Many of us feel a little time stretched, and even the joys of gardening can’t always fit in around the edges of a busy life. So the thought of a perennial that can “do it all” while largely taking care of itself might sound like the stuff of dreams. But believe me, there really is a “set it and forget it” ground cover perennial that can smother weeds, thrive in a dry spell, and service pollinators while flowering prolifically for months. This glory bloomer is the hardy geranium family of plants (aka hardy cranesbill geraniums, or cranesbills), not to be confused with frost-tender pelargoniums.

First, a confession: of all the plants I’ve added to my garden (and there have been a few), the hardy geranium (Geranium spp.) is one that was growing in my yard when I moved in a couple of years ago. I made myself a promise that I would give my yard time to show me what it already had, before filling it with loads of easy perennials and fancy flowers. And honestly, growing hardy geraniums wasn't top of my wishlist back then. But it didn’t take long to get a sense of how fast-growing, reliable, and enthusiastic these plants are, and how long-lasting their flowering displays can be. For quick ground cover, extended blooms, and weed control, the hardy geranium does all this (and more) for the price of admission – and these rugged beauties will keep coming back in abundance year after year.

Carpeting front and back with medleys of violet, blue, and bubblegum pink, my hardy geraniums have become the summer stalwarts I never want to be without. As I write this, they are quietly filling empty patches of earth with lush, green mounds, ready to burst forth with color. Beyond the odd trim (which they seem to love, responding with even more prolific blooms), all I have to do is admire them. They are quite simply some of the hardest-working flowers I’ve ever grown, asking for little in return (apart from a little soil, and some sun). Here’s why April is the time to get them planted so you can enjoy your own easy, lovely, super-long lasting blooms.

Why Plant Hardy Geraniums Now?

Why this one, and why now, you ask? It’s all in the name, but let’s be honest – if it’s low maintenance, weed control, and sustained flower power you’re after, this is the perfect month to plant hardy geranium plants. For most growers in USDA zones 4-8, the soil is beginning to wake up but temperatures are still relatively cool in April. Hardy geraniums thrive when they can establish their root systems in moist, cool soil before the intense potential humidity and heat of summer kicks in. By planting now, plants have plenty of time to stock up on energy reserves for breathtaking perennial flowers that last from May through the first frosts of autumn.

April isn't just perfect for new cranesbill arrivals, though. It’s also the ideal time for dividing hardy geraniums you already have, so you can create even more easy color. If you have an established clump that is starting to look a little hollow in the center, now is the time to divide. Simply lift the clump with a garden fork and tease the root mass into smaller sections. Each new plantlet should have a healthy set of roots and a few green shoots. Replant these immediately with a little organic compost – so you’re doubling your border massive – or reposition them somewhere new.

Regardless of your zip code, just check the soil is workable when planting or replanting (it should crumble easily in your hand). This means delicate new roots won't suffocate and plants quickly become set-and-forget stalwarts. Make sure you plant in a spot with dappled shade if you live in the south. While many varieties love the sun, a little afternoon shade keeps foliage from scorching in peak summer temperatures.

Also, make sure you check the soil pH at the time of planting, as hardy geraniums are quicker to flourish where the soil is slightly acidic to neutral. Our team likes the Yamron 4-in-1 Soil Meter, which you can get from Amazon, for easy combined soil health checks such as moisture content and nutrient load as well as acidity levels.

Grab Your Hardy Geraniums

Choosing hardy geraniums is a joy, whether you are looking for something to quickly fill a gap in a border, or a pretty doorway container that can greet your visitors with a medley of late spring color. Before I show you how to plant in different parts of your yard, make sure you've got a couple of cranesbills to hand. These curated picks are a few favorite options you can purchase (as live pot plants or bare roots) for easy ground cover, pretty pots, and effortless planting wherever you need to cast some color.

1. Planting in Borders

When it comes to border planting, hardy geraniums can blend into a broad variety of ornamental themes and arrangements. They have a unique ability to knit together disparate groups of plants, softening the edges between tall, structural shrubs and smaller bedding favorites. But their true superpower in a border is as a living mulch. Cranesbill hardy geranium plants like G. macrorrhizum create a thick canopy that shades the soil, suppressing weed germination, and retaining precious moisture. Planting cranesbills now ensures that by June, you’ll have a lush green carpet that saves you hours of weeding.

If you’re planting in a sunny border, super-violet classic 'Rozanne' and pastel-pretty 'Johnson’s Blue' are lovely choices, and ‘Album’ gives your borders a shimmering mass of bright white petal power. If your border sits under the canopy of a tree, grow more shade tolerant varieties like pink ‘Biokovo’ and sultry purple ‘Raven’ hardy geraniums. When planting, aim for a naturalist approach that groups your plants in sets of three or five, and spacing them 12-18 inches (25-45cm) apart. This might look a little sparse initially, but these enthusiastic growers will quickly bridge the gaps, creating a seamless flow of foliage and flowers.

While hardy geraniums aren't fussy, they do appreciate a little organic matter at the time of planting. Mix a few handfuls of well-rotted compost into the planting hole to improve drainage. This is especially important if you’re working with heavy clay. And even though these are easygoing plants, I’d be tempted to sprinkle a handful of fish blood and bone into the planting hole to help kickstart root development. You can buy Down to Earth’s All Natural Fertilizer Organic Fish Bone Meal from Amazon for a gentle, slow-release sprinkle that supports prolific flowering. Don’t forget to give them a deep soak. Yes, they are drought-tolerant once established, but that initial drench sets the stage for a summer-long floral marathon.

2. Making Easy Containers

Hardy geraniums may boss an open border with ease, but they also make lovely flowering perennials for pots. They lend themselves to mixed palettes with annuals and other perennials, and can work very well as the solo performer in a large tub on a patio or by the door. Unlike annual pelargoniums that you need to overwinter indoors (or surrender with the frost), a potted hardy geranium can stay outside and just gets better with age. And where your garden soil is naturally heavy, containers give you a chance to fully control the growing environment.

If you’re keen for your hardy geranium plant to gently tumble over the rim of the pot in a spiller style, look for compact or mounded varieties. I’m fond of pinky lilac 'Ballerina' (G. cinereum), which produces a mass of trembling dusky petals with striking purple streaks. For a shock of blue, 'Orion' offers some of the largest petals in the geranium family. When planting in April, just make sure the pot has ample drainage holes. A potting mix blended with a little grit or perlite, such as Sta-Green Organic Perlite from Lowe’s, ensures the roots never sit in stagnant water.

Caring for potted geraniums is easy. They just rely on you a little more for nutrients. Apply a liquid fertilizer every few weeks from late spring through August to provide the energy needed for constant bud production. A fish emulsion feed or diluted seaweed is a brilliant little extra. Try a little sprinkle of Maxicrop Soluble Seaweed Powder from Amazon, which is packed with micronutrients. If your plant starts to look a little leggy midsummer, trimming it back by half will encourage a fresh flush of foliage and a second wave of color. That’s all the work that’s required, promise!

3. Adding as Pathway Edging

I’m all for a spot of whimsy (ask around), and while pathways clearly have a practical purpose, there’s nothing to say they can’t be edged in soft, pillowing mounds of purple and pink – I’m not immune, I’ll admit it. I love a garden path that feels soft, contoured and a teensy bit fluffy around the edges. By planting hardy geraniums along walkways this month, you’re creating a living fringe to edge and spill over the hard lines of stone, brick, or concrete. This doesn't just look beautiful, it's a lively landscaping trick. Using low-growing hardy geraniums as an edging plant helps to drive the flow of the garden, while protecting the soil from compaction and runoff.

When selecting varieties for pathways, you want plants that are compact enough to “stay in their lane” and tough enough to handle the occasional stray footstep. 'Biokovo' is a smashing option, not just for its white-and-pink blooms, but also because of its ginger scent, which is released when you brush past it. Or, for a denser, mat-forming look, 'Karmina' (G. x cantabrigiense) creates a rug of deep-pink flowers that stabilizes the soil, making it an excellent choice for sloped pathways. Because of their fibrous root system, hardy geraniums are great on inclines.

Planting along a path in April just requires a little bit of future-thinking. It’s tempting to plant right against the edge of the stone for immediate impact, but remember these plants will expand. Plant 6-8 inches (15-20cm) back from the line. This gives the plants room to grow into their natural mounding shape without becoming a trip hazard. Don't be afraid to mix and match. Alternating different shades of pink and purple creates a drift effect that looks far more organic (and professional) than one repeating tone, and can make your yard look a little bigger.

Despite what I just said about their resilience, avoid planting hardy geraniums in areas where they will be constantly stepped on – they can take the odd wayward step, but they aren't lawn replacements. For a creative, organic look, try tucking a few smaller divisions into the gaps between large steppers on a path. They will happily colonize the cracks and soften the whole look.

Hardy Geranium Planting Partners

For the ultimate in “set and forget” planting, hardy geraniums are both very versatile in mixed plantings and actively supportive of other plants, bringing out the best in surrounding flowers and foliage. Maybe it’s because of their natural ability to reach out, but they knit together surrounding plants in a very pleasing way. Because they have a mounded, spreading habit, they are especially beneficial when paired with plants that offer a different architecture, specifically height and structure.

For a modern garden look, contrast your soft-shaped cranesbill with spiky partners. Pairing the billowy clouds of 'Rozanne' with the architectural spikes of 'Caradonna' salvia or 'Blue Fortune' agastache or ‘Walker’s Low’ nepeta creates a clean, intentional look that thrives from June through September. You can buy ‘Walker’s Low’ Nepeta from Fast Growing Trees.

