Have you ever heard of living mulch? A useful solution for gardeners looking to improve soil health, suppress weeds and reduce watering during the hottest months of the year, it consists of low-growing ground cover plants that create a protective green layer over the soil.

Much like traditional garden mulches (such as bark or straw), this living carpet has several benefits, not least keeping the soil cooler in summer, slowing moisture loss and reducing erosion during periods of hot and very dry weather.

In addition to this, though, many living mulch plants help improve soil over time. Legumes (or the pea family), for example, fix nitrogen in the soil, which is why it is always a good idea to simply snip sweet peas and beans to ground level in the fall and let those roots work their magic. This process can also reduce the need for additional fertilizers.

Try These 6 Living Mulch Plants

Beyond protecting the soil, living mulch plants provide valuable habitat and nectar for pollinators, helping to boost biodiversity while creating a lush look in beds and borders.

So, whether you want to protect your dry yard from soil degradation, enrich tired soil, reduce maintenance or simply fill bare patches with attractive greenery, consider living mulch the answer. It is, quite simply one of the easiest ways to create a healthier, more resilient garden.

With that in mind, then, here are six essential ground cover plants to consider this year.

1. Nasturtium

Nasturtiums are invaluable to gardeners. These fuss-free trailing plants bring months of colorful blooms while the rounded foliage (almost like water lily pads) smartly covers bare soil. They work in pots, of course, but I like using them in vegetable beds or kitchen gardens, filling those spaces between rows of carrots, lettuces or whatever it is you are growing.

If you want to try growing nasturtiums, sow seeds (available to buy via Amazon) directly where they are to grow. You can plant them most anywhere, with a preference for full sun and a decent amount of water to help them settle and establish. In warmer spots, such as US hardiness zone 8 plus, part-shade is just fine. There is no need to fertilize .

Try these 'Black Velvet' variety for a dramatic bloom display, available via Walmart.

2. Yarrow

For full sun yards, yarrow is a good living mulch plant option to consider, easily covering borders and flower beds.

Live yarrow plants are available via Walmart, and they across USDA Planting Zones 3-9, tolerating chilly winters and hot summer sunshine. It has attractive silver-green foliage that cover soil, as well as colourful flat flowers that pollinators love.

Yarrow plants typically have a dense fibrous root mat that can help to bind and anchor lighter, more sandy soils, too. For a brighter variety, try the pink 'Cerise Queen', available from Amazon.

3. Red clover

Clover is a low-growing perennial legume that fixes nitrogen in the soil, as well as carpetting vast areas of turf, beds or borders. Sure, some people might think of it as a nuisance weed, but not me. It has pretty, delicate leaves with three (or four, if you are lucky) leaflets, as well as plenty of flowers for pollinators in spring and summer.

Red clover, or Trifolium pratense, thrives in cool, moist soils and tolerates some shade. It forms a dense mat that suppresses weeds and reduces soil erosion in the summer, too. And, if you dread yard work and fear the weekend chore of mowing, clover is a good option for lawns, requiring far less water than traditional turf.

Red clover seed is available from Walmart, and can be grown down to US hardiness zone 6. It is typically not frost tender, and will produce masses of purple-pink blooms from May through September.

Remember: red clover is categorized as an invasive plant in some US regions, particularly in areas of disturbed soil. Be sure to consult the website of your local government office before planting.

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4. Wild Ginger

Hardy down to zone 3, wild ginger (or Asarum canadense, if you prefer) is a North American ground cover species that grows across much of Canada and the US.

In shady and moist environments, it can grow a little too well, forming dense mats that spread via rhizomatous growth. But, in large plots, where you have the space, wild ginger is a good option for a living mulch plants that protects the soil and doesn't require any special attention,

You can find bare root wild ginger plants at Amazon. Just remember that, in terms of how to grow wild ginger, shade is essential. Planting under large trees or shrubs is a good option, particularly if you want to cover large swathes of bare soil.

5. Purple Prairie Clover

Purple prairie clover, or Dalea purpurea, is one of those native prairie plants that quietly does a lot of hard work in the yard. This drought-tolerant perennial legume fixes nitrogen in the soil, helping to improve fertility while producing slender stems topped with vibrant purple flower spikes that pollinators adore throughout summer. What more could you want?

Hardy down to US zone 3, purple prairie clover thrives in full sun and well-draining soils, making it an ideal living mulch for hot, dry gardens where many other ground covers struggle. It has a deep root system that helps to stabilize soil, improve structure and reduce erosion over time.

If you are gardening for wildlife, this is a particularly good choice. Bees, butterflies and other beneficial insects flock to the nectar-rich blooms, while the foliage supports several native insect species. Be sure, then, to treat them to purple prairie clover seeds, which are widely available from retailers including Amazon..

6. Creeping Phlox

Creeping phlox, or Phlox stolonifera, is one of my favourite native ground covers for filling awkward gaps. Whether spilling over retaining walls or carpeting the front of your borders, it creates a dense mat of evergreen foliage that works hard all year round.

Hardy in US zones 5 to 8, creeping phlox thrives in well-draining soil and performs best with at least a few hours of direct sun each day. The more sunshine, the more flowers. Once established, it requires very little attention, making these easy living mulch plants to grow that help to shade the soil, retain moisture and reduce weed growth.

The phlox show begins in spring, when the foliage is almost hidden beneath masses of white, pink, purple or lavender flowers. This floral display lasts for several weeks, but the rather smart green foliage remains attractive long after the blooms have faded, helping to protect bare soil throughout the growing season.

What more reason do you need, then, to pick up some creeping phlox live plants from Amazon?

If you’re tired of weeding your backyard borders already, creeping phlox is the weed-supressing saviour you’ve been waiting for. Moss phlox grows into a low, lush carpet of needle-like foliage just four inches high, dense enough to block weeds yet still lets bulbs push through. It happily co-exists with bigger perennials and shrubs, and brings drifts of pretty flowers all through April and May that are a nectar-rich treat for early bees and butterflies. While Phlox subulata spreads pretty quickly, it’s not invasive and, thanks to its very shallow roots, is simple to pull up if it ever wanders where it’s not supposed to.

A polite, faff-free groundcover that brings flowers as it banishes weeds? Yes please!

I added creeping phlox to two big borders in my front yard a couple of years ago as groundcover to suppress weeds, largely because I hate doing garden chores where all the world can see me. I soon discovered that it was super-easy to split moss phlox to get new plants for free. So my mat of moss-like foliage quickly grew, creeping around all the other plants in the border so weeds don’t even get a look-in. Problem sorted!

Moss phlox is a perennial so this border is now going to stay pretty much weed-free forever more. It's evergreen in milder climates and, even though leaf-tips may brown in colder zones 3–5, the foliage is typically retained through winter to give year-round groundcover.

Purple Varieties

Pros & Cons of Creeping Phlox

Moss phlox flowers have a sweet, honey-like scent that’s strongest at dusk to attract pollinating moths. It tolerates light foot traffic so won’t complain when you need to access plants for pruning and, once established, is drought-tolerant. It’s cold-hardy and heat-tolerant, too, so most varieties are suitable for zones 3–9.

What’s the ‘but’ I hear you ask?! There is one teeny-tiny issue, and I’ll get to that! But rest assured that because creeping phlox spreads by growing leafy, above-ground stems that root into the soil when they make contact, there’s no worrying about rhizomes running riot underground where you can’t see them. Each plant grows into a mat that’s around 18–24 inches wide, and the trick to ensuring their spread is an amiable amble that leaves plenty of space for neighboring perennials to grow is to keep to this planting distance and be patient for a year or two while the gaps are slowly filled.

This spreading habit means that creeping phlox will spill over a pathway and tumble down the face of a raised bed or wall, too.

But yes, let's get to that ‘but’! When the leaves are crushed underfoot, they can release a musky aroma that some liken to the smell of cannabis. No judgement here, but best to know!

Pink Varieties

Where to Grow Creeping Phlox

Creeping phlox grows best in a sunny spot which gets at least six hours of sunlight a day. It will tolerate partial shade but won’t flower as well or grow such dense, weed-suppressing foliage. Phlox subulata also needs good drainage to thrive so, if your border soil sits wet over winter, this bijou beauty isn't the best solution for you.

Give moss phlox the conditions it loves and, other than watering for the first year while it establishes, the only care needed is to trim off the faded flowers and foliage tips once it's finished blooming. Aim to reduce the mat's height by half to keep the growth dense enough to suppress weeds, which is quick and easy to do with a pair of hedge shears like these from Amazon. If any bare patches develop, simply trim around the gap to stimulate new stems to grow.

Red & White Varieties

How to Make Your Money Go Further

If you buy creeping phlox plants in spring for groundcover, bear in mind that it can be more cost-effective to buy a larger plant and split it into several smaller plants, than it is to buy multiple less mature plants.

Dividing moss phlox is simple to do. Choose a mature plant in a larger pot size and water it thoroughly the day before you plan to divide it. Then ease it out of its pot and, depending on the size of the plant, use your hands to gently split it in half, and in half again if it's large enough, so you have 2 or 4 sections. It's important that each section has a good amount of roots, and it's fine to use a bread knife to help create the sections if the rootball is very dense. Plant each section immediately, water well, and water during dry spells until roots are well established.

You can divide established plants growing in the ground just as easily. So easily, in fact, that I don’t even bother digging the whole plant up now: I simply slice off half the plant with a spade while it's still in the ground, dig up a half and divide that into chunks to replant, and leave the other half to carry on growing where it is. It is important to water the half that's left in the ground, as well as the newly planted sections, to settle soil around the roots and reduce shock.

If you can't decide which variety of moss phlox to grow, then different cultivars will happily intermingle for a tapestry of flowers.

Bare soil isn’t just a sad patch of brown in the garden – it’s an open invitation for weeds to take root. Leave space, and something will fill it. So, why not fill it with plants you actually want? Happily, the solution is simple: use low, spreading groundcover plants that will choke out weeds and look good while doing it. But if you think traditional options are boring, then try groundcover herbs that offer the same benefits with the bonus of a heavenly scent and culinary uses.

Early spring is the perfect time to plant groundcover herbs, once the soil is workable. Some herbs can be started from seed, while others are better added as nursery plants. Once established, you’ll notice the difference fast. These low-growing herbs form a tight layer, blocking weeds, releasing scent in the warmth, and giving you fresh harvests through the season. Unlike more invasive herbs like mint, they’ll also stay controlled and not take over the garden.

To get the full groundcover benefits from these herbs, plant them closer than standard spacing. You will see fewer weeds where plants meet and overlap. Looking after groundcover herbs is easy – simply water well in the first few weeks and trim after flowering to keep growth compact.

Best Groundcover Herbs

Use two or three of these edible groundcover herbs and repeat them across the planting area to keep everything looking neat and make maintenance simple. Remember to choose herbs that are suitable for your USDA hardiness zone – or equivalent if outside the US – as well as soil type and light levels.

1. Creeping Thyme

Creeping thyme is the most popular groundcover herb, prized for its tight carpet of low and dense foliage. However, it is most loved for its gorgeous pink-purple flowers, which bees enjoy even more than we do. This delightful groundcover tolerates moderate footfall, which releases its aroma.

As a Mediterranean herb, creeping thyme thrives in full sun and rarely needs watering once established. It prefers poor to average soil, and is perfect for rockeries, pathways, and drought-tolerant landscaping. In colder regions, plants may turn brown in winter in colder regions but soon recover in spring.

To enjoy its wonderful flavor, harvest small sprigs often and pair them with roasted vegetables, chicken, or fish.

2. Roman Chamomile

Roman chamomile forms a lovely frothy white carpet and makes a good lawn alternative. You notice a softer look here – chamomile never feels rigid or clipped, meaning it suits informal edges and paths.

The leaves carry a light apple scent, released when crushed, while flowers are a useful sleep aid, appearing throughout the summer. Use them to make a relaxing chamomile tea.

Roman chamomile prefers full sun but has an advantage over other herb groundcovers in that it tolerates light shade. Trim plants after flowering to keep growth dense.

3. Oregano

Oregano is a low-maintenance, flowering groundcover that is adored by pollinators. Foliage becomes dense by early summer and shades the soil, while its pretty pink flowers appear in summer.

Choose from common oregano, which is robust and aromatic, Greek oregano, with its intense flavor, golden oregano with vibrant yellow-green leaves, and variegated oregano with mottled foliage and white flowers. Ideal for sunny spots, it thrives in well-drained soil, and is fairly drought-tolerant once established – though it will need some watering in dry spells.

Cut back by one-third after flowering to keep plants tight and harvest often. The leaves dry well and hold flavor, pairing beautifully with tomatoes, grilled meats, and olive oil.

4. Marjoram

Though marjoram is often used interchangeably with oregano, the flavor is milder and sweeter, and you will see a difference if the plants are side by side. Marjoram growth looks lighter and more refined, forming soft mounds, which suit a neater planting style.

When used as groundcover, the plants knit together, and foliage stays full through warm weather, with dense and woody stems that help block weeds at the base. White, pale pink, or purple flowers are nectar-rich, supporting pollinators and adding a romantic touch to planting.

Use marjoram fresh in salads, eggs, and tomato dishes.

5. Prostrate Rosemary

Creeping, or prostrate, rosemary grows low and spreads outward, then trails over edges. It works best at the edge of a bed or wall, where stems can spill and cover exposed soil below. Use on slopes, raised beds, or edges, where drought-tolerant groundcover is needed.

In mild climates, the aromatic foliage stays evergreen, with a dense and woody base for full weed-smothering potential. Blue flowers appear in warmer months.

Harvest rosemary stems as needed to make meats and potatoes shine.

Weeding borders can be an endless task. All that bare soil, regularly watered, creates a welcoming home for weed seeds to germinate and take full advantage of your garden hospitality. But there’s a very easy answer to suppress weeds and drastically reduce weeding time: add some low-growing groundcover plants that will keep those pesky weeds out of your borders altogether.

This isn’t just a practical solution – it’s pretty, too. The right groundcover adds another layer of color and texture to a border, creating an attractive carpet of flowers and foliage beneath bigger perennial plants and shrubs. All eight of our recommendations are evergreen and perennial, so they’ll look good and keep on top of weeds year in, year out, year-round.

These low-growing lovelies are all low maintenance groundcovers and easy to grow, too, and act as a living mulch, reducing moisture evaporation from bare ground.

When you’re choosing the right border groundcover to grow among other plants, the trick is to pair up their growing habits with your border needs. That way, the groundcover will scoot around existing plants without swamping your herbaceous perennials or shrubs. Which of these best groundcover plants is right for your backyard border?

1. Best Groundcover For a Perennial Border

Creeping Phlox is one of those gardening easy wins, where you have to do very little but the rewards are so generous. There are many cultivars but Phlox subulata ‘Amazing Grace’ is a favorite with a mass of tiny white flowers in spring, each with a magenta centre, that light up a border but leave the spotlight to bigger perennials. The foliage is neat with needle-like leaves, spreading to 2 feet but just 4 inches high, and all you need do to keep the plant looking good is shear off the spent flowers. If any bare patches appear, a quick trim brings a spurt of fresh stems. Creeping phlox is considered evergreen, though it may lose leaves in the coldest zones. Zones 3-9.

2. Best For a Small Garden

Creeping thyme creates beautiful groundcover and red creeping thyme is even better than the rest! Thymus praecox ‘Coccineus’ has bright crimson to magenta-pink flowers all through summer, adding another layer of color to any sunny perennial border. The tiny evergreen leaves are aromatic with a refreshing lemony scent, and grow into a dense, weed-suppressing mat. So 'Coccineus' really earns its space in a small garden but it’s this cultivar’s slow-growing nature that makes it ideal for a compact space. Position plants 18 inches apart and they will gently spread outwards to form a mat over 2–3 years. It spreads by rooting trailing stems, rather than sending out underground runners or aggressively seeding, so once the plant has reached the desired size, it’s super-easy to control by simply pulling up excess growth. Zones 3–9.

3. Best For Unusual Groundcover in Warmer Zones

If you can get your tongue around its name, this evergreen jasmine will fill bare soil with variegated foliage that’s a fabulous mix of pink, white and green. In summer, the small white flowers of Trachelospermum asiaticum Snow-N-Summer (‘Hosns’) will bring a sweet fragrance to your garden, too. The plant only reaches 8–10 inches high but grows to 3 feet wide, and because its growth rate is moderate, it won’t swamp other plants in a border. Grow this perennial in your front yard, in sun or part shade, and everyone will want to know what this highly unusual groundcover plant is! Zones 7–9.

4. Best Pretty Underplanting For Roses

Pop this little sweetie beneath roses and other sizeable shrubs and blue star creeper will scamper around the other plants to form an evergreen carpet. Its tiny flowers bloom a pretty soft blue from spring into summer, often lasting longer in milder climates. Isotoma fluviatilis grows to a petite 3–4 inches high but can spread to two feet. Don't be fooled by this plant's diminutive size: it may be small but it is enthusiastic, so give it a line to grow to: edging your border (a simple no-dig kit like this from Amazon makes it easy) means you can trim excess stems in a trice and keep this creeper where it’s supposed to be. It likes consistent moisture so it’s perfect for borders with plants you need to keep watered through dry spells. Zones 5–9 (it may be semi-evergreen in colder climates.)

5. Best Spreading Groundcover For Shade

Bugle is a super-useful groundcover plant as it thrives in full shade (though it’s happy in sun too), and this cultivar has attractive evergreen leaves in a lovely chocolate-purple shade. The foliage has a slight sheen, so don’t worry about the dark tone of the leaves as they reflect light for a lovely textured effect. Ajuga reptans 'Chocolate Chip' is a dwarf variety so it’s far less rampant than its bigger cousins, only spreading to a foot wide. It’s low-growing to 2–3 inches, forming a dense mat of leaves that block weeds very effectively year-round, and throws up short spikes of lavender-blue flowers in spring. Zones 4–9.

6. Best Clumping Groundcover For Shade

Here’s another handy shade-loving plant that makes excellent groundcover, but this one naturally grows into neat mounds and doesn’t spread, so it’s better for smaller borders. Coral bells ‘Citronelle’ grows to a foot high and two feet wide so to use it as groundcover, simply position multiple plants two feet apart. The well-shaped foliage is a wonderful lime green so it lights up a shady spot and shows off darker plants a treat, and is pretty much evergreen, though severe winters can cause it to temporarily lose its leaves. Heuchera ‘Citronelle’ has sprays of small creamy-white flowers in summer but it’s this fabulous foliage that’s the real star of the show. Zones 4–8.

