Fig trees are a wonderful addition to a home garden and can live for more than 50 years if cared for properly. April is a crucial time for preparing trees for a healthy growing season and maximizing fruit production.

Growing fig trees is a mostly hands-off endeavor, but a few spring tasks will help you get the most out of your tree. A little care now will make all the difference this summer. You’ll be enjoying the fruits of your labor before you know it!

Let’s get down to business and prep your fig trees for their best year yet.

1. Last Chance for Pruning

If your fig tree is still dormant in April, which is common in cooler parts of the country, now is the time to prune. Pruning during the dormant stage is important. Pruning fig trees just before they begin to put out new growth in the spring will allow them to heal quickly when they get growing and won’t harm your crop of figs. Pruning too late will attract pests to the fig tree’s sap and open wounds in the tree can invite disease.

Cold-hardy fig trees like ‘Chicago Hardy’ figs (available from Fast Growing Trees) are frequently grown in containers and should be pruned so they don’t become too top-heavy. Mature fig trees should be pruned so 3-5 strong branches are the main scaffolding of the tree. Thinning the canopy and pruning away any tree suckers will allow proper airflow and sunlight penetration so the tree will grow well and produce good fruits.

2. Fertilize

When new growth begins, you should fertilize fig trees to give them a good nutrient boost. In warmer climates, this window might have already passed. In cooler climates, now is the ideal time to feed your fig trees. As figs enter the active growing stage of the year they need nutrients to ensure healthy roots, foliage, and an abundant crop of tasty fruits.

Firstly, water your tree the day before you plant to fertilize so the roots are hydrated and ready to absorb fertilizer. Apply a balanced organic fertilizer, like Burpee Organic All Purpose 4-4-4 fertilizer from Amazon, and work into the top inch of soil with a hand rake.

After fertilizing, apply mulch to keep roots cool and moist through the summer heat. Be sure to keep the mulch away from the trunk of your fig tree. Mulch touching the trunk will invite fungal problems.

3. Manage Damage

Your fig tree may look a little worse for wear after winter and April is the time to manage the damage. Limbs may have been snapped in early spring storms, pests are beginning to wake up, and the threat of a late frost is still in the air.

When you prune your fig tree, be sure to carefully prune out any broken branches and dead limbs. Pruning will help your fig to not waste energy on dying branches, but instead focus on new growth and fruit production.

Common fig tree pests like carpenter worms, dried fruit beetles, fig beetles, scale insects, and fig tree borers are waking up and getting to work in the spring. You should identify pests early in the season so you can remove infected wood or use physical barriers or chemical controls where appropriate. Don’t sleep on this task. Catching infestations early is critical to the survival of your tree.

In addition to pest management, you should keep an eye on the weather. Figs are native to the Mediterranean, so they won’t handle a late cold snap well, unless they are a specially bred cold-hardy variety. Cover trees with protective frost blankets, which can be found at Amazon. If you have container-grown figs, bring them back indoors when there is a cold snap in the forecast. A plant caddy, available from the Home Depot, can help you easily roll your potted fig tree indoors or around your patio for optimal sun exposure and easy watering.

Shop Fig Tree Essentials

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

We love our fig trees (Ficus carica), which have been cultivated for centuries, with archaeological evidence of their harvests dating back to Neolithic times. Native to the Mediterranean, today the edible fig is a global garden favorite, prized as much for its architectural shape and lobed leaves as for its honey-sweet fruit. While figs thrive best in USDA hardiness zones 7-10, gardeners in cooler climates are increasingly finding success by utilizing containers and cold-hardy varieties.

If you are still learning how to grow figs, you may be surprised to learn how important pruning fig trees can be to the health and longevity of the tree and the abundance of the fruit. Some fruit trees require delicate training, but the fig is fast-growing. Without intervention, a single tree can quickly dominate a small yard, casting deep shade and making its fruit hard to reach. Proper pruning creates a strong branch structure that can support a heavy crop. It also ensures that every fig gets the sunlight it needs to ripen to perfection – and helps to increase your fruit harvest year after year.

Whether you are tending to a century-old specimen or a brand-new sapling, we’ve pulled together everything you need to perfect fig tree pruning with confidence and precision. Here’s how to cut, when to cut, how to avoid mistakes, and how to care for your tree after snipping, so you can become a fig pruning guru.

Why Prune Your Fig Tree

The basics of pruning can intimidate even an experienced gardener. We are all afraid of making a mistake, and the fear of killing a healthy plant is a common hurdle. However, in the world of figs, neglect is a far greater risk than a heavy hand. Regular pruning is key to a healthy harvest.

By removing dead, damaged, or diseased wood (also known as the 3 Ds), you allow the tree to divert its precious energy away from struggling limbs and into the production of top-quality fruit. A tree full of younger branches is healthier and more productive than one with older branches. You are encouraging the tree to invest more energy in top-quality fruit harvests, rather than woody growth.

As you thin out branches and open the canopy, you improve air circulation. This is a critical factor in preventing the trapped humidity that leads to fungal diseases and fruit rot. Furthermore, sunlight is the primary fuel for sugar production in figs. An open, airy canopy ensures that sun reaches the interior, ripening the fruit evenly and intensifying its flavor.

Finally, there is the matter of scale. Did you know that a healthy fig tree, left to its own devices, can grow up to 30 feet (10 m) tall? This can make harvesting a dangerous high-wire act. By pruning figs, you keep the fruiting wood within arm's reach. Regular trimming also prevents the tree from becoming invasive in certain USDA growing areas, where its vigorous root system and spreading habit can otherwise crowd out native flora.

When to Prune Fig Trees

A key part of knowing how to prune a fig tree is knowing when to prune. Fig trees are deciduous, so they lose their leaves and enter a deep dormancy in late fall. The gold standard for pruning is during this dormant window, either in late autumn after the leaves have dropped or in early spring before the first buds swell. Pruning a fig between late winter and early spring allows you to easily identify and remove any wood that suffered die-back during a harsh winter freeze.

Pruning in winter is less stressful on the tree. There is also a biological reason for this timing: fig trees are bleeders. When cut during the active growing season, they ooze a thick, milky latex sap. This sap isn't just a nuisance, it acts as a beacon for sap-sucking insects and provides an entry point for pathogens. By pruning during dormancy, you minimize bleeding, allowing the tree to seal its wounds more effectively before pests become active in summer.

If you prune in late summer to control size, stick to pinching back new, soft growth rather than cutting into old wood. This minimizes sap loss and prevents a tree being stimulated into new growth that won't have time to harden off before the first frost.

Ground versus Container Figs

Pruning fig trees for fruit benefits and tree health also requires an understanding of how the plant is growing, based on whether it is in the ground or in a pot. Before you grab your shears, consider the fig variety and its home. In-ground trees, such as the classic 'Brown Turkey' or honey-sweet 'Celeste,' have space to develop massive root systems, resulting in larger yields, but require more aggressive structural pruning. These varieties are the backbone of the traditional open-center or vase shape, which maximizes light penetration.

For those with limited space or colder climates (USDA zones 5-6), container-grown figs are a revelation. Varieties like 'Little Miss Figgy' or 'Chicago Hardy' are bred for their compact habits. Pruning a container fig is less about taming a beast and more about root restriction. Because the pot limits the roots, the tree naturally grows more slowly, but you must still prune the canopy annually to prevent it becoming top-heavy and to encourage the new wood on which the best figs grow.

Best Pruning Tools

The right pruning tools will prevent ragged cuts that invite rots and diseases. For most fig pruning, a high-quality pair of bypass pruners is your best friend. Unlike anvil pruners, which crush the stem, bypass pruners act like scissors, leaving a clean, surgical edge. Our team loves Fiskars Bypass Pruners from Amazon for their clean, precise cuts.

For larger fig tree branches on mature trees, anything over an inch (2.5 cm), you will need the leverage of long-handled loppers such as the highly rated Corona 33in Bypass Loppers from Amazon. Alternatively, you can use a dedicated pruning saw, such as the Silky Gomboy Curve Professional from Amazon, which has excellent cutting action with minimal drag, and folds away so it is safe to store.

The specific tools you use to prune your fig tree may depend on the age and stage of the tree. Just make sure they are clean and sharp. Sharpen dull blades with a sharpening tool such as the AccuSharp Garden Tool Blade Sharpener from Amazon. Use rubbing alcohol, like Epic Medical 70% Isopropyl Alcohol from Amazon, to wipe pruning blades between cuts and prevent pathogens spreading.

Don’t forget garden gloves. Choose a comfortable pair that allows full movement, like the Arm Protecting Gloves from Uncommon Goods, to protect from fig latex.

Pruning Figs for the First Time

Fig tree pruning shouldn't start the day you plant, but rather one year later. This settling in period allows the tree to establish a robust root system. Once that first year has passed, your goal is to select a scaffolding – a framework of 3 to 5 strong, healthy branches that will support the future weight of your harvests. And the intention is to prune year after year to support that framework.

Identify a strong central leader (the main trunk) and remove any competing vertical shoots, as well as any crossing branches. For the best fruit tree pruning, you want your main branches to grow outward at roughly a 45-degree angle. If branches are growing too vertically, they are prone to breaking; if they are too horizontal, they will sag under the weight of the fruit. Cut these selected scaffold branches back by half to encourage them to thicken and branch out further, creating a sturdy vase shape. A strong structure means the tree can bear plenty of fruit.

How to Prune Mature Figs

When pruning a mature fig tree, first remove the 3 Ds, plus side shoots and crossing branches. Then, focus on tree suckers – those thin, vertical shoots popping up from the base of the trunk or the roots. They should also be removed, as they suck energy away from the fruiting canopy.

Once the tree is cleaned up, focus on thinning the canopy. An increase in sunlight and air can only be a good thing for your fig trees. Look for branches that are rubbing against each other, as these wounds are magnets for pests. Remove branches with a thin crotch – that is, branches growing at less than a 45-degree angle from the main branch.

Prune back the tallest branches to a height where you can comfortably harvest. Finally, shorten the fruiting wood (the previous year's growth) by about one third. This stimulates the production of new wood, which is exactly where your summer crop of figs will appear. Prune back by one third the length of specific branches for a more compact shape. Take care not to remove more than a third in one session.

Common Fig Pruning Mistakes

One of the most frequent pruning mistakes is flush cutting. This involves cutting a branch perfectly flat against the main trunk. This removes the branch collar (the wrinkled area of bark where the branch meets the trunk), which contains the specialized cells the tree needs to heal the wound. You should always cut just outside this collar to ensure a quick recovery.

Another common mistake is over-pruning in a single season. While figs are tough, removing more than a third of the canopy at once can send the tree into shock, causing it to produce water sprouts (those weak, whip-like vertical growth shoots you see appearing from the tops of trees). If a tree is severely overgrown, it is better to spread the rejuvenation over two or three years, rather than doing it all at once.

After-Pruning Care Essentials

Once the cutting is done, your work isn't quite over. Pruning is a surgical procedure for a tree, and it needs a recovery plan. Immediately after pruning, you need to apply a fresh 2-3 inch (5-8 cm) layer of mulch, such as wood chips, well-rotted manure, or a commercial blend such as Back to the Roots Organic Mulch from Amazon. Add this around the base, but ensure the mulch doesn't touch the trunk, as this can cause bark rot. This mulch will help to regulate soil temperature and moisture for shallow fig roots during the critical spring push.

As soon as you see the first signs of green growth in spring, you can apply a high-potassium fertilizer. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, which encourage a flush of green leaves but can lead to smaller, less flavorful fruit. A gentle formula for lush growth and healthy fruit development is TPS Nutrients’ Fig Tree Liquid Fertilizer from Amazon. For container figs, remember that nutrients leach out of the soil faster due to frequent watering. Add a liquid feed every two weeks during the growing season.

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Have you given up on figs because your winters are too tough? Do you pine for Mediterranean fruit but live in a polar-esque climate? Then you need one of these trees, named for a city not exactly known for its mild temperatures.

Chicago Hardy fig trees are tough. How tough? They can survive temperatures as low as -10F (-23C). That means gardeners in zone 5 or 6 get home-grown figs without a greenhouse.

Why Chicago Hard Stands Out

Growing figs in cold areas used to mean heavy wrapping or pot culture, but Chicago Hardy simplifies it. That's due largely to its ability to fruit on new growth, so winter dieback doesn’t cost the harvest. The figs ripen sweet and plentiful by late summer.

Cold hardy fig trees like this one die back completely in harsh winters, but with heavy mulching the roots can survive –10 F (–23 C) or colder. In the spring, the tree regrows fast from roots, with the new canes reach 6 feet (1.8 m) in one season.

The fruit hangs heavy on fresh wood, ripening purple-brown and sweet. The plant feels tough, handling temperature swings that kill tender varieties. Older bushes spread wide, roots sending up suckers that fill space. The figs drop when ripe, so check daily in late summer. The taste feels jammy and rich, better than store-bought. The leaves feel large and lobed, giving tropical look even in cool climates. The bark turns gray and rough over time, adding winter interest.

The plant tolerates clay or sandy soil once established, pulling nutrients from surprising depths. The leaves drop clean in fall, leaving a skeleton of stems that sprout again.

Planting and Site Selection

Plant Chicago Hardy in full sun with well-drained soil – heavy clay needs amending. The spot should warm and sheltered, ideally against a south-facing wall. Dig a wide hole and mix in compost – this will encourage the roots to spread and establish fast. The plant tolerates neutral to slightly alkaline soil but adapts well to most garden soils. Space 10 feet (3 m) apart for air flow – crowding invites disease.

Mulch heavy around the base 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) deep – straw or bark keeps roots insulated. Water deeply in the first year to establish. The shrub grows quickly once settled, filling space with lush leaves. Raised beds work in wet areas – the soil warms faster. The plant handles wind if staked young. The site feels exposed at first, then fills out densely.

Winter Protection Tips

Wrap young plants in burlap or frost covers like this from Amazon – the insulation feels simple but saves stems. The wrap breathes, preventing rot.

In pots, move the tree to an unheated garage or bury another pot in the ground, then insert the potted tree into it, as a pot-in-pot. You can also use insulated pot protectors like this from Amazon– the cold protection feels easy. Roots have survived temperatures approaching –20F (–29C) with heavy mulch and snow cover in protected sites. The stems die back anyway, but roots live. The protection feels worth it for an early start. Straw bales around pots block wind. The plant pushes new growth sooner with cover.

Pruning and Training

Prune your fig tree hard in late winter – cut dead wood to ground. The plant regrows vigorous canes. Shape as a bush or small tree – the form feels flexible.

