The versatility and nutritional appeal of eggplants make them a perfect food for many recipes. These heat loving veggies need a long growing season and plenty of sunshine. Can you grow eggplants indoors? It will be a bit tricky and requires some extra attention compared to garden grown plants, but it can be done. Keep reading for some tips on indoor eggplants and the secret to getting them to fruit.

Can You Grow Eggplants Indoors?

Some people call them aubergines, but by any name eggplants are a dining treat. Growing eggplants inside is a bit tricky because it is difficult to provide enough heat and candle hours of light. The obvious solution is to build a grow system that not only enhances heat but includes grow lights. It still might not result in fruit, but you will have an elegant eggplant as a houseplant.

Eggplants are in the same family as peppers and tomatoes, the nightshade family. When growing eggplants inside, be cautious that curious animals and small children won't try to nibble on the foliage, which is toxic. Select one of the smaller eggplant varieties due to space restrictions.

Growing Eggplants Inside

The first condition to tackle is heat. Eggplants germinate at 70 degrees F. (21 C.) or higher. You will really have to turn up the heat and probably use a heat mat to get sprouts. During the plant's development, that high temperature must be maintained. Amping up the heat at least 10 more degrees will help the plant set blooms and fruit.

Even with a southern window, it is going to be hard to provide adequate light. Use grow lights to give the plants at least eight to ten hours of full sun. High output T5 lights will provide enough light and produce a bit of heat too. Overhead lighting is sufficient for initial growth.

For best results, add peripheral lights once the plant starts to flower. This will help drive fruit production by allowing light to reach under the leaves and go directly towards the flowers and fruit. To keep the heat and lights confined, use a grow tent. This will focus the light and keep the temperatures high. Keep plants moist and encourage humidity.

Pollination and Fruit Set for Indoor Eggplants

Eggplants are self-pollinating, but they rely upon the wind and insect activity to move pollen to flowers. Having an eggplant as a houseplant means you have to hand pollinate. Shaking the plant will help stir up pollen but a more direct method will work best. Use a small paint brush or cotton swab and swizzle it around each flower, dispensing pollen as you go.

Fruiting will stop if temperatures get over 95 degrees F. (35 C.), so you will need to watch the heat.

Eggplants need to be kept evenly moist with humidity around 65 to 75 percent. Fertilize when plants begin to flower with a good tomato food.

Aphids and spider mites are the most common pests which can be combated by rinsing them off or using horticultural oil.

With a bit of extra work, growing eggplants inside is possible, and you can expect some fruit with good care.

If you're looking to harvest larger yields of eggplant, fertilizer may help. Plants use energy from the sun and nutrients from the soil for growth and food production. Some garden vegetables, like peas and beans, need fewer added nutrients. Others, like eggplants, are considered heavy feeders.

How to Fertilize Eggplants

Eggplants grow best in a compost-rich, fertile soil under full sun. Feeding eggplants during their growing and fruiting stages improves the overall health of the plant. Healthy plants produce larger fruit in greater quantities. In addition, when growing some varieties of eggplant, fertilizer may reduce bitterness caused by plant stress.

Many gardeners begin the growing season by incorporating compost and fertilizer into the garden soil prior to planting. This gives young eggplants a boost of nutrients for a healthy start. Having garden soil tested takes the guesswork out of how much and what type of fertilizer to use.

Soil testing provides an NPK analysis, which tells gardeners how much nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is needed to balance and amend their garden soil. Plants use nitrogen for green growth and the construction of chlorophyll. Phosphorus benefits the formation of new roots and is used in flower, fruit, and seed production. Potassium contributes to stem strength, disease resistance, and growth.

Periodic eggplant feeding during the growing season also helps these heavy feeders with setting and producing fruit. A balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) is often recommended for eggplant. Feeding too much nitrogen at this point can result in large, leafy plants that fail to produce fruit.

Types of Eggplant Fertilizer

Fertilizers can be chemically manufactured or come from natural sources such as plant matter, animal manures, or minerals found in rock. Some gardeners prefer bagged fertilizers since the NPK rating is listed on the label. Aged manures, leaves, grass clippings, and compost from one's own backyard or from neighboring properties can be obtained for free, but lack a guaranteed NPK analysis. This material can be worked into soil or used as a mulch.

Powdered, pelleted, or granular fertilizers can be applied as a side dressing between rows or to soil at the base of the eggplant. Fertilizer applied in this manner should be worked into the dirt to prevent heavy precipitation from splashing fertilizer onto the plant. 

Since plants can absorb nutrients through their leaves, foliar feeding eggplants is an alternative method for fertilizing. Eggplants that are underperforming are the best candidates. Use a commercial liquid fertilizer designed for foliar feeding or make your own from diluted manure tea. Apply this liquid as a fine spray, early in the morning when ambient temperatures are cool.

Finally, when in doubt about how to fertilize eggplants, gardeners can't go wrong when choosing a quality tomato fertilizer. Like tomatoes, eggplants are also members of the nightshade family and have similar nutritional needs. Of course, feeding eggplants can create a problem – it can make you the envy of all your eggplant loving friends!

The beautiful purple Italian eggplant is, indeed, delicious but how about mixing it up a bit and growing Clara eggplant? The following article contains Clara eggplant info regarding how to grow Clara eggplants.

What is Clara Eggplant?

The eggplant variety, Clara, is an Italian hybrid that produces gorgeous, brilliantly white fruit offset by a bright green calyx. The oval-shaped fruit grows to around 6 or 7 inches (15-18 cm.) in length by 4 or 5 inches (10-13 cm.) across.

Clara eggplant is an early season crop that matures in approximately 65 days. Since Clara eggplant has thin skin, it is best suited for the home garden, as the delicate exterior bruises easily during shipping. This cultivar is a high yielder and the vigorous plants have few spines.

How to Grow Clara Eggplants

Eggplant is a warm season annual. Clara eggplant should be sown in flats in the early spring or 6-8 weeks before planting outside. Soil temperatures for germination should be between 80-90 F. (27-32 C.) and at least 70 F. (21 C.) thereafter.

Eggplant requires well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.2 to 6.8. Sow seeds shallowly and barely cover with soil. Keep the flats moist and warm. When the first true sets of leaves appear, thin the seedlings to 2to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) apart.

Harden the seedlings off for a week prior to transplanting them by gradually introducing them to outdoor temperatures. Transplant them outside in late spring or early summer when soil temperatures have warmed and all danger of frost has passed for your area. Space the plants 18 inches (46 cm.) apart in rows that are 30 to 36 inches (76-91 cm.) apart.

When growing Clara eggplant, or really any eggplant, stake the plants to support the heavy fruit. Cover the plants with a row cover to help retard insects, specifically flea beetles and Colorado potato beetles. Once the plants reach the cover or when they begin to bloom, remove the row cover but maintain a close eye for any insect infestations.

Harvest the fruit with sharp shears and pick regularly to encourage additional fruit production. Practice a four to five year crop rotation to avoid verticillium wilt on not only eggplant, but any other Solanaceae crops.

Eggplant might not be what you think of when you think “berry,” but they are actually a fruit. Their sweet, soft flesh is the perfect complement to almost any flavor and they grow like weeds in warm temperatures. The purple Graffiti eggplant is an excellent example. What is a Graffiti eggplant? This hybrid is a modern take on a traditional food with small size and superior flavor.

Graffiti Eggplant Info

There are numerous eggplant varieties from which to choose. They run the gamut from Asian and Mediterranean types with differences in size, color, and shape thrown in as further variation. The eggplant, Graffiti, is possibly a hybrid of those native to India. Wherever the plant’s origin, it has been bred to bring out the sweetness and remove any bitterness associated with wild fruit.

Many types of eggplant have especially appealing skin. The eggplant, Graffiti, is a very appealing example of the fruits. It has classic purple skin and an oblong shape, but the glossy, smooth skin is decorated with white scratches and marks, much like a street artist would make with chalk.

The flesh is soft and creamy white with minimal seeds. Purple Graffiti eggplant is in the nightshade family and has numerous names, among them are Listada de Gandia, Shooting Stars, Purple Rain, and Pandora Striped Rose.

Growing Purple Graffiti Eggplant

Like all members of the nightshade family, this eggplant needs heat and sun. In most regions, start them indoors 6 weeks before the date of the last frost. For quicker germination, soak seeds overnight and sow in a seed starter mix covered with just a dusting of soil.

Use bottom heat to encourage germination and keep the soil moderately moist. Expect to see sprouts in 6 to 10 days. Harden off seedlings before transplanting them into a prepared, well-draining bed in full sun.

Mulch around the plants and stake as needed. A floating row cover can help prevent some insect pests.

Graffiti Eggplant Uses

Eggplant is a very versatile food. Quick cook methods accentuate the many Graffiti eggplant uses, but they can also be stewed and roasted. Eggplant will discolor when cut so use a bit of lemon, salt, or vinegar if you want to keep open surfaces creamy white.

These are smaller eggplants and will cook quickly. They are the perfect size for stuffing with a variety of fillings. You may also grill, sauté, pan sear, or fry the fruits. The most popular cuisines for flavor pairings with eggplant are Asian, Indian, and Mediterranean.

Eggplants grow wild in fairly inhospitable regions and pair well with other nightshades, rich meats, and young cheeses.

Truly a diminutive eggplant, Ophelia is a great variety for smaller spaces. It also does well in a regular vegetable garden bed, but if you’re tight on space or only have a patio with containers for growing vegetables, try this eggplant. The fruits are egg sized and the entire plants are compact as well.

What is an Ophelia Eggplant?

Ophelia is an eggplant variety that grows into small plants and diminutive fruits, only about two ounces (57 grams) each. The eggplants grow in clusters like tomatoes and are deep purple and egg shaped. The flowers are lavender and white stunners, and they add to the ornamental look of this plant.

The taste and texture of Ophelia eggplants are of good quality. They are tender and not bitter. You can use them as you would other types of eggplant: roasted, in casseroles, baked, or stir fried. The small slices you get from these tiny eggplants make them great for appetizers too.

Growing an Ophelia Eggplant in the Garden

With some basic Ophelia eggplant information, you can easily grow this little gem in your vegetable garden. The plants will only grow to about 24 inches (60 cm.) in height, so consider this variety for a container garden. Just be sure that the container is big enough; although small, these plants need some room to stretch.

Give your Ophelia eggplants 50 to 55 days to get to maturity. The seeds take just five to ten days to germinate. Provide your seedlings with rich soil that drains well, whether in a bed or container. Thin them until the plants are spaced about 18 inches (46 cm.) apart.

These plants do best in warm conditions, so don’t put outside until low temperatures are at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 Celsius). It can help to harden them off indoors by transitioning seedlings to lower and lower temperatures. Use a little fertilizer every couple of weeks as your plants grow and keep them well watered.

Your little eggplants will be ready to harvest when they are egg sized and deep purple with shiny, smooth skin. If the skin starts to wrinkle or get soft, they are over ripe. You can store your eggplants once harvested for a week or ten days. Expect to get a big yield from this prolific variety of eggplant.

If you have never considered eggplant cute, take a look at the Calliope eggplant. What is a Calliope eggplant? The plant produces a truly egg-shaped fruit that has decorative splashes of color. It is almost too pretty to eat, but reportedly has a nice, lightly sweet flavor perfect for many types of cuisine. Learn more Calliope eggplant info so you can decide if you want to grow this neat plant yourself.

What is a Calliope Eggplant?

There are more types of eggplant than can be named. The Asian variety is usually slender, while the American type is a big, chubby fellow. African species are usually more rounded and it may be from these varieties from which Calliope hails. The fruits are fairly small, but the plant itself boasts a wonderful surprise, and Calliope eggplant uses are abundant.

The plants from which we get the delicious fruit can be a bit nasty, often covered in spines or sharp hairs. Enter the Calliope eggplant, which is spineless. Even the calyx of the fruit is devoid of poking growths. If you hate picking fruit from traditional plants, growing Calliope eggplants would be your best bet.

Plants grow up to 30 inches (76 cm.) with a spread of 18 inches (45.5 cm.). The fruits get up to 4 inches (10 cm.) but can be picked at half the size for a sweeter, more tender eggplant. The fruits are purple-red with white streaks. Calliope eggplant info reveals that this is an extremely productive variety.

Growing Calliope Eggplant

In most regions, start seed indoors in flats 6 to 8 weeks before the date of the last frost. If you live in a region with a long growing season, you can plant directly into a prepared bed two weeks after the last frost.

Soil temperatures for germination should be 75 to 90 Fahrenheit (24-32 C.). Expect germination in 10 to 15 days. Beds should be enhanced with compost and manure prior to transplanting. Young plants will need protection from wind. Space seedlings 36 inches (91.5 cm.) apart. You can expect young fruits in as little as 60 days.

Calliope Eggplant Care

Calliope eggplant care is easy. These plants seem to want to grow and are even useful in cooler climates.

Keep eggplant watered well during hot, dry periods. Use organic mulch around the base of the plant to prevent weeds. You can also use plastic mulch to reflect light, warm soil, and increase yields.

Use a slow-release fertilizer at transplant. Use diluted food once per month and side-dress with compost or well-rotted manure.

Watch for pests and act immediately.