7. Best For a Bright Border Edge in Dry Soil

You’ve probably heard that ice plants are invasive, but this one isn’t. There are a number of plants that go under the name of ‘ice plant’: Carbobrotus edulis (highway ice plant) and Carpobrotus chilensis are both very invasive, but this is Delosperma and it’s very well behaved. It’s a succulent so it thrives with very little water, so it’ll be happy in a border edge where little else except weeds want to grow. Newer cultivars have been bred to flower prolifically, and Ocean Sunset Orange Glow brings particularly big blooms in incredibly vibrant colors that open in the day and close at night for added interest. It grows in a 4–6 inch-high evergreen mat (though may lose some leaves in extreme winter cold) and spreads to just a foot wide. Zones 5–9.

8. Best Groundcover For Under Big Shrubs

If you’ve got a border of shrubs, then Sedum rupestre ‘Angelina’ is going to be your new best friend. Shrubby borders are usually pretty big and all those roots suck the soil dry, meaning the only plants that want to grow below are weeds – and this characterful succulent! Its evergreen needle-like foliage is a bright chartreuse green for great tone and texture, and grows into a spreading mat dotted with tiny yellow flowers in early summer. A fast and enthusiastic grower, this sedum will cover bare soil in a flash – while each plant spreads to a foot wide, stems will root wherever they’re in contact with the ground. Shallow-rooted, it’s simple to pull up to control its spread, though that strong growth means it’s best suited to pairing with bigger plants. Zones 3–11.

If you were to measure a plant’s worth in pretty flowers or lush leaves per cent spent, these gorgeous grow-from-seed groundcovers would win, roots down. Whether you’ve got a large area of soil to cover or simply want to fill in garden gaps to suppress weeds, all these groundcover plants can be raised from seed to give you great results for very little outlay. Some are perennial groundcover recommendations for a permanent transformation; others are annual groundcover plants for a temporary fix while you decide what to do with a tricky garden spot, or self-seeders that will spring up every year with minimal intervention from you.

Groundcover plants are a great way to cut down on garden maintenance but there’s more to these low-growing beauties than purely practical benefits. They will add color and texture to your backyard in place of ugly patches of bare soil, and many will happily thrive where little else will grow. Lots have a profusion of small leaves that will creep over paving edges or spill over retaining walls, softening hard landscaping and quickly making your garden look mature. Some are beautifully scented and can tolerate being walked on, so you can plant up pathway sides for a fragrant walkway. Using the same groundcover choice in a few different spots is such an easy way to tie your garden design together, too.

Spring is the perfect time to plant groundcover gems. These may not be the star plants in your garden, but they are an essential element of your backyard line-up. Which will suit your garden best?

1. Best For a Super-Easy Blast of Color in a Sunny Spot

Moss roses (Portulaca grandiflora) bring cheery blooms in vibrant red, pink, orange, yellow, violet and white in glorious ruffles of crepe-paper-like petals that open in the daytime and close each evening. This is a succulent so it’s a good choice for a hot, dry and sunny spot, where it will create a foot-wide mat of 8-inch-high foliage and flowers from spring through fall. It’s incredibly low-maintenance, too, as it stores water in its leaves so needs minimal watering once established, and will bloom continually, even if you don’t bother to deadhead.

Being an annual, moss roses are extremely easy to grow from seed, available from Eden Brothers. Sow directly in your garden after your last frost date or start inside 6–8 weeks before. Plants are tender in zones 2–8 so will be zapped by your first frost, though often behave as perennials in warmer zones. It readily self-seeds so will likely be back all by itself the following year but if you only want this to be a temporary fix, it’s easy to control by removing the seedheads.

2. Best for Year-Round Fragrance & Foliage

Creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum) is such a generous plant, providing a dense carpet of tiny evergreen leaves all year round in zones 4–9. And just wait till you smell the fresh lemony fragrance that’s released when you step on them! That glorious scent makes creeping thyme perfect for groundcover around stepping stones, and some folk even grow creeping thyme lawns as it can tolerate light traffic.

Seeds are tiny and slow to grow at first, but the 4-inch-high plants can spread up to 18 inches in their first year, though you may have to wait until their second summer to enjoy the violet flowers. They’re slow to germinate, too, so be sure to buy your seed from a trusted supplier, and creeping thyme seeds are available from Eden Brothers. The trick to success is giving them consistent warmth and light: start seeds indoors up to 8 weeks before your last frost date, sprinkle them on the soil surface with just a light sprinkle of vermiculite over the top, in a seed-starting tray with a clear lid, preferably on a seedling heat mat. Then keep the compost mix evenly moist (and this can mean misting twice a day). Granted, it is a bit of a faff – but your efforts will be well rewarded with long-lasting, low-maintenance perennial plants that give excellent groundcover.

3. Best All-Year Pleaser That’s Polite Enough For Border Edges

If you’re after a well-behaved perennial groundcover plant that spreads without running riot over your garden and looks lovely year-round, Dianthus deltoides is a top choice for a sunny spot in zones 3–9. The evergreen needle-like leaves form a dense mat of foliage that grows up to a foot wide and 6–8 inches tall, in an attractive gray-green color that lasts through winter. The plant spreads by throwing out trailing stems that root, so it’s easy to contain if needed, and will graciously work its way around bigger plants in a border.

‘Arctic Fire’, available from Burpee, is a particularly pretty Dianthus deltoides cultivar with pretty white flowers of edible fringed petals with deep red centres from May to August. It flowers in its first year and the seed needs consistent temperatures of 60–70°F to germinate, so sow outside after your last frost date or start indoors up to 8 weeks before.

4. Best For Suppressing Weeds in a Vegetable Patch

Sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima) is a fast-growing annual that provides wonderful groundcover in borders but particularly in vegetable beds. It forms a dense mat but is polite enough to grow around other plants, and is quick to flower, taking just two months to go from seed to bloom. But sweet alyssum’s best attribute is its heavenly honey fragrance that pollinators love, drawing beneficial insects such as ladybugs to protect your crops from pests.

‘Royal Carpet’ is a cultivar that’s particularly well thought of for its use as a living mulch because it’s low-growing, only reaching 2–6 inches high, with abundant dark violet flowers: shear in mid-summer and you’ll be rewarded with a second flush. This variety is also exceptionally easy to grow from seed, available from Amazon, making it ideal for beginner and expert gardeners alike. Sow outside after your last frost date or indoors 4–6 weeks before. Suitable for zones 4–11, it self-seeds so you’ll likely get free plants for zero effort forever more.

5. Best For a Relaxed Cottagecore Aesthetic

If you’ve never heard of Virginia stock (Malcolmia maritima), then listen up! These fast-growing annuals are oh-so-pretty and grow from seed to a carpet of fragrant 10-inch-high pink, white and purple flowers in under two months. Although it’s an annual, this is a prolific self-seeder so once you’ve added it to your garden, you’ll never be without it.

Any plant with ‘maritima’ in its name indicates that it has evolved in a coastal environment so are often exceptionally tough with a real will to live. Virginia stock is no exception and you’ll find this delightful bloom popping up in pathway cracks and along patio edges as it thrives in meager conditions where most plants would struggle to survive. For this reason, it’s useful as a gap filler on border and path edges.

Virginia stock seeds are available from Eden Brothers. Sow directly where you want the seeds to grow. They’re fairly cold-tolerant so it's fine to sow once the soil can be worked, up to four weeks before your last frost date. Often germinating within a week, this is a super-easy plant for beginners and children to try, too, and is suitable for zones 3–10.

6. Best for Year-Round Lush Leaves in Hot Zones

Perennial kidney weed (Dichondra repens) is often used as a lawn replacement in Mediterranean countries as it stays green all year-round in mild climates, in sun or partial shade. It can’t cope with prolonged frozen spells, though, so it’s only hardy in zones 8–11. But as long as it’s warm enough, the glossy, deep green kidney-shaped leaves form a lush, springy carpet of foliage, adorned with a sprinkle of tiny yellow flowers in spring and summer.

Naturally low-growing to reach a height of 3 inches, Dichondra repens is low maintenance once established, though you can give it a light mow three or four times a year for the best texture and it will need watering through prolonged dry spells to stay lush.

Sow kidney weed seed, available from Amazon, directly where it’s to grow, once soil temperatures are reliably above 65°F in late spring. The trick to success is to keep the soil consistently moist from sowing through the seedling stage.

7. Best Resistance to Rabbits, Deer & Road-Users

Aurina saxatilis is a perennial that’s often referred to as alyssum, but don't confuse it with annual sweet alyssum. Aurina saxatilis ‘Basket of Gold’ is a particularly good cultivar for groundcover if you struggle to outsmart the local rabbit and deer population as it’s rarely eaten by these big-appetite browsers. It spills so stylishly over a bank or retaining wall and can even cope with salt spray, so it’s a great choice for a front yard or driveway.

'Basket of Gold' is drought- and heat-tolerant, doesn’t mind poor soil and loves a sunny location, forming foot-high mounds of attractive gray-green foliage that’s evergreen in zones 3–10. Bees and butterflies will appreciate the profusion of bright yellow fragrant flowers in spring.

Easy to grow from seed, even for beginner gardeners, it needs temperatures of around 65°F to germinate so sow directly outside after your last frost date or start indoors up to 8 weeks before. Growing Aurina saxatilis from seed is far better than buying plants as it doesn’t like to be moved once established. Aurina saxatilis seeds are available from Eden Brothers.

8. Best For a Tricky Spot with Poor Soil and Dry Conditions

Rock cress (Aubrieta deltoidea) will grow pretty much anywhere, laughing in the face of dry, rocky or sandy soil where most plants struggle to cope. Hardy in zones 4–9, this tough cookie perennial is extremely drought-tolerant once established, and its only requirement is a quick shear to reduce its height by half once it's finished flowering to keep it growing in a low, 6-inch-high carpet of tiny evergreen leaves. In return, rock cress will treat you to an abundance of pretty four-petalled purple flowers in late spring to early summer.

With a shallow yet extensive root system, this is a handy plant to help to stabilise a steep slope, and each will spread to 1–2 feet wide, meaning a packet of seeds can cover a big area.

Aubrieta deltoidea is simple to grow from seed, available from Amazon. The seeds need light to germinate, so press them lightly into moist soil or lightly cover with vermiculite. You can direct-sow after your last frost date or start indoors 6–8 weeks before. They can take up to three weeks to germinate (a little less if they have consistent warmth) so be patient with these little pretties.

9. Best For Acidic Soil

Finding a groundcover plant that’ll thrive on acidic soil is tricky, but here’s a lovely solution that can be grown from seed. Irish moss (Sagina subulata), also known as heath pearlwort, is happy in acidic or neutral soil and grows into dense evergreen cushions 1–2 inches high and up to a foot across that can tolerate light foot traffic.

This perennial is a little particular about where it grows, but give Irish moss the right conditions and it will create a wonderfully textured groundcover, studded with tiny white flowers in summer. It needs moist but well-draining soil and full sun with midday shade, where it’s fast-growing but easy to remove if it spreads too far. Sagina subulata dislikes intense heat and drought so it’s best for the temperate climates of zones 4–7 where it’s reliably hardy through the winter.

It’s similarly straightforward to grow from seed, available from Amazon, as long it you give it the right conditions, sowing outdoors after the last frost once the soil temperature is reliably above 65°F, or indoors a few weeks beforehand. Consistent moisture and light is crucial for germination.

Tired of looking out of the window and seeing bare soil in your borders or beneath shrubs and trees? Act now and come spring, these forlorn patches will be the prettiest parts of your garden! The trick is to add some low-growing groundcover for a carpet of color and texture that will thrive beneath your bigger, established plants.

But don’t just pop to the garden center for a dime-a-dozen groundcover plant that’s available pretty much everywhere. There are lots of more uncommon cultivars – many of them recently introduced – that will cheer up your garden with plenty more panache, adding a modern tone, unusual leaf-shape or striking color. Newer cultivars are typically bred to be better behaved and more disease-resistant than their older counterparts, too, bringing all of the benefits without any of the drawbacks.

Many of these varieties aren’t so widely available, however, so buy them while you still can. All our pretty picks are easy-to-grow perennial plants so they’ll sort that bare soil for years to come.

Our Pick of the Prettiest Varieties

Which is Best for My Garden?

As well as considering the usual selectors such as planting for your zone, and sun, shade and soil preferences, when you’re buying groundcover plants it’s vital to match their rate of spread to the space you’ve got. Most of these plants are spreaders by nature – that’s what makes them great groundcover plants – but some are more aggressive than others. Lilyturf muscari spreads rapidly via rhizomatous roots, so it’s really useful if you’ve got a large area to cover, but it’ll be a nuisance if you only want a small patch cheering up. In this case, Pulmonaria would be a better option as it has a clump-forming habit and slowly spreads, by self-seeding as well as root expansion, into a 2–3’ patch.

Plenty of our picks are evergreen in most zones, so think about whether you want the benefit of that bare soil being covered through winter. Spreaders are often naturally rabbit- and deer-resistant, too, so be sure to check if these critters are a pest in your garden.

Some plants marketed as ground cover can be invasive, so be sure to steer clear of these.

Using native ground cover in your landscape has several benefits. Firstly, these plants are adapted to the soil, temperatures, and pressures of their local range. This makes them less needy, more waterwise, and generally need less maintenance.

Native plants are also adapted to the other flora and fauna of the region. They support the wild ecology, providing food, cover, host sites for certain larvae, and encourage the local pollinators to come visit your garden. Native ground covers can save resources like fertilizer and water because they tend to be more stoic than imported species.

Native ground cover plants will also reduce weeds, conserve moisture, keep the soil cool in summer and warm in winter, and act as a natural mulch. Native plants are also hardy to their range, both in summer and winter.

1. Phlox

There are several fabulous phlox varieties useful for a sunny site in your garden. Prairie phlox (Phlox pilosa) has charming pink flowers and persistent foliage. Creeping phlox (Phlox subulata) has needle-like, evergreen leaves and pink flowers. Both are slightly drought tolerant once established, and can thrive even in sandy soil.

Find prairie phlox seeds from Walmart and get ready for beautiful blooms from May to July.

2. Bearberry

Bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi) is a sun-loving groundcover that tops out at about 1 foot ( .305 m) and has evergreen foliage. Small bell-shaped flowers adorn bearberries and the shrubs are very cold hardy. They thrive in USDA Zones 2-6.

Bearberry is not picky about soil and can even be grown in coastal regions. It will creep out through spreading rhizomes and fill in an area quickly. Bearberries also have pretty, little red berries. Find bearberry shrubs from the Home Depot.

3. Wild Strawberry

Wild strawberries are edible, but do not approach the size of cultivated berries. The plant is low growing and produces sweet, little white flowers. Bees and other pollinators are drawn to the nectar in these native flowers. Find wild strawberry seeds on Etsy to get growing this cheery native groundcover in your yard.

4. Green-and-Gold

Green-and-gold plants (Chrysogonum virginianum) feature tiny yellow flowers that bloom between April and October and are hardy in Zones 5-10. Also called golden star, this plant is particularly useful at the sunny edges of a woodland garden where the small spreading leaves and bright, yellow flowers brighten the area.

Find green-and-gold plants at the Home Depot or your local garden center.

5. Pachysandra

Pachysandra is a semi-evergreen ground cover plant with tidy little leaves and scented white blooms. Pachysandra is deer resistant and a powerful attractant for pollinators. This is also a low-maintenance plant that may occasionally need cutting back, but otherwise needs little more than consistent moisture. Find pachysandra from Native Wildflowers to add a carpet of green to the shady areas of your Zone 4-9 garden.

6. Wild Stonecrop

Unlike its cousins, wild stonecrop sedum (Sedum ternatum) can tolerate partial to full shade. The thick leaves are generally evergreen except in the most northernmost sites. Star-like white flowers arrive in spring. The plant can be easily started from stem fragments and has the potential to escape an area. Find seeds to grow your own wild stonecrop, also called woodland stonecrop, from Etsy.

7. Wild Ginger

Wild ginger (Asarum canadense) is easy to establish and low maintenance. It can tolerate dappled light or full shade. The heart shaped leaves are attractive and slightly furred. The flowers aren’t conspicuous but do attract certain pollinating flies which are important to our ecosystem. Native wild ginger plants are available from Native Wildflowers and will thrive in USDA Zones 4-8.

8. Foamflower

Foamflower is a great native plant for shady, moist areas. It has gently rounded, lobed leaves and produces a long spike of white flowers in spring. In the South, the leaves remain but they are deciduous in colder regions. In fall, the leaves turn spectacular shades of red and orange for multi-season visual interest. Foamflower is hardy in Zones 3-8 and you can purchase this beauty from Native Wildflowers.

Native Groundcover to Replace Lawns

Alternatives to traditional lawns are becoming more and more popular. This is because the typical lawn requires a lot of maintenance and resources. The mowing, weed control, edging, water, and fertilizer needs of a lawn are extremely high. Substituting native plants, with their easy to grow nature, can reduce much of that upkeep and care.

Plants like creeping phlox, creeping thyme, or creeping juniper are all excellent options to replace the traditional lawn. Growing a moss lawn is another way to mimic that carpet of green without all the maintenance. Irish moss is a great example.

A rather outstanding native option is the common blue violet (Viola sororia). Unlike Viola ordorata, the common violet is native to the Eastern part of North America. It spreads readily and has heart shaped leaves flanked by violet-blue flowers in spring. It is often found in woods and prairies and is fairly tolerant of any lighting situation.

Try some of these great native ground covers to fill in that bare spot in your garden. Or maybe this has inspired you to finally get rid of that lawn!

Many invasive ground covers are popular because they establish easily, grow rapidly, and spread quickly. But these same qualities allow aggressive ground cover plants to escape cultivation, move into natural areas, and choke out native plants.

Given how important native plants are to an ecosystem—especially for pollinators—it’s a good idea to find native alternatives to invasive plants like these. To speed up your search for non-invasive ground cover varieties, we’ve listed some of the worst invasive plants and great native alternatives to replace them in your garden.

Benefits of Native Ground Covers

Native plants are naturally evolved to your region. They’re perfectly adjusted to the soil, the sun exposure, and the pests. They grow without fertilizer, pesticides, or wind protection. They provide food and shelter for native pollinators and other wildlife and help sustain the native ecosystem.

Native ground cover plants are proven champs when it comes to keeping weeds away, preventing damage from erosion, and drought tolerance. From every perspective, choosing a native ground cover is your best bet for a lovely, low-maintenance landscape.

Invasive Ground Covers To Avoid

Here are six invasive ground cover plants to avoid. They crowd out native plants, and once established, prove extremely difficult to remove. We also have alternative suggestions of native plants that are just as beautiful, easy to grow, and so much better for the environment.

1. Periwinkle

This one hurts! I love both the vibrant blue color known as periwinkle and the vinca ground cover with blue flowers that goes by the same name. Still, there’s no denying that common periwinkle (Vinca minor) is invasive and difficult to control.

Common periwinkle is an invasive vine with glossy evergreen leaves and five-petaled blue flowers. Vinca plants re-root as they spread and grow quickly into dense stands that readily escape cultivation. When vinca moves into a natural area, it chokes out low-growing native species.

