Big, bold, colorful, and dazzling: these are the words that naturally pop into our minds when we picture our summer borders. We’ll often spend fortunes hoping to keep that early-summer color palette firing on all cylinders. And, typically, what we tend to imagine are dazzling perennial flowers with bright, showy blooms. But often, the joy that comes from vibrant blooms can leave your garden looking exhausted by June. Flowers are lovely, but their displays can be fleeting. Once their petals drop, you’re often left with a mass of plain, uninspiring green stems.

Furthermore, while flowers are pretty, foliage lasts longer. And foliage can be big, bold, colorful, and even dazzling. Pick the right foliage plants, and you’ll get jaw-dropping foliage that is often more impressive than the flower show. June is a great time to introduce some high-impact architectural foliage heroes into your garden beds and borders. By shifting your focus to hard-working perennials, you aren’t just planning for a quick burst of color, you’re also securing a lush, structurally gorgeous framework that anchors your yard from early summer to first frost.

The best part? Getting these vibrant foliage superstars settled now is simple and yields immediate, long-lasting rewards. We’ve lined up the hardest working foliage plant ideas to deliver structural, colorful foliage as well as flowers. Whether you’re dealing with sun-baked backdrops or damp, shady corners, these multi-talented gems offer a texture-rich appeal that pulls together different parts of your yard, just as it helps you transition between seasons with effortless style. Discover the assorted foliage plant heroes that prove leaves can easily steal the show!

Perennials for Showstopping Foliage

Have you ever said, "Oh, it’s just a foliage plant"? Trust me, you will never utter those words again once you meet these stunning, leaf-forward perennials. When leaves are this massive, deeply textured, or intensely colored, they easily outshine even the most delicate blossoms. To get the best out of these leafy icons, regardless of your USDA hardiness zone, just keep a few basic rules in mind.

Some of these perennials crave full-sun environments to deepen their pigments, while others require a damp, dappled retreat to protect variegated surfaces from getting scorched by aggressive UV rays. Make sure you know which zones best suit your plant, and choose foliage perennials with the best regional fit.

Before you plant, ensure you are setting these perennials up for long-term success, and check underground conditions first. Carry out a quick reading with a soil moisture tool, such as the XLUX Long Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon. This will help you ensure good drainage and moisture retention, so plant roots don’t risk sitting in stagnant puddles. Verifying hydration will also ensure your lively leafy perennials can handle any afternoon sun.

Topdress new foliage plants with a layer of organic compost to fuel massive leaf production without forcing leggy growth. Then you can decide which of these foliage beauties best fits your space. Remember, some foliage plants love shade, while others need full sun, so pick wisely!

1. Heuchera (Coral Bells)

Coral bells (Heuchera spp.) are mounding shade-loving perennials with pretty flower spikes. They bring gorgeous color, texture, depth and variety to the darkest corners of your yard. While pollinators appreciate their delicate, airy blooms, the real magic of these plants is generally in their lively scalloped leaves. The species plant offers leaves in lime green, wine, silver, purple, and nearly black. But if you pick a cultivar, there are plenty of other glorious options.

With standout cultivar 'Caramel', the ruffled leaves emerge in sun-kissed gold before deepening into a velvety apricot shade. Coral bells thrive in zones 4-9, requiring only a rich, organic soil that drains sharply. To create maximum drama, plant alongside fine-textured Japanese forest grass or wide-leaved blue hostas. Make sure to plant in partial or filtered shade, as intense afternoon sun will bleach those rich pastel tones. Don't let them sit in soggy, clay-heavy puddles, as their shallow root crowns are susceptible to winter rot. There are some amazing heuchera varieties available from Nature Hills, including lush Forever Purple Coral Bells.

2. Sea Holly

If you want to inject some dramatic metallic architecture into your backyard, sea holly (Eryngium planum) is highly memorable. This sun-worshipping marvel produces striking, thistle-like steel blue flower heads. However, its spiny-toothed, bluish-green foliage and intricate silver veining can steal the spotlight all season. Growing up to 3 feet (90cm) tall in USDA zones 5-9, it forms dense, structural clumps that look like living sculptures. It is highly prized for its unique, coarse texture and its rare ability to flourish in poor, sandy, bone-dry soils where other plants might wither.

For an unforgettable summer border setup, position sea holly next to soft, feathery ornamental grasses or bright yellow yarrow to make that icy blue pop. Full sun is mandatory to help it develop its signature metallic sheen. Don't overwater it or amend the soil with heavy fertilizers, though. This tough customer thrives on neglect, and too much rich food will cause those spiky stems to flop lazily. Buy Votaniki Blue Glitter Sea Holly from Amazon to add structural edge to sunny dry borders.

3. Japanese Forest Grass

For fluid movement and illumination in dark corners, flowers need not apply when it comes to Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra 'Aureola'). This perennial forms a dense, cascading mound of slender, 10-inch (25cm) golden leaves adorned with delicate emerald-green stripes. It ripples beautifully in the slightest summer breeze, mimicking a sunkissed waterfall pouring over your border edges. While loose panicles appear in midsummer, they are secondary to this weeping ribbon of gold that brightens USDA zones 4-9.

Plant as a lush groundcover in partial or dappled shade, and pair it with broad, dark purple foliage plants for a high-contrast visual. Don't let the soil dry out during summer heatwaves, though. Consistent, uniform moisture is the secret to keeping delicate leaf tips from turning brown and crispy. This is an easy garden guest and requires little maintenance. You can get similarly bright chartreuse All Gold Japanese Forest Grass from Nature Hills for impressive cascading structure.

4. Blue Hosta ('Sieboldiana')

Hostas are the classic foliage champions of the shade garden, but 'Sieboldiana' takes things to another level of grandeur. Cultivar H. 'Sieboldiana' features colossal, 10-inch (25cm), heart-shaped leaves, bathed in silvery slate blue. You can get them bluer if you plant them somewhere with light sun. As the season progresses into late summer, the foliage develops a gorgeous, deeply puckered texture that adds structural depth in zones 3-9. While pale lavender flowers ascend in July, the true prize is the massive, cool-toned foliage.

Place your blue hostas alongside fine-fronded ferns or bright chartreuse coral bells. Plant in full to partial shade, and avoid harsh afternoon sun which will melt away the delicate waxy coating. Slug protection is also a good idea, as these magnificent leaves are a magnet for hungry pests. Buy Hosta Sieboldiana Elegans Live Plants from Amazon for the ultimate jumbo blue-shade anchor.

5. Ligularia ('Britt Marie Crawford')

For gardeners who want maximum, unapologetic drama, 'Britt Marie Crawford' ligularia has enormous, glossy, rounded leaves with a dark chocolate-purple hue on top and maroon undersides. Unlike many dark plants that fade to green in summer, this cultivar holds this lush, deep pigmentation all season long. In midsummer, the plant additionally launches 3-inch (8cm) golden-orange daisies, creating a high-contrast display in sun or partial shade with zones 4-9.

This 4-foot (1.2m) tall perennial beauty looks stunning as a back-of-the-border accent, especially when paired with lime-green hostas or gold-variegated forest grass. Plant in a consistently damp, moisture-rich location. It loves soggy ground, making it perfect for rain gardens or pond edges. Don't allow this plant to sit in full afternoon sun, or these dramatic purple leaves will wilt in protest. You can buy Perennial Farms Rocket Live Plants from Amazon for a low maintenance, high impact perennial.

6. Siberian Bugloss (‘Jack Frost’)

Close your eyes and picture a huge, shimmering silver, heart-shaped leaves with green edging. Now say hello to the Jack Frost cultivar of Siberian bugloss (Brunnera macrophylla), an incredible foliage plant that grows like a champ in partial to full shade and thrives in zones 3-8. While it produces a sweet mist of forget-me-not flowers in the spring, it is grown primarily for this luminous, crackled silver foliage that lights up dark, gloomy garden spaces all summer long.

Reaching 2 feet (60cm) tall and wide, it makes an exceptional groundcover or specimen plant when paired with solid-green ferns or dark-leaved coral bells. Don't leave it untended as winter approaches, though, and prune away spent leaves at the end of the season to keep the crown clean and healthy for next year's flush. Buy Jack Frost Brunnera Live Plants from Nature Hills for shimmering shade accents.

7. Elephant Ears (‘Black Magic’)

Bring tropical drama to your summer yard with the 'Black Magic' elephant ears plant. This lush and lovely low-maintenance giant features massive, dusty charcoal-purple leaves that hang elegantly from long, dramatic petioles. Growing up to 6 feet (2m) tall in USDA hardiness zones 8-12 (and easily dug up and overwintered indoors in cooler climates), this plant transforms plain spaces into an exotic oasis.

Plant in damp, boggy areas, alongside chartreuse sweet potato vines or silvery grasses. Provide ample waterings and rich soil. Don't place it in dry, windy spots, where gales can tear those velvety purple-black sails. Buy Black Magic Elephant Ear Live Plants from Amazon for a high-impact perennial to bring instant dark drama. Once you get this perennial in your yard, you’ll be making up reasons to go outside.

Superstar Foliage Essentials

Give these gorgeous foliage perennials the support they deserve. Perennial foliage requires a different approach to flowering annuals. Make sure you can keep those giant elephant ear sails glossy, protect pristine hosta leaves from unsightly spots, and ensure cascading grasses don't get scorched by summer heat, and make some room for targeted plant treats. These curated high-impact treatments ensure your landscape remains lush, vibrant, and high impact all season long.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Drought-tolerant ornamental grasses are a boon in our landscapes. They save time and money on watering as well as reduce the demand on our water resources – and they look good doing it!

Ornamental grasses add movement, color, and structure to a landscape. Many of them provide four seasons of interest and also provide nesting areas and food for wildlife. These grasses survive periods without rain due to their deep network of roots that seek out water far below. Their deep roots also serve as erosion control.

If you haven’t added any low-maintenance ornamental grasses to your yard yet, I’ve rounded up the best ones to try that are drought-tolerant and perfect for almost any landscape. Add them to a rock garden, to a privacy screen, in a mass planting, or simply as a focal point. These tough yet beautiful ornamental grasses pack an extra punch in the landscape.

1. Little Bluestem

Little bluestem is a highly-prized landscape grass not only for its drought tolerance, but its beauty in the landscape. An Eastern North American native ornamental grass, its erect, bluish stems turn a warm, copper color in fall, complemented by purplish-bronze seed heads.

Growing 2 to 4 feet (0.6-1.2 m) tall, little bluestem grass tolerates high heat and humidity in addition to its excellent drought tolerance. It provides seeds and cover for wildlife and is a host plant for several butterflies and moths. Hardy to USDA zones 3 to 9, plant little bluestem in average, well-drained soil in full sun.

Get little bluestem grass for your garden from Fast Growing Trees online.

2. Blue Grama

Blue grama grass grows in a clump form to about 12 to 15 inches (30-38 cm). In midsummer, its flowering stems reach up to 2.5 feet (0.8 m) tall. The distinctive seed heads hang on one side of the stems like flags, giving it a whimsical appearance.

Foliage turns golden brown in fall, sometimes tinged with orange and red. The blonde, dried seed heads persist through winter. Hardy in USDA zones 3 to 10, plant blue grama in sandy to rocky soil in full sun.

Get 'Blonde Ambition' blue grama grass online from Nature Hills Nursery.

3. Ruby Muhly Grass

Growing about 2 feet (0.6 m) tall, muhly grass blooms in late summer to autumn with a show-stopping pink cloud hovering over the grass. Seed heads follow, turning tawny brown, along with the foliage, in winter.

Hardy to USDA zones 5 to 9, this Oklahoma and Texas native plant thrives in rocky, shallow, but well-drained soil in full sun to light shade. It tolerates heat, humidity, and drought.

Buy pink muhly grass in bulk from the Home Depot to quickly fill in your landscape fast.

4. Purple Love Grass

This warm-season grass grows all summer then produces florets that bloom above its green foliage, creating a dramatic haze of reddish-pink. Purple love grass performs best in dry, poor soils in sunny sites, growing about 2 feet (0.6 m) tall.

Besides being drought tolerant, it withstands salt on winter roads and even tolerates juglone from the black walnut tree. This North American native is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9.

Buy purple love grass plants that are ready to transplant from Garden Goods Direct.

5. Indian Grass

A warm-season perennial, Indian grass does most of its growing during the summer, reaching 5 to 7 feet (1.5 to 2 m) tall. Its blue-green leaves retain its color until the first frost date. Yellow inflorescences bloom in late summer to fall, swaying above the foliage. Fall brings colors of yellow-orange.

Native to the Southeastern US, it provides cover for wildlife and seeds for backyard songbirds. Hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9, grow Indian grass in dry, poor soil in full sun.

Start Indian grass from seed with these seeds from Walmart.

6. Blue Oat Grass

This western Mediterranean native brings steel blue, arching leaves to a mid-sized, cool-season ornamental grass. Similar to blue fescue, blue oat grass is larger and stouter. Besides being drought tolerant, it also resists deer, salt, and rabbits.

Hardy to USDA zones 4 to 8, it prefers full sun to part shade and dry, well-drained soil. Blue oat grass remains showy in all four seasons where winters are mild.

You can get ready-to-plant blue oat grass online from Amazon.

May is the month hostas really start moving. A few weeks back there was nothing, then emerging shoots, and then leaves that seem to open almost faster than you can track them. That speed is part of what makes timing matter here – some tasks only work before the leaves are fully out, and that window closes rather quickly.

Getting on top of hosta care in May pays off. The plant is actively pushing into new growth, so fertilizer actually gets taken up, divisions root in fast, and anything that goes wrong now has time to compound before you notice it, so it’s better to stay ahead of it.

The tasks below are the ones that make sense to tackle this month – roughly in order, though the first two especially have a timing component that actually matters.

1. Divide Overcrowded Clumps

Early May is about as good a window as there is for dividing hostas. The shoots are visible enough that you can see what you’re working with, but the leaves haven’t opened all the way yet – less stress on the divisions, less collateral damage to whatever’s nearby while you’re digging around. A sharp spade does the job well enough; drive it straight down through the clump, lift sections out. Each piece needs at least a couple of decent eyes on it to come back properly.

Get divisions back in the ground quickly – they don’t benefit from sitting around. Water them in well after planting. Old clumps that have been crowded for a while often push up above grade a bit, so planting the division at soil level or just slightly deeper than it was sitting tends to give it a steadier start. A sharp garden spade from Amazon makes cleaner cuts through dense root masses, which is definitely an important thing to consider.

2. Fertilize While Growth Is Active

The best time for fertilizing hostas is now, during active active spring growth. A balanced slow-release fertilizer worked lightly into the soil around the base of each clump in early May tends to push noticeably stronger growth than skipping it. Keep it away from direct contact with the emerging shoots, though; fertilizer burn on new growth is a real thing and it’s ugly.

One application is usually enough for the whole season if it’s a slow-release formula. Liquid fertilizers work faster but need repeating, which is either fine or annoying depending on how you approach the garden. Either way, don’t push nitrogen too hard late in the season – soft lush growth going into summer tends to attract more pest pressure than firmer foliage does.

3. Get Ahead of Slug Damage

Slug damage on hostas shows up as ragged holes – sometimes scattered through the leaf, sometimes along the edges – and it’s one of those things that’s genuinely easier to prevent than manage after the fact. May is when slug populations are building, and the new emerging hosta leaves are about as attractive a target as slugs ever get. Waiting until hosta pest damage is visible means waiting until it’s already too late for those leaves.

Bait applied around the base of plants before the leaves fully open is the most effective timing. Slug and snail bait pellets from Amazon are easy to keep on hand before the season gets going rather than scrambling for them mid-damage. Removing hiding spots – boards, thick mulch right against the crown, debris – takes away some of the shelter they rely on during the day and cuts down the population pressure somewhat.

4. Mulch Around the Base

Getting mulch around hostas before summer heat kicks in is good timing. It holds moisture, cuts down on weeds competing through the season, and keeps the soil from swinging temperature as much – all things that matter more later than they do now. Two to three inches (5-8cm) is enough. Go much deeper and moisture can sit against the crown too long, which is a problem in heavier soils especially.

Keep the mulch pulled back an inch or two from the actual crown of the plant. It’s a small thing, but piling mulch directly against the base is one of the more common ways hostas develop crown rot over time. Shredded bark or wood chip mulch works fine; fine-textured mulch can mat and shed water rather than absorbing it, which defeats the point.

5. Establish a Watering Routine

May can be a deceptive time – there’s often enough rain early on that watering seems unnecessary, but hostas putting on this much growth fast are actually pulling a fair amount of moisture. The plants in deeper shade under trees are competing with root systems that drink a lot. Checking the soil a few inches down rather than going by surface appearance is a more reliable read on whether they actually need water.

Slow, deep watering is considerably better than frequent light watering – it pushes roots down rather than keeping them near the surface where they’re more vulnerable to heat and dry spells later. A soaker hose from Amazon run along a bed is one of the lower-effort ways to water a hosta deeply and consistently without standing there with a hose.

6. Check for Virus Symptoms

Hosta virus X doesn’t get talked about enough, and May – when the leaves are fully open and patterns are readable – is when symptoms tend to become obvious. Look for coloring that doesn’t match the plant’s normal variegation: dark blotchy patches, streaking that looks wrong, leaf texture that’s slightly puckered or off. The complication is that some variegated hostas just look wild to begin with, so you need some familiarity with a particular plant to know when something’s actually wrong with it.

There’s no fix for hosta virus X once a plant has it. Infected plants should come out and go in the trash – not the compost pile – and any tools used on them should be cleaned before touching healthy plants. This hosta disease spreads through sap contact, so dividing an infected clump and moving divisions around is one of the faster ways to spread it through a garden. Catching it in May before any dividing happens is the best case scenario.

Ornamental grasses, from short and spiky edging grasses to show-stopping, tall and wispy fountain grasses, are striking and generally easy to grow. Many gardeners use these grasses for a low-maintenance feature and to add year-round visual interest.

Choosing low-maintenance ornamental grasses makes adding unique texture and color to your garden simple. The most important factor in choosing the easiest grass is to match it to your climate, conditions, and hardiness zone. Native grasses are the easiest of all to grow.

Here are some ideas for every type of garden.

1. Switchgrass

Switchgrass is a great choice for gardeners in the eastern U.S., where it’s native. Switchgrass is a pretty green grass that grows in upright clumps as tall as six feet (1.8 m) at maturity. It turns yellow in fall, and, unlike some grasses, won’t slump over in winter, allowing you to use it for dormant season visual interest.

Grow switchgrass in zones 3 through 9 in full sun and soil that tends to retain some moisture. Although it prefers moist soil, this grass does have good drought tolerance. The only real maintenance you need to do is to cut it back in spring to allow new growth to come in. Find 'Heavy Metal' switchgrass from Garden Goods Direct for cool, metallic blue foliage.

2. Bottlebrush

Like switchgrass, bottlebrush is native and can grow even in cold climates. It is hardy from zone 3 through 8. Elymus hystrix is a cool-season grass, so it thrives in the shoulder seasons and goes dormant during the heat of summer. It grows up to four feet (1.2 m) tall and has unique, bottlebrush-shaped seedheads.

Native bottlebrush is very low-maintenance if grown in the right conditions. It grows naturally in shaded woody areas with soil that drains very well and is even dry at times. It will reseed itself and come back year after year without much effort on your part. Bottlebrush grass can be found at Plant Addicts Nursery and shipped directly to you.

3. Pink Muhly Grass

For both a unique color and texture, choose pink muhly grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris). As the name suggests, this grass adds a touch of pink to the garden. The feathery tufts of pink or reddish flowers put on a show in fall. It’s a smaller grass, growing only as tall as three feet (0.9 m), and looks nice in rock gardens, beds, and as an edging plant.

Native to North America, you can grow pink muhly grass in zones 5 through 9. It tolerates a variety of soils, even poor, sandy, and rocky soils. It is also drought-tolerant and needs full sun. As with most other native grasses, you won’t need to fertilize this one. For the showiest blooms, trim the grass back while it’s still dormant in winter. Pink muhly grass, available from Fast Growing Trees, can be planted just about anywhere and is sure to make your neighbors jealous!

4. Little Bluestem

Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) is a great choice for most gardeners, as it is native throughout most of North America. Growing up to three feet (0.90 m) tall, little bluestem has silvery or bluish foliage in spring and summer. In summer and fall, it develops purple seedheads as the foliage changes to a coppery color and provides good winter interest.

