Grapes make a wonderful, nutritious snack, but when you have too much of a good thing what do you do? You learn how to make raisins at home of course! How do you make raisins"There are a few different methods: dehydrator, oven dried grapes, and even sun dried grapes. Keep reading to learn how to make raisins in a dehydrator, oven, or under the sun.

Grapes are rich in vitamins and antioxidants, low in calories and fat, and they’re just plain fun to nibble on. Many people grow grapes to make wine, act as a privacy barrier, or to eat fresh from the vine. But when you’ve eaten all the fresh grapes one family can handle, it’s time to dry them and make raisins.

About Raisins

Dried fruit was probably an accidental concept. Likely someone picked up a dried grape or other fruit from the ground and found out that it was quite palatable, and in fact, delicious! Plus it lasted longer in storage than fresh produce. There is evidence that the ancient Egyptians were drying grapes as early as 2000 BC.

The Spaniards brought grapes to California in the late 1700s, finding the climate perfect for wine making. At some point some of those grape growers found that there was profit to be made in producing raisins instead of wine. All this led up to the famous singing California raisin commercials of the 80s.

Commercial growers use only three types of grape to make raisins: Thompson seedless, Muscat of Alexandria, and the Black Corinth. But you can use any type of grape to make raisins, albeit seedless is best.

How to Make Raisins in the Sun

As mentioned, there are three methods to drying grapes. Since grapes are composed of 80% water, expect the drying process to take some time no matter which method you select.

For example, the traditional way to make raisins is to dry them in the sun, but this requires not only hot and dry conditions but at least three to four days of them. If you choose to dry your grapes using this method, cover them so insects and other critters don’t help themselves. Also, it's a good idea to bring them in at night and then return them to the outdoors when the sun rises.

Making Raisins in the Oven

Wash the grapes well. Then you need to break the skins so that moisture can escape the fruit from the inside. There are three methods that will break the skin.

You can blanch the grapes by dunking them in boiling water for 30 seconds and then immediately plunging them into ice water to stop the cooking process. You can pierce each individual grape with the point of a sharp knife, or you can cut each grape in half. The latter two methods are somewhat tedious, however.

Once the skins have been broken, it’s time to dry the grapes. If using an oven, set the oven to 145 degrees F. (63 C). Lay the grapes out on lightly oiled baking sheets. Place the baking sheets in the oven and allow the grapes to dry for up to 12 hours. The timing will vary depending upon the size and type of grape.

As the grapes are drying in the oven, leave the door ajar a couple of inches (2.5 cm) to allow steam to escape. Check the grapes every few hours until they are at the degree of dryness you prefer.

Remove them from the oven when dried and allow to cool completely. Store in an airtight container.

Raisins in the Dehydrator

Place clean grapes (after breaking the skin) on the dehydrator trays. Dry the grapes at 135 degrees F. (57 C). This can take anywhere from 24 to 48 hours. Check on the degree of dryness after about 18 hours and thereafter every five to six until they are sufficiently dried.

The length of time drying takes depends on the type of dehydrator you have, humidity levels, type of grape, etc. The best way to tell if the grapes are done is to remove a few, let them cool, and then taste them. They should be dry but still slightly moist and chewy.

Store in an airtight container once completely cooled. Properly dried raisins can be stored in this manner for months, or even years.

Nothing says New Year’s Eve like a glass of bubbly champagne. Despite the iconic bubbles, champagne is just a sparkling wine made from grapes. This means that it is possible to grow the grapes used for champagne and ring in the New Year by raising a glass of champagne you grew yourself. How do you make champagne? It’s a very precise process. That’s why all champagne is sparkling wine but not all sparkling wine is champagne. Read on for details.

Grapes in Champagne

For a sparkling wine to be classified as champagne, you must use a champagne wine produced from chardonnay, pinot noir, or pinot Meunier varieties in the Champagne region of France. Planting these grapes is the first step toward making a bottle of champagne.

If you want to operate by the rule books, however, there are other restrictions on what can be called champagne. In addition to the mandate that champagne must be made from these grape species, you’ll have to use the traditional method of producing it. This is also called the Méthode Champenoise and is the most expensive method of getting the bubbles into that wine.

Bubble, Bubble, Toil and Trouble

To understand how to make champagne, it helps to start with an even simpler question: what makes champagne bubbly? The key to getting those tiny bubbles into sparkling wine is a process called secondary fermentation. Wines become effervescent when you add a mixture of yeast, sugar, and liqueur de tirage -- a type of wine -- to the wine in a closed container.

When this process gets going, the yeast releases carbon dioxide. Since this is done in a closed container, the carbon dioxide is forced to pass into the wine, resulting in bubbles. When the secondary fermentation begins, the carbon dioxide released by the yeast has nowhere to go but into the wine, making it bubbly. The difference between the methods of producing sparkling wine largely involves where the secondary fermentation occurs.

Champagne Method of Making Champagne

The Champagne method, termed “the traditional method” when used outside of France’s Champagne region, is the classic way to proceed. Experts claim that it produces the highest quality and most complex sparkling wines. It is also the most expensive, labor-intensive, and time-consuming.

That’s because the traditional method mandates that the secondary fermentation take place inside the bottle itself, that is, the bottle in which the Champagne will be sold. The bottle is first capped after the liqueur de tirage is added to the wine. The winemaker reopens the bottle to remove the detritus from the yeast once it has stopped exuding carbon dioxide, a process called riddling.

How does riddling work? The winemaker turns the bottle upside down to drop the yeast sediment into the bottle neck. The bottle is frozen, and when the temporary cap is taken off, the pressure expels the sediment. A sugar-water mixture is added, and a final cork is put into the bottle.

Those gardeners who love orange juice might plant citrus trees. Those who love red wine – like merlot, pinot noir, shiraz, or cabernet sauvignon – can install red wine grapes. That also allows you special celebration rights on National Red Wine Day.

National Red Wine Day

You don’t need an excuse for lifting a glass of red wine with friends. However, there’s one day when it’s particularly appropriate: National Red Wine Day. It’s truly a thing, a national day to celebrate this delightful drink.

When is National Red Wine Day? It’s right at the end of summer, on August 28th. There’s no better way to fete this holiday than drinking a little wine made from your own grapes.

Grapes for Red Wine

Did you know that more grapes are grown in the world than any other perennial fruit crop? Some are for table grapes, others destined for raisins, and a fair amount intended for wine. There are many different types of red wine grapes, usually called varieties. As is the case with other fruit crops, each red wine grape variety does best in particular conditions. Selecting grape varieties that will grow well in your climate and soil is critical. 

Note that grapes don’t do well in locations above 6,000 feet (1,829 m.) in elevation, and even lower elevations can be problematic if there is the risk of frost injury. The winter hardiness of a grape variety depends on its genetic makeup.

Red Wine Varieties

You can think of red wine varieties as falling into one of four general categories which include European grapes, American grapes, and hybrid red wine grapes from America and France. European grapes need a Mediterranean climate, with dry, hot summers and mild winters. They make up most commercial wine production as well as table grape production.

American grapes are grapevine species native to North America and the Caribbean. They are more cold-hardy and tougher when it comes to fighting off disease but are used mostly for juice. Some American hybrid grapes are used for wine including Seneca. 

French hybrids cross American and European varieties to create disease resistant, cold tolerant wine grapes. Resulting red wine grapes include Baco Noir, Chambourcin, Regent, Leon Millot, and Noiret.

Whether you're a home grower or a commercial producer, grapevine frost damage in the spring can severely reduce your yields later in the season. Although grapes are winter hardy plants in many locations, grapevines in the spring are particularly susceptible to frost and freezing temperatures once the buds begin to swell. This is due to an increase in sap flowing in the tissues of the buds and the formation of ice crystals when those fluids freeze.

Preventing Spring Frost Damage to Grapes 

There are cultural practices growers can take to reduce grapevine frost damage in the spring:

Site Selection – Grapevine frost protection begins with choosing a site which offer natural protection from springtime blasts of cold air. Mid-slope is often recommended, as cold air flows downhill creating pockets of cold in lower lying areas. 

Choice of cultivar – Bud break in different varieties of grapes can vary as much as two weeks, with cold hardy varieties coming into the growth season the earliest. Matching those early-breaking varieties with the warmest microclimates allows growers to better protect these cultivars from grapevine frost damage in the spring.

Vineyard maintenance – How the area surrounding grape arbors is maintained also influences the severity of spring frost damage to grapes. Cultivated soil has less heat retention properties than mowed areas. Short grass provides a layer of insulation and is less likely to trap cold air than taller cover.

Prune twice – Early pruning can encourage buds to swell and break. A better method is to hold off winter pruning as long as possible and prune twice, leaving 5 to 8 buds the first time. Once the danger of frost to the grapevines in the spring has passed, prune to the desired number of buds. Retain only those buds which have not been frost damaged. 

Methods of Grapevine Frost Protection

Whenever there’s a threat of freezing temperatures in the spring, there are steps growers can take to prevent grapevine frost damage:

Sprinklers – Water releases a small amount of heat as it freezes which can be significant in reducing the formation of ice crystals inside the buds. The science behind this method requires growers to thoroughly understand how variations in dew point and wind speed affect temperature. Improperly used, sprinklers can generate more grapevine frost damage than if no measures were taken.

Heaters – For large scale operations, fuel costs and environmental issues make this method of protecting grapevines in the spring impractical. Home growers may find heaters doable for the occasional frost or freeze threat to a small arbor. 

Wind machines – These large fans pull down warm air from the inversion layer and work well for radiation frosts. This type of frost occurs on clear, calm nights when daytime temperatures were above freezing. Wind machines are advantageous for growers with seven or more acres.

Covers – Smaller operations and home growers can also prevent spring frost damage to grapes by covering the arbors with blankets or sheets. These must be secured at ground level to prevent cold air from creeping underneath the tent.

Grape leaves have been the Turkish tortilla for centuries. Using grape leaves as a wrap for different fillings kept hands clean and made a portable food item. Reportedly, the practice originated during Alexander the Great's time, during which food was scarce and meat was minced and mixed with other fillings. You can indulge in this traditional Turkish and Mediterranean food source quite easily. All you need are some tips on picking grape leaves and maybe some recipes.

What to Do with Grape Leaves

If you or someone you know has a grapevine that is grown organically, you can make one of the classic Greek staples, dolmas. Also known as dolmades, dolmas are stuffed grape leaves. The classic is only one of many grape leaf uses. Keep reading to find more things to do with grape leaves for a culinary journey around the world.

Original grape leaf uses were as wrappers for a variety of mixed fillings. Today, they have expanded and can be found in sauces, rice and grain dishes, steamed fish, and more. The leaves, when picked fairly young, are tender and tangy when blanched and brined – and commonly used for making grape-leaf pickles. They add a delicate note to many international cuisines, even Latin and Asian.

The leaves may even be incorporated into salads. These versatile leaves are packed with vitamins C, B, K, A, B6, along with iron, niacin, riboflavin, fiber, manganese, copper, folate, calcium, and more. They are low-calorie and make a great substitution for those watching their weight.

Tips on Grape Leaf Harvesting

Experts recommend harvesting leaves in the late spring to early summer. The morning is the best time for picking grape leaves to eat. Make sure the vine you harvest from has not been sprayed. Choose the medium-sized leaves which are big enough to use as wraps but not too tough. Avoid leaves with tears or holes if using them as wrappers.

The leaves should still be shiny and smooth. Avoid any stiff or hairy leaves as they will be too brittle to mold. Wash all the leaves and cut off the stems. Place washed leaves in between moist paper towels in a bag or plastic container. You can use them immediately or freeze them for up to six months.

Preparing Grape Leaves

Once your grape leaf harvesting is over, it is time to cook with them. Whether you are using grape leaves as wraps or in some other recipe, they still need to be prepped. In addition to washing them thoroughly, you might like to make a V cut and snip out the stem which can be tough.

Many chefs believe the leaves should be blanched in boiling water for a couple of minutes or brined. The brine recipe is four parts water to one part salt. Now you are ready to make dolmas, grape leaf pesto, rice, and lentil pilaf with chopped grape leaves, salmon grilled in grape leaves, stuffed leaves with gorgonzola and olives, spinach and grape leaf pie, or whatever recipe is your personal favorite! 

Growing grapevines at home can be an exciting endeavor for many gardeners. From planting to harvest, the process of promoting healthy growth can be quite elaborate. To produce the best crop possible, those wishing to grow grapes will need to carefully consider garden routines such as pruning and fertilization. Irrigation procedures are also a vital aspect. Learning more about properly irrigating grapes can promote more productive harvests each season.

How Much Water Do Grapes Need?

As with any other planting, watering grapes and maintaining adequate moisture levels will directly impact plant health. Grapevine irrigation can vary depending upon the conditions in each growing zone. However, there are some key aspects on which to focus.

When choosing how and when to water grapevines, it will be important to maintain balance. Ideally, the soil should remain adequately moist throughout the entire growing season. This means that water should be available to the plants’ roots at any time.