Among the Calliope eggplant uses are soups, stews, egg dishes, roasted and pureed, fried, and even grilled.

Like to grow eggplant but not as thrilled with the associated diseases many classic Italian varieties are prone to? Try growing Black Bell eggplants. What is a Black Bell eggplant? Keep reading to learn how to grow the eggplant variety ‘Black Bell’ and other Black Bell eggplant info.

What is a Black Bell Eggplant?

The eggplant variety ‘Black Bell’ is an Italian type of eggplant with the classic oval pear-shape and glossy purple-black skin. The fruit is generally about 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm.) in length. The overall mature plant size is about 3to 4 feet (around a meter) in height and 12 to 16 inches (31-41 cm.) across.

Black Bell is a hybrid eggplant that is pretty much like the heirloom Black Beauty in appearance, taste, and texture although it does produce a bit earlier. What it has that the classic Black Beauty is lacking is better disease resistance.

Black Bell was developed to be resistant to tobacco mosaic virus and tomato mosaic virus, common problems with eggplants and other nightshade plants like peppers and tomatoes.

Growing Black Bell Eggplants

Black Bell eggplant can be planted in USDA hardiness zones 5 to 11. Start seeds inside six to eight weeks before planting outside. Germination should occur within 10 to 14 days.

A week before transplanting outdoors, harden the seedlings off by gradually increasing their time outside. Space the transplants about 24 to 36 inches (61-91 cm.) apart in an area of full sun (at least six hours per day) in fertile, well-draining soil.

Stake the plant early in the season to provide support for the large fruit and keep the plants consistently watered. Fruit should be ready for harvest within 58 to 72 days.

Eggplants are versatile, tasty, and easy-to-grow vegetables for the home gardener. Popular in several types of cuisine, there are many varieties from which to choose. For your garden’s next eggplant, Orient Express is a fun type to try. It has some properties that makes it both easier to grow and easier to enjoy in the kitchen.

What are Orient Express Eggplants?

Orient Express is an Asian variety of eggplant known as Solanum melongena. It is a dependable, high-yield type of eggplant with pretty, deep purple-black fruits with a delicate skin. They are longer and narrower than typical eggplants.

For cooking, the Orient Express Asian eggplant is desirable for its light flavor and thin skin. Because it is narrow, only about 1.5 to 2.5 inches (4 to 6 cm.) in diameter, it doesn’t take long to cook. And with the thinner skin, there is no need to peel before eating. As with other types of eggplant, you can enjoy this one grilled, roasted, fried, and in most any cooked vegetable dish or casserole.

Growing Orient Express Eggplants

Orient Express is an early variety of eggplant, but it is actually even earlier than other early types. Expect your eggplants to be ready up to two weeks sooner than other varieties. If you want a steady supply of eggplant from the garden, this is a good choice to get the season and the harvest started. You can also rely on this variety to set fruit even if weather is chilly or unusually hot.

Another important piece of Orient Express eggplant information you need before you plan on growing it is that the seeds can take longer to germinate than you might expect. Allow extra time when starting with seeds and make sure the soil is warm enough, between 80- and 90-degrees Fahrenheit (27 to 32 Celsius).

Your Orient Express plants will do best in soil that is fertile and slightly acidic, and that drains well. Start seeds inside and move transplants outdoors after the last frost. Eggplants can be tender, so it helps to harden them a little before moving outdoors. If you have a cooler part of the home you can transition them to before going outside, do so.

Once your eggplants are thriving outdoors, keep them watered regularly, prune and stake as needed and get ready for a big, early harvest.

When it comes to growing eggplant, gardeners have had to choose between the bounty of big-fruited eggplants and the sweet flavor and firmness of smaller eggplant varieties. This may be a thing of the past with Prosperosa eggplant seeds available. What is a Prosperosa eggplant? According to Prosperosa eggplant information, these enormous beauties combine a large, rounded shape with the taste experience of smaller types of eggplant. Read on for information on growing a Prosperosa eggplant.

Prosperosa Plant Information

Given the dozens of eggplant varieties available on the market, you may never have heard of Prosperosa eggplant (Solanum melongena ‘Prosperosa’). But it’s well worth a try if you are looking for a new type of eggplant for your garden.

What is a Prosperosa eggplant? It’s an Italian heirloom variety that is both attractive and delicious. Prosperosa plants grow large, round, and often pleated fruits. They are a rich purple with creamy tones near the stem. And those growing Prosperosa eggplants also rave about its mild flavor and tender flesh.

Growing Prosperosa Eggplants

If you are interested in growing Prosperosa eggplant, you should start the seeds indoors a few months before the last frost. Seeds can be sown outdoors and seedlings can be transplanted outdoors when the temperatures at night are above 55 degrees Fahrenheit (13 C.).

These plants grow between 2.5 and 4 feet (76–122 cm.) tall. You’ll need to space the plants about 24 inches (61 cm.) apart.

Prosperosa Eggplant Care

Plant Prosperosa eggplants in full sun since the plants require six or more hours of direct sun each day. They prefer fertile sandy soil that has excellent drainage. In these conditions, Prosperosa eggplant care is relatively easy.

Like other eggplants, Prosperosa are heat-loving vegetables. To assist young plants when you sow seeds outside, you can cover the seedlings until the first blossoms appear. They require a long growing season, generally 75 days from germination to harvest.

According to Prostperosa eggplant information, you should harvest these eggplants while the skin is smooth and shiny. If you wait too late, the fruit turns soft and the seeds inside turn brown or black. Once you harvest, use the fruit within 10 days.

Gardeners love growing eggplant. It is a beautiful plant in both beds and containers and also makes healthy, excellent eating. If you are seeking a large, Italian-type fruit with a great taste, you may want to consider growing Beatrice eggplants. What is a Beatrice eggplant? It’s a type of eggplant that is particularly attractive and delicious. For more Beatrice eggplant information, including tips on how to grow Beatrice eggplants and Beatrice eggplant uses, read on.

What is a Beatrice Eggplant?

Eggplants come in so many sizes and shapes that there is literally a type suited to any garden. Given the number of eggplant varieties out there, you may not have heard about the joys of growing Beatrice eggplants (Solanum melongena var. esculentum). But it’s worth a look.

This is a stately, upright garden plant that produces large, round, bright lavender fruit. The plants can grow to 36 inches (91.5 cm.) tall and, according to Beatrice eggplant information, the yield per plant is exceptionally high.

Growing Beatrice Eggplants

Beatrice eggplants grow well both in the garden and the greenhouse. Those growing Beatrice eggplants sow the seeds in spring. The eggplant blossoms are an attractive pink-purple. These are followed by round fruits with a brilliant lilac skin that require about two months from germination to mature.

If you are wondering how to grow Beatrice eggplants, you’ll find it easy if you site the plants correctly. All eggplants require direct sun and well-draining soil and Beatrice eggplants are no exception.

For best results, plant Beatrice eggplants in fertile soil with a pH range of 6.2 to 6.8. You can sow seeds indoors several months before spring planting. The soil should be warm – some 80 to 90 degrees F. (27 to 32 degrees C.) until the seedlings appear. Transplant in late spring, spacing them about 18 inches (45.5 cm.) apart.

These eggplants are best if harvested when they are about 5 inches (13 cm.) in diameter. Picked this size, the skin is thin and tender. If you like the taste of the heirloom eggplant Rosa Bianca, you’ll get the same shape, flavor, and texture in this variety. Beatrice eggplant uses include grilling, stuffing, and making eggplant parmesan.

As the name suggests, Indian eggplants are native to the warm climate of India, where they grow wild. In recent years, the small egg-shaped veggies, also known as baby eggplants, have become highly desired for their mild sweet flavor and creamy texture. The good news is that growing Indian eggplants isn’t difficult, and is much the same as growing other varieties.

Types of Indian Eggplants

Gardeners can choose from several kinds of Indian eggplants. Here are a few of the most popular Indian eggplant cultivars:

• Black Chu Chu hybrid, which produces small rounded fruits, is one of the newer Indian eggplant varieties.
• Red Chu Chu hybrid is an egg-shaped, bright reddish-purple eggplant.
• Calliope is an attractive oval eggplant with purple and white streaks.
• Apsara is one of the newest kinds of Indian eggplants. It produces rounded purple fruit with contrasting white stripes.
• Bharata Star is a high-yielding plant that produces rounded purple-black fruit in 60-70 days.
• Harabegan hybrid is an unusual eggplant with long, narrow, pale green fruit and few seeds.
• Raavayya hybrid is among the most popular Indian eggplant cultivars. It produces egg-shaped fruit with attractive reddish-purple skin. 
• Raja hybrid is a unique white eggplant with a rounded shape. 
• Udumalpet produces pretty pale green, goose-egg shaped fruit with purple streaks.

Growing Indian Eggplants

The easiest way to begin growing Indian eggplant is to purchase young plants in spring. You can also start seeds indoors six to nine weeks ahead of time. Indian eggplant is a tropical plant and doesn’t tolerate cold temperatures. Don’t move plants outdoors until all danger of frost has passed and daytime temperatures are at least 65 F. (18 C.).

Indian eggplant likes fertile, well-drained soil. Dig in a generous amount of compost, well-rotted manure or other organic material before planting. Mulch the plants well to keep the soil moist and discourage growth of weeds.

Provide Indian eggplants with at least an inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week. Deep watering is healthier and produces strong roots. Avoid frequent, shallow watering.

Indian eggplant is a heavy feeder. Apply a balanced fertilizer at planting time, and again shortly after fruit appears.

Weed around eggplants frequently, as weeds will rob moisture and nutrients from the plants.

Of course, you grow eggplant in your veggie garden to enjoy the delicious eating at dinner time, but when your eggplant variety produces magically ornamental plants, like when you are growing Fairy Tale eggplants, it’s an extra bonus. This type of eggplant is as beautiful as it is delicious. Read on for more Fairy Tale eggplant information, including tips on how to grow fairy tale eggplants.

What is a Fairy Tale Eggplant?

Eggplant has many fans, but it’s not considered an especially gorgeous vegetable plant. Your opinion on this topic might change when you read some Fairy Tale eggplant information. What is a Fairy Tale eggplant? It’s a variety of the classic vegetable that produces tender-sweet fruits attractive enough to deserve a place in your annual flower bed.

The eggplant "Fairy Tale" is a lovely mini eggplant, only 4 inches (10 cm.) long. It is lavender with stunning streaks of white and grows on compact stems. The plant itself is a dwarf, growing only 24 inches (61 cm.) tall. That makes growing Fairy Tale eggplants suitable enough for planting in containers. The fruit is sweet, without any bitterness, and it has few seeds.

How to Grow Fairy Tale Eggplants

If you are wondering how to grow Fairy Tale eggplants, you can sow the seeds indoors a few months before the last spring frost. Keep the soil moist and warm, around 75 degrees F (23.8 C). Seedlings emerge in two to three weeks and must be hardened off before transplanting to the garden.

When you start growing Fairy Tale eggplant, you’ll need to pick a sunny site that offers rich, organic soil. Don’t plant in a plot where you grew tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, or other eggplants the year before.

Set the eggplant Fairy Tale plants about 3 feet (.9 meters) apart. Transplant the seedling into an ample hole at the same depth as it grew in the container. Press the soil into place and water thoroughly.

Growing eggplant Fairy Tale in a container is also a good option. How to grow Fairy Tale eggplants in containers? Select a pot at least 2 feet (61 cm.) wide and deep. Don’t fill it with garden soil, but rather potting mix. Care for as you would in the garden but keep in mind that container grown plants typically require more watering than those planted in ground.

If you love to decorate for Halloween and Thanksgiving, then you should be growing pumpkin on a stick plant. Yes, that is really the name, or at least one of them, and how appropriate it is. What is a pumpkin on a stick? Well, it looks exactly like a pumpkin on a stick. That said, it isn’t a pumpkin or even related – it’s actually an eggplant. Interested in growing pumpkin on a stick? Keep reading to learn how to grow ornamental eggplants.

What is a Pumpkin on a Stick Plant?

A pumpkin on a stick plant (Solanum integrifolium) is not a pumpkin. As mentioned, it is a type of eggplant grown as an ornamental, but because of how it looks, confusion is inevitable. Part of the nightshade family and related to tomatoes, potatoes, and peppers, pumpkin on a stick looks exactly like small, orange pumpkins growing on a stick, albeit a stereotypically thorned eggplant stick.

Otherwise, the plant has an upright habit with large leaves. Both the stems and leaves have thorns. The leaves are dotted with small prickles and the stem with large purple thorns. The plant reaches a height of about 3-4 feet (around a meter) and 2-3 feet (61-91.5 cm.) across. The plant blooms with clusters of small, white blossoms that are followed by small, pale green, ridged fruit.

As if there isn’t enough confusion, the plant has a number of other names, among them Hmong eggplant, red China eggplant, and scarlet Chinese eggplant. This specimen was brought to the United States from Thailand by Vanderbilt University in 1870 as a botanical, ornamental curiosity.

How to Grow Ornamental Eggplants

Ornamental eggplant is grown just as you would any other eggplant or tomato. The plant likes full sun and well-draining soil. Start seeds inside about 6 weeks before the average last frost for your area with temps of at least 75 F. (24 C.). Place them on a heating mat or on top of the refrigerator and provide them with 12 hours of light.