Suitable for zones 3 through 9, you can rely on little bluestem to be low-maintenance in full sun and in even poor soils. It tolerates drought well but not standing water. 'Prairie Blues' little blue stem, available from Fast Growing Trees, offers stunning color year-round.

5. Japanese Forest Grass

For shady spots, consider Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra). Although not native, it’s also not invasive, as it grows slowly. Give it the right conditions, and this shade-tolerant grass will thrive for years in zones 4 through 9.

Japanese forest grass grows up to about two feet (60 cm) tall in neat mounds with green or variegated blades. It can grow in shade, but partial shade is best. The soil should stay consistently moist but also drain well. 'Lemon Zest' Japanese forest grass, available from Home Depot, is a stunner for shade gardens.

6. Mexican Feather Grass

This pretty grass is native to South and Central America and parts of the southwest U.S. It grows readily and easily in hot, dry climates and is hardy in zones 7 to 10. Mexican feather grass (Nassella tenuissima) has delicate and feathery foliage and summer flowers that ripple prettily in the breeze. It can be invasive in non-native areas, so check before planting in your garden.

Mexican feather grass grows as tall as two feet (60 cm), although it can also be shorter. It forms dense, fountain-shaped clumps and readily re-seeds in its native areas. Full sunlight is best, as is soil that drains very well. This grass will tolerate dry conditions but not standing water. Mexican feather grass can be purchased from Garden Goods Direct.

7. Sweet Flag

Do you have a tricky wet spot in the garden? Fill it with sweet flag, a clump-forming rush or grass that grows in standing water. You can use sweet flag along the edge of a pond or stream, but also in low spots in the garden that are always wet. This grass will not tolerate dry soil. The blades of grass are bright green and form in clumps that grow between one and two feet (30 to 60 cm) tall.

Sweet flag isn’t native, but you can grow Eurasian sweet flag in zones 4 through 10 and Japanese sweet flag in zones 6 through 9. Both need plenty of water and either full sun or partial shade. Find a beautiful variegated sweet flag grass plant from Garden Goods Direct.

Low maintenance ornamental grasses are surging in popularity! Besides adding movement, structure, color, and texture to the landscape, people are discovering their ease of care. Many varieties and cultivars are drought tolerant, and their showy flowers and seed heads extend their beauty well into winter. And the best bit? These dynamic garden stalwarts are so easygoing, they thrive year round even when neglected.

Yes, you can leave these gorgeous tough and textural beauties to their own devices, more or less, and they still look great. Although ornamental grasses generally need well-draining soil and sun to thrive, most tolerate poor soil and don’t need fertilization, unless a soil test deems it necessary. Once established, they require little (if any) supplemental water, depending on grass variety. You just need to cut them back in spring and divide plants occasionally to keep them healthy. Here are the ultimate ornamental grass varieties for lazy gardeners to love all year round.

What exactly are Four-Season Ornamental Grasses?

Ornamental grasses are classed as warm season or cool season varieties. Warm season grasses grow readily in spring and summer, followed by attractive flowers and seedheads, but then growth slows in autumn. They go dormant in winter. If you leave the foliage and seedheads intact, they provide winter interest as well as food for songbirds and small mammals.

Cool season grasses thrive in cooler climates and are most vibrant when the weather is cool, in early spring and early summer, then again in fall. During the heat of summer, foliage stops growing, but as soon as temperatures cool down again, green grass returns. They go dormant again during winter. Cool season grasses flower in late spring or early summer. Four-season ornamental grasses look great year round, from spring interest through to fall color. They display decorative flowers and seed heads and colorful foliage that persist well into winter.

Best Four-Season Ornamental Grasses

Ornamental grasses are ideal for groundcovers, erosion control, hedging and screens,, creating sensational borders and specimen plants. Tall- and medium-sized grasses make good privacy screens, hedges, or background plants for a perennial border. Smaller grasses make excellent groundcover or erosion control on a slope. Ornamental grasses are often interplanted among flowers or used as edging plants.

A few native ornamental grasses thrive year round thanks to their hardiness, adaptability and resistance to disease. Grouping them creates an eye-catching display with the grass-like foliage swaying in the breeze. Their decorative plumes and seed heads are great additions to floral displays and last for weeks. Here are 6 perennial ornamental grasses for year round interest.

1. Little Bluestem

Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) is a native, warm season grass with bluish green foliage that flourishes in USDA zones 3-10. Its foliage grows to 16 inches tall (0.4 m) and changes to copper or bronze in the fall. It produces tan flowers in late summer and autumn, growing on tall, rigid stems which extend the height to 30 inches tall (0.8 m) or more, perfect for a low maintenance native garden with year round interest.

Cultivars of little bluestem include ‘Blue Paradise’ (blue-purple foliage), ‘Brush Strokes’ (powder blue foliage that turns red), ‘Twilight Zone’ (pale blue foliage with purple tips) and ‘Standing Ovation’ (blue-green foliage which turns orange red). You can buy ‘The Blues’ Little Bluestem Grass from Nature Hills as a live plant.

2. Switchgrass

Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) is a warm-season US native with green-blue foliage that turns gold in fall. The airy seedheads seem to float above rigid stems that stand up well to winter. This beautiful ornamental grass that pollinators love will tolerate clay or sandy soil. It can reach 3-6 feet tall (0.9-1.8 m), and wildlife is well served with food and shelter.

Lovely switchgrass cultivars include ‘Northwind’ (gray-green foliage), ‘Shenandoah’ (red tipped green foliage), ‘Cheyenne Sky' (blue-green foliage that turns red), and ‘Heavy Metal’ (metallic blue leaves with pinkish panicles). This grass thrives in USDA hardiness zones 4-9. You can buy Switchgrass ‘Shenandoah’ from Fast Growing Trees at a discount while stocks last.

3. Pink Muhly Grass

Pink muhly grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris) is another North American native, and one of the most impactful ornamental grasses for all seasons. This warm season grass reaches 2-3 feet tall (0.6-0.9 m) and up to 4 feet (1.2 m) when in bloom. It is perfect for a border, groundcover or en masse. The more sun it receives, the more pinky purple flowers it produces, for a showy late summer display.

Pink muhly grass is hardy in zones 5-9. Leave the tan seed plumes of this dazzling muhly grass intact for winter interest. The tiny purple seeds are eaten by songbirds and small mammals. Cultivars include ‘Pink Flamingo',’ Regal Mist ‘Lenca,’ and ‘White Cloud,’ with billowy, white flowers. Buy Greenwood Nursery Store Pink Muhly Grass as live pot plants from Amazon.

4. Bottlebrush Grass

Bottlebrush grass (Elymus hystrix) is a native cool season grass which is perfect for shady areas. It actively grows in spring and produces flowers and seedheads during summer. Its chartreuse foliage reaches 2.5-3 feet (0.8-0.9 m) tall. The bottlebrush grass plant blooms for many weeks and the seedheads really do resemble bottlebrushes. It thrives in USDA hardiness zones 3-7.

A white, waxy substance on the stems and seedheads makes this ornamental grass a standout in the garden. It grows in partial sun or shade, and prefers average to moist soil. It may self-sow, but it is not aggressive. You can buy packs of seeds for Everwilde Farms Bottlebrush Grass from Amazon.

5. Feather Reed Grass

Feather reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora) is a hybrid of two species. ‘Karl Foerster’ is the most common cultivar, and was named perennial plant of the year in 2001 for its attractiveness, versatility and low maintenance. Its green, glossy foliage reaches 2 feet tall (0.6 m). In flower, expect this grass to exceed 5 feet (1.5 m).

This cool season grass produces pink plumes that change to maroon, then bronze, then fade to tan in winter. It is hardy in USDA zones 3-9 and works well with other late flowering perennials such as echinacea and coreopsis. The ‘Avalanche’ variety boasts variegated foliage with a central white stripe. You can buy Feather Reed Grass ‘Karl Foerster’ from Nature Hills as live plants.

6. Prairie Dropseed

Prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis) is an excellent groundcover or erosion control plant. This warm-season native grass tops out at 2 feet (0.6 m). Its showy fall flowers are also deliciously fragrant, with a buttery popcorn or melting wax scent. Summer’s fine-textured, arching green leaves turn orange in autumn, creating dazzling fall interest with big curb appeal, evolving to copper for winter interest.

Despite its name, prairie dropseed does not easily grow from seed. However, wildlife will enjoy the dropped seeds. This gorgeous ornamental grass thrives in USDA zones 3-9. You can buy Perennial Farms’ Prairie Dropseed Ornamental Grass from Amazon as live plants.

Little Care Tips for Big Impact

The most important care tip for these lovely ornamentals is to cut back your grasses each year before new growth starts in early spring. Prune ornamental grasses to 6 inches (15 cm) above ground. You can use pruners, hedge trimmers, or a weed eater with a brush cutting blade. For slicing through bulk grasses at speed and with confidence, try the highly rated Greenworks 24V 22in Cordless Laser Cut Hedge Trimmer from Amazon.

Ornamental grasses also benefit from division every three to five years, depending on the species. If the center starts dying out, it is time to divide. You can use a shovel or hatchet to dig plants up. Buy the Fiskars D-Handle Digging Shovel from Amazon for powerful control and comfort while digging. Roots are deep and sturdy, so digging and dividing can be a workout, but it’s an effective way to propagate your ornamental grass and keep it in good shape. The best time to divide is early spring for warm and cool grasses, but cool grasses can also be divided in fall.

Don’t Forget: Invasive Species

Avoid invasive ornamental grass species that multiply readily from seed or rhizomes, displacing native plants. One Asian species that is identified as invasive is Chinese silver grass (Miscanthus sinensis), a popular grass sold in nurseries. Cultivars such as 'Adagio,' 'Gracillimus,' 'Strictus,' and 'Zebrinus' should be avoided. However, giant miscanthus, a sterile hybrid, should be safe.

Fountain grasses, such as the non-native Chinese fountain grass (Cenchrus alopecuroides) and crimson fountain grass (Cenchrus setaceus) can escape cultivation and cause problems. Red flag cultivars include ‘Little Bunny’, ‘Red Head’ and ‘Hamlein’ grasses. Hardy pampas grass (Saccharum ravennae) can be invasive if allowed to reseed in wet areas.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Prized for their fabulous foliage and ability to thrive in even the shadiest of spaces, it’s little wonder that hostas are so popular – but there is one thing you need to do to them in the fall if you want them to come back lusher than ever next year.

Yes, these leafy lovelies have rapidly become some of the most fashionable plants, stealing the spotlight in ornamental show gardens across the world.

Part of the appeal, of course, is the fact that they've been hailed as some of the very best shade plants that thrive on neglect; indeed, there are over 2000 hosta varieties to choose from, but each is as self-sufficient as the last. Within reason, that is...

Get Out Your Pruners

Despite being so laidback they're basically horizontal, many gardening experts are now urging people to jump in and show their hostas a little more love in the colder 'ber months. Especially if they want to protect them from pests, diseases, and crown rot-inducing fungal attacks.

Thankfully, it's not a long sprawling list of jobs; it is, essentially, just the one thing you should do to your hostas in the fall. It might sound counterintuitive to anyone hoping for a big spring comeback, but the answer is simple: cut them back to around two centimeters above ground level.

Then, mulch with compost to help a) protect the plant from winter frosts, and b) put nutrients back into the ground for the year ahead. Something like Amazon’s Back to the Roots Organic Premium Compost is ideal.

Get the Timing Right

Of course, it’s not quite so simple as snipping your hostas back whenever you want; timing is everything, and it will differ depending on which of the USDA plant hardiness zones you’re based in as it’s based on the first frost date of the season.

Here’s the twist: the aim is to grab your snippers after your hosta leaves have been damaged by the first hard frost, not before. Never before.

Why? Well, because all of the lovely carbohydrates formed in your hosta’s iconic leaves via photosynthesis need time to travel back down the stalk and into the crown of the plant so that they can fuel next season’s growth. If you snip them before they’ve browned, you’ll stop that from happening.

Why Do It?

It’s worth noting that cutting your hostas back is entirely optional; some people do it to clear space in their borders for other seasonal plants, or because they hate the look of those tattered brown leaves. Some do it to deter slugs and snails. Others, however, might like that wintry aesthetic.

That being said, if your hosta has a common problem like powdery mildew or anthracnose, then you have no choice: you absolutely must do this one thing to your hostas to reduce the disease returning and affecting next year’s plants.

Just take care, in this instance, to treat your cuttings as garden waste rather than popping them in the compost pile and giving them those diseases a chance to overwinter.

Your Shopping List

It's always a good idea to make sure that you have everything you need to hand before you get started. To that end, then, be sure to grab the following if you decide to do this one to your hostas in the fall...

• A sharp pair of pruners, like the Fiskars ⅝” Bypass Pruner from Amazon
• A pair of puncture-resistant gardening gloves from Amazon
• A lawn garden bag from Amazon for leaves and compostable scraps
• Amazon’s Back to the Roots Organic Premium Compost for mulching purposes

Happy snipping!

Ferns are amongst the most popular foliage plants you can grow, and a magnificent go-to for shady areas of a garden. Quite often, they can be at their most dramatic when held captive in containers – spilling over the sides of large pots and pouring their elegant swords or frothy angles in all directions. To raise your game, whether you grow your ferns indoors or outside on a porch or balcony, you can grow certain ferns in hanging baskets that create drama and impact in high places.

Ferns are unique plants in that they do not reproduce by flowers. They are ancient plants that reproduce by spores, which you can see on the undersides of their fronds. In the garden, a fern hanging basket is great for areas with shade – and even deep shade, depending on the type. Going vertical with these characterful plants gives you a chance to showcase their varied foliage colors, sizes, shapes and textures. Here are some of the most impactful for fern hanging baskets, plus some great companions to lift your ambitions even further.

Best Ferns in Hanging Baskets

Make sure you understand the specific growing conditions for the ferns you choose. Most ferns require at least some shade, plenty of humidity, warm temperatures, and moist soil, but there is some variation depending on type of fern. Kimberly Queen fern, for instance, enjoys more light – while Japanese holly fern needs less moisture.

Soil in containers dries out more quickly than soil in garden beds, so be prepared to water your hanging baskets more frequently. If you’ll be growing a hanging fern indoors, you might need to mist it to create humidity in dry air. Use an ultra-fine mister like the Bealee Plant Misters from Amazon. Apart from watering and humidity issues, adding a little balanced, water-soluble fertilizer like TPS Nutrients Fern Fertilizer from Amazon during the growing season is adequate for most potted ferns.

Choose your ferns for hanging baskets based on available growing conditions. Certain larger ferns are not ideal for containers, but those in this selection will all flourish in hanging baskets, whether you are hoping to brighten up a low light room or a perennial shade garden. You can play around with container shapes and colors when selecting hanging baskets for ferns. Subtle tones allow bright green foliage to pop – while textural containers work with the naturalistic appeal of your plants. Here are some of the best plants for stunning hanging fern baskets.

1. Boston Fern

Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata) is the classic choice for a hanging basket. It is easy to care for and has elegant, arching fronds that are perfect for spilling over the sides of a raised container. Boston fern hanging baskets need warm temperatures, so you can grow them outside in summer – but unless you live in USDA zones 9-11, bring hanging baskets indoors to keep them safe and happy in the winter months.

When growing a Boston fern hanging basket, look for different cultivars for more variety. ‘Tiger Fern’ has gold and green variegated fronds, while ‘Dallas Fern’ is a compact variety which is perfect for smaller baskets. Start your hanging basket adventure with the Element By Altman Plants Boston Fern from Walmart.

2. Kimberly Queen Fern

Another tropical species, Kimberly queen (Nephrolepsis obliterata) has similar foliage to the Boston fern. Also known as sword fern, the fronds are long and lance-shaped and look great in a hanging basket. Kimberly queen ferns are also easy to grow and add elegance and individuality to quirkier hanging planters.

One advantage over the popular Boston fern is that it is less messy and sheds its small leaves only rarely. It also tolerates more direct light, so choose this type for a sunnier spot. You can buy a Costa Farms Kimberly Queen Fern from Amazon.

3. Japanese Holly Fern

Cyrtomium falcatum is a unique evergreen holly fern with glossy green leaves and serrated edges, reminiscent of holly leaves. You can grow Japanese holly fern outdoors in summer or indoors year-round in a spot that gets some afternoon shade.

The soil for this fern does not have to be as moist as for other types, so it’s a good choice for a hanging basket that will dry out more quickly. Grab a Japanese Holly Fern from Nature Hills while stocks last.

4. Asparagus Fern

Asparagus fern (Asparagus aethiopicus), also known as foxtail fern, has feathery fronds and is a tropical evergreen. This makes it great for outdoor baskets in summer and indoor containers year-round. In fact, in some areas of the US, this pretty fern is invasive, so growing it in pots is actually the best thing.

In filtered shade, the frothy asparagus fern will be bright green. It will grow just fine in deep shade as well, but in this case the color will be lighter. You can pick up a Sprengeri Asparagus Fern from Amazon.

5. Staghorn Fern

Staghorn fern is a unique epiphytic fern, meaning it thrives without soil. It grows large, antler-like foliage that looks very dramatic hanging from an appropriate mounting. That said, staghorn fern can be tricky to grow, so it’s not for beginners.

This hanging basket fern needs specific conditions, including bright but indirect light, warm temperatures, and very high humidity. It should be watered infrequently, but heavily. Buy CTS Air Plants Staghorn Ferns in Hanging Baskets from Walmart.

6. Best Fern Companions

Ferns are showstoppers that don’t really need companions. Just one healthy fern is simple yet elegant, and can make a creative container in a vertical display. That said, it can be great fun to make mixed baskets with ferns, accentuating their form with novel contrasts and differing tones. Here are some good ideas for companions.

• Mix Ferns: One of the important considerations for companion plants is that they all have the same growing conditions. So why not mix different types of ferns in one container? A feathery asparagus fern with a dwarf Boston fern, for example, provides a nice textural contrast, and both need similar light and moisture conditions.
• Impatiens: For a flower to pair with hanging ferns, consider growing impatiens. Like most ferns, these tropical annuals like shade and moist soil. Use them between ferns in a hanging container to add a splash of color. Blend your ferns with gorgeous Sol Luna Pink Impatiens Plants from Walmart.

• Polka Dot Plant: For rich flamboyant colors, try a polka dot plant (Hypoestes phyllostachya). This warm-weather perennial is popular as a houseplant or terrarium plant. It thrives in partial shade or indirect light and likes rich, moist soil. Polka dot plants have speckled leaves in shades of pink, white, and red. Enjoy a mixed combination with Fam Plant Store’s Polka Dot Plant Collection from Amazon.
• Coleus: Another plant well known for its spectacular foliage, coleus (Plectranthus scutellarioides) is easy to grow and comes in a variety of colors. The flowers aren’t special, but the leaves include mixes of green, chartreuse, burgundy, burnt orange, pink, chocolate and purple. Intersperse yours with frothy or elongated ferns for an interesting mixed basket that will thrive in partial shade. Buy bold Coleus Defiance starter plants from Amazon for zingy greens and rusty reds.

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Ornamental grasses are increasingly popular in the home landscape for several reasons. Grasses are generally easy to grow and require little maintenance. Plus, they come in a wide variety of colors, sizes, and textures, making for a diverse plant type in beds, along walkways, and even in naturalized areas.

Ornamental grasses can be environmentally friendly, too. You can find plenty of native grasses to use, but even non-native grasses tend to resist drought and need few resources. They provide habitat for wildlife and don’t typically have a lot of pests or diseases.

If you’re thinking of adding more types of ornamental grasses to your garden, one final benefit is that many look gorgeous year round. Growing ornamental grass can provide as much beauty in the snow in winter as lush, green plants can in summer. But there are certain varieties that put on an especially stunning show in fall. Let's take a look at the best ornamental grasses for fall color.

Best Ornamental Grasses for Fall Color

Many ornamental grasses change color in autumn and are hardy enough to maintain that color even after the first frost. But with so many varieties available, it can be hard to know which ones to pick. So I've made it easy and rounded up the best ornamental grasses for a fabulous fall show.

1. Little Bluestem

Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) is a native North American prairie grass that is tough and very easy to grow. It gets its name from the blue base of the stem that fades to green toward the top.

