Birds in the backyard help create a delightful garden. The flash of color, the cheery birdsong, and the delightful antics liven up the landscape. It’s no wonder gardeners often give special thought to what birds need when organizing the garden.

Every region is blessed with local birds, but some areas are especially lucky in the bird department, like Washington, Oregon and Idaho, collectively known as the “Pacific Northwest.”

The range of bird species in the Pacific Northwest is exceptional, thanks in large part to the varied topography.

Here is a short list of nine wonderful Pacific Northwest birds – representing only a tiny fraction of nature’s remarkable avian show. We’ve picked birds for this list that you are likely to spot in your backyard: Idaho and Oregon backyard birds as well as backyard birds of Washington state. If you head to the ocean or to one of the many rivers in this part of the country, you’ll find interesting water birds too.

Common Birds of the Pacific Northwest

1. Anna’s Hummingbird

Anna's hummingbirds are full-time Pacific Northwest birds. This common hummingbird species is a staple year-round in both urban and suburban areas. Other hummers, like Rufous hummingbirds, migrate through the area on their way north and south, but Anna’s hummingbirds are there to stay.

These are magical birds with sparkling coloring, especially the males with their iridescent rose-red throat and crown and emerald backs. Females have emerald-green backs and rosy spots on the throat. Anna hummingbirds are delighted to visit your hummingbird feeders but will also eat nectar from native plants. Highly territorial, these little birds defend “their” space fiercely.

2. Golden-Crowned Kinglet

Recognize the golden-crowned kinglet by the black-and-white stripes above their eyes and orange or yellow crowns. Both male and female kinglets flick their wings open and shut when hunting for insects. You’ll find these birds in evergreen forests, swamps and bottomlands in addition to suburban backyards.

3. American Robin

Does the American robin live in all states? Not quite all, but this common bird, with its red-orange breast and pleasant song, does get around. You might see them in a tree or pecking for worms in a lawn. Listen for its happy call - “cheery, cheer-up, cheer-io” – but also its “tut, tut, tut” call. American robins don’t eat very often from seed feeders but if you put out fruit, they’ll be happy to eat this too. They also eat worms and bugs.

4. Spotted Towhee

The spotted towhee is a large, striking sparrow. It is found in thickets of brush in this area of the country. The male birds are shiny black above, while the females are gray, with brown flanks. Both have white stripes and bright red eyes. They look a little like slender robins and live near forests, thickets, and overgrown fields.

5. Cooper's Hawk

Do Cooper’s Hawks approach bird feeders? Yes they do, but they aren’t looking for seeds! Instead, they come for a more substantial meal. These hawks prefer to eat the birds that frequent the seeders, like pigeons or doves, and smaller birds like chickadees. This species has adapted well to suburban environments, nesting in neighborhood trees. Cooper’s Hawks fly fast and fancy, with their long tails and short round wings. While young birds are brown with yellow eyes, they develop gray feathers and red eyes as they get older.

See Birds Up Close

6. Downy Woodpecker

This small, beautiful woodpecker is black and white, and males have a touch of red on the back of their heads. You’ll often see downy woodpeckers along tree trunks and branches, they can be lured to the feeder with suet or sunflower seeds. The downy woodpecker’s call includes a sharp “pik” and a “whinny.”

7. Chestnut-backed Chickadee

If you want to see this attractive chickadee, you’ll need to go to the Pacific Northwest. That is the only spot it frequents. Chestnut-backed Chickadees build nests in dark, dense forests using fur from coyotes and rabbits. But you will also see them in parks and suburbs.

8. Song Sparrow

These sparrows have rust-brown bodies with bold gray streaks, and white chests with brown streaks. Their brown crown has a gray stripe as well that continues across the bird’s face. Look for them on the ground since they are ground nesters. The song of this bird is particularly lovely, three short notes followed by a trill.

9. Northern Flicker

Northern Flickers are big birds, large, brown woodpeckers with attractive, black-scalloped feathering. Their wings flash red when they fly. Their expression is often described as “gentle.” If you are looking for one, your best bet is to look at the ground since their preferred food is insects found in the soil like ants and beetles.

Frequently Asked Questions

The Pacific Northwest is characterized by primarily temperate conditions, although a few areas have very hot summers and deeply cold winters. The area runs the gamut when it comes to soil conditions, elevation, and other factors. These conditions affect what can be planted – particularly in early to mid-spring, when our gardens are starting to come back to life.

Encompassing Northern California, Oregon, Washington, and flowing up into British Columbia and the Yukon in Canada, the Pacific Northwest is a diverse region. Each of these areas has sections that abut the ocean and include mountain ranges. Such a varied collection of terrain means there are fairly large discrepancies in UDSA zones, which dictate the suitability of perennial plants and trees you can grow in your area.

To be successful in spring planting, you must understand your zone and know your last frost date, as many tender annual plants and vegetables won't survive a late cold snap.

Pacific Northwest USDA Zones

In the Pacific Northwest, USDA hardiness zones span 6 to 9, but there are some areas where it is zone 4. This means it is difficult to pinpoint exact timings for the whole region in spring.

For instance, Washington state has three very different regions. The west side of the state is mild through winter, and the soil warms early in spring. The mountain range warms much more slowly, and snow will persist well into spring and even early summer. And finally, the eastern part of the state is almost desert-like and boasts deeply freezing winters with burning hot summers.

We can, however, do an umbrella list of when to start spring chores and planting. Just note that your particular zone may require a later or earlier start. Pay close attention to seed packet information. Spring chores can start as soon as it is comfortable to work out of doors, but planting may have to wait in some zones.

Garden Chores for April

• Now is the time to finish any garden cleanup. That is especially important in the vegetable garden where left over plant material can harbor pests and disease.
• Sharpen and clean your garden tools. Sanitizing your tools can help prevent the transfer of disease. Sharp implements will cause less injury when pruning and deadheading.
• Amend your soil where this is needed. Incorporate well-rotted manure or compost into the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches (15cm). A soil test can help determine what other amendments, such as sulfur or lime, are needed.
• It is probably safe to begin pulling mulch from around certain plants. Anything that you covered for winter with mulch should be freed from the stuff so new sprouts can come up easily.
• It may be a bit early to determine if plants survived the winter, but you should start checking on them. Prune out any damaged stems and branches.
• Fertilize your lawn with slow-release granules. It is also not too early to get a jump on those perennial weeds with manual action.
• Fertilize your acid-loving plants, as well as use an all purpose formula on others. Use a slow-release formula that will last all season long.
• Prune and divide your perennials. Not all will need division, but it is good practice to divide them every three years or so. Dig them up and use a soil saw or similar device to cut the main body into sections, ensuring each portion has plenty of roots.
• Cut back ornamental grasses to 6 inches (15cm). These will begin producing new leaf blades soon which would be overshadowed by the old dead leaves.
• Go through raspberries and other cane berries and cut out the old and dead canes. This will allow new canes room to grow and improve air circulation. It is also a good time to reestablish growth support.
• Set out cool-season starts to harden off and then plant.

What to Plant in the Pacific Northwest in April

• Now is the best time to install bare-root plants. These plants will establish best if planted before soil temperatures rise too much.
• If necessary, move any plants to their final destination while they are still dormant. Plants that were heeled in can also begin to join the garden with a nice layer of mulch around their root zones to protect them from spring freezes.
• Start seeds indoors that will be planted outside after the last frost date. The general rule is to start seeds 6-8 weeks prior to the last frost.
• Plant available annuals like pansies and primroses. If you didn’t get spring bulbs in the ground in the fall, purchase those that have been given a chilling period and plant those now.
• Plant asparagus crowns. They will need a full-sun location in well-draining soil.
• If you didn’t plant garlic in the fall, you still have the option. In temperate regions, you can still get a decent crop with spring-planted bulbs.
• Plant potatoes. These are generally planted in mid-March, but it isn’t too late to get them started. Chit the potatoes for best results. This is usually done four weeks or more before planting. Set the seed potatoes with the eyes facing upward in a cool, bright location until the eyes sprout.
• Direct sow seeds for cool-season crops.

Plants to Direct Sow in April

Your seed packet will have a little map on it that delineates when to sow each variety by zone. Cool-season crops will still germinate even when nighttime temperatures are cool and can be directly sown outside. Some of these crops are:

• Asian greens
• Broccoli
• Cabbage
• Cauliflower
• Chard
• Collard greens
• Fennel
• Kale
• Kohlrabi
• Snow peas and sugar snap peas
• Spinach

You can even begin to direct sow many root crops, provided the soil is workable deep down:

• Beets
• Carrots
• Potatoes
• Scallions
• Turnips
• Radishes

Early April is also when you should plant out your onion sets. Plant leek seeds now for a fall harvest. If you get them in early in the month, shallots may also still be planted.

Several herbs can be started directly from seed in April:

• Chives
• Cilantro
• Dill
• Marjoram
• Mint
• Oregano
• Parsley
• Thyme

Protecting Early Crops in April

One thing you will need to watch for as the seeds get ready to sprout are birds. They are foraging for food and will pull up seedlings and eat certain seeds. Use seedling bird protection measures like bird netting, repellents, and physical scary tactics like fluttering flags to keep them from the veggie patch.

Another problem is snails and slugs. They love to snack on baby plants. I save my toilet paper rolls and make a collar around tender young seedlings to keep these mollusks away. Slug beer traps are also effective.

A late frost is a potential threat in spring. Who knows what Mother Nature will do in this most volatile of seasons? Mulch around plants to protect the root zone. Use DIY cloches, or plant in a cold frame where possible. Have on hand some wire hoops and frost barrier fabric to erect a quick DIY hoop house if the weather forecast indicates a freeze.

Keep the soil around plant roots moist since damp soil stays warmer than dry soil. Weed frequently to keep competitive plants away from your seedlings. If deer or rabbits are a problem, erect a fence or use repellents to prevent their browsing.

As the seeds sprout, it is necessary to do that dreaded chore, culling. Learn how to thin seedlings to a distance that they will still have air circulation between mature plants. Don’t throw the thinnings away. Many of these, especially leafy plants, are edible, and tasty tossed into a salad.

After your seeds have developed two sets of true leaves, feed them with a fertilizer diluted by half. Transplants should be fed two to three weeks after they are installed in the ground.

If you planted cool-season crops earlier, you could be harvesting asparagus, greens, radishes, and snow or sugar snap peas this month.

More Gardening Inspiration

• As well as our recommended plants for April, you can also grow our Pacific Northwest plants for March.
• Discover the 10 flower seeds to Sow in April for a sea of stunning blooms through summer and fall.
• Get sowing outdoors or start seeds inside with these 7 best vegetables to plant in April for a bumper summer harvest.
• Sign up for the Gardening Know Newsletter to receive growing tips and exclusive offers straight to your inbox.

April is the unofficial beginning of the gardening season in New England. While the region’s famously unpredictable weather can still throw off a gardener’s best-laid plans this month, New Englanders are a determined lot and will get to work outside anyway.

That’s why it’s essential for gardeners to adjust their plans based on local conditions. We’ll explore how Northeastern gardens can make a successful start in April throughout New England, from the coast to the mountains, and provide some suggestions for soil preparation, which flowers and vegetables can safely be planted outside, and how to protect your plants from unexpected chill.

New England’s Weather in April

New England may be small in comparison to other regions of the US. Still, its six states (Connecticut, Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Rhode Island, and Vermont) include four USDA hardiness zones, from zone 4 in northern Maine to zone 7 along the Connecticut coastline. Because of this, frost-free garden planting comes to southern New England much sooner than it does in Maine’s farthest reaches. Knowing your particular USDA zone is key for when you can plant the popular summer-loving vegetables and flowers like tomatoes and petunias.

Your region’s last frost date is important gardening information as well. It’s the average last day in spring on which a frost has occurred. That doesn’t mean you won’t experience a frost after that date, but the likelihood of it happening is much lower.

Generally speaking, April’s weather across the region can be summarized as:

• Southern New England: By mid-April, daytime temperatures are routinely range from mid-50°F to low-60°F, with infrequent nighttime temperatures dipping below freezing. Spring rains make for soggy cool soils in April.
• Central and Northern New England: Spring is slow to catch on in this area, with daytime temperatures ranging from 40°F to low 50°F, with more risk of nighttime frost than their southern neighbors. The ground is still quite cold through the month.
• Western Connecticut and Massachusetts: These hilly regions are cooler than the coast but warmer than those to the north. The danger of frost is gone by mid to late April, and the ground is just warm enough to plant cool-season crops.

A Note About Soils

In April New England’s sandy to rocky loam soils are cold and soggy, even muddy to heavy due to melting snow and spring rain. In-ground gardens need to dry out a bit before planting; otherwise, the working of the soil can cause compaction, and reduce aeration and drainage.

Test the readiness of your soil by grabbing a handful of it and squeezing it into a ball. If the soil remains in a ball as you release your grip, it’s still too wet for working and planting. If it falls apart, you’re able to till the ground and start planting.

Vegetables and Herbs to Plant in April

Once your soil is no longer cold and is dry enough to be tilled, you can start direct-sowing seeds of some crops into your garden. Alternatively, soils in raised beds tend to warm up and drain excess water sooner than in-ground gardens. The following vegetables and herbs do well in the cooler weather of early spring and on through the season. Sow seeds or plant as seedlings where available:

• Beets
• Broccoli
• Brussels sprouts
• Cabbage
• Carrots
• Cauliflower
• Chives
• Cilantro
• Kale
• Kohlrabi
• Lettuces
• Oregano
• Parsley
• Peas
• Potatoes
• Radishes
• Sage
• Spinach
• Thyme

It’s still too cool to plant summer heat-loving crops outdoors. However, starting seeds indoors in April will ensure they are a plantable size by mid- to late-May when summer weather is here to stay. These crops include:

• Basil
• Beans
• Cucumbers
• Eggplants
• Okra
• Peppers
• Rosemary
• Summer Squash
• Sweet Potatoes
• Tomatoes

Flowers and Ornamentals to Plant in April

April is still too early for the tender annuals that define summer gardens. However, a few perennials and annual flowers are hardy enough to take the cool spring weather. You’ll find the following to be colorful additions to an awakening spring landscape:

• Creeping phlox
• Daffodils
• Forsythia
• Hellebore
• Pansies
• Senecio
• Snapdragons

April is also the time to plant poppy seeds in your flower beds. Poppies are difficult to transplant, so scatter-sowing their seeds in early April is the best way to enjoy their beautiful blooms in summer.

There’s still time to start seeds of summer-flowering annuals indoors. If sown now, crops such as marigolds, zinnias, sunflowers, and cosmos will be big enough to plant outside when warmer weather arrives.

Fruits and Berries

April’s sunny yet mild days and cool nights are just the conditions for planting nutritious fruits and berries.

• Strawberries: Plant bare-root strawberry plants in April to establish their roots before blooming and fruiting begin.
• Blueberry, raspberry, and other fruit bushes: Planting now gives them time to settle in before the season’s growth occurs.
• Apple trees: Apples require well-draining soil and plenty of light. Choose varieties that can handle cooler New England weather. Plant different varieties or within range of a crabapple to ensure cross-pollination. Protect young trees from nibbling deer and other wildlife.

Why not include a fruit not readily found at your local grocery store? Try your hand at keeping a gooseberry or currant bush in your yard this year. Both include varieties suitable for New England climates. Plus, currants do well in partial sun, so they would be a nice addition to an understory garden.

Tips for Gardening in New England in April

Make the most of your time in the April garden. Here are a few tasks to keep you ahead of the growing season.

• Test Your Soil
  A soil test can help you determine what nutrients are in your soil, identifying its deficiencies and excesses. Your state university’s extension service can conduct the test to determine levels of phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, micronutrients, and the presence of contaminants such as lead. At-home soil testing kits are also available.
• Weed and Mulch Your Beds
  If your soil is still moist (but not wet!), weeds will pull up easily. Clear out as many weeds as you can and then apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch, even if you haven’t planted yet. The mulch will help control weeds and retain moisture throughout the season.
• Protect New Plantings From Frost
  Pay attention to the weather! If a freezing night is predicted, use row covers or cover with light blankets. Or create your own DIY cloche.
• Protect Plants From Pests
  Pests emerge and swarm on warm days. Use insect covers where possible to protect seedlings from chewing insects. Slugs are also a nuisance in the moist conditions of spring. Apply rings of diatomaceous earth or gravel around plantings to keep them away.
• Get Your Tools Together
  If you didn’t get to it in the fall, now’s the time to clean your hand tools for the growing season ahead. Learn about the 10 essential gardening tools you’ll need for your new garden.

The April garden is full of such potential! Take a moment to appreciate the seasonal changes that are about to happen.

More Growing Inspiration

• As well as our recommended plants for April you can also grow our New England plants for March.
• Discover the 10 flower seeds to Sow in April for endless blooms through summer and fall.
• Get sowing outdoors and inside with these 7 best vegetables to plant in April for a bumper summer harvest.
• Sign up for the Gardening Know Newsletter to receive growing tips and exclusive offers straight to your inbox.

March is an interesting month in New England. While those along the coasts of Connecticut and Rhode Island are enjoying some early-spring beachcombing, folks along the upper tiers of Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine are exhilarated by some of the best skiing of the season. The rest of New England’s inhabitants, including all of Massachusetts, are slogging around in the region’s unofficial fifth season – Mud Season.

No matter where one is along that continuum of sea coast to snowy mountains, March sees New Englanders actively thinking about and participating in their spring gardens. To be successful gardening in the Northeast, you need a clear understanding of your USDA hardiness zone, last frost date, garden soil preparation techniques, what can be grown outdoors, what should be grown indoors, and how you can handle unpredictable weather.

Understanding New England’s March Climate

New England stretches from the northern suburbs of New York City to New Brunswick, Canada. The six states in the region (Connecticut, Rhode Island, Massachusetts, Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine) include USDA hardiness zones from a temperate zone 7a along the Connecticut coast to a cold zone 4a in northern Maine (and even colder on the mountain peaks!).

These zone differences help us understand that northern regions of New England experience very cold average minimum winter temperatures – as low as -25°F – while more southerly locales’ average minimum temperatures rarely dip below 0°F. And as such, winters in southern New England can be up to a month shorter than in northern regions. This is all to say that it’s crucial to understand your particular USDA zone if you are a New England gardener.

What’s even more crucial to understand is your area’s last frost date. This is the average date of the last light freeze in spring. For southern Massachusetts, that date is as early as April 16. In Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom, that date is June 5. Big difference!

Even with last frost dates in April, planting in some portions of New England is possible. But first, you need to consider the soil’s condition. Much of New England’s soil is either still frozen or is beginning to thaw in March. Thanks to its general rockiness, the soil can be quite soggy and muddy this month. Check your soil’s moisture by squeezing a handful of it. If it stays clumped, your soil is much too wet. If you must plant, work some organic matter into your soil to improve drainage. Soil in raised beds drains better than garden soil, and it soil warms sooner, too, allowing for better germination and plant growth.

With the still-cold weather and the frozen or soggy ground, March may seem better suited for planning, indoor seed-starting, and gardening preparation. Depending on where you’re located in New England, you may be able to get to some planting in the garden. We’ll cover both below.

Vegetables and Herbs to Plant in March

Early March is a great time for starting seeds indoors to grow warm-weather summer vegetables. By the time the weather warms up to their liking (consistently above 50°F nighttime temperatures), the seeds you started indoors in March will be big enough to transplant into the garden.

Some warm-weather vegetables and herbs to start from seed indoors include:

• Basil
• Cilantro
• Cucumbers
• Eggplant
• Oregano
• Parsley
• Peppers
• Summer squashes
• Tomatoes

Start onions and leeks indoors, too. These crops have such a long growing season, so starting them indoors now ensures their growing season will be long enough for them to reach maturity.

Some cold-weather crops can be sown indoors now (or even back in February!) and planted outside in late March to mid-April. These crops include brassicas such as cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and kale. In fact, these plants can tolerate a touch of frost and can go outside even before spring’s last frost date.

Some southerly regions of New England are warm enough in the latter half of March to support the direct sowing or planting of a few crops. As soon as the soil is workable, sow these crops:

• Beets
• Peas
• Potatoes
• Radishes
• Spinach

In fact, planting peas on St. Patrick’s Day is a tradition to bring good luck! It’s just a month before the last frost date, and this crop does prefer to get its start while the weather is still chilly.

Flowers and Ornamentals in the March Garden

There aren’t a lot of flowering plants that can go in the ground now and bloom this month. However, there is color popping up here and there from previously planted trees, shrubs, bulbs and perennials, including:

• Crocus
• Forsythia
• Hellebore
• Snowdrops
• Witch hazel

You can plant these either now or in the fall – along with other trees and best perennials for New England. As long as the soil is workable you can plant now to give them a full season of growth.

Begin seeds of summer-flowering annuals indoors. Crops such as marigolds, zinnias, sunflowers, cosmos, pansies, and snapdragons all germinate easily indoors. They’ll be fit for planting out in the garden as soon as the last frost date has passed.

Note that pansies and snapdragons are more cold-hardy than other annuals. Pansies can even handle a bit of snow! A covered space close to the home may be enough to protect them from a cold snap. Otherwise, bring the pots into a garage if super-cold weather is predicted.

Fruits and Berries

March is an excellent time to plant berry bushes and suitable fruit trees for the Northeast. If your garden’s soil is workable, you can plant the following items now and harvest the fruit later this summer:

• Apple, pear, cherry, and other fruit trees
• Raspberry, blackberry, blueberry, and other fruit bushes

Strawberries can also be planted in late March. You may get a crop of berries from June-bearing strawberries, but you’ll have more of a chance to pick some fruit this season if you plant everbearing strawberries.

Tips for Gardening in New England in March

If you’re inspired to get in the garden this month but the weather isn’t cooperating for planting, you can prepare your gardens for when the time is right.

• Prepare Your Soil
  Soil can always use some loosening. Apply a layer of compost and dig it in with a garden fork. Test your soil pH so it’s ready for spring growth. Aim for a pH value between 6.0-7.0. Add lime to raise the pH if the soil is too acidic, and apply sulfur to lower the pH if it’s too alkaline.
• Mulch Planting Beds
  Once your soil has warmed up a bit (and has definitely thawed out), a layer of mulch will help control that early crop of weeds. It’ll also help retain moisture as your plantings emerge from their dormancy.
• Fix Beds and Other Structures
  If your garden gate is off-kilter or a raised bed is tilting, fix it now while you have the time.
• Protect Plants from Frost
  If you are planting in the garden this March, protect plants from a freeze. Use row covers in the garden or plant in cold frames. Doing so will protect your tender young plants from very cold temperatures.
• Protect from Pests
  Common pests for Northeast gardens are out early. Slugs thrive in spring’s damp conditions, so set up some physical barriers around the small plants. Flea beetles can swarm on warm spring days and absolutely devastate newly emerged seedlings. Use row covers and diatomaceous earth to repel them.