When the plants have their first two sets of true leaves, harden them off in preparation for transplanting. Transplant after nighttime temps are at least 55 F. (13 C.). Space transplants 3 feet apart (91.5 cm.).

Ornamental Eggplant Care

Once the transplants have been situated in the garden, ornamental eggplant care is fairly simple. Adjust the tying and staking as needed. Keep the soil moist and mulch around the plants to help retard weeds, cool roots and retain water.

Fertilize the plants as you would for tomatoes or peppers. Fruit should be ready to harvest about 65-75 days from transplanting. Be sure to dry the stems and fruit well. Hang the stems in bunches out in the sun or other warm but ventilated area until the leaves have died. Remove the leaves and display the stems in a dry vase or other container.

Eggplant is a fruit that has captured the imagination and taste buds of many countries. Eggplants from Japan are known for their thin skin and few seeds. This makes them exceptionally tender. While most types of Japanese eggplants are long and slender, a few are round and egg shaped. Continue reading for more Japanese eggplant information.

What is a Japanese Eggplant?

Eggplants have been cultivated for centuries. There are writings from the 3^rd century referencing the cultivation of this wild fruit. Much of the breeding was done to remove the prickles and astringent flavor of wild forms. Today’s Japanese eggplant is silky smooth, sweet and easy to use.

The original eggplants were small, round, green fruits with a slight bitterness to the flesh. Over time, Japanese eggplant varieties have evolved into primarily purple skinned, long, slender fruit, although there are still green forms and even some heirloom varieties that are white or orange.

Many eggplants from Japan even feature variegated or speckled flesh. Most hybrid varieties have such deeply purple skin it appears to be black. Eggplant is used in stir fry, soup and stew, and sauces.

Japanese Eggplant Information

Japanese eggplant varieties are much leaner than the “globe” types typically found in our supermarkets. They still have the same nutritive benefits and can be used in the same way. The most common types found at farmer’s and specialty markets are glossy, purple fruits. The flesh is creamy and slightly spongy, which makes it a great food to soak up savory or sweet sauces and seasonings.

Some varieties you can grow are:

• Kurume - So dark it is almost black
• Shoya Long - A very long, slim eggplant
• Mangan - A bit chubbier than the usual slender Japanese varieties
• Money Maker - Thick but oblong purple fruits
• Konasu - Small, rounded black fruit
• Ao Diamuru - Rounded green eggplant
• Choryoku - Slender, long green fruit

Growing Japanese Eggplant

All types of Japanese eggplants need full sun, well-draining soil and heat. Start your seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the date of the last frost. Thin seedlings when they have a couple of pairs of true leaves. Harden off plants and transplant to a prepared bed.

Snip off the fruits when they are the size you require. Removing fruits may encourage further production.

Japanese eggplants soak up such traditional flavors as miso, soy, sake, vinegar and ginger. They pair well with the flavors of mint and basil. Almost any meat complements Japanese eggplant and it is used in sauté, frying, baking and even pickling.

Jilo Brazilian eggplant produces small, vibrant red fruit and, as the name suggests, is widely grown in Brazil, but Brazilians aren’t the only ones growing jilo eggplants. Read on for more jilo eggplant info.

What is a Jilo Eggplant?

Jilo is a green fruit related to both the tomato and the eggplant. Once treated as a distinct species, Solanum gilo, it is now known to be of the group Solanum aethiopicum.

This deciduous shrub in the family Solanaceae has a highly branching habit and grows up to 6 ½ feet (2 m.) in height. Leaves are alternate with smooth or lobed margins and can get up to a foot (31 cm.) long. The plant produces cluster of white blooms that develop into egg or spindle-shaped fruit that, at maturity, are orange to red and either smooth or grooved.

Jilo Eggplant Info

Jilo Brazilian eggplant goes by a myriad of names: African eggplant, scarlet eggplant, bitter tomato, mock tomato, garden egg, and Ethiopian nightshade.

Jilo, or gilo, eggplant is commonly found throughout Africa from southern Senegal to Nigeria, Central Africa to eastern Africa, and into Angola, Zimbabwe, and Mozambique. It likely resulted from the domestication of S. anguivi frica.

In the late 1500’s, the fruit was introduced via British traders who imported it from the coast of West Africa. For a time, it attained some popularity and was referred to as “guinea squash.” The small fruit, about the size (and color) of a hen’s egg, was soon dubbed “egg plant.”

It is eaten as a vegetable but is actually a fruit. It is harvested when it is still a bright green and pan fried or, when red and ripe, it’s eaten fresh or pureed into juice much like a tomato.

Jilo Eggplant Care

As a general rule, all types of African eggplant thrive in full sun with well-draining soil and a pH of 5.5 and 5.8. Gilo eggplant grows best when daytime temps are between 75 and 95 degrees F. (25-35 C.).

Seeds can be collected from fully ripe fruit and then allowed to dry in a cool, dark area. When dry, plant the seeds indoors. Sow seeds 6 inches (15 cm.) apart in rows spaced 8 inches (20 cm.) apart. When the seedlings have five to seven leaves, harden the plants off in preparation for transplanting outside.

When growing jilo eggplant, space the transplants 20 inches (50 cm.) apart in rows that are spaced 30 inches (75 cm.) apart. Stake and tie the plants just as you would a tomato plant.

Jilo eggplant care is fairly easy once the plants have established. Keep them moist but not sodden. An addition of well-rotted manure or compost will improve yields.

Harvest the fruit in about 100 to 120 days from planting and pick on a regular basis to encourage additional production.

Eggplants are vegetables from the nightshade family and related to tomatoes and peppers. There are European, African and Asian eggplant varieties, each with different characteristics including size, shape and color. Chinese eggplant varieties are probably some of the oldest of the vegetable.

Eggplants from China tend to be elongated and deeply purple with glossy skin. They are excellent in stir fry and soup. They are quite easy to grow as long as they receive plenty of sun and heat. This article will provide information on how to grow Chinese eggplants and use them once harvested.

Chinese Eggplant Information

Although there may be more, a quick web search turned up 12 types of Chinese eggplant. It is said that the name comes from Europeans who saw white orbs growing in the ground in India, and likened them to eggs. The Chinese cultivars couldn't be more different with striking color and narrow bodies.

The earliest domestic recordings of Chinese eggplants described them as small, round, green fruits. Centuries of cultivation have changed the shape, size, skin color and even the prickliness of the stems, leaves and fruit that wild plants boasted. In fact, today’s eggplant is a smooth, narrow fruit with creamy flesh. It has a decidedly sweet flavor and semi-firm texture.

Eggplants from China seem to all have been developed for the tubular shape. Early Chinese writings document the change from wild, green, round fruit to large, long, purple skinned fruit. This process is well documented in the Tong Yue, a 59 BC writing by Wang Bao.

Types of Chinese Eggplant

There are many hybrids of the typical Chinese breeds. While most are the purple hues, a few have almost blue, white or even black skin. Some commonly available Chinese eggplant varieties include:

• Purple Excel - A high yield variety
• HK Long - An extra long, tender purple type
• Bride - Purple and white, tubular but quite chubby
• Purple Charm - Brightly violet
• Ma-Zu Purple - Slender fruits, almost black in color
• Ping Tung Long - Straight fruits, very tender, bright pink skin
• Purple Shine - As the name suggests, glossy purple skin
• Hybrid Asia Beauty - Deeply purple, tender, sweet flesh
• Hybrid Long White Angle - Creamy skin and flesh
• Fengyuan Purple - A classic Chinese fruit
• Machiaw - Huge fruits, very thick and light lavender skin

How to Grow Chinese Eggplants

Eggplants need fertile, well-draining soil with a pH of 6.2-6.8. Sow seeds indoors in flats 6-8 weeks before the date of the last frost. The soil must be kept warm to ensure germination.

Thin plants after 2-3 true leaves have formed. Transplant them out after the date of the last frost and when the soil has warmed to 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 C.).

Use row covers to prevent flea beetles and other pests, but remove them when flowers are observed. Some varieties will require staking. Clip off the fruit regularly to promote the set of more flowers and fruit.

What is a Nubia eggplant? A type of Italian eggplant, ‘Nubia’ is a large, sturdy plant that produces large, lavender fruit with white stripes. Growing Nubia eggplants isn’t difficult. Read on to learn how.

Nubia Eggplant Information

Nubia eggplants measure 7 to 8 inches (18-20.5 cm.) in length. They are attractive fruits with a mellow flavor that works well for frying or grilling.

Growing Nubia Eggplants

Nubia eggplants are warm-weather plants that need a long growing season. It’s possible to plant seeds directly in the garden, but if you have short summers, plant seeds indoors six to eight weeks before the last expected frost date.

Indoors, plant seeds in containers or trays. Keep the containers at 80-90 F. (27-32 C.). until germination, then at 70 F. (21 C.). Use a heat mat if necessary; eggplant seeds won’t germinate in cold soil.

Move small plants outdoors after you’re sure frost has passed. Choose a spot with full sunlight and well-drained soil. Allow 18 to 24 inches (45.5-61 cm.) between plants. Dig a generous amount of well-rotted manure or compost into the soil before planting.

You can also add a small amount of balanced, general-purpose fertilizer or tomato fertilizer into the soil at planting time. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers, which may produce lush plants with few or no fruits. Sprinkle a small amount of fertilizer around the plants every month throughout the growing season. Eggplants are heavy feeders.

Water Nubia eggplants regularly, providing about an inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week. The plants may need a little extra moisture during hot, dry weather.

If you notice flea beetles on your Nubia eggplants, insecticidal soap spray usually takes care of the problem. You may have to reapply every week or two to maintain control.

That’s pretty much it for Nubia eggplant care. Once they’re ready for harvesting, you can enjoy the tasty fruit.

If you are interested in trying a new type of eggplant in your garden this year, consider Mangan eggplant (Solanum melongena ‘Mangan’). What is a Mangan eggplant? It’s an early Japanese eggplant variety with small, tender, egg-shaped fruits. For more Mangan eggplant information, read on. We’ll also give you tips on how to grow a Mangan eggplant.

What is a Mangan Eggplant?

If you have never heard of Mangan eggplant, it’s no surprise. The Mangan cultivar was new in 2018 when it was introduced into commerce for the very first time.

What is a Mangan eggplant? It’s a Japanese-type eggplant bearing shiny, dark purple fruit. Fruits are about 4 to 5 inches (10-12.5 cm.) long and 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) in diameter. The shape is something like an egg, although some fruit are larger on one end for more of a tear-drop shaped.

Those growing Mangan eggplants report that this plant produces a lot of fruit. The eggplants are relatively small but delicious for roasting. They are also said to be perfect for pickling. Each weighs about one pound (0.5 kg.). Don’t eat the leaves though. They are poisonous.

How to Grow a Mangan Eggplant

According to Mangan eggplant information, these plants grow to 18 to 24 inches (45.5-61 cm.) tall. They require at least 18 to 24 inches (45.5-61 cm.) of space between plants to give each room to grow to mature size.

Mangan eggplants prefer well-drained soil that is very acidic, slightly acidic, or neutral in pH. You will need to provide adequate water and occasional food.

If you are wondering how to grow a Mangan eggplant, it’s best if you sow the seeds indoors. They can be transplanted outside in springtime after the last frost. If you use this planting schedule, you will be able to harvest the ripe fruit in mid-July. Alternatively, start the plants outside in the middle of May. They will be ready to harvest at the beginning of August.

According to Mangan eggplant information, the minimum cold hardiness of these plants is 40 degrees F. (4 degrees C.) to 50 degrees F. (10 degrees C.) That’s why it is important not to sow them outdoors too early.

Like many other edible members of the Solanaceae family, eggplants are an excellent addition to the home garden. These large and heavy-yielding plants reward warm-season gardeners with delicious, fresh eggplant fruit. While diversity among different varieties of eggplant may not be as apparent as in other plants, open-pollinated varieties and newly introduced hybrids allow growers to find plants that will thrive in their home gardens. One hybrid, called ‘Orient Charm,’ produces beautiful, pinkish-purple, oblong fruits. Read on for tips on growing Orient Charm eggplants in the garden.

Orient Charm Eggplant Info

So, what is an Orient Charm eggplant? These plants are a hybrid cultivar of Asian eggplant. The oblong fruits are generally pinkish purple in color and reach sizes of around 8 inches (20.5 cm.). Maturing in as little as 65 days, this variety of eggplant is an excellent choice for gardeners with short growing seasons.

How to Grow Orient Charm Eggplants

The process of growing Orient Charm eggplants is very similar to that of growing other varieties. First, growers will need to decide how they want to start their eggplant. Orient Charm may be available as seedlings at garden centers in early spring. However, it is more likely that gardeners will need to start these plants from seed themselves.

Seeds can be started indoors using seed starting trays and grow lights about 6-8 weeks before the last predicted frost date of the season. To sow, fill the trays with seed starting mix. Add one or two seeds to each cell in the seed tray. Place the tray in a warm location and keep it consistently moist until germination takes place.

