If you love to cook, you already know how much herbs add to a recipe. But what if, instead of using dried herbs or quick-grown packaged herbs from the grocery store, you could pluck fresh, tasty herbs right from your own backyard? Because you'll be shocked how much more flavorful homegrown herbs are.

Most are so simple to grow, too. Many home cooks assume growing herbs is only for the greenest of thumbs, but these plants are very forgiving. Our selection of beginner-friendly herbs are especially easy to grow, and you don't need to have any specialist gardening knowledge to raise them successfully. All thrive in containers, too, so even if your garden space is a doorstep or a balcony, you can grow them. Not only do homegrown herbs taste so much better, they'll save you money, too.

There are many varieties to choose from that you simply can't buy in stores, so there's a world of flavors waiting to be explored. Be warned, though: once you start a herb garden and realise the difference adding fresh leaves makes to all your dishes, you'll want to grow more.

Why Herbs Are Great for Beginner Gardeners

Most popular culinary herbs originate from countries bordering the Mediterranean Sea such as Italy, Greece and Spain. There they evolved to thrive in a hot, dry climate, often in poor, sandy soil – and this makes them very easy to grow. Get the basics right (and they're detailed below), and you can't go wrong.

The varieties we’ve chosen here are particularly forgiving and are the best herbs for beginner gardeners, and can be grown in beds or containers. Many gardeners like to grow herbs in a raised garden bed with wheels such as this from Amazon. This puts your herbs at a good height for harvesting and keeps them away from slugs and snails, and you can wheel the planter from back door to barbecue to outdoor dining table for easy pickings.

To replicate the fast-draining conditions herbs have evolved in, grow your plants in fast-draining soil. You can buy potting soil designed especially for herbs such as Rosy Soil Herb, available from Amazon, or use a multipurpose potting mix with moisture control such as Miracle Gro Moisture Control Potting Mix, also available from Amazon.

The Easy Herbs Every Cook Should Grow

1. Basil

Topping our list of easy herbs to grow, basil is often known as the king of herbs for its elegant aroma and flavor. It’s a must-have herb in Italian dishes, including pizza, pastas, pesto, and any recipe with tomatoes. Basil grows quickly from seed and is highly productive, giving even first-time gardeners a good harvest.

Grow basil in a warm spot that gets at least 6 hours of sun a day. Harvest early and often by pinching off leaves, which encourages more growth. Don’t let flowers develop, though, as this changes the flavor of the leaves – just pinch flowerbuds off as you spot them.

Basil doesn't tolerate the cold so in most zones, it's best to sow anew every spring, or take the pot indoors over winter. It can be overwintered outside in zones 10 and 11. There are all sorts of basil varieties to choose from, offering a surprising spectrum of flavors, from classic Italian Genovese to sweet Purple Petra and citrus Lemon Basil, with seeds available from Botanical Interests. If you don't want to wait for seeds to grow, then you can buy Sweet Basil plants from Lowes.

2. Mint

Mint is a versatile culinary herb, useful for everything from meats and salads to teas and desserts. It’s also good for your digestion, and it's quick and easy to steep leaves in just-boiled water to make an after-dinner herb tea. Harvest leaves regularly by pinching or snipping off entire stems.

Mint is among the easiest of all plants – not just herbs – to grow in sun or partial shade. In fact, it's so enthusiastic that you should only grow mint in a pot, and stand that container on hard ground lest the roots escape from the drainage hole. Grown in the ground, runners will shoot out in all directions and can take over big areas.

Hardy in zones 3 through 11, once you've planted mint it will be with you practically forever! Regular common mint is quick and easy to grow from seed, and you can buy seed from Amazon. There are over 7,500 varieties of mint though, and each has its own flavor, so do explore. A great one to try is Chocolate Mint which has a mint-choc-chip flavor, and plants are available from Nature Hills Nursery.

3. Chives

Chives provide a delicate onion flavor perfect for potato dishes, dips, eggs, and salads. It’s very easy to grow chives in a variety of conditions, even partial shade, as long as the soil drains well. Chive plants are hardy in zones 3–10 and are quick to grow from seed, and Burpee has some flavorful varieties to choose from.

The flowers are also edible, and very pretty, making chives one of the best herbs to grow. There are even varieties that have been bred to be more ornamental with bigger flowers, with the leaves just as flavorful, such as Chivette Chives, and plants are available from Nature Hills Nursery.