Thin crowded canes for air flow. Since the plant fruits on new wood, heavy pruning can boost the crop. The figs feel larger on open plants. Pinch tips in summer for branching – the bush fills out dense. Tie young stems to stakes – the plant leans without support. The structure feels loose at first, then sturdy by fall.

Harvest and Fruiting Habits

Chicago Hardy fruits on new growth, ripening August to October. The figs feel sweet and jammy, skin purple-brown. Pick figs when they're soft – the fruit drops easy. The crop feels heavy on mature plants.

A second crop sometimes follows on late wood. Eat fresh or dry – the flavor is better than the store. The plant produces reliably even after dieback, and the figs hang heavy, splitting sweet when ripe. Jams and preserves stretch the harvest, and the taste feels better than imported – no wax, no travel.

Common Problems and Fixes

Aphids cluster on new growth – hose them off or spray them with soap. The pests feel sticky but wash away. Rust shows on leaves in humid summers – remove affected leaves to improve air flow and slow the spread of disease. These trees are tough, bouncing back fast.

Birds steal ripe figs – net or bag clusters of fruit to make sure the harvest stays yours. The fruit bruises easily, so harvest daily. The plant overwinters better with fall cleanup – remove dropped fruit. Scale insects hide on stems. When that happens, just wipe them with alcohol. The plant shrugs off most trouble once established.

Fig wasps in figs might sound like some oddball nature yarn, but they’re real. These little guys aren’t just hanging around for fun. They’ve got this wild, ancient deal with fig trees that ensures you get sweet, plump fruits. So, do figs really have wasps in them? And should you be worried you’re munching on bugs with every bite?

Here’s the scoop on how figs and wasps work together. Fig wasps are important pollinators that ensure wild fig trees produce bountiful harvests. This is something that they’ve been doing for millions of years. Growing figs doesn’t have to mean you are eating bugs, however. Some figs need these critters to make fruit, others don’t.

Let’s break down the fig-wasp hookup, the fig wasp life cycle, and whether you’re really scarfing down dead wasps in figs. Plus, it’ll bust that fig wasp myth that’s got people freaking out. You’ll see that this whole deal is more fascinating than creepy.

The Fig-Wasp Relationship Explained

Figs and fig wasps are like partners in a dance that’s been going strong for 80 million years. Every fig type, and there are over 750 out there, has its own special wasp pal which is perfectly suited to pollinate the plant. Fig trees have a kind of inverted flower. This little pod is called a syconium and only fig wasps are small enough to wiggle in and handle the pollination gig.

A female wasp squirms through a tiny hole in the syconium to drop her eggs and dust pollen from the fig from which she hatched. She sheds her wings to squeeze in, so this is a one way trip. Once the female wasp has pollinated the fig, fig seeds develop, and the wasp gets a snug spot for her young. It’s a sweet deal, called mutualism, where both sides lean on each other to keep the show running.

Fig Wasp Life Cycle

The fig wasp life cycle is wild and tied to the fig’s growth. Once she pollinates the figs and lays her eggs, she dies, and her job is done. The eggs hatch into larvae. Male wasps, wingless and blind, pop out first, mate with females, and chew tunnels to the outside so the females can leave the fig. Males, however, do not crawl out and die inside the fig.

The female wasps crawl out, grabbing pollen as they go. These females fly to another fig and start the cycle again. The whole process only takes a couple days and the life cycles of the fig wasps and the occurrence of unripe figs matches up perfectly. The process sounds intense, but it’s nature’s way of keeping both species alive.

Types of Figs and Wasps

However, not every fig needs a wasp to produce fruit. Wild figs, like strangler figs or banyans, count on specific fig wasps to get pollinated. For example, Ficus carica, your go-to edible fig, teams up with the Blastophaga psenes wasp in places like the Mediterranean.

But types like ‘Brown Turkey’ fig trees, which can be found on Fast Growing Trees, or ‘Celeste,’ popular across the U.S., are parthenocarpic. This means they produce fruit without wasps or pollination. Growers in spots like California often pick these self-pollinating varieties or use hormones to bypass the bug business. Around 850-900 wasp species work in tandem with wild figs, each one fitting like a key to its tree, but cultivated figs skip this for easier harvests.

Do We Eat Wasps in Figs?

So, are you eating wasps when you bite into a juicy fig? Well, it is partially true. In wild figs, like Smyrna or Calimyrna, a female wasp dies inside the fig after dropping her eggs. But the fig pumps out an enzyme, ficain, that melts the wasp’s body into plant food. So, dead wasps in figs? Sure, in some wild ones, but you’re not munching bug chunks. That crunch is just seeds, not critters.

Additionally, store-bought figs are almost always wasp-free. Most come from self-pollinating types or are grown without any bugs. Even in figs that need wasps, the insect is long gone by ripeness, broken down by the fig’s enzyme. No need to stress about chowing on bugs. Vegan or not, you can dig into figs without a worry.

Figs are a classic Mediterranean fruit, but don't fret if you are in a cooler part of the world. There are many types of fig trees that have been specially cultivated to grow in cooler climates like the ‘Chicago Hardy’ fig tree that is hardy to USDA zone 5 and can be found at Fast Growing Trees. You can also pair a dwarf fig tree like ‘Little Miss Figgy’ from Fast Growing Trees with an attractive plant dolly, like this one from Amazon, to easily move your container-grown fig tree from your patio into your home as the weather cools.

Fig wasps and figs have a wild, ancient partnership that’s more cool than creepy. The fig wasp life cycle keeps wild figs growing, but not every fig needs a wasp to make fruit. Busting the fig wasp myth, you’re not eating dead wasps in figs, thanks to the fig’s digestive enzyme. So go ahead and plant that fig tree!

Figs are those jammy, sweet fruits that make you feel like you’re cheating on dessert. Knowing how to grow figs from the fruit is a scrappy gardener’s challenge. It's nothing like the quick win of cuttings, but pulling it off feels like you’ve outsmarted nature. There are plenty of ways to propagate a fig tree, but starting from seeds is a wild card worth playing if you’ve got patience.

It’s a gamble, though. Seeds might not grow a tree that matches the fruit you ate, and you’ll wait years for a harvest. Still, it’s a cheap, hands-dirty project that can yield a tree nobody else has. Here’s how to propagate a fig tree from seed to a full-blown tree, step by step.

Understanding Figs and Their Seeds

Figs aren’t your average fruit – they’re more like pouches stuffed with tiny flowers, called syconia. Those crunchy bits inside them are the real seeds. Sometimes there are hundreds in one fig. Each could sprout a tree, but figs play hard to get most of the time.

Most figs you eat come from female trees that skip pollination, so their seeds might not be viable. Types like Smyrna figs need a wasp to make viable seeds, which isn’t common with store-bought ones. Even if they sprout, the tree might give you something totally different – maybe better, maybe not. It’s like planting a mystery novel.

That uncertainty is part of the deal. You’re not just tossing seeds in dirt. You’re betting on a tree with its own quirks.

Are Seeds a Good Way to Propagate Figs?

Growing figs from seed isn’t the fastest way to go. Cuttings or layering get you a clone of the parent tree, fruit and all, in a couple years. Seeds take 2-3 years for a solid sapling, 5-7 for fruit, and you might end up with small, tart figs instead of sweet ones.

Still, it’s got its perks. It’s dirt-cheap and a fun way to grow something unique. Starting few seeds from a Brown Turkey fig, and seeing those tiny green miracles break through can be a rush of excitement. If you want a sure bet for fruit, go with cuttings. Seeds are for folks who don’t mind a long wait and a surprise.

How to Grow Figs from Seed

1. Collecting Seeds from a Fig

Pick a soft, ripe fig – fresh from a tree beats store-bought, but either works. Then it is time to slice it open. Just scoop the gooey insides into a bowl of water, and let it sit for a day or two. Good seeds will sink, and the slimy junk floats.

Skim off the goop on top, then you can strain the seeds through a fine mesh. Spread them on a paper towel to dry for just a few days, just until they are dry. One fig gives you dozens of tiny, sand-like seeds that are ready to plant. Don’t skip soaking – the pulp can rot and undo all of your progress of germination. It’s messy, but some that has to be dealt with.

2. Preparing the Seeds

Dry seeds need a quick setup. Many people swear by soaking them in warm water for a day to soften the coat, but I’ve realized that you can just jump straight to planting, in most cases. You’ll mix equal parts of peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite for a light, airy soil. A seed tray like this biodegradable kind from Amazon

Moisten the mix until it’s damp, not drenched. You’re giving those seeds a soft bed to start life. Good prep stops rot and gives them a fighting chance to sprout.

3. Germinating the Seeds

Scatter fig seeds across the soil and tap them in lightly – don’t jam them down. Toss a thin 1/8-inch (3 mm) layer of mix over them, then mist with a spray bottle. If you want to go a step further, then an ultra-fine mist spray bottle like this one from Amazon will set you ahead. Simply stick the tray in a nice, warm spot, 70-75°F (21-24°C), like a sunny windowsill or even a heat mat.

It’s advised to cover them with plastic wrap, poke a few holes for air, and make sure to check daily to keep it moist. Sprouts can take 2-6 weeks, so don’t bail out early. Don’t check them too much, because waiting is the game. Once you see green, shift to bright, indirect light to keep them strong.

4. Caring for the Seedlings

Fig seedlings are fussy little things. Keep soil moist but not soggy – overwatering is a death sentence. Use a tray with drainage holes to stay safe. Feed them monthly with a diluted 5-5-5 fertilizer to nudge growth.

Give them 6-8 hours of bright, indirect light. A south-facing window works. Leggy seedlings scream for more sun. You can lose them to dim light, so don’t slack here. Thin out weak ones at 3-4 inches (5-8 cm) to let the strong ones spread out.

5. Transplanting and Care

When seedlings hit 6 inches (15 cm), about 3-4 months in, move them to 1-gallon pots with loamy, sandy soil. Bury the root ball just below the surface and water deeply. Let the top inch dry before watering again.

After the last frost, shift them outside in zones 7-10, where figs love it. Pick a sunny spot, shielded from harsh wind. Water weekly, fertilize monthly in growing season. Stake taller ones to keep them steady. In a year or two, plant in the ground or bigger pots. With luck, you’ll taste figs in 5-7 years. It’s a slow haul, but homegrown figs are pure gold.

Root knot nematodes are a serious problem associated with fig trees. Tiny little roundworms that live in the soil, these nematodes will cause noticeable stunting of the tree and lead to its eventual death. Keep reading to learn more about recognizing fig root knot nematode symptoms and how to manage figs with root knot nematodes.

What are Fig Nematodes and What Do They Do?

Nematodes are microscopic roundworms that live in the soil and feed on the roots of plants. While some nematodes are actually beneficial, there are many that damage or even kill the plants they infest. There are several species of nematode that can infest fig roots, including dagger nematodes, lesion nematodes, and ring nematodes. By far the most common and the most dangerous, however, are root knot nematodes.

Fig Root Knot Nematode Symptoms

Root knot nematodes on fig trees live up to their name– they often show themselves with bumps or “knots” on the roots of the tree. Aboveground, the tree has a generally stunted and unhealthy look. It can be hard to diagnose the presence of root knot nematodes by sight alone, since the symptoms could mean any number of diseases. In order to know for sure, you should take a sample of your soil and send it away for diagnostics. As the nematode infestation gets worse, it will create more bumps and galls on the roots. These galls inhibit the tree’s ability to take up nutrients and will eventually lead to the tree’s death.

How to Control Root Knot Nematodes on Fig Trees

There is no real cure for figs with root knot nematodes. Once an infestation takes hold, the best course of action is to fertilize vigorously. This will encourage root growth and hopefully give the tree enough uninfected roots with which to take in nutrients. Even this is just delaying the inevitable, however. Prevention is the only real solution. Before planting, have your soil tested for root knot nematodes. Ideally, you should plant in a spot that is completely free of them. If you simply have to use a site that is infested, you can fumigate the soil before planting to lessen the infestation. Don’t fumigate soil you have already planted in, as it will likely kill the tree.

Fig souring, or fig sour rot, is a nasty business that can render all the fruits on a fig tree inedible. It can be caused by a number of different yeasts and bacteria, but it is pretty much always spread by insects. Luckily, there are some easy and effective ways to avoid the problem. Keep reading to learn more about identifying sour figs and managing fig sour rot.

What is Fig Souring?

Symptoms of fig souring are usually easily recognizable. As the figs start to ripen, they will give off a fermented smell and a pink, syrupy liquid will begin to ooze from the eye, sometimes forming bubbles as it comes out. Eventually, the flesh inside the fruit will liquefy and become covered in a white scum. The fruit will go limp and black, then shrivel up and either drop from the tree or remain there until it is removed. The rot might then spread to where the stem attaches to the fruit, forming a canker in the bark.

What Causes Fig Souring?

Fig souring isn’t a disease in and of itself, but rather the result of any of a large number of bacteria, fungi, and yeasts entering into the fig and essentially rotting it from within. These things enter the fig through its eye, or ostiole, the little hole at the base of the fruit that opens up as it ripens. When this eye opens, tiny insects enter it and bring the bacteria with them. Nitidulid beetles and vinegar fruit flies are common insect culprits.

How to Prevent Fig Sour Rot

Unfortunately, once a fig has begun to sour, there’s no saving it. Spraying insecticides to control the insects that spread bacteria is sometimes effective. The best way to prevent sour figs, however, is to plant varieties that have either narrow or no ostioles. Some good varieties are Texas Everbearing, Celeste, and Alma.

Anthracnose of figs is a fungal disease that causes rotting and shriveling of the fruit on fig trees. The infection also impacts leaves and causes defoliation. This disease has the potential to cause serious damage to trees, especially when it is poorly controlled year after year. Preventative measures and cultural control are important for protecting a fig tree in your yard from anthracnose.

Fig Anthracnose Disease and Symptoms

Fig anthracnose is a disease caused by the fungus Glomerella cingulata. It attacks the leaves and the fruit of fig trees. Fig anthracnose symptoms include fruit that rots and drops prematurely as well as immature fruit that shrivels and never drops from the tree. The fruit will have sunken spots that are discolored. As the disease spreads, these spots will develop pink spores. On the leaves, anthracnose of figs causes a margin that is dark brown in color surrounding spots that are slightly sunken. With time these spread and merge, producing large areas of brown on the leaves. The leaves tend to develop a dry, brown margin all around the edges and eventually fall off the tree.