For many, germination may be improved with the help of a seed starting warming mat. Once the seeds have germinated, grow the plants in a sunny window until all chance of frost has passed in the garden. Lastly, begin the process of hardening off the plants and transplanting outdoors into their growing location.

Select a well-draining and amended garden bed that receives full sunlight, or plant in a deep container. Consistent and frequent watering throughout the season will also help to ensure even growth from plants. As growth continues, heavy bearing plants may require staking or the support of a trellis to remain upright.

In its native regions of Asia, eggplant has been cultivated and bred for centuries. This has resulted in different unique types and cultivars of eggplant. It is now available worldwide in all sorts of shapes and sizes, as well as colors. Some may produce bigger and brighter versions of the classic purple eggplant. Others may produce small oval white fruit that truly look like eggs. Some, like Ping Tung Long eggplant (Solanum melongena ‘Pingtung Long’), may produce long, slender fruits. Let’s take a closer look at this Ping Tung eggplant variety.

Ping Tung Eggplant Info

Ping Tung eggplant (also spelled Pingtung) is an heirloom plant originating from Ping Tung, Taiwan. The 2- to 4-foot (.61-1.21 m.) tall plants produce dozens of long, slender purple fruits. The fruit is about 12 inches (30 cm.) long and 2 inches (5 cm.) in diameter. Its tender skin is alight purple which darkens with maturity.

The fruit grows from green calyxes and have a pearly white flesh which is drier than most eggplants. It is described as sweet and tender to eat with a mild, never bitter, flavor.

In the kitchen, Ping Tung eggplant is ideal for cutting into uniform, bite-sized slices for all your favorite eggplant recipes. Because of the low moisture content in Ping Tung eggplant, it is not necessary to draw out any moisture within the fruit with salt before frying. The skin also remains tender, making it unnecessary to peel this eggplant variety. Ping Tung Long eggplant is also excellent for pickling or as a zucchini substitute in zucchini bread recipes.

How to Grow Ping Tung Eggplant

Though Ping Tung eggplant can get tall, plants are sturdy and bushy and rarely need staking or plant supports. They can tolerate wet or dry conditions and extreme heat, but are cold sensitive like most eggplant varieties.

In cool temperatures, Ping Tung eggplant seeds will not germinate and the plants will be stunted and unproductive. Ping Tung Long eggplant thrives in hot, sunny environments, making it an ideal eggplant to grow in hot, arid climates.

Ping Tung eggplant produces best when given a long, warm season. Seeds should be started indoors about 6-8 weeks before your region’s last expected frost. In warm conditions, seed should germinate in 7-14 days.

Young plants should be hardened off before placing in the garden, after all danger of frost has passed. Like all eggplants, Ping Tung eggplant variety requires full sun and fertile, well-draining soil.

Feed plants every two weeks with a mild organic fertilizer, such as compost tea. Ping Tung Long eggplant matures in about 60-80 days. Fruits are harvested when they are 11-14 inches (28-36 cm.) long and still shiny.

Like other garden fruits and vegetables, there are hundreds of different varieties of eggplant to grow in the garden. If you love to try new eggplant varieties, you may be interested in growing Barbarella eggplants. What is Barbarella eggplant? Read on for more information on the eggplant ‘Barbarella’ variety and see if this vegetable is for you.

Barbarella Eggplant Info

Eggplant ‘Barbarella’ is a variety of eggplant that may also be sold as Violetta di Sicilia. This variety originated in Italy. Barbarella eggplant produces five to six, medium-sized, one-pound (0.5 kg.) fruits on plants that grow about 24 inches (61 cm.) tall. These fruits have dark purple skin, with white to light pink hues, outlining their dark purple, lightly spiny calyx. The fruit is round, like a grapefruit or softball, with deep grooves and has creamy white flesh.

The 4- to 6-inch (10-15 cm.) diameter eggplants produced on this plant reportedly have an excellent, sweet, slightly nutty, flavor. It can be grilled, fried, or sautéed for use in classic eggplant dishes, such as eggplant parmesan. Barbarella is also ideal for roasting whole or hollowing out for use in stuffed eggplant dishes.

Eggplant is high in dietary fiber. It is beneficial for heart health and maintaining healthy cholesterol levels. The skin of eggplant also has natural antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. However, eggplants have a short storage life and are best used fresh or stored for only a couple of days in a cool dry place. When stored in the refrigerator, eggplants will quickly develop brown, water-soaked lesions.

Growing Barbarella Eggplants

Eggplants are extremely sensitive to cold and frost. Their seeds should be started indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date in your location. Even the seeds will not germinate if it is too cold. It may be necessary to use a seedling heat mat when growing Barbarella eggplants from seed.

Do not place eggplant plants outdoors until spring temperatures have steadied and be sure to harden off young plants before planting them in the garden. Grow eggplant Barbarella plants in full sun, infertile, well-draining soil. Plant eggplant successively to extend the season.

Eggplant ‘Barbarella’ matures in about 80-100 days. Fruits are harvested when they are about 4-6 inches (10-15 cm.) in diameter.

It is also important to note that eggplant is in the nightshade family and is susceptible to all the same diseases as other nightshades, such as tomatoes. With all nightshades, crop rotations with plants not belonging to the nightshade family is the best defense in preventing disease.

If you’re looking for an eggplant variety to grow in your garden or a container on your deck, consider Nadia. This is a traditional, black, Italian type with the shape of a teardrop. Fruits have glossy, and typically blemish-free skins. They’re prolific and long-term producers and an excellent choice for those who want lots of eggplant from their efforts. Read on for more Nadia eggplant information.

What is a Nadia Eggplant?

Nadia is an Italian eggplant that looks like a smaller type of the large, purple American eggplant. Italian eggplant, such as Nadia, have finer flesh and thinner skin, that may be cooked along with the meat of the fruit. In some markets, the size of the eggplant determines what it is called, but there are different types with real, though, sometimes slight differences.

Growing Nadia Eggplants

Growing Nadia eggplants is a great choice for those who have lots of recipes to try or wish to freeze the fruit. Ready in approximately 67 days from planting, each vine will produce several fruits. You may limit the number and increase their size by pinching out the growing points in some areas of the vine, according to Nadia eggplant information.

A heat-loving plant, eggplant needs growing conditions similar to those given to tomatoes and peppers. Full sun, planted in rich, well-draining soil is just what the growing vine needs. Provide support when planting the seedlings to avoid disturbing the root system and growing fruits. A cage may work best for this prolific producer. Keep the soil moist.

Plant Nadia when the soil has warmed in USDA zones 5 and higher. Those with shorter growing seasons, or who wish to stagger crops, may start seeds indoors up to two months before the soil has warmed enough to be planted. Nadia has an extended harvest time and is a good choice for shorter season gardens. This type continues to produce as temperatures cool.

Nadia and other eggplants are perennial plants that may produce more than one year if protected from frost and freeze. Learning how to grow Nadia eggplants and about Nadia eggplant care prepares you to grow other types.

Harvest the eggplants by cutting instead of trying to pull them off. Blanch eggplant before freezing or freeze it when cooked. Eggplant is often breaded and fried for use in casserole type dishes, such as Eggplant Parmesan. It also may be seasoned and grilled.

Perhaps you’re new to eggplant, both cooking and growing it. It is an attractive plant producing a nutritious edible fruit. You may even grow it in a container and put it in a prominent location, if desired. There are numerous Italian eggplant varieties to grow and multiple ways to cook them.

What is an Italian Eggplant?

Many varieties of eggplant are available, with the Italian type often used for popular culinary dishes. There is one called Baby eggplant, more tender and tasty than most others. Eggplant Parmesan is a classic for Italian eggplant uses, along with a favorite dish called Eggplant Rollatini and one called Caponata. Some Italian types are larger and provide a substantial amount of meat (what the edible part is called).

There are early, mid-season, and late producers. There are white ones, purple ones, and some with striped or mottled skin. Most have a roundish or irregular fat shape, but Lunga Violetta is cylindrical and thin, shaped almost like a pepper. The skin is deep purple and the meat is a creamy color, tasting nutty and rich. It is an heirloom variety and grows in the garden in USDA zone 5 and all the way south.

Eggplant is good for you. It contains the flavanoid anthocyanin, the plant pigment that makes blueberries blue and helps make them a super-food. Foods containing anthocyanin often lower blood pressure significantly and possibly even prevent cancer. Italian eggplant contains Vitamin C and B6 along with potassium and fiber.

Italian Eggplant Growing

These plants need conditions similar to those provided for tomatoes and peppers. Eggplant is a vining plant, often producing a dozen fruits per vine. If you limit the fruits by pinching out growing points, those left will be bigger with the plant’s energy directed to them. Italian eggplants need staking, so locate a sturdy stake or cage early on for each plant before fruits form.

Plant seedlings in the sunny garden when the soil has warmed. You may purchase seedlings or start plants from seed indoors for the best Italian eggplant variety selection. Especially in areas with short growing seasons, start seeds inside two months before you anticipate temperatures to warm the garden soil. You may also plant into large containers, at least five gallons. Use dark colored pots to draw the sun to these heat lovers. Full sun is necessary for proper Italian eggplant growing.

Plant seedlings in rich soil, amended with well-composted materials. Work in a tablespoon (15 mL.) of 10-10-10 or use pelleted fertilizer with along-term release. Keep the soil consistently moist, not soggy. When fruits begin to develop, fertilize weekly to twice a month with a high potassium fertilizer or use compost tea.

Some Italian eggplant sources indicate the fruit may be ready in 70 days; however, others say the harvest is 16 to 24 weeks after planting. Learn this information about your particular type before planting. You’ll know eggplant is ripe when it no longer bounces back from the gentle push of your finger.

Varieties of Italian Eggplant

You may choose seeds of these Italian types:

Purple

• Dancer
• Traviata (organic)
• Beatrice

White

• Clara
• Aretussa
• Paloma

Multi-color

• Barbarella
• Nubia
• Rosa Bianca
• Angela

Black

• Jaylo
• Nadia
• Galene

The eggplant is native to India and Pakistan and is in the nightshade family, along with other vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers, and tobacco. Eggplant was first cultivated and domesticated about 4,000 years ago. It may surprise you to learn that these original garden eggplants bore small, white, egg-shaped fruits, hence the common name eggplant. Eggplant varieties were first crossbred for different fruit color and shape in China, and the new resulting varieties were instant hits. Breeding new varieties of eggplant gained popularity all over the world. For centuries, deep purple to black varieties were all the rage. Today, however, it is varieties which are pure white, or have white striping or mottling, that are highly coveted. Continue reading for a list of eggplants that are white and tips on growing white eggplants.

Growing White Eggplants

As with any common garden vegetables these days, there are a plethora of eggplant cultivars available in seed or young plants. In my own garden, I always like to grow a classic purple variety alongside other different eggplant varieties. White eggplant cultivars always catch my eye, and I have yet to be disappointed by their flavor, texture, and versatility in dishes. Growing white eggplant is no different than growing any eggplant cultivar. Since eggplant is in the Solanium, or nightshade family, it will be susceptible to the same diseases and pests as tomatoes, potatoes, and peppers. Gardens that have experienced problems with common nightshades diseases, such as blight, should be rotated with crops that are not in the nightshade family or allowed to lie fallow before planting eggplant or other Solaniums. For example, following an outbreak of blight, plant only legumes or cruciferous vegetables in that garden space for three to five years. Legumes or cruciferous vegetables, such as cabbage or lettuce, will not host nightshade diseases and will also add nitrogen or potassium to the garden.

Common White Eggplant Varieties

Here are some of the more popular varieties of pure white eggplant, as well as mottled or striped white eggplant cultivars:

• Casper – long, zucchini-shaped fruit with solid white skin
• Clara – long, thin, white fruit
• Japanese White Egg – medium sized, round, pure white fruit
• Cloud Nine – long, slender, pure white fruit
• Lao White – small, round, white fruit
• Little Spooky – long, thin, curved, pure white fruit
• Bianca di Imola – long, medium sized, white fruit
• Bride – white to rose colored long, slender fruit
• Crescent Moon – long, skinny, creamy white fruit
• Gretel – small to medium, round, creamy white fruit
• Ghostbuster – long, slender, white fruit
• Snowy White – medium, oval-shaped white fruits
• Chinese White Sword – long, thin, straight white fruit
• Long White Angel – long, thin, white fruit
• White Beauty – large, oval-shaped white fruit
• Tango – long, straight, thick, white fruit
• Thai White Ribbed – unique flat, white fruit with deep ribbing
• Opal – teardrop-shaped, medium, white fruit
• Panda – round, light green to white fruit
• White Ball – round, white fruit with green hues
• Italian White – white to light green, common eggplant shaped fruit
• Sparrow's Brinjal – small, round, light green to white fruit
• Rotonda Bianca Sfumata di Rosa – medium sized, round white fruit with pink hues
• Apple Green – creamy white to pale green egg-shaped fruits
• Orient Charm – slender, long, white to light pink fruit
• Italian Pink Bicolor – creamy white fruit that matures to a rose pink
• Rosa Blanca – small white circular fruit with purple blush
• Fairytale – small, round, white fruit with violet stripes
• Behold – violet purple, round fruit with white stripes
• Listade De Ganda – egg-shaped purple fruit with wide, irregular white streaks
• Blue Marble – round, grapefruit sized fruit with purple and white mottling
• Easter Egg – miniature ornamental eggplant with hen sized egg-shaped white fruit that matures to yellow, cream, and orange shades

As a beginning gardener, one of the most exciting aspects of planning a vegetable garden is the hope of growing one’s favorite foods. Homegrown crops, such as eggplants, offer growers harvests of high quality, delectable produce. However, for some, the process of learning to grow these crops may feel somewhat intimidating. Luckily, with some basic growing knowledge, even novice growers are able to reap the benefits of their hard work in the garden. Read on for tips on growing Black Beauty eggplants.