To harvest chives, use a sharp pair of scissors to snip leaves off at the base. Do not pull them out by the root. Harvest chives regularly not just to enjoy them in the kitchen, but also to keep the plant from getting too crowded.

4. Parsley

Parsley is one of the most versatile of culinary herbs and a workhorse in the kitchen. Use it whenever you want a green herby flavor to lighten a heavy dish. It works well in stocks, soups, and stews, and in parsley-heavy condiments and salads, like chimichurri and tabouleh.

Parsley is hardy in zones 5 through 9, though it's a short-lived plant so it's easier to sow fresh every year, in all zones. Burpee stocks a great selection of seeds, including the very flavorful flat-leafed parsley. Or, if you're impatient to get cooking, Flat Italian Parsley plants are available from Lowes.

You can grow parsley in full sun or partial shade, and harvest by cutting stems at the base from the outside of the plant, not the centre.

5. Thyme

Thyme works well in heavy, flavorful dishes, including stews, cooked meats, and roasted vegetables. In the garden, thyme is a drought- and heat-tolerant sun-lover that thrives even when neglected. Grow thyme in soil that drains very well, as this plant can even cope with sandy or rocky conditions. In zones 5 through 9, thyme plants will last for years.

You can buy culinary thyme seeds from Eden Brothers, or skip straight to the good bit with English Thyme plants from Lowes. To harvest thyme, trim off the tender, non-woody stem tips frequently throughout the growing season.

6. Rosemary

Like thyme, rosemary is a forgiving herb that grows well even in dry, hot conditions. Also like thyme, it needs full sun and very good drainage, and won’t tolerate soggy soil or wet roots. A plant will last for years and you can grow rosemary outdoors year-round in zones 8-11; if you grow this herb in cooler climates, then it needs to be overwintered indoors.

Rosemary is very slow and tricky to grow from seed, so buy an established plant, available from Lowes.

Harvest rosemary by snipping off the tender green tips of stems and enjoy their bold, piney flavor in robust dishes such as stews, roasted meats and vegetables, and sauces. It’s even good in baked goods like breads, scones, and crackers.

7. Oregano

Oregano is a staple in many Mediterranean dishes and also commonly used in Mexican recipes, so this is a versatile herb with an earthy flavor you can use in many ways. It pairs very well with tomatoes and roasted vegetables, and is a must on pizza.

Oregano grows readily in full sun and hot conditions. Once established, it won’t need to be watered often, and thrives outdoors in zones 4 through 10. This isn't the easiest plant to grow from seed, so we recommend buying a plant, and Italian Oregano is available from Lowes.

Harvest leaves by snipping off tips and stems before the plant blooms, as flower development changes the flavor.

8. Cilantro

Yet another versatile herb on this list, cilantro is popular in Mexican, Asian, and Middle Eastern cuisines. It is a divisive herb and you either love it or you hate it! If you love cilantro, you’re in luck because it’s quick and easy to grow from seed, with a good selection stocked by Burpee. If you're a big cilantro fan then regular cilantro is for you; if not then do try Confetti Cilantro which as a more subtle taste.

Most folk in all zones grow cilantro fresh from seed every year as it's so fast-growing, though plants will survive outdoors year-round in zones 8-11. However, cilantro tends to bolt (go to seed) very quickly in temperatures above 50°F, when the taste becomes bitter. In hotter zones, grow new variety Calypso Cilantro, which is far slower to bolt and also available from Burpee.

Harvest cilantro by plucking leaves and stems from the outside of the plant.

Expert Herb-Growing Tips

While growing herbs is generally easy, these expert growing tips will ensure a bountiful, flavorful harvest:

• Read the plant label or online description to understand what conditions it will thrive in.
• You can plant herbs that like the same conditions in one planter. Thyme pairs well with rosemary as they both like dry conditions, while cilantro is a good pot-mate for basil as they both prefer more moisture. If you're planting your herbs in a raised bed, simply put those that like drier conditions at one end and those that prefer more moisture at the other. It's best to give mint its own pot as it's a bully of a housemate!
• If you're growing herbs in pots, they'll need watering regularly as the soil will dry out more quickly than if they were planted in the ground. Be careful not to overwater, though, especially with Mediterranean herbs like rosemary, thyme, and oregano.
• Don’t bother with fertilizer as most herbs don’t need it. In fact, too much feeding can reduce the concentration of flavorful oils in the leaves.
• Harvest your herbs regularly. Not only does this give you a steady supply of culinary ingredients, but it also encourages the plant to grow more.
• Extend the growing season by bringing pots indoors for winter. Place them by sunny windows to get year-round harvests.

