. Garden-store sprays don’t hit it the way they would a fungus, and that’s much of why it stays so hard to shift. It spreads on windborne spores, so a plant can catch it even in a spotless garden with no obvious source nearby. (Luckily, there are now some downy-mildew resistant varieties of basil like ‘Noga’ from Botanical Interests.)

Downy mildew spores don’t ask for much once they land. Warm days and muggy nights suit them, especially with water sitting on the leaves overnight. From there they germinate, work into the leaf, and infect the plant before the first yellow patch even shows. Sweet basil, the big soft-leaf type most people grow for pesto, takes the worst of it. The spicier small-leaf and citrus-scented basils shrug it off a bit better, though none are truly safe. Spores ride along on seed, too, so even a clean start from a fresh packet isn’t a guarantee you’ve dodged it.

Catching Basil Downy Mildew Early

The first signs don’t usually look like a disease. Leaves begin to yellow, usually in patches fenced in by the veins, so the discoloration looks blocky and angular rather than spreading evenly across the leaf. A lot of growers take this for a feeding issue and reach for fertilizer, which does nothing here except burn a few days the plant can’t spare.

Flip an affected leaf over and look hard at the underside. There’s a dusty gray-purple coating down there, the sort of thing you’d swipe at assuming it was soil splash, except it doesn’t rub away. That coating is the pathogen making its spores, and a plant at that point is already dusting the air around it with the next round of infection. Turn a few leaves over twice a week through warm, humid weather. It’s the one check that actually buys you any time.

Treating a Basil Downy Mildew Infection

Here’s the blunt version: once downy mildew has a real grip, the plant isn’t going to recover. No home spray reverses an active infection. What you can do is slow it and rescue a harvest. Strip off affected leaves and pull hard-hit plants. Bag that debris rather than composting it, since the spores carry over, and get whatever is left drier and airier; the disease stalls once leaves stop staying wet.

Commercial products work better as shields than cures. Biofungicides built around beneficial bacteria, the Bacillus subtilis sprays like this from Amazon sold for vegetable patches, can hold the disease off plants that aren’t infected yet, applied before trouble starts. Copper-based fungicides like this from Amazon do something too, but keep expectations low; the effect on a water mold is modest, and rain rinses it off.

None of it brings back a plant already furred over with spores. Get the first spray on before symptoms, or save your money.

Keeping Downy Mildew off Your Basil

Once it shows up in your area, it’s not a matter of if—it’s when, and airflow is what decides how bad it gets. Prevention mostly comes down to one idea: take away the damp, stagnant air the disease feeds on. Spacing is where a lot of people slip up, crowding basil when it wants room to breathe. Give each plant more room than feels necessary and the air keeps moving.

Watering basil matters, too. Aim for the base, do it in the morning, and the leaves dry off over the day. The harder case is indoors or under glass, where the air just hangs. That’s where a small oscillating fan from Amazon earns its keep, pushing a breeze across the foliage to keep surfaces dry.

The easiest defense against downy mildew is actually to choose a variety of basil that is mildew resistant! A lot of sweet basils exist now because breeders set out to beat this thing. A downy mildew-resistant basil variety, like ‘Noga’ from Botanical Interests, paired with good airflow is about as safe as basil gets.

The rest is small stuff that stacks up. Choose healthy transplants and look them over first, since it rides in on infected starts as readily as on the wind. And keep cutting. Basil that gets picked often stays open and airy, and an open plant makes a frustrating target for something that needs everything damp and still.

Oh what a beautiful morning! It’s a great feeling and a great song. But the lyrics are sufficient to convince you to leave corn out of your small garden design. Yep, that’s the song that says “The corn is as high as an elephant’s eye, and it looks like it’s climbin’ clear up to the sky.”

Now that’s a lovely image, but it doesn’t work in a small, urban garden. Combine that with the common wisdom that you need multiple rows to get the plants pollinated, and growing corn gets crossed off the list of garden tasks.

But – to stick with the lyrics theme – “the times they are a-changing.” Today there are several dwarf species that might work well in the backyard garden. We’re here to introduce you.

The Problem with Growing Traditional Corn

Fresh corn on the cob is one of the garden crops emblematic of summer! You pick the largest ears in the garden, pluck them, shuck them, then roast them over the fire. A large ear of ripe corn is almost a meal itself.

But typically, gardeners with small backyards don’t plant this crop. The individual plants tend to grow taller than you are, and some species can achieve a height of 14 feet (4.5 meters) tall. That’s just not practical for someone with an urban garden. Even a few plants would shade out lower sun-loving crops like tomatoes and peppers, and you’ll need more than one or two.

Because all types of corn are largely wind-pollinated, with the breeze carrying pollen from the tassels to the silks, the ideal is to plant corn in block formations. This system increases the chances of pollen reaching the silks. Even if you plant corn tight, an 8-by-8 block will take up at least 21 feet (7m) squared.

New Stalks on the Block

Today, corn in the backyard garden is no longer a pipedream. Several types of corn have been developed that are small enough to grow in a regular, behind-the-house garden. Some corn can be grown in a container on a sunny patio! One is a Burpee special called On Deck Hybrid. The other is a dwarf variety known as Blue Jade Dwarf Sweet Corn.

1. On Deck Hybrid Corn

Burpee has done it again. They’ve developed the first-ever sweet corn you can grow in a container. It’s known as On Deck Hybrid, and specimens never grow above 5 feet (1.5m) tall, yet the delicious, bicolor ears grow to 8 inches long.

This tasty breakthrough bicolor variety grows well on containers. You can plant 18 seeds in a single, 24-inch (.6m) container on your patio. The stalks grow fast, with each one producing two or three ears - while also adding that vertical interest your deck needed. And it’s speedy! The time from planting to grilling is only two months. You can find On Deck corn seeds from Burpee.

2. Blue Jade Dwarf Sweet Corn

Neither you and I would select a corn variety because we like the color of the ears, but I've got to say that the deep silver-blue kernels of Blue Jade Dwarf sweet corn is utterly lovely. They start out white but mature to a steely blue. That blue deepens even more once the corn is cooked. And these ears of blue corn taste as good as they look.

Blue Jade Dwarf sweet corn really are dwarf plants, never growing taller than 4 feet (1.3m). Low-growing and reliable - with each stalk producing two ears - Blue Jade take about 80 days after planting to mature. Harvest the ears when they are blue with a little light-yellow in the kernels. Cobs can only be called cuties, each one about half the size of a standard ear of sweet corn. You can find Blue Jade seeds from Hudson Valley Seed Co.

Other Dwarf Corn Options

There are other dwarf corn options out there that you might want to consider, each with its own characteristics. All of these varieties stay under 5 feet (1.6m) tall and mature in 80 days or less.

• Early Sunglow. Did you know that some corn is sugar-enhanced? Early Sunglow is a dwarf variety that contains a sugar enhancer gene that makes the kernels sweeter and more tender. It’s a dwarf yellow corn that grows 5-6 inch ears with sweet, tender kernels. Count on 60-65 days to mature. Find Early Sunglow corn seeds from Ferry-Morse.
• Bodacious. Bodacious is even smaller than Early Sunglow, the stalks topping out at 3-4 feet (1-1.3m) tall. It's a miniature yellow hybrid corn that grows ears between 6 and 8 inches. Seed to harvest is about 10 weeks. You can find Bodacious sweet corn seeds from Park Seed.
• Peaches & Cream. Here’s a pretty dwarf corn plant. Peaches & Cream is really lovely, growing to 4 feet (1.3m) with bicolored kernels - bright yellow and white. The ears are 7 inches long and take 11 weeks to mature. Peaches & Cream sweet corn seeds can be purchased from Ferry-Morse.

June is a big month for tomatoes. Right now they should be putting out tons of new branches and leaves, their stems should be thickening, and the first flowers and fruit should appear soon. But if your tomato leaves are turning yellow this early in the season, then it’s crucial to figure out the cause and treat the problem fast.

Yellow leaves on tomatoes can occur for a variety of reasons. Some of them are no big deal and easy to fix. But if others are left untreated, they could have serious implications on your plants for the rest of the season. Your harvest could be much smaller or even nonexistent, depending on the severity of the problem.

Whatever the issue, though, there is a solution. But the first step is identifying the problem. I’ll walk you through the three most common causes of yellow tomato leaves in June and how to deal with each of these complications.

1. Nutrient Deficiencies

The most likely cause for yellow leaves on tomatoes in June is a nutrient deficiency. Tomato seedlings often turn yellow before you even transplant them into the garden because they’ve used up all the nutrients built into the seeds from which they sprouted. That’s why it’s important to fertilize tomatoes in June, especially if you didn’t give them a dose of fertilizer when you transplanted them into the garden.

Often leaves turn yellow when there is a nitrogen deficiency in the soil – nitrogen is what stimulates lots of green, leafy growth. But phosphorus and potassium are also key for producing lots of fruit, so you don’t want to overdo it with the nitrogen in order to get green leaves at the expense of actual tomatoes. Though, a potassium deficiency can cause yellowing around the edges of your tomato leaves as well.

Iron and magnesium deficiencies can also cause yellowing leaves on tomatoes. But rather than the entire leaf turning yellow, these nutrition problems exhibit themselves in different ways. Iron chlorosis causes the leaves to yellow and the stems to remain green. A magnesium deficiency causes leaves to take on a yellow, splotchy appearance.

The best course of action is to first do a soil test – this quick and easy at-home soil test kit from Home Depot is a great option for immediate results – before choosing a fertilizer for your plants. A one-size-fits-all fertilizer is not ideal, especially if your plants are already turning yellow. A simple soil test will tell you exactly what nutrients your tomatoes are lacking and guide you to choose the proper plant food for your particular plants.

2. Diseases

A variety of different tomato diseases can cause leaves to turn yellow. In June, the most likely diseases to impact your plants are:

• Early Blight
• Late Blight
• Septoria Leaf Spot
• Leaf Mold
• Bacterial Spot
• Fusarium Wilt
• Tomato Pith Necrosis
• Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus

The best way to both prevent these diseases is to provide proper tomato care. Do a soil test before planting and amend your soil based on those results. Water plants at the base to prevent splashback onto leaves, which can spread diseases. Provide consistent irrigation so plants are not stressed and more vulnerable to disease. When pruning tomato plants, always clean your pruners between each plant to prevent disease spread.

As an extra precaution, especially if you’ve encountered any of these diseases in previous years, choose disease-resistant tomato varieties to grow in your garden. Botanical Interests is a great source for disease-resistant tomato seeds. Or you can shop disease-resistant tomato starter plants from Bonnie Plants.

3. Herbicide Drift

Another cause of yellow leaves on tomato plants is herbicide drift, however, this is much less common. Still herbicides can travel via the wind for up to a mile and harm your tomato plants, causing them to twist, turn yellow, and become stunted. This issue is more likely if you live near a commercial farm, but it can still occur in any neighborhood.

If you use herbicides in your landscape, never apply them on a windy day and try to stay as far away from your tomatoes as possible. Ideally, you should hand-pull weeds with a tool like Grampa’s Weeder from Walmart, which works wonders on the dandelions in my yard. You can also try a safer organic weed control method instead, so you don’t accidentally harm your own plants.

Herbicides are also sometimes present in low-quality soil mixes, composts, and mulches. That’s why you should sometimes be careful when using free mulch, free compost, or free garden soil. If possible, find out the source of the material to ensure it does not contain unwanted herbicides that can ruin your garden.

The type of lavender tea that you might be aware of is drinkable, refreshing, and well documented for calming frayed human nerves. But there is another type of lavender tea that can give some of your most beloved plants the ultimate pick-me-up. It comes from the clippings of lavender prunings you’ll be starting to make in June. So before you head to the compost pile to dump armfuls of aromatic stalks, read this.

It turns out the compounds that make lavender so insect-resistant and structurally resilient are really useful to plants, too. They can be extracted to form a defensive shield for key backyard favorites. When their fresh stems and spent blooms are steeped in water, they release water-soluble elements, including tannins and polyphenols, which carry mild antifungal and pest-deterrent properties. So why should the compost heap get all the benefit of that deal?

You can make a lavender tea or tonic that can be used as a foliar spray in your yard, in much the same way as you apply many other types of fertilizer. Of course, this herbal steep can’t fully replace a balanced soil approach to plant care. But the unique blend of antifungal and pest-deterrent elements you find in lavender prunings simply don’t come with most other conventional sprays and applications. So why not take advantage of this easy lavender tonic?

Why Lavender Tea Plant Tonics Work

The main compound you need to know about for this lavender tonic is linalool. This is what produces that crisp, recognizable fragrance we love. In the insect world, it also functions as a warning sign. In terms of lavender tea benefits, a cold water steep won’t produce the same clout that concentrated oils achieve, but soft-bodied pests like aphids and whitefly treat even a dilute chemical signal as a suggestion to look elsewhere. It’s about natural displacement rather than chemical destruction, which is exactly what we want for sustainable, preventative backyard maintenance.