Drought stress can manifest in grapevines in a wide variety of ways. First, growers may observe the wilting of leaves or tendrils of the plant. If the need for water is too severe, the vines’ flowers may also drop and result in the uneven formation of clusters. Signs of too little water may also include the yellowing of leaves, as well as fruit drop.

Professional grape growers often use periods of water stress to encourage or produce the desired qualities in the mature fruit. However, these techniques will require great familiarity with the cultivar being grown and with the growth timing of each grape plant. For this reason, it is best that most home growers do not attempt these water stress techniques.

Though the grapevines will require consistent moisture, it is important to note that this does not mean that the soil should be excessively wet. Excessively wet soils that are the result of over-irrigation or poor drainage will promote the decline of the plant. These soil conditions can promote root rot of the plants, increase the likelihood of disease in the vines, and cause the loss of soil nutrients.

In irrigating grapes, make certain to avoid overhead spraying. Watering in this manner can promote the development of fungal and bacterial diseases. For many, drip irrigation hoses, which deliver water directly to the root zone, are the best option. Though the need for irrigation will vary depending upon rainfall, most plantings will require about 1 inch (2.5 cm.) of water each week of the growing season.

Most fruiting trees must be cross-pollinated, which means another tree of a different variety must be planted nearby the first. What about grapes? Do you need two grapevines for successful pollination, or are grapevines self-fertile? The following article contains information on pollinating grapes.

Are Grapes Self-Fruitful?

Whether you need two grapevines for pollination depends on the type of grape you are growing. There are three different types of grapes: American (V. labrusca), European (V. viniferia), and North American native grapes called muscadines (V. rotundifolia).

Most bunching grapes are self-fruitful and, thus, do not require a pollinator. That said, they will often benefit from having a pollinator nearby. The exception is Brighton, a common variety of grape that is not self-pollinating. Brighton does need another pollinating grape in order to set fruit.

Muscadines, on the other hand, are not self-fertile grapevines. Well, to clarify, muscadine grapes may bear either perfect flowers, which have both male and female parts, or imperfect flowers, which only have female organs. A perfect flower is self-pollinating and does not need another plant for successful grapevine pollination. An imperfect flowering vine needs a perfect flowered vine nearby to pollinate it.

The perfect flowered plants are referred to as pollinizers, but they also need pollinators (wind, insects, or birds) to transfer the pollen to their flowers. In the case of muscadine vines, the primary pollinator is the sweat bee.

While perfect flowered muscadine vines can self-pollinate and set fruit, they set much more fruit with the aid of pollinators. Pollinators can increase production by as much as 50% in perfect flowered, self-fertile cultivars.

Grapes are cultivated for their delicious fruit used in winemaking, juices, and preserves, but how about wild grapes? What are wild grapes and are wild grapes edible? Where can you find wild grapes? Read on to find out more about wild grapes.

What are Wild Grapes?

Wild grapes are woody, deciduous vines just like cultivated grapes with a voracious growth habit. Some can reach up to 50 feet (15 m.) in length. They also have tenacious, woody root systems that can persist for years, one reason why some people refer to wild grapes as weeds.

Wild grapes use tendrils to anchor onto branches or other surfaces. Their bark is gray/brown and rather shredded looking. They tend to grow higher and thicker than their cultivated counterparts, yet another reason they are termed wild grape weeds since grown unchecked they can overtake other plant species.

Where Can You Find Wild Grapes?

There are dozens of wild grapes found throughout the continent, all of which have large, serrated, three-lobed leaves. Some of the most common wild grape species found in North America are fox grape (V. labrusca), summer grape (V. aestivalis), and riverbank grape (V. riparia). As their names suggest, wild grapes can be found along streams, ponds, roads, and in open woods clambering up trees.

They grow easily and are much less fettered with disease and pests than cultivated grape cultivars, making them quite prolific growers. Another reason they can be classified as wild grape weeds.

Are Wild Grapes Edible?

Yes, wild grapes are edible; however, be warned that eaten right off the vine they may be a bit tangy for some. The grapes taste better after the first frost but are still a bit on the sour side for many palates. They have seeds as well.

Wild grapes are great for juicing and they freeze very well if you don’t have time or the inclination to juice immediately. The juice makes excellent jelly. They can be cooked into dishes and the leaves are edible too. Known as ‘dolma,’ the leaves have long been used in Mediterranean cuisine, stuffed with rice, meat, and various spices.

Identifying Wild Grapes

While there are many species of wild grape, all look much the same but, unfortunately, so do many other native vines. Some of these “copy-cat” vines are edible but unpalatable, while others are poisonous, so identifying wild grapes correctly before ingesting them is of paramount importance.

When scouting for wild grapes, keep in mind that the plant has large, three-lobed leaves with veining that extends from the petiole, shredding bark, forked tendrils for climbing, and fruit that looks the same as cultivated grapes, albeit smaller.

There is another plant that looks almost exactly like wild grape, the Canadian moonseed, which is highly toxic. The differentiating factor here is that Canadian moonseed does NOT have forked tendrils or toothed leaves. Canadian moonseed has smooth foliage. Other plants to watch out for include porcelain berry, Virginia creeper, and pokeweed (which isn’t even a vine but when mixed into a dense thicket is hard to differentiate).

Porcelain berry has grape-like leaves, but berries are blue and white prior to ripening, not green like unripe grapes. Virginia creeper bears purple fruit in the fall, but the leaves are made up of five leaflets with red stems.

Planting grapevines is a great way to introduce perennial fruit into the garden patch. Grape plants, though requiring some initial investment, will continue to reward gardeners for many seasons to come. For the best chance at success, however, it will be important to maintain optimal growing conditions. As with many plants, it is especially important to take the irrigation needs of grapevines into consideration before planting.

The impact of high heat and drought may be one of the greatest factors in choosing which grape cultivars to grow. Let’s learn more about grapes that can tolerate heat and drought-like conditions.

How to Grow Grapes in High Heat and Drought

Before adding grapevines to the garden, it will be important to decide which type is most suitable to your climate. American hybrid grapes are a very popular choice throughout the eastern United States. This is due largely to their disease resistance and adaptability to the region’s wet weather conditions. Those living in hot, dry growing zones may consider adding European vines to their yards.

While most European grapes are specifically used for the production of wine, there are several cultivars for fresh eating and juicing. When growing grapes in dry conditions, European plants are often the best option, as they have shown great tolerance to reduced water. In fact, these drought-tolerant grapes have shown minimal losses in even the driest of growing seasons throughout the United States.

Grapes that can tolerate heat do require some irrigation throughout the growing season. This is especially important after planting, as the vines become established. Once established, European grapevines are known to develop long and deep root systems that assist in their survival of long periods without water.

Many winegrowers use periods of drought to their advantage. Well-timed drought conditions (related to harvest window) can actually enhance the taste of wines that have been produced from these grapes. When growing these grapevines at home, gardeners will benefit from weekly irrigation throughout the entirety of the growing season.

With planning and proper care, growers can expect bountiful harvests of fresh grapes in as little as two years from planting. 

Drought-Tolerant Grapes

To get the most of your grape harvest in hot, dry regions, here are some of the most favorable grapevines that survive drought:

• ‘Barbera’
• ‘Cardinal’
• ‘Emerald Riesling’
• ‘Flame Seedless’
• ‘Merlot’
• ‘Muscat of Alexandria’
• ‘Pinot Chardonnay’
• ‘Red Malaga’
• ‘Sauvignon Blanc’
• ‘Zinfandel’

France can have its Cabernet and Petit Verdot, but here in the U.S.A. we have our own grapes, wild muscadine grapes. Muscadine grape history is rich in this region. Native to the Southeastern United States, wild muscadine grapes (Vitus rotundifolia) have been utilized for over 400 years, first by Native Americans and then by emigrating settlers. While they may not have the same pedigree as their French cousins, muscadine grapes have their own place in history.

History of Muscadine Grapes

Native Americans dried wild muscadine grapes long before European explorers discovered the continent. They used the grapes not only as a food source but also as a source of blue dye. More recently, muscadine grapes have made their way into pies and jellies and the ubiquitous Southern favorite muscadine wine. Enter the early English explorer Sir Walter Raleigh, who in 1584 marveled at the cornucopia of abundance, with muscadine vines growing on everything from the sand to the hills and on the plains and even up into the towering cedars. Wild muscadine grapes are also known as Southern fox grapes or, my favorite, scuppernongs - just because it's fun to say. My entertainment aside, the grape was named 'Scuppernong' after the area in which it was discovered by Isaac Alexander of North Carolina, who originally dubbed this bronze variety 'Big White Grape.' I guess he needed a catchier name.

Additional Information about Wild Muscadine Grapes

As time passed, the name 'Scuppernong' became synonymous with all muscadine grapes. This is actually a fallacy in that scuppernong is only one of a number of cultivars. Dark fruited muscadines are more reliably referred to as Bullis and its variations such as Bullace, Bullet grape, or Bull Grape. While 'Scuppernong' bronze and 'Thomas' black are the most recognizable of the cultivars, 100 years of breeding has yielded new and improved varieties such as Carlos, Doreen, Magnolia, Nesbitt, Noble and Regale, all of which are self-fruitful. Other cultivars such as Fry, Higgins, the aforementioned Scuppernong, and Jumbo require a partner for pollination. Muscadine wine may become more popular outside of the American South. More than 400 years after English explorers lauded the prolific vines, muscadine grapes are in the news as one of the newest health foods. Scientists with the USDA's Agricultural Research Service have noted that the muscadine grape contains large quantities of resveratrol. Resveratrol has been noted in both French red and white wines and is touted as being able to lower cholesterol and the incidence of coronary heart disease. Cheers to that!

You’re so excited to start harvesting your grapes, but there are none on the vine. Perhaps, you planted them last year, fed and pruned as you thought was needed and, still, there are no grapes on the grapevine. After a close look, you find a couple of small, underdeveloped clumps near the bottom. Or maybe you’ve moved to a new location with vines already covering the fence, but your grapevine isn’t fruiting. What a disappointment to find your grapevine won’t produce. Let’s take a look at some reasons this might happen and learn how to get grapes on vines.

Why are There No Grapes?

Vine is too young: In general, your vine will not produce grapes until it is at least three years old. Clusters form on stem growth from the previous year, two-year wood, every year. Too much fertilizer: If you’ve given your grapevine too much nitrogen fertilizer, this can result in lush growth of the foliage and no fruit. This also happens if there is too much nitrogen in the soil. If you believe this is the reason there are no grapes on your vine, do things differently next year. Fertilize your grapes in the future with a product high in phosphorus, the middle number on the fertilizer ratio, such as 10/20/10. Do a soil test to determine what is needed, if possible. Your vines may only need a light feeding of compost tea and mulch during winter. Not enough sunlight from improper pruning: Grapevines need full sun, all over, for a full harvest. Overgrown and unpruned tops block sunlight from reaching areas of the vine. Prune properly for the sun to reach the vine and to promote good air circulation. Remove old wood that is more than two years old. In most areas, prune grapevines during dormancy, usually in late winter. Remove all but four canes on the first pruning and keep them trimmed back thereafter. New growth develops on one-year-old wood, so these canes benefit from full sun especially. Older branches don’t fruit. Prune hard on older vines. Pest and disease: Borers and beetles, along with other pests, sometimes attack the grapevine. Hand pick small numbers and put them in a bucket of soapy water. Prune off infested branches. If it appears you have a heavy insect infestation, spray with a horticulture soap product. A fungal disease, such a powdery mildew and botrytis bunch rot, may also affect the vines. Proper pruning allows good air circulation to discourage these issues. Water your vines at the root, keeping foliage and branches dry, to help avoid them as well. Needs pollination: Most vines produce female flowers, or both male and female flowers, and are pollinated by the wind. Some varieties require a second vine for pollination. Research your grapevine variety to learn of its pollination needs.

Downy mildew on grapes is a serious fungal disease that wreaks havoc in vineyards around the world, especially when the weather is humid, rainy, and mild. The disease affects both wild and cultivated grapes. Grape downy mildew control requires gardening practices that improve growing conditions and minimize water on the leaves. Read on to learn more.

About Grapes with Downy Mildew

Early signs of downy mildew on grapes include small, greenish-yellow spots on the leaves, primarily between the veins. The lesions may be difficult to see, but they will eventually enlarge, and, in severe infections, may turn dark brown and brittle before dropping. Early symptoms of downy mildew on grapes may also appear on tendrils and stems as shiny, water-soaked depressions with fuzzy fungal growth. Young shoots and tendrils are stunted and distorted. Grapes with downy mildew turn soft and light brown, and may be coated with a dense, gray fungal growth. Infected fruit will never develop normally.

