Water wick propagation is a unique take on the traditional plant propagation technique of air layering. Air layering has been around long enough that most propagators know the routine: wound a node, pack it with damp sphagnum moss, wrap it in plastic, wait. It works on a wide range of woody and semi-woody plants.

The wick method takes the same underlying principle as air layering — keeping a node moist while it’s still drawing energy from the parent — and removes the part most people find fiddly, which is maintaining consistent moisture inside the wrap.

It’s one of the more interesting variations among the types of plant propagation worth knowing about, and the setup is genuinely simple. A cotton wick runs from a small water reservoir up to the node, delivering moisture through capillary action continuously. The plant does the waiting; the wick does the work. Like any propagation method, constant moisture still needs some airflow—if the area stays too wet without oxygen, the wound can rot instead of rooting.

How Water Wick Propagation Works

Capillary action is what makes wicking work—water moves through a fibrous material from a wet end toward a dry one without any pump or pressure required. A cotton wick, a strip of flannel, or even a twisted length of cotton rope will pull water upward from a small jar or bottle and deliver it steadily to whatever it’s in contact with. In propagation, that contact point is a prepared node on a branch that’s still attached to the parent plant.

The node needs a little preparation first. Scraping away a small band of bark about an inch (2.5cm) wide to expose the cambium layer, or making two shallow cuts around the stem, gives roots something to emerge from. The wick gets wrapped snugly around that wounded area and held in place with a loose tie—not so tight it cuts into the stem, but tight enough to stay in contact. The other end drops into a water container positioned nearby. From that point, moisture delivery is automatic.

Setting It Up

The wick material matters more than expected, as well. Cotton works well because it wicks consistently and is less prone to stagnation than heavier materials that can rot a wound before roots have a chance to form. A strip of old cotton t-shirt, a length of cotton yarn, or a purpose-made plant watering wick all do the job. Cotton plant watering wicks from Amazon are inexpensive and sized for exactly this kind of use. Some synthetic materials tend to wick less reliably and are worth skipping. Others like nylon/poly wicks can actually wick better in some setups.

The container just needs enough volume to stay topped up between checks—a small jar works fine for a single wick. Position it close enough that the wick reaches the node without pulling taut; tension can cause it to shift over time. Wrapping the assembly loosely with clear plastic film helps retain humidity around the wound without fully sealing it, which keeps conditions closer to what roots prefer without the full sealed-wrap setup of traditional air layering.

Which Plants Work With This Method

The wick method is most reliable on plants that already respond well to standard air layering—pothos, philodendrons, rubber plants, monsteras, and most woody houseplants are good candidates. Outdoor shrubs and trees that air layer readily, like magnolias, rhododendrons, and azaleas, are also worth trying. The common thread is that these plants form roots at nodes without much resistance when moisture and a little wounding are combined. Plants that tend to be reluctant rooters through other methods aren’t likely to behave differently here.

Results vary by species and season. Roots tend to develop faster during active growth in spring and early summer than in fall or winter. Once roots are visible through the plastic wrap—or a gentle tug on the wick meets resistance—the branch can be cut below the rooted node and potted up into a well-draining mix. It’s not a method that works on everything, but for the right plant at the right time, the wick runs the operation for you.

Honest Assessment: Does It Actually Work?

It does, with some caveats. The wick method is more consistent than moss wrapping in one specific way: it eliminates the dry-out problem. Sphagnum moss that isn’t checked regularly can drop below the moisture threshold roots need, stalling the process or killing it outright. A wick connected to a water source doesn’t have that failure mode. As long as the reservoir stays filled, the node stays moist. That autopilot quality is the real advantage, and it makes the method genuinely useful for anyone who tends to forget about projects mid-process.

The trade-off is that it’s slightly less controlled than a sealed moss wrap, which holds humidity more precisely around the wound. In very dry environments or during hot weather, evaporation from an unwrapped wick can outpace capillary delivery. The plastic wrap layer helps with this, but it’s worth knowing the limitation exists.

Overall, the wick method is a legitimate propagation tool—not a gimmick. It just works best when the conditions are reasonable and the plant is already inclined to cooperate. The wick handles the moisture. The rest is up to the plant.

Grafting—causing pieces of two plants to grow together into one plant—is an asexual method of propagating plants, just like rooting cuttings. One method of grafting that has much success is called whip and tongue grafting. What is whip and tongue grafting? It involves cutting the two pieces of plant so that they have a more secure fit. Read on for whip and tongue grafting steps.

Getting Comfortable with Grafting

Grafting is the process of joining two pieces of material from two different plants together so that they grow to form a single composite plant. Like rooting cuttings, grafting is a form of asexual plant propagation. Many gardeners who are comfortable with cuttings may hesitate to try their hand at the ancient propagation practice of grafting.