Beyond the insect-repelling powers of linalool, rich stores of plant tannins handle the defensive antifungal side of the equation. Lavender is reasonably tannin-rich, and those tannins have recognized antifungal properties. When you spray this mixture over clean foliage, it can thwart devastating fungal issues like powdery mildew. Another of your great lavender tea uses involves the trace amounts of potassium that will leach into the tonic. When absorbed by target plants, potassium helps to fortify plant cell walls, making the tissue tougher for pests to pierce.

Applied before problems appear, the combination gives treated plants a strong head start. Used as a foliar spray, the antifungal compounds can limit fungal development. So if you grow lavender and you have more June trimmings than you know what to do with, this lavender tonic is a win-win. If you’re worried about early signs of pests on plants like roses, grab a loupe or magnifying glass. You can buy XYK’s 40X Jeweler's Loupe from Amazon to steal a closer look before making our tonic.

Best Lavender Varieties to Use

Not all lavender varieties are made the same way, and understanding the distinct profiles can be helpful. If you fancy a potent, high-vitality garden tonic, then true English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is ideal. Thriving in USDA hardiness zones 5-9, these varieties are packed with a clean, concentrated volume of linalool and polyphenols. Cultivars like classic 'Munstead' or robust 'Hidcote' yield a potent tea from mid-season trimmings. If you’d like to add to your lavender collection, you can buy Munstead Live Plants from Burpee for a reliable, oil-rich plant tonic source.

Then there are massive hybrid lavandins (Lavandula x intermedia), like the popular 'Phenomenal' or 'Grosso' varieties. These gorgeous, long-stemmed beasts love the heat and offer a profusion of stalks. Their oils lean much heavier into camphorous notes. While this makes them slightly less sweet to our noses, that high-camphor punch makes them perfect if your main garden headache is repelling soft-bodied insects. For a heavy-blooming hero, buy Phenomenal Live Shrubs from Nature Hills.

Avoid using French or Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas) for brewing tea. Their ruffled blooms look stunning, but their resinous chemical composition is less effective in a simple, cold-water backyard bucket setup like this one. So now we know about the benefits of lavender tea, it’s time to crack on with making some…

Making Your Lavender Tonic

The best time to gather your raw ingredients is during June, as we enter the summer pruning and deadheading window for lavender. Collect a mix of spent flower spikes, tender green stems, and small leafy debris from shaping plants. Just exclude woody old growth or any parts showing signs of disease. A rough working ratio is a loosely packed double-handful of freshly chopped garden material for every one gallon (3.8L) of clean water. If you’re after precision snips or shears for harvesting, Corona Forged Steel ClassicCUT Bypass Pruners from Amazon make clean cuts.

Place your chopped prunings into a clean container and submerge in cool or ambient room-temperature water. Don’t use hot water, which drives off the volatile linalool oils faster than they can steep out. Pour into a bucket or jar and cover with water, then stir. Place in a cool spot out of direct sun. A daily stir can help to pull out more water-soluble tannins. When the time is up, strain through a fine mesh filter, such as Reusable Fine Mesh Straining Bags from Walmart. The resulting tonic should be amber or pale-straw in color. Aim to use it within a week, before it begins to sour.

Using Your Lavender Tonic

Dilute your fresh lavender tonic before using it. Go for a straightforward 1:1 ratio with clean, fresh water for foliar use. Some gardeners skip the dilution for a more concentrated application, but starting diluted is safer for sensitive plants and young, tender leaves. A standard pressure sprayer is fine for foliar sprays, as long as it gives you a fine mist that coats each leaf smoothly. If you’re after a good model, Chaplin’s 1-Gallon Pump Sprayer from Amazon gives excellent uniform coverage.

Apply your foliar spray early in the morning on a dry, calm day. This schedule gives the lavender wash plenty of time to dry before nightfall. Spraying late in the evening leaves foliage wet and cold overnight, which creates the exact stagnant environment where fungal diseases like black spot can thrive. Every 2 weeks through summer is a workable cadence for established plantings. For new transplants, skip the spray and instead apply a diluted drench at the root zone, at least until plants have settled.

Plants That Love It – and That Don't!

So which plants are most likely to benefit from this lavender tonic? Try to target plants that are prone to seasonal pest invasions and fungal leaf spots. Ornamental garden roses are perfect candidates for your lavender tonic. Given their soft, succulent spring growth and high susceptibility to powdery mildew and aphids, they will really appreciate a bi-weekly preventative coating. Don’t forget to deep-feed roses with a balanced granular feed, too, though. A good option is Espoma Organic Rose-Tone Plant Food, available from Home Depot, for robust root nutrition.

Perennials like garden phlox, stately delphiniums and colorful zinnias also benefit, as they are magnets for midsummer fungal leaf infections. And if you grow vegetables, treating heavy-feeding crops like tomatoes and squash will help to keep whitefly numbers down without introducing harsh synthetics around edible harvests.

Avoid drought-loving plants like stonecrops (sedum) and soft succulents. Gray-leafed Mediterranean herbs like rosemary or sage also loathe having their foliage frequently wetted. Also avoid spraying plants with fuzzy or velvety leaf surfaces, such as lamb's ear or alpine woolly thyme, as the extra trapped moisture can leave plants vulnerable to rot. And don’t spray blooming plants where beneficial predatory insects or native pollinators are working. Even natural bug deterrents can disrupt foraging patterns.

What to Expect from this Tonic

The results of using this lavender tonic tend to be cumulative rather than dramatic. A few applications over a few weeks typically push soft-bodied pest numbers down rather than eliminating them outright, but in most cases that’s enough to keep things in check. You should notice a steady downward trend in visible numbers. The bugs simply find the treated leaves deeply unappealing and quietly relocate elsewhere, allowing your plants to outgrow any initial, early-season damage.

The long-term antifungal benefits are harder to track directly, because success is defined by an absence of symptoms. By late August, your treated perennials will be clean, green, and vibrant, while untreated neighbors will likely be showing signs of mildew. Remember to show your lavender some love, with a light top-dressing of organic mulch and a light feeding of a balanced feed, You can buy Dr Earth Premium Gold All Purpose Fertilizer from Amazon to keep your hard-working lavender vibrant, healthy, and pushing out oil-rich stems for many summers to come.

Shop Lavender Tonic Essentials

Making this useful lavender tonic doesn't require a massive financial investment or a shed full of complicated equipment. Just a few well designed, hard working items are all you need to prepare, store, and apply this super-useful plant tonic. This trip of lavender tea goodies will help you cleanly harvest your materials and safely deliver every drop of your homemade pest-busting tonic where your garden needs it most.

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Planting tomatoes in spring is important, but don’t underestimate the importance of caring for your plants in June. If you start good tomato-care habits now, you’ll get better quality fruit more fruit, and a plant that lives longer.

When you are growing tomatoes, you can’t rest on your laurels in June. Early summer is a critical period for tomato plants as they develop from green leaves into summer fruits. Don’t worry – the tasks are not complex.

The top five things you need to do for tomatoes in June are simple actions like giving them water, fertilizer, a support system, mulch and a haircut.

What Tomatoes Need in June

For tomatoes to be happy campers, they need a proper growing location where they get at least 6 hours a day of direct sunlight each day and moist, well-draining soil. If you planted in May, upkeep starts in June. Here are the five most important tasks to keep those plants healthy and growing.

1. Provide Support for Tomato Plants

If you have young kids, you know that sense of shock when you see how fast they grow. One minute they are babes in arms; the next minute, it seems, they are riding a bike. The same is true for your tomato plants in June.

Tomato plants shoot up amazingly fast. In early June, it’s time to set up a support system for them. By late June, the plants are too heavy and tangled to move them around. What happens if you don’t support them? They can drag on the ground, bend, develop disease, and even snap. Great support options include modular tomato cages, stakes, and trellises.

This snap-together system, available from Amazon, is a personal favorite of Gardening Know How Senior Editor Liz Baessler. If you have waited too long to install a traditional cage, you can just build this modular system around your plants with no fuss!

2. Water Deeply and Regularly

Think of cutting into a big ripe tomato; it’s full of juice! That suggests that you can’t grow tomatoes without regular water. While all young tomato plants need moist soil, tomatoes require even more water in June as temperatures rise.

For June irrigation, regular deep watering is the rule. It encourages deeper, stronger root systems and better drought resistance. Water slowly and deeply, putting the water around the roots of the plants, never overhead. Installing a drip irrigation system like this Rain Bird watering kit from Amazon is easy to do and will keep your tomatoes perfectly watered, even while you're on vacation. Watering early in the morning is ideal so that the leaves will be dry well before nightfall. Wet foliage at night is a recipe for fungal issues.

How often should you water? You want to irrigate at least once a week, but you might need to water more frequently if the weather is hot and dry. The idea is to keep the soil consistently moist. Going from very dry to very wet will cause your fruits to crack.

3. Add Mulch Around the Base of Plants

One way to help tomatoes hold moisture in the soil is to apply mulch. This is particularly important as summer temperatures rise. Spreading a few inches of mulch around the base of each tomato plant will also suppress weeds and keep the roots cooler.

Mulching also prevents soil from “bouncing” up onto foliage when it rains, an event that results in soil-borne diseases to spread to the lower leaves.

When mulching in June, remember to keep the mulch an inch or so from the main stem. What to use for mulch? Some good choices are straw, pine needles, compost, and shredded leaves.

4. Clip Out Lower Leaves to Improve Airflow

It’s hard to imagine when you are planting your crops, but, by June, tomato plants often become thick and crowded. The lush leaves reduce airflow and increase the risk of fungal disease as the weather grows warmer. Fungal diseases spread fast when leaves remain wet for long periods, the air is stagnant, and plants are overcrowded.

So take your snippers and prune your tomatoes in June. Focus on leaves that touch the soil, and leaves that are yellowing. This will allow more air to circulate, reducing humidity around the plant. It also helps prevent soil-borne diseases from splashing into the lower tomato leaves.

5. Monitor for Early Pest and Disease Problems

What happens in June? People get married, we celebrate the summer solstice, and tomato pests and common tomato diseases first begin appearing. With careful monitoring, you can get out ahead of the problems and avoid severe infestations later in the summer.

What are you looking for? Any signs of bug damage, including yellowing or wilting foliage, spots on leaves, or chewed leaves. You should also note any and all bugs, including aphids, hornworms and whiteflies. Treat these critters ASAP with diatomaceous earth. Be sure to only use food-grade diatomaceous earth, which can be found on Amazon, so that you can enjoy your tomatoes safely.

When it comes to diseases, fungal diseases are on the top of the list. Think about early tomato blight and Septoria leaf spot. Treat diseases when spotted, and take steps to prevent diseases in the future, including watering early in the morning, trimming leaves that touch the ground, and spacing the tomatoes appropriately.

Tomatoes are heavy feeders and fast growers. During June, they enter a stage where they need proper support, balanced watering, airflow, and regular maintenance to continue growing strong through the hottest part of summer.

Nothing says summer like a sweet slice of watermelon. Interestingly, the original watermelons were quite bitter and were selectively bred to be sweet over the course of thousands of years. The ancestors of our modern watermelons were first cultivated in Africa and scientists have recently traced the genome back to a wild variety found in Libya and Sudan at least 6,000 years ago.

That’s a lot of generations of humans and their agricultural efforts to get us to our sweet and juicy modern watermelons! Luckily for the modern home gardener, growing watermelons is easier than ever. A few simple tips and tricks will help you grow the sweetest, juiciest watermelons you have ever tasted. It just takes a little bit of gardening know-how.

Let’s crack open the secrets to growing best watermelons this summer!

1. Turn Up the Heat

As mentioned above, watermelons are native to the northern part of the African continent so they like it hot. The hotter the conditions, the sweeter your watermelons will be. Soil temperatures should be at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18.3 C) before you plant seeds or transplant any indoor-grown seedlings. You can check the top couple inches of soil with a soil thermometer to ensure proper conditions for good germination and healthy plants. This soil thermometer from Urban Worm is available on Amazon and has a large easy-to-read dial.

If you live in a cooler climate, you can increase the warmth of your watermelons by growing them under a floating row cover until temperatures are hot enough. Row cover fabric, our favorite is on Amazon, can be used with hoops or just laid directly over plants. If using a row cover, be sure to ventilate when air temperature reaches 80 degrees F (26.6 C), and remove the cover if temperature reaches 90 degrees F (32.2 C). Watermelons need at least 8 hours of direct sunlight to convert the sun’s energy into tasty fruit.

2. Banish Pests

If your watermelon is destroyed by pests, it isn’t going to be juicy or sweet because you won’t be eating it! Common watermelon pests include aphids, armyworms, cucumber beetles, leaf miners, cutworms, crickets, darkling beetles, and spider mites. Your backyard wildlife might also try to take a bite of your melons (I’ve lost many to a family of groundhogs living under my shed). However, pest management needs to be thoughtfully applied because your watermelons rely on pollination by bees and other beneficial insects. Pesticides don’t discriminate between good bugs and bad bugs.

Using row covers early in the season can help keep pests off of watermelon seedlings, handpicking armyworms and other caterpillars from the plants is an easy daily task. You should also rotate your crops to reduce pests. It’s important to pay attention to plant types when rotating, too. Watermelons and cucumbers are both in the same family (Cucurbitaceae), so pests that were attracted to your cucumbers last year will attack your watermelons this year.