Managing Figs with Anthracnose

There is no fig anthracnose treatment with chemicals that will successfully eliminate the disease and maintain edible fruits. Prevention and good management are used to control the disease and prevent it from destroying trees and crops. A healthy fig tree with the right conditions will better resist diseases like anthracnose. These trees need full sun to partial shade, soil that drains well, and a warm climate to thrive and stave off disease. Wet conditions can be tolerated by fig trees but make them more vulnerable to fungal infections. Avoid overhead watering and standing water. Despite preventative efforts, you may see fig anthracnose symptoms on your tree. If you do, remove all branches that are affected and destroy them appropriately. Keep the area under the tree clean and free of debris, especially the infected parts of the tree that have been trimmed. With these steps and by keeping your fig tree healthy, you should be able to manage the disease and save your tree and much of your fruit crop.

Figs are a wonderful and unique fruit, and they don’t come cheap (or fresh, usually) in the supermarket. That’s why having your own fig tree, if you can do it, is so valuable. There are plenty of fig varieties on the market, and it’s important to find the one that suits you best. One very popular type is the Celeste fig (Ficus carica ‘Celeste’). Keep reading to learn more about Celeste fig tree care and tips for growing Celeste figs in the garden.

Celeste Fig Tree Info

What is a Celeste fig? The Celeste fig tree produces fruit that is medium in size and has light brown to purple skin and bright pink flesh. The flesh is very sweet, and it’s popular eaten fresh as a dessert fruit. In fact, it is also referred to as “sugar fig” on account of its sweetness. This fig is also a good processing fruit and is frequently used for both preserves and drying. The fruits are “closed eye,” which greatly discourages dried fruit beetles and fruit rots. The trees are very cold hardy for fig trees, with some sellers describing them as hardy down to zone 6. (Some others rate them only down to zone 7.) In these colder zones, lots of care should be taken for winter protection. Celeste figs are resistant to many pests and diseases, and they are self-fertile, which means only a single tree is needed for fruit production.

How to Grow Celeste Figs

Celeste fig tree care is relatively low maintenance, as long as you provide good winter protection. Celeste figs are both heat and cold tolerant. They have a compact growth pattern, usually reaching a mature height and spread of 7 to 10 feet (2-3 m.). They do well in containers. They should not be pruned heavily, as this can reduce fruit production. The trees like full sun and loamy, well drained, neutral soil. They produce their main crop of fruit earlier than most other fig varieties, usually in early summer.

If you are a fig lover, you might be tempted to grow your own. Some varieties of fig are strictly suitable for tropical to sub-tropical zones, but Brown Turkey figs are adaptable to temperate regions. What is a Brown Turkey fig? Brown Turkey fig trees are easy to prune to manage height, adaptable to many soils, and prolific fruit producers. As an added bonus, Brown Turkey care is negligible and the plants can be trained to single or multi-stemmed plants, adding beauty and shade to the garden.

What is a Brown Turkey Fig?

Brown Turkey figs (Ficus carica ‘Brown Turkey') are sweet, delicious fruits that have rusty red to purplish skin and richly toned pink flesh. The trees are suited for a Mediterranean climate and produce prolifically, which in some areas makes them invasive. Brown turkey fig trees are quite commonly available, as they have a zone tolerance of USDA 7 to 11. Even gardeners with relatively short growing seasons should be able to harvest some of the candy-like fruits. Brown Turkey fig trees get about 20 feet (6 m.) in height, but you can keep them pruned to a shorter plant quite easily. Mature trees get silvery gray bark and interesting gnarled silhouettes. The large three to five lobed leaves are slightly hairy and darker green above than below. The flowers are not showy and develop at the ends of the branches, with subsequent fruit ready for harvest at the end of summer or into early fall. The beautiful trees have shallow roots which can be invasive and cause tripping hazards. It is best to situate the plant where it is sheltered but receives full sun. One of the more interesting ways of growing Brown Turkeys is as a bonsai. It takes some serious training and root pruning, but the elegant little plant can still produce a few fruits!

How to Grow Brown Turkey Figs

Brown Turkey fig trees can be grown in containers in cooler regions. Set them on casters so you can easily move the plants indoors when freezing temperatures threaten. Some gardeners say the plant can be grown in USDA zone 6 if the root zone is heavily mulched and the plant is in a location with some protection from northern winds and freezes. Early season frosts may require the tree be draped with a blanket or other cloth to protect fruits as they are ripening. Growing Brown Turkeys from cuttings is quite easy. Clip off a sucker from the base of a mature tree. Dip the end into rooting hormone and place the cutting into moistened sand. Keep moist and once you notice new growth, repot the new plant in potting mixture.

Brown Turkey Care

Fig trees are very stoic unless you relocate them. Transplanting can cause leaf drop and the plant is slow to recover, but with good culture it will rebound the next season. Brown Turkey fig trees can tolerate drought for brief periods of time, but they will produce best with consistent moisture. Top dress around the roots annually with compost to help richen up the soil. If slow growth or pale leaves occur, fertilize the plant with 10-10-10 fertilizer worked into the soil around the root zone. The most common issues are going to be sucking insects. Use neem oil sprays early in the season to get the majority of the insects. Some moderate fungal diseases can occur. As part of routine Brown Turkey care, clean up leaves at the end of the season so diseases and insects that such debris can harbor are minimized.

The common fig, Ficus carica, is a temperate tree native to southwest Asia and the Mediterranean. Generally, this would mean that folks living in cooler climes couldn’t grow figs, right? Wrong. Meet the Chicago Hardy fig. What’s a hardy Chicago fig? Only a cold tolerant fig tree that can be grown in USDA zones 5 through 10. These are figs for cold weather regions. Keep reading to find out about growing hardy Chicago fig.

What is a Hardy Chicago Fig?

Native to Sicily, hardy Chicago figs, as the name suggests, are the most cold tolerant fig trees available. This beautiful fig tree bears luscious, medium sized figs, which are produced on older wood in the early summer and fruit on new growth in the early fall. The ripe fruit is a dark mahogany contrasting with the characteristic three-lobed, green fig leaves. Also known as ‘Bensonhurst Purple,’ this tree can grow up to 30 feet (9 m.) in height or can be restrained to around 6 feet (2 m.). Chicago figs do well as container grown trees and are drought tolerant once established. Fairly pest resistant as well, this fig can produce up to 100 pints (47 L.) of fig fruit per season and is easily grown and maintained.

How to Grow Chicago Hardy Fig Trees

All figs thrive in organically rich, moist, well-draining soil in full sun to partial shade. Chicago fig stems are hardy to 10 degrees F. (-12 C.) and the roots are hardy to -20 degrees F. (-29 C.). In USDA zones 6 to 7, grow this fig in a protected area, such as against a south-facing wall, and mulch around the roots. Also, consider providing additional cold protection by wrapping the tree. The plant may still show dieback during the cold winter but should be protected enough to rebound in the spring. In USDA zones 5 and 6, this fig can be grown as a low-growing shrub that is “laid down” in the winter, known as heeling in. This just means that the branches are bent over and covered with soil along with mounding soil over the main trunk of the tree. Chicago figs can also be container grown and then moved indoors and overwintered in a greenhouse, garage, or basement. Otherwise, growing the hardy Chicago fig requires little maintenance. Just be sure to water regularly throughout the growing season and then reduce watering in the fall prior to dormancy.

The history of figs is not a tale quickly told, since it is thought to span some 11,000 years. Archaeobotanists suggest that this plant might have been present at the dawn of agriculture. Read on for more fig tree information, including fascinating and unusual fig uses over the ages.

Fig Tree Information

The fig is a small tree offering big rewards to a gardener. It rarely grows above 30 feet (9 m.) and has a wide, shallow root system. But its spreading branches can bear thousands of nutritious fruit every year. In fact, sometimes you'll even get two crops every year. However, the first crop's "breba" fruits are not as delicious as the second, principal crop.

History of Figs

For many years, it was thought that figs were domesticated some 7,000 years ago. But recent archaeobotanical findings suggest that the trees were domesticated in the Near East some 11,000 years ago. Researchers found a few small, dried figs and hundreds of fig drupelets in a village in the Lower Jordan Valley. They were discovered near the site of ancient Jericho. That town had been inhabited for several centuries but was abandoned roughly 11,200 years ago. That means that figs predate wheat, barley and legumes as agricultural crops by some 1,000 years. And this new finding about the history of figs makes the fruit trees the oldest known domesticated crop.

Fig Uses through the Ages

From humankind's earliest days, fig uses were many and varied. The trees provided shade in hot regions. In cold areas, the trunks were cut up for fire wood. And first among fig uses has always been the tree's nourishing fruit. Early humans learned to dry fig fruit in order to preserve it. They pressed the dried figs into loaves or else strung them on twine. In these forms, the figs provided food for arduous treks across the desert.

In modern times, many figs are eaten fresh, although crops for export are treated to preserve them. Fig uses by home gardeners include making the fruits into jam, marmalade, or paste. In some areas, dried cull figs have been roasted and ground as a coffee substitute. In Mediterranean countries, low-grade figs are converted into alcohol for lending flavor to liqueurs and tobacco.

Figs are beautiful additions to your edible landscape, with their big, shapely leaves and umbrella-like form. The fruit these amazing and tough plants produce is just icing on the cake that is the fig tree. Although they’re generally pretty easy to grow, there are a few difficult problems that fig growers can come across. One, in particular, fig tree borers, have left many a fig owner frustrated and frazzled.

About Fig Tree Insect Pests

Among common pest insects of figs, the fig borers (family Ceramycidae) are unquestionably the most annoying and frustrating to manage. These long-horned beetles lay their eggs under the fig bark near the base of the trunk in early summer, giving their larvae plenty of time to develop before cooler temperatures set in. At about two weeks old, the white grub-like larvae will begin to bore into the wood of infected figs, where they quickly take up residence. These trees will house the larvae anywhere from a few months to several years, depending on the species, as the young beetles continue to hollow the fig out. Controlling borers in fig trees is complicated since the tree itself protects the larvae throughout most of their life cycle. If your tree is small and the infection limited, you may be able to protect it by removing infected wood entirely, but if you choose to go this route, you’ll want to immediately install a protective net to prevent adult borers from laying eggs on the wound. Fig tree borer treatment isn’t as simple as spraying the tree and watching the pests disappear. In fact, the damage that’s already done is often irreparable, causing sections of your fig to weaken or die. Your best bet is to prevent fig tree borers by keeping your plant healthy and enclosing the base of the tree with a ring of fine mesh netting about 2 inches (5 cm.) away from the bark. This will prevent adults from depositing their eggs and can break the insect’s life cycle if you are vigilant. In addition, it can help thin or destroy breeding populations if you watch closely for adults to emerge and destroy them on sight. They will chew leaves and fruit, making them as much of a nuisance as their offspring. If your fig tree becomes too weak or heavily infested, you may have to make the difficult decision to destroy it. Complete removal of the plant from the landscape and quick containment of the larvae is a must to prevent infestations in future trees. Burn or double bag debris if you can’t dispose of it right away.

Ficus carica, or common fig, is native to the Middle East and western Asia. Cultivated since ancient times, many species have become naturalized in Asia and North America. If you’re lucky enough to have one or more fig trees in your landscape, you might be wondering about irrigating fig trees; how much and how often. The following article contains information on the water requirements for fig trees and when to water fig trees.

About Watering a Fig Tree

Fig trees grow wild in dry, sunny regions with deep soil as well as in rocky areas. They thrive in light, well-draining soil but will also do well in poor soil types. Hence, the tree does especially well in areas that mimic the Middle Eastern and Mediterranean climates. Fig trees have a deep, aggressive root system that searches out groundwater in aquifers, ravines, or through cracks in rocks. Thus, the common fig is especially suited for seasonal drought but that doesn’t mean you should forget about watering a fig tree. Fig tree watering should be fairly consistent, especially if you want to be rewarded with plenty of its succulent fruit.

When to Water Fig Trees

Once a fig tree is established, you probably won’t have to water it unless there is literally no rainfall for a significant period. For younger trees, steps should be taken to provide the tree with adequate irrigation as well as a good layer of mulch to help the tree retain moisture. Figs love to be mulched with organic material such as grass clippings. Mulching also may reduce the incidence of nematodes. So, what are the water requirements for fig trees? A general rule is 1 to 1 ½ inches (2.5-4 cm.) of water per week either from rainfall or irrigation. The tree will let you know if it needs to be watered by the yellowing of its foliage and the dropping of leaves. Don’t put off irrigating fig trees until they become symptomatic. This will only stress the trees and put you at risk for a smaller or less superior crop. If you’re unsure about fig tree watering, dig into the soil with your fingers; if the soil is dry near the surface, it’s time to water the tree.

Tips on Irrigating Fig Trees

The best way to water a fig tree is to allow the hose to run slowly or position a dripline or soaker hose at a distance from the trunk. Tree roots usually grow wider than the canopy, so position your irrigation to water a circle of ground that extends beyond the crown of the fig. The amount and frequency of watering depends on the amount of rainfall, temperatures, and tree size. During hot, rainless periods, a fig may need to be watered once a week or more. Water deeply at least once a month in the summer to rinse away salt deposits as well as to get water to deep roots. Fig trees grown in containers will generally need to be watered more often, especially when outdoor temps climb above 85 degrees F. (29 C.). This may include daily irrigation, but again, feel the soil beforehand to gauge whether or not watering is necessary. Figs don’t like wet feet, so don’t water them too often. Allow the tree to dry a bit between watering. Remember to water slowly and deeply; just don’t overwater. Every ten days to two weeks is sufficient. In the fall, as the tree enters its dormant season, cut back on the watering.

Figs (Ficus carica) belong to the family Moraceae, which includes over 1,000 species. They have been cultivated for thousands of years with remnants having been found in Neolithic excavations dating back to 5,000 B.C. Despite their ancient history, they are not without many of the same fig tree insect pests that plague the tree today. The key to fig tree pest control is learning how to identify common fig tree pests.

