Garlic is an undisputed king in the kitchen, and a tasty foundational ingredient in all manner of dishes. But in the garden, it’s often a victim of its own reputation. We’re told it’s easy and hardy, which leads many gardeners to fall into the "plant it and forget it" trap. You tuck those cloves into the soil in October, walk away, and expect giant, papery heads come July. And quite often… it can be underwhelming.

Here’s the cold, hard truth: it’s a myth that you can simply plant garlic cloves in the fall and leave them until harvest time. If you want bulbs that impress, you cannot leave them to fend for themselves in the winter. Right now, in the chilly February soil, your garlic is stirring. It’s transitioning from a sleepy winter slumber to a high-speed growth phase. You need to seize this moment to help it reach its full potential.

By being proactive this month, you aren't just feeding a plant, you are bulking up your future harvest. The secret is adding a fertilizer for garlic at the key moment to promote leafy, green growth and big bulbs. Here’s how to give your garlic the late-winter energy drink it’s craving.

February Wake-Up Call for Garlic

Using fertilizer for garlic plants is important because it won’t grow well in poor soil. Garlic is a heavy feeder, meaning it has an Olympic-sized appetite for nutrients. Even if you amended your soil beautifully in the fall, those nutrients have likely been washed away by winter rains or locked up by the cold.

Imagine waiting 8 months for a garlic harvest, only to pull up bulbs the size of marbles. That’s stunting, and it usually happens because the plant didn't have enough fuel during its spring stretch. February is the most critical time to intervene. This is especially true if your soil tends to be nutrient-poor.

February is when the garlic starts to wake up and transition from dormancy to rapid growth. So this late winter boost is critical. A one-time fed now pays off big time in a few months. By feeding now, you ensure the plant has a massive solar panel of green leaves. Remember, more leaves in March means bigger bulbs in July.

The Big Late Winter Energy Drink

So, what is your garlic craving in February as the roots spread, and the green leaves begin to grow? Answer: it wants nitrogen. This is the primary nutrient that supports green, leafy growth. Those leaves contain the chlorophyll that harnesses energy from the sun and feeds the plant directly.

While the bulb grows underground, it is entirely powered by the leafy greens above. It is the energy stored in the leaves that directly plumps up those bulbs. Nitrogen is the primary driver of that lush, green foliage. If your garlic develops small, yellowish, or spindly leaves now, it simply won't have the energy to swell those cloves later.

There is no fixing small garlic in June – the work happens now in February. Think of high-nitrogen fertilizer as a physical therapy session for your garlic after a long winter nap. Fertilizing garlic in February gets the circulation moving, and growth exploding.

Hardneck versus Softneck

Depending on your preferences and your climate, you might be growing hardneck or softneck garlic. The type of garlic you’re growing dictates how aggressive you should be with your February boost.

• Hardneck Garlic: These are the cold-climate superstars. Because they have a relatively short, intense growing window, they are the most desperate for that February nitrogen hit. Don't be shy, these hard-stalk garlic varieties need the fuel to produce those thick stalks, and eventually those delicious scapes.
• Softneck Garlic: Often grown in milder climates, these softer stalked options have a longer runway. While they definitely need a feed, they are a bit more sensitive to over-fertilizing. A steady, moderate hand is best here to avoid burning the plants with too much salt-based fertilizer.

Although they both benefit from a February feeding, you might want to tweak the plan based on the variety. When growing garlic in winter, a nitrogen application is most important for hardneck varieties. They have a shorter growing season, and really need that infusion of nutrients.

Shop Nitrogen Fertilizers for Garlic

In order to bulk up your garlic bulbs the right way, look at the N-P-K ratio (the three numbers on the bag). You want that first number (nitrogen) to be the highest. Organic feeds are especially effective while the soil is still cold. Consider these:

How to Feed Garlic in Cold Soil

In February, the soil can still be temperamental. You have two main pro-strategies. There may be some new leaf growth, but you won’t want to wait for the rapid growth stage. If your soil is cold, the easiest way to fertilize is by broadcasting.

If you have a thick layer of straw or woodchips, you can simply scatter granular fertilizer (like blood meal) right on top. As the February rains fall, they will carry the nutrients down to the root zone without you having to disturb the soil. This will provide a slow, time-released feed.

When you’re able to dig into the soil, you can do a side-dressing. Use a hand trowel or combi hand tool like the Garden Guru Hoe and Tiller from Amazon to create a shallow trench 3 inches (8 cm) from the garlic stems. Sprinkle fertilizer in the trench, cover it back up, and water it in. This puts the food where the roots can reach it.

And if you need a gentler feed for softneck varieties, use a balanced approach. You can buy All-In-One Organic: Espoma Organic Garden-tone (3-4-4) from Amazon.

Regional Tweaks for Bigger Bulbs

While February is the general rule for feeding garlic, your local micro-climate might have a part to play. Here’s how to adjust, based on where you’re digging:

• Frozen North (Zones 3-5): If your ground is an ice block in February, don’t panic. Your February feeding might happen in early March. Wait until the snow melts and you see the first tiny green beaks poking through the soil. That is your signal to broadcast blood meal on top of the remaining slush.
• Mild South (Zones 8-10): In warmer regions, your garlic likely never went fully dormant. By February, it might already be 10 inches (25 cm) tall. For you, this isn't just a wake-up call – it’s the main course. Ensure you are watering consistently after fertilizing, as southern Februarys can occasionally have dry, flash-drought spells that can stress the plants.
• Rainy Pacific Northwest: High rainfall in the PNW can leach nitrogen out of the soil faster than the plants can eat it. Instead of one big heavy feeding of granular fertilizer, consider two smaller snacks – one in early February and another in early March – using a liquid fish emulsion to ensure the nutrients are getting directly to the roots.
• High Plains & Mountain West: Your biggest enemy isn't just the cold; it’s the wind. If you are broadcasting fertilizer over mulch, make sure to water it in immediately or lightly scratch it into the soil surface. Otherwise, that expensive nitrogen might literally blow away into your neighbor’s yard.

Your February Garlic Checklist

Feeding is the priority for your plants in February, but it shouldn’t stop there. To ensure your garlic hits its full potential, tackle these 3 tasks before the month ends:

• Moving Mulch: If a warm spell hits, gently pull back some of your heavy winter mulch. This allows the sun to hit the soil directly, waking up the microbial life and warming the roots. If you need to refresh your mulch after feeding, use a high quality weed-free straw such as Blue Mountain Organic Garden Straw Mulch from Amazon.
• Aggressive Weeding: Garlic hates competition, and this is a point where it needs to feel like the boss in the patch. Any weed growing in February is stealing the nitrogen you just paid for. Get them out now while they’re small. Early and frequent weeding protects the garlic from being outcompeted for nutrients and water.
• Monitoring Soil Moisture: Garlic likes damp conditions, but not soggy feet. If you’ve had a dry winter, give plants a light drink. If it’s been a swamp, ensure your drainage is clear, so that the bulbs don't rot before they can grow.

Mark your calendar to stop all nitrogen feeding by late April or early May (whenever scapes begin to appear). Too much fertilizer at this point will delay bulb development. Keep watering your garlic plants until about 2 weeks before harvest time. Too much water at this point can reduce the quality of the bulbs. They’re ready to harvest when about half of the leaves have died back.

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Garlic planting schedule matters to nail a killer harvest. Pick the best time to plant garlic by zone, and your cloves will thrive. No matter your experience level, these moves keep your garlic game strong.

Timing is everything when you're learning when to plant garlic by zone. Wrong move, and your cloves flop, barely sprouting or bolting early. Get it right, and you’re pulling fat bulbs next summer. Where you live sets the rules, so zone matters big time.

Soil prep’s key for when to plant garlic, and growing garlic starts with loose dirt. Break up clumps, add compost, and keep it drained. Poor soil tanks your crop, but good prep locks in strong roots. Get this right, and your garlic’s off to a solid start.

Garlic varieties and their cold needs shape your garlic planting schedule. Hardneck or softneck picks depend on your zone’s winter chill. Some need a cold snap to bulb up, others don’t. Choose right, and your harvest’s set to crush it come summer.

Zones 1‑3

Up in Zones 1-3, winter is brutal, and growing seasons are short. Garlic needs that cold to form bulbs, so you absolutely need to plant before the ground turns to ice. A solid garlic planting schedule relies on heavy mulch to save your cloves from freezing solid.

Planting Time: Late September to early October

Late September hits right for planting garlic in these zones. Early October is fine too, but don’t wait longer. Cloves need time to root before snow locks the soil.

This is because garlic craves a cold spell, called vernalization, to grow right. These zones deliver plenty of chill, but you must plant early to let roots settle before winter’s deep freeze. Miss it, and bulbs come out small or won’t form.

Choose hardy, hardneck garlic varieties that suit cold zones and thrive in harsh winters. Music Garlic Bulbs, a type of porcelain garlic, are tough as nails.

If possible, plant your garlic in raised beds – they have better drainage and warm soil faster. A VegTrug Raised Garden from Amazon keeps roots happy. Mulch heavily to protect cloves, insulating against freezes. GardenStraw Mulch from Amazon works great.

Zones 4-6

Zones 4-6 get chilly but not Arctic-level. You’ve got a decent window for planting garlic, setting roots before winter naps kick in. The best time to plant garlic here is a perfect balance between cold and root growth for the strongest garlic planting schedule.

Planting Time: Mid-September to late October

Mid-September starts the garlic planting schedule right. Push to late October if needed, but earlier is better for solid roots. Don’t let frost catch you off guard.

Soil prep is key for success, and good soil preparation starts with loose dirt. Break up clumps, add compost, and keep it drained. Poor soil tanks your crop, but good prep locks in strong roots.

Garlic varieties and cold needs shape your garlic planting schedule. Hardneck or softneck picks depend on your zone’s winter chill. Some need a cold snap to bulb up, others don’t. Choose right, and your harvest’s set to crush it come summer.

German White Garlic, a hardneck variety, grows strong. Inchelium Red Garlic, a softneck, stores long.

Zones 7-9

Zones 7-9 have mild winters, so the garlic planting schedule has to shift a little to avoid issues. The cold will be weaker here, which can interfere with hardneck varieties.

Planting Time: Late October to November

Late October is the prime time for planting garlic here. November works too, but don’t push it. You want cloves in before it’s too warm. Mild winters mean less chill for vernalization, so timing is tricky. Softneck garlic often beats hardneck in these zones. Plant these later in the year to avoid messing up your harvest.

Plant later in fall to avoid premature sprouting. Grow a softneck variety, like California Early Garlic, which thrives in warm climates.

These zones can still experience occasional cold snaps – protect your garlic with pine bark mulch, or plant them in a cold frame like this from Amazon to insulate the soil.

Zones 10-11

Zones 10-11 barely ever get cold. This tends to make garlic a little trickier. The garlic planting schedule needs just a little extra care to mimic chill for a solid crop.

Planting Time: Late fall to early winter

No real winter means vernalization is very tough. Garlic needs cold to form bulbs, so you need to plant during the least hot time, or give them a synthetic vernalization.

November to January is your window for planting garlic. Pick the coolest months to give cloves a fighting chance. Too warm, and they won’t bulb right.

Plant softneck varieties suited to warmth – Silver Rose Garlic grows well in hot climates. You can also chill your garlic bulbs for a synthetic vernalization. An Igloo Compact Refrigerator from Amazon is a compact fridge that’s perfect for chilling bulbs and other seeds.

Garlic is used in practically every cuisine on the planet and as such is often a crop of choice for the gardener. But what about growing garlic indoors? Can you grow garlic indoors? While it may seem counter intuitive, garlic as well as many other crops can easily be grown inside, provided of course that you have an adequate light and heat source. Read on to learn how to plant garlic indoors.

Is it Possible to Grow Garlic Indoors?

You may have seen or even planted flower bulbs in containers. This is a common approach to planting bulbs other than in the ground, and bulbs flourish in containers.

Garlic is the edible bulb from a plant in the Lily family. Therefore it stands to reason that garlic bulbs would thrive in containers, and they do, provided you follow a few simple rules.

About Growing Garlic Indoors

Garlic (Allium sativum) is rarely grown inside, but when it is it’s more likely to be grown for the delicious greens or scapes rather than the bulb. This is because garlic bulbs are slow growing; taking up to 6 months or more to come to fruition. Also, garlic cloves require a chilling period of several weeks prior to planting in order for the cloves to develop into bulbs. But it is not impossible to grow garlic indoors.

Garlic does not do well under artificial lighting so you will need a good source of alternative light.

And it’s important to note that garlic (all members of the Allium family actually) is toxic to cats and dogs, so those with pets might want to think twice. The toxicity is more acute in the bulbs but even the leaves have some toxicity.

Notes on Growing Garlic Indoors

There are a number of reasons for growing garlic indoors. Perhaps you have no room outside for the plants, or you simply want to experiment. Regardless, garlic can thrive in containers given the correct amount of light and planting depth.

Before you consider growing garlic indoors, be sure you have a sunny location that gets at least 6 hours of sunlight; a south or west exposure window is best. Temperatures should be between 60-80 F (16-27 C).

If you are growing garlic for just the shoots, cloves can be spaced fairly close together. If you are aiming to grow garlic bulbs you will need to chill the bulbs first. Chill bulbs in a refrigerator or similar environment for several weeks prior to planting. This is especially crucial for hardneck garlic, and less so for softneck varieties which are often preferred over hardneck for indoor growing.

How to Grow Garlic Indoors

At the end of the chilling period, bulbs can be divided into cloves to plant. If you only wish to grow the bulb for greens, skip the chilling period. Cloves are planted at the end of the outdoor gardening season for your region.

Choose containers that are at least 8 inches (20 cm.) across and deep with a drainage hole. Fill the container with a potting soil that includes compost. Plant each clove an inch (2.5 cm) deep, spaced 4-6 inches (10-15 cm.) apart. Keep the cloves far enough away from the edge of the container to allow for growth.

Care of Indoor Garlic

Keep the cloves moist, not wet. The rule of thumb is to provide an inch (2.5cm.) of water per week, but the best idea is to use your fingers. When the potting mix feels dry to touch, give the garlic a drink.

If you are growing garlic for bulbs, feed the plant two times per month with a water soluble fertilizer diluted at half strength. Garlic grown for greens does not need supplemental feeding.

Garlic grown for greens can be harvested when the shoots are only a couple of inches (5 cm.) tall. Leave an inch (2.5 cm.) of shoot on the plant so it can continue to grow.

Garlic grown for mature bulbs will take some patience. After about 6 months, when the shoots begin to brown, stop watering. After a couple of weeks the shoots will have dried completely and the bulbs can be harvested. Store the harvested bulbs in a cool, dry location.

What’s the difference between softneck and hardneck garlic? Three decades ago, author and garlic farmer Ron L. Engeland proposed garlic be divided into these two groups according to whether or not the plants readily bolted. But when comparing these two subspecies, we find the hardneck-softneck garlic difference goes way beyond flowering. 

The Hardneck-Softneck Garlic Difference

When visually comparing softneck vs. hardneck garlic, it's easy to distinguish between the two. Hardneck garlic (Allium sativum subsp. ophioscorodon) will have a woody stem protruding up through the center of the circle of cloves. Even if this stem is trimmed at the top of the garlic head, a portion remains inside.

Referred to as a scape, this flowering stem is the result of the garlic plant bolting during the growing season. If you were to observe hardneck garlic growing in the garden, the scape would produce an umbel-type flower cluster. After flowering, teardrop-shaped bulbs would form. These can be planted to form new garlic plants.

Softneck garlic (Allium sativum subsp. sativum) rarely bolts, but it's still easy to distinguish whether you have softneck or hardneck garlic when it does. If softneck garlic blooms, a shorter pseudostem emerges and a small number of bulbs are produced. Softneck garlic is the most common type found in grocery stores. 

Comparing Softneck vs. Hardneck Garlic 

In addition to the existence of a scape, there are other characteristics which make it possible to differentiate betweeen softneck and hardneck garlic heads:

• Garlic braids – If you purchase a braid of garlic, it's most likely softneck. The woody scapes make braiding hardneck garlic more difficult, if not impossible.
• Number and size of cloves – Hardneck garlic produces a single layer of large, oval to triangular-shaped cloves, usually numbering between 4 to 12 per head. Softneck heads are usually bigger and average 8 to 20 cloves, many of which have an irregular shape.
• Ease of peeling – The skin easily slips off most varieties of hardneck garlic. The tight, thin skin and irregular shape of softneck cloves make peeling more difficult. This also affects shelf life, with softneck varieties lasting much longer in storage.
• Climate – Hardneck garlic is hardier in cold climates, while softneck varieties thrive better in areas with warm winters.

To avoid confusion with either softneck or hardneck garlic varieties, bulbs or heads labeled as Elephant garlic are actually members of the leek family. They have the familiar clove-like heads and same pungent flavor as softneck and hardneck garlic.

Culinary Differences Between Softneck and Hardneck Garlic

Garlic connoisseurs will tell you there's a difference in the flavor of softneck vs. hardneck garlic. Softneck cloves are less pungent. They are also more likely to be chosen for seasoning in processed foods and in the commercial production of garlic powder.

The complex flavor of hardneck cloves is often compared to wild garlic. In addition to varietal differences, regional microclimates and growing conditions can also influence the subtle flavor profiles found in hardneck garlic cloves.

If you are interested in growing your own softneck or hardneck garlic, here are a few popular varieties for you to explore:

Softneck varieties

• Early Italian
• Inchelium Red
• Silver White
• Walla Walla Early

Hardneck varieties

• Amish Recambole
• California Early
• Chesnok Red
• Northern White
• Romanian Red

What is Lorz Italian garlic? This large, flavorful heirloom garlic is appreciated for its bold, spicy flavor. It is delicious when roasted or added to pasta, soups, mashed potatoes, and other hot dishes. Lorz Italian garlic has great storability and, under the right conditions, can maintain quality for six to nine months.

Lorz Italian garlic plants are easy to grow in nearly every climate, including regions with very cold winters. It also tolerates hot summers better than most types of garlic. The plant is so prolific that a single pound (0.5 kg.) of cloves may produce a harvest of up to 10 pounds (4.5 kg.) of delicious garlic at harvest time. Read on for more Lorz garlic growing info.

How to Grow Lorz Italian Garlic Plants

Cultivating Lorz garlic is easy. Plant Lorz Italian garlic in the fall, a few weeks before the ground freezes in your climate.

Dig a generous amount of compost, chopped leaves, or another organic material into the soil before planting. Press the cloves 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm.) into the soil, with the pointed ends up. Allow 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm.) between each clove.

Cover the area with dry grass clippings, straw, or another organic mulch to protect the garlic from winter freeze-thaw cycles. Remove the mulch when you see green shoots in spring, but leave a thin layer if you expect frosty weather.