A good alternative to vinca vines is Hearst Ranch buckbrush (Ceanothus hearstiorum). It’s a Southwest native ground cover that stays under a foot (.3 m) tall and spreads to 9 feet (3 m) across. The plant grows masses of spring flowers in a gorgeous periwinkle blue. Like periwinkle ground cover, buckbrush grows in sun and shade.

Shop more low-growing California lilacs from Nature Hills Nursery.

2. Wintercreeper

Wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei) is another invasive vine that was brought to this country as an ornamental ground cover, but then became a big problem. The vine is very appealing, with variegated leaves of bright green and cream, white spring flowers, and red berries in autumn.

But wintercreeper is hard to control, which makes it very invasive. The vines dash across the soil, sinking roots and crowding out native flowers. They also climb trees and can smother and kill them.

Forget wintercreeper and plant a native ground cover like bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi). Like wintercreeper, it has attractive, leathery evergreen leaves. Foliage turns reddish in fall and winter, adding to its four-season appeal.

It also produces bright berry-like fruit that appears after pinkish white flowers in late summer and lasts into winter. This extremely hardy, acid-loving perennial can survive the cold all the way up to USDA growing zone 2.

Buy bearberry today from the Home Depot.

3. English Ivy

Most of us know English ivy (Hedera helix), the vine with star-shaped leaves, as it is among one of the most popular ground covers available. It’s easy to grow, thrives in sun or shade, and tolerates any soil. The vine spreads fast, quickly covering a large landscape with its shiny evergreen foliage.

But the problems grow almost as quickly as the ivy itself. Stems become thick and hairy, and the vine climbs everything in its path, from trees to buildings, smothering all surrounding vegetation.

As an alternative to English ivy, plant wild ginger (Asarum canadense), a low-growing and hardy native species. This plant have lovely, heart-shaped leaves and grows best in shade.

You can buy wild ginger ground cover online from Walmart.

4. Italian Arum

Italian arum (Arum italicum) has lovely, speckled leaves of bright green and white that are shaped like large, long arrowheads. This plant is often sold in garden stores as a shade-tolerant ground cover that offers unusual flowers with papery spathes.

But they are vigorous growers in moist soil and easily spread out of control. They quickly form dense stands, pushing out all native plants and wildflowers. Another negative of the arum plant is the fact that its leaves, flowers, and red berries are poisonous.

Instead of Italian arum, plant a native ground cover that also likes shade, like golden star (Chrysogonum virginianum). This is a low-growing perennial that spreads via rhizomes. It forms a foliage mat with star-shaped blossoms in brilliant yellow that bloom from spring to fall in cool climates.

Fill your garden with golden star plants fast by ordering a flat from Amazon.

5. Kudzu

Kudzu (Pueraria montana) is another invasive vine from Asia. It was imported to this country in the 1800s as an ornamental ground cover, offering fast growth, rounded leaves, and fragrant purple blossoms in spring. Today it is recognized as a highly invasive vining weed.

Kudzu is one of the most invasive vines that you should avoid at all costs. It grows lightning fast, up to a foot everyday. It is also extremely hard to get rid of since it develops a powerful root system. These vines can cover huge swaths of land, killing trees, shrubs, and native wildflowers in its path.

Instead of kudzu, plant wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens), a native plant that makes an appealing, easy-care ground cover for shady locations. This blueberry relative grows to 6 inches (15 cm) tall and produces scarlet berries that remain on the vine during winter. Its foliage also has delightfully minty fragrance.

Start your wintergreen plants from seeds you can get on Amazon.

Ground cover and other low-growing flowers are beneficial in the landscape for many reasons. In addition to the sheer beauty that these plants add to ornamental gardens; they are also an effective means to suppress weeds, maintain moisture levels in soil, and may even help to control erosion.

Flowering ground covers aren’t just for beds or sloped areas you are trying to cover. They are also great options for growing in rock gardens, between stones in pathways, or along borders.

While it is true that most ground cover plants flower very little, there are some low-growing flowers that bloom all summer long. Below, we will discuss five of the most popular long blooming ground covers in greater detail.

1. Cuphea

Perennial in USDA growing zones 9-11, cuphea, or Mexican heather, behaves as an evergreen groundcover. Masses of petite flowers are produced along glossy, fern-like branches. This ground cover that blooms all summer is especially attractive to butterflies, hummingbirds, and beneficial insects. If you are looking to add a bright pop of color and help you local pollinators, you can find a vibrant purple cuphea at Home Depot.

2. Dianthus

When it comes to low-growing perennials, blooming all summer can be a high demand. While several types of plants do have a distinct flowering window, many species hold their blooms exceptionally well in the garden. Short-lived perennial and biennial dwarf dianthus plants are no exception to this. Dianthus plants generally range in shades of white, pink, red, or variations of deep burgundy. This sweet pink dianthus comes in a three-pack from Home Depot.

3. Geum

Though somewhat taller than most low-growing perennials, several species of geum serve as excellent bedding plants. Specifically, Geum coccineum produces highly ornamental textured foliage amid striking single and double blooms. Though geum is able to thrive under a wide range of soil conditions, plants grow best in regions with cooler summer temperatures. Bright orange blooms will pop in your garden after you plant Geum coccineum Borisii seeds which can be found in the Hazzard’s Greenhouse storefront on Amazon.

4. Ice Plant

Despite its name, ice plants are well adapted for growth in regions with warm summer weather. Ornamental, succulent leaves help the plants to easily withstand prolonged periods of drought. Also called Livingstone daisies, they are an excellent drought-tolerant ground cover choice for rock gardens and other types of water-wise landscapes. Throughout summer, gardeners can expect a profusion of small, daisy-like blooms. Find a delicately beautiful pastel mix of ice plant seeds at Eden Brothers.

5. Campanula Bellflower

This long-blooming perennial is suitable for growing zones 3-8 and tolerates full sun to partial shade. Campanula bellflowers create a sweet, colorful carpet of tiny purple blooms that will last through the spring and most of summer. It attracts bees and other pollinators and is resistant to deer and rabbits. You can find campanula bellflower at Walmart.

These flowering groundcover perennials are sure to add a pop of color to your garden all summer long and will give a boost to your local pollinators. Give some of these low-growing perennials a chance and see how they can benefit your garden.

Ground covers are a top choice as turf alternatives for many homeowners. Like grass, they grow close to the ground. But unlike grass, they don’t need to be mowed. Ground covers give you a lot of other design options, too: evergreen or deciduous, native or non-native, with flowers or without.

I personally have always loved ground covers for the areas of the garden where it’s tough to grow grass. They fill in areas where turf struggles to grow and create lush carpets, adding texture and color. Here are some of my must-have ground cover plants that I’ve used over the years to replace parts of my traditional turf lawn.

Why Grow Ground Cover?

There are many good reasons to choose ground cover plants over grass. You might not want to cover your entire lawn, but these are the benefits I’ve seen from transforming some of my grass lawn into spreads of ground cover:

• It covers areas where grass struggles to grow. I’ve found ground cover especially useful in shady areas. You can find plenty of partial sun and shade ground covers that thrive even in gardens that lack lots of natural light.
• Ground cover is low maintenance. If you have a large yard and don’t want to maintain so much turf, replace some of it with a lush lawn alternative like a thoughtfully chosen ground cover that doesn’t require much care.
• Create a wildlife habitat with native ground covers or use ground cover plants to attract beneficial insects like pollinators. Turf grass looks nice, but it’s a monoculture that doesn’t do much to support bees, butterflies, and other wildlife.
• Finally, for me, I love the look of ground cover. Grass is fine, but one or more ground cover plants can add a variety of colors, textures, and flowering ground covers that break up the expanse.

My Must-Have Ground Covers

My favorite types of ground cover add visual interest, are low maintenance, and suit the conditions where I want it to grow. Here are the low-growing plants I recommend for almost every garden.

1. Creeping Thyme

Creeping thyme is one of my favorite ground covers. It grows very low to the ground, in some cases no more than 2 inches (5 cm) high, and carpets the ground with flowers throughout summer.

It’s an evergreen perennial in most of its growing range, so even when it’s not in bloom, creeping thyme creates a large area of green, lush growth. Grow a creeping thyme lawn as an easy-care alternative to traditional turf. Start plants from seeds, which you can get in bulk on Amazon.

You can grow creeping thyme almost anywhere in USDA growing zones 2 through 9. This fragrant ground cover plant needs a location with full sun and well-draining soil, but overall it’s low maintenance and tolerates both poor soil nutrition and drought.

2. Pachysandra

Japanese spurge, or pachysandra, is a perennial evergreen that grows no more than 6 inches (15 cm) tall. It has leathery, dark green leaves that grow densely and is one of the best ground cover plants to prevent weeds. Pachysandra is sometimes hard to find at nurseries and big box stores, but you can get live pachysandra plants online from Garden Goods Direct.

I first grew pachysandra to fill in a shady area where not much else would grow. Be aware, though, that pachysandra is considered invasive in some places. If you choose to grow it, be prepared to keep it contained. Avoid growing it near natural wooded areas where it can readily spread.

3. Moss Phlox

Moss phlox, or creeping phlox (Phlox subulata), is a pretty, low-growing flower that blooms in spring with a stunning display of color. This is a great choice of ground cover if you’re looking for a native option in the eastern U.S. ‘Sherwood Purple’ is a stunning jewel-toned variety that would look gorgeous in a native garden or perennial border.

Phlox is hardy in zones 3 through 9. It prefers sun but will tolerate some shade. Phlox grows best in soil that drains well, but stays consistently moist. If you cut back the flowers after they are spent, you might get a rebloom. Phlox fits into many areas of the garden, but I particularly like to use it around stones for a simple but elegant rock garden.

4. Dwarf Cinquefoil

Dwarf cinquefoil (Potentilla canadensis) is a low, mat-forming perennial flower native to most of the eastern U.S. and Canada. Also known as creeping potentilla, this ground cover is easy to grow and rewards you with pretty yellow flowers in spring and summer. It’s also semi-evergreen, so you’ll get some growth year round.

Dwarf cinquefoil is a great native choice for supporting wildlife. Pollinators love it, as do birds who eat the seeds. Grow it in full sun or partial shade in soil that drains very well.

This beautiful native plant can be difficult to find. Look for local native plant sales, native plant nurseries, or choose a cinquefoil shrub from Home Depot to get the same look and low-maintenance care needs with the bonus of additional colors.

5. Lamb’s Ear

Lamb’s ear isn’t native, but it’s still a favorite plant of mine. It’s hard to resist the soft, silvery leaves covered in fuzz. Not only are they fun to touch, but lamb’s ear adds a unique texture and color to beds that need a low-growing plant. The ‘Helene von Stein’ lamb’s ear from Nature Hills Nursery is a lovely silver cultivar that will grow happily in most parts of the U.S.

Lamb’s ear is a little taller than other ground covers, reaching about 12 inches (30 cm) high at maturity. A sunny location is best, but some shade is okay for this plant as long as the soil drains well. It can tolerate drought, dry soil, and it’s deer-resistant.

6. Snow-in-Summer

Another non-native that is safe to grow carefully is snow-in-summer (Cerastium tomentosum). I love this ground cover, which grows no more than 12 (30 cm) inches tall, for its profusion of white flowers in spring and early summer.

It’s a fast-growing ground cover that fills in spaces quickly and loves sunny areas, making it one of the most heat-tolerant ground cover plants on this list. While it’s suitable in zones 3 through 8, snow-in-summer is best for dry climates. Buy snow-in-summer seeds in bulk on Amazon to transform your yard or garden with this beautiful, drought-tolerant ground cover.

Anyone who lives in a hot climate understands the challenge of maintaining a lush, green lawn during the heat of summer. Rather than fighting against your native climate, try heat-tolerant ground cover plants as a low-maintenance alternative that adds beauty and durability to your landscape.

Though many hot climate ground covers are highly adaptable, gardeners need to carefully consider the specific conditions of their own growing zone when choosing ground cover plants. Paying special attention to temperature is especially important for gardeners in hot southern regions and other parts of the U.S. that experience high summer temperatures. Learning more about specific ground covers for hot climates can help you select plants that are best suited to your landscape.

One notable characteristic of many heat-loving ground covers is the ease with which they’re able to spread and fill in a landscape. This is great for gardeners looking for a quick transformation in their yard or garden, but if plants spread too aggressively they can become a problem rather than a solution. Before planting, research each plant and whether it is considered invasive in your area.

Best Ground Covers for Heat

Often overlooked, heat-loving ground cover plants can be both useful and attractive additions to the landscape. Many ground cover plants are able to thrive under a wide range of growing conditions, including shaded areas as well as hot and sunny planting sites. Here are some of the best ground covers for heat that look fresh and lovely all summer long.

1. Creeping Juniper

Hardy to USDA zones 4-9, creeping juniper plants are among the most robust ground covers for hot climates. These blue-hued evergreens, like this turquoise cultivar from Home Depot, serve as a beautiful addition to the landscape all year long.

Juniper ground cover plants are ideal for growing down large slopes and look especially stylish when they’re allowed to cascade from the sides of walls or containers. They’re also a popular choice if you are looking to control erosion in the landscape.

2. Bugleweed

Also known as carpet bugle or ajuga, bugleweed is a semi-evergreen ground cover with deep, glossy leaves. Among the most colorful hot climate ground covers, each plant produces a profusion of bright blue-purple flower spikes each spring. There are even black-leaved cultivars, like the stunning ‘Black Scallop’ bugleweed, which you can get by the flat from Amazon.

Bugleweed grows best in lightly shaded areas and woodland gardens. Over time, the plant is able to spread to form a thick mass, which easily suppresses weeds. Monitor this fast-growing ground cover to ensure plants do not escape garden beds.

3. Creeping Thyme

Producing an abundance of tiny purple flowers, creeping thyme is one of the most popular flowering ground covers available. It’s incredibly low maintenance and many varieties are also quite fragrant.

Most gardeners suggest planting creeping thyme near paths and around garden stepping stones. You can also grow a creeping thyme lawn as an easy-care alternative to a traditional turfgrass yard. Start your lawn from seed with these Eden Brothers creeping thyme seeds from Amazon.

4. Liriope

Liriope, also known as monkey grass, reaches about 12 inches (30 cm) high at maturity, making it taller than most heat-loving ground covers. It’s another evergreen plant but this lovely, low-maintenance option produces a profusion of grass-like foliage that makes a beautiful edging for paths through the landscape.

Liriope is one of the best plants for under trees and it also looks right at home in formal ornamental garden borders. This variegated variety from Home Depot would look stunning under the shade of an oak tree or lining a path to your front door.

5. Stonecrop

Stonecrop, which is a heat-loving type of sedum, is a low-growing perennial that functions as a great ground cover for hot climates. Succulent foliage makes stonecrop an exceptionally interesting addition to the landscape.

This adaptable plant is able to withstand both hot temperatures and prolonged periods without water, making it a wonderful drought-tolerant ground cover as well. Stonecrop plants are best suited to planting sites with good drainage, like rock gardens and xeriscape lawns. Explore a variety of stonecrop ground cover plants from Lowe’s to find the perfect one for your yard.

Ground cover plants are the gift that keeps giving. The best ground cover plants will prevent erosion and help stabilize soil temperatures as well as suppressing weeds. Creeping juniper, creeping jenny and rock moss are all effective weed controls to try. Ground cover specimens also create a beautiful backdrop for other types of plants.

There are many native types of ground cover from which to choose. These offer the additional benefits of ease of care and adaptability to the local weather, soil conditions, and resistance to certain wild animals. Whatever kinds of ground cover you have in your landscape, make it simple to grow and relatively carefree. Here are some of my favorite kinds of ground cover for every garden.

Choosing the Best Ground Cover Plants

The best ground cover plants offer year-round beauty and effortless greenery. Evergreen plants provide foliage even in winter, while flowering, perennial ground covers offer much-needed color, often early in the growing season. Growth rate is also an important factor – if you are after the fastest growing ground cover, thyme and ajuga can grow several feet per year once established. When selecting from different types of ground cover plants, you should also consider site, soil type, sun exposure, amount of maintenance and hardiness.

1. Sedum

There are around 400-500 species of sedum plants. These easy-to-grow, sun-loving plants come in both erect and prostrate forms. Sedum Sunsparkler ‘Blue Elf’ is a stonecrop variety that grows just three inches (8cm) in height. The thickened, rounded leaves are a delightful blue-green hue. In late summer through early fall, the plant produces hot pink, starry flower clusters held above the foliage on slightly longer stems. The flowers are attractive to many pollinators and emit a subtle, pleasant fragrance. This stonecrop can tolerate almost any soil and is drought-tolerant once it is established.

2. Creeping Phlox

Another ground cover that develops flowers that bring in the pollinators, creeping phlox also has evergreen leaves that are deeply green, oval and pointed at the tips. ‘Sherwood Purple’ is a variety that is slow-growing and is tolerant of partial to full shade. The flowers arrive in spring and have five deeply purple petals with a yellow-orange center. Few pests or insects bother this creeping phlox, and it is even tolerant of moist soil.

3. Marsh Marigold

Unlike annual marigolds, marsh marigolds are perennials in the buttercup family. Sometimes called cowslip, kingcup or cowflock, these ground cover plants are native to North America. They are riparian plants, found in nature along streams and rivers. The plant forms a dense mat over time and will be filled with sweet, yellow flowers in early spring. Marsh marigold prefers moist soil and is a pollinator magnet and cover for wild creatures, while also being deer resistant.

4. Lilyturf

This is another evergreen ground cover selection that produces grass-like clumps of foliage. There are variegated, green and blue options. Creeping lilyturf is an aggressive spreader and is best used where a large area needs ground cover. Purple flower spikes appear in mid to late summer. The plant tolerates both full sun and part shade. It likes well-draining soil which is moderately moist but not soggy. Some gardeners mow it back in early spring to allow new growth to colonize the site.

5. Bugleweed

Ajuga (aka bugleweed) is hardy to USDA zone 4. It has purple-bronze leaves that produce the best color in lower light sites. Bugleweed spreads slowly, but will produce new plants through underground runners. In spring, it develops a dense mat of foliage topped by bright purple flowers. Ajuga grows three-eight inches (8-20cm) in height. It thrives in moist soils, but can tolerate brief periods of dryness.

6. Creeping Juniper

This is one of the old-fashioned, classic types of ground cover plants. An evergreen, creeping juniper comes in several varieties. There is a blue form, as well as green and even gold. The scale-like foliage is dense and few weeds can survive under its canopy. Native to North America, the plant is found in inhospitable soils and sites. It prefers full sun and is tolerant of hot, dry weather once established. It is also deer resistant and adaptable to salt sites. Small, round cones appear at the end of the growing season.