If you prefer the romantic, overflowing feel of a cottage garden, aim for a softer palette. One of the most iconic pairings is with lady’s mantle (Alchemilla mollis). The lime-green, frothy flowers act as a perfect foil for the violet tones of the geranium. You can buy Hirt’s Gardens’ Alchemilla from Walmart as live plants. You can also layer in 'Munstead' lavender or 'Becky' shasta daisies for a timeless fee. Combining plants with similar light and water requirements keeps everything suitably low-maintenance while looking high-effort. Try these palettes for easy color:

• Purple & Gold: Pair blue-toned purple geraniums like 'Johnson’s Blue' with bright yellow 'Moonshine' yarrow. These are complementary colors on the wheel, making each look more vibrant, creating a real power dynamic and visual movement.
• Purple & Orange: For a high-energy look, tuck 'Orange Rocket' berberis or Asclepias tuberosa behind a purple geranium. The contrast is deeply satisfying and energizing.
• Purple & Silver: Combine pale purple cranesbills with the silvery foliage of 'Silver Mound' artemisia or lamb’s ears (Stachys byzantina). This palette practically glows at dusk and looks lovely as part of a moon garden planting.
• Purple & Purple: For a regal drench, create a monochromatic look by layering different shades of violet. Combine 'Raven' geraniums with deep purple 'May Night' salvia and dark-leaved coral bells like ‘Forever Purple’ Heuchera from Nature Hills for a sophisticated, moody vibe.

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Introducing native wildflowers in the home landscape has many benefits. One example is the sticky purple geranium (Geranium viscosissimum), a pretty wildflower that’s praised for its carefree growth habit and strong appeal to pollinators.

While this geranium species is most commonly found growing in woodlands and meadows, it is equally at home in containers and cultivated flower beds. Let's take a look at how to grow native sticky geranium in your landscape.

Sticky Geranium Uses

Throughout the growing season, the sticky geranium’s pink flowers rise above the plant’s mounded foliage on tall stems. Blooms continue throughout the warmer months, making this geranium an ideal addition to mixed borders and naturalized wildflower patches. Though sticky geranium plants are an easy-to-grow option for the garden, be sure to consider these several details regarding their care.

Sticky Geranium Care

Sticky geranium plants are most commonly grown from seed. Before planting, each seed needs to be scarified and soaked in clean water for approximately 12-24 hours. Seeds can then be sown into trays that have been filled with a soilless potting or seed starting mix.

Established geranium plants are highly adaptable, and can tolerate a wide range of soil conditions. Provided that the beds drain well, these flowers can thrive in clay, sand, and soils with poor fertility. Though it is not required, established plants may benefit from routine deadheading of flowers throughout the season to promote the formation of new flower buds.

Size & Growth Rate

Geranium viscosissimum plants grow quickly. As perennials, these plants will return seasonally, but many gardeners outside of their native range choose to grow it as an annual. Planting annually may also help control its spread within flower beds. Sticky geranium is known to reseed generously in the garden. Fortunately, these seedlings are easy to manage and do not pose a threat to other established plants. Generally, sticky geranium plants are not considered to be an invasive species.

Water Needs

Sticky geraniums are good candidates for waterwise landscapes, as they can withstand extended periods of drought. However, occasional watering may still be needed in the home garden. This is especially true of plants grown in full sun, and geraniums grown in containers are likely to dry out much more quickly, requiring water on a weekly or biweekly basis.

Problems, Pests, & Diseases

Like many native plants, a sticky geranium seldom has issues with pests or disease. As their name would imply, these plants do have a pronounced “sticky” characteristic. Though this substance can sometimes trap small insects, it generally does not affect larger pollinators in any way. It’s a natural attribute of the plant and should not cause concern. Overwatering is among the most common causes of decline in plant health. Excess water may lead to yellowing and the development of more serious diseases like root rot and powdery mildew.

More Pollination Inspiration

• Explore flower seeds to start in March to ensure a lovely selection for you and for your local pollinators this summer!
• Keep on top of native plant ideas, landscaping trends, and ways to benefit your local pollinators by signing up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Geraniums – or pelargoniums – are those rare flowers that can bloom in three seasons in the right circumstances, budding in late spring and delighting gardeners all the way through summer and into fall. However, there are a few essential steps to keep geraniums blooming for this long.

Prized for their vibrant, pretty flowers, geraniums are popular additions to borders, patios, hanging baskets, and window boxes. Growing geraniums indoors is also possible in a conservatory or other bright room.

Usually grown as annuals, geraniums are perennials in USDA hardiness zones 10 and 11, and in cooler regions can be overwintered indoors. This makes growing geraniums in containers an ideal solution that offers the best of both worlds.

You can propagate geraniums from cuttings taken in early summer, or grow geraniums from seed, for an everlasting supply of plants.

Follow our top tips and you can enjoy a constant show of glorious flowers until late in the year.

1. Choose The Right Variety

There are a few geranium varieties to choose from, each differing in their bloom times. The four main options are:

• Zonal geraniums (Pelargonium hortorum) are named for the different color zones in their leaves. Flowers may be white, pink, salmon, or red.
• Ivy geraniums (Pelargonium peltatum) have trailing leaves and semi-double flowers in colors from white to red, and many pastel shades.
• Scented geraniums are available in multiple varieties and have enticing aromas, ranging from apples, to citrus, to roses, and even mint. Flowers are usually smaller than other geraniums.
• Regal, or Martha Washington geraniums (Pelargonium domesticum) are trailing plants with ruffled leaves. Flowers come in shades of red and purple including bright pink, burgundy, lavender, and bicolors. They are a good choice for growing indoors.

Zonal geraniums and ivy geraniums are the best choices for extended blooming times. However, you can follow these tips to prolong the life of other varieties.

Bear in mind pelargonium geraniums are a different plant genus to hardy geraniums – or cranesbill – which are among the longest-blooming perennials.

2. Deadhead Spent Blooms

Remove faded flowers promptly to encourage new blooms and maintain the plant’s appearance. Once plants have flowered, they retarget their energy towards seed production. Deadheading geraniums prevents this and forces the plant to redirect it towards producing more flowers.

Once a week, check over your geraniums for spent flowers. Deadheading should be done when temperatures are cool and plants are dry – ideally in the morning or evening, to avoid the height of the summer heat.

Hold the faded flower, and snip the stem back to the closest set of healthy leaves. Remove the plant material to avoid transference of disease.

3. Give Plants More Sun

While they will tolerate some shade, geraniums thrive in full sun, needing at least six hours of direct sunlight each day. This is essential to keep plants blooming all season.

When fall approaches and daylight decreases, reposition potted geraniums so they can get as much sunlight as possible.

4. Water Consistently – Deeply

Consistent watering is key to encouraging geraniums to keep blooming. But, don’t overdo it as overwatering can lead to root rot. Geraniums prefer soil to be a little on the dry side, and well-draining.

Check the soil moisture regularly, and water when the top 1-2 inches (2.5-5cm) feels dry. In hot weather, potted geraniums may need daily watering.

When you water, do it deeply. This will encourage plants to grow deeper roots, making them better able to withstand drought.

Mulching geraniums will enable the soil to retain more moisture, reducing watering requirements.

5. Fertilize Regularly

Fertilizing geraniums is key to keeping them blooming. Feed them every two weeks throughout the growing season with a balanced liquid fertilizer to provide vital nutrients.

As fall approaches, you can switch to a fertilizer with a higher potassium content to encourage blooming over foliage growth.

Reduce fertilizing to once a month after the summer has finished.

6. Keep Pests In Check

Keep an eye out for common garden pests, like aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies. They can impact the health and performance of plants, like geraniums, and reduce flowering rates.

Regularly inspect the undersides of leaves and use neem oil or insecticidal soap to treat any infestations.

7. Protect Geraniums From Cold Snaps

While geraniums can keep blooming through the fall, they are not frost-hardy. Even a light frost can damage the plants.

As autumn brings cooler nights, move potted plants to a more sheltered location overnight, or cover plants in borders with a frost cloth.

Fall is a good time to bring geraniums indoors for overwintering, so you can continue to enjoy their fabulous blooms until winter arrives.

Just like peanut butter and chocolate, or cheese and crackers, there’s something about growing geraniums in containers that feels like the perfect partnership. That’s not to say that geranium care is necessarily more of a struggle when your plants are growing in the ground. It’s just that container gardening gives you added scope for filling even more spaces with perennial, zonal or scented geraniums. Switching up to pots also means you have more control over growing conditions. You can relocate geraniums through the year and overwinter perennial varieties, boosting their vitality and longevity.

When growing geraniums in the ground, you need to pay close and constant attention to fluctuations in temperature, keeping a watchful eye out during extended periods of heat and potential cold snaps. While perennial geraniums can cope in hardiness zones down to USDA zone 3, they are vulnerable to frosts. Bringing potted geraniums indoors adds flexibility and security to your geranium growing. What’s more, many flowering varieties prefer the compact conditions of a well-chosen pot, responding well to the restrictive nature of container growing. So here’s how to grow geraniums in pots which, like all the best partnerships, will flourish and delight for years to come.

Selecting The Best Varieties When Growing Geraniums in Containers

When selecting container geraniums, geranium lovers face decisions regarding color, life span and often fragrance. In the simplest terms, there are annuals (broadly defined as pelargoniums) and perennial geraniums. But that doesn’t cover the scope and sensitivity of various carefully bred cultivars. Zonal geraniums (Pelargonium x hortorum) are technically pelargoniums but actually related to perennial geraniums. There are also ivy geraniums (Pelargonium peltatum), which can be grown as tender perennials. Zonal geraniums create profusions of easily identifiable floral color, while ivy types have a trailing habit.

Some ivy geraniums have been cross-bred with zonal geraniums to create calliope varieties which are more heat tolerant but only likely to survive the mildest winters. Others, like Martha Washington (or regal) geraniums, prefer cooler indoor growing. Your ability to eke a longer life out of certain geranium varieties might sometimes come down to the mildness of your region’s winters.

If you are after container geraniums as houseplants, some of the most satisfying are the scented geranium varieties (which again, are pelargoniums but can be grown as tender perennials in the right conditions). With intoxicating fragrances including chocolate, cinnamon, rose, lemon and mint, they are some of the most low-maintenance container options – as long as you give them the correct care regarding light, warmth and watering.

Choosing Containers for Geraniums

Geraniums are some of the best candidates for container gardening, inside and outdoors. They aren't too fussy and there are just a few things to bear in mind. When growing in the ground, geraniums are capable of developing deep roots. Bearing this in mind, they will do best in containers that allow their roots a little room to grow. Alongside this, however, is the paradox that they can often develop the most sustained and prolific displays of flowers in the confines of a relatively narrow space. So when deciding on the best pots for geraniums, it’s a question of balancing these two factors.

