Fun fact about me: I am always on the hunt for fast-growing flowers that can add some serious color to my garden before the fall rolls around. Especially at this time of year.

Why? Well, because every single time August rolls around, I start noticing the gaps. The spring annuals have lost their sparkle, all but the longest-blooming perennials are beginning to fade, and suddenly the garden feels like it's quietly winding down long before I'm ready to say goodbye to summer.

For too many years, I assumed I'd missed my chance. Once August arrived, I thought it was too late to plant anything new and I'd simply have to wait until next spring. Thankfully, that's one of those gardening myths that's wonderfully easy to prove wrong, as August can be one of the smartest times to add fast-growing flowers to the mix.

7 Fast-Growing Flowers You Can Still Plant In August

If you want to plant fast-growing flowers this month so that you have oodles of color over the autumn, you're in luck! Warm summer soil helps roots establish quickly, which means many annuals race into bloom before the first frost; in fact, gardeners in warmer USDA zones can often enjoy flowers well into October or even November.

There is a knack to it, of course, and it's this: choose the plants that don't mind getting a late start. The ones that grow astonishingly quickly from seed (or even the ones best planted as young nursery plants for an almost instant splash of color).

Before you fill your cart, though, it's worth checking your USDA hardiness zone and average first frost date. Gardeners in Zones 8–10 have a much longer planting window than those in Zones 3–5, but every region still has options for extending the season.

With that in mind, then...

1. Calendula

If I could only sow one fast-growing flower in August, calendula would be near the top of my list (especially so now that scientists have been raving about its unexpected superpowers of late).

Its cheerful orange and yellow blooms often appear in as little as six to eight weeks, making it perfect for late-season color. Better still, calendula actually prefers the cooler weather that arrives as summer fades, so it often performs better in fall than it does during the hottest weeks of July.

Winner winner, chicken dinner!

2. Sweet Alyssum

Want fast-growing flowers that spell big, bold, beautiful color for fall? Never underestimate this little plant.

Sweet alyssum quickly forms soft cushions covered in tiny, honey-scented flowers that pollinators absolutely adore. Garden centers often stock young plants throughout late summer, making it one of the easiest ways to refresh containers and borders.

In warmer parts of the country, it can continue blooming right up until winter. Bag yourself some Sweet Alyssum Flower Seeds from Walmart, then, and get sowing.

3. Nasturtiums

Nasturtiums are one of those fast-growing flowers that seem to grow with astonishing enthusiasm, with their rounded leaves and jewel-colored blooms quickly scrambling through containers, raised beds, and vegetable gardens.

Both the leaves and flowers are edible, which is no small boon in this day and age. And, from seed, many varieties bloom within six to eight weeks. Give the Sweethearts Mix Nasturtium Seeds from Burpee a go.

4. Violas

Most people think of violas as spring flowers, but I actually love planting these fast-growing flowers toward the end of summer.

As temperatures begin cooling, they burst into flower and often continue long after many summer annuals have given up. In milder climates, they may even flower through winter. That being said, though, I suggest you plant nursery-grown starts in August for the quickest display; something like the Halo Golden Yellow Hardy Violet Perennial from Walmart should do the trick.

5. Zinnias

If your first frost is still several weeks away, zinnias are absolutely worth squeezing in.

These cheerful annuals love warm soil, which means August-planted nursery starts settle in quickly and can keep flowering until frost. In warmer USDA zones, you can also sow fast-maturing dwarf varieties directly from seed, though gardeners in cooler regions will usually get the best results by starting with established plants.

One of my favorite things about zinnias is that the more you cut them for bouquets, the more flowers they seem to produce. They're also magnets for butterflies, making them one of the easiest ways to add both color and pollinator activity to a late-summer garden.

Pick yourself up a pot of zinnias from Walmart, then, and get cracking!

6. Lantana

If your summer garden is looking tired, lantana is one of the fastest ways to bring it back to life.

This heat-loving flower seems to become happier as temperatures climb, producing clusters of tiny blooms in fiery shades of orange, pink, yellow, purple and white. While other plants start struggling in late summer heat, lantana keeps flowering – often right through the first frost.

It's especially valuable for gardeners in warmer USDA zones, where it can grow as a perennial and continue returning year after year. In colder regions, treat it as a colorful annual and enjoy its long final burst of flowers. A Lantana Rose Live Starter Plant from Walmart should do the trick nicely.

7. Marigolds

If there's one flower that refuses to admit summer is ending, it's the not-so-humble marigold.

Garden centers are usually still well stocked with marigolds in August, making them an easy way to refresh tired containers, borders, or vegetable gardens. Once planted, they'll happily keep pumping out cheerful yellow, orange, and deep red blooms until the first hard frost with very little fuss.

I also love that marigolds earn their keep. They're excellent companion plants in edible gardens, attracting pollinators while adding bold color exactly when many summer flowers are beginning to slow down.

Shop Marigolds:

Now, it's important to remember that the beauty of late-summer planting is that there isn't one perfect flower for every garden. Your USDA zone, first frost date and growing conditions all make a difference.

If you're gardening somewhere with a long, hot growing season, don't overlook heat-loving favorites like angelonia, pentas, celosia and salvia. These flowers can handle the toughest weeks of summer and continue bringing color when many other plants start to fade.

In cooler climates, the smartest approach is often choosing fast-growing annuals or picking up established nursery plants rather than starting everything from seed. Marigolds, petunias, snapdragons and violas can all give you that fresh burst of color without needing months to establish.

Not to get all Ryan Gosling in The Notebook about it, but it wasn't over. And honestly? Neither is the gardening season.

Forget the classics; did you know you have a forbidden birth month flower?

Every year, without fail, I find myself looking up birth month flowers. I know perfectly well what mine is by now, but somehow I still end up reading every list I come across, nodding along as though I've uncovered a profound new truth about my personality. Then, before I know it, I'm halfway down another rabbit hole of birth month trees, birth month birds, birth month animals, birth month bugs – honestly, if someone can assign me a symbolic creature or plant based on the month I was born, I'm interested.

It's not just me, of course; we all like seeing ourselves reflected in nature. We like to believe there's a flower that captures our best qualities, a tree that shares our quiet strengths, or a bird that somehow understands us on a soul-deep level. Whether it's scientific or not hardly matters. It's comforting, it gives us another excuse to learn about the natural world, and it's fun... especially if you use it to lean into your dark side!

All 12 Forbidden Birth Month Flowers

That's right; lately I've found myself wondering about our shadow sides instead. Not the parts of ourselves we'd necessarily change, but the qualities that make us a little more mysterious, complicated, stubborn, passionate, or quietly rebellious. Every personality has one, right? So if every month has a traditional birth flower celebrating sweetness, hope, or friendship, surely there's a darker botanical counterpart waiting in the wings.

Enter stage left, then, the forbidden birth month flowers.

Some of these plants are poisonous. Some were prized by herbalists before becoming tangled up in folklore. Others have long been associated with witches, spirits, ancient myths, or whispered superstitions simply because they were unusual or misunderstood. Either way, I think we ca all agree that every last one of us deserves a flower with a little mystery...

January – Hellebore

If you were born in January, I can't imagine a better forbidden birth month flower than the hellebore.

While the rest of the garden is still asleep, hellebores are already flowering through frost and snow, earning nicknames like the Christmas Rose and Lenten Rose. They look impossibly delicate, but every part of the plant is poisonous if ingested. And, just like January babies everywhere, they survive difficult seasons not through noise or force, but through determination and staying power.

Go for something like the Frostkiss® Vibey Velvet™ Lenten Rose from Nature Hills if you want to grow your forbidden birth month flower at home!

February – Foxglove

Tall, elegant and almost impossibly beautiful, foxgloves have inspired fairy folklore for centuries. Legend claimed the tubular flowers were gloves for fairies or tiny lanterns lighting woodland paths.

The reality is rather darker; foxglove contains compounds that have transformed modern heart medicine, but the plant itself is highly toxic if eaten. So, what does that tell us about February babies? Why, that creativity is powerful – and so are you. Never underestimate imagination.

If you're going to do it, do it like Wham! would want and do it right. I love the Dalmatian Purple Foxglove from Walmart for its vivid purple blooms, if you're wondering.

March – Monkshood

March personalities are often thoughtful before they're outspoken, which makes sense, when you consider that their forbidden birth month flower is monkshood.

Its rich violet-blue flowers are among the prettiest in any perennial border, yet it's one of the most poisonous ornamental plants in the world. Also known as wolfsbane, it's been linked to myths involving witches, wolves and ancient hunters for centuries.

Buy yourself a pollinator-friendly monkshood from Walmart and watch your garden become a buzzing hotspot for bees and butterflies galore!

April – Bloodroot

I know, I know; at first glance, bloodroot looks wonderfully innocent, but don't let this forbidden birth month flower fool you.

The native beauty opens brilliant white blooms in early spring before disappearing back into the woodland. But snap the root, and a dramatic crimson sap appears almost instantly – the feature that inspired its unforgettable name and centuries of traditional use.

It hammers home the credo, then, of every April baby: never mistake gentleness for weakness. Pick up a pack of Bloodroot Native Wildflower Seeds from Everwilde, then, stat!

May – Lily Of The Valley

May is reliable, warm, and sociable – exactly the sort of personality people tend to underestimate. So, yes, naturally their forbidden birth month flower is much the same.

The tiny white bells of lily of the valley smell heavenly and look so beautifully innocent... but every part of the plant is highly poisonous.

There's a lesson in that, I guess; the kindest people are often stronger than anyone realizes. Bag yourself a Lily of the Valley Bare Roots Plant from CZ Grains, then, and channel that spectacular resilience in your own yard!

June – Belladonna

Few plants have a reputation quite like deadly nightshade. For centuries, belladonna was woven into stories of witches, cosmetics, medicine, and poison. Its glossy black berries and purple flowers have fascinated people for generations.

It makes sense, then, that it is the forbidden birth month flower for June. Because romantic, open-minded, and endlessly curious, June personalities are often drawn to mystery.

Belladonna reminds us that fascination and danger sometimes grow side by side – and that charm is a force all of its own. You can buy Belladonna Seeds from Walmart, but... be careful. Poisonous, remember?

July – Angel's Trumpet

Some flowers whisper, but angel's trumpet... well, the clue's in the name, folks! Those enormous trumpet-shaped blooms hang from the branches like chandeliers, releasing their sweet fragrance as dusk falls. And yes, every part of it is highly poisonous.

If any forbidden birth month flower belongs to July, I think it's this one. Bold, magnetic and impossible to ignore, it mirrors the warmth and confidence so often associated with midsummer personalities. Channel that and buy yourself an Angels Trumpet from Walmart, stat!

August – Oleander

If I had to crown one flower the survivor of the garden, it would be oleander.

It thrives where many plants give up, shrugging off relentless sunshine, poor soil and weeks of dry weather while continuing to flower as though nothing has happened. In warmer parts of the US, it's the shrub that keeps looking immaculate long after everything else has started to wilt... and that resilience? A trademark of August babes.

Its beauty comes with a warning, though. Oleander is one of the most toxic ornamental plants you can grow, a reminder that strength and softness can exist side by side. Pick up a Petite Red Oleander from Walmart, then, stat!

September – Autumn Crocus

There's something wonderfully confident about a flower that refuses to bloom until everyone else is packing up for the season, right?

Autumn crocus waits patiently while summer takes centre stage, only unfurling its elegant goblet-shaped flowers as the days begin to cool. It's a forbidden birth month flower which effortlessly proves that arriving late doesn't mean missing your moment – sometimes it's exactly what makes you unforgettable.

Beneath that graceful exterior lies a darker secret. The plant contains colchicine, making it one of the most poisonous flowering plants in cultivation. If you're willing to be careful, though, you can bag Saffron Crocus Corms from Amazon easily enough!

October – Castor Bean

If ever there were a forbidden birth month flower that proved beauty can be deceptive, it's castor bean. Gardeners grow it for its enormous burgundy leaves and striking scarlet seed pods, which give borders an almost tropical feel by late summer. Hidden inside those spectacular seed capsules, however, are some of the most toxic seeds found in any ornamental plant.

For analytical October personalities like yours truly, it feels like the perfect match. Thoughtful, composed and quietly unforgettable, it reminds us that appearances rarely tell the whole story. You can buy castor bean seeds at Walmart if you want to honor your floral shadow!

November – Crown Imperial

Few flowers command attention quite like crown imperial. Its fiery orange or golden bells hang beneath a spiky tuft of leaves, giving it a regal silhouette unlike anything else in the spring garden. For centuries, it's been surrounded by folklore, with one legend claiming the flowers bowed their heads in sorrow after witnessing Christ's arrest in the Garden of Gethsemane... and they've never looked skyward since.

Beneath all that grandeur lies a more mysterious side. The bulbs are poisonous if eaten, and the plant has a famously musky scent that many believe helps deter moles and rodents. Still, for determined November personalities, it feels like the perfect forbidden flower: proud, resilient and quietly unforgettable.

Try these Yellow Imperial Crown Flower Seeds from Amazon for a twist on the classic.

December – Moonflower

While most flowers close up as daylight fades, the moonflower is only just waking up.

As evening falls, this forbidden birth month flower's enormous white blooms slowly unfurl, glowing against the darkness and filling the air with fragrance before closing again with the morning sun. Catching one open almost feels like stumbling across a secret, and that fleeting beauty is exactly why I love it!

For optimistic, adventurous December personalities, moonflower is a reminder that some of life's most magical moments happen after everyone else has stopped looking. If you want your garden's brightest moments to happen after the sun has set, buy yourself some moonflower bush seeds from Walmart.

The more I researched these forbidden birth month flowers, the more I found myself wanting to grow them all. Traditional birth blooms celebrate the qualities we proudly wear on the surface. These celebrate something quieter – resilience, curiosity, independence, determination and the wonderfully complicated parts of ourselves that don't fit neatly into a greeting card.

Of course, many of these plants are genuinely toxic and should always be grown with care, especially around children and pets. But admired from a respectful distance? Why, then they remind us that the most captivating flowers are often the ones with the richest stories to tell.

And, sure, they add a little spookiness to the equation, too. What could be better?

Can you ever have too many flowers in your garden? It's hard to believe, but the answer may be yes. “Too many” in this context just means more than you wanted. Although self-seeding flowers may seem like a godsend the first few years, you may get tired of seeing the same darn blossoms filling your landscape year after year – especially in parts of the garden where you don't want them. Once established, they can be hard to get rid of.

Self-seeding plants do the work for you. You plant them once and then they reseed themselves and provide new blooms every year. But they often come back in even greater numbers and ultimately become hard to control or remove. You can prevent this issue by avoiding the flowers that self-seed most prolifically.

Here are five flowers that fit into that category. Be sure you love them before you plant them – because they’ll keep coming back for quite a while!

Self-Seeding Flowers You May Regret

Take a close look at this list of self-seeding flowers. If you love them and are certain you will love them forever, go ahead and plant them. Otherwise, find another flower to plant that doesn’t self-seed so freely.

1. California Poppy

This is a hard one for me to warn others about because I am totally in love with these vibrant orange and yellow papery blooms. California poppy (Eschscholzia californica) is California’s state flower and it takes my breath away to see fields and fields of these flowers in bloom.

Poppies look delicate, but they are in fact tough as nails. They bloom profusely in poor, dry soil, and when they die, they form long seed pods that scatter the tiny seeds everywhere. Their deep taproots allow them to survive even in periods of drought, but the same taproots also make the poppies hard to eradicate once established.

2. Sweet Alyssum

You may be familiar with this popular low-growing annual, with its sweet honey-like fragrance and tiny white, pink, or purple flowers. Sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima) creates a colorful carpet of small blooms to blanket your garden or landscape. They move from seed to flower in less than two months.

Alyssum’s finest moments occur in cooler weather – it blooms best in spring and fall. In the fall, this annual’s tiny seeds explode across the entire garden bed, sometimes falling into cracks and pathways as well. It is a highly prolific self-seeder that pops up relentlessly year after year.

3. Forget-Me-Not

Forget-me-nots (Myosotis spp.) are yet another plant that can be termed prolific self-seeders. These beautiful shade-loving flowers will create a magnificent low-growing cloud of blue flowers with yellow or white eyes in April and May. The blooms are small with five lobes and appear in dense clusters in springtime.

But forget-me-nots are more resilient than their delicate appearance may suggest. Once established, these lovely flowers look to their future. They drop innumerable dark seeds in late summer.

Their sticky seeds can travel on clothing or pets to reseed in new locations. They often drop enough seeds to reseed the original patch as well. Their valiant self-seeding efforts can create an unyielding carpet of blue in your landscape.

4. Columbine

Most of the tough self-seeding plants featured in this article look frilly and romantic at first glance. But few can equal the lyrical beauty of the ethereal and enchanting columbine (Aquilegia spp.) when it blooms from April through June.

This breathtakingly beautiful flower offers small bell-shaped blossoms with five petals nestled within five long backward-extending spurs. The petals can be red, pink, lavender, blue, yellow or white – or a combination of these shades. They have lacy, blue-green foliage that is also attractive.

But columbines bear seeds once they have flowered. As the seed pods dry out, they scatter their seeds freely. The tiny seeds can fall to the ground near the plant, but can also travel on the wind. They are quick to sprout whether they fall in full sun, dappled sun, or deep shade.

5. Johnny Jump-Up

Johnny jump-up (Viola tricolor) is a little, tricolor flower that makes people smile. The flower “faces” are cheerful shades of purple, yellow and white, and they appear on compact plants. These are also cool-weather plants, blooming best in the weather of spring and fall rather than summer.

Is Johnny jump-up a re-seeder? And how! It reseeds so freely that one small planting can carpet a bed with returning color for years. It can actually reseed and grow in virtually any location, so look for the flowers not just in garden beds, but along pathways, in gravel driveways, and even between stepping stones.

Shop Plant Control Must-Haves

You don’t need to compromise on good looks to grow a low-maintenance garden that practically looks after itself. Make some smart choices and you’ll enjoy more flowers and a tidier garden while simultaneously cutting time spent on chores. Sound too good to be true? It’s not, I promise, because this is how I’ve been gardening for the past decade.

It’s not that I’m a lazy gardener – though it is true that I like to spend just as many hours relaxing in my paradise of petals as I do maintaining it. I simply don’t subscribe to the gardening norm that you must invest months of work to be rewarded with a few weeks of flowers. No – I take advantage of horticultural short-cuts that are rooted in science to get more glorious blooms in return for less hard graft.

These are the four garden secrets behind my lovely but seriously low-maintenance backyard. Try one, try two, or try all four so you can put your feet up and enjoy your blooming backyard more often. Cheers!

1. Embrace Groundcover

If you don’t grow groundcover plants in your borders then you’re missing a trick. Using easy-grow groundcover plants that thrive on neglect won’t create any more work but will save you a heap of time. Not only does groundcover do a great job of suppressing weeds once it’s established, but it acts as a living mulch to lock moisture in the ground, meaning you don’t have to water as often either.

If you’re up for shearing off faded blooms or doing a quick prune now and then, then you can use groundcover that flowers for months on end to bring a whole new layer of blooms to your borders. There’s even a brand new groundcover hydrangea, if you really want to show off!

My go-to groundcover is creeping phlox as it’s polite enough to skirt around bigger plants yet persistent enough to effectively smother weeds, and its fragrance is as delightful as the flowers. I also grow Sedum ‘Angelina’ in my roadside bed, because while I always want this part of the garden to be presentable, I don’t want to out there in my raggedy garden shorts, keeping it that way. And honestly, I haven’t watered this green dream of a plant for over two years now, and it couldn’t be happier.

Adding groundcover to your garden needn’t be expensive, either. Because of their naturally spreading nature, most groundcover plants can be regularly dug up and divided to make new plants. Or if you’re really on a budget, choose groundcover that can be grown from seed in spring.

2. Discover Sterile Plants That Don’t Need Deadheading

Most plants grow flowers to be pollinated by insects so they form seeds and have a few shots at species survival the following year if they’re annual, or attempt to expand their kingdom if they’re perennial. Once they’ve set seed, these plants will slow down or even stop flowering completely – which is why we deadhead. Remove fading blooms forces the plant into having another go at making seed, so it produces fresh sets of petals.

Some hybrid plants don’t do this though. When two different plant species are crossed by breeders, the cells can’t always combine properly to form seeds in the new hybrid. The hormone signal that usually shouts ‘stop flowering now’ when seed sets never gets sent, and the plant keeps on blooming. And blooming. And blooming!

Some modern lantana cultivars such as ‘Lemon Drop', ‘Miss Huff’ and ‘New Gold’ are sterile, as are Angelonia (Summer Snapdragons). I grow heaps of Geranium ‘Rozanne’ whose violet blooms tumble through other perennials, and Gaura lindheimeri ‘Whirling Butterflies’ for swathes of flowers on high, wiry stems (it's good to know that this has recently been reclassified as Oenothera, if you’re struggling to find it online). Lavender ‘Grosso’ is another of my sterile favorites, as its long stems and fragrant flowerheads are perfect for crafting.

The other huge benefit is that sterile plants don’t gift you a gazillion unwanted seedlings to pull up in spring.

3. Add Self-Seeders That Need Light to Germinate

At the very opposite end of the spectrum are self-seeders. Now, some self-seeders are a godsend in a low-maintenance garden, sprinkling flowers through borders and quietly filling gaps. Others are a huge headache, germinating in swathes of new plants that can overtake a border.

The trick is to choose self-seeding plants that need light to germinate. This means seeds will only germinate where there’s room to do so, and also that you can simply fling them into a bed and pretty much forget about them.

I have cosmos, columbine and love-in-a-mist threaded through all my low-maintenance borders, and they happily squeeze in between bigger perennials. How much of any one variety I get very much depends on the weather, as some years suit some better than others. I cheat the system a little by cutting a few seedheads at the end of summer and giving them a good shake where I’d like more to grow, too.

4. Split Drought Tolerant and Deep Drinking Plants

Growing plants that have different moisture needs side by side means you’ll be forever faffing about with a hosepipe. Some plants will be wilting through lack of moisture while others complain about being overwatered with unsightly yellow leaves. The answer is to split up borders into drought-tolerant plants and those that need consistent moisture, so you never water unnecessarily.

I take a pretty relaxed attitude to gardening but this is where I get strict, and not just because I live in a dry part of the country that's nearly always on a hosepipe ban in summer. Giving plants the moisture levels they prefer makes a huge difference to them thriving, rather than simply surviving, and impacts how abundantly they flower and for how long.

I also train deep-drinking plants to become more drought tolerant by giving them more water, less often. Most plant roots will grow towards moisture so, by saturating the ground when you irrigate then leaving it to dry out, you encourage roots to grow downwards where they will be better-able to source their own water supply. Water every day with a light sprinkling and roots will stay at the surface where they’re far more vulnerable to drying out.

Bonus Move to Cut Lawn Maintenance in Half

Okay, so your lawn doesn't grow flowers but, as I'll wager that grass is the single most high-maintenance plant in your garden, cutting chores here means tons more time to appreciate your bloom-packed borders. For starters, setting your lawn up for a good season in spring will save you heaps of maintenance through the rest of the year. But right now, there’s a really easy way to speed up the time it takes to look after your lawn, and that’s to leave the mower clippings where they fall, as a mulch.

The tips of the grass blades that are snipped off every time you mow are full of nitrogen. So, rather than putting them on the compost pile or into the trash, let them break down to fertilize your lawn, as well as lock in moisture. Just be sure to mow when it’s dry so the clippings don’t clump together and, if you don’t have a mulching mode on your mower, mow regularly so the clippings are short.

This is how robot mowers work – and speaking of which, if you’ve ever thought about buying this ultimate time-saving garden device, now’s a great time to buy. Once midsummer is past – especially for models that have an updated design in the pipeline for the following year – products often heavily discounted, so there are usually good deals to be found.

The Best Mower Deals We Found

Is there such a thing as a good morning routine when it comes to gardening? Some might assume not, but I truly believe the opposite... especially when it comes to my roses.

Yes, if there's one plant I'll happily make time for before I've even finished my first cup of coffee (or tea, if I'm being honest – I can't deny my British roots), it's my roses. Which is just as well, because although my husband is a professional gardener, he absolutely hates hybrid roses. He's got plenty of reasons for it – and he's made them very clear over the years – which means the two hybrid roses growing in our garden were planted before the rule was instituted and are now entirely my responsibility.

I don't mind, though. In fact, I think they've become some of my favorite plants because I've had to figure them out myself. While my husband happily gets on with the rest of the garden, I'm the one checking my roses over like a doting plant mamma before the sun is only just getting itself into gear.

How Your Morning Routine Impacts Your Roses

Yes, there is no denying that checking my roses for thirsty soil, fresh blooms, and the first signs of pests has become as much a part of my morning routine as applying my moisturizer... but that doesn't mean spending half an hour outside every morning armed with secateurs and fertilizer and mulch. In fact, my rose routine usually takes no more than a couple of minutes.

I wander out with my cuppa in hand, have a look at the leaves, check the soil if we've had a dry spell, admire any new blooms (or sob internally if my tiny tearaway daughters have plucked a handful of petals for their mud kitchen again), and make a mental note if anything needs doing later.

It might sound like a tiny habit, but it's one I've come to rely on, because roses have a remarkable way of telling you exactly what they need – so long as you catch the signs early enough. A little wilting, the first few spotted leaves, or a cluster of aphids on fresh growth? All are so much easier to deal with before they become bigger problems. That's why I always check mine before the rest of my day properly begins.

The biggest lesson I've learned from shifting my morning routine to match my roses is that timing matters just as much as what you do. While you don't need to water roses every morning, checking them early in the day? Well, that gives you the best chance to spot problems and, if they do need a drink, to do it at the best time for watering plants.

Shop Rose Growing Essentials:

Morning is generally the best time to water roses because it gives moisture time to soak into the soil before the heat of the day arrives. If you water at the base of the plant early on, the roots can take up that moisture before temperatures climb and evaporation speeds up, and skipping an evening watering session means your leaves won't stay damp overnight (which can encourage fungal diseases such as black spot and powdery mildew).

My morning check is also when I spot the little things that can quickly snowball; aphids love tender new rose growth, and they're much easier to remove before they've colonized an entire stem. And I find it oddly therapeutic looking for yellowing leaves, damaged buds, or flowers that are ready for deadheading (is it just me who thinks of it as a mindfulness routine?).

Mind you, roses (whether we're talking about your birth month rose or just your average blooming beauty) aren't the only plants that can benefit from a shift in your morning routine...

Other Plants That Benefit From An Early Morning Check

1. Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas are usually quick to tell you when they're thirsty, and a deep morning watering is far more effective than trying to revive wilted plants in the afternoon heat, making them morning routine musts.

2. Dahlias

Dahlias also appreciate a quick early inspection. Morning is the perfect time to check for slugs and snails, spot leaves that need removing, and make sure the soil hasn't dried out during a hot spell.

3. Sweet Peas

If you grow sweet peas, there's another reason to head outside before your bowl of oatmeal (or porridge, if you're me!). Morning is the ideal time to pick flowers while they're at their freshest, and regular harvesting encourages the plants to keep producing even more blooms.

For me, spending a few quiet minutes with my roses before the day has even begun in earnest has become one of the easiest ways to keep them healthy, flowering, and looking their best all summer.

It also sets me up for a great day, too! Who doesn't love bouncing into their first meeting knowing that they've already ticked something off their to-do list, right?

I think we can all admit that there are some plants that put on a spectacular show and disappear almost as quickly as they arrived. I love both, of course (there’s something special about an annual that gives you a perfect burst of seasonal beauty) but the ones I appreciate most are the longest-blooming perennials. Aka the ones that keep going, forever and seemingly ever..

Yes, the real stars of the garden are the plants that are still flowering weeks after everything else has started to fade. The ones that handle the hottest days of summer, keep borders looking full, and carry the garden right through that tricky transition between summer and fall.

The trick to a truly beautiful garden is setting one up so it doesn’t need constant replanting or endless maintenance. And the best way to do this? By filling it with the hardworking perennials that quietly bloom for months, return year after year, and make the whole garden (nay, life in general!) feel more effortless.

The 7 Longest-Blooming Perennials

In the market, then, for the longest-blooming perennials? Well, these are the plants I turn to when I want reliable color that lasts. They fill gaps, support pollinators, and give me that wonderful feeling of looking out at the garden and realizing there is still plenty of life and color left, even after summer has faded and fall has wrapped the world in all her mists and mellow fruitfulness.

Without any further ado, then...

1. Asters

Asters are the perennial I’m always grateful for when summer starts winding down. Just when many plants are looking tired, asters step in with clouds of purple, pink, or white flowers that carry the garden right into fall.

They’re also one of the most valuable late-season plants for pollinators. Bees and butterflies rely on those blooms when many earlier summer flowers are finished, making asters a beautiful and practical addition to any garden.

I love that they don’t demand much attention either. Give them a sunny spot and a little room to grow, and they reward you with one of the best late-season flower displays around. Try the Grape Crush New England Aster from Nature Hills for big bold purple color.

2. Catmint

If I had to recommend one easy-care plant for almost any garden, catmint would be high on my list. Its soft blue-purple flowers appear for weeks, and with a quick trim after the first flush, it often rewards you with another round of blooms.

The silvery foliage on this longest-blooming perennial looks attractive even when it isn’t covered in flowers, and the whole plant has that relaxed cottage garden feel that makes a border look effortlessly beautiful.

It’s also wonderfully tough. Catmint handles heat, tolerates dry spells, and doesn’t need to be fussed over to look good (go for something like Walker's Low Catmint from Nature Hills if you want to make your life easier).

3. Salvia

Salvia is one of the longest-blooming perennials going, which means it is obviously a plant that earns its place every single year. The tall flower spikes add structure and color, and pollinators absolutely adore them (I have some outside my window as I type, and there are bees all over the stuff!).

I especially like perennial salvias because they keep producing those jewel-like blooms through summer with very little attention. They’re the kind of plant you can almost forget about – until you notice how many bees and butterflies are visiting.

With a little deadheading, many varieties keep sending up fresh flowers, making them one of the most reliable sources of summer color. All hail salvia!

Shop Salvia Below:

4. Coreopsis

If you want one of the longest-blooming perennials around, absolutely look to tickseed, because coreopsis brings the kind of cheerful color that instantly makes a garden feel happier. Those daisy-like flowers can keep appearing from early summer well into fall, especially when spent blooms are removed.

Modern varieties have made these plants even better, with improved flowering, compact growth, and colors that work beautifully in both borders and containers.

It’s one of those plants that makes gardening feel easy because it gives so much while asking for very little. Opt for all things bright and beautiful, then, and try Sunshine Superman Coreopsis from Nature Hills (on offer now, no less!).

5. Coneflower (Echinacea)

Coneflowers are one of those plants that seem to improve with age. They look beautiful in full bloom, but I also love leaving the seed heads standing later in the season because they add winter interest and provide food for birds.

They handle heat beautifully once established and bring a wonderful prairie-style feel to the garden. The flowers keep coming through summer, and they’re a favorite with pollinators.

For me, they’re one of those plants that look good at every stage – from fresh blooms to dried seed heads. And I know I bang on about it constantly, but the Magnus Purple Coneflower from Nature Hills is the way to go if you hate the droop that echniacea usually falls prey to.

6. Yarrow

Yarrow is one of those underrated plants that deserves far more attention. The flat flower clusters add a completely different shape to the garden, and the blooms seem to float above the foliage.

It thrives in heat, tolerates dry conditions, and doesn’t need perfect soil to perform. Once established, it’s exactly the kind of dependable perennial that makes a garden easier to manage.

I love plants like this because they quietly do their job while other, fussier flowers struggle. And, if you want one that looks like the picture above, you need the Strawberry Seduction™ Yarrow from Nature Hills in your life.

7. Geranium ‘Rozanne’

Geranium ‘Rozanne’ (aka hardy geranium) has earned its reputation as one of the longest-blooming perennials for a reason. It produces masses of blue-purple flowers and has one of the longest bloom periods of any hardy geranium.

I love the way it spills gently through a border, softening edges and filling gaps between larger plants. It feels natural rather than overly planned, which is exactly the look I often want in a garden.

It’s the kind of perennial that quietly works away for months, giving you color long after many other plants have finished. And Rozanne Hardy Geranium is 20% off at Nature Hills right now, too.

BONUS: And The Rest!

There are plenty of other perennials that deserve a mention on our list of longest-blooming perennials; agastache, for example, is a fantastic choice for sunny gardens, with tall flower spikes that hummingbirds and bees adore. Rudbeckia brings bright golden blooms and a cheerful late-summer display, while gaura adds airy majesty that seem to dance above the foliage.

Then we have penstemon, another excellent pollinator plant, and heliopsis delivers months of sunny yellow flowers with very little fuss. Which to choose, eh?

Shop Longest-Blooming Perennials Below:

The beauty of these plants is that they don’t just look good for a fleeting moment. The clue is in the name, folks; they earn their place by showing up year after year, filling the garden with color, and making summer gardening feel much easier.

A garden full of the longest-blooming perennials isn’t just beautiful – it’s a garden that keeps giving. Time to hop on the bandwagon, then; it just makes sense.

Every garden has those plants that everyone talks about. The ones that show up in magazine spreads, Instagram posts, and “must-have” lists year after year. And while I understand why some plants become favorites (look, I’m just as guilty of falling for a beautiful allium) I think there are a few underrated perennials that deserve far more attention.

Don’t get me wrong; alliums are incredible. I love their perfectly round flower heads standing above the garden, and honestly, I think they can look even better once the flowers have faded and those dried seed heads are catching the light. They add structure, texture, and that slightly unreal, almost alien look that makes a garden feel like a designer was involved in the planting plans.

But there’s another perennial I’ve come to love even more for the way it performs with so little fuss. It gives me those same dramatic globes of color, brings in pollinators, handles challenging summer weather, and asks for very little in return. In short, it’s one of those plants that makes you wonder why everyone isn’t growing more of it (seriously folks, why?).

The Underrated Perennial I Love The Most

I hate to admit my ignorance, but I first discovered this underrated perennial completely by accident. I picked up a few plants (no flowers, just optimistic stems) on a whim at a neighbor’s charity plant sale. There was no looking at the labels; I was just doing my bit to help their fundraising efforts.

As such, I had no grand plan for these plants; I just liked the look of them and thought they were worth trying. That small impulse purchase turned out to be one of the best decisions I’ve made for my garden.

Also known as African lily, agapanthus is one of those perennials that quietly earns its place year after year. In summer, those tall stems rise above the foliage with clusters of rounded flowers that look like they’re floating above the garden.

Mine? Mine produce beautiful white and purple globes that hover above the beds, creating exactly the kind of impact I love in a garden. They have height, movement, and a slightly exotic feel (read: that extra-terrestrial vibe I mentioned earlier) but they’re not difficult or demanding. They just... they just get on with the job of looking beautiful.

Honestly, one of my favorite things about agapanthus is how little attention it needs once established. It doesn’t require constant watering, it copes brilliantly with heat, and it keeps looking good through the kind of summer conditions that can leave more delicate plants struggling. I can count on one hand how many times I have tended to mine this year; the thick, strappy foliage has even stayed attractive in a steady run of very hot, very dry weather, and the flowers continue to provide that wonderful burst of summer color.

Need another reason to fall for this underrated perennial? Well, agapanthus is also a brilliant pollinator plant. Bees and butterflies are regular visitors when mine are in bloom, which adds another reason to love them. There’s something especially satisfying about planting something that looks beautiful while also giving wildlife a helping hand.

Shop Agapanthus:

Agapanthus works beautifully in borders, but it’s also fantastic in containers. In fact, growing it in a pot can make it even easier to manage, especially in colder areas where you may want to protect it over winter (mine is in the border, but I am aware I am lucky enough to live in a slightly easier USDA planting zone than most).

So, while I’ll always have a soft spot for alliums, I think agapanthus deserves to share the spotlight. It delivers that same dramatic shape and summer presence but with a level of toughness and reliability that makes it feel almost effortless. And if they can look this good in my frying pan of a garden right now? Then you absolutely need to give them a go, stat!

Used coffee grounds are often recommended as a natural fertilizer for many houseplants. But do orchids like coffee grounds? The answer isn’t a flat no. It depends almost entirely on which orchid is being discussed and how the grounds reach it.

A spent filter full of coffee grounds feels wasteful in the bin, which is probably how this idea got started. There’s real nitrogen in there. There’s organic matter too, along with years of internet advice insisting that acid-loving plants will thank you for the trouble. Orchids occupy an odd position in that conversation.

Two of those assumptions don’t survive much scrutiny, and the stakes are higher when fertilizing orchids than they would be when using coffee on tomato plants. It's important to understand that orchid roots evolved for conditions nothing like garden soil, and the medium in a typical pot serves a purpose that has little to do with nutrition. Get that part wrong, and the nitrogen content stops mattering.

Why Coffee Grounds Might Help Orchids

First up, I cannot overstate this: all types of orchids cannot rely on coffee grounds alone. They still need a specialist orchid fertilizer to provide the balanced nutrients they require. I like to use Better-Gro Orchid Plus 20-14-13, available from Amazon, which is urea-free.

But what if you're looking for a natural top-up? The nutrients in coffee grounds are genuinely there. Used grounds contain around 2 percent nitrogen by weight, with smaller amounts of potassium and magnesium alongside. They also add organic matter and hold moisture. Soil microbes break them down over time into something a plant can eventually take up. For a vegetable bed or home compost pile, that’s a decent contribution from something free.