Common Herb-Growing Mistakes

These herbs are very forgiving, even for newbies, but it’s still possible to make mistakes. Avoid these common pitfalls:

• Overwatering – this is the number one killer of new herb plants!
• Harvesting more than one-third of the plant at a time. It's important to leave enough leaves for the plant to photosynthesize.
• Letting herbs flower, also known as bolting, which stops leaf production and changes the flavor.

Fresh herbs offer some of the biggest gardening rewards for the least effort. If you like to cook but are new to gardening, don’t be intimidated. Herbs are much easier to grow than you think, especially if you start with these beginner-friendly options.

A natural, calorie-free sweetener you can grow in your own home garden? Sign me up! You may have seen powdered stevia sweetener on grocery store aisles, but you can grow your own much more cheaply and use your harvest year-round.

The stevia plant (Stevia rebaudiana) is an herb native to Brazil and Paraguay and hardy in USDA Zones 9-11. However, you can grow it as an annual in other zones and it makes a particularly nice container plant or addition to a kitchen garden.

Unlike artificial sweeteners, stevia is a natural source of sweetness and, unlike sugar or honey, it has zero calories. You can grow stevia from seed or buy a live stevia plant from Hirt’s Gardens on Amazon. Let’s explore how to grow and use stevia as a natural, homegrown sweetener!

How to Grow Stevia Plants

Did you know that stevia is 200-300 times sweeter than white sugar? Pretty impressive for such a lowkey plant, and you can easily grow your own to sweeten any recipe.

Stevia plants like warmth and well-drained soil. While they are perennial herbs in USDA Zones 9-11, they can be overwintered indoors in cooler climates or planted anew every spring. Plant your stevia plants 18 inches apart in the ground or a raised bed, or plant one in a 12-inch porch pot.

Stevia likes consistent moisture but you shouldn’t let the soil become soggy. A simple soil moisture meter from Amazon will help you to keep track of the moisture levels, or water when the top inch of soil is dry.

Ensure your stevia plants get 6 or more hours of sunlight, and cut off any flowers that might pop up to help the leaves retain their sweetness.

Stevia leaves are most sweet during the fall when temperatures begin to cool off, but they can still be harvested and enjoyed through the spring and summer.

How to Use Stevia Plants as a Natural, Sugar-Free Sweetener

There are a couple different ways to use stevia leaves to sweeten your culinary adventures. Leaves can be used fresh, dried, or as an infusion. Stevia plant leaves are about a quarter of the sweetness of commercially available stevia powders, so it is harder to over-sweeten things.

Note: Stevia leaves and commercial stevia powders should not be consumed during pregnancy without first consulting your doctor.

1. Using Fresh Stevia Leaves

A great way to use your homegrown stevia is fresh off the plant! Take a leaf, drop it in a mug and pour your hot tea or coffee over it to extract its sweetness.

You could do the same thing if making a batch of iced tea this summer! Boil water, place tea bags and 4-5 stevia leaves in your pitcher, and pour the water in. Let it cool and add some ice for a sugar-free taste of summer!

2. Using Dried Stevia Leaves

Again, your stevia will be the sweetest at the end of the growing season, but you can harvest all season long. In order to save the sweetness for your cups of tea this fall and winter, harvest and dry your leaves to use as a powder.

Snip off stevia stems and strip the leaves off of them. Place the leaves on a kitchen towel in the sun to dry out for a couple days or use a food dehydrator like this highly-rated one from Amazon to speed things up. Once the leaves are dry, blitz them in a food processor or spice grinder to turn them into a powder that can be stored in an airtight container.

Take a little pinch and add it to your food and beverages for a boost of sweetness!

3. Make a Stevia Leaf Infusion

A great way to use your stevia leaves is in an infusion. You can make an infusion with water, or by using vodka and cooking off the alcohol in it.

To make an infusion with water, rinse and coarsely chop ½ cup of stevia leaves. Place in a jar and pour 1 cup of warm water over top. Steep for 24-36 hours and strain out the leaves. You could also use a teapot with a removable tea infuser basket like this one from Amazon. Store your infusion in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 1-2 weeks.