Little bluestem is hardy in zones 3 through 9 and grows up to four feet (1.2 m) tall. It will grow even in poor soil and is both drought and heat-tolerant.

This beautiful type of blue ornamental grass blooms at the end of summer and holds onto its wispy tufts as the stems transition to shades of maroon, bronze, and orange in fall. You can find different cultivars with some variations in color.

‘Standing Ovation’ is red to maroon. ‘Blaze’ turns orange and then reddish-purple. ‘Blue Heaven’ develops into a rich burgundy in fall.

Order a Standing Ovation little bluestem plant today from the Home Depot.

2. Switchgrass

For another native meadow plant with good fall color, check out this tall stunner. Growing up to 9 feet (2.7 m) tall, switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) blooms in summer with attractive flower plumes that last into fall. Grow switchgrass in full sun in zones 3 through 9. It’s not picky about soil type.

Be aware that some varieties of switchgrass offer better fall color than others. ‘Prairie Fire’ is a good option with deep, wine-red stems in fall. ‘Rehbraun’ has a reddish brown color in fall. ‘Shenandoah’ is one of the most prized varieties for rich burgundy fall color.

Get a 2-pack of Shenandoah switchgrass plants from Home Depot to create a colorful entry around your front door.

3. Prairie Dropseed

Prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis) is a native grass with a different texture and growth habit compared to bluestem and switchgrass.

Like these other ornamental native grasses, it’s easy to grow and will tolerate drought, heat, and poor soil in zones 3 through 9. But as a bonus, this is an endangered grass in some areas, so by letting it grow and develop seeds, you’ll help the plant and feed native wildlife.

Prairie dropseed grows only to about 2 feet (0.6 m) tall and has fine, thin leaves that grow in mounds, giving it a fluffy, feathery look. It flowers in summer and turns into shades of gold-orange to bronze in fall and winter.

Find prairie dropseed grass at Walmart or look for it at your local native plant nursery.

4. Pink Muhly Grass

Use pink muhly grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris) in areas where you want spectacular color in a smaller package. Muhly grass grows up to 3 feet (0.9 m) tall and about as wide in attractive clumps.

Native throughout North America, pink muhly grass is characterized by feathery, pink flower plumes that bloom in fall. You can reliably grow muhly grass in zones 5 through 9 and in a range of soil types.

It does best in full sun and doesn’t require a lot of water. In fact, muhly grass prefers drier conditions, so it’s a great choice for xeriscaping and for difficult, dry, rocky soils.

Make plant shopping easy and order pink muhly grass from Amazon.

5. Maiden Grass

Maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensis) is an attractive ornamental grass that grows up to 12 feet (3.6 m) tall, depending on the variety, with a graceful, arching shape. It’s hardy in zones 5 through 9, grows slowly, and prefers moist, well-drained soil in full sun.

This plant is native to Asia and may be considered an invasive ornamental grass in your area. Be sure to check your specific locale before planting and do not to let it spread to natural areas, even if you live somewhere where it's not listed as invasive.

Maiden grass flowers bloom in late summer and early fall in a pretty coppery color that fades to silver-white in fall and winter. Leave the grass in place until spring for good winter interest.

In addition to the pretty flowers, maiden grass stems turn different colors in fall, depending on the variety. For a spectacular fall show, choose ‘Fire Dragon.’ Its fall foliage is bright red-orange, topped by feathery white flowers.

Get fiery fall color with a Fire Dragon maiden grass from Nature Hills Nursery.

6. Pheasant’s Tail Grass

Another non-native species, pheasant’s tail grass (Anemanthele lessoniana) is a smaller grass with spectacular fall color. This grass blooms in summer and the leaves turn various shades of orange, red, and yellow in fall.

Pheasant's tail grows 2 to 3 feet (0.6 to 0.9 m) tall and has long, thin leaves that fall gracefully from a compact central clump. This show-stopping fall front yard plant is best for warmer gardens, as it’s only hardy in zones 8 through 10. In these areas, it is semi-evergreen.

Grow it in full sun or partial shade in nearly any soil type. Pheasant’s tail grass will tolerate drought, and although non-native, it does not aggressively reseed.

Start pheasant's tail grass with seeds from Amazon for a low-cost garden.

7. Pampas Grass

For an elegant grass, it’s hard to beat pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana), which grows up to 10 feet (3 m) tall. The stems are sturdy and upright, holding beautiful, feathery flower plumes from late summer into fall.

Depending on the variety you choose, you can get various fall colors in this fast-growing, non-native species. ‘Rosea’ and ‘Pink Feather' have stunning pink flower plumes that last well into fall. ‘Stunningdale Silver’ and ‘Ivory Feathers’ bloom with silver or white flowers in fall.

Pampas grass is easy to grow in full or partial sun in well-drained soil in zones 7 through 10. Just keep in mind that pampas grass is invasive in some areas. Be sure to check your specific growing location and do not plant if it is a problem where you live.

You can find pink pampas grass plants from Amazon for a pretty pop of color in your autumn landscape.

If you’re looking for an ornamental grass to add movement and sound to your garden, why not try a blue ornamental grass? From silver blue to blue-green to deep blue, blue ornamental grass hues change with the temperature providing eye-catching color all season.

Then in autumn, the colors change again to reflect the sunset. Adding a pop of blue grass to the landscape can brighten up a border or provide eye-catching color in a group planting.

Growing ornamental grasses near a seating area allows you to hear the rustling leaves in the breeze and appreciate their fine color changes. Create a serene space anywhere with blue ornamental grasses.

Our Top 6 Blue Ornamental Grass Plants

We gathered a group of six ornamental grasses with blue foliage to wow you and your neighbors. The smaller plants serve well as groundcovers, too. An ornamental blue grass plant is stellar as a specimen in a small garden or a container on the patio.

Small clumps of blue grasses can edge the front of a shrub, create an ornamental grass border, line a pathway. Native grasses such as little bluestem or switch grass can add movement and texture to a native garden or a pollinator garden, besides offering food and cover for wildlife.

Here are six ornamental grasses that feature blue leaves:

1. 'Twilight Zone' Little Bluestem

Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) is a native ornamental grass that grows 2 to 4 feet (0.6 to 1.2 m) tall and about 2 feet (0.6 m) wide with a columnar shape. Its leaves take on an iridescent silvery blue cast in summer, later adding purple and mauve highlights that increase in fall. The brownish seed heads provide food for wildlife. It tolerates heat and humidity and is deer-resistant.

'Twilight Zone' Little bluestem is a larval host plant for several butterflies and moths and provides cover and food for birds and other wildlife. Provide full sun and dry-to-average soil for best performance. USDA zones 3-9.

2. 'The Blues' Little Bluestem

For even bluer foliage, ‘The Blues’ little bluestem stays deep blue all summer then turns a coppery orange color in fall. Silvery white plumes form in late summer and persist through winter.

Like other little bluestem grasses, it provides food and cover for wildlife. It grows 2 to 3 feet (0.6 to 0.9) tall and 2 feet (0.6) wide. Provide it with full sun and well-drained soil. USDA zones 4-9.

3. Blue Fescue

Blue fescue (Festuca ovina glauca) ornamental grass is a European native that forms small, semi-evergreen clumps to 12 inches (30 cm) high and wide. The foliage color changes with the seasons from silvery blue to blue-green to mottled green in fall. The foliage stays green in winter in mild climates but changes to brown in cold climates. Flower spikes form with light green and purple flowers that turn a buff color if not deadheaded.

Blue fescue prefers full sun and moist soil but is adaptable to a wide range of conditions. ‘Elijah Blue’ is a common cultivar offered as well as ‘Sea Urchin’ and ‘Boulder Blue.’ USDA zones 4-8.

4. Shenandoah Switchgrass

Shenandoah switchgrass (Panicum virgatum 'Shenandoah') is a North American native with a columnar form that typically reaches 3 feet (0.9 m). The Panicum virgatum ‘Shenandoah’ cultivar features blue-green emerging foliage whose tips turn burgundy red by summer. Tall reddish-pink flower spikes dance atop the foliage in late summer. Seedheads provide food for birds.

Suitable for native plant gardens; bog gardens; along streams; or in mass, group, or accent plantings. Prefers a moist soil in full to part sun. USDA zones 5-9.

5. Blue Oat Grass

Blue oat grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens) is similar to blue fescue cultivars but is taller with steel blue foliage. The clump-forming grass is 2 feet tall (0.6 m) and 3 feet wide (0.9 m). Blue-flowered plumes in midsummer top the grasses. The blue leaves turn to light brown in autumn and remain through winter.

It brightens a perennial border, can be massed or used as edging, specimen, or container plant. Site it in full sun and well-drained soil. USDA zones 3 or 4-8.

6. Savannah Ruby Grass

'Savannah' Ruby grass (Melinis nerviglumis ‘Savannah’) is a tropical grass and, thus, generally treated as an annual. However, it is worth growing for its lush, blue-green foliage in the spring and summer that turns purple-red in the fall. The showy flower spikes have fuzzy pink heads that last into fall. Including the flower spikes, it grows about 2 feet (0.6 m) tall.

If grown in a container, it can be moved indoors for winter. Grow ruby grass in full sun in well-drained soil. USDA zones 8-10.

Many of us are drawn to the cooler hues of the color spectrum, such as deep purples and bright cerulean blues – but what about teal plants? You might occasionally find flowers dyed teal, but natural teal – a gorgeous shade of green-blue – is more often found in foliage. It’s a subtle and sophisticated shade that can work well as part of a monochromatic garden or as a complement to richer, more vibrant plant partners.

For anyone who enjoys the coolness and easy elegance of a blue colored garden or a flush of green to support bolder specimens, teal plants are a gorgeous addition to any growing space. Greenish blue tones are becoming more popular, so start planning your garden now to include these stunning natural teal colored plants.

Choosing the Best Teal Plants to Grow

Many plants are naturally blue. There are quite a few blue hydrangea varieties, Virginia bluebells, New England aster and baptisia (aka false indigo). But the quest for teal is a little more of a challenge. You might see advertisements for teal lilies or a teal iris plant, but these can be misleading. A flower that’s pictured as bright teal, like a teal poinsettia at Christmas time, may well have been created artificially.

For naturally teal-colored plants, look to the foliage. Just as you can find plants with blue leaves, there are quite a few examples of plants where the leaves and needles are a rich bluish-green. These teal plants can help to make a themed bed or to complement more dynamic border displays.

1. Eucalyptus

Eucalyptus trees have some of the most reliably teal-colored (and delightfully fragrant) leaves in the plant world. While some eucalyptus houseplants may grow slightly more green in tone, Eucalyptus gunnii has particularly attractive, dusty teal leaves. It grows to about 40 feet (12m) tall and has round, highly aromatic leaves.

Also known as cider gum, this eucalyptus is hardy in USDA zones 8 through 10 and is relatively low maintenance. This cheerful fast-growing plant also tolerates drought well.

2. Yucca ‘Excalibur’

Also known as Adam’s Needle, Yucca Filamentosa has long, spiky foliage that grows in a rosette up to five feet (1.5m) tall and wide. The ‘Excalibur’ variety has a plentiful plume of bluish-green leaves.

This yucca variety blooms with white flowers on a tall spike in late spring and early summer. Native to the southeastern US, Adam’s Needle is suitable for USDA zones 4-10, prefers full sun, and tolerates drought.

3. Blue Echeveria

Echeveria secunda (aka hen and chickens) may officially be called blue, but it is actually a teal succulent. You can grow it outdoors in USDA zones 9-12, or indoors as a houseplant anywhere. The fleshy blue-green echeveria leaves grow in an attractive rosette shape and have a dusty appearance.

This plant blooms with a yellow flower in summer. When caring for echeveria plants, make sure you use very well-draining soil, like a succulent or cactus mix. You should also provide full sunlight for blue echeveria.

4. Pampas Grass ‘Blue Bayou’

This variety of pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana) has a soft, pale bluish tint to its green leaves, giving a teal hue. It blooms with big feathery tufts at the end of summer into fall. Grow your teal pampas grass in full sun in USDA zones 7-11.

You may worry about pampas being an invasive ornamental grass, and some other varieties can grow very tall. However, ‘Blue Bayou’ is considered a dwarf type, growing only five feet (1.5m) tall.

5. Hosta spp.

Hostas are easy, shade-loving garden plants that come in a wide variety of sizes, colors, and leaf patterns. While plenty of hostas present with lime green, variegated tones, you can also find some varieties with deep, blue-green leaves, similar to a dark teal.

Blue hostas like ‘Halcyon’ are the most shade tolerant so they won’t grow well in too much sun and prefer a dappled or partially shady spot. It’s best to grow hosta plants like ‘Halcyon’ in USDA zones 3-8 in moist but well-drained soil.

6. Sedum ‘Marina’

Sedum, or stonecrop, is a group of succulents with fleshy foliage. There are many different types of sedum, some with unusual coloring. Sedum telephium ‘Marina’ is a distinctly teal-toned sedum and its leaves present with a greenish-blue hue.

It blooms with pink flowers in summer and fall. Sedum is a clumping perennial that grows well in USDA zones 3-9 in full sun. This variety tolerates rocky and sandy soils, and thrives in rockeries and container displays.

7. Juniper ‘Blue Star’

For a teal evergreen, it’s hard to beat Juniperus squamata. The ‘Blue Star’ cultivar has dusty, blue-green needles. It is hardy in USDA zones 4-8.

This juniper grows slowly, eventually reaching three feet (0.9 m) tall and four feet (1.2m) wide. Grow ‘Blue Star’ in full sun, preferably in a sunny bed or rock garden, to enjoy its year-round teal foliage to the fullest.

More Unusual and Unique Planting Ideas

• Want to cultivate more blues in your backyard? This roundup of dynamic native blue flowers to grow can kickstart your medley of cerulean, azure, cobalt and lapis.
• Looking for something a little out of the ordinary for your cutting garden this year? Take a look at these unusual cutting garden flowers to grow to extend your blooms beyond the usual suspects.
• Make sure your indoor space expresses your individuality to the fullest with these highly inventive blue indoor plants – guaranteed to complement any interior theme.

Often confused with winter heather, heath makes an especially attractive addition to home landscapes and container gardens. Heath plants are prized for their ease of growth and year-round interest. Their beauty is furthered only by their abundance, with each mound yielding a profusion of stunning purple-pink blooms.

If you’ve never grown winter heath, you will delight in the plant’s hardiness. Since winter heath blooms in the winter, it adds both color and appeal for seasons to come.

Caring for Winter Heath

Lighting Conditions

To grow an Erica carnea plant in your garden, situate the plants where they can receive bright, direct sun. The planted mounds require at least 6-8 hours, or full sun, to perform their best. Though well-adapted to cooler climates, these plants grown in warmer regions can benefit from brief periods of shade through the hottest portion of the afternoon.

Temperature & Humidity

Winter heath grows best where temperatures are mild, between 60-80 F (15-26 C,) throughout summer. Some especially tolerant varieties can withstand both heat and humidity with proper care. This will vary by region but may require using shade cloth or other cooling techniques to avoid stress related to heat and/or moisture. Plants are generally considered hardy to cold, remaining evergreen throughout even the coldest of growing zones.

Watering Needs

Heath thrives when planted into loose, well-draining soil. Water only when the upper layer of the growing bed has dried completely, taking special notice during periods of prolonged drought. Winter heath does not tolerate excessively wet or waterlogged soils, which results in stunted growth, yellowing or wilting of foliage, and even the loss of plants.

Fertilizing

Heath plants only seldom require fertilizer. Most species of the plant are treasured for their ability to flourish where soil fertility is low. You can feed them in spring using a balanced feed, or compost for ericaceous plants.

Soil & Compost

Though winter heath is well-adapted to a wide range of growing conditions, your soil plays a key role in the overall health of garden beds. Established mounds will thrive when given a sandy loam. Slight acidity helps the plants continue to grow. Compost is often added to garden soils at planting time to improve drainage and amend the soil.

Where to Plant Winter Heath

The addition of winter heath to the landscape is an easy way to add color and appeal to otherwise barren spaces, but where does the winter heath plant grow best? Gardeners should first consider their region. Though quite tolerant to cold, heath may struggle where summer temperatures are especially warm. This includes much of the southern United States. Light, moisture, drainage, and soil fertility are vital in determining whether or not your garden beds are a good candidate for the plant.

How to Sow and Plant Winter Heath

Though it may be tempting to grow winter heath seeds indoors or in trays, most growers opt for the purchase of larger transplants. This helps to ensure a more rapid period of establishment and ensures that each one will grow true to type. Plants are most likely to be available in the fall when planting is ideal. Planting late in the season, several weeks before the arrival of the first frost, allows ample time for new mounds to begin taking root. Your heath plants’ growth will continue through autumn and winter, and will further establish themselves the following spring.

Prepare for planting by working the soil to a depth approximately twice the height and width of the plant’s root ball. After removing each transplant from its pot, the plant’s roots can be teased gently free. New plants should be positioned into the hole so that the crown of the plant aligns with the surface of the soil. After each has been backfilled, the heath should be watered to settle the plant into its new home and encourage growth.

Trimming and Deadheading Winter Heath

When it comes to winter heath, most gardeners consider deadheading as optional. Deadheading can help keep these plants looking tidy, but removing spent blooms throughout the season is unlikely to promote flowering. Annual pruning or trimming is often performed around the same time, in early spring. This allows greater control over the overall size and shape of plants. Experts suggest pruning stems just below each flower branch, making certain to avoid damage to woody growth.

Winter Heath Pests, Problems, & Diseases

Though relatively carefree, winter heath plants may be frequented by pests. Some of the most common visitors to heath include aphids, whiteflies, and scale insects. Large numbers, each feeding on the plant’s sap, can quickly cause the plants to yellow or change in appearance. Learning to identify the problem helps with the rapid treatment of the pests. Disease may also be an issue where growth conditions are less than ideal. Fungal infections are the most common and are spread through contact with pathogens.

Propagating Winter Heath

Winter heath plants are most commonly propagated through cuttings. Heath cuttings can be taken from spring through summer, by removing only the healthiest of stem segments. Strip small pieces of lower foliage, leaving only 1-2 sets of leaves atop the cutting. New cuttings should then be allowed to callus, before being moved into a moist rooting medium. Consistent moisture and humidity are essential to the process, with continued monitoring for the development of roots over the course of several weeks.

Best Varieties of Winter Heath

Though most varieties of winter heath offer lasting year-round beauty, colors, and textures can vary. This is especially true of varieties that bloom in interesting shades of pink or purple, or those that feature an extended bloom time. Such cultivars include ‘Kramer’s Red,’ ‘Winter White,’ and ‘Pink Spring.’

Frequently Asked Questions

Finding low light plants for the garden can be a challenge, and that’s where colored hostas save the day. There are over 2,000 registered cultivars of hosta plants. Hosta colors include hues of blues, greens, cream, and yellows. And often these colorful hosta plants sport several colors on the broad leaves. Add to the foliage tones and hostas also offer brightly toned flowers in spring. Growing hosta plants just requires some shade during the day, well draining soil, and bulbs.

Different Colored Hostas

Colored hostas make standout specimens in the garden. These ornamental, herbaceous perennial plants are native to Asia and relatives of asparagus. There are 5 major leaf color classifications. These are green, gold, blue, medio- variegated, and marginal variegated. Medio-variegated varieties of hosta have dark margins with a light center, while marginal variegated colorful hostas have light margins with a dark center.

There are also new cultivars that have a leaf color different from the petiole. In these, petioles in hues of purple and red support the huge leaves. Hostas prefer full to partial shade, although there are some sun tolerant hostas that can be grown in full sun. They also need a few months of exposure to temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4.4 C).

Red Hostas

So far science hasn’t developed red leaves in hosta plants, but Raspberry Sundae, Beet Salad, and Purple have brightly hued petioles in some seem to bleed out into the center of the leaf.

Some of the new cultivars have created differently hued flower scapes.

In the case of Cherry Berry, the leaves are white with dashes of green but they also boast red flower stems and deeply purple flowers. Red Hot Poker has red flower stems. Red October produces burgundy petioles or leaf stems.

Yellow Hostas

Lipstick Blonde is quite amazing with lemon yellow leaves and bright red petioles.

More Colorful Hosta Plants

Still not satisfied? Here's a quick list of 18 more stunning hosta varieties.