The acidity claim is where the reasoning goes sideways. Brewing pulls the water-soluble acids out of the beans and into the cup, leaving spent grounds close to neutral, at around pH 6.5 to 6.8. Anyone using them to lower pH is banking on a property the grounds gave up in the machine. Whatever they do for an orchid, acidifying the medium isn’t it.

Are Coffee Grounds Suitable for Every Type of Orchid?

The answer hinges on one key distinction. Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis species) are epiphytes, as are Cattleyas, Dendrobiums, and Vandas. In the wild, they cling to tree bark, with their roots hanging in moving air. Those roots are covered in a spongy layer called velamen, which soaks up water in bursts and then needs to dry out. Orchid bark mix in a pot is an attempt to recreate those airy conditions; providing nutrition is not its primary purpose.

Terrestrial orchids play by different rules entirely. Bletilla striata, the hardy ground orchid, grows in ordinary soil outdoors in USDA zones 5 to 9. Lady’s slippers (Cypripedium species) and ladies’ tresses (Spiranthes species) also grow in the ground. Their roots encounter organic matter much as those of other perennials do, making this a very different conversation from the one happening in a bark-filled pot.

Nearly every argument about coffee grounds and orchids comes down to two very different types of plant being discussed as though they were one.

Why You Shouldn't Add Grounds Straight to Orchid Bark

Wet coffee grounds behave like silt. Sprinkled into a pot, they filter down between the chunks and pack into the gaps, turning an open medium into something that stays damp long after it should have dried. A bag of orchid bark, such as this Rosy Soil mix, which contains biochar and mycorrhizae to improve plant health, is coarse for a reason, and filling those spaces defeats the whole design.

What follows is fairly predictable. Fungus gnats (Bradysia species) can breed in the damp organic layer, while white, fuzzy mold may spread across the surface within a couple of weeks. Roots that need air remain wet instead and can begin to rot from the outside in. Caffeine residue is another unknown: it has been shown to inhibit root growth in a number of plant species, and it is not well established where orchids fall on that list.

The Safest Way To Use Coffee Grounds for Orchids

For epiphytic orchids in bark, a heavily diluted and thoroughly strained coffee-ground “tea” avoids the problem of solid particles clogging the mix. It is still an experiment rather than a dependable part of orchid care, however, as its nutrient strength is impossible to judge and traces of caffeine may remain. I don't recommend it, but if you're determined to try it, then only use it very occasionally on already-damp roots, discard it if it smells sour or fermented, and flush the pot with plain water at the next watering. A specialist orchid fertilizer should remain the plant’s main source of nutrition.

For soil-grown orchids, composting the grounds first removes most of the risks. Around six months in a heap or a Costway dual-chamber compost tumbler from Walmart allows microbes to break the grounds down into something crumbly and stable. Much of the caffeine will have degraded, and the nitrogen has already passed through the microbial process that would otherwise need to happen in the pot.

Keep the ratio sensible while it cooks. Grounds need plenty of brown material alongside them – dry leaves or shredded cardboard – since a heap built largely from coffee can turn slimy rather than breaking down cleanly. Once finished, that compost can be used sparingly around terrestrial orchids growing in soil. It still has no business in a container of bark, no matter how well composted it is.

Can Terrestrial Orchids Benefit From Coffee Compost?

Here the answer turns cautiously positive. A hardy ground orchid in a border has real soil under it, and the microbial community that comes with it. Work finished compost lightly into the surface, and it behaves as it would around any perennial. Structure improves. Nutrients arrive slowly, and the ground holds moisture further into summer.

Restraint is the whole game, though. A thin scattering once or twice a season does it, kept clear of the crown and pseudobulbs where trapped moisture starts rot. Uncomposted grounds piled on thickly cause something different – soil microbes go after that fresh carbon and pull available nitrogen out of circulation while they work. The plant goes hungry through the exact weeks it's putting on growth. That reverses eventually, but it can cost a season of flowering first.

Signs Coffee Grounds Are Harming Your Orchid

The medium tells you first. Bark still wet several days after watering has lost its drainage, and a white or gray bloom across the surface confirms it. A sour, fermented smell from the pot says the same thing. Small dark flies rising when the plant gets moved point at gnats breeding in there.

Roots give the clearest verdict, and a clear pot makes them visible. Healthy orchid roots look plump and silvery green when wet. Anything brown and soft has drowned, and a root that collapses under light pressure is past saving. Above the pot, watch for leaves turning yellow from the lowest ones upward, or a plant that stops producing new growth entirely for a season. At that stage, repotting an orchid into fresh medium beats waiting to see whether it recovers.

Coffee Grounds Aren't a Substitute for Orchid Fertilizer

Orchid feeds are formulated around a limitation that explains this entire question. Many are urea-free because urea needs soil bacteria to convert it into a usable form, and a pot of bark simply doesn't hold enough of them. The same microbial gap that rules out urea rules out coffee grounds even more firmly.

For epiphytes in containers, a weak solution at every other watering covers what the plant needs, with an occasional plain water flush to clear accumulated salts. Anyone determined to use spent grounds should compost them properly and spread the results around terrestrial orchids outdoors. Moth orchids on a windowsill do better with something formulated for the job.

Orchid Essentials

A great solution for heatwave summers, low-growing groundcover plants act as a living mulch to lock moisture into the soil and protect roots from extreme temperatures. And groundcover doesn’t need to be boring! These fabulously flamboyant flowering groundcover plants will bring months of beautiful blooms to borders, and keep your garden full of color into fall.

If it’s been a while since you looked at groundcover plants, you’ll be astonished to discover some dazzling new varieties that combine all the benefits of traditional groundcover with the ornamental delights usually only seen in far taller plants. There’s even a groundcover hydrangea for goodness sake!

So forget the usual fodder of forgettable groundcover and try a showstopper instead. Here’s my pick of the most eye-catching groundcover plants to keep your soil cool and your borders packed with blooms into fall.

1. Groundbreaker Hydrangea For a Sea of Blooms

• Zones 5-8
• Full sun to partial shade
• Grows 12-16" tall and 24-32" wide

Let’s start with the plant most likely to cause serious neighbor envy, shall we? Because if you plant this groundcover carpet of color-changing hydrangea blooms, expect everyone to ask what is! The fabulous new Groundbreaker series of hydrangeas brings all the beauty of the perennial blooms we all know and love to ground level. The world’s first-ever spreading groundcover hydrangea, this plant grows out instead of up, only reaching 12-16 inches high yet spreading up to 32 inches wide. Well-branched stems mean lots of conical flowers, and the blooming period lasts a whopping 100 days.

Launched two years ago, Groundbreaker hydrangeas only became available to buy in the United States in July 2026, and they’re proving hugely popular. And no wonder: growing panicle hydrangeas is straightforward to begin with, but these have been bred to be especially low maintenance.

So if you want one, you’d better be quick as these beautiful hydrandgeas are selling out fast. At the time of writing, all three Groundbreaker hydrangea varieties are available from Plant Addicts. Groundbreaker Blush Hydrangea has large white flower panicles in midsummer that gradually develop blush pink tones. Groundbreaker Ruby Hydrangea also blooms white but its flowers deepen to a rich ruby red, while Groundbreaker Greeny Hydrangea transitions the other way with blooms opening a bright lime green then gradually softening to a creamy white.

2. Drift Rose For Three-Season Color

• Zones 4-11
• Full sun to partial shade
• Grows 1-2' tall and 3' wide

The series of Drift roses are a cross between full-size groundcover roses and miniature roses, so while they’ll bring abundant color to a border, they won’t take over. These rebloomers produce wave after wave of flowers from spring till late fall and are self-cleaning, which means you don’t need to deadhead. They’re super-easy to look after, too, being highly resilient against common rose issues including black spot and powdery mildew.

There are all sorts of fabulous colors to choose from, and some have transitioning tones. In fact, the only downside to these low-maintenance roses is that they only have a mild scent, or no fragrance at all.

Nature Hills stocks a great selection of Drift roses. Popcorn Drift blooms a golden yellow and transitions to cream, while Coral Drift, Peach Drift and Apricot Drift also have color-shifting blooms in a variety of warm tones. Sweet Drift is a ravishing pink with around 30 petals on each flower, while Pink Drift has simple single blooms that are better for pollinators. Red Drift holds its bright scarlet color even in a hot summer.

3. Blue Waterfall Bellflower for a Designer Look

• Zones 4-8
• Partial to full sun
• Grows 6-10" high and 24-36" wide

There are lots of good things to say about this pretty plant, but perhaps its finest asset is that it’s often employed by landscape designers, so instantly brings a professional look. While Campanula poscharskyana ‘Camgood’ is typically housed in a pot or a hanging basket, its trailing stems make excellent groundcover, speedily spreading around larger plants.

And this little perennial is sure to attract attention with its ice-blue star-shaped flowers that last through summer into fall.

While this perennial grows quickly, it doesn’t run out of control, and happily thrives in pretty much any soil, as long as it gets at least 5 hours of sunlight a day. The small, bright green heart-shaped leaves are super-pretty, too. Blue Waterfall Bellflower plants are available from Plant Addicts.

4. Firewitch Dianthus For a Small Garden

• Zones 3-9
• Full sun
• Grows 4-8" high and 1' wide

Yes, small gardens need groundcover too! Firewitch dianthus makes for brilliant groundcover in a small garden as it’s incredibly well-behaved but works hard to form a dense, weed-blocking mat of pretty silvery-blue leaves. With a flurry of pink flowers all through spring and summer – and fall, if you shear off faded blooms – Dianthus gratianopolitanus was bred to give maximum color for minimum effort.

What’s more, the spicy, clove-like scent of the flowers is a wonderful addition to hot summer days, while the foliage is evergreen in most climates.

Each plant spreads to around a foot wide so, depending on the size of your border, you’ll need to add a few, and single and multi-pack Firewitch Dianthus plants are available from Fast Growing Trees.

5. Silvery Sunproof Liriope For Rippling Leaves

• Zones 6-11
• Partial shade
• Grows 1-2’ high and wide

This variegated monkey grass forms clumps rather than spreads, so it makes excellent groundcover to underplant a border of bigger perennials or shrubs where controlling a more vigorous plant would be tricky. This drought-tolerant plant can even cope in dry shade once established, so it won’t mind a jot that trees and shrubs are sucking most of the moisture out of the soil.

The striped leaves are evergreen in most climates and, in midsummer, purple flower spikes add to the show and last through fall. Liriope ‘Silvery Sunproof’ plants are available from Nature Hillsand are tolerant of pollution so will thrive roadside, and is even rated as Firewise in several states. While monkey grass typically needs partial shade to thrive, this variety tolerates sunlight far better than most others.

6. Cool Wave Pansies For Instant Cheer

• All zones
• Full sun or partial shade
• 6-8" high and 24-30" wide

These little gems light up a tired border and don’t be fooled by the dainty, delicate appearance – they're tough cookies and bloom for months on end. In fact, this is one of the longest-blooming pansies available. While pansies are typically planted in patio pots and hanging baskets, this is a trailing variety so spreads to form groundcover in a border and quickly but politely fills gaps between bigger perennials. Pansies can be planted in summer in zones up to 9, so put this on your list of July garden jobs.

How Cool Wave pansies behave will depend on your climate, but they’re an excellent way to bridge the summer-to-fall gap in all zones. In zones 5 through 11 they’ll survive the winter: in zones 5-6, they’re dormant through winter but bounce back in spring; in zones 7-9, they’ll bloom pretty much continuously through all four seasons; in zones 10-11, wait for the intense heat of summer to pass before planting for endless cool-season flowers. In cooler zones 4 and below, treat these beauties as annuals and plant afresh each spring.

Pansies prefer cooler conditions and will fade in hot temperatures so, in a hotter zone, plant in a partially shady spot that doesn’t bake in the midday sun; in cooler zones, it’s fine in full sun.

Pansies can be challenging to grow from seed so it’s best to skip straight to the good bit with young plants. Cool Wave Morpho pansy plants are available from Burpee in a striking purple-blue and yellow combo, and the color intensifies as temperatures drop. Cool Wave Raspberry Swirl pansy plants are also available from Burpee, with a pretty mix of rosy, golden tones.

7. SunSparkler Dazzling Dynamite Sedum for Low Maintenance

• Zones 4-9
• Full sun
• Grows 4-8" tall and 1-2' wide

If you want to add color to a border without upping the workload, Sedum ‘Dazzling Dynamite’ should be your go-to solution. This well-behaved low-growing perennial is extremely heat- and drought-tolerant once established, and while pollinators love it, deer typically don’t touch it. That burgundy-red foliage is vibrant enough on its own, but when topped with bright pink flowers through summer and fall, SunSparkler Dazzling Dynamite Sedum is a real showstopper.

Unlike some sedums that fade in summer heat, this keeps its color well, and Dazzling Dynamite plants are available from Nature Hills. The succulent leaves slowly spread to form a dense mat, even on poor soil, making this one of the most low-maintenance groundcover plants you can get.

A successful outdoor space keeps blooming continuously from spring through fall, depending on the local climate. Not only does this provide you with ongoing color and visual interest, but it also feeds your local pollinators. Step outside on a warm July afternoon, and your yard likely feels like a thriving, buzzing haven. However, this midsummer abundance can hide a quiet crisis for native wildlife.

As early spring perennials fade and summer heat accelerates flower burnout, nectar availability drops. For worker bumblebees storing winter reserves, native solitary bees feeding late broods, and monarch butterflies fueling for their migration, this summer gap can seriously reduce feeding opportunities. This is why it’s crucial to make sure you have pollinator plants available for the next couple of months.

What you (and your pollinators) need are resilient bloomers that thrive in warm soil and flower continuously until frosts arrive. By growing these now, you provide an essential lifeline for visiting pollinators for weeks to come. These gorgeous plants reward your efforts with minimal ongoing care, vibrant color, and lasting visual structure. Grow these summer-to-fall nectar-rich bloomers for your bumble queens and migrating monarchs, and you’ll keep them nourished well into the fall.

Grow Pollinator Flowers in Summer

A continuously flowering yard attracts local bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies. So now is a great time to plant a few late bloomers that can service your pollinating community. If you’re planting in USDA hardiness zones 3-9, it’s all about minimizing transplant shock and establishing strong root networks quickly. Summer soil is warm, but it also dries out rapidly. Remember native late-bloomers prefer sunny spots. Give these plants 6-8 hours of direct light for maximum nectar and pollen synthesis.

Clear away competing weeds and break up compacted earth, down to 8 inches (20 cm). Most heat-tolerant pollinator plants dislike soggy roots. Use a soil meter like the XLUX Long Stem Soil Moisture Meter Sensor from Amazon to check your soil’s existing moisture levels. Mix some organic compost, perlite or coarse sand into heavy clay soils to balance water retention with good drainage.

When planting container-grown starts, water the hole deeply before setting the plant in, topdress with a couple of inches of organic mulch, and water deeply every morning for the first fortnight until you see new growth. All this will prime your new plants to develop fast and last for longer, while preventing overwatering.

Don't forget your foraging pollinators also need a little drink. It’s a nice idea to set up a shallow hydration station to support them. You can buy a cute ceramic puddler, like the Bee & Butterfly Drinking Flower from Uncommon Goods, which is lovely for thirsty bees, butterflies, and beneficial wasps. It gives them a safe perching spot to sip clean water as they enjoy these late-summer blooms.

1. Coneflowers

It’s hard to go wrong with the cheerful coneflower. While traditionally purple (Echinacea purpurea), newer cultivars offer a wealth of colors, which bloom from midsummer through fall in zones 3-9. Encased in brightly toned petals, each spiky, copper disk is packed with nectar. American Beauties Native Purple Coneflowers from Plant Addicts are favorites of specialist native bees. Other butterfly-friendly coneflowers include Fragrant Angel, Ruby Star and Magnus Purple Coneflowers from Nature Hills.

Plant in full sun and well-draining soil. Deadhead any spent blooms in July to spur a second flush. Leaving the dried, seed-heavy cones intact through winter will also feed hungry birds like American goldfinches. Topdress with a gentle feed, like Espoma Organic Flower-tone Blossom Booster Plant Food from Walmart in midsummer. This supplies a steady supply of potassium and phosphorus for late-season flowers.

2. Asters

Asters are some of the most crucial late-season food sources for migrating monarch butterflies fueling up for their southward journey, as well as pre-hibernation queen bumblebees. Asters can be grown in zones 3-8, depending on the type. These colorful flowers bloom reliably in late summer, and through fall in most places. Choose native species like New England aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae), when possible. You can buy Hirt’s Gardens Wood’s Pink Asters from Walmart and Perennial Farm October Skies Asters from Amazon, to enjoy a long bloom timel.

New England asters provide a massive blanket of rich jewel-toned color. They develop dense clusters of purple, magenta, and deep pink flowers centered around bright yellow disks. Grow them in full sun for the most flowers. They prefer moist, well-draining soil rich in organic matter. You can add a little crab meal to the soil around your asters to boost structure. Down To Earth Organic Crab Meal 4-3-0 from Amazon can help tall aster varieties build sturdy stems to withstand heavy rain.

3. Sedums

Also known as stonecrop, this is a fall favorite for the magical color transformations some varieties make. Several sedum varieties bloom with clusters of flowers that extend through fall. Some, like Hylotelephium spectabile Autumn Joy, Autumn Fire, and Brilliant, change from pale pink to deep red as the season progresses. It’s a great show for you, and a steady food supply for your pollinators. Buy Clovers Garden’s Autumn Joy Sedum from Walmart as live plants for faster developing star clusters.

These wide, flat flower landing pads make nectar accessible to short-tongued beneficial insects, honey bees, hoverflies, and painted lady butterflies. Succulent, exceptionally hardy, and practically indestructible in zones 3-9, tall border sedums are quintessential late-season foundation plants. They grow well in dry soils and full sun. If your soil is clay based, add some coarse sand or a little Hoffman Organic Cactus and Succulent Soil Mix from Walmart.

4. Joe Pye Weed

If you’re looking for a statuesque flower for your late-season pollinator garden, try this native perennial. Joe Pye weed (Eutrochium purpureum) thrives in zones 4-9 and can grow to 7 feet (2 m) tall. Its nectar-rich clusters of pink-purple flowers burst into life as many others are fading, and are irresistible to swallowtail butterflies, clearwing hummingbird moths, and native bumblebees. Buy American Beauties Little Joe from Plant Addicts for the fluffy pink landing pads that butterflies love.

Place this giant in a spot with moist, rich soil and full or partial sun. Don't allow the soil to dry out completely in heatwaves, as drought can cause lower leaf scorching. Applying an organic liquid kelp soil drench during heat spikes delivers vital trace vitamins and minerals that protect these large-leafed perennials from drought stress and leaf scorch. Buy GS Plant Foods Organic Liquid Kelp Extract from Walmart.

5. Cosmos

Not all late-season bloomers need to be perennials. Cosmos (C. bipinnatus) attracts plenty of bees and butterflies well into fall. This annual flowers profusely with good care. The open ray design makes nectar instantly accessible for smaller native solitary bees, hoverflies, and monarchs. Start best-selling Sensation Mix Cosmos from Eden Brothers for easy-access blooms to service pollinators at the far end of summer into fall. Nectar-rich Bright Lights and Sonata are also great options.

Cosmos are easy to start from seed. These feathery beauties develop in 7-8 weeks in full sun and well draining soil. Deadhead frequently to keep fresh blooms coming well into fall. While you shouldn’t add high-nitrogen fertilizers, you can condition the soil with a little biochar, such as Wakefield Premium Biochar Soil Conditioner from Lowe's. This helps soil retain water and nutrients without over-saturating roots.

6. Zinnias

Another pollinator-friendly annual to try is the exuberant zinnia (Z. elegans). These vibrant, structural beauties are easy to grow from seed and develop quickly. Sow them in July and they’ll be blooming by September. Wide petals attract large butterflies like monarchs, swallowtails, and skippers, while the bright florets draw honey bees and bumblebees. Large-flowered varieties like Benary's Giant and State Fair offer sturdy stems and exceptional resistance to summer heat and humidity. Buy California Giant Zinnia Mix Plants from Walmart for a combination platter pollinators will adore.

Plant in full sun and harvest regularly. The more you cut, the more buds the plant sets. Zinnias keep flowering as long as the weather cooperates. These vivacious bloomers do require good air circulation to stay clear of powdery mildew. Add a splash of Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide from Amazon to protect foliage from mildew and leaf spot without harming visiting bees or butterflies.

Shop Pollinator Blooms

Getting your garden ready for hungry pollinators in the heat of midsummer is as easy as 1-2-3, so make some room for this trio. By selecting hardy, weather-ready bloomers and perennials designed to take warm soil in stride, you can plant today with total peace of mind. These hand-picked selections are built to settle in fast, hold their ground through late-summer heatwaves, and deliver effortless, high-impact blooms that will feed your local pollinators straight through to the first fall frosts.

Multi-Season Sensations

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Groundbreaker Hydrangeas are a brand new type of hydrangea that bring a sweep of showstopper groundcover blooms to your garden. Just launched in America this July, these plants are selling out super-fast – and no wonder! The conical flowers last for 100 days and slowly change color for a sweep of multi-toned petals, and well-branched stems make for abundant blooms. And this striking summer show returns year after year for very little effort.

Growing out rather than up, Groundbreaker Hydrangeas only reach 12-16 inches high but spread 24-32 inches wide. Being a panicle hydrangea makes it low-maintenance to start with, but these resilient, reliable bloomers are particularly easy to grow. Unlike trad hydrangeas, these plants don’t need staking and are straightforward to prune, too, even for beginner gardeners.

Suitable for zones 5-8, this low-level beauty can be grown in borders, containers, and as path edging. Its neat size makes it ideal for compact gardens and urban yards and, as quick and clever ideas for container gardens go, it's a winner! Those horizontal-habit stems will cascade from a tall planter or large hanging basket, too. Already one of the biggest garden trends of 2026, because Groundbreaker Hydrangeas are so versatile as well as hassle-free, these perennials make great gifts – for yourself as well as family and friends!

What are Groundbreaker Hydrangeas?

Groundbreaker hydrangeas are the world’s first groundcover hydrangea series. Bred from panicle hydrangeas in the Netherlands by Dutch breeder, Alex Schoemaker of Living Creations, this breeding breakthrough is an entirely new, innovative form of the popular shrub we all know and love. The Schoemaker family has been growing hydrangeas for six generations, and Alex specialises in Hydrangea paniculata. His goal? To develop new formulas with stronger stems, more colors and longer lifespans.

The low-growing habit of this hydrangea series first came about by chance during the pursuit of these objectives, when a particularly short plant cropped up among many, many hybrids in the test fields. In time, three cultivars of this new hydrangea form were developed, all with the trademark cone-shaped flowers of Hydrangea paniculata but with that groundbreaking groundcover habit.

Groundbreaker Blush Hydrangea

Blush was the first Groundbreaker hydrangea to be bred in 2017, and was launched in 2024, becoming available to UK gardeners in 2025. Large white flower panicles bloom in July and gradually develop deepening blush pink tones, and the plant grows 12 inches high and 24 inches wide.

Groundbreaker Greeny Hydrangea

Greeny followed, with flowers opening a bright lime green and petals gradually softening to an elegant creamy white. A little larger than Blush, Greeny grows to 16” high and 32” wide.

Groundbreaker Ruby Hydrangea

Ruby was released for the 2026 season. This stunner’s blooms emerge white and slowly transition to a rich ruby red, and it grows to 16 inches high and spreads to 28 inches wide.

Where to Buy Groundbreaker Hydrangeas

While it takes many years to bring a new plant to market, US availability has lagged behind that in Europe because of import restrictions, but plants finally became available in July 2026.

Only released through a few speciality retailers, Groundbreaker Hydrangeas are pretty hard to get hold of, making them the hottest botanical ticket in town right now. At the time of writing, all three varieties – Blush, Ruby and Greeny – are available to preorder for October shipping from Plant Addicts. But you’d better be quick if you want one!

While it’s galling to have to wait a few months to get your hands on such a fabulous plant, a fall planting is far less stressful for any shrub, but particularly a hydrangea that likes to stay hydrated. The benefits of planting a hydrangea in fall are plentiful, but first and foremost, you’ll give your new hydrangea plenty of time to make itself at home and sink its roots deep into the ground before it faces the stress of summer heat, next year. A strong root system means a far more bountiful display of blooms, too.

How to Grow Groundbreaker Hydrangeas

Groundbreaker Hydrangeas are one of the easiest to grow when it comes to essential hydrangea care. These plants need full sun or partial shade, with a minimum of four hours of sunlight a day, and well-drained soil. This is easily achieved in the ground by mixing compost into the soil before planting, either homemade or a product such as R&M Organics Premium Compost, available from Amazon. In a container, use an all-purpose moisture control potting mix such as Miracle-Gro Moisture Control Potting Mix, available from Walmart.

While plants will need regular watering while they establish, mature plants will only need irrigating during prolonged dry periods. Plants in containers will need more regular watering.

Most hydrangea care happens in spring. Like all panicle hydrangeas, Groundbreaker blooms on new wood. This means it needs a hard-prune in March – exact timing will depend on your zone but do it before the first buds break. Pruning is simple: all stems should be cut to 8 inches above the ground using a pair of bypass hand pruners such as Fiskars All Steel Bypass Hand Pruners from Lowe's.

Minimal feeding is needed, but a light liquid seaweed fertilizer such as TPS Seaweed Fertilizer, available from Amazon, in early spring can be beneficial. A yearly natural mulch in March will provide all the necessary nutrients and help to keep moisture in the soil and insulate roots from temperature extremes.

Hardy down to -22, Groundbreaker hydrangeas are suitable for zones 5-8, where they don’t need any winter protection. For full groundcover, plant in staggered rows at plant width intervals, or further apart if you want separate mounds.

Trends come and trends go, and we’re not just talking heel heights and skirt lengths. Today, social media can bounce the popularity of a vehicle, a child’s toy, and even a species of dog in hours, and lots of folks will head out in search of one. And yes, this applies to garden plants as well. Garden trends and flower trends appear in a flash, only to get whisked away when something else blows into the limelight. Remember when manicured landscaping was all the rage? How about living walls?

Hyper-trendy ornamentals are often bred for viral shock value rather than real-world hardiness. When a temperamental trend-plant crisps up in a heatwave or succumbs to summer humidity, you’re left with a patchy border and plenty of disappointment. Chasing novelty requires constant intervention, and relentless fussing. So why not catch your breath and make some room for the plants that resonate beyond the trends – those flowers, perennials and shrubs that are always… just right?

We are here to advocate for the elegance and endurance of the forever classics that effortlessly outlive flash-in-the-pan trends. These timeless garden icons have done the heavy lifting in countless yards for years, and refuse to be categorized or treated as fads. While these “oldies but goodies” might appeal to trend-lovers for their vintage luxury, they are both a practical and a lovely choice for growers in any decade. Offering multi-season beauty, natural weather tolerance, and permanent curb appeal, it’s time to meet the anti-trend plants.

Grow Anti-Trend Forever Plants

For growers who have jobs, kids, friends, relationships, places to go and things to do, there’s a lot to be said for the garden classics. Timeless plants have survived generations of fluctuating weather patterns, shifting soil dynamics, and pests. They often offer deep root systems that cope with short droughts, and reliable flower power that attracts native pollinators year after year. So by stepping off the trend treadmill, you swap high-maintenance anxiety for effortless, multi-seasonal beauty.

Can you plant these classics during the height of summer in July? You bet, provided you give them time to establish. Depending on your growing zone and local climate, midsummer heat means root systems need a little support ahead of autumn. Before planting, check your site’s moisture retention and drainage with the help of a good soil meter tool, like the XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon.

Heavy clay holds excessive water, while overly sandy soils let nutrients wash straight through. A little perlite or coarse sand can help improve drainage, while sprinkling organic matter (such as aged compost) in the planting hole can cushion young roots against thermal shock. After planting, add a 2-inch (5 cm) layer of organic mulch such as Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch from The Home Depot to suppress weeds and regulate temperatures. You’re then ready to meet the lush and lovely plants that have stood the test of time.

1. Old-Fashioned Bleeding Heart

The trending gift for Valentine’s Day is the heart-leaf hoya (H. kerrii), a single, plump green succulent that, over time, develops into a vine of succulent hearts. It’s cute, but it doesn’t have the style or history of an old-fashioned bleeding heart. Ask your grandparents if their childhood garden included these flowers (Lamprocapnos spectabilis, formerly Dicentra spectabilis). This unusual and eye-catching plant was called the finest hardy perennial of the 19th century.

Today, this dainty ornamental is a favorite of the perennial shade garden. It’s easy to grow, blooming profusely in early spring and early summer, with heart-shaped flowers dangling from arching stems. Plant old-fashioned bleeding hearts in a part-shade location in zones 2-9. Pair its soft, weeping silhouette with structured companions like broad-leafed hostas, Japanese painted ferns, or astilbe. You can buy Old Fashioned Bleeding Heart from Nature Hills as live plants.

Plant in partial to full shade, keeping it sheltered from afternoon sun. You can add Down To Earth Organic Crab Meal (4-3-0) from Amazon for a slow-release soil amendment that builds resilience. The flowering season ends when summer warmth rolls in. Cut back the leaves and stems as they wither, and reduce watering as the plant goes dormant, and you will see these enchanting hearts again next year.

2. Oakleaf Hydrangea

Oakleaf hydrangea (H. quercifolia) is not one of those trending hydrangeas that shoots up in a matter of months or has neon shades, like Let's Dance Rave. Instead, this native deciduous shrub grows slowly, topping out at 4-8 feet (1.2-2.4 m) tall with long-lasting flower clusters. They appear snowy white, fading to antique rose. For extra wow factor, the leaves are shaped like oak leaves. Unlike other hydrangeas which can flop in the heat, the oakleaf is a uniquely tough North American native.

These varieties just need well-draining, acidic, nutrient-rich soil. Water well in June and add a thick layer of mulch to keep the soil moist. An organic feed, such as Espoma Organic Holly-Tone Fertilizer from Walmart, helps to keep foliage lush and healthy. This shrub handles drought and heat far better than trendy mopheads once established in zones 5-9. For the timeless lacey look, try Snowqueen, Snowflake, or Proven Winners Gatsby Glow Ball Oakleaf Hydrangea from Fast Growing Trees.

3. Purple Coneflower

I’ve noticed a trend this year for soft pastels. Faded Petal, a blush-gray hue, was named as Garden Media Group’s 2026 Color of the Year. But I say, go for bright purple! Gardeners of old loved purple coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea) for all the reasons they are considered easy-care perennials today. As species plants, they are hardier than recent hybrids, and give wildlife better access to nectar and seeds. Flowers appear in midsummer and last right through the growing season. They may not be trendy, but they are tough and pretty.

You can buy American Beauties Native Purple Coneflowers from Plant Addicts for large tufty orange cones flanked with bubblegum purple petals. These classic perennials just need a site with direct sun and well-draining soil in zones 3-8. Water well if the weather is dry. A little Down To Earth Organic Fish Bone Meal (3-16-0) from Lowe's can also help forge deep root development for continuous midsummer blooms.If you deadhead early flowers in June, it encourages extra blooms later in summer. Leave some late fall seed heads intact for wintering goldfinches.

4. Common Lilac

Lilac (Syringa vulgaris) has been part of cottage gardens for centuries, so it makes sense that it isn’t considered trendy. Rather, it’s an old-fashioned and long-lived flowering shrub, beloved for its fragrant blooms. The species plant can grow to 16 feet (5m) tall and 12 feet (4m) wide, with soft purple flowers blooming in May. Hardy across USDA zones 3-7, a well-sited lilac bush routinely outlives the gardener who planted it. You can buy Common Purple Lilac from Fast Growing Trees as live plants for a generous, low-maintenance bloomer that butterflies adore.

These shrubs just need 6-hours a day of direct sunshine and loamy, well-draining soil. If it is hot, give them a deep drink from time to time. If you’d like to improve ground conditions, you can buy Wakefield Premium Biochar Soil Conditioner from Lowe's to improve aeration, balance drainage, and prevent nutrient leaching. Just don’t prune late in the summer or fall, or you’ll accidentally be cutting off next spring’s exquisite floral display. Instead, prune within two weeks after blooming finishes.

5. Peony

Calling peonies (Paeonia spp.) old-fashioned classics is a bit of an understatement. They are among the oldest species of plants and have been grown in Asian gardens for thousands of years. After the colonists brought the first peonies to America, their popularity grew quickly, and by the early 20th-century, they were adored by many. These days, there’s so much to love about a peony. Producing heavily scented blooms, from silk-like singles to lush, ruffled doubles, they bring unmatched luxury. And the plants belong in your will, since they can live longer than their owners. If you’re stuck for choice, you can’t go wrong with hot pink Paeonia ‘Kansas’ or fluffy mammoth ‘Sarah Bernhardt’, both available from Plant Addicts.

Peony plants require little maintenance, if you plant them in a proper location. They just need at least six hours of sun, shelter from winds, and deep, fertile, moist soil in zones 3-8. Peonies bloom from late spring through early summer. Don’t cut back green foliage right after flowering finishes, but let the leaves stand to gather energy for next year's display. Peony foliage can be susceptible to powdery mildew and botrytis blight. Spray a little bio-fungicide, such as Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide Concentrate from Walmart, to keep leaves in good shape through fall.

6. Nasturtiums

With succulents trending as easy-care filler plants this year, you aren’t likely to see photos of nasturtium on Instagram. But these old-fashioned classics are as vibrant and long-flowering as they come. My grandmother grew nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus) in New Jersey, her grandmother grew them in Poland, and now I grow them in San Francisco and France. This cottage garden classic with its bright bugle blooms, can grow almost without any effort. The seeds are big, they germinate within a week, and they flower through fall. Oh, and they reseed readily in zones 9-11.

For an elegant, classy twist on the conventional (very lovely) tones, there are some lovely heirloom options, such as salmon soaked Vesuvias, available from Eden Brothers as seeds. Or, if you can’t decide on one color, opt for Supernova Mixed Nasturtiums, available from Burpee as seeds, for a rainbow of abundant petals. Nasturtiums delight in poor, lean soils where other ornamentals struggle. Where soils are compacted or heavy clay, just add a few scoops of coarse sand, or Hoffman Western Desert Sand from Walmart, into the planting site.

7. Lavender

Graceful, understated, instantly identifiable, and effortlessly elegant, lavender (Lavandula) is like the Audrey Hepburn of your yard. It doesn't rely on gimmicks, just structured foliage, silvery stems, and fragrant flower spires that delight the local bees and butterflies. For compact borders, pathway edging, and cold winter hardiness, English lavenders (L. angustifolia) like Hidcote and Munstead are perfect. If you have muggy midsummers, grow lavandins (L. x media) like Phenomenal, which is resistant to winter dieback, root rot, and humidity, while producing oil-rich flower wands that fill the air with scent. Buy Southern Living Phenomenal Lavender from Fast Growing Trees.

Thriving across zones 5-10, this Mediterranean native loves lean soil. Plant it in full, unshaded sun and sharply draining soil. If your ground is heavy clay, mix in some coarse sand. Cut back stems by one-third after blooming to maintain a tight, bushy mound, but avoid cutting into old woody stems. To keep your plants thriving year after year, just sprinkle a small handful of a gentle all--purpose feed like Espoma Organic Plant-Tone Plant Food from Amazon around the base. Pair with coneflower or ornamental grasses for a sunny border that never goes out of style.

Shop Anti-Trend Essentials

Selecting resilient, time-tested perennials and shrubs midsummer is just the beginning of an epic love affair that can last a lifetime. And now is a great time to start with these plants. By skipping delicate trend-plants in favor of proven, weather-hardy classics, you can cultivate an inviting, high-end layout that matures beautifully with every passing year. So why not establish your yard's forever style today?

Timeless Trio

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

The right peony care in July will have a huge impact on how well your plant flowers next year. Now your peony is done flowering for this summer, it gets busy making and storing the energy it needs to grow the next set of glorious blooms. Help your plant with this task, and you’ll be richly rewarded with even more beautiful ruffles of petals next spring.

Once July's glorious show of opulent petals is over, it’s all too easy to forget about your peony plant for the rest of the summer. And without targeted midsummer care, your peony will still flower next year. But, with the right nurturing, you’ll support your plant to grow the biggest, blousiest blooms, ever. The right summer care is especially important this year, as there’s no telling how long this heatwave will last, and heat-stressed plants will prioritise basic survival over another season of bountiful blooms. And why miss this opportunity when giving your peony the care it needs in July is quick and easy?

July peony care isn’t complicated, but these four simple tasks will help your plant through the stress of high summer temperatures, and allow it to focus on storing the fuel it needs for fabulous flowers next year.

1. Prune Spent Flowers to Grow Stronger Roots

The vast majority of peonies begin to form seeds in leathery pods as soon as flower petals start to fade. This uses lots of energy that could be put towards growing a bigger root system to provide for more abundant flowers next year. So, your first priority when it comes to summer peony care is to snip old blooms off. Use a sharp pair of bypass pruners to deadhead peonies – and do sharpen the blades first if you haven’t for a while, because clean cuts are easier for the plant to heal – to snip off the stem just above the first healthy leaf below the faded flower.

To avoid pests and fungal disease, it’s best to put snipped flowers in the trash rather than letting them drop to the ground.

Intersectional (Itoh) peonies and a few modern hybridized peony cultivars are sterile so don’t produce seeds, but it’s wise to still deadhead these both to keep your plant tidy and avoid disease.