What is a Black Beauty Eggplant?

As one of the most popular cultivars, Black Beauty eggplant info abounds. Dating back to the early 1900's, this variety of open-pollinated and heirloom eggplant has been a favorite for vegetable gardeners throughout decades. When picked at peak maturity, these large glossy fruits offer impressive yields. Early to mature, Black Beauty eggplants are a well-suited option for those with shorter growing seasons. Additionally, compact and upright plants make them an ideal candidate for container culture.

How to Grow a Black Beauty Eggplant

The process of growing Black Beauty eggplant is very similar to that of growing other varieties of eggplant. First, growers will need to obtain seedlings for transplant into the garden or a package of seed. Since Black Beauty is very popular, it is likely that growers will be able to find these plants at local garden centers. Eggplants thrive in warm weather and will not tolerate frost. Transplants should not be planted into the garden until all chance of frost has passed. Due to their long growing season and initial slow growth, Black Beauty seed should be started indoors at least eight to ten weeks before the average last frost date. To sow, fill the trays with seed starting mix. Add one or two seeds to each cell in the seed tray. Place the tray in a warm location and keep it consistently moist until germination takes place. This may take several weeks. For many, germination may be improved with the help of a seed starting warming mat. Once the seeds have germinated, grow them in a sunny window or with grow lights until time to harden off the plants and transplant outdoors. Select a well-draining and amended garden bed which receives full sunlight or plant in a deep container. Beyond planting, ensure that the area remains weed free. Consistent and frequent watering throughout the season will also help to ensure even growth from plants. Growers living in cooler summer areas may benefit from the use of black landscape fabrics and row covers, as eggplants require a very warm summer climate.

The Cannibal Tomato eggplant, is it an eggplant or a tomato? Exactly what is a Cannibal's tomato? Cannibal tomato is not a tomato at all but actually an eggplant. Eggplant (Solanum melongena) is a member of the genus Solanum, and is related to the tomato and potato. Eggplant was originally domesticated from the wild nightshade species bitter apple, S. incanum, with two separate domestications: one in South Asia and one in East Asia. Cannibal Tomato eggplant (S. uporo) is a gorgeous plant that is a rabid producer of shiny green and red fruit. The small fruit, about 3 inches (8 cm.) across, resemble adorable little pumpkins or some folks say tomatoes, hence the name. The plant hails from Fiji and Tahiti.

Cannibal Tomato Eggplant Info

Cannibal Tomato eggplants have a macabre history. The story is that the native Fijians, who have practiced cannibalism for thousands of years, used the fruit to create a delicious sauce that apparently pairs very well with human flesh. Apparently these Fijians had a more hardy palate than modern day folks. Turns out that eggplant is bitter, very bitter! The bitterness is due to the substance solanine. Solanine is toxic and is also found in the green part of potatoes. In the case of most eggplants, only very ripe eggplant is generally used, but in the case of Cannibal Tomato types, regardless of maturity, the fruit is indescribably bitter. There are a couple of ways to supposedly lessen the bitterness of eggplant. First, buy mature, ripe eggplants. Soak the sliced fruit in warm salt water for a couple of hours, rinse, and soak again in tap water prior to using. The fruit must then be cooked until well done, which means enough to break down the fibers and leech out the poison. Peeling the fruit is also supposed to lessen the bitter flavor. I have also read that soaking in buttermilk, as you would in salted water above, works as well to remove the bitterness.

Growing Cannibal Tomato Eggplants

So, the Fijians supposedly grew Cannibal Tomato eggplants to pair with human flesh, but they also cooked the greens of the plant too, apparently something to offer to their vegetarian friends? At any rate, growing Cannibal Tomato eggplant, rarity that it is, isn't hard. They are easy to grow when provided with a sunny, well-draining site with fertile soil of a pH 6.3-6.8. Mulch around the plants to retain moisture and retard weeds. Water the plants consistently. Spit spot watering will contribute to that bitter flavor. Because Cannibal Tomato eggplants are such prolific producers, provide them with a support of stakes or even a tomato cage. Since these eggplants are so bitter, many people grow them as a novelty and they certainly have some interesting folklore to go with them. If you dare to make a sauce from Cannibal Tomato eggplants, I've read that human flesh tastes like veal. (This, of course, is meant as a joke!)

Anthracnose is a very common vegetable, fruit, and occasionally ornamental plant disease. It is caused by a fungus known as Colletotrichum. Eggplant colletotrichum fruit rot affects the skin initially and can progress to the interior of the fruit. Certain weather and cultural conditions can encourage its formation. It is very contagious, but the good news is that it can be prevented in some cases and controlled if confronted early enough.

Symptoms of Colletotrichum Eggplant Rot

Colletotrichum eggplant rot occurs when leaves are wet for a long period of time, usually around 12 hours. The causal agent is a fungus that is most active during warm, wet periods, either from rainfall in spring or summer or from overhead watering. Several Colletotrichum fungi cause anthracnose in a variety of plants. Learn the signs of eggplant anthracnose and what you can do to prevent this disease. The first evidence of this disease in eggplants are small lesions on the skin of the fruit. These are usually smaller than a pencil eraser and circular to angular. Tissue is sunken around the lesion and the interior is tan with fleshy ooze which is the spore of the fungus. When fruits are extremely diseased, they will drop from the stem. The fruit becomes dry and black unless soft rot bacteria get inside where it becomes mushy and decays. The entire fruit is inedible and the spores spread rapidly from rain splash or even wind. The fungus that causes eggplant colletotrichum fruit rot overwinters in leftover plant debris. It begins to grow when temperatures are 55 to 95 degrees F. (13-35 C.). The fungal spores need moisture to grow. This is why the disease is most rampant in fields where overhead watering occurs or warm, rainfall is persistent. Plants that retain moisture on fruit and leaves for a long period promote growth.

Colletotrichum Control

Infected plants spread the disease. The eggplant anthracnose can also survive in seeds, so it is important to select disease free seed and not to save seed from infected fruit. Disease symptoms can occur on young fruit but are more common on mature eggplant. In addition to careful seed selection, removal of the previous season's plant debris is also important. Crop rotation can also be helpful but be wary of planting any other plants from the nightshade family where infected eggplants once grew. Application of fungicides early in the season can help prevent many outbreaks. Some growers also recommend a post-harvest fungicide dip or a hot water bath. Harvest fruits before they are overripe to prevent the spread of the disease and remove any that show signs of infection promptly. Good sanitation and seed sourcing are the best methods of colletotrichum control.

If you are seeking a sweet, densely fleshed, medium to large eggplant, look no further than Mitoyo. Picture chubby, round to oval, glossy, black-skinned fruits that are absolutely adorable and delicious. This variety is native to Japan and grown primarily in Kanonji and Mitoyo provinces. Not only is the flavor memorable, but the plant is striking and could be grown as an ornamental.

What is a Mitoyo Eggplant?

Mitoyo produces a commercially large, dark fruit. It was originally discovered in a market in Japan and seed was saved. It is now widely available to grow and has a milder, sweeter flavor than Western varieties. Mitoyo eggplant info describes the cooked flesh as creamy and subtle. The fruits can be up to a pound (.45 kg.) in weight when fully mature. They can also be picked when smaller, but tend to have a hint of bitterness. The hefty fruits accept a host of flavors and work well in many ethnic dishes. Eggplants can be steamed, fried, grilled, baked, pickled or eaten raw. Additionally, eggplant has been shown to be a brain food. It contains a phytonutrient called nasunin, which has been found to protect fats in brain cells. It is also a powerful antioxidant.

Mitoyo Eggplant Info

Mitoyo eggplants can grow waist high and produce fruit much like their cousin the tomato. Fruits hang from the stems in an ornamental fashion. The biggest complaint is the damage done by flea beetles to the large leaves and occasional attacks by Japanese beetles. Eggplants produce the best fruits in late summer, but Mitoyo can produce wonderful eggplant into fall provided an early freeze doesn't destroy the plants. Mitoyo eggplants should be left on the stem to ripen fully if you wish to save seed. The variety is also known to be a strong and vigorous producer of fruit. Mitoyo fruits look a bit like the classic Black Beauty variety but a bit more on the purple side and more rounded with creamy green flesh.

Growing Mitoyo Eggplant

Eggplants grow quickly from seed. Mitoyo eggplant needs 85 days from sowing to maturity. In temperate to cooler regions, it is best to start seed indoors 6 to 8 weeks before setting plants out. Seedlings do not react well to transplanting, so it is best to start them in small compostable cells or pots. Keep soil moderately moist. Prepare the soil before planting out by adding plenty of compost and loosening it deeply. If necessary, perform a soil test for pH. Eggplants prefer a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.0. Space plants 3 feet (.91 m.) apart to allow plenty of air circulation and room for growth. Fertilize every two weeks with compost tea or other organic liquid nutrients. If fruit becomes too heavy for the stems, stake them up to prevent breakage and keep fruit from soil contact where slugs and insects can damage them. Harvest fruit any time they are large enough to eat and enjoy.

Eggplants are big, very productive plants that can grow for years if they’re protected from the cold. Sometimes, though, they need some help, especially as they get older, to reach their full fruiting potential. Keep reading to learn more about whether eggplant pruning is right for you, and how to prune an eggplant.

Should I Prune My Eggplants?

This is a common question, and it really depends upon your preference and your location. If you live in a cold climate and are growing eggplants as annuals, pruning is less necessary. With adequate protection from frost, however, eggplants will grow for several years. This means they can get very large, and sometimes more than a little leggy or worn out. To ensure a strong plant and maximum fruit production, eggplant pruning is a good idea in the long term.

How to Prune an Eggplant

Pruning eggplant stems is best done when the plant is established and has already borne some fruit. If your plant has already gone through a period of production and seems like it’s starting to peter off, this is a good time to do some trimming. When pruning eggplant, the traditional shape to go for has three stems. You should leave the first main division, where the first two stems diverge from the base, as well as one other strong stem. Remove all others. This can seem a little drastic at first, but the plant should come back from it quickly with a new batch of leafy growth and fruit.

Pruning Eggplant Suckers

Even if you don’t want to cut back your eggplant drastically, it’s a good idea to remove suckers. These are the little stems that sprout from the base of the plant and from the points of branch division, much the same as tomato suckers. Pinching off these suckers when they’re small will allow the plant to focus more of its energy on fruit production, resulting in larger, more impressive eggplants.

Rotting of eggplant fruits in your garden is a sad sight to see. You nurtured your plants all spring and summer, and now they’re infected and unusable. Colletotrichum fruit rot is a fungal infection that can cause serious losses in eggplant harvests.

About Colletotricum Fruit Rot

This fungal infection is caused by a species called Colletotrichum melongenae. The disease is also known as anthracnose fruit rot, and it is prevalent in temperate and sub-tropical climates. The infection usually strikes in fruits that are overly ripe or that are weakened in some other way. Warm and humid conditions especially favor the infection and its spread. So, what do eggplants with Colletotrichum rot look like? Fruit rot in eggplants begins with small lesions on the fruits. Over time, they grow and merge into each other to create larger lesions. They look like sunken spots on the fruit, and in the center, you will see a flesh-colored area that is full of fungal spores. This area has been described as fungal “ooze.” If the infection becomes severe, the fruit will drop.

Controlling Eggplant Fruit Rot

This type of fruit rot is not likely to occur, or at least not severely, if you give your plants the right conditions. For instance, avoid overhead watering, like with a sprinkler, when the fruit is ripening. The sitting moisture can cause an infection to set in. Also, avoid letting fruit ripen too much before harvesting it. The infection is more likely to take root in overripe fruits. This then makes other fruits susceptible. At the end of the growing season, pull out any infected plants and destroy them. Don’t add them to your compost or you risk allowing the fungus to overwinter and infect plants next year. You can also use fungicides to manage this infection. With eggplant fruit rot, fungicides are typically applied preventatively when the climate conditions are right for an infection or if you know that your garden may be contaminated by the fungus.

Early blight on eggplants can ruin your fall crop of this vegetable. When the infection becomes severe, or when it persists from year to year, it can significantly reduce the harvest. Know the signs of early blight and how to prevent it and treat it before it takes over your vegetable garden.

What is Early Blight?

Early blight is a fungal infection caused by the fungus Alternaria solani. While early blight is one of the most common diseases seen in tomatoes, it also affects eggplants, potatoes, and peppers. Early blight usually results from contamination with infected plants or infected plant debris, or from plants being too close together without enough air circulation.

