November often feels like the end of the growing season in many backyards. Annual and perennial borders have likely died back for the year, and deciduous trees and shrubs stand have lost their leaves. Yet while the air is getting fresher, you can still work a little magic in your cooling soil. Because as it turns out, this month is a prime time for sowing some classic hardy flower seeds.

Many pretty cottage garden favorites, native prairie wildflowers, and pollinator staples actually need a winter chill to thrive. In nature, wild flower seeds drop from seed heads in late fall, settle into the cool earth, and take part in a natural winter cycle known as cold stratification. Exposure to freezing and thawing breaks down the tough seed jackets of key annual and perennial flower types, prompting the embryo to awaken as soon as spring conditions become favorable.

Sowing these flower seeds in November gives them a big head start. Seeds planted now establish strong roots. This means healthier conditions in spring, with sturdier stems, superior drought resistance, and prolific displays that can bloom a month ahead of spring-sown counterparts. By taking advantage of these planting conditions now, you lay the groundwork for an effortless explosion of color next season.

Sow These Flower Seeds in November

Keep in mind your USDA hardiness zone, your local climate, and weather conditions before deciding on specific plants and a sowing strategy. Successfully sowing flowers in November comes down to matching your plant variety with the right late-season sowing technique. There are a few primary approaches you can try with these flowers, depending on your region and weather. In mild winter climates (zones 7-10), you can try fall sowing (directly outdoors) so seeds germinate before winter, overwintering as frost-hardy rosettes that bloom in April.

In colder northern climates (zones 3-6), there is also dormant sowing. This is where seeds are sown directly into garden beds once the ground is cold enough to prevent immediate germination. Soil temperatures consistently below 45°F (7°C) allow seeds to sit dormant until early spring. For native perennial flowers or regions with erratic thaws, the best approach is winter sowing. This means sowing in outdoor containers and placing in a protected area, like an unheated cold frame, to shield seeds from rodents and heavy downpours while still providing natural chilling.

Before sowing, ground preparation is vital. Check soil temperatures before you start sowing with a good soil probe. Budget-friendly Raintrip 4-in-1 Soil Meter, available from Amazon gives a reliable read on current moisture and temperature levels. Then clear away thick, suffocating leaves, remove weeds, and lightly rake the top inch (2.5cm) of soil into a fine, crumbly tilth. Pay attention to seed packet instructions regarding sowing depth, as this can have a big effect on germination. Some larger seeds may require burying an inch deep, while fine wildflower seeds need light to germinate and need to be surface-sown with just a whisper of sand or light compost.

Water the seedbed gently with a fine mist to settle the soil without dislodging the seeds, but don’t let the soil get waterlogged. Mark each row clearly with durable weatherproof tags, and cover vulnerable beds with breathable floating row covers, mesh, or clean straw to deter birds. Whether sowing directly in the soil or indoors, these gorgeous flowering picks are all good to go this month…

1. Sweet Peas

Sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) are the quintessential cottage border bloomers. They are celebrated for their intoxicating scents and ruffled hues, which can cascade across trellises from late spring through early summer. These vintage darlings thrive in cool weather. Sowing sweet peas in November allows the seeds to develop deep roots while temperatures are low. This leads to more prolific flowering displays, with longer, sturdier stems. If you fancy a floriferous blend of lavender, violet and maroon blooms, buy Sweet Pea Burgundy Mix Sweet Peas from Eden Brothers.

In milder climates (zones 7-10), you can direct-sow sweet peas along sunny, well-draining trellises. In colder zones (3–6), sow seeds indoors in deep root-trainer tubes or biodegradable pots, and keep in an unheated greenhouse, sheltered porch, or cold frame. Sweet pea seeds have hard shells, so nick these with a nail file (or soak in room-temperature water for 12 hours prior to planting) to speed up moisture absorption. Plant seeds an inch (2.5cm) deep in rich, organic-rich soil, and pinch the central tips once seedlings develop 3 sets of true leaves for bushier plants.

2. California Poppies

With their luminous, silky petals, California poppies (Eschscholzia californica) bring effortless cheer to borders, gravel gardens, and sunny slopes. These tough-as-nails wildflowers thrive in sandy or rocky soils, making them ideal for challenging areas where other ornamentals struggle. However, because they have brittle taproots that resent disturbance, they should be direct-sown where they are intended to bloom. Buy Marde Ross & Co California Dreaming California Poppy Seed Mix from Amazon for a near-neon flush of tangerine, melon and magenta blooms.

You can sow seeds now in regions with milder winters (zones 7-10). In these areas, fall rains will trigger late-fall germination, establishing fern-like foliage that bursts into bloom by April. To sow California poppies, scatter them over the soil in an area that drains well and has full sun. Lightly rake the seeds into the soil so they are barely covered, as poppy seeds require light to germinate. If you have colder or very wet winters, it’s best to wait until spring to sow these seeds.

3. Larkspur

Offering the vertical grandeur of delphiniums without the fussy growing requirements, annual larkspur (Consolida ajacis) produces epic flowering spires in shades of royal purple, lavender, rose, and white. This cottage garden classic is a cool-season annual that is ideal for November sowing. In fact, waiting until spring often results in poor, erratic germination, as seeds need a period of stratification to break dormancy. For a shock of saturated purple-blue spires, buy QIS Dark Blue Larkspur Seeds from Eden Brothers.

Direct-sow in a rich, sunny, well-drained bed. Cover very lightly with an eighth of an inch of fine compost or sand. Winter rain and freezing nights should satisfy the seed's chilling requirements, triggering early emergence in spring. Fall-sown larkspur often blooms up to a month earlier than spring-sown seeds, beating the summer heatwaves that can cause these cool-season annuals to fade. If your winters are very cold, try winter sowing in containers.

4. Bachelor’s Buttons

Also known as cornflowers, bachelor’s buttons (Centaurea cyanus) are cherished vintage annuals. Their blue ruffled blooms erupt in late spring and summer to create a dazzling contrast with cottage perennials and ornamental grasses (though you can get varieties in shades of pink, purple and white). Also cold tolerant, they are naturally adapted to late-season sowing. Sowing in November helps it to grow strong roots that can withstand hotter summer days far longer than spring-started plants.

Sow in a bright, sunny border with average to poor, well-draining garden soil. Sow at roughly a quarter-inch (0.6cm) deep, firming the soil gently. For the best results, ensure the area with seeds doesn’t erode or get waterlogged over winter. In mild winter regions, seeds will sprout within a few weeks; in northern climates, they will sleep until early March, flowering from late spring all the way to July. Buy SVI Store’s Bachelor Button Mix Seeds from Amazon for a lively mixture of floral heirloom tones.

5. Black-Eyed Susans

Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta) are prairie icons that light up borders from early summer well into fall. With their sunny yellow petals and chocolate-brown cones, these pollinator-friendly perennials and biennials are often bought as transplants. Hardy in zones 3-9, they are super tough. However, their seeds possess dormancy inhibitors that can lead to patchy germination in spring soil. November sowing solves this problem naturally. By scattering now, you allow the rhythm of winter rains, snow cover, and sub-freezing nights to break dormancy smoothly.

Clear away heavy mulch and scatter seeds thinly over the surface. They require light to germinate, so press them into the soil without burying them. While fall-sown plants spend their first spring developing roots and crowns, many will reward you with late-summer blooms in the first year. Buy Harris Seeds’ Rudbeckia Goldilocks Seeds from Walmart for a ruffled twist on the dazzling classic. Just keep in mind that many varieties benefit from cold exposure, but not all, so know your type before you sow.

6. Columbines

With their delicate, two-toned blooms and graceful spurs, columbines (Aquilegia spp.) bring woodland romance and grace to borders, cottage beds, and rockeries. Native across North America and Europe, Aquilegia species are hardy down to zone 3. Seeds require 4-6 weeks of cold, damp stratification, making November sowing the easiest, most reliable way to propagate them. Buy Blue Star Columbine Seeds from Eden Brothers for a vivid bounty of iconic violet-blue and white blooms.

Select a site that receives gentle morning sun and dappled afternoon shade with rich, well-draining soil. Some varieties require sunlight to trigger germination, so check the seed packet. Scatter seeds onto the soil surface and press lightly into the earth, but don’t cover with soil. If you live in an area with winter gales or heavy rains, you can winter-sow columbines into ventilated plastic jugs in a shaded outdoor spot. Seedlings will emerge in spring, providing pretty nectar for returning hummingbirds.

7. Purple Coneflowers

Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) is a perennial staple in the sustainable, pollinator-friendly yard. Featuring daisy-like blooms and spiky cones, echinacea feeds native bees and butterflies in summer, while offering seed cones for goldfinches in fall. Seeds have evolved to weather harsh winters before germinating, making November a great time for sowing. Buy Purple Coneflower Heirloom Seeds by the Kviter Store from Amazon for a generous supply of purple drifts.

Broadcast seeds in a sunny spot with well-drained, average soil. Echinacea seeds need minimal light filtering through to sprout, so rake them into the earth no more than an eighth of an inch deep, firming the soil. Winter's freeze-thaw cycles settle the seeds, softening their husks so that strong roots push down early in spring. While coneflowers focus heavily on root establishment in the first year, November-sown echinacea tend to bloom reliably by the second season.

Your gardening season doesn’t have to be over in November. Taking a little time this month to start off some pretty cottage garden and pollinator favorites is such a rewarding investment in future backyard bloomers. By partnering with winter’s cold cycles rather than fighting them, you give these key annuals and perennials a real head start on early spring beauty. Using seeds is also a cost-effective way to get more flowers. If some don’t germinate or establish, you haven’t lost a lot of money. So grab a few seed packets, prep your beds, and get planting. It’s time to start looking forward to an effortless run of blooms well ahead of the neighbors.

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If you haven’t got around to planting spring-flowering bulbs yet, don’t panic because you can plant all these showstoppers in November. From tiny pastel-hued muscari to alliums the size of softballs, many-petalled tulips to intensely scented hyacinths, the range of bulbs to plant in November is just as exciting as those that need planting in September or October, so don’t feel you’re missing out for a second if you're slow off the starting block this fall.

Growing blooms from bulbs couldn’t be easier, because fall and winter rain will provide all the moisture they need. The secret to getting great results when planting bulbs in November is to sit them on a shallow layer of grit to improve drainage, so creating a drier environment to stop bulb bases rotting in wet winter soil. You could use horticultural grit but poultry grit does exactly the same job and costs a lot less. Just make sure you use a product that’s 100% crushed rock like CZ Grain Chicken Grit, available from Walmart, rather than the type made from oyster shells.

My bulb recommendations will brighten up your garden from February all the way into May and beyond, and return year after year. And I’ve skipped right past the common-or-garden varieties to bring you flowers in standout shades and shapes to create a colorful stir in your yard. Grow these beautiful bulbs in the ground, in raised beds or in pots – but do just grow them! Which of these striking bulbs to plant in late fall will skyrocket your spring garden next year?

1. Tulips

November is the very best month to plant tulips. Waiting until temperatures have lowered reduces the risk of fungal disease tulip fire, and cooler temperatures mean bulbs are less likely to rot. Plant tulips in full sun, burying them at a depth that's three times the height of the bulb. Tulips need excellent drainage so dropping a ½-inch layer of grit into the planting holes first is a smart move. If you’re planting tulips in containers then mix a good handful of grit into the potting soil, too.

If it’s a while since you shopped for these spring flowers, you’ll soon find that tulips don’t have to look like tulips anymore! All these show-off varieties are fully hardy in zones 3-8, blooming in April and May when you can expect lots of curious neighbors asking what they are.

2. Crocus

Spring-flowering crocus are incredibly hardy so can be planted in November but pick wisely for the best results. Botanical crocus flower early in January or February so have little time to grow roots from a November planting. Crocus vernus, however, blooms February to April, and their bigger bulb-like corms are tougher and store more energy.

While botanical crocus have tiny blooms, the goblet-shaped flowers of Crocus vernus grow to a far more noticeable 5 inches high. And, whether you want to welcome spring into your garden with pristine white petals or drifts of carnival color, there’s a variety to suit. Plant Crocus vernus at a depth that’s equal to three times the corm’s height, in sun or partial shade in zones 4-8, adding ¼ inch of grit to the bottom of each hole, and the bulbs will quickly naturalize. A favorite spot for these crocus is under deciduous trees where bare branches give them the early spring sunshine they need to flower well.

3. Dutch Iris

These little lovelies only grow 18-24 inches tall but they really punch above their height with orchid-like flowers in saturated colors, and florists prize them highly. Dutch iris are better planted in November as any earlier and the bulbs can start sending up their green shoots prematurely, when the tender growth is quickly knobbled by cold weather.

Because these spectacular flowers sit atop a single slender stem, Dutch iris bulbs look better planted in groups, which makes them easier to bury, too. Dig a hole around 6 inches deep in full sun, mix a handful of grit into the soil, and add the bulbs 3 inches apart. In containers, you can pack them more closely at 2 inches apart.

Iris x hollandica bulbs are hardy in zones 5-9, but in zone 5 they benefit from a mulch of shredded leaves thrown over the top to keep them cozy. You can also plant these bulbs in zones 3 and 4 in pots in an unheated greenhouse, ready to move outside when the worst of the winter is over. Dutch iris is a little later to flower than most spring bulbs from May into June, providing a seamless transition into summer.

4. Alliums

These ornamental onions are very relaxed when it comes to when they’re planted and, although most folk get their alliums into the ground in October, as long as the soil isn’t frozen solid, they’ll flourish from a November planting. There are dozens of allium varieties with flowers ranging from small pom poms to huge spheres, lasting for up to a month then drying into structural seedheads.

As the size of the bulbs ranges as much as the blooms, use the usual rule of thumb to plant bulbs at a depth equivalent to three times their height. All alliums need full sun, where they’ll thrive in zones 4-9, and be sure to line holes with a layer of grit. While there are alliums that flower in summer, all my recommendations are late spring varieties that bloom from April into June.

5. Hyacinths

There’s one big reason why you should add hyacinths to your garden, and that’s their incredible scent. As the flowerbuds open, their perfume is fresh, reminiscent of cut grass. In full bloom, an intense and intoxicating floral fragrance takes over, warm with vanilla and spicy with clove. Then as the flowers fade, the aroma deepens and becomes more musky. The scent profile can differ by color, too, with purples and blues typically boasting the strongest perfume, while whites and pinks smell a little sweeter, and yellows and oranges spicier.

Emerging in late February, hyacinths add an extra dimension to crisp, cold spring days when their scent hangs in the air. Hardy in zones 4-8, hyacinths prefer to be planted once soil temperatures have dropped, so the bulbs remain dormant but still get the deep chill they need to flower. Choose a sunny spot and plant bulbs at a depth of three times their height, dropping a ½ inch layer of grit into the hole to prevent them rotting. Hyacinths also thrive in a pot, where you can pack bulbs so they’re almost-but-not touching for a fabulous fragrance cloud on a patio or front porch.

Don’t reach for the standard pink, white and blue colors as there are now all sorts of tempting hyacinth tones to choose from.

6. Grape Hyacinths

Muscari are such tough cookies, they’re wholly unphased by a late-fall planting just as long as the ground isn’t frozen or waterlogged. And don’t fret if you’ve had issues with grape hyacinths spreading a little too enthusiastically before. While the classic blue Muscari armeniacum does indeed take over, newer cultivars have been bred to focus their energy on growing densely-packed blooms rather than invading borders so spread far more gently.

‘Delft Blue’ does naturalize but gently, and you easily prevent it from travelling far by snipping off faded flower spikes before they set seed. ‘Fantasy Creation’ has sterile flowers so only spreads very slowly through underground division. And Muscari latifolium has a clumping habit so will stay exactly where you put it. All are suitable for zones 4-8 and flower March or April into May.

Helpful Bulb Planting Tools

The more bulbs you buy, the cheaper they get, so if you end up filling your borders with beautiful spring flowers, speed the planting with a labor-saving tool.

We all dream of a perennial that keeps the garden looking good long after summer has packed its bags, don't we? You know, the kind that keeps producing beautiful flowers just when you think the growing season has nothing left to give.

It's fair enough; as temperatures dip and fall settles in, even the prettiest garden can start looking a little lackluster. The summer blooms start fading, the flower beds lose their sparkle, and you're probably wondering whether it's time to call it a year.

Thankfully, there's one unusual perennial that can bring a welcome splash of late-season color just when you need it most... and, despite its rather unflattering name, it looks seriously beautiful while doing it.

The Late-Season Perennial Everyone Should Know About

The toad lily (Tricyrtis), a shade-loving perennial with intricate, orchid-like flowers covered in colorful spots. Blooming in late summer and fall, it offers a surprisingly exotic display at a time when many other plants are winding down.

And despite its rather unflattering name, this little-known garden gem has plenty going for it. With delicate blooms that look more at home in a tropical greenhouse than a shady backyard, the toad lily is the sort of plant that makes you stop, take a closer look, and wonder why you aren't growing it already.

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Let's get one thing straight: the toad lily isn't actually an orchid, no matter how much it might look like one. Rather, as the name suggests, it's a member of the lily family, and its botanical name is Tricyrtis.

Depending on the species or variety, the blooms may feature white or pale lavender petals, deep purple freckles, and contrasting yellow or purple centers. Some have a star-shaped appearance, while others look more like tiny funnels. Either way, though, their delicate details are best appreciated up close, rather than from the other side of the yard, as they look almost as though someone has taken a miniature paintbrush to every flower.

In other words, this isn't just another pretty perennial that relies on enormous flowers to make an impression; it's all about the details. And those details are exactly what make it such a charming addition to a shady garden.

Spring and summer get most of the attention when it comes to flowering perennials. By the time fall rolls around, many gardeners are left with attractive foliage, fading blooms, and a growing collection of plants preparing for winter.

The toad lily, however, usually begins flowering in late summer or early fall, with some continuing into October and, under favorable conditions, even November. (The exact timing depends on the variety, local climate, and when the first hard frost arrives in your USDA Planting Zone).

If you're looking for a plant that helps bridge the gap between summer color and the quieter months of winter, then, this is one of those flowers you've never heard of that's worth considering, especially as many varieties prefer partial to full shade, making them particularly useful beneath trees, along woodland borders, or in those awkward shade garden corners where sun-loving flowers struggle.

Shop The Best Fall Perennials:

Despite their exotic appearance, toad lilies aren't especially demanding when planted in the right conditions. Pop yours somewhere it won't get too much direct sun, as this can scorch the foliage (particularly if the soil dries out), and keep the soil consistently moist.

That being said, make sure excess water can drain away because, while moist soil is good; persistently waterlogged roots are another matter. Many toad lilies spread gradually through creeping underground stems or rhizomes, forming attractive clumps over time, so they appreciate a bit of space, too.

There's something especially satisfying about discovering a fall flowering perennial that offers something different from the usual lineup of autumn mums and asters, especially one that brings delicate orchid-like flowers, attractive foliage, and a welcome burst of color just when the garden might otherwise be winding down.

Honestly, if anyone asks why you've planted something called a toad lily, simply invite them over for a closer look. Once they see those extraordinary little blooms, the name might be the last thing on their mind.

Self-seeding flowers initially seem like a delight, particularly in a cottage garden border. There’s an effortless charm to volunteer blooms filling bare gaps between perennials, softening hard edges, and lending an organic, spontaneous feel. However, what starts out as a free-flowering companion can sometimes become an aggressive garden interloper. Left unchecked, enthusiastic self-sowers can quickly wind up in walkways, lawns, vegetable patches, and even your neighbors’ yards.

As their blooms fade, seed heads get ready to burst, scatter, or get carried away by animals to fill new areas. Once the seeds disperse, you’re facing a lot of cleanup in spring. The real danger with these prolific self-seeders lies in their competitive vigor. When permitted to drop seeds in fall, they naturally get a head start on anything you might add in spring, hogging nutrients, and casting shade over slower-growing sunseekers. So fall is an important time to keep key self-seeding flowers in place.

By intervening now to deadhead mature capsules, sever seed stems, and clear away dropped seed heads, you prevent billions of viable seeds from ever hitting the soil. And if there are any standout heirloom varieties you want to keep, you can save their seed for controlled sowing in spring, keeping all the beauty while sparing yourself lots of backbreaking pulling and digging next year. Here are the key culprits you need to control now, with insights on what to do with seed heads so you can still continue to enjoy them on your terms.

Manage Invasive Self-Seeders

Some self-seeders are more aggressive than others, so you need to focus your efforts. Try the strategies that work best for your climate, yard and gardening goals, as well as your USDA hardiness zone. In colder zones 3-5, severe early frosts can sometimes halt late-forming seed heads before they mature. In milder southern and coastal regions (6-9), extended warm falls can give plants weeks of extra time to disperse seed capsules, making rapid intervention vital. Wind patterns and heavy rain can also transport tiny seeds across garden beds in a single afternoon.