2. Clear Dead and Damaged Leaves to Avoid Disease

Peonies are susceptible to several fungal diseases, which stress the plant. A diseased plant will use up valuable energy fighting the infection, affected leaves won’t be able to photosynthesize, and left untreated, some fungal diseases can even kill it. Fungi are able to lie dormant over winter, too, directly affecting next year’s blooms.

While botrytis blight, often called peony blight and gray mold, usually attacks in spring, you may spot powdery mildew on peonies in summer, with leaves looking like they are dusted with fine white flour. If peony leaf blotch, often called peony measles, went undetected in spring, you may also see this in July, too, when the small red spots will start to merge into dark, irregular patches (pictured above).

Gather up any leaves that have fallen to the ground as well as removing dead or damaged leaves from the plant, and dispose of them in the trash to avoid reinfection. It’s also important to wipe pruners with disinfecting alcohol such as MaxTite 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol from Amazon between cuts. Identifying the peony disease will determine if you need to take any further precautions.

Leave healthy green foliage in place for now as all these leaves act as solar panels through summer and into fall, photosynthesizing to produce energy that will be stored in the plants fleshy tubers, ready to power next year's growth. Wait until the foliage has died after the first frost, before pruning herbaceous peonies in late fall.

3. Water Deeply Once a Week

Established peonies are relatively drought tolerant, which makes it easy to skip over these plants in your watering round. But if you're wondering how to get bigger peony flowers next year, irrigation is a critical part of your care plan. Right now, the plant is using all that energy it’s making with its leaves to grow a stronger root system but, from next month into fall, it will begin forming microscopic, embryonic buds called ‘eyes’ just below the soil surface. These eyes will lie dormant all winter and, next spring, burst into life, throwing stems upwards with baby flowerbuds already formed.

Think of these summer months post-flowering as bud-planning time, and you’ll understand why keeping your peony hydrated now will lead to a better display of blooms next year.

However, it’s important to water peonies properly, giving your plants a weekly deep soak rather than a daily sprinkling. Irrigating deeply so water penetrates deep into the soil encourages the root system to follow the moisture downwards, making the plant more resilient; daily light watering leads to weaker, surface-level roots. Because peony roots are fleshy tubers, restricting watering to once a week at most ensures the soil doesn’t become waterlogged, when tubers may rot.

Young or recently planted peony plants that haven’t yet grown a strong root system, and peonies in containers, will need watering more often.

Water the soil rather than getting the leaves wet, to reduce the risk of fungal infection.

4. Improve Nutrients and Moisture With a Mulch

The final step of what peonies need in July is a 2-inch layer of mulch laid on the soil surface to help lock moisture in. You can use any natural material such as homemade compost, leftover all-purpose potting soil or a purpose-made mulch. The advantage of using a natural mulch is that nutrients will be washed into the earth to slowly feed the plant, and the organic matter will eventually rot down to improve the soil structure for healthy growth.

Use a bow rake, spreading the mulch with the tines then flipping the rake over to level the mulch with its flat edge.

It’s important not to swamp the centre of the plant with mulch, as a crown that’s buried too deeply won’t flower well, and organic material holding water against stems can lead to rot. Peonies have wide rather than deep root systems so spread the mulch around the plant, keeping it away from the central stems.

The Common Mistake That Could Harm Your Peony in July

It might seem sensible to feed your peony in July, to give the plant more energy to form those all-important roots and eyes, but don’t be tempted. Fertilize your peony now and you won’t be doing the plant any favors.

For a start, peonies are light feeders and the general rule of thumb is not to fertilize this plant unless you have a reason to. While it’s usual – though by no means essential – to feed peony plants in spring, once those beautiful fresh red shoots are around 2-4 inches tall, feeding in late summer can interrupt the plant’s natural cycle. Fuelling new growth at this point in the year may interfere with the plant’s preparations to go into dormancy in fall.

While some folk do fertilize immediately after flowers fade, feeding this late in the summer – even with a lower-nitrogen fertilizer – will encourage the plant to waste energy on new leaves rather than storing it in its tubers, ready for next spring. That extra foliage growth can leave a plant more susceptible to fungal disease once wetter weather arrives, too.

A natural mulch will give your peony all the nutrients it needs, without any extra fertilizer. If you’re at all worried about your peony, or think the plant is showing signs that it’s not getting all the nutrients it needs, then don't fertilize 'just in case'. Instead, test your soil to find out exactly what the problem is, with a lab-based soil test kit such as Sta-Green from Lowe’s.

Peony care in July is all about keeping your plant happy and healthy so it can put all its energy into growing next year's buds and a strong root system to support them. Deadheading, removing damaged leaves, watering deeply and mulching will ensure your peony has everything it needs to flower beautifully next spring. While you'll have to wait a while for the results, the fabulous flowers will be well worth your efforts.

Next up, give your dahlias the care they need in July to grow bigger, longer-lasting blooms. It's another quick July gardening job that has a huge impact on the quality of your flowers.

Many people assume that flowering plants can be neatly divided into two categories: those that bloom and rebloom throughout the season, and those that only bloom once. The truth is a little more complicated. Careful deadheading of the first wave of fading flowers can trigger a rebloom on a few so-called one and done flowers.

An ornamental flower isn't just blooming to make your yard look pretty – it is flowering to reproduce by setting seeds. Once pollination occurs and seed heads form, the plant receives a signal that its seasonal work is effectively complete, causing it to transfer energy into seed maturation. By stepping in with some well-timed snips, you interrupt this cycle.

These cuts trick the plant into believing its mission is not over, driving it to develop a vibrant bonus round of fresh blooms. So don’t fret about summer’s charms fading all too soon. You can cheat the system and secure a stunning second flush of blooms with this simple, well-timed trim.

Simple Snips for Reblooming

First, it helps to know which flowers will not rebloom, no matter what cuts you make. These include peonies, oriental poppies, irises, and true lilies. With the plants you cab cut in summer, timing is key: you need to avoid trimming plants back while they’re still actively blooming. But you also don’t want to wait until the spent flowers have developed seeds to deadhead, as then it’s too late.

A good pair of sharp pruning shears is your best friend for extending summer blooms. Slicing through tender stems with dull, rusty blades creates ragged, bruised wounds that invite bacterial rots and fungal infections. For soft-stemmed bloomers, use precision shears, scissors or snips. Our team rates the Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Shears from Amazon for clean, surgical snips. Cut right above emerging nodes so you don’t tear surrounding foliage.

USDA hardiness zone also impacts timing. In USDA zones 3-5, trim in early July to give the second flush enough warm days to flourish ahead of late fall and first frosts. Meanwhile, in the south, summer soil conditions can be parched. Trimming in a drought can be stressful for plants. Always give your borders a deep watering 12-24 hours before you deadhead. Water again after trimming, especially on hot days. Avoid feeds with excess nitrogen, which encourage leaves rather than flowers.

1. Delphinium

Delphinium (aka larkspur) is beloved for its dramatic, tall spikes of early summer flowers. But these statuesque perennials (hardy in zones 3-7) fade way too quickly, and if left alone, they won’t rebloom. So it’s tempting to think they are true one-and-done flowers. But you can get a secondary flush if you cut the first spent flower spikes to the base, or to where you can see a side shoot forming. Do this after the flowers fade and before they develop seeds, and you’ll get secondary spikes.

While the secondary flush won’t be the same towering columns as the first wave, these bewitching blue spires will look stunning alongside late-season ornamental grasses. If you neglect to deadhead them, the plant will produce unsightly brown seed pods, rapidly declining into a tatty mound. To nourish that second wave, mix a few spoonfuls of phosphorus-rich Down to Earth Fish Bone Meal from Lowe’s into the surrounding topsoil immediately after deadheading.

2. Roses

There are a few different categories of roses, including modern types that have been bred to rebloom throughout summer. Older rose varieties generally only bloom once, though, unless you do some attentive deadheading. If you have an older variety that only gives you one flush of flowers, trim back spent blooms as soon as you see the flowers fade. You should get a small additional rebloom late in the season.

When tackling classic shrub, old garden, or hybrid tea roses, the way you deadhead matters. Rather than simply snapping off the faded flower head, follow the stem down to the first leaf axis with 5 leaflets. Make a clean 45-degree cut, one-quarter inch (0.6 cm) above this outward-facing bud. If left untrimmed, roses grow decorative but energy-consuming rose hips, shutting down future flower production. To help roses bushes bounce back from summer heat stress, treat them to a bi-weekly application of Neptune's Harvest Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer from Amazon.

3. Catmint

Catmint (nepeta) is a perennial that gives a spectacular flush of purple flowers in early summer. Hardy down to zone 3, it is a joy for low-stress gardening. But once the flowers are spent, you’re left with a mess of floppy stems. When you see the flowers fade in midsummer, cut the entire mound back to about half its height. Grasp the floppy outer stems and shear the entire mound into a tight, neat dome using sharp hedging shears. It is very forgiving and responds well to this simple trim.

If you don’t deadhead, you’ll wind up with a sprawling, messy center that looks untidy for the rest of the year. Water well after trimming for a vibrant second round. Nepeta prefers lean, poor soils, so avoid heavy fertilizers. Instead, enrich the bed with Worm Bliss Premium Earthworm Castings from Amazon. This slow-release treatment boosts moisture retention while encouraging a lush second wave of lavender-blue.

4. Coreopsis

Also known as tickseed, coreopsis is a cheerful perennial that blooms abundantly in early summer. But when the spent blooms go to seed, they look messy. Coreopsis can keep blooming well into fall and responds well to deadheading. Do this regularly, whenever you see spent blooms. Treat threadleaf varieties like catmint and shear the top third of the plant away once the first massive wave finishes.

For large-flowered varieties, use micro-tip snips to cut spent stems down to the nearest healthy side bud. You might find it helps to add some Hoffman Organic Cactus and Succulent Soil Mix from Walmart around the root zone for drainage. Follow up with a sprinkle of Dr Earth Premium Gold All Purpose Fertilizer from Amazon as the optimum foundation for non-stop color well into fall.

5. Salvia

Salvia is a popular perennial that gives a dramatic profusion of early-season flowers in shades of blue and purple. Perennial salvias (such as 'May Night' or 'Caradonna') thrive in zones 4-9, and are loved for their rich texture and high drought tolerance. Once they fade, the plant can look messy, but the show doesn’t have to be over. Right after the first flush fades, trim plants back by one-third. When deadheading, locate the main stalk and cut it down to the base, where you’ll see new shoots.

If you don’t deadhead, these vibrant spikes dry into brittle black sticks that ruin the neat look of your borders. After deadheading, water deeply and add a light feed. New flower spikes should appear in weeks. Because dense salvia clumps are highly susceptible to powdery mildew, keep the foliage healthy with a little Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide Concentrate from Walmart. This protects the new, emerging leaves from fungal pathogens without harming the local pollinators that will drop by.

6. Garden Phlox

Once the large clusters of flowers stop blooming on this hardy perennial (Phlox paniculata), it’s easy to assume that’s it. But as soon as your garden phlox looks spent, trim back the flower clusters, cutting just above the upper leaves. The second flush triggered by deadheading will consist of smaller, more delicate terminal flower clusters, extending your color window by up to four weeks.

If you leave the old heads intact, they drop inferior, non-true-to-color seedlings that can crowd out your original.Keep your deadheaded plants well-watered and add some fertilizer to encourage side shoots to develop where you’ve made cuts. To stop your phlox drying out during its secondary bud formation, dress the soil surface with a good organic mulch, like Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch from Amazon. This locks in vital root moisture and shields the soil from intense summer sun stress.

7. Shasta Daisies

These pretty daisies flower in spring and summer. Shasta daisies are tough in zones 5-9, but they turn a muddy brown as they fade. And once they fade, they look unsightly, and turn into seedheads if you leave them in place. Instead of letting that happen, cut spent Shasta daisy (Leucanthemum × superbum) flower stems to the base or a side bud. Do this regularly as each individual flower fades. Keep the plants watered to encourage fresh growth, and remove any foliage that goes yellow.

Slide your shears down the flower stem to where it connects to the foliage clump, making your cut hidden. Plants push out dense growth to support secondary blooms, so they are highly vulnerable to drying out. Give your Shastas a deep drink, and add a handful of Espoma Organic Chicken Manure from Walmart. This provides the slow-release nitrogen punch required to fuel fresh white blooms through to first frost.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Spring purchased garden mums are the best choice for a colorful autumn display and the promise of a return after winter. But don’t neglect mums this summer if you want to ensure lots of blooms in the fall. Even if you dutifully pinch their growth back for a compact shape, there is more to do.

To encourage the most blooms on your chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum x morifolium), summer care is important. Preventing drought stress, providing ample nutrients, shaping your plant, and eliminating pests, plus a few other easy tasks will ensure your plants are full of flowers in fall.

Mums are offered for sale in late summer and fall, already in bud, but growing mums beginning in spring brings the best return on investment. Often the mums sold in fall are only for seasonal decorative use. So learning to grow your own mums and care for them during every month is the ideal way to get huge autumn blooms.

July Mum Must-Do Tasks

Mums planted in spring should be well established by now and receiving ongoing care for pinching, fertilizing, watering, mulching, and controlling pests. These tips will see your mums through July and beyond.

1. Pinch Plants

Pinching the growing tips on mums starts in spring when the plant is 6 inches (15 cm) tall. Pinch plants again when the newly formed side branches are 6 to 8 inches tall or every four to six weeks. Stop pruning mums by mid-July to allow buds to form. Pinching too late could delay flowering.

To pinch mums, just grasp the tip of each stem above a leaf node and pinch off half an inch to one inch (1.25-2.5 cm) of stems and leaves. Snippers or hand pruners work, too, for trimming. These Felco pruners are a favorite of our gardening experts.

Prune your mum into a rounded shape to keep it tight for fall. Pinching back the stems will force side shoots and keep the plant shorter and well branched for a compact shape with more stems for blooms.

2. Fertilize for Flowers

If you fertilize your mums in spring with a slow-release fertilizer, it should last through July. If the foliage looks lackluster now, you can apply a side-dressing of an organic fertilizer, like this one from Miracle-Gro.

Some prefer a liquid fertilizer, such as 5-10-10 or 10-10-10, which can be applied monthly in July. Follow the label instructions for the correct amount, but you will either need to mix it with water before application or apply it around the root zone then thoroughly water it in.

There are different schools of thought on what fertilizer ratio to use, so establish your own regimen on what works for your plants. If the mums are getting long and lanky, however, they are receiving too much nitrogen fertilizer. Once the buds have formed, you should stop fertilizing.

3. Water Well

Overwatering or underwatering can both sound the death knell for mums. Too much water promotes root rot and too little water results in drought stress. Water mums deeply, but wait till the top of the soil is dry to water again. Avoid wetting the leaves, which can promote fungal issues.

Consistency is key here. Keep the mums well hydrated throughout the summer to avoid drought stress, which can inhibit blooming. A simple drip irrigation system, like this one from Home Depot that Content Editor Laura uses in her garden, ensures plants get water at the base where they need it most.

4. Add Mulch

Mulching is important to moderate the soil temperature during the peak of summer heat, which often occurs in July. Mulch also helps retain an even moisture level and controls weeds. If you neglected adding mulch in spring, do it now so the summer heat does not dry out the soil too quickly.

5. Keep an Eye on Pests

Keep an eye out for pests on your mums as well as your other plants. If you water by hand, that is a good time to scout for intruders. Mums are commonly affected by aphids, which are oval-shaped, sap-feeding insects. Leaf miners are another common problem. They are tiny fly larvae that tunnel through leaves. Spider mites are the other top pest on mums. They are practically invisible, sap-feeding arachnids.

Aphids are large enough to see on the underside of leaves and new shoots, usually in groups, feeding on leaves. Damage includes stunted plants, distorted leaves, and honeydew, which is a sticky substance left on leaves. Control them with blasts of water, insecticidal soap, or neem oil, both of which you can get on Amazon. However, beneficial insects such as ladybugs and their larvae, often control aphids naturally without your intervention.

Leaf miners create noticeable winding tunnels through the leaves. They are difficult to control because they are inside the leaves. Remove the leaves as soon as you see the trails and discard them in the trash. Pick up any dropped leaves and discard in the trash.

Spider mite damage shows up as speckling on leaves from their feeding and fine webbing between stems, on flower buds, or on the undersides of leaves. To control spider mites use forceful sprays of water at regular intervals, insecticidal soap, neem oil, or a miticide. If the infestation is severe, remove the affected leaves and stems.

By following these tips, your mums should be compact, thick with healthy stems, and full of buds by late summer to fall, depending on the variety and your planting zone. Once your mums are in glorious bloom, pinch off the faded flowers and you will be rewarded with successive blooms.

If you asked me to name the hardest-working flower in the summer garden, I wouldn't even have to think about it. It would be marigolds.

Sure, they're cheerful (it's impossible not to smile at those sunshine-yellow, fiery orange, and deep gold blooms), but marigolds are also one of those rare plants that seem to excel at just about everything. They're super easy to grow, shrug off blazing summer heat, keep blooming for months on end, and happily slot into vegetable patches, cottage gardens, containers, and borders without ever looking out of place.

Honestly, I probably associate marigolds just as much with early fall as I do with summer. While plenty of annuals begin to fade when the weather turns hot or the season starts winding down, marigolds simply keep going.

Marigolds also happen to be fantastic companion plants, attracting bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects while being widely believed by gardeners to help discourage certain garden pests – including squirrels. (Results may vary depending on your local squirrel population!)

Their resilience and long bloom season have made them a staple in American gardens for generations, too, and if their résumé ended there, I'd already be sold. But new research from the University of Georgia suggests these humble flowers have another remarkable talent hiding in plain sight... and it could change the way we think about them altogether.

Marigolds Have a Surprising Superpower, Scientists Say

Researchers at the University of Georgia recently discovered that a single marigold flower contains roughly the same amount of protein as a cup of quinoa, alongside antioxidants, dietary fiber, and essential minerals including calcium, potassium, and iron.

Even more intriguingly, proteins extracted from marigolds remained stable at high temperatures and showed properties that could make them useful in future food products, from baked goods to salad dressings.

Rather than encouraging everyone to start snacking on their flower beds, the researchers see marigolds as a promising sustainable ingredient for the future. Billions of dollars' worth of ornamental flowers are discarded every year, and finding new ways to use them could help reduce waste while meeting growing demand for plant-based protein.

"What excites me most about this research is that it challenges how we think about flowers," said Fidele Benimana, a doctoral student involved in the study. "Most people see marigolds as ornamental plants, but they also contain proteins with unique functional properties that could be useful in food formulation."

Which Marigolds Are Safe To Eat?

Only certain kinds of marigolds are safe to eat. The University of Georgia researchers studied Calendula officinalis, commonly known as pot marigold, an edible flower that's long been used in teas, soups, salads, and herbal remedies.

The petals have a slightly peppery, citrus-like flavor, while the stems and leaves tend to be much more bitter. The researchers also note that some Tagetes marigolds are edible, but not every ornamental variety is suitable for eating. Which brings me to another important point: if you're planning to grow edible flowers, don't use blooms from garden centers.

Why? Well, many ornamental plants may have been treated with pesticides or other chemicals that aren't intended for food crops. Instead, grow edible varieties yourself from seed or buy plants specifically sold for culinary use; we rate the Calexis Yellow Calendula Seeds from Burpee (or, if you prefer a flame-colored hue, the Calexis Orange Calendula Seeds).

Shop Edible Flower Seeds:

All that being said, even if marigolds never become the next big superfood, I don't think they'll be leaving my garden anytime soon. How many other flowers can brighten borders for months, thrive through the hottest days of summer, welcome pollinators into the garden, and be so easy to grow, right?

The idea that these familiar blooms could also one day contribute to more sustainable food systems is just an added bonus. If only because it's proven once and for all that you should never underestimate a humble favorite.

I love summer gardening… right up until the moment my plants start looking like they’ve had enough. And I can't really blame them; my garden is currently hotter than a frying pan and even my oldest and most faithful plants are finding it tough to put on a brave face... other than my favorite drought-tolerant blooms, that is.

Considering this is one of our hottest summers in decades, I doubt it's just me who finds that leaves drooping in the afternoon sun, flowers fading faster than you can deadhead them, and every trip outside becoming a mental calculation of which plants need water first. Because, when temperatures climb and dry spells stretch on, even the most carefully planned garden can start to look a little tired.

The solution? Other than leaning hard into rain harvesting, slow watering hacks, and mulching, of course? Choosing plants that are built for the conditions.

These 6 Drought-Tolerant Plants Stay Lush All Summer

Some flowers seem to come alive when the weather gets hot, positively thriving in spite of blazing sunshine and long dry periods without rain. And many of them bring an extra bonus, too: they’re beloved by bees, butterflies, and other pollinators.

That’s why I always have a soft spot for drought-tolerant blooms. They’re colorful, reliable, and wonderfully low-maintenance, a holy triumvirate which means I can spend less time worrying and more time enjoying my garden.

So, if your yard has started feeling less like a relaxing outdoor retreat and more like a frying pan every summer, these are the hardworking flowers I recommend planting. Good luck!

1. Salvia

If there’s one drought-tolerant bloom that seems designed for summer, it’s salvia. With tall spikes of vibrant blooms and a remarkable ability to handle heat and dry conditions, it has been quietly replacing lavender on the block as the hot new perennial that brings instant energy to borders, containers, and pollinator gardens.

One of my favorite things about salvia is that it looks delicate but behaves like a garden workhorse. Once established, many varieties can keep flowering through the hottest months, attracting bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds along the way.

There are hundreds of varieties to choose from, with blooms ranging from deep purple and blue to pink and red, making it easy to find one that suits your space.

Shop Salvia:

2. Coneflower

Coneflowers are one of those plants that make a garden feel instantly happier. Their daisy-like blooms add cheerful color through the height of summer, but their real superpower is how little they ask in return.

Once established, coneflowers are impressively drought-tolerant, standing tall through hot weather while continuing to attract butterflies and bees. They also offer something for the garden beyond flowering season, as their seed heads can provide food for birds later in the year.

They’re proof that a tough plant doesn’t have to sacrifice beauty. As ever and always, I recommend the Magnus Purple Coneflower from Nature Hills for those who want drought-tolerant blooms that won’t droop in the heat.

3. Coreopsis

If you want a flower that keeps the color coming in obscenely hot weather, coreopsis (aka tickseed) is hard to beat. Its cheerful yellow, pink, or red blooms seem to appear nonstop throughout summer, creating a bright display even when conditions become challenging.

Coreopsis thrives in sunshine and handles dry spells well once established. It’s also wonderfully versatile, working just as happily in cottage gardens as it does in containers or along pathways.

For me, it’s one of those plants that quietly earns its place every year because it simply gets on with the job. Go for something like the PERMATHREAD™ Red Satin Coreopsis from Nature Hills if you want satiny red blooms, yellow fall foliage, and a perennial that pollinators instantly brand the hippest, most happening spot in the neighborhood.

4. Yarrow

I have some degree of self-awareness, I assure you; I know that I write about the myriad benefits of yarrow more than is strictly necessary. And yet, while this drought-tolerant bloom might not always get the same attention as roses or hydrangeas, it deserves a place in more gardens.

With flat clusters of tiny flowers and delicate, fern-like foliage, it brings a softer, more natural look while still being incredibly tough. It can handle heat, drought, poor soil, and plenty of neglect – exactly the qualities you want when summer weather becomes unpredictable. It’s also a favorite among pollinators, adding even more life to your garden.

All hail yarrow, then! Especially when it looks as good as the Strawberry Seduction™ Yarrow from Nature Hills.

5. Sedum

Sedum is the drought-tolerant bloom I turn to when I want something that looks beautiful without needing constant attention. Its thick, water-storing leaves help it cope with dry conditions, while its clusters of tiny flowers provide late-season interest when many summer blooms are beginning to fade.

From low-growing ground covers to taller varieties that add structure to borders, there’s a sedum for almost every garden style. And as a bonus? Many varieties look fantastic even when they’re not flowering, thanks to their interesting foliage and architectural shape.

The Angelina Sedum Rupestre Plant from Burpee is widely considered one of the easiest plants to grow. Or, if you prefer something with a little more drama, go for the Steel the Show Sedum from Nature Hills; those pink blooms should see you through fall.

6. Blanket Flower

Bright, bold, and practically made for sunshine, blanket flower is exactly the kind of drought-tolerant bloom you want when your garden starts feeling the heat.

Its vibrant red, orange, and yellow blooms bring a burst of summer color, and it can continue flowering for months with the right conditions. It’s also remarkably tolerant of heat and drought, making it a favorite for gardeners who want maximum impact with minimal effort (aka me; I refuse to feel any shame over this).

The name itself feels fitting, as these cheerful flowers have a way of spreading across a garden like a colorful blanket. Something like the SpinTop® Orange Halo Blanket Flower from Nature Hills will bloom from spring til frost in Zones 5-9, in fact, making it a must-grow.

Shop Blanket Flowers Below:

I guess all I really need to remind you is this: a heatwave shouldn’t have to mean a tired-looking garden. In fact, by choosing drought-tolerant blooms that naturally love sunshine and can cope with less water, you can create a garden that stays colorful, supports pollinators, and requires far less maintenance through the hottest months.

What could be better, quite frankly?

Purple flowers lift a tired garden border from forgettable to fabulous, fast. By layering blooms with different shades of purple, contrasting flower shapes and foliage textures – a simple garden design trick that delivers maximum visual impact with minimal effort – you’ll quickly take your yard from lacklustre to lovely. No wonder, then, that purple flowers are an important part of how landscape designers use color in gardens..

Green and purple combinations alone provide a strong base for a border but one of purple’s greatest strengths is its unrivalled knack to harmonize with other colors. Purple flowers adapt to almost any garden mood from calming and elegant to bold and exuberant. Even better, many purple flowers are magnets for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, making your yard feel as lively as it looks. So, whatever your garden palette, you really should be growing some purple blooms.

For a serene, cohesive look, purple combines beautifully with cool tones of blue, silver and soft pink to create borders that feel relaxed and dreamy. For stronger contrast and energy, purple appears vivid and luminous against yellow and lime green. Purple flowers threaded through warm orange, burgundy, or rich red blooms creates a dramatic, jewel-toned border, too.

So, whether you have a sprawling backyard or a compact urban plot, look no further for a curated collection of long-flowering, purple perennial plants that will help you build the most beautiful garden border yet. From tall, dramatic bloomers that add height and structure to easy mid-border plants that tie a look together, these purple picks will keep your beds bursting with color for months and, with a little TLC, well into fall.

1. Velvety-Spired Salvia

• Zones 3-8
• Full sun
• Flowers May-October
• Grows to 2' high and wide

Salvias earn their place in any garden by doing something many plants promise but few deliver: looking spectacular for months while asking for very little in return. Yes, salvia is one of those super-useful flowering plants that look like you spent hours gardening but practically grow themselves.

Our top pick of purple salvia varieties is May Night, and plants are available from Nature Hills. Electric violet-purple flower spikes rise like floral fireworks above tidy mounds of fragrant foliage, bringing bold color and a cool, saturated tone that makes neighboring plants glow. This bloom is especially gorgeous threaded through roses, coneflowers, catmint and ornamental grasses.

Pollinators absolutely adore it and, once established, May Night handles heat and dry spells with impressive resilience, making it perfect for sun-baked borders, cottage gardens, pollinator patches and low-water landscapes.

When growing salvias, well-drained soil and sunshine are a must. May Night starts blooming in late spring but snip off faded flower spikes after the first bloom flush and it will roar back for an encore throughout summer and into fall.

2. Fabulously Frilly Aster

• Zones 5-9
• Full sun
• Flowers July–October
• Grows to 1-2' high and wide

If your garden border needs long-lasting color and a lot less fuss, Honeysong Stokes Aster is an easy win. This compact perennial is beloved for its big, fluffy lavender-purple flowers that look like fringed pincushions that keep on coming through summer. The glowing blooms are powerhouses for butterflies and bees, making a border buzz with activity.

What makes Stokesia leavis ‘Honeysong’ especially handy in a border is its tidy, mounded habit. This aster stays nicely contained, slotting beautifully into the middle of a border without flopping everywhere or swallowing nearby plants. The soft green foliage also creates a calming backdrop that plays well with bolder flowers and ornamental grasses.

Honeysong Stokes Aster plants are available from Nature Hills. Surprisingly tough, this variety needs full sun and well-drained soil, and it’ll reward you with loads of flowers and very little drama. It handles heat and humidity better than many asters, and deadheading spent blooms encourages even more flowering.

3. Beautifully Scented Rose

• Zones 5-11
• Full sun
• Flowers May-October
• Grows to 2-3' high and wide

Roses are already garden royalty, but Ebb Tide is extra special on account of its deep, smoky purple blooms. Shifting between plum, velvet violet, and dusky magenta depending on the light, this rose variety also has an incredibly rich, spicy clove scent that drifts through the border, stopping you in your tracks every time you pass by.

But the biggest reason why Rosa ‘Ebb Tide’ is such a winner in a garden border is that it adds drama without stepping into high-maintenance diva territory. It stays relatively compact and, like most roses, mixes beautifully with perennials. Pop these dark blooming roses next to some contrasting silvery foliage or lighter flowers for a layered, designer look.

Like most roses, Ebb Tide loves full sun and appreciates good air circulation to keep foliage healthy. Water deeply rather than constantly sprinkling, and add mulch to keep roots cool and soil moist. Key rose-care tasks during the growing season, such as deadheading and a little feeding, will keep blooms coming. Ebb Tide roses are stocked by Nature Hills.

4. Oh-So-Purple Clematis

• Zones 3-9
• Full sun
• Flowers June-August
• Grows to 3-5' high and 2-3' wide

Huge star-shaped purple flowers with rich reddish-pink stripes down petal centers make Boulevard Olympia Clematis one of the best purple blooms to enjoy in your garden. Somehow managing to simultaneously pull off both elegant and dramatic, the blooms appear generously from late spring into summer, often with a later second flush.

Clematis ‘Boulevard Olympia’ is especially useful because of its manageable size. Unlike giant clematis varieties that seem determined to conquer the entire garden shed, this is a well-behaved climber that won't scramble out of control. It stays compact enough for smaller borders, patio trellises, obelisks and even large containers tucked into mixed plantings. It adds vertical interest without overwhelming nearby shrubs and perennials, which is incredibly handy when a border needs a bit of height.

Boulevard Olympia Clematis is available from Nature Hills. To keep clematis thriving, plant it where the vines bask in sun while the roots stay cool – use mulch or nearby low-growing plants to shade its base. It prefers rich, well-drained soil and regular watering, especially during hot spells. Choose the right support for this border plant to climb and give it a light prune in early spring, and it’ll happily spend the season covering itself in pastel-perfect, velvety blooms.

5. Super-Cute Hydrangea

• Zones 5-9
• Full sun
• Flowers June-September
• Grows to 1½-2' high and wide

Hydrangea serrata Tiny Tuff Stuff might be smaller than your average hydrangea but it absolutely delivers when it comes to color and charm. Its delicate lacecap flowers appear in soft pinks, purples, or blues (the exact bloom color depends on your soil), creating that dreamy cottage-garden look. And unlike some hydrangeas that bloom once and call it a season, this one reblooms, keeping your border looking fresh and flower-filled for months on end.

Thanks to its compact size, Tiny Tuff Stuff is a versatile cutie that's perfect for edging pathways, softening the front of shrub borders or filling awkward gaps where larger hydrangeas would take over. The smaller foliage and airy blooms also blend beautifully with ferns, hostas and ornamental grasses, giving borders a lovely layered, relaxed vibe.

This mountain hydrangea is tougher than it looks too. With excellent cold hardiness and better bud survival than many traditional hydrangeas, it's more likely to bloom reliably, even after harder winters. Give it morning sun or partial shade, keep the soil evenly moist, and add mulch to help retain moisture. A little compost in spring goes a long way toward keeping this tiny powerhouse happy, too. Tiny Tuff Stuff hydrangeas are available from Burpee.

6. Space-Saving Rose of Sharon

• Zones 5-9
• Full sun
• Flowers July–November
• Grows to 10-15' high and 2-3' wide

If you want a shrub that brings serious flower power without hogging all the space, Rose of Sharon Purple Pillar is a total garden-border superstar. Unlike traditional rose of Sharon shrubs that can be a little unruly, Hibiscus syriacus ‘Purple Pillar’ grows tall but relatively narrow, meaning you can tuck it into tight borders or add height at the back of a mixed border without elbowing out neighboring plants.

Rose of Sharon Purple Pillar is available from Nature Hills and the flowers are total show-offs! Just as many other shrubs begin to fade, ‘Purple Pillar’ bursts into bloom with rich lilac-purple flowers and dramatic red centres – a striking display that’s sure to become a favourite stop-off for pollinators.

This is another refreshingly low-maintenance plant. Give it full sun for the best flowering and plant it in well-drained soil. Once established, Purple Pillar is pretty drought tolerant, though it appreciates regular watering during hot spells. A light prune in late winter helps keep that neat upright shape looking sharp.

7. Shade-Loving Variegated Liriope

• Zones 5-10
• Partial shade
• Flowers August-September
• Grows to 1' high and wide

Variegated monkey grass deserves a lot more attention than it gets. While the flashy flowers and dramatic shrubs grab all the attention, this striped beauty slips quietly into a border with its arching green-and-cream foliage, adding brightness, texture and contrast all season long. In late summer, slender spikes covered in soft lavender-purple blooms dance above the green-and-cream leaves.

Liriope muscari ‘Variegata’ is brilliantly versatile, working beautifully along pathways, at the front of borders, or tucked around shrubs where it illuminates darker corners of the garden. Repeating it through a border creates little waves of color, texture and movement that help connect larger flowering plants.

Thriving in partial shade to full sun, it’s just as easy-going as it is attractive and handles heat, humidity, and dry spells with very little fuss. Plant it in well-drained soil, water regularly while it gets established, and then leave it to get on with life. A quick trim in late winter or early spring freshens up the foliage before new growth appears. Variegated liriope plants are stocked by Fast Growing Trees.

8. Star Performer Agapanthus

• Zones 8-11
• Full sun
• Flowers July-August
• Grows to 1-2' high and 2-3' wide

If you want a plant that instantly makes a garden border feel a little more polished and upscale, ‘Poppin’ Star’ Lily of the Nile absolutely delivers. This Agapanthus produces gorgeous clusters of violet-blue flowers striped with deeper indigo tones, held high above tidy green foliage like exploding fireworks. The blooms have a crisp, architectural look that adds plenty of cheerful structure to borders.

What makes ‘Poppin’ Star’ stand out compared to older Lily of the Nile varieties, though, is its compact habit and impressive flower production. This cultivar stays much more manageable in size, which means you can easily tuck it into mixed borders without sacrificing too much space. It’s especially effective repeated throughout a border because those upright blooms create rhythm and movement, guiding your eye through the garden.

Growing agapanthus couldn't be simpler. This perennial thrives in full sun and well-drained soil and is surprisingly tolerant of heat and dry conditions. Regular watering during the first growing season helps it settle in, but after that, it’s pretty self-sufficient. A little cleanup of spent flower stalks is usually all it takes to keep ‘Poppin’ Star’ looking fresh and ready for its next performance. Poppin Star Lily of the Nile plants are available from Nature Hills.

9. Popping Purple Phlox

• Zones 4-8
• Full sun
• Flowers July-September
• Grows to 2' high and wide

Big on color and low on maintenance, Grape Lollipop Phlox is about to become your new favorite border buddy! This cheerful perennial produces clusters of vibrant grape-purple flowers that glow in the summer sunshine and, unlike some older phlox varieties, keeps a neat, compact shape that doesn’t flop halfway through the season.

Also known as Phlox paniculata ‘Ditomsur’, Grape Lollipop Phlox plants are available from Nature Hills. This easy-to-grow plant is perfect for the middle of the border where it can knit together taller shrubs and shorter edging plants. The bold purple blooms pair seamlessly with pinks, whites, silvers, and ornamental grasses, giving borders that lush, layered cottage-garden feel.

Thankfully, this variety has much better mildew resistance than many traditional garden phlox, so the foliage keeps on looking good. Prioritize full sun, decent airflow and consistently moist but well-drained soil when growing phlox, and you'll be rewarded with months of color.

10. Repeat-flowering Azalea

• Zones 4-8
• Full sun to partial shade
• Flowers July-September
• Grows to 4-5' high and 3-4' wide

Some plants give you one glorious moment and then quietly fade into the background. Autumn Color Encore Azalea is not that kind of plant! This hardworking shrub pulls off the rare gardening trick of blooming not once, but multiple times a year, with waves of vibrant flowers appearing in spring, summer, and again in fall. In a border, that kind of repeat performance is pure gold.

And yes, this beauty is right at the pinker end of the purple spectrum, its vivid violet petals light up any bed. This incredibly color makes deeper purple blooms pop, too, which is why it's one of the most popular flowers used by garden landscapers.

But what really makes this Encore variety shine is how dependable it is. The evergreen foliage keeps the border looking full even in winter, while the compact, rounded shape makes it easy to weave into a mixed border without being unruly. It works beautifully alongside hydrangeas, ornamental grasses, hostas, or dark-leaved shrubs, adding bright punches of color every time it blooms. Which, being a member of the 'Encore' series of azaleas, is often!

Plant this amazing azalea in partial sun or a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade, and make sure the soil is well-drained and slightly acidic. When growing azaleas, a layer of mulch helps keep the roots cool and happy, especially during hot weather. Then occasional watering during dry spells and a light feed for acid-loving plants is all that's needed to keep this azalea looking energetic and flower-packed for months on end. Autumn Color Encore Azalea plants are available from My Perfect Plants.