Fertilize Lorz Italian garlic plants when you see strong growth in early spring, using fish emulsion or some other organic fertilizer. Repeat in about a month.

Water the garlic beginning in spring, when the top inch (2.5 cm.) of soil is dry. Withhold water when the cloves are developing, usually around mid-summer.

Pull weeds while they’re small and don’t allow them to take over the garden. Weeds draw moisture and nutrients from the garlic plants.

Harvest Lorz Italian garlic plants when they begin to look brown and droopy, usually beginning in early summer.

What is porcelain garlic and how do you grow it? Porcelain garlic is a type of large, attractive hardneck garlic. The plump cloves, usually four to seven to a bulb, are easy to peel, delicious to eat, and store longer than most types of garlic. Let’s learn how to grow porcelain garlic.

How to Grow Porcelain Garlic

Growing porcelain garlic is basically the same as growing any type of garlic. Porcelain garlic performs well in most climates, with the exception of extremely warm regions such as southern California, Florida, and Texas. It is well suited for cold weather and tends to be larger when grown in chilly northern climates.

Plant porcelain garlic in well-drained soil sometime in the fall (between September and November) when the soil is cool. Before planting, dig in a generous amount of compost or well-rotted manure.

If you want fat, plump garlic, plant the fattest, plumpest porcelain garlic bulbs you can find. Cover the area with 3 to 4 inches (5 to 7.5 cm.) of mulch after the ground freezes. Straw makes a great mulch for porcelain garlic.

As part of your porcelain garlic care, provide about an inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week when bulbs are forming in late spring and early summer. You may not need to irrigate if your climate is rainy in spring. Pull weeds as they appear since these rob nutrients from the bulbs.

Harvest porcelain garlic when the lower leaves start to turn brown.

Porcelain Garlic Varieties

• German Extra Hardy tends to be disease resistant and is harvested in early to midsummer. This sturdy garlic has a robust, hot flavor.
• Leningrad matures later than most porcelain garlic varieties. The large bulbs generally have four to six cloves. 
• Georgia Fire consists of pale, brown cloves streaked with purple. This variety is native to the Republic of Georgia.
• Armenian is a flavorful, attractive type of porcelain garlic. The white wrappers are marked with a tint of red.
• Romanian Red is a beautiful garlic with purple-striped wrappers and four to eight cloves per bulb. The flavor is hot and pungent.
• Georgian Crystal is one of the mildest porcelain garlic varieties, with a flavor that is robust but mellow.
• Polish Jenn is harvested in early to midsummer. Native to Poland, Polish Jenn is a tall, impressive plant. The flavor of the cloves is rich, deep, and mellow. 
• Majestic is appreciated for its large bulbs, each with four to seven cloves. The flavor is strong and delicious. 
• Floha is a versatile garlic native to Germany. It isn’t overly hot and works well for baking. 
• Dan’s Russian is a moderately hot type of porcelain garlic.
• Iowa German White is a vigorous variety that produces large bulbs, each with up to seven bulbs. 
• Music displays more color than most porcelain garlic varieties. The flavor is rich and strong but not overly hot; however, it is sweeter when baked.
• Rosewood consists of big, beautiful bulbs of soft, pastel colors.
• Zemo has a strong but pleasant taste. It generally produces four to five cloves per bulb.

What is Purple Stripe garlic? Purple Stripe garlic is an attractive type of hardneck garlic with vivid, purple stripes or blotches on the wrappers and skins. Depending on the temperature, the shade of purple may be vivid or pale. Most Purple Stripe varieties produce 8 to 12 crescent-shaped cloves per bulb.

Purple Stripe garlic is suitable for growing in nearly every climate, including those with very cold winters. However, it may struggle in hot, humid climates. Read on to learn about growing Purple Stripe garlic.

Growing Garlic with Purple Stripes

Plant garlic in the fall, about four to six weeks before the ground freezes in your area. Divide a large Purple Stripe garlic bulb into cloves. Save the plumpest bulbs for planting.

Dig 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm.) of compost, well-rotted manure, or another organic material into the soil before planting. Plant the cloves 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm.) deep, with the pointy ends up. Allow 5 or 6 inches (12.5-15 cm.) between each clove.

Cover the area with mulch, such as straw or chopped leaves, which will protect the garlic from repeated freezing and thawing during the winter. Remove most of the mulch when you see green shoots in spring, but leave a thin layer if the weather is still chilly.

Fertilize the garlic when you see strong growth in early spring, and again about a month later.

Water the garlic when the top inch (2.5 cm.) of soil is dry. Stop watering when cloves are developing, usually around mid-June in most climates.

Weed regularly; weeds draw moisture and nutrients from the bulbs.

Harvest the garlic in summer when most of the leaves begin to look brown and droopy.

Purple Stripe Garlic Varieties

• Belarus: Deep, reddish-purple garlic.
• Persian Star: White wrappers with purple streaks and a full, mellow, mildly spicy flavor.
• Metechi: A very hot, heirloom variety. The outer covering is white, getting progressively deeper purple as the wrapper is removed. Matures later and stores well.
• Celeste: A tall, willowy plant that produces garlic with a warm, rich flavor. Inner bulb wrappers are nearly solid purple.
• Siberian: A rich, mild variety.
• Russian Giant Marble: Large cloves with a mild flavor.
• Purple Glazer: A tall plant with deep green leaves showing a tinge of blue in sunlight. Wrappers are solid white inside but nearly purple inside. 
• Chesnok Red: Large, attractive garlic consisting of white cloves with reddish-purple stripes. Retains its full flavor when cooked.
• Bogatyr: Huge, very hot garlic with a long storage life. The outer skin is white, turning brownish-purple closer to the cloves.

If your garlic has been sitting around too long and is now sporting a green shoot, you may wonder if you can use it to grow a new one. Plenty of gardeners try planting store-bought garlic straight from the kitchen – and sometimes it works beautifully. Other times, the cloves just sit there. The trick is knowing when grocery bulbs are likely to sprout and when they won’t.

Commercial garlic is often selected for flavor and shelf life, not for planting. Some bulbs at the grocery store are imported or treated so they won’t sprout on the shelf; others are simply older or have been kept very cold to stay fresh. Even so, many people have success with growing local or organic garlic from the produce aisle. If you’re curious, it’s a low‑cost experiment.

With the right checks and timing, growing store‑bought garlic can still be rewarding. Understanding how to propagate garlic – whether from cloves, bulbils, or true seed – helps set expectations, and brushing up on the basics of how to grow garlic will carry you from planting to harvest.

Will Store‑Bought Garlic Grow?

The short answer is yes – store garlic can grow – but not every bulb will. There are three common reasons for failure:

1. Sprout inhibitors or irradiation. Some imported bulbs are treated so they don’t sprout in storage. Those cloves may never root outdoors.
2. Cold storage and overdrying. Grocery bulbs are often kept very cold and very dry to extend shelf life, which can stall or weaken sprouting.
3. Age and handling. Old, soft, or moldy cloves are unlikely to perform.

You’ll boost your odds by choosing firm, heavy bulbs, ideally local or organic. This will also minimize the risk of introducing a disease to your garden, such as white rot, fusarium basal rot, or other soil-borne infections that can linger for years once established.

Bear in mind that different types of garlic have different temperature requirements. Most store bulbs are softneck garlic, which suits mild climates and performs best in USDA zones 7 to 10. In colder climates (zones 3 to 6), hardneck types are usually the safer bet – but unless you're buying a less common variety, you’ll need to buy them as seed garlic rather than from the store.

Store‑Bought vs Seed Garlic: What’s the Difference?

Growing garlic from a store bulb isn’t the same as planting certified seed garlic. Store bulbs are cheap and easy to find, but they’re unpredictable – some sprout readily, while others never get started. Seed garlic is grown specifically for planting: it’s certified disease‑free, carefully stored, and sold in both hardneck and softneck varieties. You’ll pay more, but plants are more reliable and bulbs are often bigger and healthier.

That said, if you’re experimenting for fun or short on time, a supermarket bulb can be a great way to start. Many gardeners try one small patch from the grocery store alongside a patch grown from seed garlic, then compare the results at harvest.

How to Grow Garlic from the Grocery Store

1. Time it to your climate. In most regions, fall planting is best – a few weeks before the ground freezes. In very mild areas, late winter planting can work too.
2. Choose bulbs wisely. Pick firm, plump heads with tight skins. Local or organic bulbs are best. Avoid cloves that feel hollow or smell off.
3. Prep and plant. Break the head into individual cloves just before planting so the basal plate stays intact. Plant each clove 2 inches (5 cm) deep and 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) apart, pointy end up.
4. Water well and mulch. If your area is prone to freezing, cover the garlic bed up with some mulch to protect it, but remember to remove it as temperatures warm. Keep garlic consistently watered and weeded.
5. Fertilize. Garlic is a heavy feeder, so it needs a good dose of nutrients at the time of planting. Fertilizing garlic should continue through spring and cease in the build-up to harvest. This Gardenwise 10-10-10 plant fertilizer, available from Amazon, is a slow-release formula that's ideal for planting time.
6. Be patient. Garlic takes up to seven months to reach maturity. When the tips of the leaves start to brown, stop watering and allow the stalks to dry. Wait about two weeks, and then carefully lift the garlic from the dirt. When harvesting garlic, using a broad fork, like this Vevor design on Amazon, makes the job easier.

One tip you might try is to mark a few grocery‑clove rows and a few seed‑garlic rows so you can compare vigor, scapes, and bulb size at harvest.

Growing Garlic Greens Indoors

If your goal is a quick win, try growing garlic greens on a windowsill. Pop sprouted cloves into a shallow pot and keep them on a bright sill; harvest the greens at 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm).

Learning how to grow garlic indoors primarily involves providing bright light and maintaining steady moisture. Providing a sunny window and moderate watering are usually enough, but in areas with lower light, it's best to use a full-spectrum plant light, like the GooingTop LED Grow Light, available on Amazon.

Common Problems When Using Store Garlic

• Nothing sprouted: The bulb was likely treated or irradiated, or the cloves were too old and dry. Try again with local/organic bulbs or switch to seed garlic.
• Soft, smelly cloves: That’s due to age or poor storage. Start again with fresh, firm heads.
• Yellowing leaves: Nutrient stress or early disease can cause paling; watch for garlic leaves turning yellow and work through common garlic problems such as overwatering or poor nutrition.
• Don’t forget that shallow planting and inconsistent watering can also stunt bulbs. Keep soil evenly moist and mulch to buffer spring temperature swings.

Is it Worth Growing Grocery Store Garlic?

Planting store‑bought garlic can be hit or miss, but as long as you choose healthy cloves, it’s a fun, low‑risk test. You’ll learn what works in your soil and climate without spending much. Once you’ve had some success, upgrade to seed garlic for larger, more reliable bulbs and the chance to try new flavors. And if you’re growing hardneck types, keep an eye out for garlic scapes in late spring – a tasty bonus crop and a good sign your plants are on track.

More than likely the garlic you purchase from the supermarket is California Late white garlic. What is California Late garlic? It is the most commonly used garlic in the United States, as it is an excellent general use garlic that stores quite well. The following article contains information on growing California Late garlic plants.

What is California Late White Garlic?

California Late garlic is a silverskin or softneck type of garlic that is later maturing than California Early garlic with a hotter, classic garlic flavor. A prolific grower, California Late garlic tolerates hot spring temperatures and has an excellent shelf life of about 8 to 12 months.

It is harvested in the early summer and produces large bulbs with 12 to 16 nice sized cloves that are perfect for roasted garlic or any other use. Plus, California Late garlic plants make beautiful garlic braids.

Growing California Late White Garlic

This heirloom garlic can be grown in USDA zones 3 through 9. Like all garlic varieties, patience is a virtue, as the bulbs take some time to develop-- about 150 to 250 days from planting in the case of California Late garlic plants. This garlic can be sown from October through January where temperatures are mild in an area with at least six hours per day of sun and soil temps of at least 45 degrees F. (7 C.).

For the largest bulbs, plant the cloves in fertile soil with plenty of organic matter. Break the bulbs into individual cloves and direct sow in rows that are 18 inches (46 cm.) apart, with plants spaced 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm.) and about an inch (2.5 cm.) deep into the soil.

Keep the beds moderately moist and fertilize in the spring with an organic fertilizer. Once the tops begin to brown, quit watering the plants for a couple of weeks. When the entire tops have dried and browned, gently lift the garlic bulbs from the soil.

Depending upon where you live, softneck garlic may be the optimal variety for you to grow. Chamiskuri garlic plants are an excellent example of this warm climate bulb. What is Chamiskuri garlic? It is an early summer producer which has a long storage life. Gardeners in areas with mild winters should try growing Chamiskuri garlic so they can enjoy the mild flavor and delicious aroma of this variety.

What is a Chamiskuri Garlic?

Garlic lovers have many different varieties from which to choose. A quick glance at Chamiskuri garlic info indicates it was collected in 1983 and is classed as an “artichoke” variety. It produces shoots earlier than many other softneck cultivars and has a nice mild flavor. This is an easy variety to grow provided you have the right soil, site, and planting time.

Artichoke varieties of garlic often develop purplish streaks on the bulb skins. Chamiskuri has creamy white papers on the cloves, which are small and bunched closely. This variety does not produce a scape and, therefore, no hard stem at the center of the bulb. It produces in mid-season and can be easily braided for curing and storage.

The garlic can store for many months in a cool, dry location once cured. The flavor is pungent but not sharp, with a milder garlic flavor than hardneck varieties. Since it stores for a long time, many gardeners also grow the shorter lived hardneck varieties, so they have garlic year-round.

Growing Chamiskuri Garlic

All garlic plants need well-draining soil. Plant from bulbs for earlier yields or use seed (which can take several years until harvest). Plant seed in early fall and bulbs in spring.

Plants prefer full sun but can tolerate light shade. Incorporate well-rotted compost to the garden bed. In areas prone to late freezes or boggy soil, install bulbs in raised beds to prevent rotting.

Mulch around the plants to keep weeds at bay and conserve moisture. Keep soil moderately moist but never soggy. Chamiskuri garlic plants will get 12 to 18 inches (31-46 cm.) tall and should be spaced 6 to 9 inches (15-23 cm.) apart.

Caring for Chamiskuri Garlic

Like most garlic varieties, Chamiskuri needs little special care. It is resistant to deer and rabbits and few insect pests bother it. Occasionally cutworms will eat small sprouts.

Side dress new plants with bone meal or chicken manure. Feed plants again as bulbs begin to swell, usually May to June.

Keep weeds out of the bed, as garlic does not do well with competing vegetation.

Check bulbs in late June by digging around the plant. If they are the size you require, gently dig them out. Brush off the soil and either braid several together or hang them individually to dry. Remove tops and roots and store in a cool, dry location.

If you’ve stuck with your favorite garlic for years, you might not be familiar with Chesnok Red garlic bulbs. What is Chesnek Red garlic? It wins acclaim as one of the best tasting baking garlic available. Growing Chesnok Red garlic is not difficult and not very different than other type of garlic. For information on how to grow Chesnok Red garlic, read on.

What is Chesnok Red Garlic?

Those growing Chesnok Red garlic rave about it. It is an exceptional garlic from the Republic of Georgia in the former USSR. Chesnek red garlic bulbs store well and retain their shape and flavor when cooked. The bulb is a very lovely shade of red that presents well.

Some gardeners term Chesnok Red garlic bulbs the best all-round garlic available. Each large bulb is wrapped in a purple-striped, papery covering and contains some ten cloves. The cloves are extremely easy to peel.

This is true medium hardneck garlic that harvests in midsummer and stores well through midwinter. It is extremely sweet and delicious when it is roasted. 

How to Grow Chesnek Red Garlic

If you are wondering how to grow Chesnek Red garlic, you’ll be pleased to hear that it is fairly easy to grow. Chesnek Red grows upright, multiplies quickly, and produces large bulbs from medium cloves.

Plant the Chesnek Red garlic bulbs in full sun in loose, well-drained soil. Position them 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) apart in rows 12 inches (31 cm.) apart. Set the bulbs 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) deep, flat side down.

Give the plants plenty of elbow room since they rise to between 36 and 48 inches (around 1 m.) high. It is important to keep weeds down as the Chesnek Red garlic bulbs are growing. That’s because the bulbs do not thrive with competition.

Chesnek Red Garlic Care

As for Chesnek Red garlic care, this garlic doesn’t require much assistance. Keep the soil moist and fertilize with nitrogen occasionally.

Don’t be in a hurry either. Chesnek garlic can take up to 210 days to mature. It is ready to harvest when the leaves brown and fall over. Dig deep so as to avoid breaking the garlic. That way it will store longer.

Whenever I think about garlic, my thoughts instantly turn to using it to ward off vampires. It is unfortunate that this has always been my biggest takeaway about garlic, considering the enormous role that it has played in spiritual, medicinal and culinary persuasions throughout the course of history.

Garlic is one of the world's oldest horticultural crops and there are over 600 cultivated sub-varieties of garlic in the world. In the United States alone, there are 24,000 acres of garlic planted annually which produce 400 million pounds of garlic. As you can see from these statistics, garlic is a very significant crop and the importance of garlic in culture throughout the ages has never been understated. 

Origins of Garlic

In garlic plant history, the garlic crescent alludes to more than just flavorful rolls. The Garlic Crescent, a region that spans across Asia and west to the Mediterranean, is where the origins of garlic began, courtesy of nomadic hunter-gathers who transported it and dispersed it throughout the region five thousand or more years ago.

Important trading centers were located near the Garlic Crescent, which enabled garlic to spread across Eurasia. Given that garlic can grow almost anywhere, it was planted everywhere it was traded, thereby securing garlic's foothold across Eurasia and in history.

Garlic Plant History Highlights

Archaeological evidence suggests that garlic was worshiped by the ancient Egyptians. Paintings of garlic were discovered in Egyptian tombs and clay models of garlic bulbs, as well as preserved garlic, were unearthed in Tutankhamen's Tomb.

The pyramids, one of the 7 wonders of the world, are another footnote in garlic plant history, as slaves building the pyramids were apparently fed garlic to increase their strength and stamina. The ancient Greeks and Romans also recognized garlic as a performance enhancer and both civilizations made it part of the military diet. The early Greek Olympians even consumed garlic before they competed.

From ancient to modern times, garlic seems to have a solid reputation as being good for you by expelling bad entities and bad health. Earlier on I alluded to garlic being used to keep vampires at bay, but how did this become the stuff of legend and folklore in the first place? Some historians suggest that this possibly originated with the rabies disease.

Vampire epidemics seemed to come on the wave of a rabies outbreak because humans afflicted with rabies had a tendency to bite other people. Rabies is transmitted by saliva, so naturally this bred more "vampires." It was noted that these "vampires" seemed to have a hypersensitivity to pungent smells, such as those from the stinking rose, or garlic. Over the course of time, garlic was also used as an umbrella insurance policy against werewolves and evil spirits in general.