There might not be a whole lot going on in a New Englander’s garden in March, but enjoy this calm before the gardening storm of spring.

More Growing Inspiration

• Discover the 7 must-grow flower seeds to start in March for a heavenly summer garden.
• Get sowing outdoors and inside with these 8 best vegetables to plant in March for a longer harvest.
• Elevate your flower power with the 10 best flowers for hanging baskets.

As a region that encompasses states and provinces that border coastal areas, the Pacific Northwest is considered temperate overall. But inland areas of the region, as well as higher elevations, can experience very cold winter temperatures and a slow start to spring. Its unique climate impacts what gardeners can plant in March – and how soon to start growing.

Broadly speaking, the Pacific Northwest region includes Washington, Oregon, Northern California, and British Columbia in Canada. Such a diverse range means the area is divided into sub-zones within each state, known as UDSA zones. To be successful, it's vital to understand your zone as well as your last frost date. This will help you determine what you can plant outdoors, and what to start indoors in March.

Pacific Northwest USDA Zones

Even in each state, growing zones are varied. Washington is designated as UDSA zones 4a–9a – while Seattle may be 9a, Spokane is 6b. There are even little pockets in the state that are in lower zones.

British Columbia is 7a–8b. However, if you look at the USDA map, you will find Beverley is a 4a, Dawson Creek is 3a, and Gabriola is 9a. It really has a wide range of hardiness zones within the same province.

This all means there are very different planting times within the same region.

Understanding the Pacific Northwest Climate in March

Due to this wide range of zones, the temperatures in March are also broad. British Columbia in March has average daytime temperatures of 39 to 50°F (4 to 10°C). Head south into Oregon, and you will find averages of 42 to 59°F (5.5 to 15°C). As a region, this shows quite a diverse temperature range.

If you look at the USDA map, California ranges from 5a–9b. The latter zone, 9b, is very warm throughout most of the year. But 5a will experience freezing winter temperatures and regular snowfall. This is due to that area’s location in the mountains.

Therefore, the best Pacific Northwest plants to plant in March will differ slightly from zone to zone. However, there are some generalities.

What Vegetable Seeds to Start in March

Due to the wide temperature fluctuations, gardeners should know their individual climates when choosing the best vegetables to grow in the Pacific Northwest. As a rule, March is when you should start your cool-season crops outside, as well as some herbs.

In March, Pacific Northwest gardeners can direct sow seeds into prepared garden beds to start these plants:

• Carrots
• Chard
• Cilantro
• Collard greens
• Dill
• Fennel
• Kale
• Leeks
• Lettuce
• Onions
• Potatoes
• Radish
• Shallots
• Spinach
• Spring onions
• Sugar peas and snow peas

While it is still too cool outside and soil temperatures have not warmed enough for seed germination of warm-season crops, try starting seeds indoors for these plants 8 weeks before the date of your last frost:

• Basil
• Eggplant
• Peppers
• Tomatoes

If you have a greenhouse or cold frame in a region that is still experiencing winter temperatures, you may still be able to plant seed. Water walls can help protect plants from freezing temperatures. Building a hoop house is another way to keep the temperatures warmer inside the structure.

Because there is such a wide range of temperatures, northern gardeners will have to resort to such items as well as cloches, raised beds, and frost-barrier fabric.

Fruits to Plant in March

March in the Pacific Northwest is often the best time to plant bare-root plants. If your ground is not frozen, this will give them an excellent start on the growing season.

Suitable berry canes and fruit trees for the Pacific Northwest may go in the ground if it is workable. Pears, apples, plums, blackberries, marionberries, and loganberries will perform well provided the soil is thawed.

March is an excellent time to get a rhubarb plant in the ground and in some zones, strawberry starts may be installed.

The cooler temperatures of March will give blueberry bushes time to establish and acclimate.

Flowers and Ornamental Plants

March is a great time to sow many flower seeds, including Pacific Northwest perennials and annuals. Zinnias, celosia, bachelor’s buttons, and sunflowers may be started indoors and transplanted after all danger of frost has passed.

Pansies and snapdragons could have been started earlier and are now safe to move to a protected area of the garden.

In addition, these key planting tasks can be done in March:

• Tender summer bulbs may be installed in zones 7 and above.
• Hardy bushes for the Pacific Northwest should be planted where the soil is workable. Keep an eye on these if there are not many spring rains to keep them watered.
• March is when the ornamental grasses become available at nurseries. You will also find many outdoor bushes and shrubs. Arborvitae, boxwood, barberry, and yews are but a few.
• Spread a layer of mulch around the root zone to protect freshly planted roots from unexpected freezes.

Tips for March Gardening

• Before you plant any seeds, use a soil thermometer to make sure the soil temperature is above 40°F (4.5°C). This is a great time to add soil amendments, such as compost, lime, manure, and materials like sand, straw, or shredded newspaper where it is needed.
• March is also time to start cutting back perennials and dividing them, pulling mulch away from plants, sharpening your tools, and beginning a campaign against pests and weeds.
• Some of the most common spring pests that will cause damage to plants are slugs and snails. Set traps or lay bait early in the month, and consistently.
• Plants that overwinter may now be reintroduced to the outdoors in protected locations. If the plant is tender, watch the weather so you can move it back into cover.
• Repot and freshen the soil in hardy container plants.
• March is the time to begin pruning many woody plants. Avoid pruning any with buds or that will flower in spring. Assess winter damage and remove broken limbs and other plant material.

Protecting the Garden in March

• If your zone might still expect hard freezes, mulch around tender plant’s root zones.
• Have light blankets, sheets, burlap, tarps, or frost barrier fabric at the ready. If a freeze threatens, cover tender plants overnight.
• Keep plants watered – wet soil holds more heat than dry soil.
• Use organic material around plants to keep the soil warm. This may be bark, grass clippings, leaf litter, or compost.
• Consider erecting an inexpensive hoop house over your newly planted seeds. This consists of arched, metal wires inserted into the soil. Then drape plastic or frost fabric over the frame.
• Alternatively, build an easy cold frame using clear plastic totes. Situate these over the plants at night when freezing temperatures are expected.
• With a little protection, your garden will have a head start if you plant in March.

More Growing Inspiration

• Discover the 7 must-grow flower seeds to start in March for a heavenly summer garden.
• Get sowing outdoors and inside with these 8 best vegetables to plant in March for a longer harvest.
• Elevate your flower power with the 10 best flowers for hanging baskets.

If you're planning a move and are an avid grower, perhaps you're curious about the best states for gardening. Narrow that further and finding the best cities for gardening will provide you with a nirvana landscape.

Of course we can’t all move just to find the best states to live for gardening, but taking into consideration climate, access to supplies, gardening regions, and community resources, the list can be narrowed to 5 of the best places to live for gardening.

Best States for Gardening

What you wish to grow will determine the best states for gardening. For instance, do you want award winning vegetables, prize worthy roses, a certain type of garden, or year round weather perfect for playing outside in your landscape? Here are top rated states for 5 different types of gardening.

1. If you're an avid grower of your own food, California probably tops the list as the best place to live for vegetable gardening. Half of all U.S. grown produce comes from this warm state. While some areas can experience freezes in winter, the majority of the state is warm and mild. This means you can often plant spring and fall crops during the year. The warm climate also allows the gardener to tend to their plants almost every day of the year. If you want to grow fruit trees like pomes, Washington would be at the top of that list. Idaho has the perfect climate for potatoes.
2. Florida and California produce the most cut flowers for commercial sale in the U.S. Florida isn’t ideal for plants like roses due to the humidity, but many other flowering plants will thrive. California is the leading producer of roses while Washington state, especially the temperate west, comes in third as a producer of commercial blooms.
3. If your goal is a cottage garden or potage (kitchen garden), the best place to live for gardening herbs and old fashioned flowers is the Pacific Northwest. This encompasses the states Oregon, Washington, California, and parts of Idaho. Dotted among other plants, peonies, camellia, clematis, irises, and lilacs will thrive. Certain areas of each state will experience long, freezes in winter, but the milder regions will produce elegant, useful gardens easily.
4. The best place to live for gardening year round is one with a mild winter. Although arid, Arizona will sustain heat loving plants longest. California, Florida, and Washington are mild enough in the winter to get outside and take care of garden tasks. If you don’t mind a little rain, Oregon has a climate that’s temperate most days and allows you to put on a Macintosh and galoshes and splash around in puddles as you delight in your garden.
5. If tropical fruits and flowers are your goal, Florida and Hawaii have climates and soils suited for these exotic plants. Except in winter elevations, Hawaii has the perfect soil for pineapples, mangos, and papayas. In Florida, you can raise hibiscus, bougainvillea, jasmine, and plumbago.

Best Cities for Gardening

Most states have a combination of climates and USDA plant hardiness zones. In the same state there may be areas that are wet and areas that are constantly dry. There might be one part of the state that gets freezing winters, while the other side stays temperate. So honing in on a city within a state will help narrow down the best place for gardening. Taking into consideration the number of frost free days, average hours of sunlight, availability of resources and support, these are the top 5 cities for gardening in the United States.

1. Atlanta, Georgia is a gardener's paradise. With sunshine almost every day, mild to warm temperatures, and rich soil, this city in the peach state has it all. They even have a wonderful botanical garden with examples of local flora and events and classes.
2. Tampa, Florida is a coastal city that boasts warm summers and mild winters. It has the 4th highest average minimum temperature in the U.S. It boasts the highest number of nurseries per square mile. Gardening every day is a real and exciting prospect in this city.
3. Omaha, Nebraska is in the breadbasket of the states. It has rich soil and the winters are fairly mild with just nighttime freezing. There are many community garden clubs and a wealth of nurseries and garden centers.
4. With a lovely USDA zone rank of 7a, St. Louis, Missouri has perfect weather to garden any day of the year. The Missouri botanical garden hosts many events and workshops to inspire and delight gardeners.
5. San Diego, California features an almost Mediterranean climate which is suited to many types of crops and other plants. It also has an exceptionally long growing season and many crops can be grown in the winter. This lovely city also has a botanical garden featuring desert, tropical, and other garden schemes.

Keystone planting is devoted to the flowers, shrubs, trees, and other plants that support many other organisms living in a particular ecosystem. A healthy garden contains native species, but to truly promote the local environment and biodiversity, choose critical keystone plants. 

An understanding of keystone flora is vital for earth conscious gardening and plant selections that have the most benefit in specific areas. As NationalGeographic.org explains, "A keystone species is an organism that helps define an entire ecosystem. Without its keystone species, the ecosystem would be dramatically different or cease to exist altogether."

What is Keystone Planting?

Native plants are plants that evolved to live and grow in a specific region. They interact with other species in that region as part of a complex web of life. These native plants provide a food source, cover, and nesting sites. Among these native species are certain keystone native plants.

Keystones are species that are essential to a local food web. They support microbes, insects, birds, and other animals. They interact with more species in the ecosystem than other native plants. Many species or organisms within a food web rely on a keystone plant to complete their life cycles.

Why Keystone Planting is Important

The term ‘keystone’ refers to an architectural element. The top, wedge-shaped stone in an arch is the keystone. It supports the weight of all the other stones in the arch. Remove the keystone, and the arch will collapse.

This is a good analogy for the importance of keystone species in ecosystems. They support so many elements of the ecosystem that without it, the system collapses to some extent. The system might not collapse entirely, but when keystones disappear, biological diversity drops drastically.

Keystone plants are particularly important in the life cycles of insects. For instance, some keystone plants serve as hosts and food sources for about 90 percent of butterfly and moth species. Many keystones also support pollinators.

By supporting insects, keystones support birds. For anyone interested in gardening for birds, around 96 percent of terrestrial birds consume insects that rely on keystone plants. Insects are also important for feeding amphibians and some mammals. They add nutrients to the soil. Without keystone species, many elements of an ecosystem may collapse, like a line of dominoes.

Understanding Keystone Plant Species

Among keystone wildflowers is the often misunderstood goldenrod plant. Many people blame it for allergies, but truthfully, goldenrod pollen is too heavy to be carried by the wind. As a keystone, goldenrod supports numerous pollinators including butterflies, bees, and beetles. It supports at least 11 specialist pollinating bee species as well. More than 100 caterpillars rely on goldenrod, and more than 50 insect species feed on its stems.

Trees can be keystone species as well, including the white oak and black oak in many areas of North America. These vital trees support over 400 caterpillar species.

Keystone Planting in Your Garden

Using keystone native plants in your garden is a great way to support your local ecosystem and environment. There are many additional benefits to a native garden, including saving water and attracting wildlife. When planning for more natives in your garden, consider adding some keystone species.

Research online or check with your local extension office to get a list of keystone species for your area. Consider a diversity of keystones, such as native trees, shrubs, and perennials, and wildflowers. The more you can add to your garden, the greater the benefits will be. It’s important to choose native species and keystones thoughtfully. 

Make sure you select species that will thrive in the specific conditions of your yard or garden. For instance, if you have low areas that collect water, a pond, or a boggy garden, avoid native species that don’t thrive in standing water. Look for keystones that naturally grow in those conditions. Keystone species hold up the food web and the ecosystem. For the most sustainable, healthiest garden, select native plants and include keystone plant species.

Which Trees Will Suit Your Needs & Your Space

The first question you should ask before buying, planting, or growing a tree is: What kind of tree do I want? Usually, the answer is pretty tricky. Some people may like fruit trees because of the benefits they can provide, while others want shade trees to keep the hot sun at bay. Of course, other people may simply want a certain tree to be a focal point of their landscape or garden design. So which type of tree suits you?

The Most Popular Trees for the West

We collected information from up and down the Pacific and put together a list of some of the most popular trees bought, planted, and grown from Seattle to San Diego, Los Angeles to Portland, Boise to the Bay Area, and just about every place in-between.

Growing Trees Indoors

When most of us think about trees, we probably first think about backyards, front lawns, maybe parks or forests, but what you probably don’t think about is indoor trees. There are actually a ton of trees that make for wonderful houseplants. Especially in the West, indoors might actually be the only way for you to grow certain types of trees.

Which Trees Will Suit Your Needs & Your Space

If you live in the mountains of Tennessee, the Appalachian foothills in Alabama, the Outer Banks of the Carolinas or the beaches of Florida or anywhere in-between, the first question you should ask before buying, planting, or growing a tree in your region is: What kind of tree do I want?

Some people seek out drought-tolerant shade trees to block the hot summer sun, while others may be looking for fruit trees because of the benefits they can provide. Of course, other people may want specific trees and shrubs to accent their landscape or garden. So which type of tree suits you?

So which type of tree suits you? Click the image below to learn more about trees that meet your needs.

The Most Popular Trees and Plants for the Southeast

We collected information from across the Southeast and put together a list of some of the most popular trees and plants bought, planted, and grown from Mississippi up to West Virginia, the Carolinas down to Florida, and just about every place in-between.

Click on any of the images below to learn more.

Growing Trees Indoors

When most of us think about trees, we probably first think about backyards, front lawns, maybe parks or forests, but what you probably don’t think about is indoor trees.

There are actually a ton of trees that make for wonderful houseplants. Especially in the hot summers of the southeast, indoors might actually be the only way for you to grow certain types of trees. Click on the image below to learn more.

Looking for a Different Region?

Perhaps our tree guide for the Southeast isn't exactly what you're looking for. Don't worry, we've collected similar information for those of you who may live more in the Northeast region or even in the Midwest.

If you're looking for information on gardening specific to your state or even town, try exploring our USDA Planting Zone page to see exactly which zone you're in.

Which Trees Will Suit Your Needs & Your Space

Regardless of whether or not you call the great plains of South Dakota home or the north side of Chicago, a suburban oasis outside of St. Louis or the backwoods of northern Michigan, the first question you should ask before buying, planting, or growing a tree in your region is: What kind of tree do I want?

Some people seek out drought-tolerant shade trees to block the hot summer sun, while others may be looking for fruit trees because of the benefits they can provide. Of course, other people may want specific trees and shrubs to accent their landscape or garden. So which type of tree suits you?

So which type of tree suits you? Click the image below to learn more about trees that meet your needs.

The Most Popular Trees and Plants for the Midwest

We collected information from across the Midwest and put together a list of three of the most popular trees and plants bought, planted, and grown from Nebraska to Ohio, Indiana to Minnesota, and everywhere in-between.

Click on the image below to learn more.

Growing Trees Indoors

When most of us think about trees, we probably first think about backyards, front lawns, maybe parks or forests, but what you probably don’t think about is indoor trees.

There are actually a ton of trees that make for wonderful houseplants. Especially in the cold winters of the Midwest, indoors might actually be the only way for you to grow certain types of trees. Click on the image below to learn more.

Looking for a Different Region?

Perhaps our tree guide for the Midwest isn't exactly what you're looking for. Don't worry, we've collected similar information for those of you who may live more in the Western region of the U.S. or even in the Northeast.

If you're looking for information on gardening specific to your state or even town, try exploring our USDA Planting Zone page to see exactly which zone you're in.

Which Trees Will Suit Your Needs & Your Space?

If you're in Arizona, New Mexico, or parts of Southern California, Nevada, Utah, or Texas, the first question you should ask before buying, planting, or growing a tree in your region is: What kind of tree do I want?

Usually, the answer is pretty tricky. Some people seek out drought-tolerant shade trees to block the hot desert sun, while others may be looking for fruit trees because of the tasty benefits they can provide. Of course, other people may want specific trees and shrubs to accent their landscape or garden.

So which type of tree suits you? Click the image below to learn more about trees that meet your needs.

The Most Popular Trees and Plants for the Southwest

We collected all the information we could from gardeners in the Southwestern United States and put together a list of some of the most popular trees and plants bought, planted, and grown from West Texas to the Southern California desert, Utah to New Mexico, and just about every place in-between.

Click any of the images below to learn more.

Growing Trees Indoors

When most of us think about trees, we probably first think about backyards, front lawns, maybe parks or forests, but what you probably don’t think about is indoor trees.

There are actually a ton of trees that make for wonderful houseplants. Especially if you live in the Southwest, indoors might actually be the only way for you to grow certain types of these trees. Click on the image below to learn more.

Looking for a Different Region?

Perhaps our tree guide for the Southwest isn't exactly what you're looking for. Don't worry though, we've collected similar information for those of you who live more in the Western region of the U.S. or in the Midwest.

If you're looking for information on gardening specific to your state or even town, try exploring our USDA Planting Zone page to see exactly which zone you're in.

Which Trees Will Suit Your Needs & Your Space

Regardless of whether or not you live in Maine or Delaware, Maryland or New Hampshire, Massachusetts or New Jersey, or any place in-between, the first question you should ask before buying, planting, or growing a tree in your region is: What kind of tree do I want?

Usually, the answer is pretty tricky. Some of you may be looking for specific trees and shrubs to accent your landscape or garden, while others may look for fruit trees to provide the occasional snack. Of course, others may want large shade trees to keep them cool during the warmer months.

So which type of tree suits you? Click the image below to learn more about trees that meet your needs.

The Most Popular Trees for the Northeast

We collected information from the Northeast, up and down the East Coast, and put together a list of top three most popular trees bought, planted, and grown from Bangor to Baltimore, Philadelphia to Providence, New York to Nantucket, and just about every place in-between.

Growing Trees Indoors

When most of us think about trees, we probably first think about backyards, front lawns, maybe parks or forests, but what you probably don’t think about is indoor trees. There are actually a ton of trees that make for wonderful houseplants. Especially in the Northeast, indoors might actually be the only way for you to grow these types of trees.

Looking for a Different Region?

Perhaps our tree guide for the Northeast isn't exactly what you're looking for. No worries, we've collected similar information for those of you who live more in the Midwest region of the U.S. or in the Southeast.

If you're looking for information on gardening specific to your state or even town, try exploring our USDA Planting Zone page to see exactly which zone you're in.

Landscape plants in Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, and Michigan are plentiful. Choosing the best shrubs, trees, and perennials can be overwhelming. Here are some of the best options for upper Midwest gardens based on attractiveness, ease of maintenance and appropriateness for the climate.

Trees

Among the most foundational Michigan, Iowa, Wisconsin, and Minnesota plants for landscaping are trees. Start with a few strategically placed trees and build your garden around them.

River Birch

This smaller accent tree provides visual interest year-round with its flaky white bark. River birch tolerates wet soil that doesn’t drain well.

Northern Catalpa

This is a great urban tree that tolerates many types of soil. Catalpa produces large green leaves, fragrant white flowers, and long seed pods.

Serviceberry

Another good flowering tree for Midwest states, serviceberry is small, produces edible berries, and has good fall color.

Hackberry

This shade tree is underutilized in the home garden. Hackberry grows about 60 feet (18 m) tall with an equal spread. It also feeds native birds.

Kentucky Coffeetree

Despite the name, this tree does grow well in all upper Midwest states. Kentucky Coffeetree is a tall shade tree that tolerates winter salt spray. Choose a male tree to avoid messy seed pods.

Concolor Fir

This attractive evergreen looks similar to blue spruce but is not susceptible to needlecast, a fungal disease. Concolor firs grow up to 50 feet (15 m) tall.

Shrubs

Also important in Iowa, Michigan, Minnesota, and Wisconsin plants in the landscape are shrubs. Lower than trees, they offer opportunities to create focal points, hedges and borders and visual interest.

Serviceberry

Serviceberry makes the list again because you can find shrub varieties with the same edible berries and spring flowers. The tree grows about 25 feet (7.6 m) tall and the shrub six feet (1.8 m).

Common Ninebark

This medium-sized shrub can grow in a variety of tough conditions and soil types. Ninebark produces flowers in spring and berries that attract birds in fall.

Winterberry

Winterberry is a native holly and a great choice for winter color. To get the most berries, be sure you choose a male shrub.

Common Lilac

Although not native, lilac is also not invasive in the Midwest. It is very popular in landscaping for the beautifully-scented spring flowers. Even when not in bloom, lilac is an attractive deciduous shrub you can prune and shape or leave alone to grow large.