To make an infusion with vodka, rinse and coarsely chop 1 cup of stevia leaves. Place leaves in a lidded jar with 1 cup of any brand of vodka, cover, and shake the jar. Ensure all the leaves are covered by the vodka and let sit for no more than 48 hours. Strain out the leaves and pour the infusion into a small saucepot. Simmer the vodka infusion on the stove for 5-7 minutes to cook off the alcohol and store in an airtight container in the fridge for 2-3 months.

Stevia is a wonderful way to sweeten beverages and food naturally without adding sugar and extra calories. Add this unique herb to your garden and get ready for a sweet reward!

Lavender is one of the classic sun-loving, drought-tolerant plants from the south of France and Italy, so it’s easy to think that it’s tough enough to take whatever summer extremes come your way. But this iconic beauty with its vibrant purple blooms and aromatic foliage needs some help to make it through the season. July can bring sweltering heatwaves and intense bouts of sunshine that can wilt many a perennial. So a little midsummer TLC is key to sustaining those vibrant hues and potent oils.

Just because lavender originates on sun-baked Mediterranean hillsides, that doesn’t mean it thrives on neglect. While established plants are drought tolerant, some midsummer lavender care can make all the difference to its vitality and longevity. If you leave your lavender to its own devices during a hot July, you risk accelerating its transition into seed production, which shuts down the flowering cycle early. Worse, improper care now can trigger root rot or stunt growth, leading to that leggy look every grower dreads.

Fortunately, keeping your lavender in peak health is easy. By dedicating less than an hour this week to these 5 simple checks, you will promote a lasting splash of purple vigor and vitality throughout the season, guaranteeing a garden filled with humming pollinators and intoxicating scent all summer long.

How to Help Your Lavender in July

It’s finally July and time to reach for the sunscreen! As the month begins, your garden is thriving, and hopefully you’ll be seeing flowers everywhere. However, the scorching sunshine and limited rain will soon take its toll, wilting blooms and baking leaves. Certain perennials do very well in hot sun, and lavender is actually one of them. But these timely lavender care tasks will help you to get even more from your blooms, both in terms of flowering windows and aromatic potency.

How you approach midsummer care will depend on the type of lavender you are growing and your local climate. The three main lavenders are English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia, such as Hidcote or Munstead), French or Spanish lavender (L. stoechas), and the robust hybrid Lavandins (L. x intermedia, like Grosso). These respond slightly differently to the midsummer elements. English lavenders are cold-hardy (USDA zones 5-8) but can struggle with excessive humidity, while Spanish types thrive in warmer hardiness zones (7-10) but have a shorter individual lifespan and a different blooming rhythm that peaks earlier.

Whether you’re growing your lavender in the ground or in containers presents its own challenges. Ground-based lavender benefits from an expansive, deep root system that can search for subterranean moisture, making it resilient against all but the most severe droughts. In contrast, container lavender lives in an artificial microclimate. The limited soil volume inside a pot will heat up rapidly under the July sun, drying out within hours and running the risk of baking the delicate root network.

Take a few minutes to check your soil’s existing condition. Investing in a multi-purpose soil diagnostic tool like the Raintrip 4-In-1 Meter, available from Amazon, is an excellent way to eliminate the guesswork, allowing you to check root-zone moisture and also light levels. If need be, amend with a little coarse sand or perlite to ensure the site is well draining before starting on these tasks.

1. Water Deeply but Infrequently

Lavender is not a plant that needs a lot of water. In fact, keeping lavender’s soil wet is a sure way to kill the shrub. But that doesn’t mean that lavender has no need for water. While lavender is very drought tolerant, every plant needs some moisture, and that need comes to the fore in summer. The question is not whether to water lavender in summer, but how to do it.

In July, water your lavender deeply, once a week. Prioritize depth over frequency. When you give a plant a frequent, shallow sprinkle of water, you encourage its root system to stay near the surface of the soil, where it remains vulnerable to being scorched by the afternoon heat. Watering deeply gets water to the bottom of the plant’s roots, around 24 inches (60cm) below the soil surface.

By applying a slow, deliberate drench directly at the base of the plant once a week, you encourage the roots to plunge deeply into the ground, reinforcing the plant’s natural drought defenses. This is especially true for heavy-blooming English varieties like Munstead, which require a reliable touch of moisture to sustain their heavy flower flushes without dropping their lower leaves.

Use a targeted delivery system like the Teknor Apex Zero-G Lightweight Vinyl Hose from Walmart to deliver a gentle stream at the soil line. For containerized lavenders, check them every 2-3 days using a moisture probe. When the top couple of inches (2cm) of compost feel dry, drench until water leaks from the drainage holes.