Modern day medicine reveres garlic for its health benefits but this notion isn't new by any means. Throughout ancient and modern times, garlic was prescribed and utilized to prevent and treat such a wide variety of ailments, infections and diseases (and even bubonic plague) to the point that you would think the catch-all phrase "take two and call me in the morning" was alluding to garlic cloves! The famed Greek physician Hippocrates was even an advocate for garlic, recommending it for pulmonary ailments, abdominal growths, and treating sores, just to name a few.

It is interesting to note that Russia played a role in growing the North American supply of garlic. A few varieties of garlic were introduced to the United States during the colonial period; however, it wasn't until 1989 that we were truly able to tap into the bounty of the most prized garlic varieties in existence in the Caucasus Mountains in the former Soviet Union. Up until the Soviet Union dissolved, this area was off-limits, as it was home to Russia's missile bases and their spaceport.

After the collapse of the Soviet Union, the USDA was allowed entry, under the surveillance of a Russian military escort, to procure garlic at night from the numerous villages along the Silk Road. Upon returning to the United States, the USDA contracted with several local growers to grow the new varieties of garlic. The growers got to split the bounty with the USDA. These new varieties were replanted, traded with other growers, and the rest you can say is history.

Garlic is one of those crops for which it's hard to wait. That is why Early Italian Purple garlic is a good selection. What is Italian Purple garlic? It is a variety that is ready weeks before most other softneck cultivars. Additionally, the bulbs have a long storage life and provide their unique flavor well into winter. Learn how to grow Italian Purple garlic and enjoy the beautiful color and sublime flavor.

What is Italian Purple Garlic?

A quick glance at Italian Purple garlic info and we find it is a vigorous variety with a skin decorated with pastel purple vertical blotches. It is famously associated with the Gilroy, CA annual garlic festival. The bulbs are quick maturing and have that attractive purple hue.

Early Italian Purple garlic will mature 5 to 10 days earlier than most other garlic varieties. This softneck is excellent for mild climates. The bulbs are large with 7 to 9 creamy cloves that are wrapped in the striped purple skins.

It is said to be a fairly mild garlic, with flavor and pungency middle of the scale but with rich tones. This flavor, combined with the color and long storage life, has made Italian Purple a favorite garlic for gardeners. It translates well when used either fresh or in cooking.

How to Grow Italian Purple Garlic

Softneck garlic is easy to grow with a few tips. This variety performs well in United States Department of Agriculture zones 3 to 8. Garlic needs well-draining soil in full sun for best production. Plant cloves in fall or in early spring as soon as soil can be worked. Incorporate plenty of organic matter and loosen soil deeply.

Plant bulbs 2 inches (5 cm.) deep and 6 inches (15 cm.) apart. Place bulbs with the pointy side up and back fill, gently pressing soil around each. Water in well. As the shoots form, mound up soil around them. Keep garlic moderately moist. Use organic mulch around them to conserve moisture and prevent weeds.

Harvesting and Storing Early Italian Purple Garlic

When lower leaves bend or dry out, the garlic is ready to harvest. Let soil dry out once this is observed. When more than half the leaves are dried, dig around plants and pull out the bulbs.

Trim roots and braid leaves together or remove them. Brush off the soil and dry bulbs for 2 to 3 weeks. Once the outer skin turns papery, bulbs can be stored in a cool are with good air flow. The bulbs keep well for up to 10 months when stored in the refrigerator or hanging in a cool, dark location.

Check them frequently and note any presence of mold. If you see any, remove the outer layers of the garlic and use it immediately.

The Polish hardneck variety is a type of porcelain garlic that is large, beautiful, and well formed. It is an heirloom variety that may have originated in Poland. It was brought to the United States by Rick Bangert, an Idaho garlic grower. If you are considering planting this variety of garlic, we’ll give you information about the these hardneck garlic bulbs and tips on growing Polish hardneck garlic.

What is Polish Hardneck Garlic?

If you are familiar with Northern White garlic, you know how large and lovely the bulbs are. Polish hardneck garlic bulbs are just as ample and attractive.

The Polish hardneck variety of garlic has a rich, musky flavor with a deep heat that has staying power. In short, Polish hardneck garlic bulbs are strong, long-storing garlic plants with heat. They harvest in summer and stay fresh until the following spring.

Growing Polish Hardneck Garlic

If you decide to start growing Polish hardneck garlic, plant it in the fall. Get it into the ground some 30 days before the first frost. Like other types of garlic, the Polish hardneck is best mulched with straw or alfalfa hay.

This garlic variety has to be exposed to cold for a couple of weeks in order to produce bulbs. Before planting the Polish hardneck variety, blend some potash and phosphate into the soil, then put the cloves about 2 inches (5 cm.) deep and twice that distance apart. Put them 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm.) apart in rows that are at least a foot (31 cm.) apart.

Polish Hardneck Uses

Once most of the stalk browns or yellows, you can start to harvest your crop. Dig out the bulbs and stalks from the soil, then cure them in a shaded, dry area with excellent air circulation.

After about a month, the bulbs can be removed and used in cooking. You’ll usually find four to six large cloves per bulb.

Remember, this is a powerful, complex garlic. It is said that Polish hardneck garlic bulbs don’t knock before entering. Polish hardneck uses should include any dish that needs a deep, rich, subtle heat.

Garlic lovers who’ve spent a few months without fresh garlic cloves are prime candidates for growing Early Red Italian, which is ready for harvest before many other types. What is Early Red Italian garlic, you may ask? It is a mild, artichoke garlic with a minor bite. Early Red Italian garlic info calls it “an excellent garlic ready for harvest weeks before some other varieties” and says “it is a prolific grower” with large, colorful bulbs.

Growing Early Red Italian Garlic

Native to southern Italy, heads are large and, as mentioned, the Early Red Italian garlic plant is one of the earliest types ready for a late spring harvest. While this garlic variety will grow in less than ideal conditions, bulbs and taste are improved by growing in a sunny spot in loose, composted soil.

Plant garlic cloves with the roots downward and cover with a couple inches (5 cm.) of rich topsoil. Space the cloves approximately 18 inches (46 cm.) apart. Plant into soil that is loose and well draining so the roots of Early Red Italian have plenty of room to develop and grow the large bulbs. Info says one pound of this garlic typically has 50 to 90 bulbs.

Water regularly when there is no natural moisture. Keep the weeds cleared from the garlic patch, as garlic does not like competition for nutrients. A layer of organic mulch assists with both holding moisture and keeping weeds down. Clip off any blooms that appear.

Planting times for garlic vary somewhat by location. Most plant in mid-autumn if there will be a winter freeze. More northern areas may wait to plant in early spring. Those without freezing winters often plant in winter and harvest in fall.

Purchase seed garlic from a reputable source, locally or online. Keep in mind, when you’re buying your first seed garlic that it will produce bulbs for eating and reseeding for years to come, so don’t be intimidated by the price. You haven’t truly tasted garlic until you eat that which you’ve grown.

Early Red Italian garlic stores well and lasts several months if properly stored. Use this garlic in sauces and pesto or for raw eating. You can store the entire plant or store bulbs in a dark, dry place where air circulates, in a mesh or paper bag.

What is German White garlic? According to German White garlic information, this is a large, strong-flavored hardneck type garlic. German White garlic is a Porcelain type with satin white bulbs. For information about how to grow German White garlic, read on.

German White Garlic Info

Many gardeners growing German White garlic declare it their favorite. Its claim to fame is the size of its cloves. The big bulbs have only four to six cloves, which makes them easier to peel.

Exactly what is German White garlic? It’s an extremely popular type of hardneck garlic with ivory bulbs. The clove wrappers, however, are pink. This garlic is known by several other names. These include German Extra-Hardy, Northern White and German Stiffneck.

These huge garlic bulbs have a rich, deep flavor with lasting heat. Are they spicy? They are, but not too much, just enough. This garlic softens and sweetens when it is cooked and is excellent in pesto, roasts and sauces.

If you are considering growing German White garlic, you’ll be happy to hear that it stores well for a hardneck. You can leave it in cold storage and it will stay good until March or April.

How to Grow German White Garlic

Growing German white garlic is not very difficult. For a 25-foot (7.6 m.) row, you’ll need a pound of garlic. Crack the bulbs into cloves and plant them 6 inches (15 cm.) apart, ideally in September or October.

Plant the garlic, pointed end up, in full sun in a sandy or loamy soil that offers excellent drainage. Each one should be about 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm.) deep, measuring from the top of the clove. Place mulch on top.

Water the garlic only when the soil is dry. Too much water means that the garlic will rot. Fertilize in the spring with a high nitrogen fertilizer, and keep weeds down.

When the garlic stalks start to form little stems called scapes, prune them off when they curl. This makes sure the energy goes into building large bulbs, rather than producing flowers. Good news, though – garlic scapes are edible too.

Garlic is utilized in so many types of cuisine it is a must have for the garden. The question is which type of garlic to grow? That depends upon your palate, the length of time you want to be able to store it, and what you want to use it for. Take Polish Red garlic bulbs, for instance. What is Polish Red garlic? Keep reading to learn about Polish Red artichoke garlic and how to grow it.

What is Polish Red Garlic?

There are two major types of garlic: softneck and hardneck. Softneck garlic matures earlier and produces more cloves than hardneck types of garlic. Artichoke garlic is a subtype of softneck garlic that is named for the overlapping layers of cloves. Polish Red garlic bulbs are an artichoke type of garlic.

Polish Red garlic plants are very hardy and prolific producers. They sport good sized bulbs containing 6-10 fat cloves that are tan in color with a purple/red tint. The outer skin has a tint of purple/red and is easy to peel from the cloves.

Polish Red garlic is an early harvesting garlic with a rich, mild garlic flavor and a long storage life. The parchment wrapped bulbs also make great braiding garlic.

How to Grow Polish Red Garlic

Softneck garlic is harvested early in the summer and grows best in climates with mild winters and hot summers, although it can be grown as low as zone 5.

Polish Red gold garlic should be planted in the fall, at the same time spring flowering bulbs would be planted. It may also be planted early in the spring, but harvest will be later than fall planted garlic.

Before planting the garlic, the bulb needs to be separated into cloves. Do this about 24 hours or less prior to planting; you don’t want the root nodules to dry out. Peel the outer layers of skin off and gently pull the cloves apart.

Garlic is easy to grow but prefers full sun and loose, loamy soil. Just like tulips and other spring bloomers, Polish Red garlic should be planted pointy end up. Place the cloves 3-4 inches (7.6 to 10 cm.) deep and about 6 inches (15 cm.) apart.

That’s it. Now the anxious wait begins for this pungent stinking rose.

Growing Italian Late garlic is a great way to enjoy a tasty variety of garlic while also extending your harvest. As compared to other garlic varieties, this one is ready later in the spring or summer so you can get more garlic for a longer period of time if you add it to other types in the garden. With some basic Italian Late information, you’ll find it easy to grow.

What is Italian Late Garlic?

Italian Late garlic is a softneck variety. This means it does not have the tough flower stalk of hardneck garlics that needs to be removed to encourage bulb development. Softnecks produce more cloves per bulb as well.

The flavor of Italian Late is robust but not overly hot compared to other varieties. The taste is rich and lingers on the palate. This garlic’s aroma is very pungent. Like other types of garlic, the flavor can vary by year depending on the growing conditions.

A desirable property of Italian Late garlic is that the bulbs store well. As a softneck type, you can braid the stems and hang bulbs to dry. Once dry, they will store most of the winter, up to six months.

How to Grow Italian Late Garlic

Italian Late garlic plants are not fussy. Compared to some similar types of garlic, these will grow in a range of climates and soil types. Plant the garlic in a sunny spot with fertile soil—mix in compost if necessary. Make sure the area drains well and avoid standing water.

Plant Italian Late outdoors about six to eight weeks before the ground freezes in the fall. In warmer climates, you can plant it as late as early spring. Water the garlic regularly in the spring and slow down as it gets closer to harvest time.

In most areas, the bulbs will be ready to harvest mid-summer. Look for dry, brown lower leaves with a few of the top leaves still green for a sign that the bulbs are ready.

You shouldn’t have too many problems or pests with your Italian Late garlic plants. The most likely issue is overwatering and standing water, which can cause roots to rot.

Garlic gives you the most flavor for your efforts in the garden of any vegetable. There are a lot of varieties to try, but for a pretty purple stripe garlic with a milder taste, try Persian Star. We’ll provide you with the basic Persian Star plant information needed to get you started with this tasty garlic.

What is Persian Star Garlic?

Persian Star purple garlic is a variety with a purple and white striped skin, making this garlic attractive not just for eating but also as decoration and in centerpieces. There are other purple stripe varieties, but this one has the most striking coloration.

With origins in the central Asian nation of Uzbekistan, Persian Star garlic is a hardneck variety. This means it will grow a scape, a flowering stem, which is edible. Hardnecks have cloves that form in a single ring in the bulb. They grow better in colder climates than softneck varieties, and they do not store as well. Keep your Persian Star bulbs for only four to six months.

Persian Star garlic flavor is less hot than other garlic varieties. Its distinctive garlic heat is milder and more delicate. This means you can eat them raw better than other varieties, but the cloves are also delicious and sweet when roasted.

How to Grow Persian Star Garlic

When growing Persian Star garlic, plant outside in mid- to late-fall in colder climates and as late as early spring in warmer climates. Make sure the soil is rich, amending with compost if necessary. Begin watering your garlic regularly when greens start shooting up in spring. You’ll want to decrease watering as you get closer to harvest time.

Because this is a hardneck variety, it’s important to cut off the scapes as they appear. When you see a long, green flower stalk with a white, bulb-like flower at the end, cut it to allow the plant to put more energy into developing the cloves and bulb. The scapes are edible and delicious. They have a subtle and sweet garlic flavor and can be eaten any way you would eat green onions, raw or cooked.

Depending on when you planted the Persian Star garlic, be ready to harvest bulbs any time between early and late summer. Look for the lower leaves of the plants to have dried out with a few green leaves at the top. You can check one plant to see if the bulb is ready before harvesting the rest.

Let your bulbs cure by drying in a cool place for a few weeks before you use them.

Garlic is a rewarding vegetable grow. It’s easy, it requires little hands-on care, and the reward is a ton of flavor in a small package. Chefs enjoy Inchelium Red garlic because of its robust flavor that works well in any type of dish that calls for garlic. It produces well too, so you’ll get an abundant harvest.

Inchelium Red Information

This variety of garlic was discovered, or re-discovered, growing on the Colville Indian Reservation, which is in Inchelium, Washington. The Inchelium Red has since won awards, including a 1990 Rodale Kitchens garlic taste test.

Garlic varieties can be divided into hardneck and softneck types. Inchelium Red is one of the latter, which means it does not have a flower stalk and it produces more cloves per bulb as compared to hardneck types.

Inchelium Red garlic plants produce bulbs that are about three inches (7.6 cm.) across and contain 15 cloves on average. The actual number of cloves can vary a lot, though, from 12 to 20 per bulb. Unlike other types of softneck garlic, this one does not have tiny cloves at the center of the bulb. All the cloves are large.

Inchelium Red Garlic Uses

Any culinary use for garlic is appropriate for Inchelium Red. This is a variety that has won taste tests, so turn to it any time you really want the garlic to shine, such as in garlic mashed potatoes. Roast entire bulbs to sweeten the flavor of the cloves. They will become sweet and soft enough to spread.

This type of garlic can also be decorative. The softneck varieties don’t have a stiff flower stalk. You can easily braid the softer, grassy stems to make an attractive chain of garlic for hanging as the bulbs dry.

How to Grow Inchelium Red Garlic

Growing Inchelium Red garlic isn’t difficult. It grows as an annual in a variety of soils but prefers a versatile soil type with a long of organic material. Avoid soil that is too wet or won’t drain well. Rot is one of the few problems you may encounter growing this garlic.

Start Inchelium Red outdoors, preferably in fall for a spring harvest. You can also plant in spring, but the fall harvest will be smaller. Garlic generally needs cooler temperatures to form bulbs.

Your garlic plants will need sunlight and only moderate water. Keep an eye out for pests, but generally these are low-maintenance plants.

Garlic is not only delicious, but it’s good for you. Some people find garlic a little too strong, however. For those whose taste buds prefer milder garlic, try growing Applegate garlic plants. What is Applegate garlic? Keep reading for Applegate garlic info and care.

What is Applegate Garlic?

Applegate garlic plants are of the softneck variety of garlic, specifically artichoke. They feature multiple layers of even sized cloves, about 12 to 18 per large bulb. Each clove is individually covered with a light yellow to white paper splashed with purple.

The cloves are off-white with a mild, creamy flavor perfect for use in recipes that require fresh garlic without giving that pungent, ‘knock your socks off’ finish of most other garlic varieties.

Applegate Garlic Care

As mentioned, Applegate garlic is an artichoke subtype of heirloom softneck garlic. That means that it is easy to grow and rarely bolts (sends up scapes). Like the leaves of an artichoke, it has layers of even sized cloves. Applegate matures early in the season and has a milder flavor than many other garlic types, which makes it a perfect choice for those who eat garlic for their health.

Applegate is an excellent type of garlic to grow in warmer regions. When growing Applegate garlic, select a site that is in full sun, in loamy soil with a pH of between 6.0 and 7.0.

Plant softneck garlic in the fall with the cloves pointed end up and about 3 to 4 (8-10 cm.) inches deep and 6 inches (15 cm.) apart.

Applegate garlic will be ready to harvest the following summer and will store into midwinter.

California Early garlic plants might be the most popular garlic in American gardens. This is a softneck garlic variety that you can plant and harvest early. Growing California Early garlic is a snap if you know the basics. Read on for information about this type of garlic, including tips on how and when to plant California Early.

What is California Early Garlic?

If you have never heard of California Early garlic plants, you are in for a treat. This is one garlic plant to remember. California Early garlic is an easy-to-grow softneck with great flavor. On top of that, it stores well after harvest, up to six months or more.

California Early garlic plants, sometimes termed “Cal-Early,” grow garlic heads with lovely ivory skins just flushed with a little purple. This dependable variety produces 10 to 16 cloves per head.

When to Plant California Early

With a name like “California Early,” this variety of garlic naturally has an early planting date. If you are wondering when to plant California Early, gardeners in mild climates can get started at any point from October through January (fall through winter).

If you are interested in growing California Early garlic for a spring crop, plant in the fall before the first frost. In colder climes, plant this heirloom garlic variety in the spring for a summer harvest.

Growing California Early Garlic

Growing California Early garlic is very easy. Before you begin, be sure you work the soil first, cultivating it down to 3 inches (8 cm.) and blending in organic compost. Select a full sun location.