Treating Grape Downy Mildew

Penn State Extension recommends spraying grapevines with a fungicide just before blossoms open, seven to 10 days later, and 10 to 14 days after that, followed by a final application three weeks later. If downy mildew on grapes was severe the previous season, you may want to begin the process a little earlier by spraying the vines about two weeks before the first blooms. Your county extension office can help you select the best product for treating grape downy mildew. Additional tips on grape downy mildew control include planting disease-resistant vines, as some varieties are highly susceptible to downy mildew. Choose a planting site where the grapevines are exposed to sunlight all day. Space vines properly to allow sufficient air circulation. Be careful not to overwater. If you use overhead sprinklers, extend the time between watering as much as possible. Otherwise, water at the base of the plant. Ensure the vines are supported so they don’t rest on the soil. Rake the area well at the end of the season to remove diseased plant debris. Cultivate in the spring to bury infected leaves and mummified berries that may remain from the previous growing season. Prune grapevines annually, during the dormant period. Leave only strong, healthy growth from the previous year. Control weeds and tall grass around the plants and in the surrounding area. Note: Any recommendations pertaining to the use of chemicals are for informational purposes only. Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and more environmentally friendly.

Dead arm is the name of a grapevine disease that has all but been phased out, since it was discovered that what was thought to be one disease was, in fact, two. It is now commonly accepted that these two diseases should be diagnosed and treated separately, but since the name “dead arm” still comes up in literature, we will examine it here. Keep reading to learn more about recognizing and treating dead arm in grapes.

Grape Dead Arm Info

What is grape dead arm? For about 60 years, grape dead arm was a widely recognized and classified disease known to affect grapevines. Then, in 1976, scientists discovered that what had always been thought to be a single disease with two distinct sets of symptoms was, in fact, two different diseases that almost always appeared at the same time. One of these diseases, Phomopsis cane and leaf spot, is caused by the fungus Phomopsis viticola. The other, called Eutypa dieback, is caused by the fungus Eutypa lata. Each has its own distinct set of symptoms.

Grape Dead Arm Symptoms

Phomopsis cane and leaf spot is usually one of the first diseases to appear in the vineyard’s growing season. It manifests as small, reddish spots on new shoots, which grow and run together, forming large black lesions that can crack and cause the stems to break off. Leaves develop yellow and brown spots. Eventually, fruit will rot and drop off. Eutypa dieback usually shows itself as lesions in the wood, often at pruning sites. The lesions develop under the bark and may be hard to notice, but they tend to cause a flat area in the bark. If the bark is peeled back, sharply defined, darkly colored lesions in the wood can be seen. Eventually (sometimes not until three years after infection), the growth beyond the canker will begin to show symptoms. This includes stunted shoot growth and small, yellowed, cupped leaves. These symptoms may disappear in midsummer, but the fungus remains and the growth beyond the canker will die.

Grape Dead Arm Treatment

Both diseases that cause dead arm in grapes can be treated by application of fungicide and careful pruning. When pruning vines, remove and burn all dead and diseased wood. Leave only obviously healthy branches. Apply fungicide in the spring. When planting new vines, choose sites that receive full sunlight and lots of wind. Good airflow and direct sunlight go a long way in preventing the spread of fungus.

Galls occur on many varieties of plants. They may be simple eye sores or potentially deadly, depending upon the source of the infection. Crown gall of grapes is caused by a bacterium and can girdle the vines, causing loss of vigor and sometimes death. The galls are observed on the vines but rarely on the roots. Crown gall on grape is caused by the villain, Agrobacterium vitus. Grapevine crown gall control can be difficult but several selection and site tips can help prevent it.

What is Crown Gall of Grapes?

Grape crown gall is introduced to vines through some method of injury. The pathogen itself can live for years in buried plant material and can even survive extended freezing temperatures. Grapes with crown gall will slowly starve to death but initial symptoms may be hard to observe. Grapes with crown gall may by symptomatic or asymptomatic. Plants in the latter case are almost impossible to diagnose. Symptomatic plants develop unusual tissues called galls. They look like pale, fleshy tissue, a bit like blisters. Crown gall on grape may be evident on the vines, trunks, or roots. One of the more common infection sites is the graft union. The pathogen is introduced during grafting and, although plants may appear to grow, over time the bacterium causes the vascular tissue to girdle or constrict. This impedes the exchange of water and nutrients and slowly the vine will fail. Grape crown gall is more prevalent in the northeast. This is due to the severe winter weather vines experience, which can cause freeze injury and invite the disease into the plant material. The bacteria actually introduce a copy of its DNA to the vine. The DNA stimulates the production of the hormones auxin and cytokinin, which cause the plant to produce abnormal tissue. New galls are evident in June to July after freeze injury introduction. New vines or mature plants may be infected. The trouble in a vineyard situation is that the disease can persist for two years or more on dropped plant material and perhaps longer in grapevine roots.

Grapevine Crown Gall Control

There are several steps to prevent introduction of the disease to the vineyard. The first is to only purchase and plant certified disease-free vines. There are a few rootstocks that appear to be resistant to the disease. Remove and destroy infected plants and material. Avoid planting vines in frost pockets and hill up young plants to protect the graft union. Do not encourage late season growth, which will not harden off before winter. Using potash instead of nitrogen can help improve cold resistance and, therefore, frost injury. There are no tried and true chemicals for management of the disease but application of copper may help control crown gall in grapes.

Grapevine leafroll virus is a complex disease and a destructive one. Nearly 60 percent of crop losses in grapevines around the world each year are attributed to this disease. It is present in all grape-growing regions of the world and can impact any cultivar or rootstock. If you grow grapevines, you need to be aware of leafroll and what you can do about it.

What is Grapevine Leafroll?

Leafroll of grapes is a viral disease that is complicated and difficult to identify. The symptoms are not always obvious until well into the growing season, but sometimes there are no visible symptoms that a grower can recognize. Other diseases cause symptoms that may be just like those of leafroll, complicating the situation even more. Symptoms are more prominent in red grapes. Many white grape varieties show no signs at all. The symptoms can also vary by the age of the vines, the environment, and the grapevine variety. One of the most common signs of leafroll is the rolling, or cupping, of the leaves. On red grapevines, the leaves may also turn red in the fall, while the veins remain green. Vines affected by the disease are also generally less vigorous. The fruit may develop late and be of poor quality with reduced sugar content. The overall yield of fruit on infected vines is usually significantly reduced.

Managing Grapevine Leafroll

Grapevine leafroll virus is transmitted largely by infected plant material, such as using pruning tools an infected vine and then a healthy vine. There may be some transmission through mealybugs and soft scale as well. Leafroll control, once the disease is established, is challenging. There is no treatment. Tools used on vines should be disinfected with bleach to prevent spread of the virus. The only way to make sure that grapevine leafroll stays out of your vineyard is to use only certified, clean vines. Any vines you put in your yard and garden should have been tested for the virus, among others. Once the virus is in a vineyard, it is impossible to eliminate it without destroying the vines.

When it comes to growing grapes, the options are limitless. While many gardeners choose to grow vines for fresh eating, others may seek out varieties more specifically suited for use in wines, juices, or even jellies. Although there are a plethora of options in terms of type, many of the same issues may afflict vines. Preventing and identifying specific causes of grapevine decline is the key to bountiful harvests of homegrown grapes. This article focuses on grape vein clearing virus (GVCV) information.

What is Grape Vein Clearing Virus?

Over the last few decades, occurrences of vein clearing of grapes have appeared in the United States, across the Midwest and in parts of the South. Though the decline in health of grapevines with vein clearing virus may not be immediately noticeable, plant growth may become stunted over time. Additionally, grape clusters produced may be reduced in size, misshapen, or even have undesirable textures. One of the most noticeable and obvious vein clearing symptoms occurs in the veins of grapevine leaves. Foliage of the plants begin to take on a yellow, almost clear appearance. It’s important to note that this may not occur on all the leaves. Additionally, there may be other foliage-related abnormalities present which may signal a decline in plant vitality. Among infected vines, growers may notice that new leaves are much smaller, may be deformed, show signs of yellowing, and/or have a crinkled-like appearance. Foliar issues usually appear first in young leaves, and later, affect the vine as a whole.

Preventing Vein Clearing of Grapes

While the cause of this grapevine virus is not yet completely clear, there are some ways in which to avoid infected plants. Some evidence suggests various insects may play a role in the transmission of the virus from plant to plant, but studies have not yet determined which pests may be responsible. Keep your plants weed free to avoid unwanted pests from the area and apply organic pesticides, like neem oil, when necessary. Grafting and grapevine propagation through infected stem cuttings are common means by which the virus is quickly spread within vineyards. Make sure that all propagation tools are well sterilized and choose only the healthiest looking cuttings for rooting or grafting. Even though there are some varieties of grape that demonstrate an apparent resistance to GVCV, ensuring that purchased and propagated plants are disease-free is the best form of prevention.

Occasionally, we all have a plant that is not doing its best and failing for no apparent reason. We’ve inspected the entire plant and the soil and have not seen anything unusual, no pests or bugs, no signs of disease. When we remove the plant from the ground, however, we see formidable swelling and galls among the roots. This is a classic case of the root knot nematode. This article covers what to do for root knot nematodes of grapevines.

About Grape Nematodes

It not only happens with grapevines; many plants may fall victim to grape root knot nematodes as well. These plant parasitic nematodes, microscopic in size, are possibly in the soil before planting and destructive in full orchards or gardens. Root knot nematodes of grapes feed on and cause swelling in young roots and secondary roots, creating galls. These nematodes may be transported in soil, particularly waterlogged soil that rushes down hills with strong rainfall. Grape root knot nematode may exist in water as it moves. You never know if there are root knot nematodes of grapes, or other damaging nematodes, in the soil before you plant. Diagnoses of soil samples at the appropriate laboratory is the only way to know for sure. Reports from previous crops grown in the field or orchard may provide information. However, aboveground signs from nematodes are not conclusive. Symptoms such as reduced growth and vigor, weak limbs, and reduced fruiting may be the result of root knot nematodes but can be caused by other issues. Root knot nematodes of grapes display irregular damage patterns.

Root Knot Nematode Control

Root knot nematode control is often a complicated, lengthy process. Letting the ground lay fallow helps decrease the nematode population, as does planting cover crops that don’t feed the organisms, but these practices do not prevent re-infestation. Fumigation of the soil is sometimes helpful. Soil amendments such as compost or manure help produce a better crop. Likewise, proper irrigation and fertilization help vines resist damage. Keeping your grapevines healthy makes them better able to withstand the effects of grape nematodes. Beneficial nematodes may help but don’t fully get rid of them. There is no known way of preventing root knot nematodes. According to the University of Florida, the following practices can help avoid some of the damage:

• Buy resistant seeds, marked with an "N"
• Avoid moving infected soil, by hand or with farm tools
• Rotate crops and plant with those known to reduce nematode populations, such as broccoli and cauliflower
• Solarize the soil
• Amend the soil with nutritious materials, such as shellfish fertilizer

Anthracnose is an extremely common disease of many types of plants. In grapes, it is called bird's eye rot, which pretty much describes the symptoms. What is grape anthracnose? It is a fungal disease that is not native and was probably introduced from Europe in the 1800's. While mostly a cosmetic disease, grapes with anthracnose are unsightly and commercial value is reduced. Luckily, preventive grape anthracnose treatment is available.

Grape Anthracnose Info

Spotty grapes? This could be caused by anthracnose on grapevines. The problem also affects the shoots and leaves and may result in reduced vigor in vines, affecting production and appearance. Many commercial crops and ornamental plants develop this fungal disease, especially in wet, warm periods. As with any fungal disease, the condition is contagious and spreads readily in vineyard situations. The signs of brown lesions on leaves and stems may be the first symptoms of anthracnose on grapevines. The disease resembles the damage from hail, creating necrotic, irregular spots with darkened haloes. Infected sites crack and cause vines to be brittle. Over time, the spots gather together into larger lesions that are sunken and may have reddish brown, raised edges. These raised edges distinguish the fungus from hail injury and may occur on any side of the stems and leaves. In fruit, the centers are light gray surrounded by thick, dark margins, giving the name bird's eye rot to the disease. You can still eat the grapes but affected fruit may crack and mouth feel and taste are depleted. Grapes with anthracnose are suffering from the fungus Elsinoe ampelina. It overwinters in plant debris and soil, and comes to life when conditions are wet and temperatures are above 36 degrees F. (2 C.). The spores spread through splashing rain and wind, which makes it easy to contaminate an entire vineyard quickly if not controlled. At higher temperatures, the infection progresses rapidly and symptoms can be seen 13 days after exposure. According to grape anthracnose info, fruiting bodies form on the lesions and cause a second source of introduction. These fruiting bodies make it possible for the disease to continue to spread throughout the growing season.

Grape Anthracnose Treatment

Start with disease free vines from reputable suppliers that are resistant to the fungus. Avoid the French hybrids, which are susceptible to the disease and Vinus vinifera. In established vineyards, sanitation proves to be an important control. Clean up old plant debris and destroy infected material. Prune out infected vines and remove diseased fruit. Apply liquid lime sulfur in early spring, just before buds break. The spray kills the initial spores and prevents further development of the disease. If disease has been discovered during the growing season, there are several fungicides recommended but none provide as complete control as the early season liquid lime sulfur application.