7. Candytuft

One of the earliest blooming plants in spring, candytuft is an evergreen, perennial ground cover plant. It will spread fairly fast, scrambling over rocky or soiled sites. When you grow candytuft, bear in mind it needs well draining soil and full sun. In early spring, the plant is a mass of white blooms, heralding the start of the growing season. Many pollinators enjoy the nectar of the flowers of these ground cover plants, which are hardy to -30°F (-34°C).

8. Japanese Sedge

This ground cover plant is partially evergreen, depending on your zone. Perfect for a shady or partially shady location, Japanese sedge is a clump-forming plant with grass-like blades. It is a cool-season grass and goes semi-dormant when the heat of summer begins. This sedge is deer and rabbit resistant and prefers moist soil of almost any type. There are green and variegated varieties such as Ice Dance.

9. Cotoneaster

Tiny, rounded, evergreen leaves decorate this plant’s arching stems. In spring, it produces small, white or blush flowers, followed by red berries. While cotoneaster comes in many forms, most are only two feet (60m) high at maturity. The plant thrives in full sun or partial shade, growing slowly for the first couple of years, but rapidly increasing growth thereafter. The plant may be pruned to keep it in a certain size or form.

10. Flowering Thyme

Not only does creeping flowering thyme stay evergreen, but it releases a heady herbal fragrance when crushed. Thyme is very cold tolerant, to -20°F (-29°C). The plant will be heavily adorned with reddish-purple flowers in spring. It is deer-resistant and grows up to three inches (8cm) in height when mature. Thyme is moderately tolerant of light foot traffic and turns into a carpet of charming little leaves in no time.

Fast-growing ground cover plants have a host of benefits in the landscape. As well as disguising bare soil, they help to conserve moisture, keep the soil cool in summer and warm in winter, prevent erosion, reduce weeds, and are generally low maintenance.

They also provide beauty – often with flowers but always with greenery. Ground covers soften the landscape and help tie together different parts of the garden.

There are many native plants from which to choose, including woodland and prairie groundcovers. If you wish to buy an imported species, be aware of invasive plants. For example, English ivy is known for its nasty ability to spread where it isn’t wanted and can be difficult to get rid of.

However, even natives can sometimes become a nuisance, such as pachysandra, which freely spreads through stout rhizomes.

In general, fast-growing ground cover plants are prone to spreading out in the garden. This isn't a problem with some species, but do check with your county extension office to make sure your chosen ground cover isn’t a nuisance in your area.

If you have a bare patch of land, choose from these fast-growing ground cover plants to save the soil and pretty up the garden.

1. Deadnettle

Some of us may find this little plant volunteering in the lawn, but deadnettle – or Lamium – makes an excellent flowering ground cover.

The leaves are arrow-shaped and silver. In the spring the plant blooms with bright purple flowers. There are also variegated forms available.

Deadnettle grows 12 inches (30cm) tall with a similar spread. It's low-maintenance and has a tendency to spread around the garden – so be certain you want to include it. Pinch back plants for a fuller, bushier look.

You can grow deadnettle in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 8, which makes this a very hardy native plant.

2. Wild Ginger

Wild ginger (Asarum and Hexastylis species) won’t produce the flavorful, aromatic root we buy at the supermarket, but it is a lovely ground cover.

This plant likes moist soil in partial to full sun, making it ideal for those hard-to-plant low-light areas. It is deciduous, but beautiful, three-lobed leaves with softly rounded edges decorate the area during the growing season.

In spring it produces tiny red flowers that are mostly hidden under the large leaves.

You can grow wild ginger in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 8.

3. Bearberry

Bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi) is a North American native with small, rounded, stiff leaves, woody stems, and bright, red berries. The glossy green foliage is evergreen in moderate climates and turns reddish bronze in fall.

A trailing shrub, bearberry grows just 12 inches (30cm) tall and spreads via rhizomes.

It's a great choice for supporting wildlife, as the berries provide winter food for birds, and it is a host plant for certain butterfly species. Yet, it is deer-resistant.

Bearberry is drought tolerant and suitable for USDA hardiness zones 2 to 7.

4. Creeping Phlox

Creeping phlox (Phlox subulata) – or moss phlox – is a fast-growing perennial ground cover that forms a dense mat of foliage. The flowers form on upright stalks and come in hues of lavender, blue, or white, with a center of purple-red.

A very tolerant plant, creeping phlox may thrive in sheltered sun, partial sun, or full shade. This phlox will grow an inch (2.5cm) per month, with an ultimate spread of 16 inches (41cm), reaching 4 inches (10cm) in height.

Creeping wood phlox is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9.

5. Wild Strawberry

Producing not only the sweetly scalloped leaves but white flowers and fruit, wild strawberries are extremely easy to grow. The plants spread through runners and will easily colonize an area.

Popular options are the Virginia wild strawberry (Fragaria virginiana), beach or coast strawberry (Fragaria chiloensis), and the woodland strawberry (Fragaria vesca).

Wild strawberries are unfussy about lighting conditions, although full-shade sites may reduce flowering and fruiting. The fruits are tiny, but deliciously sweet and a favorite of birds and other wildlife.

This perennial is not invasive and is low maintenance provided plants are watered occasionally.

You can grow wild strawberries in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 10.

6. Virginia Creeper

A woody perennial, Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) – or woodbine – is a vine related to grapes – evident in its leaf shape. The leaves are palmate and separated into five leaflets which turn the most amazing reds and bronzes in fall.

Virginia creeper is tolerant of salt, pollution, deer, compact soil, and periods of drought. However, the best growth comes in any soil with average moisture.

The vine is fast growing, attaining 50 feet (15m) in no time. It produces blue, thickened fruits enjoyed by many wildlife and is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9.

7. Ajuga

Also known as bugleweed, ajuga (Ajuga reptans) is a perennial that looks gorgeous in its foliar state with bronze-chocolate-edged leaves.

There are several cultivars, some with larger leaves, and a variegated specimen.

Perfect for shady sites, ajuga grows 6 inches (15cm) tall and produces spring flowers in deep periwinkle blue.

Quite quickly it will form a mat of plants that will decorate a blank area of the garden. It's very hardy in USDA zones 4 to 10.

8. Wild Stonecrop

A perennial succulent, wild stonecrop (Sedum ternatum) is a creeping plant with rounded, fleshy leaves. In spring it produces little spires of star-like white flowers. Butterflies, bees, and other pollinators are attracted to the flowers.

The stems root easily when broken off and placed on fresh soil. It will spread and produce new plants over time. This stonecrop is deer and rabbit-resistant, drought-tolerant once established, and needs little maintenance. Pull off the spent flower stems to enhance the leaves' beauty.

Wild stonecrop is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9.

Juniper ground cover is a great way to fill in garden gaps around borders, patios, pathways and rockeries. Different juniper varieties offer a wide range of dense, mat-forming foliage in heights to suit any need. These plants come in steely blues, minty greens, cheerful golds and variegated options. In winter, juniper foliage takes on purple, burgundy and copper tones to add interest to quiet corners.

Highly regarded as a garden stalwart, juniper is drought tolerant and weather-resilient. Of the many ground cover plants you can grow, these coniferous plants are among the most dependable and adaptable, often working equally well on flat surfaces and on slopes. Here, we round up some of the varieties that will flourish as attractive ground cover and effective erosion controls.

Best Juniper Ground Cover For Every Garden Size

Juniper ground covers range from only a few inches to three feet tall (1m) with a variable spread. This means that however big or small your garden, there is a juniper variety here to suit you. Give some thought to ground cover spacing based on the needs of your particular juniper selection. When first planted, space them out to allow ample space for growth.

Surround with mulch to conserve moisture and reduce weeds until the juniper plants establish. If pruning becomes necessary, limit to tip-pruning to encourage fullness – don't cut back severely. Choose disease-resistant cultivars to avoid problems such as cedar apple rust and foliage or tip blight. 

Creeping Juniper Ground Cover

Common creeping cedar or creeping juniper ground cover (Juniperus horizontalis) grows 1-2ft tall and 4-8ft wide (0.3-0.6m by 1.2-2.4m) with green or bluish-green foliage and blue cones. It forms a dense carpet of growth (pictured above, 'Glacier') and works well on slopes. This juniper ground cover is also very drought tolerant.

Andorra Juniper 'Plumosa'

Andorra (J. horizontalis 'Plumosa') grows 2ft tall by 10ft wide (0.6m by 3m) with gray-green foliage in summer. This juniper's coloring shifts to golds and plum tones in winter, adding vibrant seasonal interest during the colder months. It works well in coastal plantings and drought-tolerant gardens.

Juniper 'Bar Harbor'

'Bar Harbor' (J. horizontalis 'Bar Harbor') is an excellent juniper as ground cover for garden rockeries and rocky borders. This vigorous variety grows around 8in tall and 6ft wide (20cm by 1.8m), and its feathery, green-gray summer foliage takes on charming purple hues in winter. 

Juniper 'Blue Chip'

'Blue Chip' (J. horizontalis 'Blue Chip') grows to around 1ft tall (0.3m), and has distinctive silvery blue foliage with a feathery shape. Its almost ethereal coloring (pictured above) makes it ideal for edging pathways and framing patio spaces with warm, terracotta tones or, conversely, white planting themes.

Blue Rug Juniper

Blue Rug (J. horizontalis 'Wiltonii') is a very low-growing juniper plant, reaching just 4in high (10cm) by 8-10ft wide (2.4-3m) with a trailing habit. It silver blue foliage takes on bronze tinges during the winter months. Since it is highly salt and wind tolerant, it works well exposed areas and grows best in full sun. 

Juniper 'Blue Prince'

Another creeping evergreen, 'Blue Prince' (J. horizontalis 'Blue Prince') works well on slopes. Its ground-draping foliage is capable of growing 6in tall by 5ft wide (15cm by 1.5m), and is noted for its fine blue needle color. These tones become even more intensely blue during the winter months.

Shore Juniper

Distinctively feathery, shore juniper (J. conferta) plants grow 12-18in high (30-46cm) with a 6-8ft spread (1.8-2.4m), making them perfect for seaside growing. Variety 'Blue Pacific' has blue foliage and is heat tolerant, while 'Emerald Sea' and 'Schlager' (pictured above) have green foliage.

Juniper 'Hughes'

Wide-spreading 'Hughes' (J. horizontalis 'Hughes') grows 1ft tall by 9ft wide (0.3m by 3m), with silver-blue foliage that takes on tinges of purple in winter. Its feathery habit makes this drought-tolerant juniper plant an excellent choice for rockery and gravel gardens.

Juniper 'Mother Lode'

'Mother Lode' ('Wiltonii' sport) is capable of growing 3in tall and 3ft wide (8cm by 0.9m). Its gold variegated foliage (pictured below) takes on orangish tones during winter. This bright juniper ground cover works well in contrast with earthy tones and accompanying flowering ground cover plants.

Juniper 'Prince of Wales'

'Prince of Wales' (J. horizontalis 'Prince of Wales') grows 6in tall (15cm), with bright green foliage which takes on purple tones through fall and winter. Excellent as an edging for pathways and patio gardens, and also in areas with chunkier rocks, this sun-loving juniper ground cover also works well in sandy soils.

Juniper 'Gold Strike'

For anyone looking to add a natural splash of gold to borders and pathways, this juniper variety is ideal. 'Gold Strike' (J. horizontalis 'Gold Strike') has light green foliage which gleams with cheerful yellow notes through summer and orange tones in the fall. It makes a lovely, low growing but mounding ground cover.

Juniper 'Youngstown'

Both cold and heat tolerant, 'Youngstown' (J. horizontalis 'Youngstown') has soft gray-green foliage which acquires purple tones in winter. Growing around 1ft tall and as much as 6ft wide (0.3m by 1.8m), it creates an impressively thick structure which adapts well to slopes as well as flat patios and pathways. 

Frequently Asked Questions

How Long Does It Take for Juniper Ground Cover to Establish?

Exactly how long it takes for juniper ground cover to thicken up will depend on several factors. These include planting conditions, how level the ground is, any neighbouring plants, and plant spacing. On the whole, junipers develop relatively slowly, so are only likely to grow 6-8in each year. Most of the time, they grow outwards rather than vertically. Your juniper should establish within a couple of years of planting.

Which Plants Are Best to Grow Near My Juniper Ground Cover?

Depending on whether you are growing juniper as ground cover around a pathway, border, patio, rock garden or slope, your choice of planting companions will vary. Excellent drought-tolerant ground cover companions include creeping thyme, agapanthus, creeping sedum and euphorbia. For a structural contrast, a hosta works well, while nepeta adds natural complementary tones to blue junipers.

Invasive English ivy causes a lot of problems in North America. It spreads rapidly, harms trees, and outcompetes native plants. If you have ivy in your garden, consider removing it. Using native vines or groundcover to replace ivy, you can transform your garden and make it friendlier to the ecosystem in your area.

The Problem of English Ivy

English ivy is an evergreen vine native to parts of Europe, northern Africa, and western Asia. It came to North America as an ornamental landscape plant. With a support on which to grow, ivy can reach heights of 90 feet (27 m) or more. It is an attractive plant with dark green, three-lobed leaves. It is easy to grow and grows quickly. It is one of the few garden plants that can grow even in deep shade.

These are the properties that made English ivy a desirable landscaping plant, but it also causes a lot of problems and is considered invasive in many areas. The main problem with English ivy is that it has escaped many gardens and has grown aggressively in native forests.

When ivy climbs trees, the weight can break branches. As it reaches the canopy of a tree, it shades the leaves and prevents the tree from accessing sunlight. When ivy climbs buildings, it can damage both siding and masonry.

Ivy also creeps along the ground, creating a dense groundcover that hosts rats and other pests. All parts of the English ivy plants are poisonous.

Non-Invasive Ivy Alternatives

English ivy has a lot of attractive properties. Many people put it in to tackle difficult shady spots in the garden, but there are better options. Knowing what to replace ivy with depends on your gardening goals and your region. These are some plants that can provide the same climbing vine effect or groundcover in shade or partial shade and that are native to many parts of the U.S.

Groundcovers

To mimic the tight, dense mats that ivy creates on the ground in a healthier way, try these native species:

• Creeping phlox. For groundcover with spring flowers, choose creeping phlox. It will provide a thick mat of violet flowers in spring and green foliage the rest of the year.
• Wild ginger. Different varieties of native ginger make a pretty groundcover. The leaves are heart-shaped and green.
• Golden ragwort. This groundcover is evergreen and spreads readily in thick mates of foliage. In spring, it produces tall shoots of yellow flowers that attract native pollinators.
• Green-and-gold. Evergreen in the warmer part of its native range, the groundcover green and gold produces yellow spring flowers.
• False lily of the valley. Lily of the valley is another attractive but problematic non-native species. Choose this native lookalike that produces similar leaves and white flower clusters. It will spread readily in shady, wooded areas.
• Christmas fern. If you like the texture of ferns, this Christmas fern provides a great groundcover for your shadiest areas and woodland gardens. It gets its name from the fact that it stays green through Christmas in many areas.
• Other ferns. Other ferns that will do fairly well in your shady areas and act like a groundcover include northern lady fern and northern maidenhair fern.

Vines

If you want to replace the vining effect of English ivy, you won’t find a native that is quite as robust or with the same glossy, deep evergreen leaves, but these alternatives are just as attractive in their own ways:

• Virginia creeper. This vine grows taller than English ivy but is less dense. Virginia creeper climbs trees but does not harm them. The foliage is deciduous and drops off in fall to allow the trees to access sunlight. It does grow aggressively, so be aware that it will spread.
• Trumpet honeysuckle. Native honeysuckles are vines. Beware of honeysuckle shrubs, which are invasive. The flowers feed pollinators and the berries feed other wildlife.
• Crossvine. Crossvine grows quite long and produces showy, trumpet-shaped flowers. This vine will attach to and climb walls without support, just like English ivy.

Groundcovers are a wonderful way to cover bare areas and create a carpet of greenery. However, they are prone to becoming colonized by weeds and grasses. Since the groundcover will grow into a mat of foliage, getting unwanted plants out of the area can pose a challenge. Wondering how to get rid of grass in groundcover? Short of hand pulling, you'll want to invest in the proper groundcover weed control that is safe for the wanted plants but will remove the weeds.

Grass In Groundcover

Finding grass growing in groundcover is a very common problem. Groundcovers that do not establish quickly or tend to have gaps in them will catch weed seeds, allowing these unwanted plants to flourish. You can purchase a groundcover weed killer that will target weeds and not harm the groundcover in some cases. To prevent the problem, it is best to install weed barrier fabric prior to planting. If it’s too late for that, manual pulling or the appropriate herbicide may be the only solution.

Preventing Weeds in Groundcover

Prevention is always the best option. Weed barrier fabrics are an excellent way to prevent weed seeds from growing. However, they don’t prevent stolons of creeping grasses that are tenacious and will push through the fabric. Perennial weeds must be removed prior to laying the fabric. Applying a pre-emergence herbicide before seeds get a chance to germinate will prevent many weed varieties. For grasses, apply a product containing sethoxydim, a grass killer.

Laying a thick layer of mulch will also help prevent weed emergence. This could be in the form of bark, newspaper, rubber mulch, rocks, or other organic or inorganic layers. There will still be some weed or grass emergence which can be managed with hand pulling in most instances. Provide good care for newly installed groundcovers so they will grow together rapidly, and thickly, leaving no spaces for pest plants.

How to Get Rid of Weeds in Groundcover

Annual weeds can be prevented in the above ways, but perennial weeds are the real problem. These will show up annually unless the entire root system is destroyed. Getting down deep to remove plants such as dandelions can be a trial amongst the thicket of groundcover. Direct, careful application with an appropriate herbicide is one way to get rid of perennials. Avoid using a broad spectrum herbicide but elect to purchase one that is safe for ornamental plants and has the pest weeds listed for control. Herbicides classed as Dinitroanilines will control many broadleaf weeds.

Fine mulches like peat moss or manure can impede the penetration of the herbicide into soil. Where possible, work herbicides into the soil.

How to Get Rid of Grass in Groundcover

Grasses that spread with stolons will creep into any garden bed. They will quickly establish if not dealt with promptly. One organic way to avoid this nuisance is by installing a barrier between sod and the bed. Dig into soil slightly deeper than where the stolons sit naturally. Most stolons are fairly near the surface. Use a purchased barrier or make your own. Alternatively, make a buffer zone at least 6 inches (15 cm) from the grass. Fill this with mulch to control annual weeds. If chemical control is necessary, use a fusilade herbicide. These will not damage herbaceous plants, but will kill grasses. As the groundcover establishes, weed out or chemically control grass before it can take over the area. Once the groundcover is full and mature, it will crowd out most grasses.

Groundcovers can be an excellent choice for suppressing weeds in garden areas. They can save time and energy spent pulling weeds, as well as reduce the need for chemical control. Find out more about low-growing, mat-forming groundcovers for your landscape.