The primary defense is regular deadheading. While removing spent flowers in summer promotes reblooming, autumn deadheading is about containment. As petals drop and seed heads swell, snip them away before they turn dark brown, dry out, or split. Always carry a deep bucket or paper sack with you. Tossing cut seed heads onto the ground or moving bare stems across the yard will inadvertently broadcast thousands of seeds hither and yon. Bag up seed heads and discard them in the household trash, never into home compost heaps, which rarely sustain the high internal temperatures required to destroy persistent weed seeds.

Not all self-seeders deserve eviction, however. Native wildflowers like purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) and native black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta) produce sturdy seed cones that feed foraging goldfinches and native songbirds through winter without becoming overly thuggish. Choose this option for an area where you don’t mind some seed dispersal or with flowers that are less aggressive.

Additionally, selective seed saving is a great way to hang onto more unusual or heirloom bloomers. Harvest mature, unopened seed pods on a dry sunny afternoon. Use snips like Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips, available from Amazon, to remove the heads. These spring-action blades give targeted deadheading without dropping loose seeds. Spread your collected seeds on paper towels to cure, then store them in labeled paper envelopes in a cool, dark drawer for measured sowing next spring.

1. Cosmos

With their feathery foliage and cheerful daisy blooms, cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus) add delicate color and movement to beds and borders. However, beneath their dainty features lies a fierce capacity for uninvited propagation. A single plant can produce dozens of flower heads from midsummer through frost, each maturing into a cluster of needle-like seeds with barbed tips that catch on fur, gloves, and clothing.

To prevent cosmos from transforming into an unruly forest next year, inspect the fading flower heads now before the central florets turn black and stiff. Cut off spent blooms while the seed heads are still green or pale tan, or shear the entire plant to ground level once the first frost blackens the stems. If you wish to save seed, snip off a few brown heads on a dry day, strip the spiky seeds into paper envelopes, and store seeds in a cool, dark drawer for sowing next spring. For a good storage tin, try the Pethiy Green Storage Seed Tin, available from Walmart, which I love for its rustic appearance and enduring, airtight reliability.

2. Spider Flowers

Also known as cleome, spider flowers (Cleome hassleriana) produce spidery floral globes with extra-long stamens for brilliant late-season drama in borders. Yet few cottage annuals reseed with as much ruthless efficiency. As petals drop along the lengthening flower stalks, they leave behind long, slender, bean-like seed pods held on wiry pedicels. As these mature from green to brown, they dry out, crack open, and fling dozens of seeds across the yard.

Tackle your cleome before the seed pods reach the brittle stage. However, take care, as mature stems develop sharp spines and sticky hairs. Wear heavy gauntlet gloves and long sleeves. If you need a good pair of long-lasting gauntlet gloves, I love the Womanswork Arm Saver Garden Gloves, available from Anthropologie, with their gorgeous floral pattern and comfy fit. Snip off those green pods and bag them, or sever the entire stalk. If you love their height, keep a few ripe, unopened pods in a paper bag to dry, ensuring you dictate where they grow next season.

3. Forget-Me-Nots

Pretty, delicate forget-me-nots (Myosotis sylvatica) are cherished for their sea of sky-blue flowers, creating a romantic underplanting beneath tulips and flowering shrubs. However, their common name carries a double meaning: if you forget to remove their seed heads, you will spend years pulling up unwanted seedlings from rockeries and paving cracks. Each spent flower produces tiny nutlets with barbs that cling to animal fur and shoelaces, scattering those seeds far and wide.

Ideally, it’s wise to deadhead right after flowering, but this month is the deadline to scout your beds for lingering plants that set seed during late summer. Rake through mulch with a hand cultivator to expose any dry, brown seed clusters that escaped summer snipping. Sever any remaining seed stems, bag the debris, and apply a 2-inch (5cm) layer of clean mulch where needed. Go for an organic wood-based option such as team favorite Back to the Roots Organic Premium Wood Mulch, available from Amazon. This smothers new seeds by depriving them of the sunlight and winter chilling triggers they need to germinate in spring.

4. Purpletop Verbena

Revered by landscape designers for its airy stems topped by vivid violet and pinky-purple blooms, Verbena bonariensis (aka tall verbena or purpletop vervain) is a pollinator magnet that butterflies adore. However, in zones 7-10, this designer darling can be an invasive self-seeding powerhouse. Just a single plant produces tens of thousands of dust-like seeds capable of surviving freezing winters. These germinate with wild abandon in spring.

The challenge lies in how easily mature seed heads shed. The moment the blooms turn from purple to a dull brown, the tiny seeds loosen and scatter at the slightest brush of a breeze or sleeve. Cut back the flowering stems now, while flower clusters still hold a hint of lilac, or cup a bucket beneath the stems as you snip to catch dropping seed heads. Use wipes, such as Clorox Disinfecting Wipes 3-Pack from Walmart, to protect your snips and shears from clinging micro-seeds. Bag cut stems immediately to prevent contaminating lawn edges.

5. Love-in-a-Mist (Nigella)

This vintage cottage garden annual is admired for its blue, pink, and white blooms nestled within a fluffy ruff of misty green bracts. Following bloom, love-in-a-mist (Nigella damascena) flowers transform into intriguing striped seed capsules that look like paper lanterns. While these pods look stunning in dried floral arrangements, it’s risky to leave them in the garden. Once they burst, they will shed hundreds of seeds across your yard like demented pepper shakers.

So, as soon as you see their green lanterns developing dark striping and they start to feel papery to the touch, harvest them with snips before the top horns split. Cut the stems long and tie them upside down inside a paper sack. The seeds will drop into the bag as the capsules dry. Save these in airtight tins for controlled springtime planting. If you need seed-saving envelopes, Artrylin Self-Seal Seed Envelopes (150-Pack) from Walmart are great for labeling, dating, and organising your seeds.

6. Calendula

Also known as pot marigold, calendula (C. officinalis) is a hardworking cool-season annual that brightens borders and edible gardens, and continues blooming late into fall. However, each spent bloom forms a dense ring of seeds with hooked backs, which cling to tools, garden clothing, and pet fur, hitchhiking to new corners of your yard. If left undisturbed, fallen seeds create thick mats of seedlings that can choke out early spring bulbs. Deadhead those spent blooms the moment the petals wilt, snipping just below the green seed ring before it gets rigid.

If self-sown seeds have already scattered across the topsoil, lightly skim the surface with a hand rake to collect the seeds. Then cover the area with compost or shredded bark mulch to prevent early spring calendula germination. If you fancy adding some compost but don’t have enough of your own, The Home and Country USA Store do lovely little Mushroom Compost Pails from Amazon, to help you create a good soil blanket after sorting out your seed heads.

7. Mexican Sunflowers

Few annuals provide the explosive vigor of the Mexican sunflower (Tithonia rotundifolia). Reaching 6-8 feet (1.8-2.4m) tall with brilliant orange blooms, it can draw monarchs and hummingbirds from miles around. However, that size poses a major problem when it self-seeds. Spring volunteer seedlings grow with ferocious speed, quickly developing thick stems and umbrella-like leaves that cast deep shade over surrounding perennials and crops.

By October, spent blooms transform into dark seed heads packed with dozens of stiff, pointed seeds that shatter outward at the slightest bump. Cut fading flowers back promptly before the centers turn dry and brittle. Once frost claims the foliage, chop down the hollow stalks and take them to the municipal waste. If you need strong debris sacks, Lowe’s Heavy Duty Debris Bags hold coarse stalks and seedheads securely for curbside yard disposal. Never toss mature heads into your home compost, or you will see hundreds of giant seedlings in beds next season.

Self-seeding can bring dynamic energy to the landscape, but if you want to prevent unwanted thuggish invasions (and all the gardening chores that go with that) then take timely fall action. The trick is deciding which flowers to allow to spread, which to manage, and how extensively to manage them.

By snipping off ripe seed heads and clearing away loose seed clusters, you can eliminate hours of weeding next spring. It might take a little trial and error, but don’t ignore your self-seeders or you might well regret it come spring. Harvest the seeds you want to keep, dispose of the rest, and enjoy a beautifully balanced and better behaved space next year.

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What would fall be without chrysanthemums? As traditional garden favorites, mums (Chrysanthemum spp.) offer a welcome burst of rich color in autumn, when many other flowering annuals and perennials have faded for the year. From fiery bronzes and golds to lush purples and crisp whites, mums are celebrated globally as symbols of joy, optimism, and longevity.

While growing mums is pretty straightforward, keeping these fall beauties blooming for longer and ensuring their long-term survival requires more effort. Mums fall into two categories: hardy garden mums (C. × morifolium) which can survive winter outdoors in zones 4-9, and florist mums which are grown as temporary decorative annuals. Regardless of which variety adorn your porch or backyard beds, October care determines whether your plants fade fast or stay vibrant into late autumn.

Fortunately, mums are tough, resilient plants. With a few simple steps this month, you can nearly double the time your mums light up the fall garden. Following these 5 essential October tasks ensures a spectacular seasonal finale, while safeguarding your plants for a triumphant return next spring. Here’s how to keep these happy flowers blooming for as long as possible both this year and the next…

Best Mum Care in October

It’s important to know what you can and can’t do for chrysanthemums this month. Depending on your USDA hardiness zone and local weather, different mum varieties sit at varying stages of growth mid-autumn. Early-blooming cushion mums may already be finishing their first flower flush, while late-blooming heirloom varieties like Hillside Sheffield Pink or Clara Curtis are just starting to open their daisy-like blooms.

Managing in-ground plantings and container mums requires a clear understanding of what not to do in October. While it is tempting to plant potted nursery mums into garden beds during autumn sales, October is too late in most northern regions for roots to establish before the ground freezes. Unless you live in a mild southern climate where the first hard freeze is at least 6 weeks away, keep any late-purchased potted mums in their containers rather than risking root death in frozen soil.

Similarly, October is not the time to divide mum clumps: doing this now would be the equivalent of a death sentence. Splitting root crowns in autumn would disrupt the plant's winter survival mechanisms. This month, put a note on the refrigerator to divide mums in early spring when green shoots appear. Dividing in spring every few years helps to keep clumps healthy and vigorous. As for what you can do to help your mums now, these tasks below are really easy to do and won’t take long at all.

Keep an eye on flower and stem quality, water management, container essentials, and crown insulation. If you need to check soil condition before carrying out these tasks, grab a soil meter. The Raintrip 4-in-1 Soil Meter from Amazon is perfect for getting a solid read on soil quality. Then try these easy mum secrets to guarantee a gorgeous flowering display that lasts longer and comes back even stronger.

1. Keep Deadheading

Deadheading is often viewed as a way to encourage fresh flower buds. But that’s not the only reason for deadheading mums. While snipping off spent blooms now may not force a new flush of blooms, it stops the plant from expending energy on seed production. By regularly snapping or snipping off brown, wilting flower heads just above the nearest leaf junction, you force the plant to redirect all its energy downward into root growth and crown development.

Building a robust root system now is key to helping garden mums survive winter freezes and break dormancy in spring. Make deadheading a quick weekly routine for the next few weeks. Pinch off faded blooms with your fingers. Alternatively, remove them with snips or spring-action blades like Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips, available from Amazon which are great for clean cuts that won’t tug or damage stems. Keeping spent flowers removed also improves airflow around remaining buds and prevents gray mold (botrytis) from taking hold in damp fall rain.

2. Don’t Stop Watering

Consistent moisture is essential for keeping mums hydrated and blooming through October. While fall weather brings cooler temperatures and frequent rain, seasonal rainfall may not be sufficient to meet the needs of dense, heavily budded mums, especially container-grown specimens. Container mums have tightly packed roots that dry out rapidly in fall. Check potted soil daily by inserting a finger an inch (2.5cm) into the pot. If it feels dry, water thoroughly until fluid runs from the drainage holes. For ground-planted mums, check soil moisture every couple of days.

Your job as a mum mom is to check frequently. When watering, direct it to the base of the plant rather than overhead. Keeping foliage and open petals dry prevents fungal pathogens like powdery mildew, rust, and leaf spot from ruining your fall display. Every couple of weeks, add a diluted seaweed or kelp drench. GS Plant Foods Organic Liquid Kelp, available from Walmart, adds a light mineral boost to help stressed mums maintain vibrant flower color for longer. Once the soil freezes solid, stop watering in-ground plants.

3. Don’t Cut Everything Back

October is not the time to do a hard pruning of your mums. You should snip off any diseased or rotting foliage. Cut off yellow foliage and leaves close to the base of the plant that are likely to harbor fungal diseases. If you need a comfortable set, Corona Dual Link ComfortGel Bypass Pruners from Lowe’s are excellent value and highly efficient. However, leave the main stems intact. Performing a hard prune in fall is one of the most common reasons garden mums fail to return in spring.

Allow the woody stems to stand uncut through the fall and even the winter. These stems trap snow that helps to insulate the roots and protect the crown. Furthermore, standing stems provide valuable winter habitat for beneficial garden insects. Wait until early spring, when green shoots peek through the soil, to cut the old, woody stems back to ground level.

4. Protect Container Mums

In-ground garden mums planted in the ground can survive much colder weather than container mums. Potted mums, however, face a bit more of a challenge. Soil in above-ground pots can freeze solid quickly, subjecting pots to freeze-thaw cycles. If you want your potted mums to survive winter, protect them before hard freezes arrive. In mild regions (zones 7-9), move your containers to a sheltered spot against a warm, south-facing house wall and wrap the pots in burlap or bubble wrap.

In colder northern regions (zones 3-6), transition dormant potted mums into an unheated garage or shed once night temperatures drop consistently below freezing. Use the excellent Bloem 12-Inch Heavy Duty Terracotta Plant Caddies, available from Walmart, to move heavier mum containers for overwintering. Their caster wheels make light work of moving heavy pots. The goal is to keep the soil cold and dormant (around 32-40°F / 0-4°C) without exposing roots to sub-zero winds. Water your stored pots lightly once a month to prevent roots from drying out completely.

5. Mulch After a Hard Freeze

Applying a protective blanket of mulch over garden mums is an essential fall task, but timing is everything. Applying mulch too early in October, while soil is still warm, can trap heat and moisture against the crown of the plant, encouraging fungal rot and encouraging pests to nest. Wait until after the first hard freeze has killed off top growth and the ground begins to cool significantly before adding your mulch.

Spread a 2-4-inch (5-10cm) layer of loose, airy organic material (such as clean straw, evergreen boughs, or pine needles) around the base of each plant. You can also use an organic wood mulch. Our team loves Back to the Roots Organic Premium Wood Mulch, available from Amazon for a dye-free bark mulch that insulates crowns against freeze-thaw cycles and helps prevent frost heave. Loose materials insulate the crown without packing down into a heavy, waterlogged mat. Just don’t use heavy packed leaves which can suffocate the plant.

Taking a little time to care for your mums this month pays massive dividends now and next year. By maintaining consistent moisture, deadheading spent blooms, leaving main stems intact, and applying a protective layer of mulch after the first hard frost, you maintain strong, healthy plants for seasons to come. Give your mums the attention they deserve this month, and enjoy their lush blooms year after year.

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Coneflowers are one of my favorite flowers to grow for their cheerful summer blooms and their ability to attract pollinators. I love that they tend to just get on with everything, with or without my help. That being said, though...

Well, even when their petals have faded and the garden is beginning to wind down for winter, though, I wouldn't advise you to forget about your coneflowers just yet. In fact, October is a useful time to give these perennials a little attention, helping them prepare for the colder months while making the most of what they still have to offer.

The good news is that coneflowers (Echinacea spp.) don't need a complicated fall care routine. With that in mind, then, what do these pretty blooms want from us all when the weather starts to turn?

3 Things You Should Do to Coneflowers in October

I feel it's my duty to point out that one of the most helpful things you can do for coneflowers resist the temptation to cut everything back, as their dried flower heads can provide food for hungry birds, while leaving healthy stems standing can add structure to the garden through winter.

There are, however, a few things worth checking before the weather turns colder. From deciding which seedheads to leave in place to spotting diseased foliage, here are three October tasks I'd prioritize for healthier coneflowers and a more wildlife-friendly garden.

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1. Leave Some Seedheads for Goldfinches and Other Birds

If there's one thing I'd encourage gardeners to do with their coneflowers in October, it's to leave the healthy seedheads standing. Once the colorful petals have dropped, the central cones dry out and contain seeds that birds can forage on through fall and winter.

American goldfinches are particularly fond of coneflower seeds, and watching these bright-yellow birds perch on the sturdy stems and pick out the seeds is a lovely reminder that a garden can keep giving long after its flowers have faded. Other seed-eating birds (including your very own birth month bird) may also visit, depending on your region and the species growing in your garden.

I'd resist the urge to deadhead every faded flower simply to make the border look tidy. Instead, leave plenty of healthy seedheads in place and let them provide a natural food source. They'll also add interesting shapes and texture to the winter garden, particularly when dusted with frost.

One thing to keep in mind is that not every coneflower cultivar produces the same amount of viable seed. Some highly bred double-flowered varieties may offer less to birds than simpler, single-flowered forms. If supporting wildlife is a priority, consider growing native purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) and other varieties known to produce seed.

2. Check for Diseased Foliage Before Winter

Although I'd leave healthy coneflower stems standing, I wouldn't ignore signs of disease. October is a good time to look over the foliage and remove material that's badly affected by fungal problems, particularly powdery mildew.

Powdery mildew often appears as a pale, powdery coating on leaves and stems. It can be more noticeable late in the growing season, especially when plants have experienced humid conditions or poor air circulation. A little cosmetic damage isn't necessarily a reason to remove an otherwise healthy plant, but heavily affected foliage shouldn't simply be left to sit in the garden.

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I'd stick to the Three D's rule and cut out badly diseased material using clean pruning tools and dispose of it appropriately rather than adding it to a home compost pile. This helps reduce the amount of infected debris left around the plant.

It's important to be selective here. I wouldn't cut every coneflower down just because some leaves are looking tired. Healthy stems and seedheads can remain standing for birds and winter interest, while diseased material can be removed as needed.

3. Protect the Roots and Leave the Major Cleanup Until Spring

My final October task would be to prepare coneflowers for winter without disturbing them unnecessarily. In most gardens, established coneflowers are hardy perennials that don't require extensive protection, but a little attention to the soil can help.

I'd check that the soil around the plants isn't compacted and make sure water can drain away rather than pooling around the crowns. Coneflowers generally prefer well-drained soil, and persistently wet conditions can cause problems during colder weather. If the ground is dry, I may water the plants before the soil freezes, particularly if conditions have been unusually dry. And a light layer of mulch can help moderate soil temperatures and protect roots, although I'd avoid piling it directly over the crown.

Most importantly, I'd leave the main cleanup until spring. Once the weather warms and new growth begins to emerge, I can cut back the old stems before they get in the way. Waiting also means I don't remove useful seedheads too early or disturb wildlife that may be using the garden through winter.

Basically, coneflowers don't need much fuss in October, and that's part of their appeal. By leaving healthy seedheads for goldfinches, removing diseased foliage when necessary, and protecting the root zone without cutting everything down, I can help these reliable perennials get through winter while keeping the garden useful to wildlife.

Rather than treating fall as a time to strip the garden bare, I'd see it as an opportunity to be more selective. A few standing stems can provide food, shelter, and winter interest – and when spring arrives, the coneflowers will be ready to grow again. And you can't say better than that, right?

Plenty of people care for a moth orchid the same way in fall as they do in summer. But by October, days are shorter, the sun sits lower, and the furnace dries out the air. Growth slows down, and that slowdown is when the plant starts setting up its next flower spike.

Fall orchid care isn't hard. You'll move the plant, water it less and feed it less, and you'll want to look it over more closely than you did in summer. Most of that takes only a few minutes.

These six tasks apply to moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) and other common types of orchids sold in grocery stores as houseplants. Yellow leaves, wrinkled leaves, and stray roots show up a lot this time of year, too.

1. Move Orchids Into Their Brightest Spot

Light fades fast this month, and that bright spot from July might not cut it by November. East windows are the safest bet most of the year for meeting orchid light requirements. Once winter settles in and the sun hangs low and weak, though, a south window usually works, too.

With orchids, the leaves will tell you if you've got it wrong. A deep, dark green is the giveaway for not enough light. Too much shows up as a reddish edge, although that's less of a worry this time of year. For an interior room or a dim corner, try a grow light like the Sansi full-spectrum LED plant lamp, available on Amazon, which clips onto the side of the pot.

Whatever you do, just don't let the leaves rest against cold glass, as this can cause chilling damage, leaving unsightly dark patches on the foliage.

2. Adjust Your Watering Routine

Slower growth means the potting mix stays wet longer. That makes overwatering the bigger danger until spring. Wait until the mix is nearly dry, then water thoroughly and let it drain. Never leave the pot sitting in a saucer of water.