Common Fig Tree Insect Pests

The common fig is a deciduous tree to shrub cultivated for its delicious “fruit.” Fig fruit is not actually a fruit but rather a syconium, or a fleshy hollow area with tiny flowers on its interior walls. Hailing from western Asia, figs, depending upon conditions, can live for 50 to 75 years with reliable production. A condition that might impede their longevity is pest infestation on fig trees. One of the more common pests is the nematode, specifically the root knot nematode and the dagger nematode. They reduce tree growth and yield. In the tropics, nematodes are battled by planting the fig close to a wall or building to allow the roots to grow beneath the edifice, thwarting nematode damage. In lieu of planting near a structure, heavy mulch can deter nematodes as can the proper application of nematicides. Adding marigolds around the tree should help too. Other pests found on fig trees include:

• Carpenter worm
• Darkling ground beetle
• Dried fruit beetle
• Earwig
• Freeman sap beetle
• Confused sap beetle
• Fig beetle
• Fig mite
• Fig scale
• Fig tree borer
• Navel orangeworm

Fig Tree Pest Control

There are several plans of attack when treating bugs on figs. Not every pest is controllable, however. For instance, the fig tree borer lays its eggs near the base of a branch and then the resulting larvae hatch and tunnel into the tree. Once the larvae are in the tree, control is extremely difficult. Insecticide can be squirted into the tunnels with a syringe, which is time consuming and exacting. The best defense against borers is a good offense. Enclose the lower portion of the tree in netting to prevent the females from laying their eggs in the bark. Also, cover the top of the netting with foil coated with Vaseline. Treating bugs, such as dried fruit beetles or spider mites on figs, may require spraying. Dried fruit beetles or sap beetles include related species such as the Freeman and Confused sap beetle. They are small black to brown beetles, about 1/10 to 1/5 inch (2.5-5 mm.) long, that may or may not have spotted wings. When they feed on the figs, the fruit spoils and is rendered more attractive to other pests. It is also often infected with Aspergillus niger, a fungal disease that can affect ripening fruit. To combat these beetle pests, set bait traps prior to figs ripening. When the traps have done most of the work of ridding the tree of beetles, spray the tree with an insecticide containing malathion in a sugar/water solution according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Stay clear of the sprayed area for at least 12 hours and do not harvest any figs for three days. Both the Pacific spider mite and two-spotted spider mite may afflict a fig tree. They are both yellowish green with black spots. They feed on the underside of the fig leaves, which causes them to brown and drop. Spider mites do have some predatory insects, such as predaceous mites and six-spotted thrips, that will kill them; otherwise, smother them with a horticultural oil mixed with water or a pesticide that has bifenazate in it. If you use a spray with bifenazate, be warned that you should not eat the figs for an entire year. Earwigs don’t really pose a threat to fig trees but they will eat the fruit. An insecticide that contains spinosad will most likely kill them. The larva of the carpenter worm burrows under the bark of the fig and can kill entire branches. The larvae are easily recognizable as 2 inch (5 cm.) cream colored grubs that exude sap and sawdust as they feed. A parasitic nematode, Steinernema feltiae, will help to control them. Unfortunately, in the case of the darkling ground beetle, there is no biological or chemical control. These ¼ inch (6 mm.), dull black beetles and their larvae feed on decaying detritus at the base of the tree and in the surrounding soil. The best defense in this case is sanitation; keep the area around the tree free from weeds and harvest ripe figs immediately.

Most probably native to Asia, figs were spread throughout the Mediterranean. They are a member of the genus Ficus and in the family Moraceae, which contains 2,000 tropical and subtropical species. Both of these facts indicate that fig trees enjoy warmer temps and probably won't do too well if you live in say, USDA zone 5. Fear not, fig lovers living in cool regions; there are some cold hardy fig varieties.

How Cold Hardy are Fig Trees?

So, just how cold hardy are fig trees? Well, you can cultivate cold hardy fig trees in areas where the minimum winter temperatures do not dip below 5 degrees F. (-15 C.). Keep in mind, though, that stem tissue can be damaged at temps well above 5 degrees F., especially if it is a prolonged cold snap. Established or mature winter hardy figs are more likely to survive an extended cold snap. Young trees of less than two to five years old are likely to die back to the ground, especially if they have “wet feet” or roots.

Best Cold Hardy Fig Trees

Since figs thrive in warm regions, long periods of cold weather limit growth, ergo fruit set and production, and a lengthy freeze will kill them. Temperatures of -10 to -20 degrees F. (-23 to -26 C.) will definitely kill the fig tree. As mentioned, there are some cold hardy fig varieties, but again, keep in mind that even these will need some type of winter protection. Okay, so what are some winter hardy figs? The three most common cold hardy fig varieties are Chicago, Celeste and English Brown Turkey. These are all also referred to as members of the Common Fig family. Common Figs are self-fertile and there are many, many varieties varying in taste color and growth habit.

• Chicago - Chicago is the most reliable fig for zone 5 planting, as it will produce plenty of fruit during the growing season even if it freezes to the ground in the winter. Fruit of this cultivar is medium to small in size and richly flavored.
• Celeste - Celeste figs, also called Sugar, Conant and Celestial figs, also have small to medium fruit. Celeste is a rapid grower with a shrub-like habit attaining between 12-15 feet (3.5-4.5 m.) at maturity. It will also freeze to the ground in low winter temps but will rebound in the spring. This particular cultivar is a little less likely to rebound than Chicago though, so it is best to protect it during the winter months.
• Brown Turkey - Brown Turkey is a prolific bearer of large fruit. In fact, it sometimes produces two crops in a single year, although the flavor is somewhat inferior to other varieties. It also survives extreme cold temperatures just as Celeste and Chicago. Again to err on the safe side, it is best to provide protection during winter months.

Other cold hardy figs include but are not limited to the following:

• Dark Portuguese
• LSU Gold
• Brooklyn White
• Florea
• Gino
• Sweet George
• Adriana
• Tiny Celeste
• Paradiso White
• Archipel
• Lindhurst White
• Jurupa
• Violetta
• Sal's EL
• Alma

Growing Cold Hardy Fig Trees

While the three aforementioned fig varieties are the most common cold hardy figs grown, they are not necessarily the best cold hardy figs for your area. Taking into account a possible micro-climate, particularly in urban areas, a USDA zone may jump from a 6 to a 7, which would greatly broaden the number of varieties to grow in your area. A little trial and error may be in order, as well as discussion with the local Extension office, Master Gardener or nursery to ascertain exactly which fig varieties are suited for your region. Whichever fig you choose, remember that all figs need full sun (a good six hours or more) and well-drained soil. Plant the tree against a protected south wall if possible. You may want to mulch around the base of the tree and or wrap it for protection during the coldest months. Alternatively, grow the tree in a container that can be moved into a protected area like the garage. Any of the figs are gorgeous specimens to have and once established, are fairly drought tolerant and require little added care. They also have few pest or disease issues. The beautiful large-lobed leaves make a dramatic addition to the landscape and let's not forget the heavenly fruit -- up to 40 pounds (18 kg.) from a single mature tree!

There's nothing quite as ambrosial as a ripe fig, plucked fresh from a tree. Make no mistake, these beauties bear no relation to Fig Newton cookies; the flavor is more intense and redolent with natural sugars. If you live in USDA growing zones 8-10, there's a fig for you. What if you live north of Zone 7? No worries, consider planting fig trees in pots. Let's consider how to care for potted fig trees and other info on container grown figs.

Growing Figs in Pots

When growing figs in pots, the first consideration is to ascertain the appropriate varieties suitable for container grown figs. The following cultivars are suitable for fig tree container planting:

• Blanche, also known as Italian honey fig, Lattarula and White Marseille, is a slow grower with a dense canopy that bear medium to large lemon scented fruits.
• Brown Turkey is a popular cultivar for fig tree container planting and is also known as Aubique Noire or Negro Largo. This variety is a small cultivar that produces abundant medium sized fruit. It is especially suited to containers due to its tolerance for heavy pruning, which in turn results in larger fruit crops.
• Celeste, also known as Honey, Malta, Sugar or Violette fig, is another small fig tree with plentiful fruit production most commonly grown and eaten as a dried fig.
• Verte, or Green Ischia, fig has the benefit of producing fruit over a short growing season.
• Ventura is a compact fig that produces large figs which ripen late in the season and are suited to the cooler climates. Chicago is another cool weather cultivar.

You can purchase plants from reputable nurseries or, if your neighbor has a lovely fig to share, propagate from spring divisions or summer cuttings from mature trees. Root suckers can also be pulled and propagated in the spring or branches can be fastened to the ground and layered or tip rooted. Once rooted, remove the new plant from the mother and transplant into the container.

How to Care for Potted Fig Trees

A container suitable for planting fig trees in pots should be large. Half whiskey barrels are ideal, but any container large enough to accommodate the root ball plus some growing space is fine. You can always transplant the tree in later years as it outgrows the container. Placing the pot on casters makes for ease of movement if the tree needs to be moved during cool months to a protected area. Figs crave sun, so choose a site with as much exposure as possible, preferably next to a south-facing wall. The soil pH should be between 6.0 to 6.5. Plant new fig trees in the spring after all danger of frost for your area has passed. You can use regular organic potting soil or make your own mix as long as it is loamy, well-drained and contains plenty of compost or well-rotted manure. Mix in soilless media to lighten heavy soil and facilitate aeration and drainage. As you plant the tree, backfill it to 2 inches (5 cm.) below the top of the container; take care to ensure the point where the trunk meets the root ball is level with the soil. Water the container fig when the soil is dry to an inch (2.5 cm.) below the surface. Keep in mind that container grown trees dry out more quickly than those in the garden. If you let the tree dry out too much, the stress may cause it to lose its leaves or lessen fruit production. Use a foliar spray or diluted liquid seaweed mix, compost or manure tea each month to promote health and encourage prolific fruit set. When fruit begins to form, be sure to provide the tree with adequate water to promote juicy, plump fruit. Figs can be pruned back to restrict size. Suckers can also be removed throughout the growing season and then pass them on to friends or relatives to propagate. As temperatures begin to drop, it is a good idea to protect the tree. Some people wrap the tree, but the easiest thing to do is roll it into an unheated, generally unlit area such as a garage. This will be enough to protect the fig from freezes, but allow it to go into a necessary dormant period. Planting fig tree in pots has the added benefit of improving yields and reducing the harvest date due to root restriction. They are also gorgeous trees that enliven the deck or patio with the promise of sweet figs to come.

Fresh figs are high in sugar and naturally sweet when ripe. Dried figs are delicious in their own right, but they must be ripe first, prior to dehydrating for optimal flavor. Fresh picked fig tree fruit that is dry inside is definitely not desirable, however. If you have what appears to be ripe figs, but they are dry inside, what's going on?

Reasons for Dry Fig Fruit

One of the more common reasons for tough, dry fig fruit may have to do with the weather. If you have had an especially long spell of excessive heat or drought, the quality of the fig fruit will be compromised, resulting in fig tree fruit that is dry inside. Of course, there isn't much you can control about the weather, but you can make sure to irrigate more frequently and mulch around the tree with straw to aid in water retention and generally reduce environmental stress. Another possible culprit, resulting in tough dry figs, may be a lack of nutrients. In order for the tree to produce sweet, juicy fruit, it must have water, sunlight, and soil nutrients to facilitate the production of glucose. While fig trees are fairly tolerant of soil makeup, it does need to be well drained and aerated. Amend the soil with compost or manure prior to planting a fig sapling and, thereafter, feed the tree with a liquid fertilizer. Figs don't always need to be fertilized, however. Fertilize your fig tree if there is less than 1 foot (31 cm.) of new growth in the course of a year. Look for fertilizers that are made for fruit trees or use a high phosphate and high potassium fertilizer to promote fruit set. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers; figs don't need much nitrogen. Apply the fertilizer when the tree is dormant during the late fall, winter, and again in early spring.

Additional Reasons for Dry Fig Fruit

Lastly, another reason for seeing ripe figs that are dry inside may be that you are growing a “caprifig.” What is a caprifig? A caprifig is a wild male fig that is home to the fig wasp responsible for pollinating female fig trees. This is most likely the case if your fig tree is there by happenstance instead of a tree that you selected from known cuttings at a nursery. There is an easy fix if this is the case-- simply plant a female fig near the male fig.

Archeologists have found carbonized remains of fig trees aged between 11,400 and 11,200 years old, making the fig one of the first domesticated plants, possibly predating wheat and rye cultivation. Despite its historical longevity, this species is relatively delicate, and in some climates may require fig tree winter wrapping to survive the cold season.

Why Does a Fig Tree Need Cover for Winter?

The common fig, Ficus carica, is one of over 800 species of tropical and subtropical fig varieties in the genus Ficus. Found amongst this diverse group, one will find not only large trees, but trailing vine varieties as well. Figs are native to the Middle East, but have been brought to all corners of the globe that can accommodate their habitat. Figs were first introduced to North America by early colonists. They can now be found in Virginia to California to New Jersey to Washington State. Many immigrants brought prized fig starts from the “old country” to their new homeland in the United States. As a result, fig trees can be found in urban and suburban backyards in many USDA growing zones. Because of these diverse climatic growing areas, a fig tree cover or wrap for winter is often a necessity. Fig trees are tolerant of mild freezing temperatures, but extreme cold may kill the tree or damage it irreparably. Remember, the species heralds from tropical and subtropical regions.

How to Wrap Fig Trees

To protect a fig tree from cold winter temps, some people grow them in pots that can be moved into an indoor area to over winter, while others undertake wrapping the fig tree for winter. This can be as simple as wrapping a fig tree in some type of covering, to folding the entire tree down into a trench and then covering it with soil or mulch. The last method is pretty extreme, and in most cases a fig tree winter wrapping is sufficient to protect the plant during the winter months. Begin to consider wrapping a fig tree in the late autumn. Of course, this depends on where you live, but the basic rule is to wrap the tree after it has been exposed to a freeze and has lost its leaves. If you wrap the fig too early, the tree may mildew. Before wrapping the fig tree for winter, prune the tree so it is easier to wrap. Choose three to four trunks and cut all others back. This will give you a good open canopy that will allow sun to penetrate for the next growing season. Next, tie the remaining branches together with organic twine. Now it is time to wrap the tree. You can use an old piece of carpet, old blankets or a large piece of fiberglass insulation. Drape this winter fig tree cover with a tarp, but don't use a black or clear plastic, which may result in too much heat building up inside the cover on sunny days. The tarp should have some small holes in it to allow heat to escape. Tie the tarp with some heavy cord. Keep an eye on the temperature later in winter and earliest spring. You don't want to keep the fig tree wrapping for winter on when it starts to warm up. When you unwrap the fig in the spring, there may be some brown tips, but these can be pruned with no damage to the tree.

Fig trees are popular home and landscape plants throughout the United States. Although beloved by many, figs can be fickle plants, responding dramatically to changes in their environment. If your fig tree is dropping leaves, this may be a normal response, considering it's a deciduous tree, but it could also be a form of protest to growing conditions.