Powdery mildew is a common disease of many plant species, including grapes. Though powdery mildew on grapes is generally considered less worrisome or damaging than black rot or downy mildew on grapes, when left uncontrolled powdery mildew can kill grape plants. Continue reading to learn more about grape powdery mildew symptoms, as well as tips on treating powdery mildew on grapes.

What Causes Grape Powdery Mildew?

Grape powdery mildew is caused by the fungal pathogen Uncinula necator. While it was previously believed that this fungal pathogen over wintered on buds, recent studies indicate that it actually overwinters in cracks and crevices on the grape’s bark. In spring, when temperatures range steadily above 50°F. (10°C.), the fungus becomes active and spores stick to plant tissues that are damp from spring rain or dew. Usually, the first grape powdery mildew symptoms are light chlorotic spots on the foliage. This symptom often goes unnoticed. Shortly after, white to light gray, slightly fuzzy or woolly patches will appear on both the under and upper sides of the foliage. These patches will merge into much larger patches. Powdery mildew can affect any green tissues of the plant. Infected foliage may be distorted, stunted and drop from the plant. When flower or fruit clusters are infected, the same white patches will develop and flowers or fruit will drop prematurely. White patches may even develop on the grapes.

Grape Powdery Mildew Control

When treating powdery mildew on grapes, prevention is always the best defense. Keep grapevines trimmed and trained to promote air circulation all around and throughout the plant. Also, planting grapes in full sun rather than part shade can reduce a lot of fungal and issues. Keep the area around grape plants free of garden debris and weeds. Keeping your gardening tools clean and sanitized prevents the spread of many plant diseases too. Powdery mildew can effectively be treated by fungicides if the timing and conditions of application are right. A regiment of preventative fungicides, labeled for powdery mildew on edibles, can be started in early spring and reapplied every 7-14 days until the grape plant begins to bloom. After blooms open, only light fungicidal summer oils may have any effectiveness against the disease, but usually fungicide application is a waste in mid to late summer.

When new to growing grapes, it may be very concerning to look at your dense grapevines one spring day and see what appears to be warts all over the grape leaves. This is a legitimate concern, as wart-like galls on grape leaves are a tell-tale sign of grape root aphids. What are grape root aphids? Continue reading for that answer, as well as grape root aphid treatment options.

How to Recognize Phylloxera Symptoms

Grape root aphids are not actually aphids. They are simply small insects that look like aphids and cause great destruction to their host plant – grapes. Grapevine aphids are scientifically known as grape Phylloxera or Daktulosphaira vitifoliae. They are small insects, which overwinter as nymphs on grape roots beneath the soil. In spring, when soil temperatures stay consistently around 60 degrees F. (16 C.), the insects become active, feeding on grape roots, maturing into adults, and then breeding. The female crawls up to the foliage where she creates galls to lay eggs in. These wart-like galls may be the only visible phylloxera symptoms. When the eggs hatch, young grape root aphids make their way back down to the roots or move onto the roots of other grapevines where the cycle continues. Occasionally, winged types of phylloxera are seen. Meanwhile, male and young phylloxera feed on the roots of grapevines, causing young root shoots to swell and turn yellow. Older roots that are fed on by grape root aphids will turn mushy and die. These two grape root aphid problems occur from a secondary fungal infection that the phylloxera inject as they feed. When these grape root aphid problems get out of hand, affected vines will grow stunted and produce little to no fruit. Phylloxera grape root aphids specifically infect roots in clay soil. They are not a pest in sandy soils.

Grape Root Aphid Treatment

When treating grape root aphids, chemical controls are oftentimes ineffective because the insecticides cannot penetrate heavy clay soils or leaf galls. A foliar insecticide can be used in spring, weekly or biweekly, to kill the insects as they move from roots to leaves. However, the best offense is a good defense. When purchasing grapevines, select only grafted phylloxera resistant varieties. Grapevine aphids can also be transported from plant to plant on shoes, clothing, tools, and equipment. Therefore, it is best to only care for one plant at a time and then properly sanitize everything before working with another plant.

Grapes are woody, perennial vines that just naturally like to clamber up things. As the vines mature, they tend to get woody and that means heavy. Of course, grapevines can be allowed to climb up an existing fence to lend them support, but if you don’t have a fence where you want to put the grapevine, another method of supporting the grapevine must be found. There are many types of grapevine support structures-- from simple to complex. The following article discusses ideas on how to make a grapevine support.

Types of Grapevine Support Structures

Support is needed for grapevines to keep the new shoots or canes and fruit off the ground. If the fruit is left in contact with the ground, it will likely rot. Also, support allows a greater area of the vine to gain sunlight and air. There are a number of ways to support a grapevine. Basically, you have two choices: a vertical trellis or a horizontal trellis.

• A vertical trellis uses two wires, one about 3 feet (1 m.) above ground to allow for good air circulation under the vines, and one about 6 feet (2 m.) above ground.
• A horizontal system uses three wires. One wire attaches to the post about 3 feet (1 m.) above ground and is used for trunk support. Two parallel wires are attached horizontally to the ends of 4 foot (1 m.) long cross arms secured to posts 6 feet (2 m.) above ground. These horizontal lines hold the canes in place.

How to Make a Grapevine Support

Most people use a vertical trellis system. This system uses posts that are either wood treated for ground use, PVC, or galvanized steel or aluminum. The post should be 6.5 to 10 feet (2-3 m.) in length, depending on the size of the vine and you will need three of them. You will also need at least 9-gauge galvanized aluminum wire or up to 14-gauge, again depending upon the size of the vine. Pound a pole 6 inches (15 cm.) or so into the ground behind the vine. Leave 2 inches (5 cm.) of space between the pole and the vine. If your poles are more than 3 inches (8 cm.) across, this is where a hole digger comes in handy. Backfill the hole with a mix of soil and fine gravel to solidify the pole. Pound or dig a hole for another post about 6 to 8 feet (2 m.) from the first and backfill as before. Pound or dig a hole between the other two posts for a center post and backfill. Measure 3 feet (1 m.) up the posts and drive two screws halfway into the posts on either side. Add another set of screws near the top of the posts at around 5 feet (1.5 m.). Wrap the galvanized wire around the screws from one post to the other at both the 3 foot (1 m.) and 5 foot mark (1.5 m.). Tie the vine to the center post with landscape ties or twine at 12 inches (31 cm.) high. Continue to tie the vine every 12 inches (31 cm.) as it grows. As the vine matures, it thickens and the ties can cut into the trunk, causing damage. Keep a close eye on the ties and remove those that become too tight and re-secure with a new tie. Train the vines to grow along the top and middle wire between the posts, continuing to tie them every 12 inches (31 cm.). Another idea for supporting a grapevine is by using pipes. The author of the post I read recommends using Klee Klamp fittings. The idea is much the same as above only using pipe fittings instead of posts and galvanized wire. Even a combination of materials will work as long as everything is weatherproof and sturdy and assembled properly. Remember, you want to have your vine for a long time, so take the time to make a strong structure for it to grow on.

“Oh, Beulah, peel me a grape.” So says Mae West’s character ‘Tira’ in the movie I’m No Angel. There are several interpretations of what that actually means, but suffice it to say that thick skinned grapes actually exist and very well might need to be peeled. Let’s learn more about thick grape skins.

Grapes with Thick Skin

Grapes that have thick skin were actually the norm at one time. It’s taken over 8,000 years of selective breeding to create the types of grapes we use today. Ancient grape eaters might very well have had someone, no doubt a slave or servant, peel the thick-skinned grapes and not only to remove the tough epidermis but also to remove the unpalatable seeds. There are many different varieties of grapes, some grown for specific purposes and some with crossover uses. Grapes grown for wine, for instance, have thicker skins than edible varieties do. Wine grapes are smaller, usually with seeds, and their thicker skins are a desirable trait for winemakers, as much of the fragrance is derived from the skin. Then we have muscadine grapes. Muscadine grapes are native to the southeastern and south-central United States. They have been cultivated since the 16th century and are well adapted to these warm and humid climates. They also need fewer chilling hours than other types of grapes. Muscadine grapes (berries) range in color and, as mentioned, have an incredibly tough skin. Eating them involves biting a hole in the skin and then sucking out the pulp. Like all grapes, muscadines are an excellent source of antioxidants and dietary fiber, much of it in the tough skin. So, while discarding the skin might be more palatable, eating some of it is incredibly healthful. They are also used to make wine, juice, and jelly. Large grapes, sometimes bigger than a quarter, muscadines grow in loose clusters rather than bunches. They are, therefore, harvested as individual berries rather than clipping whole bunches. When ripe, they exude a rich aroma and are easily slid from the stem. Seedless grapes are also more likely to have thick skin. Due to popular preference, seedless varieties were bred from cultivars such as Thompson Seedless and Black Monukka. Not all seedless grapes have thick skins but some, like ‘Neptune,’ do.

Grapevines are often pruned in the early spring prior to bud break. A somewhat surprising result might be what looks like a grapevine dripping water. Sometimes, grapes leaking water appear cloudy or even mucus-like, and sometimes, it really does look like the grapevine is dripping water. This phenomenon is natural and is referred to as grapevine bleeding. Read on to find out about bleeding in grapes.

Help, My Grapevine is Dripping Water!

Grapevine bleeding may happen at any time during active growth, usually when heavy pruning has been done. As soil temps reach 45 to 48 degrees F. (7-9 C.), root growth surges, leading to a jump in xylem activity. Xylem is the woody support tissue that carries water and minerals from the root systems through the stem and into the leaves. Bleeding in grapes usually only occurs during the dormant period of growth if there is plenty of water available to the roots. If it has been a dry year, the vines often don’t bleed when pruned. So, what is happening when grapes are leaking this water-like substance? The grapevine is drawing water, and as this water pushes against the newly cut surfaces that have not yet been callused, it oozes from there. The bleeding sap can last up to two weeks. Is there any danger to a grapevine leaking like this? Some suggest that low concentrations of minerals and sugars are leaking out, which are vital to the vine’s frost protection. So, if the vine loses this frost protection, it could be at risk in the advent of further frosts. Also, grapevine bleeding can affect field grafts done in the spring. Proper pruning techniques can reduce or divert bleeding. The idea is to prevent the sap from oozing down the canes and “drowning” vital buds or graft sites. To protect the buds, cut the wood at a slight angle to create an area where the water can run between the buds below. In the case of protecting a graft site, cut at the base of the vine on either side to divert the bleeding from the graft site to the trunk base. Or bend long canes slightly downward to ease draining.

Growing grapes is a labor of love, but it ends in frustration when, despite your best efforts, the vines yellow and die. In this article, you’ll learn to identify and treat grapevine yellows disease.

What is Grapevine Yellows?

Several problems lead to grapevine leaves turning yellow, and some of them are reversible. This article deals with a specific group of diseases called grapevine yellows. It is fatal, but you may be able to stop it before it spreads throughout your vineyard. Tiny microorganisms called phytoplasma cause grapevine yellows. These little bacteria like creatures lack a cell wall and can only exist inside a plant cell. When planthoppers and leafhoppers eat an infected grape leaf, the organism mixes with the insect’s saliva. The next time the insect takes a bite out of a grape leaf, it passes on the infection.

Additional Grapevine Yellows Information

Grapevine yellows disease causes very specific symptoms that you’ll have no trouble identifying:

• Leaves of infected plants turn under in such a way that they take on a triangular shape.
• Shoot tips die back.
• Developing fruit turns brown and shrivels.
• Leaves may yellow. This is especially true in light colored varieties.
• Leaves become leathery and break easily.

You may only see these symptoms on one shoot, but within three years the entire vine will show symptoms and die. It’s best to remove infected vines so that they don’t become a source of infection for feeding insects. Although you can easily identify the symptoms, the disease can only be confirmed by laboratory tests. If you’d like to confirm the diagnosis, your Cooperative Extension agent can tell you where to send plant material for testing.

Treatment for Grapevine Yellows

There is no treatment for grapevine yellows that will reverse or cure the disease. Instead, focus you attention on preventing the spread of the disease. Begin by getting rid of the insects that transmit the disease – leafhoppers and planthoppers. Ladybugs, parasitic wasps and green lacewings are natural enemies that can help you keep them in control. You can find insecticides labeled for use against planthoppers and leafhoppers at a garden center, but keep in mind that insecticides will also reduce the number of beneficial insects. Whatever method you choose, you can never completely eliminate the insects. The phytoplasma responsible for grapevine yellows disease has many alternative hosts, including hardwood trees, fruit trees, vines, and weeds. The alternative hosts may not exhibit any symptoms. It’s best to plant grapevines at least 100 feet (30 m.) from a wooded area and keep the site weed free.

Growing your own grapes is a rewarding hobby whether you’re a wine enthusiast, want to can your own jelly, or just want a shaded arbor to lounge under. To get the healthiest vines that produce the most fruit, consider companion planting with grapes. Plants that grow well with grapevines are those that lend a beneficial quality to the growing grapes. The question is what to plant around grapes?