In grafting, each piece of plant is given a name. The bottom portion that contains a root system is called the “rootstock.” The top portion that contains the shoot system is labeled the “scion.” The pieces are placed so that the inner wood or cambium of the two are touching and can grow together.

Generally, gardeners try to combine a scion with desirable fruiting or ornamental characteristics with a hardy or pest resistant rootstock to create a more ideal plant. New “composite” plants created by grafting will produce a shoot system (branches, foliage, flowers, and fruit) that is a genetic copy of the scion’s parent plant.

Advantages of Whip and Tongue Grafting

Nobody can dispute that “whip and tongue” is a curious name for a grafting method, but the reason for the name becomes clear as you understand how it works. Ordinary grafting cuts both the scion and the rootstock on the diagonal, then fixes them together, cut sections touching, so that they can grow together.

In whip and tongue grafting, the gardener makes long, slanted cuts as well on both the scion and rootstock, but also shorter cuts. This creates “tongues” on each piece of plant that interlock, resulting in a tighter, more secure fit than regular grafting. Whip and tongue grafting works best when the scion and the rootstock are the same diameter, no bigger than ½ inch (1 cm.).

Whip and Tongue Grafting Tools

All grafting should be done with a sharp grafting knife, sharpened or beveled on one side for flatter cuts. This means greater surface area contact between cut surfaces. The knife must be razor sharp.

You’ll also need a few more tools, including materials used to hold the scion to the rootstock until the cambium grows together to join them. These materials can be any of several products including masking/grafting tape, orange shellac, rubber band strips, Buddy Tape, grafting wax, or tar.

Whip and Tongue Grafting Steps

The ideal time to graft is in late winter to early spring, from February to early April before growth starts. However, take the scion graftwood some months earlier while the shrub or tree is fully dormant. Each scion should be one year old wood some 6 inches (15 cm.) long that contains several buds.

Let’s use as an example whip and tongue grafting apple trees. The scion will be taken from a cultivar with fruit that you like and want to have more of. The rootstock will be a small sapling currently growing in your home orchard, or else a branch growing from one of your apple trees. Remember that the growing part is the rootstock, not the wood you cut from it.

1. Cut the trunk or branch off the rootstock with a long, slanting cut 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) long made with one pass of the grafting knife.
2. Make the tongue with a cut into the cut section of the rootstock. Start this cut about 1/3 of the distance from the tip of the cutoff tree or branch. Press the grafting knife into the wood until it has made a cut that is about 2/3 of the length of the first rootstock cut.
3. Make a similar sloping cut on the bottom end of the scion, holding the wood with one hand and pushing the knife away from you into the wood with the other hand.
4. Reproduce the tongue cut on the scion in the same way you made it on the rootstock.
5. Press the two tree parts together, matching up the tongues for a snug fit.
6. Wrap the graft area with grafting tape. Pull it tightly to keep out air and keep the pieces securely in place, extending it above and below the graft union. Covering it with orange shellac can assist in keeping moisture in.

Grafting is the process of setting pieces from one tree into another tree so that they will grow there and become part of the new tree. What is a cleft graft? It is one type of grafting technique that requires know-how, care, and practice. Read on for information about cleft graft propagation.

What is a Cleft Graft?

Grafting is done in a variety of different ways to achieve different ends. Reviewing a cleft grafting guide will give you information on when to use cleft grafting techniques and how it is done. The tree to which new material is to be attached is termed the rootstock, while the pieces to be attached are termed “scions.”

In cleft graft propagation, the rootstock tree limb is cut off square and the cut end split. Scions from another tree are inserted in the split and allowed to grow there. In time, one is usually removed.

What is Cleft Grafting For?

Cleft graft propagation is usually reserved for “topwork” in the upper canopy of a tree. That usually happens when a gardener wants to add new cultivar branches to existing trees.

It is also used when a branch has broken and needs to be repaired. Cleft grafting propagation is only appropriate for small scions between ¼ and 3/8 inch (6-10 mm.) in diameter. This technique won’t work to reattach large branches.

How Do You Cleft Graft?

Grafting scions into clefts in rootstock trees requires know-how. If you have access to a cleft grafting guide, it will provide you with helpful photos and illustrations that walk you through the process. We’ll lay out the basics here.

First, you need to get the timing right. Collect the scions in winter and store them in the refrigerator, wrapped in a moist cloth, until it is time to graft. Each scion should be a small limb some 3 to 4 inches (7.5-10 cm.) long with several, large, plump buds. Trim the lower end of each scion with sloping cuts on opposite sides.

Perform the cleft grafting in early spring just as the rootstock plant is starting to grow after winter. Cut off the stock branch square, then carefully split the center of the cut end. The split should be about 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) deep.