Do Fig Trees Lose Leaves?

Leaf drop on figs is a common problem, but it's not usually fatal if you can figure out why your plant's leaves are suddenly falling. The most common causes of fig tree leaf drop include:

• Winter - The chill of late fall signals to figs that it's time to go dormant and spend the winter in deep sleep. Dormancy is vital to many fig species and a perfectly normal part of their life cycles. Yearly leaf drop is nothing to worry about -- new leaves will emerge in spring.
• Abrupt Environmental Changes - Figs stress easily, so if you intend to change the lighting, humidity, or temperature of your fig's environment by moving the tree, make sure you do so slowly. Gradually expose your fig to the new conditions, starting with just an hour a day and increasing its time in the new spot over the course of about two weeks. Slow-moving will help prevent shock and keep the leaves on your fig, where they belong.
• Improper Watering - Watering some plants is trickier than others and this is doubly true for figs. Both overwatering and underwatering can result in fig tree leaf drop. Instead of watering on a schedule, water your fig any time the soil, 1 inch (2.5 cm.) below the surface, is dry to the touch. Water deeply, until plenty of water comes out through the bottom of the pot, discarding the excess when it finishes draining.
• Pests - Scale insects and spider mites are common fig pests that can cause leaf drop with their feeding activities. Scale insects often blend in, looking more like a fungus or unusual growth on the plant than typical insects. Spider mites are too small to see with the naked eye, but you may notice fine silk threads on your fig's leaves. Both can be smothered with weekly neem oil treatments.

There's nothing like taking a bite of a big, sweet, juicy fig. If you happen to be lucky enough to have a fig tree in your home garden, then conversely, there is nothing more tragic than small, inedible figs on the tree. What then are some reasons for a fig with small fruit and are there any solutions?

Why is My Fig Tree Fruit Small?

Figs are unique among fruit. Unlike most fruit, which is composed of edible matured ovary tissue, a fig is actually an inverted flower with both male and female parts enclosed within the stem tissue. Once ripened, the fig contains the remains of these flower parts, including what we most commonly refer to as seeds. It is these “seeds” that give the fig its unique flavor. A fig is at its peak when the fruit is large, plump, and juicy, so when a fig tree produces small figs, this is a problem. Some varieties of fig tree do bear smaller fruit, so if you want large figs, try planting a different variety, such as ‘Brown Turkey,' which bears some of the largest fruit among the cultivars. Fig trees have shallow root systems which are sensitive to stress. Overly hot, dry weather and lack of irrigation will definitely result in figs that are too small or even trigger fruit drop.

How to Fix Small Figs on Trees

When fig tree fruit is small, there are things you can do -- mostly in the form of prevention. To combat a fig with small fruit, be sure to mulch around the tree, maybe even set up a drip hose under the mulch to keep it irrigated. Figs will tolerate most types of soil, so long as it is well-draining. Poor drainage decreases the amount of oxygen available to the tree and may result in figs that are too small, fruit that will not ripen or just drop. Avoid areas where water stands for more than 24 hours. Plant fig trees in an area with maximum sun exposure to promote a good fruit set and avoid a fig tree that produces small figs. Only minimal fertilization is needed; a spring application of fertilizer for trees in the ground and a few times through the summer for potted figs. Speaking of potted figs. Figs grow very well in containers, which restrain their root growth and allow more energy to go to a flourishing fruit set. They do need more frequent watering than those grown directly in the garden soil. Container-planted figs should be repotted and the roots pruned every two to three years to foster plump fruit and avoid figs that are too small. Bring potted figs inside in late fall and overwinter in a cool area while keeping the soil moist. Once all danger of frost has passed, bring the fig back outside into a southern exposure. Lastly, it is important to purchase a self-fruiting cultivar: those not requiring cross-pollination. Or, if you have a male fig tree, plant a lady friend close by to allow for pollination via the honeybees. This will aid in gaining a good fruit set with plump, juicy fig production.

I love dried fruit, particularly dried figs, which prior to drying must ripen on the tree first to enhance their high sugar content. If you're having issues with mummified or dried up fig tree fruit, it could be the result of several things.

About Dry Fig Fruit on Trees

Fig trees are extremely shallow rooted and as such, are susceptible to stress. High temperatures and lack of water during summer months will certainly impact the tree, resulting in dry fig fruit on trees. Be sure to mulch heavily around the plant to retain water. Consider putting a soaker or drip hose under the mulch. Another possible origin for withering figs may be that you have a male tree, which produces fruit but whose sole purpose is to cross-pollinate a female fig tree. These figs never ripen, and while they may not exactly be termed as drying on the tree, they are indeed inedible. To solve this issue, take a cutting from a female fig and plant it next to the boyfriend. Proper nutrition is another key to preventing mummified fig tree fruit. If your figs are shriveling up, it is likely that they are not getting the nutrition they need to make glucose, the good stuff that aids in ripening the fruit into sweet, soft and juicy figs. While fig trees are fairly tolerant of their soil, it does need to be well draining so the plant gets plenty of oxygen. Use a good manure or compost, amended into the soil to nourish it, and then feed the fig tree with a liquid food once fruit sets. Some diseases, such as fig rust, or other leaf spot diseases, and twig blight may not only affect foliage but also the fruit. Figs may wither or fail to mature. Dispose of old leaves to prevent re-infection and use neutral copper spray to combat these diseases. Lastly, the root system of fig trees is shallow but prone to spreading too far, which will affect the fruit. Corral the roots by growing the tree in a large pot or in the ground surrounded by paving of some sort to retard rampant spreading. Also, the fig tree should be grown facing south or southwest, sheltered from the elements and with as much sun exposure as possible. Dried up fig fruit need not be a problem. Simply follow these simple tips so you can enjoy sweet, plump fig fruit year after year.

Many fruit trees are invaded by ants, but ants on fig trees can be especially problematic because many types of figs have an opening through which these insects can readily enter and spoil the fruit. Learn more about controlling ants in fig trees in this article.

Reasons for Fig Tree Ants

Botanically speaking, fig is not exactly a fruit; it is a special structure called synconium, which protects a bunch of tiny flowers that are arranged within its cavity. There is a small opening called ostiole, or eye, through which wasps enter the chamber inside and fertilize the flowers. When the fig is ripe, other insects (including ants) also enter the fruit through this opening to take a free meal. Figs need to be ripened on the tree because they stop sugar conversion once plucked. Fig tree ripening is often accompanied by the oozing out of a drop of sweet nectar through the eye. Modern cultivars have been developed to do away with fertilization and they have closed eyes. However, that does not keep ants off fig trees. You may find ants in fig trees that are not bearing any fruits. If you observe closely, you'll find colonies of aphids and other soft-bodied pests on the tender branches and under the leaves of the fig tree. The fig tree ants are farming these insects to harvest honeydew, so the first step in protecting fig trees from ants is to protect them from honeydew-secreting insects. Ants often carry aphids from other plants that harbor them; they protect aphids from their natural enemies too. Measures to control ants in fig trees involve restricting their movement to and from the trees. Chemicals can effectively control aphids and ants, but they are better avoided in fruit trees. Any day, natural control measures are preferable to chemical control.

Controlling Ants in Fig Trees

Here are some eco-friendly and non-toxic tips to prevent ants from colonizing your fig tree and spoiling your fig crop:

• Clean the area around the fig tree of all debris - Keeping the a few feet around the tree spotlessly clean will help you observe ant movements so that you can take protective measures immediately.
• Spray the fig tree with water - Use a powerful water jet to dislodge aphids, whiteflies and mealybugs from the trees. Keep at it for several days in a row and ensure that the tree as well as the ground around remains wet. It may persuade the ants to look for another host for its farming operations. Neem oil will also help get rid of the honeydew secreting insects.
• Remove plants and trees that serve as hosts to honeydew insects and ants - Look for aphid infestation and ant colonies in your yard and destroy the host plants.
• Introduce mechanical barriers - Chalk powder or diatomaceous earth may be spread around the base of the fig tree to create a mechanical barrier. The latter can destroy ant colonies when ants carry the sharp pieces home.
• Install traps for ants - Mechanical traps for ants include sticky materials such as petroleum jelly or Tanglefoot. Tie a band of tape around the tree and smear the sticky material. You may have to observe the movement of the ants and replenish the sticky barrier once every week or so. Biological traps can be made with edible material that will kill the ants on ingestion. Powdered sugar mixed with boric acid powder or cornmeal can kill the ants that eat it.
• Plant a circle of ant-repelling plants around the fig tree - Odoriferous plants like geranium, chrysanthemum and garlic are known to repel ants. Make protective cordon around the tree with these plants.

With early intervention and constant diligence, you can keep ants away from the fig tree without resorting to chemical sprays.

The relationship you have with a fig tree is unique and precious – but it can sometimes feel like it’s defined by paradox. They behave in many ways like they don’t require much regular attention, until they do. They may seem like they don’t give a hoot about anything apart from sunshine – until you notice that they are sulking in a corner, possibly with yellow leaves, odd looking marble growths where fruits should be – or worse, no fruits at all.

Feeding plays a big part of plant care for a lot of fruit trees, but when growing figs it can feel confusing at times. While edible fig trees are rugged enough to grow out of stone walls in the Mediterranean, they can become absolute divas if you give them too much of the wrong fig tree fertilizer at the wrong time – or don’t feed them at all.

The correct feeding routine isn't just about administering a couple of applications of all-purpose feed and walking away. It’s about understanding the delicate balance between vegetative growth and fruit set. Whether you’re in a cooler climate, dealing with sandy soil, or nursing a container-based fig towards its first harvest, a little strategic nutrition can go a long way. Here’s how to master the art of fig tree fertilization so you can encourage healthy growth and sugar-sweet crops.

Why Feed Fig Trees?

You might think that because figs are so vigorous, they don’t need any extra help. In the wild, they certainly manage, but typical yard life is a bit different. We may often clear away some of the natural organic duff that would break down and feed fig roots. Without that natural cycle, the soil can lose some of the nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK) necessary for the tree to sustain a surplus of sugary fruit.

Fertilizing figs is primarily about supporting vigor, but with a catch. You want enough energy for the tree to produce around 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) of new growth a year, as that's where the main crop of figs will form. However, we have to be careful not to trigger too much growth. If a fig tree is over-fed, it puts all its energy into making giant leaves and long, lanky branches, and forgets to develop fruit for fig harvests.

A well-fed tree is a resilient tree. Proper nutrition, especially with micronutrients like magnesium and calcium, helps cellular structure. It also means it’s more able to stand up to common problems such as fig rust, or make the most of a hot summer. Think of your fruit tree fertilizer not as a fix-all but as a multivitamin that keeps the tree's immune system in tip-top shape. It helps to get a sense of existing nutrient levels before you feed. You can buy the Raintrip Soil Meter from Amazon to test for nutrient load as well as soil pH, light levels, and soil pH.

Best Fig Fertilizers to Try

When shopping for fig fertilizer options, look for a balanced ratio or one that is slightly potassium-leaning. Figs aren't overly demanding, but they do appreciate slow and steady over fast and flashy. Below are some of the best options for different needs. If you have very acidic soil, your fig might benefit from a dusting of garden lime, such as Espoma Organic Garden Lime from Lowe’s. Figs prefer a slightly alkaline to neutral pH (6-7.5), which reflects native growing conditions, in order to take up nutrients efficiently. Check soil pH before adding any soil amendments.

When to Feed Figs

Timing is everything. The ideal time to start feeding is early spring, just as the buds begin to swell and the plants are breaking dormancy. For most of us, this will be some point between late February and early April. You can give your figs a second, lighter application in late May or June to support developing fruit.

One of the key guidelines for feeding figs is knowing when to stop – and for many fig varieties, this needs to be around 2.5 months before you anticipate first fall frosts in your area. You might have heard that July 4th is referenced as being the last day for feeding figs in summer. I’m not saying that it’s the end of the world if you reach for the liquid feed on the 5th July. But it’s smart to keep that first fall frost timing in mind, and work backwards.

Any new growth you promote late in the growing season will be tender. If the tree is still pumping out new leaves in September, that wood won't have had time to become woody and tough when those first frosts hit. This potentially leaves your tree vulnerable to winter snaps. However, if you are growing figs in warmer regions, or in containers, you can add a little potash later in summer to encourage fruits along. You can buy dedicated Muriate of Potash from Amazon and add it as a light application.

Also, avoid feeding a tree that is already under stress from drought or disease. Adding salt-heavy fertilizers to a thirsty tree can actually pull moisture out of the roots, making the problem worse. Always water your tree thoroughly the day before you plan to fertilize to ensure the roots are hydrated and ready to eat.

How to Feed Figs

Applying fertilizer is an art, not a science. For granular fertilizers, it’s not a good idea to just dump them at the base of the trunk. The feeder roots that absorb the nutrients are usually located at the drip line, the area under the outermost circle of the tree’s canopy. Scatter the granules evenly in this circle and lightly fold them into the top inch of soil with a hand rake.

If you prefer liquid feeding, follow the instructions and maintain a regular fortnightly feed during the growing season, but stop when figs are ripening. Soil drenching is standard, but foliar feeding is also an option. Spray a diluted liquid seaweed or fish emulsion directly onto the leaves early in the morning. You can buy Down to Earth Organic Kelp Meal from Amazon for a super-supplement that gives great fruit flavor. The leaves absorb the nutrients for a quick pick-me-up in an intense growing season.

Also, don't forget the power of mulching. After you fertilize in the spring, lay down a 2-3 inch (5-8 cm) layer of organic mulch, like composted arborist chips, well-rotted manure, or a commercial blend such as Back to the Roots Organic Mulch from Amazon. This acts as another slow-release nutrient save through summer, while also keeping the roots cool and moist. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the actual trunk to prevent rot.

Feeding Figs in Containers

Growing figs in pots creates another element of surprise when it comes to feeding. Because you are likely watering container plants more frequently than you would ground-based figs, the nutrients will literally be dribbling out of the bottom of the pot every time you hydrate them.

For container figs, I recommend a dual-approach. Start the season with a slow-release organic granular mixed into the top few inches. A good slow-release granular option is Espoma Organic 5-3-3 from Lowe’s which is gentle and great for healthy soil. From May through June, supplement with a half-strength liquid fertilizer every fortnight.