1. Blazing Saddles: medium plant with yellow marginal variegation and creamy white.
2. Blue Cadet: a small hosta with heart shaped blue leaves and tall flowering stems.
3. Blue Mouse Ears: a very diminutive plant with deeply blue, small, slightly curved leaves.
4. Plantain Lily: probably the most commonly known and one of the varieties with the most sun tolerance.
5. Gold Edger: chartreuse leaves compliment lavender flowers.
6. Lemontini: small plant with butter yellow pointed leaves.
7. Blue Silver: quite narrow, pointed greenish gray leaves.
8. Autumn Frost: the leaves have grayish blue centers bordered irregularly by gold.
9. Albomarginata: large oval green leaves with a white border.
10. Hyacinthina: a color changing plant with blue leaves most of the year that turn olive green in summer.
11. Empress Wu: one of the largest of the group with huge green oval leaves and flowers that present up to 4 feet ( 1.2 m.) in height.
12. Gold Standard: another color changer who emerges with green leaves that turn to gold with blue-green borders.
13. Golden Tiara: a small plant with green heart shaped leaves bordered by gold.
14. Francee: pointed dark green leaves with a defining white edge.
15. Elegans: one of the wavy leaf varieties in blue.
16. Red Dragon: one of the newer cultivars with red petioles and light green leaves.
17. Twist of Lime: a tiny plant with yellow leaves bordered neatly by green.
18. Wrinkle in Time: the dark green leaves have light yellow margins in spring which turn to white in summer.

Frequently Asked Questions

Ornamental native grasses can prove to be ideal for use in your home landscape. Adapted to a wide range of conditions, most ornamental grass species will grow well, requiring only little care from you. Plants can be used in containers, mixed borders, or used as hedges and privacy screens. Identifying native grasses that grow best in your own yard requires some careful research. Below, we’ll explore some of the most popular and unique native American grasses and their characteristics.

Choosing the Best Ornamental Native Grasses for Your Garden

Ornamental grasses can vary greatly from one species to the next. Size, form and overall growth habit will all help you determine which ornamental grass plant is a good fit for the garden. This is especially true of native types, which often demonstrate an improved tolerance to insect pressure and disease. When growing ornamental grasses, local species thrive where conditions for growth are ideal, and they support local wildlife and the backyard’s ecosystem.

1. Indian Grass

Like many taller species, these unique ornamental grasses add height and drama to a yard or garden bed. Indian grass (Sorghastrum nutans) sets its seed early. Over time, Indian grass plants will develop a notable warm, bronze hue. Though the grass may spread where conditions are ideal, growers seldom find it to be aggressive or invasive. Indian grass is further praised for its hardiness, adaptability and resistance to disease. Plants are hardy to USDA zones 3-9.

2. Big Bluestem

Known for its use within prairies and meadows, big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) is a good choice for gardeners in search of tall, colorful foliage. As weather cools in autumn, big bluestem growers can expect beds filled with vibrant shades of copper, red, and orange. Plants should be trimmed routinely as a means to maintain a tidy, compact form. Big bluestem grass is hardy to USDA zones 3-9.

3. Blue Fescue

Blue fescue (Festuca ovina glauca) grasses are among the most popular species used in the landscape. Plants are especially attractive when the weather is cool, often performing best in spring and early autumn. Its low, mounding habit makes blue fescue ideal for use as a groundcover or as bedding within mixed borders. Hardy fescue is known to thrive when planted in rock gardens and containers, as well. Plants are hardy to USDA zones 4-8.

4. Muhly Grass

A true show-stopper among ornamentals, gardeners are certain to delight in the color and appeal of muhly grass. As cooler weather approaches in fall, each of the plant’s plumes will take on an ethereal pink hue. Large plantings of muhly grass are especially attractive, as beds will seemingly glow with color. Muhly grass is generally considered easy to grow, as it native to much of the eastern United States. Plants are hardy to USDA zones 5-11.

5. Prairie Dropseed

Prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis) is most commonly planted amongst established perennials. Delicate foliage is used to add a light, airy appearance to beds. Plants add further interest to the growing space with their unique fragrance and fall color. As prairie dropseed plants play host to several species of butterflies and moths, their addition to the landscape can help to restore the garden ecosystem and improve its overall health. Plants are hardy to USDA zones 3-8.

6. Switchgrass

Another popular choice for meadows and naturalized spaces, switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) plays an important role in the creation of wildlife habitat. Established plantings of switchgrass serve as an invaluable source of food and shelter for birds and an array of small mammals. Plants are hardy to USDA zones 3-10.

7. Tufted Hairgrass

Known for its airy appearance, tufted hairgrass (Deschampsia cespitosa) can add elegance and sophistication to most any ornamental bed. Large plumes can be used as a focal flower or to draw the eye through the landscape. Plants are especially striking when arranged en masse or as an accent to pollinator gardens. Tufted hairgrass is hardy to USDA zones 4-8.

Frequently Asked Questions

As autumn sets in and tree leaves blaze with glorious color and begin to fall, our gardens become more and more exposed. There are many options to help screen your area and give it more privacy, but in the outdoors, plants are a wonderful choice.

There are many plants for fall gardens that provide seasonal color in the form of foliage hues, flowers, fruits, or outstanding contours. When used as privacy plants, they can create an outdoor oasis filled with sensory delights.

Planting perennials in fall is an ideal time due to the season's cooler temperatures and wetter conditions. The soil is still workable and plants will have time to establish their roots before winter’s cold embrace.

Here are our top plants to provide a leafy retreat in your yard.

1. Virginia Creeper

If you have a wall, fence or trellis, a vine makes a lovely privacy screen. Virginia creeper is a climbing vine with leaves that sport odd-numbered leaflets. The plant climbs using tendrils and is quite hardy.

Though Virginia creeper loses its leaves when frost arrives, it puts on an awesome show of color during the fall. The leaves turn purple-red, beginning at the edges, and progressing through the entire leaf.

This easy-care North American native is suitable for USDA hardiness zones 3 to 10 and grows rapidly, culminating at 30 feet (9m) if left unchecked. Unlike many vining plants, Virginia creeper won’t damage buildings as it sticks to surfaces with adhesive roots rather than burying roots into structures.

Blue black berries are present in early fall and are an important food source for songbirds.

2. Viburnum

Viburnums are a collection of various plants in different sizes with varied flower and fruit colors. There are options for USDA zones 2-10.

In spring viburnums produce a plethora of white flowers, which are a magnet for pollinating insects. Blooms give way to berries in the fall, which may be bluish black or red, and provide food for a variety of wild birds and animals. The gently scalloped foliage glows with pinks, reds, oranges, and other sunset hues.

Viburnum needs full sun and well-draining soil. Once established plants rarely need maintenance, although you can prune them to shape.

3. Beautyberry

Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) is a native shrub that can get 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4m) tall. It isn’t suitable for northern gardeners since it is only hardy in zones 6 to 11, but it packs a lot of punch in the autumn.

The plant has green, oval, pointed leaves which turn yellow with a pinkish tinge, but the standout feature is the fruit. Deeply purple berries in tight clusters line the stems in fall. These fruits provide much-needed food for over 40 bird species.

Beautyberry prefers moist, well-draining soil but has some drought tolerance once established. Plant it in full to partial sun. In late winter, cut the stems back to within 1 foot (30cm) of the ground. This will promote more compact growth and more berries.

4. Oakleaf Hydrangea

Native to the south-eastern US, oakleaf hydrangea has several seasons of appeal. Spring sees pyramid-shaped clusters of white flowers, but in fall the oak-shaped leaves burnish with burgundy, maroon, and other tones. The older bark is interestingly reddish brown and roughly textured.

Oakleaf hydrangea is suitable for USDA zones 5 to 9. It grows up to 8 feet (2.4m) tall with a similar spread. Plants thrive in rich, moist, well-drained soil in full to partial sun.

The shrub doesn’t produce a neat hedge but instead, a freely arching and natural screen. It may be pruned to keep the plant in a certain size. Just remember it blooms off of old wood so prune after flowering.

5. Fragrant Sumac

Fragrant sumac (Rhus aromatica) has gently toothed leaves and stems that form an informal hedge when planted en masse. The leaves release a lemon scent when crushed.

Plants have both male and female flowers, with female blooms producing red, edible berries. These often persist into fall where birds enjoy them. In the fall, the leaves will go through a color change featuring purple, red, and orange tones.

Fragrant sumac grows 6 to 12 feet (1.8 to 3.6m) tall and thrives in USDA zones 3 to 9. It doesn’t need pruning but you may shape it if you wish.

The tiny spring flowers attract pollinators in spring, while the fall berries are eaten by many bird species.

6. Glossy Abelia

Glossy abelia (Abelia × grandiflora) blooms from late spring into early fall with clusters of pink or white flowers boasting prominent pink to purple sepals. The leaves are small, shiny, oval and green during most of the year, but in autumn turn purple red as the season cools. The overall shrub is loose, with arching stems, and rounded.

Glossy abelia is hardy, drought tolerant, and deer resistant, suitable for USDA zones 6 to 9. Plant in full sun or part shade where soil is moist and well draining.

This is a low-maintenance plant once established but it can be pruned if necessary. The plant blooms on new wood, so prune in late winter to early spring.

7. Ninebark

Ninebark is a North American native plant with several seasons of interest. It is quite cold hardy and useful in northern gardens, and is compatible with USDA zones 2 to 7.

Its foliage is yellowish green most of the year but turns a rich chocolatey bronze in fall. The leaves have slightly serrated edges and are so veiny they have a crinkly effect. The bark sloughs off as it gets older giving the stems a shaggy appearance. In spring, small clusters of white flowers appear.

Ninebark is adapted to most soils, moist or dry sites, full or partial sun. It may get 10 feet (3m) tall. There are many varieties of ninebark with foliage colors in orange, maroon, and gold.

Hostas are extremely popular perennials in North America. Although not native here, they don’t become invasive in most circumstances. They tolerate shade, even deep shade for some varieties, are easy to grow and maintain, and come in an astounding variety of sizes and colors.

From tiny groundcover plants to sprawling plants with big leaves, you can find a type of hosta plant for any space. Which hostas are the biggest? Check out these impressive giants of the hosta world if you’re looking to fill large areas of the garden.

Choosing the Largest Hosta Plants to Grow

Grow the biggest hosta plants in areas where they can take up space. The biggest varieties can be focal points in a bed or serve as backdrops for lower-growing plants. Use them to fill in spaces under trees or shrubs that are too shady for other plants.

What Are the Biggest Hostas?

As with any variety, know the conditions needed for optimal growth before selecting any one type. Regardless of size, growing hosta plants requires rich, moist soil that drains well and partial or deep shade. Darker-colored hostas need more shade, while lighter, more yellow hostas look best with some morning sun. Keep in mind that these types of larger hostas will grow best and biggest when watered deeply and regularly.

1. Empress Wu

‘Empress Wu’ is one of, if not the largest of all hosta varieties. It easily grows taller than four feet (1.2 m) and wider than four to five feet (1.2 to 1.5 m). The leaves are big, too, measuring up to two feet (61 cm). ‘Empress Wu’ has dark green leaves, reddish-violet flowers, and grows best in deep or dappled shade.

2. Blue Angel

This variety is similar to ‘Empress Wu’ but a little shorter at two to three feet tall (0.6 to 0.9 m), but just as wide. Its leaves are also dark but have more of a blue tint. Provide ‘Blue Angel’ with a shady spot to enjoy its best color. The summer flowers on this variety are white.

3. Victory

‘Victory’ was introduced as a new giant hosta variety in 2003. The leaves are smooth and medium green with yellow margins that fade to a cream color as the plant ages. As it emerges in spring, it grows with an upright shape, eventually unfolding into a mound that can be up to six feet (1.8 m) wide. As a bonus, this hosta is more slug-resistant than some other varieties.

4. Sum and Substance

‘Sum and Substance’ is a giant variety with chartreuse leaves that become more yellow over the course of the summer. As with most lighter-colored hostas, it looks best with two or three hours of direct morning sun. Expect this variety to eventually grow two to three feet (0.6 to 0.9 m) tall and five to six feet (1.5 to 1.8 m) wide. With thick, substantial leaves, ‘Sum and Substance’ resists slugs well.

5. Dream Weaver

For a large hosta with variegated foliage, choose ‘Dream Weaver.’ Although not as large as some of the truly giant varieties, it will grow about 30 inches (0.8 m) tall and five feet (1.5 m) wide. The large leaves have a thick, blue-green margin with a yellow center. The leaves are rounder than those of many other varieties.

6. Riverboat Queen

‘Riverboat Queen’ grows in an attractive, upright mound with round, deeply rippled, and corrugated leaves that are bluish-green. The leaves emerge with a white, waxy coating in spring but become shinier as the season progresses. Expect ‘Kim’ to reach about 3.5 feet (1.1 m) tall and five feet (1.5 m) wide. Deep shade is best for this blue variety of hosta.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do you think of turf grass – like the typical American lawn – as real grass? It’s not surprising that many do, given the fact that we “water the grass” and “mow the grass” and “rake the grass.” In fact, if you want to see real grass in your landscape, you’ll need to plant ornamental grasses: plants in the genus Gramineae or related plants like sedges and rushes.

The Best Ornamental Grasses

Ornamental grasses require little maintenance and add color and interesting texture to any garden. Which types of ornamental grasses to choose? Pick one appropriate for your hardiness zone and climate. Here are seven of our favorites.

1. Muhly grass (Muhlbergia capillaris)

This beautiful and showy ornamental grass grows to 3 feet (90 cm) in either direction in a sunny location in USDA hardiness zones 6–11. Growing muhly grass is easiest in warm locations. It has showy pink flowers in the fall that create a real show-stopping display with their fluffy, cloud-like texture.

2. Maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensus 'Gracillimus')

A popular ornamental grass for cooler hardiness zones. It thrives in USDA zones 5–9. This is a warm-season, clump-forming grass that can grow to 5 feet (152cm) and even taller. It is also called Chinese silvergrass, maiden grass is appreciated for its graceful arching form (its narrow leaves sway in the breeze) and coppery flower panicles in late summer that become silvery plumes.

3. Feather reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’)

An extremely showy and popular ornamental grass, feather reed grass has tall, narrow green leaves and grows in upright clumps. The flower spikes are light purple, and the golden seeds persist into the winter. Feather reed grass care is possible in all but the coldest regions, USDA zones 4-11, and requires a full sun location.

4. Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus)

For the warmest regions – USDA zones 10 and 11 – consider lemongrass, a relatively short, densely clumping grass native to India. The slender leaves of grass arch gently and tolerate poor soil. Growing lemongrass requires a location with partial or full sun.

5. Blue Fescue (Festuca ovina var. glauca)

This cool-season, clump-forming ornamental grass is native to Europe. It has extremely attractive silvery-blue foliage and only grows to 10 inches (25cm) tall growth. Blue fescue growing is best in a full sun location although it will grow in partial sun. If you want the blue shade deeper, give the grass more sun and pick a cultivar like Elijah Blue.

6. Purple Fountain Grass (Pennisetum setaceum ‘Rubrum’)

Purple fountain grass is a warm-season, clump forming grass native to Africa that likes a full sun location. Its thin leaves grow to 4 feet (121 cm) tall in a graceful, arching habit. This variety is famed for its burgundy purple foliage. In mid- to late summer, it bears long dark purple flower spikes that resemble bottle brush and they persist until the first frost. This variety is for warm-winter climates only, thriving in USDA zones 8–11, but it's possible to grow purple fountain grass as an annual in chillier regions.

7. Zebra grass (Miscanthus sinensis 'Zebrinus')

You really understand the term “ornamental” when you look at zebra grass (Miscanthus sinensis Zebrinus), with its blades of grass rising to 5 feet tall (152 cm). The green grass blades offer dramatic variegation with horizontal golden strips, and the golden section increases in early fall. For additional interest, the grass produces small white flowers followed by seed head plumes. Zebra grass care is recommended in USDA hardiness zones 7-9.

Frequently Asked Questions

Polypodium is a fun little fern also called rock polypody or polypodium vulgare. It is native to the Americas and parts of Asia, with some species from Africa. The polypody fern prefers moist sites with some shade and makes an interesting woodland or riparian specimen in the garden. A common variety of fern, the polypody is an evergreen that forms a mat as it matures.

Polypodium Care

Polypody ferns are low growing plants, seldom reaching over a foot (0.3 m) in height with a similar spread. As with most outdoor fern care, they don't need much attention, as long as they're situated in an area with sun protection.

Light

Most of the species of polypodium fern prefer partial to full shade. Deep shade seems ideal where the plant gets 2 or fewer hours of direct sun per day. They perform best as understory plants, protected from sun by trees or other taller species.

Water

While these ferns need well draining soil, they do require consistent moisture. Plants in the ground should be watered daily in summer heat. Those in containers may need watering twice per day in the summer.

Temperature & Humidity

Each species has a different hardiness level. Several are hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 while others, such as P. polypodioides and P. vulgaris are only hardy to USDA zone 6. They prefer temperate regions and cooler temperatures overall.

Soil

Well draining sites are necessary for the health of these ferns. The polypodium fern is often found in sandy soil, but humus to nearly infertile soils are also acceptable. The resurrection fern ( P. polypodioides) can also be grown on logs or even rocks.

Fertilizer

Established plants do not need feeding, but will respond well to a light spring application of a balanced fertilizer. Plants in containers should receive a diluted by half fertilizer in spring and every month until August.

Problems, Pests, & Diseases

These ferns have no listed pest or disease concerns. They are even rabbit and deer tolerant.

Pruning

The only pruning necessary on polypodium is to remove dead or damaged leaves. Over time, the lower leaves will die to make room for new growth. Simply snip these out at the crown.

Propagation

To propagate ferns, divide the rhizomes in early spring or autumn and pot them up in a peat/perlite mixture. Keep the mixture moist as the new plant produces more roots. Naturally, the plants reproduce by dispersal of spores.

Repotting

Container bound plants will enjoy a well draining soil with coir and perlite or vermiculite. Remove the plant carefully when repotting and reinstall it at the same level it was in previously. Water immediately after repotting to settle soil.

Varieties

• Polypodium virginianum: Virginia polypody or rockcap fern is found wild in cliffs, rocks, boulders, and on ledges. It has arching, deeply cut fronds and will mature into colonies of clumps.
• Polypodium polypodioides: Resurrection fern will curl up and the leaves will brown in hot weather. Just when you think it died, cooler weather and rain will see it rise up like Lazarus. This fern needs to be exposed to very little sun and in a site where the soil is cool and damp.
• Polypodium appalachianum: Appalachian rockcap fern forms a dense mat that traps nutrients and moisture. The lance shaped leaves are widest at the base.
• Polypodium virginianum: This fern looks similar to the Appalachian rockcap, but its leaves are widest at the middle. The plant is very sensitive to dryness and sun. It is an epiphyte which gathers its nutrients and moisture from the air. The fern is often found in inhospitable soils or even rocks.
• Polypodium vulgare: Native to Africa and Eurasia, this is one of the less hardy of the polypodis. In its native range it is made to make nougat and used as an herbal remedy. The leaves are leathery and lance shaped with distinct bumps visible on the upper leaflets. This fern is known as common polypody.

Ornamental grasses have become popular in gardens for many reasons, but mostly for their striking appearance and contrast with traditional flowers and perennial plants. They are also easy to maintain and often hardy.

Grasses come in a variety of sizes and colors, making them versatile additions to beds and edges.

Another great reason to grow ornamental grasses is to support pollinators in your garden. Native grasses provide vital habitat for many types of pollinators. They offer shelter and serve as sites for overwintering eggs, caterpillars, and pupae.

The best ornamental grasses for your garden are native species. These will survive the winter, require little maintenance, and be the best hosts for pollinators.

Here are some examples of beautiful ornamental grasses suitable for specific regions. Always check a plant is compatible with your USDA planting zone before purchasing.

1. Big and Little Bluestem

Big bluestem and little bluestem grasses are native to most of the US, and hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9. Little bluestem has a wider range, but big bluestem is still native to the eastern two-thirds of the country. They serve as larval hosts for several species of butterflies throughout their range.

These are bunch grasses that grow in attractive clumps, up to two feet tall for the little grass and up to eight feet tall for big bluestem. The slender stems are blue-green in color, turning rich burgundy in fall. They produce forked flower stalks and seedheads in summer and fall.