Red Chokeberry

This medium, multi-stemmed shrub has something for every season: white spring flowers, green summer foliage, orange to purple-red fall foliage, fall berries, and reddish winter bark.

Perennials

For Midwest flowers, perennials are a great choice. Annuals are nice too, but perennial varieties require less care and will come back year after year.

Butterfly Weed

This is a low maintenance flower for full sun that attracts pollinators with its cheerful clusters of orange flowers. A type of milkweed, butterfly weed is a host plant for monarch butterflies.

Coneflower

Also known as echinacea, coneflower is a tall, tough perennial that is vey easy to grow. Most often seen in purple, you can now find other color forms, like red, orange, and white.

Balloon Flower

This is a lower growing perennial that stays less than about 1.5 feet (0.45 m) tall. Balloon flower is low maintenance and produces striking, star-shaped flowers throughout summer.

Bleeding Heart

For shadier areas, and for a plant that is deer-resistant, choose bleeding heart. The unique flowers are heart shaped with a petal that hangs below, giving this plant its name. They come in pink and white varieties.

Hosta

Hostas are not native to the region, but they are extremely popular in the perennial garden. Hostas come in a wide variety of sizes and foliage colors, are easy to grow, and tolerate shade very well.

For the best Michigan, Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Iowa plants in the landscape, consider these options, and also choose native species whenever possible. Native east north central plants support pollinators and wildlife and also require fewer resources.

Not everyone has a backyard appropriate for a large garden, but almost everyone can keep a container plant. Size is only one of the many advantages of growing plants in containers rather than in the ground. This only works well, however, if you select plants that are happy living in a pot. Gardeners in the West have many choices. Read on for some top options for California or Nevada container gardening.

Container Gardening

Those gardeners complaining about overwhelming backyard gardens might keep in mind that many folk don’t have any dirt to dig. This is especially true in urban environments. That’s one place container gardens fit the bill. Almost anyone has room for a few pots on the back porch, fire escape, or kitchen window sill.

But container gardening can solve other issues as well. For example, those with clay or sandy soil in the backyard can avoid a lot of garden problems by planting a container garden instead. This also works well in wet areas and when it’s best to move plants from one corner of the backyard to another as the seasons change. These are all benefits of considering Nevada or California container gardens.

A Rule for Western Container Gardens

Are you wondering what to put in pots in Nevada? Or the best container plants for Southern California? We’ve got a suggestion for you. The simple essential rule for selecting container plants is the same in the Western states as for the rest of the world: Select plants that will thrive in the climate and exposure you can provide.

You can go with vegetables (some gardeners grow all their veggies in pots!), annuals, or perennials, depending on whether you want a container garden for one season or to last years.

What to Plant in a Container Garden?

For spring and summer planting, here are a few of the most popular annual container plants to consider: lobelia, marigold, petunias, verbena, and zinnia. If your area is shaded, put in impatiens. If you are thinking of veggies, go for cherry tomatoes or popular herbs like parsley and basil. Note that while these are among the best container plants for California, these annuals can be grown almost anywhere in pots.

Perennials

Choosing perennials will mean that your container gardens last longer and can provide delight year after year. Some great flowering perennials to consider are marguerite, agapanthus, carnation, geraniums, and chrysanthemums. For spring bulb planting, think about tulips, daffodil, amaryllis, crocus, freesia, hyacinth, iris, and ranunculus. Most will regrow year after year when properly fertilized.

Vegetables

If you are putting in a fall vegetable container garden, try planting cool season leafy greens like kale and lettuce, or radishes, garlic, and chives. For ornamentals, consider stocks, snapdragons, pansies, violas, dianthus, ornamental kale, and ornamental cabbage.

Fruit Trees

Are fruit trees among the best outdoor potted plants for Southern California and Nevada? While dwarf fruit trees and shrubs can be planted in containers in the West, they are not one-and-done. These plants grow fast and should only be left in the same container for short periods before being moved to progressively bigger ones or transplanted into the ground.

What About California Natives?

Many gardeners in the West are trying to focus on native plants. These are trees, shrubs and grasses that grow naturally in the wild and provide native birds and insects with the food and shelter they need to survive. They tend to be extremely self-sufficient and require little care from humans.

While many native plants of Nevada and California will grow well in containers, they will need more care than when they grow in soil. But that is the downside of all container plants: since they only have the soil in the pot to sustain them, they may require regular water and even fertilizer in containers, even if they need nothing in the wild.

For example, some succulents work well in pots, including Cacti, Agaves, Sedums, Dudleyas, and Lewisias. Many offer fascinating long flowers in unexpected shades. But unlike ground-grown succulents, you’ll need to change their soil and plant in a larger pot every few years.

Many gardeners find working outdoors is made more enjoyable by the array of bird songs that fill the air. Yet, did you know that some native birds of Northeast America are beneficial to the garden, while others can be detrimental? Being able to identify which birds are visiting the garden, helps gardeners determine whether or not they should be attracting or deterring these creatures.

Beneficial Birds: Northeast America

Our feathered friends help gardeners in many ways. Some birds consume the bugs and insects which plague our plants, and many birds are important pollinators. Seed-eating species can help us cut down on our weeding chores, especially when we've been a bit negligent in removing weeds before they mature and set seeds.

Bluebirds

These beautiful blue feathered insectivores sport a red breast and white belly. A portion of the bluebird's diet includes poke and sumac berries.

Cardinals

Male cardinals are easily recognized by their brilliant red plumage. They eat insects, grasses and tree buds as well as serviceberries, mulberries, elderberries and poison ivy berries.

Downy Woodpeckers

Gardeners can often spot these black and white birds by following the sound of their drumming as they forage for beetles, caterpillars and ants. Woodpeckers don't harm trees, but they can damage houses, barns and other wood structures.

Goldfinches

The brilliant yellow feathers of this species make it one of the most recognizable small birds of northeast states. There are several species of finches which populate the Northeast and their diets primarily consist of small seeds.

Ruby-Throated Hummingbirds

Known for their fast wing speed and long slender bills, the Ruby-throated hummingbird is not only an excellent pollinator but these tiny birds also consume flies, gnats and aphids.

Song Sparrows

As one of the many indigenous species of sparrows that inhabit the New England states, song sparrows consume many harmful insects including weevils, leaf beetles, and midges. In the winter, these brown and white striped birds feed on grass and weed seeds.

Common New England Birds That Damage Gardens

Most of the following birds have bad reputations from farmers and gardeners for eating flower buds and crops. Yet, it's important to remember that in addition to snacking on your fruits and veggies, these birds consume a large number of invertebrate garden pests.

Blue Jays

These vibrantly blue feathered birds eat caterpillars, beetles and grasshoppers, but a portion of their diet also includes berries and nuts. Protect your ripe cherries, blueberries and strawberries when these birds visit your garden.

Crows

Weighing in at about 1 pound (0.45 kg), crows are easily identified by their large size and glossy black plumage. Although crows eat grubs, caterpillars and armyworms, they will also snack on corn seedlings, fruits and vegetables.

Cowbirds

So named for their tendency to follow cows and consume the insects that get stirred up as the cattle graze, cowbirds will also damage crops like sorghum, millet, and rice. Male cowbirds are the easiest to identify by their black bodies and brown heads.

Grackles

Identified by their iridescent plumage in shades of black, purple or bronze, grackles love corn. They will not only eat the kernels, but also pull up the seedlings in the spring.

Red-Winged Blackbirds

These harbingers of spring damage commercial crops like oats, sorghum, wheat and rice, but can also be a problem for backyard gardeners growing corn and sunflowers. The females are a mottled brown color, but the males are easily identified by their black plumage and red shoulder patches.

Robins

As one of the most identifiable birds in the garden, robins eat a variety of ground dwelling harmful insects. Unfortunately, these red breasted birds can easily desecrate a blueberry or strawberry crop. They also like cherries and raspberries.

Other Common Birds of the Northeast

As many as 400 species of birds reside year round, overwinter or migrate through New England and the Northeast US states. It's unlikely every species will visit your garden, but here a few more birds you might spot in the backyard:

• American Yellow Warbler
• Baltimore Oriole
• Black Capped Chickadee
• Cedar Waxwing
• Gray Catbird
• Mourning Dove
• Tufted Titmouse
• White Breasted Nuthatch

Most lawn maintenance chores coincide with the mowing season. If you live in Florida, lawn care can be a year-round task. Luckily, most other Southeast gardeners are able to take a break during the winter. Yet, no matter how many months of the year you tend the yard, proper lawn care is essential to grow lush, green turf in Southeastern US states.

Proper Mowing is Key to Success

Cutting the grass at the right time and correct height is the first step toward a beautiful lawn, and it's something many homeowners overlook. The temptation to cut the grass on a schedule or clip it too short can damage the turf. It may help to view the lawn as a garden composed of thousands of grass plants. Just like the prize roses in the flower bed, proper “pruning” results in healthier plants.

To maintain a lush lawn and prevent southern lawn weeds from overtaking the yard, it's recommended that no more than the top third of grass blades are removed when mowing. Thus, if you have a species of grass which needs cut to a 2 inch (5 cm) height, the optimal time to cut the grass is when it's no more than 3 inches (7.6 cm) tall. Unfortunately, this doesn't always fall on Saturday afternoon.

The proper height to cut the lawn will depend upon the species of grass in your yard. Grass seed for southern lawns can be either warm-season or cold-season species. Warm-season grass perks up later in the spring and grows best during the hot, dry summer months. Cool-season species grow best in the spring and fall, but go dormant and may die during Southeastern summers.

Your local extension agent is your best source for information concerning which type of grass to plant or how high to cut the species of grass you already have. These professionals can also assist with soil tests. The results can determine which type of fertilizer for Southern lawns is right for you.

Watering a Southeast Lawn

Like mowing, watering the lawn at the right time and in the correct manner leads to greener, healthier turf. Remember that during dry spells, it may not be necessary to irrigate warm-season grass like bermuda or zoysia grass. These species will go dormant and turn brown, but will bounce back when more frequent rain showers return.

In Southern US gardening states, cool-season lawns are more likely to suffer damage or perish without supplemental water during dry spells. For either type of turf, water deeply to encourage longer roots and only when your lawn is showing signs of drought stress:

Color

If your lawn has changed from green to a bluish-green color, it's exhibiting the first signs of drought stress.

Visible footprints

If walking across the lawn leaves footprints, then the grass is lacking proper hydration and needs to be watered.

Screwdriver test

Push a screwdriver through the sod and into the soil. The more difficult it is to push the screwdriver into the ground, the drier the soil. This test can also be performed after irrigation to determine how deep the water has penetrated the soil.

Lawn Care Schedule: Southeast Region

Although mowing and watering frequencies vary throughout the seasons, these additional lawn maintenance tasks can be scheduled for your convenience:

Fertilizing

If you only feed the lawn once per year, fertilize warm-season grass in late spring and cool-season species in the fall. Choose a fertilizer with a high nitrogen level, such as 4-1-2. Leaving grass clippings on the lawn can return over 50% of nitrogen to the turf and reduce fertilizer needs.

Aerating

Coring can be performed annually when the lawn is actively growing. This process removes small plugs of dirt and allows the lawn to better absorb nutrients and water. Aerate warm-season grass prior to fertilizing in late spring and cool-season species in the fall.

Thatch

Proper lawn maintenance, including not over-fertilizing, can often prevent thatch build-up. Small areas can be hand-raked, but a rented power rake can quickly de-thatch the entire yard. Perform this task when the grass is actively growing to help the lawn recover quickly.

California and Nevada share a state border, but they don’t host exactly the same wild bird populations. That’s in part due to the location – one state is coastal, the other not – and in part due to the difference in climate.

California, with its long coastline, is a major stop along the Pacific Flyway for spring migration and offers myriad habitats for these “snow birds.” Around a billion birds migrate through in springtime on their way north. Gardeners can help these migrating species by using plants native to California and Nevada in their gardens. These migratory species include common types of songbirds, raptors and flycatchers, and might be among your favorite California backyard birds.

The backyard birds of Nevada are more likely to stay in the region all year long, but species vary among the different ecosystems. The deserts in eastern Nevada offer food and nesting material to different wild birds than the pine forests of the south.

Backyard Birds Of California

If you are just starting out birdwatching, here are some common backyard birds in California.

American Robin

This might not be the most common California birds, but it is certainly one of the best recognized. The robin-red-breast is known for its bright red chest area, its pretty chatter, and its rich songs. Bird baths are a great way to attract robins to your yard.

Cedar Waxwing

Here’s a pretty California bird that is easy to recognize, although its name is less well-known than the robin. The waxwing is unique – starting with its black mask, tan feathers, and crested head.

The red, waxlike droplets on their inner wing feathers give it its common name. If you have native fruiting trees in your area, you’ll see happy groups of waxwings descending on overripe berries in winter. Berry-bearing shrubs are favorites of waxwings.

Oak Titmouse

Do you want to identify an oak titmouse? Look for a small, gray bird with an unimposing crest on its head. You’ll find them easily in oak woodlands. These backyard birds of California chatter, offering rapid calls as they search for insects for lunch.

It sounds something like peter-peter-peter. Titmice are attracted to a birdfeeder that includes suet or seeds and you can create a backyard bird sanctuary by including things like bird baths and native shrubs.

Goldfinch

You’ve never seen yellow until you spot a goldfinch. Both lesser goldfinch and the bigger American goldfinch have spectacular yellow feathers.

According to birding lore, if the first bird you see on January 1st is a goldfinch, get ready for a year of joy and good fortune! Attract them to your feeder by offering them nyjer seeds, best served up in a nyjer seed-feeder.

Anna’s Hummingbird

Attach a bright-colored hummingbird feeder to a window or tree branch and see what happens. The pretty little birds darting over to sip the sugary water will likely be a species of Anna’s hummingbird. Planting flowering vines for hummingbirds is another great way to attract them to your yard.

These California birds vary in color depending on their sex: females have subdued coloring and a little drab while the males are little iridescent jewels, bright green with a brilliant pink-reddish mark on the throat.

Crowned Sparrows

Winters in California are quite mild, and this attracts migrating bird species. Two species that leave northern areas and head to California to winter are the “crowned sparrows”: white-crowned and golden-crowned sparrows. The adults are tan or gray. They have brown backs with black stripes, and they also have distinct crown patterns.

The white-crowned sparrow has white and black stripes on the top of the head, while the golden-crowned sparrow has a black crown with a golden central area. Attracting birds to your backyard can be done with a simple bird feeder and a bird bath. Crowned sparrows are fond of millet.

Allen's Hummingbird

Another very common California bird is the jewel-toned Allen's hummingbird, tiny fliers with brilliant reddish orange throats. They winter in Mexico but return to coastal California in early spring to delight us with their elaborate courting ritual. There is a small resident population in Southern California year-round.

Western Scrub Jay

One you are likely to see at your backyard feeder is the long-tailed western scrub jay, seen often in California coastal areas and foothills. Assertive, inquisitive, and vocal, California scrub jays eat insects, fruits, seeds and acorns, hiding the latter away for winter consumption.

They are less popular with other birds, however, since they also like to rob nests and consume eggs and young birds.

Cooper's Hawk

The Cooper's hawk is the most common hawk in California, but it may not be one of the most common in your backyard. They live in woodlands throughout the state, but are secretive. Look for their long trails and rounded wings as they hunt from the air above the edge of a forest or field for robins, doves and small mammals. You can attract these birds of prey, but they might eat the smaller birds at your feeders.

Chestnut-Backed Chickadees

Set out suet or seeds, and you may see chestnut-backed chickadees year-round in coastal California's coniferous forests as well as forest habitats in the central Sierra Nevada and suburban areas in eastern San Francisco Bay. They are merry and sociable, foraging in flocks of other species as well as their own.

Backyard Birds Of Nevada

Here are some common backyard birds you might spot in Nevada.

Dark-Eyed Juncos

There are over 600 million dark-eyed juncos in North America, making them one of the most abundant songbirds. They are the classic “snowbirds,” appearing across the country – including Nevada – as winter temperatures start dropping.

A common subspecies has a black or gray hood that contrasts with the brown back. You are likely to see juncos ground feeding. Watch for the flash of their white tail feathers as they seek cover and listen for their ticking calls.

Spotted Towhee

The male spotted towhee has a black hood, breast and back and chestnut sides. The bird’s body is spotted with bold white spots and its belly is also white. The female has the same coloring but slightly less bold.

Spotted towhees can be attracted to feeders by putting out black sunflower seeds, hulled sunflower seeds, cracked corn, or millet. Otherwise, they are largely ground feeders.

Pine Siskin

Nevada – especially southern Nevada – has lots of pine siskin birds. These small finches are brown and black with pointed bills and notched tails. Males have yellow on the wings. Pine siskins need smaller seeds like nyjer seeds or thistle. They are also attracted to hulled sunflower seeds and suet.

Chestnut-Collared Longspur

One Nevada bird you may see in summer in short-grass prairies is the chestnut-collared longspur. The male’s breeding plumage is exceptional, with black, brown, and buff stripes on the back and two pale wing bars and a white shoulder patch.

Harris's Sparrow

Another common Nevada bird is Harris’s sparrow, a large, plump sparrow with distinctive markings including streaked reddish brown back and reddish brown wings with two white wing bars and a pink bill. They form flocks with other sparrow species.

Frequently Asked Questions

It's commonplace for gardeners in the Ohio Valley region and Central gardening states to see or hear birds while they’re working in the garden. Several species of Midwest birds like robins, blue jays and cardinals are easy to identify. Others may be more difficult. Read on to learn how to spot them all.

Common Central US Birds

For those curious about these backyard visitors, here is a breakdown of the most populous birds in this region.

Blackbirds

Many members of the Icteridae family are found throughout the Ohio Valley region. Although most species of blackbirds have dark plumage, some like the orange and black Baltimore oriole are brightly colored. This family also includes the red-winged blackbird, European starling, common grackle, brown-headed cowbird and eastern meadowlark.

Ducks and Geese

If you live near a lake, pond or creek, you're likely to find these web footed species crossing the lawn. Mallard ducks and Canada geese are the most visible. Other common water-loving birds you might spot include the American coot, sandhill crane and trumpeter swan.

Finches

These small colorful songbirds have short, conical beaks and the males are more brightly colored than the females. Of the 17 native species in the US, the brilliant yellow plumage of the American Goldfinch makes it one of the most easily identifiable birds in the Midwest. Other species you might spot include the House Finch and Purple Finch.

Gulls

Midwesterners may live miles from the nearest ocean, but spotting flocks of ring-billed seagulls in parking lots is a common sight. These scavengers love the trash that shoppers leave behind. If you live near one of the Great Lakes, you might also catch sight of an American herring gull.

Owls

Although several species of these nocturnal raptors are found throughout the Ohio Valley region, gardeners are more likely to hear owls in the evening than spot them during the day. Species to listen for include barn owls, great horned owls and screech owls.

Raptors

Gardeners are most likely to see raptors soaring overhead on warm, sunny afternoons. These predatory birds have keen eyesight and hooked bills for hunting and sharp talons for holding onto prey. In the Midwest popular species include red-tailed hawks, Cooper's hawks and turkey vultures.

Sparrows

Song sparrows top the list of small birds native to Ohio Valley regions. Like most sparrow species, these vibrant singers have variations of brown, cream and light gray plumage. Other species you will likely spot hopping around the garden include the white-throated sparrow and the American tree sparrow. Although quite common, the house sparrow is a non-native species.

Warblers

Primarily a migratory species, several of these songbirds call the Central states home during the summer. The chestnut-streaked, lemon-yellow plumage of the American yellow warbler is a common sight throughout the region. Other popular species include the blackburnian warbler, cerulean warbler and the magnolia warbler.

Woodpeckers

The distinctive tap-tap-tap of these insect-seeking birds creates the perfect background rhythm for gardening. Follow the sound and Midwest gardeners will likely spot a downy woodpecker, hairy woodpecker or red-bellied woodpecker. These species all bear black and white striped plumage on their wings with differing amounts of red on their heads.

Wrens

Most gardeners welcome these insect-seeking birds in Ohio Valley backyards. Wrens search for food at ground-level and often consume common garden pests such as flies, moths, caterpillars, grasshoppers, mosquitoes and snails. The Carolina wren is among the most popular species in the Midwest, but spotting this reddish-brown bird may be difficult as they are notoriously shy.

Growing vegetables in the Pacific Northwest can be challenging due to varying temperatures and weather conditions. The Pacific Northwest is a large region. This means that the best vegetables to grow in Washington state may not be the best vegetables to grow in Oregon. That said, the following contains general information on vegetable gardening in the Pacific Northwest along with some of the easiest vegetables to grow in the area.

How Long is the Growing Season in the Pacific Northwest?

The growing season for Washington state starts around March 24th and lasts until November 17th -- a total of 238 days. In Oregon, the growing season is significantly shorter at only 125 days between the last and first frost. Keep in mind that the length of the growing season can be wildly different depending on whether you are on the west or east side of either of these two states.

The Pacific Northwest is the northwestern portion of the United States encompassing Oregon, Washington state, and continuing up into British Columbia in Canada. This broad area includes rainforests, coastal regions along the Pacific Ocean, mountain ranges, arid high desert zones, and river valleys. Altitude, topography, and geographical location all determine the growing season for each area, which means it can vary significantly from one region to another.

Generally, however, the Pacific Northwest is said to have cool summers and mild winters in most areas. This means that starting seeds indoors and choosing short season veggies are recommended. A bonus to the temperate climate is that cold frames and greenhouses allow the gardener to significantly extend the growing season.

Vegetables Recommended for the Pacific Northwest

The easiest vegetables to grow in the Pacific Northwest are cool season crops. Cool weather vegetables that can be grown from seed include greens of any type, radishes, beans, garlic, onions, peas, and root veggies like carrots, turnips, and beets.

Onion and garlic can go in as early as late February, and radishes can be directly sown a month before the last frost date for your area. Beets, carrots, and new potatoes go in around a couple of weeks after the radishes. Bigger potato varieties shouldn’t go in until the last frost date.

Another allium that does beautifully in the Pacific Northwest is leeks. Leeks can be directly sown outdoors or started inside for fall and winter harvest. Leeks should be ready about 70 days from sowing.