There is no specific type of container that's more likely to encourage the fastest growth or the biggest flowers. Geraniums can do equally well in plastic, terracotta, clay or glazed ceramic. However, what is absolutely critical is that your pot has adequate drainage holes for your plants. One of the key reasons geraniums can stop growing or struggle in containers is because they wind up sitting in waterlogged compost, usually due to poor drainage. Facilitate drainage by choosing a light or loamy compost. If your compost is a little on the heavy side, add a bit of coarse sand or perlite.

Caring for Geraniums in Containers

Whether you are growing geraniums in containers indoors or outside, there are a few golden rules that determine the strongest roots, bushiest foliage, lushest blooms and headiest fragrances. If you already grow geraniums in the ground outside and just wish to add a few pots to a patio display, the main areas for attention are watering, feeding and light. For indoor-based geraniums, either overwintering or growing as houseplants, you should also keep an eye on room temperature and humidity:

• Lighting Conditions: However you can manage it, try to secure a spot with access to the brightest light. Geraniums are naturally inclined to grow quickly, green up better and flower most generously wherever they can bask in the sun’s rays. For any pot-based plants that have been brought indoors to overwinter, find a window that is south or west facing. If natural light is limited, use a grow light or fluorescent light source for 12-14 hours a day.
• Temperature & Humidity: As we have already pointed out, there is huge breadth in the range of geraniums you can grow in containers. Since many are tender perennials, you’ll need to make sure daytime temperatures never dip below 65-70°F (18-21°C) during the cooler months. At night, aim for 57°F or higher (14°C). If you need to supplement your indoor environment with extra provisions at night, a horticultural fleece could help (just remember to remove it during the day). Humidity is a little trickier: too high and there is the risk of fungal infections, too low and plants might wilt. Aim for a relative 50-70% humidity level, and adjust with pebble trays or by misting as necessary.  
• Water & Fertilizer: You’ll be tempted to overcompensate with watering, thinking geraniums need more in pots. Resist this urge as much as you can. Geraniums like compost to dry out a little between watering. As mentioned, these plants hate to have wet feet and may turn up their toes if kept in chilly waterlogged compost. Water deeply once a week in spring, and more often in warmer weather. It’s also smart to add a balanced liquid fertilizer once a month. 'Use a water-soluble houseplant feed or a 5-10-5 mix every four-six weeks over the active growing season,’ says Gardening Know How’s Mary Ellen Ellis.

When and How to Plant Geraniums

Knowing how to grow geraniums in pots isn’t just about choosing the best cultivars and containers. You also have decisions to make regarding the way you plant them: by plugs, by seed, or by rooting cuttings. If you are potting geraniums you have purchased as plugs, and you intend to grow more than one plant per pot, allow 8-10in (20-25cm) between each plant. Don’t plant the root ball too deep in the pot, as this can retard plant growth. As for when to plant, wait until the last frosts have passed. You can also plant in the fall, as long as the plants will be kept in a well-regulated area.

• Starting Geraniums from Seed: Growing geraniums in pots from seed will take a long time, and there’s no way around it. However, as long as you can maintain the right temperatures, and as long as you are patient, geranium seed propagation isn’t that tricky. ‘You’ll need 8-10 weeks before the last frost date to get them started,’ says Mary Ellen Ellis. Plant seeds 2-3in (5-8cm) apart and cover with a quarter-inch of compost. Sit the pot in a tray of water, drain, then place in a propagator. Pot on to separate containers when you see the first true leaves.
• Starting Geraniums from Cuttings: You can also start geraniums as cuttings, which is often the best way to guarantee that the offspring grows true to the parent plant. It is also much quicker to grow than a plant started from seed. Take cuttings in summer, selecting 3-5in (8-12cm) lengths of stems. Remove all but the top leaves, then dip in rooting hormone and plant in compost with plenty of sand or vermiculite. You can also root cuttings in water before planting. Space cuttings a few inches apart. ‘Cover the planted cuttings with a plastic bag to regulate moisture levels as the cutting takes root,’ says Gardening Know How’s Tonya Barnett. ‘Cuttings should root in six-eight weeks.’ Repot once fresh leaves appear. 

Problems Growing Container Geraniums

As you learn how to care for geraniums in pots and follow the cultivation methods outlined above, you’ll hopefully reduce the risks of problems occurring. Geraniums are relatively low maintenance once established. The main areas where issues can crop up relate to fluctuations in light, watering or airflow. One of the key issues that can crop up involves legginess in plants. This tends to happen where geraniums have been overwatered, or where access to direct sunlight has been reduced or restricted. Overwatering can also lead to yellow leaves in the lower parts of the plant. If this happens, let the compost dry out so the plan can recover.

If you are growing geraniums in containers as houseplants, you may find that some of the same pests crop up. These include whiteflies, aphids and mealybugs. Regulating airflow and humidity levels can reduce the risks, but if you do see aphids, don’t panic. Apply short bursts of water every couple of days to curb the infestations, or add a diluted neem oil spray. Neem oil is also a good remedy for spider mite infestations, which tend to present as webbing and papery-looking leaves.

Another potential issue that might crop up with container-based plants kept in close proximity is geranium leaf rust. This foliar disease presents as small yellow circles on the undersides of leaves. You might then see orangey-brown spores and raised pustules. ‘Spores thrive in cool, damp conditions, and are prevalent in greenhouses,’ says Gardening Know How’s Liz Baessler. ‘Space plants for good airflow, and avoid splashing water on leaves. Remove infected leaves, and apply fungicide to the rest.’

Overwintering, Pruning and Repotting

Extending the life of tender potted geraniums over winter is entirely possible. You just have to decide whether you wish to keep your plant ‘awake’ or allow it to ‘sleep’ through the cooler months. To keep your geranium awake, place it in a bright, sunny position in the home and make sure you lessen your watering routine. While this option is perfectly agreeable to a geranium, you might find the alternative (sleeping) results in a more generous display of flowers the following season.

‘Sleep mode’ basically means you allow your potted geranium to become dormant. Yes, that’s right: knowing how to grow geraniums in containers is sometimes about knowing when to do nothing at all. All you have to do is place the potted geranium in a cool, dark place that won’t be exposed to frosts. Allow foliage and stem tips to shrivel and fall off. Compost needs to be just barely moist. You can leave potted geraniums this way until spring, when you can slowly introduce sunlight and warmth and resume more regular watering. ‘With the proper care in winter, you can help tender perennials survive the coolest months of the year – even outside their hardiness range,’ says Tonya Barnett.

In terms of general plant care, you may also wish to consider pruning and repotting. You won’t need to do much in the way of pruning. It’s mainly just a case of knowing how to deadhead geraniums in pots. During the flowering season, simply deadhead spent flowers to promote fresh growth. A light pruning after flowering (in the fall) is also beneficial. Pinching back a few growing tips (and leggy stems at the onset of the growing season) are also good ways to encourage a fuller, healthier plant. Hopefully, you should only need to repot every couple of years, and only then if you think compost has dried out severely or the plant itself has become pot-bound.

Frequently Asked Questions

If you want more flowers from these classic annual plants, you need to learn how to deadhead geraniums the right way. Geraniums are one of the most common annuals for summer. With their brilliant, colorful blooms, geraniums have long been a favorite of many gardeners.

There are many varieties of geraniums from which to choose. Some of the most common are zonal, ivy, and scented. But no matter what kind you grow, deadheading is key to good geranium care and is done for more than just appearances.

Deadheading prevents plants from wasting time and energy on a spent bloom and allows it to direct its efforts towards producing new buds and flowers. By removing dead flowers, you can keep geraniums blooming all summer. Plus, for those of us neatniks, deadheading is a satisfying way to return the plant back to tidy perfection. Let’s take a look at how and when to deadhead geraniums for healthy plants and the best show of blooms.

What Is Deadheading?

Deadheading is the practice of taking off spent flowers. You can deadhead many types of plants but in the case of geraniums, whose blooms are held on long stems, the process is less finicky than on tightly flowered plants.

With geraniums, the flower cluster at the top of the stem may be in various stages of freshness. Some new petals may be present while others are faded and old. You can opt to wait until all the petals are dead or take off the flower cluster when its appearance is mostly past its prime.

Some gardeners just use their fingers to pinch off the old blooms, which is handy if you are just passing through the garden. Others use scissors, pruners, or small pincers made specifically for deadheading, like these Fiskars pruning scissors from Amazon.

Do You Have to Deadhead Geraniums?

Geraniums don’t need to be deadheaded, but there are many benefits to doing so. Your plants will continue growing and producing more flowers even if you don’t prune them. But the ugly dead flowers will linger over the foliage and take away from the beauty of your summer blooming plants. When new flowers form, they will be partially hidden by the dead plant material.

Additionally, deadheading can speed up the production of more blooms and can even help prevent the spread of certain diseases that live in decaying material. So pruning geraniums is always a good idea and an easy summer gardening chore that doesn’t take much time or effort.

When to Deadhead Geraniums

There is no particular time of year when you should deadhead your geraniums. If you wish to keep a tidy appearance, check the flowers at least once a week and remove any faded blooms. This pruning schedule will encourage blooms throughout the entire summer season.

How To Deadhead Geraniums

So how do you deadhead geraniums? It’s very easy and doesn't require any special gardening tools. Unlike some plants, which are crowned with numerous flowers and must be sheared off when the blooms fade, geraniums provide you with easy to remove stalks.

Make sure your pruners, secateurs, scissors, or knife are clean and sharp to prevent injuring your plant or introducing any geranium diseases. Remove the entire flower stem down as close to the main stem of the plant as possible. If the bloom has been dead for some time, you can pull out the old stem with ease. You can also cut just above the foliage to avoid cutting the leaves, but this may leave an unattractive brown stump.

If you lack garden tools, just use your hand. Simply snap off the entire stem with the faded flower or sink your thumb and forefinger into the foliage and pinch it off. These thumb knives from Amazon make pinching off faded blooms even easier.

Frequently Asked Questions

Deadheading Must-Haves

• Consider a sharp pair of shears like the ever-popular Fiskars ⅝” Bypass Pruner from Amazon
• Protect your hands with a pair of puncture-resistant gardening gloves from Amazon
• Collect garden scraps and compostables in a lawn garden bag from Amazon

Scented geraniums are related to the typical annuals you see sold every summer in garden centers. They belong to the genus Pelargonium and include about 200 varieties. English and Dutch colonists first brought them to Europe from South Africa. 