2. Move Containers into Full Sun

Lavender loves full sun, so July is a perfect time to check the positioning of all potted plants. Just because your container was in full sun back in May, that doesn’t mean it is still getting adequate light in July. As trees leaf out and neighboring perennials reach maximum height, a potted lavender can easily get thrown into partial shade.

If your plant doesn’t get 6-8 hours of unobstructed sunlight daily, its essential oil production plunges, stems grow weak and floppy, and soil stays damp for longer. Avoid tucked-away corners, north-facing shadows of walls, or dense groupings beneath patio umbrellas. And where you see potted lavender sulking in the shade, this is your time to take action and move it somewhere with more direct sunshine.

At the same time, check the soil in the container. Be sure that it is sandy or gravelly so that it drains well. If you find that the soil is clay, repot the plant and mix gravel or sand to allow the water to drain away from the roots. If your container plants are struggling with dense, compacted soil, add a little Miracle-Gro Potting Mix, available from Home Depot, along with some coarse grit or sand for the perfect porous base.

3. Avoid Pruning Lavender in July

Lavender plant care involves both actions you need to take and actions you must avoid. You probably pruned your lavender plant in spring to clean it up after winter. Another pruning is needed – but the timing is important. You need to prune lavender for the second time after the plant has stopped blooming, and that time is not July.

Pruning stimulates aggressive new, tender green growth. In the middle of July, these young shoots will be scorched by the intense sun, draining the plant's core energy reserves and leaving it susceptible to winter dieback. So resist any structural pruning until late August or early September, once the final flowering cycle has concluded.

However, you can (and should) deadhead spent lavender blooms through July. Remove faded flower spikes down to the first set of clean leaves, just above where new buds are forming. This channels plant energy into a second summer flush of color. To do this cleanly without crushing stems, use a razor-sharp tool like team favorite Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears, available from Amazon.

4. Monitor for Pests and Diseases

Lavender has grown happily on sun-baked Mediterranean hillsides for thousands of years. The general idea in France is: plant it in direct sun, give it top drainage, and leave it be. But you need to watch out for two different threats in midsummer. The first (and worst) is a plant disease known as root rot. It results from wet soil and can kill the plant.

If your plant seems to be turning brown or yellow, dig in the soil and look at the roots. If they are black or mushy, pull out and toss the plant. In July, root rot is likely caused by overwatering, which means you can avoid this problem if you water your plant appropriately and check air flow. Where plants are healthy, drenching the surrounding soil with a little Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide from Walmart can help suppress the fungal spores and protect adjacent healthy tissue.

Pests are the second threat, though less serious. Keep a look-out for aphids, whiteflies, and spittlebugs. Wash them off with the hose, or apply an insecticidal soap. Avoid harsh chemical pesticides that wipe out bees and butterflies. Instead, opt for a gentle blast of water from the hose, or use a pre-mixed, pollinator-safe soap, like Bonide Ready-to-Use Insect Soap from Amazon.

5. Add Mulch to Keep Down Weeds

Usually, you mulch plants to help hold moisture in the soil. This is not the case with lavender, which does best in dry, well-drained conditions. Traditional mulches, such as shredded hardwood or bark chips, are not a good idea. These trap moisture and form a cool, damp layer over the soil surface, inducing wood rot and fungal blight.

That said, you do still need to add a layer of mulch beneath your lavender. The idea is to keep down weeds and prevent the soil from getting too hot. But the best mulch for lavender is mineral based. A two-inch (5cm) layer of clean pea gravel, washed river stone, or crushed white quartzite helps to reflect heat, bouncing the intense July sunlight back up into the lower canopy of the shrub.

This extra light exposure directly stimulates the oil glands within the foliage, resulting in a noticeably more fragrant growing space. Furthermore, these stones dry out instantly after a summer storm, keeping the crown dry. For a quick and efficient lavender mulch, buy light-colored Fantian Pea Pebbles from Amazon and distribute them precisely around the base.

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Watching birds flock to our yard is one of the true delights of gardening, right? Most of us are nature lovers, so we get a lot of pleasure out of seeing and hearing the many varieties of local birds feed, nest, and roost in the backyard. Native plants, shelter, and food sources are important, but to attract birds and keep them healthy, a water source is also vital. A bird bath is a simple solution. It provides backyard birds with water to drink, bathe in, and cool off in.