Both grasses do well in full sun or partial shade and do not need a lot of water. They tolerate a variety of soil types but not wetlands.

2. Tufted Hairgrass

This is a great choice for wetter areas of the garden. Native to most of the US and Canada, tufted hairgrass is suitable for zones 2 to 8. It grows in neat mounts up to five feet tall and produces pretty, delicate purple flowers in summer.

Tufted hairgrass hosts and feeds several pollinator species, but it is mostly deer-resistant. Plant it in wet areas of the garden. It will also tolerate more shade than many ornamental grasses.

3. Sideoats Grama

For a more compact native species, try sideoats grama. Native to most of the US and Canada, this is also the state grass of Texas, where it plays host to at least 14 native pollinator species. It grows in clumps up to about two feet tall and is a good choice for smaller spaces.

Sideoats grama is especially attractive when in bloom in summer with purple and orange flowers.

Grow sideoats grama in full sun in nearly any soil type, as long as it stays mostly dry. It needs very little maintenance and watering. It is hardy in zones 3 to 9.

4. Mexican Feather Grass

This ornamental grass is native to most of the southwest and Mexico and is hardy in zones 7 to 10. Note that it is considered invasive in southern California.

Mexican feather grass is a fine-textured wispy grass that puts on a show in even the slightest breeze. It stays green most of the year, browning only a little in the hottest part of summer. It produces feathery, light seedheads in spring.

Mexican feather grass should only be planted in dry soils. It will not tolerate a lot of water. It is easy to care for and rarely needs to be watered. It is also one of the best ornamental grasses for containers and prefers full sun to partial shade.

5. Muhly Grass

Muhly grass is a group of native grasses that grow in most of the eastern US but are hardier in the south. They grow in zones 5 through 11.

Muhly are among the most beautiful native grasses because of their striking, feathery flower spikes. Growing up to three feet tall, muhly grasses have thin stems that turn copper in fall and showy, cloud-like purple to pink flowers.

Grow muhly grass in full sun and in a variety of soil types. It tolerates drought well and does not need to be watered often. In addition to pollinators, muhly grasses attract ladybugs – helpful predator insects that attack pests.

6. Switchgrass

Switchgrass is native to most of the US and Canada. It is not native to western states but grows well in zones 5 to 9. Switchgrass varieties range from four feet to as tall as eight feet and make striking privacy screens or tall backdrops in perennial beds. It shelters numerous pollinators and provides a fall food source for native birds.

Switchgrasses provide green color in spring and summer and a range of rich fall colors. The flower spikes are less conspicuous than the tall stems and leaves.

Plant switchgrass in full sun in soil that retains some moisture. Once established, it will tolerate drought.

For most of these native species, you can now find showy cultivars. To enhance your pollinator garden, look for varieties of native grasses with varied colors, different textures of flowers and seedheads, and unique fall shades.

While they do pretty up the garden, are hostas edible? The hosta plant is a shade to partial shade foliage plant with little fairy-like purple to white flowers. Hostas grow from rhizomatous roots and begin to produce tightly furled leaves in early spring. Eating hostas isn’t a well-known culinary experience but it is supposedly a delight. Edible hostas span all the varieties, but the Montanas are said to be the tastiest.

Can You Eat Hostas?

I used to have a huge hosta garden which even included a prized Empress Wu. I now live where it is too hot and dry to grow these glorious forage plants, but I wish I had known then what I know now.

Many popular web searches ask, “Are hostas poisonous?” Usually, the question refers to protecting curious pets. The glycoside saponins do make the leaves toxic to certain animals, like cats and dogs. Though many gardeners can attest that deer and rabbits love the taste of their hostas.

But can you eat hostas? The answer is a resounding “yes.” In Japan, the plant has been harvested for centuries and is called “sansai,” or mountain vegetable. Hostas are said to be similar to asparagus, so they have to be good!

How to Harvest Hostas to Eat

It’s important to source hosta leaves that have not been exposed to chemicals like herbicides or pesticides. The young leaves called “hoston” are the best part. These are the early shoots that curl up from the soil in spring. The older leaves are edible but may be tough and bitter.

Harvest the plants in the morning for the best taste. Using a sharp knife, take the leaves at the soil level. You can also simply pinch off leaves. The smaller leaves on the outside are more bitter than the inner leaves. You can also harvest hosta flowers. These are purported to have a mild pepper flavor. Always wash any foraged foods thoroughly before using them.

How to Prepare Hostas

Treat the leaves like lettuce or spinach when eating hostas. After washing them and drying them you can use them in a variety of ways. They may be kept whole or the individual leaves divided away from the cluster. Young hoston leaves may be chopped into a salad. Thicker hoston may be pan-seared or gently braised. Stir fry the smaller ones and add sesame oil and soy sauce. Whole, larger hostas can be boiled.

The leaves have a slightly bitter flavor that pairs well with sweet, smoky flavors. The addition of garlic or other allium masks some of the bitterness. Hosta flowers are best fresh, tossed in a salad or used as an edible garnish.

Storing Hosta Hostons

The leaves can be stored for 2 days in the vegetable crisper drawer. Wash them and let them air dry. Then layer them with paper towels in a plastic tub or baggie. They are best fresh and will get wilted if they are allowed to sit in the refrigerator for more than a couple days. If you wish to use them like frozen spinach, blanch the chopped leaves, let them dry, and freeze them.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wondering how to grow pink muhly grass? If you think grasses can’t be stunning ornamentals, you may have never seen pink muhly grass. This perennial grass offers lovely swaying clumps in spring and gorgeous pink plums of flowers in summer and fall. The blossom fluff fades, but the dried flowers remain on the plant during dormancy to provide winter interest.

Quick Pink Muhly Grass FactCaring for Pink Muhly Grass

• Botanical name: Muhlenbergia capillaris
• Height: 2-3 feet (60-90 cm)
• Spread: 2-3 feet (60-90 cm)
• Sun exposure: full sun
• Soil requirements: Any soil that drains well
• Hardiness zones: 6-9
• When to plant: Spring or fall

Caring for Pink Muhly Grass

Pink muhly grass needs little hands-on care. It’s a native clumping grass that can thrive perfectly well on its own given the correct placement. In case you are wondering, the common name “muhly’ comes from the genus name Muhlenbergia.

Light

You can find ornamental grasses for shady landscapes, but pink muhly grass is not one of them. Plant this perennial grass in a sunny area with at least six hours a day of direct sun.

Temperature and Humidity

This is a grass that won’t thrive below USDA zone 6. It prefers a hot or warm climate without excess humidity. Too much humidity invites fungal diseases.

Watering

This amazing native grass won’t run up your water bill. Once established, it is drought tolerant and won’t need much more than the occasional rainfall in most situations. If it is a truly dry summer and the soil is bone dry to a depth of 2 inches (5 cm), give the grass about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water to tide it over.

Fertilizer

One of the many benefits of selecting native plants is the fact that they rarely require any help in the nutrient department. They are used to the local soil. So don’t fertilize pink muhly grass unless a soil test indicates that some nutrient is missing.

Soil and Compost

Pink muhly grass will pass on wet soils and those with high alkalinity. It thrives on medium or dry soil that is pH neutral or slightly acidic. It will tolerate high-salt content soils without blinking an eye.

Problems, Pests & Diseases

With native grasses, if you give them the site they require, they are generally untroubled by diseases and pests. This is the case with pink muhly. It is a tough native grass and if it gets enough sun and the soil is medium to dry, it won’t face many issues. Wet soil can rot the roots, while too little sun will reduce or eliminate the flowers. High humidity can also lead to fungal diseases. The only remedy for these issues is replanting in a more appropriate location.

When and How to Plant Pink Muhly Grass

If this native sounds like a possibility for your yard, you might be wondering how to plant pink muhly grass. You can buy transplants at the garden store or grow it from seed. In either case, pick a sunny site with excellent drainage and prepare it for planting.

If you are growing from seed, buy the seeds or collect them from faded flowers in autumn. When to plant pink muhly grass? Plant the seeds or transplants in early spring. In a mild climate, sow seeds directly on top of the prepared soil. Otherwise, start them indoors, again simply on top of the soil, since the seeds must have sunlight to sprout. Lightly water the area by misting for the 10-14 days it takes the seeds to sprout.

Are you planting transplants? Place them at least 2 feet (61 cm) apart to give them room to spread. Remember that each clump will grow to 3 feet tall (0.9 m) and 2-3 feet (0.6-0.9 m) wide.

How to Prune Pink Muhly Grass

Prune pink muhly grass annually. This should happen just before the growing season begins, ideally in early spring. Never cut in summer since that will reduce the number of show-stopping flowers. Trim the grass but not too much, leaving 3-6 inches (7.5-15 cm) of growth above the crown of the plant. Use sharp pruners to make the job easier.

Propagating Pink Muhly Grass

Ornamental grass division is far and away the easiest method of propagating pink muhly grass, and you’ll have to do it anyway. The grass clumps get too packed together, which prevents the proper air flow from passing between them. Every few years you should dig out clumps, divide them into several chunks, and replant elsewhere. Note that the roots can be tough and may require serious tools to dislodge them; sometimes even a chainsaw.

Pink Muhly Grass Varieties to Try

If you don’t like pink or you just would like to experiment with other varieties of muhly grass, you are in luck. There are more than a few cool cultivars to try. We like:

• White Cloud - with ivory, billowy, upright. These are great as specimens.
• Rose Muhly - a shorter pink muhly grass with looser flowers, excellent for containers
• Regal Mist (Muhlenbergia capillaris Lenca) - small form, compact selection with pink/red blossoms, better for containers

Frequently Asked Questions

Quick Southern Maidenhair Fern Facts:

• Botanical name: Adiantum capillus-veneris
• Height: 10 inches to 2 feet (25 cm to 0.6 m)
• Spread: 10 inches to 2 feet (25 cm to 0.6 m)
• Sun exposure: Part shade to deep shade
• Soil requirements: Moist, neutral-to-alkaline, well-drained, organic rich soil
• Hardiness zones: USDA 6-9; UK H3
• When to plant: Spring, after frost has passed

What Is A Southern Maidenhair Fern?

Southern maidenhair fern is a delicate, sprawling fern that requires specific growing conditions to do well. Also called Venus maidenhair fern or Venus hair fern, Adiantum capillus-veneris is hardy in USDA zones 6-9. With protection, it may survive to zone 5.

Its light green, deciduous leaves are fan-shaped with lobed edges on arching, black stems, which lends itself to another common name - black maidenhair. The fern does not bloom but produces reproductive spores on the undersides of its leaves. It is native to temperate and tropical areas worldwide.

Southern maidenhair fern is suitable for container culture, woodland gardens, naturalized areas or native plantings.

How To Grow And Care For A Southern Maidenhair Fern

At home among wet limestone rocks, maidenhair fern can thrive in the following conditions:

Light

Maidenhair fern requires part shade, such as dappled shade under a tree, to full shade. Too much sunlight will burn the fronds.

Water

Venus maidenhair needs constant moisture but in well-draining soil. Do not let the soil completely dry out or the fern will die back quickly. Water it consistently in spring and summer, but reduce the water in winter while it is not growing.

Temperature & Humidity

Humidity is preferred with mild temperatures. Hot, dry wind can damage the fern.

Soil

The maidenhair fern’s soil can be neutral to slightly alkaline in sandy, loamy, or amended clay, and it requires soil that is well-draining. It prefers moist soil that is rich in organic matter.

Fertilizer

Indoors, you can fertilize maidenhair fern with a diluted houseplant fertilizer every three weeks. Do not over-fertilize. Outdoor ferns can be fertilized in spring after new growth begins. Use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer to prevent over-fertilization.

Problems, Pests & Diseases

The maidenhair fern is relatively disease and pest-free. Avoid spraying the fern with insecticide, which can kill it. Too much sun may scorch the leaves. Deer generally avoid maidenhair fern.

How to Plant a Southern Maidenhair Fern

Plant maidenhair fern in well-draining soil high in organic matter in a shady to partly-shady location. Plant it as deep as it was in the container. Water well and mulch to help keep the soil moist and roots shaded.

Pruning

To control the size of this plant, simply cut it back to the desired size. Cutting it back also will stimulate new growth.

Propagation

You can propagate maidenhair fern by rhizome division in early spring every three to five years. (This is the preferred method for home gardeners.)

Ripe spores from the plant can be propagated on a humus-rich medium. Keep the medium moist and preferably covered with a plastic bag over the container. Spores should germinate within 6 weeks. Pot up the new plantlets as soon as they can be handled. Keep them indoors for two years.

How to Grow a Southern Maidenhair Fern Indoors

Grow maidenhair fern indoors with indirect light, a humid environment, average indoor temperatures, and constant moisture. Do not allow the fern to dry out. Mist it daily or set the pot on a tray of pebbles with about ¼ inch of water. You also can increase humidity by keeping the fern in a cache pot. Fill the space between the two containers with moist sphagnum moss.

Keep the fern away from heat and air conditioning vents. Ferns can do well in a terrarium.

Repotting

Repot southern maidenhair fern when roots begin to show on the surface of the soil or roots emerge from the drainage holes.

Overwintering

If the maidenhair fern is not hardy in your area, it can be overwintered indoors. Bring it inside before freezing temperatures arrive in the fall and treat it as a houseplant during the winter.

Frequently Asked Questions

The graceful, arching foliage of ornamental grasses is showing up in landscapes around the country. With colorful plumes they offer year-round beauty while encouraging the presence of wildlife, providing nesting habitat and food sources. Many tall decorative grass plants are also low-maintenance native plants that establish easily and are drought-resistant.

Are you considering introducing ornamental grasses for landscaping? Read on for information about these perennial grasses and how to use them on your property.

Why You Should Grow Ornamental Grasses

Lawn turf is losing popularity with homeowners today. Native perennial grasses require less irrigation, fertilizer, and pesticides than regular grass. They also add unique patterns, colors, and textures to the yard, with grass shades ranging from traditional green to blue, red, and purple. They increase the appeal of the landscape in all four seasons, including a snowy winter garden. The flowering heads provide other color shades.

Ornamental Grasses for Every Garden

Ornamental grasses are not cookie-cutter plants. There are many species of native grasses available, and the range of sizes, shapes, and colors is amazing. Tall vertical decorative grasses, like giant reed grasses, can even work as hedges, while others are mounding and low to the ground.

If you are just considering adding ornamental grasses to your landscape, first get an overview of the different types available for your area. Mixing and matching several different shapes and sizes of grass adds interesting dimensions to the yard.

Types of Ornamental Grasses

Some ornamental grasses grow most actively in warm weather, while others shoot up during cooler weather. These have come to be known as warm season grasses and cool season grasses.

Warm season grasses turn brown and stop growing in the winter. They look dead but are only dormant, and you can count on them turning green in spring or early summer when the weather warms. They love the hot, dry midsummer weather and thrive during this period before slipping back into dormancy in late fall.

Cool season grasses do just the opposite. They like it cold, growing best when the temperatures are between near- freezing and 75 degrees F (23.8 C). During the midsummer heat, they brown and look dead, but when temperatures fall, they will get green again.

Invasive Ornamental Grasses to Avoid

If you’ve been warned that these decorative grasses are invasive, your sources are only partially wrong. Some ornamental grasses are invasive and should be avoided, since they can quickly take over your landscape as well as neighboring land. But the vast majority of ornamental grass species are not invasive.

Which ones are invasive? Invasive ornamental grasses vary among regions, so check with your state’s invasive plant listing before selecting grasses. A species that’s invasive in one locale may not be in another, given the climate and soil differences. Some invasive grasses to generally avoid include cheatgrass, running bamboo, fountain grass, and ribbon grass.

How to Care for Ornamental Grasses

Plant warm season grasses in spring and cool season grasses in either spring or autumn. It’s cheaper to use plugs or bare root plants for groundcovers or large area plantings. If you are only installing a few specimen grasses, use container plants. Plant so that the crown sits just above the soil surface.

You’ve probably selected your grasses in part for their drought tolerance. But during the first year, don’t stint on irrigation. All plants need water for the period after planting. Grasses become drought tolerant starting the second year.

Save money on fertilizer too, by not using it! Fertilizer is not only unnecessary for native grasses, it’s actually detrimental and can encourage invasiveness. Avoid rust diseases (orange or orange-brown patches on leaves) by maintaining good air circulation around the plants.

Over the longer term, all you will have to do is cut back the growth in late winter or early spring if the dead stems become a fire hazard. When the individual grass plants get so large that their center dies, divide the clumps.

Ornamental Grass Landscaping Tips

How much water should you provide your grasses the first year? Most grasses appreciate about an inch of supplemental water during the first few weeks of establishment. Water often if your soil is sandy, since the applied water will quickly pass through the soil.

How much should you cut back your ornamental grass plants every winter? Take them back to about 8 inches (20 cm) above the soil level.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do You Need to Cut Back Ornamental Grasses Every Year?

It’s a good idea to cut back ornamental grasses in late winter. That ensures healthy new growth in the new year.

What Is the Fastest Growing Ornamental Grass?

More than a few ornamental grasses grow fast. Unfortunately, many of the fastest-growing grasses are also considered invasive in some regions, so check with your local authorities at a nearby county extension service before planting. These include the Phyllostachys bamboo species that can grow to full height (15-50 feet) in one year; giant reed grass, feather reed grass, and hardy pampas grass.

Ornamental grasses have become exceedingly popular with home gardeners and landscapers, and for good reason. There are over 10,000 species that add movement and drama, all while giving a naturalized look to the landscape. Most grasses will stay self contained, but there are some species that are quite invasive. While ornamental grasses are highly sought after, you do want to avoid invasive ornamental grass varieties. So which ornamental grasses are invasive?

About Invasive Grasses

Some grasses, usually non-native grasses that are high-seeding or those with a running habit, can become invasive.

Bamboo

A prime example of this is bamboo. Bamboo comes in two types: running and clumping. Running bamboo spreads by underground rhizomes and can be highly invasive. The rampant spread of bamboo results in the crowding out of native species, both plant and animal. It should never be planted unless it’s installed in a deep container that the rhizomes cannot escape. Interestingly, digging up this type of bamboo to control it actually contributes to its spread.

Mexican Feather Grass

An example of an ornamental grass that’s invasive due to vigorous seed production is Mexican Feather grass. Recently added to California’s list of invasive plants, beautiful Mexican Feather grass has been an incredibly popular specimen sought after for its graceful fountain-like plumes.

However, Mexican Feather grass produces more than 10,000 seeds that are dispersed by wind, water, and animal feces. These seeds remain viable for more than four years, quadrupling its invasive potential. Like bamboo, it outcompetes native plant and animal species, crowding out pasture and native grasses and spreading into urban and agricultural areas, riparian zones, disrupted land, and forests.

Is Pampas Grass Invasive?

One of the most popular ornamental grasses is Pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana). Established Pampas grass is a sight to behold – individual clumping grasses that can attain heights of about 13 feet (3.9 m) adorned with white, feather plumes.

Pampas grass is stunning, especially when massed, but is nonetheless invasive in certain areas, specifically in Australia and New Zealand and along the West coast of the United States. It spreads not through rhizomes but seed distribution.

Not all Pampas grass is created equal however. If you love the look but want to avoid the invasiveness, avoid procuring any male plants. Cortaderia selloana produces both male and female blooms on separate plants so without the males to fertilize the females, viable seeds will not be produced and shed.

Which Ornamental Grasses are Invasive?

The following is not a comprehensive list of invasive ornamental grasses. Check with your local extension office, Master Gardener hotline or state invasive plant listing before planting questionable grasses. Note that nurseries may carry invasive plants for sale, often unbeknownst to them. Also, what is considered invasive in one area may not be in another so, again, the best bet is to do your research and check with the above organizations before purchasing or planting ornamental grasses. Invasive ornamental grasses include the following species:

• Cheatgrass
• Chinese Silver grass
• Cogon grass, Fountain grasses
• Giant reed
• Glyceria maxima
• Japanese stiltgrass
• Johnson grass
• Phragmites australis (Common Reed)
• Reed Canary or Ribbon grass
• Tripidium ravennae (hardy Pampas grass) are all invasive grasses

If you’re looking to create an area of privacy in your yard, look no further than an evergreen hedge row. Sure you can use a fence, wall, specialty or designed paneling to screen an area but, installing evergreen hedge shrubs gives it a more natural look that will blend in with the existing landscape. Plus, it’s often a less expensive option. Not sure what evergreen hedge plants to look for? Read on to learn about evergreens for hedges.