Separate the garlic cloves and plant each, point up. Plant them 3 to 4 inches (8-10 cm.) deep and 4 inches (10 cm.) apart in rows that are 12 inches (31 cm.) apart.

From spring planting to harvest, count on 90 days. If you opt to plant Cal-Early in the fall, it will require some 240 days. In any event, harvest the garlic when the foliage begins to yellow. Leave the plants spread out to dry in the sun for a few hours.

The addition of garlic to the home garden is an obvious choice for many growers. Homegrown garlic offers year-round access to high quality and pungent cloves, which are a treasure in the kitchen. While there are many garlics grown specifically for fresh eating, the strong flavors of some other varieties make them more suited for use in garlic butters, as well as in seasoning of meats and pasta dishes. ‘Kettle River Giant,’ for example, is prized for its attributes in cooking.

Kettle River Garlic Info

Kettle River Giant garlic is an artichoke type garlic which is capable of producing large garlic bulbs. Though the size of the bulbs will vary depending upon growing conditions in the garden, it is not uncommon for it to reach sizes of 4 inches (10 cm.) across.

Developed in the Pacific Northwest, this giant Kettle River garlic also demonstrates an impressive tolerance for both cold and hot temperatures. This, in tandem with its size, makes it a viable option for many home gardeners, as well as those who grow for farmers’ market production.

Kettle River Giant garlic matures early in the summer season and demonstrates wonderful storage ability. With its strong and spicy garlic taste, it is easy to see why this heirloom is a favorite of many home gardeners.

Growing Kettle River Garlic

Growing garlic is extremely simple. In fact, this adaptable crop can be grown in a wide variety of conditions as long as the plants are able to receive ample sunlight, water, and nutrients. Beyond these growth requirements, garlic plants are an excellent choice for container plantings and in raised bed gardens with well-draining soils.

In general, garlic should be planted in the fall about three to four weeks before the first hard freeze occurs. This period of time allows the bulb to develop a root system as the weather transitions into winter. After the ground freezes, apply a layer of mulch. This insulating layer of mulch will help regulate temperature and soil moisture levels throughout the coldest part of the growing season.

After the growth has resumed in the spring, mature garlic will be ready to harvest when the tops of the plants begin to die back. Once picked, the garlic can be stored indoors in a dry location.

With careful planning, growers are able to produce a bountiful harvest of garlic cloves which will last all season long.

Beloved for its taste, as well as for its health benefits, it is easy to understand why garlic is such a popular choice among home gardeners. Not only is this easy-to-grow crop delicious, but garlic is an excellent way for growers on a budget to save money at the grocery store. While the taste of garlic grown at home may vary among different varieties, the plethora of options allows success for even the most persnickety of growers. Some cultivars may be very flavor-forward, but others, like Chet’s Italian red, offer a mellow and balanced taste.

What is Chet’s Italian Red?

Chet’s Italian red garlic was first found growing on an abandoned farm in Washington State. Chet Stevenson selected the garlic for growth in his own garden. Chet’s Italian red garlic plants are prized for their consistent subtle taste when grown in the right conditions, most commonly those experienced by growers in the Pacific Northwest portion of the United States.

Though Chet’s Italian red garlic uses are numerous, the mild winter temperatures in this region produces garlic of exceptional quality for fresh eating. In addition to fresh garlic, Chet’s Italian red is a popular choice in the kitchen.

Growing Chet’s Italian Red Garlic

Growing Chet’s Italian red garlic is similar to growing other garlic varieties. In fact, garlic will thrive in a wide variety of growing conditions, as long as a light, well-draining soil is provided. Garlic is an excellent choice for growers who are planting in small spaces and in containers.

Like other garlics, this variety should be planted in the fall, usually around three weeks before the first hard freeze occurs. This will ensure that the bulb has sufficient time to begin to form a root system before the ground starts to freeze in the winter. Since these plants will remain in the garden throughout the winter, it is important to make certain that the chosen garlic variety is hardy to your growing zone.

Garlic is most reliably purchased for planting from reputable seed sources. Purchasing garlic for planting from a garden center or online seed source is a good way to ensure that plants are disease free and have not been treated with any chemicals that may inhibit growth.

Beyond planting, the garlic will require little care and attention from the grower. Once the ground freezes in the winter, make certain to cover the planting with a layer of mulch. This will help the garlic maintain adequate moisture, as well as suppress any weeds that may sprout throughout this time.

Garlic will begin in mature early in the next summer growing season. As the tops of the plants begin to die back, the garlic will be ready to harvest.

Each year, many enthusiastic home chefs and vegetable gardeners plant garlic as a means of bringing homegrown and high quality ingredients into their kitchens. By planting their own garlic, growers are afforded access to unique and interesting varieties which may not be commonly found in supermarkets.

Growing garlic at home is not only cost effective, but also allows growers to choose varieties that best suit their own tastes and needs in the kitchen. Polish White garlic is one such variety known for its mild taste. Read on for some more Polish White garlic info.

What is Polish White Garlic?

Polish White garlic plants are known for their production of large, reliable bulbs. Yields of these garlic plants are especially beneficial to home gardeners which may be looking to maximize their growing space.

This softneck garlic is also ideal for home gardeners due to its storage qualities. Though harvested early in the summer, those growing Polish White garlic are able to store their crops well into the winter.

In addition to these attributes, many growers simply prefer the taste of this garlic when compared to other cultivars. Polish White garlic is often less pungent than others, adding a more subtle and delicate flavor to favorite recipes.

How to Grow Polish White Garlic

Growing Polish White garlic plants is relatively simple and something which can be done by even novice gardeners. Like any other variety of garlic, deciding when to plant the cloves will be determined by the garden’s growing zone.

First and foremost, growers will want to purchase garlic for planting from a reliable source. Purchasing from online seed retailers will ensure that the garlic has not been treated with any kind of chemical to prevent sprouting and is disease free.

In general, garlic should be planted into the garden around four to six weeks before the first predicted freeze date. The process of overwintering garlic in the ground will ensure that the plant receives adequate cold treatment for the formation of bulbs in the spring. 

Beyond planting, the garlic will require little care. Once the ground has frozen in the winter, many growers may choose to cover the planting with a layer of leaves or mulch to insulate the planting until spring.

After growth of the plants has resumed in the spring, the cloves of garlic will be ready for harvest when the tops of the plants have started to die back to the ground. With minimal care and some forward planning, growers can ensure that they have abundant garlic harvests for many seasons to come.

Growing your own garlic is pretty easy. Home-grown garlic has a much richer flavor than what you’ll find at the store. If you have no garlic cloves or your garlic isn’t forming bulbs, however, it’s hard to enjoy the harvest. Troubleshoot the issue to make sure it doesn’t happen again.

Why Isn’t My Garlic Ready?

The simplest solution to a problem with bulb or clove formation is that your garlic plants simply aren’t ready. It takes at least 30 nights with temperatures lower than 50 degrees F. (10 C.) for good development of cloves.

If you pull up a garlic plant and see a small bulb or a bulb with no apparent cloves, it may just not be ready yet. Leave the rest of the plants alone and give them some more time. It isn’t until the last couple of weeks of ripening that you’ll actually be able to see the papery divisions between the cloves. That’s when you’ll know the garlic is ready. Before that the garlic looks like an onion.

Other Issues with Garlic Cloves Not Forming

In most cases, it is likely that your plants just aren’t ready to be harvested yet. There could be some other issues causing the problem though. For example, you may have chosen a variety of garlic that doesn’t work well in your climate. Some do better in warmer areas, while other types of garlic prefer a colder climate.

Extremes in weather can also cause garlic plants to be stunted, which may include a small, underdeveloped bulb.

Pests, including onion thrips and nematodes in the soil, may cause similar stunting. Nematodes cause tops to yellow prematurely and bulbs to deform, while thrips show up as white spots on the leaves.

Timing and patience are most important in getting a good harvest from your garlic. Make sure the plants will have enough cool nights to develop bulbs and cloves. Also look out for signs of pests that are stunting growth. Remember that you can still eat underdeveloped, so-called wet garlic. It is tender, flavorful, and especially tasty when grilled.

Growing your own garlic provides the chance to try types that are not readily available on store shelves. Such is the case when growing Red Toch garlic – a type of garlic you’re sure to love. Read on for some additional Red Toch garlic info.

What is Red Toch Garlic?

Red Toch is one of the garlics found to grow vigorously near the city of Tochliavri in the Republic of Georgia, of former USSR. This small area claims a variety of tasty cultivars, with Tochliavri garlic becoming a favorite in many places worldwide.

Wondering what makes it such a favorite? An Allium sativum offering a mild, yet complex, flavor and a unique aroma, many use this Tochliavri garlic for occasions when it will be eaten raw – yes, raw. Some have even called it the “perfect garlic,” using it in dips, salads, and other dishes that call for its use uncooked.

Cloves of this garlic are colored with pink and red streaks. Bulbs are large, producing 12 to 18 cloves in a typical bulb. It is slow to bolt, another big advantage when growing this specimen.

Growing Red Toch Garlic

Growing Red Toch garlic is not complicated. It matures early, before other types planted at the same time. Get started in autumn for a spring harvest. Most places should plant six to eight weeks before the first hard frost. Those living in areas without frost should plant in early winter, or even mid to late winter. Garlic root systems prefer cool temperatures to expand and develop into the biggest bulbs.

Plant Red Toch garlic in a container or a sunny bed in the ground with loose soil several inches (8 cm.) down. This encourages your cloves to grow and spread. Separate the cloves right before planting. Push them gently into the soil about 4 inches (10 cm.) down and 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm.) apart.

After lightly watering in, cover with an organic mulch to help retain moisture and keep weeds from sprouting. Garlic grows best when not competing with weeds. You may also grow garlic in a raised bed if it is deep enough.

When sprouts emerge in spring, begin feeding. Garlic is a heavy feeder and requires adequate nitrogen for best development. Side dress or top dress with heavy nitrogen fertilizer. You may also use organic and liquid fertilizers. Feed the growing garlic bulbs regularly until late spring. Clip off any blooms that may grow, as they are competing with the bulbs’ growth.

Water regularly until bulbs develop fully, usually mid to late spring. Let the soil dry out before harvesting. Check bulbs in a couple spots to make sure they are ready for harvest. If not, allow them to grow another week or so.

Pest and disease rarely affect growing garlic; in fact, it works as a pest repellant for other crops.

Plant Red Toch in a sunny spot among other vegetables in need of pest repellant. Companion plant with flowers too.

A few years ago I was shopping at my favorite grocers and noticed they had something new in the produce department. It looked a bit like garlic, or rather a whole clove of roasted garlic, only blacker in color. I had to inquire and asked the nearest clerk what this stuff was. Turns out, it is black garlic. Never heard of it? Read on to find out how to make black garlic and other fascinating black garlic information.

What is Black Garlic?

Black garlic isn’t a new product. It has been consumed in South Korea, Japan, and Thailand for centuries. Finally, it’s made its way to North America, better late than never because this stuff is fabulous! So what is it? It is, indeed, garlic that has undergone a process that renders it unlike any other garlic. It achieves a heightened flavor and aroma that is in no way reminiscent of the almost acrid odor and intense flavor of raw garlic. It elevates everything it’s added to. It is rather like the umami (savory taste) of garlic adding that magical something to a dish which sends it over the top.

Black Garlic Information

Since its garlic, you may be thinking about growing black garlic, but no, it doesn’t work that way. Black garlic is garlic that has been fermented for a period of time at high temperatures under a controlled humidity of 80 to 90%. During this process, the enzymes that give garlic its strong aroma and flavor break down. In other words, black garlic undergoes the Maillard reaction. If you didn’t know, the Maillard reaction is a chemical reaction between amino acids and reducing sugars that give browned, toasted, roasted, and seared foods their amazing flavor. Anyone who’s eaten a seared steak, some fried onions, or a toasted marshmallow can appreciate this reaction. At any rate, growing black garlic isn’t a possibility, but if you keep reading, you’ll find out how to make black garlic of your own.

How to Make Black Garlic

Black garlic can be purchased at many stores or online, but some folks want to try to make it themselves. To these people, I salute you. Black garlic isn’t difficult to make per se, but it does require time and precision. First, select clean, unblemished whole garlic. If the garlic needs to be washed, allow it to dry completely for six hours or so. Next, you can purchase a black garlic fermenting machine or make it in a slow cooker. A rice cooker works pretty well too. In a fermenting box, set the temp to 122 to 140 degrees F. (50-60 C.). Place the fresh garlic into the box and set the humidity to 60 to 80% for ten hours. After that time has elapsed, change the setting to 106 degrees F. (41 C.) and the humidity to 90% for 30 hours. After the 30 hours are up, change the setting again to 180 degrees F. (82 C.) and a humidity of 95% for 200 hours. If you do not wish to purchase a fermenting machine, then try to follow the same temperature setting with your rice cooker. At the end of this last phase, black garlic gold will be yours and ready to incorporate into marinades, rub on meat, smear on crostini or bread, stir into risotto, or just lick it off your fingers. It really is that good!

Benefits of Black Garlic

The major benefit of black garlic is its heavenly flavor, but nutritionally it has all the same benefits of fresh garlic. It is high in antioxidants, those cancer fighting compounds, which makes it a healthy additive to almost everything, although I’m not sure about black garlic ice cream. Black garlic also ages well and, in fact, gets sweeter the longer it is stored. Store black garlic for up to three months in a sealed container in the refrigerator.

Garlic has a host of health benefits and livens up any recipe. It is a key ingredient in both regional and international cuisine. Do garlic plants bloom? Garlic bulbs are no different than other bulbs in that they sprout and produce flowers. Ornamental garlic plants are grown to produce these blooms, which are called scapes. These are delicious when sautéed and provide an interesting, starry pouf of tiny florets to adorn the landscape.

Do Garlic Plants Bloom?

Garlic plant flowering takes place near the latter part of the plant’s life cycle. Planting garlic for its flowers is as simple as allowing the plants to develop longer than you normally would for bulb harvest. I'm always thrilled to see my garlic is flowering, as it increases the interest in the herb garden and I can still harvest the garlic bulbs, although the inflorescence will redirect energy from the bulb. For larger bulbs, remove the scapes and eat them before the buds burst open. Bulbs are complex storage organs for plants. They house not only the embryo, which causes the plant to form shoots, but also contain the energy needed to start the growth and flowering process. Flowering is part of a plant’s life cycle wherein it seeks to produce seed and perpetuate itself. Although we most commonly grow garlic just for the intoxicating bulbs, allowing garlic plant flowering lends a unique and magical touch to the landscape. Intentionally planting garlic flowers is becoming popular due to the tasty scapes. These are simply the buds for the flower and have a long history as an edible in their own right.

Producing Ornamental Garlic Plants

If you want to try growing some of these aromatic bursts of white florets for yourself, start with planting garlic. If you want big, robust garlic bulbs, it's inadvisable to allow them to flower, but letting the scapes themselves appear does not seem to slow bulb growth. Plant numerous seed garlic in fall for hard neck bulbs or in spring for soft neck. Let a few of these develop scapes and produce starry balls of flowers just for the enjoyment. The rest of the plants should have their scapes removed and be used in salads, soups, sautés, sauces, and any other dish that can be improved with their mild garlic flavor.

What to Do if My Garlic Plant is Flowering

If you have planted garlic for its bulbs and neglect to remove the scapes, the plant is directing its energy to producing flowers rather than bigger bulbs. You can still harvest the bulbs but they will be small and low in flavor. In some regions, garlic can stay in the ground and produce a second year harvest. To reap the benefits the following year, remove the flowers and mulch around the garlic in fall. Let the green shoots die back. In spring, they should re-sprout, and the number of garlic bulbs will increase. Pull away the mulch to allow shoots to emerge from the soil. This way you have one season where planting garlic flower was the goal, but a second season of bulb harvest is still possible. These may still be smaller than they would be without flowering but the flavor will be intense and delicious.

Companion planting is the ultimate garden hack to boost your garlic crops with less manual labor. Garlic companion plants help your bulbs grow better, ward off disease, and taste richer. This style of planting is an old trick that saves you work and keeps your garden humming with minimal fuss – and eventually maximum flavor! By pairing your garlic with the right neighbors, you create a self-sustaining ecosystem that fights pests, improves soil, and can even look better.

Think of garlic as a built-in bodyguard, thanks to its potent sulfur compounds. While we love that scent in dishes, garden pests like aphids and beetles find it repulsive. Garlic companion plant selection is not just about cramming random plants together, though – some plants are amicable bedfellows, while others kick up a fuss. Learning how to grow garlic plants with the right companions involves savvy, time, and strategic placement. Here is how to organize your garlic plantings, create the perfect combinations, protect the patch, and set your bulbs up for the best harvests ever.

Best Companion Plants with Garlic

Companion planting garlic is a natural protector for your garden, and a very robust and versatile option to grow alongside other plants, both ornamentals and crops. Thanks to its potent aromas and pest-repellent capacities, you end up using fewer sprays and enjoy healthy crop combinations. Alongside this, there are mutually beneficial partnerships where the companion is equally supportive and generous in keeping your garlic varieties growing at their best – whether that’s via soil benefits, shade benefits, and flavor enhancements. Here are the smartest ways to use your garlic planting space – get it right, and your whole plot will be pulling its weight. Meet your “who’s who” of garlic companion planting.

1. Garlic Companions for Growth & Flavor

While garlic is often the one helping other plants in the patch, these select companion plants for garlic give as good as they get, leading to a mutually beneficial partnership that ensures larger bulbs and more aromatic cloves:

• Chamomile: Often called the plant doctor, chamomile increases the production of essential oils in garlic, leading to a much punchier, bolder flavor profile. Try Burpee Organic Roman Chamomile Seeds from Amazon for your garlic patch.
• Summer Savory: This herb is a double-threat, as it improves the overall vigor of garlic plants while acting as a natural deterrent for the dreaded onion fly. These quintessential flavor makers boost essential oils as well as vigor. They also help to fix up soil health. Win-win!
• Yarrow: Known as a nutrient accumulator, yarrow improves soil quality around the garlic’s root zone and attracts predatory insects like wasps that keep garlic-munching larvae at bay. These garlic protectors are a genuine asset for your bulbs. You can buy ‘Strawberry Seduction’ Yarrow Seeds from Nature Hills.
• Beets: These root crops thrive in the same soil conditions as garlic. Garlic’s presence prevents beetles from attacking beet greens, while the beets help break up the soil for expanding garlic bulbs. These two classic crops make ideal root neighbors that help maximize your garden space. You can buy a range of beet seeds from Burpee, with purple, white, gold, and striped varieties available.
• Dill: This herb improves the micro-environment for garlic. Dill attracts hoverflies, ladybugs and other beneficial predatory insects, which act as a cleanup crew for stray pests, allowing crops to mature problem-free. You can buy Dill ‘Bouquet Organic’ Seeds from Burpee.