Pry open the split. Insert the lower end of a scion into each side of the split, taking care to line up the inner bark of the scions with that of the stock. Remove the wedge and paint the area with grafting wax. Once they start opening their buds, remove the less vigorous scion.

Budding, also known as bud grafting, is a type of grafting in which a bud of one plant is attached to the rootstock of another plant. Plants used for budding may be either a single species or two compatible species.

Budding fruit trees is the principal method of propagating new fruit trees, but it is frequently used for a variety of woody plants. The technique is extensively used by commercial growers.

Although it may seem complicated and mysterious, with a little practice and a lot of patience, budding can be done by home gardeners. As a rule, even beginners have better luck with budding than most other propagation techniques.

Plants and Budding Propagation

Budding basically involves inserting a bud into the rootstock of the other plant. Usually, budding occurs as near the ground as possible, but certain trees (such as willow) are done much higher on the rootstock. It usually takes place where the rootstock grows, with no digging required.

Budding propagation is frequently used to:

• propagate ornamental trees that are difficult to grow by seeds or other means
• create specific plant forms
• take advantage of beneficial growth habits of specific rootstocks
• improve cross-pollination
• repair damaged or injured plants
• increase the growth rate
• create fruit trees that produce more than one type of fruit

What Plants Can be Used for Budding?

Most woody plants are suitable, but a few of the most common plants and trees that use budding include:

Fruit and Nut Trees

• Crabapple
• Ornamental Cherries
• Apple
• Cherry
• Plum
• Peach
• Apricot
• Almond
• Pear
• Kiwi
• Mango
• Quince
• Persimmon
• Avocado
• Mulberry
• Citrus
• Buckeye
• Grapes (chip budding only)
• Hackberry (chip budding only)
• Horse Chestnut
• Pistachio

Shade/Landscape Trees

• Gingko
• Elm
• Sweetgum
• Maple
• Locust
• Mountain Ash
• Linden
• Catalpa
• Magnolia
• Birch
• Redbud
• Black Gum
• Golden Chain

Shrubs

• Rhododendrons
• Cotoneaster
• Flowering Almond
• Azalea
• Lilac
• Hibiscus
• Holly
• Rose

What is inarching? A type of grafting, inarching is frequently used when the stem of a young tree (or houseplant) has been damaged or girdled by insects, frost, or root system disease. Grafting with inarching is a way to replace the root system on the damaged tree. While the inarch graft technique is generally used to save a damaged tree, inarching propagation of new trees is also possible. Read on and we’ll provide some basic information on the inarch graft technique.

How to Do Inarch Grafting

Grafting can be done when the bark slips on the tree, generally about the time buds swell in late winter or early spring. If you are grafting with inarching to save a damaged tree, trim the damaged area so the edges are clean and free of dead tissue. Paint the wounded area with asphalt emulsion tree paint. Plant small seedlings near the damaged tree to use as rootstock. The trees should have flexible stems with a diameter of ¼ to ½ inch (0.5-1.5 cm.). They should be planted very closely, within 5 to 6 inches (13-15 cm.) of the damaged tree. You can also use suckers growing at the base of the damaged tree. Use a sharp knife to make two shallow cuts, 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm.) in length, above the damaged area. The two cuts should be closely spaced at the exact width of the rootstock. Remove the bark between the two cuts, but leave a ¾ inch (2 cm.) bark flap at the top of the cuts. Bend the rootstock and slip the top end under the bark flap. Fasten the rootstock to the flap with a screw and attach the lower portion of the rootstock to the tree with two or three screws. The rootstock should fit firmly into the cut so the sap of the two will meet and intermingle. Repeat around the tree with the remaining rootstock. Cover the inarched areas with asphalt emulsion tree paint or grafting wax, which will prevent the wound from becoming too wet or too dry. Protect the inarched area with hardware cloth. Allow 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) between the cloth and the tree to allow space as the tree sways and grows. Prune the tree to a single stem when you’re sure the union is strong and able to withstand strong wind.

Mayhaws (Crataegus spp.) are delightfully ornamental fruit trees native to the American South. In addition to the indigenous mayhaw strains, cultivars have been developed that yield larger fruit and more generous harvests. Can you graft mayhaws? Yes, you can, and many of the mayhaw cultivars are grafted onto other mayhaw rootstocks. For more information about mayhaw grafting, including tips on how to graft a mayhaw, read on.