Alternaria Symptoms in Eggplant

One of the earliest signs of eggplant early blight is the presence of brown spots on the leaves. Once they appear, they grow quickly and develop a concentric ring pattern as well as a yellow ring around the edges of the brown. These spots will eventually merge together and completely destroy the leaves. The spots start developing on the lower leaves and work up the plant. The disease can also affect the eggplants themselves. As the leaves die, for instance, the fruits become more vulnerable to scalding under the sun. The fruits may also begin to develop dark spots from the infection, and this can also lead to premature dropping of the eggplants.

Saving Eggplants with Early Blight

Eggplant early blight is very tough to beat once it has started. The spores of the Alternaria fungus travel on the wind, so the infection can spread easily. The best way to beat it is through prevention, but if your eggplants have been hit, there are some things you can do to spare your harvest:

• Remove as much of the affected foliage as you can.
• Thin the plants even more to allow for better airflow. The infection thrives in damp conditions.
• Keeping weeds out of the garden can also increase airflow.
• Increase fertilization to promote better fruit growth.
• For severe early blight infections, or repeated infections from one year to the next, consider using a copper spray.

Eggplant Blight Control

When growing eggplant in the garden, it helps to be aware of the risk of early blight and to take steps to minimize the chances an infection will take root. Space your plants adequately to allow for airflow and water only at the roots, keeping leaves dry. As the plants grow and fruit begins to develop, remove the lowest three to four leaf branches. Use fertilizer to strengthen plants and control weeds for good airflow. Eggplant early blight has the potential to become an insidious infection, but with the right management, you can avoid it or minimize it and still get your harvest.

Verticillium wilt is a common pathogen among many varieties of plants. It has over 300 host families, spanning edibles, ornamentals, and evergreens. Eggplant verticillium wilt is devastating to the crop. It can survive for years in soil and overwinter even in severe weather regions. Plants in the nightshade family, such as tomatoes, eggplant, and potatoes are all adversely affected. The symptoms mimic those of several other diseases, so it is important to know them completely and make an accurate diagnosis.

Symptoms for Eggplants with Verticillium Wilt

Verticillium wilt in eggplants is caused by a fungus that lives and overwinters in the soil for years. It not only occurs in nightshades but also cucurbits, evergreens, herbs, flowering ornamentals, and even trees. The disease attacks vascular tissue, disrupting the movement of nutrients and water. Over time, the plant will become stunted, fail to produce useable fruit, and eventually die. The plant material is still very contagious and has to be destroyed rather than go into the compost heap. Yellowing, wilting eggplants are the first sign that something is wrong. Young plants become stunted with leaves that are too small and yellowish-green. The disease can splash up on leaves, which means those closest to the soil line are generally first to show signs of infection. Leaves fade at the edges, roll inward, and eventually turn brown and dry. The disease will progress to other leaves and stems, and finally the root system. The fungus produces a toxin that gums up the vascular system, preventing the movement of water. Unlike fusarium rot, yellows, and bacterial wilt, verticillium prefers to linger in temperate regions where the soil is cool. Vascular streaking in leaves and stems can help differentiate eggplant verticillium wilt from other common diseases.

Preventing Verticillium Wilt in Eggplants

Annual cleanup is an effective way of reducing the possibility of re-infection. Old plant material is a host for the pathogen and should be destroyed. Crop rotation may be beneficial, especially with nightshade hosts. Keep weeds out of the area, since some are also hosts to the disease. As always, prevent contaminating fields by washing tires and cleaning tools and other equipment. Solarization of a soil area may also control the fungus. If at all possible, get hold of resistant varieties. These will have a “V” marked on the seed packet. The cultivars 'Classic' and 'Epic' seem to have some good resistance to the disease.

Treatments for Wilting Eggplants

Unfortunately, there are no easy-to-use chemicals to spray on your garden bed or field. After testing to ensure that the disease really is caused by verticillium, licensed applicators are required to handle the recommended chemicals. A soil fumigant is the most common application. The fungicide, benomyl, has been shown to be useful as a transplant dip to reduce contamination but it is only useful initially and cannot protect roots after the plant has gone into contaminated soil. Eggplants with verticillium wilt are difficult to treat. Better still are preventative measures such as resistant varieties, sanitation practices, sterilized soil, and removal of host plants.

When growing eggplants in the garden, it isn’t uncommon to have issues now and then. One of these may include phomopsis blight. What is phomopsis blight of eggplant? Eggplant leaf spot and fruit rot, caused by the fungus Phomopsis vexans, is a destructive fungal disease that affects primarily fruit, stems, and leaves. Left uncontrolled, phomopsis blight in eggplants can cause the fruit to rot and become inedible. Read on for more information about blight in eggplants.

Symptoms of Eggplant Phomopsis Blight

On seedlings, phomopsis blight of eggplant causes dark brown lesions, just above the soil line. As the disease develops, the lesions turn gray, and the stems eventually collapse and the plant dies. Blight in eggplants on established plants is evidenced by gray or brown, oval or round spots on the leaves and stems. The center of the spots lightens in color, and you can see circles of small black, pimple-like dots that are actually the fruiting bodies, or spores. On fruit, phomopsis blight of eggplant begins with pale, sunken spots that may eventually take over the entire fruit. Tiny, black spots are visible in abundance.

Causes of Eggplant Leaf Spot and Fruit Rot

The tiny black spores of phomopsis blight live in the soil and spread quickly by rain splashing and overhead irrigation. Phomopsis also spreads easily on contaminated equipment. The disease is particularly favored by hot, damp weather conditions. Optimum temperatures for spread of disease is 84 to 90 degrees F. (29-32 C.).

Managing Blight in Eggplants

Destroy infected plant material and debris immediately to prevent spread. Never place infected plant matter in your compost pile. Plant resistant eggplant varieties and disease-free seeds. Allow 24 to 36 inches (61-91 cm.) between plants to provide ample air circulation. Water early in the day to allow foliage and fruit to dry before evening. Rotate crops every three to four years. Various fungicides may be helpful when used with the above methods of control. Spray at fruit set and repeat every ten days to two weeks until the eggplants are nearly mature. Experts at your local cooperative extension office can advise you about the best products and specific uses for your area.

I have to admit I hate eggplant. Although it has value in a number of cuisines, the fruits can be too mushy and sweet for my palate. However, a cute little member of the family, Striped Toga eggplant, is both edible and an ornamental plant. A native of Africa, this eggplant is charming in its appearance and produces lovely little bushes decorated with small golden orange-yellow striped fruits. Growing Striped Toga plants requires a United States Department of Agriculture zone of 10 or higher, or early indoor starting and transplant to successfully produce fruits.

Striped Toga Eggplant History

Solanum aethiopicum is the scientific designation for Striped Toga, although Seed Savers has it listed as Solanum melongena. The spelling, too, may be found as Striped Togo with an "o" rather than an "a" depending on who you talk to. A little Striped Toga eggplant history can help identify its growing needs, however. This small fruit hails from sub-Saharan Africa and is known there as scarlet or African eggplant. In warmer regions, the plant is a perennial, but for northern gardeners, it will be an annual specimen. Older plants will be semi-woody but annuals are herbaceous. The plant produces a compact, low-growing shrub of between 3 and 6 feet in height with a similar spread. Just like tomatoes, eggplants can be determinate or indeterminate in bloom time. Striped Toga is indeterminate, which means they will bloom and set fruit throughout the season. But, unlike indeterminate tomatoes, this eggplant doesn't usually require staking. Heirloom eggplants and other vegetables are all the rage. Finding that unique seed which has stood the test of time is an unapologetic habit for many gardeners. Striped Toga is a pure strain of the African variety, and the fruits are said to be sweet and tasty, although some say there is a lingering bitterness. Whether you love to eat eggplant or simply want to grow something new, Striped Toga will delight your eyes even if you don't use the fruit. The fruits are 1 to 3 inches long, oblong and start out yellow, transitioning to green and finally glorious ripe golden orange with distinctive green stripes. The leaves are large, lobed and bluish green. Some parts of the plant may develop thorns. The lavender 5-petaled flowers add to the plant's seasonal appeal.

Growing Striped Toga Plants

Striped toga should be started indoors 8 weeks before the date of the last frost. It can take 75 to 85 days after transplant for usable fruits, so take that into consideration when planning to add this eggplant to your garden. Plant seeds ¼ to ½ inch deep and 18 to 24 inches apart. Striped Toga is a heavy feeder. The planting bed should have plenty of organic matter incorporated to fulfill the plant's needs. It also needs consistent moisture to produce the biggest fruits; however, avoid overhead watering which can lead to fungal diseases on leaves. With some careful planning, even temperate region gardeners can be enjoying the succulent flesh and cartoonish appeal of these sweet little eggplants by the end of summer.

If you've ever grown eggplant, you probably realize that supporting eggplants is imperative. Why do eggplant plants need support? Fruit comes in several sizes depending upon the variety but staking eggplants regardless of size will also retard disease while allowing for optimal growth and yield. Read on to learn about eggplant support ideas.

Do Eggplant Plants Need Support?

Yes, it's wise to create a support for eggplants. Staking eggplant keeps the fruit from touching the ground, which in turn, reduces the risk of disease and fosters fruit shape, especially for elongated eggplant varieties. Eggplants are also prone to falling over when heavily laden with fruit, so supporting your eggplants will protect them from potential damage and fruit loss. Staking eggplant also makes for easier harvesting.

Eggplant Support Ideas

Eggplants are botanically related to tomatoes, with which they pair beautifully. Eggplants are native to India and China but were brought to southern Europe and the Mediterranean by Arabic Traders. Luckily for us, they were then introduced into North America. Eggplants are delicious stuffed and hold up well on the grill. Eggplants are bushy plants with large leaves borne on woody stems. Some varieties can attain heights of up to 4 ½ feet (1.5 m.). Fruit varies in size with large, fruited cultivars over a pound (453 g.) in weight while the smaller varieties tend to be especially heavy bearers. For this reason alone, providing a support for eggplants is vital. Ideally, you want to stake eggplant when it is small-- at seedling stage when it has a few leaves or at transplanting time. Staking requires a support that is 3/8 to 1 inch (1-2.5 cm.) thick and 4 to 6 feet long (1-2 m.). This can consist of wooden, or metal rods coated with plastic, but really anything can be used. Maybe you have something lying around that can be repurposed. Drive a stake of any type an inch or two (2.5-5 cm.) away from the plant. Use garden twine, old laces, or pantyhose looped around the plant and the stake to support it. You could also use a tomato cage, of which there are several types. If you're of the forgetful ilk or tend to be lazy, then it's likely that your plants have reached a size that is rapidly getting out of hand, and you haven’t staked them. You can still stake the plants; you just need to be a bit more careful. In this case, the stake should be about 6 feet (2 m.) long because you'll need to get 2 feet (61 cm.) into the soil to support the large size of the plant (you may need to use a mallet to get the stake down that deep.). This leaves you 4 feet (1 m.) to work with staking the eggplant. Place the stake 1 to 1 ½ inches (2.5-4 cm.) near the plants and carefully begin to pound into the ground. Try the other side if you meet with resistance. Resistance is likely the root system of the eggplant and you don’t want to damage it. Once the stake is in the ground, tie the plant back below any stems or branches. Don’t tie too tightly, as you may damage the plant. Leave a little slack to account for growth. Keep checking the plant as it grows. You will most likely have to continue to tie the plant back as it gains in height.

If you are a gardener who enjoys a challenge and gets pleasure out of growing your own food from scratch, then saving seeds from eggplant will be right up your alley. Follow the guidelines listed below and grow your own delicious eggplants every year.

How to Save Eggplant Seeds

The most important thing to remember regarding saving seeds from eggplant is to start with open-pollinated plants. Open pollination is pollination by wind, insects, birds, or other natural causes. If you use seeds from a hybrid eggplant, it won't work. Look at the plant label on the container or ask someone at the nursery if you have an open-pollinated plant. When you're collecting eggplant seeds, grow only one type of eggplant in a given area. This is because eggplants that are cross-pollinated produce genetically variable seeds and possibly inedible fruit the following year. Keep your particular eggplant variety at least 50 feet (15 m.) away from any other type of eggplants to ensure you get the same kind.

Collecting Eggplant Seeds

Wait until the eggplant is overripe and inedible before you start collecting eggplant seeds. The eggplant should look dull and off colored. Overripe purple eggplants turn tan or brown while white and green eggplants take on a yellowish hue. An overripe eggplant is typically hard and shriveled. Slice open the eggplant and separate the flesh from the seeds. Put the seeds in a bowl of water and wash the pulp away. Strain the seeds, pat them dry, and spread them out on a tray to dry not more than two seeds thick.

Tips on Saving Eggplant Seeds for Next Year

There are a number of important eggplant seed saving tips you must follow if you want viable seeds to plant the following spring. Make sure the seeds are thoroughly dry before you store them. Put them in a cool place out of the sun where the humidity can be maintained between 20 and 40 percent. The drying process may take two to four weeks. After you put the seeds in a jar for the winter, watch for moisture build up in the jar. If you see the jar sweating, your seeds are too wet and at risk of becoming moldy and useless. Add some silica gel capsules or another desiccant imminently to save wet seeds. If you choose not to store them in a jar, you'll need to figure out a way to protect your seeds from insects. Consider a sturdy zip-locking plastic bag in this case, but ensure the seeds are completely dry. If you have ever wondered how to save eggplant seeds, you now know that it isn’t very difficult. You just need to protect your open-pollinated eggplant variety from cross-pollination, harvest when the seeds are mature, and dry thoroughly. It’s fun! Your eggplant growing independence is just ahead of you.