Who doesn't love the timeless charm of a cottage garden? Overflowing borders packed with roses, foxgloves, delphiniums and lavender have been enchanting gardeners for centuries. Yet while many traditional cottage garden favourites are undeniably beautiful, some demand regular watering, staking and plenty of attention to keep them looking their best. And when midsummer heatwaves strike, some dreamy varieties can collapse into brown, crispy disappointments.

Fortunately for us, there are plenty of resilient cottage garden flowers that deliver all the nostalgic appeal without the high-maintenance routine. These hardy perennials and flowering shrubs are tougher than they look, coping with everything from prolonged summer drought and poor soils to freezing winters and unpredictable weather. By integrating these robust, resilient cottage garden ideas into your yard, you can simplify seasonal maintenance and enjoy your displays for longer.

As our gardens experience hotter, drier summers alongside colder snaps in winter, choosing plants that can adapt to these up-and-down conditions has never been more important. So, if you want resilient cottage garden flowers that look abundant without demanding constant care, I’m showcasing a handful of my favourites that prove you don't have to sacrifice beauty for toughness.

Try These 5 Resilient Cottage Garden Plants

Whatever you choose to plant in your yard, giving new additions a thorough soak during the first few weeks and the first growing season will help them establish strong roots. It's also worth matching each plant to your USDA hardiness zone and growing conditions. If you have a sunny, free-draining border, Mediterranean flowering plants and daisy varieties will thrive. Pick the right plant for the right place and resilient cottage garden flowers will reward you with years of dependable color.

While these resilient cottage garden flowers are famous for surviving poor soil, they cannot tolerate wet feet or dense, compacted clay. If you are planting these cottage garden beauties in heavy clay soil, you risk rotting their roots before they ever have a chance to show off their heat-tolerant capabilities. Good soil drainage is key to the health and heartiness of these tough bloomers.

To ensure your soil quality and structure are at their best, take a quick reading before planting. Using the Luster Leaf Rapitest Soil Tester from Amazon is an excellent way to quickly analyze your pH and nutrient levels. For heavy clay or depleted soil, incorporate a high-quality soil amendment like coarse sand or perlite. Mixing some Back to the Roots Organic Compost from Lowe’s into your planting hole will also help to loosen the dirt, introduce vital beneficial microbes, and improve drainage.

Whether you are planting these cottage garden flowers directly in wide-open borders or styling them in patio containers, ensure your location receives 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily to fuel those midsummer blooms.

1. Lavender

Lavender is one of the most resilient cottage garden flowers. Fragrant, colourful and adored by bees of course, it has all the romance of an old garden border, plus it is remarkably tough once established. In my new book, The Ethical Gardener, available to preorder now on Amazon, I dedicate a chapter to gardening for the future, and plants like lavender are exactly what I have in mind.

As summers become longer and hotter, with parts of North America experiencing temperatures above 100°F (37.7°C) for days at a time, it makes sense to grow plants that are beautiful, resilient and capable of coping with increasingly challenging conditions. Lavender is hardy in zones 5-9, and while we focus on the blooms, its secret weapon is the foliage. Covered in oil-producing glands, it reflects harsh sunlight and traps moisture, making lavender a master of water conservation.

Whether you prefer English, Spanish or French lavender, the growing advice is much the same. Plant it in a sunny spot with free-draining soil and avoid waterlogging at all costs. Make sure you grow it in dry, sandy, or gravelly spots. Overwatering is the fastest way to kill this Mediterranean native, so water only when the soil is dry.

Once flowering has finished in late summer (usually around August), give plants a light trim to remove the spent blooms and help prevent them from becoming woody. For exceptional drought tolerance and extended flowering, try Spanish Lavender from Amazon and Phenomenal Lavender from Nature Hills.

2. Mexican Fleabane

Fleabane is one of my go-to plants. Whether tumbling over retaining walls, weaving through cracks and crevices or softening the front of a sunny border, it somehow looks right wherever you grow it. Mexican fleabane (Erigeron karvinskianus) produces masses of delicate white flowers that age to soft pink, creating a dual-tone display that seems to go on for months. Buy Mixed Erigeron Flower Seeds from Amazon.

Hardy from US zone 6, it thrives in poor, dry, shallow and rocky soils, shrugs off drought once established and happily self-seeds into the smallest spaces, making it one of the most useful cottage-garden plants around. But, while it is a wonderful garden plant, fleabane is often considered invasive in some regions, including Hawaii, so check with your local government or local extension office before planting.

Plant your Mexican fleabane in full sun to partial shade. To prevent it from spreading too aggressively, shear back by half after the main summer flowering flush. Feed lightly in late spring with Espoma Organic Holly-Tone Fertilizer from Walmart for a steady, slow-release nutrient boost that supports extensive blooming.

3. Nepeta (Catmint)

Catmint (aka nepeta) is one of those resilient cottage garden flowers that more than earns its spot in the yard. It is hardy down to zone 3, easy to grow, and produces clouds of blue flowers from late spring through summer that bees cannot resist. It performs beautifully even in clay soil, as long as it doesn’t sit wet through winter.

As a member of the mint family (Lamiaceae), the foliage is highly aromatic, which is one of the things I love most about it. Plant it alongside a path or at the front of a border and, every time you brush past, it releases the most wonderful scent. Once settled, nepeta is very drought tolerant and needs little attention beyond a light trim after flowering to encourage a second flush. Buy Better Versions Junior Walker Nepeta from Fast Growing Trees for exceptional structure and flower power.

To keep its foliage looking lush and vibrant through the peak of summer, you can just give it a splash of Neptune's Harvest Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer on Amazon once every few weeks. Nepeta gets a major foliage boost from the trace minerals, keeping that beautiful silver-blue sheen vibrant all summer.

4. Shasta Daisy

What to say about Shasta daisies? With crisp white petals and golden centers, Leucanthemum × superbum brings a classic cottage-garden look to any border, flowering for weeks through summer. Typically hardy from US zone 5, these upright, sturdy perennials are remarkably resilient once established. They cope well with heat, dry spells and poor soils, provided they have good drainage. Look for 'Becky' or 'Snowcap', with stiff stems that won't flop over in storms.

Plant your daisies in a sunny spot, deadhead spent blooms to encourage more flowers, and cut plants back in fall. Shasta daisies are heavy summer feeders, so mix a few handfuls of Espoma Organic Chicken Manure from Walmart into the surrounding soil when planting to fuel heavy, continuous summer blooms.

You can buy Clovers Garden Shasta Daisies from Walmart as live plants that settle fast for elegant white blooms that hold their own until first frost. As a lovely bonus, these hardy cottage garden classics can be an effective mosquito repellent.

5. Russian Sage

Russian sage (or Salvia yangii) will keep performing in the most challenging conditions. Hardy in zones 4-9, it produces airy blue flower spikes above aromatic silver-gray foliage from early summer into fall, creating a soft haze of colour that pollinators love. Once established, it shrugs off heat, drought and poor soils with ease. You can buy live Clovers Garden Russian Sage Plants from Amazon.

Reaching up to 4 feet (1.2m) in height, this sub-shrub brings structural texture and height to the back of sunny borders. It is virtually bulletproof, resisting deer, rabbits, salty coastal air, and intense heatwaves without dropping a leaf. Just avoid over-feeding or overwatering, which can make stems weak and floppy.

In late spring, when humidity levels rise, Russian sage can sometimes fall victim to powdery mildew. To keep your display immaculate, apply a little organic remedy such as Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide Concentrate from Walmart. This safe spray destroys harmful fungal pathogens, keeping silver stems pristine all summer long.

Shop Cottage Garden Essentials

Creating a natural, traditional aesthetic in your backyard doesn’t need to involve breaking a sweat. These drought tolerant beauties can handle whatever summer throws at them with easy grace. Make some room for these natural wonders that deliver dreamy blooms with massive impact from now until well into fall.

To find out more about inspirational gardens and gardening, read The Garden Through Time by Thomas Rutter, available from Amazon. From Persian paradises to New York’s High Line, this volume offers practical ideas and plant selections to help you design a gorgeous, low-maintenance garden. Telling the story of 45 gardens found worldwide, it is an essential read (or gift) for gardeners looking for timeless inspiration.

“Here comes the sun,” goes the classic Beatles song. “Here comes the sun, and I say, ‘It’s all right.’” But some 60 years later, the summer sun is not always a sign of hope, and it can cause issues in the garden.

I just got back to San Francisco after some months in France. April and May were a delight but late June and early July brought a heat wave – with the highest temperatures ever recorded in the country (think 107 degrees F).

These temperatures killed off some of my favorite garden shrubs and made me rethink what to plant in the future. Let’s take stock of some traditional garden plants that struggle (or give up the ghost) in extreme heat as well as some great, heat-tolerant replacements.

1. Hydrangea (Hydrangea spp.)

I have never seen my hydrangeas looking better than they did in April and May. I have three bigleafs, (Hydrangea macrophylla) two mopheads and one lacecap variety. They were stunning in spring, totally covered with the huge flowers, and even the leaves were starting to look baked.

Hydrangeas generally prefer morning sun and afternoon shade, so I have all of my plants planted where they don’t get much direct afternoon sun, but that did not save them. After one week of 100-plus temperatures, the pink and blue flowers had turned brown or green and when I left, they were beginning to drop.

Plant instead: Pentas (Pentas lanceolata)

We’ve found the perfect, heat-proof alternative. Pentas love intense sunshine and thrive in high heat. That’s why they are so popular in Florida. And they look a bit like hydrangeas with their blossom clusters. Their star-shaped flowers are a target for hummingbirds and butterflies.

2. Peonies (Paeonia spp.)

With large, fragrant, long-flowering blooms, peonies are one of those shrubs that grace many a garden. These classic flowers need a site with mucho sunshine - at least 6 hours a day! But that doesn’t mean they will thrive in heatwaves.

The type of intense, direct hot sunshine we saw this summer does not make a peony happy. I saw my peony leaves scorch in two days, and the third day, the gorgeous petals began to fade and wilt. It’s enough to make a grown gardener weep!

Plant instead: Heat Tolerant Roses (Rosa spp.)

Most rose plants need some direct sun, but only a few, heat-tolerant roses survive temperatures of 100 degrees F for more than a few minutes. The ones that do share these traits: thick, leathery foliage; lots and lots of petals; and their own roots rather than grafted roots.

We recommend "Belinda’s Dream," said to be the top pick for the Deep South. Its huge pink flowers are intensely fragrant and don’t blink in 100-degree weather. "Julia Child" comes in next, with its continuous clusters of buttery yellow, licorice-scented blooms, even when summer heat hits news highs. Roses in the "Knock Out" family are also amazingly heat resistant. heat, their blooms may temporarily shrink or fade.

3. Astilbe (Astilbe spp.)

Many of us have astilbes in the garden since they are known to be one of the easiest perennial flowers to grow. Their flowers are unusual as well, plume-like blooms in soft shades of white, pink, purple, and red. They rise above the airy foliage on stiff stocks. I can tell you from personal knowledge that these are extremely low maintenance additions to the shade garden, requiring only moisture and damp, loamy soil.

All these positive features are negatives as the summer temperatures rise. As summers turn hotter and drier, the feathery foliage actually burns - look for brown, crispy edges on the leaves - and wilting, browning blossoms. The plants just can’t uptake water fast enough to keep its flowers looking good.

Plant instead: Russian Sage (Salvia yangii)

With its soft but dramatic spikes of lavender flowers lasting for up to four months, Russian sage offers the same type of unusual eye candy to the garden that makes astilbe stand out. But as summers swelter, Russian sage just keeps getting prettier while astilbe just cooks. Don’t even think of planting this salvia in shade! It will cause the stems to become weak, lax, and prone to flopping.

4. Bleeding Heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis)

Old-fashioned bleeding heart is both stunning and darling, with its unique, dangling heart-shaped flowers and finely divided foliage. It just makes you happy to see it in the garden - and that’s why it is so popular with gardeners.

But a bleeding heart plant needs shade - partial to full - and also moist soil. They work well in woodland settings and require consistent moisture and full protection from hot afternoon sun. Obviously, sizzling summer temperatures will not do any favors for these favorites. They won’t survive anything hotter than 75 degrees F.

Plant instead: Foamy Bells (Heucherella spp.)

Heucherella is a plant that does double duty. It displays fabulous foliage as well as darling little blossoms. Known as foamy bells, this perennial is a hybrid of Heuchera (coral bells) and Tiarella (foamflower), carrying the best traits of both. Like Heuchera, the leaves come in a wild variety of colors, sometimes streaked with intricate veining. Like its other parent foamflower, Heucherella grows tall stems with delicate frothy flowers on tall stems that dance in a gentle breeze.

Plant Heucherella foamy bells in filtered, dappled shade. Once installed, they tolerate heat and humidity, thriving in southern regions. If you choose Heucherella (foamy bells) varieties with Heuchera villosa parentage - like Heucherella ‘Sweet Tea’ - your plants have superior heat and humidity tolerance.

5. Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis)

Lily of the valley is a woodland flowering plant , known for its pure white, bell-shaped pendant flowers and unforgettable perfume. It is often used as a shade-loving ground cover since it has a dense root system that will eventually crowd out weeds and create a lush carpet of green.

These plants do not do well in hot, dry areas. Harsh sun and high heat dry out their shallow root systems and kill the plants.

Plant instead: Creeping Lilyturf (Liriope spicata)

For hotter, drier summers, replace lily of the valley with hardy, heat-tolerant ground cover creeping lilyturf. These plants create a dense mat with long, grass-like leaves and pale violet or off-white flowers on short rachis. It suppresses weeds like lilies of the valley but survives intense heat waves while staying green.

6. Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus)

Cosmos are native to Mexico, which means that they generally like warm weather and direct sun. This extremely popular showy annual can grow to 2-4 feet (1m) tall on erect stems, carrying saucer-shaped, daisy-like flowers with red, pink or white petals and yellow centers. They bloom constantly from early summer to frost.

However, cosmos plants suffer in hot and humid summer climates. The flowers simply stop opening and the lovely colors fade. As temperatures climb, the plants can even wilt.

Plant instead: Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

Looking for a flower that will thrive in soaring temperatures and dry soil? Look at the purple coneflowers. These North American natives also grow large, daisy-like petals with prominent, spiky center cones. But they are hardy perennials that have evolved to grow in extreme temperatures and lean, dry soil.

Every summer – and I really do mean every single summer now – I notice the same thing happening in my garden. The plants that looked unstoppable in May? They suddenly start looking tired by July, with flowers fading, foliage drooping and everything seeming to slow down just when I want my borders to be bursting with color.

As hotter summers become the norm across much of the world (US absolutely included), I find myself idly dreaming about which flowering perennials will take one look at a 95°F forecast and think, 'Finally!' My time to shine!'

Basically, I want plants that like heat and full sun. I want vibrant blooms, buzzing pollinators and weeks (sometimes months) of color, even when I'm dripping with sweat and find myself subsisting entirely on ice creams.

Flowering Perennials That Like It Hot

For those who want flowering perennials that like it hot, the secret is choosing those plants that have evolved to thrive in sunshine, dry conditions and soaring temperatures (aka deep roots, silvery foliage or naturally drought-tolerant habits) as this will help them stay fresh long after more delicate plants have thrown in the towel.

So, if your borders tend to lose their sparkle once the weather warms up, these are the flowering perennials I'd plant every single time.

1. Blanket Flower

If you want a plant that looks like sunshine bottled into a flower, blanket flower is hard to beat. Cheerful red, orange and golden-yellow blooms appear from early summer right through fall, often carrying on long after other perennials have called it quits.

Native to North America, it's happiest basking in full sun and copes brilliantly with heat and dry soil. Butterflies adore it, bees can't get enough of it and you'll love how little effort it asks for in return. If you want to go super bold, the SpinTop™ Red Blanket Gaillardia from Nature Hills blooms nonstop until the first frost.

2. Coneflower

Coneflowers are one of those plants I recommend again and again because they simply never let me down. Their bold daisy-like flowers bloom for weeks on end, bringing vibrant color while turning your borders into a magnet for bees and butterflies.

Once established, they're wonderfully drought tolerant, making them one of the easiest ways to keep a garden looking lush through the hottest part of summer. Why not swerve the usual purple in favor of the Sunseekers™ Rainbow Coneflower from Nature Hills? You'll end up with orange, pink, rose, and yellow blooms all on one plant!

3. Black-Eyed Susan

Few flowers capture the feeling of high summer quite like black-eyed Susan. Their golden petals seem to glow in the sunshine, and with regular deadheading they'll keep blooming for weeks.

This tough native perennial shrugs off heat, humidity and less-than-perfect soil, making it one of the most dependable flowers you can grow. The Prairie Glow Black - Eyed Susan from Nature Hills offers a vibrant bi-colored twist to the usual uniform yellow.

4. Russian Sage

No surprises here, but if you want flowering perennials that will thrive in 95°F climes, Russian sage was well and truly made for heatwaves. Silvery foliage shimmers in bright sunshine while airy lavender-blue flower spikes seem to float above the border, creating movement and softness even on the hottest days.

It's also one of the stars of water-wise gardens, thriving where many thirstier plants struggle. If you're short on room, opt for a compact variety like the stunning Blue Jean Baby Russian Sage from Nature Hills.

5. Catmint

Look, don't underestimate catmint. It might be easygoing, but it's also one of the hardest-working perennials in the garden... especially if things are feeling hot, hot, hot. Give it a quick trim after its first flush of flowers and it'll often reward you with another spectacular display.

Bees absolutely love it, while deer and rabbits usually leave it alone – that's what I call a win-win. Personally, I will always choose Cat's Pajamas Catmint for the name alone.

6. Tickseed

Tickseed is the sort of flowering perennial that seems determined to keep flowering whatever summer throws its way. Its cheerful blooms can brighten borders for months, bringing a light, airy feel that's perfect for prairie-style planting or cottage gardens.

Once established, it's impressively drought tolerant and asks for very little beyond the occasional deadhead. The Big Bang™ Cosmic Eye Coreopsis from Nature Hills is a great way to make a splash in your garden.

7. Lantana

If you've ever visited a Southern garden in midsummer, chances are you've seen lantana stealing the show. While other flowers wilt in scorching temperatures, lantana just keeps pumping out vibrant clusters of orange, pink, yellow and red blooms.

Butterflies flock to it, it positively thrives in hot sunshine and, in warmer USDA zones, comes back year after year with very little fuss. You can grab some Clovers Garden Lantana Camara Flowers from Amazon easily enough.

Bonus: Rattlesnake Master

If your style leans a little more naturalistic, rattlesnake master deserves a spot on your planting list. Its distinctive globe-shaped flowers and sword-like foliage bring architectural drama to sunny borders, while its prairie roots mean it positively thrives in blazing heat and dry conditions.

It isn't as brightly colored as some of the other flowering perennials on this list, sure, but it's one of the very best plants for attracting bees, butterflies and beneficial insects (and it pairs beautifully with coneflowers, blanket flowers and black-eyed Susans in a heat-loving prairie-style planting, so what's not to love?).

Build A Rattlesnake Master Planting Scheme:

These plants might be built for the heat, but I’m not quite there yet. You’ll find me indoors, fan on full blast, cold drink in hand, and quietly wishing I had the same summer survival skills as the flowers in this list.

Are there any flowers that ask nothing of you but give you so much in return? Let me introduce you to the unicorn of the garden world: zinnias. Bright, cheerful, drought-tolerant, and apparently immune to the kind of neglect that kills lesser plants. Zinnias cope just fine in this heatwave weather, too.

But the best news? Zinnias are among the fast-growing, heat-loving blooms that you can still start from seed in July.

No wonder, then, that Zinnias are seriously having a moment right now. A recent Instagram video from Brianne Martin capturing their riotous summer color is a great reminder of exactly why. In the caption, she wrote, "They're one of the easiest cut flowers to grow – and once you plant them, you'll probably grow them every year."

Why Everyone Is Growing Zinnias Right Now

This extreme heatwave weather we're experiencing this summer is probably the number one reason why zinnias are having a moment right now. And as forecasts predict the hot weather looks set to continue all summer, we are all turning away from thirsty hydrangeas and astilbe to choose tough, heat-tolerant flowers that practically grow themselves.

Joe DeFrancesco from Farmer Joe’s Gardens, whose family has farmed in Connecticut for four generations and who grows zinnias commercially, puts it plainly: "Zinnias are having a moment because they deliver maximum impact with minimum fuss." His farm grows several varieties – State Fair Mix, Thumbelina, and Cut and Come Again – and he calls them "probably the most reliable summer annual we offer."

Megan Proska, Associate Vice President of Horticulture and Collections at the Dallas Arboretum, where zinnias are trialled every year in one of the most rigorous plant testing programmes in the country, agrees. "Zinnias continue to stand out as a summer annual because they're fast-growing, heat-loving, and bloom continuously with minimal care. They thrive in full sun, tolerate Texas heat extremely well, and perform beautifully in landscape beds, in containers, and cut flower gardens."

And with over 200 varieties, there really is the right zinnia for every garden, whatever zone you're in.

There's also the pollinator angle, which is driving part of their popularity as people become more considerate about planting to help their local wildlife. Shelby Lucero of Growing Spaces, who grows zinnias both inside greenhouses and outdoors, has noticed something interesting about colour preference. "Butterflies are most attracted to red, pink, and orange zinnia colours – these colours appear to glow to butterflies. Purple varieties attract bees more effectively because this colour signals a high pollen source to them."

Hummingbirds and hummingbird moths are fans too, which is the kind of garden wildlife list that makes you want to go and plant some immediately.

And while pollinators love zinnias, deer hate them. "Almost all of our outdoor flowers get decimated by the local deer population," Lucero says, "but deer don't touch the zinnias." If you've ever watched a deer methodically destroy an entire border, you'll understand why this is practically a selling point on its own.

Because they're annuals, completing their life cycle in less than one year, zinnias are extremely quick to grow, too, with some varieties speeding from seed to flower in as few as 60 days.

And did I mention that zinnias make great cut flowers?

How to Grow Zinnias Well

It's super-easy to grow zinnias, even if you're a beginner gardener. Proska's advice is straightforward: "Sow zinnias in warm soil with plenty of airflow, water at the base of the plant, and deadhead regularly to encourage flowering. Succession sowing every few weeks also helps extend the display."

DeFrancesco adds that their drought resistance, once established, is genuinely impressive. "They actually prefer lean soil and can handle neglect better than most flowers." Which is basically the dream!

For cut flowers specifically, he recommends planting tall varieties like State Fair Mix and pinching out the first blooms to encourage bushier growth. Lucero's cutting technique is precise: "Determine the desired stem length and cut them at an angle with sharp shears just above a set of leaves." These Fiskars Pruning scissors on Amazonare just the job.

Common Zinnia Mistakes To Avoid

Both overwatering and over-fertilizing are all too easy if you're growing zinnias in a bed among other more demanding flowering plants. "The biggest mistake new gardeners make is overwatering – zinnias hate wet feet and will develop powdery mildew," says DeFrancesco. Proska flags the same issue from another angle: watering the foliage rather than the base is a fast route to powdery mildew later in the season.

Giving zinnias room to breathe rather than growing plants too closely together is another good way to avoid powdery mildew, as good airflow is the best defence. If you live in a humid zone where powdery mildew is more common, then there's an even easier solution. Profusion zinnias have been bred to have strong resistance to this problem. They're self-cleaning, too, which means they don’t need deadheading, as new blooms continuously replace old ones. Eden Brothers sell a good number of Profusion zinnias including 'Profusion Apricot',, Profusion Red-Yellow Bicolor', 'Profusion Double Fire' and 'Profusion Double Hot Cherry'.

On fertilizer, Lucero is direct: "Zinnias do best in poor soil conditions. Excess nitrogen will result in more foliage growth, but fewer blooms." Less really is more here.

The Best Zinnia Varieties to Grow Now

Proska's recommendations come with serious credentials – all of the following have won an Arboretum Approved or Flameproof award in the Dallas Arboretum's trial programme, and seeds of many are available from Eden Brothers: Zydeco Series, Profusion Series, Zesty Series, Benary's Giant, Magellan Series and Zahara. Lucero's favorites, all available from Botanical Interests, are Cactus Flower Blend, Cut and Come Again and California Giants.

My personal favorite is Benary’s Giant Wine, with tall, fully double blooms in a deep magenta. Seeds are available from Eden Brothers.

Can't decide? Sow this Zinnia Crazy Blend from Amazon, with 12 different varieties.

Pick one, sow somewhere sunny, keep seeds and young seedlings watered until the plants are grown roots deep enough to find moisture for themselves, and your zinnias will do the rest.

Summer in the garden is all about flowers. If you plan your beds and containers right, you should have a profusion of color through July and August. Many of these summer beauties need deadheading to continue producing blooms. Snipping off spent flowers signals to the plant to put energy into making more.

If you feel like your entire summer revolves around deadheading in order to keep the flowers coming, there’s good news. Some flowers bloom all summer without deadheading. They either simply keep producing in spite of spent blooms or are so-called self-cleaning plants that naturally shed their flowers.

I’ve curated a list here of my favorite no-fuss summer flowers that provide non-stop color without the chore of deadheading.

Tips for Keeping Your Flowers Blooming Longer

Choosing plants that bloom continuously is only the first step to getting summer-long flowers. Even these reliable summer producers can struggle without the right care. Here’s how to ensure they keep blooming and stay healthy:

• Water your bedding flowers deeply and less frequently to encourage stronger, healthier roots.
• Potted plants need to be watered more often, even every day, when it’s not raining, as they dry out quickly.
• Use a bloom-boosting fertilizer to ensure plants have the nutrients they need to keep flowering.
• Most repeat-blooming flowers need full sun to perform optimally. This means at least six hours of direct sunlight per day.
• Use mulch around flowers to keep weeds at bay, regulate soil temperature, and keep more moisture in the soil.

Bloom-Boosting Essentials

Flowers That Bloom All Summer With No Deadheading

With the right flowers and these pro tips, you can expect an abundance of blooms all summer with minimal effort and no more deadheading.

1. Lantana

Lantana is a tough plant that flowers all summer and thrives even in very hot weather and in poor, dry soil. You can pick up a set of two mixed-color lantana live plants from Walmart to fill your garden with color this summer. The attractive clusters of small flowers are multi-colored, draw in pollinators, and naturally fade as new blooms appear.

Lantana can be an issue in some areas where it is invasive. Its toughness is what helps it outcompete native plants. If you live in cooler climates, use lantana as an annual. In areas where it will survive winter, grow it in containers.

2. Summer Snapdragon

Summer snapdragon – aka angelonia – is a perennial in zones 9 through 11 and an annual in cooler climates. It produces fresh spikes of colorful flowers all summer without the chore of deadheading. I love the blue-purple varieties, like this Angelface Blue Summer Snapdragon from Plant Addicts.

Angelonia thrives in the heat of July and August and won’t let you down even when conditions get tough for other plants.

These flowers are great for beds, borders, and containers. They need soil that drains very well and full sun. They won’t need frequent watering, but you should fertilize monthly to keep the flowers going.

3. Supertunias

Petunias have long been popular summer annuals with their large, trumpet-shaped flowers that come in a wide range of colors. Traditional petunias need deadheading to keep flowering, but the newer Supertunia varieties are self-cleaning. They’ll drop their spent flowers and keep producing more without your help.

Walmart stocks a good color range, including this four-pack of vivid watermelon-hued Proven Winners Pink Supertunia Vista Paradise.

Supertunias have a trailing habit, so they are great for borders, edges, containers, and hanging baskets. They need full sun and well-drained soil to thrive. Use a bloom-boosting fertilizer every couple of weeks for the best results.

4. Madagascar Periwinkle

Also known as annual vinca, this type of vinca is hardy only in very warm climates and is an annual in most gardens. It thrives in summer weather and continuously produces new flowers as old ones fade, so there’s no need to deadhead them.

Pick up a glorious multicolor vinca hanging basket from Lowe's.

Madagascar periwinkle is very heat and drought-tolerant and grows well along borders and in containers in full sun and well-drained soil. Unlike some repeat bloomers, this type of vinca doesn’t need a lot of feeding to keep producing.

5. Million Bells

Million bells, or calibrachoa, is yet another annual in cool climates that doesn’t require deadheading. It is naturally self-cleaning, producing hundreds of small, trumpet-shaped flowers all summer. Million bells look especially nice in containers, including hanging baskets and window boxes, as their trailing stems spill over the sides.

Plant Addicts stocks a fantastic collection of calibrachoa plants, but I have a soft spot for this Pink Lemonade variety.

Provide million bells plants with full sun and soil that drains well but stays moist with regular watering. Because they bloom so heavily, you will need to feed these plants with a bloom-specific product all summer.

6. Wax Begonias

This classic and perennially popular flower is a staple for shade gardening. An annual in most climates, wax begonia has characteristic waxy leaves and small bright flowers that persist all summer. Pick up a three-color mix from Walmart. The blooms are self-cleaning, naturally dropping as new flowers form.

You can grow wax begonias in beds or containers as long as they don’t get too much sun. Partial shade is ideal, but they’ll also grow in full shade. Use moist, rich soil that drains well and feed monthly to keep the flowers coming.

7. Impatiens

Impatiens is the other classic shade annual. Like begonias, they readily drop their spent blooms, and new ones will quickly take their place. Also like begonias, impatiens grow best in moist, rich soil and partial or even full shade. Plant Addicts stocks a lovely range of Impatiens.

For the best results from your impatiens, make sure the soil never totally dries out and feed the plants at least every three weeks with a flower-focused fertilizer. In addition to standard impatiens, look for New Guinea impatiens, which are larger plants with bigger leaves and flowers. They’ll also tolerate more sun.

8. Sweet Alyssum

Sweet alyssum blooms in summer in a carpet of tiny flowers, often white but also pink or purple. Traditional varieties stop flowering in July, but new, sterile hybrids keep going and don’t need deadheading. They put all their energy into their sweet-scented flowers. Grow sweet alyssum along edges of beds and as the “spiller” element in mixed containers.

Sweet alyssum grows best in full sun or partial shade and doesn’t require rich soil. It flowers best when watered consistently. Examples of sterile varieties for ongoing flowers include ‘Snow Princess,’ ‘White Knight,’ available as a four-pack from Lowe's, and ‘Blushing Princess.’

Self-seeding flowers carry a reputation for taking over, and some earn it. Plenty don't, though. A handful of well-mannered reseeders drop just enough seed to return each spring on their own, filling gaps without ever staging a takeover.

There's a particular kind of magic in a flower that plants itself. Set it out once, it blooms and drops seed, and come spring a fresh crop pushes up right where the old one faded. No digging, no reworking the bed — it just shows up. The catch plenty of gardeners have run into, though, is that a fair number of self-sowers don't know when to quit, turning a neat border into a tangle by the third summer.

The good news is that not all self-seeding plants behave that way. Some scatter only a modest amount of seed, come up in politely small numbers, and pull easily wherever they land somewhere unwanted. The six here fall squarely into that camp. They return on their own year after year, but stay roughly where they were put.

6 Self-Seeders That Stay Put

One thing to sort out first. With re-seeders, telling next year's seedlings from weeds come spring is half the battle. The volunteers pop up in odd spots, and it's easy to hoe out a flower by mistake. A set of plant labels from Amazon marking where each one went in saves a lot of second-guessing. Past that, most of these ask for next to nothing.

1. Columbine

Columbine (Aquilegia) is one of the better-behaved re-seeders you can tuck into a shady spot. The flowers nod on thin stems, spurred at the back, and they come in just about every color. Left to settle, a plant sheds a little seed each year — enough to keep it around, not so much that it starts crowding the neighbors.

It leans toward partial shade and soil that drains freely, and it's hardy clear down to zone 3, coming back from the same crown each winter rather than starting over from seed the way the annuals do. Volunteers lift easily while small, so a narrow hand trowel from Amazon turns relocating a stray seedling into a two-minute job. Trimming spent stems slows the sowing if it ever runs ahead of you.

2. Calendula

People mostly grow calendula (Calendula officinalis) for the petals — edible, a little peppery, decent tossed in a salad. What gets missed is how easily it reseeds. It blooms in warm oranges and yellows through the cool shoulders of the season, then drops its odd curved seed to sprout on its own the next spring.

Technically an annual, it behaves like a returning fixture across zones 2 through 11. The parent plants die off, but their offspring reliably step in. That reach into zone 2, matched only by love-in-a-mist plants here, makes it about the coldest-tolerant pick on the list.

Full sun and average soil suit it fine. Deadheading stretches the bloom but also curbs reseeding, so leaving a few late flowers to ripen keeps the cycle going without letting it sprawl. Bright and cheery calendula seeds can be purchased from Burpee.

3. Love-in-a-Mist

Wispy, thread-like foliage and papery blue flowers give love-in-a-mist (Nigella damascena) an almost weightless look in a border. After bloom, the flowers give way to inflated, horned seed pods that are half the reason to grow it — and the source of next year's plants.

A hardy annual, it self-sows dependably from zone 2 clear up to 11, and never really makes a nuisance of itself doing it. Full sun, soil that drains — that covers what it needs. One quirk: the seedlings hate being moved, so it's best to let them come up where they fall. If a patch gets too thick, thinning by hand is easier than transplanting anyway. Miss Jekyll double-bloom love in a mist flowers, from Eden Brothers, are heirloom, open-pollinated seeds and a wonderful addition to your pollinator or cottage garden.

4. California Poppy

By August, plenty of drought-tolerant plants look half-cooked, but California poppy (Eschscholzia californica) doesn't. It keeps pushing out silky orange cups through the hottest, driest stretch, right when most everything around it has checked out for the season. It reseeds freely in the lean, gritty soil it favors, yet stays easy to keep in check and unwanted seedlings pull with a light tug, roots and all.

Hardy in zones 6 to 10 and perennial at the warm end of that range, it's a strong pick for sun-blasted spots. It wants no fertilizer and barely any water once established. And if it ever wanders further than you'd like, a quick pass with garden snips from Amazon over the seed heads before they open keeps next season in check.

5. Sweet Alyssum

You usually smell sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima) before you spot it. That honey scent carries a good distance. It grows in low mounds, tiny white or pale-purple flowers by the hundred, spilling over a path edge or the front of a bed from spring right through fall. Reseeds itself the whole while, quietly. In the warmest gardens — zones 9 to 11 — it settles in as a short-lived perennial, coming back year on year; everywhere else it returns from its own dropped seed.

That zone 11 ceiling also makes it the clear heat champion of the group — nothing else here handles a summer that punishing. It's undemanding, happy in full sun to light shade with regular-to-dry soil. Shearing it back midseason revives tired plants and keeps the reseeding modest instead of overzealous.

6. Blanket Flower

Blanket flower (Gaillardia) takes the extremes in stride — the summer that bakes a bed hard, the winter that freezes it solid, both. The red-and-gold daisies keep flowering from early summer until frost finally shuts them down, and pollinators work them the entire time. It reseeds at a measured clip. Enough to stick around, never enough to run wild.

It handles zones 3 to 10, a remarkable span for one plant, and asks only for full sun and soil that isn't soggy. Overwatering is about the one way to lose it. Leaving a few seed heads standing into fall keeps volunteers coming and gives the birds something to pick at through the lean months.

Enjoy these easy-going, re-seeding garden champions and get ready to have gorgeous beds year after year!

Orchids have a reputation for being fussy, but most of what they need in July is simple – it just has to actually happen. Summer is a growth season, even when they're not flowering. Behind the scenes, the plant is banking energy for its next flower spike months down the line. Get the summer care right, and that spike comes in strong. Get one thing badly wrong, and you can quietly cancel next season's show before it starts.

Good orchid care in summer comes down to a handful of small tasks and avoiding that one costly slip. None of it takes long, but you need to get into a good rhythm. Steady, moderate care beats sporadic bursts of attention.

Most houseplant orchids are Phalaenopsis (aka moth orchids), so that's the assumption here, though the advice carries to most common types of orchids. If you want to expand your collection, then other good beginner varieties include Dendrobium and Cattleya orchids – both of which are included in this well-rated five-plant set from Angel's Orchids via Amazon.

1. Get the Light Right – and Avoid the Scorch

This is it. The mistake that quietly costs people their next round of flowers. Never leave your orchid sitting in direct summer sun. The leaves scorch fast – a bleached or browned patch that never heals – and those leaves are the plant's whole engine for powering the next spike. Damage them in July, and it's not just an ugly leaf you're dealing with; it's a missing bloom cycle. Summer sun through a south or west window hits far harder than winter light; a plant that was fine there in January can start burning now.

Bright but filtered is the target. An east window is close to perfect; for anything brighter, a sheer curtain takes the edge off. A self-adhesive portable curtain, like this one on Amazon, lets you temporarily protect plants without drilling. You can just take it down once the high heat of summer has passed.

If you're not sure whether your orchid's light levels are correct, check the leaves. Grassy green is about right; dark forest green wants more; anything bleached or reddish means pull it back fast. Mine sit a couple of feet (60 cm) back from a south window behind a thin curtain, which is the sweet spot in summer.

2. Rethink Watering for the Heat

Orchids drink more in summer, plain and simple. Warmth and active growth dry the bark faster, so the winter rhythm needs to tighten up. Watering orchids on a strict calendar, though, is how roots rot – check first, every time. In a clear pot, silvery-gray roots mean it's thirsty and still-green roots mean wait. No clear pot? Lift it: light means dry, heavy means hold off.