Other cool weather veggies that thrive in this region are cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kale, cabbage, and collards. Kale can be sown directly into the garden in the late spring, but cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli should be started inside and then transplanted in mid to late spring when they have their first set of true leaves; about six to eight weeks from sowing.

Peas should go in a month before the last frost date for your area although make sure the soil is fairly dry as this crop is susceptible to rotting. Beans should be sown directly into the garden in the late spring after the last frost date and when temperatures have warmed.

Heat loving plants are better grown from starts -- the bigger the better. These include cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and melons. In this instance the smaller sized varieties do better than larger sized varieties so choose lemon or Persian cukes, cherry tomatoes, or tiny Thai peppers if you want to guarantee you will have a harvest before the first frost. Plan to plant these when temperatures rise in May to June.

Tips On Vegetable Gardening in the Pacific Northwest

Vegetables need sun -- at least six hours preferably more, so site accordingly. The Pacific Northwest is known for being quite wet in the spring in some areas, so make sure you are planting in well-draining soil or into a raised bed.

Since the growing season is relatively short, all gardeners will benefit from protecting crops from cool temps in the spring or for a second harvest in the fall with cloches, row covers, greenhouses, or even black plastic mulch to warm the soil temp. Also, if buying warm weather crops, be sure to select the largest transplants you can find.

Always look at the length of time to harvest on your seed packets. This will tell you if a particular variety of say, bean, is right for this area of the Pacific Northwest. Also talk to friends, neighbors, relatives, and nursery personnel about the tried and true varieties they’ve planted. Your local extension office can also give advice and likely even has a pamphlet or online information regarding recommendations.

Remember, planting dates aren't set in stone. Keep your eye on the weather forecast and adjust accordingly in the event of impending inclement weather.

Invasive plants are species that are not native to a region and that cause harm to the local ecosystem. For instance, they outcompete native plants, limit food resources to wildlife, or even emit toxins that prevent other plants from growing. There are several invasive plants in Wisconsin, Michigan, Minnesota, and Iowa, but read about these that are some of the worst.

East North Central Invasive Plants

Phragmites

There are several wetland invasive species in Iowa, Michigan, Wisconsin, and Minnesota. Among the most insidious in these natural areas is phragmites (Phragmites australis). It is an impressive plant, growing up to 13 feet (4 m) tall with a feathery, purplish inflorescence at the top of the stalks.

There is a native subspecies, but an invasive one has taken over many marshes, ponds, and wetlands throughout the Midwest. The invasive subspecies is P. australis australis. The introduced subspecies forms denser stands. It outcompetes other plants and creates vast monocultures.

Another issue with invasive phragmites is that they tend to hold onto dead stalks from previous seasons. These linger in place and present fire hazards. Control of this subspecies is challenging and usually requires a permit to use chemicals followed by mowing. If you have phragmites on your property, be sure it is the invasive subspecies before attempting control.

Garlic Mustard

Among invasive Wisconsin plants, and other Midwest states, garlic mustard is one of the most persistent. Alliaria petiolate is native to the woodlands of Europe and is well adapted to Midwestern woods. Early settlers brought it over for its edible and medicinal properties.

It grows very well here, emerging earlier in the spring than many native species, producing hundreds or thousands of seeds per plant, and creating dense stands that completely crowd out native wildflowers. The monoculture that can develop where garlic mustard grows harms wildlife by limiting food resources.

Garlic mustard has toothed, heart-shaped leaves and small white flowers on stems that grow two to four feet (0.6 to 1.2 m) tall. If you see these in your garden, pull them up in spring before they can produce seeds. Effective control takes years of effort because the seeds can survive for about seven years in the ground.

Giant Hogweed

Among invasive plants of the upper Midwest that can actually harm people is giant hogweed. Heracleum mantegazzianum is native to Asia. Its impressive size and appearance brought it to Europe and the U.S. as a unique ornamental. Giant hogweed can grow as tall as 20 feet (6 m). It grows tiny white flowers in umbrella-like clusters, much like Queen Anne’s lace.

What really makes giant hogweed problematic is its sap. It contains a photosensitive substance that activates in sunlight, causing a severe rash called photo-dermatitis. The rash can be very painful and cause blistering. If you think you might have come into contact with giant hogweed, it is essential to change clothing and wash your skin immediately.

This plant can unknowingly cause harm because it looks a lot like less insidious species, including cow parsley, Queen Anne’s lace, angelica, and wild parsnip. Make careful comparisons before handling a plant that resembles giant hogweed. Don’t try to remove it yourself. Contact your local extension office for advice and assistance.

Common Buckthorn

Native to Europe and Asia, common buckthorn has taken over many areas of the Midwest that would normally host a diversity of native shrubs. Rhamnus cathartica was brought to North America as an ornamental but now is well naturalized.

Common buckthorn outcompetes other native shrubs that produce nutritious berries and fruits that birds and other wildlife eat. Buckthorn also produces a lot of berries, but they are low in nutrition. This results in harm to wildlife but also contributes to its spread as birds eat the berries and distribute seeds.

Invasive buckthorn is a large shrub with simple green leaves with prominent, parallel veins. The male and female flowers grow on different shrubs. The berries on female plants are small, round, and purplish-black. The twigs have thorns at the tips.

Because it grows large and densely, buckthorn can be difficult to control. It’s best to fully remove smaller shrubs. For larger shrubs, you can cut them down to the ground and use a recommended herbicide to prevent regrowth.

While these are some of the worst, invasive plants of the upper Midwest are numerous. Learn what is listed as invasive in your state and area and watch for them in your garden and favorite natural areas.

Note: Any recommendations pertaining to the use of chemicals are for informational purposes only. Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and more environmentally friendly.

California is lucky enough to house some 5,000 native plant species, giving it the greatest natural botanical diversity of any state. But it also has 1,500 non-native species that have become established here. More than a few of these are important invasive species of California. Nevada is also a western state with abundant native flora and some invasive non-natives too.

Non-Native Species in California

Invasive has a specific meaning when it comes to plants. It refers to plants that are normally not found in the wild in a particular region but have been introduced and naturalized there. These plants are not just passing through; they can survive and reproduce indefinitely in the new location without any human assistance.

If you cultivate non-native, naturalized plants in your garden and they remain there, they do not pose a problem. The ones that can do significant damage are those that spread away from their initial planting location and spread into wild areas or natural habitat. They are termed invasive because they “invade” and disrupt natural ecosystems.

Economic Damage of California Invasive Species

California invasive plants are a real threat to the state’s economy. Some invasive grasses of California endanger natural forage and reduce the quality of grass consumed by livestock. This can jeopardize animal health, which leads to human health issues as well.

Invasive grasses can also increase fire risks in California. Invasive aquatic weeds can impede access to water sources for livestock, impair the movement and navigation of private and commercial vessels, and block irrigation systems.

Ecological Damage of California Invasive Species

Invasive plants also endanger and damage California’s ecology in natural areas, causing dramatic changes that have a detrimental effect on both natural flora and wildlife. These plants are more adaptable than desired native species, which lets them move into a natural landscape and essentially take it over.

California invasive plants exhaust the region’s natural resources, including light, water, and nutrients. For example, the giant reed (Arundo donax) has infested the Santa Ana River in Southern California and uses 57,000 acre feet more water annually than the native vegetation used. They can also alter the fertility of the soil, promote soil erosion, and colonize mudflats crucial for the survival of shorebirds.

In addition, invasive non-native plants are detrimental to native insects, which are used to feeding on specific native plants. As the native plants are crowded out, the insect population diminishes and birds and reptiles are left without a primary source of nutrition.

The worst offenders are termed landscape transformers, since they cause substantial changes to the invaded habitat. These include saltcedar, (Tamarix ramosissima) and yellow starthistle (Centaurea solstitialis).

Invasive Species in Nevada

Of course, California does not have a monopoly on invasive plants. There are similar invasive species in Nevada that impact the landscape the same way that California invasive species do.

Non-native invasive plants are difficult to control in both California and Nevada. Their harmful impact is far reaching and they can damage the West economically and environmentally. Some of the worst offenders in Nevada include salt cedar, cheatgrass, knapweed, musk thistle, perennial pepperwood, and hoary cress. Many are threats to pastures and rangeland, out-competing native species.

The upper Midwest states of Minnesota, Michigan, Wisconsin, and Iowa span USDA zone 6, zone 5, zone 4, and just a little bit of zone 3 in northern Minnesota. This means there is a wide variety of Midwest garden vegetables to choose from that will thrive here.

The Best Vegetables to Grow in Wisconsin, Michigan, Iowa, and Minnesota

There is some variation by USDA zone, but in general, you can successfully grow all these vegetables in the upper Midwest states:

• Asparagus
• Beans
• Beets
• Broccoli
• Brussels Sprouts
• Cabbage
• Cauliflower
• Carrots
• Celery
• Corn
• Cucumbers
• Eggplant
• Garlic
• Greens
• Lettuce
• Onions
• Peas
• Peppers
• Potatoes
• Pumpkins
• Radishes
• Spinach
• Squash, Summer and Winter
• Swiss chard
• Tomatoes

The Best Vegetables to Grow in Minnesota’s North

Northern Minnesota vegetable gardening can be a little tricker than in other areas. This is the coldest part of the upper Midwest states. Most of the state is in zone 4, but the northern reaches are in zone 3.

You can still grow warm season vegetables like tomatoes and peppers. Their growing season will be shorter for zone 3 gardens, but you can still get a harvest.

For the best results, take advantage of the vegetables that thrive in colder weather or have shorter growing seasons:

• Beans
• Beets
• Carrots
• Corn
• Kale
• Lettuces
• Onions
• Potatoes
• Radishes
• Spinach
• Swiss chard
• Summer squash and zucchini
• Winter squashes

Tips for Successful Midwest Vegetable Gardens

Once you have selected vegetables to grow, a successful garden is a matter of timing and maintenance. Here are some expert tips suited to Midwest vegetable beds:

Choose the Right Varieties.

Among the many vegetables you can grow in the upper Midwest, there are many, many cultivars. Do some research before purchasing plants or seeds. Some varieties are better suited to colder climates than others.

Start with Seeds.

Veggie gardening can be inexpensive if you start with seeds, but be sure to buy high-quality products. You can also save seeds from year to year to spend even less on your garden. Trade and share seeds with neighbors.

Start Indoors.

With a shorter growing season than other regions, consider starting vegetable seeds indoors. Use starter trays and transplant outdoors when the weather and soil are ready. With this strategy, you can grow more veggies with longer times to maturity.

Check Frost Dates.

Last spring frost dates vary quite a bit across the Midwest. Check the dates for your exact location and avoid planting before this date. Exceptions include cold-hardy vegetables and cultivars.

Plant by Season.

Save your warm weather plants for the middle of the growing season. Plant cool weather veggies in both spring and fall for two harvests.

Use Cold Frames.

Another way to extend your harvest in a colder region is to use a cold frame. These are like miniature green houses that allow you to start plants sooner in spring or grow them later in fall.

Use Successive Plantings.

Another way to get more out of your growing season is with successive plantings. This means starting seeds a couple weeks apart, so you get successive harvests throughout the season. For a region with a shorter growing season, this works best with plants that have a short time to maturity, like lettuces, greens, and radishes.

Water and Weed.

This is true for any vegetable garden everywhere: you must weed and water often. Get on top of weeds right away and keep pulling them regularly. Water plants daily if it isn’t raining, but don’t let the ground get soggy.

Midwest vegetable gardening has some challenges. Early fall and late spring frosts can take you by surprise, and sometimes it feels like you can’t grow anything here. Yet, with the right choice of vegetables and good timing, you can grow a plethora of food in your backyard.

The answer to many questions one may ask about plants is “native plants.” For example, what to look for if you want drought tolerant plants? Native plants. What types of plants require little maintenance? Native plants.

If you live in the West and are looking for easy to grow plants that require very little irrigation, you cannot do better than native California and Nevada plants.

Bulletproof Plants in California

Are you looking to plant low maintenance, drought tolerant plants in California? Native California plants are your best bet. But be sure you pick low maintenance, drought tolerant plants that thrive in your particular ecosystem. For even more guarantees, select native plants termed "bulletproof." This means that the plants are infinitely tolerant. They do just fine with heat, cold and wind, need little water, are low-maintenance, non-invasive, and pest and disease resistant.

If you live in a hot, desert region in California, select bulletproof native desert plants from the area.

Here are a few trees you may want to try:

• Cat's Claw acacia (Acacia greggii)
• Blue palo verde (Parkinsonia florida)
• Escarpment oak (Quercus fusiformis)
• Chilean mesquite (Prosopis chilensis)
• Desert willow (Chilopsis linearis + hybrids)
• Chaste tree (Vitex agnus-castus)

For shrubs, consider these bulletproof bushes:

• Arizona rosewood (Vauquelinia californica)
• Quail bush (Atriplex lentiformis)
• Brittlebush (Encelia farinosa)
• Fern bush (Chamaebatiaria millefolium)

Plants for Nevada Bird Gardens

Every gardener has their own priorities. Some put drought tolerance first on the list. Others want plants that remove CO2 from the air. Still others select plants in order to attract more birds to their landscape.

If your top backyard priority is attracting wildlife, native plants still offer the most bang for the buck to help birds, pollinators, and other wildlife. Native plants, of course, have other attractions, like requiring less water, less maintenance, and less fertilizer. They are also cold hardy and well accustomed to the Nevada climate.

Here are three plants that fit the bill:

• Virginia Creeper ​(Parthenocissus quinquefolia) is a woody vine that grows fast. Its green leaves turn a brilliant red in fall. In early summer, the vine is filled with dark berries that birds, squirrels and deer adore.
• Wild geranium (Geranium viscosissimum) is a native flowering perennial that has blossoms in pink, lavender or magenta that attract native pollinators like butterflies, bees, and flies. Both the wild geranium seed capsules and the leaves of this plant are popular among birds, small mammals, deer, and others.
• Desert Marigold (​Baileya multiradiata) is a short-lived perennial with bright yellow, daisy-like flowers that rise from a leafless stalk to bloom throughout the summer and fall. Their long-lasting blooms can reach one foot in height, turning papery with age. Birds feast on their ripe seeds and help disperse them to other parts of your garden.

Plants for Drought-Tolerant Gardens

For gardeners in the West, drought has proved to be a real and ongoing problem. Water has been restricted in many regions and everyone is interested in drought-tolerant plants. Here are some top choices to consider.

• Achillea is well-known to many gardeners as a reliable mid-summer bloomer with standout yellow flowers. These yarrow plants are extremely water wise and in fact require little or no maintenance at all. The blossoms are a magnet for butterflies and beneficial insects.
• Chrysocephalum apiculatum is a low-growing strawflower with attractive silver foliage and yellow flowers. The flowers arrive in spring a bright yellow and keep their hue as they dry. They are very drought-tolerant plants.
• Mimulus is a happy, shrubby California native perennial with bright flowers in a rainbow of colors. Happy in sun or part shade, these plants need good drainage but little water. They are popular in native plant gardens because of their color range.

Many non-native species of plants were originally introduced as beautiful ornamentals for residential and commercial landscaping throughout Central gardening states. While many species are well behaved, some escaped into natural areas. Invasive plants in Illinois and other Ohio Valley states have damaged the ecosystem by crowding out native species and reducing biodiversity.

Invasive Trees in the Ohio Valley

Invasive species of trees don't provide the same food and shelter as native species. For instance, wild Bradford pear trees (Pyrus calleryana) don't host caterpillars, which many species of birds use to feed their young. When these trees overtake an area, bird populations can decline. This loss of biodiversity continues as it affects other species up the food chain.

Here are three more trees listed as invasive species in West Virginia and other Ohio Valley states:

• Norway maple (Acer platanoides)
• Tree of heaven (Ailanthus altissima)
• Princess tree (Paulownia tomentosa)

Invasive Shrubs in the Central Garden Region

Invasive shrubs often grow faster and are more competitive than native plants. These create monocultures which block the sunlight for other species. One example is the Autumn Olive (Elaeagnus umbellata). This invasive species can grow 6 feet (2 m) in a year and quickly reach a mature height and width of 15 feet (5 m). Autumn Olives spread by producing an abundance of fruit and are difficult to eradicate once established.

There are a number of shrubs considered highly invasive plants in Tennessee and the Ohio Valley region. Here are a few to avoid:

• Amur honeysuckle (Lonicera maackii)
• Burning bush (Euonymus alatus)
• Chinese privet (Ligustrum sinense)
• Wine raspberry (Rubus phoenicolasius)
• Multiflora rose (Rosa multiflora)

Invasive Flowers in Midwest Gardens

Once planted for their beautiful blooms, some species of ornamental flowers have escaped garden borders and invaded meadows, waterways, and roadsides. As an example, Dame's Rocket (Hesperis matronalis) was introduced in the 1600s and has naturalized across many Midwest states. Easily confused with Garden Phlox (Phlox paniculata), gardeners might mistakenly believe Dame's Rocket is a native species.

In the Midwest, there are several invasive flowering species which have overtaken natural areas and can also be mistaken for native plants:

• Birdsfoot trefoil (Lotus corniculatus)
• Flowering rush (Butomus umbellatus)
• Oxeye daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare)
• Purple loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria)
• Yellow flag iris (Iris pseudacorus)

Vining Invasive Plants in Indiana and Central States

Labeled as invasive in many states, English ivy (Hedera helix) was brought to the U.S. by colonists and is a popular groundcover throughout the Midwest. Unfortunately, this vining plant is difficult to control and has readily naturalized in both open and wooded areas.

Due to the way they grow, it can be particularly difficult to prevent some types of vining plants and groundcovers from spreading into unwanted areas. Here are a few that become problematic in the Ohio Valley region:

• Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis)
• Crown vetch (Coronilla varia)
• Periwinkle (Vinca minor)
• Sweet autumn clematis (Clematis terniflora)
• Wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei)

Grasses Labeled as Midwest and Ohio Invasive Plants

Ornamental grasses add color, texture, and vertical appeal to landscaped beds, but some species are quite adaptive to the Ohio Valley climate. For example, Chinese maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensis) was introduced in the U.S. in the late 1800s and became one of the most popular types of ornamental grass. Spread by both windblown seeds and underground rhizomes, this species has naturalized in several states.

Other grass species were introduced as turf grass or pasture fodder for livestock, such as tall fescue (Schedonorus arundinaceus). Brought to the U.S. in the early 1800s, this species has spread to many areas outside of pastures and lawns. Like the following invasive species, tall fescue competes with and crowds out native plants.

• Johnson grass (Sorghum halepense)
• Lyme grass (Leymus arenarius)
• Reed canary grass (Phalaris arundinacea)

When choosing plants for home landscaping, gardeners are encouraged to substitute native species for potentially invasive ones. Native plants are better adapted to the local climate and require less care than introduced ornamental species.

The southeastern United States is primarily a humid, sub-tropical region. As such, it is filled with a wide variety of native flora. The area is home to the Carolinas, Virginias, Alabama, Kentucky, Florida, Tennessee, Georgia, Alabama, and other eastern coastal states. While many imported species are suitable for gardening in this area, natives are an excellent choice due to their adaptability to the region. Selecting natives also reduces the chances of invasive species colonizing the wild. Native trees of the southeast also provide important food and habitat for wild animals and birds, while native southeast wildflowers attract local pollinators.

Using native plants and wildflowers in the garden is a sure fire way of achieving a low maintenance landscape that is used to the existing soil, light, water, and other conditions. Georgia native plants will tolerate the sandy to red clay soils of the region, while plants native to Florida are well suited to the mostly sandy and commonly salinated soils. Most of these states contain extreme diversity of habitat from salty marshes, coastal dunes, and mountain ranges to highland meadows and deep forests. Reputable nurseries and greenhouses can guide the gardener to the correct plants for their site. Using local extension offices is also an excellent way to determine which native plants will thrive in the garden.

Considerations for Native Plants

Before designing the landscape it is important to come up with a plan. Watch the light play over the course of a week or more to determine how many hours of daylight the areas will greet. Perform soil tests to determine the pH, soil type, drainage, and nutrient concentration. Then contemplate the size of plant required and ensure there is enough space for plants such as tall trees, climbing vines, or spreading groundcovers. If necessary, amend the site with added compost, or lime and sulfur to change pH. Many of the Virginia native plants are indigenous across the southeast, but not all plants will enjoy the same growing condition found in a particular site.

Southeast Native Wildflowers

There are both herbaceous and woody wildflowers found wild across these states. The azalea is common in many forests, while orange coneflower is a part of its meadowlands. The diversity of terrain makes the southeast rich in flowering plants, as does its climate and growing season. Seek blooming plants that will develop flowers throughout the growing season. Fall, spring, and summer bloomers will provide food for animals, birds, and beneficial insects.

Southeast Flowers

• Rose - pink
• Pink Lady’s Slipper
• Goldenrod
• Wild Flag
• Butterfly Weed
• Ironweed
• Scarlet Hibiscus
• Glade Violet
• Common Yarrow
• White Snakeroot
• Eastern Red Columbine
• Tickseed
• Trumpet Vine
• Swamp Mallow
• Foamflower
• Joe Pye Weed
• Indian Blanket
• Swamp Sunflower
• Blazing Star
• Wild Lupine
• Greek Valerian

Native Trees of the Southeast

Trees form a canopy that can provide cooler temperatures below. The most effective installations of trees should provide a layered structure with taller plantings graduating to smaller species. Such an effect is most attractive to native fauna and insects, and is the way they naturally grow in the wild. The temperate forest communities of the region contain the canopy, understory, shrub, herbaceous, and ground levels. Mimicking this planting structure supports the greatest number of wildlife and creates ideal habitat for each plant level.

Southeastern trees for consideration:

Bald Cypress

Florida Maple

Willow Oak

Alabama Cherry

Flowering Dogwood

Longleaf Pine

Cane Ash

American Beech

Loblolly Pine

Gumbo Limbo Tree

Red Buckeye

Southern Magnolia

Tulip Poplar

Swamp Chestnut Oak

Sweetgum

Cucumber Tree

Tupelo

Wax Myrtle

River Birch

Sourwood

American Sycamore

Fragrant Sumac

Woody understory species:

Downy Serviceberry

New Jersey Tea Redroot

Buttonbush

Carolina Silverbell

American Holly

White Fringetree

Witch Hazel

Smooth Hydrangea

St. John’s Wort

Mountain Laurel

Spicebush

Flame Azalea

There is no doubt Americans love their lawns. Not surprising, turf grass is the most abundant “crop” we grow and water, yet it doesn't provide food or an income. For this and other reasons, homeowners are turning to lawn alternatives. Texas, Arkansas, and other south region gardeners have found success with a variety of native warm-season grasses and plants.