Root color is often the best guide for watering orchids – they're silvery white when dry and green right after watering. Traditional moisture meters like the popular Yamron 4-in-1 don't work very well with orchids, as chunky bark mixes throw off probe readings; however, the Sustee Aquameter, available in a pack of 5 on Amazon, uses a moisture-absorbing wick rather than electrical conductivity, making it better suited, as long as it's in contact with plenty of potting mix. The indicator changes color from blue to white as the growing medium dries out.

Hold off on repotting orchids in the fall unless the bark has started to break down and become compacted, which can restrict airflow around the roots and increase the risk of rot.

3. Reduce or Stop Feeding

It's tempting to keep the summer feeding schedule year-round. But an orchid's fertilizer needs follow its growth, and growth slows as the days shorten. You can still feed moth orchids that are putting out new leaves, just less often. Every third or fourth watering is enough. Use a water-soluble fertilizer like Better-Gro Orchid Plus, which you can pick up at Walmart.

Plants with no new leaves, roots, or spikes can go without until growth starts again. Extra fertilizer on a resting plant mostly means soft, leafy growth and fewer flowers. It also leaves salts in the bark, so flush the pot with plain water now and then.

4. Increase Humidity as the Heat Comes On

So what does the furnace do to an orchid? Indoor humidity can drop below 30 percent once the heat runs regularly. Most tropical orchids prefer humidity around 60 to 75 percent. A spray bottle won't close that gap. The mist is gone within minutes.

To increase humidity for your orchids, try a pebble tray. Simply fill a shallow tray with gravel, add water about halfway up the stones, and set the pot on top. This Brussel's Bonsai tray from Amazon is a ready-to-go solution. Don't let the roots touch the water.

If you have a lot of houseplants grouped in one space, humidity will naturally increase. But if orchids are still struggling, try a small humidifier – this Pure Enrichment MistAire Ultrasonic Cool Mist Humidifier from Walmart runs up to 25 hours per fill.

5. Inspect for Pests Before Winter

Healthy-looking orchids can still have pests. Many hide where you'd never notice unless you go looking, and a warm, dry house helps some of them along. Grab a flashlight and magnifying glass (this Large Magnifying Glass with 37 LED Lights from Amazon covers both) and check under the leaves, down in the joint where each leaf meets the stem, and along the flower stems.

• Cottony white clumps tucked in there are probably long-tailed mealybugs (Pseudococcus longispinus).
• Scale is sneakier – Boisduval scale (Diaspis boisduvalii) looks like whitish, waxy flecks stuck flat to a leaf, and it can pass for dried residue.
• Fine speckling, sometimes with a bit of webbing, usually means two-spotted spider mites (Tetranychus urticae).
• And fungus gnats (Bradysia spp.)? They're mostly harmless on their own – more a sign that the mix is staying too wet than a real threat.

Isolate any orchid with pests. Then dab the mealybugs with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol (you can buy it cheaply at Walmart), and keep the alcohol off the leaves.

6. Watch for Flower Spikes

Cool fall weather triggers a new spike in many moth orchids (Phalaenopsis). Four or five weeks of days around 77°F (25°C) and nights near 68°F (20°C), or a little cooler, reliably bring one on. Days above 82°F (28°C) can hold it back.

New spikes look a lot like new roots at first. Check the tip. Spikes have a flattened, mitten-shaped tip and usually come up between the lower leaves, and root tips are round.

Stake the spike while it's still flexible – you can pick up a pack of bendable orchid stakes from Stroller on Amazon – and don't turn the pot once buds form.

Prune old brown spikes off at the base. Viruses can spread on tools, so dip the blades in a 10 percent bleach solution between plants.

Quick Fixes for Common Orchid Problems

Three problems come up again and again once orchids move indoors:

• Yellow Leaves
  One yellow leaf at the bottom of a moth orchid is nothing to worry about. The oldest leaves age out and drop as the plant grows. Several yellow orchid leaves at once are another story, especially newer ones. That usually points to the roots. Too much water and old, soggy bark are common causes of root rot. Unpot the plant, trim off any mushy roots, and repot it in fresh bark.
• Wrinkled Leaves
  Limp, wrinkled orchid leaves mean water isn't getting to them. Moth orchids have no pseudobulbs to store water, so they show thirst quickly. Check the roots first – firm, healthy roots point to underwatering or dry air. Rotted roots can't take up water no matter how often you water.
• Aerial Roots
  Silvery roots climbing over the rim of the pot are normal. Orchids grow on trees in the wild and use their roots to cling to bark. Leave healthy aerial roots alone. Trim dead or shriveled ones the next time you repot.

An orchid doesn't need much from you this month. More light, less water, lighter feeding, and a quick pest check cover most of it. Keep those habits going through winter, and there's a good chance a fresh spike shows up before spring, followed by a gorgeous run of flowers.

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I love peonies, but that isn’t something I announce very often among gardeners. It’s a little like saying “I love cheese” in France. Everyone loves cheese in France, and the vast majority of gardeners adore these large, plush flowers with their abundance of tissue-paper petals. That’s why a peony is called the queen of the flowers.

Are peonies drought-tolerant and the kind of plant that thrives on neglect? Not at all, but fans insist that their dramatic, over-the-top, lush beauty makes it all worthwhile. October is a key time for peony care – and I am here to give you the scoop.

Keep in mind that these glorious flowers come in three separate varieties: herbaceous, intersectional, and tree peonies. The steps you need to take in October will depend on which of the three types you have in your landscape.

1. Cutting Back Herbaceous and Itoh Peonies

Of the three types of peonies, herbaceous peonies are the most common in home gardens. Their stems are not woody; they grow in spring and die back each winter. Itoh peonies, also called intersectional peonies, are hybrids, offering bigger flowers, stronger stems, and a longer growing season than herbaceous peonies. However, they also die back in autumn.

Cutting back your herbaceous and Itoh peonies is an important chore for October, but don’t jump the gun. As long as the peony leaves are green, they still are feeding the peony roots. Don’t cut them back until your area experiences a hard freeze. You will know because the foliage will turn yellow or brown. Once that happens, cut them back to some 2 inches (5 cm) above the soil. I like to use Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears, available from Amazon, for this task because they make clean cuts that are less likely to damage dormant buds.

Once the peonies have been trimmed back, it’s clean-up time. Pick up all the messy pieces and toss them in the trash. Don’t think of dumping the debris into the compost pile. Overwintering there can cause fungal or mold issues.

2. Pruning Tree Peonies

Unlike herbaceous varieties, tree peonies have woody branches that stay in the garden all year. Their flowers are larger than herbaceous peonies' blooms, and they flower earlier in the season.

The most critical rule when it comes to pruning tree peonies is: DO NOT EVER cut them back to the ground. Leave the woody stems and branches alone. Snipping off woody branches will reduce (or eliminate) next year's flower buds. October is not the time to do heavy pruning – wait for late winter.

On the other hand, you should trim off the mature seed pods in October. You’ll recognize them because they are leathery. Also clip off dead or dying brown leaves. While you clear these away, take the time to pick up other fallen leaves and plant debris from the base of the plant to prevent fungal issues.

If your tree peony struggled with fungal issues this year, thorough cleanup is your first line of defense. Then, in spring, consider applying a preventative copper fungicide, like Bonide Captain Jack's Copper Fungicide, as new growth emerges to help protect fresh foliage.

3. Divide or Move Established Peonies

October is a great time to divide or transplant peonies if the plants are crowded or are currently growing in shade. If you move plants in the fall, they will have enough time to establish roots sufficiently to bear spring blooms.

Whether you are dividing or transplanting, the first step is to dig up the plant. A narrow perennial spade makes the job easier, especially when working around established plants. The Radius Garden Root Slayer Perennial Shovel, available from Home Depot, has a serrated blade that helps cut through tough soil and roots, making it particularly useful for dividing mature clumps. Work carefully around the peony to preserve as much of its root system as possible.

To divide peonies, dig up a clump of roots with healthy stems and leaves attached, then separate it from the main plant with a sharp knife or perennial spade. Each division should have at least three buds; they will grow into next year’s shoots. Plant each division about one inch (2.5 cm) deep.

4. Water Newly Planted or Transplanted Peonies

All newly planted peonies need a deep, thorough watering right after planting. This includes both new bare-root plants and all transplanted peonies. After that, water them weekly, or twice a week during dry periods, unless it rains. The soil should be moist, not wet. If you're unsure when to water, a Yamron 4-in-1 Soil Moisture Meter, available on Amazon, can help you check moisture levels before you reach for the hose and avoid overwatering newly planted peonies.

So, when should you reduce watering? Do it gradually in autumn, as temperatures drop. Once the ground freezes, stop supplemental watering.

5. Apply Mulch

I like to think of mulch as a snuggy blanket for my plants, but it actually serves a bigger purpose. Mulch keeps the soil warmer, holds in moisture, and keeps down weeds. Autumn plant maintenance almost always includes mulch.

But when it comes to peonies, there are certain mulch rules that you have to keep in mind. First, established plants don’t need mulch. Only use mulch on new or newly transplanted peonies.

Second, don’t cover the buds (aka eyes). Instead of a snuggly blanket, apply a light, loose ring of mulch around each new or transplanted peony. This prevents frost-heaving during the first winter.

Third, pick your mulch type carefully. Don't use any mulch that can trap moisture since it can rot the crown. Instead, use a light layer of straw, shredded leaves, or evergreen boughs. If you don't have your own straw, EZ Straw Seeding Mulch, available from Home Depot, is a convenient option that provides insulation while still allowing air to circulate around the crown. Avoid compost, fresh manure, or sawdust.

6. Plant New Peonies

Autumn is one of the best times of year to plant peonies. Cooler temperatures and still-warm soil give new plants plenty of time to establish roots before winter arrives, setting them up for strong growth the following spring. Whether you're planting a nursery-grown peony or a division from an established plant, getting it into the ground in October gives it the best chance to settle in before dormancy.

Choose a sunny spot with fertile, well-drained soil, and avoid planting the crown too deeply. The buds, or "eyes", should sit no more than 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) below the soil surface, as planting too deeply is one of the most common reasons peonies fail to bloom.

If you're planting into heavy clay or poor soil, mixing in a quality planting mix such as Miracle-Gro Garden Soil for Flowers, available from Walmart, can help improve drainage and give new peonies the best possible start.

Water thoroughly after planting, then apply a light ring of mulch around new plants to help protect the roots through their first winter, taking care not to cover the buds.

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Every September, garden centers fill up with potted chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum × morifolium), row upon row packed tight with promising flower buds. You might eagerly select two lush, rounded pots for the front porch steps, imagining weeks of rich fall color. But then, just a couple of days after bringing them home, you notice dozens of tight brown buds scattered on the porch floor, and the plant looks ready to collapse. And you’ll possibly conclude that you’ve bought a dud.

Usually, it wasn’t, though. In almost every case, that plant is healthy. The problem is lurking down in the pot, where nobody generally thinks to look. Mums (as they are affectionately known) are notoriously thirsty, fast-growing plants with dense root systems that devour water at an astonishing rate. Store-bought florist mums in plastic containers are frequently root-bound long before they reach retail shelves. Root balls can often lock up, depriving those thirsty buds of vital hydration.

The good news? You don't need expensive plant gimmicks or advanced skills to turn things around. All you need is a special soak – what I like to call the “bottoms up” soak, as it treats your thirsty flowers from the base of the plant. This special drink is all you need to pull your mums out of their slump before the rest of the buds are lost. It’s easy to carry out and the entire rescue takes less than 20 minutes, most of which can be spent with a warm cup of coffee while nature recharges your plant…

Why Buds Can Drop Fast

Commercial nurseries feed potted mums on intensive, high-nitrogen liquid fertilizers all summer to get those iconic domes of buds ready for fall. After months inside small plastic pots, fertilizer salts accumulate inside the potting mix. Sometimes this shows up as a white crust around the rim of the pot, but sometimes it doesn’t show at all.

As soil moisture evaporates, salt concentrations spike. The more concentrated those salts get, the harder it is for roots to pull in water. This can create an osmotic lock where the roots are blocked from absorbing moisture, even if the soil still feels damp to your touch. Once potted mums arrive on your sunny porch or patio, environmental stress compounds the problem. Bright fall sunlight and steady winds can dry a root-packed nursery pot to the core in under 12 hours.

When roots run dry, the plant makes a survival choice: it sheds its flower buds to preserve moisture for the stems. Growers may mistake bud drop for pest infestations or drafts, reaching for insecticides or overwatering from the top, which exacerbates root rot. Any buds that have turned crisp, dry, or dark brown are done, so gently pinch those off with your fingers or snip them with fine scissors or snips like team favorite Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon. That way, “bad buds” don't wind up hosting gray mold (botrytis). Those plump, healthy, tight green buds, however, are just waiting to be saved…

1. Do the Bottoms Up Soak

Before soaking, perform the weight test. Lift the pot by the rim: if it feels heavy and water squishes up around your thumb, poor drainage or root rot is the issue, and soaking won't help. If the pot feels light as a feather, it's severely dehydrated. Be sure to strip off any decorative foil sleeves immediately! Foil wraps trap stagnant water against lower roots, inviting fungal disease. In dry nursery pots, peat-based potting soil shrinks away from the pot creating a gap down which top-poured water simply spills out of the drainage holes, leaving the dense central root core bone dry.

To execute the "bottoms up" soak, fill a shallow tub, bucket or washbasin with 3-4 inches (8-10cm) of room-temperature water. Collected rainwater or distilled water is ideal, as it carries zero chlorine or mineral salts. A flexible tub such as the Tubtrug Original Flexible Tub from Amazon is ideal for bottom-soaking a big mum.

Lower the nursery pot into the water so the lower half sits submerged. Let capillary action draw water upwards directly into the compacted root core for 15-20 minutes. You'll know it's ready when the top surface of the soil turns dark, damp, and cool to the touch. Severely shrunken pots may need up to 30 minutes. Lift the pot out and allow excess water to drain freely. After this time, you are ready for a quick top-flush.

2. Flush Salts from the Top

This is the crucial secondary step that is easy to skip – but please don’t. The natural impulse is to stop once the pot feels heavy again after its bath. While bottom-soaking saturates dry peat, water moving upward carries dissolved fertilizer salts toward the upper root zone rather than removing them. Leaving those concentrated salts in the soil will trigger another round of bud drop within a week. So the flush is crucial!

To complete your mum rescue, take the potted mum to an outdoor sink, gravel path, or garden bed where drainage can escape freely. Using room-temperature water, slowly pour a generous stream directly over the top of the potting soil until water streams out the drainage holes. Pause for a couple of minutes, then repeat the process. If you need a good watering can, a 2-gallon model like the Bloem Deluxe Mint Green Watering Can from The Home Depot holds plenty for both passes.

This top-flush washes away dissolved fertilizer salts and flushes out stagnant material from the roots. Never allow the pot to sit in its own drained runoff, as the roots will reabsorb those flushed salts. Once flushed, refrain from applying synthetic fertilizer for the rest of the bloom season. The plant already has more than enough stored energy to open its remaining buds. The combination of these steps is what helps to rehydrate stubborn peat soils, dissolve fertilizer crusts, and restore root flow.

3. After the Soak: Repotting

Once your mum is rehydrated and flushed, a pot upgrade will help protect swelling buds for longer. While repotting in full bud may create slight stress, keeping it trapped in a cramped 6-8-inch (15-20cm) plastic nursery pot is likely to prompt further drying cycle crashes. The gentlest approach is potting on. Slide the root ball out of its plastic sleeve. Place it directly into a container 2-4 inches (5-10cm) wider, backfilling the gap with fresh potting soil. Self-watering planters with built-in drainage reservoirs work brilliantly. Tierra Verde Citadel Horizon Self-Watering Planters from Amazon have sleek, classic lines to show off bright mum colors.

Placement is your final secret weapon for long-lasting October blooms. While mums need sunlight to flower, placing them in scorching, full-day heat causes open blooms to fade rapidly. Aim for bright morning sunlight paired with some afternoon shade, such as a covered front porch or eastern-facing patio. Cooler microclimates slow down water loss and keep open flower heads crisp and vibrant for weeks longer.

If you are growing hardy garden mums intended for permanent beds, keep them well-watered in their new pots until flowers finish, then plant them into beds 4 weeks before ground freezes are anticipated. Use excellent Bloem 12-Inch Heavy Duty Terracotta Plant Caddies, available from Walmart, to move heavier mum containers into position. Their caster wheels make light work of moving heavy pots.

Fall Mum Essentials

Once your mums have perked up, make sure you get the most out of their blooming season. Tending to your potted blooms with gentle tonics, tools, and root conditioners makes it possible to maintain vibrant porch displays into November. These curated essentials help you rescue, protect, and enjoy your flowers for longer.

Seeing your mums drop tight buds is disheartening, but it doesn't mean your fall display is over! By giving dehydrated roots this 15-minute soak and flushing away accumulated nursery salts, you’ll give those remaining buds the hydration boost they need to open into a lovely long-lasting dome of fall color. So grab a bucket, give your thirsty mums a quick bath today, and enjoy a vibrant front porch all autumn long.

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October is a transition time for roses in many growing zones. Your goal now should not be to promote more growth or flowering, but essentially to put them to bed for winter. You might still have some blooms right now, but the shorter days and cooler temperatures are signaling the plants to prepare for dormancy.

It’s not quite time yet for your roses to be dormant, but it is time to get ready. In October, you should be cleaning up, watering, doing a little light pruning, and avoiding triggering any new growth. Growing roses successfully depends on this end-of-season care, so take a little time to complete these important tasks while stopping others.

1. Stop Deadheading

Some types of roses benefit from deadheading, which encourages reblooming. If you grow these varieties, which include floribundas and grandifloras, you’ve probably been picking off spent flowers all summer and into early fall. This prevents flowers from developing rose hips and, instead, puts energy into more blooms.

By October, you can stop this task. Let some rose hips develop to signal to the plant that it is slowing down and preparing to enter dormancy. Rose hips also offer good visual interest as the season winds down and help feed local wildlife.

2. Clean up Around Roses

Roses are notoriously prone to disease, so cleaning up around plants is an essential hygiene task. Removing and disposing of plant debris, whether it looks diseased or not, helps prevent the spread of pathogens, including bacteria and fungi, which can overwinter there.

Remove fallen leaves from around the bases of roses as well as any lower leaves that look diseased or are damaged. Don’t put these in the compost pile. Dispose of them with yard waste or garbage.

If your roses struggled with a disease like black spot or powdery mildew this year, thorough fall cleanup is your first line of defense. Then, next spring, consider applying a preventative rose fungicide before new foliage emerges to help protect fresh growth. I like BioAdvanced All-in-One Rose and Flower Care Granules, available on Amazon, because they double as a fertilizer.

3. Do Some Light Trimming

As you clean up debris and remove any questionable leaves, you can also do some light fall rose pruning. Save the hard pruning for late winter or early spring. For now, it’s best to exercise restraint. Too much trimming triggers fresh growth that will only get damaged by winter conditions.

Focus on removing any dead, damaged, or diseased canes. It’s also a good idea to trim back the height a little on taller plants. This will protect them from winter winds that can damage canes or loosen roots in the soil. Remove about one-third of the height of tall canes. Climbing roses are exceptions to this. Rather than trimming them back, tie and train them against their supports.

When pruning roses, it's essential to use clean, sharp pruners to avoid damaging stems and spreading disease. In our testing, the best garden pruners were Felco F6 pruning shears, available on Amazon.

4. Stop Fertilizing

Along with stopping the chore of deadheading, you can also stop feeding your roses. Fertilizing now, especially with a high-nitrogen product, will trigger new, green growth. This new growth is wasted energy for a plant going dormant.

New growth is tender and highly susceptible to damage. Damaged green growth isn’t just wasted energy. It can also introduce pathogens and disease into otherwise healthy plants. Instead, wait until your roses begin actively growing again in spring before feeding. A balanced rose fertilizer, such as Espoma Organic Rose-tone, will provide a steady supply of nutrients to support healthy foliage and abundant blooms as the new season gets underway.

5. Water Deeply

It’s a mistake to assume that cooler weather means plants don’t need any watering. While you may water less as temperatures drop, especially if your area is getting rain, roses benefit from water right up until the ground freezes. If it isn’t raining once or twice a week, you should be watering.

Water deeply at ground level to avoid splashing leaves. Water your roses whenever the top layer of soil feels dry. Potted roses may need watering more often. While you don’t want the soil constantly wet, adequate water will hydrate your plants and better prepare them for a healthy winter dormancy.

If you aren't sure how dry the soil is, use a moisture meter, like the Yamron 4-in-1 soil moisture meter, available on Amazon, which also checks for soil pH, light intensity, and temperature – all factors that can affect the performance of roses.