When you water, do it properly – run it through until it pours from the drainage holes, then let it drain fully. The one rule I never break: don't leave water sitting in the crown, that central well where the leaves meet. Trapped there, it invites crown rot, which can kill a Phalaenopsis outright. A quick dab with a paper towel clears any that pools. Morning watering gives the plant all day to dry.

3. Give Them More Humidity

Most orchids come from humid, tropical places and want the air around 50 to 70 percent. Summer works against that, oddly – not the outdoor air, but the air conditioning, which pulls moisture from a room fast. Too little, and the plant shows it: leaves go slightly wrinkled, and developing buds can shrivel and drop before opening. That last one, known as orchid bud blast, stings after months of waiting.

An easy fix is a humidity tray – a shallow water reservoir with pebbles that hold the pot above the waterline, so evaporation raises humidity without the roots sitting in water. This humidity tray from Amazon does just that under a windowsill grouping. Clustering plants together helps too. Misting gets pushed a lot, but it's honestly weak and short-lived, and late-day misting leaves water pooled where you don't want it. If all else fails, use a small humidifier, like this Levoit model.

4. Feed While They're Growing

Summer is prime orchid feeding time – the plant is growing and can use the nutrients. The old grower's phrase is “weakly, weekly”: a regular diluted feed at a quarter to half label strength, not a heavy dose now and then.

A balanced, urea-free orchid food, like Better-Gro Orchid Plus, diluted to under the bottle's suggested strength, is the standard pick. Urea nitrogen isn't much use to a plant rooted in bark.

One important rule to remember: never feed a bone-dry plant. Salts on parched roots scorch them, same as on anything else – water first, or feed right after a normal watering. Once a month, flush the pot with plain water to rinse out built-up salts before they burn the roots.

5. Keep the Air Moving

Air movement is one of those things nobody thinks about until something goes wrong. In the wild, orchids grow in trees with near-constant breeze over their roots and leaves. On a still windowsill in a warm, humid room, they lose that – and stagnant, damp air is where fungal spots and rot get started. A little moving air keeps leaf surfaces dry and the setup far less welcoming to trouble.

A small fan on its lowest setting, aimed to stir the air near the plants rather than blast them, does the job. This Gaiatop Portable Clip-on Fan is ideal – clamp it to a shelf edge, and it moves just enough without drying things out or knocking buds around.

Aim for a gentle drift, not a wind tunnel; if the leaves are whipping, it's too much. A few hours a day suffices.

6. Stay Ahead of Summer Pests

Warm weather wakes up the orchid pests. The biggest summer offenders are usually mealybugs – check for their little cottony white specks tucked into leaf joints. Scale shows up as small brown bumps that scrape off with a fingernail, while spider mites leave fine webbing and a dull, stippled look.

The trick is catching them early, before a handful becomes an infestation. A once-over every week or two does it – flip the leaves, check the crown, and peer into the tight spots.

For a light case, a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol wipes mealybugs and scale right off. Bigger outbreaks want more reach – neem oil smothers soft-bodied pests and doubles as a mild fungicide. A popular organic pick is Bonide Captain Jack's neem oil. Spray it on a cool, shaded evening so it doesn't bake onto the leaves.

Move an affected plant away from the others while you sort it out. It takes no time for pests to jump between orchids sitting shoulder to shoulder.

July Orchid Care Essentials

Are you looking for a carefree summer annual with non-stop blooms for a shady area? If you haven’t tried it yet, now is the perfect time to indulge in Dragon Wing begonias to fill out hanging baskets and containers. The large, green leaves; semi-trailing stems; and pendulous flowers in red, pink, or white are ideal for container culture.

The Dragon Wing begonia series (Begonia hybrida ‘Dragon Wing’) is a garden staple that performs best in partial shade, but also thrives in full sun or full shade. If planted in full sun, it appreciates some afternoon shade in the warmer zones. While it is only hardy in USDA zones 10 to 11, dragon wing begonia is easily overwintered.

I have a shady porch that cries out for begonia varieties, and I usually alternate between dragon wing begonias and the BIG Series wax begonias. They are both trouble free and do well in any light. They simply are must-haves for shady areas where you want low-maintenance, showy blooms that keep on coming.

What Is a Dragon Wing Begonia?

Dragon wing is a cross between an 'Angel Wing' begonia and either a wax begonia or a species begonia, resulting in vigorous traits and superb heat tolerance. It grows from 12 to 18 inches tall and wide (30 to 46 cm), with fleshy stems and 5-inch (13 cm) glossy, green leaves shaped like dragon wings (hence its name). There is also a bronze leaf cultivar.

This shade-loving annual prefers moderate-to-fertile, moist, but well-drained soil. dragon wing begonias can tolerate a short amount of drought as well as juglone, the chemical produced by black walnut trees that causes nearby plants to fail.

Dragon wing begonias are fairly common at garden centers these days, but if you can't find any in person they're available online as live plants from Planet Desert or you can grow them from seeds from Burpee.

Planting Dragon Wing Begonias

Feature dragon wing begonias in containers, hanging baskets, window baskets, landscape beds, or even indoors for a stunning display of colorful flowers and glossy foliage. Choose containers with several drainage holes to ensure excess water is easily drained. If your containers don’t have adequate drainage holes, you can add them with a screwdriver or a drill.

Plant dragon wing begonias in a fertile, well-draining potting mix, like Content Editor Laura's favorite Miracle-Gro mix. Avoid heavy garden soils that may promote stem or root rot. Make sure the plant is not too deep in the soil or it may get stem rot. The crown (where the stems meet the roots) should be at the soil line.

Fertilize begonias when planting with a balanced liquid fertilizer such as 20-20-20, or with a slow-release fertilizer. They will need regular feeding to keep the blooms coming all summer and fall. An organic bloom-boosting fertilizer like this one from Espoma is a great choice.

When growing dragon wing begonias in containers and hanging baskets, one plant soon fills a 10-inch (25 cm) pot. For a 12-inch (30 cm) and wider container, start with three plants.

These flowers look stunning on their own, but if you want to add another plant, choose a spiller plant such as the delicate blooming bacopa, chartreuse creeping Jenny, silver-leafed dichondra or dusty miller, or chartreuse sweet potato vine.

Companion Plants

Dragon Wing Begonia Care

Dragon wing begonias, like all begonias, prefer moist, well-drained soil. It is important, however, not to oversaturate the plants or leave them standing in water. Water begonias when the soil is dry about an inch (2.5 cm) below the soil line.

If you're growing begonias in pots or hanging baskets, they need watering more often than those in the ground. During the heat of summer, check the pots daily for dryness. Whether in the ground or in pots, adding a layer of mulch around the plants will insulate them and help prevent moisture loss.

Feed dragon wing begonias regularly, about every two to three weeks if using a diluted liquid fertilizer and every two to three months if using a slow release granular form, but follow the instructions on the package. Formulas such as 20-20-20 work well, or for an added bloom booster, the middle number (phosphorus) can be higher, such as 15-30-15. Stop fertilizing in late summer so the plant can prepare for winter.

Since the dragon wing begonia is a sterile hybrid that doesn’t produce seeds, it focuses all its attention on flowering. Not only is that a bonus to gardeners, but these everblooming plants are self-cleaning, which means you don’t need to deadhead (cut off the faded blooms). Though little pruning is needed, you may want to trim them for shape now and then or reduce leggy stems.

Common Problems

Diseases to watch out for include botrytis blight, powdery mildew, and pythium root and stem rot. Preventing fungal diseases is key. Avoid watering the leaves and clean up fallen debris in the containers. Avoid heavy garden soil or overwatering. Ensure plenty of air flow between plant foliage.

Pests such as mealybugs, spider mites, thrips, and whiteflies can be troublesome, but a blast of water from the hose will reduce their numbers. Also, remove any heavily infested leaves. Follow that with neem oil, which you can get on Amazon, sprayed on the leaves and stems if needed.

Also note that begonias are toxic to pets and horses. They contain soluble calcium oxalates, however, most of the toxic parts are in underground roots and tubers.

Overwintering

If you enjoyed the dragon wing cultivar you chose this summer, you can overwinter begonias indoors. Cut the containerized plant back by about a third and check it for pests. A blast of water should dislodge any freeloaders. Bring it inside and place it near a bright window. Do not fertilize and water much less than you did outside.

If you don’t want to bring a container plant indoors for winter, you can take 4-inch (10 cm) cuttings to root in water or potting soil to propagate begonias to grow on next year. Wait until the threat of frost is past in the spring before moving your plants back outside. Resume watering and fertilizing and, before you know it, your dragon wing begonia will be back!

Garden blooms today always seem more important than garden flowers tomorrow. But most gardeners are willing to cut back fading flowers in July to allow new, perfect blooms to grow in.

By July, a perennial garden in full bloom may be starting to fade a bit around the edges. Mainstay plants like roses, hydrangeas and dahlias may have blooms that are overblown, faded or wilting. It may be time for a haircut. Another name for a plant trim in July is deadheading. It’s a colorful term for snipping off blossoms to benefit the plant. In some cases, we deadhead to prevent or delay seed formation, but in July, the primary purpose of deadheading flowers is to get a second wave of blooms.

Grab your favorite pair of pruners (our Editor in Chief Melanie swears by her Felco 2 pruners that can be found on Amazon) and get snipping! Here are five plants to deadhead in July for repeat blooms all summer long.

1. Roses

Let’s start with the queen of the flower garden – the rose bush. Despite their difficult-to-grow reputation, most of us have roses in our garden and still get those thrills when the buds open in spring. Deadheading roses is not a universal rule. If your roses drop their blooms and rebloom after that, they are termed “self-cleaning” and do not need deadheading.

But all the others do better with deadheading, not once, not twice, but regularly throughout the summer. You will doubtless see roses fading in July, and – assuming your species is not self-cleaning – deadheading is just the thing to keep your roses looking beautiful.

Deadheading roses is not a complex garden task. Use clean, sterilized pruners and make a cut on the diagonal just above a five-leaflet stem.

2. Salvias

Unlike roses, salvias tend to spread, so, by July, you are more likely to have 30 blooms than 3. The flower spikes of this tough perennial provide a full-service dining area for a wide range of pollinators including the big three, bees, butterflies and hummers. But by July, the first crop of bright flowers are very likely on the decline.

You want the salvia “blossom factory” producing the vibrant blue and purple blossoms, and deadheading your salvia is the key. Snipping now will not just keep the blossoms coming, it will also make the plant bushier, neater, and stop seed production.

Select declining, leggy, flopping or wilting flower spikes and prune them back with a sterilized pruner. Deadhead flower spikes by cutting the stems back. You want to take off most of the stem, making the cut just above a set of leaves.

3. Hydrangeas

Are your hydrangeas reblooming? If so, you can expect more than one crop of flowers over summer, but that only works if you deadhead the faded flowers. But you don’t have to buy special cultivars to get reblooming varieties. The standard, super-popular bigleaf hydrangeas (think snowballs or lacecaps) bloom are reblooming (also called remontant) and so are mountain hydrangeas.

How does this work? These hydrangeas bloom on both old and new wood. The first flower on the wood produced the prior season. Then, once those flowers mature and fade, they bloom a second time on new, current-season wood.

Deadheading these flowers really does result in an entire new crop of gorgeous flowers. Using a sharp, clean pruner, snip off each fading blossom right above a new set of leaves. New buds will develop and mature in late summer, just as other garden flowers are calling it quits for the season.

4. Coneflowers

Coneflowers, also known by their genus name Echinacea, are staples of the perennial garden. They are so easy to grow it seems that they grow themselves. They are known as the top flowers for rank beginners since it is almost impossible to fail. These pretty, daisy-like blooms lor coneflowers, just seem eager to grow and the blooms can last most of the growing season.

Since these colorful flowers do not usually fade in July, why should you consider deadheading? It relates to their eager ways. They reseed happily, even during summer, and can overpopulate the garden. July is a perfect time to nip this problem in the bud, so to speak. Deadheading coneflowers in July will prevent them from early reseeding.

Deadhead with sharp pruners, cleaned and sterilized. Take out the stems just above the first set of leaves and snip right above them. It’s better to deadhead in July than autumn, since the birds are happy to feast on the seeds of spent flowers in fall.

5. Dahlias

Dahlias might be the most beautiful summer flower you didn't know you needed! These big, lush flowers are total showstoppers and look amazing as cut flowers too. Dahlias bloom all summer long and only stop with the first night frost. The long flowering period makes these sun-lovers extremely popular.

But you can take dahlias for flower arrangements in July - and, at the same time - prolong the already long dahlia season. If the flowers are spent, call it deadheading. Pruning wilting dahlia flowers redirect the plant's energy into putting out more blooms. Otherwise, think of it as harvesting cut dahlia stems to enjoy in your home.

In either case, you’ll want to use sharp, sanitized pruners or gardening scissors. Make a diagonal cut down the stem just above a set of leaves. This type of trim allows the plant to produce new growth from the nodes, and, from that growth, even more blooms through the growing season.

In spring and early summer, rose care is all about encouraging new and rapid growth. By July, it’s more about survival. This can be a tough time for roses as temperatures soar and conditions dry. Stress can lead to reduced flowering, pests, and disease getting a foothold.

Good rose care now, during this critical period, is all about keeping them healthy in tough conditions. These simple but important July tasks will help them survive, thrive, and keep flowering through the summer. And what’s the biggest mistake you can make to halt repeat blooms? Check out task number one below.

1. Deadhead Spent Blooms

Repeat-blooming roses produce a gorgeous flush of abundant flowers in late spring and early summer. If you treat them right, they’ll do it again, but July care is critical. The biggest mistake you can make is getting lazy about deadheading or not doing it correctly.

Deadheading roses sends a signal to your plant that it’s not done making flowers yet, stimulating another round of blooms. The correct way to do this is to make a clean cut just above the first set of five leaflets. If your roses grow in clusters, cut off each individual flower as it fades.

Make sure to use clean, sharp shears to prevent disease spread and stem damage. Fiskars' bypass pruning shears, available on Amazon, are a good budget-friendly pick.

It’s better to deadhead regularly rather than waiting for all of the flowers to fade. Check on your bushes every few days and trim off any spent flowers that you see. This one simple chore will keep your roses blooming all summer.

2. Water Deeply

The next most important thing you can do to keep your roses happy, healthy, and blooming is to keep the soil moist. July in many gardens is hot with minimal rainfall. Roses need an inch of water a week, so if it’s not raining, you must provide the water.

The best way to water roses in summer is to water deeply once or twice a week rather than shallowly every day. Deep watering encourages roots to grow deeper into the soil, where it’s cooler. Water with a hose or drip irrigation – this Carparthen kit from Amazon will get you started. Avoid overhead watering, as getting leaves wet encourages fungal disease.

How frequently you give your roses a deep watering depends on several factors. Increase the frequency during very hot or dry conditions. You should also water container roses more often, possibly every day, depending on the weather.

3. Keep the Mulch Fresh

Mulch is a must-have for roses in summer. There are multiple benefits to keeping a clean, two- to three-inch (5–7.5 cm) layer of mulch around rose bushes. The first is that it keeps the soil cool, which helps reduce plant stress.

Mulching around a rose bush also helps retain soil moisture, which is critical during a hot, dry summer. Covering the soil reduces the risk of fungal spores splashing up and onto leaves during watering or rain. Finally, a good layer of mulch helps keep weeds at bay.

July is a good time to make sure the mulch layer around your roses is deep enough and clean. Add more or replace degraded mulch as needed. Always keep the mulch a few inches away from the rose stems, as piling it up there can actually contribute to disease and rot.

You can use straw or shredded bark, but coconut husk is also a good option, like Back to the Roots' Organic Expanding Coconut Husk Mulch.

4. Feed, But Lightly

Roses are notoriously heavy feeders. Fertilizing roses is important for healthy growth and ongoing flowering. You probably started feeding your roses in spring, which is the time to feed heavily to promote new growth. In July, you should keep feeding roses to keep them healthy but not so heavily that they put out a lot of new growth during hot, often dry weather.

Stick with a balanced fertilizer in July, like 10-10-10. You can also look for a rose-specific product, like Miracle-GRO Water Soluble Rose Plant Food, and follow the label instructions.

Water your roses deeply after applying the fertilizer to reduce the risk of stress. If your garden has been going through a major heat wave or drought, skip the fertilizer for now and focus on watering. You can resume feeding once temperatures ease up.

5. Keep an Eye on Pests and Diseases

Rose pests and diseases often take root more readily when plants are stressed. The stress of July heat, humidity, and dry soil means you need to keep a careful eye on your rose bushes. Look for aphids, spider mites, Japanese beetles, black spot, and powdery mildew.

If you do see pests, start with the least damaging method of control, like a spray of water, and, if needed, move on to insecticidal soaps or other pest control products. For signs of disease, tidy up by removing and disposing of any affected leaves. Clean up the ground around the roses to prevent disease spread. Move on to chemical fungicides only if necessary.

BioAdvanced All-In-One Rose and Flower Plant Care Spray provides good protection against pests and diseases.

July Rose Care Essentials

While early summer is a growth period for roses, think of July care as maintenance. Now is the time to protect your roses and encourage more flowers, not to trigger a flush of new growth. Focus on water, deadheading, light feeding, mulch, and pest and disease control to get the most out of your plants.

Roses are known for their graceful beauty and intoxicating aroma. Unfortunately, they are also known for their painful thorns. But did you know that not all roses have thorns? Whether you want climbers, shrubs and miniature beauties, these pain-free roses are ideal for patios, walkways, and other growing spaces where there is a chance people might brush against them.

You can easily grow roses that don’t lash out and enjoy months of gorgeous, fragrant blooms without ever having to worry about a wayward nip. From dramatic vertical climbers that can soften a bare wall to compact beauties tailored for tight patio containers, these varieties prove you don’t have to sacrifice classic rose beauty or rich fragrance just to keep your garden safe and snag-free.

To help you find the best options for your yard, here are 7 outstanding, virtually thornless varieties that cover all the bases for hybrid, climbing, shrub and tea roses, in a range of tones. Each offers smooth, touchable canes and balances disease resistance, reliable hardiness, and standout color.

The Best (Nearly) Thorn-Free Roses

Roses are known for their thorns, but thanks to centuries of breeding, you can find many varieties that are smooth or mostly smooth. Not only are thorn-free roses a real option, but they’re also surprisingly varied. You can choose from ramblers and climbers, traditional shrub types, small patio varieties, and low groundcovers. Make the right choice for your space based on type and mature size.

As you choose a thornless rose, also consider your climate and growing conditions. The rose should fall within your USDA hardiness zone, match the sunlight you have available, and have good disease resistance. It’s also a good idea to consider your soil condition before you start planting. These roses need rich, loamy soil that holds nutrients, but crumbles easily in your hand. Most importantly, they require excellent drainage. Aim for a slightly acidic to neutral pH level (ideally between 6-6.5) to help your plants easily absorb the food they need to thrive.

A good diagnostic tool like the Raintrip 4-in-1 Soil Meter from Amazon can help you quickly check moisture, pH, and nutrient levels so you can amend your planting hole as necessary with organic compost, coarse sand, or horticultural grit. Use this list as a starting point for finding your perfect, thornless roses in any color, growth type, and size. Here are some of our favorite options for smooth, pain-free roses of all types.

1. ‘Madame Alfred Carrière'

This classic climbing rose variety was first introduced in 1875. It’s suitable for zones 5 through 11 and is a repeat bloomer, rewarding good care with season-long creamy white flowers with an intoxicating scent. ‘Madam Alfred Carrière’ is particularly known for its smooth, thornless canes, which can grow 15-20 feet (4.6-6m) long. As a showy climber, this is a great option where you have a lot of vertical space. Grow it along pergolas, fences, arbors, or even walls. It needs some support and training each year to develop a sturdy hold. Deadhead flowers to encourage repeat blooms.

Plant it in a location that receives a minimum of 4-6 hours of daily sunlight. A bit of morning sun maximizes its magnificent flush. It requires deep, well-draining soil enriched with organic compost, and a neutral to slightly acidic pH. Add a thick mulch midsummer to conserve moisture. Fan the canes out horizontally along your trellis or arbor rather than letting them grow straight up. This forces the plant to unlock lateral buds, rewarding you with a dense wall of blossoms from top to bottom. For the same thornless, vigorous climbing habit, you can buy ‘Peggy Martin’ live plants from Amazon which swap the pale blush for rich pink clusters.

2. ‘Zephirine Drouhin’

This is another thornless climber to consider if you have a shady spot with vertical space. Unlike most roses, ‘Zephirine Drouhin’ tolerates partial shade. A spot with morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal. Like our first rose choice, this bourbon climber blooms all season long after a heavy spring flush. The flowers are a rich cherry pink and have an intense aroma. ‘Zephirine Drouhin’ thrives in zones 5-10 and reaches 15 feet (6m) tall. This variety does have some susceptibility to fungal infections, so prune it to improve airflow and only water at the base.

Aim for rich, fertile soil that retains moisture but drains well, boasting an ideal pH between 6-6.5. It’s ideal for north- or east-facing walls, where other varieties languish. Add a generous layer of organic compost mulch to keep the roots cool, coupled with a monthly feeding of a phosphorus-rich rose food through midsummer to fuel its repeat-blooming cycle. Deadhead promptly through July and August to ensure a steady stream of gorgeous pink petals right up until fall. You can buy Green Promise Farms 'Zephirine Drouhin' from Amazon.

3. ‘Sweet Chariot’

‘Sweet Chariot’ is a miniature shrub rose developed in the 1980s, with double pink flowers and a rich fragrance. This rose is compact in size, but also has a trailing growth habit, making it perfect for containers on patios and even hanging baskets. ‘Sweet Chariot’ grows well in zones 5-9, but prefers full sun (at least 6 hours daily). If grown in containers, it will need to be watered frequently, but be sure the soil drains very well. Deadhead the flower clusters as they fade to keep blooms coming all summer long.

This patio-friendly perennial needs a highly fertile, lightweight potting mix blended with perlite or coarse sand to guarantee rapid drainage. Water daily during heatwaves, alongside a bi-weekly application of a diluted liquid seaweed or fish emulsion fertilizer. Choose a container with generous drainage holes at the base and raise it slightly off the ground on pot feet to prevent stagnant water from pooling. Keep a close eye out for spider mites, which frequently target container-grown patio roses in dry, hot weather, and give the foliage a gentle misting with water in the early morning to deter them. For a compact alternative that you can source online, try ‘Petite Knock Out’ from Amazon which also has a low prickle count.

4. ‘Mary Delany’

Most classic shrub roses are very thorny. This exception (previously known as ‘Mortimer Sackler’) is a large shrub rose that grows up to 12 feet (3.7m) tall. ‘Mary Delany’ is known for its pretty, double pink flowers, fruity scent, and nearly smooth canes. Although it’s a shrub, you can train this variety to grow as a climber. It has strong disease resistance and continuous blooms that keep going through to fall. Just deadhead regularly to keep flowers coming. ‘Mary Delany’ is hardy in zones 5-9, and prefers full sun or a little shade. Give your rose regular deep watering.

Provide it with a minimum of 4-6 hours of sunlight. While it thrives in full sun, it is famously capable of handling a bit of dappled afternoon shade without losing its blooming power. It demands a deep bed of rich, loamy soil, with a neutral pH that has been heavily amended with organic matter to ensure good drainage. Add a balanced fertilizer right after the heavy spring flush and maintain a thick 3-inch (8cm) layer of bark mulch around the root zone to lock in moisture. Prune by about one-third in late winter to maintain a tidy, bushy shrub form if you aren't growing it vertically. You can buy ‘Mary Delany’ at Otto and Sons Nursery online.

5. ‘Smooth Angel’

Hybrid tea rose types are known for their strong aromas and large flowers that grow singly on stems, making them ideal for cutting. ‘Smooth Angel’ is from Harvey Davidson, and was developed in the 1980s to be 95% thorn-free. The large flowers on this variety are a light peachy-cream color and have a heavy fragrance. Give ‘Smooth Angel’ a spot in full sun with rich soil that drains very well, and you’ll be able to enjoy smooth, thorn-free flowers in a few distinct flushes throughout the season. It’s an appropriate rose for zones 5-10 and will grow up to two feet (0.6m) tall.

This rose requires a fertile, loamy soil with an optimal pH between 6.0 and 6.5, heavily incorporated with aged organic compost. Give this rose a deep soaking at the root zone once a week and a balanced liquid rose fertilizer immediately after its initial flush to jumpstart the next wave of buds. Avoid planting it in tight, overcrowded spaces or heavy clay, as poor air circulation and stagnant water will quickly invite black spot. Otherwise, this is a hardy beauty. As a peachy alternate that might be easier to track down online, try Heirloom Roses ‘Just Joey’ from Amazon. It has very widely spaced thorns, making it smooth and easy to manage.

6. ‘Iceberg’

Floribunda roses give you abundant clusters of flowers that bloom repeatedly through the growing season. ‘Iceberg’ floribundas were introduced in the 1950s, and they have good disease resistance, they grow vigorously, and they are nearly thornless. The original ‘Iceberg’ has white blooms, but you can now find this desirable variety in a rainbow of colors, including blush pink, bright pink, burgundy red, and yellow. ‘Iceberg’ grows up to 4 feet (1.2m) tall with a shrub form. It grows well in zones 5-9 and needs full sun for the most prolific blooms.

Plant this rose in a prominent location that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. ‘Iceberg’ thrives in a well-draining, fertile loam with a slightly acidic to neutral pH between 6-6.5. Water deeply every week, and give it a mid-season feeding with a high-potassium fertilizer to keep the blooms coming. Prune back by about one-third in late winter to maintain its tidy 4-foot (1.2m) shape. Finally, shear off entire spent flower clusters rather than individual stems after each heavy flush, which triggers an immediate, explosive repeat performance that lasts straight until the first hard frost. You can buy Heirloom Roses Iceberg Floribunda from Amazon.

7. ‘Cambridgeshire’

This David Austin variety isn’t totally thornless, but it has very few spines on its short canes. It’s rare for a groundcover rose to be so smooth, so if you’re looking for a pain-free, low-growing rose, this is the one for you. It’s perfect for sunny areas along pathways. ‘Cambridgeshire’ grows densely and spreads widely while remaining no more than about 18 inches (50cm) tall. It is a repeat bloomer, and the flowers are colorful, transitioning through gold, red, dark pink and lighter pink. It thrives in zones 5-10 in full sun and rich soil drains well. Deadhead to get continuous flowers through the growing season.

‘Cambridgeshire’ needs a highly crumbly, well-draining soil, maintaining an ideal pH of 6-6.5 to support its continuous nutrient intake. Apply a fresh, 2-inch (5cm) layer of hardwood mulch around the base right after planting. Avoid planting it in low-lying depressions or heavy clay where standing water accumulates. Deadheading isn't mandatory, but give the entire patch a light trim with hedge shears in late winter to rejuvenate the plant, prompting an explosive, uniform blanket of colorful blooms. If you can’t find 'Cambridgeshire', try 'Sweet Drift' Groundcover Rose from Walmart which serves up a carpet of bubblegum pink blooms on virtually thornless stems.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

When Joanna Gaines posts anything to Instagram (which is actually quite often), I have to immediately stop scrolling and see if I can do whatever she’s doing in my own house or garden. This time, she posted a video of summer scenes from her farmhouse in Waco, Texas, that featured horses galloping through fields, an adorable summer swing, and best of all, a view of her “Rose Shed,” of which we got a peek back in January 2024.

Naturally, there were climbing roses on the small roof outside, and there was something about the combination of romantic pink blooms, architecture, and sunlight that made me stop and stare at my own bare fence and feel personally victimized. Climbing roses are one of the most achievable upgrades in your garden, but you have to know what you’re doing. Fortunately, a couple of experts helped me out.

Use Your Vertical Space

Most of the time, people think of gardens as horizontal: soil, beds, borders, etc., all at ground level. But climbing roses turn this logic on its head.

Marta Pawlik, Co-Founder and Director of Laik, which manages over 50 luxury vacation properties, has seen the difference firsthand. She says, “Most people only plant to the floor level and do not utilize any of the vertical space above them. When one of my clients decided to grow a single 'Zephirine Drouhin' up her bare stone archway, there was a dramatic increase in the number of bookings for that property. The vertical space is what it's all about!"

An arch, a pergola, a plain garden wall; all of these are just waiting for a climbing rose to make them feel complete.

Choose the Right Variety

It’s often a misconception that all climbing roses are created equal, and variety choice matters more than most people realize. Pawlik tells me she has a firm favorite: Rosa “Gertrude Jekyll” is the first climbing rose I always recommend. I’ve had a number of clients in the Lake District try three different climbing roses over five years (with little success in regards to photography) to be able to justify the asking price per week. By growing a single “Gertrude Jekyll” over her pergola, her listing was booked solid before the end of February. The flower is large, the fragrance is incredible, and the deep pink coloration is worth a lot in sunlight.

The 'Gertrude Jekyll' climbing rose, the variety Marta Pawlik swears by, produces large, bright pink rosettes with one of the strongest old rose fragrances of any English variety, and comes with a five-year guarantee straight from the breeder, David Austin.

For something thornless and forgiving (especially useful on archways where people actually walk through), 'Zephirine Drouhin' is a classic.

Don't Neglect What Goes Underneath

A climbing rose on its own can look a little leggy at the base. Fortunately, the fix is simple: companion planting. Pawlik recommends French lavender beneath your rose as it covers the bare stems, smells incredible, and the purple-pink color combination photographs beautifully. Add alliums in the middle of the garden, and suddenly the whole space will look well-planned rather than accidental.

Thery Jean Christophe, founder of Musa Art Gallery, agrees on the layering approach: "I would pair them with softer companion plants like lavender, catmint, foxgloves, or herbs so the garden feels layered but not chaotic."

Plant a couple of these Hidcote Blue lavender plants (available on Amazon) at the base of your climbing rose. The deep purple blooms and silvery foliage are the companion for pink roses; they'll cover any bare stems, and the fragrance combination is frankly unfair to your neighbors.

Don't Cheap Out on the Plant

This is where most people go wrong, and Pawlik is refreshingly blunt about it, saying, "I once planted a low-grade bare root rose that took the entire summer to explain to the owner why her rose arch looked like a twig with big aspirations."

The advice? Buy a grade-three plant, put it in the ground in autumn, and train every stem to grow horizontally from the start. This is where the blooms really come from; not the vertical stems shooting upward, but the horizontal ones fanning out.

Fake It While You Wait

Climbing roses take time to establish, and for some of us, patience isn't always in plentiful supply. Jean Christophe has a practical workaround, telling me, "For homeowners who want the abundant look faster, I'd suggest combining climbing roses with trellises, containers, and fast-growing companion plants while the roses mature. That way the space feels romantic early on, but still has a long-term design foundation." To me it looks as if you’re dressing the set while the main act is busy getting ready.

The SCENDOR garden arch (available on Amazon) is a sturdy, iron structure standing nearly 8.2 feet tall with a double-layer design built to handle the real weight of a mature climbing rose. So, it’s not just for looks, but for the long haul!

While it may seem like it, Joanna Gaines’ aesthetic isn’t magic; it’s just a thoughtful use of height, the right plant, and the right spot (though the patience part seems like magic to me).

America’s 250th birthday is just around the corner, and you can celebrate right in your own garden. Did you know that many of our founding fathers, including George Washington and Alexander Hamilton, had gardens on their estates, and were deeply invested in the different plants and flowers they grew? This makes sense when you consider how a thriving, self-reliant landscape reflects the thriving, free society they hoped to create.

While we can only speculate as to the contents and layout of the flower gardens of our founding fathers, history has recorded the species of beautiful summer flowers available in the young nation. Unlike some of our hot-house exotics today, yesteryear’s flowers were tough, resilient plants that could surmount issues in their growing environment in a way that reflects American grit.

What better way to celebrate our nation’s historical courage and persistence in the face of challenges than to add some of these amazing plants to your own landscape? We’ve put together a shortlist of 8 flowering beauties that our founding fathers might well have included in their own gardens.

1. Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis)

Talk about a plant with roots deep in the American experiment! The cardinal flower is a North American native, a tough, hardy perennial with brilliant red blooms that was chosen by Thomas Jefferson for his personal garden in Monticello in 1807. Well before that, Native Americans used the plant medicinally.

Today there are dozens of cultivars of this plant with different colored blooms. Plant it in USDA zones 3-9 in a full sun location and moist, well-draining soil. The plants require little maintenance. They grow rapidly and reseed themselves

2. Sweet Pea (Lathyrus odoratus)

The sweet pea is another plant that has been around for centuries. It is an elegant plant with a lovely fragrance that is said to have arrived in England as early as 1699. One can only assume that his graceful beauty, called the queen of the annuals, made its way to the colonies and into the gardens of our founding fathers.

Elegant, graceful and fragrant, sweet peas are vining plants that can get as long as 8 feet in areas with sun and well-draining soil. Vintage sweet pea plants offer vibrant colors and an intense fragrance, making your landscape feel like a cottage garden. Modern cultivars offer a wider variety of shades but some lack the traditional fragrance.

3. Cockscomb (Celosia cristata)

Cockscomb is another of the plants we know for certain that Thomas Jefferson planted in his garden. That’s because he noted the planting of Cockscomb seeds in 1767, describing it as “a flower like the Prince's feather."

Today, cockscomb is a popular garden flower, still noted for its unique “feather” form. The flowers are bright and last long on the plant and also as fresh or dried blooms. Plant cockscomb in full sun and moist, well-drained soils. You will find cockscomb with flowers in purple, blue, white, pink, or lavender. Coclscomb in the Celosia genus is an annual, while a sister variety in the Delphinium genus is a perennial.

4. Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea)

This showy plant with spires of pink-purple tubular flowers grows wild on my mountain in France. But foxglove seeds also made it to the colonies as early as 1735. The plant made the list as being ordered for Jefferson’s Monticello home.

Foxglove is not a diminutive plant, sometimes growing to 5 feet (2m) tall. It is magnificent and tough, growing in USDA zones 4-10 in anyplace there is drainage and some sun. It is toxic and can cause serious injury if touched with bare hands or ingested.

5. Twinleaf (Jeffersonia diphylla)

Twinleaf is a rare woodland wildflower native to North America. Reputed by family members to be in Jefferson’s gardens, it was named in honor of the founding father in 1792.

Twinleaf is a North American perennial with small white flowers that appear on stems in early spring, before the leaves have expanded. The unusual lidded seedpods mature in early June and often go completely dormant in summer.

Twinleaf prefers shade and makes a wonderful groundcover in a suitable location. It offers lush green leaves and flowers, small white blossoms that open in early spring before the leaves. Easy to grow, twinleaf plants are not for the hasty as they can take up to 8 years to bloom from seed.

6. Marigold (Tagetes species)

Most of us know marigolds, flower garden staples with their vibrant, colorful flowers. But did you know that they were planted in Thomas Jefferson’s Montecello in the early 1800s? Native to South America, they made their slow way to America via northern Africa and Europe.

These members of the sunflower family have evolved over time into double garden forms, but Jefferson planted the species form, with single, yellow flowers. Hardy in USDA zone 9 and above, they are generally grown as tough, resilient annuals.

7. Hollyhock (Alcea rosea)

Much of our knowledge about the flowers planted in the early days of our nation comes from the efforts of Thomas Jefferson. In a 1782 Garden Book entry he created a chart of flower bloom months that showed Hollyhocks flowering at Monticello from mid-June through July.

Today there are numerous species of hollyhocks available in commerce. They are known as cold-hardy, adaptable flowering plants, available in almost most colors of the rainbow. These can grow to 8 feet (3m) tall if planted in a full sun location. Use at the back of borders or against fencing for best effect.

8. Larkspur (Consolida ajacis)

Is larkspur one of the toughest annuals out there? Even so, it is one of the plants traditionally used in cottage gardens and attracts pollinators to your yard with its delicate blooms. The foliage can only be called lacy, held high on showy, spiked stems.

This annual was brought to America from the Old World and quickly made itself at home in USDA hardiness zones 2-9. It is extremely hardy and replants itself every year by self-seeding. Just after the birth of our nation, Jefferson had it planted at Monticello. Larkspur prefers a full sun exposure and can grow to 7 feet (2m) tall.

Early summer is peak flowering season with borders packed full of blooms – and if you sow these fast-to-flower plants in July, you can keep it that way until the first frost. All gardens look fabulous right now, but come late August and September, most backyards will be starting to run out of steam as flowers fade and border gaps appear. Except, of course, those gardens owned by savvy gardeners who know what seeds to sow in July for a fresh burst of flowers just as most plants are reaching the end of their blooming cycle.

Those gardens will have borders bright with renewed late summer color and a plentiful profusion of petals, signing the sunny season off with aplomb and continuing far into fall. And all for the price of a few packets of seed!

These breakneck blooms all thrive in pots as well as in the ground, so you can use them to refresh your patio display, too: as quick and clever container gardening ideas go, it's such an easy win. All these plants are sun lovers, so while you’ll need to keep them watered while they germinate and grow their roots deep enough to find their own moisture supply, they’ll cope with midsummer heat, even through that vulnerable seedling stage. Super-tolerant, these easy to grow flowers can also be direct-sown straight into the soil where they’re to bloom.

And oh, the colors they’ll bring to your garden! These are annual plants, completing their lifecycle in a year, which is why they produce their flowers so speedily. That swift journey from sowing to flowering to seed production also means these plants are pretty easy to breed from, so there's a wealth of varieties with ever-more beautiful blooms. So whether you want a bright pop of fiery color to enhance the golden tones of your late-summer ornamental grasses, or a cooling mix of pastel shades to offset the intense heat of late September, you'll have a great choice of glorious cultivars.