About Scented Geranium Plants

Many people consider the various scented geranium types to be herbs. They produce flowers, but the real reason to grow them is for attractive and scented foliage. The aroma comes from oil produced at the roots of leaf hairs. Each variety has a unique smell, including aromas reminiscent of lemon, rose, mint, and even coconut. 

Scented Geranium Varieties

The options for aromas are nearly endless with these species of scented geranium: 

• P. odoratissimum. This trailing type of geranium has a delicate apple aroma. The leaves are heart-shaped and ruffled along the edges. The small flowers are white. 
• P. nervosum. This lime-scented species has light, lime-green flowers that are ruffled and round. The flowers are light purple. 
• P. tomentosum. This minty species has several cultivars. Godfreys Pride is large and trailing with a strong scent. Joy Lucille has pink and red flowers. 
• P. graveolens. With a rose aroma, this species has large, dark green leaves and pink flowers. Robers Lemon Rose smells like a combination of roses and lemons. Other cultivars combine rose with spices for a really unique aroma. 
• P. grossularioides. Bring a scent of the tropics to your patio or indoors with this geranium that smells like coconut. This is a low-growing type that better tolerates the cold than some geraniums. The flowers are small and deep pink. 
• P. crispum. This is a classic lemon-scented geranium. The leaves are small and wrinkled and the flowers purple to pink. You can find many cultivars with a lemon aroma, including Citriodorum, Lemon, and Mabel Grey.
• P. fragrans. This spicy geranium smells a lot like warming nutmeg with a hint of pine. It is a small plant with gray-green leaves. 
• P. quercifolium. Oak-leaf geranium has deeply lobed dark green leaves reminiscent of oak leaves. The scent, however, is of almonds and incense. 

Scented geraniums are easy to grow. Give them a sunny spot with good drainage and regular fertilizer during the growing season. They grow well in containers but do need pinching and pruning to keep their shape. You can easily grow new plants from tip cuttings that root readily.

What is a Martha Washington geranium? Also known as regal geraniums, these are attractive, trailing plants with bright green, ruffled leaves. Blooms come in various shades of red and purple including bright pink, burgundy, lavender, and bicolors. Growing Martha Washington geranium plants isn’t difficult, but the plants have different needs and require a little more care than standard geraniums. For example, in order to bloom Martha Washington regal geraniums need nighttime temps to be 50-60 degrees F. (10-16 C.). Read on and learn how to grow this geranium variety. 

Growing Martha Washington Geraniums: Tips on Martha Washington Geranium Care

Plant Martha Washington geranium plants in a hanging basket, window box, or large pot. The container should be filled with good quality commercial potting mix. You can also grow in a flower bed if your winters are mild but well-drained soil is essential. Dig a generous amount of compost or well-rotted manure into the soil before planting. Apply a thick layer of leaf mulch or compost to protect the roots from winter chill.

Check your Martha Washington regal geraniums daily and water deeply, but only when the potting mix is fairly dry (but not bone dry). Avoid overwatering, as the plant may rot. Fertilize every two weeks during the growing season using a low-nitrogen fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio such as 4-8-10. Alternatively use a product formulated for blooming plants. 

Martha Washington Regal geraniums usually do well indoors but the plant needs bright light in order to flower. If light is low, especially during the winter, you may need to supplement with grow lights or fluorescent tubes. Indoor plants thrive in daytime temperatures of 65 to 70 degrees F. (18-21 C.) and around 55 degrees F. (13 C.) at night.

Remove spent blooms to keep the plant tidy and to encourage the plant to continue blooming throughout the season.

If you see worms on geranium plants in late summer, you are likely looking at the tobacco budworm. It is so common to see this pest on geraniums that this caterpillar is also called the geranium budworm. Read on for more information about caterpillars on geraniums as well as tips on geranium budworm control.

Worms on Geranium

The tobacco budworm (Helicoverpa virescens) can do serious damage to many popular garden flowers including geraniums. Other common garden hosts include petunia and nicotiana.

These budworms are the larvae of a small harmless moth. The moth’s wingspan tops out at about 1 ½ inches (around 4 cm.), which is also the mature length of the budworm. These worms are usually brown but can also be green or red. Look for the erect hairs on the worm and a white stripe running along the bug’s body.

Tobacco budworms are a major pest of tobacco and cotton plants. They can also wreak havoc as caterpillars on geraniums in your garden by chomping holes in buds and leaves. Tobacco budworms can eat entire buds off the plants. They may also eat deep holes into the core of the buds. These damaged buds may or may not open, but if they do, there are usually unsightly holes in the flower petals.

Geranium Budworm Control

If you have these caterpillars on geraniums in your garden, you are probably interested in learning about budworm control. However, there is no miracle cure to prevent the budworm from appearing.

The most economical way to deal with these worms if you have a small garden is by taking hands-on action. This involves carefully monitoring the plants for budworms and the buds for holes. Check the buds regularly.

If you find any worms on your plants, lift them off and destroy them. Note that the best time to look for larvae is at dusk when they are most active. In the day, they hide around the base of the plant.

Using Insecticides for Worms on Geraniums

If you have a lot of geraniums, you might consider using a residual garden insecticide. Synthetic pyrethrins, called pyrethoid insecticides, may be your best bet for this pest. They are the pesticides that include permethrin, esfenvalerate, cyfluthrin, or bifenthrin.

Note that the insecticide Bacillus thuringiensis, while effective on some caterpillars, may not be useful for geranium budworm control. The larvae do not eat enough pesticide to kill them as they chew their holes.

Geraniums are a pleasure to grow and typically easy to get along with, although these hardy plants can occasionally fall victim to various diseases. Botrytis blight of geraniums is one of the most common. Geranium botrytis treatment involves a multi-pronged approach that includes both cultural practices as well as fungicides. Let’s learn what to do about blight disease in geranium plants.

Geranium Botrytis Symptoms

What is geranium botrytis blight? It is a very troublesome fungal disease that shows up most often in cool, humid conditions. The spores are transmitted to healthy plants via air currents. Symptoms typically begin with brown, water-soaked spots on flowers and leaves, usually attacking wilted blooms first. As the affected areas dry out, they are replaced with masses of fluffy tan, gray, or brown fungal growth.

The disease usually spreads to the main stem, weakening the stem and causing flowers to drop from the plant. You may notice dark brown rot at the lower part of the stem. Eventually, the entire geranium plant turns brown and dry.

Controlling Blight Disease in Geranium Plants

Remove the affected plant parts immediately. Dispose of them in a sealed container to prevent spread. Rake up any fallen leaves, flowers, buds, and twigs. Keep the area clean and free of plant debris. Ensure there is adequate spacing between plants, which allows for proper air circulation and lowers humidity around the plants.

Apply a layer of fine bark or other mulch to prevent water (and fungal spores) from splashing on the stem. Destroy wilted and fading blooms on the plant. Water at the base of the plants, preferably in the morning, using a soaker hose or drip irrigation system to keep the foliage as dry as possible. Avoid overhead watering.

Apply fungicide as a foliar spray at the beginning of flowering and continue regularly throughout the season. Your local cooperative extension office can help you select the most effective product in your area. Look for a product that is nontoxic to bees and other beneficial insects. Switch fungicides periodically, as botrytis blight may become resistant.

Blackleg of geraniums sounds like something straight out of a horror story. What is geranium blackleg? It is a very grave disease that most often occurs in a greenhouse during any stage of the plant's growth. Geranium blackleg disease spreads rapidly in close quarters and can mean doom to the whole crop.

Keep reading to find out if there is any prevention or treatment for this serious geranium disease.

What is Geranium Blackleg?

By the time you discover your plant has blackleg disease, it is usually too late to save it. This is because the pathogen attacks the root, where it is impossible to observe. Once it creeps up the stem, it has already affected the plant badly enough that nothing can be done. If this sounds harsh, there are things you can do to prevent it and keep it from spreading.

If you notice your geranium cuttings are turning black, they are likely victims of some species of Pythium. The problem starts in the soil where the fungus attacks the roots. The first above ground observations are limp, yellow leaves. Under the soil, the roots have black, shiny lesions.

Fungus gnat larvae are generally present. Due to the semi-wood stem of the plant, it won't completely wilt and fall over, but the dark fungus will go up the crown to the new shoots. In a greenhouse, it most often affects new cuttings.

Contributing Factors of Geranium Blackleg Disease

Pythium is a naturally occurring soil fungus. It lives and overwinters in soil and garden debris. Excessively wet soil or high humidity can encourage the growth of the fungus. Damaged roots allow easy entry to disease.

Other factors that promote the disease are poor cutting quality, low oxygen content in soil, and excess soluble salts from too much fertilizing. Frequent leaching of the soil can help prevent the latter and avoid damage to the roots.

Treating Geranium Blackleg

Sadly, there is no treatment for the fungus. Prior to installing your geranium plants, soil can be treated with a fungicide registered for use against Pythium; however, it doesn't always work.

Using sterile soil is effective, as is developing good sanitation rituals. These include washing containers and utensils in a 10% solution of bleach and water. It is even suggested that hose ends be kept off the ground.

When geranium cuttings are turning black, it is too late to do anything. The plants must be removed and destroyed.

Bacterial wilt of geraniums causes spotting and wilting on leaves and rotting of stems. It is a damaging bacterial disease that is most often spread by using infected cuttings. This disease, also known as leaf spot and stem rot, can quickly destroy your geraniums.

Get to know the signs and how to prevent its spread in your indoor or garden.

Signs of Leaf Spot and Stem Rot on Geraniums

There are a few characteristic signs of this disease. The first is the spot formation on leaves. Look for small spots that are circular and appear water-soaked. These spots will quickly get larger and eventually the leaves will begin to wilt. 

Other signs you may notice on geranium leaves are yellowish-brown spots. These emerge between veins and radiate outward making a pie piece shape. This is followed by the collapse of the leaf. Signs of the disease on leaves may emerge alone or with other symptoms of wilt.

Sometimes, the leaves on an otherwise vigorous geranium will just simply wilt. You may also see signs of the disease in the stem. The stems turn darker and ultimately turn black before collapsing completely.