Types Of Groundcovers to Prevent Weeds

Groundcovers can add a surprising pop of color or texture, differentiate between landscape spaces, provide erosion control, and just plain look good. The best groundcovers to prevent weeds are low-growing, dense, mat-forming evergreens, but there are deciduous choices that work well too.

There are groundcovers for sun, part sun, and shady areas that can provide ornamental beauty as well as outcompete weeds.

Best Groundcover Plants to Prevent Weeds

For best results, first remove all the weeds in the planting site. The areas can be solarized in summer for four to six weeks using clear plastic. For quicker planting, pull or hoe the weeds. Perennial weeds such as dandelions may need chemical control to kill all the roots. Spray about two weeks before planting. Read and follow all label instructions.

Then, incorporate compost to enrich the soil and improve its drainage. The best time to plant is in spring to give the plants time to become established before winter.

Dense evergreens are the preferred groundcover that chokes out weeds. Deciduous groundcovers can work too, if they form a carpet of foliage that prevents the sun from reaching the soil and germinating those pesky weeds. Here are a few of our favorites:

Sun – Height 1 to 6 inches (2.5-15 cm)

• Clustered bellflower (Campanula glomerata 'Superba') -- purple flowers in late spring, dense foliage mat to 5 inches (13 cm). Flower stalks to 12 inches (31 cm). Zones 3-8
• Creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis) -- evergreen, ‘Icee Blue,’ ‘Prince of Wales,’ ‘Wiltonii’ (‘Blue Rug’). Zones 3-9
• Creeping phlox (Phlox subulata) -- red, white, lavender flowers in spring, evergreen. Zones 3-9
• Creeping thyme (Thymus praecox) -- pink flowers in spring, evergreen. Zones 5-8
• Crystal River ® veronica (Veronica ‘Reavis’) -- blue flowers in spring, evergreen. Zones 3-7
• Goldmoss sedum (Sedum acre) -- yellow flowers in early summer, evergreen leaves. Zones 4-9
• Ice plant (Delosperma spp.) -- red, yellow, white, or fuchsia flowers spring to fall, succulent leaves. Zones 6-10
• Rock cress (Aubrieta ‘Red Cascade’) -- magenta to rosy-red flowers in spring, evergreen. Zones 4-9
• Woolly yarrow (Achillea tomentosa) -- yellow flowers in summer, gray foliage. Zones 3-7

Part Sun – Height 1 to 6 inches (2.5-15 cm)

• Ajuga (Ajuga reptans ‘Burgundy Glow’) -- blue flower spikes in late spring. Zones 3-10
• Heath aster (Aster ericoides ‘Snow Flurry’) -- white flowers in fall, native. Zones 3-9
• Scotch moss (Sagina subulata 'Aurea') -- white flowers in spring, chartreuse foliage. Zones 4-8
• Stonecrop (Sedum spurium ‘Dragon’s Blood’) -- rosy red flowers in summer, foliage turns red in fall. Zones 4-9
• Stonecrop (Sedum spurium 'John Creech') -- pink flowers in fall, foliage turns burgundy. Zones 3-9
• Kinnikinnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi) -- pink flowers in spring, red berries, evergreen, n ative. Zones 2-6

Shade – Height 1 to 8 inches (2.5-20 cm)

• Foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia) -- creamy white flowers, native. Zones 4-9
• Japanese spurge (Pachysandra terminalis) -- evergreen. Zones 5-9
• Twinflower (Linnaea borealis) -- pink flowers in pairs in summer, evergreen, native.
• Wild ginger (Asarum caudatum) -- evergreen leaves, native. Zones 7-10
• Wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens) -- needs acidic soil, evergreen leaves turn bronze in winter, red berries, native. Zones 3-8

Ornamental ground cover plants have many uses. Most are planted in landscapes which are otherwise inhospitable, such as in deep shade or to cover very steep hills or embankments. These low-growers help gardeners keep an aesthetically pleasing and tidy appearance, even where growing conditions are less than ideal. In learning more about various species of ground cover plants available, you may want to explore Phuopsis stylosa purpurea, also known as Caucasian crosswort. Though creeping crosswort plants can be quite beautiful, there are several key points to consider for their successful growth.

What is Crosswort Plant?

Crosswort plant is a fast-growing perennial ground cover. Reaching only 6 inches (15 cm.) in height at maturity, Phuopsis stylosa spreads to form a dense, tangled mass of plant matter. Thick, ornamental growth works to prevent light from reaching the soil, and ultimately, prevent the growth of weeds. Lush, green leaves spread the length of each stem and are arranged in a circular pattern. Commonly referred to as “skunk plant,” plants are known for their noticeable musky odor. Once in bloom, each stem will produce clusters of very small violet-purple blooms. Depending upon the region, the bloom period of this plant will usually last several weeks, spanning from late spring into mid-summer.

What Crosswort Requires

Established plantings of crosswort are highly adaptable to various soil types, but require a planting site that receives at least 6-8 hours of sunlight each day. Though the plant is able to withstand prolonged periods of drought, it’s important to carefully consider its requirements for growth before planting. Despite being hardy to USDA growing zones 5-8, crosswort grows best in regions with cool summer temperatures, rather than those which are hot and humid. In fact, plants commonly show signs of sun damage in the form of leaf burn, premature leaf drop, and overall stunted growth in regions with especially warm weather.

Propagating

Phuopsis stylosa seeds germinate readily and can be planted in either spring or fall. Where conditions are ideal, some growers have found success in sowing directly into the garden. Those who wish to start the seeds indoors, under grow lights, should do so at least 4-6 weeks before the arrival of the last frost. Once the seedlings have 2-3 sets of true leaves, the plants can be slowly hardened off and moved into their final location outdoors. Crosswort plants may also be propagated through soft rooted cuttings that have been taken in early summer.

Once planted into the garden, this species requires very little care. Since the plant is known to volunteer in flower beds, growers may need to deadhead frequently if they wish to prevent the plant’s spread. As it is resistant to most pests and diseases, crosswort seldom needs additional attention. If ornamental beds should happen to become overgrown, your plants can be trimmed or pruned to maintain the desired size and shape. As the season comes to a close in autumn, crosswort plants will begin to die back to the ground naturally, where they will remain dormant until the following spring.

When purchasing new plants, people often overlook fragrance and are more intent on the color or texture of a plant. But when you do come across a plant with a perfumed scent, the experience can be heady. Adding fragrant groundcover plants to a special nook in the garden or a walkway can add a punch of “wow” when passersby catch the aroma. 

Good-smelling groundcover is ideal for shady spots under tree canopies, among stepping stones, in a sensory garden, or even in a children’s play area. Incorporating perfumed plants into the garden will tickle your nose and delight your senses.

5 Fragrant Ground Cover Plants

Here are five different aromatic groundcover plants and how to use them in the garden:

1. Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile), USDA zones 4-9) is a delicate, perennial herb with tiny, daisy like flowers in summer. It has a calming fragrance, and its leaves can be dried and used in teas. (Restrict consumption to no more than one cup a day as it has low toxic characteristics.) It has a spreading habit that’s ideal as a groundcover, and its dainty appearance would be a welcome sight in a children’s garden or play area. Other uses include pollinator gardens, against rock walls, edging a garden, or lining a patio where its scent can be enjoyed.
2. Creeping thyme (Thymus praecox), USDA zones 5-8, is a low growing perennial herb that is often used as lawn replacement. Its woody stems root easily along the ground to form a dense, evergreen mat. It can tolerate light foot traffic, so it’s perfect as a groundcover between steppingstones, where its spicy scent is released with each step. Pretty purple-pink flowers cascade over rocks, down ledges, and line containers. The flowers attract bees and butterflies but it’s avoided by dinner-seeking bunnies and deer. 
3. Lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis), USDA zones 3-8, is a fragrant shade groundcover that is perfect under the low canopy of evergreen trees and shrubs. It produces scented, white, bell-shaped flowers in early spring. Favoring a woodland garden situation in part shade to full shade, the plant multiplies quickly. They complement other shade loving plants such as hosta, bleeding heart, and columbine, plus they’re resistant to deer and rabbits. Be cautious though: All parts of the plant are toxic if ingested in large amounts. 
4. Sweet violet (Viola odorata), USDA zones 4-9, grows into a low-growing clump of heart-shaped green leaves with very aromatic small blue-to-purple flowers. Both the leaves and flowers are edible. It takes one back to yesteryear when times were simpler, and fragrance was everything. Many species of violets have lost favor with the gardening public, except for hybrid violas and pansies, because of their ability to spread rapidly by seed. They can be contained in a pot or in a rock garden, but, inevitability, violets will escape beyond their bounds.
5. Sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum), USDA zones 4-8, is a fragrant groundcover that thrives in shade. It even survives near black walnut trees. In spring, whorls of green leaves are topped by a cluster of edible white flowers that look like jasmine. The leaves and the flowers are aromatic. Sweet woodruff can become aggressive in the right situation, but it can be mowed occasionally to quell its growth. Sweet woodruff works well as an evergreen groundcover, edging plant in a woodland garden, children’s garden, or edible garden.

Groundcovers in your bed or border offer a finished appearance, almost like a carpet growing underneath taller blooms. Choose a complementary color with flowers or foliage to add as a groundcover for sun and shade. A number of these coverings are available, no matter your conditions or climate. Plants thought of as groundcovers are normally only 12 inches (30 cm.) tall, with many being much shorter. 

Groundcover for Sun and Shade

This type of plant is used in a variety of other situations. Groundcover plants may trail or cascade over walls or rocks located in a garden or be used to draw attention to a hanging basket or other outside display container. These plants are also grown to alleviate erosion in sloping areas and to stop the spread of other plants that may be invasive.

Take a good look at the area where you wish to add a groundcover and determine if it is primarily in the sun, the shade, or some combination of both. Also, take a look at how tall your other flowers growing there will be in maturity. When you’re sure of your growing conditions, you can then select just what groundcover you prefer and be assured it will develop and spread properly in the area.

We’ll discuss a range of available ground coverings and explain their strengths and weaknesses when growing in your outdoor location in part sun and part shade here. You’ll find this is a common sun condition in many of your planting areas.

Perennial Groundcovers

The following are returning groundcovers used regularly in beds and borders that get part sun and part shade. 

• Blue Spruce 
• Creeping Red Sedum
• White Bloodroot
• Periwinkle Vinca Minor
• Bigroot Geranium (many varieties)

Groundcover for Shade

If you wish to finish off a shady spot with an appropriate, spreading groundcover you’ll find a good selection for your project, including:

• Bugle Weed
• Wild Ginger
• Siberian Bugloss
• Snow on the Mountain
• Heart-Leaf Bergenia 

These are by no means any type of complete list of groundcovers you might plant. Numerous specimens are available, so you can find one that returns easily each year, needs little maintenance and looks just like what you desire.

Planting Groundcovers for the First Time

Spread out small plants when originally planting or grow from seed. Many groundcover plants will spread together quickly and return in the same manner each year.

Research groundcover plants before purchasing and planting. This is the best way to determine their spreading and return capabilities. You may find that plants growing from rhizomes spread most quickly.

Part Sun Groundcovers

Many of the following also perform well in a full sun area. They may be used to fill in a dappled sun area or one that just gets a few hours of sunshine daily:

• Lily of the Valley (sweetly fragrant and a quick spreader}
• Barrenwort or Bishops Weed
• Blue Rug Juniper (prefers a little more sunlight daily, making it almost a full sun plant) 
• Moneywort (full to part sun)
• Moss Phlox

Do you have some spaces that need filling in? Spaces around planters, shady spots in the shadows, under a tree, spaces between stepping stones, or an oddly shaped barren spot can be challenging. Consider popping in some pretty flowering ground cover plants.

Benefits of Flowering Ground Covers

Using flowers for ground cover plants can change the entire feel of your landscape. While traditional ground covers are often overlooked and underappreciated, flowers that cover the ground can provide vibrant color and interest to areas that may otherwise look dull or be difficult to plant. Many varieties of flowering ground cover will grow and thrive in the shade under trees where other plants won't grow.

Flowering ground cover plants can also act as a low-maintenance barrier against weeds. They stabilize soil, fill in gaps between stepping stones, and provide a lush habitat for our pollinator friends.

Commonly used old-fashioned ground covers such as pachysandra and English ivy are beautiful, but why not think outside the box with an even prettier alternative that's just as hardy and tough?

Flowers that cover the ground provide all the same benefits in addition to adding color and pollinators to your growing spaces. Even when they aren't in their flowering season, evergreen varieties of ground-covering flowers can provide interest year-round.

Fabulous Flowering Ground Cover Plants

Enjoy this short list of 10 of our favorite flowering ground covers (plus one additional honorable mention). Happy planting.

1. Creeping Phlox

Creeping Phlox (Phlox subulata) - This pretty plant loves full sun and provides a thick mass of carpet-like foliage. It becomes completely completely covered in early spring with a profusion of blooms. Well-drained, sandy soil is a must for this ground cover flower. Grows best in USDA zones 3-9.

2. Bugleweed

Bugleweed (Ajuga reptans) - Bugleweed is an evergreen that can thrive in the shade of large trees. It showcases small spikes of pretty blue or pink flowers that stand above the spreading foliage in spring. Plus, its foliage is colorful and attractive all year long. Be aware that it does tend to become an aggressive spreader. Thrives in USDA zones 4-9.

3. Catmint

Catmint (Nepeta) - Catmint is a great choice if you're looking for season-long blooms and minty aromatic foliage. It grows in short clumps and is a perennial, so just plant it once. It blooms most of the summer, and is not at all liked by deer and rabbits. They are repelled by its fragrance. Best in USDA zones 3-8.

4. Coral Bells

Coral Bells (Heuchera) - Although this flowering ground cover plant is grown more often for its beautiful foliage, its dainty little flowers bloom for a long time during the summer months. The flowers may be small, but this evergreen to semi-evergreen perennial is available in a wide array of foliage colors, shapes, and sizes including green, yellow, purple, and some that even change throughout the season. It more than makes up for its lack of splashy flowers. Hardy in USDA zones 4-9.

5. Creeping Thyme

Creeping Thyme (Thymus serpyllum) Creeping thyme is one of our favorite sun-loving perennial groundcover flowers. An aromatic herb, it's the perfect little filler between stepping stones and patio pavers. The tiny magenta to purple flowers bloom in profusion early in the summer atop its low-growing, dense mat of green foliage. Go ahead and step on it, and enjoy the waft of fresh herbaceous fragrance. It is hardy in USDA zones 4-9.

6. Lilyturf

Lilyturf (Liriope muscari) - Lilyturf is a short clumping ornamental grass with unique, wide, dark green strappy leaves. It produces delightful purple flowers that almost resemble grape hyacinths in late summer. Lilyturf is not picky about sun or soil, and is perfect along paths and walkways, or planted en masse in landscape beds. One of the best ground flowering ground covers for super weed suppression, it can become invasive in certain areas like the southeast U.S. It thrives in USDA zones 6-10.

7. Barrenwort

Barrenwort (Epimedium) - Here's a ground covering with flowers that can thrive under the shadiest of conditions. With pretty heart-shaped flowers that float above the foliage, its ability to grow and thrive under the canopy of large shade trees makes it superior to other ground covers. With delicate flowers that have been called fairy wings, this is the perfect go-to for problematic shady spots. Best in USDA zones 5-8.

8. Carnations/Pinks

Carnations/Pinks (Dianthus) - Who doesn't love the spicy delicious scent of carnations? This vigorous, heat-tolerant, clump-forming plant packs a blooming punch with fragrant flowers available in an array of colors ranging from pinks to reds, whites, lavenders, and even bicolors. The grass-like foliage is bluish-gray and also fragrant when brushed. It only needs a bit of morning sun and some well-draining fertile soil. Best grown in USDA zones 5-9.

9. Ice Plant

Ice Plant (Delosperma) - Ice plant blooms are so prolific they cover their foliage completely from late spring through early summer. The flower colors are bright and tropical. Choose this perennial for rock gardens, slopes, or in landscaped areas that are extremely well-drained and dry. (Note: Delosperma is highly invasive in some parts of the US. Check with your local extension office before planting it). Hardy in USDA Zones 4-8.

10. Asian Star Jasmine

Asian Star Jasmine (Trachelospermum asiaticum) - Let this vigorous twining vine grow in front of a border or crawl over banks and slopes. An excellent flower for ground coverage, it bears small beautifully fragrant creamy yellow flowers from late spring to summer and thrives in full sun to partial shade. Star jasmine grows quickly and will also climb upwards if given strong support from a fence, trellis or arbor. Hardy in USDA zones 7-9.

Honorable Mention - Bunchberry

Bunchberry(Cornus canadensis) is a member of the Dogwood family is best grown in colder regions in a shady, woodland setting. Its deeply veined, rich green leaves are accented by showy white dogwood-type flowers in late spring. Bunchberry is a good choice to edge a shady garden, for naturalized areas or to plant beneath evergreen or deciduous shrubs and trees. It loves cool, damp, acidic places like woodland gardens or even a forest floor.

Vinca minor, also known as just vinca or periwinkle, is a fast growing, easy groundcover. It’s appealing to gardeners and homeowners needing to cover areas of the yard as an alternative to grass. This creeping plant can be invasive though, choking out native plants. Before using it, try some alternatives to vinca vine.

What is Vinca?

Vinca vine, or periwinkle, is a flowering groundcover. It came to the U.S. from Europe in the 18th century and quickly took off, becoming popular for its fast growth, pretty flowers, and hands-off maintenance. It even thrives in shady areas, which makes it a popular choice for areas where grass doesn’t grow well.

The problem with using periwinkle in your garden is that it can grow too fast and too easily. An invasive species, it outcompetes many native plants and wildflowers. Not only will you face trying to manage the vigorous growth of vinca in your own yard, but it can escape and take over natural areas. You’ll often see periwinkle in disturbed areas, along roads, and in forests.

What to Plant Instead of Vinca

Fortunately, there are plenty of good periwinkle alternatives that will give you attractive groundcover without the risks of an invasive plant. Here are some good vinca vine alternatives to consider for your yard, broken down by sunlight needs:

• Full shade - One of the big draws of periwinkle is that it will grow even in the most difficult, shady areas of your lawn. There are other options available though. Try carpet bugleweed, which has pretty, variegated foliage. In warmer USDA zones, including 8 through 11, use peacock ginger for pretty leaves and summer flowers.
• Partial shade - Native to most of the eastern U.S., creeping phlox is a great choice for partial shade. It produces stunning color with purple spring flowers. Partridgeberry also does well with some shade and can be grown in zones 4 through 9. It grows very low to the ground and produces white to pink flowers followed by red berries that last through winter.
• Full sun - In warmer climates, try star jasmine for sunny areas. This vine also grows well as a creeping groundcover. Creeping juniper will tolerate full sun and can grow in a range of climates. These are low growing conifers that will give you evergreen color year-round.