Alongside late-blooming perennials such as rudbeckia and asters, these fast-flowering annuals are the secret to full borders through fall. Now you're in the know, sow these blooming beauties, pronto, and make summer last for longer in your garden.

1. ProCut Sunflowers

• Flowers in 50-60 days
• Full sun
• 5-6 feet tall
• Zones 2-11

Imagine your front yard in September, full of these fabulous five-inch flowers atop five-foot stems… a sight to make the neighbors stop and sigh! Sunflowers have come a long way since we all grew them as kids, poking plump seeds into the soil and watering earnestly before the excitement of fresh green sprouts and yellow flowers far above our heads. These days, there’s still plenty of joy to be had with these easy to grow flowers, but now it’s all about the fabulous colors, from lemon yellow to lusciously dark reds.

Most annual sunflowers are fast growers but, in July, choose the extra-speedy ProCut series. These grow one flower on a sturdy stem, so are far faster than varieties that grow multiple blooms on a branching stem.

Bred for the cut flower industry, ProCut sunflowers are incredibly reliable, too, and have beautiful, often bronzed tones with a vintage vibe just perfect for lazy end-of-summer days. Eden Brothers stocks a super selection of seeds: ‘ProCut White Lite’ is the palest; ‘ProCut White Nite’ has the same creamy white petals but a wonderfully dark center; ‘Procut Red’ is a rich burgundy; ‘ProCut Red Lemon Bicolor’ has red petals dipped in yellow; and ‘ProCut Plum’ (pictured) is a divine blend of cream and soft maroon.

Can’t decide? Eden Brothers also offers a ProCut Sunflower Bundle of five varieties.

Because this series was originally intended for floristry, these sunflowers are pollenless. They do produce nectar, however, so are still of some use to pollinators. The up-side is that the lack of pollen means these flowers aren’t in a rush to produce seeds so last incredibly well on the stem and in a vase. Still, if you want a yard full of fall flowers, too, it's a smart move to sow a few seeds every two weeks.

2. Sweet Alyssum

• Flowers in 45-60 days
• Full sun
• 3-6 inches tall
• Zones 2-11

At the opposite end of the size spectrum is sweet alyssum and, while these pretty blooms may be small, they’ll bring so much storybook charm to your late-summer garden, right up to the first frost. Lobularia maritima evolved to grow in harsh coastal conditions so it laughs in the face of midsummer heat, quickly covering bare soil left by wilting, less-tough plants. Because it’s so tiny, it won’t crowd out bigger plants, so you can use it to add gently spreading pools of groundcover color around other plants in a border, and to refresh patio pots of fading perennials.

Growing incredibly quickly from seed to flower in as few as 45 days, this little lovely is a great choice to sow in July as it’s super-quick to germinate and spreads to 10 inches, filling gaps fast. You’ll soon discover that sweet alyssum has a glorious honeyed fragrance, too, adding sweet scent to your late-summer outdoor space.

Whatever your plant palette, white ‘Carpet of Snow’ acts as a fantastic foil in a border to show off bigger plants, and is available from Burpee. ‘Rosie O’Day’, available from Eden Brothers, has rose-colored flowers that are fabulous in a cottage garden; also available from Eden Brothers, ‘Royal Carpet’ is a bright violet purple, while ‘Oriental Nights’ brings deeper shades.

For a wonderful multi-toned carpet of tiny flowers, choose a blended mix of all these tones. As its name suggests, ‘Allure Pastel Blend’ has a romantic blend of appealing pale petals, and is available from Botanical Interests; ‘Paletta Mix’ has stronger tones and is available from Eden Brothers.

While sweet alyssum is a short-lived perennial in zones 9-11, it’s grown as an annual in other zones.

3. Calendula

• Flowers in 60-90 days
• Full sun
• 12-24 inches high
• Zones 3-10

If you think Calendula officinalis is all about orange daisies, think again. There are now striking calendula varieties in sunset tones from the palest yellow to petals backed in mahogany red, but the prettiest are the ombre cultivars with a mix of shades. ‘Zeolights’ has bronzy-orange petals that fade to a dusky pink, and seeds are available from Botanical Interests. ‘Strawberry Blonde’, available from Eden Brothers, adds a golden yellow to its peachy tones, its petals backed in maroon. ‘Sunset Buff’ (pictured) also has a contrasting reverse shade, the rusty red backing of its petals highlighting their creamy apricot front (also available from Eden Brothers).

There are surprising shapes now, too, such as ‘Calexis Orange’, available from Burpee, whose rolled petals create a cactus-like flower. Calendula is also one of the easiest edible flowers to grow, and their petals make a pretty sprinkle on salads, pasta, pancakes and – the best! – avocado toast.

These sunset tones are especially beautiful as a garden transitions from summer into fall, ushering in a new seasonal palette. Calendula, also known as pot marigold, is super-easy to grow from seed, and will keep flowering till the first frost. It self-seeds readily, too, so you’ll probably be treated to another show of pretty petals next summer, and every summer forever after, for free.

4. Zinnias

• Flowers in 60-80 days
• Full sun
• 12-30 inches high
• Zones 2-10

Not only do zinnias flower for a long time, each bloom lasts for up a week on the plant so one packet of seeds will bring an explosion of color to your garden. The time zinnias take to grow from seed to flower is pretty predictable, with smaller varieties or those with simpler single flowers taking around two months and more complex, double flowers another few weeks to develop.

This means it’s easy to choose whether to prioritise speed over shape, depending on your zone, or vice versa – or why not sow two varieties to enjoy the best of both worlds?

The Profusion series is especially good to sow in July because it’s fast to flower and has excellent disease resistance. Traditional zinnias can sometimes struggle with powdery mildew, so opting for a variety with strong resistance will keep your plants looking good and performing well all through fall to the first frost. Profusion zinnias are also self-cleaning, which means they don’t need deadheading, as new blooms continuously replace old ones. They work well in a pot as well as a bed, as the plants naturally grow into a neat mound.

Glorious color choices for late summer include 'Profusion Apricot', available from Eden Brothers, with a fabulous range of soft, warm tones. 'Profusion Red-Yellow Bicolor', also available from Eden Brothers, offers stronger shades, or if you really want to power your garden from late summer into fall, there’s vibrant orange 'Profusion Double Fire' and rich red and pink 'Profusion Double Hot Cherry' (pictured), both also available from Eden Brothers.

Another super way to use zinnias to add late-season sparkle to your garden is to choose a zesty-toned fast-growing variety such as ‘Tequila Lime’, available from Burpee. The striking lime-green color will freshen up your yard in late summer, then provide a contrast to make warm fall tones appear more fiery.

Zinnia petals are edible, too, and look so beautiful frozen into ice cubes (use boiled water to get clear ice cubes so you can appreciate the petals) for late-summer sundowners on the patio.

5. Nasturtiums

• Flowers in 45-80 days
• Sun or partial shade
• Tropaeolum minus 8-14 inches high; Tropaeolum majus 1-10 feet tall
• Zones 2-10

So quick and easy to grow from seed, nasturtiums will bring a kaleidoscope of color to your garden in late summer, and just look at those fresh green leaves! There are two types of nasturtium, which matters for a July sowing.

Tropaeolum majus is a climbing nasturtium but can also be grown in a hanging basket or tall container so its stems trail downwards, or as groundcover. Some have stems that only grow to a foot long, and these don’t take long to flower so are a good choice for a July sowing; others can reach up to 10 feet, and they’re better sown earlier in spring. Tropaeolum minus is a dwarf, bushy nasturtium, so all varieties are fine to sow in July.

While nasturtiums will happily grow in full sun to partial shade, it’s better to give them a little respite from the sun when sowing in July. As long as they have 6 hours of sunshine, they’ll flower well. Indeed, the best way to get your nasturtiums to bloom well is to give them poor soil, as too many nutrients will encourage them to prioritise foliage over flowers. Get these right and your nasturtiums will keep flowering to the first frost.

Botanical Interests stocks a fabulous range of nasturtiums in a wide range of colors, from the sunny yellows of ‘Butterscotch’ to the spicy mix of oranges in ‘Fiesta Blend’ and the rich reds of ‘Cherry Rose Jewel’. All these are Tropaeolum majus but only reach a foot high so are perfect for a July sowing. For a pot-friendly Tropaeolum minus, then the deep ruby of ‘Black Velvet’, also from Botanical Interests, would be a divinely dramatic choice.

If you’re looking for more subtle shades, then Burpee stocks ‘Sweethearts Mix’ in a pastel mix of lemon, rose and apricot.

And yes, you can eat nasturtium seeds – and those lovely leaves – too!

They say that scent is the soul of a flower, but let's face facts; the impact is well and truly amplified to the max once the sun has set. After all, there are few things more magical than stepping outside on a warm summer evening and being hit by the scent of flowers drifting through the air.

If there is one thing I know, it's that some fragrant plants don't really come into their own until the sun sets; my own beautiful jasmine, in fact, proves this point a thousand times over.

The result? A garden that smells every bit as good as it looks – particularly on hot summer nights, when warm air helps carry those intoxicating scents around the yard.

The Best Night-Scented Flowers

Sure, daytime blooms may steal the spotlight, but many beautiful flowers have evolved to release their strongest fragrance after dark to attract nighttime pollinators such as fireflies, bats, and other nocturnal cuties. (Possibly even your very own birth month animal, if you're lucky).

So, whether you're creating a dedicated moon garden or simply want your own patio to feel a little more luxurious after sunset, these are the night-scented flowers are well worth planting.

1. Gardenia

Few scents are as unmistakable – or as luxurious – as gardenia. The shrub's creamy white flowers release a rich, heady perfume... and yes, you'd best believe that it only seems to intensify on warm summer evenings.

In warmer USDA planting zones, gardenias can be grown outdoors year-round, while gardeners in cooler climates often enjoy them in containers that can be moved indoors over winter. Either way, placing one near a doorway or patio is a decision you are unlikely to regret.

Shop Gardenia Plants Below:

2. Mock Orange

When mock orange bursts into flower, you'll know about it. Its frothy white blooms fill the garden with a delicious citrus-and-jasmine fragrance that drifts beautifully through warm evening air.

This easy-going shrub is ideal for borders, wildlife gardens, or anywhere you regularly sit outdoors, especially if you fancy doing so after sunset (I realize I sound like Count Dracula, but I promise my intentions are pure!).

Just be warned: once you've experienced mock orange in full bloom, you'll find yourself inventing reasons to go outside. Try the Illuminati Sparks™ Mock Orange from Nature Hills for a dreamy citrus-blossom fragrance that perfumes the air and draws butterflies and bees in abundance.

3. Moonflower

If there were an official flower of the moon garden, this would be it. Moonflowers unfurl their large, luminous white blooms at dusk, often opening so quickly that you can watch it happen in real time.

These night-scented flowers remain open throughout the night, releasing a sweet fragrance that attracts moth pollinators. Grow them over an arch, pergola, or trellis near a seating area and you'll be rewarded with a truly theatrical evening display.

Pick up some Moonflower Seeds from Sow Right Seeds and you're halfway there, essentially!

4. Night-Scented Stock

Night-scented stock is proof that looks can be deceiving. By day, its small flowers can appear fairly unassuming. But come evening, this cottage garden favorite transforms.

As temperatures cool, the blooms release an intensely sweet, spicy perfume that can fill an entire garden. Plant it close to paths, patios, or open windows where its fragrance can be fully appreciated.

Pick up a packet of Evening Scented Stock Seeds from Everwilde Farms, then, stat!

5. Flowering Tobacco

Nicotiana is another of those plants that lovingly saves its best for later in the day. In fact, many varieties produce tubular flowers that become especially fragrant in the evening, making them a 'duh, obviously' kind of choice in moon gardens and pollinator-friendly planting schemes.

The elegant blooms also attract hummingbirds and moths, adding movement as well as fragrance to your nighttime garden. Pick up some Flowering Tobacco Seeds from Seedville USA, then, and get to work!

6. Night-Blooming Jasmine

An obvious choice? Maybe, but there's good reason for it, as night-scented jasmine is legendary among fragrance lovers. Although the flowers themselves are relatively small and inconspicuous, they produce an extraordinarily powerful scent after dark.

The perfume can travel surprisingly long distances on still summer evenings, so it's best planted where its fragrance can be enjoyed without overwhelming nearby spaces. In cooler regions, it grows well in containers that can be brought indoors for winter.

Shop Jasmine Plants:

7. Angel's Trumpet

With its enormous pendulous flowers and intoxicating evening fragrance, angel's trumpet (also known as brugmansia) is one of those night-scented flowers guaranteed to stop visitors in their tracks.

Many varieties become most fragrant at night, releasing a sweet perfume designed to attract moth pollinators. The tropical-looking blooms make a dramatic statement in containers or borders, particularly when positioned where they can be enjoyed during long summer evenings.

A quick note: All parts of angel's trumpet are toxic if ingested, so take care when planting around children and pets.

A great garden shouldn't clock off when the sun goes down, and it's never about it being just as good as it looks; fragrance is everything! And, thankfully, all it takes is a few night-scented plants into your borders, containers, or patio displays, you can create an outdoor space that feels just as enchanting at 9pm as it does at 9am.

Personally, as someone who rarely gets a moment of peace until long after bedtime battles have concluded, I'm all for plants that save their best for the evening shift.

Gardening life is full of the unexpected, like discovering a rogue tomato plant growing randomly behind my ranunculus, or (less good) finding a snail hiding in my hanging basket this morning (seriously, how?). But in the realm of things that are totally expected, my mixed cosmos plants are starting to rise, and I couldn’t be happier to see their delicate, feathery foliage dancing in the breeze.

Few annuals capture the carefree, sun-drenched spirit of summer quite like cosmos. However, recent heat waves have me feeling hyper-vigilant, and the initial excitement of my spring cosmos planting is quickly morphing into the reality of grappling with blistering midsummer sun. Left to their own devices in the heat, cosmos can quickly lose their structural integrity. So if your plants look tired or overwhelmed by the elements, you’re definitely not alone. July is the tipping point for these generous bloomers, and a little focused attention right now is exactly what they need to thrive.

Intense summer sun can trick cosmos into a reproductive panic almost as quickly as flowers start arriving, accelerating the process of setting seed rather than pushing out new flower buds. All that dizzy energy can leave plants exhausted. Without help, your beloved late summer blooming flowers will prematurely shut down before they hit their prime. So the stakes are high if you want to dodge this midsummer slump. Luckily, there are some easy ways to safeguard your cosmos from these seasonal stressors. Just a few little gestures now will yield sturdier stems, larger flower heads, richer color saturation, and an extended flush of cosmos that lasts right until fall frost.

Make Time for Cosmos in July

Some of these July essentials will hinge on when you planted your cosmos. Spring-sown varieties will be presenting feathery foliage and a scattered preview of their first vibrant blooms. Meanwhile, young cosmos are still developing the structural foundation for their floral debut. But no matter where your plants are at, midsummer represents the crossroads for their full seasonal potential. The simple steps you take right now will dictate whether you see staggering fall cosmos or premature collapse.

Cosmos thrive in USDA hardiness zones 2-11, but regional variations may throw up more humidity (in the south) or arid conditions (in the west). Regular checks are key to plant health. A minimum of 6-8 hours of sunlight daily is non-negotiable, or else those hard-working stems will weaken and flop. It’s also a good idea to keep an eye on soil moisture levels. Your cosmos needs fast-draining, lean conditions. You can buy the highly rated XLUX Deep Probe Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon to gauge moisture levels at the deep root zone without disturbing fragile root networks.

It is a common misstep to pamper your cosmos plants with rich soils. Planting cosmos in highly organic beds will backfire. They crave poor-to-average soils, so don’t fuss with too many fancy amendments. When forced to struggle slightly, their survival instincts kick in, and that’s ironically what triggers that abundance of flower heads. Just ensure decent spacing between plants, as a crowded patch restricts airflow and runs the risk of powdery mildew. Aim for 12-15 inches (30-38cm).

Now for these quick July cosmos tweaks! They’re really not going to take long, and I promise they will greatly improve the vitality, strength, saturation and abundance of your display. Just find yourself 10 minutes and a mild day, and your cosmos will thank you with a vibrant, long-lasting display redolent of a bloom factory.

1. Support and Staking

Providing reliable structural support is one of the most critical things you can do for your cosmos in July. These high-octane bloomers grow with mad speed during the long, warm days, so their top-heavy blooms can quickly outpace the strength of their stems. And spring-sown cosmos varieties have reached a height where they are susceptible to shifting winds. So take action now to help the gang maintain their mighty stature.

In borders or raised beds, the most efficient method is a grid technique. Instead of staking every single stem (who has the time, friends?), simply slide sturdy bamboo canes or wooden stakes carefully into the ground around the perimeter of the plant cluster, spacing them 2-3 feet (60-90cm) apart. Weave soft jute twine between the stakes to create a supportive matrix the cosmos can lean against. Buy Bamboogro 4Ft Natural Stakes from Walmart for back-of-border cosmos varieties, and soft twine like Kinglake Green Jute from Amazon to keep stems in check without friction or stem slicing. Allow for a bit of natural sway.

If you are growing cosmos in containers, opt for low-profile, circular link-stakes or a miniature dark green trellis slipped into the back of the container. This keeps the presentation uncluttered while preventing calamity during high summer gusts. Do a little ‘wobble test’ once a week, just to be on the safe side, and adjust accordingly.

2. Smart Watering for High Heat

Smart watering: what’s that? You might well ask. Basically, when it comes to potentially heavy bloomers like cosmos, the way you water directly impacts longevity. It’s tempting to give flower beds quick, daily sprinkles. But this superficial watering keeps moisture trapped in the top inch of soil, which quickly evaporates and forces the plant's roots to stay near the surface, which isn’t good for them in the heat. A different approach is needed to ensure plants remain crisp, vibrant, and strong.

What your cosmos needs in July is deep hydration. Instead of a daily splash, give your plants a thorough soak a couple of times a week, ensuring the moisture penetrates 6 inches (15cm) into the earth. Watering the base of plants allows you to direct hydration where it is needed. For larger drifts of cosmos, try an automated or manual low-pressure soaker hose system. Try the Water Right 50-Foot Soaker Hose from Amazon for uniform, slow hydration for healthier root zones.

Potted cosmos have severely confined root zones and dry out with alarming speed. If the top inch of potting mix feels dry, water them thoroughly until moisture runs out of the drainage holes. Check daily, and water early in the morning to give your cosmos time to absorb the moisture before the midday sun intensifies.

3. Controlled Feeding (But Not Too Much)

The most powerful tool in your cosmos care kit can often be restraint. This sounds like a strange thing to put in an action plan for July, but hear me out. I get the urge to sprinkle feeds and supplements hither and yon, but cosmos detest being pampered. Remember what I said about them responding better to a little bit of struggle? When these plants receive an excess of nutrients (particularly nitrogen), the plant starts producing a mass of leaves, forgetting to push out flower buds. So the better course of action now is to go sparing with any extra goodness.

For cosmos in beds and borders that are thriving, you can step away from the fertilizer entirely if the soil is average or poor. Only if your cosmos seem stunted or pale, or blooming has ground to a halt, do they require a minor pick-me-up. Opt for a small, diluted dose of a liquid organic fertilizer that is rich in phosphorus and potassium, which stimulates root vitality and blossom size rather than foliage growth. Gentle, organic tonics like liquid seaweed or kelp meal are nice low-stress options for July. For a light seaweed boost, add Neptune's Harvest Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer from Amazon to protect your cosmos from intense sun and heat stress.

For containers, essential nutrients will likely be getting washed out much quicker. Treat potted cosmos to a half-strength, diluted dose of a liquid bloom-boosting formula just once or twice through the month. This tiny gesture keeps things balanced without overwhelming the roots. Try Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Bloom Booster Flower Food from Walmart for a little phosphorus lift (in low doses, only).

4. Strategic Pinching

Strategic pinching this month is one of the most effective ways to prod your cosmos into a multi-branched display (which means more heads, and more flowers). Left to their own devices, cosmos grow as single stems. They produce one lone flower at the top, before quickly becoming top-heavy, leaning into walkways, and prematurely setting seed. But if you pinch out the main growing tips, you double or triple your blooming power. The pinching process activates dormant side nodes along the stem, and the result is a flower party where everyone’s invited.

The way you pinch depends on plant maturity and growth stage. For successional or later-sown varieties that are 12-18 inches (30-45cm) tall but haven't generated flower buds, July is prime time for a pinch. Use your fingertips or a sharp tip-pruning tool, like our team favorite Fiskars Micro-Tip Snips from Amazon, for clean cuts. Snip away the top couple of inches (5cm) of the main shoot, just above a sturdy set of leaves. This single action will multiply the number of lateral branches, creating a denser, sturdier plant canvas that can hold plenty more future blossoms.

For older, spring-sown cosmos varieties that are already tall but look leggy or top-heavy, you can try tip-pruning. Look closely down the stem to find a strong new branch junction, and prune the main stem back to that point. This keeps the overall shape tidy, encourages a fresh wave of blooms lower down the plant, and eliminates the risk of one stalk snapping and killing the party dead.

5. Deadheading

I’ve left the best until last. And I can’t believe I’m suggesting you ignore everything else in this guide, but if you can only do one thing for your cosmos this month, please make it deadheading. This is what transforms your plants into a seemingly relentless bloom factory. The science is both simple and profound: once a cosmos flower fades and forms a seed pod, it signals to the plant that its mission is complete. The plant will divert its energy away from flower production, causing new buds to grind to a halt. By removing cosmos heads now, you trick the plant to push out fresh blooms. Sorry, cosmos (well, sorry, not sorry).

It is virtually impossible to over-deadhead your plants, and it’s wise to do this at least twice a week, where you see flowers fading. But don’t yank the head off with your fingers. Instead, trace the spent flower stem down to the next node or set of healthy leaves, and make a clean, angled cut above that junction. This routine is the same across borders, raised beds, and containers. Save yourself a little back and forth while deadheading with a bucket or basket. Modanu Mesh Baskets from Walmart do excellent double duty as garden trimming carriers and picnic baskets. Oh, and in case you aren’t sure which buds are new and which are spent: new buds are round, hard, and chartreuse-green, while spent heads are cone-shaped and soft.

Shop Cosmos Companions

Keeping on top of your cosmos display deserves a reward. Investing in a few high-impact companion plants provides an insurance policy for a high-vibrancy summer. These floral partners carry plenty of visual clout and turn your beds and borders into a wealth of contrasting textures and relentless color, for an unforgettable late-summer display. Go on, treat yourself.

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Nothing deflates a summer evening outdoors faster than a lungful of someone else’s lighter fluid, or the exhaust drifting off a busy road. Patio season should be the easy part of summer – a drink, a chair, and the light going gold over the fence. Then a neighbor fires up the grill with a bit too much lighter fluid, and your hard-earned relaxation time is hijacked. Or you might find rush hour stacks up on the road out back, and the air suddenly smells like anything but a garden.

You can’t always stop these things from happening, of course – but the right fragrant plants can help you create a buffer of scent (a sort of fragrant force field or fragrant bubble, as it were) that allows you to reclaim your outdoor moments and enjoy your patio in peace. It comes down to choosing fragrant plants that actually push their scent around. These scented patio plants are backed by leaves that are thick enough to block out unwelcome aromas, while amplifying desirable fragrance.

By introducing these high-potency container plants and fast-growing shrubs this month, you can enjoy the benefits of gorgeous scent and privacy screens together. These fragrant plants for outdoors are also lovely to look at, so you can carry off this exceptional aromatic force field in style and enjoy the benefits all summer long. Here’s how to choose high-impact summer patio plants to make a beautifully scented sanctuary.

Best Plants for a Scent-Proof Patio

Fast results matter when summer’s already here, so these 8 fragrant plants lean toward quick establishment and a strong, reliable perfume. Most can be added and planted this June and be pulling their weight within weeks, whether in a border or a big container by the door. In order to create this aromatic forcefield around your patio, you just need to be mindful of local microclimates and plant behavior.

Consider your local USDA hardiness zone and wind direction. Position the highest potency, dense-foliage shields on the windward side of your patio to catch and diffuse incoming air pollution before it reaches your chairs. June planting can put young root systems up against intense summer heat waves. Focus on maximizing soil health inside patio containers or borders for rapid, deep root anchoring.

Before planting, make sure your soil is in good condition. Use a comprehensive diagnostic tool like the Luster Leaf Rapitest Soil Tester from Amazon to check soil pH and nutrient levels. If your soil is heavy, tired, or dry, amend the drainage by adding a little coarse sand or perlite into the planting hole, or nourish the earth with some moisture-retaining organic matter. An amendment like Back to the Roots Organic Compost from Lowe's will lock in vital hydration and protect tender summer roots from early heat shock, ensuring an immediate explosion of defensive growth.

To prevent creating a cloying perfume overkill, where competing heavy scents clash like a department store counter, be sure to layer your plants based on their diurnal patterns. Some varieties unleash their essential oils under the blazing afternoon sun, while others wait for dusk to release volatile organic compounds. By mixing daytime performers with evening champions, you maintain a balanced, non-stop barrier against rogue odors – and all without exhausting your senses.

1. Mock Orange

Few shrubs announce June quite like mock orange (philadelphus). For a couple of weeks, it throws out clusters of white blooms that smell unmistakably of orange blossom, heavy enough to roll across a yard on a warm evening and bury whatever the grill is doing. It’s a big, arching plant (as high as 10 feet/3m in most gardens) so it works as a loose screen along a fence line, foliage filling in to soften both noise and sightlines. It thrives in zones 4-8, thriving beautifully in full sun to partial shade. The intense, citrusy perfume peaks during the late afternoon and warm June evenings, making it the perfect antidote to summer barbecues.

To maximize its impact, it demands sharp, well-draining earth. Pair it with dark purple salvias or low-growing catmint to create a stunning visual contrast while the mock orange handles the odor control. Prune it immediately after its flowering cycle wraps up, but don't cut back into old wood or you will sacrifice next year’s aromatic canopy. You can buy Proven Winners Illuminati Spice Mock Orange Plants from Amazon for an intense, rich orange-blossom smoke shield around your patio.

2. Star Jasmine

Got a railing you’d rather not see? Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) pulls double duty. The foliage is evergreen and glossy, holding all winter and screening long after everything else drops. By early summer, it’s covered in small white pinwheel flowers. That sweet, honeyed jasmine smell travels, too: you’ll pick it up across the yard. Grow up an obelisk or trellis, so twining stems have something to grab. A woody perennial vine in zones 8-11 (and an exceptional annual or overwintered plant further north), it is great for continuous scent. Its peak perfume release triggers as daylight fades, weaving a rich, honeyed shield.

Just provide consistent weekly moisture during its first summer to establish a deep root system. Plant it alongside trailing rosemary or silver dichondra, as the herbal notes perfectly balance its sweetness. You can buy Pixies Gardens Star Jasmine Plants from Walmart for a thick privacy screen of honeyed evening scent. Give it a year to find its feet, then it hits 10-15 feet (3-4.5m) and wants nothing but the odd trim. Full sun gets the most flowers, while part shade works, just a lighter show.

3. Gardenia

Gardenia (G. jasminoides) is a bit of a diva, but well worth the fuss. The smell genuinely stops conversations (thick and creamy, almost tropical), but the plant comes with demands. It wants acidic soil and steady moisture, and it feels the cold; let any of that slip, and it sulks. So keep this beauty in a pot. Fill a large pot with an ericaceous mix, and stand it by your chairs so the perfume lands where you sit. Somewhere cold? Bring it in before the first frost. Through summer, feed it something made for acid-lovers and shade it from harsh afternoon sun, and the waxy white flowers will keep coming for weeks.

This elegant evergreen perennial shrub thrives in zones 7-11. Its signature creamy fragrance lingers strongly throughout daytime hours and humid summer nights. Just add a dedicated iron supplement if you notice yellowing leaves with green veins. Frame container gardenias with acid-loving companions like dwarf blechnum ferns or trailing blue lobelia for a lush, moisture-retentive microclimate beside your patio lounger. You can buy Frost Proof Gardenia Plants from Nature Hills for a resilient, heavy-blooming variety that tolerates cold snaps and thrives in patio pottery.

4. Lavender

Lavender (lavendula) turns up on every list of scented patio plants, and fair enough. This fragrant beauty is tough and barely needs watering once it’s settled. What really sells it, though, is that the fragrance works even with nothing in bloom. One brush of the foliage does it. So put it somewhere you’ll make contact, like edging your patio. Every contact will release that clean, resiny smell. The English type takes cold better, while bigger hybrids flower harder and punch out a sharper note. Both want full sun and sharp drainage, and wet feet will finish them, so ease off on watering once roots take. A light shear after the first flush can buy a second, smaller round later.

This sun-lover is hardy in zones 5-9, and its essential oils are most volatile under midday heat, cutting cleanly through heavy barbecue smoke. Mix plenty of coarse sand or fine gravel into your potting medium to guarantee lightning-fast drainage. Pair with ornamental oregano or yellow coreopsis for a highly drought-tolerant shield that repels pests while refreshing your air. Buy Phenomenal French Lavender from Fast Growing Trees for a refreshing barrier against stale and smoky air.

5. Sweet Autumn Clematis

This one’s all about timing. While the rest of the garden packs it in for the year, sweet autumn clematis (C. terniflora) is just getting going. From late summer into fall it buries itself under tiny white stars, and the vanilla-almond smell carries way past wherever you planted it. Fair warning, though: it grows fast. A single season can put on 15-20 feet (4.5-6m), so give it a fence or a solid arch. This perennial vine is exceptionally hardy in zones 4-9, preferring a setting where its roots are shaded but its climbing canopy can enjoy full sunshine. Its potent scent reaches maximum strength under the late-afternoon sun.

The flip side of all that energy is that it self-seeds like mad in mild areas and shows up where you never put it. Chop it down hard in late winter, 12 inches (30cm) from the ground, and it comes back thicker and tidier. Plant alongside boxwood or blue star juniper to mask its bare winter base. Not much else hides an ugly chain-link fence this quick while smelling this good. You can buy Hirt’s Garden Stores Sweet Autumn Clematis Vine Plants from Amazon for late-summer structural screening.

6. Heliotrope

Stick your nose in a heliotrope (Heliotropium arborescens) and you’ll swear someone’s baking; it has a lovely warm vanilla scent, with a hit of cherry pie. Cherry pie is the old name people gave it, which tells you plenty. It’s a small plant, a foot or two (30-60cm) tall, so it tucks into a pot or window box, holding its deep purple flower heads down low, right at nose height when you’re seated. Frost kills it, so most folks grow it as an annual or haul it indoors for winter. It runs thirstier than lavender, too; let it bake bone-dry and it sulks. Keep pinching the dead heads off and it flowers all summer. Pound for pound, on a small patio, almost nothing throws this much smell.

Hardy in zones 10-11, it thrives in rich, consistently damp soil with full morning sun and light afternoon shade. Its comforting, bakery-sweet fragrance is steadily active throughout the day, intensifying in high-humidity. Deadhead faded violet clusters continuously to stimulate new blooms. Place heliotrope alongside chartreuse sweet potato vine or white bacopa for a lively color contrast. You can buy Heliotrope Plants from Walmart in groups of three, for dense, fruity pie-scented blocks.

7. Fragrant Roses

Nothing says perfumed garden quite like a rose, provided you pick for scent, not looks (plenty of modern roses were bred for color and lost the fragrance). Old garden roses (rosa) and the heavily perfumed modern shrubs (like ‘Fragrant Cloud’ or ‘Gertrude Jekyll’) definitely deserve a spot near a seating area, throwing real scent on warm, still evenings. Repeat-flowering kinds run from early summer to frost if you deadhead. They thrive beautifully in zones 5-9, demanding six hours of sunlight daily to fuel their blooms. Classic damask and tea aromas peak in the early morning as the dew evaporates, providing a refreshing morning shield against street exhaust.

Apply a thick layer of shredded bark mulch to protect roots and maintain moisture. Add some white alyssum or silver sage around the base of your rose containers to cover bare lower stems. Give roses sun and decent airflow, plus a yearly feed, and they reward the attention generously. Set one in a roomy container near the table and the perfume meets you before you’ve sat down. You’ll find a gorgeous range of Hybrid Tea Rose Varieties available from Nature Hills, many offering exceptional fragrance and continuous summer rebloom.

8. Flowering Tobacco

Save a spot for the evening crowd. Flowering tobacco (Nicotiana alata) keeps its scent under wraps by day, then lets go at dusk. Its sweet, jasmine-ish perfume that arrives just as you’re heading out with a drink. For anyone who lives on their patio after dark, it’s your ultimate late-evening shield against neighborhood lighter fluid and smoky grills. The tall white varieties are especially potent. Nicotiana shoots up fast to 3-5 feet (0.9-1.5m) and flowers for months if you deadhead and water. Most are annuals, and are a cheap and quick way to plug a gap. Tuck a few in among chairs where the night scent settles, and the patio will get a second life after sundown.

Flowering tobacco loves rich, well-draining soil and a location with full sun or partial shade. Just handle with care, as all parts of the plant are toxic if ingested by curious pets. Nicotiana needs uniform, moderate moisture to sustain its trumpet blooms. Group these luminous beauties behind low-growing night phlox or dark leaf coleus for a glowing evening retreat that smells exquisite. You can get some lovely Nicotiana Seeds from Eden Brothers, including Lime Green and Sensation Mix.

Shop Fragrant Superstars

High-potency aromatic plants represent highly effective natural ways to neutralize intrusive neighborhood odors, while also adding an extra dimension of tranquility and harmony to outdoor spaces. Combining daytime citrus notes with rich evening honey undertones creates a multi-layered fragrance shield that effortlessly takes care of the dirty work. Make some room for these potent and pretty summer scent heroes.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

If you didn’t get all your planting done in spring, don’t worry! It’s not too late to add a few more heat-tolerant perennials to your garden in June. There are plenty of tough, yet lovely varieties you can plant in the middle of summer that will provide you with beautiful blooms year after year – no matter how hot the weather gets.

Though you can plant certain heat-tolerant perennials in June, it’s best to install new plants in the morning or evening when temperatures are a bit cooler. Water them in deeply, and consider adding a little compost or gentle organic plant starter, like Espoma Organic Bio-Tone Starter Plus Plant Food on Amazon. This helps prevent transplant shock and allows them to settle into their new home more easily. Once they’re established, they will be able to tolerate even the hottest summer sun beating down on them.

Here are the best heat-tolerant perennials to plant in June for blooms that won’t wilt and fade when a heatwave hits. Add these gorgeous plants to your garden now for heat-proof flowers that return each summer.

June Planting Essentials

June-planted perennials need a little extra help while they settle in. Before you plant, it’s worth having a good watering can or hose wand on hand, plus a layer of mulch to help keep moisture in the soil during hot spells.

1. Black-Eyed Susan

Black-eyed Susans are just about the lowest-maintenance perennials you can find. They easily self-seed and spread to fill in garden gaps. They thrive even in poor, rocky soil. Plus, they almost never need water.

Just plant these heat-tolerant perennials in a sunny spot in June, give them a drink to help them settle in, and then sit back and watch them bloom. I transplant the black-eyed Susans in my garden all the time. They never mind being moved, even when I do it during a heatwave in the middle of summer. As long as you give them some water after transplanting, that’s all they need.

Get a 3-pack of beautiful black-eyed Susans from Monrovia at Lowe's.

2. Sedum

Sedum is another one of those tough perennials that thrive on neglect. This heat and drought-tolerant succulent comes in many forms, from the common 'Autumn Joy' that is taller and puts out pink blooms in late summer to the creeping lime green 'Angelina' ground cover that’s perfect for a rock garden.

I’ve planted sedum in June and even later during the dog days of summer and it has never had a problem settling into its new home. This succulent perennial plant seems to never wilt and once you plant it in the ground, it establishes itself quickly.

You can get Autumn Joy and Angelina sedum from Fast Growing Trees.

3. Lavender

Lavender looks so delicate and beautiful – and its fragrance is amazing – but it’s actually a really tough, heat-tolerant perennial. Plant it in full sun in a location with well-draining soil. That’s about all this fragrant herb needs to survive.

I planted a small lavender seedling in June a couple years ago, watered it a couple times, and then left town for the rest of the summer. It is now thriving and putting out tons of beautiful blooms. This is truly one of the best low-maintenance herbs to add to your perennial flower garden.

Explore different types of lavender for your landscape from Garden Goods Direct.

4. Yarrow

Yarrow is one of those underrated plants that not many gardeners think of growing, until you see its beautiful, bright blooms in someone else’s landscape. This heat and drought-tolerant perennial is similar to lavender in its needs. Give it full sun, well-draining soil, and that’s about it.

I treat the yarrow in my garden similar to my lavender. I planted it a couple years ago and then totally ignored it. Yet, now it’s thriving and filling in the bare spots in my sunny perennial border garden well.

Get a pretty pink 'Firefly Fuchsia' yarrow from Proven Winners at the Home Depot.

5. Daylily

Daylilies are very easy to care for and, depending on the type you grow, they can actually become a nuisance to get rid of. The common orange "ditch lily," as they’re often called, is one of my worst garden enemies because they take over and choke out every other perennial I plant near them. But cultivated varieties, like the highly popular 'Stella d'Oro' daylily, stay in their lane and add brilliantly colorful to perennial beds.

Daylilies have fleshy tuberous roots that divide and transplant well, even in the heat of summer. Use a sharp shovel to divide existing daylilies in your garden to transplant them elsewhere and let them fill in an empty corner. Or you can explore other beautiful daylilies for sale from the Home Depot.