Why Switch to Lawn Alternatives

Instead of growing a monoculture lawn of bluegrass or fescue, many homeowners are switching to more sustainable native plants to populate their yards. These can include low growing grasses or groundcovers, which don't need mowed. It can also mean maintaining a prairie type garden with taller species that ripple in the wind.

Here are the primary reasons why a southern or Texas native lawn is more beneficial to the environment than a monoculture of bluegrass:

• Lawn substitutes use less fossil fuel. Both gasoline and diesel, the primary fuels which run lawn maintenance equipment, are refined from non-renewable crude oil. It's estimated Americans use 800 million gallons of gasoline each year to maintain picture perfect lawns.
• Traditional lawns are pollinator deserts. Traditional lawns are a monoculture and don't provide food for the many species of pollinators which inhabit the natural ecosystem. Without food, populations of these essential insects decline, resulting in a loss of biodiversity.
• Maintaining a green lawn requires irrigation. Estimates indicate it takes about 25,000 gallons of water each year to keep traditional turf-grass green and healthy throughout the growing season.
• Turf grass is expensive to maintain. Americans spend an estimated 30 to 35 billion dollars each year on lawn care. What's more, fertilizers and pesticides needed to maintain a monoculture lawn can result in toxic runoff which pollutes lakes, streams, and rivers.

Alternative to Lawn in Arkansas, Texas, and Southern States

One nice thing about switching to lawn alternatives is that homeowners don't need to do it all at once, or even transform their entire yard. If you want to maintain a grassy recreational area for people and pets, you can.

One good place to start with lawn alternatives is under trees and in shady or low traffic areas of the yard. Here are a few low growing, herbaceous plants which can be used as lawn substitutes:

• Huisache daisy (Amblyolepis setigera) – Native to Texas, the 1 to 2 inch (2.5-5 cm) yellow Huisache daisy flowers are highly attractive to bees and butterflies.
• Winecup (Callirhoe involucrata) – There's no doubt the purple cuplike flowers of this low-growing, mat-forming perennial inspired its name. Winecup is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 8.
• Silver ponyfoot (Dichondra argentea) – Perfect for drier gardens in zones 8 to 10, silver ponyfoot grows 4 inches (10 cm) tall and is tolerant of both sun and shade.

Native Grass Lawn Alternative: Kansas and Southern Gardens

Warm-season, native grasses are a good choice for both sunny and shady areas of the yard. Some species like Buffalograss (Buchloe dactyloides) are low growing, while other prairie species can get quite tall. For the latter, consider adding hardscaping elements like stone paths and benches. This provides places to walk, sit, and enjoy the garden.

Switching to a mix of native Texas grasses for lawns and gardens creates beautiful landscaping which doesn't need mowed:

• Big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii)
• Indiangrass (Sorghastrum nutans)
• Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)
• Purple top (Tridens flavus)
• Sideoats grama (Bouteloua curtipendula)

Finally, consider replacing your traditional grass lawn with native sedges (Carex spp.). These close relatives of grass have blade-like foliage and triangular stems. In contrast to traditional grass turf, sedge lawns only need to be mowed two to three times per year. Although there are over 2,000 species of sedges, the following have shown the most promise as lawn alternatives for southern lawns:

• Cedar sedge (Carex planostachys)
• Creek sedge (Carex amphibola)
• Leavenworth's sedge (Carex leavenworthii)
• Palm sedge (Carex muskingumensis)
• Texas sedge (Carex texensis)

Ornamental grasses for southeast states have to be able to withstand high summer temperatures. To enjoy these beauties, choose a species and variety that suits your local soil, sunlight, and moisture conditions. Although listed by state, there is a lot of overlap and most of these ornamental grasses will do well throughout the southeast.

Ornamental Grasses – Florida

• Beach panic grass --Try this type of panic grass in your sandy, beachy areas of a garden. It is a clumping grass that grows no taller than 2 feet (61 cm) tall and prefers full sun. It has a high tolerance for salt.
• Palm grass -- Palm grass is evergreen in Florida and lends a tropical look to the garden. The wide, pleated leaves resemble small palms. Flower spikes are green and cylindrical. This grass grows up to 10 feet (3 m) tall.
• Fakahatchee grass -- Also called gamma grass, this is a native grass that is easy to grow and that will tolerate drought and partial shade. The flowers are of particular interest. They extend above the foliage on thin stems.

Ornamental Grasses – Georgia

• Panic grass -- Both beaked and redtop panic grass are native in Georgia and grow 2 to 4 feet (61 cm to 1 m) tall. These are good choices for wet soil areas along swamps or streams, but they also tolerate dry soil.
• Upland river oats -- Another native, this grass produces pretty flowers on curved stems that look nice in dried arrangements. The soil should be moist and rich. Upland river oats reseed very readily.
• Eastern bottlebrush -- This grass tolerates some shade and is a good choice for meadow gardens and areas with moist but well-draining soil. Bottlebrush is notable for its spiky flower clusters.
• Blackseed speargrass -- Choose this native grass for dry areas and rocky soils. It forms clumps up to 3 feet (91 cm) tall and black seeds that seem to float over the foliage.

Ornamental Grasses – South Carolina

• Big bluestem -- Big bluestem is native throughout much of the U.S. and grows well in all of the southeast. It can be up to 8 feet (2 m) tall and forms narrow clumps with a pretty reddish fall color. Varieties include one with light blue leaves and another streaked with red.
• Fountain grass --This ornamental grass is known for its graceful shape and bottlebrush flowers that range from cream to light pink. Different varieties of fountain grass offer smaller sizes and different colors.
• Japanese forest grass -- This grass grows in dense mounds that cascade gracefully. It only grows to about 1.5 feet (46 cm) tall. Japanese forest grass makes a nice groundcover for shady areas and comes in varieties with variegation and stripes.

Ornamental Grasses – North Carolina

• Muhly grass -- Choose Muhlenbergia capillaris for dry areas of the garden. Very drought tolerant, this native grass comes in a few cultivars. Choose the pink variety for feathery, rose colored blooms in fall.
• Feather reed grass -- Thriving in the cool season, feather reed grass forms clumps up to 4 feet (1 m) tall. It loves full sun and tolerates drought. Cultivars include taller plants and striped or variegated foliage.
• Appalachian sedge -- While not technically a grass, this sedge is grass-like and native to the state. It grows in short, dense clumps and makes a nice groundcover in shady areas.

Ornamental Grasses – Virginia

• Indiangrass -- Sorghatrum nutans is native in Virginia and is often called yellow Indian grass for its golden flowers and seeds. It can grow up to 8 feet (2 m) tall and has a pretty fall color.
• Switchgrass -- Growing as tall as 10 feet (3 m), switchgrass grows in clumps and produces lacy, attractive seed clusters that are red to purple in fall. The stems turn bright yellow in fall.
• Tufted hairgrass -- This native grass grows in mountain meadows and prefers moist soil and partial shade. Tufted hairgrass starts out purplish green and fades in color for interesting seasonal variation.
• Sideoats grama -- This is the state grass of Texas, but it is also native to Virginia. It is named for its oat-like seeds that hang from a tall stalk. The flowers are pretty in bloom.

States of the U.S. in the west north central region tend to have cold winters and medium to hot summers. Such conditions provide an adequate number of chilling days to promote fruit production. While the weather conditions are similar, there are some fluctuations. Nonetheless, the best fruit trees to grow in South Dakota will be the same recommendations for Montana fruit trees. The severity of the cold temperatures may require special protections like frost fabric in early spring, or painted trunks to prevent winter scald.

Spring is the best time to plant fruit trees that grow in Montana and other cold winter regions. The Great Plains and Northern Rockies are host to pears, plums, and other fruits with high chilling requirements. Plants like apricots may also thrive, but because they bloom early, frost protection is often necessary. Pomes like apples and pears are favorites in the regions due to their ability to withstand cold and light frost. Cherries, both sweet and tart, will also be ideal selections for the garden.

Before Selecting Trees

Reputable nurseries will sell plants that are hardy to the region. This is the first concern when choosing a fruit tree. The second is the site. Perform a soil test to ascertain the soil pH and nutrient levels and amend the area prior to planting as necessary. Most fruit trees prefer a pH of 6.0 to 7.7. Ensure the area has adequate run off and will not have standing water pooling, which could cause root rot and fungal disease. The areas should be free of frost pockets where cold air collects, and have a sunny exposure, either southern or western. Some wind barrier is preferable, especially to prevent northern winds from damaging the tree. In rural and even some urban settings, a tall fence is needed to keep grazing animals from injuring the tree.

Types of Fruit Trees Nebraska and Other North Central Locations

Due to the often extreme winters, many believe fruit trees do not grow well in these states. There is a long history, however, of orchards growing in the region. Ensure the rootstock on the tree is hardy. For instance, quince rootstock is not hardy for South Dakota. Many pears, apples, cherries, plums, and apricots are ideal for these states. Nectarines and peaches, though, may be short lived and must be planted in very protected sites. For best results the rootstock should be hardy to USDA zones 4 and 5. The rootstock on the tree selected should also have resistance to common diseases and pests of the area, does not sucker, and produces high yields. Additionally, many fruit trees need a pollinating partner in order to set fruit.

Fruit Trees for the West North Central United States

Fruit trees that grow in North Dakota will also perform well in most of the region. Pay close attention to things like microclimate. Just because the USDA hardiness range indicates the state is a 5 doesn’t mean there are not areas of 4 or even 3. In general, some good varieties are:

Pears

• Golden Spice
• Parker
• Honeycrisp
• Frostbite
• Snowsweet

Apples

• Wealthy
• Carrol
• Duchess
• Oldenburg
• Goodland

Plums

• Red Diamond
• Compass
• Sapalta
• Black Ice
• Superior

Cherries

• Northstar
• Meteor

Apricots

• Moongold
• Sungold

Asian Pears

• Chojuro
• Hosui
• Shinseiki

Invasive weeds in the Pacific Northwest reduce biodiversity resulting in the loss of native plants and animals through competition for resources thereby altering habitats. The Pacific Northwest is a large region encompassing not only invasive plants in Oregon, but also Washington and Idaho. Government agencies wage a war against invasive species in the area, but citizens can help too by recognizing Pacific Northwest invasive plants and reporting them. Read on to learn how to identify invasive species in your area.

About Invasive Plants

If you aren’t familiar with the native species for your area, it isn’t easy to distinguish between the native and non-native plant species. Once you get to know which plants are invasive, it is surprising how many plants don’t belong in the ecosystem for that region.

How do they get there? Invasive plants are brought in by people, sometimes purposefully and sometimes by accident. Invasive plant seeds may hitch a ride on ocean transported cargo or on Fido’s fur after a hike in another state's natural area. Birds bring in non-native seeds, dispersing them as they eliminate their bowels. Even the wind is guilty of dispersing non-native species.

Non-native plants aren't always invasive. Your roses, for example, are likely not native to the area but aren’t considered invasive. They aren’t hardy enough or spread rapidly enough to be considered invasive. Washington, Oregon, or Idaho invasive species are those that take root and propagate easily, wiping out native plants and habitats.

Invasive Plant Criteria

For a plant to be considered invasive it must reproduce and spread seeds easily and rapidly. Invasive plants have few, if any, natural predators and thrive in areas where other plants find it difficult to take hold.

Invasive plants are also notoriously difficult to kill. These plants are difficult to eradicate since they use all their survival skills to live. Often invasive plants survive fire, chemical controls, and even digging or chopping up of the plant, often regrowing from a single root fragment left behind.

Pacific Northwest Invasive Plant Species

In Idaho alone, the state has listed 71 weed species and 4 genera as noxious. Of these 54 species are terrestrial. Cytisus, Genista, Spartium, and Chameacytsus are the four genera listed as noxious by the state.

Leafy spurge, rush skeleton weed, spotted knapweed, Eurasian watermilfoil, Canada thistle, oxeye daisy, toadflax, houndstongue, and orange hawkweed are all noxious weeds that reduce forage for livestock and wildlife rendering them a place on the invasive weed list of Idaho.

Many of these weeds have crossed over into Washington state and are also listed as noxious. Such is the case with many Oregon invasive plants such as butterfly bush, spurge laurel, English holly, English laurel, Himalayan blackberry, English and Irish ivy, garlic mustard, poison hemlock, Italian arum, pokeweed, and lesser Celandine.

Noxious plants listed for Washington state are likely to be found in Idaho and Oregon. To find out if a plant is listed as invasive in your state, contact your local extension office or Noxious Weed Control for your county. The Pacific Northwest Invasive Plant Council also has a comprehensive listing of non-indigenous plants affecting the region. Report sightings of invasive weeds to your state’s invasive species council.

What are the best fruit trees in Ohio Valley gardens? If you're thinking about adding a small orchard to the backyard, you may have visions of harvesting bushels of fruit from your trees. Before you get too caught up in the dream, realize that growing your own fruit requires a multi-year commitment with careful attention to the selection of both the type and varieties of fruit you wish to grow.

Growing Fruit Trees in Illinois Zone 5

While most of Ohio Valley states are in USDA hardiness zones 6 and 7, there are a few colder spots in this region with zone 5 climate. When selecting fruit trees, one of the first criteria to consider is winter hardiness. Apples, pears and sour cherries are hardy in zone 5 and are the most likely to produce fruit every year.

Some cultivars of apricots, sweet cherries, nectarines, and peaches are also considered hardy in zone 5. Unfortunately, issues like colder-than-normal winters and late spring frosts influence whether or not these fruit trees will survive for multiple seasons or reliably produce a crop.

It's essential to understand that USDA hardiness zones indicate the average coldest temperatures a region is likely to experience. It does not indicate whether or not fruit trees will bud or bear fruit the next spring. For this, one also has to consider chill hours.

Chill Hours for Ohio Valley Fruit Trees

Chill hours refers to the amount of time fruit trees will experience temperatures between freezing and 45 degrees F. (7.2 C.). When trees experience too few chill hours, the flower buds won't open, or they will open sporadically in the spring. Fruit trees in Kentucky and Tennessee are more likely to experience an insufficient amount of chill time than those in northern Illinois.

On the other hand, too many chill hours can cause fruit trees to break dormancy and bud too early in the season. This is especially true when a warm spell during the winter stimulates the flow of sap upward and the buds begin to swell. Late spring freezes and frosts can then damage buds, which may result in loss of the entire crop for the year.

When researching fruit trees, one is likely to discover that chill hour requirements can vary widely between cultivars. Most types of deciduous fruit trees have “low-chill” cultivars which are best suited for southern climates. When looking for types of fruit for the Ohio Valley, consider varieties with higher chill hour requirements.

Fruit Trees in USDA Hardiness Zones 6 and 7

USDA hardiness zone 6 includes southern Illinois and Michigan, and northern Missouri as well as most of Ohio and Indiana. Fruit trees, like apricots, peaches, pears, nectarines and sweet cherries, produce more reliable crops in zone 6 as compared to zone 5. Sour cherries, apples, pawpaws, pears and plums also do very well in zone 6 gardens.

Zone 7 includes southern areas of Missouri, Illinois, Indiana and Ohio as well as most of Kentucky and Tennessee. Some sour cherry varieties don't fare well in zone 7, but gardeners in this climate can add hardy pomegranates to the list of fruit trees they can grow. Other types of fruit that does well in zone 7 includes:

• Apples
• Apricots
• Nectarines
• Pawpaws
• Peaches
• Pears
• Plums
• Sweet cherries

Selecting Fruit Trees in Missouri and the Ohio Valley

Local nurseries are often a good source for the type and varieties of fruit trees that do well in a given area. Their garden specialist can also advise orchardist about the basic growing requirements and pollination needs for the trees they select.

If you plan to order fruit trees online for the Ohio Valley, you may wish to start your search with these cultivars:

Apples

• Cortland
• Empire
• Honeycrisp
• Mcintosh

Apricots

• Goldcot
• Harglow
• Patterson

Sour Cherries

• Meteor
• Montmorency
• North Star

Sweet Cherries

• Bing
• Blackgold
• Sweetheart

Nectarines

• Hardired
• Mericrest
• Summer Beaut

Pawpaws

• Sunflower
• Wabash

Peaches

• China Pearl
• Contender
• Reliance

Pears

• Anjou
• Bosc
• Red Bartlett

Plums

• Bluebyrd
• Earliblue
• Damson

Pomegranate

• Russian 26
• Salavatski

It's easy to understand why Kudzu, Multiflora Rose, and Giant Knotweed are considered invasive plants in New York and surrounding states. These fast-growing plants invade home gardens, are difficult to remove and crowd out native species in uncultivated areas. Yet, you might be surprised to find a number of beloved landscaping plants have also made the invasive plant list.

What Are Invasive Plants?

Invasive plants are non-native or introduced species which are so well-adapted to the environment that they rapidly grow, reproduce and spread. They compete with and crowd out native species, many of which are vital to the ecosystem. Most invasive species originated in Europe and Asia and were brought to the US as ornamentals.

Many Northeast US states have enacted laws which prohibit the collection, sale, transport, distribution, propagation or transplantation of invasive species. While the regulations don't require existing plants to be removed, planting new ones is prohibited. Homeowners are advised to check with their local Forest or Grasslands office before adding regulated species to their property.

Maine to Pennsylvania: Invasive Plants Or Beloved Ornamentals

It's hard to believe that some of the most popular landscaping plants are considered invasive. Yet these species have escaped into the forests and parks of the Eastern US, where they compete with essential native species for resources. Here are six invasive landscaping plants you may see in your neighborhood or find in your own backyard:

• Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus) Adored for its brilliant red fall foliage, Burning Bush was introduced as an ornamental in the 1860's. It produces an abundance of seeds which are spread by birds.
• Crimson King Maple (Acer platanoides "Crimson King") The beautiful burgundy leaves made this Norway maple cultivar a popular landscape tree. Crimson King maples readily self-seed by sending out two-winged helicopters.
• Common Privet (Ligustrum obtusifolium) Introduced from Asia, privet was traditionally used for hedgerows and is popular in maze, labyrinth and knot gardens. Common privet spreads by root sprouts and birds distribute the seeds.
• Japanese Barberry (Berberis thunbergii) Valued for its vibrant red or orange fall foliage, Japanese Barberry was introduced in the late 1800's as an ornamental. It has escaped into forests, where it harbors large populations of blacklegged ticks.
• Japanese Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) Introduced for its fragrant flowers and erosion control, Japanese Honeysuckle has become a widespread Northeast invasive vine. Identification to distinguish it from American Honeysuckle is recommended as the former has a twining growth habit which allows it to form dense mats and blanket trees.
• Running Bamboo (Phyllostachys aurea) Introduced to the US in the 1880's, Running Bamboo is one of the invasive grasses Northeast homeowners have come to love. Often used for privacy screens and noise reduction, Running Bamboo spreads rapidly via underground rhizomes.

Invasive Plants: New England and Northeast US

Whether an invasive species was intentionally planted or it naturalized on the property, it's advisable to use precautions when removing these plants from the yard or garden. Composting or shredding may not kill seeds or rhizomatous type roots. In addition, these plants might not be accepted at yard waste recycling centers.

Homeowners are advised to contact their local Extension offices should they need help identifying or properly disposing of invasive plant species. Here's a partial list of species which may be regulated as invasive plants in Northeast US states:

• Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima)
• Garlic Mustard (Alliaria petiolata)
• European Black Alder (Alnus glutinosa)
• European Barberry (Berberis vulgaris)
• Oriental Bittersweet (Celastrus orbiculatus)
• Spotted Knapweed (Centaurea stoebe)
• Black Swallow-wort (Cynanchum louiseae)
• Pale Swallow-wort (Cynanchum rossicum)
• Autumn Olive (Elaeagnus umbellata)
• Glossy Buckthorn (Frangula alnus)
• Reed Sweet Grass (Glyceria maxima)
• Amur Honeysuckle (Lonicera maackii)
• Moneywort (Lysimachia nummularia)

We would almost certainly have little food without the aid of our pollinators. Encouraging and protecting these important insects and animals helps uphold our food system. Installing native New England pollinator plants is one way to lure bees and other organisms into our landscapes. Using pollinator plants indigenous to the northeast region provides important food and habitat. Local plants are also adapted to the area and tend to need less maintenance and have natural resistance to pests and disease.

Northeast gardeners can increase the number of pollinating insects and animals by utilizing the wild flora of the region. A pollinator garden should feature a variety of flowering plants that support bees and others. The most common New England pollinators are bees, butterflies, wasps, flies, and beetles. A well planned pollinator garden for Pennsylvania, New Hampshire, and other states of the northeast will be rife with plants and pollinating partners.

Pollinator Garden New England Features

Plants are the primary drivers for pollinators, but they also need water, food, and shelter. While providing them with plants for food is important, they seek refuge among the leaves, in the soil, and in cracks and crevasses. An overly tidy garden often reduces these habitats, but in a pollinator garden, these features are retained. Host plants are important for insects like butterflies, who lay their eggs on the undersides of leaves.

Plants that larvae eat should also be included in the northeast garden. Often larvae feast on different plants from their adult counterparts. Planting a diversity of flora is the easiest way to provide hosts, food, and shelter. Leaving shallow dishes of water will satisfy the insect's thirst without introducing the possibility of drowning. Keep these in areas where you have seen pollinators congregating.

Pollinator Needs Northeast

Pollinator shrubs for the northeast region can increase species diversity among our pollinators. Several important insects have recently been declared endangered or species for special conservation. The frosted elfin is a butterfly whose larvae require yellow wild indigo and wild lupine for forage. They frequent dry, open forests and scrub areas. The rusty patch bumblebee is listed as endangered and needs plenty of blooming plants in an area with nesting sites. The Monarch butterfly requires milkweed, a plant that thrives in open grassland. Violets are important food for the regal fritillary.

Wildflowers of the region will ensure plenty of food for both adult and larval species of these types.