Proper drainage is the secret partner to good fertilization. Yes, it’s frustrating that some goodness is dribbling away – but as long as you maintain feeding, you also need to bear in mind that figs need well draining conditions. I suggest using pot toes like Choclaif Pot Feet for Large Planters, available from Amazon, to lift containers off the ground. This also allows oxygen to circulate and prevents salt buildup at the bottom of the pot, which can happen when fertilizer-laden water has nowhere to go. Plus, it saves your deck from unsightly stains.

Be mindful of soil volume. A fig tree in a small pot will become root bound quickly, and no amount of fertilizer can fix a lack of soil space. If you notice your container fig is constantly thirsty or the leaves are turning yellow despite feeding, it might be time to switch up into a (slightly) larger vessel with fresh, nutrient-rich potting mix.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

One common problem with feeding is the nitrogen trap. We love to see trees grow, so we hit them with high-nitrogen feeds. The result can often be a lush tree with scooches of leaves but zero figs. If your tree is putting on more than 12 inches (30 cm) of growth a year, it’s best to put the fertilizer away. It's already got plenty of fuel.

Another common error is fertilizing dry soil. Granular fertilizers are essentially salts. If you put them on bone-dry soil, they can burn the delicate root hairs, leading to leaf drop. Always ensure the ground is moist both before and after you apply your fig feed to help the nutrients move into the soil profile, where they belong.

Don’t be tempted to think that more equals better. Using more fertilizer than the package recommends won't give you super figs. It will likely just lead to a salt crust on the soil surface, which prevents water from soaking in and can eventually kill the beneficial fungi (mycorrhizae) that help your fig tree's roots to function properly. Follow the label, and exercise restraint and moderation as well as plant care.

Sometimes gardeners see yellow or brown spots on fig leaves and think it’s a nutritional deficiency, so they add more fertilizer, when the issue could be fig rust or similar. If you see this in tandem with premature leaf drop into summer, fig rust could be the culprit. Take care not to make the problem worse by overfeeding your figs.

Regional Feeding

While this feeding advice is sound for most fig-growing needs, it’s fair to say that a gardener in Georgia may have different fruit-growing battles than one in southern California. Depending on your growing zone, bear the following in mind:

• The Southeast & Gulf Coast: In places like Louisiana or Florida, heavy summer rains can leach nutrients out of the soil faster than the tree can grab them. You might prefer slow-release granules over liquids to ensure the food doesn't wash away in a tropical downpour.
• The Southwest & West Coast: In arid regions, irrigation water often has high mineral content. Fertilizing on top of that can cause salt burn. Try deep watering once a month to flush salts away from the root zone.
• The Northeast & Midwest: For those growing figs in bins in Chicago or NYC, that July 4th cutoff is more critical. Stop feeding earlier (say, mid-June) to ensure the tree enters dormancy before the harsh freeze.

Frequently Asked Questions

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Do you have a fig tree in your yard? Maybe you have noticed oddly shaped yellow blotches contrasting starkly with the otherwise normal green foliage. If so, the culprit most likely is fig mosaic virus, also referred to as fig tree mosaic.

What is Fig Mosaic?

If you suspect the virus is the issue with your fig tree, it will be helpful to establish exactly what fig mosaic is. Fig tree mosaic is caused by several indeterminate viruses. Recently, one virus, closteovirus or fig leaf mottle, has been associated with fig tree mosaic just as it is with almost all diseased fig trees. Fig tree virus is almost surely introduced into the plant via the eriophyid mite (Aceria fici) and additionally through vegetative cuttings and grafting. Fig mosaic virus does not discriminate, afflicting both leaves and fruit equally. On foliage, as mentioned, the yellow mosaic spots are clearly visible and tend to bleed into the otherwise healthy green of the leaf. These lesions may be uniformly spaced over the leaf surface or splotched haphazardly across the leaf blade. Eventually, a rust-colored band appears along the border of the mosaic lesion, which is a direct result of the death of epidermal or sub-epidermal cells. Fig mosaic lesions on fruit are similar in appearance although not quite as pronounced. The result in most cultivars of fig tree virus is premature fruit drop or minimal fruit production. Black Mission fig trees are more seriously damaged than its relations, Kadota and Calimyrna. Ficus palmata or trees engendered from seedlings having F. palmata as the male parent are immune to fig tree mosaic.

How to Treat Fig Mosaic Disease

So, how do we go about treating fig mosaic disease? There is good news and bad news, so let's get the bad news out of the way. If your fig tree exhibits signs of fig tree mosaic, there are no chemical controls shown to be effective in treatment or extermination of this disease. Controlling the fig mites then, may be your only hope for treating fig mosaic disease. A variety of horticultural oils (crop oil, citrus oil, etc.) may be used to manage the infiltration of mites and, hence, aid in the cessation or at least progression of the disease. Ideally, prior to planting a fig tree, choose trees that show no signs of fig tree mosaic. Obviously, do not transplant or take cuttings from any fig trees that you suspect may be infected with mosaic.

Fig trees, native to western Asia, are somewhat tropical in appearance with a beautiful, rounded growing habit. Although they have no flowers (as these are in the fruit), fig trees have beautiful gray bark and tropical lobed deciduous leaves. Fig fruits are naturally sweet, pear-shaped, and dark brown to purple in color. Most fig tree varieties can be grown in USDA plant hardiness zones 7 through 10, although some are also found in zones 5b and 6. If you have space, a fig tree makes a delicious and attractive addition to any landscape. However, don't fret if your garden is small. If you don't have a large enough space but have a section of east or south-facing wall or fence, consider creating an espalier. Let's find out more about fruit tree espalier and how to espalier figs.

Can You Espalier a Fig Tree?

Espaliers have been around for a very long time and are now experiencing a comeback with more people interested in sustainability. So, if you have been wondering if you can espalier a fig tree, the answer is absolutely, yes. The natural shape and strength of the fig tree trunk and pliable branches makes it a perfect tree for an espalier project. Fruit tree espalier drawings, especially figs, have been depicted on Egyptian tomb walls and in art through the Middle Ages. Not only are espaliers a great way to cover an empty wall, but they are also a practical way to introduce fruit trees into a compact space without compromising on beauty or fruit production.

How to Espalier Figs

Space needs to be one of your first considerations. Although a fig tree may reach only 30 feet (9 m.) in height, its shallow spreading root system needs ample space to grow, as it can spread 50 feet (15 m.). Although branches can be trimmed, the root system needs room to spread so keep this in mind when choosing a location for your espalier. You can also select a dwarf cultivar if you have a smaller area. The first step in creating an espalier is to plant a young fig tree about 6 inches (15 cm.) from the wall or fence. If you do not have a wall or a trellis available, you can also create a trellis-type structure to support the tree. Place horizontal wires on your support wall, fence, or structure in the desired espalier shape. Horizontal and fan shapes are popular. As young branches grow, train them to these guide wires. While training your tree, there are two times that you will need to prune. Prune once in the winter when the tree is dormant. This is the time when the most pruning of figs should be happening. A good winter prune will stimulate spring growth. Prune again in the spring for creating the tree shape, and as the tree grows in the summer, you will need to be sure that the tree is following the guide wires. Pruning and training a young fig tree takes patience. It can take up to four years to produce a beautiful espalier that produces a bountiful harvest. Remember, the espalier of fig trees requires that you cut back to a bud, lateral branch, or main trunk and try not to leave any stubs on the branches.

Additional Fig Espalier Info

If fruit production is not an issue and you desire a fig espalier for its aesthetic value only, you can prune as frequently as you wish. However, in order to keep up fruit production, it is necessary to remember that figs put fruit on branches that are one year old, so avoid late winter pruning once you have created your desired espalier shape. The best time to prune is in the fall after you harvest figs.

If you are lucky enough to have a fig tree in your landscape, you have access to some wonderfully sweet and nutritious fruit. Fig trees are beautiful, deciduous trees that can reach a mature height of up to 50 feet (15 m.), but typically between 10 and 20 feet (3-6 m.), making harvest fairly easy. Harvesting figs in the right manner and at the right time allows you to get the most from your tree.

When to Pick Figs

Wait until the figs are ripe to harvest. Figs will not continue to ripen after they are picked like many other fruits. You can tell that it is time for harvesting figs when the fruit necks wilt and the fruits hang down. If you pick a fig fruit too early, it will taste horrible; ripe fruit is sweet and delicious. As long as the fruit is still perpendicular to the stem, it is not ready to be picked. A perfectly ripe fig will also emit its nectar at its peak and be soft to touch. It is always better to error on the side of picking a fig that is slightly overripe than underripe. You can also watch for fruit color changes as the season progresses. The fruit will change as it gets riper. Each fig type has different colors and ripeness can vary from green to dark brown. Once you know what color your figs change to as they ripen, you will have a better idea of what to look for. Be sure to harvest in the morning on a partly cloudy day for the best results.

How to Harvest Figs

Figs are easy to harvest when they are ripe. One essential rule regarding fig tree harvesting is to handle the ripe fruit as little as possible to avoid bruising. Pull or cut the fruit gently from the stem, leaving some of the stem attached to the fig to help delay fruit spoilage. Place the figs in a shallow dish and do not pack them tightly on top of each other, as they bruise easily. Use caution when working above your head or on a ladder. If you have a tall tree, it's helpful to have an assistant while you pick. Note: Some people are allergic to fig latex, the milky, white sap that oozes from the leaves and branches and from the stems of unripe figs. The sap can cause itchy, painful dermatitis that can become worse when exposed to sunlight. If you are allergic to latex, be sure to wear long sleeves and gloves when harvesting figs.

Storing Fresh Figs

It is best to eat, use, dry, or freeze figs as soon as possible after harvest. If you dry the figs either in the sun or using a dehydrator, they will last for up to three years in the freezer. You can wash and dry the figs and place them on a baking sheet (not touching) and freeze until hard. Once the fruit is hard you can transfer them to a container and store them in the freezer for up to three years. Fresh figs will keep in the refrigerator when placed in a single layer on a tray. The tray should be placed in the coldest part of your refrigerator, usually the crisper. However, don't place the figs close to fresh vegetables, as they can cause the veggies to rot quickly. Eat figs stored in the refrigerator within three days.

When you consider the number of fig tree varieties available, choosing the right one for your garden is a daunting task. Most home landscapes have room for only one tree, and you want a fig tree that produces an abundance of sweet, tender figs with a minimum of fuss. Here are some suggestions to help you make the right choice.

How Many Types of Fig Trees are There?

There are over 700 named varieties of fig trees, but many of them are of no use to home gardeners. All of the varieties fall into four fig types:

• Caprifigs - Caprifigs only produce male flowers and never bear fruit. Their only purpose is to pollinate female fig trees.
• Smyrna - Smyrna figs bear all female flowers. They have to be pollinated by a caprifig.
• San Pedro - San Pedro figs bear two crops: one on leafless mature wood that requires no pollination and one on new wood that requires pollination by a male flower.
• Common figs - Common figs are the type usually grown in home landscapes. They don't need another tree for pollination. Figs that require pollination have an opening that allows the pollinating wasps entry to the internal flowers. Common figs don't need an opening, so they are less susceptible to rot caused by insects and rainwater entering the fruit.

Here are some different types of figs in the common group that perform well in home gardens:

• Celeste- Celeste is a small to medium sized brown or purple fig that grows on a fairly large tree. It produces dessert quality fruit that ripens earlier than most other figs.
• Alma figs- These aren't much to look at but the fruit has excellent, rich flavor. It ripens late in the season.
• Brown Turkey- Brown Turkey produces a crop of large, tasty figs over a long season. The fruit has attractive flesh and few seeds.
• Purple Genca- Also called Black Genoa or Black Spanish, is a large, deep purple variety with sweet, red flesh.

One of the best ways to find a variety suitable to your area is to visit a local nursery. They will carry fig types suitable for your climate and can make recommendations based on local experience.

Figs are an old-world fruit that grow on trees suited to Mediterranean climates. Figs belong to the genus Ficus, a common group of houseplants. Figs that produce fruit need bright light and protection from cold. Although many varieties of fig become huge trees, some types are suitable for container growing. Good potted fig tree care must include knowledge on how to prune fig trees in containers. The home gardener may wonder, “When can I prune my container fig tree?” Read on for tips on pruning fig trees.

Potted Fig Trees

Figs for small spaces or areas with hard winters thrive in containers where they can be moved indoors for winter. Choose a fig variety that is suitable for your zone and with the degree of hardiness necessary to thrive where you live. If you want fruit, you will also need to choose a plant that can self-pollinate. Provide well-drained soil, a large container, and even moisture. Fertilize in spring to promote the new flush of growth and formation of fruit. The plant needs little pruning except when young to help create a strong frame. Learn how to prune fig trees in containers to accent the shape and formation of fruit on potted fig trees.

When Can I Prune My Container Fig Tree?

The best time for pruning fig trees is after fruit has ripened, usually in midsummer. This allows time to harden off the fresh growth that is stimulated by cutting. Young trees respond well to light pruning that creates an even scaffold of strong branches. Fruit is born on the previous season's growth, so avoid removing those terminal branches.

How to Prune Fig Trees in Containers

Start any pruning project with clean sharp tools. A handheld bypass pruner is probably all you will need. On young potted fig trees, remove any suckers that come up from the rootstock and trim off excess branches to leave three to four strong peripheral branches. Choose one straight stem for a central leader. Pruning fig trees that are mature only requires removal of dead and broken stems. Be careful not to cut into the parent wood and leave a clean cut that will seal quickly.

How to Prune a Bonsai Fig Tree

Bonsai is an ancient form of container gardening that relies upon root and stem pruning to create an aesthetic form and diminutive size. There are specific rules on how to prune a bonsai fig tree. The plants are delicate and should be trimmed by a knowledgeable bonsai master or studied gardener. Special bonsai pruning kits will have all the unique tools necessary for pruning a bonsai fig. If the process is done right, the result is a handsome contorted, tiny tree. Methods on how to prune a bonsai fig tree can be found at your extension office or from bonsai experts.

Fig trees are a popular Mediterranean fruit that can be grown in the home garden. While it is commonly found in warmer climates, there are some methods for fig cold protection that can allow gardeners in cooler climates to keep their figs over the winter. Fig tree care in winter takes a little work, but the reward for winterizing a fig tree is delicious, home-grown figs year after year. Fig trees need winter protection in areas where the temperatures will drop below 25 degrees F. (-3 C.). There are two types of fig wintering that can be done. The first is fig tree winter protection for fig trees in the ground. The other is fig tree winter storage for trees in containers. We'll look at both.