6. Blanket Flower

Blanket flower is a heat-tolerant native flower that returns year after year in a variety of warm hues of red, orange, and yellow. This wildflower is found in meadows and prairies across the U.S. and has become increasingly popular in perennial garden beds for its easy care and tolerance of a variety of growing conditions.

You can plant a blanket flower in June and get blooms by the end of summer or fall. This is a somewhat short-lived perennial plant, but it readily self-seeds. New plants will emerge in your garden without you lifting a finger, similar to a black-eyed Susan.

Get a 3-pack of blanket flowers from Monrovia at Lowe's.

June is when the yard suddenly fills with the joyful, chaotic sound of baby birds; half-feathered, clumsy, and utterly clueless, hopping along garden gates and begging relentlessly from worn-out parents. These first weeks out of the nest can be the most dangerous they’ll face. And here’s the secret that catches many backyard birders off guard: what to feed a fledgling bird almost never means seed mixes.

During early summer, nearly every songbird species rears its young on live insects, favoring protein-rich caterpillars above all. A single pair of Carolina chickadees might need between 6,000 and 9,000 caterpillars to fledge one brood. That’s a staggering number of bugs, and traditional feeders barely scratch the surface of a growing fledgling's daily caloric demands. So what to feed a fledgling bird comes down to smart growing strategies. While supplemental feeding always has its place, essential bird food options are often tied directly to your garden habitat during summer.

Key flowers and native plants are major sources of nourishment for fledglings. They act as hosts to caterpillars, invite beneficial predatory insects and yield early-summer berries for vulnerable birds. Stack the plantings by height, and you ensure something stays on the menu at every level, from the canopy right down to the leaf litter. Making small, thoughtful planting adjustments is a win-win for hungry young birds as well as your personal tastes. Try these plant combinations, and you’ll be rewarded with a new generation of feathered friends to fill your summer with song.

Plant Combinations for Baby Birds

Think of each of these curated plant combinations as an exquisite, three-course meal for your baby birds and fledglings, meticulously pitched at varying heights to cover different food groups at once. One layer pulls in dynamic insects. Another keeps nectar-seekers happy, while a third holds hard seeds and rich berries for later in summer. Really, knowing what to feed a fledgling comes down to planting the right company rather than topping up a tray all the time.

Pick even one of these planting companion trios this June, and your yard starts doing the work on its own. Of course, these combinations are adaptable, depending on your growing zone and yard size. The core objective is simply to minimize your feathered forager’s energy spend – and once they know that the good stuff is readily available in your yard, you can just sit back and enjoy the show. If you’re in need of a cheep and cheerful way to watch them from indoors, Vulness Compact Bird Watching Binoculars from Amazon lets you enjoy the action from a distance.

June is your prime window to establish these plant trios, allowing their root systems to develop at pace, while foliage flourishes and serves as a hunting ground. No matter your zone or yard size, these low-maintenance knockout natives and high-reward planting combinations create a secure, sustaining and vibrant source of fledgling bird food right outside your window. Birds are creatures of habit, so once you establish a one-stop-shop that offers safety from predators and easy-to-digest food, you’ll see an immediate increase in activity and diversity.

1. Serviceberry, Elderberry & Wild Strawberry

Serviceberry (Amelanchier) goes by the name Juneberry for good reason. It yields masses of succulent fruit earlier than almost any other native woody plant, dropping its bounty in the thick of fledgling season. These sweet purple pomes are highly compelling. American robins and sleek cedar waxwings arrive in droves, and you’ll also see gray catbirds, wood thrushes and Baltimore orioles stripping branches.

At ground level, native wild strawberries (Fragaria virginiana) fruit across the same summer window, providing easy foraging for ground-dwelling fledglings learning the ropes. American elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) runs on a slower clock. Its broad, flat flower heads open through June, pulling in bees and beetles to feed insect-eating birds. The berries mature in late summer, offering a vital lifeline just as many bird species begin rearing a second brood.

Plant them in a sunny to partly shaded location with well-draining, acidic to neutral soil (zones 3-9). Avoid planting elderberries in high-traffic footpaths, as their sprawling nature requires room to stretch. Applying a 2-inch (5cm) layer of organic hardwood mulch in June keeps soil moisture stable and encourages sweet fruit production. You can buy Autumn Brilliant Serviceberries from Fast Growing Trees for an abundant summer crop and refreshing cover, and Proven Winners Black Lace Elderberry from Nature Hills for that high-impact flurry of bugs and berries.

2. Trumpet Vine, Bee Balm & Salvia

A nectar garden often looks like it feeds hummingbirds liquid sugar and nothing else. Adult hummers do run on nectar, and a stand of trumpet vine (Campsis radicans), bee balm (Monarda didyma), and perennial salvia helps them to stay energized, but their nestlings require protein. A mother hauls in thousands of gnats, mosquitoes, and soft-bodied spiders. These flowers concentrate these insects into one zone.

Bee balm pulls double duty: beyond the nectar reserves, its aromatic foliage serves as a vital host plant for several native moth caterpillars. Prioritize a location featuring full, blazing sun and rich, moist soil (zones 4-9). Trumpet vine comes with a warning, though. It climbs hard and spreads harder, and it’ll want a sturdy support plus room to misbehave before it swallows a fence.

For the bee balm and salvia, deadhead the first spent blooms in late June to spark a secondary wave of bug-attracting flowers that will carry your local birds safely through August. You can buy American Beauties’ Jacob Cline Bee Balm from Nature Hills. And you can buy Hirt’s Gardens Trumpet Vine Plants from Walmart, guaranteed to anchor nesting hummingbirds to your yard for the summer.

3. Sunflowers, Cosmos & Zinnias

Most baby birds can’t handle seed, but there’s one cheerful exception, and this trio is it. All summer, sunflowers (Helianthus annuus), cosmos and zinnias hum with pollinators and caterpillars that chew their foliage, an insect buffet for nesting songbirds. Then, as summer matures, comes the seed. American goldfinches are some of the latest seasonal nesters, holding off until midsummer for a reason: they raise their chicks on a protein-rich seed mash harvested from plants like these.

So whatever you do, don’t deadhead or tidy up your spent flower heads as summer begins to wane. Leaving these stalks standing tall transforms a row of sunflowers into a bustling goldfinch nursery come August, while native sparrows, indigo buntings, and house finches will eagerly work the drying seed heads well into fall.

This trio thrives in a sun-baked garden bed with well-draining soil (zones 2-11). June is the perfect time to direct-sow these seeds or plant nursery starts, as the warm soil triggers rapid growth. Select multi-branching sunflower varieties like Autumn Beauty, which produce dozens of seed heads that juvenile finches can easily grip. You can buy popular Sensation Mix Cosmos Seeds from Eden Brothers, and Autumn Beauty Sunflower Seeds from Burpee to cultivate those delectable seedheads.

4. Dogwood, Highbush Blueberry & Native Ferns

Native flowering dogwood (Cornus florida) is one of the better caterpillar producers around. It’s a big host plant for spring azure butterflies and giant silk moths. It’s these soft-bodied larvae that provide easily digestible, nutrient-dense goodness for nestlings.The berries are a fall event, feeding migrating thrushes and bluebirds.

Highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum) contributes its own native caterpillars, alongside early-summer fruits that you and your juvenile birds will compete for. Ferns such as the ostrich fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris) don’t fit the pattern at first glance, but their work happens at ground level. A stand of ferns creates a cool, damp microclimate that sustains spiders, beetles, and cutworms. On bare ground, a couple of bags of LeafGro Leaf Compost from Home Depot jump-start this layer.

This structural trio thrives in partial shade, favoring rich, organic soils (zones 4-8). You can buy Ostrich Ferns from Walmart, so young fledglings can safely practice foraging for beetles and ground spiders. Alongside this, you can buy Blue Jay Highbush Blueberry Plants from Nature Hills for that tasty bug and berry combo.

5. Wild Rose, Blackberry Brambles & Purple Coneflower

Native wild roses (Rosa carolina) and blackberry brambles (rubus) grow into a thorny, tangled thicket, and that’s exactly the point. Almost nothing pushes through. This makes them about the safest nesting cover a clumsy fledgling could hope for. Cardinals settle deep inside, along with catbirds, thrashers and song sparrows. The food side holds up too. June blossoms attract a wealth of native pollinators, while juicy berries provide a continuous sugar rush.

Occupying the sunny perimeter, purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) gracefully bridges the seasonal gaps. Its prominent center cones are landing pads for bumblebees and butterflies in June, eventually drying into seed-stuffed goodies that finches will pick clean by late summer. The thorns are the real gift. They give the smallest birds a fighting chance while feeding on the collective treats.

Plant in an open, sunny border with well-draining soil (zones 3-9). Prune brambles selectively only after fruiting, ensuring you do not disturb any nests. Let it flourish along property lines, creating an invaluable fortress of food. Buy Purple Coneflower Seeds from Eden Brothers for the ultimate native snacking. You can also buy Apache Blackberry Plants from Amazon for a dense, berry-rich summer thicket.

6. Spicebush, Coral Bells & Foamflower

Shade doesn’t have to be a dead zone for birds. The workhorse is native spicebush (Lindera benzoin), the main host for the spicebush swallowtail and other native moths. Its aromatic foliage will attract caterpillars through the season, and the glossy red berries in late summer are a gorgeous draw for thrushes, vireos and catbirds.

Around it, coral bells (heuchera) send up airy spikes that shade-dwelling hummers work for nectar hits. Meanwhile, foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia) carpets the ground, its frothy blooms opening early to sustain vital pollinators. Using a north-facing wall, a shadowed side-yard alley, or a dense tree canopy can end up doing just as much for your local birds as any sunny flower bed.

This trio requires moist, rich soil in partial shade (zones 4-9). Apply a generous layer of decomposed leaf mold or shredded bark mulch around the spicebush. You can buy a phenomenal range of Coral Bells from Nature Hills to bring vital nectar and small insects to shaded spaces. Plus, you can buy a Greenwood Nursery Spicebush from Amazon, the definitive shade-loving host plant for swallowtail caterpillars.

Make a Start This Season

Nurturing a thriving sanctuary for summer fledglings does not require a big overhaul. One serviceberry by the patio, a patch of bee balm along a fence or a few ferns tucked into a shady corner will help both birds raising families and the fledglings making their first forays into foraging. Buy The Harvest Company’s Compressed Coir Bricks from Lowe’s for a compressed soil amendment to retain moisture around your baby bird-friendly plants. Mother nature handles the tricky timings; your primary task is to get these living resources into the soil.

Along with food, give a little thought to water, shelter, and safety. Because baby birds cannot fly well, they can’t easily reach elevated bird baths, leaving them vulnerable to ground predators. Add an extra water dish that you can keep near ground level. Make this wide and shallow, filling it no deeper than 1-1.5 inches (2.5-4cm) so fledglings can drink and bathe safely. You can buy the lovely Bakayoyo Ceramic Shallow Ground Bird Bath from Amazon. Add a flat stone to the base so they don't slip.

You can give this bathing spot extra curiosity and fascination for young birds with a water agitator, wiggler, or solar pump. You can buy the Mademax Solar Bird Bath Pump from Amazon to add instant movement and enjoyment to your bird bath. The continuous ripples catch the light and emit a unique sound signature, while also preventing mosquitoes from laying eggs – adding to the allure and security of your bird-friendly yard.

Other Essentials for Baby Birds

Crafting a vibrant, safe haven for young birdies comes down to a thoughtful blend of natural goodies and some well-selected supporting treats. Once you’ve got your plants and flowers off and running, these little extras will ensure that your yard is optimized for a broad range of young feathered guests, including juvenile hummers – and best of all, they are great for budget-friendly yards. Grab this trio of baby bird extras to keep your backyard busy and thriving with birdsong all summer long.

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

All too often, you pay a pretty penny for a flowering plant to install in the garden, enjoy it for the season, then face an empty flower bed the next spring. Every gardener’s dream is to plant some gorgeous blooms and watch them, year after year, reappear and multiply to fill their flower bed.

Perennials that multiply with ease are among the very best choices for your garden. These are neither rare nor exotic, just appealing flowering plants that reappear every year bigger and better than the year before. There are dozens of these “magic” plants with different blossom shapes and colors.

Here is a short list of the best flowers you only need to plant once and they’ll multiply into dozens more for tons of free blooms every year.

Flowers You Only Need to Plant Once

Once you invite plants into your flower garden that not only reappear, year after year, but multiply every year, you’ll wonder why you didn’t do this earlier. Here are the top varieties to try.

1. Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.)

Daylilies are a beginning gardener’s best choice for a first plant. They delight with vibrant blooms that appear year after year, yet they top the list of the most adaptable plants on the planet.

Poor soil? They don’t care. Lots of sun or minimal sun – that’s fine. Even if the winters are harsh or the summers get little rain, through it all, these perennials grow cheerfully, filling your bed with colorful trumpet-shaped flowers in USDA zones 3-9.

But that’s not all. Thanks to their tuberous roots, daylilies multiply rapidly and form large clumps over time. Call it an effortless expansion. They just seem to spread joyfully, producing more and more blooms with no fuss or muss.

Each blossom lasts for one day only, but not to worry. Daylilies are like bud factories, popping out bloom after bloom for your visual pleasure – flowers that attract pollinators to your garden. They are perfect for beginner or overworked gardeners because Mother Nature does the bulk of the work.

Explore dozens of gorgeous daylilies in different colors from the Home Depot.

2. Cranesbill Geranium (Geranium spp.)

Now don’t just run to the garden store and ask for geraniums, if you’re looking for perennials that multiply on their own. Cranesbill geraniums, aka hardy geraniums, are perennials that spread just for the fun of it.

Their clusters of delicate flowers do some reseeding each year, but the quick spread is from their rhizomes. Cranesbill geraniums form wide mounds that are perfect for borders and low-maintenance beds.

Compact and beautifully blooming, cranesbill geraniums fill your beds with flowers in shades of pink and purple starting in spring in USDA hardiness zones 3-9. Give them a full sun or partial shade location – they aren’t picky about light – and regular garden soil suits them just fine. This herbaceous perennial grows in the wild in Europe and attracts butterflies with its vivid flowers.

Shop gorgeous cranesbill geranium plants online from Wayside Gardens.

3. Catmint (Nepeta spp.)

Cats are always right (if you doubt this, just ask any cat!) and most kitties sing the praises of catmint. Okay, they like catnip better, but catmint comes in a close second.

Catnip contains a chemical compound called nepetalactone that drives cats wild. Catmint also contains nepetalactone, just less of it. However, catmint is more attractive – with lavender blue flowers – and multiplies quickly to fill your flower bed.

Catmint is yet another perennial that spreads through self-seeding and underground stems. It flowers best in sunny, well-draining areas, and its blooms hang on for weeks on end. They have a soft and lovely fragrance that attracts passing humans as well as bees. Plant catmint in USDA hardiness zones 3-9.

Buy catmint plants online from Garden Goods Direct.

4. Black-Eyed Susans (Rudbeckia spp.)

Are black-eyed Susans the most recognizable garden flower? The daisy-like yellow petals of this summertime staple radiate out from their dark centers. Big and bold, black-eyes Susans are also reliable bloomers.

These perennials spread through both rhizomes and prolific self-seeding, which guarantees a vibrant display season after season. They create naturalized drifts that bloom from midsummer to frost in USDA zones 3-9.

Are these classic garden plants picky? Not one bit. Black-eyed Susans accept average soil conditions, are famously drought-tolerant and deer resistant, making them ideal for wildflower meadows or cottage gardens. Their bright and happy flowers attract butterflies and bees, adding to the joy of the garden. And when the flowers are done, birds enjoy their seeds.

Get a 3-pack of Monrovia black-eyed Susans from Lowe's to fill in your garden fast.

5. Bee Balm (Monarda spp.)

Bee balm’s tubular flowers are fragrant and showy, a perfect place for a hungry hummingbird to get a bit of nectar. In fact, bee balm, with its aromatic foliage and red, purple or pink blossoms, is notorious as a magnet for pollinators. This perennial also adds a pop of color to the landscape with its vibrant blooms. It is perfect for sunny borders or meadow gardens in USDA hardiness zones 3-11.

Plant bee balm in a sunny site with moist soil. Once the perennial is established, bee balm spreads every way but Sunday via underground runners as well as self-seeding. You don’t have to do anything to help it make its way into a colony – just appreciate the bright flowers and the minty fragrance of the leaves when crushed.

Just in case you’re hungry, you ought to know that this plant is a member of the mint family, so the entire plant is edible and often used for Oswego tea.

Shop beautiful bee balm plants from Garden Goods Direct.

Plants that self seed are a gardener’s dream… or nightmare. Plants you want to self-seed will save you time and money, but those you do not want to reseed may cost you time and money to remove them. Knowing which plants tend to reseed easily and whether they are garden thugs will help you plan for your garden.

There are many ornamental plants, herbs, and even vegetables that reseed. Some need a favorable environment to reseed, such as well-drained, fertile soil, and mild winters. Others seem to self-seed where they drop, regardless of the conditions. Birds and wind, too, help disperse the seeds, so you may find plants all over the place.

If you want to manage self-seeders, you can harvest the seeds yourself before they drop (our editors love the Felco 2 pruning shears from Amazon for deadheading and pruning). Watch for the ripening seeds in late summer or fall and collect them when they mature, usually when they turn dark brown. Plant them where you want them or hold them over till spring.

8 Great Self-Seeding Plants for Your Garden

Many vegetables, such as tomatoes and squash, may return the next year, although hybrid plants won’t be the same as the parent. Herbs, such as parsley, dill, fennel, chamomile, and cilantro drop seeds that easily grow. Self-seeding plants may take a while to appear in gardens. Many will not germinate and grow until the soil heats up.

Here are the best self-seeding plants to add to your garden.

Annuals

1. Borage

Borage (Borago officinalis) is an all-purpose herb with superstar qualities. It isn’t bothered by pests and disease, it is a great companion plant for veggies, it attracts pollinators, blooms all summer, and is edible! It self seeds readily, but if it gets out of hand, the seedlings pull up easily and can be composted. Seeds develop when the flower petals drop off.

2. Larkspur

Larkspur (Consolida ajacis) is one of those plants that once you grow it, you will welcome its tall pink, blue, white, or purple flower spikes every summer. Rich, well drained soil in full sun is its preferred environment to return. The slender seed pods rattle when the seeds are dry if you brush against them. Pull the stems up, crush the seedpods open and shake them over your garden.

3. Mexican Sunflower

Mexican sunflower (Tithonia rotundifolia) is prized for its bright orange, daisy-like flowers on tall, branching stems. Tithonia is a favorite of hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees, and once discovered by hummers, they will guard it as their own. If some of the flowers are left to go to seed, they will form after the petals drop. Squirrels and birds may eat the seeds, so leave plenty to reseed, or collect them from the seed head. It may not show up till mid-summer, so do not give up.

Biennial/Perennial

4. California Poppy

California poppy (Eschscholzia californica) feels right at home in loamy, well-drained soil. It is a short-lived perennial with ferny foliage and orange, cup-shaped flowers that work well in the front of the border or in rock gardens. After flowering, elongated seed pods form. Leave them on the plant till the seeds turn dark brown. When ripe, the seed pod splits, ejecting the seeds from the plant.

5. Parsley

Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) is a biennial herb grown for its nutrient-rich, flavorful leaves that look attractive tucked in among other plants. Seeds are formed the second year after flowering. If left undisturbed, seeds mature and drop. Parsley is a host plant for the Eastern Black Swallowtail butterfly so you may see its caterpillars munching on the plant. Be sure to grow extra!

6. Purple Coneflower

Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) is another superstar plant with medicinal qualities; a pollinator favorite; lovely, daisy-like dark-pink flowers, and food for birds. After flowering, seeds form in the center cone. Finches relish the seeds and may beat you to them. The plant readily self seeds so be prepared. The clump also expands.

7. Sea Holly

Sea holly (Eryngium planum) is a self-seeding perennial plant with a rigid stem structure and unusual, spiky, blue flower heads. It blooms all summer, and butterflies frequent the unique flowers. It will grow in poor, dry soil and works well in a cottage or rock garden or in containers. You can deadhead the faded blooms, but leave some alone to go to seed.

8. Tall Verbena

Tall verbena (Verbena bonariensis) is a tender perennial that is hardy in USDA zones 7-11. It readily self seeds in colder climates. Pollinators love the tiny purple flowers borne on tall, stiff stems. Tall verbena could be moved below to the thug list because it is on the invasive plant list in Georgia and Oregon.

Plants You Should NOT Leave to Self-Seed

Some plants are best deadheaded to prevent reseeding, or if that is too time consuming, just avoid the plants altogether. While the plants may be endearing in small amounts, the adage “too much of a good thing” applies here. The plants may be invasive and listed on state or national do-not-plant lists. They may take over your yard, choke out nearby plants, or displace native flora.

Here are a few self-seeding garden plants on the “Be sure to deadhead list.”

1. Bachelor Buttons

Bachelor Buttons (Centaurea cyanus) is an easy-to-grow, cool-season annual with striking blue flowers. It attracts butterflies and works well in an area for naturalizing or in a container to help control the reseeding. It is listed on the Washington state Education List of Obnoxious Weeds.

2. Columbine

Columbine (Aquilegia spp.) is a popular spring flowering perennial but it produces a voluminous amount of seed that will pop up as new plants everywhere in succeeding years. It is a worthwhile plant to have and is an early pollinator plant, but make sure to deadhead the seedpods that form if you don’t want to spend a lot of time removing plants.

3. Forget-Me-Nots

Forget-Me-Nots (Myosotis spp.) produce enchanting blue flower bouquets, but its rampant reseeding will have you pulling out your hair as well as blue flower bouquets. There are several varieties and some are more behaved than others, but they reproduce by seeds as well as underground rhizomes. The woodland species, M. sylvatica, is considered an aggressive weed.

4. Obedient Plant

Obedient Plant (Physostegia virginiana) is not as obedient as the name implies. It reproduces by stolons as well as seed so you get a double whammy. It is a U.S. native that is characterized as aggressive. Fortunately, it pulls up easily when you need to lessen the load.

5. Sweet Autumn Clematis

Sweet Autumn Clematis (Clematis terniflora) is a true garden thug that should not be planted. In late summer to fall, it produces a copious amount of seeds from fluffy seedpods that start new plants all over the yard - in the lawn, climbing up trees and shrubs, and covering everything it touches. If you grow it, be sure to cut it back in the fall before it goes to seed.

Mid to late June, depending on where you live and garden, is a bittersweet time for peonies. The gorgeous, cloud-like blooms are fading, and the spectacular show is just about over until next year. Peonies flower brilliantly, but the show is short-lived.

June peony care after the flowers have faded may be bittersweet for gardeners, but it’s so important. The care you give your plants now will ensure they gather enough energy and stay healthy enough for an even bigger and better show next year.

These are essential June tasks you need to do to your peonies after flowering to set them up for big blooms again next year.

1. Deadhead Spent Blooms

There are a few good reasons to snip off those faded flowers by the end of June. The most obvious is that your plants and beds will look tidier when you deadhead peonies, but there’s more. By leaving large, decaying flowers on your plants, you put them at greater risk of developing and spreading fungal diseases.

The final reason for deadheading peonies now is to encourage the plants to put more energy into roots and foliage rather than seeds. This ensures they’ll be healthier, bigger, and stronger for next year’s bloom period.

To deadhead plants, start with a sharp pair of shears or these handy thumb knives from Amazon. Disinfect the blades with rubbing alcohol or disinfecting wipes. Snip just under the flower head and above the first set of healthy leaves.

2. Leave the Leaves

This is an anti-task for June. It can be tempting to prune peonies once the flower show is over, but don’t do it now. The plants use leaves all summer to gather energy through photosynthesis. That energy gets stored in the roots and will be used next season to produce more blooms.

Leaving foliage in place for the summer is crucial for ensuring your plants produce abundant, healthy flowers next year. Wait until the leaves naturally turn yellow and brown, typically in late fall or early winter, before cutting all the stems back to a few inches above the ground.

3. Clean Up & Add Mulch

Peonies are very susceptible to fungal diseases like powdery mildew, which can be transmitted through debris left on the ground. Clean up petals and any dropped leaves from the bases of your plants to reduce the spread of common peony diseases.

As you rake up and dispose of dead plant debris, you might notice that the mulch around your peonies is getting thin. Add more mulch to help keep the soil cool as summer heat sets in. This will also help retain moisture in the soil for the roots that need it as they store energy for next year.

Aim for 2 to 3 inches (5-7.5 cm) of an organic mulch, like this one from Amazon. However, avoid covering the crown of the plant or letting the mulch touch the stems, which can lead to disease.

4. Water, If Weather Is Dry

Summer heat and drought can be damaging to plants, especially for young or recently transplanted peonies. Established peonies will survive dry spells, but for young and old alike, supplemental water supports healthy roots and better growth next year.

Consistency is key when watering peonies. They grow best and develop good root systems when the soil is moist, but not soggy. Your bushes need about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water per week. If it hasn't rained, give them a deep soaking once a week.

Avoid overhead watering as getting leaves wet can contribute to disease. Instead, set up a drip irrigation kit, like this one from the Home Depot that Content Editor Laura uses for her peonies and other perennials, or aim a hose at the base of your plants.

5. Feed as Needed

Peonies are not heavy feeders, but they can benefit from light fertilization at this time of year. A balanced, light application of nutrients now supports the root growth and energy storage your peonies experience during the summer.

A balanced fertilizer, like this organic 10-10-10 plant food from Espoma, is best. Avoid any products higher in nitrogen as this will promote more leaf than flower growth. A slow-release perennial fertilizer is also a good choice.

Fertilize peonies according to the instructions on the product label and water thoroughly after applying to avoid fertilizer burn.

6. Check for Pests & Diseases

June is a great time to check for any signs of pest infestation or disease on your peonies. The foliage should be lush and healthy now. Finding early symptoms now will help you manage issues before they get out of control.

Peonies have a tendency to develop fungal diseases. Look for signs of botrytis blight or gray mold, which include wilting young growth, blackened flower buds, and fuzzy gray mold on leaves and stems.

Powdery mildew looks like a white powder on leaves. Both diseases thrive in warm, humid weather. Prune off and dispose of infected leaves and stems. You can also use a fungicide spray, like this copper fungicide from Bonide, for more severe cases of powdery mildew and botrytis blight.

Ants are common on peonies, and not harmful, so don’t mind them. Look instead for thrips, aphids, and spider mites. Blast pests off with water or use neem oil or insecticidal soap, both of which are available on Amazon, for more difficult infestations.

The good news is that, despite this list of tasks, caring for peonies in the summer is mostly hands-off. With just a little support, you can stand back and let them do their thing, which is gathering and storing energy for another great floral show next year.

Deadheading is one of those habits that becomes automatic after a while. You spot a spent, browning bloom, clip it back to a leaf node, and move on, confident that another flush of fresh flowers will rise to take its place. For most of the season, this instinct is the right one. It keeps beds tidy, prevents disease, and encourages your plants to put their energy into continuous color. By June, though, a few flowers are better off left alone. Let these iconic cottage garden favorites set seed, and they hand you next year’s plants at zero cost, scattered where they fall.

For these flowers, the purpose is ultimately to produce seed to ensure the survival of their lineage. The moment you don’t deadhead flowers, these plants shift the focus from flower production to seed development. By letting nature take the wheel in June, these plants will drop a bounty of ripe, resilient seeds right into your beds. The resulting offspring will emerge completely free of charge, filling open gaps with an organic, natural flow that no human designer could ever replicate.

Leaving these key ornamentals to seed is a satisfying way to save some dough (or keep the cash for other flowering fancies). Just let these canny self-sowers set about creating a wave of dependable future color. These plants thrive on minimal fuss, take root, and burst into life in effortless style, and often in spots you’d never have thought to plant them. So make sure you allow these iconic border beauties to do their thing.

Leave These Flowers to Seed in June

None of these cottage garden flowers will need babying to self-sow. The whole technique is really about restraint. Elsewhere in your yard, there are of course some flowers you do need to keep deadheading in June to encourage more flowers. But for the flowers in this roundup, just let the final flush of flowers dry out right on the stem until the seed pods swell, ripen, and naturally split open.

While most are adaptable across USDA hardiness zones 3-11, their ultimate self-sowing success relies on the conditions of the soil beneath them. Seeds that drop onto hard, compacted earth or choked-out weed beds will struggle to establish. To set the stage for success, ensure your borders feature loose, well-draining soil and plenty of bright sunlight, which acts as the ultimate incubator for fallen seeds.

Before you let your plants go wild, a tiny bit of ground-level preparation ensures these future seedlings can anchor in well. Keep the planting area clean of aggressive weeds, and check your soil health to maximize germination rates. Use a soil meter or testing kit such as the Luster Leaf Rapitest Soil Meter from Amazon to determine moisture levels and make sure soil pH is balanced for upcoming generations.

If your soil feels tired or heavy from the season's heaviest feeders, add a light layer of mulch, such as Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch from Amazon. Scatter this over the topsoil to help lock in vital moisture. This will help to create the perfect environment for rapid germination once seed pods burst, setting the scene for beautiful future blooms. So let’s meet the cottage garden beauties where it’s absolutely for the best if you don’t deadhead the flowers!

1. Forget-Me-Not

Here’s the honest truth: forget-me-nots (Myosotis sylvatica) self-sow so willingly that your main task as a gardener is often slowing them down. These charming biennials produce cloud-like drifts of sky-blue flowers through spring, but by June, the show is beginning to fade. As the petals drop, they leave tiny, burred seed pods that catch on clothing and hitch a ride on whatever brushes past, which is how they wind up several beds over from where they were planted. Leaving the fading plants standing in June all but guarantees a carpet of seedlings by the fall. They are cold-hardy, thriving across USDA zones 3-9, and happy in partial shade.

To get the best out of forget-me-nots, try adding other partial shade companions like bleeding hearts or hostas. You can buy White Feather Hosta Bare Roots from Eden Brothers. While forget-me-nots aren't too picky about soil, they loathe bone-dry, compacted clay. Keep the area moist but well-drained, and skip the heavy fertilizers. You can trim the ugliest leaves with precision snips like the Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon to keep plants tidy while the seed pods finish ripening.

2. Calendula

Few annuals throw their seeds around with as much joyful abandon as the cheerful pot marigold or calendula (C. officinalis). If you leave a healthy plant unpicked, it will rapidly develop crescent-shaped seed heads. These develop in a few weeks and plop into the soil around the parent plant. Depending on how mild your climate is, these seeds either germinate instantly for a bonus flush of fall color, or sit tight through winter to flower in spring. Because calendula blooms continuously from late spring to first frost, you lose nothing by sacrificing a few spent June flowers to seed while the rest of the plant carries on flowering.

Calendula thrives in full sun to partial shade in zones 2-11, preferring a lean, well-draining soil. Try growing them alongside purple herbs like Survival Garden Seeds Opal Basil Seeds from Amazon for a rich contrast that also helps to repel pests. While these rugged annuals are tough, they can occasionally succumb to powdery mildew if humidity spikes in summer. To keep your seed-producing plants in peak condition, apply a morning spray of Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide from Walmart to protect the foliage and ensure the ripening seed heads remain healthy and viable.

3. Columbine

Columbine (Aquilegia spp.) is a perennial, so the original parent plant will return next spring. However, if you’re interested in spreading the love around, skipping the scissors can turn one clump into a sweeping drift. By early summer, flowers give way to crown-shaped capsules. As these pods dry, they split open like tiny salt shakers, scattering shiny seeds across garden beds. Varieties cross-pollinate with ease, so if you grow multiple colors and let them go to seed, the next generation will yield surprise color combinations and unique shapes.

These resilient perennials flourish in zones 3-9, and love dappled light, rich soil, and well-drained borders. Add some fine-textured plants like meadow rue or ornamental grasses like 'Karl Foerster' Feather Reed Grass from Nature Hills. While columbine is highly self-sufficient, leaf miners can sometimes tunnel through foliage in June. Instead of panic-cutting the plant back and losing your seed, simply pick off the damaged lower leaves and give the root zone a drink mixed with Miracle-Gro Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food from Lowe’s to help the plant power through.

4. California Poppy

Poor soil is where California poppy (Eschscholzia californica) does its best work, which makes it an odd thing to chase around with scissors. Left alone, it forms slim seed capsules that dry, twist and fling their seed a surprising distance, so next year’s plants often turn up a couple of feet (60cm) from the parent. Grown from seed this way, seedlings are highly resilient. They develop drought-busting taproots that make them tough and heat-tolerant, as well as prolific and reassuringly low maintenance.

California poppies require full sun and sharp drainage in zones 3-10. They look lovely with native desert beauties or Mediterranean staples like lavender. You can pick up Southern Living Phenomenal Lavender Plants from Fast Growing Trees. Just don’t let them sit in heavy, waterlogged clay soil, which rots their roots. If your soil is heavy, add a scoop of Hoffman Horticultural Sand from Amazon into the surrounding topsoil to give seeds the fast-draining base they need to sprout.

5. Love-in-a-Mist

The spectacular seed pods are half the reason to grow love-in-a-mist (Nigella damascena). Once the whimsical, feathery blue, pink, or white blooms drop their petals in June, the center of each flower swells into a balloon-shaped papery capsule adorned with deep maroon stripes. When these capsules fully ripen, they develop small vents at the top, allowing the black seeds to spill out and scatter into the soil. Nigella hates being transplanted, so allowing the plant to self-sow naturally results in healthier, happier, more productive specimens.

This old-fashioned favorite thrives in full sun or partial shade in zones 2-11, adapting to almost any soil type, as long as it doesn't hold standing water. They look right at home alongside cottage classics like larkspur or fluffy 'Zinderella Lilac' Zinnia Seeds from Eden Brothers, weaving open gaps together with dreamy, fine-textured foliage. To support parent plants through the reproductive phase, add a light sprinkle of Dr Earth Premium Gold All Purpose Fertilizer from Lowe’s around the base to deliver a gentle, organic nutrient release.

Shop Cottage Garden Classics

Hopefully you’ve set up next year’s flower show in style, but if you’re keen to make a headstart on some fresh cottage garden color, this trio is the ultimate shortcut to a seamless high-impact landscape. These hardy cottage champions settle in with lightning speed, requiring minimal fuss while they establish robust root systems. Introduce this vibrant flowering trio to your yard for even more dazzling blooms.

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

The spring show is long gone, yet the summer perennials don’t seem to have caught up yet. Know the feeling? That pause is the June gap, and this awkward transition can feel like the most color-short stretch in the gardening year. The June gap is a real thing: that deflating stretch between the last of the spring bulbs and the moment when summer perennials and annuals finally hit their stride.

Luckily, fast-growing annuals exist to fill it. You don’t have to accept the June gap as a fixed feature of the year, because a handful of fast-growing flowers can be sown or planted now. These aren’t slow-burning perennials waiting for a second season. These flower types are chosen for one quality above all others: speed. These quick-to-bloom ornamentals can be in full flower within 6-10 weeks.

By leaning into these quick-blooming plants to fill the June gap, you can turn your yard around in no time. These nifty bloomers need very little care and guarantee a visual treat that lasts until fall. So don't let the midsummer slump get you down. Plant these fast-growing flowers in that garden June gap and keep your borders bursting with color until autumn.

Fast Flowers to Fill the June Gap

The June gap represents a natural dip in the blooming cycle and happens in many yards in different regions and garden sizes. But it is easily conquered with a quick appraisal of your yard’s layout. Sunny, wide-open spaces are ideal for heat-loving annuals, but a few resilient selections can handle partial shade to brighten up dark corners. If you want to fill a garden in June, most of these bloomers are adaptable across USDA hardiness zones 3-11, but longevity and vibrancy will depend on light.

To ensure these floral rescue workers can take care of themselves, a little ground-level preparation goes a long way. You want a loose, welcoming soil where roots can anchor instantly. Before planting, eliminate weeds and check soil health. Use a soil meter or kit like the Luster Leaf Rapitest Soil Test Kit from Amazon to ensure soil pH is balanced and the texture is well draining. Where your soil feels tired, add a little aged compost. Where it’s claggy, add a little perlite or coarse sand.

Once your soil is primed, you can drop in your fast-trackers with confidence. In the first few weeks, a regular, deep soaking is the only real deal-breaker required to help them settle into their new homes. Once they establish a resilient, deep root system, they’ll happily rely on natural rainfall and their own grit to stay hydrated. By the time midsummer hits, you can sit back and enjoy the show, leaving your gap fillers to erupt into a riot of color while you reclaim your summer. Let’s meet the heroes!

1. Nasturtium

Nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus) are amongst the fastest of all fast-gap fillers if you are after effortless color. Direct-sown seeds germinate with speed (often within 5-7 days) and transition into bloom inside 6-8 weeks. Trailing types move across bare ground quickly and look less accidental than they sound by mid-July, tumbling beautifully over raised beds and containers. Sow alongside borage or climbing beans in sunny beds, or as a protective groundcover around the base of taller shrubs. They thrive in USDA zones 2-11, requiring only a sunny location and well-draining soil.

One thing worth knowing going in: withhold the heavy fertilizers. Rich soil encourages these plants to produce an abundance of lush, green leaves, whereas lean conditions push them to produce non-stop flowers. For a gorgeous heirloom look, sow 'Vesuvius' Nasturtium Seeds from Eden Brothers, which offers striking dark foliage and salmon pink blooms. They flower vigorously, so a quick snip with scissors or pruners, like Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon, keeps them tidy and encourages more edible blossoms through summer into fall.