About Mayhaw Grafting

With a rounded canopy, attractive leaves and showy white flowers, the mayhaw is a beautiful addition to any garden. Mayhaws are in the same genus as hawthorns, and they produce small fruit resembling crabapples. The fruit is not very tasty right off the tree. However, it is used to make delicious jellies and can be used in other culinary projects. In modern times, mayhaws are increasingly cultivated for their fruit. Often, growers wishing to cultivate mayhaws commercially will graft mayhaw trees onto hardy rootstocks. Grafting a mayhaw, or any tree, involves botanically joining the canopy of one type of tree to the roots of another. The species providing the roots of a grafted tree is called the rootstock. The cultivar is used as the canopy to enhance fruit production. The parts of the cultivar branch to be attached by grafting are stripped of bark. They are tied to a stripped section of the rootstock until the two trees actually grow into each other.

How to Graft a Mayhaw Tree

How can you graft mayhaws? Grafting a mayhaw is best accomplished in late winter, around mid-February. If you are interested in mayhaw grafting, you’ll be happy to learn that the tree grafts easily. In fact, mayhaws will graft with almost any species of hawthorn. However, using a rootstock of mayhaw is the best bet. There are various ways to cut the pieces of cultivar to be grafted onto a rootstock. The types of connections that work best for mayhaw grafting are whip and tongue graft and simple whip graft. A connection called a cleft graft is used for larger trees. The trees used for rootstocks must be compatible with the local climate and soil. Top mayhaw rootstock choices may vary among states and even regions. In Mississippi, for instance, a preferred rootstock is the parsley haw. However, in most states, the top selection for a rootstock is usually a mayhaw seedling.

Grafting is a plant propagation method that many home gardeners are tempted to try their hand at. Once you figure out a technique that works for you, grafting can become a very rewarding hobby. Unfortunately, many gardeners who research how to graft plants are discouraged by confusing tutorials full of technical terms. Here at Gardening Know How, we pride ourselves on providing clear, easy-to-read information for our readers. Grafting is an easy and fun project to try whether you are a beginner or experienced gardener. This article will explain exactly “what is a scion” in plant grafting.

What is a Scion?

The Merriam-Webster Dictionary defines a scion as “a detached living portion of a plant (such as a bud or shoot) joined to a stock in grafting.” In simpler terms, the scion is a young shoot, branch, or bud that is taken from one plant variety to be grafted onto the rootstock of another plant variety. In fruit tree production, for example, scions from different apple trees may be grafted onto an apple rootstock to create a tree that produces several varieties of apples and can self-pollinate. Grafting is especially common in fruit tree production because seed propagation does not result in true to type fruit, and grafting is also a way to quickly grow fruit trees. The fruit that grows from the scion will take on the scion plant characteristics, while the tree itself will have characteristics of the rootstock. For example, dwarf citrus trees are created by grafting the scions of regular citrus varieties on the rootstock of a dwarf variety.

How to Graft a Scion onto Rootstock

Young trees, less than five years old, are best to use for taking scion cuttings. Scions are taken while the plant is dormant, usually from fall through winter, depending on your location and the plant type you are grafting. Scions are taken from last year’s growth, which contains at least two to four buds. The ideal diameter of scions to select should be between ¼ and ½ inches (6 mm. to 1 cm.). It is also important not to use any branches that have signs of pests or disease as scion plants. Use clean, sharp pruners to cut selected scions. Then wrap the sections of cut scions in moist paper towels, moss, or sawdust. Store scions in a cool place, such as the refrigerator, until spring when they can be grafted onto rootstock. How to graft a scion depends on which grafting technique you are planning to try. Scions are used for whip grafting, cleft grafting, side grafting, bridge grafting, and bud grafting. Whip grafting is the most common grafting technique for beginners. In whip or splice grafting, diagonal cuts at about a 45-degree angle are made on both the scion and rootstock. The scion cut is matched up to the rootstock cut, then grafting tape, grafting wax, or rubber bands are used to hold the two pieces together until the cambium layers fuse together. In bud grafting, the scion is just one bud from the selected variety of plant.

Rootstock Basics – Learn About Rootstock For Grafting

Many cultivated fruit trees are pieced together like a jigsaw puzzle. Through a process called grafting, the grower unites a stem and canopy of a desirable cultivar with the stem and roots of a hardy, cold-tolerant cultivar, called the rootstock. Rootstock grafting allows the grower to build the tree to the best possible specifications for their climate and taste. To learn more about fruit tree rootstocks and how they are selected for grafting, read on.

What is Rootstock?

A rootstock is the part of a grafted tree that contains the roots. A rootstock for grafting is selected according to the climate of the region and the grower’s desires. In cold-winter areas, it’s important to use cold-hardy grafting rootstocks so that the fruit trees survive the annual temperature drop. Grafting also accommodates size restrictions; a gardener with a small backyard might select a fruit tree with a semi-dwarf or dwarf rootstock. 

Benefits of Using Rootstock

Since most trees in the wild - and most plants - are grown from seed, it’s natural to think that fruit trees, too, can be grown from seed. But this is not the case with cultivated fruit trees; they are grown from grafted rootstocks. This is the only way that it’s possible to have the variety of fruit you want. 