I have had success in keeping animals from taking a bite out of my watermelons by slipping the fruits into some old pantyhose. Pantyhose also make a great sling material to support melons that are growing from a trellis or need a lift off the ground. And even something as simple as placing a laundry basket upside down over the fruits and weighing it down with a brick will keep most animals at bay.

3. Give Them Space

Watermelons need plenty of elbow room to grow big and sweet. Each plant needs at least 3 to 5 feet (1-1.5 m) of space. The tremendous leaves on your plant convert the sun’s rays into sugars in the fruit, so giving them room to grow will help you get the tastiest watermelon possible.

Planting watermelons too close to each other or other plants increases the likelihood of fungal infections on the leaves like powdery mildew and anthracnose. Your watermelon leaves and vines need good airflow to prevent fungal infections. You should also keep an eye on the bottom of your watermelons, if they sit on damp soil the fruit can develop belly rot. Place a thick layer of straw or wood mulch under the fruit to keep them from becoming too damp.

4. Proper Watering

Watermelons are more than 90% water so they need to be watered deeply to be juicy and delicious. It is recommended to give watermelon plants 1 to 2 inches of water per week. A soaker hose buried under the mulch will help keep leaves dry and prevent fungal infections. You can find an affordable soaker hose from Walmart if you don’t already use one.

However, at the end of the season, everything changes. You should stop watering about a week before harvesting watermelons. This will concentrate the sweetness in the fruit and prevent it from bursting as it continues to ripen.

Proper watering, plant spacing, pest control, and growing conditions will ensure your watermelons will be filled with the sweetness of summer. Time to get growing!

Your pepper plants in June might not look like my pepper plants in June. That’s because the date for planting pepper seeds indoors and the date for transplanting them outdoors will vary quite a bit depending on your climate.

However, anyone who is growing peppers this summer will need to take some of the same basic steps in June. These are not complicated vegetables. If you give them a site with the proper amount of sunlight, the appropriate soil, and sufficient water then you are likely good to go.

So here are five essential tasks that you need to do for pepper plants, at any stage, in June.

What Your Pepper Plants Need in June

Hello, summer! You’re just starting to enjoy being outdoors which is a lucky thing, since June is a big month in the garden. Here’s what to do with your pepper plants now for a huge harvest later in the season.

1. Give Them Plenty of Water

This is not a shocker. All young vegetable plants need water. No matter where you live in the United States, June weather will be warmer than May, April, or any of the previous months of the year.

June signals the beginning of summer, with more sun and hotter days, which sends peppers’ water requirements to the top of the to-do list for June. This is true whether your plants are recently transplanted seedlings or established plants.

All pepper plants need water, across all of the growth stages of their lives. Young seedlings need soil that is always moist, but they will die in soggy soil. Give transplanted seedlings a deep, slow watering two or three times a week, depending on weather. A drip irrigation kit from Home Depot, like this one Content Editor Laura uses in her own garden, is a great way to give peppers consistent irrigation at the source.

You want to encourage those young pepper plants to send their roots deep into the soil. Deep roots mean greater drought tolerance. Established plants require 1 or 2 inches (2.5-5 cm) of water per week, ideally through drip irrigation.

2. Make Sure They Get Enough Sun

Yes, some vegetables are happy to grow with more shade than sun – think lettuce – but peppers are not among this crowd. They grow fast and require many hours of direct sunlight every day to produce those crisp and luscious fruit.

Insufficient sunlight means tall, leggy plants and poor pepper crops. One of your June pepper tasks will be to check on their sun quotient and do what’s necessary – whether that's clearing branches above them to transplanting, if necessary – to provide enough sunlight.

How much sun do peppers need? As much as possible. That is, peppers require at least 6 hours per day of direct sun and won’t complain if you give them up to 12 hours. The ideal situation for a pepper plant is a site that gets direct morning sun and a bit of afternoon shade rather than no morning sun and full afternoon sun, which can cause sunscald on peppers.

3. Watch for Pests

The June weather is so nice that the whole family spends more time outside in the backyard. But you aren’t alone. A variety of common pepper pests also like the early summer weather. They show up in the garden, happy and hungry. The golden rule for dealing with pests in the garden is to catch them early. That makes it easier to get rid of them.

The pests you are likely to see in June may depend on where you live. But almost everywhere there are aphids, European corn borer, corn earworm, and pepper maggot. Aphids form colonies on pepper plant leaves, often on the underside, and such out the sap. The other three insect species will damage the fruit.

Monitoring for pests means inspecting those pepper plants every week or even twice a week. Look on the undersides of the leaves for aphids, use yellow sticky traps like these from Amazon, and search for signs of damage. Neem oil, which you can also get from Amazon, is effective on all of these pests as well.

4. Pinch Out Early Flowers

This is a hard one for some gardeners, including me! But it’s a proven fact that pinching out early flowers on pepper plants is a good strategy over time. Early flowers suck energy from the plant during a time when they should focus on developing strong roots and foliage.

Pinching out those blossoms will make your plants more vital and healthier. It can also mean that you’ll get more peppers from each plant. It also puts the brakes on premature pepper fruiting and gives the plant a chance to mature before producing peppers.

5. Add a Protective Layer of Mulch

Mulch is kind of magic. It protects the roots of the plants from temperature spikes and drops, putting a buffer between the soil and the elements. Mulch can also hold moisture in the soil, especially in the hot sun, and reduce the risk that soil-borne pathogens that splash up on the lower leaves of the pepper plants when it rains.

What type of mulch should you use? Pick something natural, a product that will disintegrate into the soil over time. This organic wood mulch from Back to the Roots is a good option. I also like leaf mulch, straw, or grass clippings for peppers.

Be sure that the mulch doesn’t actually touch the stems of the plants or else this can cause fungal diseases. While you are laying the mulch, take the time to clip out the lowest-hanging leaves, too. This is another way to reduce soil splashing.

Lavender deserves a place in every garden, and this easy addition will make your plant feel more at home and produce abundant flowers and more of that exquisite fragrance. It takes minutes to do and works however you grow lavender, whether that's in a pot, a raised bed or in the ground, for all lavender varieties and types.

This perfumed perennial herb, loved for its tall spikes of purple flowers and silvery evergreen foliage, is native to the drier, warmer regions of the Mediterranean basin. From southern Europe to north Africa, western Asia and India, lavender thrives in the full sun and well-drained soil of harsh mountainous and coastal environments and has evolved to flourish with little in the way of water or nutrients.

Now, does this habitat sound like the conditions you’re raising your lavender in? Because if you’re growing Lavandula in a rich potting mix or compost-improved soil and feeding it in the hope of growing a bigger plant and more flowers, you’re missing a trick. Because the key to success with lavender is to mimic the conditions it naturally grows in, which is easily done with a mulch of sand and gravel.

June is lavender's primary growing month, when it's forming lots of flowerbuds so, make the switch now to give your plant the conditions it craves, and you'll see fast results.

How to Mulch Lavender

Whether your lavender is in a planter or in the ground, top-dress the surrounding soil with a 1-2 inch layer of coarse sand and gravel. Use a ratio of three parts gravel to one part sand.

This helps the plant in multiple ways:

• The coarse sand naturally moves down into the soil and gradually improves drainage.
• The gravel improves airflow around the base of the plant and keeps the growing environment drier.
• The gravel also reflects sunlight onto the plant, and retains warmth.
• Weeds are suppressed, as with any mulch.

Finer gravel such as pea gravel like this from Amazon brings best results, though you can use use any type of gravel you already have. It’s important to use coarse sand, though, and preferably sand intended for horticultural use like this from Amazon. Don’t use fine play sand as it can compact and clump together when wet, defeating the purpose of your dry mulch.

If your lavender is currently mulched with organic matter such as bark chips, rake this layer off the soil surface first. An organic mulch works in the opposite way to a gravel mulch, holding moisture around the plant – leading to conditions that lavender hates, and even rotting stems and roots.

Leave a 3-inch gap all around the plant’s core woody stems, and extend the mulch past its outer extremities, or to the pot rim. The further you extend the mulch, the drier and warmer a microclimate you'll create. Visit any lavender field or farm and you'll see how it's done, and how effective this dry mulch is.

What Else You Can Do to Help Lavender Thrive

Giving your lavender plant a sand and gravel mulch is the very best thing you can do to help it thrive. But there are a number of other ways to foster conditions that your plant will flourish in.

1. Skip the fertilizer

For a start, don’t feed lavender plants. Lavender thrives in poor, nutrient-deficient soils and over-fertilizing it stresses the plant, results in weak, floppy growth and can significantly reduce the number of flowers produced. Even in a container, where the plant has limited access to nutrients, it’s better to refresh the top layer of potting mix every year rather than apply fertilizer.

2. Don’t Overwater

While lavender plants should be regularly watered when first planted, once they’ve had a chance to grow their roots down into the ground to source their own moisture supply, gradually reduce how often you irrigate. Depending on your USDA zone, lavender plants will happily rely on rainwater for most of the year, and you need only water once every couple or weeks through prolonged dry spells of weather. Don’t worry if your lavender is planted among perennials that need watering more often: as long as your soil drains well (and your new sand and gravel mulch will aid good drainage), your plant will be fine.

3. Improve Drainage

Lavender planted in pots needs watering more often, but only when the top couple of inches of potting soil are dry. What containerized lavender plants really need is great drainage. Improve it by drilling extra drainage holes into the pot base, moving your plant into a porous terracotta pot, or raising the pot up on risers so roots don't sit in a puddle of water after heavy rain.

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4. Count the Sunshine Hours

For maximum production of that fabulously fragranced oil, lavender needs at least six hours of sunshine a day through spring and summer. Check just how much your plant gets as the season progresses, and make sure it’s not getting shaded out as its neighbors grow.

5. Prune twice a year

A trim in early spring, and again once it’s finished flowering, will encourage healthy, bushy growth. Pruning lavender is an easy job. Make the spring trim light, just to tidy up your plant after winter, and do any shaping in late summer. Then, as long as you leave at least a half-inch of this summer’s growth (you’ll be able to see the difference between this year’s fresh growth and the older, darker, woodier growth), cut off as much as you want to, depending on whether you want to keep your plant compact or let it grow bigger. Leaving this half-inch safety margin means you’ll never cut into the old growth, which the plant may struggle to resprout from.

Lavender’s ability to adapt to diverse environments is one of the reasons why it’s been cultivated for so many centuries, across the globe, so it likely already grows pretty well in your garden, whatever conditions you’ve given it. But just wait till you make your lavender feel properly at home with a sand and gravel mulch: your plant will flourish, and your reward will be more of its glorious flowers and gorgeous fragrance.

What to do with strawberry plants after fruiting in June? Well, there’s one easy and obvious answer: eat them! But along with indulging, there are a few other things you need to do this month. Because what you do right now, in the immediate wake of your strawberry harvest in June, directly dictates whether you will be enjoying that same juicy abundance next June.

When you make the commitment to grow your own strawberries, you have to be prepared to roll up your sleeves and tend to your plants in summer, even after the yummy berries have been enjoyed. Indeed, the things you do now are critical to plant health and vigor and the future quality of your strawbs. Good strawberry care extends well past picking day, and this post-harvest period is a vital transition phase for June-bearing strawberries. Eating a few of those ripe, luscious fruits should be plenty of motivation for taking the best possible care of your plants.

June-bearing strawberry plants shift into a phase of structural repair and energy storage during midsummer. Take care of a few easy steps this month, and you’ll be helping your plants cultivate the rooting networks and dense foliage needed to generate a jackpot of free, luscious, and high-yielding strawberries next year.

5 Things to Do for Strawbs in June

Before you dive into these strawberry care steps for June, confirm that your berries are June-bearing. There are several types of strawberries commonly planted in home gardens. One type is June-bearing, and if you plant these in your berry patch, you get one big harvest of strawberries in late spring or early summer, often in the month of June. After that, the plants stop producing until the following year. The advice given in this article applies to June-bearing strawberry plants such as 'Jewel', 'Chandler', 'Cabot', and 'Allstar' strawbs.

These plants enter a semi-dormant phase for 4-6 weeks after harvesting strawberries, making June the ideal window for these quick steps across USDA hardiness zones 3-9. Before starting, just check soil moisture levels in the ground around your plants before making significant additions. You can buy the highly rated Yamron 4-in-1 Meter from Amazon to ensure the ground is well draining.

Everbearing or day-neutral strawberry varieties behave differently, producing a big crop in early summer, followed by lighter flushes through summer and fall. If you clean up the patch and cut back the everbearing foliage in June, you will forego all the rest of the berries, which would be a shame. For June-bearers, however, these steps are both vital and very straightforward. Once you have checked the soil, grab your trusty trimming tools and don’t forget some sterilizing fluid. You can buy Vi-Jon Swan Isoprophyl Alcohol from Amazon to sterilize cutting tools.

If you’re growing June-bearers in towers, hanging baskets, or terracotta planters, these rules still apply after strawberry harvest time. Container-grown strawberries experience quicker nutrient depletion and moisture loss than in-ground beds, making immediate post-harvest feeding and plant care even more critical. Just use handheld shears for container-grown strawbs so you don't accidentally nick favorite planters.