6. Start Thinking About Winter Protection

Depending on where you garden, October may or may not be the right time to apply winter protection for roses. Either way, it’s a good time to start planning and, if needed, implementing these protection measures. Older, hardier roses might not need much, but smaller plants, hybrid roses, potted plants, and roses in more exposed areas can benefit from protection.

Wait until a hard freeze before you use any significant protection. If you do it too early, you can interfere with the plants’ transition into dormancy. Protection options include applying mulch, like Miracle-Gro Organic All Natural Mulch from Home Depot, around the base, tying canes together, or using a rose collar around the plants. Rose collars, like these pop-up rose cones on Amazon, are especially useful for potted roses, which are more vulnerable to winter cold.

Fall Rose Care Essentials

Effective October rose care is all about restraint. The focus is on doing less as the plants prepare for winter dormancy. This doesn’t mean doing nothing, of course. You’re winding down care, not stopping entirely. Clean up around roses, do any necessary trimming, keep watering as needed, and let the deadheading and fertilizing go. With these simple steps, your roses will enter dormancy healthy and ready to grow and bloom again next year.

Before we get into the wonderful world of floral dupes, I want it on record that I have nothing against zinnias. In fact, I love them. Honestly, give me a garden absolutely packed with those colorful blooms and I’m going to stop and admire it.

Zinnias have that wonderful ability to make a garden look instantly abundant, and I love how many colors and flower shapes there are to play with. And, when these beauties are at their peak, it’s hard to imagine a more cheerful summer flower.

There is just one small problem: they’re annuals, which means that, every year, I have to start all over again. Understandably, then, I’ve been looking for a perennial that gives me some of that same flower power. Something big, colorful and gloriously over-the-top... but something I can plant once and enjoy again the following year.

The Ultimate Zinnia Dupe?

The best dupe, in my humble opinion, for a zinnia is a double coneflower (available at Amazon).

Now, if your mental picture of a coneflower is a simple pink daisy with a big brown cone in the middle, you may be in for a surprise; some of the newer double-flowered varieties are positively extravagant, with layers of petals creating rounded, almost pom-pom-like centers.

They’re not shy flowers; they are dramatic, and flouncing, and they have serious presence, which means that, if you plant a good-sized clump, you can get that same feeling of abundance that makes a bed of zinnias so irresistible.

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Now, don't get me wrong; zinnias are brilliant for filling a garden with color, but their annual nature means there’s always a little bit of work involved in getting that display back each year. Coneflowers, on the other hand, are perennials. Once established in a suitable spot, they can return year after year, getting more impressive as the clump matures.

That makes them especially appealing if, like me, you love the look of a packed flower bed but don't necessarily want to rebuild it from scratch every spring. Even better, they aren't particularly precious plants. Once established, they can tolerate periods of dry weather, and it generally prefers a sunny position with well-drained soil, making it a useful choice for gardeners who want plenty of flowers without having to constantly fuss over them.

As if all that weren't enough, this zinnia dupe features stunning seedheads that can be left standing into fall and winter rather than immediately cutting everything back. They add structure to the garden when much of it has died back, and birds may make use of the seeds.

Zinnias are still fantastic, of course, and there are some things they do that perennial coneflowers simply can't replicate; they give you enormous flexibility with color, they're brilliant for cutting, and they can produce an almost ridiculous number of flowers in a single season.

If you want a perennial dupe, though, you can't go wrong with double coneflowers! They give me the same thing I love about zinnias (bold color, abundance and that slightly extravagant “look at me” quality) while promising to pop back each year to put on the same magnificent show.

You can't say fairer than that, really!

Walk down any garden path this month, and you’ll likely meet the usual suspects. Tightly packed potted chrysanthemums and cheerful asters dominate porch steps and garden beds, and they represent the classic choice for fall color. Yet, for all their prolific hues, mums often act as short-lived annuals that tire quickly after the first hard freeze, leaving bare gaps right when late fall beds and borders need a lift.

Instead of settling for a quick fix, why not add something unexpectedly gorgeous that your neighbors can admire with fascination? These choice perennial plants provide fall color every year – and this month is both a great time to plant them and to enjoy their uplifting blooms. It might sound too good to be true, but these perennial treasures return year after year with breathtaking late-season brilliance.

Expanding your horizons reveals a wealth of underrated perennial stars, from delicate, dancing flower wands to clouds of nectar-rich blooms. By slipping these unsung hero perennials into your borders now, you aren't just saving late-season borders from fading away. You are actively investing in a richer, low-maintenance garden story that bursts into life every October.

Flowering Perennials for October

The cooler air temperatures and still-warm soil are ideal for establishing these fall perennial plants before winter. While it may feel chilly in the air, the soil remains warm from months of summer sun, and is highly receptive to healthy plantings. This gentle ground warmth creates an excellent foundation for root development, allowing newly planted perennials to root deep without the threat of late summer heat.

Planting your flowering perennials in fall is all about timing. As long as your ground remains workable and you have 3-4 weeks before the first winter frost is anticipated in your area, the plant’s roots should settle in happily. Your growing or hardiness zone will determine how fast you move in October. In cooler northern regions (zones 3-6), you should aim to get plants into the ground early in the month, so root systems adapt before soil temperatures plummet. In the south (zones 7-10), growers have a longer runway, and warm soil conditions allow easy planting well into late fall.

Late-season soil is often depleted or compacted after busy summer growth. Take a moment to enrich your planting holes with rich organic matter to give young root systems a head start. Once your new perennials are tucked into place, apply a generous 2-3-inch (5-8 cm) blanket of shredded bark or leaf mulch. Organic favorite Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch, available from Amazon, will help maintain ground conditions and prevent winter frost heaving.

Finally, make sure you water your newly planted perennials regularly until the ground freezes. Deep, regular watering is the secret to winter survival for any late-season additions. That way, these unexpectedly lovely flowering perennials will add color and movement through late fall, and continue their fall shows year after year.

1. Joe Pye Weed

If you need a tall perennial to add texture, balance and beauty at the back of your fall borders, Joe Pye weed (Eutrochium purpureum) is a champion. Rising up to 6-8 feet (1.8-2.4m) tall on sturdy stems, this plant forms massive domed heads of dusty-rose or mauve flowers that glow in late afternoon sunlight. It’s also a lovely late-season refueling station for monarch butterflies and bees when other nectar sources are scarce. If you are looking for a stunning compact native that can add joy to small spaces, go for Little Joe Joe Pye Weed Plants from Plant Addicts.

Hardy in USDA zones 4-9, Joe Pye weed thrives in full sun to partial shade and craves soil that stays moist. It is naturally tailored for rain gardens, pond edges, or low-lying garden spots. Key varieties like Baby Joe offer compact choices for smaller yards without sacrificing bloom impact. Just keep soil consistently damp while the plant establishes. It looks amazing paired with golden ornamental grasses or towering black-eyed Susans.

2. Goldenrod

Goldenrod (Solidago spp.) has suffered from bad publicity for decades, due to widespread confusion with ragweed. But despite fears, this native beauty will not trigger fall allergies, so don’t be afraid of its joyful blooms. Capable of flowering all the way to November, goldenrod produces feather-like sprays of honey-gold flowers that bring electric light to fading borders. Choose Green Promise Farms Fireworks Goldenrod Plants, available from Walmart, for an award-winning bargain that will establish quickly to service this season's late-visiting pollinators. Its heavy, sticky pollen is carried by beneficial insects rather than the wind.

Extremely hardy in zones 2-8, goldenrod is virtually indestructible once established. It handles full sun, average-to-poor soil, and drought conditions with ease. Modern cultivars stay neatly behaved: look for Fireworks for golden explosions, or Golden Fleece for low, edging groundcover growth. Just avoid overly rich, nitrogen-heavy soils, which can cause the stems to become floppy. Combine its brilliant yellow plumes with deep purple aster varieties or dark blue salvias for classic contrast.

3. Plumbago

Plumbago (aka blue leadwood) is the ultimate groundcover for fall drama. Blue leadwood (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides) is a gorgeous double hitter for color, with vivacious red or bronze fall foliage as well as lush sapphire flowers. Growing just 8-12 inches (20-30cm) tall, this spreading dwarf shrub carpet produces intense, gentian-blue flowers from late August into November. To bring jewel-like color to gloomy parts of your yard, buy Blue Plumbago Plants from Nature Hills for luminescent blooms in the shade.

Hardy in zones 5-9, plumbago excels in full sun to partial shade, though morning sun with light afternoon shade yields the richest foliage tones. Excellent drainage is essential, as these plants don’t like waterlogged winter soil. Plumbago is especially pretty along garden edges, rockeries, and retaining walls. Don't worry if it emerges late: it often saves its best energy for a dazzling late-fall showing. Pair it with yellow-flowering bulbs or emerging colchicum for a sensational low-growing display.

4. Gaura

For one of the most magical names in this roundup, meet whirling butterflies, more commonly known as gaura. Bringing an airy, magical texture to October borders, Gaura is a joy to grow in late fall. Rising on wand-like stems 2-4 feet (60-120 cm) high, its delicate pink and white blooms dance in breezes until the first frost. It creates an ethereal display that breathes continuous movement into quiet beds. Buy Gaudi Rose Gaura Starter Plants from Amazon for lush sprays of hot pink blooms.

Hardy in zones 5-9, gaura (Oenothera lindheimeri) loves full sun and lean, sharply draining soil. Thanks to a long, deep taproot, it has exceptional heat and drought tolerance once settled. Key varieties like Siskiyou Pink bloom for months on end. Just avoid heavy clay soils that retain winter water, and avoid hard spring pruning until new growth shows. Interplant this beauty with ornamental grasses like Pennisetum or dark-leaved heuchera for effortless elegance.

5. Toad Lily

When a lot of other flowering stalwarts are finally fading in shade gardens, the toad lily (Tricyrtis hirta) adds breathtaking elegance. From September to November, its arching stems bear intricate, star-shaped, orchid-like flowers, heavily speckled in shades of amethyst, magenta, and creamy white. Growing 2-3 feet (60-90 cm) tall, these exotic flowers reward close inspection, making them a must-have for pathway edges and courtyard borders. You can buy Emerald Goddess Garden Store Toad Lily Live Plants from Amazon if you hurry for unique color in the gloom.

Hardy in zones 4-8, toad lilies require partial to full shade and rich, organic soil that remains consistently moist but drains well. Standout varieties include Miyazaki for cascading speckled blooms or Empress for larger individual flowers. Top-dress with rich leaf mold or compost each year, to mimic their native habitat. Most shady flowers bloom in spring, so this is a memorable perennial for fall color in shade gardens. Plant them along edges, where their delicate blooms won’t be missed.

6. Hesperantha

Hesperantha (formerly Schizostylis) is unmissable, yet often gets overlooked in fall flower roundups. This vivacious South African native pushes up gladiolus-like spikes of bowl-shaped flowers in saturated shades of scarlet, crimson, and salmon pink. Blooming through October and November, it brings an astonishing flush of tropical color right when frost threatens. For satisfying salmon pink blooms ready for late season planting, choose Sunrise Hesperantha Starter Plants from Amazon.

Hardy in zones 7-9 (and easily overwintered in zone 6 with mulch), Hesperantha coccinea reaches 18-24 inches (45–60 cm) tall and multiplies into lush clumps. It just demands full sun and rich soil during the growing season. Popular varieties like hot red Major or Mrs. Hegarty'(satin pink) make outstanding, long-lasting cut flowers. Pair this sassy late season bloomer with silver foliage like stachys or blue-toned ornamental grasses for dramatic color pop.

7. Japanese Anemone

Some of you may already be familiar with the delights of this elegant beauty, especially if you have shady spaces that need a bit of sparkle. Japanese anemones (Anemone × hybrida) bring effortless grace to late-season borders. Held on slender 3-4-foot (90-120 cm) stems above lush grape-like foliage, their single or double flowers sway gently from August through November. The gold central stamens provide a stunning focal point to these ethereal flowers. For the ultimate dancing bright white blooms, buy Whirlwind Japanese Anemone Plants from Plant Addicts.

Hardy in zones 4-8, they flourish in partial shade to morning sun in rich, moist, well-draining soil. Cultivars like crisp white Honorine Jobert (pictured) or dark pink September Charm are famous for long bloom windows. Be patient after planting: they grow modestly in their first year, but spread happily once settled. Mulch well in winter to protect young crowns, and try grouping with toad lilies, autumn ferns, and hellebores for a multi-season shade border.

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I hate to admit it, but I’m getting a little jealous of my neighbors’ gardens... and it’s all down to one flower that looks like it’s been having an absolute blast as we veer headfirst into the ‘ber months.

All summer long, I’ve watched them fill up with the usual stars of the season – roses, hydrangeas, lavender, dahlias, and all those other perennial flowers that make a garden look incredible when everything is growing at full speed. My own garden has done its best to keep up, but... well, then fall arrived, and something rather unexpected happened.

Some of those gardens actually started looking better, and as far as I can tell, it’s all down to one flower (a late-season hero, no less) that everyone but me seems to have planted in abundance.

Why This One Flower Is Key to a Beautiful Fall Garden

Yes, it seems as if Japanese anemones are the 'it' flower of the season, as I’ve started noticing them everywhere in my neighborhood. One garden has them spilling over a low wall, another has a whole mass of them towards the back of the border, and another seems to have an almost ridiculous number of flowers swaying above everything else.

Honestly, every time I walk past, I have pretty much the same thought: I really need some of those, whether it's a traditional Honorine Jobert Japanese Anemone, a bright and bold Fantasy™ Red Riding Hood Japanese Anemone, or a sweet and cold-hardy Fall in Love® Sweetly Japanese Anemone.

Part of the appeal of this one flower, I think, is the timing of it all; by the time Japanese anemones are putting on their best display, a lot of the flowers that made the garden feel so abundant in June and July are starting to fade. These, however, seem completely unfazed by the fact that summer is disappearing.

Depending on the variety and growing conditions, they can flower from late summer well into fall, with many continuing into October (depending on your USDA planting zone). So just when the garden might otherwise start looking a little tired, you suddenly have these tall stems covered in fresh flowers.

And when you see them growing in a group, they can make a surprisingly big impact, especially as they can begin flowering in late summer and continue through fall, depending on the cultivar and conditions.

If you want to add one flower to your garden that will do its bit for pollinators, the Japanese anemone is a good shout; their open blooms can provide food for bees and other visiting insects, and their late flowering period is particularly useful because there are generally fewer flowers available in the garden as the season progresses.

Honestly, if I’m going to give something valuable garden space, I like the idea that it can earn its keep in more than one way. And a plant that gives me a beautiful display in September and October while also offering something to visiting bees, butterflies, and other critters? That ticks a lot of boxes for me!

Still, it's worth thinking about whether your garden is suited to this flower before you rush to buy one of your own; Japanese anemones generally prefer a sunny or partially shaded position and reasonably fertile soil that doesn’t dry out completely. They can also (fair warning) spread, particularly when they’re happy, and established plants can eventually stage something of a takeover.

Now, that can be a very good thing if you have the space and want that abundant effect (part of the reason I keep noticing them in my neighbors’ gardens is that they don’t look like one lonely plant that has been carefully tucked into a gap), but it’s worth thinking about before planting one right next to a delicate little perennial that you’re particularly fond of.

For a long time, I thought of the gardening year as having a fairly obvious hierarchy; spring was exciting because everything was waking up. Summer was the main event, when the garden was overflowing with flowers and everything seemed to be growing at once. Then fall arrived and the whole thing gradually started winding down.

Now, when I walk past my neighbors’ gardens in September or October and see that everyone has one flower covered in blooms, I see a garden having one last really good moment before winter arrives... and yes, I’m jealous. So you'd best believe that I’m going to stop admiring everyone else’s Japanese anemones and finally plant some of my own. I bet I spend all of next fall wondering why I waited so long.

Most gardeners will tell you that, come October, the summer blooms are fading, the leaves are starting to change, and the garden can feel like it’s getting ready for winter. Still, there are plenty of flowers putting on a show... and they’re doing something even more important than brightening up our yards.

Fall-blooming flowers are undeniably beautiful, but they can also provide a valuable source of food for bees, butterflies and other pollinators at a time when fewer flowers are available. For me, that's brilliant news, as I’ve always thought of my garden as more than just a place to grow pretty plants; it’s also a tiny patch of habitat, and choosing flowers that provide nectar and pollen can make that patch a little more useful to the wildlife passing through.

As recent headlines have made all too clear, pollinators face a range of pressures, from habitat loss and pesticide use to climate and weather changes, resulting in some bee species being declared endangered. And, while none of us can solve those problems from our backyard, a few well-chosen plants can turn an ordinary flower bed into a much busier place.

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Fall is a particularly good time to think about helping the (humming)birds and the bees, and all it takes is a few late-season flowers that keep on going for as long as the weather allows.

So, if you’re looking for flowers that can keep your garden colorful into October (while giving pollinators a reason to stop by), these are seven I’d put at the top of the list. Bloom times will vary depending on the variety and where you live, but all are worth considering for a fall-friendly garden.

1. Japanese Anemone

Japanese anemones are one of my favorite ways to add a little elegance to a fall garden, as their delicate-looking pink or white flowers can continue blooming well into October.

They’re especially useful to pollinators because their open flowers make it relatively easy for bees and other insects to reach the pollen and nectar, and I particularly like them planted toward the back of a border, where their tall stems can rise above shorter perennials.

Look for Japanese anemone cultivars suited to your USDA growing zone, as flowering time can vary with climate (although, personally, I love this September Charm Japanese Anemone from Nature Hills). Give them a spot with good light and reasonably well-drained soil, and they can become a reliable part of the late-season garden.

2. Asters

If I had to choose one group of flowers to represent the late-season pollinator garden, asters would be near the top of my list. Their daisy-like flowers can bring a splash of purple, pink, blue or white to your garden come October, when many other plants are fading.

These little beauties are especially valuable in fall because bees and butterflies are still looking for food, while the number of flowering plants available to them is beginning to shrink. And, unsurprisingly, native asters are particularly worthwhile if supporting local wildlife is one of your gardening goals.

Of course, there are many different aster varieties and cultivars available, so check the expected bloom time and mature size before planting. In the right spot, they can provide a spectacular late-season display (especially if you pick something like the vibrant Grape Crush New England Aster from Nature Hills).

3. Goldenrod

Goldenrod (which just so happens to be the birth month native flower for November babies everywhere, if you're wondering!) is one of those plants I think deserves a much better reputation. Its clouds of yellow flowers are practically synonymous with fall, and they can be absolutely covered in visiting insects when they’re in bloom.

Despite its reputation, goldenrod isn't the main culprit behind fall hay fever — ragweed is much more commonly responsible for those airborne allergies. Goldenrod, meanwhile, is an important source of nectar and pollen for a wide variety of insects.

Native goldenrod species are especially valuable for wildlife. If you have the space for one, it can turn an otherwise quiet corner of the garden into a buzzing little feeding station in late summer and fall (not to mention some eye-popping majesty if you go for something like Fireworks Goldenrod).

4. Zinnias

Zinnias are one of my favorite choices when I want maximum color with relatively little fuss, as they come in an almost ridiculous range of colors and flower shapes. Better still, with regular deadheading, many varieties will continue producing flowers well into fall.

They’re also a favorite with butterflies. On a warm October day, it’s not unusual to see butterflies moving from one zinnia flower to the next, while bees make use of the blooms too. Plant something like Burpee's Zesty Mix Zinnia Seeds & Plants in a sunny spot, keep picking or deadheading the flowers, and they can help keep the garden colorful until frost puts an end to the show.

5. Sedum

Autumn-blooming sedums are another plant I wouldn’t want to be without. Their dense clusters of tiny flowers open just when the garden is beginning to lose some of its summer color, and the blooms can attract plenty of bees and butterflies.

One of the things I like most about sedum is how easy it is to work into a garden; honestly, it’s generally drought tolerant once established, and the upright varieties add structure as well as late-season color.

Look for autumn-flowering types such as 'Autumn Joy' (available at Nature Hills) and similar cultivars. Their flower heads can start out pale and gradually deepen in color, giving the plant a long season of interest even before winter arrives. Plus, who doesn't love that extra-terrestrial vibe of theirs for added texture and fun, eh?

6. Black-Eyed Susan

Black-eyed Susans bring a cheerful burst of yellow to the late-summer and fall garden, which has made them somewhat synonymous with October. Their daisy-like flowers, centered around a dark brown cone, are instantly recognizable and work beautifully in informal borders and pollinator gardens.

Depending on the species and cultivar, they can bloom from summer into fall, making them useful for extending the flowering season. Bees and butterflies are among the visitors they can attract, while their seed heads can provide food for birds later in the year.

For the longest possible display, remove spent flowers regularly. If you leave some seed heads standing, though, you can trade a little tidiness for additional wildlife value later in the season. And, if you plump for something like Prairie Glow Black-Eyed Susan from Nature Hills, you get bicolored blooms that make people stop and take notice.