Ground Planted Fig Tree Winter Protection

If you live in a colder climate and you'd like to try to grow figs in the ground, winterizing a fig tree properly is especially important to your success. First, before you plant, try to locate a cold hardy fig tree. Some examples are:

• Celeste Figs
• Brown Turkey Figs
• Chicago Figs
• Ventura Figs

Planting a cold hardy fig will greatly increase your chances of successfully wintering a fig tree. You can implement your fig tree winter protection after the fig tree has lost all of its leaves in the fall. Start your fig tree winter care by pruning your tree. Prune away any branches that are weak, diseased or crossing other branches. Next, tie the branches together to create a column. If you need to, you can place a pole into the ground next to the fig tree and tie the branches to that. Also, place a thick layer of mulch on the ground over the roots. Then, wrap the fig tree in several layers of burlap. Keep in mind that with all layers (this and the others below), you will want to leave the top open to allow moisture and heat to escape. The next step in fig tree winter protection is to build a cage around the tree. Many people use chicken wire, but any material that will allow you to build a somewhat sturdy cage is fine. Fill this cage with straw or leaves. After this, wrap the whole winterized fig tree in plastic insulation or bubble wrap. The final step in winterizing a fig tree is to place a plastic bucket on top of the wrapped column. Remove the fig tree winter protection in the early spring when temperatures at night consistently stay above 20 degrees F. (-6 degrees C.).

Container Fig Tree Winter Storage

A much easier and less labor intensive method of fig tree care in winter is to keep the fig tree in a container and put it into dormancy in the winter. Winterizing a fig tree in a container starts with allowing the tree to lose its leaves. It will do this in the fall at the same time as other trees lose their leaves. While it is possible to bring your fig indoors to keep it alive all winter, it is not advisable to do so. The tree will want to go into dormancy and will look unhealthy all winter long. Once all of the leaves have fallen off the fig tree, place the tree in a cool, dry place. Often, people will place the tree in an attached garage, a basement or even closets indoors. Water your dormant fig tree once a month. Figs need very little water while dormant and overwatering during dormancy can actually kill the tree. In the early spring, you will see leaves begin to develop again. When the nighttime temperature stays consistently above 35 degrees F. (1 C.), you can place the fig tree back outside. Because the fig's leaves will start to grow indoors, placing it outdoors before freezing weather has passed will result in the new leaves getting burned by the frost.

Fig leaves turning yellow? It happens, but it doesn’t just happen for no reason. Those deeply lobed green leaves losing their luster and switching to a sickly yellow are the plant’s way of sending you an SOS. And basically, it’s the plant telling you that it is under stress. Sometimes the cause is obvious and immediate, like a recent environmental trigger. Other times, the issue is lurking beneath the soil line and harder to judge.

Luckily, the fig is surprisingly communicative. Because they are adapted to specific drainage and light conditions, they react quickly when those conditions shift. For example, when growing figs, they are sensitive to wet feet, and require excellent drainage to thrive. When the soil stays saturated, oxygen is pushed out, roots begin to die, and that lush green canopy begins to fade from vibrant emerald to cream.

It’s important to honor their native preferences as much as you can – and when you deviate, make adjustments quickly. Figs like the steady, deep moisture of a mountain slope, not the stagnant water of a bog. Of course, there can be other reasons for a sudden color chance. But fig tree leaves turning yellow doesn’t have to be a death sentence. The trick is figuring out what is stressing your plant out before the tree starts dropping leaves. Here’s your roadmap back to healthy, happy and fruitful figs.

1. Water Stress: Too Much or Too Little

Figs evolved in regions where the soil is often rocky and drains rapidly, while rain only shows up sporadically. To survive, their root systems grow wide and relatively shallow to catch every drop. In a home garden or a patio container, this shallow root system makes them touchy about both overwatering and prolonged drought.

Too much water is the most frequent killer of container-grown figs. When roots sit in saturated soil, they effectively suffocate. Once root rot sets in, the vascular system of the tree breaks down. The roots can no longer pull up nutrients, even though they are surrounded by water. In this case, leaves go yellow from starvation and lack of oxygen. You’ll notice the soil feels heavy, and the yellowing may be accompanied by a limp, mushy texture to the foliage.

Conversely, underwatering creates a different kind of yellowing. As the tree tries to conserve moisture, it will sacrifice older leaves. The soil will often shrink away from the edges of the pot, and the leaves will wilt and turn brittle before or during the yellowing process. Both create fig tree yellow leaves – but need opposite fixes. The best tool is your own hand. Stick a finger 2-3 (5-8 cm) inches into the soil. Container figs need water the moment it feels dry at that depth. For in-ground trees, check a bit deeper, at about six inches (15 cm). The goal is moist but never soggy.

If you suspect overwatering, stop immediately. Allow the soil to dry out before adding another drop. Ensure your pots have ample drainage holes, and empty saucers after watering so figs aren’t sitting in puddles. If your soil stays wet for more than 3 days, the media is likely too heavy. Consider repotting with a high-drainage mix containing perlite and pine bark. If you struggle to gauge moisture, a soil meter like the Yamron Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon removes the guesswork, and is especially useful for large planters where the bottom stays wetter than the top.

2. Nitrogen Deficiency

If you notice that the yellowing starts strictly on the older, lower leaves while the new growth at the tips remains green, you are likely looking at a nitrogen deficiency. Nitrogen moves around in plants. When supplies drop, the plant steals nitrogen from old leaves to feed new growth. Old leaves turn yellow and fall while new growth stays greenish. This results in a progressive yellowing from the bottom up.

While figs aren't as hungry as heavy feeders like tomatoes, they do require consistent nutrition to maintain their large leaf surface area. This is especially true for container figs, as the frequent watering required for pot-based growing tends to leach nutrients out of the bottom of the container over time. Nitrogen shortage shows up most in spring when trees are growing quickly but haven't been fed in a while.

To remedy a deficiency, use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer such as GardenWise 10-10-10 Slow-Release All Purpose Feed for Figs, available from Amazon. A 10-10-10 or 8-8-8 ratio is ideal for a steady nitrogen boost without overstimulating it. Apply when new growth starts in spring, then again midsummer. It is important to note that yellow leaves will not turn green again; they have been tapped out by the plant. The goal of fertilizing is to ensure the next flush is a healthy deep green.

Be wary of over-fertilizing, however. Excessive nitrogen can lead to burned leaves and leggy growth, and can inhibit fruit production, making the tree focus on leaves rather than figs. For a really long-term approach, try top-dressing with aged compost or well-rotted manure in the spring. This provides a gentle, multi-nutrient boost.

3. Transplant Shock

If you’ve moved your plant, whether from a pot to the ground, or to a larger container, then it is going to experience some level of stress – hence yellowing figs. This transplant shock can also cause leaf drop. This is often caused by root disturbance or a sudden change in microclimates.

Container figs are sensitive to temperature swings. If a tree has been living in a cozy, humid greenhouse and is suddenly placed in a breezy garden where nighttime temperatures dip below 50°F (10°C) when it is in active growth, then it will also react by yellowing its leaves. Temperature stress plus root disturbance hits figs pretty hard.

While you can’t always prevent shock entirely, you can minimize it. When transplanting, try to keep the root ball as intact as possible. Water deeply both before and immediately after the move to help settle the soil around the roots and eliminate air pockets. Using a product like Superthrive All-Purpose Liquid Food from Lowe’s during transplanting can provide a boost of vitamins and hormones that help the roots re-establish more quickly. A good mulch can also protect roots and minimize environmental shifts.

Be patient, and give your fig tree a few weeks to settle in. Avoid the temptation to fix the yellowing with heavy fertilizer straight off the bat, as this might stress the struggling roots even more. Stick to a consistent watering schedule (moist, not soggy) and wait for the tree to push out new green growth. Yellow leaves may drop, but healthy new leaves should follow once roots get reestablished.

4. Pest Problems

While figs are generally hardy, they are not invincible. Sap-sucking pests like scale, spider mites, and mealybugs can weaken a stressed tree to the point of discoloration. These pests act like tiny vampires and all feed on sap, draining the life-force from the leaves, which causes localized yellow spotting or a faded look.

Check the undersides of the leaves and the axils (the joints where the leaf stem meets the branch). Scale looks like small, waxy brown bumps that can be scraped off with a fingernail. Spider mites are nearly invisible, but you will notice fine, silken webbing between the lobes of the leaves and a stippled yellow appearance on the leaf surface. Where you see white fuzzy stuff, this could indicate mealybugs.

For most common fig pests, a biological approach is best. Use an organic spray like insecticidal soap or neem, such as Bonide Captain Jack’s Ready-to-Use Neem Oil from Amazon. It coats the pests and disrupts their life cycle without leaving harsh residues. Be sure to spray the undersides of the leaves thoroughly, as that is where mites and mealybugs love to hide, and repeat weekly for 3 weeks. For heavy scale infestations, use a soft brush to physically remove the insects before treating the area with neem oil or an insecticidal soap. Keep your tree well-hydrated, as spider mites target drought-stressed plants.

A few yellow leaves at the bottom of the tree in the heat of summer aren't a crisis. Figs drop some older leaves naturally. However, if half the canopy is turning pale, it is time to intervene. Left unchecked, chronic yellowing leads to stunted growth and a significant reduction in your fig harvest.

Luckily, figs are resilient and should bounce back once you address what is stressing them. Whether it’s a drainage issue or a nitrogen gap, take steps to rectify things now, and the tree should bounce back in a growing season. Focus on the new growth. If the new leaves are coming in strong, green and vibrant, you’ve successfully navigated the crisis.

Frequently Asked Questions

Fig Care Essentials

Figs aren't overly demanding, but if you want to protect them from the anxiety and stress of yellow leafing, this trio of products are essential for ongoing plant health and eventual fruiting. If you have very acidic soil, your fig might benefit from a dusting of garden lime, such as Espoma Organic Garden Lime from Lowe’s. Figs prefer a slightly alkaline to neutral pH (6-7.5), which reflects native growing conditions, to process nutrients efficiently. Check soil pH before adding amendments.

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Figs have been around for a long time. In fact, archeologists have found evidence that humans were cultivating them as early as 5,000 BCE. These resilient Mediterranean natives are surprisingly adaptable – while they thrive in warm climates, certain cold-tolerant varieties like the Chicago Hardy can survive temperatures as low as 10°F (-12°C).

A healthy fig tree will produce high-quality fruit for about 15 years. Some varieties, like the fiddle leaf fig, have been known to live for decades. Whether your tree is losing its vigor or you just want more figs in your life, you're probably interested in fig propagation. Propagating by rooting cuttings is an easy, cost-effective way to expand your harvest or rejuvenate your garden. Let's see how exactly you do it.

Methods for Propagating Figs

There are three reliable ways to grow a new fig tree from an existing one. The best method for you depends primarily on the warmth of your local climate, and whether you want your trees to grow indoors or out.

1. Ground Layering

Layering is the most "hands-off" method for outdoor propagation. It's not feasible for everyone, though, because it requires a mild climate where the tree can survive outdoors through the winter.

1. Select a branch: Find a low-growing, flexible branch that can easily reach the ground.
2. Bury a section: Dig a shallow trench in the soil and bury a portion of the branch in it, leaving 6 to 8 inches (15–20 cm) of the tip exposed above ground.
3. Wait for roots: Over the course of a growing season, the buried section will develop its own root system.
4. Separate: Once the roots are established, sever the branch from the parent tree and transplant the new sapling. It's that easy!

While simple, this method can make mowing or weeding around the tree noticeably tougher. You don't want to mow down your future sapling!

2. Rooting Cuttings Outdoors

This is the most common method for gardeners in temperate climates. It's best done in late winter or early spring, just after the danger of frost has passed but before the tree begins its spring growth.

1. Take your cuttings: Select two-to-three-year-old wood about ½ to ¾ inches (1.5-2 cm) thick – roughly the diameter of your pinky finger. Cuttings should be 8 to 12 inches (20-30 cm) long.
2. Identify the ends: It's important to plant your cutting right-side up. Always cut the bottom end (the one closer to the trunk) flat, and the top end on a slant to avoid confusion.
3. Prepare the wood: Dip the flat bottom end of the cutting in rooting hormone to encourage growth.
4. Plant: Dig a hole 6 inches (15 cm) deep. Plant cutting flat-end-down, spacing each cutting about a foot apart.
5. Care: Water well but avoid soaking the soil, which can cause the wood to rot. In a single year, these cuttings can grow up to 4 feet (1.2 m) tall! They'll be ready to move to their permanent location by the following dormant season.

3. Rooting Cuttings Indoors

If your winter/spring weather is cold, of if you grow your fig as a houseplant, you can start your cuttings indoors.

1. Prepare the cuttings: Repeat steps 1-3 from the outdoor method above.
2. Prepare a pot: Line a 6-inch (15 cm) pot with newspaper and add 2 inches (5 cm) of well-draining potting soil or sand.
3. Set the cuttings: Place up to four cuttings upright in the pot and fill the remaining space with soil.
4. Create a "greenhouse": Water thoroughly and place a clear 2-liter plastic bottle (with the bottom cut off) over the cuttings to trap humidity.
5. Light and heat: Keep the pot in a warm, bright area, but avoid direct, scorching sunlight. Only water if the soil feels very dry.
6. Acclimate: Remove the plastic bottle about a week after you see the first signs of new green growth.

Once the cuttings show vigorous growth and the outdoor weather has stabilized, transplant them into larger containers or directly into your garden. Keep the young trees consistently moist throughout their first summer to help them establish a strong root system.

Fig Propagation Essentials

A common question that gardeners with fig trees have is, “How long does it take a fig to ripen on the tree?” The answer to this question is not straightforward. Under ideal conditions, figs can ripen in as little as two months, but most figs do not grow in ideal conditions. If your fig fruit is staying green, there are many reasons why your figs are not getting ripe. Let's look at the reasons why figs don't ripen and how to ripen figs a little faster.

Reasons Why Figs Won't Get Ripe

The long and short of why a fig tree is taking a long time to ripen its fruit or the figs won't get ripe at all is stress. Fig trees are very susceptible to stress and when under stress, they will slow down or even stop ripening their fruit. The most common stress responsible for when figs don't ripen is lack of water, especially in high heat conditions. Fig trees in containers are especially prone to this. If a fig tree does not have enough water, the figs won't get ripe because the tree is trying to preserve itself and its seeds. If a fig tree continues to get too little water, it will abort its fruit, which means your fig fruit will fall off the tree while it is still green. Another possible reason why your figs are not getting ripe is a lack of nutrients. Fruiting is hard work for a tree. It needs extra nutrients to be able to support both itself and its fruit. If the tree has too little nutrients, the figs don't ripen as fast and may even stop ripening. If your figs are not getting ripe, pests and disease can also be the problem. While a fig tree is under attack from a pest or disease, it must divert its energy from ripening its fruit to protecting itself. The fig fruit will stay green longer if the fig tree is battling pests and disease.