Companion Planting with Grapes

Companion planting is an age-old art of planting different plants in close proximity to each other to benefit one or both. There may be mutual benefits or only one plant may profit. They may repel pests and disease, nourish soil, provide shelter to beneficial insects, or shade other plants. 

Companion plants may act as natural trellises, retard weeds, or help retain moisture. There are a number of plants that grow well with grapevines. Be sure to choose companions for grapes that have similar growing requirements. 

That is, grapes need full sun with warm to moderately warm temperatures, consistent water, and well-draining soil, so their companion plants should too.

What to Plant around Grapes

Excellent companions for grapes include:

• Hyssop
• Oregano
• Basil
• Beans
• Blackberries
• Clover
• Geraniums
• Peas

In the case of hyssop, bees love the flowers while the rest of the plant deters pests and improves the grape’s flavor. 

Geraniums also repel pests, such as leafhoppers. Blackberries provide shelter for beneficial parasitic wasps, which also kill leafhopper eggs. Clover increases soil fertility. It is an excellent groundcover, green manure crop, and nitrogen fixer. Legumes act in much the same way and can give you a second vertical crop yield by planting them once the grapevines are established. 

The beans then trellis up through them. Other plants make good companions for grapevines due their pest repellant qualities. These include aromatic plants such as:

• Garlic
• Chives
• Rosemary
• Tansy
• Mint

Grapes don’t just get along with herbs and flowers. They do well planted under elm or mulberry trees and coexist peacefully. 

Note: Just as people don’t always get along, such is the case with grapes. Grapes should never be planted near cabbage or radishes.

Whether you own a vineyard or have just a plant or two in the backyard, grapevine pests are a serious hazard. Some of these pests are grapevine bud mites. These tiny, microscopic grubs feed on the bud material that ought to become new shoots, leaves, and grapes. Keep reading to learn more about mites on grapevines and grape bud mite control.

Mites on Grapevines

Grapevine bud mites are tiny, about 1/10th of a millimeter long, to be exact. Their size, coupled with their clear to white coloring, makes them impossible to see with the naked eye. You can spot them with a microscope, but the more common and much easier method is to wait for telltale signs of damage. The presence of grapevine bud mites can result in buds that are blackened, covered in white fuzz, and/or have a bubbly, rippled appearance to the surface. It can also lead to stunted, misshapen, or dead buds on your grapevine plants. The best time to detect the presence of bud mites is in the spring, before or after bud burst.

Controlling Grape Bud Mites

You can find bud mites on grapevines all year long-- a population will go through many generations during the growing season, but the adults born in the autumn will overwinter inside the plant. One method of grapevine bud mite control is releasing beneficial mites that feed on bad ones. Of course, make sure that this new species of mite is amenable to your local environment before you go anywhere near it. Another popular means of controlling grape bud mites is to spray large amounts of sulfur on the vines to kill off the mite populations. Spray during the budding period when the temperature is at least 60 degrees F. (15 C.). Spray again one week later.

Seedless grapes are rich in flavorful juiciness without the bother of pesky seeds. Most consumers and gardeners may not give a lot of thought to seedless grapes facts, but when you stop to think about it, exactly what are seedless grapes and without seeds, how does a seedless grape reproduce? Read on for answers to those questions, and more.

What are Seedless Grapes?

If you’re concerned that seedless grapes are the result of some sort of genetic modification or weird scientific wizardry, you can relax. The first seedless grapes actually came about as a result of a natural (not laboratory produced) mutation. Grape growers who noticed this interesting development got busy and grew more seedless grapes by planting cuttings from those vines. How does a seedless grape reproduce? The seedless grapes you see in the supermarket are propagated the same way – through cuttings that produce clones of an existing, seedless grape variety. Most fruits, including cherries, apples, and blueberries, are produced in this manner. (Citrus fruits are still propagated the old-fashioned way – by seed.) Often, seedless grapes have tiny, unusable seeds.

Seedless Grape Varieties

There are many different types of seedless grapes, with seedless grape varieties available to home gardeners in nearly every climate across the country. Here are just a few: ‘Somerset’ tolerates chilly temperatures as far north as USDA plant hardiness zone 4. This heavy-bearing vine produces sweet grapes with an unusual flavor that is reminiscent of strawberries. ‘Saint Theresa’ is another hardy seedless grape suitable for growing in zones 4 through 9. This vigorous vine, which produces attractive purple grapes, grows well on a screen or arbor. ‘Neptune,’ suitable for zones 5 through 8, produces large, juicy, pale green grapes on showy vines. This disease-resistant variety ripens in early September. ‘Joy’ is a blue grape that tolerates rainy weather better than many varieties. Joy is ready to harvest relatively early, ripening in mid-August. ‘Himrod’ produces clusters of sweet, juicy, golden grapes that ripen in mid-August. This variety performs well in zones 5 through 8. ‘Canadice’ produces compact clusters of sweet, firm, dazzling, red grapes from mid-August through September. This mild flavored variety is suitable for zones 5 through 9. ‘Faith’ is a reliable producer for zones 6 through 8. The attractive blue, mellow fruit typically ripens very early – in late July and early August. ‘Venus’ is a vigorous vine that produces large, blue-black grapes. This hardy vine prefers zones 6 through 10. ‘Thomcord’ is a cross between familiar Concord and Thompson grapes. This heat-tolerant vine produces fruit with the richness of Concord and the mild, sweet flavor of Thompson. ‘Flame,’ a good choice for warmer climates, this grape variety thrives in zones 7 through 10. The sweet, juicy fruit ripens in August.

Who doesn’t love a grapevine? Grapevines can live and produce for years and years - once you get one started, you’re in for the long haul of delicious fruit. When you’re picking out a vine to plant, however, you should keep in mind what you want to do with your grapes. Some people grow grapes for wine, some for juice, and some simply for eating. One especially popular use is making grape jams and jellies. You can make jelly out of any grape, but some varieties are better suited than others. Keep reading to learn more about growing grapes for jelly and jam and the best grapes for jelly and jam production.

What are the Best Grape Jelly Varieties?

One of the best known varieties of grape is the Concord, and it’s one of the best grapes for jelly making. Not only does it make good preserves, it is a versatile vine that can be grown in a very wide range of soils and climates. It produces vigorously; it is also popular in making juice, wine and just eating off the vine. If you want lots and lots of jelly, or you want a grape you can get multiple projects out of, the Concord is a good choice. There are many different varieties of Concords that are better suited to different climates. Another vine that produces good grapes for jam is the Valiant. This is a good, cold hardy vine that produces sweet, flavorful, blue grapes perfect for preserves. Edelweiss is a white grape that ripens early and makes good grape jams and jellies too. It is not as frost hardy as some other grapevines, and may need winter protection in USDA zones 3 and 4. Other popular grapes for making jam and jelly are Beta, Niagra and St. Croix.

Grapes are widely grown fruits and perennial vines. The fruits are developed on new shoots, called canes, which are useful for the preparation of jellies, pies, wine, and juice while the leaves can be used in cooking. They can also be eaten fresh. This article discusses which grapes are used to make wine.

What are the Best Grapes for Wine?

To say there are lots of wine grape varieties is an understatement. These include grapes that ripen early in the season, those that are early to mid-ripening, mid to late ripening, and, of course, the late-ripening grapes. The ones you choose will depend on your region and preference. Early ripening varieties include:

• Chardonnay
• Viognier
• Gamay noir
• Sauvignon Blanc
• Melon
• Pinot noir
• Muscat Blanc
• Orange Muscat

Early mid-ripening varieties are:

• Arneis
• Trousseau gris
• Chenin blanc
• Tinta madeira
• Gewurztraminer
• Tempranillo
• Malvasia vianca
• Syrah
• Semillon
• Sylvaner

Mid and mid-late ripening wine grape varieties include:

• Zinfandel
• Barbera
• Burger
• Carnelian
• Centurion
• Colombard
• Freisa
• Grenache
• Marsanne
• Merlot
• Riesling
• Sangiovese
• Symphony
• Alicante Bouschet
• Cabernet Franc
• Sauvignon
• Cinsaut
• Dolcetto
• Durif
• Malbec
• Tannet
• Nebbiolo
• Valdiguie

The best types of wine grapes which grow at a later time are:

• Ruby Cabernet
• Rubired
• Mission
• Petit Verdot
• Muscat of Alexandria
• Aglianico
• Carignane
• Mourvedre
• Montepulciano

How to Grow Grapes for Home Winemaking

Growing wine grape varieties is a long-term investment. Select a cutting to propagate a new vine, taking one or two cuttings per plant. This should be done in late fall when leaves have dropped. Cutting should be ¼ inch (6 mm.) in diameter and taken from canes at least a year old. Make the cut just below a bud at a 45-degree angle, then another about an inch (2.5 cm.) above the bud. Three buds should be present on the cutting. Store cuttings in peat moss sealed with plastic and keep in refrigerator at 40 degrees F. (4 C.) until spring. Additionally, you can also purchase these cuttings from a reputable company at this time.

Planting Wine Grape Varieties

Select a site at home that receives six hours of direct sunlight each day. There should not be shade. Grapevines can tolerate pH from 5.5 to 7.5. Well-drained soil is best while fertilizer is not essential for growing grapes. Don’t use herbicides near the grapevine. At spring planting time, the end of the cutting should be in-ground while that nearest the tip should be above ground. If you purchased the grapevine from a nursery, soak the roots for three hours. The hole should be slightly larger than the root system of the grapevine. Keep 6 to 8 feet (2 m.) of distance between plants and 9 feet (3 m.) between rows. Any staking should be around 5 to 6 feet (1.5-2 m.) in height. Irrigate with an inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week for the first growing season. You should not fertilize the plants for the first year. Pruning and weeding your wine grapes will be essential in order to get that long-sought-after harvest necessary for making your wine.

Want to can your own grape jelly or make your own wine? There’s a grape out there for you. There are literally thousands of grape varieties available, but only a few dozen are grown to any extent with less than 20 making up the entire world’s production. What are some of the more common grape varieties and some characteristics of the different types of grapes?

Grapevine Types

Grapevine varieties are divided into table grapes and wine grapes. This means that table grapes are primarily used for eating and preserving while wine grapes are for, you guessed it, wine. Some varieties of grapes can be used for both. American grapevine varieties and hybrids are generally grown as table grapes and for juicing and canning. They are also the most common varieties of grapes for the home gardener. Oh, there is a third type of grape, but it is not commonly cultivated. There are over 20 species of wild grape throughout Canada and the United States. The four most common wild grape varieties are:

• Riverbank grape (V. riparia)
• Frost grape (V. vulpine)
• Summer grape (V. aestivalis)
• Catbird grape (V. palmate)

These wild grapes are important food sources for wildlife and are often found in moist, fertile, forest soil near streams, ponds, and roadsides. Most of the modern varieties of table and wine grapes are derived from one or more species of wild grape. There may be several different types of grapes suited to grow in your garden, depending upon your climatic region. Warm regions with hot, dry days and cool, humid nights are ideal for growing wine grapes, Vitis vinifera. Those folks in cooler regions can plant a variety of table grape or wild grape.

Common Grape Varieties

Most of the wine grapes grown in the United States are grafted European grapes. This is because there is a bacterium in American soils that is lethal to non-native grapes. Grafting onto the rootstock of native grapes gives the European stock a natural resistance. Some of these French-American varieties include:

• Vidal Blanc
• Seyval Blanc
• DeChaunac
• Chambourcin

Varieties that are not of European origin include:

• Chardonnay
• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Pinot

American wine grapes (which are more cold hardy than the hybrid or foreign grapes) include:

• Concord
• Niagra
• Delaware
• Reliance
• Canadice

Concord probably rings a bell, as it is a common table grape often made into jelly. Niagra is a white grape that is also delicious eaten off the vine. Canadice, Catawba, Muscadine, Steuben, Bluebell, Himrod, and Vanessa are also popular table grapes. There are many other varietals of both table and wine grapes, each with a unique characteristic. A good nursery will be able to direct you as to which varietals are suitable for your region.

If you don’t have the space or soil for a traditional garden, containers are a great alternative; and grapes, believe it or not, handle container life very well. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow grapes in a container.

Tips for Planting Grapevines in Pots

Can grapes be grown in containers? Yes, they can. In fact, the care of container grown grapes isn’t at all complicated. There are, however, a few things you need to know beforehand to make growing a grapevine in a pot an easier, more successful endeavor. Growing a grapevine in a pot requires some specific materials. 

First, you need to pick your container. Black or dark colored plastic pots heat up in the sun and can cause your grapevine’s roots to get too hot. Wooden containers are a good alternative. If you have to use dark plastic, try to arrange your container so that it stays in the shade but your vine is in the sun. Your container should also be a minimum of 15 gallons (57 L.). 