7. Mexican Bush Sage

Mexican bush sage is a particularly good choice for gardeners in warmer parts of the U.S, as its velvety foliage and spikes of purple-and-white flowers can provide a spectacular late-season display, with flowering often continuing into October.

The tubular flowers are attractive to bees, butterflies and other nectar-seeking insects, and the plant can be especially useful when other flowers are beginning to disappear. That being said, it's worth noting that Mexican bush sage isn't hardy everywhere in the country. In colder climates, it's often grown as an annual or overwintered indoors, while gardeners in warmer zones can enjoy it as a perennial.

If your climate allows it,, it's a beautiful way to keep the fall garden buzzing. And it's easily done, too, as you can buy Mexican Sage Salvia Live Plants from Walmart.

And just like that, you have some serious MVP plants for a pollinator-friendly garden in October. Time to get planting, then...

Early October is peak flowering time for most dahlias, and the right care now will influence not just how many more blooms you enjoy into fall, but the health of their tubers you’ll soon be digging up to store over winter. Dahlias thrive during this season’s warm days and cool nights, and will reward you with spectacular and abundant blooms. But if you want to enjoy the same dazzling show next year, you need to strike a balance between pushing for more flowers and prepping those tubers for storage. So, if you're wondering what dahlias need in October, balanced care is critical.

Fall dahlia care also depends heavily on your growing region and climate but for most gardeners, early October should bring a focus on cleaning up plants, preventing new green growth, supporting tall stems, and monitoring and managing pests and diseases. Get it right and you’ll get plenty more blooms as well as plump tubers full of energy that’ll overwinter well, ready for a repeat performance next year.

Ready? Let’s dive into what to do with dahlias in October.

1. Keep Watering, But Don’t Overdo It

Part of the fall balance for dahlias is irrigation levels. While plants are still putting out impressive blooms, they’ll be using plenty of water, but their tubers are also preparing to toughen up for winter – and too much moisture means those roots get soft and won't store well. Add rainfall into the mix and there’s even more to consider, especially if you're growing dahlias in containers.

The best guideline is to water your dahlias if it doesn’t rain, once the soil has dried out. But then water deeply. A rain gauge such as this pretty precipitation gauge stake from Amazon is a really simple but effective way to keep an eye on how much rainfall your plants are getting, so you can water accordingly. Irrigate at soil level, never over the plants, and try to avoid getting foliage and stems too wet.

As October proceeds, gradually cut back on how much water you provide so the tubers start to toughen their skins.

2. Deadhead Flowers

As long as you keep removing spent blooms, you’ll direct the plant’s energy into growing more blooms rather than seed production. To deadhead dahlias, cut the faded flower stem back to the next branching point. Of course, you don’t need to wait for the petals to fade before cutting, as now you can be enjoying cut flowers as your reward for all your hard work. Snipping freshly opened blooms will also encourage plants to continue producing more.

With some dahlia varieties, the spent flowers look very similar to new buds. If you're not sure which is which, give it a gentle squeeze: fresh about-to-open buds will feel firm to the touch while spent blooms will feel a little mushy.

Of course, if you plant to collect seeds, leave some of the flowers in place.

3. Support Stems if Needed

All these heavy blooms can start to weigh down the stems, especially if you're growing dinnerplate dahlias, and it’s common to see plants splay at this time of the year. If you don’t already have them in place, add stakes to help top-heavy stems stay upright. Not only do vertical stems look better, broken stems can create wounds that are vulnerable to disease.

Bamboo canes will do the job just fine, but make sure you buy poles that are long enough, like these reusable 5' support stakes from Walmart, as you’ll need to push a quarter of the length into the ground. Tie individual stems into the stakes using soft twist ties such as these from Amazon that won’t cut into the plant material, or simply fashion a cradle around the whole plant with canes and twine.

If you do have supports in place, check them and make adjustments as needed, especially after heavy rain or windy weather.

4. Watch Out for Pests and Disease

As part of regular maintenance, you should be looking out for signs of pest infestations or diseases taking root in your dahlias. Do this throughout the growing season, but especially now, as you want your plants to stay healthy as they build up energy and tough, healthy tubers for winter storage.

Some of the typical pests you’re looking for in October include spider mites and aphids, both of which feed on dahlias. Pests are less of a concern this time of year as growth is wrapping up anyway, but it’s still worth removing them with a spray of water or use an organic neem oil spray such as Bonide Captain Jack’s Neem Oil, available from Lowe’s, to keep your plants looking tidy for the rest of the season.

Increasing rain and lower temperatures in fall can increase the prevalence of powdery mildew and leaf spot. While there’s no need to worry, if you spot a white dust-like coating to leaves, it’s best to remove them to reduce the amount of infected plant matter in your garden beds. A collapsible waste bag like Fiskars 10-Gallon Yard Waste Bag, available from Amazon, makes it easy to transport them straight to the trash, as you don’t want these fungal spores in your compost bin.

5. Gradually Stop Fertilizing

Feeding dahlias as we head deeper into fall pushes the plant to make new growth rather than harden off its tubers ready for storage. Particularly, avoid the temptation to use up any high-nitrogen fertilizer which promotes leafy growth. If you're gardening in a warmer zone and still feeding to promote flowering, make sure the fertilizer is designed specifically for that job. Look for a low- or zero-nitrogen feed such as TPS Flower Fertilizer, available from Amazon, that’s rated 0-10-10 or 5-10-10 – the first number indicates nitrogen levels, so this must be lower than the second two numbers that indicate potassium and phosphorus.

Aim to stop fertilizing completely 4-6 weeks before your first expected frost date, to give your plant time to mature its tubers.

6. Prepare for the First Hard Frost

If You Garden in a Cold Zone

In zones 7 and below, you’ll need to dig up and store your dahlia tubers over the winter. Depending on the zone you garden in, your first frost could hit in October, so make sure you’ve got everything ready. Coco coir such as this from Walmart in a cardboard box makes for cheap and effective storage.

Always wait until the first good frost has killed the stems above the ground, as this triggers the plant to send a rush of sugars and starches down into the tubers. Not only does this mean lots of energy stored for next year, it tells the plant to enter dormancy and mature the tubers, when they’ll store better.

It’s best to leave tubers in the ground to rest for 1-2 weeks after this frost to allow this process, unless you suspect the soil will freeze, when tubers will die, or rainfall is heavy and incessant, when roots may start to rot.

If You Garden in a Warm Zone

If you live in the warmer climates of zones 8-11, you can safely leave dahlia tubers in the ground as long as you have well-draining soil. If you have a frost, wait a week or two to allow the energy transfer into the tubers then cut stems down to around 3-4 inches and pile a 5-inch layer of mulch such as Back to the Roots Organic Mulch, available from The Home Depot, over the soil to act as a cozy duvet.

In frost-free zones, cut stems by mid-December at the latest to ensure plants rest, and there’s no need to mulch.

As you look ahead, adjust your plans to the weather as temperatures and rainfall can vary widely in fall. Keep enjoying those spectacular October blooms but remember you need to start caring for the tubers, too, if you want next summer's display to be equally stunning.

Stock Up On Showstopper Varieties

October is a great month to buy dahlia tubers as you'll be able to find more unusual varieties and dahlia types that are usually snapped up months before the first hint of spring. Most specialist dahlia retailers open for pre-orders in October then send tubers out in spring, though it's fine to physically buy tubers now as you can safely store them for spring planting.
Take a look at Dutch Grown's impressive dahlia collection of over 150 cultivars for inspiration, and here are just a few varieties new for 2027 to give you a taste of the incredible flower shapes and color combos now available.

October is a good time to shift geranium care from promoting summer growth to preparing for cooler weather. Depending on where you garden, your geraniums may still be blooming heavily, but eventually these tender flowers will face winter, and you'll need to do some prep work.

It’s important to note that geranium care depends on the type you’re growing. The term geranium usually refers to a tender perennial most gardeners grow as annuals, known as Pelargonium. True geraniums are different and are hardier perennials often called cranesbill. Here, we’ll cover essential fall care for Pelargoniums, with a few notes on true geraniums.

1. Deadhead and Trim Lightly

To encourage blooms for as long as possible, keep deadheading your geraniums. Cut the entire faded flower stalk back to where it meets the main stem using a pair of sharp bypass pruners, such as these Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Amazon, to make clean cuts without crushing the stems. Eventually, the plants will slow and stop blooming naturally as the weather cools. This is normal.

It’s also a good idea to trim back any damaged or yellow foliage. Keep an eye out for signs of fungus or mold and remove and dispose of any leaves that look infected. Especially if you’re bringing plants indoors for winter, diseased and damaged foliage will persist and cause issues if you don’t remove it now.

If you have hardy geraniums, you can do a tidying trim, but they don’t need a heavy trim now or much deadheading.

2. Cut Back on Fertilizer

Tender geraniums benefit from regular feedings throughout the summer. Bloom-boosting products, like Scotts Super Super Bloom, keep them flowering well into fall, but by October it's time to stop feeding in most areas. Too much fertilizer can trigger fresh, green growth at a time when the plant should be slowing down and preparing for winter. True geraniums generally don't need fertilizer in fall.

3. Adjust Your Watering Schedule

You can also cut back on watering this time of year, but don’t let your plants dry out too much. This adjustment is based on need, not a complete stop to watering. Cooler temperatures and shorter days usually mean the soil stays moist for longer, so you may not need to water as often.

If it isn't raining, check the soil and water when the top inch (2.5 cm) feels dry. Use a moisture meter if you don't trust the finger test – the Yamron 4-in-1 Soil Moisture Meter, available on Amazon, also checks soil pH, temperature, and sunlight intensity.

If you’re moving geraniums indoors for winter, taper off watering before you move them. Hardy geraniums don’t need much water, especially if they are well established. Water only if you have drought conditions or excessive heat.

4. Take Cuttings

Even if you plan to keep Pelargoniums indoors for winter, early to mid-fall is a good time to propagate geraniums from cuttings. Not all tender geraniums will survive winter indoors, despite your best efforts. Cuttings serve as insurance against this failure, especially if you have favorite plants you want to enjoy again next year.

Choose a healthy-looking, non-flowering stem and use sharp, clean shears to remove four to six inches (10 to 15 cm). Place the cut end in quality potting soil or rooting mix, like this Soil Sunrise Plant Propagation Potting Mix. Place it in a spot with bright but indirect sunlight and warmth. Keep the medium moist but not soggy as the roots grow.

Hardy geraniums are best propagated by root division. Fall is a good time to do this. Carefully dig up the plant, separate a clump of roots that has plenty of healthy growth, and replant it right away. Water it as it gets established.

5. Shelter Tender Geraniums

While you can always let your tender geraniums go as temperatures drop, a little protection can help you enjoy them longer if they're still flowering. Move potted plants to a sheltered location that protects them from wind, or to a spot that’s sunnier throughout the day.

Use plant covers, like this frost blanket from Amazon, or even an old sheet or burlap to cover tender geraniums overnight as temperatures drop. If daytime temperatures still support them, this can help you get a few more flowers and more enjoyment from your plants.

6. Bring Tender Geraniums Indoors

Many people treat geraniums as true annuals, disposing of them at the end of the season. They are perennials only in very warm areas, generally USDA zones 10 and higher, so they won’t survive winter outdoors in most places. As an alternative to letting them go, you can bring potted geraniums indoors to overwinter. True geraniums are usually hardy from zones 3 through 8, so they’re fine in winter in most areas.

Bring your potted plants inside before overnight temperatures regularly fall below 45–50°F (7–10°C), or before the first frost if that comes sooner. Trim back about one-third of the foliage and place the plant in a bright spot but away from cold drafts or vents. Always check for pests before bringing any plants indoors. Look along stems and on the undersides of leaves and remove all pests to avoid contaminating houseplants.

If you find signs of pests, spray plants with an organic neem oil product, such as Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Oil spray from Amazon, before bringing them indoors, making sure to coat both the upper and lower surfaces of the leaves. Allow the foliage to dry completely before moving the plant inside.

Fall Geranium Care Essentials

Fall care for geraniums has two main purposes: helping you enjoy the flowers for as long as possible and preparing plants you want to save for winter storage. While you can simply let your annuals fade into winter, a little extra care extends the bloom time and even allows you to keep plants for next year. And if you grow hardy geraniums, you're in luck. Fall care needs are low, and they should be back next year.

Some flower seeds do far better when sown in fall, so you can simply scatter them onto bare soil now and – hey presto! – they’ll transform into abundant blooms by next year. This is one of nature’s finest magic tricks and you really should take advantage, because there is no easier or cheaper way to fill your yard with blooms than these flower seeds to sow in fall.

All these plants are self-seeders so they don’t need any molly-coddling from you. Sow them in October and all the work is naturally done for you. Some of the seeds require a period of cold – called cold stratification – to germinate; for others, the freeze-thaw cycle cracks tough outer shells. Triggered by warming weather and lengthening days in spring, they’ll sprout at the perfect point, and rain will keep the seedlings watered. Some are even tough enough to sprout in fall and survive winter unscathed.

These seeds all like a little light to germinate, too, so you don’t even have to rake them into the ground. And the reward for your minimal efforts? Bigger, stronger plants than if you’d sown the exact same seeds in spring, for lots more flowers. So, if you're wondering what to sow in October and fancy a garden that almost takes care of itself, start right here. If you’ve already got any of these beauties in your garden, now’s the time to snap off a seedhead and shake it wherever you fancy having more growing, too.

1. Annual Poppies

Annual corn poppies (Papaver rhoeas) and opium or breadseed poppies (Papaver somniferum) both thrive with a fall sowing and are some of the prettiest plants that practically grow by themselves. They need a period of cold to germinate so you can pop the seed into the fridge for a few weeks – or do it the easy way and let winter work its magic! Scatter the tiny seeds in full sun after the first hard frost in zones 6-9, and you’re done.

Eden Brothers stocks a super selection: Papaver somniferum ‘Lauren’s Grape’ packs a punch with prolific plum-toned flowers, while Papaver rhoeas ‘Amazing Grey’ has crinkly petals in lilac and grey shades, and is much coveted as a cut flower. Or for a lovely addition of color running through a border, ‘Angels Choir Poppy Mix’ is a wonderful mish-mash of warm-hued varieties.

2. Love-in-a-Mist

Nigella hates having its roots disturbed so is always best direct-sown where you want it to grow, and a fall sowing brings stronger, taller plants that bloom weeks ahead of seeds cast in spring. In zones 7-9, go ahead and scatter seed now as seedlings will endure temperatures down to 23°F (-5°C), or wait till winter is here in zone 6 to ensure spring germination.

For a fall sowing, steer clear of common Nigella damascena unless you have fast-draining soil as the seedlings won’t tolerate sitting in cold wet ground. Instead, choose Nigella papillosa, which is far more robust. Love-in-a-mist ‘Delft Blue’, available from Botanical Interests, has rich violet-blue hues on white petals, reminiscent of the famous blue-and-white pottery it’s named after. Love-in-a-mist ‘African Bride’, also available from Botanical Interests and a similarly tough cookie perfect for fall sowing, is just as beautiful and produces incredible lantern-like seedpods once flowers have faded.

3. Bachelor’s Button

Cornflowers are one of the easiest of all flowers to sow from a fall scattering in zones 8-10, yet you can pay an absolute fortune for the dried petals to use as herbal tea or confetti. Centaurea cyanus do prefer a little darkness to germinate well, so it’s best to quickly rake over the soil to cover them lightly.

Plain ol’ blue cornflowers, available from Amazon, are beautiful in their own right but if you like to bring flowers inside for vases, then try a tall blend of mixed color bachelor’s buttons, available from Botanical Interests. If sultry colors are more of a border fit for your garden, then ‘Black Magic’ cornflowers, also available from Botanical Interests is a tried and tested favorite.

4. Sweet Alyssum

Steal a trick from cottage-gardeners and scatter Lobularia maritima seeds in fall in zones 7-11, and a fragrant low carpet of flowers will magically appear in spring. They're such easy flowers to grow from seed and are one of the best flowering groundcover plants, so it's a wonder this quick fall task isn't standard practice in all gardens! Sweet alyssum seeds need light to germinate and young plants cope with repeated light frosts, overwintering as small rosettes, ready to bloom weeks ahead of spring-sown seeds. The sweet honey-like perfume of the flowers is a delightful addition to those first warm days of the year.

‘Royal Carpet’ sweet alyssum, available from Walmart, brings a tapestry of white, lilac and purple flowers, while ‘Sweet White’ sweet alyssum, available from Lowe’s, does exactly what it says on the tin.

5. Purple Coneflower

Echinacea purpurea are perennials that need a cold period to germinate, so grow well from a fall sowing in zones 3-9. Although purple coneflower seeds benefit from light to sprout, it’s customary to cover them with a light dusting of soil simply to deter birds from snaffling up what is one of their favorite snacks. The other alternative, of course, is just to fling plenty of seeds into your border, and seeds of this native wildflower are cheap to buy, such as this bumper pack of purple coneflower seeds from Amazon.

Wait till after the first frost before sowing in zones 3-4, to guard against premature germination in any unseasonably warm fall weather. In zones 8-9, choose a spot with excellent drainage – a raised bed is ideal – to avoid seeds rotting over winter.

6. California Poppy

Such is their will to live, you can simply toss the tiny seeds of Eschscholzia californica onto bare earth in zones 8-10 in fall and the seedlings will survive to bloom early next year. Choose a sunny spot to surface-sow your California poppy seeds and let fall rain do the rest.

Take a look at Eden Brothers’ California poppy range for inspiration. As well as the classic orange of California’s state flower, there are all sorts of varieties such as Thai Silk Pink Champagne California poppy and Appleblossom Chiffon California poppy with petals as fabulous as their names suggest.

7. Bells of Ireland

As they need both light and a period of cold to germinate, you can steal a head start on growing Bells of Ireland (Moluccella laevis) in zones 6-9 with a fall sowing. Their tough seeds will sit dormant through the winter cold, then germinate as soon as it’s warm enough in spring. In zones 8 and warmer, go ahead and sow now; in colder zones though, wait till right after your first frost before sowing, so seeds don’t sprout prematurely.

These stately spires of flowers are a must for any garden, growing to a neat 2-3 feet tall and adding unusual texture as well as a fresh pop of green. The flowers last well in a vase so these are a fabulous addition to bouquets, if you like to grow cut flowers from seed for blooms all summer long. For a reliable fall sowing, bells of Ireland seeds are available from Eden Brothers.

8. Columbine

Aquilegia benefit from winter stratification and they need light to germinate, making them one of the best flower seeds to sow in fall in zones 3-9. These direct-sow seeds also appreciate starting life out where they will grow. You’ll need to be a little patient, however, as columbine is a perennial that spends its first year concentrating on roots and pretty foliage, but boy, is the yearly spring show of flowers after that worth the wait. Fling and forget columbine seeds this October and be surprised by the flurry of cottage-garden blooms in their second year.

There’s a huge range of columbines to choose from, from the dainty blue Aquilegia caerulea, available from Amazon, to the mighty Aquilegia cultorum columbines, stocked by Botanical Interests, bred for their large flowers and color variety. In zones 8-9 with mild winters, toss the seed packet in your fridge for a couple of weeks before sowing, to make sure they get the cold they need to sprout.

Tips for a Successful Fall Sowing

All these seeds naturally self-seed so all you need do is mimic nature and plants will grow well from a fall sowing with minimum intervention. A few simple prep steps, however, will help to ensure good germination.

• If you can, rake the soil before sowing to break up any clumps and form a fine ‘tilth’. This ensures seeds have good contact with the soil and makes it easy for young roots to penetrate the ground.
• Water the soil before sowing if it hasn’t rained recently. Sowing onto moist soil means there’s no need to water straight after sowing, which can wash small seeds away.
• Read the sowing instructions on the seed packet carefully to see exactly how much light the seeds need to germinate. All these seeds will germinate from a surface sowing but some will benefit from being lightly raked into the soil.
• Some seed is so tiny that it’s very hard to see where you’ve sown. Mix seed with fine sand first, so you can see where it's landed so spread it more evenly.

There's no easier or cheaper way to fill borders with blooms than to scatter these seeds in fall, then look forward to flowers popping up here, there and everywhere. Once you've got these self-reliant beauties growing in your yard, you can easily collect seeds to distribute around your garden for yet more blooms, too.

Add in flower seeds to fling and forget in spring and you have yourself a garden full of flowers that practically grow themselves.

Who knew there were perennials to avoid planting?

I know, I know; fall is an undeniably great time to get these comeback kids in the ground, as the weather is cooler, the garden centers are still full of tempting plants, and your new plant baby has the whole dormant season ahead to settle in.

If you are off to do a spot of fall perennial shopping, though, try to remember this: just because a plant is sitting happily on a garden center bench, it doesn't necessarily mean you should take it home. In fact, there is a long list of perennials to avoid for those who don't want to give themselves a gardening-induced headache later on down the line.