Fruit trees are not “true-to-type” when grown from seed. Seeds from a Bartlett pear tree won’t grow to produce Bartlett pears. Rather, the seedling will be a unique variety. This is also true of seeds from other cultivated fruit trees. 

This is a primary reason fruit tree rootstocks are used. But it’s not the only one. With rootstocks, you can select the size of the tree as well as its cold hardiness. Rootstocks can also impact disease resistance and the age at which a tree will fruit. For example, apple trees grown on dwarf rootstocks can bear fruit within three years of planting, while those grown on semi-dwarf rootstocks don’t bear fruit until four or five years after planting, and standard trees can take as long as 10 years.

How to Use Rootstock

Rootstocks give you choices when it comes to cultivated fruit trees. But choices are only useful if you know the factors that impact those choices. Match the rootstock to your specific orchard characteristics. Before you go out to buy a fruit tree, learn about your climate including your hardiness zone. Is your region one with plenty of rain? Or do you need the most drought-tolerant tree possible?

Another aspect to take into account is which diseases are prevalent in your area when it comes to a particular type of tree. You may be able to find a resistant rootstock. You can ask someone for assistance at the garden store to find out what else to take into consideration.

Grafting Rootstock

Although it is possible to graft a fruit tree cultivar yourself, grating rootstock is often left to the professionals. When you buy a young fruit tree, it is almost always already grafted. The label information should tell you the cultivar of the scion as well as the rootstock variety. 

If you are wondering how this is done, it’s a little like magic. Rootstocks start their lives as complete fruit trees, trees with a single trunk and a well-developed root system. Most rootstocks will produce some fruit if left to grow naturally, but the fruit is often tiny with poor flavor. When one is selected to serve as the root system of a fruit tree, this is what happens. The grower selects a desirable cultivar that produces the kind of fruit (or flowers) that they want on the tree. Then they cut off shoots from that cultivar that have leaf buds on them. These are inserted under the bark of the rootstock and grow into the rootstock, creating an entirely different tree with the characteristics the grower prefers. 

Fruit trees are great things to have in the landscape. There’s nothing quite like picking and eating fruit from your very own tree. It can be hard to choose just one. Not everyone has the space for several trees, or the time to care for them. Thanks to grafting, you can have as many fruits as you want, all on the same tree. Keep reading to learn more about growing a mixed graft citrus tree.

What is a Mixed Graft Citrus Tree?

Citrus trees with more than one fruit growing on them, often called fruit salad citrus trees, are a great choice for gardeners with big ambitions but little space.

Most commercial fruit trees are actually the product of grafting or budding – while the rootstock comes from one variety of tree, the branches and fruit come from another. This allows gardeners with a range of conditions (cold, tendency toward disease, dryness, etc.) to grow roots that are adapted to their climate and fruit from a tree that might not be.

While most trees are sold with a single type of tree grafted onto the rootstock, there’s no reason to stop there. Some nurseries sell multiple grafted citrus trees. If you feel comfortable experimenting with grafting and budding, you can also try to make your own fruit salad tree.

Growing a Mixed Graft Fruit Tree

As a rule, only fruits within the same botanical family can be grafted onto the same rootstock. This means that while any citrus can be grafted together, the sort of rootstock that supports citrus will not support stone fruits. So, while you can have lemons, limes, or grapefruits on the same tree, you won’t be able to have peaches.

When growing a mixed graft fruit tree, it’s important to keep track of the size and health of the branches and possibly to prune more than usual. If one branch of fruit gets too big, it can draw too many nutrients away from the other branches, causing them to languish. Try to keep your different varieties pruned to roughly the same size in order to divide resources equally.

While browsing plant catalogs or online nurseries, you may have seen fruit trees that bear several types of fruit, and then cleverly named the fruit salad tree or fruit cocktail tree. Or perhaps you’ve seen articles about the unreal looking creations of artist Sam Van Aken, The Tree of 40 Fruits, which are literally living trees that bear 40 different types of stone fruits. Such trees might seem unbelievable and fake, but they actually are possible to make by using the budding propagation technique.

Budding Propagation Technique

What is budding propagation? Propagation by budding is a pretty common method of plant propagation, in which a plant bud is grafted onto the stem of a rootstock plant. Creating bizarre fruit trees that bear many types of fruit is not the only reason for propagation by budding.

Orchard growers frequently use the budding propagation technique to quickly create new dwarf or semi-dwarf fruit trees that take less time to fruit and require less space in the orchard. They do propagation by budding to create self-pollinating fruit trees by grafting trees that cross pollinate each other onto one rootstock tree. This budding propagation technique is also used on holly to create plants that have male and female all on one plant.