Causes and Spread of Geranium Leaf Spot and Stem Rot

This is a bacterial geranium disease caused by Xanthomonas pelargonii. These bacteria can move through and infect an entire plant. Plant matter in the soil can carry viable bacteria for a few months. The bacteria also survive on surfaces such as tools and benches.

Xanthomonas can spread and cause disease by water splashing up from the soil and onto leaves, through tools used on contaminated plants, and through whiteflies.

The best thing you can do to manage geranium leaf spot and stem rot is to use disease-free cuttings and transplants. Be careful when purchasing or sharing geraniums for this reason.

Avoid splashing water on geraniums and try to keep leaves from getting wet. This can prevent the spread of the bacterial infection.

Also, keep all tools used on geraniums sterilized to prevent disease spread.

One of the classics, geraniums were once grown mostly through cuttings, but seed-grown varieties have become very popular. Geranium seed propagation is not difficult, but it does take a while before you have producing plants. The secret to summer blooms is knowing when to plant geranium seeds.

Follow this article for tips on sowing geranium seeds.

When to Plant Geranium Seeds

With their brilliant red (sometimes pink, orange, purple, and white) blooms, geraniums add major impact to garden beds and baskets. The seed-grown varieties are usually smaller and have more flowers than those propagated by cuttings. They also tend to have more disease resistance and heat tolerance.

Geraniums grow readily from seed. However, to grow geranium from seed, you need to be patient. From seed to flower can take up to 16 weeks. Germinating seeds requires a photoperiod and heat, but the most important thing if you want summer bedding plants is knowing when to sow.

Most experts recommend January to February. Plant seeds indoors in most regions, unless you live where winters are warm and sunny. In these regions, gardeners can try direct sowing geranium seeds in a prepared bed.

How to Grow Geranium from Seed

Use seed starting mix when germinating geranium seeds. You may also use a soilless mix which can help prevent damping off fungus. Disinfect previously used flats prior to planting to prevent spreading diseases.

Fill trays with a moistened medium. Sow seeds evenly and then add a dusting of medium over them. Cover the flat or tray with plastic wrap or a clear plastic dome.

Place in bright light. Geranium seed propagation requires temperatures of at least 72 degrees F. (22 C.) but no higher than 78 degrees F. (26 C.) where germination can become inhibited.

Remove the plastic cover daily to allow excess moisture to escape. Once you see two sets of true leaves on seedlings, move them to larger containers to grow in. Plant seedlings with cotyledons under the soil.

Place plants under fluorescent lights or in a very bright location. Ideally, geraniums should have 10 to 12 hours of light per day.

Water plants when the surface of the soil is dry to the touch. Fertilize weekly with houseplant food that has been diluted by 1/4. Harden plants off for seven days before planting them out and then wait patiently for a host of blooms.

Geraniums are common flowering plants grown for their long-lived brilliant blooms. They are fairly easy to grow but do tend to have their share of diseases, one of which is geranium cutting rot. Rotten geranium cuttings are fostered by certain conditions. It is important to recognize what these conditions are as well as the symptoms of rot on geranium cuttings in order to manage diseases.

What is Geranium Cutting Rot?

Rotten geranium cuttings are the result of bacterial and/or fungal cut geranium diseases. Stem rot is usually caused by bacteria while root rot is the result of fungal infection.

Symptoms of Rot on Geranium Cuttings

Bacterial stem rot on geranium cuttings results in black, weakened stems that eventually wilt and die. Geranium cuttings rot as the result of a fungus attacking the roots, causing them to rot and kill off the plant.

How to Control Cut Geranium Diseases

Geraniums propagated by cuttings are susceptible to a number of soil-borne organisms. It is of utmost importance to properly handle the plants to prevent infections of cut geranium diseases.

Excellent sanitation methods are the key to preventing infections of cut geranium diseases. Wash your hands prior to handling the plants to prevent the spread of bacteria and fungi. Also, disinfect your tools with a solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water.

Before planting cuttings, treat the cut stem with a fungicide to reduce the risk of rotten geranium cuttings. Also, allow the cutting of geranium to cure prior to planting; this will reduce the risk of disease. Lay cuttings on damp sand in the shade for a few hours to allow the cut wound to heal over.

Water the geranium plants so the soil is moist but never soggy, as this fosters cut geranium diseases. Rotten geranium cuttings are more likely to happen if the pots they are in have inadequate drainage. Avoid wetting the foliage when watering.

Keep an eye out for any insect activity on the plants, as insects can spread disease from plant to plant. Either hand pick or treat insect populations with an insecticidal soap or a pesticide recommended for the specific insect.

If a plant exhibits signs of rot on geranium cuttings, dispose of it immediately. Do not compost them because the diseased organism may survive during composting.

Although geraniums are common outdoor plants, it is very possible to keep the common geranium as a houseplant. There are a few things that you need to keep in mind in terms of growing geraniums inside, however.

About Geranium Houseplants

Before we take a look at indoor geranium care, it’s worth mentioning that there are many different varieties of geraniums.

The most common variety that is seen everywhere is the zonal geranium. These flower in a variety of colors including white, red, pink, salmon, lavender, and others. 

Another variety of geranium are the ivy leaf geraniums. These have waxier leaves and are trailing in habit and also flower in a variety of colors. 

The Martha Washington geranium is another type of flowering geranium but these are not as heat tolerant as the rest.

Finally, there are various scented geraniums that are grown mainly for the lovely fragrance their leaves produce. They come in scents such as rose, cinnamon, lemon, and many others.

How To Grow Geraniums Indoors

Indoor geranium care is easy if you can give your plant the following care:

• Light – In order to produce sturdy plants indoors and flowering, it is important to place your geranium houseplants where they will receive at least six to eight hours of direct sun. If you don’t happen to have appropriately sunny windows, you can supplement with artificial grow lights for about 14 hours a day in order to keep the plants in good condition. 
• Soil and Watering – Use a soilless potting mix for your geraniums. Geraniums like a light, loamy potting mix that is well drained. Allow your geranium’s soil to dry out pretty well in between thorough waterings. If you keep the soil too wet, these plants are very prone to diseases such as gray mold, blossom blight, and rust.
• Temperature – Geraniums tend to prefer cooler temperatures. Ideal temperatures are 65 to 70 degrees F. (18-21 C.) during the day, and around 55 degrees F. (13 C.) in the evening.
• Fertilizer – For good growth and flowering, you should fertilize your indoor geraniums during the growing season. Time-release fertilizers can be used or an all-purpose liquid fertilizer at about half strength about once a month. 
• Pot Size and Pruning – Geraniums like to be somewhat potbound, so make sure not to overpot these plants. Also, to encourage a bushy plant, prune back any leggy canes and pinch back the growing tips in order to encourage a bushier plant. 

Geraniums are some of the most popular and easy-to-care-for garden and potted plants. But while they are usually low maintenance, they are prone to some problems that can be a real issue if left untreated. Geranium rust is one such problem. It’s a very serious and relatively new disease that can completely defoliate and even kill a plant. Keep reading to learn more about recognizing geranium leaf rust symptoms and managing and treating geraniums with leaf rust.

What is Geranium Rust?

Geranium rust is a disease caused by the fungus Puccinia Pelargonii-zonalis. It originated in South Africa, but over the course of the 20th century, it spread throughout the world, reaching the continental United States in 1967. It is now a serious problem for geraniums worldwide, particularly in greenhouses where quarters are close and humidity is high.

Geranium Leaf Rust Symptoms

Rust on a geranium begins as small, pale yellow circles on the underside of the leaves. These spots quickly grow in size and darken to brown or “rusty” colored spores. Rings of pustules will surround these spots, and pale yellow circles will appear opposite them on the upper sides of the leaves. Heavily infected leaves will drop. Untreated geraniums with leaf rust will eventually become completely defoliated.

Treating Geranium Leaf Rust

The best method of geranium leaf rust treatment is prevention. Only buy plants from reputable sources, and thoroughly inspect leaves before purchasing. Spores thrive in cool, damp conditions, and are especially prevalent in greenhouses. Keep your plants warm, space them well for good airflow, and keep water from splashing on leaves during irrigation. If you see signs of rust, immediately remove and destroy infected leaves, and treat the rest of the leaves with fungicide. If a plant is heavily infected, it may have to be destroyed.

Geraniums are one of the most popular indoor and outdoor flowering plants and are relatively hardy but, like any plant, can be susceptible to a number of diseases. It’s important to be able to identify diseases of geranium, if and when they do occur. Read on to learn more about the most common geranium problems and the best methods of treating a sick geranium plant.

Common Geranium Diseases

Alternaria Leaf Spot: Alternaria leaf spot is marked by dark brown, water-soaked circular spots that are ¼ to ½ inch (6 mm. to 1 cm.) in diameter. Upon examination of each individual spot, you will see the formation of concentric rings, which are reminiscent of the growth rings you see on the stump of a cut tree. Individual spots may be surrounded by a yellow halo. The most common course of treatment for geranium problems like this is an application of fungicide. Bacterial Blight: Bacterial blight presents itself in a few different ways. It can be identified by its circular or irregular shaped water-soaked spots/lesions, which are tan or brown in color. Yellow wedge-shaped areas (think Trivial Pursuit wedges) can also form with the wide part of the triangular wedge being along the leaf margin and the point of the wedge touching a leaf vein. The bacterium spreads into the vascular system of the plant via the veins and petioles of the leaves causing them, and eventually the entire plant, to wilt culminating in stem rot and death. Plants infected with bacterial blight should be discarded and good sanitation measures should be practiced, especially with gardening tools and potting benches – basically anything that may have come in contact with the diseased geranium. Botrytis Blight: Botrytis blight, or gray mold, is one of those geranium diseases that seem to be prevalent when the weather conditions are cool and damp. Usually, one of the first parts of the plant to become infected is the blossom, which turns brown, initially with a water-soaked appearance, and may transition to being covered with a coating of gray fungus spores. Affected blossoms fall prematurely and leaves touched by the descending petals will develop leaf spots or lesions. Prune off and destroy infected plant parts and keep the soil surrounding the plant clear of any debris. Fungicides may be applied at the first sign of disease to help curtail its spread. Pelargonium Rust: Unlike leaf spots and blights, which may be hard to discern from one another, rust fungus is fairly easy to identify. Reddish brown pustules develop on the underside of leaves with yellow areas forming directly over the pustules on the leaf’s surface. The removal of infected leaves and an application of fungicide is the best means of treating a sick geranium afflicted with rust. Blackleg: Blackleg is a disease of young plants and cuttings that is pretty much unmistakable. It is mentioned here because stem cuttings are a very popular and easy way to propagate geraniums. The stem of the geranium rots, starting out as a brown water-soaked rot at the base of the stem which turns black and spreads up the stem resulting in a rapid demise. Once blackleg takes hold, the cutting must be immediately removed and destroyed. Precautions can be taken to avoid diseases of geranium like blackleg by using a sterile rooting media, disinfecting tools used to take stem cuttings, and taking care not to overwater your cuttings as a damp environment can foster the disease.