7 Perennials To Avoid Planting This Fall

Why? Well, some perennials are a little too good at spreading. Others can escape the garden and cause problems in natural areas. A few, too, are simply much more difficult to control than their innocent-looking containers would have you believe. And that's particularly easy to forget when a plant is being sold as an attractive, pollinator-friendly or low-maintenance addition to the garden.

Now, I'm not suggesting that every plant on this list of perennials to avoid planting is universally terrible, or that you can never grow any of them. Indeed, in some parts of the US, certain species are perfectly manageable or even considered useful garden plants.

With that caveat in place, then, these are seven plants I'd personally research very carefully before putting them in the ground...

1. Butterfly Bush

Butterfly bush is almost comically easy to sell to gardeners; it has beautiful flower clusters, attracts butterflies (including, likely, your birth month butterfly), grows quickly, and gives you exactly the sort of summer-long color that makes you feel you've made an excellent garden decision.

The problem is that butterfly bush (Buddleja davidii) is non-native to the US and can become invasive in some regions, escaping cultivation and establishing in natural areas. There's another reason to think twice if you're planting specifically for butterflies, too, as butterfly bush might provide nectar for adult butterflies, but it isn't a host plant for their caterpillars.

That means there are often better choices for a wildlife-friendly garden. Try looking for native plants suited to your region, such as this swamp milkweed from Nature Hills, native asters, coneflowers, hyssop, and bee balm.

Make A Butterfly-Friendly Garden:

2. Periwinkle

Periwinkle is one of those plants that can look almost too well-behaved to cause trouble; its glossy evergreen leaves make an attractive groundcover, and its small blue-purple flowers are particularly useful if you're trying to cover a shady area where not much else wants to grow.

Unsurprisingly for seasoned gardeners everywhere, though, that's precisely part of the problem. Yes, periwinkle (Vinca minor) can spread beyond the area where it was planted, forming dense groundcover that can crowd out other vegetation. And once a groundcover has settled in and started creeping underneath shrubs, through borders and beyond garden edges, removing every piece can become considerably less fun than planting it was.

3. Mint

Now, before anyone sends me an angry email: I am absolutely not saying you shouldn't grow mint (I love mint!). What I am saying, though, is that I would think very carefully before planting it directly into the ground.

Mint is one of those plants that starts out looking wonderfully innocent. You plant a little clump, harvest a few leaves for drinks and cooking, and congratulate yourself on your excellent decision... and then it takes over your borders and you have to explain to your husband what you did when he wasn't looking. (Yes, fine; I speak from experience).

So my rule is simple: mint in a pot? Absolutely. Mint loose in the garden? No, nay, never! Hey, it's a good excuse to bag yourself a pack of four pre-potted mint plants from The Three Company Store, quite honestly.

4. Hops

Hops might seem like an innocent choice for adding height and summer interest to the garden. But if you've ever planted one in the wrong spot, you'll know just how quickly those innocent-looking vines can become a problem.

Common hops (Humulus lupulus) is a perennial, but its fast-growing annual vines can reach impressive heights in a single growing season. The plant also spreads via its perennial crown and rhizomes, making established plants surprisingly difficult to keep contained. And that's where hops can become a headache in a mixed border. Give it a support and it will happily climb; give it a nearby shrub, tree or anything else it can wind around, and it may not be quite so easy to control (just ask my poor lilac!).

That's not to say common hops is invasive everywhere; still, its vigor can make it a poor choice for a small or densely planted garden. Think carefully (and maybe plump for a pollinator-friendly Sweet Autumn Clematis from Nature Hills instead).

5. Lily Of The Valley

Lily of the valley is another plant that can be incredibly tempting in a shady garden; its tiny white bell-shaped flowers are beautiful, fragrant and wonderfully old-fashioned, making it easy to understand why gardeners have been planting it for generations.

That being said (I know, I really do sound like a harbinger of doom), lily of the valley can spread aggressively through underground rhizomes, and it can be difficult to contain once established, making it one of those pesky perennials that can spread unexpectedly.

There's another reason I'd be cautious if you have children or pets: the plant is toxic if eaten. And, while that doesn't automatically mean you need to remove an established plant, it does make me think twice before introducing it to a garden where curious hands or mouths could come into contact with it.

7. Burning Bush

Few shrubs make quite the same impression in fall as burning bush. The foliage turns a brilliant crimson-red, making it incredibly tempting when you're looking for a plant that will give the garden some late-season drama.

The problem? That spectacular fall color comes with a catch, as burning bush is an invasive shrub in parts of the US, where it can escape gardens and spread into natural areas. Its abundant fruits are particularly problematic because birds can eat them and disperse the seeds well beyond the garden.

Still, burning bush has been a popular landscape plant for decades and is frequently used in the gardening industry, even in spite of its invasive behavior is well documented. Instead, why not look for a native shrub that offers brilliant fall color in your region, like red chokeberry, viburnums, dogwoods, or fothergilla?

Shop Fall-Color Shrubs:

All I am really saying is this: before you put that attractive new perennial in your cart, spend five minutes researching how it behaves in your state, because there's nothing quite so satisfying as planting a perennial in fall and watching it return year after year.

Just make sure it's the perennial you actually intended to plant, rather than the one that eventually decides to plant itself everywhere.

October brings an unmissable opportunity to stock up your garden with flowering plants in time for them to grow strong root systems to support abundant blooms next year. While you’ll have to wait a few months for your reward, plants will be far more robust and resilient than if planted in spring, so you can be sure they'll thrive as well as simply survive. Not all plants appreciate a fall planting, however, so here we bring you the very best flowers to plant in fall to fill your yard with plentiful petals for years to come.

Garden centres rely on instant gratification for peak sales in spring and summer. But add a blooming or about-to-bloom plant to your backyard then and it will have to deal with the double stress of producing flowers as well as settling roots into its new home. The more stressed a plant gets, the more it prioritizes blooms over roots; the fewer roots it grows, the less it can fuel this flower growth. So, once the additional stress of summer heat hits, this loop can quickly prove fatal. And we’ve all dug up a dead plant with its root system still in the shape of the pot it was bought in.

Choose flowers to plant in fall, however, and you give them a far better start to life in your yard. The soil is warm and moist enough to allow roots to reach into the ground, where they’ll be able to source nutrients and water. Waking early in spring, plants will get busy growing those roots some more so, when it’s time to flower, they'll have strong systems to support and fuel the blooming process. And while you’ll still need to keep your plant watered, it will cope with the stress of heat and drought far better.

Not only are you protecting your investment – and goodness knows, plants aren’t cheap! – but you’ll often find many popular perennial plants are far cheaper to buy in fall. Here's what to plant in October, for a garden brimming with blooms next year.

1. Peonies

October is the ideal time to plant peonies because the plant will focus on growing roots rather than stems, setting up a robust system for a strong start next spring. Fall is also peak time for harvesting peony bare roots, which is a much cheaper way to buy these beautiful plants. Simply plant the bare root with the eyes (buds) uppermost, no more than 2 inches below the soil surface and water in.

Typically hardy in zones 3-8, peonies are incredibly long-lived plants so are a great garden investment. Dutch Grown has a vast selection of peony varieties to choose from, including many new Itoh peony cultivars (that combine the best features of bush and tree peonies for a longer blooming period) such as Itoh Peony ‘Lollipop’. Or start a full-on love affair with peonies and get great value for money with a value pack of varieties such as this Peony Sweet Caroline Collection, also from Dutch Grown.

2. Azalea

Another favorite on our list of flowers to plant in October is azalea, one of the finest shrubs for a front yard. Fall brings the best conditions for this shrub to make itself at home in your garden, ready for a showstopper display next year. Shorter days trigger the plant to grow roots rather than pushing out new stems, and more evenly moist conditions make it easier for them to get a good hold.

Azaleas have remarkably shallow root systems, making them vulnerable to heat and drought stress, making a fall planting a particularly smart move. Make sure you add a 2-inch layer of mulch over the soil once planted to protect the soil from temperature extremes though, and prevent winter’s freeze-thaw action heaving these shallow roots from the ground. A pine bark mulch such as Timberline All Natural Pine Mulch, available from Lowe’s, gives azaleas the acidic conditions they adore.

For a showstopper azalea, you won’t do better than Autumn Royalty Encore Azalea, available from trees.com (formerly Fast Growing Trees). Despite its name, it's been bred to bloom from spring, all through summer into fall in zones 6-10, rewarding your investment richly with beautifully vibrant flowers month after month.

3. Wisteria

Wisteria needs consistent moisture when first planted to reduce transplant shock, so planting in fall means you’re not spending hours battling quick-drying soil. The plant also directs all its growing efforts underground in fall, so it’ll set up a strong root system far more quickly than if you planted in spring.

These beautiful vines are well-known for taking their time to bloom, too, so buying in fall when they’re usually heavily discounted means you can afford a more mature plant that flowers fast. One of the best perennial plants to plant in fall, once you have added a wisteria to your yard, you can expect it to bloom for decades to come.

Amethyst Falls Wisteria Vine, currently on sale at Nature Hills, is a native American that brings heaps of blooms without the invasive tendencies of asian varieties in zones 5-9. Blue Moon Wisteria, also available from Nature Hills, is another excellent choice as it reblooms up to three times a year for lots more flowers and is particularly hardy, thriving in zones 3-9.

4. Alliums

Alliums are a great asset to any border, and one of the best set-and-forget bulbs to buy in fall. October is the very best time of year to get allium bulbs into the ground and there are varieties that will bring blooms from May all through summer, from the tiny drumsticks of Allium Sphaerocephalon to the spectacularly big spheres of Allium Globemaster, in zones 3-9.

Dutch Grown stocks a super selection at sensible prices. And if you thought all alliums were violet, think again! Dutch Grown’s Allium Tropical Tides Collection features warm-hued pinks and reds, while the Allium Ice and Sky Collection has elegantly cool blue and white hues.

Alliums are such a cheap and easy way to add year-after-year color to your garden, and these are plants that practically grow themselves. Just bury the bulbs, pointed side up, at a depth that’s equal to 2-4 times the height of the bulbs and wait for blooms the following year. If the ground is already damp from fall rain, you don’t even need to bother watering them in.

5. Yarrow

Achillea is an exceptionally resilient plant that deserves a spot in every garden, and quickly establishes itself in the still-warm soil following a fall planting in zones 4-9. As long as the ground isn’t fully frozen, root growth will continue through winter so once warm weather returns, you can expect a burst of fern-like foliage and flat-topped flower clusters, packed with nectar to feed hungry pollinators – far more than if you’d added the plant in spring.

Yarrow likes fast-draining soil so while you should give it a water after planting to settle the soil around its roots, and irrigate if it doesn't rain, natural moisture will typically see this tough-cookie plant through the winter.

Take a look at the New Vintage series if you want long-lasting, fuss-free color in lean soil like that tricky strip of ground alongside your driveway or curb. New Vintage Red Yarrow, available from trees.com boasts ruby-red flowers from early summer through fall, while New Vintage Terracotta Yarrow, also available from trees.com has color-shifting blooms that morph from a vibrant terracotta to champagne-yellow.

Russian Sage

This incredibly drought-tolerant beauty is seeing a huge surge in popularity, thanks to it being one of those showy accent plants that landscape designers love but anyone can grow. Fall is an excellent month to add Perovskia to your garden as without the pressure to produce its beautiful blue flower spikes, the plant will put all its energy into growing a good root system. There is one exception, however: the flip side of this plant's high drought tolerance is that it hates to have its roots sitting in soggy soil – so if you have heavy clay ground that sits wet over the winter, it’s better to wait until spring.

There are all sorts of varieties to choose from but Denim ‘n Lace Russian Sage, available from Plant Addicts is a favorite with landscapers as it brings an exquisite pairing of lavender blooms and lacy, silvery leaves to zones 4-9. If you’re pushed for space, Baby Jean Baby Russian Sage, also available from Plant Addicts, is a compact, neat-growing variety that still delivers abundant blooms in zones 4-8.

Leaving Russian sage stems in place over winter and giving your new plant a gravel mulch to keep the crown dry will help it settle in. Pea gravel like this Landscape Rock from The Home Depot is perfect and the small pebbles will naturally work their way down into the soil to give this plant the fast-draining soil it loves.

Plant all these popular perennials in fall and you’ll have strong, healthy plants for plenty of lush growth and vibrant flowers next year. And we do mean plant them all, because they all deserve a place in every garden! Adding these flowering plants in fall means you’ll cut the time you need to spend watering them next summer (though you will still need to water them some!) and save money to boot. So, if you want a yard with a backbone of plants that reliably bring color, year in, year out, take advantage of this October planting window and steal a head start on summer.

I've said it before and I'll say it again; I love a lavender dupe!

Don't get me wrong; I love lavender, too. It's fragrant, romantic, wonderfully purple and somehow manages to make even the most ordinary garden path feel like it belongs somewhere in Provence. But there's a problem with having a garden full of lavender: eventually, the flowers fade, the stems get a little woody, and you're left waiting for next year's display.

Which is why I've become rather fascinated by the plants that can give us that same cottage garden feeling while keeping the show going for a little longer, whether that's salvia or catmint. And right now, in September, one particularly fragrant lavender dupe is still flowering away across the country while plenty of our summer favorites are beginning to look... well, look really tired.

Meet The Lavender Dupe That Flowers All Fall

I have become increasingly convinced that anise hyssop might just be my favorite lavender dupe of all!

It might sound as though I've wandered into the herb section by mistake, but bear with me. Anise hyssop (available to buy via Nature Hills) is a North American native perennial with upright spikes of purple-blue flowers and wonderfully aromatic foliage.

Despite the misleading name, it isn't actually a true hyssop... and it isn't lavender either. Still, it has enough of that soft, vertical flower-spike effect to make it a very convincing garden dupe. Especially as, much like lavender, it has its own distinct scent (a little like anise or licorice, actually, when you brush against it).

The first thing you'll notice about anise hyssop is the shape; its upright flower spikes look very like lavender, but they tend to to be taller, with the flowers held above aromatic green foliage rather than forming the woody mound we associate with many lavenders.

Where it really earns its place, though, is as a late-season lavender dupe. Depending on the plant and growing conditions, anise hyssop can flower from midsummer into autumn. Indeed, some USDA Zones may find that this one keeps on going until the end of October (especially if you deadhead spent flowers).

As an added bonus, its flowers are attractive to bees, butterflies and other pollinating insects, and hummingbirds can also visit the blooms, making it a must for wildlife gardens. Just give it full sun and well-drained soil; much like actual lavender, you'll find it very tolerant of relatively dry conditions once it's established.

Shop The Best Lavender Dupes:

You'll also want to give this lavender dupe some room, as anise hyssop can reach around 3 to 5 feet tall, depending on conditions and variety; stick it in the middle or back of a border, then, rather than somewhere you're trying to keep everything low and compact.

Look, lavender isn't going anywhere in my garden. It still has that gorgeous scent, that silvery foliage and that unmistakable Mediterranean charm that makes it such a perennial favorite.

That being said... well, anise hyssop gives me the purple flower spikes I love, keeps flowering well into the later part of the season, smells unexpectedly delicious when I brush past it and brings a steady stream of pollinators into the garden when I really don't want the wildlife buffet to close for the year. Who am I to say no to all of that?

We all want low maintenance plants, and those that bloom in the fall are twice as nice. Summer blooming plants are fading fast and our gardens need an autumn revival. Making sure a few perennials are just coming into their own will guarantee a fresh look for fall that lasts till the first hard freeze.

Low maintenance plants generally do not need a lot of water, fertilizer, or trimming. By this time of year, many people’s thoughts are turning to cooler days and fall events. If you don’t want to spend a lot of time tending to your fall garden plants, install some of these beauties in autumn or spring. If planting in fall, be sure they are planted four-to-six weeks before the first hard frost so the roots have time to establish before winter.

These plants boast other attributes, too. They provide nectar for pollinators seeking end of the season sustenance. Migrating monarch butterflies and hummingbirds need energy to power their flights, and bees are collecting what’s left of the nectar and pollen before winter.

1. Bluebeard

Bluebeard (Caryopteris) is a late-summer-to-fall-blooming perennial with vibrant color that attracts butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds. Also called blue mist, it can grow 3 to 13 feet (0.9 to 4 m) tall but usually dies to the ground in colder winter areas of its USDA hardiness zones 5-9. Most hybrid selections stay much shorter. Its fragrant blue, purple, pink, or white flowers grow in clusters around the stems and are a beacon for pollinators but not deer and rabbits.

Foliage is silvery green, yellow, dark, or variegated. Provide good drainage and sandy loam soil in full sun for this drought-tolerant small shrub. ’Blue Empire’ has large violet-blue flowers and tolerates heat and humidity. Another striking and fragrant variety called 'Dark Knight' bluebeard can be found at your local Home Depot. Works well in a border, hedge, xeriscape garden, mass planting or in containers.

2. Tall Sedum

Succulent sedums (Hylotelephium) such as ‘Autumn Joy’ and ‘Autumn Fire’ thrive on neglect. They are pretty much foolproof as long as the soil is well drained. They like hot, dry sites in full sun in USDA hardiness zones 3-9. This perennial pollinator favorite should be a mainstay in every garden for its easy care and long lasting clusters of pink, white, yellow, or red star-shaped flowers that start blooming in late summer and continue through fall.

Leaving the flowers to dry on the stems provides winter interest. Foliage colors vary in gray-green, maroon, bluish, or variegated on 12 to 24 inch (30 to 61 cm) stems. Works well in perennial borders, rock gardens, pollinator gardens, and containers. 'Autumn Joy' sedum is currently on sale from American Meadows and will pair well with ornamental grasses or other perennial plants.

3. Helen's Flower

Helen's flower (Helenium autumnale) is a North American native perennial that blooms in fall with yellow, daisy-like, velvety flowers with domed centers. Also called "sneezeweed," its hybrids give more color choices such as gold, orange, red, copper, and bicolor. Pollinators are frequent visitors, so it is an important late season wildlife plant. It prefers full sun and moist to average soil in USDA hardiness zones 3-9. Clumps reach 2 to 5 feet tall (0.6 to 1.5 m).

Deadhead to increase flowering. Helenium works well in mixed beds and borders, rain gardens, cottage gardens, and meadows. Deer and rabbits avoid its bitter foliage, which can be toxic if eaten in large quantities. Foliage also may irritate the skin of some people. ‘El Dorado’ sports yellow flowers with red streaks. ‘Mardi Gras’ features orange flowers enhanced with yellow and red. ‘Hot Lava’ has orange-red flowers. Cheerful sneezeweed plants can be purchased from Walmart or you local nursery.

4. Russian Sage

Russian sage (Salvia yangii) is an upright, fragrant perennial with tubular, lavender-blue flowers on tall spikes (2 to 4 feet, 0.6 to 1.2 m) that starts blooming in summer and continues through fall. It makes a bold statement in borders, cottage gardens, drought tolerant gardens, or along walkways. Deer and rabbits avoid its silvery foliage due to its pungent scent and bitter taste.

However, it attracts butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds. Native to Asia, grow Russian sage in well-draining soil in full sun in USDA hardiness zones 5-9. Leave the foliage intact over winter, but cut it down to about 12 inches (30 cm) in spring. Recommended cultivars include ‘Blue Spire,’ ‘Denim ‘n Lace,’ and ‘Little Spire,’ a shorter, compact plant. Proven Winners' Denim 'n Lace Russian sage is available from Walmart.

5. New England Aster

Fall-blooming New England asters (Aster novae-angliae) provide color for us and nectar for many insects, as well as seeds for songbirds. Asters also are a host plant for the pearly crescent butterfly. There are so many native plants as well as cultivars to choose from. Asters are perfect for containers, borders, rain gardens, and pollinator gardens.

A popular New England aster variety, ‘Purple Dome,’ has purple flowers and stays about 2 to 3 feet (0.6 to 0.9 m) tall. ‘Grape Crush’ has dark purple flowers and a compact habit, up to 30 inches (76 cm) and blooms a little earlier than ‘Purple Dome.’ Asters are easy to care for in sun to part sun and well-draining, moist soil, and acclimate better if planted in spring in their USDA zones 4-8.

The asters that show up in stores with the potted mums are typically treated as annuals like mums. They put on a colorful show in fall but seldom return the next spring. Brilliant and compact 'Purple Dome' asters can be purchased from Garden Goods Direct and shipped straight to your door (plus they have a sitewide fall sale!)

6. Aromatic Aster

Aromatic aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium) is a type of U.S. native aster that is drought tolerant and very popular with the pollinators. One of the varieties, 'Raydon's Favorite,' doesn’t bloom till late fall but provides oodles of violet-blue daisy-type flowers. Another variety, ‘October Skies,’ blooms a little earlier with light blue daisy-like flowers, providing a succession of blooms for all of autumn if you grow both. ‘October Skies’ stays about 2 feet (0.6 m) tall and ‘Raydon’s Favorite’ about 3 feet (0.9 m) tall.