About Hedging Evergreens

Despite the name, all evergreens lose some leaves each year. Compared to deciduous plants, though, they still keep enough foliage to provide year round screening. There are essentially two types of evergreen: broadleaved and narrow leaved. Narrow leaved evergreens such as pines and junipers have needle-like foliage which stays on the tree for a couple of years more, while broadleaved types lose older leaves during the winter or early spring.

All evergreens require good soil drainage, but broadleaved varieties need more consistent soil moisture than narrow leaved evergreens. Broadleaved varieties also need more protection from cold, dry winds and winter sun than narrow leaved evergreens.

Screening evergreens should generally mature at about shoulder height with dense foliage and low branching habits. In some areas, a mix of evergreens and deciduous plants make for a more natural looking screen than a simple row of evergreen shrubs or trees.

Considerations before Purchasing Evergreen Hedge Plants

The first thing to consider when planning an evergreen hedge is the location. Consider the mature size of the plants. Broadleaved plants do best when in a protected east or northern exposure with consistent soil moisture, while narrow leaved evergreens are more resilient and less picky about site conditions.

In any case good drainage and loose aerated soil is important. This means that dense, mostly clay soil should be amended with a course of organic material prior to planting.

The amount of maintenance a plant requires should also be considered. If you want a military row of precisely pruned evergreens, then prepare for more maintenance than with a more unruly natural look composed of broadleaved evergreens and deciduous plantings.

Types of Evergreen Hedge Plants and Shrubs

The most common evergreen hedge plant is boxwood. Deer tolerant, it is a favorite in formal gardens. Hardy to USDA zone 5, boxwood does best when in a sheltered location in either sun or shade.

One of the more common upright narrow leaved evergreens suited for screening is the arborvitae. Arborvitae work well in narrow spaces and grow best in full sun. Another evergreen suited for narrow spaces is the columnar Japanese plum yew. This evergreen will thrive in sun or shade and is fairly deer resistant.

Another upright with dark green, glossy leaves is cleyera (Temstroemia gymnathera). Extremely adaptable, cleyera is both drought tolerant and deer resistant.

Other evergreen trees suitable for screening include white fir, Japanese Cryptomeria, Leland cypress, many varieties of holly, Chinese and Rocky Mountain juniper, Eastern red cedar, Sweet Bay or Southern magnolia, Eastern white pine, Cherry laurel, and Canadian or Carolina hemlock.

Flowering Evergreen Plants for Hedges

Add in some color with flowering hedge plants such as California lilac (Ceanothus), hedge germander, ‘Firethorn’ Pyracantha coccinea and Pittosporum tobira. Azalea, rhododendron, camellia, gardenia, pieris, daphne will also brighten up a hedged area.

Variegated shrubs such as Japanese pittosporum and wintercreeper also add a pop of color and look especially nice when combined with other broadleaf and narrow leaf evergreens.

Pastel green plants evoke a calming response in the garden. To capitalize on that fact, many designers create stunning landscapes with just one color – green. It doesn’t have to be just one color of green either. Varying shades of green contrast nicely. Lightly colored foliage plants such as the many options with heuchera or a pink bromeliad add charm and a quiet feel to their surroundings.

Sit back and relax while we take a look at light green foliage plants and pretty pastels.

Pastel Plants with Pretty, Pale Foliage

If you want to add a serene feel to your garden, design with soothing greens and delicate pastels. For a shaded area, you can’t go wrong with hostas that are shades of green and blue. To extend the blue plantings try these hostas: ‘Siebold,’ ‘Elegans,’ ‘Francis Williams,’ ‘Krossa Regal,’ and ‘Helen Doriot.’ To the front of the border add lots of Japanese painted fern for a monochromatic color scheme and serene feel. Or try Japanese painted fern with the soft, peachy tones of 'Siren’s Song Orange Delight' heuchera for a pastel and calming look.

In a partly sunny area, choose lightly colored shrubs such as dappled willow with evergreens such as ‘Green Gem’ boxwood or ‘Elf’ mountain laurel.

Here are pastel plants to try:

• Siebold Hosta (Hosta sieboldiana) – Large hosta with heart shaped, bluish green leaves. Full to part shade. Two to three feet tall (61-91 cm.), up to a 4 foot (1 m.) spread. Hardiness zones 3 through 8.
• Japanese Painted Fern (Athyrium niponicum 'Pictum') – Low growing stature with silver edged, blue-green fronds and a purplish midrib. 18 to 24 inches (46-61 cm.) tall and wide. Full to part shade. Hardiness zones 4 through 8.
• Cotton Candy Bromeliad (Neoregelia 'Cotton Candy') – In warm climates this pink, tropical epiphyte can be grown outside. For cooler climates, plant in containers that can overwinter indoors. 6 to 10 inches (15-25 cm.) tall, 10 to 12 inches (25-31 cm.) wide. Full to part shade. Hardiness zones 9 through 11.
• Siren’s Song Orange Delight Heuchera (Heuchera 'TNHEUSSOD') – Soft, peachy tones add warmth to a shady garden. Filtered sun. 18 inches (46 cm.) tall, 15 inches (38 cm.) wide. Hardiness zones 4 through 9.
• Flamingo Dappled Willow (Salix integra 'Flamingo') - Pink, white, and apple green variegated foliage on easy-to-care-for deciduous shrub. Full to part sun. Hardiness zones 4 through 10.

Did you know that fern hardiness extends year-round in some places? Fern cold hardiness varies depending on your climate zone, but in many areas, you can grow varieties that provide year-round, evergreen foliage.

About Cold Tolerant Ferns

Ferns are beloved shade plants for many gardeners. Unlike most garden plants, ferns do not produce flowers. They are a truly ancient type of plant that has been around for hundreds of millions of years, reproducing through spores rather than seeds.

In the garden, ferns work well in shady areas where you may struggle to grow other plants. They provide interesting, feathery foliage that gives a tropical feel no matter what your local climate is.

Like all ferns, these hardier types prefer partial shade and moist. Rich, organic, and slightly acidic soil is best for most ferns, but there is some variety in soil type preferences.

Because hardy ferns will grow longer in your garden, it’s particularly important to be sure you have the right conditions for the specific ferns you choose. Make sure you understand a fern’s needs before planting it.

Hardy Ferns

When it comes to ferns, cold hardy means something different depending on where you live. If you garden in zones 7 and warmer, these species and fern varieties should give you evergreen foliage:

• Christmas fern - Native to the southern U.S., this fern has leathery, dark fronds that grow about two to three feet high (0.6 to 0.9 m.) and wider than it grows tall. It can tolerate drier soil than some ferns and prefers more shade.
• Southern maidenhair fern - These ferns are native to the south. They grow about 12 to 24 inches (30 to 60 cm.) tall and have yellowish-green, rounded leaves on the wiry fronds. They need constant moisture in the soil and full to partial shade.
• Ebony spleenwort - This is a smaller native species, not growing much more than 20 inches (50 cm.) tall and with dark green fronds. This is a good option for drier areas in the garden, as it does not like wet soil.
• Hay scented fern - As the name suggests, this fern, when crushed, smells of freshly mown hay. It tolerates some drought conditions and grows 18 to 30 inches (46 to 76 cm.) tall. It has delicate, bright green fronds.
• Holly fern - Holly fern has gloss, dark green fronds, a lot like its namesake plant. Also like hollies, they are evergreen in their native southern range. These ferns do not tolerate drought well, so water during dry conditions.
• Southern wood fern - For a real statement, choose this tall variety that can grow up to four feet (1.2 m.). Southern wood fern is evergreen in its native south where it grows in along streams and in marshy areas. Save this one for wet, shady spots in your garden.
• Male fern - Male fern is native in the south and has a classic, tall, vase-like growth habit. It can grow as tall as five feet (1.5 m.) and needs consistent moisture.
• Japanese painted fern - Not native to North America, this is still a striking beauty in the winter garden. Diminutive in size, it only grows 10 to 15 inches (25 to 38 cm.) tall. What makes Japanese painted fern so stunning is the coloring, which includes silver-gray, green, and rich burgundy.
• Japanese tassel fern - This evergreen species has an upright growth habit, reaching up to three feet (0.9 m.). The leaves are dark and particularly lacy and delicate. Grow in light to full shade with steady moisture in the soil.
• Korean rock fern - Like the tassel fern, this species has feathery, dark green fronds, but it is shorter, growing only to about 12 inches (30 cm.).

Keep in mind that fern cold hardiness is relative. Check each type against your climate zone to be sure it will grow year-round in your garden.

On average, potted plants are expected to live about 2 to 5 years, which makes the Eastern Cape giant cycad (Encephalartos altensteinii) at the Kew gardens in London so spectacular. Deemed the oldest container plant in the world, this South African native arrived at Kew in 1775.

What is an Eastern Cape Giant Cycad?

Looking like a cross between a tree and a fern, Cycads are some of the oldest living flora species on the planet. The crown is made up of whorls of leathery, palm-like leaves. The non-branching trunk is formed as the plant grows and sheds leaves. The specimen at Kew is over 13 feet tall (4 m.). Its trunk leans to the side and must be braced as it can no longer support the weight of itself.

The Cycad genus has been around since the age of dinosaurs. Once an abundant and widespread plant, all species of Cycads are classified as vulnerable. Some are also listed on Appendix 1 of CITES. Trade of these species is only permitted under exceptional circumstances.

Like most plants in the genus, the Eastern Cape giant cycad is a slow-grower. The specimen at Kew averages 1 inch (2.5 cm.) of growth per year. In lieu of flowers, cycads produce cones, many of which are quite decorative. In the almost 250 years it has been at Kew, the oldest potted plant has only produced one cone.

It should be noted that in the Cycad genus, the male and female reproductive organs are on separate plants. Beetles and small bees are the most common pollinators of the cones. After ripening, the cone opens to reveal large seeds.

Visiting the Oldest Pot-Plant

As one of London's most popular attractions, the Kew Gardens house more than 50,000 different plants on 300 acres (121 ha). Visitors can explore the gardens on foot or take the land train to five key destinations on the property. There is an admission fee. To see everything these botanical gardens have to offer, plan on at least a three to four hour stay.

The cycad at Kew is located in the southern end of the Palm House. This humongous glass structure was built in 1844 to house tropical and subtropical plants. The hot, humid environment inside the Palm House is similar to the climate in a rainforest and can be a bit uncomfortable during the summer months.

Growing Cycads as Houseplants

If you can't visit the Kew Gardens, you can still enjoy Cycad houseplants. One of the most common species is the Sago Palm (Cycas revoluta). Native to southeastern Japan, these attractive plants have leathery green frond-like leaves and a shaggy, oval trunk.

Sago palms grow best in bright light and moderate to dry soil. They don't mind being rootbound, but they will need a little extra water when actively growing. These Cycads prefer a humid environment like a bathroom. In dryer rooms, mist the leaves or place the pot on a bed of wet stones.

Like other Cycads, Sago Palms are dioecious and can take 15 to 20 years to produce either male or female cones. A faster method of propagation is to remove and pot the pups when they appear around the base of the plant. Be sure to use gloves as Sago Palms are poisonous.

Sago Palms are low-maintenance plants. Nonetheless, if you properly care for a Sago Palm, in another 250 years you could be known as the person who once owned the oldest houseplant in the world.

The creation of your own fresh flower arrangement is a fun and exciting garden project. Even the smallest of cutting gardens can bring color and vibrancy to jars and vases. While it is important to plant several varieties of focal flower, it is often easy to overlook the vital role that filler and foliage plants play in the making of home-grown floral arrangements. With the addition of various shades of dark green, bouquets created from garden flowers can have a polished and professional look. Below, we will explore some of the more common foliage options for those who wish to design stunning green floral arrangements. 

Dark Green Bouquets and Floral Arrangements

1. Boxwood - Arches, centerpieces, and dark green wedding bouquets often make use of boxwood. This evergreen shrub is frequently found growing in the home landscape, as it is prized for its glossy foliage. Stems of boxwood can be trimmed and used to add texture to flower arrangements throughout the entire growing season. Boxwood stems also have an exceptional vase life. 
2. Camellia - Various types of camellias are also among the best producers of dark green foliage for bouquets. Like boxwood, camellia branches are usually available year-round. This makes them a popular choice for use in holiday and winter home décor. 
3. Eucalyptus - Without doubt, eucalyptus is among the most popular dark green leaves for flower arrangements. Though tender to frost, most fast growing eucalyptus types can be grown in cutting gardens as an annual. Leaf size, shape, and form may vary between cultivars. Those planning to grow eucalyptus in the garden should order plants or seeds early, as most varieties sell out exceptionally quickly. Common varieties for cut flower gardens include ‘Silver Dollar,’ ‘Willow,’ and ‘Lemon Bush.’ 
4. Fern - Hybrid ferns, specifically bred for use in the cut flower industry, are a good choice for those looking to add shades of dark green to arrangements. Types of ferns can vary, but generally grow in the same fan-like form. Most cultivars will behave as a perennial in shaded landscapes. 
5. Magnolia - The leaves of magnolia trees can offer dramatic appeal to flower vases and centerpieces. The deep green color is often complimented by darker shades of brown or tan. Magnolia is also popular when used for crafting and home décor projects like wreaths and garlands.

Gardeners often choose variegated leaves to spice up a bed and add visual interest. Foliage on some plants act as the star and complement the flowers of other plants in the bed. But why not have both? These variegated plants give you both pretty blooms and exciting foliage. 

Variegated Hydrangea

Hydrangea is a small-medium flowering, ornamental shrub with large clusters of four-petalled flowers. It grows well in zones 6 through 9 and is prized for its showy flowers that can range from deep magenta or blue to palest green and white. 

Most hydrangeas have solid green leaves, but this variegated type has foliage as striking as its blooms. They are bright green with white margins that perfectly set off pink-white flowers. 

Variegated Sedum

Also known as stonecrop, sedum is a popular flowering perennial that grows well in most areas of the U.S. Sedum is a succulent with fleshy leaves and stems, and clusters of tiny flowers in a range of colors. 

Variegated sedum is unique for its multicolored foliage. While there are many, many varieties of sedum, this is one of very few with variegation. The leaves are a grayish-green with white margins that turn blush pink as the weather cools. 

Harlequin Butterfly Bush

Gardeners love butterfly bush for its ability to attract pollinators. This is a fast-growing shrub that does well in zones 6 through 9 and stays evergreen in its warmer range. The flowers are spike-shaped clusters of small lavender, purple, pink, or white blooms. 

The flowers on the harlequin variety are a deep reddish-pink. The leaves are long and narrow like other types, but rather than solid green, they are light green with pale yellow margins. 

Sunstruck Oxeye Sunflower

Even among plants with variegated leaves, this sunflower is unique. The Sunstruck cultivar of Heliopsis helianthoides is much smaller than other types. It grows rapidly to a little over a foot (30 cm.) tall. 

The small, cheerful yellow flowers on this small sunflower are complemented by unusual oblong leaves. They are creamy white with deep green veining, giving them a shimmering appearance that really stands out in a flower bed. 

Phlox paniculata Becky Towe

Becky Towe is a cultivar of garden phlox, a tall, clump forming plant with pretty, delicate flowers in shades of pink, lavender, and white. This is a wildflower native to many areas of the U.S.

A cultivar of native phlox, Becky Towe has unique variegation on its leaves. They are green with golden variegation, which tones down to a butter yellow as the flowers bloom. Also unique to this cultivar is the deep salmon color of the flowers.

Asplenium bulbiferum, Mother Fern or Mother Spleenwort, is a fern native to New Zealand that is commonly sold as an indoor houseplant. Of the Spleenwort family of ferns based on the belief that the plant treats medical ailments pertaining to the spleen, A. bulbiferum is a lovely fern variety. The following contains information on Mother Fern indoor care and propagation. 

Mother Fern Houseplant

In its native New Zealand, Mother Fern is eaten by the Maori, wherein young fronds are collected and eaten raw or cooked like a vegetable.

Mother Fern houseplant has brilliantly green, finely serrated fronds which emerge from a solitary crown. The resulting foliage develops into a lush, feathery evergreen arch perfect for containers and hanging baskets. 

Mother Fern Propagation

Producing neither flowers nor fruit, Mother Fern reproduces instead vegetatively; offsets grow and then fall from the mother plant to grow into new plants; however, most plants sold as Mother Fern houseplants are the sterile hybrid A. xlucrosum. 

Mother Fern Indoor Care

Indoors, Mother Fern prefers bright but indirect light and well-draining, moist, acidic soil comprised of equal parts loam, leaf mulch, sand, and charcoal. 

Mother Fern should be watered moderately during the growing season and sparingly over the winter months. During the growing season, apply a balanced liquid fertilizer at half strength monthly.

Mother Fern Care Outdoors

In areas where Mother Fern can be grown outside, select a shaded, sheltered are for growth, under an awning, in northern exposure, or in shaded and woodland gardens. Grow Mother Fern in humus-rich, moist, and well-draining soil. 

Both indoors and out, Mother Fern is generally pest free although it may be prone to mealybug and scale. Remove dead or damaged fronds. 

Leaves are generally green because they contain green chlorophyll to perform photosynthesis. In plants with unique colors, those pigments block or dilute the green. They are rare in nature but do occur. Breeders have also created pink-leaf plants to meet demand for more exotic house and garden plants.

1. Tricolor Beech – A Tree with Pink Leaves 

European tricolor beech is a medium-sized tree, growing up to 35 feet (10.7 m.) tall and 25 feet (7.6 m.) wide. It is cold hardy through zone 4 and tolerates urban conditions. 

The foliage on this beech tree is a deep, purplish green with pale pink to rose margins and striking variegation between the two colors. It thrives in partial sun and cooler, wetter conditions. This is a striking landscaping tree for a garden focal point. 

2. Weigela My Monet – A Bush with Pink Leaves

Weigela shrubs are related to honeysuckle and bloom profusely. This dwarf variety, My Monet, blooms in summer and only grows up to about two feet (0.6 m) tall at most. It’s a good shrub for edging and borders. You can also grow it in masses in beds or in containers. 

The name My Monet describes its painterly leaves. The foliage is striking and variegated with green and pink. If you grow this shrub in the shade, the pink will be very light, almost cream. In full sun, the edges of the leaves are fully pink. 

3. Heuchera Midnight Rose – A Dark and Pink Variegated Plant

Heuchera, or coral bells, is a beloved perennial that comes in numerous varieties. Easy to grow, coral bells produce a low clump of leaves and tall flower stalks in spring. They come in many colors, including variations on pink. 

Midnight Rose has dark, nearly black leaves, blotched with pink. The pink spots start out bright and deep in spring and lighten to a creamy pink in summer. They grow in zones 4 through 9 and prefer full or partial sun. 

4. Cherry Tart Sedum – Deep Pink Groundcover

This SunSparkler sedum, or stonecrop, is deep reddish-pink in color. Like many other sedums, this variety grows low to the ground, only about six inches (15 cm) tall. It has fleshy, succulent leaves and blooms pink in late summer. 

Use Cherry Tart against lighter-colored plants for a striking counterpoint. It can grow in partial shade or full sun, has low water needs, and can tolerate some drought and hot conditions. 

5. Brazilian Red Hots – For Hot Climates

Unlike the other plants on this list, this variety of Joseph’s Coat is only hardy to USDA zone 9. It prefers hot and humid conditions and will grow in sun or partial shade with moist soil. 

Red Hots gets its name from the brightly-colored leaves. The foliage is variegated with deep red and hot pink. The fall flowers are not spectacular. This is a low shrub to grow for its outstanding foliage. 

Fern houseplants lend a lush, tropical feel to an indoor space. They set off flowering plants nicely, add texture, and have interesting foliage. Here are some beautiful varieties well-suited to indoor growing. 

How to Grow Ferns Indoors

Before choosing among the many types of ferns for your next houseplant, it’s important to understand what they need to thrive inside. Most ferns grown as houseplants come from the tropics, so they like indirect light, warmth, and humidity. 

All ferns should grow in containers with good drainage. When watering a fern indoors, know the variety’s specific needs. Most ferns like moist soil, but some, like the Boston fern, do best when the top of the soil just dries out before the next watering. 