How to Ripen Figs Faster

The best way in how to ripen figs faster is to remove as many stress points from the tree as possible. To avoid figs that won't get ripe, make sure that the tree has plenty of water, especially in high heat. Another way to prevent figs that don't ripen is to regularly fertilize your fig tree. Keep a sharp eye out for pests and disease as well, and treat these as soon as you spot them. While there is no set answer to how long does it take a fig to ripen on the tree, you can take steps to make sure your figs ripen as fast as possible.

Fig trees have been part of the North American landscape since the 1500s when Spanish missionaries brought the fruit to Florida. Later, missionaries brought the fruit to what is now California, but initial attempts at cultivation were failures. The fig wasp, so necessary to fertilization, was not indigenous to the area. Self-fertilizing cultivars fixed the problem. Today, fig trees can be found throughout the Southern United States and beyond. The fig's natural habitat is a warm, dry, Mediterranean-type climate and under those conditions, the fig is relatively pest free. However, under more humid conditions and heavier rainfall, figs are more prone to infestation by insects and disease. The most common fig disease, rust, occurs under these conditions.

Identifying Fig Rust on Fruit Trees

Humid air or excessive rain will encourage this fig's disease. Rust is a fungal growth that is rarely found in dry climates. The first signs of fig rust on fruit trees are tiny yellow spots on the underside of leaves. The rust on fig leaves' underside then spreads to the upper portion, and the spots become reddish brown. Home gardeners often miss early signs of the fig's disease. Rust spots are only 0.2 to 0.4 inches (0.5 to 1 cm.) across and are easily missed until the infection is severe. As the fig rust progresses, fig leaves will yellow and fall to the ground. Since rust on fig leaves is usually found in late summer or early fall, the new and tender replacement growth will be at risk for frost damage, which may, in turn, foster winter die back of branches. Though fruit is unaffected by the fungus, rust on fig leaves can encourage premature ripening of the fruit.

How to Prevent Fig Rust

The simplest way to prevent fig rust is to water only the ground under your figs. Rust fungus seeks free moisture on the leaves. Water in the morning so the sun has a chance to dry the foliage. Careful pruning of fig trees can also help by improving air circulation through the branches, allowing the evaporation of excess water from the leaves of the figs. Rust will over winter in fallen leaves and debris, so fall cleanup is essential to prevent fig rust. Once you find rust on figs, treatment is difficult as there are very few fungicides that are registered for use on figs. Rust seems to respond best to fungicides containing copper sulfate and lime. Bare trees should be sprayed during the dormant season followed by repeated treatments every two to three weeks. By the time you detect rust on figs, treatment is usually unsuccessful for the current season, but beginning a spray regimen can help prevent recurrence. While rust on fig leaves and fruit can be a disappointment to home gardeners, it isn't fatal. Proper cleanup and good air circulation will go a long way to keep the disease at bay and a spray treatment for previously infected trees can stop its recurrence. Note: Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and more environmentally friendly.

Fig trees are an excellent fruit tree to grow in your garden, but when your fig tree does not produce figs, it can be frustrating. There are many reasons for a fig tree not fruiting. Understanding the reasons for a fig tree not producing fruit can make this a little less frustrating.

Reasons for a Fig Tree Not Producing Fruit

First, in this article we will be covering information on why a fig tree will not fruit. Read our article on fig trees dropping fruit if you are looking for that information. When a fig tree is not fruiting, there are a few reasons that this could be happening. The age of the tree, too much nitrogen and water are the three main reasons for a fig tree not producing fruit.

Fig Tree Not Fruiting Because of Age

The most common reason for a fig tree not producing fruit is simply its age. Trees, like animals, need to reach a certain maturity before they can produce offspring. Fruit is how a fig tree creates seeds. If the fig tree is not old enough to produce seeds, it will also not produce fruit. Typically, a fig tree will not fruit until it reaches two years old, but it can take some trees as long as six years to reach the right maturity. There is nothing you can do to speed up the rate a tree matures at. Time and patience are the only fixes for this.

Fig Tree Not Producing Fruit Because of Too Much Nitrogen

Another common reason that a fig tree is not producing figs is because of too much nitrogen. This commonly happens when you are using a fertilizer that is too high in nitrogen. Nitrogen causes the plant to have lush growth in leaves and branches, but very little, if any, fruit. If you suspect that your fig tree may not be growing figs because of too much nitrogen, start using a lower nitrogen fertilizer or add some phosphorus to the soil to counter the nitrogen.

Fig Tree Will Not Fruit Because of Watering Conditions

If a fig tree is suffering from water stress from either too little or too much water, this can cause it to stop producing figs or never start producing, especially if it is a younger tree. Water stress will send the tree into a survival mode and the fig tree will simply not have the energy needed to invest in making fruit. If your fig tree is getting too little moisture, increase the water. Remember, fig trees in pots will need daily watering when the temperatures rise above 65 degrees F. (18 C.) and twice daily watering when the temps go above 80 degrees F. (26 C.). If your fig tree is getting too much water, either cut back your watering or improve the drainage in the area or in the pot. Don't let fig trees grow in standing water. These are the most common reasons that fig trees will not make fig fruit. There are many other less common reasons that are mostly tied to the nutrients in the soil. If you feel that the above reasons are not what is affecting your fig tree, have the soil tested and amend according to the results of this test.

One of the more common fig tree problems is fig tree fruit drop. This problem is especially severe with figs that are grown in containers but can also affect fig trees grown in the ground. When fig fruit falls off the tree it can be frustrating, but knowing why your fig tree won't produce fruit and how to correct the problem will make dealing with this easier.

Causes of and Fixes for Fig Tree Fruit Drop

There are many reasons fig trees start dropping figs. Below are the most common reasons for this fig tree problem.

Lack of Water Causes Dropping Figs

Drought or inconsistent watering is the most common reason that fig fruit falls off the tree. This is also the reason that this fig tree problem commonly affects fig trees in containers. To correct this, make sure that your fig is receiving enough water. If it's in the ground, the tree should receive at least 2 inches (5 cm.) of water a week, either through rainfall or watering. If you are manually watering to prevent dropping figs, remember that a fig tree's roots can reach out several feet (about a meter) away from the trunk, so make sure that you are watering the entire root system, not just the at the trunk. If the fig tree is in a container, make sure to water daily in warm weather and twice daily in hot weather to prevent fig tree fruit drop.

Lack of Pollination Causes Fig Tree Fruit Drop

Another reason for when a fig tree won't produce fruit or the fruit falls off is lack of pollination. Typically, if there is a lack of pollination, the fig fruit will fall off while it is still very small, as the tree has no reason to grow them larger since they will not produce seeds without proper pollination. Again, this is a problem that occurs most commonly in container grown trees that may be isolated from pollinating insects. To correct this fig tree problem, be sure to place your fig tree in a place where wasps, bees, and other pollinating insects can get to it. If you suspect that lack of pollination is causing fig fruit falling off in an outdoor tree, pesticides may be the culprit. Since many pesticides kill all insects, beneficial or not, make sure not to use pesticides so that you do not inadvertently kill the pollinating insects for the fig tree.

Disease Causes Dropping Figs

Fig tree diseases such as fig mosaic, leaf spot, and pink limb blight may cause dropping figs as well. Making sure that the tree receives proper watering, fertilizing, and general care will help keep the tree healthy and will help prevent disease and the fig drop that occurs with these diseases.

Weather Causes Fig Tree Fruit Drop

Rapid temperature changes to either very hot or cool can cause fig fruit to fall off the trees. Make sure to monitor your local weather reports and provide adequate protection for a fig tree that may have to go through a rapid temperature change.

One of the most lavish fruits on the planet, figs are a pleasure to grow. Figs (Ficus carica) are members of the mulberry family and are indigenous to Asiatic Turkey, northern India, and warm Mediterranean climates, where they thrive in full sun. During a recent warm summer in Provence, we plucked figs from a tree every day for a delicious and healthy no-fuss dessert. Figs are fun and fairly easy to grow, but there are a few important things to learn about fig tree care.

How to Grow Figs in the Garden

Buy your plants from a reputable nursery to avoid nematode problems with your figs. Another way to obtain fig trees is to plant root suckers from other trees or obtain divisions or cuttings from mature plants. Plant new fig trees outside when they’re dormant. The best times are late fall or early spring. While some types will do well in cooler temperatures, most fig tree varieties will be happiest growing in USDA zones 8 through 10. If you live in a cooler zone, you can plant figs in half-barrels or moveable containers so they can be shrouded and protected from freezing in winter. It’s essential to keep them safe from cold wind and frosty conditions, which means that in many zones you’ll need to make them portable. It’s easier to protect a fig from the cold if it’s trained as a shrub or bush. Conversely, while it’s a warm-weather fruit, the edible fig needs around a hundred hours of chilly weather to grow and set fruit. Set out your dormant, bare-rooted fig trees in late fall to early spring. In addition to full sunlight, fig trees appreciate lots of room. If you’re planting more than one tree, make sure they have 15 to 20 feet (5-6 m.) between them. If you want to train the trees to be bushy and lower growing, plant them with 10 feet (3 m.) between them. Your soil should be loamy, fertile, and well-drained with a pH balance of around 6.0 to 6.5. Clay-heavy soil can prove to be a death sentence for your tree, so be sure to dig in plenty of organic material, like compost or well-rotted manure before you plant.

Fig Tree Maintenance

Newly planted fig trees should be pruned back by about a half. This may seem distressing, but it will give the young tree the ability to concentrate on establishing strong roots. Your fig probably won’t bear fruit until the second or third year, so this early pruning provides a strong head start. After the tree is established, it should be pruned in late winter each year, just before it comes out of dormancy. Feed your fig tree with one pound (0.5 kg.) for each year of the tree’s age or per each foot (30.5 cm.) of growth using a balanced fertilizer.

Continued Fig Tree Care

The roots of a fig tree tend to grow close to the surface of the soil. Regular watering during the growing season is imperative. Mulching with straw or grass clippings can help keep the roots moist. Dry roots can lead to premature fruit drop. While fig trees don’t have many natural enemies, they can develop some problems. The most common issue for fig trees may be root-knot nematodes. Be sure when purchasing a new fig tree that it doesn’t already have this problem by examining the roots before transplanting it into the ground or container. Although too much water can drown a fig tree’s shallow growing roots, regular watering and mulching can keep the tree healthy. Other less frequent potential diseases include:

• Fig Rust
• Fig Souring
• Fig Mosaic
• Leaf Spot
• Pink Limb Blight
• Cotton Root Rot

Figs are ready to harvest and eat when the fruit has softened. They won’t ripen once they’re picked from the tree and unripe figs aren’t very tasty. Ripe figs, however, are exceptionally sweet and delicious.

You can't have a proper Newton without them, but figs in the garden aren't for the faint of heart. As rewarding as they are frustrating, figs are commonly troubled by several fungal diseases, as well as the odd bacteria or virus. Knowing how to recognize fig tree diseases can help keep you one step ahead of garden disaster. Let's learn more about some of the most common fig issues affecting these fruit trees.

Major Fungal Diseases of Fig Trees

Of the pathogens that cause problems with fig trees, fungi take the cake. Fig disease problems caused by fungi can affect nearly any part of the plant, including fruits, leaves, and internal tissues. There is little that can be done once some fungal infections are in full force, so always practice good sanitation and beware of how much you're watering your fig to reduce favorable conditions for fungal germination.

• Fig Rust - This fungus causes leaves to turn yellow-brown and drop in late summer or early fall. When the leaves are examined, many rust colored spots are visible on the underside of the leaf. Although not generally fatal, perennial attacks from fig rust can weaken your plant. Neem oil may destroy an early rust infestation, but removing fallen debris will often prevent fig rust from taking root.
• Leaf Blight - Pellicularia kolerga (leaf blight) is another fungus that attacks leaves, though it causes spots that start yellow and appear water-soaked. As the disease progresses, water-soaked areas spread and dry out, leaving a papery surface behind. Thin holes may tear out of affected leaves, or the entire leaf may brown and die, with a web-like mat of fungal bodies clinging to the underside. Sanitation is the only control-- remove these leaves as infection becomes apparent and keep infected debris off the ground.
• Pink Blight - Certainly the most colorful of the common fig issues, pink blight often affects the interior of overgrown figs, appearing as a pink to white, velvety coating on sickly or dead branches. The fungus can spread from these dying tissues into healthy ones, destroying whole trees if left untreated. Cut out diseased tissues and destroy them immediately and open the inside of your fig by thinning out up to a third of the smaller growth, creating plenty of space for air circulation.

Other Diseases of Fig Trees

Although fungal pathogens are by far the most prevalent fig tree diseases, other pathogens have their parts to play. Difficult-to-manage problems like fig mosaic, fruit souring, and root knot nematodes can be heartbreaking for a fig-keeper to encounter.

• Fig Mosaic - The virus responsible for fig mosaic is thought to be vectored by the eriophyid mite Aceria fici and multiplied through cuttings. Yellow spots appear on leaves of infected trees, though they may not be on every leaf or evenly distributed. As the season continues, these spots develop rust colored bands. Fruits may be spotted, stunted, or drop prematurely. Unfortunately, there's no cure for fig mosaic once your plant is symptomatic-- it should be destroyed to prevent further spread.
• Fruit Souring - A variety of yeasts cause figs to sour while on the tree, believed to be introduced by vinegar flies or dried fruit beetles. As figs begin to ripen, they may ooze or form bubbles and smell like fermentation. Insect control may prevent infection, but unless you plant fig varieties with closed ostioles, such as Celeste, Texas Everbearing, or Alma, your fruit will be at risk each season.
• Root Knot Nematodes - These very common, invisible roundworms cause damage that can be difficult to diagnose, often mimicking other root diseases. Trees infected with root knot nematodes show a gradual decline, have chronically poor health, and aren't as vigorous when developing leaves and fruits. Digging a few roots will reveal swollen galls that ultimately block the root system, causing the death of the fig. Root knot nematodes are difficult or impossible to kill, since they protect themselves with the plant's own tissues.

Keeping a close eye on your fig tree will prevent fig disease problems in the future.