Plant aromatic aster in full sun and well-drained soil in USDA zones 4-8. If you can’t find them in garden centers and nurseries, they are available from online native plant or wildflower nurseries. You can find 'Rayon's Favorite' and 'October Skies' from Garden Goods Direct.

7. Mexican Sage

If you like salvias, Mexican sage (Salvia leucantha) is a perfect addition for fall color and feeding late season pollinators, especially butterflies and hummingbirds. Hardy in USDA zones 7-11, it produces long spires of velvety purple flowers with white tongues, set off by soft, greenish-silver foliage. Those in colder zones can grow Mexican sage as an annual in containers.

It also works well in pollinator or butterfly gardens, cottage gardens, and in borders. It prefers rich, moist, well-drained soil in full sun, but tolerates some drought once established. Mexican sage grows 2 to 3 feet (0.6 to 0.9 m) tall and wide. Cultivars include ‘All Purple,’ an all purple selection (no white), and ‘Danielle’s Dream,’ with pink and white flowers, and ‘White Mischief,’ an all-white flowered selection. Dwarf selections are also available. A 3-pack of Mexican sage plants can be purchased from Walmart.

There are a lot of reasons to love hellebores. These unusual flowers are prized for their pretty blooms, low maintenance needs and for the fact that they bloom in early spring or even winter in warmer climates. While other plants are preparing to go dormant in September, hellebores are getting ready to grow strong roots and buds.

If you know how to grow hellebores, you know they don’t need a lot of fussing. However, these simple September steps will prepare your plants for the coming growing season and ensure healthy foliage and abundant blooms.

Here’s what your hellebores need in fall to ensure stunning winter blooms.

1. Clean & Tidy Up Plants

Don’t prune hellebore foliage all the way back in fall. Spring, as the new growth is coming in, is a better time to do this. Now is a good time for a light tidy up of faded blooms and problem foliage. Look for and remove any foliage that is damaged or diseased. If you suspect any disease, dispose of the foliage in the trash. Do not compost it.

Clean your tools well after trimming. Content Editor Laura likes to use a disinfectant wipe, like these ones from Walmart, for quick and easy cleaning.

You can also clean up around your hellebore clumps. Lift up the leaves and look for any loose debris to rake up and remove. This will improve airflow during damper fall conditions and limit any disease risk.

2. Provide a Light Fall Feeding

Hellebores are not generally heavy feeders, but fall is a good time to provide some extra nutrients. They are about to break summer dormancy and start active root growth again, so a little food helps.

Use a balanced, mild fertilizer, either a liquid or slow-release product like this organic plant food from Walmart. Alternatively, you can add some compost as a top dressing. A bloom-booster is definitely not necessary to ensure hellebores flower.

Because established hellebores need so little fertilizing, it’s a good idea to check for alternative causes of any poor growth you see. It’s more likely to be an issue of soil moisture or disease. Check to see if the soil is too dry or isn’t draining well and for any signs of common hellebore diseases, like mold or spots.

3. Refresh Mulch & Manage Moisture

Early fall rainfall can be unpredictable. Moisture in the soil is essential as hellebores begin a period of active root growth, so keep an eye on both rain and the soil around your plants.

If the soil keeps drying out and the weather becomes unseasonably hot and dry, provide regular and deep watering at the soil level, not overhead. Use a drip irrigation kit or soaker hose, like this one from Home Depot, for easy watering. Be especially careful to keep the soil moist around newly divided and transplanted hellebores.

A layer of mulch is a good way to keep the soil more consistently moist. Apply a layer of organic mulch to a depth of about two inches (5 cm) all around the plants. Keep the area right around the crowns bare to prevent rot.

4. Divide Large Clumps

Hellebores develop nicely into large, dense clumps that flower year after year and don’t need to be divided annually. In fact, they don’t particularly like having their roots disturbed, so let large plants establish for at least three years and only divide healthy, oversized clumps.

If you do think your hellebore is ready for dividing, early fall is the right time to do it. Cooler air and still-warm soil make for good conditions to help transplants establish before the winter freeze. Dig up the entire root ball to divide your hellebore and cut cleanly through it to make divisions that have at least two to three healthy crown components each. Replant the new divisions right away.

5. Check for Volunteer Seedlings

If your spring hellebore flowers were allowed to go to seed, you will probably see a crowd of small volunteers all around the mature plants. These self-sown seedlings can get overgrown by September, so look for them and pull them out. Take care not to disturb the roots of the parent plant as you do this.

You can simply dispose of volunteers, transplant them, or pot them up. You can also leave some in place to create new clumps. Just be aware that many hellebores are hybrids, so the volunteers will not be the same as the parents.

Hellebores are very easy-going plants that don’t need a lot of care once established. A little attention in early fall can benefit these mostly hands-off plants, though. Keep an eye on moisture, tidy up lightly, and feed or divide if necessary, and they should transition well into their active growing season, providing gorgeous late winter to early spring blooms.

As late summer turns to fall, fuchsias usually give gardeners one final, spectacular flush of colorful flowers. September is a critical transition time. Care now depends on a balance between promoting those final blooms and preparing plants for cooler weather.

September fuchsia care also depends on whether you’re growing hardy fuchsias as perennials or tender fuchsias that are most often grown as annuals in containers. Here, we’ll go over important aspects of care – water, fertilizer, pruning, cuttings, and winter preparation – for both types of plants.

1. Adjust Your Watering Schedule

Fuchsias of all types thrive when planted in rich soil that stays consistently moist but not soggy. As temperatures cool in September and rain becomes more frequent, you’ll likely need to water fuchsias less. However, they still need moist soil to keep producing early fall flowers.

The best way to determine when to water is to stick your finger in the soil. If the top inch (2.5 cm) or so is dry, it’s time to water. If you want to be certain, then use a soil moisture meter, like this simple battery-free Xlux design on Amazon.

Keep in mind that container fuchsias need more frequent watering than those in beds. Also, pots should have very good drainage, especially as fall rains increase. If you’re preparing a tender, potted fuchsia to go indoors for winter dormancy, slowly and gradually reduce watering.

2. Change Your Feeding Strategy

September is also a time to adjust how you feed your fuchsias. You might need to change up the fertilizer you’ve been using during the growing season, which probably has a lot of nitrogen. Nitrogen promotes new, green growth, which you want to stop this time of year. Switch to a bloom-boosting product, like Espoma's Super Blossom Booster, to get a last, healthy flush for the season.

For flowers going indoors for the winter, taper off feeding. You don’t want any new growth now as the plant prepares for winter dormancy. The same is true for hardy perennials you want to survive the winter outdoors.

3. Deadhead and Prune Lightly

Fuchsias are pretty good at dropping spent flowers, but at this time of year, as you’re pushing the plant to optimize its last flush of blooms, it’s a good idea to deadhead. Spent flowers develop seeds pretty quickly, so removing them helps the plant put energy into additional flowers rather than seeds.

Annuals don’t need pruning once they’re done flowering, as you’ll just be disposing of them. For hardy perennial fuchsias, September is a good time to tidy up lightly. Trim back damaged or yellow foliage and crossed stems in larger shrubs. Avoid hard pruning, as this can stimulate new growth that gets damaged in winter weather.

4. Check for Pests and Diseases

Common threats to fuchsias in early autumn include gray mold and fuchsia rust, both fungal diseases that thrive in cooler, wetter weather conditions. You might also see some lingering pests, like spider mites, aphids, and whiteflies. Give your hardy perennials and tender plants coming in for winter a good check to make sure you manage these issues now to prevent damage later.

Remove any foliage that looks infected or damaged. If you see pests, you can try to remove them with water. For more troublesome infestations, use neem oil or an insecticidal soap, like this organic Bonide spray from Amazon. It’s especially important to remove all pests from plants coming indoors, as these can transfer to your houseplants and cause ongoing problems.

5. Prepare Potted Fuchsias for a Winter Indoors

If you plan to save your tender fuchsias for next year, September is the time to start planning for their outdoor-to-indoor transition. Reduce watering and feeding gradually to get them ready for dormancy. Do a thorough check for pests before bringing any plants inside.

Transition fuchsias gently by first moving them to more sheltered areas outdoors and then finally indoors to a spot that is cool but has bright, indirect light. Overwintering requirements for fuchsias vary a little by cultivar, so know what you have and look up the specifics. For example, some types prefer darkness in winter.

6. Protect Hardy Perennial Fuchsias

As temperatures drop outside, your hardy fuchsias can benefit from a little winter protection. While they might be hardy in your growing zone, these tropical plants might still struggle, especially if you get an early freeze or unusual cold snaps.

Avoid heavy pruning at this time. Only remove the 3 Ds – dead, damaged, or diseased foliage. Leave the rest in place to help protect the crown. Add a layer of mulch around the plant, like this Miracle-Gro Organic All Natural Mulch from Walmart, to help keep the soil warmer and protect the roots. Don't pile it up close to the stems, or it can lead to rot.

Fuchsia September Care Essentials

September care for a fuchsia plant depends on your climate and your plant type. In general, this transition period requires careful shifts in water and fertilizer along with a little deadheading, pruning, and pest checks. Whether you’re hoping to keep your fuchsia going indoors or prepping an outdoor plant for winter, a little care now pays off big next year.

They say opposites attract, and while my slightly unhealthy rom-com addiction has taught me that it’s the basis of many successful relationships, it also provides the spark for some of the best plant pairings in the garden. There’s just something irresistible about flowers with contrasting colors and forms coming together in perfect harmony. And as we head towards fall, few combinations bring as much energy to a border as helenium and globe thistle. A pure fire-meets-ice pairing, it’s so alive you can almost hear it crackling.

Make room for my latest Plant Matchmaker pairing in your borders and you’ll be rewarded with a low-maintenance display that reaches its peak just as most summer flowers are starting to fade, bridging that awkward gap before fall properly sets in. Depending on the varieties you choose, both plants can be grown across a broad range of climates, roughly USDA hardiness zones 3–8. Globe thistle (Echinops) can continue flowering as late as October, but even if it fades in September, it leaves behind sculptural seed heads, while heleniums (Helenium autumnale) won’t stop blooming until the first heavy autumn frosts.

If not for their bold spherical shape, the cool blue-lavender flowers of globe thistle could almost seem understated, but they provide an elegant architectural foil for cheery, fluttery heleniums. Also known by the less-than-flattering common name sneezeweed, these daisy-like flowers bring glowing orange, gold, and copper tones that light up borders. They’re like little shots of sunshine on a dreary day.

Why Helenium and Globe Thistle Work Together

On paper, helenium and globe thistle couldn’t be more different: one is sunny, soft, and loose; the other is cool, strong, and upright. Rather than competing, though, the two forms exaggerate one another. Orange and blue sit opposite each other on the color wheel, creating a strong complementary contrast that’s far less common in gardens than the classic yellow and purple flower pairings.

Heleniums generally shine from late summer into fall, while Echinops tend to start and finish a little earlier. This provides a useful overlap in flowering seasons at the latter part of summer. Together, the plants provide invaluable interest when most of the garden has begun to fade.

And don’t be too quick to clear everything away at the end of the season. Globe thistle's spherical seedheads continue to provide structure long after the blue flowers have faded, extending the interest and offering a valuable late-season food source for garden birds like goldfinches.

Which Varieties to Choose

For the richest possible contrast, opt for predominantly orange-toned heleniums, rather than a pure yellow variety. Think burnt orange, copper, and russet shades to make that cool blue contrast even more intense.

Try the deep copper-red Helenium Moerheim Beauty, available to preorder from Eden Brothers in a collection with black-eyed Susan, another late-season star. For something more varied, Salud Embers, available from Trees.com, produces shifting warm sunset hues. You can also save money by growing heleniums from seed, which can be planted in the fall.

To provide the strongest architectural contrast, choose taller globe thistles, like Echinops bannaticus 'Blue Glow', available from Plant Addicts. Growing up to 4 feet (1.2 m) high, its blue spheres can rise above the heleniums rather than disappearing among them. More compact forms like Echinops ritro, available to preorder from Eden Brothers, are a better option if you want the same color contrast at a slightly lower level, as they reach 2.5–3 feet (75–90 cm). You can start globe thistles from seed in the autumn for flowers the following year.

As heleniums commonly reach around 3–5 feet (90–150 cm), check the mature height of both varieties before deciding where each should sit in the border.

How to Grow Them Together

OK, so there is one small catch with this plant match: helenium and globe thistle don’t share identical moisture preferences. Helenium prefers consistent moisture, while globe thistle is a drought-tolerant superstar. But because both are sun lovers, there is some middle ground here. Choose a sunny border with soil that holds enough moisture for helenium but is well-draining enough so that globe thistle doesn’t have soggy roots.

If your soil is very dry and sandy, concentrate extra watering around the heleniums. In heavy or waterlogged ground, improve drainage around the globe thistles, or position them towards the higher, drier part of the bed.

Both plants have enough stature to work through the middle or back of a perennial border. Rather than colorblocking the flowers, thread the globe thistles loosely between groups of heleniums. Their round heads will appear to float above a sea of sunshine, creating the layered effect that makes this combination look “designed”.

Once established, globe thistle requires very little attention. Avoid overfeeding, as rich soil can encourage floppier growth. Helenium appreciates more attention paid to fertilizing and watering, and cutting taller plants back earlier in the season can encourage bushier growth and more flowers.

Get the balance right, and you can sit back and watch the sparks fly – few late-season combinations can make orange look hotter and blue look cooler than helenium with globe thistle.

More From Plant Matchmaker

This feature is part of our Plant Matchmaker series, which explores creative, practical plant combinations to help your garden feel more thoughtfully designed.

We gardeners have enough on our plates in autumn, what with fall cleanup and preparing our gardens for winter. Planting seeds for next year’s flowers can seem like a bridge too far. But there’s an easy way to take that item off your garden to-do list: installing self-sowing flowers.

Self-sowing flowers do their own seeding and return every year. They drop their seeds at the end of the growing season in order to propagate the species. By planting the right flowers today, you’ll get effortless blooms next year. Why not leave the seed sowing to Mother Nature, the original gardener?

Here are the most beautiful self-sowing flowers that bloom in fall for easy autumn color that returns every year.

Self-Sowing Flowers for Autumn

There are dozens, if not hundreds, of self-seeding garden plants that flower in autumn. So setting out a complete list is beyond the scope of a single article. But most of us don’t need dozens of plants to get started.

The following list of plants will fill your garden with a mix of brilliant and beautiful colors that come back year after year without any effort on your part.

1. Black-Eyed Susan

Are black-eyed Susans the most easily recognized of all fall flowers? If not, they’re definitely in the top five. Black-eyed Susans produce yellow golden daisy-like blooms with dark “eyes” in the center from summer through the first frost in fall. The flowers are supremely cheerful, creating a bright and happy display that provides nectar to pollinators like bees and butterflies.

How hard are black-eyed Susans to care for? Plant them in a sunny location in well-draining soil and they don’t need much else. They are drought tolerant and self-sufficient and reseed easily.

The most important matter to keep in mind is to stop deadheading in late summer. Let those seedheads form. They will provide food for wild birds in winter while still self-seeding sufficiently to make the gardener smile next September.

Shop a variety of native black-eyed Susan plants online from American Meadows.

2. Sweet Alyssum

Sweet alyssum is popular with gardeners and pollinators alike thanks to its tiny white or purple flowers that seem to come in wave after wave. This low-growing plant needs a full sun or partial sun location and well-draining soil.

The flowers carry a powerful, sweet fragrance that attracts bees, flower flies, stingless wasps ,and butterflies. They look right at home in cottage gardens or prairie landscapes. In warm regions with mild winters, sweet alyssum can bloom almost all year round. Otherwise, they flower during the entire growing season including fall.

The key to getting alyssum to self-seed is to leave the dry seed cones on the plants starting in late summer. They offer food for the birds and also reseed easily in open soil.

Explore an array of colorful alyssum seeds from Botanical Interests.

3. Borage

Borage, also called starflower, is a fast-growing annual herb with bright blue, star-shaped flowers and fuzzy leaves. It can be considered a crop as well as a flower since the edible leaves have a crisp, cucumber-like flavor. Plus, the charming flowers can also be added to fresh salads for color and flavor.

The flowers appear in summer and keep on blooming into autumn. It’s easy to care for in the garden and so tolerant that it can grow happily in less-than-perfect soil. It is best to place borage in a site with partial or full sun. There is no need to save the seeds since the plant does a fabulous job of self-sowing in milder climates on its own.

You can pick up a packet of organic heirloom borage seeds from the Home Depot.

4. California Poppy

California’s official state flower is a long-blooming, brilliant orange poppy with delicate, blue-green fern-like foliage. California poppy is an exceptional plant that covers fields and wild hillsides throughout the growing season right up through fall. This gorgeous poppy is also a nectar and pollen source for beneficial insects, including native bees and butterflies.

California poppy can grow on almost any well-draining soil regardless of the nutrient content, but you’ll see more flowers when the soil is poor. It does need a full sun exposure. The flowers appear from February to September, with the highest numbers in spring. When the cool season arrives, poppies drop abundant seeds that sprout the following year.

You can buy a colorful mix of California poppy seeds in bulk from Amazon.

5. Cosmos

Can any annual be better than this one? Cosmos produce beautiful blooms in a variety of shades of pink and white. They continue flowering all through the growing season.

These annuals are amazingly easy to grow, self-seed generously, and return the following season with minimal effort. They sit atop the long, slender stems. Do you want them small? Do you prefer them tall? You’ll find varieties of cosmos that top out anywhere from 1-6 feet (0.5-2 m) tall.

Cosmos are happy plants that liven up any landscape. The species is native to Southern and Central America – both warm areas – so it's no surprise that they prefer to be sited in a warm, sunny spot in well-draining soil.

Try these 'Sensation Mix' cosmos from Home Depot for a variety of pink and white blooms.

Peonies are a favorite for many gardeners. They don’t need a lot of care once established, and reward you with abundant, gorgeous flowers. They can even live for up to 100 years if they’re happy with their growing conditions.

While peony care is generally hands-off over summer, fall does require a little effort on your part. Some tidying and winter prep will pay off next year with healthy new shoots and big blooms. Fall is also a good time to divide or plant new peonies.

Here’s what you need to know about September peony care.

1. Remove Diseased Foliage

One of the only things that can challenge you as a peony grower is disease. Peonies are prone to fungal and bacterial infections, especially as temperatures cool and rain increases in early fall. Start checking your plants for diseased-looking leaves and stems at the end of summer and the start of September.

Remove any foliage that looks damaged, has dying tissue or has spots or powdery residue. Clean and disinfect your shears after trimming back diseased leaves and before using them on healthy plants. Dispose of diseased leaves and stems. Do not put them in the compost pile.

2. Cut Back All the Foliage

Because disease can be an issue, and the vectors for disease can remain in the soil and spread, it’s best to remove all of your peonies’ spent foliage in fall. New shoots will come up in spring even if you cut them all the way back. Our editors love Fiskars bypass pruning shears from Amazon because they're sharp, built to last, and also very easy on the wallet. Sharp shears mean you won't damage the plant when you're doing your deadheading and cutting back.

You can wait until the foliage starts dying back naturally, especially if it looks healthy and you have already removed any that looks diseased.

If you see a lot of disease, cut it all back earlier. Cut your plants to within a few inches of the ground and dispose of all the debris. Don’t leave it in place, where disease can fester.

3. Divide Peonies, If Needed

Fall is the best time to divide peonies, but only if they need it. September provides cooler weather and more rain to minimize stress, but also gives transplants time to establish before winter. Despite taking care, peonies do not like to be moved, so only tackle this chore if they really need it, generally only every five to ten years. Overcrowded peonies look dense and tend to produce fewer and smaller flowers.

To divide peonies, first cut back the foliage. Carefully dig out and remove the clump from the ground, gently brushing or washing off dirt so you can see the roots. Use a sharp, clean knife to cut the roots into sections. Each division should have three to five eyes (these look like pink or white buds) and substantial, healthy roots.

4. Plant New Peonies or Move Established Ones

September is also the best time for planting new bare root peonies or moving existing plants, if you must. You might need to move plants if trees have grown, creating too much shade, the soil isn’t draining, or you are doing a garden redesign.

Choose a spot with full sun and soil that drains well. Give peonies plenty of room to grow, so they don’t get overcrowded or suffer from lack of airflow. It’s very important that you plant peonies so that the eyes are no more than one to two inches (2.5 to 5.0 cm) below the soil surface. Water new peonies and transplants well to help them establish.

5. Add a Layer of Mulch

Once you have new peonies in the ground or have cut back foliage from established peonies, it’s time to consider winter protection. Especially if you have cold winters, a light layer of straw, pine needles, or bark mulch can keep the roots a little warmer and hold some moisture in the soil.