Ground cover plants for full sun are often more sustainable choices than traditional turf lawns. They can conserve moisture and reduce the need for chemicals. Plus, full sun ground covers grow well where other plants may struggle like on a sunny hillside, making them some of the best plants for erosion control in full sun. Ground covers can also fill large areas fast and many don't mind being walked on, which makes them excellent options to replace grass.

Selecting Ground Cover Plants for Full Sun

Ground covers perform a variety of functions. They fill in empty spaces which reduces weeds, cover soil to keep moisture in, pretty up blank spaces, and more. Ground cover plants for sunny locations can also help cool soil. Any full sun ground cover needs to be tolerant of periods of dryness and thrive in blistering summer heat.

Prior to installing plants, determine which are hardy in your zone. You should also consider the type of soil, pH, drainage, irrigation, and other site conditions. Next, do you want flower, fruit, or other attributes? Finally, how much maintenance do you want to do? Some creeping plants in full sun can get out of hand and will require trimming or even mowing to keep them in check.

Also, determine whether you need deer and rabbit resistant plants. Plan the bed carefully. You may want to consider weed barrier fabric to prevent weeds as individual plants grow together and drip irrigation.

Flowering Full Sun Ground Cover

If your objective is to have a hillside or other area bathed in color in spring or summer, you need to choose plants that bloom. Some will even produce brightly colored fruits after the petals have dropped, while others flower all season long. Flowering ground covers will also attract pollinating insects, ensuring a bountiful veggie garden.

Classic examples of flowering ground covers for sun are snow-in-summer, creeping phlox, and sedum. You might also try:

• Strawberries
• Sempervivum
• Ice plant
• Yarrow
• Plumbago
• Creeping Potentilla
• Blue Star Creeper
• Creeping Thyme
• Carpet Bugle

Foliage Full Sun Ground Cover

If your goal is to add some texture to the garden, plants with interesting leaves will prove useful. Plants may be evergreen or deciduous, low maintenance, or require shearing and pruning. As with any addition to the garden, decide how much work you want to put in and purchase accordingly.

If you want evergreen simplicity try:

• Creeping Rosemary
• Blue Star Juniper
• Mondo Grass
• Sweet Box
• Cotoneaster
• Holly Fern
• Lavender Cotton

There are plenty of deciduous selections that are perfect for sunny locations. For foliar interest during the growing season, choose:

• Lamb's Ears
• Pachysandra
• Beach Wormwood
• St. John's Wort
• Sweetgrass
• Sumac

Do you want to grow your own lucky 4-leaf clover as a houseplant? Although these grow rampantly outdoors, it is possible to grow clover in a container indoors provided that you give them the conditions that it likes. 

Growing Clover Indoors

It is important that you give your indoor clover the sunniest window that you have. This is necessary for best growth and flowering. If your window is not sunny enough, you will find that the stems will become weak and more stretched out, and the leaves will be smaller. 

Being attentive to watering is another very important task in order to have thriving potted clover plants indoors. Clover likes to be kept evenly moist. Be sure to use a well-draining potting mix. Water thoroughly until it runs from the drainage hole, and then discard the excess water. Don’t let the soil completely dry out. 

Use an all-purpose fertilizer throughout the growing season and follow the directions on the label for the best results. 

One thing to make note of is that clover sends out stolons or runners that take root and form more plants. If you see any runners that spill over the edge of the pot, these will eventually die if they can’t root. You can try and redirect these back into the pot to take root if your container has room. Or you can set a pot of soil next to the plant and lay the runners on top of the soil. These will eventually root and you can then cut the runner off the original plant. Now you have another potted clover you can keep or give away.

Lastly, you should give your clover a rest period. If your plant starts to look tired and weak, most likely by winter time, stop watering your plant. Just neglect it until all the leaves yellow and set it in a cool, dark location for a few weeks. Keep an eye on it because you will start seeing new growth at some point.

Once this happens, clean up all the dead foliage, return your indoor clover back to its sunny window, and resume watering and fertilizing. It will flush out with beautiful, new growth and start the cycle all over again!

Liriope is a tough grass that is often used as a border plant or lawn alternative. There are two main species used, both of which are easy to care for and have few pest or disease problems. Making a Liriope landscape border produces a tidy, low-growing edge that doesn't need mowing and remains green year after year.

Why Use Liriope as a Border?

If you want an easy-to-grow, low-maintenance border that stays short and has no major issues, look to Liriope grass. This tough, adaptable evergreen plant makes a lovely edging in formal gardens, outlines paths and pavers well, or can be used as a hillside erosion stabilizer. Using Liriope as a border offers an easy solution for many landscape problems.

Liriope is also known as lilyturf, border grass, and monkey grass. Of the two main varieties, one is clumping and the other creeping, although both spread through rhizomes. In USDA zones 5 to 10, a border of monkey grass is a no-fuss solution. A landscape border with this grass produces a low, neatly foliaged groundcover that sets off taller plants.

When you plant Liriope spicata, you will end up with a creeping groundcover that, in some situations, can become invasive. Liriope muscari is a clumping form that will eventually set out offsets and increase the plant's presence. It makes an excellent and easily controlled grass edging. Both forms tolerate sun to part shade, almost any soil provided it is well-draining, and even periods of drought.

Planting Liriope Grass Edging

As an alternative to rock, gravel, or even grass around beds and paths, use Liriope to set off and define different areas. Liriope spicata is best used as a ground cover but L. muscari makes a perfect edging. Plant each Lilyturf one foot (30.5 cm.) apart. Keep the plants moderately moist but never soggy.

Mulch around the plants to prevent competitive weeds and help cool soil and conserve moisture. In time, monkey grass will spread by rhizomes and produce smaller versions of itself. This helps a border to fill in, but if you want the area more controlled and sparse, simply dig out and detach the new plants. You can always plant them in a container or elsewhere.

Border Grass Care

A border of monkey grass is very self-sufficient once established. In fact, this border grass care is almost nonexistent, making it a perfect "set and forget" plant.

The plants often get rust and other fungal diseases of foliage, so use a soaker hose or another method to water under the leaves or water only in the morning when the sun can quickly dry them off. Water established grass regularly in hot weather.

Feed the plants in early spring with a slow-release formula.

There is no need to mow this grassy plant, but you can if you want to rejuvenate the plant; mow or shear in late winter or early spring.

Can creeping phlox be planted in containers? It certainly can. In fact, keeping creeping phlox (Phlox subulata) in a container is a great way to rein in its vigorous spreading tendencies. This fast-growing plant will soon fill a container or hanging basket with purple, pink, or white flowers cascading over the rim.

Potted creeping phlox is beautiful and, once planted, requires minimal care. It may also be known as moss pink, moss phlox, or mountain phlox. Hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees love the nectar-rich blooms. Read on to learn how to grow creeping phlox in a container.

Growing Creeping Phlox in Pots

Start creeping phlox seeds indoors about six weeks before the last frost in your area. If you prefer, you can start with small plants from a local greenhouse or nursery.

Transplant into a container filled with good quality commercial potting mix after you’re sure any danger of frost has passed. Be sure the container has at least one drainage hole in the bottom. Allow at least 6 inches (15 cm.) between each plant so the creeping phlox has room to sprawl.

Add a small amount of all-purpose fertilizer if the potting mix doesn’t have fertilizer pre-added.

Caring for Container Grown Phlox

Water potted creeping phlox well immediately after planting. Thereafter, water regularly but allow the soil to dry slightly between each watering. In a container, creeping phlox may rot in soggy soil.

Feed container grown phlox every other week using a general purpose, water-soluble fertilizer mixed to half strength.

Cut the plant back by one-third to one-half after blooming to create a neater plant and encourage a second flush of blooms. Cut long runners back to about half their length to create a bushier, denser growth.

Creeping phlox tends to be pest resistant, although it can sometimes be bothered by spider mites. The tiny pests are easy to control with insecticidal soap spray.

Walkable groundcovers serve many purposes in the landscape, but it’s important to choose carefully. Walking on groundcovers may feel like stepping on a soft carpet of dense leaves, but the plants must have the ability to bounce back relatively quick.

Groundcovers you can walk on are versatile plants that may also crowd out weeds, conserve moisture, prevent soil erosion, and provide habitat for beneficial pollinators. Here are a few examples of attractive and durable groundcovers for foot traffic.

Choosing Groundcover That’s Walkable

Here are some good groundcovers you can walk on:

Thyme (Thymus sp.) – Includes several walkable groundcovers such as woolly thyme, red creeping thyme, and mother-of-thyme. Thyme thrives in full sunlight and nearly any well-drained soil. USDA plant hardiness zones 5 to 9.

Miniature speedwell (Veronica oltensis) – Veronica is a sun-loving plant with deep green leaves and tiny blue flowers. Zones 4 to 9.

Creeping raspberry (Rubus pentalobus) – Also known as crinkle leaf creeper, this plant displays thick green leaves that turn bright red in autumn. A durable groundcover for foot traffic, creeping raspberry produces white summertime flowers, often followed by small, red fruit. Zones 6 to 11.

Silver carpet (Dymondia margaretae) – Silver carpet is a lovely groundcover with tiny, rounded leaves. It is best for smaller spaces. Zones 9 to 11.

Corsican sandwort (Arenaria balearica) – Sandwort produces tiny white flowers in spring. This plant is best for small spaces in cool shade. Zones 4 to 11.

Rupturewort (Herniaria glabra) – Herniaria is a well behaved but rugged groundcover that gradually creates a carpet of tiny green leaves that turn bronzy red in fall and winter. Zones 5 to 9.

Blue star creeper (Isotoma fluviatilis) – This a fast-growing groundcover for foot traffic that produces blue, star-shaped blooms in spring and early summer. Blue star creeper should be planted where its rambunctious nature won’t be a problem. Zones 5 to 9.

Creeping jenny (Lysimachia nummularia) – Creeping jenny is also known as moneywort due to the golden, coin shaped leaves. Buttery yellow flowers that appear in late spring. Zones 3 to 8.

Creeping wire vine (Muehlenbeckia axillaris) – Also known as wandering wire vine, this plant spreads quickly, producing tiny, rounded leaves that turn bronze in fall. Zones 7 to 9.

Woolly yarrow (Achillea tomentosa) – This is a mat-forming perennial with grayish green leaves. Woolly yarrow thrives in hot, dry, sunny locations. Zones 2 to 9.

Ajuga (Ajuga reptans) – Ajuga spreads slowly but surely, producing groundcover that’s walkable with colorful foliage and spikes of white or blue flowers. Zones 4 to 10.

Red spike ice plant (Cephalophyllum ‘Red Spike’) – This is a succulent plant that produces bright red flowers in early spring. Zones 9b to 11.

Creeping golden buttons (Cotula ‘Tiffindell Gold’) – This plant is a drought resistant, sun loving groundcover for foot traffic with emerald green foliage and bright yellow, button-shaped flowers that show up in midsummer. Zones 5 to 10.

For many homeowners, the process of planning and planting flower beds can feel intimidating. Choosing which flowers to plant can be especially difficult when faced with issues such as shade, heavy or sandy soils, and steep slopes. However, some highly adaptable plants are able to thrive even in the most adverse conditions. Liriope, for example, is both easy to care for and suitable to a wide range of growth habitats.

Also known as lilyturf and sometimes monkey grass, liriope is a visually appealing and reliable ornamental plant for home landscapes, flower borders, and mass plantings. With a grass-like appearance, lilyturf plants produce a profusion of short white to lavender flower spikes. Once the blooming has completed, the spent flowers are removed and the vibrant evergreen foliage continues to grow throughout fall.

Lilyturf Winter Care

When it comes to lilyturf, cold tolerance is an important aspect. Though evergreen, liriope in winter will naturally enter into a stage of dormancy in which growth of the plant foliage ceases.

For the best results, homeowners will need to begin the process of winterizing liriope plants.

This should begin late in the winter growing season, before the new growth of the plant has resumed in the spring. To maintain lilyturf plants, growers can simply remove the plant’s foliage to the ground. When doing so, make certain not to damage the crown of the plant, as this may disturb the growth of foliage in the spring. As always, be sure to wear garden gloves and long sleeves when performing plant maintenance to avoid allergic reactions or skin irritation.

Once the plants have been trimmed back, be sure to clean up and remove the dead foliage from the garden to help prevent disease among the planting. While it is possible to prune the plants later in the growing season, it may negatively impact the plants or cause irregular or unattractive growth patterns.

Late winter and early spring are also good times to dig and divide lilyturf plants. To do so, simply dig the plant and divide using a sharp pair of garden shears or a shovel. Plant the divided clumps in the desired location by digging a hole at least twice as wide and deep as the plant’s root ball.

Water the plants well until new growth has resumed in the spring and liriope plants have become established.

With proper care, these plants offer growers reliable color and texture in ornamental plantings throughout the entire growing season.

Lithodora is a beautiful, blue-flowered plant that is half hardy. It is native to parts of France and southwestern Europe and likes a cooler climate. There are several varieties of this spectacular plant, all of which tend to spread and make a lovely groundcover.

Is Lithodora frost hardy? Keep reading to find out.

Is Lithodora Frost Hardy?

If you want a no-fuss, easy-to-grow, sprawling, blooming beauty, try growing Lithodora. It grows natively in a Mediterranean climate and needs plenty of water to produce an abundance of flowers. It blooms in spring, but in some climates, a second bloom in summer can be expected. Northern gardeners may have to provide Lithodora with winter protection, due to its half-hardy nature.

Cold tolerance for these plants runs in the USDA hardiness zones 6 to 9. However, some gardeners have learned ways of winterizing Lithodora plants into zone 5. Severe, sustained freezing can damage the stems and possibly the roots, where drainage isn't optimal. While this plant prefers moderate temperatures and moist soil, it does not do well in southern heat and humidity. It also cannot thrive in regions with long, extremely cold temperatures.

Moderate conditions are best for this particular plant. If you are concerned about the plant's longevity in cold sites, provide some winter protection with freeze shield cloth or mulch. A potted situation offers the easiest Lithodora winter protection.

How to Overwinter Lithodora

Since Lithodora cold tolerance is spotty, northern gardeners should grow the plant in containers and bring it indoors for winter or provide a microclimate outside where the plant has some protection.

Select a location with some screening from drying winds and cold northern weather. A south-facing slope or tucked into a rockery away from wind would be ideal. When winterizing Lithodora plants, mulch around outdoor plants to protect roots from freezing, while also providing a barrier to many weeds.

Lithodora Winter Damage and Care

If stems are black as spring approaches, they likely were damaged in a cold snap. Trim off dead stems to encourage new growth and improve the plant's appearance. Alternatively, you can wait until the bloom is over and shear the entire plant back to promote compact growth.

Fertilize in early spring with a time-release formula. Water in well after applying. Pull mulch away from the plant in spring to allow new stems and growth to emerge.

Harden off plants, that were overwintered indoors, before installing them in the ground or leaving them permanently outdoors for the warm season.

Claytonia virginica, or Claytonia spring beauty, is a perennial wildflower native to much of the Midwest. It was named for John Clayton, an 18th century American botanist. These pretty flowers are found in woodlands but can also be grown in the garden in natural areas or clustered in beds.

About Claytonia Spring Beauty

Spring beauty is a perennial spring flower native to the Midwest. It grows naturally in the woodlands of Ohio, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, Indiana, and Missouri. They spread by tubers that are actually edible and were eaten by early pioneers, but growing Claytonia tubers for food is not very efficient—they are small and time-consuming to collect.

Claytonia flowering typically begins in April, but this depends on the location and weather. It grows about 3 to 6 inches (8-15 cm.) tall and produces small, star-shaped blooms that are white to pink with pink veins.

Spring beauty is a pretty, delicate wildflower that brightens up spring gardens. The flowers open up in sunny weather and stay closed on cloudy days. If you live in spring beauty’s range, look for it as a sign that spring has arrived, but also consider using it as a cultivated garden element.

How to Care for Spring Beauty Flowers

Claytonia spring beauty prefers rich, moist soil. To grow these flowers in your garden or naturalized area, plant the tubers, or corms, in the fall. Space them about 3 inches (8 cm.) apart and deep.

Spring beauty prefers dappled sunlight and partial shade, but it will tolerate full sun. A forested area is best for growing, but as long as you water them adequately, these plants will grow in a sunny bed.

You can also use Claytonia as an integrated part of a lawn, like crocuses and other early spring bulbs. In a shady area where grass is difficult to grow, these flowers make a nice component of groundcover. Don’t rely on it solely to cover an area, though, as the foliage will die back in summer.

Expect your spring beauty to come back every year and to spread. In optimal conditions, it can take over areas of the ground, so take care when selecting where and how you plant these flowers.

If you are new to gardening but want to dip a toe in the waters, try growing succulents. They are utterly charming, come in a variety of sizes and colors, and have a carefree nature. In the landscape, succulent plants that spread create a carpet of texture combined with low maintenance ease. There are even hardy varieties available for northern gardeners.

Do Succulents Make Good Groundcover?

Trying to develop a no fuss area of the garden with weed resistant properties and a visual appeal? Need some plants that can tolerate neglect, thrive in drought, and cover an unsightly area? Try growing creeping succulent plants. Groundcover succulents might just be the answer you’re searching for.

Using succulents as groundcover offers the gardener many benefits and opportunities. Not only are they forgiving, they are also adaptable and have a unique beauty not found in many other plant families. There are many species of succulent plants that spread. If you want ground huggers or something mid-calf, there is a succulent for that. Do you want flowers or foliar color? There are groundcover succulents for almost any need and space. Sun or shade? Moist or dry? No problem, there is a variety suited for each condition.

Selecting Creeping Succulent Plants

The most important part of selecting succulents for the outdoors is considering the growing conditions. Northern gardeners will want hardy species while southern landscapers may be more concerned with drought-tolerant plants.

Make sure wherever you place your succulents that the soil drains freely, or your plants could develop fungal or rot issues. The soil doesn't have to be rich; in fact, most succulents prefer lean soil. Consider any microclimates in your garden and place slightly tender specimens in sheltered locations. Even heat-loving succulents need some shelter when temperatures soar above 80 F. (27 C.). Make sure you have some way of protecting them in extreme heat.

Types of Succulents as Groundcover

Since there are so many varieties from which to choose, you will need to narrow down selections based on your growing zone, sun exposure, average rainfall, and ability to shelter tender species. However, there are some very versatile plants such as:

• Creeping sedum – Creeping sedum has many species from which to choose as well as heights and colors.
• Ice plant – Ice plant is beautiful with daisy-like flowers combined with chubby leaves.
• Echeveria – Once it spreads, echeveria will give you a carpet of rose-like plants.
• Hens and chicks – A classic that never goes out of style is the hens and chicks.
• Ghost plant – Rosettes of fuzzy, white leaves. Ghost plants are very impactful in groups.
• Beard of Jupiter – Similar to hens and chicks, beard of Jupiter (or Jovibarba) rapidly increases in size with intense colors.