1. Renovate Strawberry Foliage

Just like you take dead branches off shrubs and trees when pruning, you need to take off dead or dying foliage after strawberry harvest. This tidies the plant and makes more room for healthy foliage to grow. Known as strawberry renovation, this process helps to give plants a new lease of life when they need it most. Wait roughly 7-10 days after harvest time for strawberries so the plants get a brief rest first.

For small beds, use hand pruners to clip away the old leaves. If you’re looking for a reliable bypass pruner, Corona’s ComfortGEL Bypass Pruner from Lowe’s is perfectly sized for making clean, precise cuts through dense strawberry leaf stems without crushing live tissue. If you manage a large, expansive patch, you can drive your lawnmower over the bed, making sure the deck is adjusted to a high setting.

The goal is to get rid of the old, worn-out leaves, while not touching the crowns and roots. This encourages the plant to put its energy toward new growth. It also eliminates the risk of common fungal diseases like leaf spot and powdery mildew. Just don’t renovate a newly planted strawberry patch during its first summer in the ground, and avoid mowing if your region is suffering a blistering heatwave.

2. Propagate or Prune Runners

Runners are shoots that I think of as babies to the mother strawberry plant. These runners (often referred to as stolons) are long, horizontal stems that extend outward from the mother plant. At the end of each long shoot, a small new plant begins to grow. If this baby touches the soil, it will grow roots and propagate a new plant.

In June: you can either let these babies grow into new plants to replace aging crowns or expand your patch size, or clip them off and toss them in the compost bin to preserve the mother plant’s strength. Generally, it’s not a good idea to let many of the runners develop any one year since it weakens the mother plant.

To maintain peak vigor, prune away excess runners so daughter plants are 7-11 inches (17-28cm) apart within a structured matted row. This intentional spacing allows sunlight to penetrate into the crowns, which improves fruit size and sweetness next year. You can buy team favourite Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon to make light work of snipping wiry strawberry runners. Everbearing types rarely produce excessive runners, so this task is just for June-bearing varieties.

3. Feed Your Plants

Once your June-bearers are neatly trimmed and narrowed, it’s time to feed them. June-bearing strawberries require a targeted application of nitrogen after renovation to help regrow and repair leaves and roots. Apply a balanced feed or nitrogen-rich amendment directly to the soil surrounding the plants. Spread one-half teaspoon of a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer around the base of each individual crown.

Avoid going overboard, though. Excessive nitrogen triggers a massive explosion of lush, green leaves and wild runners at the direct expense of next year's flower buds. You can buy balanced, gentle feeds like Espoma Berry-tone Fertilizer from Walmart, which stimulate fresh summer leaf canopy growth. Gently work your granular feed into the top inch of soil and follow up with a deep watering.

Strawberries possess shallow root systems and need an inch of water per week, from rain or irrigation. Consistent moisture through July and August ensures the roots can easily access those soil nutrients, setting the stage for a spectacular spring showing.

4. Tackle Weeds & Check for Pests

Weeds like the same nutrients and water that strawberry plants need for growth. Strawberry plants have shallow roots that are easily overwhelmed by aggressive weeds chasing the same moisture and nutrients. Water deeply the evening before you plan to weed. Moist soil loosens its grip on invasive roots, allowing you to pull out stubborn weeds cleanly without dislodging nearby strawberry crowns.

Maintaining weed-free alleys between your fruit rows improves air circulation, which helps dry out morning dew and keeps devastating fruit rots at bay. The Fiskars Ergo Scratch Weeder from Walmart is a lovely ergonomic option to dig deep and pop out stubborn weeds by the roots without disturbing neighboring strawberry crowns.

Keep an eye out for common pests. June is prime time for strawberry root weevils, spittlebugs, and tarnished plant bugs, which manifest as chewed leaf margins or distorted, stunted foliage. Also check the undersides of leaves for powdery mildew or the speckling of spider mites. If you spot signs of mildew or mites, worry not. You can buy Bonide Captain Jack’s Neem Oil Ready-To-Use Spray from Home Depot to clear out summer spider mites, aphids, and preventative powdery mildew.

5. Lay Down Some Mulch

The final step in your June strawberry routine is to pick a snuggly mulch to spread around your June-bearing strawberry plants. Excellent organic options include clean straw, pine needles (which maintain the slightly acidic soil pH that strawberries love), or dry, shredded leaves. Mulching adds a natural barrier that locks in vital moisture, regulates soil temperatures during baking heat waves, and prevents fresh weed seeds from germinating in your clear rows. It also helps prevent soil-borne diseases.

Spread a two-inch (5cm) layer of mulch across the open spaces of your rows. Just don’t let it touch the crowns of the plants. This light summer mulching keeps the environment clean and structured. In fall, add an extra four inches (10cm) of straw over the tops of plants to insulate the crowns against freezing winter temperatures. You can buy HealthiStraw Garden Straw All-Natural Mulch from Amazon.

Shop Strawberry Care Essentials

Taking proper care of your strawberry patch corner is really easy with the right care kit. Make room in your garden shed for these high-quality, task-specific tools so your fruity perennials can keep coming back stronger (and fruitier) than ever – for many seasons to come. Treat your berry patch to these curated berry treats to make your summer renovation work a breeze.

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June is here and that means for most gardeners across the US, it’s time to transplant your tomatoes. Transplanting time is also the perfect moment to give your tomatoes a boost with their first dose of fertilizer for the season.

Maybe you live somewhere warm and you’ve already put your tomatoes in the ground or you live in the far north and you’re still waiting for that final frost date. Either way, whether you’ve already moved your plants into the garden or that’s on your to-do list for this weekend, now is the ideal time to fertilize tomatoes.

But before you start feeding your favorite vegetable, it’s important to understand exactly what kind of fertilizer your tomatoes need at this stage in their lifecycle. It’s also vital to apply fertilizer in the right way to ensure your plants get the biggest benefit and you don’t accidentally set back their growth.

I’ll walk you through how to fertilize tomatoes in June for a huge harvest this summer. Plus, I’ll reveal the biggest tomato feeding mistake that can potentially ruin your plants for the rest of the season.

Do You Have to Fertilize Tomatoes in June?

June is a great time to start fertilizing tomatoes. Most gardeners begin transplanting tomatoes outdoors between mid-May and mid-June. The exact date varies depending on your growing zone and last frost date in spring.

But by mid to late June, almost everywhere in the contiguous US should be free of frost, which means it’s safe to plant your tomatoes outdoors. When you transplant your tomatoes outdoors, you should also give them their first dose of fertilizer.

Benefits of Fertilizing Tomatoes in June

Fertilizing tomatoes in June at the time of transplanting or just after planting tomatoes outdoors gives them a head start that will benefit them for the rest of the summer. It helps them establish a healthy root system that will set them up for strong growth the rest of the summer. Fertilizing in June also provides them with a much-needed boost of nutrients that will help them transition from indoor growing to thriving outdoors in the garden.

If you started tomatoes from seed, by June, your seedlings have likely depleted all the nutrients that were stored in the original seed. Most seed starting mixes don’t include much fertilizer – if any at all – so by the time your seedlings are big enough to transplant, they are in need of more nutrients.

Fertilizing tomatoes in June, just after planting, replenishes your plants with necessary nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and other micronutrients they need to thrive. If your tomato seedlings are turning yellow, that’s a clear sign that they need a dose of fertilizer when you transplant them.

How to Fertilize Tomatoes in June

The easiest way to fertilize tomatoes in June is when you transplant them into the garden. There are two ways you can do this. The first way is to amend the soil in each individual hole. After you dig the hole for each tomato plant, add a dose of a slow-release organic fertilizer. My favorite tomato fertilizer is this one from Jobe’s on Amazon. Follow the instructions on the package for the proper dosage. Then mix the fertilizer into the surrounding soil and plant your tomato.

The other way to fertilize tomatoes at planting is to amend the soil in the entire area where you plan on putting your tomatoes. Again, use an organic slow-release granular fertilizer that will gently feed your plants all season. Follow the recommended dosage on the package for the size area you need to cover. Then use a rake or one of my favorite gardening tools, the Garden Weasel from Amazon, to incorporate the fertilizer into the soil and plant.

Water plants after you finish transplanting your tomatoes to help spread the nutrients to your tomatoes’ roots. Always water plants after fertilizing and transplanting to help them settle into the soil and prevent transplant shock.

If you’ve already transplanted your tomatoes into the garden and forgot to fertilize, don’t worry – it’s not too late. You can apply a side dressing of an organic granular fertilizer to your plants now to give them a boost. Simply sprinkle the recommended amount around each plant and gently use your fingers to mix it into the soil. Don’t get too aggressive with this or you could damage some of the roots. Next, water in the fertilizer to help it seep down into the roots.

Alternatively, you can use a liquid tomato fertilizer like this organic option from Espoma. Mix the recommended dosage for your number of plants into a watering can and drench your plants at the soil line. After the first dose of fertilizer for the season, keep reapplying your organic fertilizer of choice every two to four weeks or follow the directions for the specific plant food you use.

Don’t Make This Feeding Mistake

Feeding tomatoes in June can give them a huge boost that will serve them well during the peak of the summer growing season, but there’s a common fertilizing mistake that can actually set back plants. You should never fertilize plants during the heat of the day.

Fertilizing tomatoes in the middle of a hot June afternoon is a recipe for disaster. It can cause fertilizer burn on plants and scorch the foliage they need to capture the sun for photosynthesis to grow. Young plants, especially newly transplanted ones, are most at risk of fertilizer burn and leaf scorch.

The best time to fertilize plants is in the morning. This allows time for any excess water that may get on foliage to dry before the end of the day. That’s important because wet leaves invite many common tomato diseases. So give your plants a dose of fertilizer in the morning some day this month for an even bigger harvest of tasty tomatoes later on in the summer.

Tomato Fertilizing Essentials

If you’ve been staring at seed packets thinking you’ve missed your window, I’ve got good news: it’s absolutely not too late to start growing your own veggies. In fact, you can plant quite a few vegetables in June, especially if you choose the right fast-growing crops.

Yes, while spring often gets all the attention in gardening guides, early summer is where things really take off in much of the US. Soil temperatures are warm, daylight hours are long, and seedlings can establish quickly without the risk of late frosts in most regions, all of which is great for anyone hoping to start a vegetable garden.

At this point in the season, it’s less about perfection at this point and more about getting seeds in the ground and letting nature do its thing. If you’re gardening in USDA zones 3-6, then, you’ll want to focus on quick crops and varieties with shorter days to maturity, since your growing season is tighter. And in warmer USDA zones 7-10? Well, you’ve got plenty of time to succession sow and extend your harvest well into late summer and early fall.

Try Planting These Vegetables in June

If you want to plant vegetables in June, you need to do more than choose vegetables that just survive heat and longer days; you want them to thrive in them. Fast germination, quick harvest windows, and repeat picking crops are your best friends right now.

So if your garden beds are still empty or your containers are only half-planted, don’t worry. These are the vegetables to sow right now for a bumper harvest before summer is over...

1. Bush Beans

Best for USDA zones 3-10, bush beans are one of the easiest and most reliable summer crops. They germinate quickly in warm soil and can be harvested in as little as 50–60 days. And, in warmer zones, you can actually keep sowing every few weeks for a continuous crop right through summer.

Try something like these Early Bush Italian Bean Seeds from Burpee if you want a robust plant that yields early with zero support.

2. Zucchini

Few vegetables feel more like summer than zucchini (so long as you are based in USDA zones 3-10, of course). Plant something like Burpee's Best Squash Seeds directly into warm soil and you’ll often see harvest-ready fruit within 6-8 weeks.

Just be warned – once they start producing, they really don’t stop.

3. Radishes

If you are planting vegetables in June with almost instant gratification in mind, then radishes are the answer. Some varieties are ready in as little as 25–30 days, making them perfect for filling gaps in your garden or container beds.

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4. Cucumbers

Ideally suited to USDA zones 4-10, cucumbers love heat and long daylight hours. In June, the soil is more than warm enough for fast germination, and plants will quickly start vining.

Choose bush varieties if you’re short on space or growing in containers; something like these Bush Champion Cucumber Seeds from Burpee will work perfectly.

5. Lettuce

While traditional lettuce can struggle in peak summer heat, loose-leaf and heat-resistant varieties do much better. If you are based in USDA zones 3-9, in fact, they are great vegetables to plant in June, so long as you sow in partial shade and keep well watered for continuous picking.

Naturally, the Heatwave Blend Lettuce Seeds from Burpee knows how to keep its cool when things get hot, hot, hot.

6. Carrots

Carrots might be slower than other crops on this list, but June sowing still works beautifully. In warmer regions, choose shorter varieties for quicker harvests, and keep soil consistently moist to aid germination.

Bag yourself a packet of The Old Farmer's Almanac Heirloom Carrot Seeds and get sowing.

7. Basil

Basil is one of the easiest and most rewarding herbs to grow in summer, and June is actually a prime time to sow it in most US regions. It thrives in warm soil and plenty of sunlight, making it perfect for containers, raised beds, or a sunny kitchen garden.