Don’t layer the mulch too thickly and leave a bare space over the soil that covers the crown of the plant. Piling mulch up here can create damp conditions that lead to rot. Miracle-Gro Organic dye-free mulch from Lowe's will provide great winter protection and will prevent weeds.

What Not to Do for Peonies in September

Just as important as what to do for them is what not to do. These are some mistakes to avoid for September peony care:

• Applying fertilizer, especially nitrogen-heavy products
• Cutting healthy foliage back too early in the season while it’s still gathering energy
• Leaving foliage on the ground
• Composting diseased foliage
• Planting new or divided peonies too deeply
• Mulching too heavily, especially over the crowns
• Letting roots and crowns get soggy and not addressing soil drainage issues

September is one of the most important months of the year for a plant that doesn’t need a lot of care the rest of the year. Now is the time to do many of these tasks, which will ensure your plants are healthy and blooming vigorously next year.

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I love dahlias. Those enormous flowers have a habit of making everything around them look slightly underdressed, and every time I pop down my local community garden I find myself staring at those dinner-plate sized blooms with my mouth agape.

Can you blame me? Just when the rest of the garden is beginning to look a little tired, dahlias are still putting on their best performance – but then, depending on where you live, comes the inevitable business of lifting, storing, dividing, and generally fussing over those precious tubers. And if there's one thing I'm not a fan of, it's fussing.

With that in mind, then, I've been wondering if there might be a slightly easier way to get that same late-season wow factor... and I think I've found it in the form of a seriously pretty perennial.

The Pretty Perennial That's Quietly Replacing Dahlias

If you, too, dream of replacing dahlias with something a little easier – and of course you do – then meet Autumn Gold Helianthus (available at Burpee).

A compact perennial sunflower that absolutely comes into its own when summer is winding down. And I know what you're thinking: a sunflower instead of a dahlia? Well, hear me out.

For starters, Autumn Gold Helianthus is nothing like the enormous sunflower stems you're probably picturing right now. And, while dahlias have that wonderful ability to keep a border looking alive when summer's first flush of flowers is beginning to fade, 'Autumn Gold' does something remarkably similar, but with cheerful golden flowers that appear en masse from September through early November.

Unlike most sunflowers, too, Autumn Gold forms a much mound, smothered in golden-yellow flowers that are hardy in USDA Planting Zones 4-9, which is excellent news for local pollinators (because, yes, its late-season flowers attract butterflies and birds).

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Another reason this is a good one to consider if you want to start replacing dahlias?Well, rather than giving you one or two enormous sunflower heads towering above everything else, 'Autumn Gold' creates a dense display of medium-sized flowers.

In other words, it has the kind of visual impact I usually want from a late-summer perennial without asking me to make room for a giant plant. And, perhaps most importantly for those of us who like our gardens to do a little more of the work themselves, it doesn't require coddling.

Give it full sun and well-drained soil, and it isn't particularly fussy. The compact habit also means it shouldn't need the kind of staking that can become necessary with taller sunflower varieties. Plus, it comes back every year, making it the ideal option for those looking to swap their dahlias for something hardier.

Now, I'm not suggesting we all break up with our dahlia tubers tomorrow. I still love them, and nothing quite matches the variety of flower shapes and colors you can get from those wonderfully indulgent blooms.

That being said, if what you're looking for is a reliable late-season display, perennial return, lots of wildlife value and less fuss, then Autumn Gold makes a very convincing alternative.

Try not to think of it as a dahlia lookalike (although planted en masse it makes one heck of an impact!). Instead, think of it as a different way to get the same thing we all love about dahlias: a proper fall spectacle.

Don't tell everyone, but buying end-of-season bargains and bare root plants now will fill your garden with flowers for years to come while saving a fortune. With fall sneaking up on us, next summer probably isn’t on your radar yet. But now is a surprisingly smart time to shop for perennials to plant in fall and give your garden a head start. There are September plant bargains to be had with garden centers keen to clear the last of their summer stock. Dormant bare root plants also offer an economical way to buy without paying out for a large plant that's costly to transport, and planting bare roots is just as easy as adding a potted plant to your backyard.

The real advantage of fall planting goes way beyond price, however. Warm soil and cooler air create excellent conditions for root growth, helping perennial plants settle in with less heat and transplant stress. And while there'll be no instant show of flowers or lush foliage, what matters is that roots are busy growing in the soil. By spring, that supportive root system means perennials hit the ground running, giving you bigger, stronger plants and, in many cases, lots more flowers.

So, if you want to have a gorgeous garden on a budget, start with these 10 reliable plants with serious flower power. Every garden should have all these hard-working flowering plants that bring plenty of blooms year in, year out, in return for very little effort. All are cheaper to buy right now in both bare root and potted form, and we've hunted out the very best deals on our recommended varieties. So, whether you're starting a new yard from scratch or want to ensure existing borders are packed with blooms, all these plants make great garden investments.

Ready to know what to buy and how to give it the best possible start so that next summer your garden will be blooming lovely? Let's dive in…

1. Peony

• Zones 3-8
• Full sun to partial shade
• Flowers late spring to early summer
• Grows to 2-4 feet high and 2-3 feet wide

With their varied shapes and brilliant colors, peonies are a must for any style of yard, and planting them now is better for the plant as well as your wallet. Buy peonies now as bare roots for planting in fall and in most of the US, the soil is still warm enough for roots to grow while the top growth is shutting down. And it's so easy to do. Plant a peony bare root with the eyes – the pink or reddish buds on the root – just 1-2 inches below the soil surface; any deeper and your peonies may refuse to flower. Give them full sun and excellent drainage, and don't crowd them as good air circulation helps keep foliage healthy.

'Coral Charm' Peony, available from Dutch Grown, is a particular favorite as it brings a succession of warm shades over the summer. Or for timeless romance, ‘Sarah Bernhardt’ Peony, also available from Dutch Grown, is hard to beat with its huge, beautifully ruffled double blooms in soft rose-pink tones. Be patient as peonies can take a couple of seasons to settle in and flower generously but once established, they can live for 50 years or more!

2. Daylily

• Zones 3-9
• Full sun to partial shade
• Flowers summer into fall, depending on variety
• Grows to 1-4 feet high and 1-3 feet wide

Daylilies (Hemerocallis) are not only glorious, but they’re also wonderfully forgiving, making them one of the easiest bare root perennials to establish in fall. Planting daylilies now gives the fleshy roots time to settle into their new home while cooler weather reduces the stress of transplanting. Come spring, your daylily will start the growing season with roots that have had months to establish, for a standout show of blooms.

Set the crown – where the roots meet the leaves – about 1 inch below the soil surface, rather than burying it deeply. Water well after planting, then keep the soil reasonably moist until the ground begins to freeze. Give daylilies a sunny spot for the best flowering, although many varieties tolerate light shade.

One of the most popular varieties with garden designers is Daylily 'Black Stockings', available from Dutch Grown, with unrivalled near-black, velvety petals. It’s a reblooming variety, so you'll enjoy more blooms for your bucks. For a softer, more romantic note, Daylily 'Lavender Tutu', also available from Dutch Grown, makes a beautiful contrast to deeper purples, burgundies and pinks of other perennials.

3. Oriental Poppy

• Zones 3-7
• Full sun to partial shade
• Flowers late spring to early summer
• Grows to 2-4 feet high and 1-2 feet wide

With their huge blousy blooms, oriental poppies (Papaver orientalis) are a perennial favorite and their chunky, fleshy roots are tailormade for bare root planting in fall, giving plants time to settle in before winter. Plant the roots horizontally, following the supplier's directions, being careful not to bury them too deeply. Choose a sunny position with sharply drained soil as winter-wet ground is a bigger threat than cold. Oriental poppies don’t take kindly to being moved so choose the right spot to start with and they'll put on a spectacular display for years to come.

For drama, few poppies can rival ‘Patty’s Plum’ with its huge, crinkled blooms, and bare root poppy 'Patty's Plum' is available at Dutch Grown. To bring light and contrast to any sunny border, 'Perry's White', also available from Dutch Grown, is a winner with enormous, ruffled white flowers.

4. Sedum

• Zones 3-9
• Full sun
• Flowers summer to late fall
• Grows to 1-2½ feet high and 1½-3 feet wide

There’s a good reason why sedum (Hylotelephium) is such a reliable garden favorite, and that's because it's one of those late-season heroes that keeps on flowering when everything else has given up. It combines beautiful flowers with incredible resilience and requires hardly any looking after. These succulent-leaved perennials thrive in full sun and well-drained soil, shrugging off heat, drought and poor soil once established. So if you have a tricky too-hot area where not much wants to grow, here's your solution.

Sedum flowers are rich in nectar for bees and butterflies, and this plant earns its place in the garden well beyond its flowering season. The sturdy flowerheads look good through fall and you can leave the spent heads standing over winter to provide structure.

Buying potted plants at knock-down prices and planting them now gives sedum roots time to settle before next summer’s heat arrives. Water thoroughly after planting, then allow the soil to dry between waterings rather than keeping plants constantly moist. Autumn Joy sedum, available from Nature Hills is a must-have classic with large, flat heads of dusky pink flowers that deepen towards rich red as autumn progresses. For something a little different, Plum Dazzled sedum, available from Plant Addicts, combines sumptuous plum-purple foliage with rosy-pink flowers and adds rich color to the garden as the season begins to fade.

5. Bearded Iris

• Zones 3-9
• Full sun
• Flowers spring to early summer
• Grows to 1-2½ feet high and 1½-2 feet wide

Bold yet elegant bearded iris flowers bring vibrant color and beautiful structure to a garden, yet are far more low-maintenance and drought-tolerant that their exotic appearance suggests. Bearded iris can be bought as rhizomes – underground storage stems – at this time of the year, which is far cheaper than buying a potted ready-to-flower plant next year.

Fall planting allows the rhizome to make roots before the plant goes fully dormant, giving it a stronger launch into spring. Just be sure to give your bearded iris several weeks of root-building weather before winter arrives. Plant the rhizome at or just barely below the soil surface in a sun-baked spot with free-draining soil. Water thoroughly after planting, but don't keep the soil constantly wet.

The intense purple ruffles of bearded iris Black Knight, available from Dutch Grown, is a sophisticated choice and a worthy talking point, so add these to your front yard if you want to make your neighbors a little jealous. Bearded iris Wine and Roses, also available from Dutch Grown, offers a more romantic vibe with deliciously coloured pink and purple petals.

6. Coneflower

• Zones 3-9
• Full sun
• Flowers summer to fall
• Grows to 2-4 feet high and 1-2 feet wide

Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) is a dependable perennial and will transform from a late-season nursery bargain into next summer's best pollinator magnet. By September, many container-grown coneflowers have finished their biggest floral display so garden centers drop the price – which is great news for savvy shoppers! Your garden birds will be pleased, too, as coneflowers provide plenty of homegrown seed for feathered friends.

Choose a spot with full sun and well-drained soil and water thoroughly when planting, then regularly irrigate while your coneflower is establishing without keeping the soil constantly soggy.

Magnus purple coneflower, available at Nature Hills is an unbeatable classic, offering color and sustenance to bees and butterflies throughout summer. For a sturdier habit and just as much butterfly appeal with masses of rich burgundy-red flowers, Sombrero Baja Burgundy coneflower, available from Burpee is another super choice for any garden.

7. Black-eyed Susans

• Zones 4-9/10 depending on species
• Full sun to partial shade
• Flowers summer to late fall
• Grows to 2-6 feet high and 1-3 feet wide

Black-eyed Susan is a stalwart of sunny summer borders, delivering masses of cheerful flowers with little fuss. Leave some spent flowerheads over winter and you'll also provide seeds for birds, extending the plant's usefulness well beyond its flowering season. Potted Rudbeckia plants are often discounted once their peak summer display has passed; buy them now and you should still get a few weeks of color from these late-season bloomers.

Full sun is ideal, with reasonably fertile, well-drained soil. Water deeply after planting to encourage roots to explore the surrounding soil so, once established, plants are robust and can cope with heat and periods of dry weather.

‘Prairie Glow’ black-eyed Susan, available from Nature Hills, has a fiery twist and glows through the summer and into fall – perfect for bringing warmth to the late-season garden. Or, for a variety that takes up very little border space, choose Rudbeckia Little Goldstar, also available from Nature Hills, which is perfectly compact and equally floriferous. This is also one of best perennials for patio pots if you want maximum flowers for minimum effort.

8. Yarrow

• Zones 3-9
• Full sun
• Flowers summer to fall
• Grows to 1-4 feet high and 1-3 feet wide

Achillea is one of those plants that looks deceptively delicate but is a real garden workhorse. Its flat-topped flower clusters bring butterflies and other pollinators, while the foliage has a pleasingly ferny texture. With its tough constitution and long flowering season, yarrow is a particularly useful perennial for low-maintenance borders. By fall, container-grown yarrow plants have finished flowering, making them prime candidates for end-of-season markdowns.

Especially lovely is Achillea ‘Strawberry Seduction’, available from Nature Hills, which carries domed heads of deliciously rich pink-red flowers, gradually fading to warm straw yellow as summer progresses. For the earthy warmth of a summer sunset, yarrow ‘Desert Eve Terracotta’, available at Lowe's, is a more compact choice to add glowing color to a sunny border. Give yarrow full sun and good drainage and plant it at the same depth it was growing in its pot.

9. Aster

• Zones 3-8, depending on species
• Full sun to partial shade
• Flowers late summer to fall
• Grows to 1-6 feet high and 1-4 feet wide

Native asters (Symphyotrichum) peak just as many perennials are winding down, producing clouds of daisy-like flowers in late summer and fall. That makes them particularly useful to wildlife – and easy to overlook when plant-shopping earlier in the year. Native asters are particularly useful for supporting specialist bees and are important host plants for numerous moth and butterfly caterpillars. Leaving the dried stems standing over winter will provide habitat and seed, as well as a little structure when the rest of the border has gone quiet.

Plant asters now while the soil is workable, preferably in sun and well-drained soil. Don't worry if the plant looks less than impressive once its flowers fade: the root system is busy growing to support bountiful blooms next year.

If you have a small gap to fill, try dwarf variety ‘Purple Dome’, available from Nature Hills – it’s great for being naturally pest-free too. For intensely rich, grape-purple flowers, ‘Grape Crush’, also available from Nature Hills, is the perfect antidote to fading summer color.

10. Hosta

• Zones 3-9
• Partial shade to shade
• Flowers summer
• Grows to ½–2½ feet high and ½-3 feet wide

The magic of hostas is they don't need to be in flower to be fabulous. Their leaves create structure, color and interest from spring onwards, making them wonderful for woodland gardens, shady borders, containers and naturalized planting.

Hostas are one of the easiest shade-loving perennials to establish from bare roots in fall. Plant your bargain roots in partial to full shade and rich, moisture-retentive, well-drained soil. Keep the crown level with the soil surface, water thoroughly and keep the soil consistently moist while roots establish, particularly if fall is dry. Don’t worry if there’s little to see above ground after planting as hostas naturally die back for winter before emerging in spring, when you'll need to protect tasty fresh leaves from slugs and snails with Garden Safe Slug and Snail Granules, available from Amazon.

A mixed hosta collection such as this Walmart deal is a lovely (and highly economical) way to discover just how much variety these plants can offer. Or skip straight to the showstoppers with a standout variety like hosta White Feather, available from Dutch Grown, whose cream leaves light up a shady corner. Hosta Fire & Ice, also available from Dutch Grown, is another surefire hit with stunning variegated foliage.

Top Tips for September Success

• Don't judge a plant by its flowers. End-of-season container plants can look a little scruffy but as long as the crown is firm, the foliage is reasonably healthy and the roots aren't rotten or completely pot-bound. When you're searching through a garden center's bargain corner, skip anything with obvious disease, severe pest damage or a dry, brittle root ball.
• Treat bare-root plants with care. The bare roots should arrive firm and substantial rather than dried out or brittle. Keep roots from drying out and plant as soon as practical, following the supplier's instructions for soaking and planting depth.
• Get the basics right. Always match the perennial to your USDA hardiness zone, sunlight, soil drainage and local growing conditions. The cheapest plant is no bargain if it's planted in the wrong place.
• In colder regions, aim to plant at least four to six weeks before the ground freezes, giving new arrivals time to establish before temperatures plummet.
• Water after planting. Fall rain may do some of the work but newly planted perennials still need a thorough drink and should be watered during prolonged dry spells while they establish.
• Always mulch fall-planted perennials. A 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch such as Back to Roots Organic Mulch, available from The Home Depot, laid over the soil surface helps conserve moisture and buffer temperature swings; keep it a little away from crowns and stems to prevent rot.

If you've been wondering what to plant in fall, now you know. Get busy in September and take advantage of end-of-season bargains and bare root plants and your garden will be packed full of flowers next summer, for years to come, without splashing the cash. There's no better way to save money when starting a new garden, adding another border or filling up an existing bed with extra flower power, than planting great-value perennials in fall.

Something shifts for orchids once the calendar turns. The days are shortening, the nights are cooling off, and for a moth orchid that spent all summer building leaves and roots, that combination is the cue. Whether flowers happen at all tends to be settled around now – not in January, when the spike finally shows itself.

Most of what good orchid care asks for in September is subtraction. Less water, less feeding. Cooler nights, too – that one probably matters most. The thing worth adding is attention, since a fair bit of the month’s damage comes from running summer habits a few weeks too long.

1. Let the Nights Get Cold

Phalaenopsis needs a run of cool nights before it will push a flower spike. Around 55F (13C) after dark for a few weeks is the usual target, with days holding in the normal 75 to 85F (24 to 29C) range. A house kept at a flat 72F (22C) all year is comfortable for people. For an orchid, it can be the reason nothing ever happens.

An east or north-facing window does much of this on its own once outdoor lows start dropping, since the glass runs colder than the room. A small monitor near the pot takes the guesswork out of it – a ThermoPro hygrometer from Amazon logs the overnight low so the number is sitting there in the morning, which beats guessing.

2. Bring Summering Plants Back Indoors

Anything that spent the summer on a porch is working against a deadline now. Once nighttime lows start touching 55F (13C), plants belong back under a roof. Waiting for frost is how people lose orchids outright – cold damage on a leaf doesn’t heal, and a hard night can take the whole plant. Cymbidiums shrug off more chill than most, though the common houseplant types really don’t.

Scrub the indoor growing spot before anything comes back to it. Algae and old debris on a windowsill carry problems forward, and dealing with it now is easier than chasing an infestation across a full shelf in February.

3. Check Every Plant for Hitchhikers

Plants that summered outside almost always bring something in with them. Mealybugs (Pseudococcidae) tuck into leaf joints as cottony white specks. Scale insects (Coccoidea) look like small brown bumps that scrape off with a fingernail. Slugs and weed seedlings ride in inside the pot itself, sometimes with an ant colony living under the bark.

Rinse the leaves and their undersides first, then treat while the plant is still outside. Captain Jack’s insecticidal super soap from Amazon is labeled for outdoor use, so the porch is where that step belongs anyway. Keep treated plants separated from the rest for a couple of weeks afterward. It’s a precaution, not a verdict on the plant.

4. Follow the Light as the Sun Drops

The sun sits lower every week now. A south-facing window that was scorching leaves in July can become decent real estate by late September, while a corner that suited a plant fine in June may be too dim by month’s end. Leaf color reads the situation faster than any meter – grassy green is about right, and dark forest green usually means the plant could take more.

Cleaning orchid leaves helps more than people expect, since a summer’s worth of film cuts into what light there is. Rotate the pot with a quarter turn every week or so to keep growth even. Small stuff, but it stacks up.

5. Ease Off the Water and Fertilizer

Growth slows as the light goes, and orchid water requirements fall off with it. Bark that dried out in four days in August might stay damp for eight or nine now, so an unchanged watering rhythm quietly becomes a root rot problem. Check before pouring. In a clear pot, silvery roots mean thirsty and green ones mean wait a while longer.

Orchid feeding can taper too – a diluted dose every few weeks rather than the weekly warm-season routine. Flush the pot with plain water first to clear out built-up salts. And never feed a bone-dry plant, whatever month it is.

6. Save Repotting for the Spring

September feels like a tidy-up month, which is exactly why so people repot orchids right about now. Better to wait. Disturbing roots while a plant is setting up to spike can cost the flowers, and shortening days leave little in the tank for recovery. Unless the medium has gone to mush or the roots are rotting, spring is the safer window.

Watch instead. Spikes tend to show up later in fall, and once one reaches 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20cm) it wants support – a set of orchid support stakes with clips from Amazon handles that. Clip loosely and leave the growing tip free to move on its own.

None of this is dramatic work. Let the nights run cold, back off a little on everything else, and the flowers arrive on their own schedule.