How to Propagate Plants by Budding

Budding propagation produces true to type plants, unlike sexual propagation where plants could turn out to be like one or the other parent plant. It can generally be performed on any woody nursery tree, but it does require some skill, patience, and sometimes plenty of practice.

Propagation by budding is done on most plants in spring through summer, but for some plants it is necessary to do the budding propagation technique in winter when the plant is dormant. If you wish to try this, you should research tree budding info and propagation on the specific plant you are propagating.

There are two main types of bud propagation: T or Shield budding and Chip budding. For both methods, it is necessary to use a clean, sharp knife. There are specially made bud knives for this in which the knives have a blade that curves up at the end, and they may even have a bark peeler at the bottom of the handle.

T or Shield budding propagation

The T or Shield budding propagation technique is done by making a shallow T-shaped slit in the bark of the rootstock plant. When done on the right trees at the right time, the bar flaps of the T-shaped slit should easily lift slightly away from the tree. This is important because you will actually be sliding the bud under these flaps of bark.

A nice healthy bud is selected from the plant you wish to propagate and is cut of the plant. The bud is then slid under the flaps of the T-shaped cut. The bud is then secured into place by closing the flaps and wrapping a thick rubber band or grafting tape around the slit, above and below the bud.

Chip budding propagation

Chip budding is done by cutting a triangular chip out of the rootstock plant. Cut down into the rootstock plant at a 45 to 60-degree angle, then make a 90-degree cut at the bottom of the angled cut to remove this triangular portion from the rootstock plant.

The bud is then cut off the plant you wish to propagate in the same way. The bud chip is then placed where the chip of the rootstock plant was removed. The bud is then secured into place with grafting tape.

Mango tree propagation may be accomplished by either planting seeds or through the grafting of mango trees. When propagating by seed, trees take longer to produce fruit and are more difficult to manage than those that have been grafted, thus mango tree grafting is the preferred method of propagation. In the following article, we’ll discuss how to graft a mango tree and other pertinent information of this technique.

Mango Tree Propagation via Grafting

Grafting of mango trees, or other trees, is the practice of transferring a piece of mature, bearing tree or scion to a separate seedling called rootstock. The scion becomes the canopy of the tree and the rootstock the lower trunk and root system. Mango tree grafting is the most reliable and economical method of mango propagation. There are several types of mango recommended for use as rootstock; both Kensington and common mango are suitable, and in South Florida, "Turpentine" is the recommended choice. What matters most is that the rootstock is vigorous at the time of grafting. Its size and age can vary as long as it is strong and healthy. That said, the most common stock should be about 6 months to one year of age. Grafting is not difficult provide you keep a few things in mind. Along with using healthy rootstock, use only healthy scions or bud wood with active buds. Although bud wood can be wrapped in plastic and stored in the refrigerator for a time, for best results, use fresh scion wood. Practice good sanitation. Think about grafting as doing surgery. Attempt your grafting during the warmest months of the year when temps are above 64 F. (18 C.). There are a few grafting methods that are successful with mangos. These include wedge or cleft grafting, chip budding and whip grafting, but the most reliable method is veneer grafting.

How to Graft a Mango Tree

Remember, you want vigorous, healthy rootstock. The chosen seedling stem should be between 3/8 and 1 inch (1 to 2.5 cm.) across, vibrant green in color, free from rot or disease, and showing signs of healthy leaves and buds. Cut the chosen rootstock from the tree about 4 inches (10 cm.) above the soil. Use a very sharp pair of pruning shears or a special grafting knife. Make the cut level and take care not to damage the stem below the cut. Use a knife to split the remaining stem in half going from top to bottom, to about an inch (2.5 cm.) above the soil’s surface. The next step is locating a new growth shoot or scion on an existing mango tree. The thickness of the scion should be equal to or slightly smaller than the harvested rootstock and should have fresh buds and leaves. Cut the 3 to 6 inch (7.5 to 15 cm.) long piece of the scion from the tree and trim back the uppermost leaves. With a knife, make a wedge in the cut end of the scion and slice the bark away along each side to create an angled point. Place the scion wedge into the slot you’ve cut in the rootstock. Be sure they line up. Use grafting tape to secure the rootstock to the scion. Put a plastic bag over the new graft and tie it off at the bottom to create a warm, humid environment and protect the new graft from insects and pests. Once the tree has begun growing, remove the bags. Remove the tape from the graft once the tree produces new leaves. Water the tree, but do not over water after grafting. Suckers are often prevalent post-grafting. Simply prune them out.