Sow seeds (like Seed Needs Basil Seeds) directly once temperatures are consistently warm, or start indoors and transplant if your season is shorter. Regular harvesting encourages bushier growth, and the more you pick, the more it produces. Just keep it well watered, as basil will quickly wilt in dry heat but usually bounces back fast.

8. Pumpkin

Pumpkins might feel like a crop you should have planted months ago, but June is actually a brilliant shout if you want yours ready for picking come October 31st. They need space, sunshine, and a long growing season, but they’re surprisingly forgiving once established.

Sow seeds directly into mounds or large garden beds, or choose compact varieties if you’re short on space. In warmer USDA zones (6–10), planting in June can still easily lead to a full harvest by autumn, just in time for Halloween and seasonal cooking.

The Jack O Lantern Pumpkin Seeds from Burpee are best for carving.

Shop Vegetable Growing Essentials:

With the right crops, you can still plant vegetables in June. In fact, a few seed packets, some warm soil, and a bit of patience are all you need to turn an empty patch into a productive kitchen garden before summer even thinks about winding down.

Ready, set, grow!

You’ve likely seen all the stories about sprinkling baking soda on compost to supposedly sweeten your homegrown tomatoes. But does it actually work? Well, we hate to bust a good myth, but the truth is that it could kill your plants. There is, however, a genius use for baking soda that will help your tomato plants grow strong and healthy. Ready for the facts? Let’s get into it!

Does Baking Soda Sweeten Tomatoes?

The idea behind using baking soda to grow sweeter tomatoes is that this pantry staple is naturally alkaline, so adding it to the compost will reduce the acidity of your crop. In real life, that simply doesn’t happen. Sprinkling bicarbonate of soda onto soil around tomato plants won't affect the taste of the fruit.

It could, however, do a lot of harm. Tomatoes naturally prefer to grow in slightly acidic soil and if conditions become too alkaline, plants are unable to take up some nutrients, and that can cause leaves to yellow. What’s more, baking soda is a salt so using too much of it can stunt plants, cause them to wilt, and even kill them.

So the answer is a resounding no. Don’t use baking soda on tomato plants in an attempt to grow sweeter fruit. It doesn’t affect the taste and you could kill your plants. If you have the slightest concern about the pH of your soil, use a Soil Test Kit such as this from Amazon, and find out exactly what you’re dealing with before you do anything to amend it.

What Does Sweeten Tomatoes?

The sweetness of tomatoes is mostly down to the variety, and how much sun the plants get. Super-sweet cultivars are usually cherry, grape or baby plum tomatoes, as these have a higher concentration of sugars. The amount of sunshine also has a say, as plants photosynthesize sunlight to produce carbohydrates that convert to natural sugars. It’s not so much that more sun grows sweeter tomatoes, but that an absence of sun results in a blander taste. If a tomato is to develop its optimal flavour, the plant needs to be basking in a minimum of six hours of sunshine a day.

Another factor that affects how tasty your tomatoes are is the overall health of your plants. The first step in growing flourishing tomato plants is to pick a variety that's well suited to the conditions you’re growing them. Choose the exact right cultivar for your situation, whether that's a windowsill pot, a patio container or a veggie patch, and you’re already halfway to the tastiest toms in town.

How Can I Use Baking Soda to Help My Tomatoes Thrive?

While baking soda doesn’t help a jot to sweeten tomatoes, it’s incredibly effective at preventing fungal diseases in tomato plants. So effective, in fact, that it’s recommended as a preventative by the US Department of Agriculture.

The magic formula is to mix a heaped tablespoon of baking soda with a level teaspoon of vegetable oil, stir in a squirt of liquid dish soap, then dilute with a gallon of water. Pour into a simple plastic spray bottle such as this from Amazon and spray onto leaves every 7-14 days. The solution works by increasing the pH of the leaf surfaces which makes it more difficult for fungal spores to survive.

Ensuring good airflow around your plants, watering the soil rather than the foliage, and being able to recognise common tomato diseases so you can take swift action before they spread, will also help.

Does Baking Soda Deter Pests as Well as Disease?

Baking soda irritates soft-bodied pests such as slugs, snails and ants so, if you’re growing tomatoes in pots or grow bags, you can sprinkle some on the ground around them to deter these critters.

However, ants are rarely a problem on tomato plants and their presence can actually be helpful, alerting you to an aphid infestation. If you spot ants crawling on the leaves or stems, they’re likely feeding on the sweet liquid that aphids secrete. And aphids do damage tomato plants. Have a close look at the undersides of the leaves and if you find aphids, apply neem oil such as this from Amazon.

Dilute the neem oil according to the instructions and only spray in the evening once plants are out of the sun to avoid scorching.

Ants may also bore into splitting and over-ripe tomatoes, but it’s far easier to simply water more consistently and pick your toms more regularly than it is to control the ants. And if you really don’t want ants on your tomato plants, then a good smear of petroleum jelly – yes, the basic stuff you smear on chapped lips that you can buy for less than $4 on Amazon – around the main stem is a much more effective barrier than baking soda.

While slugs and snails do love to snack on young tomato seedlings and will happily snaffle up fruit that sits on the soil, they don’t often trouble mature plants. If you find they’re a problem then there are better ways to deal with them than using baking soda. Sluggo, available from Amazon, is based on iron phosphate which occurs naturally in soil, and is safe to use around pets and other wildlife. Or simply use a natural treat that these critters adore even more as bait, then rehome the pests far away from your tomato plants. I find that using cucumber slices to deal with a slug problem is the most effective method of all.

What Works Way Better With Tomatoes Than Baking Soda?

If you want to grow tastier, healthier tomatoes and enjoy an abundant harvest, the single best thing you can do – after the basics of sunshine, consistent watering and weekly feeding with a liquid fertilizer such as Espoma Organic Tomato Food, available from Amazon – is to plant basil alongside.

Using basil as a companion plant for tomatoes has a number of proven benefits: it helps tomato plants grow stronger roots and respond faster to stress such as pests and disease; and it attracts pollinators and deters pests. That all combines to increase tomato yield by around 20%. And guess what? Planting basil makes tomatoes taste better, too. Yes, the holy grail of more delicious tomatoes – and that's a fact, backed up by research from the University of Florida.

While we all love a TikTok gardening hack, sometimes it's better to stick to science.

SUMMARY

• Baking soda doesn’t sweeten homegrown tomatoes.
• An excess of baking soda can harm and even kill tomato plants.
• A diluted solution of baking soda, vegetable oil and dish soap is effective at helping to prevent fungal disease on tomato plants.
• Baking soda can act as a deterrent to slugs, snails and ants, but there are more effective ways to deal with these pests.
• Planting basil alongside tomatoes is the best way to increase and improve your crop.

By June, many of us are spending more time admiring our container gardens than tending to them. Pots overflowing with petunias, calibrachoa, herbs, and tomatoes are one of the easiest ways to add color and interest to a yard, patio, or balcony, and yet...

Well, and yet as temperatures climb, they can also become incredibly thirsty. Unlike plants growing in the ground, container plants have a limited amount of soil available to them, which means they dry out much faster – making them especially needy during hot spells.

If you've ever found your containers looking limp and wilted by the afternoon despite watering them the day before, though, you're certainly not alone. Sometimes, keeping them hydrated just isn't enough; rather, it's about watering at the right time of day and using the right technique.

The Best Time To Water Container Plants

Timing is everything, especially when it comes to potted plants. And, according to Gardeners' World presenter Monty Don, the best time to water your container-clad beauties is early in the morning, before the sun has had a chance to heat up the soil and foliage.

"Particularly if they're in a container so they do need watering much more often than normal," he explained. "In fact, every day when it's as hot as this and, if you can, the best time to water your container is early morning before the sun warms up."

For most gardeners, that means aiming to water sometime between 6 a.m. and 9 a.m., depending on your climate and local temperatures. Watering during the cooler part of the day gives plants time to absorb moisture before the heat arrives, helping them cope better with the stress of hot afternoons.

If an early start isn't realistic, Monty recommends waiting until the evening rather than watering during the hottest part of the day.

"If you can't get it done early in the morning, don't do it during the middle of the day – wait till the evening. Basically, when it's cool."

Midday watering isn't necessarily harmful (although it can result in scorching, depending on the weather), but it's often less effective. High temperatures and intense sunlight can increase evaporation, meaning less moisture reaches the roots where plants need it most.

Shop Watering Essentials:

if you're going to put in the effort to figure out the best time to water your container garden, you should also know that how you water can have a huge impact on the health of your plants.

Now, many gardeners make the mistake of giving containers a quick splash every day. While this dampens the soil surface, it doesn't encourage roots to grow deeper into the pot where moisture lasts longer.

"The rule of watering is always the same – soak, don't sprinkle," Monty says, which basically means you should water slowly and thoroughly at the base of the plant until water begins to drain from the holes at the bottom of the container.

"Water directly to the roots of the soil or the compost and go on until the water is running out of the bottom of the container," Monty explains, noting that this deep watering approach ensures the entire root ball is moistened, helping plants become more resilient during periods of heat and drought.

There is no real hard and fast rule when it comes to how much water your container plants will need; check the soil and see how dry it is to figure things out (although remember that smaller containers and hanging baskets may dry out much more quickly).

Once you know the best time to water your container garden, life is easy; just soak them when it's cooler and wait for your pots to gift you a colorful, and productive display right through the hottest days of summer. Win!

Picking out a Halloween pumpkin from a store or farm is such fun, so just imagine how exciting it will be to grow your own! And early June is the exact right moment to sow seed if you want your pumpkins to mature just in time to carve jack o’lanterns for 31 October.

Growing pumpkins for Halloween is straightforward, even if you’re a beginner gardener, and everything you need to know to get great results is right here. You can direct sow seeds straight into the ground where your plants are to grow, too, so there’s no faffing around with hardening off seedlings. And while it’s true that pumpkins are typically big plants, there are compact varieties small enough to grow in any garden, even in a pot.

As long as you prepare the planting hole properly, you’re diligent about watering and feeding, and not dead-set on growing record-breakingly big fruit, then it’s fine for vines to trail over gravel or hard surfaces rather than soil, too – so you don’t need to give up too much garden space.

And just wait till you see those first pumpkins starting to swell – you’ll be as happy as a kid out trick or treating! Ready to grow your own pumpkin for Halloween? Here’s what to do…

1. Choose Your Pumpkin Variety

These are my recommendations for the best pumpkin varieties to grow at home.

Best Pumpkin for Easy Carving

The classic variety to grow to carve jack o’lanterns is – you guessed it! – ‘Jack O Lantern’. This is a reliable grower and you can expect good-sized, well-rounded vibrant orange fruit of around 18-24 pounds. The vine grows 12-18 inches tall and spreads to 72 inches, and takes 110 days to mature. The skin is straightforward to carve and the flesh is super-tasty in a pumpkin pie, so don’t throw away what you scoop out.

Best Pumpkin For a Fun Jack o'Lantern

This ghostly pale variety is ‘Lumina’ and they’re fun to paint as well as carve. Or why not press a few flowers over the summer then glue them onto the pumpkin skin for beautiful table decor? 'Lumina' pumpkins are smaller, weighing around 10lb, and faster to grow, maturing in 80-90 days. This vine also grows 12-18 inches tall and spreads to 72 inches, and has tasty flesh.

Best Pumpkin for a Small Garden or a Pot

‘Cherokee Bush’ has a bushier habit, growing 14-24 inches high and, though vines spread to 48-58 inches, it doesn’t sprawl like some other varieties. That makes it an excellent pumpkin to grow in a pot, though it’s going to need to be a big container such as this resin half-barrel planter from Lowe’s. If you’re growing a few plants, then a cheaper option is to use fabric grow bags such as these from Amazon, or a small raised bed like this, also from Amazon. Whatever you choose to grow it in, capacity needs to be a minimum of 15 gallons, preferably more.

Maturing in 100-110 days, ‘Cherokee Bush’ grows lots of smaller pumpkins around 5-8 pounds, and the yellow flesh is tasty in a pie.

Best Pumpkin for Unusual Fall Decor

‘Sanchez’ has wonderfully lumpy skin so it’s a super witchy, warty addition to Halloween decor. Pumpkins grow to 4-6 inches across but you’ll get plenty as this vine grows to 12-18 inches high and spreads 120-144 inches. It matures in 95-105 days.

With long vines and small fruit, ‘Sanchez’ can also be grown vertically in a raised bed planter with a sturdy trellis such as this from Amazon. You’ll need to tie in the vine to the trellis – cut-to-length reusable Velcro plant ties, available from Amazon, are the easiest option. You may also need to support the fruit, and retired pantyhose is the very best material for this job!

2. Pick a Sheltered Sunny Spot

Pumpkin plants need warmth and sun, so choose a spot that gets at least 6 hours of sunshine a day and is sheltered from cold winds.