Zonal geraniums are longtime favorites in the garden. Their easy care, long bloom period, and low water needs makes them extremely versatile in borders, window boxes, hanging baskets, containers, or as bedding plants. Most gardeners are very familiar with the wide range of bloom colors for zonal geraniums. However, brocade geranium plants can add even more exquisite color to the garden with just their foliage. Continue reading for more brocade geranium info.

Brocade Geranium Info

Brocade geranium plants (Pelargonium x hortorum) are zonal geraniums that are more commonly grown as accent plants for their colorful foliage rather than their brightly colored, classic geranium blooms. Like all geraniums, their flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds, while the plant’s natural scent deters deer. The truly outstanding characteristic of brocade geranium plants is the unique variegation of their foliage. Below are several of the highly sought-after varieties of brocade geranium and their unique color combinations:

• Indian Dunes – Chartreuse and copper variegated foliage with red blooms
• Catalina – Green and white variegated foliage with hot pink blooms
• Black Velvet Appleblossom – Black to dark purple foliage with light green margins and peach colored blooms
• Black Velvet Red – Black to dark purple foliage with light green margins and red orange blooms
• Crystal Palace – Chartreuse and green variegated foliage with red blooms
• Mrs. Pollock Tricolor – Red, gold, and green variegated foliage with red blooms
• Red Happy Thoughts – Green and cream-colored variegated foliage with reddish pink foliage
• Vancouver Centennial – Star shaped purple and green variegated foliage with pinkish red blooms
• Wilhelm Langguth – Light green foliage with dark green margins and red blooms

How to Grow Brocade Leaf Geraniums

Brocade geranium care is no different than the care of other zonal geraniums. They grow best in full sun to part shade, but too much shade can make them leggy. Brocade geranium plants prefer rich, well-draining soil. Improper drainage or too much moisture can cause root and stem rots. When planted in the ground, geraniums have low watering needs; however, in containers they will need regular watering. Brocade geranium plants should be fertilized in spring with a slow-release fertilizer. They should be deadheaded as flowers fade to increase blooms. Many gardeners cut zonal geranium plants back halfway in midsummer to shape and create fullness. Brocade geranium plants are hardy in zones 10 and 11, but they can be overwintered indoors.

Geraniums are one of the most loved garden plants because of their low maintenance, long bloom time, and variety of flower and foliage colors. Although they are hardy only in U.S. hardiness zones 10 and 11, geraniums are commonly grown as annuals in cooler climates. They can even be taken indoors and grown as houseplants through the cold winter months. Geraniums are generally low maintenance and easy to grow but, like any plant, they can experience some problems. One of the most common includes geranium leaves turning red. Continue reading to learn more about afflictions that can lead to red leaves on geraniums.

Why are My Geranium Leaves Red?

Red leaves on a geranium are a sign that the plant is stressed in some way. While the bright red coloration of stressed geraniums can actually be quite attractive, it is a sign of concern. Red geranium leaves can be a symptom of minor problems, such as over or underwatering, nutrient deficiencies, or cool temperatures. However, geranium leaves turning red can also signify more serious issues. The most common reason for red leaves on a geranium is cool temperatures. This may happen in spring or fall when these heat-loving plants become shocked by fluctuating temperatures and cold nighttime temps. In spring, this problem will often work itself out as temperatures begin to warm up. However, container grown geraniums may need to be taken indoors when low temperatures are expected and geraniums in beds may need to be covered. In autumn, geraniums with red leaves can be left for added fall color. However, if you wish to overwinter geraniums, you should pick off the red leaves and move the plant indoors. When cool temperatures are not the cause of red leaves on a geranium, it may be time to think about your watering habits. Geranium plants have low water needs and red geranium leaves oftentimes are caused by overwatering. Geraniums may also produce red leaves from too little watering. Therefore, it is important to pay attention to the weather and the timing of red leaves. If it is a cooler period like spring or fall, the fluctuations in temperature may be the problem. If it is a specifically rainy period or time of drought, water may be causing red geranium leaves.

Other Causes for Geraniums with Red Leaves

A lack of magnesium or phosphorus can also cause red leaves on a geranium. It is recommended that geraniums be fertilized every 7 to 14 days with a foliar fertilizer for flowering plants or vegetables. The fertilizer’s ideal NPK ratio should be 5-15-15 or 4-10-10. Another deficiency that can cause red leaves on a geranium is low pH. The ideal pH for geraniums is 6.5. If you have ruled out temperature, watering, and fertilizing issues as a cause for red leaves, it may be a good idea to test your soil pH. A fungal disease known as geranium leaf rust can cause red or brown lesions to form on the undersides of geranium leaves. This disease is caused by the fungus Puccinia pelargonium-zonalis. Many geranium hybrids are resistant to this condition. The symptoms are mainly red-to-brown lesions or rings on the underside of foliage and powdery red-to-brown pores covering the underside of foliage as the disease progresses. This disease does not cause entire geranium leaves to turn a bright red, so it is easy to distinguish between geranium leaf rust and common afflictions which cause red leaves on a geranium.

I had some absolutely gorgeous coral-colored geraniums in a container last year. I loved the color so much I wished I could clone them for this year. A little digging on the internet informed me that I could do the next best thing: take geranium cuttings. Young plants can then be cultivated as container-based geraniums until established, and grown either indoors or moved outside for summer months.

I’d never thought about propagating geraniums. In my zone (6b), geraniums are grown as annuals, so the idea of geranium propagation never crossed my mind. So here’s what I learned about how to grow geraniums from cuttings.

Best Ways to Propagate Geranium Cuttings

With the exception of USDA zones 10-11, geraniums are generally grown as annuals. My search convinced me otherwise.

I have to admit that the idea of propagating geranium cuttings came to me through my Mom, the Master Gardener, who brings her plants indoors and cultivates them in her sunroom for the winter. Lacking the space to do such a thing, I came upon taking cuttings. Cuttings can be started in water, in sterile potting medium or planted directly into the ground.

Best Time to Propagate Geraniums

Take cuttings for geranium propagation from a healthy plant in the late spring to early summer, or in the late fall to overwinter indoors.

How to Take Geranium Cuttings

With some sharp, sterile shears or a knife, take a 3-4 inch (8-10 cm) stem cutting from the terminal end of the shoots. Remove leaves from the bottom 2 inches (5 cm) of the cutting then dip the cut end in rooting hormone.

How to Propagate Geranium Cuttings

Geranium cuttings can be overwintered indoors in containers, planted directly into the soil outside, or started in water for later transplant. Read on to find out how each propagation method works:

Starting Indoors To Overwinter

To propagate geranium cuttings inside to overwinter, put the cuttings in sterile potting mix, vermiculite or a mix of perlite and sphagnum moss. Use a flat or pot with adequate drainage holes. The cutting should be pushed into the medium far enough that it supports itself. Be sure that any bare leaf nodes, where you’ve removed the leaves, are buried in the medium.

Water the medium and allow it to drain. Once the container has drained, cover it and the cuttings with a clear plastic bag that will act as a mini greenhouse.

Put the cuttings in bright but not direct sunlight. The geranium cuttings should root in about 6-8 weeks, often earlier.

When the cuttings have a good root system, transplant them into their own containers. Put the cuttings in a sunny window or other area with good artificial light until the spring at which point they can be hardened off and moved outside.

Planting Direct In Soil

Geranium cuttings can also be started directly into the soil outside, but you need to start them in a partial sun area when temperatures are warm, not hot and keep the soil consistently moist, not sodden.

Before you try this, allow the cuttings to sit out for 3 days so the cut end forms a callus. The callus keeps fungal diseases from taking hold. Then plant your cutting in the ground, far enough that it needs no additional support, as above.

Starting In Water

You can propagate your cuttings in water, but be aware that the results are a tossup. Cuttings in water tend to mildew quickly and eventually will have to be potted up anyway. If you want to start cuttings in water, plan on planting them sooner than later.

As above, take a 3-4 inch (8-10 cm) cutting and place it in a jar of water in bright, but indirect sun. Change the water every couple of days and keep an eye out for root growth. The cutting will root in 6-8 weeks, often as early as 4 weeks. When the cutting has formed a good root system, transplant it into a good potting mix.

Geraniums are beautiful and extremely popular flowering plants that grow well both in the garden and in containers. They’re popular for their bright and sometimes fragrant flowers, but they bring with them the extra bonus of being especially good companion plants. Keep reading to learn more about companion planting with geraniums and what to plant with geranium flowers.

Plants that Grow Next to Geraniums

Companion planting with geraniums is so beneficial because they deter some very common and destructive pests. Geraniums are known to repel earworms, cabbageworms, and Japanese beetles. Because of this, the best companion plants for geraniums are those that are prone to suffering from them, like corn, roses, grapes, and cabbage. Scented geraniums are also believed to deter spider mites, leafhoppers and cotton aphids, meaning good scented geranium plant companions are almost any vegetable in your garden. Spider mites, in particular, can devastate most vegetable crops in the heat of summer, so most plants will benefit from having geraniums blooming nearby.