The next thing you need is a good trellis. This can be any shape or material you like, as long as it’s strong and will last. As your grapevine grows (and it will grow for many years), it will have to hold up a lot of material. Grapevines are typically grown from cuttings. The best time to plant your cutting is early autumn. 

Put stones or Styrofoam in the bottom of your container for drainage, then add soil and a layer of mulch. Grapes will grow in nearly any type of soil, but they prefer moist silt loam. They need virtually no fertilizer, but if you choose to feed them, use a fertilizer low in nitrogen.

Maintaining Your Container Grown Grapes

Allow your vine to grow freely until the first frost. This gives it time to establish a good root system. After this, prune the new growth way back so that only two buds remain. Buds are little pimple-like protrusions on the trunk. 

The pruning may seem drastic, but in the spring each of these buds will grow into a new branch. Grapevines take some time and effort before payoff, and container grown grapes are no different. 

You won’t actually see any grapes until the second full year of growth. The first year is for training the vine to follow your trellis with tying and pruning. Due to the size restrictions of a container, you should keep only one or two branches growing from your central trunk. 

Also, prune away any runners that creep away from the trellis. Especially with limited roots, a smaller vine makes for higher quality grapes.

Most types of grapes are hardy in USDA growing zones 6-9 and make an attractive, edible addition to the garden with minimal care. To get your grapes off with their best chance for success, it's advisable to do a soil test. 

The results of your soil test will tell you if you should be fertilizing your grapevines. If so, read on to find out when to feed grapevines and how to fertilize grapes.

Fertilizing Grapevines Prior to Planting

If you are still in the planning stages with regards to grapevines, now is the time to amend the soil. Use a home testing kit to determine the makeup of your soil. 

Generally, but dependent upon the grape variety, you want a soil pH of 5.5 to 7.0 for optimal growth. To raise a soil pH, add dolomitic limestone; to lower a pH, amend with sulfur following the manufacturer’s instructions.

• If the results of your test show the soil pH is fine but magnesium is lacking, add 1 pound (0.5 kg.) of Epsom salts for every 100 square feet (9.5 square meters).
• Should you find your soil is lacking in phosphorus, apply triple phosphate (0-45-0) in the amount of ½ pound (0.25 kg.), superphosphate (0-20-0) at the rate of ¼ pound (0.10 kg.) or bone meal (1-11-1) in the amount of 2 ¼ pounds (1 kg.) per 100 square feet (9.5 square meters).
• Lastly, if the soil is low in potassium, add ¾ pound (0.35 kg.) of potassium sulfate or 10 pounds (4.5 kg.) of greensand.

When to Feed Grapevines

Grapes are deep-rooted and, as such, require little additional grapevine fertilizer. Unless your soil is extremely poor, err on the side of caution and amend as little as possible. For all soils, fertilize lightly the second year of growth. 

How much plant food should I use for grapes? Apply no more than ¼ pound (0.10 kg.) of 10-10-10 fertilizer in a circle around the plant, 4 feet (1 m.) away from each vine. In successive years, apply 1 pound (0.5 kg.) about 8 feet (2.5 m.) from the base of the plants that appear to lack vigor. 

Apply plant food for grapes just when the buds begin to emerge in the spring. Fertilizing too late in the season can cause overly extensive growth, which may leave the plants vulnerable to winter injury.

How to Fertilize Grapes

Grapevines, like almost every other plant, need nitrogen, especially in the spring to jump-start rapid growth. That said if you prefer to use manure to feed your vines, apply it in January or February. Apply 5-10 pounds (2-4.5 kg.) of poultry or rabbit manure, or 5-20 (2-9 kg.) pounds of steer or cow manure per vine. 

Other nitrogen-rich grapevine fertilizers (such as urea, ammonium nitrate, and ammonium sulfate) should be applied after the vine has blossomed or when grapes are about ¼ inch (0.5 cm.) across. Apply ½ pound (0.25 kg.) of ammonium sulfate, 3/8 pound (0.2 kg.) ammonium nitrate, or ¼ pound (0.1 kg.) of urea per vine. Zinc is also beneficial to grapevines. It aids in many plant functions and a deficiency can lead to stunted shoots and leaves, resulting in a reduced yield. 

Apply zinc in the spring a week before the vines bloom or when they are in full bloom. Apply a spray with a concentration of 0.1 pounds per gallon (0.05kg./4L.) to the vine's foliage. You may also brush a zinc solution on fresh pruning cuts after you prune your grapes in the early winter.

Decreased shoot growth, chlorosis (yellowing), and summer burn usually mean a potassium deficiency. Apply potassium fertilizer during the spring or early summer when the vines are just beginning to produce grapes. Use 3 pounds (1.5 kg.) of potassium sulfate per vine for mild deficiencies or up to 6 pounds (3 kg.) per vine for severe cases.

If you’re looking for a great tasting grape with an unusual appearance, try witch finger grapes. Read on to find out about this exciting new variety of grape.

What are Witch Finger Grapes?

You probably won’t find these special grapes in your supermarket, yet, but they are worth waiting for. Grown as a table grape, both their sweet flavor and unusual shape make them appealing to kids as well as adults. Maroon in color when fully ripe, a cluster of witch finger grapes look like a tightly packed cluster of chili peppers. They have thin skin over light-colored, juicy, sweet flesh. The result is a pleasing snap between the teeth when you bite into them.

Where Do Witch Finger Grapes Come From?

Developed by hybridizers using a University of Arkansas cultivar and a Mediterranean grape, witch finger grapes are a specialty fruit not yet available for home growers. At this time, there is only one company that grows them. They are grown in Bakersfield, California and sold in southern California farmer’s markets. Some are packaged and shipped for national distribution, but they are very hard to find.

Care of Witch Finger Grapes

It may be a while before you can find these special grape vines available for home gardens, but they aren't any more difficult to grow than other grape varieties. They need bright sunlight and good air circulation. Adjust the soil pH to between 5.0 and 6.0 before planting and try to maintain this pH as long as the grapes remain in the location. Space the plants as much as 8 feet (2 m.) apart if you plan to grow them on a trellis or as little as 4 feet (1 m.) apart if you are going to stake them with poles. Water the plants when the weather is dry until they become established. You can fertilize grapes with a layer of compost each year if you prefer an organic crop. If you plan to use bagged fertilizer, apply 8 to 12 ounces (225-340 g.) of 10-10-10 around each plant about a week after planting. Increase the amount to 1 pound (450 g.) the second year and 20 ounces (565 g.) in subsequent years. Keep the fertilizer about a foot (31 cm.) from the base of the vine. It can take a long time to learn to properly prune a witch finger grape vine. Prune the grape vine in late winter or early spring, after the danger of frost has passed but before the vine begins putting on new growth. Remove enough of the stems to allow in plenty of sunshine and air, and to keep the vines from exceeding their boundaries. This information about witches’ finger grapes will help you establish your vines. Good pruning technique comes with practice and observation.

With excellent, outstanding weather conditions, adequate and consistent irrigation, and superior cultural conditions, the only thing home grape growers need worry about is how to get the grapes before the birds do! Unfortunately, this perfect trifecta doesn't exist year after year, leading to the issue of grape berry cracking. What exactly are the causes of splitting grapes and what can be done to fix fruit split of grapes? Read on to learn more.

What Causes Splitting Grapes?

The exact cause of grapes that are cracking open is still under debate, but all camps seem to agree that it stems from irrigation, either an over abundance or lack thereof. While grapes will adapt to lower water conditions, yields will be reduced. Ideally, irrigation is essential for optimum production and quality of fruit. The timing of this irrigation is of primary importance. Grape skins that crack open may also be caused by diseases such as powdery mildew, or pests like the grape berry moth. Fruit split of grapes may also be the result of the aforementioned birds who love the berries as much as you do, and it may be a constant battle. And then of course, we have the weather. Sudden rainstorms or hail during the period when berries are ripening leaves them susceptible to the potential for grape skins that crack open.

What to Do When Grape Skins Crack Open

To prevent the birds from devouring or damaging the grapes, netting or individual bagging of grape clusters should do the trick. You can battle powdery mildew with a fungicide and control grape berry moth in two ways. First, remove and destroy dead leaves, as the pest over winters as pupae in leaf drop. Secondly, spraying an insecticide after bloom and again in the late summer should eradicate the pest. You can avoid grape berry cracking by irrigating the vine deeply and thoroughly down into the root zone. Furrow irrigation every two weeks in hot climates should be sufficient, or put the vine on a drip irrigation system at least once a week. As with everything, there is a delicate balance here. Too much water can also lead to fruit split of grapes. Minimize water stress from bloom time until grape softening when the berries yield to gentle squeezing and sugar content is increasing. Basically, be consistent with irrigation, avoiding stress either way and adjusting for weather conditions. One can't control Mother Nature however, and despite your best efforts, a sudden storm may still result in cracking grapes leaving the fruit open to pathogens, hence disease or rot.

Rich, elegant bunches of grapes hanging in clusters are an idyllic vision, but not one that every grape grower gets to experience. Grape growing isn't for the faint of heart, but if you're willing to take on the challenge, it's best to know your enemy. Summer bunch rot, also known as grape sour rot, can be a serious problem in grapes, damaging fruits and creating a huge mess for growers of both decorative and fruiting vines.

What is Summer Bunch Rot?

Summer bunch rot in grapes is a fairly common fungal infection caused by a number of different pathogens, including Botrytis cinerea, Aspergillus niger, and Alternaria tenuis. Due to the wide variety of pathogens involved, bunch rot of grapes can affect plants in almost any grape-growing climate, although it universally appears as fruits are ripening in the summer. Once the sugar content is above eight percent, grapes become susceptible to grape sour rot. The pathogens that cause this disease are relatively weak though, and require injury to the grape's skin before they can enter the fruit and begin multiplying. Bunch rot is much more common in tightly clustered grapes, where it can easily spread from fruit to fruit, but can appear in loosely clustered fruits as well. Summer bunch rot in grapes appears as a few damaged berries in a cluster, which soon collapse and rot. There may be black, white, green, or gray spores, but these don't occur with all pathogen species. Once the initial infected berries collapse, the pathogen spreads rapidly through the bunch, causing widespread rotting and a distinct and unpleasant vinegar odor to develop.

Control of Summer Bunch Rot

Fungicides are generally ineffective when it comes to controlling summer bunch rot, but if you can keep powdery mildew killed back and open your grape canopy enough to reduce the humidity, you'll have a fighting chance at defeating this fungal pest. Protect your grapes from birds and insects that may damage the grape surfaces with bird netting or fencing and a floating row cover. If you see any grapes that are already showing signs of summer bunch rot, remove them immediately and destroy the infected tissues. Growers who are primarily interested in growing grapes as an ornamental vine should remove young bunches as early as possible to keep the vine healthy and vigorous.

If you've noticed irregular blotches or blister-like lesions on your grape leaves, you may be wondering what, or who the culprit is. Although you may not see them, chances are good that this damage is the product of blister leaf mites. Read on to learn how to spot grape erineum mite damage and what other grape leaf blister mite info is helpful for controlling or eradicating these pests.

Grape Leaf Blister Mite Info

Adult blister leaf mites are tiny-- smaller than a mote of dust. If you could view them with the naked eye though, you would see cream-colored worms with two pairs of legs. Grape erineum mite damage appears on young leaves as dark green to pink tinged swellings on upper areas. The underside of leaves have a concave appearance, littered with blister-like edemas covered with a felted carpeting of dense long leaf hairs. Erineum mites overwinter on the grapevines and move on to the new growth in the spring. They feed in groups beneath the swellings and, as their numbers increase, move to new areas of the vine. From late summer into autumn, the mites move back to the bud scales to overwinter. While unsightly, treating grape leaf blister mites is generally unnecessary. Leaves afflicted with the erineum galls or swellings function normally and there is no effect on grape production unless the vine is suffering from additional grapevine diseases, pests, or environmental stresses. These mites can affect growth and production of newly planted, very immature vines, however, so blister mite control in these cases may become needed.

Blister Mite Control

Different grape varieties are more susceptible to erineum mites. In young plants, removing and disposing of infested leaves can control light infestations. A natural predator, Glaendromus occidentalis, feeds on erineum mites. Introduction of this predator has some effect on reducing their numbers; however, the tiny mites are often protected by the dense hairs of the galls. In vineyards, blister leaf mites are rarely an issue when the property has been routinely treated for powdery mildew with applications of Sulphur early in the growth season. A number of other chemical sprays used for the control of leafhoppers and spider mites also stem the population of blister leaf mites. For the home grower, however, again, there is very little need for treating grape leaf blister mites with a chemical measure. The effects from these tiny mites are primarily aesthetic, and should simply be tolerated. You should still get a bumper crop of grapes, provided all other conditions are favorable.

Muscadine grapes (Vitis rotundifolia) are indigenous to the Southeastern United States. Native Americans dried the fruit and introduced it to the early colonists. Muscadine grapevine plantings have been cultured for over 400 years for use in wine making, pies, and jellies. Let's learn more about the growing requirements for muscadine grapes.