2. Garlic Companions for Pest Controls

Garlic is a powerhouse repellent, but it works even better when paired with trap crops or secondary defenders to create a no-fly zone for insects. These classic pairings help to maintain healthy, nourishing crops all round:

• Carrots: Planting carrots near garlic is a classic move. The garlic’s strong scent masks the smell of carrots from the carrot rust fly, while the carrots provide a living mulch that keeps the soil cool. Ideal root neighbors that maximize garden space.
• Tomatoes: Garlic helps prevent spider mites, blight, and fruit borers ruining your tomato crop. In return, taller tomato plants provide necessary afternoon shade in scorching climates. A classic pairing for hearty growing. Buy ‘Black Cherry’ Tomato Seeds from Amazon.
• Cabbage & Broccoli: These brassicas are magnets for cabbage worms and moths. Garlic acts as a chemical shield, confusing these pests and preventing them from laying eggs on your greens. Cabbage grows happy with garlic, which stops diamondback moths. Broccoli thrives with garlic’s knack for kicking cabbage worms and shielding against fungal woes.
• Kale: Similar to cabbage, kale is often decimated by aphids. Garlic’s sulfurous secretions are absorbed by the soil and nearby roots, making the kale much less tasty to sap-sucking insects. You can buy ‘Black Tuscan Lacinato’ Kale Seeds from Amazon.

3. Garlic Companions for Florals & Displays

Your vegetable patch doesn't have to look utilitarian – and there are some dazzling garlic companions to choose for color and texture. These floral companions offer aesthetic beauty while serving a functional purpose:

• Nasturtiums: These vibrant blooms act as a trap crop. They are so attractive to aphids that the bugs will congregate on the nasturtiums, leaving garlic and other veg untouched. There are some gorgeous nasturtium seed varieties available from Burpee, including bright pink, tangerine, and mixed tonal breeds.
• Tagetes: These sunny flowers produce a chemical called alpha-terthienyl. A mass planting has the potential to kill root-knot nematodes in the soil that can stunt garlic growth. French marigolds also draw pollinators to nearby crops.
• Fruit Trees: Planting a ring of garlic around the base of fruit trees creates a pest barrier with its sharp smell, protecting the tree from aphids, scab, fungal disease and borers, while keeping rabbits and deer from nibbling on young bark.

Planting Garlic with Companions

Setting up a companion-planted bed with garlic requires a little bit of foresight, but it pays off with a low-maintenance yet highly productive summer. Plant bulbs in late fall or early winter, so bulbs can root and establish before conditions get frozen. You can also plant certain garlic varieties in late winter, though the bulb sizes may be smaller.

Get the best garlic bulbs you can – there’s a great range of garlic varieties available from Burpee, including fast-growing and heirloom varieties. Break them into cloves, and use a dibbler like the American Cast Dibbler from Burpee to help plant each one 2 inches (5 cm) deep, pointy end up, and 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) apart, in loose soil that is slightly acidic or neutral, with a pH of 6-7. Use a soil meter like the Yamron 4-in-1 Soil Meter from Amazon to help you identify soil pH, moisture levels, light, and nutrient load. Allowing ample space means that when other plants are growing later, you are still giving garlic bulbs plenty of space to bulk up.

Spacing your garlic and companions with consideration is key. Even friendly plants shouldn't be on top of each other. Don’t crowd things too tight, or you could wind up compromising garlic vitality. When spring arrives, place taller companions (like tomatoes) on the north side of your garlic rows. This ensures that sun-loving garlic isn't shaded out as the other plants grow tall. For underground companions like chunky carrots or beets, give them at least 12 inches (30 cm) of clearance from the garlic to prevent the roots from competing for the same space and tangling up.

Mix in a high-quality compost or aged manure into the soil before planting. A bit of compost at planting, such as Espoma Organic Mushroom Compost from Amazon, gives it a kick. Your garlic also needs full sun to develop big, juicy cloves. Keep the soil moist, but never soggy. Garlic is prone to rotting if it gets wet feet, so ensure your bed has excellent drainage. Add a layer of straw or leaf mulch after planting. This regulates soil temperature and keeps weeds down, meaning less competition for your crops.

Don’t Plant These Together!

Not every plant is a friend of garlic, and certain crops need to be cultivated at a safe distance to preserve overall health, vitality and productivity. Avoid these specific neighbors to prevent a busted harvest:

• Beans and Peas: Garlic is an allelopathic plant to legumes, meaning it produces chemicals that can stunt the growth of beans and peas and interfere with their ability to fix nitrogen. The strong scent of garlic can slow pod formation and stymie root development. Indeed, garlic’s natural chemicals can stop these legumes entirely.
• Sage & Parsley: These herbs are heavy feeders that compete directly with garlic for the same nutrients, often resulting in smaller, leggy garlic bulbs. Sage clashes with garlic, as its heavy aroma disrupts garlic’s bulb formation and flavor. Parsley isn’t a good idea when planted with garlic, since it throws off its growth and weakens its taste. These herbs are far too greedy for the nutrients garlic needs to bulb up.
• Onions & Leeks: One might think that since they are all part of the same family (alliums), they would rub along nicely. However, because they are in the same family, they attract the same pests (like onion maggots and onion flies). Keeping them together creates a buffet that can lead to a localized infestation. Leeks can also wind up competing with garlic for the same nutrients. Best to keep these cousins apart.
• Asparagus: This is a terrible plant to grow near garlic, because it competes for nutrients, stunting both crops’ growth. Asparagus plants, in particular, need plenty of space, so should be planted apart, ideally in a separate bed.

The Garlic Companion Calendar

Because garlic is in the ground for a long time (up to 9 months), it potentially shares the soil with different companions at different stages of its life cycle. Make the most of the time each crop and ornamental spends in the ground with this garlic guide:

1. The Foundation Phase (Oct-Jan): Plant your cloves in late fall or winter. For most companions, it is either too late or too early in their cycle, but you can plant winter rye and apply a light mulch to protect the soil while the garlic roots initially develop. This helps garlic to establish before your companions are even seeds in the ground.
2. The Awakening Phase (March-April): In early spring, green shoots emerge. Apply a light compost tea or organic fertilizer to the soil. Now is the time to sow carrots, beets, and chamomile. These will grow happily alongside garlic as the weather warms.
3. The Growth Spurt (May-June): In late spring, snip off the curly scapes (flower stalks) to force energy into bulb production. This is the window to transplant tomatoes, peppers, and marigolds into the gaps. The garlic is now large enough to provide a scent-barrier for these younger, more vulnerable plants.
4. The Handover (July-Aug): From midsummer on, it’s harvest time! Stop watering 2 weeks before you plan to dig them up. Once the garlic is pulled, tomatoes and flowers will have more room to spread roots and soak up the sun, taking over the bed for the rest of the season.

Companion planting garlic is one of those moves that feels like you’re gaming the system. By picking the right crew – like tomatoes for protection, or chamomile for flavor – you let nature do the heavy lifting. You’ll end up with fewer bugs, better bulbs, and a range of happy edibles and gorgeous ornamentals. So make sure your garlic doesn’t grow without some of these friends around.

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People either love or hate garlic, and it seems like many pests feel the same way. That's why a garlic spray for plants is a good organic way to keep unwanted visitors out of your garden. Though garlic doesn’t bother some insects and animals, others seem to hate it as much as vampires do.

Creating a garlic plant spray as a natural homemade pesticide is an easy, low-cost, non-toxic way to protect precious plants and produce. Though making a garlic plant spray is a simple way to rid your vegetable garden of pests naturally, the best method of best control is always good plant care.

First make sure plants are well cared for, your garden is weed-free, and always use healthy soil with plenty of organic matter. If pests are still plaguing your garden, then it may be time to learn how to make garlic spray for plants. Here's how to do it.

What Pests Does Garlic Plant Spray Deter?

There are a couple ways to use garlic as an organic pesticide. The most common is to make a garlic spray for plants. However, you can also plant garlic in your garden, but we'll talk more about that later.

Garlic spray for plants can keep away a lot of different pests that create problems for gardeners. Here are some of the pests garlic can help prevent:

• Aphids
• Ants
• Beetles
• Borers
• Caterpillars
• Armyworms
• Slugs
• Termites
• Whiteflies

What You Will Need

To make garlic spray for plants, you will need a handful of items you probably already have at home:

• 4 to 5 garlic cloves
• Dishwashing liquid (preferably a natural, biodegradable soap)
• Garlic press, knife, food processor, or mortar & pestle. The OXO Good Grips Garlic Press from Amazon is a good option.
• Bowl with spout, pitcher, or bucket
• Jar or other container with a lid
• Cheesecloth or coffee filter
• Spray bottle (like these from Amazon)

How to Make Garlic Spray for Plants

Once you've gathered the necessary supplies to make your garlic plant spray, it's time to start creating your very own homemade pesticide. First, you'll make a concentrate that you will then dilute with water so you don't hurt plants.

1. Crush Garlic Cloves

To create the concentrate, first crush the garlic cloves. Do this with either a garlic press, food processor, or mortar and pestle. If you don't have any of these tools in your kitchen, mince the garlic into tiny pieces and then use the flat side of the knife to carefully smash the minced garlic into a paste.

2. Add Garlic To Soapy Water

Next, fill a bowl, pitcher, or bucket with 4 cups (0.94 L) of water and 4 to 5 drops of liquid dishwashing soap. Add your crushed garlic into the soap mixture and stir to combine the concentrate.

3. Strain the Mixture

Cover the mouth of a large jar, or other container with a tight-fitting lid, with cheesecloth. Pour the concentrate into the jar, using the cheesecloth to strain out any bits of garlic that may clog the spray bottle.

If you don't have cheesecloth on hand, use a coffee filter to strain your garlic plant spray. Pour slowly so you don't overflow and spill any of the pungent mixture.

After straining, either store your garlic and soap concentrate in the jar or transfer it to a spray bottle to use immediately.

4. Dilute the Mixture

The garlic and soap concentrate is too strong to use as is, so you have to dilute it first before applying to plants. To prepare your garlic spray for plants, combine the garlic and soap concentrate with water at a ratio of 1:10.

For example, use 1/4 cup concentrate per 2 ½ cups of water (60ml concentrate per 600ml water). Combine the diluted mixture into a spray bottle and you're ready to spray!

Keep in mind that this natural pesticide won’t last forever. It is best to use it soon after making, as the concentrate will lose potency over time.

How to Use Garlic Plant Spray

To apply your homemade pesticide, spray plants once a week to protect against pests or twice a week if it's rainy. Don’t spray when it is getting close to harvest time unless you want your produce to taste like garlic and soap.

Garlic spray is a broad spectrum pesticide, so only spray the parts of the plants that are affected by pests to lessen the risk of harming any beneficial insects that might be visiting your garden.

You may be wondering now, will garlic spray hurt plants? If you use the garlic and soap concentrate without diluting it in water, you could harm your plants. To use your pesticide safely, dilute the concentrate with water before applying to plants.

Another way of using garlic for pest control is to intercrop with it. That just means planting garlic amongst other plants in your garden. This is especially beneficial if you love garlic, like I do.

If you're interested in growing garlic anyways, plant it around roses to repel aphids or around the tomatoes to prevent red spider mites. While garlic does a wonderful job of repelling pests on many plants, avoid planting near legumes, peas and potatoes as these plants do not get along well together.

Garlic packs a robust aroma and flavor that many of us can’t do without. The good news is that garlic is fairly easy to grow and for the most part, is pest resistant. In fact, garlic is often a part of co-planting or companion planting, wherein garlic is grown alongside other plants to their mutual benefit. That said, even garlic has its share of garlic plant pests. What are some common garlic pests and how can you control pests on garlic bulbs?

What are Common Garlic Pests?

Garlic has both natural fungicidal and pesticidal properties. That’s why many gardeners plant it near certain crops. Garlic contains the compound allicin, which is released when the cloves are crushed or bitten. Possibly, this is garlic’s defense mechanism, but whatever the case, it serves to deter some pests like aphids near lettuce. Apparently, they don’t love garlic as much as I do; they view it as more like the repellent it is to Dracula. Even so, the plant may get garlic bugs that worship the bulb. Many of these garlic plant pests also plague onions, which are closely related to garlic. Mites – Bulb mites are one example of pests found on garlic bulbs and other alliums. Off white in color, shiny, and globular, they are found huddled together under the plants’ roots. Bulb mites reduce harvest and generally stunt plant growth. They can live from one growing season to the next, so it is recommended that you rotate plantings by skipping the allium varieties in successive years. Leaf miners – Leaf miners (Liriomyza huidobrensis) are another pest found on garlic bulbs, first as eggs lain within the leaf tissue. The hatchlings are tiny, off-white larvae that then tunnel inside the leaves, leaving visible damage. Although the resulting leaf damage is primarily cosmetic, the presence of leaf miners may damage other leafy crops in the garden. Wheat curl mites – Severe infestations of wheat curl mite can cause twisted, stunted leaf growth but its major impact is upon the bulb. Wheat curl mites (Eriphyes tulipae) can cause cloves to dry out. The mites act as a vector for Yellow Streak virus as well. The mites are so tiny; they are nearly invisible to the naked eye. Treating the mites is possible by dipping the seed garlic in hot water prior to planting. Nematodes – A particularly insidious garlic bug is the nematode (Ditylenchus dipsaci), which lives and reproduces inside garlic plants. These microscopic worm-like pests eat all parts of the stems, leaves, and bulbs. It can live without water and survive for many years in the soil. Nematode nibbling can result in deformation, discoloration, and tissue collapse of the bulb. The worst thing about garlic nematodes is that their population continues to expand exponentially for years with no visible signs of damage. What this means is that for years, healthy garlic plants will not be significantly affected but then all at once the astronomical nematode population will decimate the garlic crop. Thrips – Lastly, thrips are the garlic plant’s most common pest. They suck the sap from the plants, gradually slowing growth and bulb production. If the infestation is severe, entire commercial garlic fields can wilt and die. In additional to those above, garlic plants can, on occasion, be feasted on by snails.

Control of Garlic Insect Pests

Some of the above pests can be dealt with by applying commercially available pesticides. If you would rather use a more organic method, the first order of business is to practice crop rotation, not just for garlic, but for any alliums. Also, seek out guaranteed clean seed. Practice strict sanitation and only use disease-free planting material. Sticky traps can be laid to entrap thrip migrations. Garlic’s powerful aroma may also be a key player in garlic insect pest control. Garlic extract is used to treat some plants and for repelling pests such as slugs. Strangely, an application of garlic extract may be the key to thwarting nefarious insect armies and if your nose is up for it, certainly worth a try.

Garlic is a component to most international cuisines. The herb’s popularity is a testament to its powers and intoxicating flavor. Add a little garlic to almost any dish and it perks up perceptibly. Garlic plant propagation is a noteworthy pursuit for those of us who need our garlic fix. Fresh bulbs, scapes, and leaves add punch or delicate notes, depending upon your desires. Learn how to propagate garlic for a garden-fresh supply of this Allium plant year-round.

How to Propagate Garlic

You know you want it. Garlic with its pungent, zesty flavor and intense aromatic properties is actually quite easy to grow. Choice of variety that is suitable for your growing zone and soil is the first concern when propagating garlic bulbs. Softneck varieties grow best in warm climates, while the hardneck types are more suited to cooler climes. For the indecisive gardener, the Asian species can perform well in either climate.

Planting Garlic Cloves

Fall is the best time to plant most garlic. In climates with longer growing seasons, you can plant in late winter to early spring as soon as all danger of frost has passed. Garlic plant propagation requires deeply cultivated beds with plenty of compost added in to enrich the soil and enhance drainage. Dig trenches 1 inch (2.5 cm.) deep and 2 inches (5 cm.) wide. Keep trenches 6 inches (15 cm.) apart and plant individual cloves at the same spacing. A single garlic bulb can yield up to eight plants. Separate the cloves, ensuring the papery covering is intact. Place each clove with the pointed top upright and cover the trenches with amended soil. Place several inches (8 cm.) of mulch such as straw over the top of the beds.

Propagating Garlic Bulbs from Seed

Garlic seed is tiny and contained in the mature, dried flowers of the plants. Shake out the tiny black seeds and plant them immediately or save them in a cool, dry location until ready to plant. Growing the Allium from seed can be a frustrating process, as it takes much longer than plants established from cloves or bubils, and germination is capricious. Plant seeds indoors in fall to early winter after a storage period of four weeks in the refrigerator to encourage germination. Use a good seed starting mixture and plant seeds in flats with ¼ inch (1 cm) soil covering them. They need to be in an area of at least 65 degrees F. (15 C.), covered to retain moisture and heat, and place in a spot with bright light after seedlings emerge. Harden off seedlings before transplanting to prepared beds in spring. Propagating garlic cloves will result in edible bulbs in a few months as opposed to seeded garlic, which produces bulbs the following year.

Planting Garlic Bulbils

Another method of garlic plant propagation is through the use of bulbils. Bulbils are located in the scape of hardneck varieties or on the false neck of softneck species. They are small undivided bulbs that can function like seed. The advantages to using bulbils are their ability to prevent soil borne disease and their faster production. Plant garlic bulbils 1 inch (2.5 cm.) deep in fall, much the same way you would plant cloves. Care and cultivation is the same as bulb-planted garlic. Be careful not to weed out the tiny seedlings in spring, which will emerge looking much like common grass. Leave the plants in the ground until the tops turn brown and then harvest. The resulting bulbs will be smaller than those you get when propagating from cloves but equally delicious and you can get many more from bulbils.

Garlic is a plant that requires some patience. It takes around 240 days to mature and it's worth every second. In our household there really is no such thing as too much garlic! During the course of those 240 days, any number of pests, diseases, and weather conditions can affect the garlic crop. One such crisis occurs when garlic is falling over. So, how to fix drooping garlic? Read on to learn more.

Help, My Garlic Fell Over!

First things first. I'm stating the obvious for most garlic growers, but here goes. When garlic is reaching maturation, the leaves begin to sag and brown. You end up with garlic plants drooping. If you do a quick math calculation to figure out how many months it has been since you planted the garlic, you may just realize that it's nearing harvest time. If you're still in doubt and your memory is like mine (that is like a sieve), simply pull up one of droopy plants. If the bulb is large and ready, there's no need to wait for full dieback, but leave the foliage on to dry naturally. This extends the garlic's storage time. If the bulb is ready, then there's no further need for troubleshooting floppy garlic. If, however, the garlic is falling over and readiness isn't a factor, it's time to look further for another possible cause.

Troubleshooting Floppy Garlic

How to fix drooping garlic depends on what other problems may be affecting the plants.