Using Geranium Plant Companions

For effective pest control, plant a border of geraniums around your vegetable garden or simply plant them interspersed among the vegetables, especially near plants that have suffered from pests in the past. Plant them near rose bushes to keep the bugs at bay and to create an attractive floral accent. Even if you’re not looking for pest control, geraniums are stunning in their own right and can be paired effectively with complimentary colors. Geraniums come in a wide range of colors, and it’s up to you how you’d like to complement them. Chrysanthemums, for example, are a great choice for geranium plant companions if you want a show-stopping bed of big blossoms in lots of hues. Most any annual or perennial sharing similar growing conditions will make an exceptional neighbor to geraniums.

Are geraniums annual or perennial? It’s a simple question with a slightly complicated answer. It depends upon how harsh your winters are, of course, but it also depends upon what you’re calling a geranium. Keep reading to learn more about the lifespan of geranium flowers and what to do with geraniums after blooming.

Lifespan of Geranium Flowers

Geraniums can be split into two main categories. There are true geraniums, which are often called hardy geraniums and cranesbill. They are often confused with common or scented geraniums, which are actually a related but completely separate genus called Pelargoniums. These have a much showier display of flowers than true geraniums, but they are harder to keep alive in the winter. Pelargoniums are native to South Africa and are only hardy in USDA zones 10 and 11. Though they can live for many years in warm climates, they are often just grown as annuals in most places. They can also be grown in containers and overwintered indoors. The common geranium lifespan can be many years, as long as it never gets too cold. True geraniums, on the other hand, are much more cold hardy and can be grown as perennials in many more climates. Most are winter hardy in USDA zones 5 through 8. Certain varieties can survive the hotter summers in zone 9, and some others can survive, at least as far as the roots, in winters as cold as those in zone 3. The true geranium lifespan, as long as it’s cared for well, can be many years long. They can also be easily overwintered. Certain other varieties, such as Geranium maderense, are biennials that will survive most winters but have a lifespan of only two years. So to answer “how long do geraniums live,” it really depends on where you live and the type of “geranium” plant you have.

Ivy leaf geranium spills from window boxes on picturesque Swiss cottages, sporting attractive foliage and perky blossoms. Ivy leaf geraniums, Pelargonium peltatum, are not as common in the United States as their relative, the popular Zonal geranium. As more gardeners plant them, however, and see the beautiful and bountiful blooms appear, growing ivy geraniums may soon become a common gardening delight.

Trailing Geranium Ivy Plants

More than 75 different commercial cultivars of trailing geranium ivy are becoming more widely available to the home gardener in this country. Flowers and foliage colors vary among cultivars, as does the habit of ivy leaf geranium.

Some specimens take on a shrub-like appearance, others spread and offer an attractive ground cover for an area with dappled sun. Some have mounding habits and most are excellent specimens for container plantings.

Ivy leaf geranium blooms have semi-double flowers in colors from white to red, and most pastels in every color except blue and yellow. Flowers are "self-cleaning" so deadheading is not needed as part of care for ivy geraniums.

Growing Ivy Geraniums and Care

Locate trailing geranium ivy in full sun if temperatures remain below 80 F. (27 C.), but in hotter temperatures, plant them in partial shade. Protection from the hot afternoon sun is an important part of ivy geranium care. Too much bright sun may result in small, cup-shaped leaves and small blooms. An eastern exposure is the best area for growing ivy geraniums.

Care for ivy geraniums is easy if you maintain proper watering practices. Watering ivy leaf geranium must be consistent. Moderate soil moisture levels, not too much and not too little, is necessary to prevent edema, which causes ruptured plant cells, manifesting in corky blemishes on the underside of leaves. This weakens the plant, making it susceptible to pests and other diseases. Get on a regular schedule for watering as a part of care for ivy geraniums.

When growing ivy geraniums in containers, watering is particularly important. Keep the soil moist, paying special attention to ivy leaf geranium in hanging baskets that get air circulation in all areas.

Fertilize with a slow-release pelleted fertilizer as part of ivy geranium care.

Geraniums are one of the most recognizable summer bedding plants, but they're not actually geraniums at all. The plant most people call "geraniums" are really pelargoniums. These classic flowers are also technically perennials, however, most home gardeners known these plants as annuals.

Geraniums (Pelargonium spp.), also known as bedding geraniums or tender geraniums, originate in the hot climates of southern Africa and Australia. Home gardeners have long prized them as container plants. Their vibrant flowers and whimsical scalloped leaves look right at home in porch pots or window boxes. Though some may consider geraniums "old-fashioned" flowers, these plants are a garden staple for good reason.

Aside from their gorgeous flowers, one of the reasons why geraniums are so beloved is how easy they are to grow. With just a bit of basic maintenance, anyone can enjoy colorful geranium blooms all summer long.

Types of Geraniums

Before we cover geranium care, let's clarify what exactly a geranium is. The plant most people in the United States call "geraniums" are actually part of the genus Pelargonium. The name comes from the Greek word pelargos, which means "stork" due to the beak-like appearance of the plant's seedpods.

Hardy geraniums (Geranium spp.) and tender geraniums (Pelargonium spp.) are related plants. They're both part of the Geraniaceae family, though they have very different care needs. That's why it's important to understand which plant you're dealing with first. In this article, we'll be discussing tender geraniums.

There are four main types of tender geranium flowers most gardeners grow, which are available to buy as a plant or seed from garden centers, or online resellers such as Amazon and Walmart:

• Most commonly grown as annuals and in beds are zonal geraniums. These are named for the different zones of color in their leaves. The flowers are usually white, pink, salmon, or red.
• Scented geraniums have interesting aromas, including varieties that smell like rose, apple, peppermint, or citronella. In fact, mosquito plants are actually a type of geranium! This type of geranium doesn't have showy flowers, though their fragrance make them a lovely addition to the garden.
• Regal, or Martha Washington geraniums are most often used as houseplants.
• Ivy geraniums, like the ones pictured below, have leaves that resemble ivy and a trailing growth habit.

Geranium Care

The easiest way to plant geraniums is from transplants, which are easy to find at nearly every garden center in spring. You’ll find cultivars propagated by seed, which are largely varieties with the single flower form. Since these plants must be protected from cold, wait until the threat of frost has passed before planting.

Space plants about 8 to 12 inches (20-30 cm) apart, and around the same depth as their original planting pots. After planting, mulch geraniums to help retain moisture and keep them hydrated through the hot summer days.

Light

Geraniums grow best in full sun but will tolerate some shade, especially at the hottest part of the day. They should get 4 to 8 hours of direct sunlight per day. Though depending on where you grow geranium plants, their needs may differ.

If you live somewhere with extremely hot summers, it's best to plant geraniums in a spot that receives some afternoon shade. If you live in a cooler climate with milder summer temperatures, geraniums can tolerate more sunlight.

When growing indoors, geraniums need lots of light for blooming but will tolerate moderate light conditions. They also need indoor temps of around 65-70 degrees F (18-21 C) during the day and 55 degrees F (13 C) at night.

Water

For outdoor plants, water geraniums when the top 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) of soil is dry. In hot weather, outdoor potted plants may need daily watering. Geraniums tolerate dry soil better than wet, so avoid overwatering.

If growing geraniums indoors, water deeply once the soil feels dry.

Temperature & Humidity

Geraniums originate in the hot climates of southern Africa and Australia, so they need warm temperatures to grow well. If you live in an area that experiences freezing winter temperatures, you will likely grow geraniums as annuals.

When growing geraniums from seed, you need temperatures around 70-75 degrees F (21-24 C) for germination. Mature geranium plants grow best with daytime temperatures around the same range and nighttime temperatures around 60-65 F (15-18 C).

Geraniums can survive temperatures down to 45 F (7 C), but they will stop growing around 50 F (10 C). Temperatures above 85 F (29 C) can also slow or even stop new growth.

Geraniums can tolerate low humidity and are slightly drought tolerant, though they grow best with regular watering.

Soil

Be sure to plant geraniums in well-draining soil. They do not thrive in clay, but can tolerate slightly acidic soil.

When growing geraniums outdoors, choose a well-draining potting mix. A soilless growing medium is ideal for geraniums. You can also create a homemade soilless potting mix to ensure your geraniums receive the drainage they need to thrive.

If you buy a pre-made potting mix, choose one with fertilizer included in it. Geraniums need good nutrition to put out lots of beautiful blooms, especially if you grow them as annuals. If you make your own potting mix, you can include a granular fertilizer to help feed plants all season.

Fertilizer

Fertilize your geraniums with a water-soluble houseplant fertilizer or a 5-10-5 fertilizer with additional organic matter every four to six weeks throughout their active growing season.

Problems, Pests & Diseases

The most common diseases of geraniums involve overly wet conditions. If your environment is hot, humid, and rainy then you might experience rot and mold.

To avoid these problems, space your plants far enough apart to ensure good airflow. Avoid overwatering and remove plant debris from the surrounding soil to prevent rot as well. Water geraniums gently at the soil line to keep the foliage dry and to avoid letting soil splash onto the plants.

Common infestations include aphids, whiteflies, and mites. They are more of a problem on houseplants, so watch out for early signs of pests.

Pruning

Geraniums require very little maintenance to grow well. Deadhead spent geranium blooms with a reliable set of pruners, like these Felco F6 Hand Pruners from Amazon, to keep plants flowering, and pinch off stems to encourage branching. Otherwise, you don’t really need to prune a geranium to keep it happy and thriving.

Propagation

There are two main ways to propagate geraniums, from cuttings or from seeds:

How to Propagate by Cuttings

Propagating geraniums by cuttings is the easiest and most foolproof way to grow more of your favorite summer flowers. If you live in a warm climate, take cuttings in early summer and root them in a glass of water. Transplant them into potting mix once they develop roots. You can also plant cuttings directly in soil or a soilless potting medium like perlite.

If you grow geraniums as annuals, take cuttings in late summer or early fall. Root them in water or potting mix and grow them indoors until the following spring.

How to Propagate by Seeds

You can grow geraniums from seed, but they mature slowly. You’ll need at least 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost date to get them started. Otherwise, plant rooted cuttings or transplants outside after the last frost. Geraniums are also easily propagated by taking cuttings, and some varieties must be propagated this way to ensure the right characteristics.

Overwintering

When growing them as annuals, most gardeners simply buy new geraniums each spring. A more cost-effective option is to overwinter your favorite plants. One way to do this is by taking cuttings.

You can also bring in plants before the first frost of fall and grow geraniums indoors as houseplants. Place your plant in a cool spot with bright, direct sunlight and reduce watering for the winter.