Growing Muscadine Grapes

Muscadine grapevine planting should take place in an area of full sun with well-draining soil. For maximum grape production, the vine should be in full sun for most of the day; shaded areas reduce fruit set. Well-draining soil is of paramount importance. Vines may die if they are in standing water for even a short period of time, such as after a heavy rainstorm. Muscadine grape care requires a soil pH of between 5.8 and 6.5. A soil test will help gauge any deficiencies. Dolomitic lime may be incorporated prior to muscadine grapevine planting to adjust the pH of the soil. Plant muscadine grapes in the spring after all chance of freezing temperatures has passed. Plant the vine at the same depth or a little deeper than it was in its pot. For multiple vine planting, space the plants a minimum of 10 feet (3 m.) apart or better still, 20 feet (6 m.) apart in the row with 8 feet (2 m.) or more between rows. Water the plants in and mulch around the bases to aid in water retention.

Muscadine Grape Care

Trellising and fertilizing are important aspects in the care of muscadine grapes.

Trellising

The care of muscadine grapes requires trellising; they are after all, a vine. Any number of things can be used to for the growing muscadine grapes to clamber up. Decide what trellis system you wish to use and have it constructed and put in place prior to planting your vines. When considering your options, think about the long term. Have a trellis system that will take into account the permanent cordons, or arms, of the vine that need annual pruning. These cordons should have at least 4 feet (1 m.) of space from each other. A single wire (No. 9) 5 to 6 feet (1.5-2 m.) above the ground and anchored on both sides is a simple and easy trellis construct. You can also create a double wire trellis, which will increase the grape yield. Attach 4 foot (1 m.) cross arms of 2 by 6 inch (5 x 15 cm.) treated lumber to treated posts to support double wires. Of course, muscadine grapes can be used as a shade provider over a pergola or arch as well.

Fertilizing

Fertilization requirements for muscadine grapes are usually in the form of ¼ pound (113 g.) of 10-10-10 fertilizer applied around the vines after planting in late April to early May. Repeat this feeding every six weeks until early July. In the vine's second year, apply ½ pound (227 g.) of fertilizer in early March, May, and July. Keep the fertilizer 21 inches (53 cm.) away from the trunk of the vine. When feeding mature vines, broadcast 1 to 2 pounds (454-907 g.) of 10-10-10 around the vine in early to mid-March and an additional pound (454 g.) in June. Depending upon the average length of new vine growth, fertilizer amounts may need to be adjusted accordingly. Additional applications of magnesium may need to be applied since grapes have a high requirement. Epsom salt in the amount of 4 pounds (2 kg.) per 100 gallons (379 L.) of water can be applied in July or sprinkle 2 to 4 ounces (57-113 g.) around young vines or 4 to 6 ounces (113-170 g.) for mature vines. Boron is also a necessity and may need to be added. Two tablespoons (30 ml.) of Borax mixed with the 10-10-10 and broadcast over a 20 by 20 foot (6 x 6 m.) area every two to three years will adjust a boron deficiency.

Additional Muscadine Grape Care

Keep the area surrounding the vines weed-free by shallow cultivation or mulch with bark to control weeds and aid in water retention. Water the vines regularly for the first two years and thereafter, the plants will likely be established enough to get adequate water from the soil, even during hot, dry periods. For the most part, muscadine grapes are pest resistant. Japanese beetles do love a nibble, however, as do birds. Draping netting over the vines can thwart the birds. There are a number of disease resistant cultivars to choose from too, such as:

• ‘Carlos'
• ‘Nesbitt'
• ‘Noble'
• ‘Triumph'
• ‘Regale'

Hanging from trellises and arbors, grapes provide beautiful leaf cover and abundant fruit when they're happy and healthy. Unfortunately, grape problems, like grapevine fanleaf virus, aren't uncommon, making growing grapes a significant challenge. If you suspect fanleaf degeneration of grapes in your vineyard or garden, read on for more valuable information.

Grapevine Fanleaf Degeneration

Grapevine fanleaf degeneration is a common grape virus transmitted by dagger nematodes. Not only is it one of the most severe viral diseases of grapes, but the oldest known, with descriptions going back to 1841. Any species of grape can be infected, but Vitis vinifera, Vitis rupestris, and their hybrids are the most susceptible. You should be on the watch for this disease anywhere grapes grow, especially in states with known infections like California, Washington, Maryland, Pennsylvania, New York, and Missouri. Infected plants often show a slow decline and difficulty setting fruit, but nearly always bear a distinctive leaf deformity. Affected leaves exhibit a fanlike shape due to abnormalities in vein formation, and yellow coloration either in a mosaic pattern or in bands along major veins. This yellow coloration generally appears in summer.

Controlling Grapevine Fanleaf Virus

If your grapes are already infected with the grape fanleaf virus, it's too late to do anything about this tragic disease, but you can prevent infection in healthy plants by practicing good tool hygiene between all your plants. In the future, you can avoid this disease by planting certified disease-free grapevines that have nematode resistant rootstocks in new soil far away from the location of your infected grapes. Although widespread establishment of the virus is uncommon in the home garden, the better your sanitation and management, the less likely that grapevine fanleaf virus will become a household problem. Keep weeds tightly controlled around any grape plantings to eliminate vector plants and replant grape areas thickly with nematicidal plants, like French marigolds, to help destroy the nematodes that readily transmit this disease. True resistance to the virus is not yet available in the breeding of grapes, so a combination approach to grape fanleaf virus control is your best bet if you hope to grow grapes successfully in your home garden. Always keep your tools sterilized and plant clean, resistant stock. Also, watch for signs of disease and remove any suspect plants immediately for best results.

Growing grapes in the home garden is a labor of love. All the training and pruning and years and years of waiting for the first batch of grapes can be a lot to bear for any grower. When grape black rot ruins your harvest, you may want to throw in the towel. Fear not! There is black rot grape treatment, and, with some effort, you can defeat this merciless fungal disease.

What is Black Rot on Grapes?

Black rot of grapes is a fungal disease that persists in grapevines for many years without treatment. The earliest signs of disease appear as yellow circular lesions on young leaves. As these lesions spread, they brown and sprout black fungal fruiting bodies that look similar to grains of pepper. With advancing disease, lesions may girdle the petiole of individual leaves, killing them. Eventually, the fungus spreads to the shoots, causing large black elliptical lesions. Although leaf symptoms are annoying, the real damage from grape black rot comes from fruit symptoms. In many cases, fruits are about halfway grown before they start to show signs of infection -- the same small brown lesions on leaves will begin to appear on grapes. These areas soften, sink, and rot in just a few days and what remains of the fruit shrivels up into a tiny, hard raisin-like fruit, mummy covered in fungal fruiting bodies.

How to Save Grapes with Black Rot

Grape black rot is difficult to stop once it has taken hold of growing fruit. Many gardeners would consider this year's crop a lost cause and work toward preventing a recurrence of the disease. The best time to treat black rot of grapes is between bud break until about four weeks after bloom; treating outside of this window is likely to end in frustration. However, if you want to try, captan and myclobutanil are the fungicides of choice. Prevention is key when dealing with grape black rot. During your fall clean-up, make sure that all mummies have been removed from the vine and all plant material on the ground below is destroyed. Prune out any and all areas with lesions; grapevines can handle a severe pruning -- when in doubt, cut it out. If leaves appear the following spring with new lesions, remove these immediately and start a spray treatment program with one of the above-listed fungicides.

In my neck of the woods, the Pacific Northwest, it seems every other day a new winery pops up. Some of them make it and some of them don't; the result not only of savvy marketing but the quality of the wine which directly correlates to the superiority of the grape. For the home gardener, growing grapevines may create a lovely shaded oasis or arbor, or an ornamental detail with the added bonus of edibility. But how do you know when to harvest grapes at the peak of their sweetness and optimum flavor? Read on for some grape harvest info.

When to Harvest Grapes

The precise time for picking grapes is dependent on the location, length of growing season, variety of grape, crop load and the intended use of the grape. Heavy crop loads take longer to mature. The optimum time for harvesting grapes will vary year to year as do environmental conditions -- sometime after the berries turn color (veraison). Commercial grape growers rely on more scientific methods to determine when to harvest the grapes such as precise pH levels and sugar contents (Brix) that are established with testing. The home grower may make use of the following to ascertain the ripening of grapes and proper harvest time: Color - Harvesting grapes for use in jellies or wine making must occur at just the right stage of maturity for maximum sweetness. Grapes change color from green to blue, red or white, depending upon the variety. Color is one of the indicators of ripeness. However, it is not the most reliable indicator, as many varieties of grapes change color well prior to ripening. Still, when completely ripe, the whitish coating on the grapes becomes more evident and the seeds turn from green to brown. Size - Size is another gauge of the ripening of grapes. When mature, the grapes are full size and a bit less firm to the touch. Taste - Hands down, the best way to ascertain if your grapes are ripe enough to harvest is to taste them. Sample the grapes three to four weeks prior to the approximate harvest date and continue to taste the grapes as they mature. Try to take samples at the same time of day from a variety of areas on the vine. Grapes, unlike other fruits, do not continue to ripen once off the vine, so it is important to keep tasting until the grapes are uniformly sweet. Sample from sun exposed areas as well as those that are shaded. Ripeness and color of grapes is not reliant upon direct sunlight, but rather the amount of light that reaches the grape foliage results in high quality fruit. It is the leaves of the grape that engender the sugars, which are then transferred to the fruit.

Additional Grape Harvest Info

Uneven ripening may occur due to too many grape clusters on the vine (over-cropping), potassium deficiency, drought or other environmental stressors. Warmer than normal weather is often the cause of uneven ripening, wherein some berries stay sour, hard and green while others ripen and darken in color normally. Ripening berries are also extremely attractive to the birds. To protect the impending harvest, you may want to envelop the grape clusters in a brown bag tied to the cane or by netting the entire vine. Once you have ascertained it is prime time for a grape harvest, simply remove the clusters with hand shears. Grapes can be stored at 32 F. (0 C.) with 85 percent relative humidity, in a perforated bag for up to two months.

Grapevines are tenacious plants with wide-spreading root systems and persistent growth. Transplanting mature grapevines would practically take a backhoe, and digging out an old grapevine will require back breaking labor with mixed results. A better approach is to take cuttings and try rooting grapevines. 

Learning how to propagate grapevines from cuttings is not difficult and can preserve an old vine variety. New vines that are not heavily entrenched can be moved with some specific grapevine transplant info.

Can You Transplant Grapevines?

Relocating an old grapevine is not an easy undertaking. Grapevine roots are deep when compared to many other types of plants. They do not produce excessive roots, but the ones that they do grow extend deep into the earth. This can make transplanting grapevines very difficult, as you have to dig deep enough to capture the entire root system. 

In old vineyards, this is accomplished with a backhoe. In the home garden, however, manual digging and lots of sweat are the best method for transplanting grapevines. Therefore, smaller vines are preferable if the need to transplant arises.

Grapevine Transplant Info

If you must transplant a grapevine, move vines in fall or early spring, cutting back the vine to 8 inches (20.5 cm.) from the ground. Before you dig out an older grapevine to move it, excavate down around the perimeter of the main trunk out a distance of 8 inches (20.5 cm.) or more. This will help you find any peripheral roots and free them from the soil. 

Once you have the bulk of the outer grapevine roots excavated, dig down deeply in a trench around the vertical roots. You may need help to move the vine once it is excavated. Lay the roots on a large piece of burlap and wrap them in the material. Move the vine to a hole that is twice as wide as the roots. Loosen the soil at the bottom of the hole to the depth of the vertical roots. Water the vine frequently while it re-establishes.

How to Propagate Grapevines

If you are relocating and want to preserve the grape variety you had at your home, the easiest way is to take a cutting. Hardwood is the best material for propagation. Take the cuttings in the dormant season between February and March. Harvest wood from the previous season. Wood must be pencil-sized and about 12 inches (30.5 cm.) long. 

Place the cutting in a plastic bag with a piece of moist moss in the refrigerator until the soil is thawed and workable. Wait until the soil is completely thawed before rooting grapevines. In early spring, prepare a bed with loose soil and put the cutting in the soil vertically with the top bud just above the surface of the soil. Keep the cutting moderately moist during spring and summer. 

Once the cutting has grapevine roots, you can transplant it the following spring to a permanent location. Transplanting grapevines of this size is no different from planting a new plant.

Nothing is as frustrating as growing grapes in the garden only to find they have succumbed to problems such as disease. One such disease of grapes most often seen in the South is Pierce's disease. Keep reading to learn more about Pierce's disease in grapes and what steps can be taken to prevent or treat this disease.

What is Pierce's Disease?

Some grape species are prone to a disease known as Pierce's disease. Pierce's disease in grapes is the result of a type of bacteria known as Xylella fastidiosa. This bacterium is found in the xylem of the plant (the water-conducting tissues) and spreads from plant to plant by a particular sap insect known as a sharpshooter.