• Mountain mint
• Shaggy Blazing Star
• Pinnate Prairie Coneflower
• Bee Balm
• Blue Wild Indigo
• Zigzag Goldenrod
• Blanket flower
• Stonecrop

Pollinator Shrubs Northeast

Flowering shrubs are important food and attractors for pollinators. They also add much needed dimension to the landscape, producing a pleasing aesthetic. Selecting plants that produce deep throated blooms will encourage pollinators such as butterflies and hummingbirds. Shrubs with smaller flowers are more attractive to the tiny pollinating insects. Flowers that are dull white, purple, or green and send out a musky scent will encourage bats. Abelia is also known as the bee bush due to its long bloom period and plentiful nectar. Fruit trees are popular with a variety of pollinators.

• Highbush Blueberry
• Sweet Pepperbush
• Buttonbush
• Arrow wood
• Ninebark
• Kilmarnock Willow
• Oakleaf Hydrangea
• Summersweet
• Lilac
• Virginia Rose
• Serviceberry

Try to stagger plants with different flowering times, so pollinators have food throughout the year. Use early blooming bulbs such as crocus to provide food in the late winter. Contact your local extension office for lists of wild plants that will assist in attracting these crucial pollinators to your garden.

Beautiful lawns don't just happen. Properly timed lawn maintenance, such as mowing, fertilizing and aerating can turn weedy, unhealthy turf into a lush carpet of green grass. Let's take a look at the best times to schedule these lawn care tasks for the Central Midwest states and the Ohio Valley region.

Wisconsin to Missouri Lawn Care Schedule

Lawn care begins long before those first blades of grass start to green up in the spring. As the snow melts off the turf, spring cleanup is the first step. Remove the branches, twigs and pinecones that came down over the winter. Rake any leaves that may have blown onto the grass and pick up debris.

This is also a good time to survey the lawn for perennial weeds, snow mold and mole damage. Resolving these issues early can lessen their severity. The time to apply broadleaf herbicides, reseed bare spots and mow for the first time will depend upon the weather and your climate.

When to Begin Mowing the Lawn

Most years, the Upper Midwest states and Northern Illinois lawn care schedule will lag a few weeks behind the starting dates for southern areas of the Midwest and Ohio Valley. Weather conditions also determine when to begin mowing in the spring. Instead of going by a calendar date, experts recommend following these guidelines:

• Wait until the grass breaks dormancy. Once the grass begins actively growing, it's safe to start mowing. Cool-season grass breaks dormancy when soil temperatures reach 50 degrees F. (10 C.) or the daytime air temperature is consistently above 60 degrees F. (16 C.).
• Make sure the soil can support mowing. Snow melt and spring rains can leave the ground waterlogged. Subsequently, the weight of lawn tractors can tear up the sod and leave ruts in the yard. If the grass is getting too high, consider using a push mower to get the job done without damaging the turf.
• Mow grass at the proper height. The rule of thumb is to remove no more than 1/3 of the length of the grass blades when mowing. Cutting grass back too far impairs root growth and makes the lawn less drought resistant during dry weather.

When to Fertilize Lawn – Indiana North and South

Timely applications of fertilizer provide the nutrients your lawn needs. If you only feed the turf once per year, fall is the recommended time. In the northern regions of the Central Midwest, the first two weeks of September is the key time to apply a water soluable, fast-release fertilizer.

As cool-season turf recovers from summer stress, an application of a high nitrogen grass fertilizer (20-8-8) encourages the grass plants to store carbohydrate reserves for the upcoming winter. This increases root growth and helps the lawn green up quicker in the spring.

A second application of fertilizer can be applied up to two weeks before the ground freezes. Fall is also the ideal time to eliminate perennial weeds. Applying a broadleaf herbicide in early fall encourages grass to spread into areas left vacant from dying weeds.

In southern areas of the central Midwest and Ohio Valley, late September to early October is the recommended time for an early or annual application of fertilizer. If desired, a second application of fertilizer can be applied in early November.

When to Aerate Lawn – Ohio Valley Region

Aerating lawns is a process in which holes are created in the turf by removing 1/2 to 3/4 inch (1.5-2 cm.) plugs of soil that are typically 2 to 3 inches (5-7.5 cm.) long. Aerating machines can be rented or this type of service can be performed by a lawn care company. Aerating benefits turf grass in the following ways:

• Reduces soil compaction
• Improves air exchange
• Boosts fertilizer uptake
• Enhances the soil's ability to absorb water
• Creates a stronger root system
• Decreases thatch

The ideal time to aerate the lawn is when it's actively growing. Fall aerating is preferred over spring as weed seeds have less opportunity to germinate and get established in the autumn. The ground should be moist, but not overly saturated and mowing first is recommended if you plan to seed the lawn after aerating.

Note: Any recommendations pertaining to the use of chemicals are for informational purposes only. Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and more environmentally friendly.

North and central U.S. states including North and South Dakota, Nebraska, Montana, and Wyoming have cold winters and a mix of high and low elevations with often dry conditions. Lawn care in North Dakota is a little different from lawn care in Nebraska; further south will be a little different, but there are many commonalities. Contact your county’s extension office for the most relevant lawn care tips for your area.

Grass Types for Northern Plains States

The cold winters in these states eliminate several options for turf type, making the homeowner’s decision a little easier. From among the options that will grow here, choose a variety that matches your lawn’s particular needs, including soil type, sun or shade, and drought frequency. Also consider the amount of maintenance you want to put into your lawn.

Varieties appropriate for most areas of the northern plains include:

• Buffalo grass
• Blue grama
• Wheat grass
• Smooth bromegrass
• Fine fescues (sheep, creeping, chewings, hard)
• Tall fescue
• Kentucky bluegrass
• Perennial rye grass

Native species like buffalo grass and blue grama provide wildlife support and require little maintenance, but don’t expect the classic thick, green turf of a Kentucky bluegrass.

The latter will give you that traditional lawn, but it requires a lot more care. If you have a lot of shade, tall and fine fescues can give you dense turf, while blue grama, buffalo grass, and others need more sun.

Mowing

Lawn care in Montana and the other states requires varying degrees of mowing, but there are some general rules all homeowners should follow:

• Regardless of turf type, mow your lawn to a height of between 2.5 to 3 inches (6.5 to 7.5 cm.). Don’t go lower than 2 inches (5 cm.), as this can make your turf more susceptible to drought, pests, and weeds.
• Frequency of mowing will vary depending on weather conditions and watering. In general, frequency should also be dictated by the fact that you should never remove more than a third of the height of the grass at a time. So, if you keep your turf at 3 inches (7.6 cm.), mow when it reaches 4 inches (10 cm.).
• Keep grass clippings on the lawn after mowing. They break down quickly and add nutrients back to the soil.

Watering

Northern grasses do not tolerate the heat of midsummer, so they will go dormant and turn brown at this time of year. This is perfectly natural, and you can let it happen. The grass will green again later as temperatures cool.

If you want to keep the turf green all summer, measure rainfall and add supplemental water so that it gets 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 4 cm.) of water per week. Always water deeply and less frequently as opposed to lightly and often. The latter promotes weak and shallow root systems.

Fertilizing

The best lawn fertilizer for Wyoming and other northern states is similar to other locations. The timing differs, though. Use a fertilizer higher in nitrogen in spring. Increase potassium for fall fertilization.

The first fertilization should occur in spring, but not until you have mowed a couple of times. Waiting allows your turf to put energy into root growth. Fertilizer applied too early encourages more top growth, but your grass needs healthy roots.

Because northern grasses go dormant in summer, fertilize next in early September after temperatures cool a little. Add another round in early October before the ground is frozen and include a little extra potassium.

Thatch Control

Thatch is a layer of dead grass, living grass, roots, and other plant material that can be beneficial but also damaging when it gets too thick. Avoid letting it get thicker than three quarters of an inch (2 cm.).

Lawn aeration in South Dakota and the other northern states is a useful way to manage thatch. Power raking can also work, but done incorrectly, it will damage turf. Aeration manages turf but also reduces compaction in the soil, which is important for healthy grass.

Managing turf in states with cold winters and hot, often dry summers can be a challenge. It is doable, though. Start with the right grass for your location and needs and follow these maintenance guidelines.

Our lawns are one of the focal points of the home. Turf grass maintenance is key to a beautiful, weed free, healthy lawn. And it all starts with selecting the best grass for southwest regions. Proper varieties will be adapted to the zones, require less care, and are bred to thrive in the area's weather. Once the correct variety is installed, a few basic tips and tricks on maintenance can keep it verdant and thriving.

Achieving a bowling green of emerald grass doesn't have to be a pipe dream. Aeration, de-thatching, fertilization, weed control, and mowing are all part of good grass management. The southwest poses challenges due to the very hot days, cool nights, and lack of natural precipitation. A variety of grass, irrigation, and fall and spring applications will help the homeowner towards the goal of lush landscape. Lawn care in Utah and surrounding states relies upon a planned maintenance program for best results.

Mechanical Lawn Care Utah and Similar States

In the arid regions of the southwest, grasses are slow to grow unless adequate irrigation is applied. The best lawn grass for New Mexico may not be the best for Utah, so check with your extension office for suggested varieties. Buffalograss and blue grama are ideal for low water areas, but zoysia grass, Kentucky bluegrass, Bermudagrass, and perennial ryegrass are excellent varieties for the home landscape.

Mowing is one of the most essential parts of lawn care. Each type grows at a different rate, so it will vary as to when it is time to mow. The rule with any plant is to never take off more than 1/3 of the growth. Make sure the mower has a sharp, clean blade to prevent injury to the grass and make sharp cuts, Mow to a height of 2-4 inches (5-10 cm.). This is a bit high for some gardeners but taller grass promotes deeper roots which helps the plants harvest deeper water sources. Overall this produces a healthier, greener lawn. If the lawn is mowed frequently enough, the clippings should be allowed to drop into the lawn. This mulched material will add nutrients back into the soil and prevent excess evaporation of moisture.

Aerating and De-thatching

Arizona lawn care tips apply to much of the region. Wondering when to aerate a lawn in Colorado and the southwest? Aeration can open the soil and help plant roots access moisture and nutrients more effectively. It removes some of the thatch that builds up over time, which is comprised of dead and live roots, rhizomes, and stolon, as well as excess clippings.

Aerating cool season grass is usually done in spring as the lawn begins to actively return to rapid growth. Warm season grasses may be done in summer. Heavily trafficked areas may require aeration twice a year. A little thatch is a good thing because it conserves moisture and protects roots. But a heavy thatch will smother the grass and diminish beneficial organisms. De-thatching is similar and may be done with a hard rake or thatching machine at any time of the year.

Fertilizing and Water

The best use of water is through an installed irrigation system, but overhead sprinklers may be used. Watering in the early morning helps to reduce evaporation and water loss. It also allows leaf blades to dry, minimizing the chance of fungal disease. Using timers is recommended so the water can start when it is still dark and turn off in a prescribed amount of time.

Each variety of grass has different water needs, but on average provide 1 to 1-1/2 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm.) of water per week. Apply fertilizer in fall and spring. If clippings are left on the lawn to compost, use a balanced fertilizer. For lawns that do not receive clippings, nitrogen will be the highest nutrient need. Consider using a time-release food that will not produce excess nitrogen. Too much nitrogen can encourage certain plant diseases.

Lawns didn’t become popular in the Northeast United States until the late 18th century, but the first lawns were cultivated around English and French castles out of necessity. Today there’s probably at least one home on the block that has a lawn that’s the envy of all the others, and that comes down to choosing the best grass seed and the best time to plant grass seed in the Northeast. It also means paying attention to a strict lawn fertilizer schedule in the Northeast, weed control and fall lawn care for Northeast lawns. Read on to learn how to get that picture-perfect lawn for your landscape.

Choosing Grass for Northeast Lawns

As mentioned earlier, lawns were cultivated out of necessity around the 16th century. Trees would be felled, shrubbery removed and wild grasses allowed to grow naturally around the castles. The reasoning was so that enemy soldiers couldn’t sneak up on the castle and so that the castle inhabitants could keep an eye on the surrounding countryside.

The grasses we grow today weren’t part of the lawns of the 16th century. Today’s turf grasses have been especially selected/developed with certain criteria in mind. New England grasses usually contain Kentucky bluegrass due to its tolerance for cold temps. Other grasses that might be part of a turf mix include fescues, perennial ryegrass, buffalo grass, bentgrass, blue grama, St. Augustine, centipede grass, and switchgrass to name a few.

When to Plant Grass Seed in the Northeast

In the Northeast, sow grass seed in the late summer to early fall when there is less weed competition and temperatures are cool enough for the grass to germinate and grow. Seeding any later than October is not recommended as soils may be too wet.

If you plan on renovating areas of thin turf or smaller barren areas, you can overseed in the late winter, spring or early fall.

Sod can be laid at almost any time of year provided irrigation is available. However, laying sod in the hot, dry summer months will require extra water and more time to establish.

How to Fertilize Lawns in the Northeast

Turf grasses require more nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium than is available in the soil, so fertilizing becomes a necessity for the perfect lawn. A soil test is the best way to determine how much of any nutrient your sod needs. If you are using a mulching mower, you may not need to supplement nutrients since the grass clippings break down and add them to the lawn.

Generally, however, turf grasses should have an annual application of nitrogen in the form of a slow-release fertilizer during the mid- to late spring and/or late summer or early fall. Apply fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Do not use an all in one weed killer/fertilizer since the application rates are based on the weed killer, not the fertilizer. Do not apply fertilizer if rain is imminent.

Weeds in Turf Grass

Weeds in the lawn are not necessarily a bad thing. Many weeds such as dandelions and clover provide valuable food sources for bees. If you are allergic to bees or the clover is overtaking the turf, then maybe it’s time to investigate methods for weed control.

The best way to control weeds is to grow healthy grass. Choose the best grass seed or mix for your conditions. Water and mow to encourage grass growth -- infrequent irrigation and low mowing contribute to weed growth. Compact soil and pest infestation also give weeds the go ahead. Keep the lawn healthy by fertilizing at the appropriate times with the correct rates.

Of course the most time consuming but the least harmful to the environment is to go out and remove the weeds by hand.

Mowing Tips

• Proper mowing can go a long way in maintaining a healthy lawn.
• Unless your grass is only mowed infrequently, there is no reason to bag or rake grass clippings. Just leave them to decay where they will add valuable nutrients back into the turf grass.
• Try not to mow when the grass is wet. Wet conditions won’t kill the grass but they will cause compacted soil which can lead to water runoff and other issues.
• Vary the direction you go on each mowing to encourage upright grass growth.
• Keep mower blades sharp. Dull blades tear grass resulting in injury.

Ornamental shrubs serve many purposes in the garden and can bring color, texture, form, flowers, and fruits to the landscape. With so many choices, it’s easy to get overwhelmed. The list below shows some of the best shrubs for Arkansas, Oklahoma, Texas, Louisiana, and Mississippi.

Shrubs can be divided into two groups – deciduous and evergreen. Deciduous plants drop their leaves at the same time each year and remain without foliage for a while (dormancy). Evergreen plants drop a few leaves during the year but are never barren for any length of time. The list below includes flowering deciduous shrubs as well as evergreen shrubs.

Southern bushes can be exposed to many environmental challenges such as heat, drought, and humidity. Given the proper care and correct site for its size, hardiness, and light needs, these shrubs should fare well.

Best Southern Shrubs for Yards and Gardens

There are many more shrubs to choose from that do well in southern climates. Contact your local extension service for more choices. Texas is divided into six different regions, but Texas shrubs represented in the list below are adaptable to all regions.

Flowering Shrubs

• Althea (Hibiscus syriacas) – Blooms prolifically during summer in a myriad of color choices.
• American Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana L.) – Lavender flowers in spring are followed by magenta berries (white cultivars available) in late summer that are relished by birds. Yellow fall color.
• Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) – Showy flowers in red, pink, white, or lavender with a variety of height choices; blooms for long periods in summer. Exfoliating bark.
• Chaste tree (Vitex spp.) – Large shrub or small tree. Long lavender, blue, white, or pink spikes cover the tree sporadically from summer to frost.
• Hydrangea (Hydrangea spp.) – Native oakleaf hydrangea has white cone-shaped flowers that fade to dusty rose, then tan. Panicle hydrangeas have large, white, cone-shaped flowers that fade to pink. Macrophylla hydrangea has the familiar ball shaped flowers in blue, pink, red or shades of purple.
• Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia) – Native shrub in standard or dwarf forms with pink or white flower spikes in summer.
• Winter honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantissima) – Fragrant white blooms in winter when little else is blooming.
• Witch-alder (Fothergilla major) – Native plant with fragrant, white bottlebrush flowers in spring; red or orange autumn color.

Evergreen shrubs

• Aucuba (Aucuba japonica 'Variegata') – Dark green and yellow variegated leaves.
• Azalea (Rhododendron spp.) – Many color choices that bloom prolifically in spring. Newer cultivars that bloom sporadically all season are available.
• Holly (Ilex spp.) – Hollies need male and female plants to fruit. Yaupon, Inkberry, Japanese, Chinese, possum haw, American.
• Indian Hawthorn (Raphiolepis indica) – White or pink flowers in April; blue fruit in fall.
• Japanese boxwood (Buxus microphylla japonica) – Tolerates heat and humidity.
• Juniper (Juniperus spp.) – Many varieties and growth patterns are available of this tough shrub. Needs well-draining soil.
• Mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia) – White, lavender, pink, or red flowers in spring.
• Southern waxmyrtle (Myrica cerifer) – Native to moist sites but tolerates drought. Fruits in fall attract wildlife.

For more information on shrubs for Oklahoma visit the Oklahoma Proven program on the Oklahoma State University extension website. The program began in 1999 and a team of researchers evaluate and market the best plants for Oklahoma gardens.

Bees are as important to our existence as the air we breathe and the water we drink. Unfortunately, due to a variety of factors, bee numbers are on the decline. Gardeners of all regions can help, but for the purposes of this article we will focus on the West North Central U.S. and Nebraska pollinator gardens. Read on to learn how to entice South Dakota bees, butterflies of Wyoming, and various types of bees in Montana.

About Bees of the West North Central United States

Habitat, nectar, and pollen are the three requirements for bee existence. Chemical controls of all types as well as decimation of natural habitat have contributed to the bee's decline.

As a gardener you can do something to help by incorporating a pollinator garden and/or simply dotting your landscape with pollinator friendly plant species. That said, grouping pollinator plants is best as it gives different types of bees a variety with differing bloom times, and it makes habitats easier to find and more protected than a single plant specimen.

To attract these beneficial insects, you not only need to have the above mentioned requirements, but must also consider the needs of the young. One of the great imperatives of a species is to procreate, and bees and other pollinators are no exception. When planting to attract pollinators be sure to consider and include host plants; plants that provide nesting sites, food, and shelter for eggs, larvae, and pupae.

Type of Bees in North Dakota

Bumblebees are the most commonly seen type of bee in North Dakota. Unfortunately, two types of bumblebee that are native to the northern U.S. from the Dakotas eastward have declined rapidly due to habitat loss—those are the Rusty Patched bumblebee and Yellow-banded bumblebee.

Long-horned bees run a close second with over 30 species found in North Dakota alone.

Other bee species found in North Dakota include Small and Large Carpenter bees, Sweat bees, Squash bees, Polyester bees, Masked bees, Cuckoo bees, Mason bees, Leaf Cutter bees, and Miner bees. There are also over 30 species of Long-horned bees. Most of these bees are found throughout the United States.

Of course, you will also see wasps, yellow jackets, and hornets but although they look similar to bees, they are so different biologically they’re classified in different orders. Plus, wasps are carnivores that feed on meat, not nectar and pollen.

Butterflies of Wyoming

Pollinator gardens may not only attract a variety of bees, but other pollinators as well such as flies, wasps, moths, butterflies, and even some birds.

Wyoming has a dearth of butterflies and moths that call the state home. Of course, there is a Wyoming butterfly as well as an American lady, cabbage white, common buckeye, common wood-nymph, coral hairstreak, Eastern tailed blue, hackberry emperor, mourning cloak, Phydiodes tharos, question mark, red admiral, and white admiral.

There are a number of different swallowtail butterflies like the black swallowtail, Eastern tiger, giant, pipevine, two-tailed, and Zebra swallowtail. There are also various fritillary including Aphrodite, great spangled, gulf, and variegated fritillary.

There are over 4,000 species of bees native to North America. The above listing is just a drop in the bucket—and for a bee the division between state lines is just a quick flight so you may see the California bumblebee in Nevada or the Nevada bumblebee in California. At any rate, fill your garden with native bloomers such as milkweed, Liatris, black-eyed Susan, blanketflower, coneflower, wild bergamot, and butterfly weed to attract your bee friends.

Ornamental grasses add color, texture and vertical appeal to the landscape. Most require minimal care, and these landscaping plants come in a variety of sizes to meet any gardener's needs. Yet, if you live in the Midwest or the Ohio Valley, varieties of ornamental grasses for Missouri gardens may not perform as expected in Northern states.

Cool-Season vs. Warm-Season Ornamental Grass

As the name suggests, cool-season grass varieties do better when the temperature is between 60 to 75 degrees F. (15.5-24 C.). They begin growing early in the spring and enter a second growth period in the fall. Unless they are provided with supplemental water during the summer, these types of ornamental grasses typically go dormant midseason and turn brown.

Warm-season grasses like it hot and thrive in temperatures in the 80 to 95 degree F. (27-35 C.) range. These ornamental grasses begin growing later in the year and don't turn brown until fall. Which type of ornamental grass is right for you depends upon where you live.

Ornamental Grasses - Illinois, Indiana and Northern Midwest States

Although a few warm-season grasses are winter hardy in climates colder than zone 5, most are not. Ornamental grasses for Indiana and Illinois can include warm-season species in the lower portions of these states. For colder regions of the Midwest and Ohio Valley, consider these cool-season ornamental grasses that thrive in Zone 4.

Blue Fescue (Festuca ovina)

• Foliage: Silvery-blue
• Plume color: Light tan
• Height: 6-10 inches (15-25 cm.)

Blue Hair Grass (Koeleria glauca)

• Foliage: Blue green
• Plume color: Golden brown
• Height: 12 inches (30 cm.)

Blue Oat Grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens)

• Foliage: Steel blue
• Plume color: Light brown
• Height: 2 feet (.6 m.)

Bulbous Oat Grass (Arrhenatherum elatius)

• Foliage: Bluish-green with white stripes
• Plume color: Tan
• Height: 12 inches (30 cm.)

Feather Reed Grass (Calamagrostis acutiflora)

• Foliage: Dull green
• Plume color: Rosy pink to maroon
• Height: 3 feet (.9 m.)