Another way to save geraniums over winter, which will provide more vigorous blooming the following year is to bring geraniums inside and allow them to go dormant.

Place potted geraniums in a cool, dark part of the house that will not get cold enough for frost. A garage or basement is ideal. Water them once a month until early spring, then move them to a sunny spot near a window. Prune off any dead leaves or stems and water regularly like a houseplant.

Once new growth emerges, fertilize plants. As soon as temperatures rise and remain above freezing in spring, plant out your geraniums.

Frequently Asked Questions

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Geraniums are among the most popular bedding plants, mostly due to their drought-tolerant nature and their lovely, bright, pom-pom like flowers. As wonderful as geraniums are, there may be times when you notice your geranium leaves turning yellow. What causes a geranium with yellow leaves and how can it be fixed?

Causes of Geraniums with Yellow Leaves

One of the most common causes of yellowing leaves is too much moisture or overwatering. Generally, on overwatered plants, the bottom portions of geraniums have yellow leaves. They may also develop pale looking water spots. If this is the case, you should immediately stop watering and allow the plants to dry out. Remember, geraniums are drought-tolerant plants and they do not like too much water. Water or air temperature that is too cool can also result in geranium yellow leaves. Geraniums are a warm weather plant and they do not deal with cool weather well. Cold snaps in the spring or extended cool weather, especially cool, wet weather, can cause geraniums with yellow leaves. In addition, when the geranium leaves become more yellow than green, a nutrient deficiency could be the cause. Geranium plants should be fertilized with a complete, water-soluble fertilizer (preferably one with micro-nutrients) at least every third watering or once monthly. Not only will fertilizer help prevent yellow leaves on geraniums, but it will also help the plant to grow bigger faster with more blooms. Occasionally, a geranium with yellow leaves is due to some type of disease. For instance, verticillium is a fungal infection that can cause stunted growth, wilting, and bright yellow leaves. What about geranium leaves with yellow edges? Geranium leaves with yellow edges or yellow tipped leaves on geraniums are usually attributed to a lack of water or dehydration. While geraniums are drought-tolerant, they do need some water. In these instances, you can feel the soil to determine just how dry the plants may be and water accordingly. It may also help to trim off the yellowing growth. As you can see, geraniums with yellow leaves typically need just a little TLC to help them recover. Give a geranium what it needs and you will not see your geranium's leaves turning yellow.

Many people wonder why their geraniums get leggy, especially if they keep them year after year. Geraniums are one of the most popular bedding plants, and while they are normally quite attractive, routine pruning may be necessary in order to keep them looking their best. This not only helps prevent overgrown geraniums but will also reduce or fix leggy geranium plants.

Causes of Leggy Geranium Plants

Most leggy growth on geraniums is the result of irregular pruning maintenance. Geraniums are naturally leggy, woody plants in the wild, but in our homes, we like them to be compact and bushy. In order to keep a geranium compact and bushy and prevent it from getting leggy, it needs to be pruned hard at least once a year. The more regularly you prune your geranium, the better able a geranium is able to keep a pleasing shape. Spindly geraniums can also be the result of poor light conditions. In addition to pruning, allowing more space between plants and locating them in full sun can oftentimes alleviate the problem. Excessive moisture is another cause of leggy geraniums. Geraniums should be planted in well-draining soil and should only be watered when the soil is dry to the touch. Overwatering geraniums can result in a stunted, sickly, and spindly geranium plant.

Pruning Leggy Geraniums

Not sure what to do with leggy geraniums? Try pruning. Prior to bringing plants indoors (usually late fall), you should cut back about a third of your spindly geraniums. Make sure you remove any unhealthy or dead stems as well. Pruning leggy geraniums also prevents them from becoming overgrown and unsightly. Pinching is another practice for fixing leggy plants. Normally this is done on established plants to produce bushier growth. It can be performed during active growth or just following pruning—once new growth has reached a few inches (8 cm.) high, pinch out about ½ to 1 inch (1-2.5 cm.) from the tips.

Pruning geraniums can keep them looking their best. Cutting back geraniums will prevent woody and leggy geraniums, especially in geraniums that have been overwintered. Below you will find information on how to prune geranium plants to keep them looking healthy.

Steps for Pruning Geraniums

There are three different methods for cutting back geraniums. Which one you use will depend on what you are trying to do.

Pruning Geraniums After Winter Dormancy

If you place your geraniums into dormancy for overwintering or if you live in an area where geraniums die back some over the winter, the best time to prune geraniums is in early spring. Remove all of the dead and brown leaves from the geranium plant. Next trim away any unhealthy stems. Healthy geranium stems will feel firm if gently squeezed. If you would like a less woody and leggy geranium, cut back the geranium plant by one-third, focusing on stems that have started to turn woody.

Cutting Back Geraniums That are Wintered Alive

If you do not put your geraniums into dormancy for the winter and they stay green in the ground or in containers year round, the best time to prune them is in late fall or just before you bring them indoors, if you plan on bringing them indoors. Prune the geranium plant back by one-third to one-half, focusing on stems that are woody or leggy.

How to Pinch Geraniums

Pinching geraniums is a type of geranium pruning that forces the plant to grow more compact and bushy. Pinching can be done on new bedding geranium plants that you have just bought or on geraniums that have been overwintered. Geranium pinching starts in spring. Once a stem on a geranium plant has gotten to be a few inches (7.5 to 10 cm.), using a sharp pair of scissors, or even your fingers, snip or pinch 1/4 to 1/2 inch (0.5 to 1.5 cm.) off the end of the stem. 

Repeat on all the stems. This will force the geranium to grow two new stems off the original and this is what creates the bushier, fuller plant. You can continue pinching geraniums all through spring, if you would like. Pruning geraniums is easy and makes your geranium look healthier. Now that you know how to prune geranium plants, you can enjoy your geraniums more.

Mastering the art of overwintering geraniums is one of the best ways to guarantee that these versatile plants thrive for longer. Notable for their beautiful blooms, and often for their fragrance, it’s easy to see how these plants became so popular.

Geraniums are a gorgeous addition to containers and hanging baskets, as well as beds and mixed borders. So if you are new to growing geraniums, make sure you devote some time to the best geranium winter care so they can be returned to the garden in spring.

Overwintering Geraniums Made Simple

Geraniums (Pelargonium x hortorum) are grown as annuals in most parts of the United States, but they are actually tender perennials. They are hardy to USDA growing zones 10-11. However, with the proper geranium care in winter, you can help your favorite varieties survive the coolest months of the year – even outside their hardiness range.

Learning how to keep geraniums over the winter is easy. Saving geraniums for the winter can be done in three ways: overwintering in pots, storing as bare-root plants, and taking cuttings of existing plants. Below, we will explore each of these techniques in greater detail.

When to Overwinter Geraniums

Before considering how to overwinter geraniums, it’s wise to consider time frames. Shorter days and mild temperatures combine to help slow the plant’s rate of growth, as well as readying it for the winter dormancy period.

While overwintering techniques require different approaches, it’s best to begin preparing in mid to late summer or early fall. If you have some idea of which overwintering method appeals to you, this will help inform you as to the very best time to proceed.

Overwinter Potted Geraniums

To overwinter outdoor potted geranium plants, move them indoors before the arrival of the first fall frost. To grow their best, provide the plants with bright, indirect light. Geranium winter care for potted specimens includes regular, routine watering. Plants often become leggy over the course of the winter season, and are likely to require aggressive pruning before they’re reintroduced into the garden in the spring.

For a garden-planted geranium, you can dig up the plant and place it in a pot that can comfortably fit its rootball. It’s a good idea to prune the geranium plant back by one-third with your set of hand pruners, just like the Felco F6 shears from Amazon. Water the pot thoroughly and place it in a cool but well-lit part of your house. If the cool spot you have in mind does not have enough light, place a lamp or fluorescent light close to the plant. Keep this light on 24 hours. This continuous lighting will help winter geraniums last through the chilly months. You may wind up with leggy geranium plants, but these can be corrected.

Overwinter Bare Root Geraniums

If you grow scented geranium (or pelargonium), these can be stored over winter as bare root plants. Geraniums will go into dormancy easily, meaning you can store them in a similar fashion to storing tender bulbs.To transition the plants to winter storage, dig or move them from the garden before the arrival of the first fall frost.

Rinse the excess soil from the roots and place each plant in a brown paper sack. Hang the plants upside down in your basement or garage. The plant’s stems and foliage will die back slowly, but its root system will remain healthy and vital through the storage period. Once a month, you can soak the roots of the geranium in water for an hour, then re-hang it.

Ideal storage conditions for overwintering geraniums are free of frost and range in temperature from 45-50°F (7-10°C). In the spring, replant the dormant geraniums in the ground, and they will spring back to life.

Take Some Geranium Cuttings

It’s easy to take cuttings to overwinter geraniums. Start by snipping several 3-4in (8-10cm) stem segments from the soft (green) part of the plant. Remove foliage from the bottom half of the cutting, leaving only one or two leaf sets. If you wish, dip each cutting into rooting hormone.

Arrange the cuttings into a moist, high-quality potting mix or vermiculite - like this Hoffman Horticultural Vermiculite from Amazon - with plenty of drainage. Cover the planted cuttings with a humidity dome or a plastic bag to help regulate moisture levels and maintain ideal conditions as the cutting takes root. The cuttings should root in six-eight weeks. When they have rooted, repot them in potting soil. Keep them in a cool, sunny spot until they can go back outside again.

Taking cuttings from existing plants lets you multiply your collection. Just bear in mind that certain plant varieties have been patented and are not allowed to be propagated without special authorization.

How to Revive Geraniums Next Year

Depending on which method of overwintering geraniums you chose, the arrival of spring marks means growers can begin introducing plants back into the garden. Overwintered geraniums should be moved outdoors gradually by hardening them off. Those kept as potted plants are especially susceptible to damage caused by a sudden change in growing conditions.

Cuttings can also be moved to the garden in the same manner. Bare root plants can be potted into containers in late winter and moved to a warmer location to begin growing. They may also be planted into beds after the risk of frost has passed. Getting geraniums to last over winter will reward you with large, lush plants long before your neighbors have bought theirs.