Eggplants are native to India and require a long and warm growing season for optimal yields. They also need the appropriate eggplant distance in gardens to achieve the greatest production. So how far apart to space eggplants for maximum yields and healthy plants? Read on to learn more.

Proper Eggplant Spacing

Eggplant has a growth habit similar to that of a tomato; however, eggplants are planted closer together than tomato plants and some varieties don't need to be staked. There are even smaller eggplant varietals and ornamentals that can be grown in containers. Either way, the proper spacing between eggplants can be crucial in the amount of fruit they set.

How Far Apart to Space Eggplant?

Whenever you plant a garden, some consideration and planning should occur in deciding where to set certain plants and drafting how far apart they need to be to maximize the use of the plot. Plants set far apart waste much needed space in the garden, while those set too close together vie for light and air, effectively decreasing your potential crop. Plant your six to eight week old eggplant starts outside after all danger of frost has passed in your area. Choose a site that gets at least six hours of full sun per day-- more is preferable. Eggplant distance in the garden should be 18 to 30 inches (46-76 cm.) apart. Two feet (61 cm.) apart is fine, although 2 ½ feet (76 cm.) apart will keep you from accidentally breaking branches as you are harvesting your eggplant fruits. If you are planting lots of eggplant and need rows, leave an area 30 to 36 inches (76-91 cm.) between the rows. If you are short on space but adore eggplants and want to plant your own, plant them in containers on a sunny deck or patio. Single eggplants can be planted in a 5-gallon container (19 L.). Multiple plantings can go in a long planter with at least 18 inches (46 cm.) of width. In this case, space the eggplants 18 to 24 inches (46-61 cm.) apart or for dwarf varieties, 16 to 18 inches (41-46 cm.) apart. If you wish to companion plant among the eggplant, for instance, with nitrogen-boosting legumes, leave enough space for both plants-- about 18 to 30 inches (46-76 cm.) from each plant. For blooming annuals, plant 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm.) from the base of the eggplant. Once you have transplanted your eggplant babies, fertilize and use nitrogen-rich side dressing around the plants, again when they are half grown and one more time right after you harvest the first fruit.

Eggplant can be considered to be a rather high maintenance plant. Not only does it require tons of sun, but eggplant needs additional nutrition beyond what it gets from the soil and consistent watering. Additionally, they are prone to insect attacks. There are, however, companion plants for eggplant that will make the prospect of growing them a bit less complicated.

What to Grow with Eggplants

Eggplants need to absorb a significant amount of nitrogen, hence the use of additional fertilizer, but planting eggplant companions such as annual legumes (like peas and beans), will help eggplants since these veggies leach additional nitrogen into the surrounding soil. If you grow trellised beans or peas, be sure to situate your eggplant in the forefront so they won't be shaded and alternate rows of legumes with rows of eggplant. Growing bush green beans as a companion planting with eggplant has a dual purpose. Bush beans also repel the Colorado potato beetle, a great connoisseur of eggplant. Herbs are also eggplant companions useful for bug repellents. French tarragon, for instance, will ward off any number of pesky insects while thyme deters garden moths. Mexican marigold will repel beetles from the eggplants, but it is toxic to beans, so you'll have to choose one or the other as companion plants for eggplant.

Additional Eggplant Companions

A number of other veggies make excellent companion plantings with eggplant. Among these are other members of the nightshade family:

• Peppers, both sweet and hot, make good companion plants, as they have the same growing needs and are susceptible to the same pests and diseases.
• Tomatoes are often used as eggplant companions. Again, be sure not to shade the eggplant.
• Potatoes and spinach are also said to make great companion plantings too. With regards to spinach, the spinach may actually have the better part of the partnership, as the taller eggplant serves as a sun shade for the cool weather spinach.

Blossom end rot is in eggplant is a common disorder also found in other members of the family Solanaceae, such as tomatoes and peppers, and less commonly in cucurbits. What exactly causes a rotten bottom in eggplants and is there a way to prevent eggplant blossom rot?

What is Eggplant Blossom Rot?

BER, or blossom end rot, can be extremely damaging, but at first it may not be very noticeable. As it progresses, it becomes obvious as your eggplants are turning black on end. First, though, the symptoms of BER begin as a small water-soaked area at the blossom end (bottom) of the fruit and can occur when the fruit is still green or during the ripening phase. Soon lesions develop and get larger, becoming sunken, black, and leathery to the touch. The lesion may only appear as a rotten bottom in the eggplants or it may cover the entire lower half of the eggplant and even extend into the fruit. BER may afflict fruit, causing eggplants with rotting bottoms, at any time during the growing season, but the first fruits produced are usually the most affected. Secondary pathogens may use the BER as a gateway and further infect the eggplant.

Causes of Eggplant with Rotting Bottoms

Blossom end rot isn't a disease caused by fungi or bacteria, but is instead a physiological disorder caused by a calcium deficiency in the fruit. Calcium is of paramount importance as the glue which holds cells together, as well as essential for nutrient absorption. Normal cell growth is dictated by the presence of calcium. When fruit is lacking in calcium, its tissue breaks down as it grows, creating eggplants with rotting bottoms or blossom ends. So, when eggplants are turning black on end, it is usually the result of low calcium levels. BER may also be caused by high amounts of sodium, ammonium, potassium and others that lessen the amount of calcium the plant can absorb. Drought stress or soil moisture fluxes in general work to influence the amount of calcium uptake and will result in eggplants that are turning black on the end.

How to Prevent Blossom End Rot in Eggplants

• Provide eggplant with consistent watering to avoid stressing the plant. This will allow the plant to efficiently absorb nutrients, including the all-important calcium it needs. Use mulch to aid in water retention around the plant. One to two inches (2.5-5 cm.) of water from irrigation or rain per week is the general rule of thumb.
• Avoid over fertilization using side dressings during early fruiting and use nitrate-nitrogen as the nitrogen source. Keep the soil pH at about 6.5. Liming can aid in supplying calcium.
• Foliar applications of calcium are sometimes recommended, but calcium absorbs poorly and what is absorbed doesn't effectively move to the fruit where it is needed.
• The most important thing to remember when managing BER is adequate and consistent irrigation to allow the intake of sufficient calcium.

A member of the Solanaceae, or nightshade family, which includes tomatoes, peppers, and potatoes, eggplant is thought to be a native of India where it grows wild as a perennial. Many of us are familiar with the most common eggplant variety, Solanum melongena, but there is a plethora of eggplant types available.

Types of Eggplant

For more than 1,500 years, eggplant has been cultivated in India and China. Once trade routes were established, eggplant was imported to Europe by the Arabs and transported to Africa by the Persians. The Spaniards introduced it to the New World and by the 1800's both white and purple varieties of eggplant could be found in American gardens. Eggplant is grown as an annual and requires warm temperatures. Plant eggplant after all danger of frost has passed in an area of full sun, in well-draining soil, with consistent moisture. Fruit can be harvested once it is one-third its full size and thereafter until the skin begins to dull, at which point it is over-mature and will be spongy in texture. As mentioned, most of us are familiar with S. melongena. This fruit is pear shaped, purple to dark purple, and 6 to 9 inches (15-23 cm.) long with a green calyx. This purple-black hue is the result of a water-soluble flavonoid pigment, anthocyanin, which accounts for the red, purple, and blue coloration in flowers, fruits, and veggies. Other common eggplant varieties in this group include:

• Black Magic
• Black Beauty
• Black Bell

There are a number of eggplant types with skin colors from blackish purple to vibrant purplish green, gold, white, and even bicolor or striped skin. Sizes and shapes vary depending upon the type of eggplant, and there are even those that are “ornamental,” which are actually edible but grown more for show. Eggplants are also known as ‘Aubergine' outside of the United States.

Additional Varieties of Eggplant

Additional types of eggplant include:

• Sicilian, which is smaller than S. melongena with a wider base and skin streaked with purple and white. It is also called 'Zebra' or 'Graffiti' eggplant.
• Italian types of eggplant have a green calyx with skin a deep mauve-purple with some light stippling on the skin. It's a smaller, more oval variety than the regular/classic varieties.
• White varieties of eggplant include 'Albino' and 'White Beauty' and, as suggested, have smooth, white skin. They may be round or slightly thinner and longer akin to their Italian eggplant cousins.
• Indian eggplant types are small, usually a few inches (8 cm.) long, and round to oval with dark purple skin and a green calyx.
• Japanese eggplant fruit is small and long, with smooth, light purple skin and dark, purple calyx. ‘Ichiban' is one such cultivar with skin so tender, it need not be peeled.
• Chinese varieties are rounder with purple skin and calyx.

Some of the more uncommon and interesting varieties include the fruit of S. integrifolium and S. gilo, which lacks a solid inside and looks much like its tomato relatives. Sometimes referred to as “the tomato-fruited eggplant,” the plant itself can grow to 4 feet (1 m.) in height and bears small fruit that is only about 2 inches (5 cm.) across or less. Skin color varies from greens, reds, and oranges to bicolor and striped. Another small variety, ‘Easter Egg,' is a smaller 12 inch (31 cm.) plant, again with small, egg-sized white fruit. ‘Ghostbuster' is another white skinned type of eggplant with a sweeter flavor than the purple types. ‘Mini Bambino' is a miniature which produces tiny one inch (2.5 cm.) wide fruit. There are an unending variety of eggplants and while all of them are heat lovers, some are more tolerant than others of temperature fluctuations, so do some research and find what varieties are most suited to your area.

You probably haven't seen, let alone heard of, such a cute little ghostly fruit as the Casper eggplant heirloom variety. But I'm, hopefully, gonna change all that. Its pale white complexion and mild, almost mushroom, flavor, makes this eggplant a standout in hearty stews, not to mention and it takes complex and exotic seasonings especially well.

History of White Casper Eggplant

Eggplants (Solanum melongena) were originally cultivated in China but probably originated in India. Over time, the chubby to oblong fruits became an important part of many other cultural cuisines. They are members of the nightshade family and once considered dangerous to eat by Europeans, driving one mad or even having deadly consequences - uh, please say it ain't so. No worries. They are no longer thought to cause insanity, or death. In fact, this versatile fruit has come into its own, with numerous varieties, shapes and colors to liven up the table. The Casper eggplant heirloom variety originated in France. Once consumption of the fruit became widespread, new varieties were being bred to offer thinner skins, different textures, flavors and shapes (of which most eggplants are classified - they look similar to eggs). The Casper eggplant has a pleasant teardrop shape, which if harvested young, does not need peeling. French cuisine is rife with white food and obsessed with young tender vegetables. They are masters of the practice of growing vegetables in completely dark conditions and harvesting when barely ripe. This causes them to come out blanched, like white asparagus or endive, but have a tender, sweet flavor. White Caspers do not need to be subjected to this practice and will produce pure ivory colored fruit even in full sun. And they're friendly too, wink-wink.

Growing Casper Eggplant Variety

Eggplants are native to warm regions and need consistent warmth to set fruit. In most regions, the plants will need to be started indoors 7 to 8 weeks before the last frost. Sow seeds in 2-inch pots, ¼ inch deep in good seed starter mix. Keep them evenly moist in a sunny location protected from harsh rays. Harden off the plants before installing them in a sunny location of the garden. Keep young plants under cut off 2-liter soda bottles to protect them from early beetles and larvae. Once they begin to fruit, the plants will need a little bit of extra water, but allow the soil surface to dry to the touch in between irrigation. Pick fruit 70 days after sowing seed, when they are about 5 to 6 inches long. Try growing Casper eggplant variety alongside some of the other fascinating and tasty heirloom eggplants such as Rosa Blanca and Turkish Italian Orange. The history of white Casper eggplant and its sister varieties must live on in our modern gardens and cuisine.

Eggplant blossoms need pollination in order to produce an eggplant. Generally speaking, they only need a draft of light wind or stirring of the surrounding air caused by the gardener walking nearby, or as in my case, the cat chasing bugs through the garden. On occasion, however, something goes awry-- an eggplant pollination problem as it were. This has led me to wonder if I may be of assistance; in other words, how can you hand pollinate eggplant flowers?

Can You Hand Pollinate an Eggplant?

Just as it may be difficult to explain how babies are made to your child, understanding the exact mechanics required to produce fruit on an eggplant can be complex. Basically, there are two types of plants-- those that need both male and female blossoms to produce and those that have only one type of flower that contains everything it needs to bloom. The latter are referred to as “perfect,” “bisexual,” or “complete” flowers. The former count zucchini, cucumber, and watermelon among them, while “perfect” blooms include eggplant and beans. The process of hand pollinating eggplants is slightly different than for squash or cukes, but yes, pollinating eggplants by hand is definitely doable.