Off with your head! Cactus propagation is commonly done by grafting, a process where a cut piece of one species is grown onto a wounded piece of another. Grafting cactus plants is a straightforward method of propagation which even a novice gardener can try. Different species work better with different methods, but a brief cactus grafting guide follows with basic instructions on how to graft a cactus. Cacti comprise some of my favorite plants due to their uniqueness of form and unusual characteristics. Propagation is done through grafting, stem cuttings, leaf cuttings, seed or offsets. Growing cactus from seed is a long process, as germination may be unreliable and growth is at a snail's pace. Broadly, cacti that do not produce offsets can be propagated by grafting as long as there is a compatible rootstock. The grafted part is called a scion and the base or rooted part is the rootstock.

Cactus Grafting Guide

Cacti are grafted for a variety of reasons. One may simply be to produce a different species mechanically, but the process also produces disease-free stems, to provide a new stem for an existing stem that is rotting or to enhance photosynthesis in plants that lack the ability. Grafting cactus plants is also done to create unique forms, such as weeping plants. Grafting is common in fruiting plants because it increases the maturity of an existing cultivar for earlier fruit production. The scion becomes the top part of the plant with all the originating species' characteristics. The rootstock becomes the roots and base of the plant. The union is at the vascular cambium where the wounds of scion and rootstock are sealed together to heal and join. Once the joining wounds have healed, no special grafted cactus care is required. Simply grow it as you would any other plant.

Rootstock Cactus for Grafting

The generally approved rootstocks for grafting cactus are:

• Hylocereus trigonus or undatus
• Cereus peruvianus
• Trichocereus spachianus

Also, if the rootstock and scion are in the same species, the compatibility is excellent. Compatibility decreases as the family relationship decreases. Two plants in the same genus may possibly graft, but two in the same genera are rare, and two in the same family are very rare. The appropriate cactus for grafting are, therefore, the ones in the same species and with as close a relationship as possible for the best outcome.

How to Graft Cactus

Use very clean, sterile instruments when making cuts. Choose healthy plants and prepare a scion. Cut off the top or at least a 1-inch (2.5 cm.) stem. Then prepare the rootstock by beheading a cactus to within a few inches (7.5 cm.) of the soil. Set the scion on top of the cut portion of the still rooted rootstock so both vascular cambium are situated together. Use rubber bands to hold the pieces joined as one. Grafted cactus care is the same as ungrafted cactus. Watch for any insects or rot at the union. In about two months, you can remove the rubber bands and the union should be sealed.

There are few things more crushing than discovering your prize vine or tree has broken a stem or branch. The instant reaction is to try some sort of plant surgery to reattach the limb, but can you reattach a severed plant stem? 

Fixing injured plants is possible as long as you borrow some rules from the process of grafting. This procedure is used to meld one type of plant to another, generally onto rootstocks. You can learn how to reattach broken stems on most types of plants.

Can You Reattach a Severed Plant Stem?

Once a stem or branch has broken off of the main plant, the vascular system that feeds and waters that limb is cut off. This would mean the material would die in most cases. However, if you catch it quickly, you can sometimes splice it back onto the plant and save the piece.

Splice grafting broken plants is a method that will attach the main body back onto the broken stem, allowing the exchange of important moisture and nutrients to sustain the damaged stem. A simple fix can allow you to repair broken climbing plants, bushes, or even tree limbs.

How to Reattach Broken Stems

Fixing injured plants with stems that have not been completely severed is easiest. They still have some connective tissue to feed the tips of the damaged piece, which will help encourage healing and health. The process starts with a stiff support of some kind and plant tape. You are basically making a splint to hold the broken material solidly upright and then some sort of tape to bind it tightly to the healthy material.

Depending on the size of the broken piece, a dowel, pencil, or stake can be used as the stiffening object. Plant tape, like this Velcro Brand ONE-WRAP Ties from Amazon, or even old pieces of nylon are ideal for binding the stem. Anything that expands can be used to reconnect the broken piece to the parent plant.

Splice Grafting Broken Plants

Choose a splint suitable for the size of the stem or limb. Popsicle sticks or pencils are great for smaller materials. Larger tree branches require thicker wood or other hard structures to support the damaged part.

Hold the broken edges together and place the stake or splint along the edge. Wrap closely with a stretchy binding such as nylons, plant tape, or even electrical tape. The binding needs to have some give so the stem can grow. Brace the stem if it is dangling so there is no additional pressure on it as it heals. This is especially important when you repair broken climbing plants.

What Happens Next?

Fixing injured plants with a splice graft is no guarantee it will survive the treatment. Watch your plant carefully and give it excellent care. In other words, baby it.

Some softer stemmed plants will not heal and the material may mold, or bacteria or fungus might have been introduced into the plant.

Thick, woody stems such as tree branches may have exposed cambium which doesn't seal and will interrupt the flow of nutrients and moisture to the damaged limb, slowly killing it.

You can repair broken climbing plants like clematis, jasmine, and indeterminate tomato plants. There are no promises, but you really have nothing to lose.