But here is the thing: a simple basin of water left out in the blazing summer sun can quickly turn from a refreshing oasis into a stressful hazard. In the peak of the nesting season, our backyard birds aren't just looking for a casual splash; they are battling heatwaves, hunger pangs, and parasites like biting mites and ticks. To attract birds to your water station, you need to turn it into a true sanctuary. And to do this, you need to think beyond the concrete pedestal, and look at the surrounding plants.

By planting certain herbs around your bird bath, you can create a “bird spa” that offers shelter, perching spots, insect control, and even nutritious food. Most of these herbs are easy to grow and can be planted around a bird bath in summer, when birds are raising their young and seeking relief from summer heat. Setting up these aromatic plant shields now requires very little effort and can make a massive difference to the health and happiness of your garden birds. Here’s how to keep your feathered neighbors healthy all summer long.

How Herbs Help Birds

Bird baths naturally attract wildlife as a source of drinking and bathing water. Unfortunately, water sources also attract insects and pests. Standing water is a magnet for mosquitoes, gnats, flies, and more. This can make the area less pleasant and less healthy for birds (and you). Herbs around your bird bath provide a good remedy for this issue, while also providing other birdy benefits. Many release aromatic oils that insects dislike, reducing pest pressure without chemical sprays.

This summertime bird bath checkpoint is a vital moment to take action. If you leave things to chance, stagnant water can become a breeding ground for disease-carrying mosquitoes, while the surrounding open space can leave damp, waterlogged birds highly vulnerable to swooping predators – a classic bird bath mistake. Acting quickly with herbs is a genuine game-changer (and a nice smelling one). Yes, it’s important to keep water fresh using a wiggler or fountain, such as a Mademax Solar Bird Bath Fountain Upgrade from Amazon. But planting heavily fragrant herbs creates an extra level of protection against flying gnats, ticks, and mites in a potent way.

Dense herbal foliage can offer quick cover from predators, while woody stems and flower spikes provide convenient perches where birds can preen after bathing. Flowers that produce edible seeds or berries are also useful as an additional food source. The volatile essential oils of herbs act as an organic chemical shield. When birds brush past the foliage before or after a dip, they coat their feathers in subtle traces that discourage parasites, making bathing safer and more restorative.

8 Herbs for Happy Bird Baths

Transforming your water station into a safe and clean sanctuary is simple. July is an ideal time to get these key herbs into the ground or arrange them in pots around your water feature. Just give some thought to your yard’s microclimates and possible herb locations. Aim for a layered ring design. Use low-growing ground covers at the base of the bird bath, medium shrubs at the mid-tier, and tall structural stalks further back.

Most high-potency culinary herbs in USDA zones 3-10 will crave blazing full sun and sharply drained, gravelly soil. Before planting these herbs, verify light levels around your bath with a Sonkir 3-in-1 Light and Soil Moisture Tester from Amazon. You can also use this to determine moisture levels for new plants, adding some coarse sand or horticultural grit as needed, to ensure your new plantings get the perfect balance of warmth and drainage to thrive dynamically all season long. Then have fun planting bird-friendly herbs to create a spa-like sanctuary for feathered friends.

1. Lavender

Lavender is most well known for its characteristic and strong smell. The smell comes from essential oils in the plant that deter pests like mosquitoes. The oils can even deter mites, which can be harmful to birds. As well as being a lovely fragrant plant for pollinators, their flower spikes and stems are a great height for small birds, which can use them to perch on while surveying their surroundings before taking a bath. Grow lavender in full sun with well-draining soil. You can pick up Phenomenal Lavender Live Plants from Nature Hills for a rugged, humidity-resistant variety.

This perennial evergreen subshrub thrives in zones 5-9, hitting peak oil potency during July and August. The strong, clean aroma of linalool acts as an active pest-repellent field that shields delicate songbirds (like American goldfinches and black-capped chickadees) from blood-feeding avian mites. Just don’t let the plant roots sit in waterlogged soil from bird bath splashbacks. Position on the sun-baked, windward side of your water feature to allow the breeze to diffuse the fragrance.

2. Rosemary

Rosemary is another fragrant herb that provides a good staging point for birds. This small, woody shrub has sturdy branches that even medium-sized birds can use for perching and surveying or for hiding under. The woody stems stay in place in winter, providing year-round shelter. The smell of rosemary can discourage flying pests, like mosquitoes and flies, making the entire area more comfortable. Rosemary thrives in full sun, hot weather, and soil that drains well. You can buy Tuscan Blue Rosemary Starter Plants from Amazon.