How to Hand Pollinate Eggplant Flowers

Eggplant flowers contain both pollen producing anthers and pollen receiving pistils, which only take a bit of air movement to move the pollen from one to the other. As mentioned, despite this seemingly perfect system, eggplant pollination problems may still plague the gardener. You can plant a garden that attracts pollinators, increase air circulation, or hand transfer pollen. Hand pollinating eggplant isn't rocket science. On the contrary, it's very simple and can be done with your hand by lightly tapping the flower daily during the blooming season from mid to late summer, 70 to 90 days post germination. The goal is to shift the pollen from the anther to the waiting pistil. Another way to transfer the pollen to the pistil is to use a delicate brush, like those for fine art or even makeup application. You can also use a soft cotton swab. Gently pick up pollen from inside the flower and move it around. Whichever method you use for pollinating eggplants by hand, the ideal time is in the morning between 6 and 11 a.m. However, in a pinch, hand pollinating eggplants can occur in the afternoon. You'll have success when the flower closes but does not fall from the plant. This is a sure sign to expect a tiny eggplant soon. If this sounds like too much monkey business to you, you can try to increase pollination by planting flowers that will attract bees. While eggplant doesn't rely on pollinators, they can certainly be helpful buzzing around, creating air currents and moving pollen around. In an environment such as a greenhouse, pollination for “perfect” types of plants may be thwarted by the lack of air currents and/or pollinators. In this instance, setting a fan to lightly blow through the crop will increase the chances for pollination.

Eggplants are a heat-loving vegetable in the Solanaceae family that require two or more months of night temperatures around 70 degrees F. (21 C.) for optimal fruit production. These veggies are usually transplanted rather than directly sown in the garden. So how to grow eggplant from seeds? Read on to learn more.

Eggplant Seed Preparation

Eggplants, with dramatic foliage and colorful fruit, are not only a great choice for a veggie garden, but an ornamental specimen as well. Native to Asia, this tender annual requires full sun, well-draining, slightly acidic, fertile soil and a long growing season. 

There's no particular eggplant seed preparation necessary prior to sowing. Eggplant seeds germinate at temps between 60-95 degrees F. (15-35 C.) and seedlings will emerge in seven to 10 days. When growing with eggplant seeds instead of nursery starts, the seeds will remain viable for about four years. 

Starting seeds indoors is most common, although if you live in an extremely warm, humid region, planting eggplant seeds directly in the garden may work.

Starting Eggplant Seeds Indoors

When starting your eggplant seeds indoors, be sure you have an area to germinate them that is quite warm, 80-90 F. (26-32 C.). Eggplant seed planting should occur four to six weeks before your last frost date. Although eggplant seeds are tiny, sow the seeds about ¼-inch (6 mm.) deep with good quality potting soil in flats or cell containers. 

Use a dome or cloche to retain heat as well as humidity to encourage germination when eggplant seed planting indoors. At optimal conditions, the growing eggplant seeds should germinate within seven days. Two weeks after germination, fertilize the seedlings once a week with a soluble fertilizer -- 1 tablespoon (15 ml.) of fertilizer to one gallon (4 L.) of water. Eggplant seedlings will be ready to transplant in six to eight weeks. 

Harden off the seedlings carefully by gradually reducing ambient temps and easing off on watering. Wait until the weather has settled, with no chance of frost and the soil is warm before transplanting. Cool temperatures will weaken the plants, and frost will kill them.

How to Transplant Eggplant Seedlings

Once your eggplant seedlings are ready to move outdoors, choose a full sun area with a soil pH of 5.5 to 7.0 (acidic to neutral). Consider using a raised bed or black plastic mulch to aid in warming the soil and speeding up growth. 

You can also use an organic mulch to retain moisture, but don't apply it until the soil is warm. To reduce the risk of disease, eggplant crops should be rotated every few years and it does well following beans or peas. Transplants should be set about 18-24 inches (45-60 cm.) apart in rows 30-36 inches (75-90 cm.) apart. Thereafter, the plants will require moderate irrigation and a bi-weekly feeding. 

Although eggplants are heavy feeders, avoid those that are high in nitrogen, which will encourage foliage growth and not fruit. Harvest time for eggplant will be between 70-90 days from transplant date.

Certainly, if you are a vegetarian, you're familiar with eggplant since it is often used in recipes as a meat substitute. Really, a number of regional cuisines laud the eggplant from Mediterranean foods to Thai cuisine. If you are an eggplant fan, you may wonder how to grow Thai eggplants.

Thai Eggplant Varieties

What does a Thai eggplant look like? Thai eggplant varieties may be purple, white, red, or green and are smaller than other eggplant varietals. Native to Thailand, these eggplants range from the round green variety to slender, elongated Thai yellow eggplant or Thai white eggplant. Thai eggplants thrive in tropical climates and have a tender skin and delicate flavor. Of the many varietals, Thai green eggplant is the most popular and the one most likely found at specialty Asian markets. These little fruits are the size of golf balls and are prized for use in Thai curry dishes.

How to Grow Thai Eggplants

Thai eggplant growing should occur in areas with long, hot growing seasons. Thai eggplant seedlings should be planted 2 feet (61 cm.) apart, preferably in a raised bed with a soil pH of between 5.5 and 6.5. Cover seedlings at night to protect them if cold snaps are imminent, as these tropical plants are not suited to night temperatures below 53 degrees F. (12 C.). When growing Thai eggplant, keep the plants consistently damp; don't let the soil dry out. Thai eggplant grows well with carrots, marigolds, and mints, but not as well when paired with beans, corn, dill, broccoli, and cauliflower.

Caring for Thai Eggplants

• Prior to fruit set, the plants will bear purple or white flowers. Sometimes the flowers are harvested and used in cold veggie or noodle dishes.
• Once fruit has set, when caring for your Thai eggplant pinch a few back, allowing only about four fruit per bush.
• Fertilize the plants with a ¼ cup (59 ml.) of food, scattered at the base of the plant every three weeks.

Thai Eggplant Uses

As previously mentioned, eggplant, Thai or otherwise, is often used in vegetarian meals as a replacement for meat. In Thai cuisine, eggplant is commonly used in curries, noodle, veggie, and rice dishes. With a scant 40 calories a cup, eggplant makes for a low-calorie veggie for those watching their weight. They are great grilled, stir fried, pickled, or made into a relish combined with diced tomato, tahini, and fresh parsley served over fish. Thai eggplant by itself doesn't freeze well. If you have a surplus of the fruit to use up, try pickling it, or freeze it in casserole dishes for future use.

By now, I'm sure most of us have seen the last decade's craze of growing tomato plants by hanging them rather than plunking them in the garden proper. This growing method has a number of benefits, and you might be wondering if other plants can be grown upside down. For example, can you grow an eggplant upside down?

Can You Grow an Eggplant Upside Down?

Yes, vertical gardening with eggplants is indeed a possibility. The benefit to eggplant, or any veggie, is that it keeps the plant and resulting fruit off the ground and away from any pests that might want a snack and lowers the chances of soil-borne diseases. Hanging eggplants may result in a more robust plant, hence more plentiful fruit. Upside down eggplant growing is also a boon to the gardener lacking in space.

How to Create an Upside-Down Eggplant Garden

The materials needed for hanging eggplant containers are simple. You'll need a container, potting soil, eggplants, and wire with which to hang the container. Use a 5-gallon (19 L.) bucket, preferably with a handle that can be used for hanging. Turn the bucket over with the bottom facing upwards and drill a hole with a 3 inch (8 cm.) circular bit into the center of the bottom. This hole is where the eggplant transplant will be placed. The next step in vertical gardening with eggplants is to gently insert the transplant through the drilled hole. Since the top of the seedling is smaller than the rootball, feed the top of the plant through the hole, not the rootball. You'll need to place a temporary barrier in the bottom of the container-- newspaper, landscape fabric, or a coffee filter will all work. The purpose of the barrier is to prevent the soil from coming out of the hole. Hold the plant in place and fill the bucket with potting soil. You may want to do this with the container suspended on sawhorses or the like. Add the soil, compost, and soil again in layers to provide adequate drainage and food. Tamp the soil down lightly. If you're using a cover (you don't have to), use a 1 inch (2.5 cm.) drill bit to drill five or six holes in the cover to allow for ease of watering and ventilation. Voila! Growing eggplants upside down is ready to commence. Water the eggplant seedling and hang it in a sunny location receiving at least six hours, preferably eight, of full sun. Make sure to hang the eggplant somewhere very sturdy since the wet container will be very heavy. A water-soluble fertilizer should be applied throughout the growing season and maybe some lime to maintain the soil pH. Any type of container planting will tend to dry out more quickly than those planted in the garden, so be sure to monitor and water every other day, to every day if temps soar. Lastly, an added bonus of an upside-down eggplant container is that the top of the container, provided you are not using a cover, can be used to grow low growing plants, such as leaf lettuce.

Eggplants are certainly not for every gardener, but to those brave souls who love them, the appearance of tiny fruits on young plants is one of the most anticipated moments of early summer. If these plants start to show signs of trouble, like yellow fruit or leaves, knowing how to fix yellow eggplant will keep your harvest on track.

Yellow Eggplant Fruit

Most people think of large, waxy, purple fruits when eggplant comes to mind. Although many eggplants are purple, not every variety produces this iconic fruit color. Eggplant fruits can range in color from pale green to a deep purple that looks black, including many that appear in shades of yellow, or even white. If you've never grown a specific variety before, yellow could simply be the color of the fruit on your plant. Light colored eggplants are prone to yellowing when they're approaching an over-ripe state. If this color is appearing on your larger eggplants, but sparing the smaller ones, try harvesting the fruits earlier. Another common cause of yellowing of eggplants is sunburn, which happens when leaves are damaged or removed, exposing the skin of tender, young fruits to excessive ultraviolet radiation. This damage may appear as cream to tan spots, or might cover the entire exposed surface of the fruit.

Eggplant with Yellow Leaves

Eggplant turning yellow may be indicative of more serious problems if the yellowing is on leaves. Spider mites and lace bugs can cause yellowing when they feed on plant leaves. As the insect populations increase, these damaged leaves may drop or dry up, leading to sunburn on fruits. Both of these pests can be controlled with a premixed insecticidal soap, applied once a week until all signs of the pests are gone. Yellowing of leaves is often caused by care problems like irregular watering or a lack of nitrogen in the soil. Plants that aren't getting enough water may initially wilt during midday, yellowing as the water stress increases. Apply 2 to 4 inches (5-8 cm.) of organic mulch and water these plants more frequently, preferably in the morning. Eggplants that develop overall yellowing may need nitrogen -- a soil test will quickly reveal if this is the situation. A dose of balanced fertilizer, like a 10-10-10, will quickly remedy this situation. If the soil pH is too high or low, your plant won't be able to utilize the nitrogen in the soil, no matter how much you apply, so make sure to test soil pH along with nutrient levels. Early blight and Verticillium wilt are caused by fungal pathogens that are common in the soil. Both diseases come on suddenly, sometimes only affecting part of the plant at first. Eventually, the yellowing will spread across the entire plant as it dies from an inability to transport nutrients to its tissues. These fungal diseases are difficult or impossible to treat, but copper fungicides and chlorothalonil are labeled for pretreatment for early blight. Crop rotation is effective chemical-free prevention. Eggplant viruses may cause yellow circles, spots, or other irregular patterns on eggplant leaves. Many plant viruses are transmitted by pest insects as they feed, or from plant-to-plant contact via dirty tools. Plant viruses are incurable so be sure to remove infected plants immediately and destroy them to prevent further spread.

Cutting into an eggplant only to find the center full of seeds is a disappointment because you know the fruit isn't at its peak of flavor. Eggplant seediness is usually due to improper harvesting or harvesting at the wrong time. Read on to find out how to avoid bitter, seedy eggplants.

Why are My Eggplants Seedy?

If you find too many seeds in an eggplant, it's time to fine-tune your eggplant harvesting practices. Timing is everything when it comes to harvesting the perfect eggplant. Once the flowers bloom, the fruit develops and matures quickly. Eggplants are at their peak for only a few days, so check for ripe fruit every time you visit the garden. When eggplants are ripe and at their best, the skin will be glossy and tender. Once they lose their shine, the skin toughens and the seeds inside the fruit begin maturing. You can also harvest them while they are small. Baby eggplants are a gourmet treat, and harvesting the small fruit keeps them from becoming overripe if you have to be away from your garden for a few days. Harvesting young fruit stimulates the plant to produce more fruit, so don't be concerned about reducing the yield if you harvest small fruit. Clip the fruit from the plant with hand pruners, leaving an inch (2.5 cm.) of stem attached. Take care not to get stabbed by the thorny ends of the stem. Once harvested, eggplants keep for only a few days, so use them as soon as possible. You can test harvested eggplants to see if they are too old by pressing on the skin. If an indention remains when you remove your finger, the fruit is probably too old to use. The skin bounces back on fresh eggplants. Since eggplants quickly go from the peak of perfection to old and seedy and have a short shelf life, you might find yourself with more eggplants than you can use from time to time. Friends and neighbors will enjoy taking those excess eggplants off your hands, especially when they discover the superiority of fresh-picked fruit over grocery store eggplants. The fruit doesn't freeze or can well on its own, but you can freeze it cooked in your favorite casserole or sauce recipes.