Try splice grafting broken plants and see if you can save damaged material and the beauty of your plant.

Grafted trees reproduce the fruit, structure, and characteristics of a similar plant in which you are propagating. Trees grafted from vigorous rootstock will grow faster and develop quicker. Most grafting is done in the winter or early spring while both rootstock and scion plants are dormant.

Tree Grafting Techniques

Tree grafting is the most common method used for grafting trees, especially for fruit trees. However, there are various grafting techniques. Each type of grafting is used to accomplish various needs for grafting trees and plants. For instance, root and stem grafting are techniques preferred for small plants.

• Veneer grafting is often used for evergreens.
• Bark grafting is used for larger diameter rootstocks and often requires staking.
• Crown grafting is a type of grafting used to establish a variety of fruit on a single tree.
• Whip grafting uses a wood branch or scion.
• Bud grafting uses a very small bud from the branch.
• Cleft, saddle, splice and inarching tree grafting are some other types of grafting.

Grafting Tree Branches with the Bud Grafting Method

First cut a budded branch from the scion tree. A budded branch is a whip like branch that has mature (brownish) but unopened buds on it. Remove any leaves and wrap the budded branch in a damp paper towel. On the rootstock tree, select a healthy and somewhat younger (smaller) branch. About two-thirds of the way up the branch, make a T cut lengthways on the branch, only deep enough to go through the bark. Lift the two corners that the T cut creates so that it creates two flaps. Remove the budded branch from the protective wrap and carefully slice a mature bud from the branch, being careful to leave a strip of the bark around it and the wood below it still attached. Slip the bud under the flaps in the same direction on the rootstock branch as it was cut from the budded branch. Tape or wrap the bud into place making sure you do not cover the bud itself. In a few weeks, cut the wrapping away and wait for the bud to grow. This can take until the next period of active growth. So if you do your bud grafting in the summer, you may not see growth until spring. Once the bud starts actively growing, cut off the branch above the bud. One year after the bud has started actively growing, cut all branches but the grafted branch off of the tree. Trees grafted with the right kind of rootstock can create a tree that benefits from the best of both the rootstock and scion trees. Grafted trees can make a healthy and beautiful addition to your yard.

Plants are propagated in many ways whether by seed, cuttings, or by grafting. Lime trees, which can be started from hardwood cuttings, are generally propagated from budding a tree or bud grafting instead. Grafting a lime tree using the budding method is easy to do, once you know how. Let's look at the steps to budding lime trees.

Steps for Budding a Tree

1. When to perform lime tree grafting- Lime tree grafting is best done in the early spring. At this time the bark on the tree is loose enough to allow for easy separation of the bud from the mother plant and there will not be any concern of frost or premature growth of the bud while it heals.
2. Choose the rootstock and the budwood plant for lime tree grafting- The rootstock for budding lime trees should be a variety of citrus that does well in your area. Sour orange or rough lemons are the most common, but any hardy variety of citrus trees will do for rootstock when bud grafting a lime tree. The rootstock plant should be young, but at least 12 inches (31 cm.) tall. The budwood plant will be the plant you will be budding a lime tree from.
3. Prepare the rootstock for the lime tree budwood- When budding a tree you will use a sharp, clean knife to cut the rootstock about 6 inches (15 cm.) above the root line. You will make a "T" that is 1 inch (2.5 cm.) long, so that two triangular flaps of bark can be peeled back. Cover the cut with a damp cloth until you are ready to insert the bud. It is very important to keep the rootstock's wound damp until you are done grafting a lime tree.
4. Take bud from desired lime tree- Choose a bud (as in a potential stem bud, not a flower bud) from the desired lime tree to use as the budwood for budding the lime tree. With a sharp, clean knife slice away a 1 inch (2.5 cm.) sliver of the bark with the chosen bud in the center. If the bud will not immediately be put in the rootstock, wrap it carefully in a damp paper towel. The budwood must not dry out before it is placed on the rootstock.
5. Place the budwood on the rootstock to complete the lime tree grafting- Fold back the bark flaps on the rootstock. Place the budwood sliver in the bare spot between the flaps, making sure it is pointing the right way so that the bud will grow in the right direction. Fold the flaps over the budwood sliver, covering as much of the sliver as possible, but leaving the bud itself exposed.
6. Wrap the bud- Secure the bud to the rootstock using grafting tape. Wrap tightly both above and below the rootstock, but leave the bud exposed.
7. Wait one month- You will know after a month if budding the lime is successful. After a month, remove the tape. If the bud is still green and plump, the graft was successful. If the bud is shriveled, you will need to try again. If the bud took, cut away the rootstock stem 2 inches (5 cm.) above the bud to force the bud to leaf out.