Tips on Planting Succulent Groundcover

Check your drainage before installing any succulents. You can do this by digging a trench at least 8 inches (20 cm.) deep and filling it with water. Check back in 30 minutes. If it hasn't drained, your soil is heavy and not ideal for succulents.

You can amend the soil by adding sand or gravel to the top few inches of soil. Succulents do not have deep root systems and will be satisfied with those few inches of loosely draining soil in most cases.

Do not use organic mulch around the plants. It can increase fungal or pest issues and conserves too much moisture. Instead, use inorganic mulches like pea gravel or stones. Water lightly as the plant establishes but, in a month, only water when the soil feels dry several inches deep.

Lithodora is a beautiful and easy-to-grow perennial plant. This low-growing flower is ideal for use in rock gardens, near pathways, and around the edges of flower borders. Producing a profusion of blue blooms in late spring to early summer, lithodora requires very little maintenance to thrive. Beyond consistent schedules of irrigation and fertilization, learning to properly trim and prune lithodora plants will help to ensure healthy plants for many seasons to come.

When to Prune Lithodora

When discussing when to prune lithodora plants, there are quite a few considerations. Pruning lithodora plants can happen at different times throughout the season. While trimming and rejuvenation are most likely to occur in the early season, the removal of overgrown plant matter in late winter will also be important in maintaining quality plants.

Since the plant is an evergreen, lithodora trimming is common in the early spring, just as winter has ended. Extended periods of cold or exposure to extreme winter weather can damage leaves and plant stems. Damaged leaves will be black and may impede new plant growth. Removing these leaves will be imperative in helping to prevent disease, and in improving the overall appearance of the planting.

Cutting back lithodora may need to be done after the flowering period as well. Cutting back lithodora after flowering can help growers to maintain plants and to ensure they remain the desired size. Tall or leggy growth can be removed at this time in order to create a more uniform appearance within the flower border.

How to Prune Lithodora

Learning how to prune lithodora plants is relatively simple. Sharp garden shears are the best tool to make clean cuts on the plant. This will be especially important in instances when the removal of a large portion of the plant will be needed.

When pruning lithodora plants, always make certain not to remove more than one-third of the plant at any given time. Doing so can severely damage the plant, and possibly cause it to die back completely.

When pruning lithodora plants, always make sure that the shears have been properly cleaned to reduce the spread of any plant diseases present in the garden. Carefully snip any damaged, diseased, or dead foliage from the plant. Make certain to dispose of the plant matter to maintain proper garden sanitation.

Plants in the Rubus genus are notoriously tough and persistent. Crinkle-leaf creeper, also commonly known as creeping raspberry, is an excellent example of that durability and versatility. What is crinkle-leaf creeper? It is a plant in the rose family, but it doesn't produce noticeable flowers or cultivated fruit. It is perfect for difficult sites and produces a mat of attractive foliage with unmatchable resistance to many pests and diseases.

Crinkle-leaf Creeper Info

The family Rosaceae includes many of our favorite fruits as well as roses. Creeping raspberry is one of the family but it has a growth habit more closely aligned with wild strawberries. The plant merrily rambles over rocks, hills, depressions, and wide spaces but is easygoing and can be controlled mechanically.

Rubus calycinoides (syn. Rubus hayata-koidzumii, Rubus pentalobus, Rubus rolfei) is native to Taiwan and provides an excellent low maintenance groundcover in the landscape. The plant performs well in either hot, dry sites or areas where moisture fluctuates. It can help stabilize soil in erosion prone areas, choke out perennial weeds and, yet, still allows naturalized bulbs to peek their heads up through the ornamental foliage.

The plant's scrambling nature does not allow it to self-adhere to plants or other vertical structures, so it is confined tidily to the ground. Creeping raspberry is a green foliaged plant but there is also a golden leaved cultivar.

Crinkle-leaf creeper grows just 1 to 3 inches (2.5-8 cm.) in height, but it can spread and spread. The deep green evergreen leaves are crinkly and scalloped. In fall and winter they bear rusty pink edges. The flowers are tiny and white, barely noticeable. However, they are followed by golden fruits that resemble chubby raspberries.

How to Grow Crinkle-Leaf Creeper

Try growing crinkle-leaf creeper in areas with deer; the plants won't be bothered. In fact, creeping raspberry is an extremely low maintenance plant once established and can even thrive in drought conditions.

Creeping raspberry is suitable for gardens in USDA zones 7 to 9, although it can thrive in protected sites to zone 6. The plant prefers full sun to light shade in any soil as long as it is well draining.

The groundcover looks especially appealing in woodland or natural gardens where it can tumble about, adding color and texture to many areas. If the plant grows out of bounds or gets too tall, use a string trimmer or pruners to remove higher growth.

There are few diseases or pests that will bother this plant. It is an easy, elegant addition to the garden.

Liriope, or lilyturf, is a hardy perennial plant. This extremely popular evergreen is perfect for use as a low maintenance groundcover or for use as a border plant along sidewalks and pavers. It can also be used as an alternative to grass in lawns. Tolerant to both heat and humidity, lilyturf only requires minimal maintenance to continue to thrive. So what about liriope plant division? Does this plant need to be divided and, if so, how and when?

Does Liriope Need to Be Divided?

Beyond planting, liriope requires little care from homeowners. Resistant to most diseases, these plants grow larger and may spread from one season to the next. Consistent irrigation and fertilization will further assist in the establishment of healthy plantings. Since liriope plantings can become quite large, it may lead its growers to ask, “Does liriope need to be divided?”

Opinions abound as to whether or not liriope needs division. Like many perennial ornamental plants, mounding clumps of liriope will continue to grow in each subsequent season. Unlike other plants, however, there has been little evidence to suggest that the growth of liriope inhibits the plants’ ability to produce flowers. For this reason, most recommend that liriope plant division is the choice of the gardener.

Liriope plants will continue to grow well for many years, despite not being frequently divided.

How to Divide a Liriope

Although dividing liriope is not a mandatory part of its care routine, there are reasons why a grower may want to do so. Splitting liriope is an extremely easy and cost-effective way to increase the amount of plants in the garden, or to begin the process of establishing new flower beds.

Dividing liriope plants is fairly straightforward. When splitting liriope, growers will first need to dig up the plant and remove the root ball from the garden. Once the plant has been removed, carefully cut through the root ball using a sharp, serrated knife or shovel for larger clumps. This process can then be repeated until the plant has been divided into the desired number.

Ideally, the process of dividing liriope should be done in early spring before new growth has resumed. Due to the hardy nature of this plant, however, it is possible to successfully divide this plant later in the season.

After splitting liriope plants, find a location for the new lilyturf transplants. Though liriope will tolerate a wide variety of growing conditions, it will be important to select a planting site that receives ample sunlight and one that is well draining. Water the newly planted liriope weekly until the plants have become established.

Groundcover plants are wonderful ways to decorate a blank part of the garden, quell weeds, and add some color and life.

Houttuynia cordata, or chameleon plant, is one you may want to avoid, however. It is a tenacious and rapid spreader that often gets out of control. And if you change your mind, killing chameleon plants is almost impossible. At the very least, it takes dogged determination. Learn how to stop chameleon plants.

About Chameleon Plants

The chameleon plant is very pretty with its lavender-tinged, heart-shaped leaves and easy-going nature. But it is this nature that becomes the problem.

Chameleon plants grow in USDA zones 5 to 11, in moist to dry soils, full sun to partial shade. Once they get going, there is very little that can stop the plants. Controlling chameleon plants is one of those challenges that will test your determination. Fortunately, the keys on how to get rid of Houttuynia are below.

The chameleon plant is a very useful groundcover or trailing plant. Because it doesn't mind tough areas and needs little care, it is a perfect plant in those respects. It's only when you want to remove or control it that the plant's true nature comes out.

Houttuynia spreads through rhizomes, which are very fragile and break apart easily. Any small part of the rhizome or stem left behind in the soil will resprout. This makes chameleon plant eradication extremely challenging. The fleshy rhizomes also range quite deep and wide, making it even harder to dig out every section.

And because foliar sprays result in the death of leaves and stems but don't always kill roots, this scrappy plant will just come back again, season after season.

Controlling Chameleon Plants Naturally

If you are a glutton for punishment, you can remove some of the plants without chemicals. The process will take several seasons but does not require chemicals.

Start at the outer edges of the patch, digging about 2 feet (0.5 m.) outside of the visible foliage and stems. Remove rhizomes as you find them and bag them.

Dig down at least 12 inches (30.5 cm.). It is useful to have a large tarp handy to place shovels full of soil and sift through for pieces of rhizome, leaves, or stems. Take sifted soil and store it in another part of the garden. Once you have gone through the entire bed, you can return the "cleaned" soil.

Keep an eye on the area and remove any plants that sprout. You may have to do the entire process again for the next season or two.

How to Get Rid of Houttuynia for Good

Total chameleon plant eradication is possible but it takes several years. Unfortunately, back-breaking labor is the safest way to eradicate chameleon plants.

For information on non-toxic products that may help control chameleon plants, consult with a professional at your local university extension service.

Some of my favorite low maintenance plants are sedums. I like to tuck them in amongst a rockery, along paths, in containers and even have a few as houseplants. Once established, these are the type of plant you don't have to worry about when you go on extended holiday.

They are succulents and not only useful as beautiful carefree specimens, but the history of sedums includes use as food and medicine. Sedums can be found wild in most parts of the world. They are especially adapted to poor soils and can be very drought tolerant.

They may be deciduous or evergreen, depending upon type. Additional characteristics vary by plant, with some low growing ground covers, others trailing, hanging specimens and still other varieties are taller vertical spectacles. The most common in the group have leaves that are plump and waxy with starry flower clusters that rise above the foliage - such as Autumn Joy sedum.

Sedum Plant History

The Sedum genus name comes from the Latin 'sedo,' meaning "to sit." They are found in Europe, Asia, North Africa, Mexico and a few are even native to North America. Recognized species go by very colorful names such as Burro's Tail, Gold Chain, Bird's Bread, and Creeping Tom. The versatile plants are also in a bit of a tug-of-war surrounding their genus name. Some in the family are now classed as members of Hylotelephium, while others retain their Sedum status. Such changes continue to occur in the botanical world as scientists unravel the genes of plants and reposition them to reflect more accurate family groups. As garden and greenhouse specimens, sedums have become popular since the early 1900s but were used by collectors as early as the 1800s.

History of Sedums as Food and Medicine

Anything you ingest should be carefully researched. This goes for the edible and medicinal varieties of sedum stonecrop plants. There are over 400 species in the family, some of which could cause illness if ingested. The juice in the succulent leaves and stems can be used topically to quell burn symptoms and on small scrapes and scratches.

One variety, Sedum sarmentosum, was reportedly used in Asia to treat inflammatory conditions. Several species of Sedum are undergoing trials as treatments for pain and swelling, with promising early results. As a food, sedums are used in salads and soups. S. sarmentosum and S. reflexum are the two most notable varieties that have a history of food use.

Fun Types of Sedum Stonecrop Plants

There are many unique forms of sedum plants. Here is a sampling of fun types to grow in your garden:

Groundcovers

• Two-Row sedum (S. spurium) - An evergreen, mat forming species with numerous colorful cultivars
• Broadleaf stonecrop (S. spathulifolium) - Silver to lime green leaves, branching, low, spreading plant.
• Spanish stonecrop (S. hispanicum) - Close set, finely textured leaves that blend seamlessly into each other with blue-gray color.

Upright

• Ice Plant stonecrop (Hylotelephium spectabile) - A vertical classic with a huge umbel of tiny starry flowers.
• Coppertone sedum (S. nussbaumerianum) - Bronze foliage and orange-gold flowers.
• Orpine (S. telephium syn. Hylotelephium telephium) - Bluish purple leaves and deeply hued stems.

Trailing

• Burro's Tail (S. morganianum) - Classic chubby, bluish green leaves reminiscent of a burro's tail
• Carpet sedum (S. lineare) - Tiny buttercup yellow foliage with dense growth and cascading habit.

Everyone associates clovers and shamrocks with being Irish and St. Patrick's Day, but what's the real history behind this legume? For homeowners, it can be an annoying weed, while for serious gardeners, clover is an important lawn alternative, cover crop and attracts bees. Clover, throughout history, has been recognized for various reasons, and a number of myths and stories have grown up around it.

History of Clover in Ireland

The association with Ireland is valid, as clover has held an important place in that country's history and culture. Legends say that the Druids believed in the symbolic power of a clover leaf, as the number three was considered mystical. Later, when St. Patrick came to the island, he used the three leaves of the clover to explain the Holy Trinity. Much later, wearing green, and especially clovers, was considered risky and a sign of rebellion against British rule. In the Irish language, seamróg, or shamrock, means simply "summer plant." It is thought to refer to white clover, Trifolium repens. While it typically produces three-lobed leaves, once in a while white clover will grow four on one stem. The rarity of this led to one of the most enduring clover myths, that a four-leaf clover, or shamrock, is good luck.

Other Clover Myths, Legends, and Sayings

The main reason that clover is famous today as a legendary plant is the association with Ireland and especially St. Patrick. But there are many other stories and sayings that have cropped up around clover:

• Some traditions say that the three leaves of the clover represent faith, hope, and love. The fourth, of course, is for luck.
• In the Holy Trinity, the clover represents the Father, the Son, and the Holy Spirit, and on four-leaf clovers the fourth is God's Grace.
• There is a legend that Eve carried a clover out of the Garden of Eden as a reminder of the paradise she lost.
• One way to tell a fake four-leaf clover from a genuine one is that real lucky shamrocks have one leaf smaller than the others.
• Naturalists, historians, and others have debated the true identity of the shamrock for hundreds of years, some believing it is wood sorrel or other types of clover. But most agree it is white clover.
• "To be in clover," means to have a carefree life, to be comfortable and prosperous.

Creeping Jenny is a versatile ornamental plant that provides pretty foliage that “creeps” along and spreads to fill in spaces. It can be aggressive and invasive, though, so growing creeping Jenny in a pot is a great way to enjoy this perennial without letting it take over the whole garden or flower bed.

About Creeping Jenny Plants

This is a trailing, or creeping, herbaceous perennial that produces waxy, small round leaves on thin stems. It is hardy in zones 3 through 9 and includes several cultivars of Lysimachia nummularia. Native to Europe, some of the varieties are more aggressive than others and can be considered invasive. In addition to the pretty leaves, creeping Jenny produces small, cupped yellow flowers beginning in early summer and continuing intermittently through the fall. The green variety is more invasive, but the color of the flowers looks nice contrasted with the green leaves. The golden variety is not as aggressive, but the flowers are less conspicuous. Potted creeping Jenny is a great alternative to putting these plants in the ground, where they can quickly get out of control.

Container Grown Creeping Jenny

Each creeping Jenny plant will grow like a mat, only rising to 6 to 12 inches (15-31 cm.) in height. Creeping Jenny in a bed looks great as a groundcover for this reason, but in a container, it can look a little flat. Combine it in a pot with taller-growing plants for contrast. Another great use for creeping Jenny in a container is to create a vine-like effect in a hanging pot. Creeping Jenny grows readily and quickly, so plant them 12 to 18 inches (31-46 cm.) apart. Provide a location that is sunny or only has partial shade. The more shade it gets, the greener the leaves will be. These plants like moist soil too, so water regularly and ensure good drainage in the container. Any basic potting soil is adequate. With its vigorous growth and spreading, don’t be afraid to trim creeping Jenny back as needed. Be sure to take care when cleaning out pots at the end of the season as dumping this plant in the yard or in a bed can lead to invasive growth next year. You can also take the container indoors, as creeping Jenny grows well as a houseplant. Just be sure to give it a cooler spot in the winter.

Also known as green manure, cover crops have been used in farming and gardening since ancient times. From the biggest farms to backyard vegetable gardens, cover crops can be used to enrich the soil, prevent erosion, improve water penetration, and for many other reasons. Here's a little history behind this smart growing practice.

What is a Cover Crop?

The term refers to anything that is grown on a farm or in a garden that is not a cash crop. In other words, it is not grown to sell or make a profit or to be used by the gardener. It serves a secondary purpose. Cover crops are usually grown in the winter when the fields are done producing and are then worked into the soil in the spring.

History of Cover Crops

Agriculture is an ancient practice, first beginning more than 10,000 years ago. And it probably didn't take long for early farmers to realize the benefits of cover crops. There are references to the practice from ancient China and India. In western writing, we see that the ancient Romans were using cover crops, but it was likely a practice that began earlier than that. In the U.S., cover crops were used by some of our founding fathers, including George Washington.

The monoculture on tobacco farms in the South depleted soil of nutrients, and by the late 1700s, the use of cover crops grew in popularity and really became essential. Cover crop use through time has been important in agriculture for a number of reasons. This old gardening and farming practice has a lot of benefits for the farm:

• Cover crops slow down or prevent the erosion of soil.
• They smother out invasive weeds.
• With the right cover crops chosen, the soil is enriched with nitrogen.
• Cover crops improve the biodiversity of an area.
• Cover crops enhance the structure of the soil and improve water filtration.
• This is an organic way to control pests.

Traditional Cover Crops

Cover crops were widely used, even in big agriculture, right up to the middle of the 1900s. Use dropped off in favor of pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizer. But now there is renewed interest in cover crops and in using less of those industrial chemicals. Gardeners can get in on this too. Here are some plants traditionally used as cover crops to get you thinking:

• Hairy vetch
• White or red clover
• Winter or annual rye
• Field peas
• Soybeans
• Alfalfa
• Buckwheat

Legumes are especially popular as cover crops, and have been since ancient times, because they fix nitrogen and add it to the soil where cash crops can benefit from it.

Frosty ferns are very misunderstood plants, both in name and care requirements. They frequently pop up in stores and nurseries around the holidays (probably due to their wintery name) but many buyers see them fail and die soon after they come home. Keep reading to learn more frosty fern information, including how to grow a frosty fern correctly.

Frosty Fern Information

What is a frosty fern? Common consensus seems to have trouble on this front, because the frosty fern (sometimes also sold as a “Frosted Fern”) isn’t actually a fern at all! Known as Selaginella kraussiana, it is actually a variety of spike moss (which, confusingly enough, isn’t really a kind of moss either). Does any of this matter for knowing how to grow it? Not really. What’s important to know is that a frosty fern is what’s known as a “fern ally,” which means that even though it isn’t technically a fern, it behaves like one, reproducing via spores. The frosty fern gets its name from the distinctive white color of its new growth, giving its tips a frosted appearance. In optimal conditions, it can reach 12 inches in height (31 cm.), but in homes it tends to top out at about 8 inches (20 cm.).