Moisture issues

Another reason for a drooping garlic plant is the most common reason for drooping in any plant-- lack of water. Garlic requires consistently moist soil. Water the plants with 2 inches (5 cm.) of water at least two times a week. Conversely, too much water can also affect the garlic, resulting in garlic that is falling over. Sometimes during heavy rainstorms, your garlic may get beaten down by the force of the storm. Don't worry; it's likely that the garlic will bounce back as it dries.

Nutrient problems

Yet another reason for drooping garlic plants may be that they are hungry. Lack of nitrogen, potassium, calcium, and magnesium will affect the growth of the plants. You can bring them around by doing a foliar feed or root zone feeding.

Insect pests

A more dire possibility may be that the garlic has become the host for onion root maggot or wireworms. Although garlic is a hardy veggie, it's also prone to any number of insect infestations and fungal diseases, not to mention the above soil deficiencies.

Poor location

Perhaps you have planted your garlic in the wrong spot. Garlic needs at least six hours of sun in quick draining soil, rich with nutrients. Maybe you should try replanting the garlic. Prepare a new site for it if you think the wilt is caused by poor soil or if the plants are in too shady of an area. Amend the soil in a sunny area with equal parts of organic compost and well-draining soil. Dig 3 inches (8 cm.) of this into the top 3 inches (8 cm.) of soil in the new site. Dig the garlic up and transfer them in the morning of a cool day. Feed the garlic with a side dressing of nitrogen fertilizer. Dig this into the top inch (2.5 cm.) of soil around each plant and water the plants immediately thereafter. Spread 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) of organic mulch around the plants to maintain warmth and moisture. Hopefully, all this will perk up the garlic and you will no longer need to say, “Help, my garlic fell over!”

Growing your own food is an incredibly rewarding experience, but it can also be frustrating since plant diseases and pests seem to be everywhere. This fall, why not try planting a few garlic cloves for next spring? If you're trying your hand at growing garlic, keep an eye out for these common garlic problems.

Garlic Problems in the Garden

Garlic pests and diseases can ruin your harvest, sometimes without you even knowing it until it's too late. Others wait to emerge until later, causing problems when drying garlic. Either way, it's a huge headache. The most common problems of garlic are caused by these common types of pathogens:

Fungal

By far, fungal problems are the most common garlic plant problems. You may get an early hint that something's wrong, like early yellowing of foliage or white or gray, fluffy growth low on the stem. Unfortunately, there's very little that can be done about fungal diseases in garlic. The best strategy is to practice a four year crop rotation. If you can't do this, some fungal pathogens, like Botrytis, can be discouraged by wide spacing between plants. Drying garlic quickly will often prevent storage spoilage. When you must use the same garden space, minimize sources of fungal spores like dead leaves and spent plants by immediately removing and burning or bagging.

Nematodes

These tiny roundworms live in the soil and feed on roots and bulbs-- they can destroy an entire crop in no time. If your plants are lacking in vigor or the leaves look bloated, nematodes may be the cause. Fungus and bacteria can further complicate diagnosis by moving into the nematodes' feeding sites. Nematode control in the home garden isn't easy, which is why most gardeners simply move to another garden spot for several years to starve the pests out. You'll have to take care to ensure that no members of the onion or nightshade family pop up unexpectedly to give the nematodes something new to feed upon during that time.

Mites

Bulb mites sometimes bother garlic and onions, feeding on stem plates and roots. Infected plants will be much smaller than non-infected plants and may easily pull out of the soil because of their damaged root system. You may be able to see tiny, cream-colored mites with purple-brown legs clustered under garlic scales or at the base of roots. Like with nematodes, the feeding of these mites allows other pathogens to invade the garlic bulb. You'll also need to practice crop rotation to destroy these mites. They're more flexible in their feeding than nematodes, so leaving your garden fallow or planting it out with a green, non-bulbing manure is recommended.

Garlic propagation is often associated with the planting of garlic cloves, also referred to as vegetative reproduction or cloning. Another method for commercial propagation is on the rise too-- growing garlic from bulbils. The question is can you, the home gardener, grow garlic from bulbils?

Can You Grow Garlic Bulbils?

First off, you may be wondering what a “bulbil” is. Bulbils are tiny, undivided bulbs produced in the scape of hardneck garlic. The scape looks like a garlic flower; however, the reproductive parts are for show only. There is no cross-pollination. Essentially, the bulbils are clones of the mother plant that can be planted to produce a replica of this parent. There may be less than 10 garlic plant bulbils or 150, depending upon the variety. Bulbil size ranges as well, from that of a grain of rice to the size of a chickpea. So, the answer is yes, you can easily grow garlic from bulbils. There is an advantage to planting garlic bulbils over cloves. Propagating from garlic plant bulbils can revitalize garlic strains, thwart the transmission of soil-borne diseases, and is economical as well. Now I'm betting you want to know how to grow garlic from bulbils, but first, you need to harvest them.

Harvesting Garlic Plant Bulbils

Harvest the bulbils when mature or when the cluster has expanded and split open the sheath surrounding it. You may cut this from the plant or hang and dry the entire plant. Drying takes a significant amount of time, so be sure to hang the scape or plant in a dry area lest they mildew. When the bulbils are easily removed by lightly rubbing, you are ready to separate them from the clusters, remove the chaff and dry further in a shallow pan in an aerated area with no direct sun. They can then be stored at room temp or cooler for six to seven months in an unsealed container. Do not refrigerate.

How to Grow Garlic from Bulbils

Garlic likes rich, well-drained soil amended with a good dose of compost and a soil pH of 6 to 8. Rocky or heavy clay soil will produce misshapen bulbs. Sow bulbils in a raised bed ½ to 1 inch (1-2.5 cm.) deep, depending upon their size, and about 6 inches (15 cm.) apart. The depth difference when planting garlic bulbils accounts for their size; tiny bulbils should be sown at a shallower depth. Space the rows 6 inches (15 cm.) apart. Cover the bulbils with dirt and water in well. Keep the area weed free. The tiny bulbils take about three years to produce a good-sized cloven bulb while the larger bulbils will produce small cloven bulbs in the first year. In the second year, harvest the bulbils and cure them like garlic and then replant the “round” that fall. By the third year, the growing garlic from bulbils should be that of a normal-sized bulb.

While it’s tempting to treat garlic as a plant-and-forget crop, it will only reward you richly if you treat it well. A clove planted in the fall won’t magically turn into a fat bulb by summer unless it has the nutrients it needs along the way. Using the right garlic fertilizer at the right time will make all the difference between weedy plants and large, flavorful bulbs.

Garlic is a surprisingly heavy feeder. That long growing season – often eight to nine months – means the plants steadily draw on soil fertility. Neglect fertilizer, and you could end up with small bulbs or yellowing foliage. However, overdo it and you’ll be left with soft bulbs that store poorly. A balanced approach is key.

If you’re just learning how to grow garlic, then knowing how to fertilize is a great place to start, as it will make a huge impact on crop quality. In this guide, you’ll learn how to choose the best fertilizer for garlic, when to apply it, and how to spot potential problems.

Why Garlic Needs Fertilizer

Garlic is not a crop that thrives in poor soil. It has a long growing season and high nutrient needs, which is why you’ll often hear gardeners call it a “heavy feeder.” Because bulbs take so long to come to fruition, it's best to think about feeding garlic plants right from the start.

When you plant a clove, it will set down roots in the cool months and then push out green shoots once spring arrives. These shoots allow it to build energy for bulb formation. Without steady nutrition, the bulbs won’t size up properly.

Best Fertilizer for Garlic Plants

Whatever types of garlic you are growing, the best fertilizer is one that provides plenty of nitrogen. This essential nutrient drives leafy green growth in spring, which later fuels bulb development.

If you’re growing organically, then opt for a natural product like blood meal, alfalfa meal, or fish emulsion. Otherwise, choose a balanced granular fertilizer, such as 10-10-10 – this Gardenwise 10-10-10 plant fertilizer, available from Amazon, is a slow-release formula that’s ideal to use when planting garlic.

When to Fertilize Garlic

Fertilizing garlic should be done in three stages. Ideally, feed once at planting, a few times through spring, and then only lightly in early summer, easing off before harvest.

1. At Planting Time

Soil preparation is the most important stage when fertilizing garlic. About six weeks before the ground freezes, or in mild climates from January to February, work compost or well-rotted manure into the top 6 inches (15 cm) of soil. This will also help improve drainage, which is important as garlic will struggle in soggy beds.

In addition to compost or mature, a light application of a balanced fertilizer at the time of planting helps establish strong roots.

Recommended soil amendments per 100 sq ft (9.3 sq m):

• Compost: 50 to 75 lbs (23 to 34 kg)
• Well-rotted manure: 40 lbs (18 kg)
• 10-10-10 fertilizer: 2 lbs (0.9 kg)
• Blood meal: 3 lbs (1.3 kg)

Soil preparing tip: Several weeks before planting, it’s a good idea to test soil pH using a home kit like the MySoil soil test kit from Amazon. A pH of 6.0 to 7.0 is ideal for garlic, so if your soil is more acidic or alkaline, then you will need to amend accordingly.

2. Spring Feeding

Starting in early spring, fertilize garlic every three to four weeks through the season using a high-nitrogen feed initially. Blood meal and fish emulsion work well – try The Grow Co’s organic fish emulsion fertilizer from Amazon.

3. Harvest Build-up

Do not fertilize garlic with high-nitrogen foods after May, as this may stunt the bulb size. In early summer, lightly side-dress with compost or use weakly diluted liquid feed.

How to Fertilize Garlic

There are different methods for applying fertilizer throughout the growing season, depending on the type of product:

• Side-dressing – Dig a row an inch (2.5 cm) deep, about 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm), from the plant, then sprinkle in granular fertilizer and water in.
• Liquid feeds – Dilute according to package instructions and pour around the base of plants every few weeks in spring.
• Broadcasting – This involves spreading fertilizer over the whole bed. It works particularly well if you mulch afterward.

Topping off soil with a layer of mulch – whether straw, shredded leaves, or another material – helps conserve moisture and keeps nutrients from washing away. If you’re new to gardening, then learning how to mulch plants will make the world of difference.

Feeding Problems

It’s important to check plants occasionally to keep an eye out for common garlic problems. Fertilizing issues are easy to diagnose. Yellow leaves in spring are usually a sign of nitrogen deficiency – a dose of fish emulsion or a side-dress with blood meal can fix the problem.

If the bulbs seem small or fail to form properly, that can also be traced back to poor feeding. On the other hand, over-fertilizing, especially late in the season, encourages lush, soft growth that doesn’t cure well and may rot in storage.

Frequently Asked Questions

There are many different types of garlic you can grow in the garden, each with its own strengths – whether that’s storing well through the winter, enduring hard frosts, or bringing a rich depth of flavor to recipes. Choosing the right kind makes all the difference to both your harvest and your cooking.

Garlic varieties are generally grouped as either hardneck garlic or softneck garlic – though elephant garlic is often treated as a category of its own. All these types grow a little differently and suit different climates. So, if your goal is bulbs that last longer in storage or you’re aiming for the strongest flavor, then it pays to know the differences. You also need to think about where you live, because the local climate has a big impact when choosing the best type of garlic to grow.

Garlic has been cultivated for thousands of years, with origins traced back to the Mediterranean and beyond, and it has travelled with people across the world. Today, there are hundreds of varieties, but most fall neatly into those main types. If you’re just learning how to grow garlic, it helps to begin with a variety that’s known to be dependable. Once you've harvested your first successful crop, you’ll be full of confidence to try other types and discover new favorites.

What Is Hardneck Garlic?

Hardneck garlic (Allium sativum var. ophioscorodon) produces fewer but larger cloves, usually in a circle around a stiff central stem. The flavor tends to be stronger and more complex than softneck, which makes it a favorite for roasting. Hardnecks also produce garlic scapes – those curling flower stalks that can be harvested and cooked in their own right.

Hardnecks are tough plants that thrive in cold climates and will handle frost without complaint. But one drawback is storage. Hardneck bulbs usually last 3 to 5 months, so you’ll want to use them fairly quickly. Invest in a garlic keeper, like this Henry Watson terracotta garlic keeper on Amazon, to prolong its shelf life.

Best Hardneck Varieties

Some of the well-known groups and named varieties of hardneck garlic include:

• Chesnok Red – sweet undertones; known for keeping its flavor even after cooking.
• Chet’s Italian Red – large cloves, good yields, and excellent flavor for cooking.
• Early Red Italian – early maturing with a strong, classic garlic taste.
• German White – big bulbs with strong, hot flavor; often grown in cold regions.
• Kettle River Giant – very large bulbs with robust, full flavor.
• Persian Star – striking purple and white bulbs with a mild but complex flavor.
• Polish Hardneck – cold-hardy and flavorful, with medium-sized bulbs.
• Polish Red – spicier notes and good yield, suited to colder climates.
• Polish White – reliable hardneck with classic garlic flavor; ideally suited to northern gardens.
• Porcelain – very large cloves with a strong, pungent taste; better storage than many hardnecks.
• Purple Stripe – attractive purple-streaked skins and great for roasting.
• Red Toch – a variety from Georgia, USA, with mild, pleasant taste.
• Rocambole – rich, deep flavor and easy-peel cloves, though it has a shorter storage life.

What Is Softneck Garlic?

Softneck garlic (Allium sativum var. sativum) is what you’ll usually find in supermarkets. These bulbs have many small cloves, often 10 to 20 per bulb, wrapped in several layers of papery skin. The flavor is milder than hardneck but still versatile in cooking. Their big advantage is storage – softneck garlic can last 6 to 8 months when cured properly, sometimes even longer. They are also the best option for growing garlic in containers.

Unlike hardnecks, softnecks don’t produce scapes, and their soft stems can be braided for attractive storage. They prefer mild or warm climates and may struggle in areas with very cold winters.

Learning how to harvest and store garlic correctly will help you make the most of softneck varieties. This Mekolife herb drying rack on Amazon will enable you to dry your garlic and other herbs while keeping them safe from pests.

Best Softneck Varieties

Groups and named varieties of softneck garlic include:

• Applegate – mild and reliable; well-suited to braiding and good storage.
• Artichoke – common supermarket type with good yields and mild flavor.
• California Early – widely grown variety with mild flavor, harvested earlier than most.
• California Late – similar to California Early but harvested later, with better storage.
• Creole – distinctive red to purple cloves, with a bold taste; loves the heat.
• Inchelium Red – an heirloom from Washington State, mild early but richer with storage.
• Italian Late – dependable storage garlic with a mellow taste.
• Italian Purple – attractive purple blush on skin; classic Italian flavor.
• Lorz Italian – heirloom softneck with spicy flavor; well adapted to hot climates.
• Silverskin – stores the longest of all garlic, often up to 12 months, with a strong flavor that develops over time.

Elephant Garlic

Elephant garlic (Allium ampeloprasum var. ampeloprasum) looks impressive with its huge bulbs and massive cloves, but it isn’t a true garlic – it’s more closely related to leeks. The flavor is much milder, which can be a plus if you find regular garlic too strong. Elephant garlic can be roasted whole for a sweet, gentle taste.

Bulbs can be as large as a fist, with just a few cloves inside. It’s often grown as a curiosity or for its looks as much as for the kitchen.

Choosing the Best Garlic Variety for Your Garden

When deciding which garlic to plant – and especially when weighing up hardneck vs softneck garlic – think about your climate first. Hardnecks tolerate hard freezes and long winters, making them well-suited to cold regions (USDA zones 3 to 6). However, they struggle in very hot southern summers.

Softnecks suit warmer areas and will give you the longest storage. While best for USDA Zones 7 to 10, they can be grown further north with heavy mulch, but performance is less reliable.

Elephant garlic can grow in a range of places (USDA Zones 4 to 9), but it isn’t a direct substitute for true garlic in recipes.

Garlic is a heavy feeder, so it's important to fertilize garlic at the time of planting and beyond if you want those big, flavorsome bulbs. Use a slow-release formula, like Gardenwise 10-10-10 plant fertilizer, available from Amazon, which is ideal to use when planting garlic.

As well as climate, consider your kitchen use. Do you want bulbs to last through the year in storage? If so, Silverskin softnecks are the best choice. Are you after bold flavor for roasting or fresh eating? A Porcelain or Rocambole hardneck will suit you better.

Frequently Asked Questions

Not only does garlic keep the vampires at bay but it also makes everything taste better. Fresh garlic from potted garlic plants keeps the nearby bulbs crisper and more pungent than any from the grocery. Growing garlic in containers takes some planning and the right type of container. Read on for some tips on how to grow garlic in a container and capture the head bite of fresh bulbs in your home recipes.

Container Gardening for Garlic

Garlic is in the Allium family, which includes onions and shallots. The bulbs are the most powerful flavor on the plants, but the greens are also eaten. It is these heady bulbs which are the basis for planting. Each is planted 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) deep and must also have room for the roots to grow. This should be a consideration when choosing your container. Garlic planted in fall is ready for harvest by June. Growing produce in pots near the kitchen is a space-saving trick, but also allows the cook in the family easy access to the freshest ingredients possible.

Containers for Growing Garlic

Growing garlic in containers provides that just-picked flavor for the strongest bulbs ever. You need one that is at least 6 inches (15 cm.) deep and has excellent drainage. The container also needs to be big enough to leave 6 inches (15 cm.) of space between cloves. Other things to consider are evaporation rate and heat conductivity. Terra cotta pots evaporate more quickly and will need to be watered more often than glazed pots. If you don't care about appearance, you can even use a 5-gallon (19 L.) bucket with holes punched into the bottom.

Soil Mixture for Potted Garlic Plants

The proper soil medium is important for garlic planting in pots. It can't retain too much moisture nor be too dry, and should have plenty of organic nutrients available for the bulbs. A good mix of peat, perlite, or vermiculite, and potting mix or compost with a little bit of builder's sand will give you the drainage, moisture retention, and nutrients necessary for growing garlic in containers. Container gardening for garlic can also include some early harvest cool vegetables, such as lettuce, which will be harvested before winter's chill in most cases. Lettuces planted over un-sprouted cloves will minimize weeds and keep the soil broken up with their roots.

How to Grow Garlic in a Container

Once you have your planting medium and container, fill the receptacle halfway full of the soil mix. Add a slow-release granular balanced plant food, such as a 10-10-10, and mix into the soil. Insert the bulbs with the pointed side up and then backfill with more soil, pressing around each clove. If moisture is minimal, water the soil until it is evenly damp. Plant a short-term crop on top or simply cover the container with organic mulch. In spring the shoots will come up and eventually turn into scapes. Harvest these for stir fry or just to eat raw. By late June, your garlic is ready to dig up and cure. Container gardening for garlic is that easy and very rewarding. Try it as an annual part of your fall planting for delicious ready-to-grab flavor and zing in all your food.