Hardy as a permanent perennial in zones 7-11 (and a great container plant to overwinter further north), rosemary’s stiff, resinous branches support the weight of heavier, highly desirable yard birds like gray catbirds and northern cardinals, giving them a perch to dry their flight feathers and preen safely. The pungent, pine-like camphor oils are most potent under the midday sun, keeping biting flies far away. Pick an upright variety like Tuscan Blue for maximum height, or a cascading type to soften a stone pedestal base.

3. Mint

The scent of mint has long been regarded as refreshing and cooling. It’s an ideal herb for planting next to a water feature. It won’t suffer from any splashback from a bird bath and it creates a lush, green border that can help deter pests. Mint is very easy to grow but it can be quite invasive, so it’s best to only grow it in containers around the edges of your bird bath to prevent it from spreading into the lawn or beds. You can buy Black Robert Mitchum’s Peppermint from Walmart for a continuous blast of refreshing pest-repelling menthol.

Mint is a lifesaver for partial shade across zones 3-11. Varieties like peppermint (Mentha x piperita) or spearmint adore heavy water splashback, thriving on the overflow from bathing robins and blue jays. Its sharp, refreshing menthol oils peak in midsummer, driving away frustrating swarms of gnats and midges. Keep it confined to heavy patio containers or window boxes placed around the base of your bird bath. Its dense, lush canopy keeps low-foraging ground birds safe from summer predators.

4. Lemon Balm

Lemon balm has a bright citrus fragrance with natural compounds to discourage gnats and mosquitoes. The essential oils are similar to those found in citronella, a natural and powerful insect deterrent. As with mint, it provides a soft and lush leafy border around bird baths. The dense leafy coverage helps birds feel safer near their water source. Lemon balm is a fast grower, so keep up trimming it to encourage manageable growth through the season. Buy August Breeze Farm’s Lemon Balm Plants from Walmart for a lush, aromatic mound of citronella-rich leaves.

This ultra-hardy perennial flourishes across zones 3-9 in partial shade. The leaves release a strong, clean lemon fragrance whenever birds brush against them, making the surrounding air uncomfortable for invasive mosquitoes. Small, skittish songbirds like tufted titmice and house finches love slipping into its soft, dense foliage to dry off out of sight. Shear the plant back hard by half in mid-July to encourage fresh leaves.

5. Fennel

Fennel is a tall herb that you can grow as part of a second ring of plants around the bird bath. The tall, feathery arches provide visual interest, but also good perching areas for birds looking to bathe safely. Another great benefit of fennel is that it attracts insects that serve as a food source for your birds – for instance, it is a host plant for swallowtail butterfly caterpillars. These (and other insects drawn to fennel) provide a high-protein buffet for backyard birds. Buy Organic Bronze Fennel Live Plants from Amazon for height, texture, and beneficial insect activity.

This architectural perennial giant thrives in zones 4-9, reaching 5 feet tall (1.5m) by mid-July. Its delicate chartreuse or bronze fronds provide a semi-transparent privacy screen that filters harsh sunlight without blocking the view. Just don’t plant it near cilantro or wormwood, as they can stunt each other's growth. Its sturdy, umbrella-like seed heads offer an ideal landing deck for acrobatic indigo buntings and chickadees.

6. Catnip

While our feline friends are drawn to this herb from the mint family, flying insects don’t like catnip. So it’s another great choice for keeping pests away from your bird bath. Catnip produces a compound called nepetalactone, known to deter mosquitoes. Plant this, along with mint and lemon balm, to create a zone that is inhospitable to gnats, mosquitoes and other pests. Buy Catnip Starter Plants from Walmart for bushy clumps loaded with high-potency, pest-repelling compounds.

Of course, one potential issue with growing catnip is that it can draw in cats. To keep birds safe, plant your catnip 10-12 feet (3-4m) away from the bird bath, on the far side of a protective barrier. This clever spacing creates an excellent, highly effective aromatic drift that purifies the air without creating a dangerous ambush point for visiting songbirds. Also, don't let it flower continuously if you want to maximize its bug-repelling leaf potency. Pink it back frequently so it keeps coming back strong.