2. Zinnia

While massive exhibition zinnias (Z. elegans) require a longer time frame, compact and dwarf selections are designed for rapid deployment. These sun-worshipers are among the most heat-tolerant, drought-resilient summer annuals available, exploding into a dazzling kaleidoscope of color 8 weeks after sowing. Thriving beautifully in full sun in zones 2-11, they work brilliantly in mid-border pockets or massed together in large patio planters. They love fertile but sharp-draining soil, demanding very little attention once their roots take hold in warm summer earth.

Keep these beauties well-spaced to ensure good air circulation and ward off powdery mildew in humid summer stretches. To ensure a continuing supply of fresh buds, give them a nourishing fortnightly hit of a potash feed such as TPS Nutrients Potash Fertilizer from Amazon. This influx of nutrients will fuel non-stop color and flower density until first frost. To achieve a sophisticated cottage-garden aesthetic, try Zinnia 'Zinderella Lilac' Seeds from Eden Brothers, which produce uniquely textured double blooms in a dreamy violet hue.

3. Cosmos

Cosmos (C. bipinnatus) grows super-fast, and can rocket up to 4 feet tall (1.2m) in a matter of two months. The feathery foliage expands right away, filling awkward gaps in the backs of borders before the daisy-like flowers arrive to create visual dynamics well into autumn. Performing beautifully in zones 2-11, cosmos just needs 6 hours of sun to prevent the tall stems from becoming floppy. They are fantastic team players when interplanted with ornamental grasses or used to soften a bare fence or trellis.

The secret is to keep the soil lean. Over-feeding creates weak stems with zero flowers. Because they natively prefer a light, sandy root environment, add some coarse sand, like Hoffman Horticultural Sand from Amazon, into heavy clay soils before sowing. This ensures rapid drainage, allowing the cosmos to establish a deep root system that pumps out white, pink, and carmine blooms well into autumn. You can buy Cosmos 'Sensation Mix' Seeds from Burpee for a jamboree of pink.

4. Sweet Alyssum

Ground-level vacancies are where the June gap is most obvious. Sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima) is the fastest way to carpet those gaps comprehensively. Zipping from seed to flower in just 6 weeks, this resilient annual spreads up to a foot (30cm) wide, knitting together neighboring plants with generous, fluffy folds of honey-scented blossoms. It is one of the few gap-fillers that tolerates light afternoon shade, making it invaluable for tricky spots beneath leggy roses or around the base of container trees. It flourishes in zones 5-11 and is a magnet for pollinators.

You can drop in pre-started plug plants, or treat yourself to a sweet alyssum combo with purple ‘Royal Carpet’ and white ‘Carpet of Snow’ Sweet Alyssum Seeds from Amazon. Alyssum requires very little maintenance, but it can look tired or scorched during peak heatwaves. If performance stalls, take it back to half its height and give it a light watering. It should bounce back in no time, blanketing your paths with fresh, fragrant color within days. Once plants are established, add a little sprinkling of mulch such as Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch from Amazon.

5. French Marigold

French marigolds (Tagetes patula) are as low-risk as you can get for quick transformations. Available as ready-to-go plug plants at most garden centers, they can be dropped into empty spaces to eliminate the June gap in an afternoon. These tough-as-nails annuals thrive in full sun across zones 2-11, adapting to most soils as long as they aren’t waterlogged. Beyond their bursts of gold, copper, and bronze, they emit a distinct fragrance that deters destructive root-knot nematodes, making them exceptional bodyguard companions for vegetable patches or rose beds.

For a dramatic, eye-catching color statement, look for the striking Marigold 'Strawberry Blonde' from Burpee, a gorgeous variety that shifts from deep mahogany to pastel pink, rose and yellow as the flowers age. While tagetes are famous for their rugged self-sufficiency and run to first frost with little intervention, you can mix a handful of Dr Earth Premium Gold All Purpose Fertilizer from Amazon into the soil at planting time to help establish roots rapidly and unleash their full color potential.

6. Calendula (Pot Marigold)

Also known as pot marigold, calendula (C. officinalis) is ideal for the cooler shoulders of the summer season, making it a brilliant double-duty gap filler. It jumps into action to conquer the early summer slump, and comes back into its own in September once the heat drops off again. Sown now, it blooms in 7-8 weeks across zones 2-11. It prefers a bright, sunny position, and flourishes in patio containers, cottage borders or raised beds with herbs, especially with a sprinkle of Miracle-Gro Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food Granules from Lowe’s.

To maintain these sunny warm yellow and amber blooms through to fall, regular deadheading is recommended. A few swift clips every few days is all it takes. Pick up a packet of Calendula 'Pacific Beauty' Seeds from Eden Brothers for a tumble of burnt orange and vintage yellow notes. These plants love a well-draining home, so ensure the soil remains moist, but never soggy, to enjoy their beautiful edible petals right up until first frost.

7. California Poppy

The California poppy (Eschscholzia californica) is the definition of low maintenance and high impact. Simply scatter the seeds over bare, sun-baked earth, lightly rake them in, and walk away. Thriving in zones 3-10, they prefer poor, sandy, and dry soils where other plants wither. Their finely textured, blue-green foliage provides an elegant, smoky contrast in borders, while the silky, cup-shaped flowers open wide every morning to celebrate the sun.

For a twist to the classic orange satin cup-style, try California Poppy 'Mission Bells' Seeds from Eden Brothers for double and semi-double blooms in shades of cream, gold, and deep rose. These annuals crave sharp, desert-like drainage, so mix a bit of Hoffman Organic Cactus and Succulent Soil Mix from Walmart into the planting site before sowing to provide the lean, ultra-porous start they love. Once established, they will self-seed reliably, ensuring free, spontaneous pops of color year after year.

Shop Stunning Gap Fillers

Say goodbye to midseason bare spots with these high-speed backyard problem solvers. These curated robust varieties help you seamlessly bridge the awkward seasonal transition and set you up beautifully for a summer of color. These high-performance selections anchor rapidly in warm soil and require minimal maintenance, ensuring your yard stays lush and vibrant without zero fuss.

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

I’ve lost count of how many summers I’ve defaulted to petunias. After all, they’re the classic for a reason: instant color, big impact, and that cheerful, slightly over-the-top abundance that makes a container feel like it’s trying a little too hard – in the best way.

Every year, though, it’s the same routine; I buy my petunias, plant them, enjoy them… and then pull them out again when they fade. Which means (because I am very much that kind of gardener) there’s always a moment, usually around late August, when I wonder why I signed up for the same seasonal cycle again.

Which is why I’ve started noticing a quiet shift in the gardening world – one that seems to be steering people away from showy annual displays and towards those plants that don’t just deliver easy color for a few months, but come back stronger each year, too. And right now, there’s one perennial quietly replacing petunias for exactly this reason.

This Perennial Is Quietly Replacing Petunias

I want it on record, before I go any further, that I love petunias as much as the next person (unless that person is my husband, a professional gardener with an avowed hatred for these pretty blooms; they are firmly on his list of plants he will never let me buy).

That being said, anyone who went to this year’s RHS Chelsea Flower Show – aka the global benchmark for garden design trends – you couldn’t miss the fact that there was one plant in particular nudging annuals like petunias out of the spotlight: geums.

Geums, especially in bold orange tones, were absolutely everywhere this year. Popping up in borders, spilling into container schemes, and threading through planting designs with a kind of effortless confidence, they added flashes of heat and brightness, along with something else petunias can’t quite manage: movement and texture, thanks to their airy stems and nodding, almost floating flower heads.

Shop Geums:

Varieties like Totally Tangerine Geum and TEMPO™ Orange Geum were doing a lot of the heavy lifting in these displays, and it’s easy to see why. They’re vibrant without being fussy, and they hold their own in mixed planting without dominating everything around them.

Unlike traditional bedding plants, geums are perennials, meaning they return year after year once established. They’re also impressively adaptable – thriving in USDA Zones 5–10 – and bring an added ecological bonus: they’re pollinator-friendly, attracting butterflies and other beneficial insects throughout their flowering season.

In containers and borders alike, they’re proving themselves as a smarter kind of color investment. Less replanting, more reliability, and far more interest over time? No wonder they are quietly replacing petunias, quite frankly.

If you want that Chelsea Flower Show look, these orange geums pair beautifully with deep purples (think alliums or salvias) for a high-contrast, designer-style palette that really makes the orange tones sing. Or, if you want to push things in a different direction, swap the orange for softer or more unexpected tones. Paired with reds or warmer pinks, the effect is richer and more romantic, so you get less of a high-contrast punch, more of a gloriously cottage garden glow.

Either way, geums are quietly doing something petunias never quite managed: bringing long-lasting color, personality, and movement into the garden without demanding a complete reset every year. And once you’ve seen them in full bloom, it’s hard not to start craving them in your own yard (either in a container or in a bed).

Hey, anything that makes life a little more easy breezy beautiful, right?

As the long-suffering wife of a professional gardener (ever heard of the phrase 'a busman's holiday'? That's my garden in a nutshell), I’ve learned that most gardening advice boils down to one simple principle: work smarter, not harder.

Yes, my husband has spent more than 20 years caring for gardens, and he’s usually the first person to steer people towards reliable, low-maintenance plants. If there’s an easier option that delivers the same result, he’ll almost always recommend it. And, yes, there are certain plants that he will never let me buy, no matter how popular they might be with the baying masses.

Still, there has to be at least one high-maintenance plant that's worth every minute of effort, right? Keen to find out, once and for all, I cornered my better half in the kitchen as he was raiding the cupboards, and demanded to know which diva plant he would wholeheartedly recommend to everyone.

Dear reader, the man didn't even blink.

The High-Maintenance Plant That Professional Gardeners Love

So, which high-maintenance plant did he recommend?

“Wisteria,” he said promptly. (I suppose I should have realised he was a bit more into Bridgerton than I had previously given him credit for; he certainly has a habit of lingering in the doorway whenever I'm watching).

Now, wisteria is not a plant for the faint-hearted gardener. It’s beautiful, yes, but it is absolutely not low effort. In fact, it sits firmly in the category of plants that demand attention, patience, and a willingness to stay on top of things year-round.

In between bites of his cookie, my husband puts it more bluntly. “A neglected wisteria can turn into chaos surprisingly quickly,” he says. “It doesn’t just grow, it takes over. If you’re not prepared to prune it properly, it’s probably not the right plant for you.”

Pruning is really at the heart of wisteria care. It needs to be cut back twice a year – once in summer and again in winter – to keep it flowering well and to stop it becoming a tangled mass of stems and leaves. It also needs strong support, because once it gets going, it becomes surprisingly heavy and woody.

And then there’s patience. Wisteria is famous for taking its time to establish, and it can take several years before it produces its most spectacular flowering displays. This is not an instant-gratification plant.

Despite all of this, though, , wisteria remains one of the most desirable climbing plants in ornamental gardening, usually draped across old stone walls, country houses, and pergolas in every romantic garden photograph you’ve ever saved.

Shop Wisteria:

When it finally comes into its own, it produces cascades of fragrant, pea-like flowers that spill dramatically from its stems. The effect is almost theatrical – soft, abundant, and completely transformative.

“It’s one of those plants that can completely change the feeling of a space,” my husband tells me, half-distracted by the very demanding task of filling his coffee thermos now. “You can take a fairly ordinary structure and, in a few weeks of flowering, it suddenly feels established and almost timeless.”

That sense of maturity is part of the appeal. Wisteria doesn’t just decorate a garden: it gives it history, even when it’s newly planted. It also has that rare ability to stop people in their tracks. When it’s in full bloom, it becomes a focal point in a way few other plants can match.

So, is it worth the effort? The honest answer is that there are pros and cons to growing wisteria in any garden, and it really depends on what you want. If you’re looking for something easy, forgiving, and low maintenance, wisteria probably isn’t it. There are far simpler climbers that will behave themselves without constant attention.

If you’re willing to put in the work, though, there are few plants that offer such a dramatic payoff. When it flowers, all of that color and fragrance that makes all the pruning, tying-in, and waiting feel entirely justified.

Maybe that’s the real reason my husband chose it, actually. He’s a romantic at heart, and wisteria, for all its demands, is unforgettable. Although he has shot himself in the foot a little, as now that I know all of this, you can bet your bottom dollar I will be demanding he plant one at the front of the house in the not-too-distant future...

For the last couple of weeks, my bright pink and deep purple cranesbills have been burgeoning with rich hues and humming with happy bees. It’s been one of the most life-affirming corridors of color I could hope to witness – and I’ve loved seeing those early summer flourishes painting happiness across my modest garden wall. But behind the joy of early perennial flowering is the fear. Just one epic shower is all it takes to crush that ballooning mass of petals and pop the floral bubble in its prime.

The thing is, I’m always thinking about what happens next in my herbaceous perennial borders. Once this early euphoric summer flowering party starts to fade, then what? It can sometimes feel like sumer is ending just as it starts, which seems so darned unfair. If you’ve also been enjoying some early-summer rockstars and they are already starting to look a little floppy and faded, it’s tempting to let nature take its course (albeit with a bit of a sulk). But what if I told you that just beneath those spent flower heads lies the next wave of gorgeous perennial color in the form of secondary buds just waiting for their cue to burst onto the scene?

Too good to be true, right? Not at all, but the ability to encourage second bloom perennials does require a little courage (and some shears). You see, the best thing you can do for these key flowering perennials in June is give them a hearty chop. It might feel like a betrayal, but with the right plants, some timely cuts won't hurt: it re-energizes them, stripping away the old growth so they can channel that raw energy into a fabulous second act. So, if you’re chasing long lasting summer flowers, now’s the time to put your shears to good use. Cut back these iconic perennials this month, and get ready for a gorgeous bonus summer flower show.

6 Perennials that Love a June Chop

Chopping these perennials back after the first flush, you’re basically interrupting that plant’s seed-making process. That process takes up a lot of energy. Without the faff of creating seeds, these plants are free to refocus on their own health and vitality. In the case of these key ornamentals, it means they can generate fresh growth and trigger a lovely bonus round of summer color to fill gaps. Also, by removing the dominant top buds, you’re encouraging lower, dormant side buds to branch out. So as well as prompting extra blooms, you’re creating a bushier habit.

Before you rush out into the borders to target June perennials for summer color, there’s a tiny bit of housekeeping. Make sure you’re using sharp bypass shears, pruning snips or garden scissors. If you’re shopping around for a good set, Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon are great for navigating smaller stems and give precision cuts that won’t damage plants. Never use dull or dirty blades, which can crush stems and introduce fungal spores. And be sure to wipe blades down with rubbing alcohol before use and between plants to keep things sterile.

Chopping back these perennials in June is most successful in USDA hardiness zones 3-8, where summer heat won’t scorch new shoots. In zones 9 and above, ensure plants have some afternoon shade. No matter where you live, check soil conditions and drainage before and after cutting back perennials. A simple soil test can help assess moisture and pH levels. If you don’t have one, the Luster Leaf Luster Leaf Rapitest Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon is easy, battery-free, and gives instant results.

When you do cut back perennials, it’s a good idea to follow up your June trim with a 2-inch (5cm) layer of organic mulch such as shredded bark or leaf mold, keeping a gap of a few inches from the plant's central crown. This mulch helps your freshly shorn plants retain vital moisture while they gather their strength. It also helps to cool the roots. With those little checks in place, it’s time to chop these perennials so you can enjoy another gorgeous summer flush as soon as possible.

1. Hardy Geranium (Cranesbills)

Let’s start with the one that hits the ground running with gusto in my garden in early summer: the hardy geranium (aka cranesbill). These pretty free spirits thrive in zones 3-9 and flourish mighty fast. But by mid-June, you’ll be seeing floppy flowers and telltale gaps where stems are sagging. Be brave: gather up clumps of post-flush foliage in one hand and use shears to cut the plant down to 2-3 inches (5-8cm) above the ground. This isn’t just a way to tidy up the plant, but a signal to your cranesbills to get to work on that second flowering medley.

To help them bounce back, give the area a deep watering after cutting. Skip heavy fertilizers and instead top-dress the soil around the base with a soil amendment like mushroom compost. You can buy Espoma Organic Mushroom Compost Blend from Amazon as a nourishing top-dressing right after pruning. Just take care not to overwater. For a bit of extra razzle-dazzle to fill gaps fast, add some zinnias this month. There are some lovely zinnia options available from Eden Brothers, including Benary’s Giant Orange, for a gorgeous color contrast.

2. Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla)

Lovely lady’s mantle (Alchemilla mollis) gets my prize for the most neon-tinged member of this perennial gathering. This cottage garden classic is cloaked in chartreuse flower clouds of blooms early in the season, as well as elegant pleated foliage. But those early blooms can look more rusty than neon as June progresses. Also, if left unchecked, this prolific self-seeder can drop thousands of seeds. So trace faded flower stalks to the base of the plant and snip them off at the basal foliage line. If the leaves look sun-scorched, shave off large outer leaves as well.

Your reward will be an immediate burst of fresh, velvet-soft leaves and a scattering of late-summer blooms. Hydrate well after chopping back, and tuck a handful of fish bone meal into the surrounding soil to bolster root strength with a much-needed phosphorus kick. You can get Down to Earth Fish Bone Meal from Lowe’s. To enhance the gorgeous, textural presence of your fresh alchemilla clouds and scalloped foliage, add some vibrant coral bells in hues of deep purple or mahogony.

3. Catmint (Nepeta)

Catmint (nepeta) has a reputation for being practically indestructible in zones 3-8, as well as being highly drought-tolerant once established. Given its robust nature, a timely chop is not only safe but actively encouraged to keep this fluffy perennial in fine fettle. By late June, that distinctive lavender-blue flowering mist will be looking deflated and tangled. To add renewed vigor for the second act, chop the plant back by half its height, shaping it into a neat dome. This simple act will trigger a new wave of fragrant stems around a tighter center, filling out in a few short weeks.

Because Catmint thrives in leaner, poorer soils, avoid using heavy nitrogen fertilizers after its June trim. Instead, give the root zone a gentle drink of diluted Neptune's Harvest Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer from Amazon to support its late-summer flower production. This gentle tonic strengthens plant cell walls for strong support and also helps to intensify flower color in those subsequent fluffy clouds, for a second wave of blooming brilliance that is quite simply the cat’s pajamas.

4. Yarrow (Alchemilla)

I’ve got a real soft spot for this next flowering perennial, with its millefiori mosaic-style bursts of blooms in colors as diverse as bright whites and pastel pinks through to rum-soaked reds and butterscotch golds. Thriving to zone 9, the sunny flower clusters of yarrow (achillea) are popular with local pollinators, but those landing pads will likely be fading into a dull brown by mid-June. To kickstart the magic again, cut fading stalks cleanly down to the fern-like basal foliage at ground level.

Yarrow is very self-sufficient and doesn’t need loads of ongoing care after chopping back. However, I would recommend a little side-dressing with a thin layer of chicken manure. This helps to enrich the soil naturally without over-stimulating leafy growth. You can buy Espoma Organic Chicken Manure from Walmart for an excellent granular source of slow-release nutrients to support that dazzling second flush. Complement with a few black-eyed Susans for a relaxed meadow vibe.

5. Perennial Salvia (Salvia Nemorosa)

Woodland sage or perennial saliva (Salvia nemorosa) is both cold hardy and heat tolerant, giving it broad cross-state appeal, and these saturated purple flower spikes are oh-so-moreish. That said, you might be seeing a few ratty looking seed pods come late June, which is definitely not getting the best from these purple legends. So cut the faded flower stems back to the green leaves at the base. If you look closely before cutting, you might even see tiny flower buds nestled in the leaf joints.

Producing a second wave of dense flower spikes does require a bit of wellie. Salvia really appreciates a nutritional pick-me-up right after its June chop. Scatter a handful of granular fertilizer into the soil around the drip line and water in thoroughly to feed those emerging buds. You can buy Espoma Organic Flower-tone Fertilizer from Amazon for a boost of bone meal and potash, formulated to promote heavy blooming. Just be careful not to snip off those tiny emerging buds when chopping back, and don't let the plant dry out completely while it is regrowing.

6. Coneflower (Echinacea)

Purple coneflower is one of the mainstays of my summer yard, and a source of endless joy once those cheeky flower heads start poking through in earnest. Thriving coast to coast in zones 3-9, they seem to arrive all at once after months of quiet stretching, and their gorgeous hues are hard to let go. But you can encourage a second wave. However, unlike the other perennials on this list, this tough native requires something more akin to deadheading than outright chopping.

As the petals droop and the cones turn dark brown, follow the flower stem down to the next healthy leaves, where you see a new side-bud forming, and cut just above that node. This keeps the blooms cycling through until the first hard frost of fall. Insert a few fertilizer spikes, such as Jobe’s Organics All-Purpose Fertilizer Spikes from Walmart, around the root zone to deliver a slow-release stream of nutrients for summer. A layer of mulch, like Back to the Roots Organic Hardwood Mulch from Amazon, will also help keep that joyful second flush perky and nourished.

Shop Perennial Care Essentials

Ready to unlock a bonus round of gorgeous summer color in your backyard? Having the right timely treatments makes your mid-season pruning much healthier for your plants, and brings you that eagerly anticipated second flush even faster. Offering organic nutrients that fuel quick reblooming and nurture stronger, richer colors, this curated trio will help to guarantee a vibrant, long-lasting summer display.

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

We think of orchids as fancy houseplants that are often given as gifts on special occasions. But in fact, the orchid family - with its 28,000 species - is the largest flowering plant family on the planet. It’s also been here a long time, developing in the Late Cretaceous Period some 100-125 million years ago. Yes, when dinosaurs walked the earth, they might have stopped to admire the orchids.

And here we are, in the 21st Century, still admiring our orchids, and what’s not to love? Having evolved over millennia, the orchid family today includes blossoms of every color, fragrance, size, and shape imaginable. Some have plain-colored petals while others are splashed or speckled with contrasting colors. Yet orchid care is similar for most common species and it varies from month to month. With the right care, the plants will last for years. Just remember a few key pointers: they like to grow in bright light, love humidity and hate being overwatered.

In June, orchids are in their peak growing season. That means that they need very specific care to thrive and produce blooms. Here’s a short list to make things simple.

1. Increase Watering As Temperatures Rise

Improper watering is the number one cause of orchid issues at home. This becomes especially important in June, since it’s the beginning of summer weather. You’ll need to water your orchids more often in summer since the temperatures cause the soil to dry out quickly.

If there is one element of orchid care that you need to perfect in June, it is the art of watering orchids. Nope, it’s not about pouring water into the top of the orchid container. Think baths, not showers. The best way to proceed is to plunge your orchid pot into a big bowl of tepid water. After about 30 seconds, remove the pot and set it in the sink until excess water drains out, then set it on a pie tin or gravel to encourage air circulation.

Orchids need more water in June than May or April. But unless June weather is exceptionally hot, a bath a week will probably do it. But here’s a tip to figure out if your plants are getting sufficient water. The roots are the key. If they are green, the orchid is happy. Silver roots mean that they need a drink.

2. Increase Humidity

Orchids love humid conditions. In fact, they bloom best in nature in locations with great natural humidity. But few of us in the United States get that kind of warm and humid conditions, so we have to create them for our orchids.

Yes, you can mist but the occasional spritz doesn’t really recreate a humid environment. A step up is to sit the orchid container on a tray filled with gravel and water. This pebble tray provides more humidity over a longer period.

3. Provide More Nutrients

As orchids begin their peak growing season in June, you’ll want to up the fertilizer you provide. The best fertilizer is one specifically designed for orchids, because these are biologically correct and carbon-balanced. This is available in most plant stores, but if you can’t find any in your area, use a balanced fertilizer, one with equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. This Miracle-Gro orchid food from Amazon is a balanced and gentle formula.

Apply low dilutions of this fertilizer on a consistent schedule. During the peak growing season, this will be every 2-4 weeks. That’s enough to support both growth and blooming.

4. Up the Air Flow

It may seem that a plant that loves humidity would object to too much airflow. Like many tropical plants, orchids thrive in humid conditions, but they still require sufficient airflow.

Air circulation around the orchid’s foliage keeps the leaf temperature down. It also helps to prevent fungal diseases. One of the best ways to assure air flow is to place your orchids near a partially opened window. If it is too hot to open the window, a small adjustable plant fan, available from Amazon, will do the job.

During peak growing season, it's important to monitor for bacterial infections, fungal diseases, and root rot in orchids. These issues can arise from overwatering, high humidity, and poor air circulation, so regular inspections are crucial for early detection.

5. Turn Down the Heat

The sun gets hotter in June. Although you may have been able to let your orchids get direct sun in early spring, by June, direct sun is not a good thing. Direct sun can also scorch orchid leaves.

Early June is the time to move them to a location that gets bright but indirect sunlight. And check every week or so as summer ripens, since the sun is changing position.

Every June, I find myself plagued by the sinking feeling that I've missed the boat when it comes to planting. The spring bulbs have come and gone, garden centers are already starting to tempt shoppers with fall favorites, and it can feel as though the main planting season is behind us. But then I remember one very important thing: perennials.

Yes, while some plants are best added in spring or fall, plenty of perennials can still be planted successfully in June, especially if you're buying healthy container-grown specimens. Better yet, many will reward you with flowers later the very same summer.

Now, as gardeners, we can be surprisingly rigid about planting calendars. Sometimes too much so. Because, while timing certainly matters, a well-watered perennial planted in June? Well, that can absolutely establish quickly and put on an impressive show before the season is out. It's basically a form of magic.

The Best Perennials to Plant in June

Once again, a little louder for the people at the back: June is a fantastic time to fill gaps in borders, add more pollinator-friendly plants, and inject fresh color into areas of the garden that aren't quite pulling their weight. And, depending on your USDA growing zone, you'll still have months of growing season ahead.

If you're looking for plants that will earn their keep before summer is over, these seven perennials are well worth adding to your garden now.

1. Balloon Flower (Platycodon grandiflorus)

Balloon flower is one of those pretty perennial plants that delights me every year. Before opening, the flower buds swell into balloon-like puffs, making them almost as attractive as the blooms themselves.

Plant it in June and you'll often still enjoy its star-shaped blue, purple, pink, or white flowers later in the season. Hardy in USDA zones 3-8, it's easy to grow and reliably returns year after year.

Shop Balloon Flowers:

2. Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)

If you're trying to support pollinators, butterfly weed deserves a place in your garden.

This native perennial produces clusters of vivid orange flowers that attract butterflies, bees, and other beneficial insects throughout summer. It's particularly valuable for monarch butterflies, which use milkweed species as host plants.

Hardy in zones 3-9, butterfly weed loves sunshine and once established becomes impressively drought tolerant. Mix things up with the Gay Butterflies Butterfly Weed from Nature Hills; its multicolored blooms make a serious statement.

3. Coneflower (Echinacea)

The devil works hard, but coneflowers work even harder! This perennial's daisy-like blooms appear for weeks on end, providing color from summer into fall while also attracting pollinators and seed-eating birds. Available in shades of pink, white, orange, yellow, and red, they're versatile enough to suit almost any planting scheme.

Plant container-grown coneflowers now and they should settle in quickly while still offering flowers later this season. Try the Color Coded 'Knock 'em Red' Coneflower from Proven Winners if you want bold color that makes everyone stop and stare.

4. Coreopsis

Coreopsis (aka tickweed) is one of my favorite plants for gardeners who want maximum impact with minimal effort.

The cheerful yellow, gold, pink, or bi-colored flowers bloom prolifically throughout summer, often continuing well into fall if deadheaded regularly. Many varieties are heat tolerant and thrive in sunny locations.

For sheer flower power, few perennials can compete. Go for the classic Designer Threads 'Golden Needles' Threadleaf Coreopsis from Proven Winners if you want sunshine-coded blooms (or a Li'l Bang Candy Stripes Coreopsis from Nature Hills if you prefer things pretty in pink).

5. Salvia

Quietly replacing lavender like nobody's business, salvias are garden workhorses.

Why? Well, this perennial's upright flower spikes provide weeks of color while attracting bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Many varieties bloom from early summer right through until frost, making them one of the best value plants you can buy.

They're also remarkably tolerant of heat and dry conditions once established, which makes them especially useful for summer planting.

Shop Salvias Now:

6. Roses (Container-Grown)

While bare-root rose season has long since passed, container-grown roses can still be planted successfully in June.

Modern shrub roses and landscape roses are particularly good choices when it comes to perennials because they're often repeat-flowering, producing multiple flushes of blooms throughout the season.

As long as you keep them well watered while they establish, you'll likely be rewarded with flowers before summer is over. The Oso Easy Double Red Rose from Proven Winners is an excellent place to start.

7. Bee Balm (Monarda)

Bee balm earns its place in almost every pollinator-friendly planting scheme. After all, its distinctive shaggy flowers appear in shades of red, pink, purple, and lavender, bringing bold color to borders while attracting hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies in droves.

Most varieties flower from mid-to-late summer, making June an excellent time to get them established before their main show begins. Something like the Sugar Buzz Grape Gumball Bee Balm from Nature Hills promises purple prettiness right through to early fall.

One of the biggest gardening mistakes I make (other than, ahem, planting mint straight into my flower beds that one time) is assuming I've missed my chance to plant something. In reality, June offers a valuable opportunity to add fresh energy to the garden, especially when it comes to container-grown perennials.

With a little extra watering during establishment, these plants can quickly settle into their new homes and reward you with flowers, pollinator activity, and plenty of late-season color. And if you're anything like me, that means you can keep enjoying the excitement of planting season for a little longer yet. Hurray!

If you have ever despaired at that one stubborn, sun-baked corner of your yard that seems resistant to change, you are not alone. For countless growers, dealing with parched and unyielding ground can be a little soul-destroying – to say nothing of costly. But what if you could just sow some low-fuss annuals that not only thrive but flourish in dry, sandy soils? Because gorgeous plants for poor soil really are a thing!

When you stop fighting your yard’s natural state and start embracing its unique quirks, the magic can happen. If you’ve got dry, barren soil, this is the time to bring in some dazzling drought tolerant landscaping. Yes, there are beautiful flowering plants that grow well in dry, poor soil. These radiant, high-performance annual flowers are actually less happy in rich, heavy soil and will rot if given too much water.

If your backyard has a place where good plants seem to go to die, these gorgeous, sun-baked plants for bad soil are about to change your luck. These unfussy beauties can turn a frustrating landscaping problem into a triumph, saving you time, money and stress, while providing a massive reward for minimal effort. June is an ideal time to get these sun-worshipping dynamos in the ground. So get ready to switch up that barren ground into a magnificent, continuous explosion of color.

Planting Annuals for Dry, Poor Soil

Forget expensive soil amendments and endless watering chores. These bulletproof, desert-vibe flowers actually prefer your yard's worst, sandiest spots. You can create a gorgeous, eye-catching landscape with drought-tolerant, low-maintenance annuals. June planting is a great time to start these flowering plants for dry soil. Instead of pampering them with rich amendments, your main goal is to establish a tough-love routine that prepares these bulletproof beauties for the summer months.

Instead of spending fortunes trying to truck in premium topsoil or continuously mixing in heavy organic matter, you just need to work with what you have. Before you dig, verify your exact soil parameters with a reliable soil meter tool to confirm that your troublesome yard corner is truly dry and well-draining rather than just compacted. Use a multi-purpose soil tester, like the Yamron 4-in-1 Meter from Amazon, for highly accurate readings on moisture content, pH balance, and ambient sunlight levels.

For successful cultivation in loose, sandy, or stony soils, just give the area a single, deep soaking to settle the earth around the roots. This forces young plants to send roots deep, building a self-sufficient foundation that makes them bulletproof. The only other thing to think about is plant support. Several of these flowering annuals will find ways of supporting themselves, but if you have spare willow or bamboo supports handy, secure them at the time of sowing so as not to disturb fragile roots later. Once you’ve got that sorted, you’re ready to fling these carefree seeds into those dreary corners – then step back, and enjoy the show.

1. Moss Rose

Standard roses need rich moist soil to bloom and won’t do well in lean, dry ground. But moss rose (Portulaca grandiflora) is a flowering annual succulent with flowers that look like miniature roses. It needs sun to bloom best, but it acts like a cactus when it comes to soil. It features fleshy, needle-like leaves and low-creeping stems that store water with remarkable efficiency. Barren, dry, rocky, gravelly and sandy terrains are where this annual thrives, making it ideal for the edges of retaining walls.

Reaching 6-9 inches (15-23 cm), this colorful ground cover produces an abundance of jewel-toned, ruffled blooms that look like miniature silk roses. It flourishes in USDA zones 2-11, blooming from early summer right up until first frosts. Pinch back trailing stems in midsummer to encourage a new wave of flower buds. A note of caution for pet owners, though: the foliage is toxic to dogs and cats. You can buy Moss Rose Double Mix Seeds from Eden Brothers for a rainbow of mini peony-style blooms.

2. Globe Amaranth

Annual globe amaranth (Gomphrena spp.) is a dream for lazy or busy gardeners, adapting to dry, sandy, chalky, or lean clay conditions with zero complaints. They offer unique lollipop-shaped blooms on wiry, wind-resistant stems. Plants in the Gomphrena genus are native to tropical and subtropical regions. But while some globe amaranth are perennials, hardy in USDA zones 10 -11, this annual globe amaranth brings dazzling color that lasts from summer through to first frost.

The plant forms a sturdy, upright bush of fuzzy, branching stems reaching 12-24 inches (30-60cm) tall, topped by whimsical, spherical flower heads. These flowers are actually stiff, papery bracts that hold their intense coloration for months on end, with hues of carmine, purple, orange and red. Globe amaranth is happy in dry sandy soil, chalky gravel, and even nutrient-deficient clay, as long as it drains well. Don’t give these plants high-nitrogen liquid fertilizers, as this will only trigger fuzzy green leaves. You can buy Sow Right Seeds Purple Globe Amaranth Seeds from Amazon.

3. California Poppy

With their satiny orange petals that look like cups of sunshine, California poppies (Eschscholzia californica) light up roadsides and barren hillsides across the country. The official state flower of California thrives in dry, sunny places and is uniquely adapted to nutrient-depleted soil. Although these joyful poppies are grown as annuals, they self-seed happily, and as long as you get the sunshine, they will keep coming back to dazzle arid yard spots for years.

They just need at least 6 hours a day of direct sun and well-drained soil. Growing to 12 inches (30 cm), these cool-to-warm-season annuals develop a deep taproot to anchor the plant in loose sand while mining for moisture reserves. Sow directly onto the surface of loose, sandy soil and rake in lightly. You mustn’t treat these plants with kindness. They don’t need much water and whatever you do, don’t fertilize them. You can buy ‘Yukon Gold’ Seeds and ‘Frilly Fun Appleblossom’ Seeds from Burpee.

4. Annual Blanket Flower

You just can’t go wrong with tough, native-style wildflowers when dealing with problematic growing zones, and the annual blanket flower (Gaillardia pulchella) is an exceptional choice for dry, sandy soil. While many nurseries sell perennial hybrid varieties that fizzle out after a single hard winter, the true annual blanket flower is a bulletproof champion. Reaching up to 24 inches (60cm), it produces a dazzling show of daisy-like flowers featuring bicolored petals with bright yellow tips that blend into fiery orange mid-sections and deep purple centers.

Thriving beautifully across all zones as a summer annual, this plant is exceptionally drought-tolerant once its root system establishes. It is also a vital nectar source for local butterflies and native bees when other flowers begin to scorch. They just need plenty of sun and well-draining soil. Leave the final batch of faded seed heads on the plants at the end of autumn. Local songbirds, especially goldfinches, love to feast on the seeds during leaner months. You can buy Dirt Goddess Super Seeds Gaillardia Pulchella Seeds from Amazon for continuing prairie color.

5. Cosmos

Cosmos (C. bipinnatus) are the undisputed romantic stars of the low-maintenance garden, bringing an airy, delicate, cottage-style aesthetic to barren wasteland. They look like big, colorful daisies, opening almost as wide as your palm on stems up to 6 feet (2m) tall. These graceful Mexican natives feature fine green foliage as well as an abundance of saucer-shaped blossoms. Butterflies, bees, and hoverflies will flock to these nectar-rich annuals from July to fall, and they will scatter their seeds at the end of the season to guarantee a fresh return of color next year.

These annuals perform best in baking, full-sun with poor, sandy, or gravelly soil. In fact, planting these drought-tolerant beauties in rich soil won’t get you very far; you’ll get lots more leaves and lots less flowers. Plant them in relatively tight groups and their fine, branching structures will interlock, creating a self-supporting network. It’s also wise to deadhead early flowers once they fade to encourage further blooms. You can buy OutsidePride ‘Cupcakes Blush’ Cosmos Seeds from Walmart.

6. Zinnia

While zinnias are famous for their bold, saturated colors, it is the narrow-leaf zinnia (Zinnia angustifolia) that is particularly noteworthy. This vibrant tough-as-nails native of the arid regions of Mexico and the American Southwest is naturally resistant to powdery mildew. It forms a dense mound of fine, narrow foliage that reaches 12-15 inches (30-38cm) tall and gets smothered in star-shaped flowers in brilliant shades of gold, copper, orange, and white, requiring zero deadheading to remain pristine.

Thriving in all USDA zones as a warm-season annual, it serves as a brilliant structural filler for hot path borders, tumbling over the edges of sunny retaining walls, or creating a vibrant display in patio containers. Look out for award-winning Profusion Orange or Profusion Double Fire, part of the Profusion Series, highly celebrated for its exceptional heat tolerance and inability to fade under the midday sun. You can buy Profusion Double Fire Zinnia Seeds from Eden Brothers for vibrant orange blossoms that take you all the way to fall.