Companion planting is a modern term applied to an age-old practice. Native Americans certainly utilized companion planting when cultivating their vegetables. Among the myriad of companion plant options, planting garlic with tomatoes, as well as with other types of vegetables, holds a unique place.

Can You Plant Garlic Near Tomatoes?

Companion planting works by increasing plant diversity. Simply put, companion planting is alternating two or more types of veggies in a single row. This practice seeks to confound insects that tend to consume certain crops, leading them to move onto greener pastures, so to speak. This practice is also referred to as intercropping-- that is combining plants that are desired by insects among those that are undesirable. The Native Americans commonly intercropped three specific crops-- corn, pole beans, and squash-- called the Three Sisters method. This mutually advantageous planting system allows the beans to make use of the corn stalks to climb up, provides the corn nitrogen through the beans, and the squash provides living mulch. There are many common combinations for companion planting. Some of these involve other vegetables or often flowers and herbs that repel insect marauders or attract pollinators. The answer to the above question is of course, you can plant garlic near tomatoes, but is there a benefit to such a companion planting? Strong smelling and tasting plants like onions and garlic are known to repel specific insect species.

Garlic and Tomato Companion Planting

So what benefit is there to planting garlic with tomatoes? Garlic is said to repel aphids when companion planted with roses. When garlic is grown around fruit trees, it deters borers, and specifically protects peach trees from leaf curl and apples from apple scab. Garlic in the garden is also said to deter:

• Codling moths
• Japanese beetles
• Root maggots
• Snails
• Carrot root fly

Growing tomato plants next to garlic repels spider mites known to ravage the tomato crop. It seems that while most of us love the pungent flavor and aroma of garlic, the insect world finds it less irresistible. Keep in mind, however, that not all plants in the garden coexist with garlic as readily as companion planting garlic with tomatoes. Veggies such as peas, beans, and cabbage have abhorrence for garlic. You cannot only plant tomato plants next to garlic as a natural insecticide, but you can make your own garlic spray too. To make a garlic insecticidal spray, simply crush four cloves of garlic and steep them in a liter of water for several days. Pour this brew into a spray bottle for use as an insecticide, provided you are one of the many of us who love the smell of garlic.

Garlic is found in almost every cuisine on the planet. This popularity has led to more and more people trying to cultivate their own bulbs. This leads one to wonder how to save garlic for next year's crop.

How to Save Garlic for Next Year

Garlic originates from Central Asia but has been cultivated for over 5,000 years in Mediterranean countries. The ancient Greeks and Romans enjoyed garlic with reports of gladiators consuming the bulb prior to battle. Egyptian slaves are purported to have consumed the bulb to give them the strength to build the great pyramids. Garlic is one of 700 species in the Allium or onion family, of which there are three specific types of garlic: softneck (Allium sativum), hardneck (Allium ophioscorodon), and elephant garlic (Allium ampeloprasum). Garlic is a perennial but is usually grown as an annual. It is a relatively easy plant to grow provided it has full sun exposure and well amended, well-draining soil. Your garlic will be ready for harvest in the mid to late summer. Leave the bulbs in the ground as long as possible to allow them to attain maximum size, but not so long that the cloves begin to separate, which adversely affects garlic bulb storage. Wait for the foliage to die back and begin to brown, then carefully lift the bulbs out of the soil, taking care not to cut the bulb. Fresh bulbs bruise easily, which may encourage infection and affect the storing garlic bulbs, effectively cutting their shelf life.

Storing Garlic Bulbs

When storing garlic bulbs, cut the garlic stalks an inch (2.5 cm.) above the bulb. When saving garlic stock for the next year, the bulbs need to be cured first. Curing bulbs simply involves drying the garlic in a dry, warm, dark, and ventilated area for a few weeks. Select your largest bulbs when saving garlic stock for planting the following year. Curing the garlic bulbs properly is crucial to storing garlic for planting. If you cure outdoors, the bulbs risk sunburn and poorly ventilated areas may facilitate disease and mildew. Hanging the bulbs from the stalks in a dark, airy space is one of the best methods. Curing will take anywhere from 10 to 14 days. The bulbs will be successfully cured when the neck has constricted, the center of the stem has hardened, and the outer skins are dry and crisp. Proper storage is also crucial when saving garlic stock for planting. While garlic will keep for a short time at room temperatures of between 68 and 86 degrees F. (20-30 C.), the bulbs will begin to degrade, soften, and shrivel. For long term storage, garlic should be kept at temps between 30 and 32 degrees F. (-1 to 0 C.) in well ventilated containers and will keep for six to eight months. If, however, the goal of storing garlic is strictly for planting, the bulbs should be stored at 50 degrees F. (10 C.) at a relative humidity of 65 to 70 percent. If the bulb is stored between 40 and 50 degrees F., (3-10 C.) it will easily break dormancy and result in side shoot sprouting (witches brooms) and premature maturation. Storage above 65 degrees F. (18 C.) results in late maturation and delayed sprouting. Be sure to plant only seed garlic that has been properly stored and keep an eye out for any garlic blight nematodes. This nematode causes bloated, twisted, swollen leaves with cracked, mottled bulbs and weakens plants. When saving and storing garlic stock from one year to the next, plant only seed bulbs that appear unblemished and healthy for the best results.

Most epicureans use garlic on an almost daily basis to enhance the flavor of our culinary creations. Another plant that can be used to impart a similar, though lighter, flavor of garlic is the elephant garlic. How do you grow elephant garlic and what are some of elephant garlic uses? Read on to learn more.

What is Elephant Garlic?

Elephant garlic (Allium ampeloprasum) looks like a giant garlic clove but in fact, is not a true garlic; instead it is more closely related to a leek. It's a hardy bulb with large blue-green leaves. This perennial herb boasts an outsized pink or purple flower stalk that appears in the spring or summer. Under the ground, a large bulb consisting of five to six large cloves surrounded by smaller bulblets grows. This allium plant attains a height of about 3 feet (1 m.) from bulb to the tip of the strap-like leaves, and originates in Asia.

How to Grow Elephant Garlic

This herb is easy to grow and once established, requires little maintenance. Purchase large seed cloves from a supplier or try setting those found at the grocers. Elephant garlic bought at the grocers may not sprout, however, as they are often sprayed with a growth inhibitor to prevent sprouting. Look for heads that are firm with a dry, papery covering. With elephant garlic planting most any soil will do, but for the largest bulbs, begin with a well-draining soil medium. Dig down a foot (31 cm.) into the soil and amend with a 1.5 gallon (3.5 L.) bucket of sand, granite dust, humus/peat moss mix per 2 foot by 2 foot (61 x 61 cm.) to 3 foot by 3 foot (1 x 1 m.) sections and mix in well. Top dress with some well-aged manure and mulch around the plants with chopped leaves and/or sawdust to keep weeds at bay. This will also nourish the plants as the amendments decompose or break down. Elephant garlic prefers full sun and can be grown in temperate regions all the way into tropical zones. In cooler climates, plant in the fall or spring while in warmer regions the herb can be planted in spring, fall, or winter. Break up the bulb into cloves for propagation. Some cloves are much smaller and are called corms, which grow on the outside of the bulb. If you plant these corms, they will produce a non-blooming plant in the first year with a solid bulb or single large clove. In the second year, the clove will begin to separate into multiple cloves, so don't ignore the corms. It may take two years, but eventually you will get a good head of elephant garlic.

Caring for and Harvesting Elephant Garlic

Once planted, elephant garlic care is pretty simple. The plant does not have to be divided or harvested each year, but rather can be left alone where it will spread into a clump of multiple flowering heads. These clumps can be left as ornamentals and as deterrents to pests such as aphids, but will eventually become overcrowded, resulting in stunted growth. Water the elephant garlic when first planted and regularly in the spring with 1 inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week. Water the plants in the morning so the soil dries by nightfall to discourage diseases. Stop watering when the garlic's leaves start drying out, which is an indication it's harvest time. Elephant garlic should be ready to pick when the leaves are bent over and dying back -- about 90 days after planting. When half of the leaves have died back, loosen the soil around the bulb with a trowel. You can also top off the immature plant tops (scapes) when they are tender prior to blooming. This will direct more of the plant's energy into creating large bulbs.

Elephant Garlic Uses

Scapes can be pickled, fermented, stir fried, etc. and even frozen in a resealable bag, raw, for up to a year. The bulb itself can be used just as regular garlic, albeit with a milder flavor. The entire bulb can be roasted whole and used as a spread on bread. It can be sautéed, sliced, eaten raw, or minced. Drying the bulb out in a cool, dry basement for a few months will extend the life of the garlic and induce a fuller flavor. Hang the bulbs to dry and store for up to ten months.

Now that you have successfully grown and harvested your garlic, it is time to decide how to store your aromatic crop. The best way to store garlic depends on how you intend to use it. Continue reading to learn more about how to store fresh picked garlic from your garden, including garlic storage before planting more next year.

How to Store Garlic

There are a number of methods for storing garlic from the garden. Once harvested, you'll need to decide how to store garlic based on your preferences and what you plan on doing with your crop.

Storing Garlic at Room Temperature

Spread some newspapers out in a location away from sunlight and in a cool, well-ventilated area. Allow the garlic to dry for at least two weeks, in a mesh bag or airy container, until the skins become paper like. This air-dry storage method preserves garlic for five to eight months.

How to Store Garlic by Freezing

Frozen garlic is perfect for soups and stews, and can be achieved one of three ways:

• Chop garlic and wrap tightly in freezer wrap. Break or grate off as needed.
• Leave garlic unpeeled and freeze, removing cloves as needed.
• Freeze garlic by blending some garlic cloves with oil in a blender using two parts olive oil to one part garlic. Scrape out what is needed.

How to Store Fresh Picked Garlic by Drying

Garlic must be fresh, firm, and bruise-free to dry using heat. Separate and peel cloves and cut lengthwise. Dry cloves at 140 degrees F. (60 C.) for two hours and then at 130 degrees F. (54 C.) until dry. When garlic is crisp, it is ready. You can make garlic powder from fresh, dried garlic by blending until fine. To make garlic salt, you can add four parts sea salt to one part garlic salt and blend for a few seconds.

Storing Garlic in Vinegar or Wine

Peeled cloves can be stored in vinegar and wine by submerging them and storing in the refrigerator. Use garlic as long as there is no mold growth or surface yeast in the wine or vinegar. Do not store on the counter, as mold will develop.

Garlic Storage Before Planting

If you want to keep some of your harvest for planting next season, just harvest as usual and store in a cool, dark, well-ventilated spot. Now that you know how to store fresh picked garlic from the garden, you can decide the best way to store garlic based on your individual needs.

Garlic scapes are one of those little surprises in the garden that many beginners don’t expect. If you’ve planted hardneck garlic, you’ll notice these curly green stems in late spring, twisting and looping above the leaves. Gardeners often see them as a bonus harvest – an extra, tasty crop with lots of culinary uses.

Scapes are a key part of the garlic cycle, appearing when the plant is nearly ready to put its energy into flowering. If you’re learning how to grow garlic, then knowing what to do with these shoots will help you get the most out of your plants. You can decide whether you cut them for larger bulbs, leave them for garlic bulbils, or cook them straight from the garden. Some gardeners treat them as a delicacy – and once you taste them, you’ll see why.

The first time you grow garlic, you might not know when to expect scapes, or even what to do when they show up. Don’t worry – they’re simple to manage once you know a few tips.

What Are Garlic Scapes?

Garlic scapes are the flowering stalks that grow from hardneck garlic plants. Unlike the leaves, they are round, firm, and curl into spirals as they lengthen. You’ll see them appear in late spring to early summer, usually a few weeks before the bulbs are ready to harvest. Left alone, scapes will eventually straighten and produce small bulblets (called bulbils) at the top, which can be used for propagation but take years to mature.

Bear in mind you won’t find scapes on softneck or elephant garlic – only hardneck types of garlic will grow them.

Why Do Gardeners Cut Garlic Scapes?

Most gardeners cut garlic scapes because leaving them in place diverts energy into flowering rather than bulb growth. By removing the scapes, the plant redirects that energy back into the bulb underground, which usually means larger, plumper cloves. Cutting scapes also gives you a supplementary harvest weeks before the bulbs are ready.

That said, you don’t have to cut them if you’re curious about how to propagate garlic from bulbils or want to experiment with saving garlic seeds for growing. Some growers like to leave a few plants untouched just to see the flowers develop. But for most gardeners, cutting is the preferred option to improve yield and get that bonus crop.

When to Harvest Garlic Scapes

Scapes are best harvested when they are still tender and have curled once or twice. At this stage, the texture is crisp but not woody, and the flavor is pleasantly garlicky without being overpowering. If you wait too long, the stems will toughen, making them chewy rather than tender.

The timing depends on your climate. In most areas, scapes are ready to harvest in late spring – often May to June, depending on your USDA hardiness zone and the planting time. In cooler northern gardens, they may come a little later, while in warm regions, they can appear earlier.

• Zones 3 to 5: Mid to late June
• Zones 6 to 7: Early to mid June
• Zones 8 to 9: Late May to early June

You can better anticipate the harvest if you make a note of your planting date, check the suggested days to maturity, then work it out on the calendar. You can expect scapes about three to four weeks before it's time for harvesting garlic.

How to Harvest Garlic Scapes

Harvesting scapes is simple. Collect the scapes as soon as they curl once or twice, and try to harvest in the morning when the plants are crisp and cool. It's important to use clean garden shears or a sharp knife, like Fiskars' Folding Knife for Produce Harvesting, available on Amazon. Never tug or pull the scapes – you risk damaging the stem and bulb below. Cut the stalk low on the plant, just above the top leaf.

After cutting the scapes, the main bulbs will continue to swell until harvest.

How to Use Garlic Scapes in the Kitchen

The tender stalks may be used in stir fries and soups, and they’re also wonderful grilled or roasted whole with a little oil and salt until lightly charred. Many gardeners blend garlic scapes into pesto or sauces.

The flavor is milder than a garlic clove – more like a mix between garlic, green onion, and chives. That means you can chop them finely and use them just as you would chives, sprinkled over salads, stirred into scrambled eggs, or added as a garnish for soups.

Garlic scapes also work well sliced into omelets, tossed into pasta dishes, or sautéed quickly with butter. Some cooks enjoy pickling them for a tangy side dish. Their versatility is one reason so many gardeners look forward to this bonus harvest.

Fresh scapes keep for a couple of weeks in the refrigerator, especially if wrapped in a damp towel or placed in a perforated bag, like these Earthwise Reusable Mesh Produce Bags from Amazon. For longer storage, you can freeze scapes. Blanch them quickly, cool, and then freeze for use later in the year.

Once in awhile someone wonders how to grow garlic from seed. While growing garlic is easy, there's no sure way to do so using garlic seed. Garlic is typically grown from cloves, or occasionally bulbils.

About Garlic Seed Propagation

Although you may see or hear it referred to as seed, seed garlic, or even seed stock, the truth is garlic doesn't usually set true seed, and on those rare occasions when it does, garlic seed resembles the small, black seeds of onions. The flowers of garlic plants usually fade long before producing any seed. Of course, plants produced using garlic seed propagation are not likely to grow anyway and those few that do will take years to produce any garlic. Occasionally, topsets (or flower stalks) can be removed and used to increase seed stock, as some varieties may stimulate seed production. For the most part, garlic is reproduced and grown from cloves. Garlic seed propagation depends mainly on the variety used and the climate where it is grown.

• Hardneck varieties such as Purple Stripe produce flower stalks and are usually well adapted to cooler climates. Hardneck garlic has a slightly shorter shelf life, from five to seven months, while softneck varieties can be stored for up to nine months.
• Softneck garlic, like artichoke, don't normally produce flower stalks, however, climate can be a factor as to whether or not this actually happens. Although some types of softneck garlic are suitable for cool climates, most do better in warmer environments. Your best chance for garlic seed propagation to be successful is to grow several varieties.

How to Grow Seed Garlic

Garlic can be grown easily, and again, it is typically grown from cloves, not garlic seed. In the rare instances you do get those true black seeds, they should be planted much like you would with onion seeds. Garlic grows best in loose, well-drained soil that's been amended with organic matter. Like many bulbs, "seed" garlic requires a cold period for healthy growth. You can plant garlic cloves anytime in autumn, provided it's early enough for them to build strong roots systems and the soil is still manageable. Separate the cloves just prior to planting and locate a sunny area to grow them in. Plant the cloves with the point facing upward about 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) deep and spacing about 6 inches (15 cm.). Apply a generous amount of mulch to help protect their shallow roots over winter. This can be removed in early spring once the new growth is ready to emerge and the threat of freezing has ceased. During its growing season, garlic requires frequent watering and occasional fertilizing. The plants can be harvested in late summer. Dig up the garlic plants and bundle them together (about six to eight plants) for drying. Hang them in a well-ventilated area for about three to four weeks.

Homegrown garlic is such a luxury for cooks who love fresh ingredients. If you’ve ever wondered how to grow garlic, you’ll be pleased to know it’s one of the easiest crops to master. Just plant a few cloves into prepared soil and, with a little patience, you’ll be rewarded with plump, flavorful bulbs that transform your cooking.

The plants ask for little space in the garden, but give so much back: homegrown cloves are infinitely juicier and sweeter when roasted than store-bought, while a braid of softneck garlic hanging in the kitchen is a source of great pride. Hardneck types even offer a bonus spring crop of tender garlic scapes, so harvesting begins months before the bulbs are lifted.

Garlic fits every kind of gardener – from beginners just starting a vegetable garden to seasoned cooks growing for improved flavor and freshness. The trick lies in choosing a type suited to your weather: softneck for gentle winters, hardneck for colder ground. The rest is simply good soil and a little care – with just a few small decisions making all the difference to bulb size and flavor.

Quick Garlic Facts

Choosing the Right Type of Garlic

Not all garlic is the same. It's important to choose varieties that are compatible with your climate and how you want to use them. The main types of garlic are hardneck, softneck, and elephant garlic – each has its own strengths and, except for hardiness, it is a matter of taste as to which variety you choose.

Hardneck garlic (Allium sativum var. ophioscorodon) is the best choice for cold climates, thriving in USDA Zones 3 to 6. It produces fewer but larger cloves around a firm central stem. The flavor is strong and complex, leading it to be often described as the “true gourmet” garlic. In late spring, hardnecks send up garlic scapes, edible curling flower stems, which have a fresh, mild garlic taste. Hardnecks don’t store as long as softnecks – usually three to five months – but their flavor is superior. The best hardneck garlic varieties to grow include Chesnok Red, Rocambole, German White, Purple Stripe, and Porcelain.​

Softneck garlic (Allium sativum var. sativum) is the kind most often found at the grocery store. It prefers mild winters and is best suited to USDA Zones 7 to 10. Softneck varieties form multiple small cloves per bulb and store exceptionally well – six to eight months or even more when cured properly. Softnecks don’t produce scapes and have flexible stems, which can be braided for an attractive decoration. The flavor of softnecks is milder, but they develop richness as they cure. Good softneck varieties to grow are Inchelium Red, Creole, Italian Purple, and Lorz Italian.