Make sure you have enough room for the vines to spread, though it’s fine to coil them around and keep them in place with bamboo canes pushed into the ground. Pumpkin vines do put down additional roots wherever the stems touch soil, to access additional nutrients and water, but as long as you provide a good supply of those, it’s okay to let them stretch over gravel or paving. Just watch that water doesn’t pool beneath or stems and leaves get scorched by the heat from paving, though sliding a plank of wood underneath easily solves such issues.

3. Prepare the Soil

Pumpkins are hungry plants and while they need plenty of moisture, they hate to sit in soggy soil. Ensure your soil is both fertile and well-draining by digging a hole that’s around a foot wide and deep and mixing compost – homemade or shop-bought such as this Life Cycle Organic Compost from Amazon – into the soil.

If you’re growing your pumpkins in a pot or planter, fill with any multi-purpose potting mix such as Back to the Roots All-Purpose Potting Mix, available from Amazon.

4. Sow Seeds

Now we’re in June, the soil temperature is warm enough to sow seeds directly into the ground. Pumpkin seeds are big and easy to handle, so simply push them into the soil, around an inch deep. They do have a tendency to rot, so sowing them on their side will help prevent this.

Sow two or three seeds for each plant you want to grow, keep moist and, once they sprout in a week or so, carefully pull out the weakest so you’re left with the strongest seedling. Do pay attention to planting distances recommended on the seed packet as these are big plants.

Pumpkin seeds need temperatures of at least 60°F to germinate so, if you live in a colder zone or have an exposed garden, staking plastic cloches such as these from Amazon over helps keep conditions cozy. You can make your own by upcycling 2-litre clear plastic bottles, cutting off the bases and pushing your homespun cloches into the soil.

5. Protect From Pests

Slugs and snails love to snack on juicy young pumpkin plants so because you’re sowing directly outdoors, you need to have some protection in place. I find the most effective method is to provide food that these slimy critters like even more, and set out cucumber slices to catch them.

Squash vine borers and cucumber beetles are also a threat, and the best way to guard against these is a floating plant cover such as this from Amazon. You’ll need to remove this once your plant starts flowering to allow bees to pollinate the blooms, so fruit can set.

6. Water Well

Unsurprisingly, these big plants need plenty of water. It’s important to water the soil rather than getting leaves wet, so a handy aid is to sink a plant pot into the ground alongside the spot you sowed your seeds. Direct the hose into this when watering and moisture will be delivered straight to where it’s needed most. This also helps you know just where the plant center is, as that can get confusing once there's a lot of foliage.

Mulching the soil will help to conserve moisture and keeps out weeds that will compete for water. Use homemade compost or a natural mulch such as Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch, available from Amazon, and keep it away from the central stem to avoid rotting.

7. Feed Plants in a Container

If roots have restricted access to nutrients in a planter, then they’ll need feeding. The time to start feeding is when you first spot baby pumpkins starting to swell at the base of flowers. Don’t worry if you get a few flowers first that don’t turn into pumpkins. Pumpkin plants grow male and female flowers. It’s the male flowers that appear first on long thin stems, followed by female blooms closer to the vine – and it’s these females that will grow into pumpkins once bees have transferred pollen over from the male flowers.

Feed with a water-soluble liquid plant food that’s high in potassium, such as this pumpkin fertilizer from Amazon, every two weeks. There’s no need to feed pumpkin plants growing in the ground as long as you prepared the soil well, and aren’t trying to grow enormous fruits.

8. Care for the Fruit

Pumpkins sitting directly on damp soil are likely to rot, so place a piece of wood, a tile or a nest of straw beneath them if necessary. These fruit need plenty of sun to ripen so, once pumpkins reach full size, remove any leaves that are shading them.

9. Know When Your Pumpkins are Ready to Harvest

Your pumpkins are ready to harvest when their skin has lost its sheen and hardened, so press a fingernail into the skin to test: if you can scratch the fruit, leave it to ripen a while longer. Tap the fruit with your knuckles, too – a ripe pumpkin will sound hollow.

As long as you keep the stem intact when you harvest your pumpkin, it will keep well, so don't worry about harvesting early. Bring your homegrown pumpkins indoors to a sunny greenhouse or conservatory and let them cure for a couple of weeks, and the skin will harden further so they can be stored for up to six months.

And you know what that means, don't you? You can have homegrown pumpkins for Christmas as well as Halloween!

Lemon tree growth really takes off in June. As summer gets underway, the days are getting longer, the sun is more intense, and temperatures are starting to soar. Paying lemon trees a little extra attention during this period of accelerating growth is important.

The lemon tree care you provide now will lead to healthier foliage, better fruit development, and fewer problems later. It doesn’t take much to give trees a big boost at this point in the season.

Follow these easy June care tips for your lemon tree – and any other citrus you grow – and your branches will be full of juicy fruit in no time.

1. Move Potted Trees to Full Sun

Lemon trees thrive in full sun, especially during the active growing season. Full sun is necessary for healthy, strong growth, flower development, and fruit. If you grow a lemon tree in a pot, you have the flexibility to move it around to find the sun.

If you had your potted lemon tree indoors to stay warm during the dormant season, you should have started transitioning it outside in late spring. The exact timing depends on your local climate and weather, but generally, citrus trees should go outside after the danger of frost has passed and nighttime temperatures are around 50°F (10°C).

By June, your tree should be ready to move to a spot where it can soak up 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day. Once you’ve transitioned your plant by placing the pot outdoors for a few hours a day, find it a full sun spot for the rest of the summer. A heavy-duty plant caddy, like this one from Amazon, makes moving large pots much easier.

2. Water Deeply & Consistently

As temperatures rise in June, watering citrus trees becomes increasingly important. The soil dries out more quickly and your tree uses more water as it puts out new growth. So in June, it’s time to increase how much water you provide.

For in-ground lemon trees, focus on watering deeply once or twice a week. Deep watering encourages strong root growth and ensures the soil won’t dry out too quickly. Soil in pots dries out much more quickly, so you’ll likely need to water a container tree daily during this time of year. Check the soil in the pot and water as needed. It should stay consistently moist but not soggy.

Signs of underwatering in citrus trees include dry soil, curled leaves, and fruit dropping early. Signs you might be overwatering include yellowing leaves and soil that is wet or soggy rather than lightly moist. If you need to repot or refresh your potted tree’s soil, that’s a great time to mix in some water-storing crystals like these from Miracle-Gro. They help soil in potted plants stay at the proper moisture level.

3. Add Mulch

If you haven’t done so already, it’s time to add a layer of mulch around your lemon tree. A 2 to 4-inch (5-10 cm) layer of mulch helps keep moisture in the soil. Citrus trees grow best with consistent moisture. Mulch also stabilizes soil temperatures during the soaring summer heat. Finally, a good layer of mulch helps keep down weeds.

Replace or refresh any old mulch around your tree or add a layer of new mulch if you have never mulched before. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk of the tree. Moisture trapped against the trunk can lead to rot.

The best mulch to use is one that is organic and will naturally break down and add nutrients back into the soil. This organic mulch from the Home Depot is a great choice.

4. Fertilize for Summer Growth

You probably started feeding your lemon tree back in May, but if not then now is the time to start. Regular feeding helps your tree put out more new, strong growth. It also supports flower and fruit development to ensure you get the best possible harvest.

The simplest way to fertilize a lemon tree is to find a product specifically designed for citrus trees, like this one from Espoma. These fertilizers have nitrogen to promote new growth. Citrus trees also have a particular need for the micronutrients iron and magnesium.

How and when you feed your lemon tree depends on whether you use a liquid or slow-release fertilizer. The latter is best for in-ground trees, while liquid fertilizers work well for potted trees. In either case, follow the product’s instructions. Resist the urge to overfeed. Overfertilizing can damage roots or even reduce the fruit harvest by promoting foliage over flowering.

5. Watch for Pests

Summer is the time for your tree to thrive, but insects also thrive with the increased warmth and light. Inspect your tree regularly in June to catch and manage any common lemon pests early, before they become unmanageable and destructive.

Some typical pests of lemon trees are aphids, scale, mites, and citrus leaf miners. Look for the pests themselves, including on the undersides of leaves, as well as signs of pest damage. This could be sticky residue, curled leaves, sooty mold, or speckling on leaves.

A spray of water can usually dislodge pests and end a light infestation. You can also try neem oil or insecticidal soap, both of which are available from Amazon.

6. Thin Out Fruit Clusters

Depending on where you garden, you might already see fruit clusters on your lemon trees in June. While it’s fun to see all the potential new lemons, too many fruits can actually stress a tree. This is especially true for young trees and small potted trees. Branches holding big clusters of lemons now may break under the weight later as the lemons grow larger.

Thin out a few of the smallest lemons from any emerging clusters. In addition to protecting the branches, this will improve the quality of the remaining fruits. Thinning out citrus trees also provides more airflow, which reduces the risk of rot and other common lemon diseases.

June is one of the most important months of the year for lemon tree care. Regular water, fertilizer application, pest management, and fruit thinning will ensure your tree grows strong and healthy through the hottest part of the year, resulting in a good harvest of juicy, tasty fruits.

Growing beets is akin to conjuring rubies from the soil – both are valuable and unimaginably beautiful. Beets have a leg up over rubies, however, as these delicious roots are nutritious and way more accessible than precious gems.

Beets – also known as beetroot – are beloved for their deeply earthy roots and tender, flavorful greens, making them a versatile addition to everything from fresh salads and pickles to hearty stews and sautés. Native to the Mediterranean, where wild versions once grew along coastal salt marshes, beets have been cultivated for thousands of years for both their leaves and roots.

These popular root vegetables thrive in cool, sunny, and moderate growing conditions. Similar to growing carrots, beet seeds can be sown either in early spring for a summer crop or in late summer for a fall harvest. For anyone starting a vegetable garden, they’ll be blessed with a beautiful harvest of both vibrant roots and delectable greens. This combination of ease and culinary versatility makes beets a great crop for beginner and experienced growers alike.

Quick Beet Facts

What Is a Beet?

A beet is an enlarged root of the Beta vulgaris plant. It is a cool-season crop with many of its home garden varieties being grown for both its roots and edible leaves, making it a “two for one” vegetable. Beets are a member of the amaranth family and are adapted to cooler growing conditions.

Types of Beets

There are several main types of beets, each bred for a specific purpose.

• Garden or table beets are grown for eating and include familiar red, golden, white, and striped types used fresh, roasted, pickled, or juiced.
• Sugar beets are grown on a large scale for sugar production and have pale, high-sugar roots not usually used in home kitchens.
• Fodder or forage beets are bred as livestock feed, producing large, energy-rich roots.
• Leaf beets, commonly known as Swiss chard, are grown for their large, colorful leaves rather than their roots, even though they are the same species as garden beets.

Burpee has seeds in a kaleidoscope of beautifully colored and tasty varieties, from round ruby-red varieties to cylindrical shapes and multi-color mixes.

Planting Beets

Beets are most often grown from seeds, as they don't like being transplanted. A big, beautiful beet crop begins with care and attention to preparing the soil. As with carrots, a uniform soil will let your beets’ growth expand outward without impediment, creating smooth round or cylindrical roots. In the proper soil texture, beet seeds will germinate quickly.

The rest of the planting procedure is straightforward and easily completed in short time. In fact, the quick planting means you can plant a little row of beets every week or two, resulting in a prolonged and fruitful harvest.

When to Plant Beets

Beets are a cool-weather crop, and planting dates depend on one’s USDA zone. In southern US climates, beets can be grown all winter long, but do poorly in summer’s heat. In northern soils, beets shouldn't be planted until the soil temperature warms up to at least 40°F (4°C), usually around midspring. While they don’t fare well in summer, even in northerly locations, a second crop sown in late summer will produce a fall harvest.

Best Soil for Beets

Beets love soil types that are soft, rich, and easy to sink into – think loose and crumbly, something that lets roots grow round and smooth instead of twisted and tough. A sandy loam or well-worked garden bed with plenty of compost is ideal. Rocky or heavy clay soils lead to misshapen roots.

Aim for a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH, around 6.0 to 7.0, and keep the soil evenly moist but never soggy. Use a soil testing kit such as the MySoil Test Kit, available on Amazon, to pinpoint soil pH, allowing you to adjust accordingly. When the soil is right, beets practically do the rest themselves.

Light Requirements

Beets are happiest soaking up the sun, growing best with at least six hours of direct light each day. Full sun means faster growth, sweeter roots, and stronger greens. If full sun is not possible for you, beets will still grow decently in light shade. This is especially true in hot climates where a little afternoon shade can prevent stress. Otherwise, a sunny, open space will result in beautifully colored, richly flavored, and sturdy roots and leaves.

When choosing a planting site, be sure it is away from tall neighboring plants or structures such as a house or garden shed that cast long shadows. In cooler regions, a full sun spot also helps warm the soil more quickly in spring, helping you get your beet crop going sooner.

How to Plant Beets – Step by Step

Now that you’ve determined the right time of year to plant beets depending on your location, and have chosen a sunny spot, it’s time to plant your beet seeds!