Hakone Grass (Hakonechloa macra)

• Foliage: Creamy white, bright yellow and green striped
• Plume color: Inconspicuous
• Height: 1-2 feet (.3-.6 m.)

Ribbon Grass (Phalaris arundinacea)

• Foliage: Bright green with white stripes
• Plume color: Greenish white to pale pink
• Height: 2 to 3 feet (.6-.9 m.)

Tufted Hair Grass (Dechampsia caespitosa)

• Foliage: Dark green
• Plume color: Silvery white to golden
• Height: 2 to 3 feet (.6-.9 m.)

Ornamental Grass – Kentucky and Zone 5 Midwest States

While cool-season grasses thrive in the upper third of the US, warm-season grasses are best for Southern states. Gardeners in the middle third of the country can choose either. In addition to the cool-season species listed above, zone 5 Lower Midwest and Ohio ornamental grasses can include these warm-season species:

Chinese Silver (Maiden) Grass (Miscanthus sinensus)

• Foliage: Light green with ivory variegation
• Plume color: Silvery pink
• Height: 4 to 5 feet (1.2-1.5 m.)

Fountain Grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides)

• Foliage: Bright green
• Plume color: Buff to rosy white
• Height: 3 feet (.9 m.)

Giant Reed Grass (Arundo donax)

• Foliage: Bluish-green, green, or silver
• Plume color: Golden brown
• Height: 20 feet (6 m.)

Indian Grass (Sorghastrum nutans)

• Foliage: Pale green, dark green, or blue-green
• Plume color: Golden brown
• Height: 3 to 7 feet (.9-2.1 m.)

Japanese Blood Grass (Imperata cylindrica)

• Foliage: Green and red
• Plume color: Non-flowering
• Height: 2 to 20 feet (.6-6 m.)

Northern Sea Oats (Chasmanthium latifolium)

• Foliage: Green
• Plume color: Golden brown
• Height: 3 feet (.9 m.)

Plume Grass (Erianthus ravennae)

• Foliage: Greyish-green with white midribs
• Plume color: Silvery white
• Height: 14 feet (4.3 m.)

Purple Moor Grass (Molinia caerulea)

• Foliage: Dark green
• Plume color: Golden to maroon
• Height: 2 to 3 feet (.3-.6 m.)

Switch Grass (Panicum virgatum)

• Foliage: Green
• Plume color: Pinkish purple
• Height: 4 to 6 feet (1.2-1.8 m.)

The American Southwest features a sunny, arid climate nearly year round. Freezing temperatures do occur but the majority of the region is hot. Hostas are plants that prefer part to full shade in organic rich soil. They also need plenty of water. Hostas in New Mexico may not receive enough natural precipitation and will need a deep soak weekly. Colorado hostas, similarly, will need consistent moisture, but also protection from the deep winter chills.

Hostas are beautiful foliage plants with small flower spires. They come in a wide range of sizes, providing displays for any size of garden. Due to their cultural needs, hostas grown in the Southwest should be selected for drought and sun tolerance. Open areas of the landscape with little shade will produce poorly growing plants and will likely burn the gorgeous leaves. While the Southwest is characterized by hot temperatures, areas like Colorado get extremely cold in winter. Site selection is the most important consideration for growing hostas in the Southwest.

Can Hostas Grow in Arizona?

The Southwest comprises Arizona, New Mexico, and parts of Colorado, California, Nevada, Texas, Utah, and Oklahoma. This lower portion of the U.S. has desert-like lands, and in some cases actual deserts. In areas such as Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada, and Texas, temperatures commonly soar to the triple digits, while evening temperatures during certain times of the year drop to freezing. Such wild ranges in a single day pose many challenges for plants that are not native. However, even hostas may be grown in the region. Hostas perform well when they receive morning or late afternoon sun, with shade during the heat of the day. The soil in the Southwest can be anywhere from silty, to clay, to loam. Soil should be amended with well rotted compost prior to planting hostas to provide plenty of organic matter and porosity.

Site Selection for Hostas

Hostas' large leaves can burn on the margins and tips in full sun situations. But they do need sun to produce flowers and maintain their leaf colors. Variegated hostas may fade in full shade situations. The best locations are on the north or east side of the home. Eastern plants will receive morning light and afternoon shade. Northern hostas will have afternoon sun. Avoid planting hostas in a southern or western facing direction. As a rule, blue-leaved plants need more shade, but variegated gold, white, or yellow leaves tolerate more sun.

Hostas will grow well in containers as well. But with potted plants, the soil will dry out much quicker than in-ground hostas. Expect to deeply water in ground hostas once per week and container bound plants when the soil is dry to the touch. General potting soil is sufficient for container grown hostas, but a mulch over the top of the soil will conserve moisture.

Caring for Hosta in the Southwest

Hostas are quite stoic and have few pest or cultural problems. However, browsing animals love the plants. They should not be grown where deer are frequent visitors. Most other pests will ignore the plant with the exception of slugs and snails.

Average hosta water needs are around 1 inch (2.5 cm.) per week. But a hosta plant Utah-grown may experience different water needs from one in Arizona, especially in the fall and spring. Simply checking soil moisture levels with your hands is often the best way to determine if it is time to water. Another clue is wilting leaves. But yellowing leaves can be a sign there is too much water being applied. In good soil, hostas rarely need fertilizing. A diluted application in the spring, in a high nitrogen formula will keep leaves happy.

Water is at a premium right now. Drought frequency and length has increased by nearly a third globally since 2000. Lack of irrigation is just one reason many gardeners are looking for lawn alternatives. Native ground cover is one solution but there are also other lawn alternatives for denizens of New England and the surrounding region. Read on to learn about Northeast lawn alternatives.

Why Gardeners Should Try Lawn Alternatives

Water conservation isn’t the only reason a lawn alternative might be a good choice for your landscape. Lawns are high maintenance and often rely on a slew of toxic chemicals which are not only costly but also detrimental to our ecosystem and pollinator population.

Sure it’s nice for the kiddos to have grass to run and play on, not to mention Fido, but there are alternatives available that will combine the comfort of a lawn without the mess, labor, cost and deficit to the environment.

Best Ground Cover for New England

If you are thinking about replacing your turf grass, the first thing that might come to mind is a perennial ground cover. This is for good reason, but before you dive in, take a minute to consider your options. The common ground covers Vinca minor (periwinkle), English ivy, and pachysandra are highly invasive... not to mention rather uninspired. Practically everyone has one or all three of these ground covers.

That doesn’t mean ground covers aren’t a good lawn replacement. They fill in rapidly and need no mowing. Many other types of ground cover have root systems that resist soil erosion, are drought tolerant, evergreen and often have the benefit of blooming. Plus there are ground covers for sun drenched or shaded areas.

Sun loving alternatives to turf include bugleweed and hens and chicks. Shade alternatives include European ginger, Christmas fern and Allegheny spurge. Yes, the latter is a pachysandra, but this variety (P. procumbens) is an extremely hardy, drought tolerant, native plant worthy of a place in the landscape.

Low growing succulents can fit the bill when replacing lawn as well. One such option is Sedum takesimense ‘Atlantis’.

Lawn Alternatives for New England

Another lawn option is white clover (Trifolium repens). Once commonly found in grass seed mixes, white clover, like black medic (Medicago lupulina) and birdsfoot trefoil (Lotus corniculatus) fix nitrogen, which makes them act like a fertilizer. Other options include creeping thyme, ground ivy (G. hederacea), cinquefoil and common blue violet (Viola soraria), which is deer resistant.

If you would rather mimic the look of turf without the hassle of mowing, opt for “No-Mow” grass blends of fine fescue that, once established, require little care. Uncut fescue grows to about 12-15 inches (30-38 cm.) tall in mounds about 6 inches (15 cm.) in height that only need to be mowed four times a year to maintain a 4 inch (10 cm.) height. There are varieties suited for use in sun, shade and various soil conditions.

Other options for a lawn free area are sedges. One lawn alternative is Pennsylvania sedge (Carex pensylvanica). This 10-inch (25 cm) clumping grass is drought tolerant and discourages weeds. Another sedge, Seersucker sedge (Carex plantaginea) has puckered, wavy foliage while Carex laxiculmis (Spreading sedge) has silvery blue leaves.

Since sedges thrive in shade, a sun loving alternative lawn is sprawling Liriope spicata with violet flower spikes in the summer or Liriope muscari, a less aggressive clumping varietal. Both sedge and liriope should be mowed just once at the highest setting in the early spring.

Additional Alternative Lawn Ideas for Northeast Gardeners

A meadow garden comprised of a mix of grasses and perennials is a lovely option to a traditional lawn. Be aware however that these meadows take two to three years to establish. But once they do, they enliven the area with habitat, food and shelter for wildlife and pollinators.

Lastly, to reduce maintenance time, a lawn can simply be made smaller by expanding surrounding beds and adding trees, shrubs, ground covers, and perennial bloomers. With careful thought about your choices you can implement low maintenance, drought tolerant, pollinator friendly and non-invasive species that are sure to please the eye and reduce the necessity for labor, chemicals or irrigation.

Pollination is one of the motors of nature’s plant population, and, for centuries, the gardening community has appreciated the critical importance of pollinators. In California, "pollinators” means California native bees, of course, (bees are the most prolific pollinators), but also butterflies, flies, beetles and wasps, among many others. Note that there are a number of different types of bees in California, including bumble bees, long-horned bees, sweat bees, striped bees, furrow bees and mining bees. All are native pollinators.

Without pollinators, humans would have many fewer species of plants to feed us. In fact, it is not an exaggeration to say that the human race requires pollinators if we are to survive. And for pollinators to survive, they need plants.

As gardeners in the West, we can facilitate this important relationship by devoting space in our gardens for California native pollinator plants. Nothing will please California native pollinators more than the presence of these familiar plants.

What Are Native Pollinator Plants?

Pollinators are birds, insects or animals, so they need food on a regular basis. Most insect pollinators use flower nectar and pollen as food and plants as hosts for eggs. As more native meadows are lost as cities expand, it makes life hard for important pollinators. If they cannot find the requisite plants, their populations die off and they risk extinction.

Pollinator plants are plants that attract pollinators. Native pollinator plants for the West are plants that have been growing in California and Nevada for centuries and have adapted well to the climate. These are plants with nectar or pollen that meet the needs of bees and butterflies.

California Native Plants for Pollinators

Which plants are best for pollinators? Native plants win hands down. They are the plants that have become familiar to native pollinator species over centuries.

Most of these pollinator plants have large compound inflorescences of tiny flowers. The blossoms attract a wide range of small bees, flies, beetles, wasps and other pollinators. Most of them grow best in average soil in a full sun location. If you pick native plants to install in the garden, they will require less water and care than exotics and provide pollinators with food as well.

Great Native Pollinator Plants for the West

There are hundreds of Nevada and California pollinator plants from which to select for a pollinator garden. Milkweed might be the most well-known pollinator plants, and it is an essential plant for the beautiful, endangered Monarch species of butterfly. California's native milkweed is narrow-leaved milkweed, with slender, 5-inch (12.7 cm.) leaves and a five-inch flower cluster. It thrives near the coast and is often covered with monarch caterpillars in summer. Plant them in full sun, water well the first month, then leave them on their own.

Blue mountain lilac is another good choice for native pollinators. The 'Skylark' form of Ceanothus is a California native lilac cultivar with very dark green leaves and a mounding habit. This evergreen is covered with dark blue flowers in late spring to summer, attracting all types of native bees. Ceanothus is another water-wise and maintenance free native shrub.

California buckwheat is another native evergreen with pink flowers that are wildly attractive to bees, butterflies and other pollinators. This native presents as a low, spreading evergreen mat clothed with small, needle-like leaves. All through the growing season, tight clusters of creamy-whitish pink flowers appear which are very attractive to bees and butterflies. When they go to seed, they attract birds and mammals. Buckwheat grows in full sun to light shade with good drainage.

Taking care of your southern lawn may seem overwhelming at times, but it doesn’t have to be. Choosing the right lawn grass, plus proper watering, fertilizing, and mowing, will go a long way toward ending that frustration.

Not only is a well-cared for lawn attractive and increases the value of your home, but turfgrass can prevent soil erosion, direct runoff into the groundwater stream, provide a cooling effect through transpiration, absorb noise, produce oxygen, and trap carbon dioxide. What more could you ask of a lawn?

Learning the basics of southern lawn care will ease the maintenance tasks.

Southern Lawn Maintenance Guide and Schedule

Establishing and maintaining a lawn consists of choosing turfgrass suitable for your area, soil, and light, then mowing at the correct height, applying fertilizer, and watering deeply when needed. Controlling weeds as they arrive is also part of a lawn management program.

Here are tips to get the most out of your lawn with the least effort.

Grass Seed for Southern Lawns

Lawn grasses are divided into warm season and cool season grasses. Warm season grasses perform best at temperatures over 80 degrees F. (27 C.), and cool season grasses fare best at temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees F. (16-24 C.). For Southern gardens, recommended warm season grasses include Bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, St. Augustinegrass, and Centipedegrass. For cool season grasses, consider tall fescue, thin-leaved fescue, or in some areas, Kentucky bluegrass. Check with your county extension agent to see which one is best for your soil type.

Choosing a seed depends greatly on the amount of light available to the lawn. No grass seed performs well in full shade, but some grass seed can tolerate partial shade. Bermudagrass has the least shade tolerance, centipedegrass has medium shade tolerance, and St. Augustinegrass and Zoysiagrass have medium to excellent shade tolerance.

If you are battling full shade under a tree or next to a building, consider a groundcover or mulch instead of grass. Groundcovers for shade include liriope, Asian jasmine, mondo grass, holly fern, and mulch such as bark, pecan shell, and pine straw.

Best Fertilizer for Southern Lawns

Fertilizer is important for your lawn to improve its density, color, and recuperative ability. A healthy lawn can reduce weed invasion and is better able to withstand heat, cold, drought, and foot traffic.

Turfgrass requires nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), and ten other mineral elements to thrive. Nitrogen is the most important fertilizer for turfgrass since it is used the most and the other nutrients are typically available in many native topsoils. However, deciding how much and what type of fertilizer to use should be based on a soil test. Your county extension offers soil testing as well as other independent labs.

If the P, K, and pH levels are satisfactory, a typical fertilizer program for bermudagrass consists of a May application with a water-soluble complete fertilizer (20-5-10) using 1 pound of N per 1,000 square feet (93 m2), a June application with a slow-release fertilizer of 2 to 3 pounds N per 1,000 square feet (93 m2), and an August application with a slow-release fertilizer of 2 to 3 pounds N per 1,000 square feet (93 m2). If you do not use slow-release fertilizer, more applications would be needed with less fertilizer (June, July, August using 1 pound of N per 1,000 square feet (93 m2), and September using the same as May).

Cool season grasses do not need as much fertilizer as bermudagrass. A program example is to apply a complete fertilizer (20-5-10) in early October of 1 to 1.5 pounds N per 1,000 square feet (93 m2). In early December, apply nitrogen-only fertilizer of 1 to 1.5 pounds N per 1,000 square feet (93 m2). In early March, apply nitrogen-only fertilizer, 0.5 to 1.0 pound N per 1,000 square feet (93 m2). In mid-May, apply a complete fertilizer (20-5-10) with 0.5 to 1.0 pound N per 1,000 square feet (93 m2).

Mowing and Irrigating

Depending on the type of turfgrass, mowing heights will vary. The recommended heights promote a healthy turf that is better able to withstand foot traffic, environmental stresses, and encourage deep roots. Turfgrasses growing in shade should be cut one half inch (1 cm.) higher than normal. Warm season grasses are cut slightly higher in the fall to insulate the leaf blades against cooling temperatures.

• Bermudagrass is recommended to cut one half to three fourths inches (1-2 cm.) in the summer and one to one and one fourth inches (2.5-3 cm.) in the fall.
• Centipedegrass is recommended to cut 1.5 to 2 inches (4-5 cm).
• St. Augustinegrass is recommended to cut 2.5 inches (6 cm.) in the summer and 3 inches (8 cm.) in the fall.
• Zoysiagrass is recommended to cut one half to three fourths inches (1-2 cm.) in the summer and one to one and one fourth inches (2.5-3 cm.) in the fall.
• Tall fescue is recommended to cut 3 inches (8 cm.) in the summer and 2.5 inches (6 cm.) in the fall.
• Kentucky bluegrass is recommended to cut 2.5 inches (6 cm.) in the summer and fall.

Too often lawns are watered frequently and lightly, resulting in a shallow root system that can’t withstand the heat and cold. It is best to water at the first sign of water need, such as “footprinting” and a blue-gray appearance. Water deeply, i.e., to a 6 inch (15 cm.) depth. You can tell if the water has soaked that far by probing the soil. After a few times you will instinctively know how much time and water is needed to achieve deep watering. Early morning is usually the best time to water so that the grass has time to dry, thereby avoiding fungal issues.

Southern Lawn Weeds

Identifying and reducing lawn weeds is an important part of lawn management. With proper watering, fertilizing, and mowing, healthy lawns can ward off most weed invasions. A certain percentage of weeds is tolerable but plan a program utilizing herbicides for best control when weed problems arise.

Annual weeds complete their life cycle in one year but come back the next year from seed. An example of summer annual grassy weeds are crabgrass, goosegrass, and foxtail. Knotweed and spurge are examples of summer annual broadleaf weeds. A pre-emergent herbicide will control them before germination in early spring, or a post emergence herbicide will control them after they germinate and are actively growing.

Winter annual grassy weeds such as annual bluegrass, fescue grass, cheat, and downy brome also can be controlled with pre-emergent herbicides applied prior to germination (August to September) as can winter annual broadleaf weeds such as chickweed and henbit. Postemergence control can be applied when weeds have germinated and are actively growing, usually in October and November.

Perennial weeds such as dallisgrass, dandelion, clover, and nutsedge are harder to control because they can come back from underground plant parts. If you pull out a dandelion and the whole root doesn’t come with it, you can expect to see it grow back. Nutsedge needs a pre-emergence herbicide applied in early spring before germination of nutlets. Then in June, apply a postemergence herbicide (organic arsenicals). Dandelions and clover are best controlled in October and November with a postemergence herbicide such as 2,4-D or 2,4-D plus dicamba.

Southern Lawn Care Schedule

Bermudagrass

• January – Postemergence winter weed control.
• February – Postemergence winter weed control. Keep lawn mowed closely at recommended heights. Most winter weeds cannot tolerate close mowing.
• March – Soil test; correct phosphorus or potassium deficiencies or extreme pH levels; postemergence winter weed control; pre-emergence summer annual grassy weed control at the end of month.
• April – Pre-emergence summer annual grassy weed control the first part of month.
• May – N, P, K fertilizer application; postemergence summer weed control; insect and disease control as problems arise; mowing. May is an ideal time to sprig, plug, or sod bermudagrass. Do not apply pre-emergence herbicides in March or April on areas to be seeded.
• June – N application; postemergence summer weed control; insect and disease control as problems arise; mowing; watering.
• July – Same as June.
• August – N application; sod webworm control as problems arise; watering; mowing.
• September – N, P, K, fertilizer application; pre-emergent winter weed control by the middle of month; watering; begin raising the height of cut.
• October – Begin postemergence winter weed control at the end of month.
• November and December – Soil test; postemergence winter weed control.

-Adapted from Oklahoma and Mississippi Extension

A lawn care schedule in the Midwest is all about timing. Upper Midwest turf is made up of cool season grasses, which has a particular seasonal cycle. For the best results, match up spring, summer, and fall lawn care in the Midwest with the turf’s seasonal needs.

Upper Midwest Turf Cycle

Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota, and Iowa lawn care is similar and timed to the changing seasons of this region. Cool season turf grasses grown in this area go through a specific growth cycle:

• Spring brings a surge in growth in Midwest turf grass. The roots should be deep and rich with nutrients stored in the fall.
• As temperatures rise in summer, cool season grass slows its growth way down. The roots can become damaged in very hot temperatures.
• Fall brings another surge in growth as the grass recovers in cooler temperatures. This surge is not as big as the one that occurs in spring.
• The grass roots start storing energy and growing deeper in fall in preparation for going dormant in winter.

When to Fertilize a Lawn in Michigan, Iowa, Wisconsin, and Minnesota

The best time to fertilize cool season turf is August through October. Fall is when the roots really need to take up nutrients to store over the winter. You can also fertilize in May and early June.

Avoid fertilizing early in spring. This encourages too much leaf growth when temperatures might still get too cold. Also avoid fertilizing on the hot days of summer. This can damage the grass.

Nitrogen is one of the most important nutrients for turf growth, but don’t go overboard. A typical lawn needs four pounds (1.8 kg) of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet (92 square meters) each year. Don’t apply more than one pound (0.5 kg) in any one application. Too much nitrogen compromises root growth and can even burn the leaves.

Mowing in the Growing Season

Mowing correctly is essential to turf health. Mow as needed from spring through fall, but never cut the grass too short. Keep it to a height of about three inches (7.6 cm). And never remove more than one-third of the grass’s height in one mowing.

You can stop mowing during the hottest days of summer when the turf’s growth slows way down. If you water regularly in summer, continue to mow as needed. Leave mulched grass clippings on the lawn rather than bagging.

Watering the Midwest Lawn

Cool season turf grass needs one inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week from spring through fall. If your lawn isn’t getting enough due to lack of rainfall, it’s best to water it. Place a few empty cans around the lawn to measure how much water your sprinkler provides.

It is perfectly fine for the grass to stop watering in summer. Let the grass go dormant and brown, and it will return as the temperatures cool. If you want green grass all summer, you will most likely need to supplement rain water.

When to Dethatch a Lawn in Wisconsin, Michigan, Iowa, and Minnesota

Dethatching is the removal of the layer of dead grass and other organic material that sits on the surface of the soil. It’s not an annual chore, but removing it every few years is good for turf. Too much thatch blocks water, fertilizer, and oxygen from getting to the roots. It can also promote pests and diseases.

Early spring and fall are the best times to dethatch in the upper Midwest. Don’t do it in the summer when the lawn can get stressed. Also avoid dethatching a new lawn. Give it a few years before tackling this chore.

Managing Weeds

Weeds are not necessarily a problem in the turf. In fact, a more diverse lawn is healthier. However, if you want to manage them to some degree, timing is important. Do not apply herbicides in hot weather. This can cause serious damage to the grass.