Tropical ferns need humidity, which can be a problem inside in the winter. Use a mister or a pebble tray to create a more humid environment around your ferns. Ferns don’t need full sunlight, so place your plants near a north or east window. 

Top Fern Houseplant Varieties

These are some types of ferns ideal for growing indoors: 

1. Boston. Boston fern is a classic houseplant with pretty feathered fronds. You can find several cultivars that vary in size, have more interesting textures, and that are either upright or trailing. 
2. Bird’s nest. This unique fern grows reliably indoors. Bird’s nest fern doesn’t have the feathery fronds of most ferns. The fronds are long, wide, and have wavy edges. 
3. Rabbit’s foot. The fuzzy, brown rhizomes give rabbit’s foot fern its name. They grow over the edge of the container and the fronds are delicate and lacy. To get the best view of both, use a hanging container. 
4. Mother. Share this one with friends. The name mother fern comes from the fact that it grows small “babies” on the larger fronds. You can pick them to propagate a new plant. 
5. Staghorn. This unique fern is an epiphyte, so it requires an appropriate medium, like a mixture of peat and sphagnum moss. Staghorn fern requires a lot of humidity, but with the right conditions will grow slowly into a large plant. This is advanced-level fern growing, so you may want to try easier types first. 
6. Cretan brake. Place this fern in a warm spot, near a radiator, for instance. It also needs a lot of humidity. Cretan brake fern will reward you with pretty, variegated fronds. 
7. Button. Choose a button fern for small spaces. It only grows about 12 to 18 inches (31-46 cm.) and has round, button-like leaves. 
8. Holly. The holly fern may not be easy to find, but it is unique among ferns for preferring drier, cooler conditions. This makes it an ideal houseplant if you can get it. 
9. Asparagus. While not a true fern, asparagus fern does resemble one with its feathery leaves. If you have a bright, sunny window, asparagus fern will take it. 

Sedge grasses are fine choices for adding a range of colors and textures to a garden. Red rooster sedge grass is one variety of Carex buchananii that provides a stunning copper red color. Native to New Zealand, this pretty grass does well in USDA zones 7 through 9 and provides year-round color and visual interest in these areas. 

What is Red Rooster Leatherleaf Sedge? 

Red rooster is a cultivar of the sedge species Carex buchananii. Also known as red rooster leatherleaf sedge, it comes from New Zealand where it grows in the mountains, forests, and even along rivers and beaches. 

This is an easy grass to grow, which along with its unique color has made it a popular ornamental grass choice in many gardens. Red rooster sedge grass grows in clumps of tight leaves up to 24 inches (61 cm.) high. 

What makes Red rooster really special is its color. Described by some as copper or others as bronze, what you’ll get is a reddish brown grass that is truly unique. The grass keeps its color all year long as well. Use this sedge grass in mass plantings, along borders, or even in containers. It looks best contrasted with green plants. 

How to Grow Red Rooster Sedge

Red rooster sedge care is easy, another major attraction to choosing this grass for your garden. Choose a spot with full sun or only partial shade. The soil type is not important as long as it drains well. You should keep the soil slightly moist but tending toward dry. Normal rainfall is usually adequate for this grass. 

The best time for red rooster sedge pruning is very early spring, before there is too much new growth. Other than this yearly trim your Red rooster sedge grass won’t need much maintenance or care from you. Just let it grow and under good conditions it should keep coming back every spring for several years.

Many gardeners add color to their landscape with blooming annuals or perennials, but another way to spice up the garden is by incorporating dark red foliage plants. Certainly there aren't as many red leaf plants as their green leaved relatives, but there are plenty of red foliage perennials and shrubs to use as accents or primary pops of color in the garden. 

About Red Leaf Plants

The color of red foliage plants is due to the pigment anthocyanin. Anthocyanin absorbs green and yellow light which makes them appear red (or purple) to the human eye. Red foliage plants still photosynthesize, and thus contain chlorophyll which is responsible for the green coloration of most foliage, but the anthocyanin masks the green hues. 

Red Foliage Perennials Varieties

1. Sweetspire ‘Henry’s Garnet’ (Itea virginica) is a red foliage perennial shrub that is suited to USDA zones 6-10. Primarily a deciduous shrub, this beauty flaunts glossy burgundy leaves year round on graceful, arching branches that may grow up to 3-4 feet (about a meter) in length and 4-6 feet (1-2 m.) across. In the spring, Sweetspire produces aromatic blooms. 
2. If you are looking for more of a red leaf tree, the gorgeous Grace smoke tree is an excellent selection. Grace smoke tree produces unique feather plumes in varying shades of red depending upon the season for multi-season interest. This smoke tree does well in rocky and infertile zones in USDA zones 4-8. 
3. Another option for a red foliage perennial shrub is Coryus avellana ‘Red Dragon’ or European fig, hazelnut or cobnut. ‘Red Dragon’ is a grafted specimen notable for its purple leaf color and edible nuts. To maintain ‘Red Dragon’ and prevent thicket formation, prune out any root suckers and any stems that have lost their purple leaf color or twisting form. C. avellana can be grown in full sun to partial shade in moist, rich, well-draining soil. 

Additional Red Foliage Plant Options

1. Heuchera is a low growing, clumping perennial available in a multitude of colors. The cultivar ‘Fire Chief’ is multi-blooming, choral bell hybrid bred for its wine red leaves. This dark red foliage plant requires a shaded area with rich, well-draining soil and a medium amount of irrigation. Remove spent blooms to encourage flowering and mulch around the plant in cooler winter climates. 
2. Lastly, the gorgeous Rex begonia ‘Ruby Slippers’ is a real eye catcher with large, glossy, ruby red foliage accented with a black center and a ruffle of black around the edges of the leaves. Rex begonias can be used as houseplants or in shaded areas of the garden. Can be grown as a perennial in mild regions. 

Siberian melic altissima is an ornamental grass with striking, deep purple panicles in summer. Use this grass for borders, cottage gardens, meadows, as a focal point, or anchor in a mixed bed with flowers. This grass is easy to grow and requires little maintenance. 

What is Siberian Melic? 

Siberian melic grass is an ornamental grass with the scientific name Melica altissima. Native to Siberia, this pretty grass adapts well to many other areas and makes a nice decorative accent or focal point in beds with flowers. 

The perennial grass grows in attractive, neat clumps as tall as five feet (1.5 m.) by the second season in the garden. Each clump is approximately 20 inches (51 cm.) wide. The leaves of Siberian melic are light green, long, and thin. The stems arch and produce panicles with flowering spikes in the summer. 

What is most striking about Siberian melic is the color of the flowers. They are a deep reddish purple and glossy. They look lovely in a garden bed or border, but the flower spikes are also great additions to cut arrangements. Although not native to the US, Siberian melica attracts birds to the seeds as a food source. 

Growing Siberian Melic

You can grow Siberian melic easily in USDA zones 4 through 8. You can grow it from seed or from transplants if you can find it at your local garden center. Full sun is ideal for Siberian melic, but it will be fine in partial shade. The soil does not need to be particularly fertile but should drain well. 

Once established, Siberian melic care requirements are low. It may need some watering to get established and during droughts but otherwise will grow well with little intervention. Keep the grass in place in the fall for visual interest in the winter garden. Trim the old foliage back in early spring as new growth appears. You can propagate Siberian melic by division in spring.

One of the most impactful shade plants is the Hosta. Growing Hostas in Washington is a marvelous partnership. Western Washington, with its coastal climate, makes a perfect location for these shade lovers, but even in the hotter eastern side, you can enjoy the gorgeous foliage. You just have to make sure Hostas in the northwest are in a shady to semi-shady location in freely draining soil. 

The Plantain Lily, or Hosta, is one of those foliage plants that brightens dark corners and enlivens the landscape with its flower displays. Pacific Northwest Hostas are game changers for gardeners with heavy shade. They are reliable perennials that grow well in Washington; Oregon Hostas are scene stealers, as well. 

Hostas, Pacific Northwest Winners

If you are looking for a no-nonsense shade loving plant, consider Hostas in the northwest. The plants spring from tubers that are reliably hardy in the northwest part of the United States. Their most outstanding feature is the large leaves that can sport variegation in hues of green, bluish green, gold, and white. Once they have grown new leaves after a winter rest, you can also expect lily-like purple flowers, soaring above the huge foliage. The plants are very tolerant, preferring shade to partial shade, but they can also thrive in sun where some protection from the hottest rays is available. Pacific Northwest Hostas do need consistent moisture for optimal health. However, with little intervention, in the right soil and location, these beauties will brighten your landscape for years. 

Hosta Information

Oregon Hostas, as well as Hostas in Washington are outstanding shade plants. There are literally thousands of varieties from which to choose. Some can get many feet in height (.91 m), with a few varieties actually double in size. 

There are also diminutive varieties that make great fillers in a low light area. They pair well with similar care plants such as Astilbe, Epimedium, ferns, and other shade lovers. Hostas will even perform nicely in containers. Just remember that they like to be kept moist, although not soggy. If you want a giant specimen, consider Empress Wu, a 4 foot (1.22 m) tall glory. Sweet little Blue Mouse Ears is a bright example of the smaller varieties. And in between there are hundreds from which to choose. 

Tips on Growing Hosta

• Hostas are relatively easy to grow. 
• They need really rich soil, but it must be freely draining. The tubers will not thrive if they are in boggy soil. 
• Some varieties are more sun tolerant than others, so be sure to check plant tags for light tolerance. 
• Well rotted manure or slow release fertilizer is a good idea in early spring when the foliage begins to appear. 
• Give the plants 1-2 inches ( 2.54-5.08 cm) of water per week, depending upon soil type. 
• Use slug prevention to avoid young leaf damage. Some diatomaceous earth around the plants is a good organic option. 
• Mulch around plants to protect the tubers in winter. 
• You can divide Hosta, preferably in spring. Keep divisions moist until they establish.

There are many fountain grass cultivars, all which reside in the grass genus Pennisetum. Some types of fountain grass are grown for forage and/or biofuel, while others are grown for their ornamental attributes. Varieties of fountain grass vary in their hardiness. Some fountain grass varieties are only hardy to USDA zones 4 or 5 while others thrive up to zone 10. With such an array of fountain grass to choose from there is likely one suitable for your region. 

About Varieties of Fountain Grass

Fountain grass plants (Pennisetum alopecuroides) are native to Eastern Asia and Australia where they are found growing along streams, in meadows, and open woods. Fountain grass plants have deep green, clumping foliage that initially grows upright but as the plant matures, begins to gracefully arch resembling a spouting fountain. 

Plants attain a height of 12-48 inches (30 cm. to just over a meter) depending upon the fountain grass cultivar. Each fountain grass variety varies in the length and width of its leaves, but all are long, tapering, and minutely serrated. 

The swaying foliage adds movement and drama to the landscape during the growing season and thereafter. During the summer months showy white to pink, to purple, to copper flower spikes are produced. In the fall, the foliage turns an orange/bronze tone fading to a dull tan during the winter months. Provided the flower stalks are not cut they still provide winter interest. 

How to Grow Fountain Grass Cultivars

All varieties of fountain grass are warm season grasses. Depending upon the fountain grass variety, they may be grown as annuals or survive as perennials in warmer climates. Plant or sow seeds for the types of fountain grass adapted for your region in full sun. Fountain grass plants are not finicky regarding soil although dry, well-draining soil is preferred. 

Once established, the plants are quite drought tolerant, although the tips of the foliage may dry and brown. Fountain grass varieties are only somewhat hardy in the northern regions of zone 5 so expect the crown to die back in some cases during the winter. 

Fountain Grass Cultivars

With few pest problems and deer resistance, not to mention the sheer variety of fountain grass cultivars, there’s bound to be a Pennistetum for you. The following information is in regard to some types of fountain grass but is by no means a comprehensive list. 

‘Cassian’ is named for the German horticulturist Cassian Schmidt is similar in size to the common ‘Hameln’ with dusky brown blooms and gorgeous gilded red tinted foliage in the fall. It is suited to zones 5 and 6. 

‘Fox Trot’ is taller than ‘Cassian’ with rosy to black blooms. It is said to be hardy to USDA zone 4 although it tends to suffer winter dieback in some areas. 

The aforementioned ‘Hameln’ is one of the hardiest (and most common) of the varieties of fountain grasses, hardy to zone 5 but often grown in zone 4 landscapes. It is a compact variety that grows 18-24 inches (46-61 cm.) tall with brilliantly green foliage and silvery-white blooms. It blooms a couple weeks earlier than most other fountain grass plants and is less apt to re-sow itself as well. 

Additional Fountain Grass Varieties

‘Little Bunny’ is a relatively tiny variety at only around a foot tall that blooms fairly consistently from midsummer through fall. As the name suggests, the small inflorescences look much like bunny tails. 

‘Little Honey’ is a variegated version of ‘Little Bunny’ albeit much smaller. It has green leaves outlined in white with tan inflorescent plumes that reach 6-12 inches (15-30 cm.). Due to its smaller stature, it needs to be placed in an area where it can be seen such as in a rock garden.

Black fountain grass (‘Moudry’) isn’t exactly black but more a deep maroon. The dark blooms appear later in the season (3-5 weeks later) than other fountain grass cultivars but is a vigorous grower with wide leaves and a multitude of upright inflorescences. It seeds readily in warm climes and it hardy to zone 6. 

‘National Arboretum’ is similar to ‘Moudry’ with dark, almost black blooms late in the season. It is, however, better flowering than ‘Moudry.’ It also tends to self-sow and is hardy to zone 6, maybe even zone 5. 

‘Redhead’ has big burgundy inflorescences and is derived from ‘National Arboretum’ although it blooms earlier. 

‘Weserbergland’ is yet another dwarf variety of fountain grass that grows to only two to three feet (half to just under a meter) in height.

Silver feather maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Silberfeder’) is a striking plant with striped foliage and large, feathery plumes of silvery-pink in summer that morph to glowing white seed heads in autumn. 

Also known as silberfeder grass, this plant adds beauty and interest to the landscape all year. As an added bonus, it is deer and rabbit resistant.

While silver feather grass plant is a beautiful focal point, it is a versatile, ornamental grass that works well in large beds, or as hedges or privacy screens. Some gardeners like to surround silberfeder grass with tulips and other bulbs that bloom in early spring while the grass is still dormant. 

Silver feather maiden grass is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 9. 

Read on to learn more about growing and caring for silberfeder feather grass plant. 

Tips on Silver Feather Grass Care

Provide plenty of growing space. Silberfeder silver feather grass can reach mature heights of 7 to 8 feet (2 to 2.5 m.), and widths of 4 to 6 feet (1 to 2 m.). 

Silver feather grass performs best in a sunny spot. This versatile plant is adaptable to most well-drained soil types, and even tolerates clay, sand, and chalk. Silberfeder grass withstands occasional wetness, but not soggy, soil. It is drought-tolerant once established. 

Cut silver feather grass back in spring, just before new growth appears. Spring is also the best time to divide a crowded grass plant, or if you want to propagate new plants. The plant should be divided any time it becomes too large or dies out in the center.

Fertilize your silver feather grass plant in spring, using a balanced fertilizer. However, don’t fertilize the first spring when the roots are settling in.

Notes on Silver Feather Maiden Grass Invasiveness and Flammability 

It’s important to mention that silver feather maiden grass may be invasive in some areas. In general, it’s well-behaved in the west and midwest, but may be a bully in the northeastern states.

Silberfeder grass may be flammable and shouldn’t be planted too close to buildings.

Landscaping difficult to manage areas of the yard can be quite challenging. Among the most common issues related to these spaces are those relating to light, soil fertility, and drainage. Gardeners first need to conduct careful research regarding certain plants’ ability to withstand these specific conditions within flower beds. Those with heavy clay soils may find it especially difficult to establish thriving borders. Fortunately, several robust and adaptable species of ornamental plants are available. Ornamental grasses are just one example of such plants. 

Ornamental Grass for Clay Soil

The use of ornamental grasses in the landscape has gained quite a bit of popularity among homeowners in recent years. Though the plants do not generally produce the bright and colorful flowers so commonly associated with flower beds, ornamental varieties of grass have much to offer. 

Ornamental grass in clay soil also provides a great source of year-round interest in the landscape due its wide array of unique textures. Furthermore, these easy to grow ornamental grasses can serve as a valuable habitat for native wildlife in the garden. 

Will Ornamental Grass Grow in Clay Soil?

When it comes to growing ornamental grass, clay soil is seldom an issue. In fact, many species of ornamental grass for clay soil are able to withstand harsh growing conditions, such as excessively wet soil and/or cold temperatures. 

How to Grow Grass in Clay

Learning how to grow grass in clay is quite similar to growing in other soil types. While many native species of grass can be grown from seed, most ornamental types used in the landscape are planted from specific cultivars which can be found at local garden centers or specialty plant nurseries. Though these plants are generally hardy, gardeners will still need to consider growth requirements for the various types of ornamental grass. This includes special attention to both moisture requirements and hours of sunlight needed. 

When choosing ornamental grass for clay soil, always take into account the plants’ size at maturity. While some species remain quite small, other types may grow to reach great heights. 

At planting time, make certain to consider proximity to sidewalks, buildings, and other structures. Like most perennials, ornamental grass in clay soil may need to be divided after several seasons in order to keep the landscape looking neat and tidy. 

Sheep grass plants are native to Europe but widely planted in North America. They are an important part of wild grass plains and are used as forage for livestock. Sheep fescue grass is drought tolerant, slow growing, and thrives in infertile soil. A characteristic of fescues is that they are a tufted perennial with easy adaptive qualities. Sheep grass in gardens needs to be carefully managed to minimize pop up plants from self-sowing and control where it grows.

About Sheep Fescue Grass

Sheep fescue growing is generally for agricultural and livestock purposes. As an ornamental grass, it lacks elegance but is excellent used in a wild meadow landscape scheme. It can provide food and cover for birds and other animals. Best of all caring for sheep grass is simple and easy. This is a hardy, self-sustaining plant. 

Sheep grass plants are true grasses in the family Poaceae. The plant is considered a cool season grass and has superior tolerance to different soils, drought, and cold. The dwarf bunchgrass has narrow, semi-erect blades. Plants can grow up to 12 inches (31 cm.) tall. Sheep grass produces dense panicles which develop into narrow seeds. Seeds are windborne and the plant is a hermaphrodite and self-seeds readily. In the wild it is found in both acidic and alkaline soil, in sun, or even shade. In North America it is used in mountains, open forests, and foothills from Alaska to New Mexico. 

Tips on Sheep Fescue Growing

You may sow this grass anytime of the year provided soil is workable. It is slow growing and is generally sown with a ground cover seed that will help protect young seedlings. It cannot withstand soggy soil but almost any other condition suits it just fine. It will even survive fire, but it takes a few years for full recovery. 

Seeds can be surface sown or drilled. Provide moisture until plants are several inches high (8 cm.). In field situations control competitive weeds initially, but once established, the dense root system creates its own weed control. Sheep grass in gardens can be mowed to prevent seed dispersal and give the stand a uniform appearance.

Caring for Sheep Grass

This is a very tolerant plant and needs little care. Its primary pest is the grasshopper and it is resistant to most turf grass fungal diseases. Since the plant self-seeds, it may be necessary to remove the panicles before seed crack and dispersal. 

Once the plant is mature it will green up in March and produce seed by July. Much of the growth occurs in spring and it is not unusual for plants to turn brown in summer unless consistently watered. If the plants turn brown there is no cause for alarm, as the plants will return the following spring.

Flame maiden grass brings movement to the garden in the form of 3 to 4 foot (0.9 -1 m.) tall arching stems that change from green to a brilliant orange-red in the fall. The ornamental grass continues its show through winter with sustained burgundy foliage and white tipped flower heads. 

Hardy in USDA growing zones 4 to 8, Miscanthus ‘Purpurascens’ makes a fine statement as a specimen planting as well as for screening, mass groupings, or a hedge. It is perfect for cottage gardens, wildflower meadows, and near ponds and water gardens. 

Flame Maiden Grass Info: How to Grow Flame Grass

This naturally small-sized flame grass ‘Purpurascens’ is a low maintenance, clumping grass. Flame-grass care couldn’t be easier. Plant flame maiden grass in full to part sun in well-drained clay, loam, or sandy soil. This plant prefers more moisture than similar ornamental grasses, however, it is drought tolerant. Summer’s heat and humidity are not a problem for flame grass. 