Elephant garlic (Allium ampeloprasum var. ampeloprasum) is not a true garlic but instead a close relative of the leek. It produces huge bulbs with a mild, slightly sweet flavor and tolerates a wide range of climates (roughly Zones 4 to 9). Each bulb has just a few very large cloves, which look impressive but are less pungent than true garlic. Grow elephant garlic for its size, planting adaptability, or gentle taste in roasted dishes.

Planting Garlic

While it's possible to plant store‑bought garlic, for the best results, purchase certified seed garlic from a reputable supplier – Burpee stocks a wide range of garlic. Choose firm, heavy bulbs and avoid any that are soft or musty.

If you want to experiment with growing grocery-store garlic, plant a small test patch alongside seed garlic so you can compare performance.

When to Plant Garlic

It's essential to know when to plant garlic in your zone, as it varies by climate. The bulbs require cool temperatures to establish, so in a cold-winter zone, fall is the best time to plant garlic – ideally four to six weeks before you expect the ground to freeze. Around Halloween is commonly known as a good time. If you're wondering whether it's too late to plant, let seasonal cues be your guide. Soil should be workable and drain freely.

While most growers need to plant garlic in the fall, those in milder climate zones can continue to plant garlic through winter up until February. Plant when nights are consistently cool and days sit in the 50 to 60 °F (10 to 16 °C) range.

Whenever you plant, it's a good idea to mark the planting day on a tag to help you track feeding and watering come spring.

Best Soil for Garlic

Garlic prefers loose, well-draining soil – a loam or sandy loam soil works best. Good soil structure and drainage are key to preventing bulb rot and encouraging strong root growth. You can improve the structure of heavy or tired ground by mixing in organic matter such as compost or well-aged manure.

Soil pH also matters and should be between 6.0 and 7.0. Use a testing kit, like the MySoil Test Kit, available on Amazon, which, in addition to pH, analyzes the nutrients in the soil.

Where soil is too acidic to grow garlic, it can be amended by adding lime, like this Earth Science Fast-Acting Lime on Amazon. If you need to make soil more acidic, then mix in a good amount of compost and mulch that is high in acidity, like pine needles and oak leaves.

At the time of planting, dig in two tablespoons of 10-10-10 fertilizer, fish meal, or bone meal below where the garlic clove will sit.

Light Requirements for Garlic

Garlic plants appreciate full sun. Choose a spot where they receive at least six hours of direct light each day. A sunny, open position helps bulbs mature evenly and keeps foliage lush and disease-free.

It is possible to grow garlic in partial shade, but it won't perform as well, and bulbs will be smaller. Though not a true garlic, elephant garlic is a better option for part shade. In full shade areas, wild garlic can be grown (for its leaves rather than bulbs) as it is a woodland plant. But bear in mind it can be invasive in gardens, so restrict it to containers or as a foraging crop.

How to Plant Garlic – Step by Step

Be sure to give your garlic plants plenty of room to grow. In well-draining soil, garlic has been known to develop root systems up to 3 feet (0.9 m) deep, so a raised bed or container should be at least 1 foot (30 cm) tall.

1. Prep the bed or container: Start by amending the soil as required, adding a light application of fertilizer.
2. Lay out your rows: Mark rows 12 to 18 inches (30 to 46 cm) apart so plants have room to breathe and you can weed and water easily.
3. Set spacing within the row: For most varieties, space cloves 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) apart. If you’re aiming for larger bulbs, widen spacing to 6 to 12 inches (15 to 31 cm).
4. Plant at the right depth: Make holes 2 inches (5 cm) deep.
5. Position each clove correctly: Place cloves with the pointy end up and the fat root end down.
6. Backfill and firm soil: Cover the cloves with soil and press lightly so there are no big air gaps.
7. Water and mulch: Water enough to moisten the soil evenly to clove depth, but don’t soak it, then spread a light mulch to buffer winter temperature swings and suppress weeds.

How to Care for Garlic

Garlic is a low-maintenance plant, but it’s not entirely plant-and-forget. Like most crops in the garden, a little attention pays off, but give it a bit here or there rather than constant fussing. Water when the soil dries, feed to encourage strong growth, and keep a watchful eye for weeds or pests.

How Often to Water Garlic

Water garlic plants during dry spells, but never forget that garlic dislikes soggy conditions. Follow this seasonal advice:

• Fall and winter: Only water if the weather is unusually dry.
• Spring: Keep the soil evenly moist – never sodden, never bone dry. Once or twice a week is usually enough, giving around 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water in total, rain included.
• Summer: Reduce watering in warmer months, as the plant tops begin to yellow and the outer garlic skins dry down.

Fertilizing Garlic

Garlic is a heavy feeder over its long growing season. Before planting in the fall, amend your soil with well-rotted manure or compost (jump to Best Soil for Garlic). You can also work in a balanced granular fertilizer or blood meal to help establish strong roots. This Gardenwise 10-10-10 plant fertilizer, available from Amazon, is a slow-release formula that will ensure a steady supply of nutrients.

Resume fertilizing garlic in early spring when shoots emerge. The focus now is on boosting nitrogen, which drives the leafy growth that fuels bulb development. Apply a high-nitrogen feed like liquid seaweed, fish emulsion, or a blood meal side-dressing every three to four weeks.

It's critical to stop feeding garlic by late spring (around the end of May), or when hardneck varieties produce scapes. Too much late nitrogen can stunt bulb size and cause soft bulbs that won't store well.

Mulching Garlic

Garlic plants do not compete well with weeds, so mulching makes life much easier. A thick blanket of straw, chopped leaves, or clean hay works well, holding moisture in the soil and blocking light from weed seedlings.

Spread mulch right after planting in fall to protect cloves through freeze-thaw cycles, then top it up in late winter if it thins or blows away. As spring growth begins, check that the shoots can push through easily and loosen any matted areas so air and water can move freely.

Leave the mulch in place through the growing season and only pull it back slightly when you begin to harvest, giving the bulbs room to dry and cure in the soil.

Pruning Garlic

Hardneck garlic sends up tall, curling flower stems in late spring, known as garlic scapes. Removing these stems once they’ve made a full curl keeps the plant’s energy focused on plumping the bulbs – and you get a bonus crop in the process. Scapes are tender and aromatic, with a flavor somewhere between garlic and chives.

Softneck varieties don’t produce true scapes, but you can harvest a few young green leaves early in the season if you wish. Take just one or two per plant and leave the rest to keep feeding the bulbs beneath.

Harvesting Garlic

Begin to check for mature cloves around mid‑summer, though the best time for harvesting garlic can shift a little depending on climate and planting date.

The clearest sign is in the leaves: when the lower third of the foliage has turned brown and dry, while the upper leaves remain mostly green, the bulbs are close to ready. Don’t wait until the tops are completely brown – by then, the skin around each clove may have begun to split.

Start by test-digging one bulb to check for a strong covering of dry, papery skin and plump, well-defined cloves. Use a hand fork or trowel to gently loosen the soil before lifting; tugging by the leaves can bruise or break the stems. Choose a dry day if you can, as damp soil can cling to the bulbs and slow curing.

Once the balance of leaves looks right and the bulbs feel full, lift the rest carefully, shake off loose soil, and lay them in a single layer to begin curing.

Too Early or Too Late?

If harvested too early, garlic bulbs will be small, soft, and wrapped in skins that slip away easily. They won’t store well and are best eaten straight away. If left too long, the cloves begin to separate and the outer skins split, making the bulbs harder to cure and more likely to rot in storage. The sweet spot lies in catching them just as the lower leaves brown but before the top growth completely fades.

Garlic Care Calendar

Curing and Storing Garlic

Freshly harvested garlic needs time to cure so the skins dry and seal for long keeping. Spread the bulbs in a single layer somewhere dry, shaded, and airy – a shed or covered bench is ideal. Leave the plants untrimmed while they dry to avoid rot.

After two to three weeks of curing, the skins will feel papery and the necks firm. At this stage, snip the roots to about half an inch (1 cm) and trim the stems to an inch (2.5 cm). If harvesting softneck varieties, you can braid the leaves for hanging.

Store cured garlic bulbs in a cool, dry, well-ventilated spot such as a pantry or mesh bag, like these Reusable Garlic Storage Bags from the Organic Cotton Mart Store via Amazon. Never store garlic in the fridge, as it can trigger sprouting. Properly cured garlic keeps for five to eight months, sometimes longer for softneck varieties.

For longer keeping, you can freeze, dry, or pickle cloves, or use them to flavor oils and vinegars. And don’t forget to save a few of your biggest, healthiest bulbs – you can use these to start a fresh crop next season.

Propagating Garlic

One of the joys of growing garlic is that it’s easy to propagate. Instead of buying new seed garlic each year, you can keep your best bulbs and plant the cloves for the next crop. Garlic doesn’t reproduce in the same way as most other vegetables, but it grows reliably from cloves and, with a bit more patience, from bulbils. True seed is possible but rarely worth the long wait.

Propagating garlic from cloves is by far the simplest and quickest method. Each clove inside a bulb can become a new plant. Separate the bulb carefully into individual cloves, keeping their papery skins intact, and replant the biggest, firmest ones in fall – or late winter in mild climates.

Growing garlic bulbils can be an option for hardneck garlic. These are the small seed-like bulbs that grow at the tips of garlic scapes. Collect them once the heads begin to dry and plant into well-drained soil in fall. Bulbils take longer to reach full size – they form small single “rounds” in their first season and full bulbs in their second – but they’re naturally disease-free and mean you don't need to sacrifice whole bulbs.

Garlic seed growing is occasionally possible. Sometimes, hardneck garlic will produce viable true seed after flowering. It can be sown in pots or trays and raised much like onion seed, but takes several years to form bulbs. Unless you enjoy experimenting or hope you create your own variety, it's not a practical method for most gardeners.

Garlic Problems

Garlic is a reliable crop not prone to problems, but issues with weather, soil, or timing can cause disappointment. Spotting the signs early – such as yellowing leaves or drooping plants – makes all the difference. Here are the most common garlic problems and diseases to watch for:

• Yellowing leaves are most often caused by watering issues or a nitrogen deficiency. Avoid the issue by keeping the soil evenly moist (never soggy) and feed plants with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer in early spring. Bear in mind that yellowing can also appear naturally as bulbs mature, but if it happens too soon then it suggests a problem.
• Drooping or wilting plants is a sign of heat stress or root damage. If garlic is falling over, check the soil isn't compacted or waterlogged, and loosen it if needed. In hot weather, applying a light layer of mulch helps maintain steady temperatures and moisture levels.
• Garlic not forming cloves is a common frustration, usually caused by late planting, too much shade, or being fed excessive nitrogen after spring.
• Flowers on garlic plants happen naturally in hardneck types as they produce scapes. Remove them when they curl to keep the plant's energy focused on bulb growth. If softneck garlic starts to flower, it’s often a sign of heat stress or irregular watering.
• Allium white rot is a serious fungal disease that causes yellowing, wilting, and white, cottony mold around the base of the plant. Infected bulbs often rot and collapse. White rot sclerotia can persist in soil for decades, so remove affected plants immediately and avoid replanting alliums in affected beds.”
• Fusarium basal rot is another soil-borne fungus that causes the base of the bulb to turn brown and roots to die back. It spreads in poorly drained or compacted soil, so good crop rotation and drainage are key to prevention.
• Rust is a fungal infection encouraged by damp conditions and poor airflow. It's indicated by orange pustules on leaves. Remove infected foliage and, in the future, ensure plants are well-spaced and grown in open sun.
• Garlic pests are few, but include onion thrips and nematodes. Tiny thrips can cause silver streaks or speckling on leaves; control them with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Stem and bulb nematodes cause swollen, spongy bulbs – prevention is best, through crop rotation and planting clean seed garlic.
• Moldy or soft bulbs in storage are usually caused by curing bulbs in damp air or storing them in humid spaces. Always cure garlic thoroughly in a dry, ventilated area and store in mesh bags, never sealed containers or the fridge.

Growing Garlic in Containers

Garlic grows well in containers, as long as they're deep enough to accommodate the roots. Choose a container at least 12 inches (30 cm) deep with several drainage holes, and fill it with loose, loamy compost mixed with grit for aeration.

When planting garlic in containers, space cloves 4 inches (10 cm) apart and plant 2 inches (5 cm) deep, pointy end up. Position pots in a sunny position and water evenly through spring.

In colder regions, protect bulbs from freezing by moving pots against a wall or wrapping them in horticultural fleece, like this Valibe Blanket Plant Cover from Amazon.

Growing Garlic Indoors

It is possible to grow garlic indoors, though it isn't a common choice since bulbs take many months to mature. For indoor bulb attempts, pre-chill cloves for 6 to 8 weeks at about 40 °F (4 °C) in a paper bag to mimic winter chill. This short chilling period is very different from long-term storage, where refrigeration is not advised. Position containers in a sunny spot and only water when the potting mix feels dry to the touch.

Rather than growing bulbs, a better option is to grow garlic greens for a quick, flavorful harvest. Simply plant sprouting cloves in a pot of moist compost, keep them on a sunny windowsill, and water lightly when the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil feels dry. Within three to four weeks, you’ll have tender shoots that you can snip like chives. Use them in salads, omelets, or as a garnish.

Companion Planting Garlic

Garlic is a helpful neighbor in the garden. Its scent confuses and repels aphids, spider mites, and other pests, making it an excellent companion for crops like lettuce, carrots, peppers, strawberries, and cruciferous vegetables such as cabbage, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, collard greens, or kale. Plant it near roses, tomatoes, or fruit trees to discourage insects naturally.

Bad garlic companion plants include asparagus, peas, beans, sage, and parsley, which can struggle beside its strong chemistry.

Frequently Asked Questions

Garlic Quiz

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Garlic Growing Essentials

• Start with the best seed garlic – Burpee stocks a myriad of flavorful varieties. 
• Test your soil will give garlic the best possible start with the MySoil Test Kit, available on Amazon.
• Fertilize garlic with a slow-release formula, like Gardenwise 10-10-10 plant fertilizer, from Amazon.
• When harvesting garlic, using a broad fork, like this Vevor design on Amazon, makes the job easier without damaging bulbs.
• Store cured bulbs in these Reusable Garlic Storage Bags from the Organic Cotton Mart Store via Amazon.

So you planted garlic in the garden, you let it grow all year, and now you are wondering when to harvest garlic. If you dig it up too soon, the bulbs will be teeny, but if you dig it up too late the bulbs will be split and no good for eating. Knowing when to harvest garlic is important for getting the best-tasting bulbs to use in your kitchen. With a few basic vegetable harvesting guidelines and some expert tips, you'll be enjoying homegrown garlic in no time.

When to Harvest Garlic

The easiest way to know when to harvest garlic is simply to look at the leaves. When the leaves are one-third brown, you'll need to start testing the bulbs to see if they are the proper size. This is easy to do.

Simply loosen the dirt above one or two garlic bulbs and get an idea of their size while still keeping them in the ground. If they look large enough, then you're ready to make your garden garlic harvest. If they're still too small, then your garlic will need to grow a bit more.

You don't want to wait too long, though. Once the leaves get to be one-half to two-thirds brown, you should harvest the garlic regardless of size. Putting off harvesting garlic until after the leaves are completely brown will only result in an inedible bulb.

Your garden garlic harvest will normally happen some time in July or August if you are in a climate that is ideal for garlic growth. In warmer climates, you can expect to be harvesting garlic as early as spring, though only certain garlic varieties will perform well in warm climates.

How to Harvest Garlic

Now that you know when to harvest garlic, you need to know how to harvest garlic. While it may seem like harvesting garlic is just a matter of digging the bulbs out of the ground, there are a few tips to keep in mind.

1. Dig, don't pull

When you are harvesting garlic, you need to dig it out of the ground. If you try to pull it out, you will only break the leaves off.

2. Be gentle

Freshly dug garlic bulbs will bruise easily and it is easy to accidentally slice a bulb open while digging if you aren't careful. When harvesting garlic, lift each bulb individually from the ground. Place it in a container where it won't get jostled too much.

3. Get garlic out of the sun ASAP

This sounds like advice for a garlic-hating vampire, but these edible bulbs don't like sun either. Garlic will blanch and burn in the sun. Put the freshly dug, unwashed bulbs in a dark, dry place as soon as possible.

Now you know when to harvest garlic and how to harvest garlic. Really, the only thing left to do is eat your garlic harvest.

Garlic is a bulb and because it is a bulb, most garlic varieties need to have a certain amount of cold weather to form the tasty bulbs we like to eat. For gardeners in warmer climates, this can be a frustrating fact, but not one that needs to keep them from growing garlic in the garden. A little knowledge about garlic and garlic varieties is all it takes to know how to grow garlic successfully in warmer climates.

Garlic Varieties

Gardeners in warmer climates, USDA zones 7 through 9, will have a difficult time growing garlic in the garden from just any garlic varieties. Most likely you will want to look for some of the gourmet or heirloom cultivars that grow well in warmer weather. These cultivars include:

• Creoles
• Asiatic
• Hardnecks
• Marbled Purple Stripe

These cultivars may not be available at your local garden center but can be found online at many reputable online garlic dealers.

How to Plant Garlic

When and how to plant garlic in warmer climates is a bit different than in cooler climates. For one, you can plant the garlic later and for two, you can harvest it sooner. Plan to plant your garlic in late October through early December. When you plant your garlic, what you will be doing is growing garlic from cloves, so take one clove off the bulb and plant it into the prepared bed. Remember, just like flower bulbs, the pointy end of the clove goes up. You will want to plant the garlic clove about 8 to 10 inches (20-25 cm.) down in the dirt. Space them about 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm.) apart.

How Does Garlic Grow in the Winter?

In warmer climates you can expect to see growth from your garlic all winter long. This will appear in the form of garlic greens coming from the clove. In cooler climates, the greens don't grow until spring. Don't worry about the occasional drop in temperature, as garlic and its greens are more than able to handle the cold.

When to Harvest Garlic

In late spring or early summer, your garlic plant will start to flower. Let it flower. Once the flower is dead and the leaves have browned one-half to two-thirds of the way down the stem, dig up your garlic. This should happen no later than July. Once you have harvested your garlic, you can store it and save some for growing garlic from cloves again in a few months. The mystery of how to grow garlic in warmer climates is not really a mystery at all. With the right varieties and the right planting schedule, you too can be growing garlic in the garden.