How to Grow a Frosty Fern

Care for frosty ferns can be a little tricky, and gardeners who don’t know a few simple growing requirements are often frustrated by plants that quickly fail. The most important thing to know when growing frosty fern plants is that they need at least 70 percent humidity. This is much higher than the average home. In order to keep your plant moist enough, you’ll need to raise the humidity by keeping it on top of a tray of pebbles and water, or in a terrarium. Frosty ferns actually perform very well in terrariums since they’re small and require little light. Water frequently, but don’t let your plant’s roots sit in standing water. The frosty fern does best in temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees F. (15-27 C.) and will start to suffer in temperatures much hotter or colder. Too much nitrogen fertilizer will turn the white tips green, so make sure to feed sparingly. As long as you treat it right, your frosty fern will grow reliably and beautifully for years.

Both creeping phlox (Phlox stoloniferais, Phlox subulata) and tall garden phlox (Phlox paniculata) are favorites in flower beds. Large patches of pink, white, purple, or blue creeping phlox are a cheery sight in spring when most other plants are just waking up from their winter slumber. Tall phlox can dominate the summer garden with long lasting, continual blooms that draw butterflies, bees, and even hummingbirds to the garden. Unfortunately, both types of phlox can be prone to a variety of diseases and pests that can discourage gardeners from growing the charming plants. In this article, we will discuss reasons for phlox yellowing and drying out.

Why is My Phlox Yellow and Dry?

Phlox plants are specifically prone to fungal diseases such as southern blight, rust, powdery mildew, etc. Powdery mildew is the most common fungal disease of phlox plants. This disease is first noticed by the powdery white spots or coating on plant tissues. The disease may progress to phlox yellowing and drying out, as well as excessive leaf drop. Fungal diseases can deplete phlox plants of vital nutrients and water by interrupting the plant’s natural flow of xylem and phloem and its ability to photosynthesize properly. This can lead to yellow or chlorotic and dried out phlox plants. Nutrient deficiencies, lack of water, improper lighting, and chemical drift can also cause yellow, dried out phlox plants. In addition to fungal diseases and unsatisfactory environmental conditions, phlox plants can fall victim to viral diseases such as mosaic virus, curly top virus, and aster yellows. These diseases can oftentimes present themselves as phlox yellowing and drying out. Many viral diseases are spread by insects like leafhoppers.

Managing Dried Out Phlox Plants

Most fungal diseases are soil borne and infect phlox plants when water from rain or manual watering splashes back up from infected soil onto plant tissues. Watering plants with a slow, light trickle of water directly at the root zone can help prevent the spread of many fungal diseases. However, we cannot control rain; therefore, using preventative fungal sprays before symptoms appear can also be beneficial. It is also important to provide phlox plants with proper air circulation, prevent overcrowding by properly spacing plants and dividing them frequently, and always clean up and discard fallen leaves and other plants infected with garden diseases. To ensure healthy plants, phlox should be fertilized regularly, either with slow-release fertilizer for flowering plants or monthly foliar sprays. Phlox plants also prefer slightly acidic soil and may not perform well in soils that are too alkaline. Creeping phlox and tall garden phlox grow best in full sun; in densely shaded areas phlox plants may yellow and not grow properly. Preventative insect control may protect phlox plants from viral diseases. However, when a phlox plant is infected with a viral disease, there is usually no cure. Infected plants should be dug up and destroyed.

Blue porterweed is a low growing south Florida native that produces small blue flowers nearly year-round and is an excellent choice for attracting pollinators. It’s also great as a groundcover. Keep reading to learn more about using blue porterweed for ground coverage.

Blue Porterweed Groundcover Facts

Blue porterweed plants (Stachytarpheta jamaicensis) are native to south Florida, though they have since ranged throughout most of the state. Since they are only hardy to USDA zone 9b, they have not travelled farther north. Blue porterweed is often confused with Stachytarpheta urticifolia, a non-native cousin that grows more aggressively and should not be planted. It also grows taller, as high as 5 feet (1.5 m.), and woodier, which makes it less effective as a groundcover. Blue porterweed, on the other hand, tends to reach 1 to 3 feet (31-91 cm.) in height and width. It grows quickly and spreads out as it grows, making for an excellent groundcover. It is also extremely attractive to pollinators. It produces small, blue to purple flowers. Each individual flower stays open for only one day, but the plant produces such a large number of them that they are very showy and attract plenty of butterflies.

How to Grow Blue Porterweed for Ground Coverage

Blue porterweed plants grow best in full sun to partial shade. When they are first planted, they need moist soil but, once established, they can handle drought quite well. They can tolerate salty conditions too. If you’re planting them as groundcover, space the plants out by 2.5 to 3 feet (76-91 cm.). As they grow, they will spread out and create an attractive continuous bed of flowering shrub. Cut the shrubs back vigorously in late spring to encourage new summer growth. Throughout the year, you can prune them lightly to maintain an even height and attractive shape.

Groundcovers serve a number of important functions in the landscape. They are versatile plants that conserve water, minimize soil erosion, keep weeds in check, reduce dust, and provide beauty, often in shade or other difficult areas where nothing else will grow. The tricky part is figuring out how to space groundcover plants so they fill in quickly, but optimal groundcover spacing depends on a number of factors. Read on for helpful tips on spacing for groundcover plants.

How Far to Plant Spreading Plants

As a general rule of thumb, most groundcovers do well when spaced 12 to 24 inches (31-61 cm.) apart, but when it comes to figuring the distance between groundcover plants, it’s important to consider the growth habits of the particular plant and how quickly you want to fill the space. Of course, your budget is also an important factor. For example, creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis) is a hardy, well-behaved evergreen that can eventually spread to a width of 6 to 8 feet (2-2.5 m.), but it won’t happen overnight. If you want the space to fill relatively quickly, allow about 24 inches (61 cm.) between plants. If you have a little more time or your budget is limited, consider groundcover spacing of at least 4 feet (1 m.). On the other hand, crown vetch (Securigeria varia) spreads quickly, and one plant can cover an area 6 feet (2 m.) wide. A distance of about 12 inches (31 cm.) between plants will create cover fairly rapidly. Another general tip on calculating groundcover spacing is to consider the plant’s maximum width at maturity, then allow that much space between plants. Allow a little more space for fast-growing groundcovers. Plant them a little closer if they’re slow growers. Keep in mind that some groundcovers that spread rapidly can become aggressive. A perfect example is English ivy (Hedera helix). While English ivy is beautiful year-round and fills in fairly quickly, it is extremely aggressive and is considered a noxious weed in certain areas, including the Pacific Northwest. Check with your local cooperative extension if you’re unsure about a plant’s invasive potential before planting in the garden.

Plant names can be the source of a lot of confusion. It’s not at all uncommon for two completely different plants to go by the same common name, which can lead to some real problems when you’re trying to research care and growing conditions. One such naming debacle is the one involving thrift. What is thrift, exactly? Just why is phlox called thrift, but only sometimes? Keep reading to learn more about the difference between thrift and phlox plants.

Phlox vs. Thrift Plants

Is thrift a kind of phlox? Yes and no. Unfortunately, there are two completely different plants that go by the name “thrift.” You guessed it, one of them is a kind of phlox. Phlox subulata, known as creeping phlox or moss phlox, is also frequently called “thrift.” This plant is a true member of the phlox family. Especially popular in the southeastern U.S., it is actually hardy in USDA zones 2 through 9. It is a low growing, creeping perennial that is frequently used for groundcover. It produces lots of small, brightly colored flowers in shades of pink, red, white, purple, and red. It does best in rich, moist, slightly alkaline soils, and can tolerate shade. So, what is thrift then? The other plant that goes by the name “thrift” is Armeria, and it’s actually a genus of plants that are in no way related to phlox. Some popular species include Armeria juniperifolia (juniper-leaved thrift) and Armeria maritima (sea thrift). Rather than the low growing, creeping habit of their namesake, these plants grow in compact, grassy mounds. They prefer drier, well-drained soil and full sun. They have high salt tolerance and do well in coastal regions.

Why is Phlox Called Thrift?

It’s hard to tell sometimes how two very different plants can wind up with the same name. Language is a funny thing, particularly when regional plants that were named hundreds of years ago finally meet each other on the internet, where so much information is so easily mixed. If you’re thinking of growing something called thrift, take a look at its growing habit (or better yet, its scientific Latin name) to deduce which thrift it is you’re actually dealing with.

Evergreen vines can help us cover up and soften walls and fences. They can also be used as groundcovers for troublesome areas of the garden, such as slopes or other areas where grass has a hard time establishing. Algerian ivy plants are one such plant that will easily establish, where turf or other plants won’t. Continue reading for more information on growing Algerian ivy.

Algerian Ivy Information

Algerian ivy (Hedera algeriensis or Hedera canariensis) is also commonly called Canary Island ivy, Canary ivy, or Madeira ivy. It is an evergreen vine native to western regions and islands of Africa. Algerian ivy is hardy in zones 7 through 11. It will grow in full sun, but it may be stunted and will need frequent watering in full sun. It prefers to grow in part to full shade. There are several variegated varieties of Algerian ivy, such as ‘Gloire de Marengo’ and ‘Canary Cream.’ However, when planted in deep shade, the variegated varieties may revert to all green. When grown in the right conditions, Algerian ivy vines can quickly reach 40 foot (12 m.) long. They climb up walls or spread over ground by aerial roots. Algerian ivy is not picky about soil type and will grow in clay, sandy, loam, or chalky and acidic soil. It does prefer a sheltered location, though, from drying winds. Algerian ivy does bear flowers and fruit, but the flowers are small, inconspicuous, and yellow to green. The foliage and berries of Algerian ivy are toxic and should be taken into consideration before growing Algerian ivy in locations frequented by small children and pets.

How to Care for Algerian Ivy in the Garden

Algerian ivy plants can be trimmed back in spring to control their growth. As groundcovers, you may need to train the vines to grow in the proper direction to fill in the desired area. In the cooler regions of their hardiness zone, it may be necessary to mulch plants in fall. Certain varieties of Algerian ivy may develop a bronze or purple tinge through the winter months. Regular watering so of Algerian ivy is recommended in hot, dry climates. Like many plants for shaded areas, snails and slugs may be a problem.

Black rot on creeping phlox is a major problem for greenhouse plants, but this destructive fungal disease can also afflict plants in the garden. Severely infected plants often die because the roots are unable to take up nutrients and water. Early identification and treatment are critical for managing the disease. Read on to learn what to do about creeping phlox with black rot.

Symptoms of Black Rot on Creeping Phlox

Creeping phlox with black rot may initially look like the plants lack fertilizer. When infections are mild, older leaves are often yellowish green, while younger leaves may take on a reddish tint. As the disease progresses, lower leaves curl downward. The roots of rotting creeping phlox plants display light brown spots and lesions develop on the stems. Eventually, the roots shrivel and turn brown or black.

Causes of Creeping Phlox Black Rot

Black rot is favored when the weather is moist and temperatures are cool, between 55 and 61 degrees F. (12-16 C.). The disease is less common when temps are 72 degrees F. (22 C.) and above. Black rot on creeping phlox is spread through the soil and by rain or overhead sprinklers via waterborne spores. Excessive irrigation contributes to the problem. Plants grown in alkaline soil are also more susceptible to black rot. In greenhouses, fungal gnats are efficient at spreading the disease.

Treating Creeping Phlox with Black Rot

Treating creeping phlox with black rot is difficult because the spores live in the soil, on gardening tools, and in infected pots for a long time. However, careful monitoring and vigilant care can limit damage. Here are a few helpful tips: Remove diseased plants or plant parts immediately to limit spread of the disease. Dispose of infected growth in sealed bags or by burning. Avoid overwatering. Irrigating in the morning is best because the foliage has time to dry before temperatures drop in the evening. Fertilize regularly, but don’t overfeed the plants. Lush new growth may be more susceptible to black rot disease. Thin plants as needed to avoid overcrowding. Maintain slightly acidic soil because black rot thrives in neutral or alkaline conditions. Test your soil first to determine how much adjustment is needed. Tests are available at most garden centers. Your local cooperative extension office can also advise you about soil pH. If you’re growing creeping phlox in a greenhouse, be sure to keep the growing area, and the entire greenhouse, as clean as possible. Don’t re-use trays or pots for phlox or other susceptible plants. Many ornamentals are susceptible to black rot, including:

• Begonia
• Pansy
• Impatiens
• Fuchsia
• Verbena
• Snapdragon
• Vinca
• Heuchera
• Bleeding heart
• Gaillardia

Fungicides may be effective when applied regularly, but only if applied when symptoms first appear. If weather conditions are conductive to black rot, consider treating with fungicide before symptoms show up.

Annual plants add interesting color and drama to spring and summer gardens. Drummond's phlox plants also provide a heady scent combined with deeply scarlet blooms. It is a small bushy plant that is fairly easy to grow from seed in the right conditions. Try growing Drummond's phlox in flower beds, containers or as part of a border. Their bright beauty and ease of care make them a winning specimen for a host of applications.

Annual Phlox Info

Drummond's phlox plants (Phlox drummondii) are named for Thomas Drummond. He sent seed to England from its native Texas, where trials began on their cultivation requirements. The plants don't do well in the region due to its high rainfall and soil types, but they are still popular in the southwestern United States. When you know how to grow annual phlox, you will have a plant for life even if it dies out in the cooler season. This is because the seed heads are easy to harvest, store and plant indoors or out. The seeds germinate in just 10 to 30 days and provide spring blooms sometimes into early summer. The colors can vary from dark red to soft pink, depending upon the soil type and light exposure. Deepest colors come in sandy soil where light is brightest. New cultivars are available with blooms in hues of white, yellow, pink and even lime green. The leaves and stems are finely haired. The foliage is oval to lance shaped and alternate. Plants grow 8 to 24 inches tall (20 to 61 cm.). The fruit is a dry capsule filled with numerous tiny seeds. Annual phlox care is minimal, as they are drought tolerant and flower well in full sun to partial shade.

How to Grow Annual Phlox

Phlox fruits dry on the plant and then are ready for harvest. Remove them when dry, and crack over a container to capture the seed. You can store them in an airtight container in a cool, dark location until spring. Plant seeds indoors before the last frost or outdoors in a prepared bed after all danger of frost has passed. Either a full sun or partial shade location will work for growing Drummond's phlox. Soil should be a bit on the sandy side and drain well. Keep moderately moist as the seedlings mature. Annual phlox info also states the plant can be propagated by herbaceous stem cuttings.

Annual Phlox Care

Annual phlox should be kept lightly moist. It is drought tolerant for brief periods of time but extreme drought will cause flower production to fall off. The flowers are self-cleaning and petals fall off naturally, leaving the calyx which becomes the seed pods. Phlox plants thrive even in low-nutrient soil and do not need fertilization. They also need no pinching to naturally form dense little bushy plants full of vibrant flowers. In fact, annual phlox is a no-fuss plant that will scent the garden, attract butterflies and bees and their fruits are attractive to some birds as food.

As an outdoor plant it makes a pretty groundcover or trailing plant, but growing a Silver Falls dichondra indoors in a container is also a great option. This evergreen, hardy plant grows gorgeous silvery foliage and makes a nice addition to any home with the right care.

What is Silver Falls Dichondra?

Silver Falls is the common name for Dichondra argentea, an herbaceous and evergreen perennial. Outdoors it is hardy to zone 10 and can be grown as a low groundcover or as a plant that trails over the edge of a raised bed or container. It is especially popular in hanging baskets because of its trailing foliage. The name Silver Falls comes from the unique coloring of the leaves, a silvery pale green. The flowers are not very noticeable and the real reason to grow this plant is for the pretty leaves. It is also prized for its ability to spread and cover an area vigorously and quickly as well as for its low-maintenance nature.

How to Grow a Silver Falls Plant Indoors

Growing a Silver Falls plant indoors is a great way to add a different element to your houseplants. Not typically grown inside, Silver Falls does well in containers and there is no reason you shouldn’t try it. Silver falls dichondra care is simple and you’ll find that if you give your potted plant the right conditions, it will thrive and grow vigorously. Give your Silver Falls houseplant rich, but not heavy soil and make sure the container will drain well. It prefers medium to dry conditions, so staying inside in the winter with drier air is usually no problem for this plant. Make sure the pot is big enough to allow the plant to spread or be prepared to trim it back as needed. Find a spot that gets some direct sunlight throughout the day, as Silver Falls prefers partial shade to full sunlight. The real beauty of growing a Silver Falls plant indoors is getting masses of trailing, silvery foliage, so find a place in your home that will let it shine. A basket hanging from the ceiling or a pot that sits on a tall table are good options for enjoying the trailing vines of your Silver Falls houseplant. During spring and summer months you can allow the plant to soak up the sun outdoors.

Creeping phlox isn't much to write home about until it blooms. That is when the plant really shines. These spring bloomers come in pink, white, lavender, and even red. It has a ground hugging habit and stems become woody as this perennial ages. Propagation of this plant is through division, stem cuttings, or rooted stems. Creeping phlox cuttings root after a few months, readily providing new plants almost effortlessly. Timing is everything when taking creeping phlox cuttings. Learn how to take cuttings from creeping phlox and when to do it for maximum success.

When to Take Cuttings from Creeping Phlox

If you are a lover of this plant, it’s easy to propagate creeping phlox from cuttings. This is a nearly foolproof way to make more plants and add different colors to your collection for free. Creeping phlox sends out runners, rooting stems that are also a quick way to propagate the plant. Creeping phlox cuttings should be taken in either summer or fall, but seem to root best if planted in autumn. Some gardeners swear by taking them early in the season when they are actively growing, but the plants persist well into the cold season and rooted nodes will still sufficiently establish by the time full winter arrives. Cuttings of creeping phlox may be rooted stems which will more quickly establish or terminal end cuttings. The latter will need more time to send out roots but will do so provided they are cut near a growth node.

How to Grow Creeping Phlox from Cuttings

Either remove a 6 inch (15 cm.) section of a rooted stem or take the same amount from a lateral shoot near the tip. Make your cut ½ inch (1 cm.) below a leaf. Use sharp, clean cutting tools to prevent disease from spreading and injury to the plant. Each cutting must have at least one leaf and be free of flowers. Cuttings of creeping phlox do not require a pre-treatment of rooting hormone before planting, but it may speed up the process. If you choose to do so, dip the cut end into the hormone and shake the excess off. You are now ready to plant. In order to successfully propagate creeping phlox from cuttings, you need to observe the appropriate planting and care instructions. Choose a fast draining growing medium such as a combination of peat, coarse sand, and perlite. Pull the leaves off the bottom 1/3 of the cutting. Plant the cut end 4 inches (10 cm.) into the soil after you treat with the hormone, if you wish. Keep the planting medium moderately moist and place the container in bright but indirect light. You may also choose to place a plastic bag over the container to conserve moisture. Remove it once a day to prevent fungal build up in soil. In four to six weeks the plant should be rooted and ready for transplant.