To manage crabgrass, use a pre-emergent herbicide between mid-April and mid-May. You need to catch it before it actually appears in the turf.

Seasonal lawn care in the upper Midwest follows the growth cycle of cool season grass. Work with your turf and time chores correctly for a healthy, green lawn.

The best bushes for Northeast gardeners depend upon a variety of criteria. Are you looking for deer resistant shrubs for your Northeast garden, or native New England shrubs? Do you prefer evergreen shrubs, or are you more focused on flowering bushes? Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered. Keep reading to learn about the best bushes for your Northeastern garden.

Types of Bushes for Northeast Gardeners

If you are looking for low maintenance plantings look no further than shrubs native to New England and the northeasta. Native plants have many advantages, not the least of which is that over time they have become adapted to the climate they grow in. This means they are often low maintenance having acclimated to drought or consistently wet soil or high summer or frigid winter temperatures. This ups their survivability significantly.

Native plants also provide shelter and food for local animals as well as nectar and pollen for birds, bees, and other pollinators.

That said, you may have your heart set on a non-native species for your New England landscape. Non-native plants may give you a specific year-round interest, height, bloom color, and more that you are searching for.

Before you invest in shrubs for the garden, identify exactly what you are looking for in height, bloom time and color, ability to attract pollinators and wildlife, low maintenance, deer resistance, or other needs.

Landscape Planning Tips

Once you’ve decided on your plant needs, it’s time to check out the specifics of your landscape. Is your soil mostly silt, clay, or sand? Well-draining or wet? Is the soil neutral, acidic, or alkaline? The best way to determine the content of your soil is by doing a soil test.

Also consider your sun exposure. Does the area you wish to plant sit in full sun, partial sun, or part shade? How many hours of sun does the site get? Full sun is determined to be an area with six or more hours of direct sun, part sun four to six, and part shade two to four. A completely shaded site gets less than two hours of direct sun per day.

Most plants need a supplemental water source; even drought tolerant plants need supplemental water when young. Is there sufficient water available in this area?

Once you have an idea of the condition of your garden, it’s time to research plants. Before you purchase you should know about the growth habit, especially the shrubs' mature size, rate of growth, spread, invasive potential, and of course maintenance required.

Evergreen Shrubs for New England

Some gardeners think of evergreens as rather boring but many of them not only provide a supportive backdrop to the garden but yield colorful foliage or berries sure to entice wildlife while adding a pop of color to the winter landscape.

Evergreen shrubs suited to New England include:

• Japanese Pieris ‘Katsura'
• Meserve Holly ‘Conapry'
• Viburnum ‘Cree'
• Rhododendron
• Azalea
• Gardenia
• False cypress
• Mirror bush
• Inkberry holly
• Arborvitae
• Wintercreeper
• Juniper
• Boxwood
• Yew
• Spruce
• Japanese holly
• Mugo pine
• Mahonia

These are all suited to east coast gardens. Some of them do double duty; not only are they evergreen but they provide year-round interest and/or bloom or fruit.

Deer Resistant Bushes for Northeastern Gardens

Deer can be indiscriminate and rapacious eaters but there are some shrub choices even they turn their noses up at. Generally, deer eschew plants that are toxic, aromatic, and heavily tactile. Some of the shrubs listed above as evergreens fit the bill such as arborvitae, inkberry, pieris, boxwood, holly, and yew.

Other options for deer resistant shrubbery include:

• mountain laurel
• eastern red cedar
• bayberry
• bluebeard
• spirea
• barberry
• juniper
• bamboo
• wintercreeper

If you are looking for deer resistant shrubs that bloom, try planting butterfly bush (Buddleia), Russian sage, and swamp rose. Lilac, bottlebrush buckeye, witch hazel, mock orange, camellia, some dogwood (Kousa, Red Osier, and Red Twigged), and rose of Sharon are additional blooming shrubs that deer seem to be disinterested in.

When gardeners think of pollinators, managed hives of European honeybees often come to mind. Yet, here in the Ohio Valley and Central Midwest region, there are hundreds of species of native bees, butterflies, moths, and other insects that help pollinate our vegetable gardens and flowerbeds. Planting Midwest and Missouri native pollinator plants is one way to protect these valuable species.

The Purpose of a Pollinator Garden: Ohio Valley Region

Protecting pollinators can't be overstressed. It's estimated one of every three bites of food is the result of cross-pollination by pollinators. If you like tomatoes, here's a fun fact: native bumble bees are more effective at pollinating tomato flowers than the European honeybee.

While most gardeners are aware that honeybee populations have been declining, they may not realize that many native species of pollinators are also endangered. By creating a pollinator garden, Tennessee, Kentucky, and Central Midwest gardeners can help protect these and many more vulnerable species:

• Bumble bees – Easily identified by their large size and yellow and black coloration, bumble bees live in underground colonies. Unlike honeybees, bumble bees will pollinate flowers in the rain.
• Carpenter bees – Often considered a nuisance species due to their propensity to chew holes in wood structures, carpenter bees pollinate a variety of fruit crops. Unlike honeybees, they can vibrate flowers and dislodge pollen.
• Leaf cutter bees – So named because they harvest pieces of leaves to line their nests, leaf cutter bees are important pollinators for the production of alfalfa seed.
• Masked bees – Mostly black, these small bees are often mistaken for wasps. Masked bees pollinate elderberries, goldenrod, and Queen Anne's lace.
• Mining bees – Small to medium sized, mining bees are soil dwellers that pollinate spring-blooming fruit crops such as apples, blueberries, and cherries.
• Mason bees – Also known as orchard bees, this species is fond of pollinating fruit-bearing trees and shrubs. They are cavity nesters who sometimes take advantage of holes made by other insects.
• Polyester bees – So named for the plastic-like secretion they produce, polyester bees are a solitary, ground nesting species. With a preference for woody plants, these bees pollinate trees such as sugar maples and plums.
• Squash bees – Sporting coloration similar to honeybees, squash bees are important pollinators of cucurbit crops. The males can sometimes be seen sleeping overnight in squash flowers.

How to Make a Pollinator Garden

Creating a pollinator friendly garden is not difficult. It involves providing food, shelter, and water for all stages of the pollinator's life. Here are a few tips to get you started:

• Plant a diverse group of native plants that bloom throughout the year.
• Leave hollow stemmed plants intact over the winter to provide shelter for nesting bees.
• Limit the use of weed barriers to allow ground nesting bees access to the soil.
• Refrain from being too tidy. Not mowing every bit of the yard or leaving a few logs, a brush pile, or stump provides resting spots and shelter to pollinators.
• Use a bird bath, fountain, or shallow bowl to give pollinators access to water.
• Avoid using pesticides and herbicides. These can indiscriminately kill pollinators or plants that are necessary for their survival.

Midwest and Ohio Pollinator Plants

When choosing plants for the garden, consider these Midwest and Indiana native pollinator plants.

Spring Blooming

• Cream Wild Indigo (Baptisia bracteata)
• Culver's Root (Veronicastrum virginicum)
• Foxglove Beardtongue (Penstemon digitalis)
• New Jersey Tea (Ceanothus americanus)
• Smooth Spiderwort (Tradescantia ohiensis)
• Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum)
• Wild Lupine (Lupinus perennis)

Summer Blooming

• Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)
• Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)
• Field Thistle (Cirsium discolor)
• Prairie Blazing Star (Liatris pycnostachya)
• Purple Coneflower (Echinacea pallida)
• Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata)
• Yellow Giant Hyssop (Agastache nepetoides)

Fall Blooming

• Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium spp)
• Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)
• Maximilian Sunflower (Helianthus maximiliana)
• New England Aster (Aster novae-angliae)
• Showy Goldenrod (Solidago speciosa)
• Tall Ironweed (Vernonia gigantea)
• Wingstem (Verbesina alternifolia)

Smooth, clipped, green lawns used to be a highly desirable choice for a front lawn in California and Nevada. But with the continued drought, many gardeners are turning toward grass alternatives that require less water and less maintenance. California native grasses are becoming increasingly popular for Western gardens.

Lawns in the West

Many people know well-clipped, weed-free turf-grass as the “forever” standard for the American lawn. But history disproves this. This short, neat lawn was largely the result of the popularity of the game of golf, and it didn’t move into the backyards of residences until the development of the garden hose and sprinkler.

The standard was promoted by the American Garden Club that described the desired result as “a plot with a single type of grass with no intruding weeds, kept mown at a height of an inch and a half, uniformly green, and neatly edged.” Sadly, this resulted in significant pollution from weedkillers and fertilizers.

New American Lawn

Concerns about pollution as well as dwindling water supplies have spurred the Western gardener to consider alternatives to grass lawns in California and Nevada. Fortunately, there are more than a few native grasses in the state that make excellent lawn substitutes, using less water and requiring less maintenance.

Which is the best California native no-mow grass? That depends entirely on what a particular gardener is looking for in a California or Nevada grass. Homeowners who stay flexible will be able to create low-growing, grass-like plants for a backyard where children can play.

Nevada/California Native Lawn Alternatives

Let’s look at native plants that make good lawn alternatives for sunny areas. Here are four to try:

• Bentgrass (Agrostis pallens) is a soft-beneath-the-feet, fine-bladed warm season grass that only needs irrigation twice a month and one mowing mid-season.
• Red fescue (Festuca rubra ‘Molate’) can grow into a gently waving, knee-high field of grass or you can mow it down to a few inches to resemble turf. It’s a cool season grass that will be green all summer and fall.
• California Oatgrass (Danthonia californica) resembles turf in its low-growing ways with once-a-month mowing. It likes an occasional drink in summer but will survive without one.
• Common Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) is a broad-leaf plant that looks like turf if mowed every month but surprises with pink or white flowers of left unmowed. And it has the advantage of shrugging off foot-traffic.

For Western homeowners with shady or poorly drained areas, here are a few native options:

• Meadow sedge (Carex praegracilis) is native to much of North America, growing in wet environments like meadows and wetlands. It produces sharply triangular stems and flower cluster topping flower spikes. It works well in poorly draining areas and between pavers, with a soft, mowable texture.
• Blue Star Creeper (Laurentia fluviatilis) has the soft, green look of turf grass but is extremely low-maintenance.
• Creeping Clover (Trifolium repens ‘Autopurpureum’) is a low-growing clover with deep red leaves. It thrives in light shade or full sun sites and is drought tolerant.

Ornamental grass offers so much beauty with so little maintenance that many gardeners decide to switch out their turf grass. It you are one of them, take all the time you need to select an appropriate ornamental grass species that will grow happily in your area. The idea is to select a native species. If you live in the northeast of the country, you’ll be glad to hear that there are more than a few native ornamental grasses for New England.

New England Ornamental Grasses

Ornamental grass is a wonderful substitute for turf grass if you live in the Northeast. Not only are New England ornamental grasses eye-catching, with interesting texture and movement, but they are also exceptionally low maintenance. They are very adaptable and grow well in almost any sunny location in well-drained soil.

Picking Mid-Atlantic native grasses guarantees you an extremely cold hardy species and a grass well-adapted to the climate. These native ornamentals are generally warm-season grass that grow rapidly in the spring and summer, bloom in late summer or fall, and go dormant through the winter. In general, native grasses are best. Consider some of the following species for New Hampshire landscapes.

Native Ornamental Grasses Northeast

Native ornamental grasses for New England should be hardy to USDA zones 3 and 4 when planted in an appropriate location. The grasses are varied in appearance, but each has its own graceful beauty. Here are some to consider:

Indian Grass (Sorghastrum nutans) is a tall clumping grass with blue-green foliage to 8 feet (2 m.) tall with a feathery seed head of toasty brown. Indian grass needs a site with sun and is hardy to USDA zone 3.

Purple love grass (Eragrostis spectabilis) is a shorter grass, growing to 2 feet (61 cm.) tall and offering lovely clouds of purple seed heads. Purple love grass likes dry soil and works well in mass plantings.

Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) is a great choice for those who love colorful ornamental grass. Little bluestem boasts gorgeous blue foliage that turns orange and red in autumn plus purple seed heads. It grows in dense and compact to 3 feet (1 m.) tall. It prefers dry soil and attracts wildlife.

Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum), hardy to USDA zone 4, is tall, growing to 6 feet (2 m.). Switchgrass’s green foliage turns red in fall, and the flowers grow in long red panicles. This native is easy to grow with a wide soil tolerance. It will require a sunny site since it does not tolerate shade.

Big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) is one of the tallest and most attractive native grasses in Maryland. Growing to 8 feet (2 m.) tall, big bluestem’s foliage is blue-green in summer but turns to fiery colors in fall. The seed head is said to resemble a turkey’s foot. Adaptable and tolerant, it is wonderful as a wildlife habitat.

Caring for Native Ornamental Grasses

Native ornamental grasses have adapted not just to New England climates, but also to growing in poor soil. They need little or no fertilizer if you mix a little compost into the soil.

What about water? These grasses are very drought tolerant once established, but that doesn’t mean they never need a drink. They need irrigation the first summer after planting, especially if the weather is dry. Ideally, mature grasses will get one inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week from rain or irrigation.

Don’t worry about mowing the grass every few weeks. Ornamental grasses only need to be cut back once a year to look great. Cutting them to within a few inches (8 cm.) from the ground in fall or spring is best. If you wait until spring, ornamental grasses provide winter interest and serve as a natural food source for wildlife.

You’ll also want to divide grass clumps every three to five years. Just dig up the clump and chop it into a few pieces with a shovel or axe, then replant. This process is best undertaken in spring before new growth begins.

As in other areas, destructive garden bugs in Montana, Nebraska, Wyoming and the Dakotas can devastate garden crops and challenge your skills as a gardener. If you live in these states, here are the ten most damaging bugs for your region and a list of potential pests you may find lurking among your garden plants.

Devasting Insects in South Dakota and Beyond

Aphids – Considered the most common garden pest, aphids weaken plants by sucking sap and transmitting plant diseases. Chemical control is fairly ineffective as aphids cluster on the underside of foliage. Instead, dislodge these pests with strong blasts of water from the hose and release predatory insects to keep populations in check.

Blister Beetles – Although these caustic bugs are particularly problematic in alfalfa fields, blister beetles also defoliate garden plants like peas, beans, tomatoes and potatoes. It's not advisable to handpick these insects as they produce a toxic bodily fluid that will blister skin. Instead, shake infected plants over a bucket of hot soapy water to dislodge and catch these pests. Dispose of the dead bugs and water carefully as it will contain the blister-causing agent.

Cabbage Loopers – A major pest of cruciferous vegetables, cabbage looper larvae feed on leaves and burrow into the heads of cabbage. Pheromone and light traps can reduce adult moth populations, but applications of Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) immediately after the eggs hatch is effective against the larval stage.

Colorado Potato Beetles – Unlike what its name suggests, Colorado potato beetles are also one of most devastating Northwest, Dakotas and Nebraska insects found in the home garden. Furthermore, their reign of terror extends beyond potato plants to other members of the nightshade family. Control populations by handpicking or vacuuming adult beetles, larva and eggs from plants and soil.

Cutworms – If you're finding young plants cut off near the soil surface, the culprit is most likely a cutworm. These nocturnal feeders can be found in the soil around the base of plants during the day. Transplants and seedlings can be protected by inserting a 4 inch (10 cm.) tall cardboard ring around the plant stems.

Flea Beetles – While the larvae live underground and can damage the roots of vegetable plants, damage from adult flea beetles appears as multitudes of tiny holes chewed in the foliage. Tilling the soil in the fall and using row covers can help keep this pest from damaging garden crops.

Grasshoppers – These hungry pests eat twice their weight every day and prefer some of the tastiest garden crops including beans, carrots, lettuce, onions and sweet corn. A backyard flock of chickens or ducks can keep these bugs under control, but applying a garlic spray can also be effective.

Mexican Bean Beetles – Problematic in gardens east of the Rocky Mountains, these Dakota, Nebraska, Wyoming and Montana insects skeletonize the leaves of legumes, okra and eggplants. Prevent populations from overwintering in the garden by tilling under plant debris in the fall.

Thrips – These tiny insects pierce foliage and feed upon plant fluids. Their damage can be identified by the silver speckling and white patches on leaves. Controlling thrips can be difficult, but using sticky strips, neem oil or insecticidal soaps can help. Clean up garden debris, especially onions, to prevent overwintering.

Tomato Hornworms – These large caterpillars can be as scary as they are damaging. This larval stage of hummingbird moths can quickly defoliate tomato plants. Picking caterpillars off plants and tilling the soil in the spring are the best methods of control.

Additional Nebraska, Wyoming, Montana, South and North Dakota Bugs

• Aspargus Beetles
• Black Grass Bugs
• Bumble Flower Beetles
• Cottony Maple Scales
• Cucumber Beetles
• Diamondback Moths
• European Earwigs
• Frit Flies
• Green June Bugs
• Harlequin bugs
• Hollyhock Weevils
• Japanese Beetles
• Leafhoppers
• Potato Psyllids
• Purple Carrot Seed Moths
• Rose Curculios
• Sap Beetles
• Slugs
• Spider Mites
• Squash Bugs
• Squash Vine Borers
• Tomato Fruitworms

There are many good reasons to include native plants in the landscape. Not only are these species well-adapted to the environment and require less care, but they also benefit indigenous animals, birds, and insects. Here's a comprehensive list of native plants Northeast gardeners are sure to love.

Perennial Flowering and Foliage Plants

Whether you're looking for Maryland native plants to add a bit of color to your cottage garden or you're tired of fickle ornamentals in your upstate New York backyard, these native plants will add visual interest to any flowerbed:

• Alumroot (Heuchera americana)
• Aromatic Aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolius)
• Bee Balm (Monarda fistulosa)
• Blue-eyed Grass (Sisyrinchium angustifolium)
• Blue Iris (Iris versicolor)
• Blue Wild Indigo (Baptisia australis)
• Bugbane (Cimicifuga racemosa)
• Butterfly Milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa)
• Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis)
• Common Boneset (Eupatorium perfoliatum)
• Common Sneezeweed (Helenium autumnale)
• Culver's Root (Veronicastrum virginicum)
• Cutleaf Coneflower (Redbeckia laciniata)
• Dwarf Crested Iris (Iris cirstata)
• False Solomon's Seal (Smilacina racemosa)
• Foxglove Beardtongue (Penstemon digitalis)
• Garden Phlox (Phlox paniculata)
• Golden Alexanders (Zizia aurea)
• Golden Ragwort (Senecio aureus)
• Great Blue Lobelia (Lobelia siphilitica)
• Green-and-Gold (Chrysogonum virginianum)
• Heartleaf Foam Flower (Tiarella cordifolia)
• Jacob's Ladder (Polemonium reptans)
• Marsh Blazing Star (Liatris spicata)
• Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris)
• Meadow Bottle (Gentiana clausa)
• New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae)
• New York American Aster (Symphyotrichum novi-beggii)
• New York Ironweed (Vernonia noveboracensis)
• Orange Coneflower (Rudbeckia fulgida)
• Ox-eye Sunflower (Heliopsis helianthoides)
• Red Columine (Aquilegia canadensis)
• Scarlet Bee Balm (Monardo didyma)
• Showy Goldenrod (Solidago speciosa)
• Slender Mountain Mint (Pycanthemum tenuifolium)
• Solomon's Seal (Polygonatum biflorum)
• Spotted Cranebill (Geranium maculatam)
• Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata)
• Swamp Sunflower (Helianthus angustifolius)
• Swamp Verbena (Verbena hastata)
• Sweet Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium purpureum)
• Tall Coreopsis (Coreopsis tripteris)
• Trumpetweed (Eutrochium fistulosum)
• Turk's Cap Lily (Lilium michiganense)
• Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia virginica)
• White Turtlehead (Chelone glabra)
• White Woodland Aster (Eurybia divaricatus)
• Wild Bleeding Heart (Dicentra eximia)
• Wild Ginger (Asarum canadense)

Ferns

From the western edge of Pennsylvania to the top of Maine, native plants in these fern species are the perfect accent foliage for shady areas of the garden:

• Cinnamon Fern (Osmundastrum cinnamomeum)
• Interrupted Fern (Osmunda claytoniana)
• Marginal Wood Fern (Dryopteris marginalis)
• Northern Lady Fern (Athyrium angustum)
• Ostrich Fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris)
• Royal Fern (Osmunda regalis)
• Sensitive Fern (Onoclea sensibilis)

Grasses, Rushes, and Sedges

Why struggle with non-native species of turf grass and ornamentals in the garden? Try these New England and Pennsylvania native plants instead.

• Common Rush (Juncus effusus)
• Fox Sedge (Carex vulpinoidea)
• Indian Grass (Sorghastrum nutans)
• Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)
• Pennsylvania Sedge (Carex pensylvanica)
• Prairie Dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis)
• Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum)
• Tussock Sedge (Carex stricta)

Bushes

Whether you're looking for blueberry plants that thrive in New Jersey or native hydrangea, Northeast gardeners have an array of indigenous shrubs from which to choose:

• American Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens)
• Arrowhead (Viburnum dentatum)
• Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis)
• Common Witchhazel (Hamamelis virginiana)
• Common Winterberry (Ilex verticillata)
• Cranberrybush (Viburnum opulus)
• Eastern Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius)
• Fragrant Sumac (Rhus aromatica)
• Gray Dogwood (Swida racemosa)
• Highbush Blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum)
• Lowbush Blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium)
• Nannyberry (Viburnum lentago)
• Red Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia)
• Redosier Dogwood (Swida sericea)
• Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia)
• Silky Dogwood (Swida amomum)
• Small Bayberry (Morella caroliniensis)
• Sweet Fern (Comptonia peregina)
• Sweet Pepper Bush (Clethra alnifolia)

Trees

Let's not forget the many species of native trees which comprise acres of forest land in Northeastern United States. These indigenous plants will be at home in backyards throughout the region:

• American Elm (Ulmus americana)
• American Holly (Ilex opaca)
• American Hornbeam (Carpinus caroliniana)
• Blackgum (Nyssa sylvatica)
• Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis)
• Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana)
• Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida)
• Northern Red Oak (Quercus rubra)
• Pawpaw (Asimina triloba)
• Pin Oak (Quercus palustris)
• Red Maple (Acer rubrum)
• River Birch (Betula nigra)
• Sugar Maple (Acer saccharum)
• White Oak (Quercus alba)
• White Pine (Pinus strobus)