1. Prepare the soil. Loosen soil to about 8–10 inches (20–25 cm) deep. Remove rocks and clumps, then mix in compost or well-rotted organic matter. A soil sifter, such as the Round Capacity Compost Sifter from Home Depot, can help remove larger items from the soil as you dig. Rake the soil surface so it is smooth. A level surface helps you sow the seeds evenly and helps them make good contact with the soil.
2. Sow the seeds. Sow beet seeds ½ inch (1.25 cm) deep and about 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart in rows spaced 12 inches (30 cm) apart. If you want a continuous supply, plant your beets in several plantings, about three weeks apart.
3. Cover and water. Gently cover seeds with soil, making sure the surface is level. Water lightly but thoroughly. A level surface ensures pools of water don’t remain.
4. Keep soil moist. Water regularly to keep soil evenly moist until seeds germinate, usually in 7–14 days if temperatures are between 55 and 75°F (13–24°C).
5. Thin seedlings. When plants are 2–3 inches (5–7.5 cm) tall, thin seedlings to 3–4 inches (7.5–10 cm) apart so roots have room to grow. Snip the seedlings rather than pulling them up because pulling will disturb the developing root systems of the plants still in the soil. Bonus – use the seedlings you’ve snipped to top your salad!
6. Mulch lightly and remove weeds. Add a thin layer of mulch to hold moisture and reduce weeds.
7. Water consistently. Consistency with soil moisture is key to growing most any root crop. Regular watering helps prevent tough or woody roots.

Beet Care

Beets may be an easy-care crop, but paying attention to the basics results in a far superior crop to one that is left to its own devices.

How Often to Water Beets

Beets’ water requirements depend on their maturity, soil conditions and the climate. In cool spring and fall temperatures, the soil dries slowly, especially in humid areas. Small, young plants won’t require as much water as those close to maturity; however, their relatively shallow roots may need water a bit more frequently until they reach the moisture reserves deeper in the soil.

Generally speaking, a good watering schedule for beets provides an inch (2.5 cm) of water per week. This is a combination of rainwater and supplemental irrigation. If you receive a half inch (1.5 cm) of rain, you only have to provide an additional half inch (1.5 cm) of irrigation water. Use a rain gauge to measure the amounts of rainfall and irrigation water your garden receives. This simple AcuRite gauge from Amazon does the job without spending much.

The watering schedule for beets should be less about assigned days of the week and more concerned with providing consistently moist soil. It never hurts to stick your finger in the ground to feel for moisture. Overwatering beets can be just as detrimental as underwatering this thirsty crop.

Fertilizing Beets

Beets are not heavy feeders, but they benefit from nutrient-rich soil. About one week before planting, apply a general-purpose balanced fertilizer – ideally with an NPK of 10-10-10.

After that initial application, a lower-nitrogen product is best for fertilizing beets. These root vegetables need more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen to promote root growth. Choose something like 5-10-10 or 4-8-8. Cz Garden Organics' 5-10-10 Tomato & Vegetable Fertilizer is a good pick.

About 2–3 weeks after seedlings emerge, apply fertilizer along the row, about 3–4 inches (7.5–10 cm) away from plants. Use roughly 1 tablespoon per 10 feet (3 m) of row, then water well. A second fertilizer application may be necessary if growth seems slow or the soil is poor. Repeat once more about 4 weeks later using the same amount.

Note that boron is a necessary element for growing beets. Low levels of boron will cause black sunken spots on and in the root. Internal black spot can be prevented with ½ ounce of Borax per 100 square feet (14 g per 9 m²). For additional sources of boron, try this Opulent Boron liquid fertilizer.

Mulching Beets

Mulch around beet plants to retain moisture and suppress weeds. Water stress within the first six weeks of growth will lead to premature flowering and low yields.

Organic mulches such as straw, shredded leaves, untreated grass clippings, or compost work well, helping to keep the soil evenly moist and cool during warm weather.

How to Prune Beets

Beets require very little pruning, which is one reason they’re so easy for home gardeners to grow. In general, avoid cutting healthy leaves during the growing season because the tops are what feed the developing root.

The only routine “pruning” is cleaning up damaged or distressed foliage. If leaves become yellow, damaged, or diseased, snip them off at the base using clean scissors or pruners. This helps keep plants tidy and improves air circulation.

Harvesting Beets

Beets can be harvested at almost any stage, depending on how you plan to use them. Will you use beets and greens fresh in salads? Will you pickle the roots and sauté the greens? Will you juice the entire plant? Smaller roots tend to be sweeter and more tender, while larger beets are better suited to roasting, pickling, or storage.

Most varieties are ready to lift once the exposed shoulders reach around 1–3in (2.5–7.5cm) across.

To harvest beets, loosen the soil if necessary and pull the roots gently by hand, grasping them where the leaves meet the crown. Watering the bed a day before harvest can make lifting easier in dry conditions.

Young beet green leaves can be picked sparingly throughout the season, or the entire top can be removed once the root has been harvested.

Beets Care Calendar

Overwintering Beets

In mild climates, mature beets can be left in the ground over winter and harvested as needed. Protect roots from repeated freezing and thawing with a thick layer of straw, shredded leaves, or another organic mulch. In colder regions, harvest and store roots before the ground freezes solid.

Storing Beets

When harvesting, you should have a plan for what you’ll do with the beets afterward. Beet greens will last only a few days in the refrigerator. Beet roots will remain usable for only a few weeks unless stored in sand or sawdust in a cool place, such as a root cellar. When picking beets, try to eat some of them fresh for the best flavor and highest nutritional content.

Propagating Beets

Beets are typically propagated via seeds. Most gardeners purchase beet seed from a nursery, garden center, or home store, but it's possible to harvest your own seeds. To do this, you must first wait until the beet tops have flowered and then turned brown before attempting to harvest. Then cut 4 inches (10 cm) off the top of the beet plant and store these in a cool, dry area for two to three weeks to allow the seeds to ripen. The seed can then be stripped from the dried foliage by hand or placed in a bag and pounded. The chaff can be winnowed, and the seeds plucked out.

A fun project is to attempt to regrow a beet plant from the top cut off of a grocery store root. The tops will regrow, but you won't get a whole new root. Simply place the beet top in a shallow dish, just covering it with water. After a few days, new leaves will have begun to form, and you can harvest these once they are big enough. Change water frequently to avoid rot.

Beet Problems

Beets are usually a trouble-free crop, but gardeners can run into certain common garden pests and diseases on occasion, especially in warm or wet conditions. While some pests and diseases affect leaves, it is not a huge issue for root production unless the damage becomes so severe as to kill the entire set of leaves.

For sap-sucking pests such as aphids, an insecticidal soap spray, like Bonide's ready-to-use spray from Amazon, can help keep populations under control.

Good spacing, crop rotation, well-drained soil, and keeping leaves dry when watering go a long way toward preventing most beet problems.

Development Problems

• Bolting – Beets may bolt in response to temperature fluctuations or heat stress, causing the plant to flower and reducing root growth.
• Wilting or falling beet plants – Sudden wilting may indicate insect damage, root rot or other diseases affecting the plant's roots and foliage.
• Small or misshapen beets – Usually caused by overcrowding, insufficient sunlight, poor soil conditions, or nutrient imbalances that restrict root development.
• Black heart (boron deficiency) – A nutrient issue that causes dark, cracked centers.

Common Pests

• Leaf miners – Tiny larvae tunnel through leaves, leaving winding white trails. Leaves may look blotchy or papery.
• Armyworms – Can eat tender young transplants to the ground and defoliate older plants.
• Flea beetles – Make tiny “shot holes” in young leaves, slowing early growth.
• Aphids – Cluster on the undersides of leaves, sucking sap and spreading disease.
• Cutworms – Chew through young seedlings at soil level.
• Root-knot nematodes – Yellowing foliage, poor growth, and swollen roots can all be signs of root-knot nematode damage.
• Slugs and snails – Feed on leaves, especially in damp gardens.

Common Diseases

• Cercospora leaf spot – Causes small purple or brown spots on leaves that can merge and kill foliage.
• Downy mildew – Creates gray or fuzzy growth on leaf undersides, often in cool, wet weather.
• Powdery mildew – White, dusty coating on leaves during warm, dry spells.
• Root rot – Happens in soggy or poorly drained soil; roots become soft and discolored.
• Curly top – Causes curled, stunted foliage and distorted roots, and is spread by beet leafhoppers.
• Southern blight – A soil-borne fungal disease that causes yellowing, wilting and root rot, often identified by white thread-like fungal growth around the base of plants.
• Mosaic virus – Spread by aphids, causes yellow mottling and pale blotches on leaves, sometimes leading to stunted growth

Growing Beets in Containers

When growing beets in containers, choose a variety that will not grow to an overly large diameter. You want plenty of room in the pot to grow a healthy crop, so choose one with a minimum depth of 6 inches (15 cm). The Eclipse Round Planter for indoor and outdoor use from The HC Companies via Amazon is ideal.

Fill the pot with potting soil amended with organic matter to improve drainage and fertility. Then, plant the seeds ½ to ¾ of an inch (1.5–2 cm) deep and keep the soil lightly moist. It will take 7–12 days for seedlings to emerge, which should be thinned once they are 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) tall.

Position your potted beets in a full sun position and harvest them when grown in the ground.

Growing Beets Indoors

Yes, beets can be grown indoors, especially smaller or round varieties that don’t need deep soil to form good roots. They need bright light – ideally 12–14 hours a day from a sunny window or grow lights – and containers at least 6–10 inches (20–25 cm) deep so roots can develop properly.

Use loose, well-draining potting mix, keep soil evenly moist, and thin seedlings so each plant has room to grow.

While indoor beets may grow a bit slower than outdoor ones, they can still produce tasty roots and tender greens right in your kitchen or sunroom.

Companion Planting Beets

As with most other crops, companion planting beets helps improve success and yields. This might be through adding nitrogen to the soil, providing shade, and encouraging beneficial insects. Good beet companion plants include:

• Broccoli
• Brussels sprouts
• Bush beans
• Cabbage
• Cauliflower
• Chard
• Cilantro
• Dill
• Garlic
• Kohlrabi
• Lettuce
• Onions
• Shallots
• Tomatoes

However, not every plant makes a good companion plant for beets. Bad plot neighbors include:

• Carrots
• Field mustard
• Wild mustard
• Pole beans

Frequently Asked Questions

Beet Growing Essentials

• Looking for seeds? Burpee has many to choose from, including different shapes and colors and even multi-color mixes.
• Beets grow best in soil that is slightly acidic to neutral pH. Use a soil testing kit such as the MySoil Test Kit, available on Amazon to pinpoint soil pH.
• For smooth and round beets, remove rocks and clumps from the soil with the Round Capacity Compost Sifter from Home Depot.
• If growing beets in containers, provide plenty of depth for growth, the Eclipse Round Planter from The HC Companies on Amazon.

There are a few things you learn quickly when you marry into a family like mine. One is that my mother-in-law is kooky in the best possible way; she is a crystal healer, runs her own holistic and complementary therapy training centre, keeps tarot decks coming out of every drawer like they’ve been multiplying in the dark, and consults psychics whenever she needs help making a major life decision.

When she started talking about installing a copper pyramid in her veg bed, then, I didn’t even blink. I did, however, have a few questions – or, rather, just the one question: why?

As it turns out, the decision was entirely driven by the idea of electroculture. Sitting somewhere between ancient wisdom, modern pseudoscience, and very committed curiosity, the basic theory is that plants can benefit from atmospheric energy, and that certain structures – often copper coils or pyramid shapes inspired by the Great Pyramid of Giza – can act as passive antennas.

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Copper, being highly conductive, is believed by proponents to help “collect” or amplify this energy and channel it into the soil, supposedly improving plant vitality and growth. And, keen to put the theory to the test, my mother-in-law set to work constructing a copper pyramid to pop one of her raised beds.

It is worth pointing out that this is not a small structure. It is worth pointing out, too, that next to it sits another raised bed without a copper pyramid; just the usual mix of soil, seeds, hope, and compost. If you were trying to run a controlled experiment, you could hardly ask for a neater setup.

Now, I want to be very clear that, while I love the concept of lunar gardening, witchy herbs, and (ahem) birth month trees, the majority of my gardening decisions are driven by soil structure, sunlight, water, spacing, and my husband (who, as I have mentioned before, is an RHS-trained professional gardener). I also understand coincidence; plants are variable, seasons are unpredictable, and sometimes one bed just takes off while another lags behind for reasons that have nothing to do with copper geometry.

And yet...

Well, and yet the pyramid bed has consistently outperformed the non-pyramid bed. The vegetables are bigger, the leaves are lusher, germination has been more reliable. Even the general “vibe” of the plants (yes, I realise this is a scientifically meaningless metric, but hey, emotionally accuracy is key!) feels more enthusiastic.

Meanwhile, the neighboring bed is... fine, I guess. It is doing a perfectly respectable job. However, the vegetables it produces lack the va-va-voom of its pyramid-topped rival, and while I could try to come up with a reason for this (maybe it gets slightly less light? Maybe the soil is ever so slightly different? Maybe it really is just “the energy”?

Personally, I have been quietly working on another theory, which is absolutely not focused on whether electroculture “works” in any provable sense, but how it changes the way you pay attention to a garden.