Symptoms of Pierce's Disease

There are several signs occurring in mid to late summer that indicate the disease is present. As the bacteria in the xylem grows, it blocks the water-conducting system. The first thing that may be noticeable is that leaves turn slightly yellow or red on the margins. After this, the fruit shrivels and dies, then the leaves fall off the plant. New canes develop irregularly. The disease spreads and even plants that you did not think were infected may show signs the next season.

Preventing Pierce's Disease

One of the most common management practices involves spraying insecticide in areas close to the vineyard to reduce the number of sharpshooter insects. Avoiding very susceptible grape varieties, such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, or young vines under three that are planted in an area known to have previous problems with infection helps as well. Much agony over this disease can be spared if you plant varieties of disease-resistant grapes. Planting resistant varieties are the only 100 percent effective way to prevent or control Pierce's disease.

Pierce's Disease Treatment

There is little that can be done as far as Pierce's disease treatment other than taking preventative measures. However, vines that have had symptoms for more than a year should be removed during the dormant season. Any vines that are showing foliar symptoms should also be removed. It is imperative that diseased vines be removed as soon as possible when symptoms are first apparent. This will help keep infection spread to a minimum.

Grapevines are tough plants that thrive after being severely cut back, re-bloom after snowy winters, and produce masses of fruit even when neglected. That said, there are several pest, cultural, and grapevine diseases that can minimize the vigor of these plants. Rarely do grapevine pests or disease kill a vine, but it helps to have information on preventing problems in grapes so the harvest will be robust. Learn how to take care of grapevine issues and be prepared to apply treatments quickly.

Preventing Problems in Grapes

Grapevines have specific cultural requirements. When these are met, most vines perform beautifully with few problems. Grapes perform best if grown in well-drained soil with plenty of organic amendment. Most grape varieties are hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8, but some prefer cooler weather, while others need a longer warmer season. Annual pruning is key to preventing problems in grapes. Train young canes to just one strong leader, with peripheral shoots coming off that and tied to a trellis.

Grapevine Diseases

There are many other grapevine diseases to be vigilant and prepared for treating grapevine problems, including both fungal and bacterial diseases. Fungal - The most common diseases of grapes are fungal. Much of these are controlled with good cultural control. Old plant material can harbor the fungal spores in soil even over the winter, so it is essential to clean up around the vines after pruning. Black spot, powdery mildew, and anthracnose are just a few of the common fungal diseases. They most commonly affect the foliage with spotting or a coating, but may occasionally threaten twigs and terminal tissues. The fungus reduces the plant's effectiveness at gathering solar energy and can cause leaf loss. Bacterial - Bacterial grapevine diseases are also common in the plants. Where vines are growing in an orchard situation, the disease can be devastating as it passes from vine to vine. The home gardener is unlikely to experience this type of widespread damage. Crown gall disease in grapevines affects the roots and lower stems. The disease causes black galls and requires soil fumigation or solarization to kill the bacteria.

Grapevine Pests

The sweet, succulent fruit is a magnet for rodents, insects, and especially birds. Bird nets can help protect the fruit from complete annihilation. Sucking insects, such as aphids, will attack the terminal parts of the plant. Horticultural oils and insecticidal soaps, or neem oil, may be effective in combating these common types of insects. Boring insects can seriously harm the health of your grapevine as well. Treating grapevine problems of this sort usually requires a pesticide registered for use on edible plants. Sevin is one recommended by the Texas A & M Agriculture department.

How to Take Care of Grapevine Issues

Treating grapevine problems starts with identification of the problem. There are so many potential pests and grapevine diseases that it might be helpful to collect a leaf or twig sample and take it into your county Extension office for identification. Once you know what you are dealing with, it's easier to decide how to proceed. Consider the difference between organic and inorganic. Organic fungicides and insecticides will be the choice for a natural gardener. Inorganic treatments are effective and the common choice for large-scale producers or gardeners that just want the job done. No matter which treatment you choose, always read the label and apply in the manner recommended by the manufacturer.

Muscadine grapes (Vitis rotundifolia) are native to southern North America and have been cultivated since colonial times. For owners of these wonderful fruits, knowing how to prune muscadine grapevines properly is a must. Without proper pruning, muscadines are doomed to become tangled masses of woody vines bearing little or no fruit. Old wood must be cut away to make room for new growth, as it is new growth that produces fruit. Vines with too much old wood will not bloom and bear fruit. Those with too much growth will not produce well either. Therefore, pruning muscadine grapes not only controls growth, but also increases the productivity of the plant.

Trimming Muscadine Vines

Before you can discuss how to prune muscadine grapevines, it's important to understand the vine's natural growth and the framework that should be imposed upon it. The vine framework is comprised of the trunk and two or four permanent cordons (arms) and fruiting spurs. Pruning muscadine grapevines each dormant season maintains this basic form. New shoots -- those grown in the current season -- are the ones that bear fruit. These new shoots, however, rise from last season's growth and a balance must be struck when pruning. Grapevines, old or young, benefit from late winter or early spring pruning. The same process for pruning muscadine grapevines is used regardless of the type of trellis they are trained to. What's important is to begin properly and avoid problems later on.

Pruning Muscadine Grapes to Trellis Framework

For new vines, pruning begins as soon as the root is planted and continues through the first two growing seasons. Cut the trunk stem back to two or four buds. Tie the trunk above or between the buds to the trellis wire. As the trunk grows, clip out the side shoots that develop, but leave the leaf growth along the trunk alone. Repeat the side shoot trimming throughout the summer. Over the first and second growing season, keep pruning away at unwanted growth until the trunk is taller than the wire. Now is the time to prune the terminal (topmost) buds back to wire height and let the new topmost buds develop into the cordons. Trim back lateral (side) growth on the cordons to one foot (0.5 m.) lengths to encourage rapid growth and development. From here on in, trimming muscadine vines will be a dormant season chore.

Pruning Muscadine Grapevines During Dormant Season

January through February is the ideal time for pruning these vines and the process is fairly simple. Once the basic framework is established, pruning is used to develop short lateral shoots, or spurs, off the cordons. All shoot growth from the previous season should be cut back to spurs with two to four buds each. Over a number of years, as the spurs keep sending out new shoots, the vines develop spur clusters. When there are too many spur clusters or the clusters become too large, the shoots will become weak and the fruit sparse. When this occurs, pruning of muscadine vines should also include the partial removal of heavily spurred clusters or the compete removal of every other overloaded cluster. Often, these vigorous spurs are found at the top of the trunk and most of the spur system should be removed. Vines may "bleed" at the pruned sight, but this won't hurt the plant and should be allowed to heal naturally. Another growth to watch for while trimming muscadines is girdling. Tendrils will wind their way around the trunk or cordons and will eventually strangle the trunk or lib. Remove such growths yearly. There is one more area that should be covered: how to prune muscadine grapevines that have been neglected and are seriously overgrown. You can start from scratch and cut the vine all the way back to the original trunk with drastic pruning. Muscadine grapevines are tough and most will survive the shock. However, to keep the vines producing while you bring the plant back under control, you might consider pruning only one side of the trunk or one cordon at a time. The process will take longer -- possibly three or four seasons -- but the vine will retain its strength and productivity.

Growing grapes is a wonderful way to introduce fresh fruit to your home or provide your own wine-making supplies. Whatever your motivation, the goal is to get a large crop of grapes, and the best way to ensure this is to learn how to thin grapes. Studies show that yields are highest when both grape cluster thinning and berry thinning of grapes are applied along with Gibberlin acid. The home gardener will likely not use the Gibberlin and can get the largest crop from simply cluster thinning. However, a two-prong approach allows for the largest, fullest clusters and produces the biggest individual fruits even though total gross yield may be affected.

How to Thin Grapes

Grape thinning is only one of the important tasks to do for a good fruit crop. The grapevine should be pruned in late fall or very early spring depending upon your zone. The plant also needs to be fertilized before flowers arrive to encourage larger fruiting. Thinning helps keep fruit from rubbing and gives it room to develop and ripen properly. Good thinning practices also create tight clusters of grapes which travel and keep better than loose, thin clusters. Grapes typically set more clusters than they will have the energy to develop. Removing some of these groups of fruit will allow the vine to concentrate on maturing viable clusters and individual fruit. It also allows light and air into the plant, which enhances overall health. Grape cluster thinning is not difficult. It simply means removing any clusters that are small, misshapen, or even overly large. Thinning grape clusters is done immediately after the flowers have dropped and berries are set.

Berry Thinning of Grapes

Berry thinning removes half of the cluster to allow the remainder enough space to develop larger. Berry thinning is done shortly after cluster thinning and should leave four to five stems on the lower part of the cluster's stem. When the berries are as large as BB's, they need to be hand thinned. This is done commercially by professionals who know the optimum size the fruit should become. They remove any berries that are lagging behind in development and will overcrowd the largest, juiciest fruits. Berry thinning is most important in commercial crops where the clusters need to be set thickly in order to travel and store best.

Grapevine winter care involves the addition of some type of protective covering and proper pruning, especially in colder regions. There are also hardy grape varieties that require little to no upkeep. Learning how to winterize grapevines and how to care for grapes in winter isn't difficult. However, learning about overwintering grapes can be crucial to the health of your vines.

How to Prepare Grapevines for Winter

There are a number of protection methods for overwintering grapes. Choosing a variety hardy to your area is one of the most important things you can do to ensure their survival.

In cold climates, grapevines are generally covered with about 8 inches (20.5 cm.) of mounded soil. Extremely cold regions should also add some insulating mulch such as straw or shredded cornstalks (which are more water-resistant). The addition of snow in these areas provides adequate insulation for protecting vines. Areas with little snowfall should cover vines with at least a foot or two (30.5-61 cm.) of soil.

Since mounded soil above ground can still get quite cold, some grape gardeners prefer using other methods, like deep ditch cultivation. With deep ditch cultivation, ditches are about 4 feet (1 m.) deep and 3 to 4 feet (around 1 m.) wide. The vines are actually planted within the ditch and then the soil is added as they grow. While this method takes much more time to fully fill the ditch, it provides adequate winter protection.

Another method that can be used in less frigid regions involves the use of shallow trenches. Dormant grapevines are carefully removed from their support structures and lightly wrapped in old blankets or burlap. They are then placed into a slightly sloped trench lined with sand. Another protective covering is placed on top along with a layer of black plastic or insulating fabric. This can be anchored into place with soil or rocks. Once spring arrives and buds begin to swell, the vines can be uncovered and reattached to their support structure.

Pruning Care for Grapes in Winter

While pruning can be done in early spring, the ideal time for pruning your grapevines is during late winter, while the vines are still dormant. Trimming the buds at the end of the vines stimulate new growth. This is why pruning too early can become a problem. Getting your hands on a decent set of pruners, like the Felco F6 from Amazon, will help to achieve a clean cut and prevent damage.

You don't want new growth to get cold-damaged. As new vines begin to grow, prune them back. In fact, a hard pruning is usually best. You want to remove as much of the old wood as possible. Don't worry, they will come back readily.

In addition to support, pruning grapes is a vital part of their overall health. Regular pruning is essential for controlling grape canes and producing quality fruit yields. Let's look at how to prune grapes.

How and When to Prune a Grapevine

Grapes should be pruned during their dormancy, usually in late winter. When it comes to pruning grapes, the most common mistake people make is not pruning hard enough. Light pruning doesn't promote adequate fruiting whereas heavy pruning provides the greatest quality of grapes. 

Knowing how to prune grapes can make the difference between a good crop and a bad one. When pruning grapes, you'll want to cut off as much of the old wood as possible. This will encourage the growth of new wood, which is where the fruit is produced.

How to Trim Grape Vines Requiring Winter Protection

While there are several ways you can trim a grapevine, all share the same basic steps for managing varieties that require winter protection. These grape varieties should be pruned into one horizontal trunk that can be easily removed from the trellis or support structure. 

Prune old, neglected vines in stages. These should be pruned each year, removing all growth with exception to new fruiting canes and renewal spurs. Renewal spurs will supply the new fruit canes for the next year's growing season. Select a sturdy cane and cut this back 3 to 4 feet (1 m.), leaving at least a two-bud renewal spur. This cane should be tied to a wire support or trellis. 

Be sure to remove all other canes. As the vine completes each growing season, you'll cut off the old trunk just below the renewal cane.

How to Trim Grapevines Using the Kniffen Method

The easiest way to prune grape varieties that don't require winter protection is by using the four-arm Kniffen method. This method involves using two horizontal wires to support the vine, rather than one. The bottom one is usually about 3 feet (1 m.) from the ground while the other about 5 feet (1.5 m.). 

As the grapevine grows, it is trained onto the wire(s), removing all shoots between the wires and cutting back the shoots along the lower one to only two buds. Mature vines will have about four to six canes with anywhere from five to ten buds on each and four to six renewal spurs with two buds each. 

Basic pruning of grapes is simple. If you require more extensive knowledge of pruning grapes, then further research may be needed. However, for most home gardeners, simply pruning off the old wood and making way for new fruiting wood is all that is needed for how and when to prune a grapevine.