After cutting back the old foliage in late winter, the slender green leaves quickly regrow. As summer progresses, the leaves slowly turn reddish, culminating to a brilliant orange-red in fall, then darkening to burgundy by winter. Leave the foliage standing for winter interest and to protect the roots from extreme weather. 

Plumes Arrive

In late summer, 8 to 10 inch (20-25 cm.) long seed heads form, starting out light pink, then fading to silvery white. The attractive white plumes can be cut and dried for decorative use. The seed heads are not usually fertile, preventing aggressive spreading. Birds enjoy the seeds, though, bringing wildlife value to the planting. 

More Info

Flame grass ‘Purpurascens’ is not usually bothered by disease and insects, but in some areas, Miscanthus mealybugs and Miscanthus blight are becoming prevalent. 

Flame-grass Miscanthus can be gown near a black walnut tree (black walnut trees are allelopathic, meaning they can be detrimental to other plants), is deer resistant, and tolerates air pollution.

One of the best ways to create drama and movement in the landscape is by the use of ornamental grasses. These stoic plants are known for their tenacity, beauty, and ease of care. But what kind of grass grows best in sand? Finding ornamental grass that grows in sand isn't as hard as one might think. Many of these plants were developed from dune and desert grasses. So the ornamental grass/sandy soil combination is actually quite possible. Most prefer well draining soil, have low nutrient requirements, and many are often cultivars of plants that grow in sandy regions. Plus, ornamental grass for sand is versatile and adaptable. 

What Grass Grows on Sand? 

Sandy sites can be tricky places to plant. They either will need soil amendment or you have to choose plants that are naturally at home in gritty, inhospitable soil. Enter ornamental grass for sand. Many of the varieties are suited for such substrate, making ornamental grass sandy soil an almost perfect combination. But first, you must learn which genera are the most content in that environment. Then you can pare down to your favorite cultivars. Some of the genera most tolerant of sandy soil are:

• Festuca
• Phormium
• Pennisetum
• Panicum
• Cyperus
• Carex
• Deschampsia
• Acorus
• Miscanthus
• Helichtotrichon
• Nassella
• Calamagrostis
• Chondropelatum

Selecting Ornamental Grass That Grows in Sand

Before you get shopping, consider how large you want your plants. Miscanthus, for example, can get quite tall and wide. You don't want grasses blocking your view unless you are looking for privacy. Some grasses are evergreen, but many are not. Be prepared to have brown winter foliage and cut back the blades in early spring to make way for a new flush of growth if you select deciduous varieties. Check plant tags carefully to see what the plant's average water needs will be. If you don't want to water daily, make sure you select one with low moisture requirements. Consider using mulch around the root zone to conserve moisture and keep soil cool. Also make sure the plant will be hardy in your zone. 

What Kind of Grass Grows Best in Sand?

Once you have considered the site conditions and decided the sizes of grass you require, it is time for the fun stuff. Shopping. Here are some almost fool proof cultivars for the sandy soil garden. 

• Cape Rush- Fairly large grass 4-6 feet (1.22-1.83 m) tall. Evergreen.
• Feather Reed Grass- A slender medium sized grass of 4 feet (1.22m). 
• Switch Grass- A large grass with blue green foliage and large panicles that persist into winter. 
• Flax Grass- Broad attractive blades in many colors and variegations.
• Dwarf Umbrella Sedge- Looks great in groupings or as borders.
• Japanese Sedge- Comes in green, gold, and variegated varieties. A clumping evergreen grass.
• Sweet Flag- Golden, green, and variegated. Arching blades, compact habit.
• Blue Oat Grass- Tall blades with a narrow profile. Evergreen and unfussy.
• Pink Muhly Grass- Produces an airy cloud of panicles cover arching foliage
• Pampas Grass- A very large specimen ( 6 feet/ 1.83m). Wonderful huge plumes in summer through fall.

Incorporating ornamental grass in Northwest gardens is an increasingly popular choice and with good reason. There are dozens of choices available in which northwest gardeners can choose from. Interested in growing northwestern ornamental grasses? Read on to learn about Pacific Northwest ornamental grasses. 

Why Plant Ornamental Grass in Northwest Gardens? 

Pacific Northwest ornamental grasses add movement to the landscape. They can soften the hard edges of large rocks or boulders and contrast with perennials. There are so many types of suitable northwestern ornamental grasses, from those that thrive in shade to sun or dry conditions to wet. Ornamental grass for northwest gardens has year-round interest. Plus, grasses in general are often drought tolerant, pest free, and low maintenance. 

Cool Season Ornamental Grass for Northwest Landscapes

Grasses are usually categorized by grouping into cool and warm seasons and evergreens. Cool season grasses begin growing in late winter or early spring, thrive in cooler temps, and should be cut back to the ground in late winter or early spring. They need to be divided more to keep them looking good or they tend to die back in the center. 

Options for cool season ornamental grass for Northwest regions include:

• Blue Fescue
• Hakone grass
• Tufted Hair grass
• Feather Reed grass
• Blue Oat grass
• Rattlesnake grass (Perennial Quaking grass) 

Warm Season Pacific Northwest Ornamental Grasses

Warm season grasses enjoy warmer temps and are drought tolerant. They begin to grow when soil temperatures have warmed. They should be pruned back to between four and six inches (10-15 cm.) in the late spring or early summer of the following year. Examples of warm season Pacific Northwest ornamental grasses include:

• Japanese Blood grass
• Zebra grass
• Blue Wild Rye 
• Switch grass
• Pennisetum/purple fountain grass (there are a number of varieties) 

Evergreen and semi-evergreen grasses should be cut back in the late winter to early spring if needed. Giant feather grass (Stipa gigantean), or Golden Oats, is an example of an evergreen ornamental grass for a northwestern landscape. It grows up to two feet (61 cm.) tall with rolled blue/green leaves and blooms with spires of gold blooms in the summer that can reach up to four feet (1 m.) in height. It tolerates coastal conditions with heavy winds in full sun but should not be planted in the wetter areas of the region. Gophers love it but deer don’t bother it.

If you are looking for plants for an area of full sun, try growing sun loving ornamental grass. Full sun ornamental grass gives year round interest, is easy to grow and there are dozens of varieties on the market. Not all ornamental grasses likes full sun; some like a bit more shade, so be sure to read the following on ornamental grass for sun before planting it in full sun. 

Ornamental Grass Sun Exposure

Not all ornamental grasses are created equal. Some, like many sedges and tufted hairgrass, like partial shade, while others such as June grass and Northern sea oats prefer full shade. 

That said there are plenty of sun loving ornamental grass options. 

Ornamental Grass in Full Sun

So you want to grow ornamental grass in full sun. No problem. First you need to identify what type of habit you are looking for. Some grasses clump and some spread. Spreading grasses are usually taller with more “wow” factor while clumping grasses form short mounds. 

Almost all ornamental grasses are perennials which go dormant in the fall or winter. Some, like bamboo, are evergreen. Some are bunch grasses or tussock grasses while others form complex rhizomous systems. 

In height, ornamental grasses may run from a petite couple of inches (3 cm.) to a whopping 65 feet (20 m.) or larger. Know what to expect before investing in full sun ornamental grass. 

Types of Ornamental Grass for Sun

The sedges (Carex) usually like partial shade, but they also thrive in full sun provided they have moist soil. These evergreens are perfect for underplanting larger trees and shrubs or even container grown and are low growing sun loving ornamental grasses. 

Fescue is a very popular ornamental grass for sun, in fact it is even feature in some turf mixes. Some of the most popular include blue, California, atlas and sheep fescue. Fescue of any type is considered to be low growers. 

Indiangrass (Sorghastrum) is a group of native prairie grasses with feather seed heads that are perfect for open sunny meadows. If you are looking for a groundcover, liriope species come in spreading and clumping forms that tolerate both sun and shade. 

Other low growing ornamental grasses that grow to between 1-3 feet (30 cm. to just under a meter) for sun include fountain grass, love grass, and blue grama grass. 

Taller Sun Loving Ornamental Grass Varieties

Ornamental grasses that top out at 4-5 feet (1-1.5 m.) in height include switchgrasses like ‘Shenandoah Red’ or ‘Northwind’, little bluestem grasses such as ‘Prairie Blues’ or ‘Standing Ovation’ and smaller fountain grasses such as ‘Purple’, ‘Karley Rose’ or ‘Red Head’. 

The larger ornamental grasses are dramatic but remember you do need adequate room for them. Many of these larger grasses grow almost as wide as they do tall and may need staking especially in windy areas. 

If you’re looking to make a statement then try planting one of these large, 6-10 foot (2-3 m.) full sun ornamental grass specimens. Pampas grass is a classic ornamental grass revered for its splendid white (or pink in the case of pink Pampas) plumes. 

Tall Maiden grass such as ‘Goldbreeze’ is another good choice for sunloving ornamental grasses. It can be invasive however and the wider leaved cultivars may need staking. 

Lastly, Ravenna grass, often referred to as ‘Pampas grass’ erroneously is one of the tallest of the ornamental grasses for sun; often topping out at 10 feet (3 m) or more. This grass can also be invasive. 

Eastern gamagrass plants are native to the eastern U.S. and can grow as tall as eight feet (2 m.) high. Although once prevalent across eastern states, European settlers allowed animals to overgraze gamagrass and it is now rare to find it in natural settings. As a grass for forage or hay, it is highly productive and easy to grow. 

About Eastern Gamagrass

Tripsacum dactyloides, or eastern gamagrass, is a native perennial. It is a warm season bunch grass that grows well in soil that is well-drained but also in poor-draining soils. It is well-adapted to wetter areas and can tolerate flooding. 

Among native grasses, gamagrass is one of the most productive. It is an excellent grass to grow if you have livestock needing summer forage. It is also a good option to make hay. Overgrazing destroys gamagrass quickly, though, so make sure you rotate it and when cutting to make hay, leave six to eight inches (15-20 cm.). 

When to Plant Gamagrass

Gamagrass is often planted with corn between the rows. This can provide a good guide for when to plant gamagrass. Start the seeds during early corn planting with the corn first, followed by gamagrass. Generally, you’ll be planting in the spring and the soil should have reached 55 degrees F. (13 C.)

How to Plant Eastern Gamagrass

Germination of eastern gamagrass seed can fail if you skip the stratification process. This means wet-chilling the seeds at about 35 degrees F. (2 C.) for several weeks before planting. You can also buy seeds that are already stratified. Plant the seeds in prepared soil and at a density of about ten pounds of seeds per acre. 

When planting eastern gamagrass, weed control is important. Pre-emergent weed treatments, or planting with corn and other grasses, can help manage weeds. After one year of successful growth with the gamagrass established, weeds shouldn’t be a problem. 

Also avoid harvesting any of the grass until one year of good growth. Also be sure that you rotate livestock if using gamagrass as forage. Rotational stocking will ensure that the grass is not overgrazed.

When it comes to lightly shaded situations in the garden, the world turns a fanciful eye to Hosta plants. Beloved for their varied and showy foliage, Hosta varieties for the south are limitless. 

Hosta Particulars

Hostas range from the largest at 4 feet (1.2 m.)to the tiniest at only a couple inches (5 cm.). Most Southern Hostas grow in a clump from 1½ to 2 feet tall and wide (.5 to .6 m.). The long-lived perennials, hardy to USDA zones 3 to 9, can be blue, yellow, green or variegated with long, sword-shaped or heart-shaped leaves, sometimes accented with wavy edges or a puckered texture. 

Southeast Hostas also are grown for their single or double flower spikes in purple, lavender, or white. Some varieties are sweetly fragrant. 

Some Like it Warm

Hostas for the South need to be chosen carefully because not all Hostas thrive in year-round warmth and they generally prefer a cold winter. Two of the best species of Hosta in the South are plaintain lily (Hosta plantaginea), which is the most heat and sun tolerant, and Fortune’s plaintain lily (H. fortunei), which can tolerate ¾ and ½ day of sun, respectively. 

Plant them in moist, well-draining soil amended with compost. Feed lightly with 10-10-10 fertilizer in the spring. 

Southeast Hostas: Choosing Hosta Varieties for the South

Here are popular Hosta varieties for the South:

• Albomarginata – green leaves with a creamy border
• Aphrodite – fragrant, double flowered, deep green leaves
• August Moon – heavily crinkled, gold leaves
• AureoMarginata – deep green leaves with a gold edge
• Elegans – puckered, blue-gray leaves
• Fragrant Bouquet – apple green leaves edged in yellow or cream
• Francee – wide, dark green leaves with a narrow, white margin
• Gold Standard – heart-shaped, chartreuse leaves with a deep green irregular margin
• Guacamole – variegated foliage
• Halcyon – heart-shaped, powder blue leaves
• Hyacinthina – large heart-shaped leaves with a blue cast 
• Miss Saigon – variegated foliage
• Moonlight – variant of ‘Gold Standard’ with a creamy-white edge 
• Patriot – dark green leaves with a white margin 
• Royal Standard – glossy, deeply veined green leaves, fragrant
• Stained Glass – golden leaves with deep green margins
• Sum & Substance – large, glossy, chartreuse leaves 

Pests and Disease

The Hosta is generally pest and disease resistant, however, its chief tormentors are slugs and snails who chew holes in the leaves. Saucers of beer placed even with the soil line are a popular deterrent. Snails are attracted to the beer, fall in and drown. Diatomaceous earth is a powder that can be sprinkled around the plants. Slugs can’t tolerate the sharp edges.

Boston ferns are the type of fern most commonly seen gracing verandas in the warmer climates of the U.S., but another sovereign may soon grab the scepter: the Kimberly queen. What is a Kimberly queen fern? An Australian Kimberly queen fern plant is a species of fern in the family Lomariopsiaceae originating in, you guessed it, Australia. The following contains information on Kimberly queen fern growing and care. 

What is a Kimberly Queen Fern? 

Native to Australia, the Kimberly queen (Nephrolepis obliterate) was trademarked there by Westland Laboratories Ply Ltd. In the United States, the name has been misspelled so many times that the fern goes by the spelling ‘Kimberly’ when in fact the trademark spelling is ‘Kimberely.’ 

Kimberly fern is a sword fern so called due to the long sword like fronds that are held high and erect and attain a height of 24 to 36 inches (61-91 cm.).

Kimberly Queen Fern Growing Advantageous

Kimberly queen fern has several advantages over the Boston fern. The Kimberly queen fern tolerates sun much better than the Boston and grows much more prodigiously. It also thrives as an indoor houseplant or indoors to overwinter. 

Suitable for USDA zones 9 through11, Kimberly queen fern plants can be overwintered indoors or, contrary to popular belief, left outside in regions of milder winters provided the plant is well mulched. 

Kimberly Queen Fern Care

While Kimberly queen fern plants may tolerate mild winter temps, it is best to treat them either as annuals outside or overwinter them indoors. Temperatures should be 60 to 75 degrees F. (16-24 C.).

They thrive in medium light conditions with plenty of humidity. Indoor conditions may lack in humidity so try grouping the fern with other houseplants with a small humidifier nearby. If planted outside, be sure to plant in a shaded area or an area with minimal morning light. 

These fern plants do well and look beautiful as hanging plants. Fertilize once or twice per year with an all purpose fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Allow the plant to dry out between watering, as it is sensitive to over and under watering.

If you’re looking for shade lovers that aren’t bothered by deer browsing, try growing Southern Shield ferns. What is a shield fern? This fern plant is native from South Carolina to Florida, west into west Texas, and south to the Caribbean Islands. In these regions, Southern Shield Fern care is minimal once the plant has been established. 

What is a Shield Fern?

Growing Southern Shield ferns favor shaded to partially shaded areas of dripping limestone, canyons, low woods, stream banks, and swamps. Shield fern plants (Thelypteris kunthii) are known by several common names including river fern, Southern Maiden fern, wood fern, and Widespread Maiden fern. West of east Texas it is referred to as river fern as it is only found growing along or near water while east of central Texas, the fern is only found in moist wooded environments and is thus referred to as wood fern. 

Growing Southern Shield Ferns 

The shield fern plant, like other ferns, is notable for its long, arching, bright green fronds. These pinnate leaves are haired on both the upper and lower surface. This fern plant makes an excellent low maintenance groundcover fern for shaded areas of the landscape. It can be propagated via root division and as mentioned is deer resistant. The plant spreads via rhizomes to form colonies and fill an area rapidly. 

Southern Shield Fern Care

When growing Southern Shield ferns select a location that is in shade to partial shade in an area that has average to rich, moist, and preferably good drainage, although shield ferns do tolerate poor drainage. Care of the fern plant is minimal. Water during dry spells and cut back dead fronds prior to spring to encourage new growth.

Red fountain ornamental grass (Pennisetum setaceum ‘Rubrum’) is a showy, clump forming grass with burgundy red leaves and feathery plumes of rosy purple blooms. You may know this attention grabber as crimson fountain grass. Although many types of fountain grass are invasive, this plant is well behaved and seldom sets seed. You can expect the plant to reach mature heights of about three to five feet (1 m.), with a similar spread.

Crimson fountain grass is a warm weather plant, suitable for growing as a perennial in USDA plant hardiness zones 9 and 10. However, gardeners in cooler climates can grow this fast growing beauty as an annual. Interested in learning more about growing red fountain ornamental grass? Read on for helpful tips.

How to Grow Red Fountain Grass: Tips on Red Fountain Grass Care

Red fountain ornamental grass prefers full sunlight, which brings out the intense color; however, it tolerates partial shade. Nearly any type of well-drained soil is fine, but the grass doesn’t do well in soggy, poorly drained soil. Plant where it can be protected from harsh winds.

Water newly planted crimson fountain grass once or twice a week until the roots are established, but never to the point of sogginess. Once the plant settles in, the plant is drought-tolerant, but benefits from occasional irrigation when the weather is hot and dry. This ornamental grass thrives in poor soil and requires very little fertilizer; however, the plant benefits from a light application of general-purpose, slow-release fertilizer in early summer. 

Divide crimson fountain grass whenever the plant looks tired or if it dies down in the center. The best time for this task is just before new growth emerges in spring, in late summer, or early fall. If you live in a cooler climate it’s possible to dig the plant in fall, pot it up, and bring it indoors for the winter. Although, most people prefer to start fresh with a new plant every spring.

Red yucca plant (Hesperaloe parviflora) is a tough, drought-tolerant plant that produces showy, reddish coral blooms from spring through midsummer. In warmer climates, plants may bloom year-round. Although red yucca isn’t a true yucca the leathery, arching leaves are very similar. However, the leaves have a more grass like appearance, and they produce no spikes or thorns. Planting a red yucca plant in your garden isn’t difficult. Read on to learn more. 

Red Yucca Information: Hummingbird Yucca Plants

Red yucca is native to southwestern Texas and adjoining areas of Mexico where it grows primarily on rocky slopes, prairies, and in mesquite groves. Hummingbird yucca plants are tough, tolerating cold winters as far north as USDA plant hardiness zone 5.

Red yucca is also called hummingbird yucca plants since hummers love the nectar-rich, tube shaped blooms. Red yucca can also be known as red flowered false yucca, yellow yucca, or coral yucca. 

Planting a Red Yucca: Tips on Red Yucca Care

Locate these yucca plants in full sunlight. The plant thrives in nearly any well-drained soil, but sandy soil is ideal. Red yucca can be grown in large containers filled with a well-drained potting media such as regular potting soil mixed with sand or perlite. Be sure the pot has at least one good drainage hole.

Allow at least two feet (60 cm.) on each side of the plant and two to three feet (60-90 cm.) away from sidewalks or driveways. Young plants may be small, but they will spread relatively quickly. 

Water regularly for the first year but not to the point of sogginess. Thereafter, water occasionally especially during periods of hot, dry weather but be careful not to overwater. Red yucca plants in containers need water more frequently. 

Don’t cut the flower stalks after blooming, as they will produce fruit. Additionally, the seeds provide winter sustenance for songbirds that visit your garden. The stalks can be removed in spring. You can also remove older leaves which will eventually die down and turn brown. Hummingbird yucca plants require very little fertilizer, but you can feed them lightly before new growth appears in spring. Use a good-quality, general-purpose fertilizer.

Red yucca plants will eventually develop “pups,” or offsets that grow to the side of the plant. If you want to propagate more plants for your own garden or for sharing, just dig up the offsets and replant them. You can also divide established clumps.