I suspect a shiny copper pyramid is likely to make you a) tend to your plants a little more lovingly, and b) notice everything more closely – the way plants respond to structure, to placement, to small shifts in environment. It turns an ordinary raised bed into something you observe almost like a living experiment.

Gardening, at its core, already asks a kind of faith from us. We put tiny seeds into soil and trust that something will happen. In that sense, my mother-in-law’s copper pyramid doesn’t feel entirely out of place. It is just a more dramatic expression of the same impulse: to believe that unseen forces might be at work in the soil.

And whether those forces are electrical, symbolic, psychological, or simply the result of good compost and a favourable microclimate? All magic, in my opinion. A thriving garden is always a gift, no matter who sends it our way.

Summer is almost here, which means that your tomato plants are probably due for their first pruning. As May turns into June and temperatures climb, newly transplanted tomatoes start to make big leaps in terms of growth. They relish the longer days and warmer nights of late spring and early summer.

But as tomatoes grow, they can start to get a little bit out of control. They grow quickly and put out lots of suckers that direct energy away from fruit production. When this begins, it’s time to start pruning tomato plants. Making some simple cuts now will keep your tomatoes tidy – which helps prevent disease – and it will also increase your yields.

Before you pick up the pruners, there are a few basics you need to learn to ensure you make the right cuts. Not all tomatoes require pruning. Plus, cutting in the wrong spot can actually ruin your chances of a big harvest. Here’s how to start pruning tomatoes and why right now is the most important time to make the cut.

Do All Tomatoes Require Pruning?

Not all tomatoes are created equal. There are two main types of tomatoes: determinate and indeterminate. Determinate tomatoes are bush-type tomatoes, which means they stop growing at a certain height. They are much shorter and more compact than indeterminate varieties and they don’t require pruning.

Indeterminate tomatoes can reach up to 6 feet (2 m) or higher, if you let them keep growing. They put out lots of suckers that divert energy and nutrients away from fruit production. These vining types of tomatoes produce best when you prune them. This directs the plant’s resources towards growing lots of big, juicy tomatoes. Pruning also makes fruit ripen faster, especially at the end of the season.

Benefits of Pruning Tomatoes

A bigger harvest isn’t the only benefit of pruning indeterminate tomatoes. Making smart cuts can also keep plants healthier.

Tomatoes can quickly produce lots of branches full of leaves that become crowded. Pruning away suckers and unnecessary branches improves airflow, which helps prevent common tomato diseases.

Keeping plants tidy by pruning them regularly also makes it easier to spot common tomato pests. There are less leaves where hungry tomato hornworms and annoying aphids can hide.

Best Time to Start Pruning Tomatoes

The best time to start pruning tomatoes is once plants are at least 12 inches (30 cm) tall. Depending on where you live and when you started your tomatoes, the exact date will vary. But many gardeners’ tomatoes pass this threshold in early June. So now is the perfect time to pick up your pruners – our team of gardening experts swear by these Felco pruners – or use your fingers to start pinching off suckers.

New sprouts show up fast, so you need to continue pruning away tomato suckers every week or two throughout the rest of the growing season. Luckily, pruning opens up the structure of your tomato plants and makes it easier to see suckers as they emerge. Snap or cut off suckers before they get too big. It’s best to remove them when they’re under 2 inches (5 cm) long. This handy thumb knife from Amazon makes plucking suckers easy – and kind of fun!

Prune tomato plants in the morning, but don’t make any cuts if plants are wet. This can invite disease. If your plants show any signs of disease, be sure to sterilize your pruners between each plant or else you risk spreading the problem to other plants.

Even if your tomato plants aren’t 12 inches (30 cm) tall yet, there may still be some pruning you need to do. Tomatoes that are producing flowers, but are under the 12-inch (30 cm) threshold require pruning as well.

Pluck off any tomato flowers that appear on plants under 1 foot (30 cm) tall. If you leave them, they may develop into normal fruits. But at this point in the growth cycle, letting a small plant bloom and produce a fruit is only going to sap your tomato of energy it will need later. Wait until your tomatoes hit the 1-foot (30 cm) mark before allowing flowers to progress into fruit.

Don’t Make This Pruning Mistake

Pruning tomatoes is quick, simple, and – honestly – kind of fun to do. It’s a great time to check on your plants’ health, look for any unwanted bugs, and train your tomatoes to grow big and strong. But it’s also easy to get carried away when pruning and end up making a cut you shouldn’t have. And there’s one tomato pruning mistake in particular that can ruin your harvest for the rest of the summer.

Do not cut off the top of the main stem. Only prune off the suckers that emerge in the joints between the side branches and the main stem. If you accidentally top your tomato plant at this point in the season, you will severely cut down on your yield of fruit for the rest of the summer. All of the other branches come off of this stem and that’s where your tomato fruits emerge and develop.

However, if you do accidentally top your tomato, you can allow a couple of suckers to develop and turn those into new main stems. They probably won’t be as strong as the original main stem, but they will still produce plenty of fruit.

Tomato Pruning Essentials

Garden paths are fundamentally utilitarian, designed to get us from A to B without trampling our favorite borders. Yet, all too often, they can be a source of frustration, seeming to become magnets for stubborn weeds. We can fight a never-ending battle with paving cracks, constantly scraping out dirt, or filling gaps with sterile gravel and sand. But your walkways hold untapped design potential, waiting to be transformed from cold, stone channels into dynamic, living expressions of color and fragrance.

If you feel like swapping out heavy weeding for a sensory-rich herb path, then you’ll love these resilient plants. By turning ordinary paths into living carpets of sturdy, creeping herbs, you create a garden path that is both lovely and transformative. These low-growing groundcovers are capable of wafting sweet vanilla, crisp mint, or warm apple scent into the air every time you take a step. You can use them to soften hard edges, inject character, and suppress opportunistic weeds with ease.

The true wonder of an herbal path is its interactive nature. Unlike delicate ornamental flowers that must be admired from a distance, these rugged herbs are built for impact – indeed, the more you step on them, the better they smell. So, instead of fighting weeds or trying to grow grass in the cracks, why not plant these pathway herbs to release waves of scent with every step? Meet the walkable herbs that help you banish weeds and turn a simple stroll into a multi-sensory experience.

Set-and-Forget Plants for a Herb Path

With garden paths, there’s always the question of what to do with the gaps between stones or pavers. You can constantly spray or pull weeds, try to grow grass where it doesn’t really want to be, or just fill the spaces with gravel or sand. But fragrant herbs that act like sturdy groundcovers give you an easy win, and they aren’t tricky to introduce or maintain.

Transforming a stone walkway into a sensory-rich herbal path begins with assessing your structure. Whether you are dealing with a pre-existing flagstone walkway or concrete pavers, or constructing a new stepping-stone trail over gravel and sand, these DIY garden path herbs thrive in microclimates where traditional turf grass fails. The stone absorbs daytime solar heat, radiating it back down into the root zones, while the narrow gaps minimize moisture evaporation.

To set these living groundcovers up in USDA hardiness zones 4-9, just make sure those gaps and cracks are good for planting. Before inserting plugs, remove existing weeds, roots, and debris from the joints to a depth of 3-4 inches (8-10cm). Where you can, add a light gritty soil blend, such as a mix of organic compost and sharp sand, fine gravel or perlite, such as Espoma Organic Perlite from Amazon, to ensure ideal drainage within tight paving gaps and cracks ahead of planting and sowing.

Don’t be afraid to play with layouts and herbal combinations. You can lean into a manicured, modern minimalist style by planting a single uniform species around geometric pavers, or embrace an organic cottagecore vibe by intermingling several contrasting textures and tones. Small cell plugs are easier to wedge snugly into tight paving joints. Water deeply until plant roots anchor firmly beneath the heavy pavers and they are ready to withstand your very regular visits.

1. Woolly Thyme

Many types of thyme grow low and are sturdy, but woolly thyme (Thymus pseudolanuginosus) is ideal for a sturdy pathway herb. It gets its name from the dense silvery growth that creates the effect of a woolly carpet or rug. Its scent is earthy and herbal, but not as strong as culinary thyme, and the small pink flowers will attract pollinators. It grows a couple of inches (5cm) high and tolerates dry, rocky soil, drought and (crucially) foot traffic. It just needs good drainage and full sun.

Plant woolly thyme in south- or west-facing pathways that receive a minimum of 6-8 hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight daily. For an exquisite visual companion planting strategy, nestle woolly thyme alongside contrasting stonecrops (sedum), or aubrietia along the lower-traffic perimeters of your walkway, to create a stunning multi-textured mosaic. Buy Perennial Farm Marketplace’s Woolly Thyme Plants from Amazon to quickly fill in paving seams and bring a cloud of soft summer blooms pollinators love.

2. Corsican Mint

Like woolly thyme, Corsican mint (Mentha requienii) grows densely and very low to the ground, often only an inch (2.5cm) tall. This mint has a strong and sweet fragrance that intensifies in the sun and whenever the leaves are crushed underfoot. However, it is not as invasive as other types of mint. It will spread readily between pathway pavers, but it won’t take over your garden or lawn. It just needs soil that retains some moisture and a little bit of shade, especially on hot afternoons.

Corsican mint thrives in damp, partially shaded, morning-sun paths. However, don't plant in very heavy areas of foot traffic. Save this fragrant herb for secondary garden paths where light steps will gently release its signature crème-de-menthe aroma. It pairs beautifully with minor bulbs like dwarf iris or miniature hostas, planted just off pathway edges, creating a soft, cohesive transition. You can buy Corsican Mint Seeds from Eden Brothers for quick developing rugs of crisp, fresh green scent.

3. Sweet Woodruff

For shady pathways, try sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum). As the name suggests, this low-growing herb has a delightful aroma reminiscent of vanilla as well as hay (which explains its other name of sweet scented straw). Sweet woodruff also offers pretty leaves and delicate white flowers in spring. Hardy in zones 4-8, it’s a great plant for partial or full shade. It grows slightly taller than thyme or mint, maturing at 6-10 inches (15-25cm) high when left undisturbed, but its pliable stems readily compress underfoot without snapping or sustaining permanent damage.

Plant sweet woodruff in paths flanked by mature trees or along the north-facing sides of buildings where shade is persistent. To maximize its beauty, plant it in wide, spacious flagstone joints alongside complementary shade lovers like jewel-toned caladiums or delicate Japanese painted ferns for a luminous, light-reflecting woodland walkway. You can buy Sweet Woodruff Plants from Amazon.

4. Roman Chamomile

Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) is a delicately apple-scented herb often used for a calming tea. While some types grow tall, Roman chamomile grows lower and is often used as a groundcover and even a turf substitute, hence its other name of lawn chamomile. It thrives in zones 4-9 and grows best in sun-drenched pathways. The soil should drain well, and occasional pruning will keep plants full and dense. Just don't overfertilize with high-nitrogen feeds, as this encourages weak, floppy growth.

This herb works brilliantly alongside low-growing dwarf oregano (next on our list), creating a tough, drought-defying pathway matrix. You can buy Roman Chamomile Seeds from Eden Brothers for pretty daisy swathes. Alternatively, to maintain a neat profile, try non-flowering 'Treneague' which stays prostrate. This is a lovely pathway plant with a sweet apple aroma, keeping paving joints tightly knit and weed-free.

5. Dwarf Oregano

Dwarf oregano (Origanum vulgare 'Compactum') is a low-growing aromatic herb that is drought-tolerant and hardy in zones 5-9. You just need to grow it in full sun and soil that drains well. This oregano variety is one of the toughest, most tolerant herbal groundcovers available. Its woody, resilient root system binds tightly to the gravelly sub-base beneath heavy paving stones, serving as an exceptional structural stabilizer that actively blocks invasive weeds from gaining a foothold.

Allow the soil around your dwarf oregano to dry out between watering sessions. It prefers mimicking the arid slopes of its native Mediterranean habitat, so don't plant it in sunken, low-lying areas of the garden where stormwater pools and stands. Plant alongside woolly thyme or purple rock cress for a durable walkway with multi-season interest. You can buy Dwarf Greek Oregano 'Compactum' Plants from Walmart.

Make the Most of Your Herbal Path

These pathway heroes are very easy to maintain, and in many respects it is possible to set and forget your herbs. However, to keep them going year after year, sensible watering is key, especially in dry spells. Give them infrequent but deep soaking sessions late in the evening. This encourages roots to push down beneath the shield of the pavers, rather than staying shallow and vulnerable near hot stone surfaces.

Regular trimming also preserves density and resilience. Run a lightweight lawnmower over established patches of chamomile or thyme once a year. Do this in late summer to stimulate fresh, tight growth. And keep an eye on foot traffic during that first year of planting. Consider placing your toughest characters, like dwarf oregano and woolly thyme, directly in the primary centerline cracks of a path, while reserving softer, moisture-loving choices, like Corsican mint, for the outer margins.

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Your fragrant walkway is only a few seeds or nursery plants away. These charming low-profile groundcovers fit neatly into paving gaps and cracks, bringing instant texture, vibrant color contrasts, and rich aromatic appeal. Get ready to watch your garden walkways transform into weed-suppressing wonder trails that release incredible scent with every step.

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