7. Common Thyme

A popular culinary herb, common thyme is also an attractive ground cover. Grow it around the edges of your bird bath to create a natural, softer, and safer surface for birds. The edge of a bird bath can be slippery for little birds' feet. This creeping herb provides some grip to give birds confidence landing at your water source. Thyme is easy to grow, as it tolerates heat and loves full sun. It just needs soil that drains well, but otherwise it is easy to maintain in the growing season. Buy Creeping Thyme Starter Plants from Amazon for an aromatic plant mat around the bird bath.

Hardy in zones 2-10, varieties like 'Creeping Red' or 'Elfin' form dense, springy, texturized carpets that wrap around slippery stone or plastic rims. Furthermore, the warm, earthy scent of thymol is released every time a bird lands on it, creating protection against crawling pests and skeeters. Just don't allow mud or wet leaves to sit on top of its foliage, as it requires clean air circulation to do its best work.

8. Echinacea

We don’t often think of this as a herb, but echinacea is absolutely a herb, and it’s a great companion plant for a bird bath. It provides a useful food source for birds that eat seeds. Also known as coneflower, echinacea flowers produce abundant seeds in large cones in late summer. The large cones mature into nutritious seeds and will feed birds through fall and even into winter, depending on how many flowers you grow. Grow in full sun close to your bird bath. You can buy Greenwood Nursery Store Magnus Coneflower Live Plants from Amazon for vibrant bird-friendly blooms.

This must-have structural perennial, hardy in zones 3-9, bridges the gap beautifully between your water feature and the surrounding yard. While its coarse leaves offer excellent mid-tier cover during the high-heat spikes of July, the real magic happens once the petals fade and those giant, oil-rich seed cones can support American goldfinches, pine siskins, and tufted titmice. So do leave the dead flower heads intact on the stalks near your bird baths. Pair your echinacea with native grasses to create a high-reward playground right next to your splash pool.

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

For me, the epitome of lush and healthy lavender tends to be tied up with picturesque scenes of rolling hillsides, coated with fragrant purple. Trouble is, the reality of growing lavender can often be a little less picturesque (and how many of us are lucky enough to have rolling hillsides to fill with plants?). Summer comes round, and we hope for those nascent spikes of baby blooms – and it can be genuinely gutting when our own lavender plants seem to be losing their mojo.

Visions of intoxicating evenings inhaling evocative fragrance seem mocking when the reality is a sad, woody clump that looks like it’s giving up on life. It can be tough when you feel like you're doing everything right by your lavender. You’ve given it a sun-baked spot and resisted the urge to drown it, yet the blooms are sparse and the fragrance is barely a whisper. Seeing this quintessential tough beauty underperform, it's tempting to just chalk it up to fate and assume you don't have the magic touch.

But don’t give up just yet. The thing is, your lavender doesn't want to be pampered with expensive, rich fertilizers. In fact, the secret to unlocking a flurry of billowing summer blooms is likely hiding in a box of school supplies, by which I mean ordinary chalk. Now, I know, the idea of crumbling kiddie’s chalk into your flower beds sounds like a playground prank. But chalk really can work wonders for your glum-looking lavender in early summer, and here’s how it works….

Why Does Lavender Crave Chalk?

To understand why a humble piece of chalk can transform your lavender’s fortunes, consider where this fragrant diva feels most at home. Most backyard soil across the US is naturally rich, slightly acidic, and dense, which is basically the exact opposite of what lavender wants. Native lavender enjoys clinging to the sun-baked soils of Provence or the rugged coastal cliffs of Greece, and thrives in lean, alkaline earth.

Now, back to that packet of chalk. Standard white chalk is pure calcium carbonate. Basically, when introduced to your garden bed, it acts like a soothing antacid, neutralizing the acidity and mimicking the chalky, high-soil pH environment that your lavender is secretly homesick for. This gateway to high summer is your best chance to take action. As we hit the peak of the sunny season, your lavender is working overtime to push out those iconic spikes. By introducing chalk to your soil now, the plant has both the energy and the incentive to grab that chalk with gusto.

Of course, it’s all a balancing act, and chalk isn’t going to be a magic fix if your soil is claggy or sulking in full shade. But allowing for your lavender type, growing zone, sunshine exposure, and soil drainage, checking in with your soil pH levels is vital. When the soil is too acidic, lavender is unable to absorb the nutrients around it. By lifting that barrier, you allow the plant’s roots to freely drink in what they need to produce robust stems, vivid purple spikes, and potent essential oils.

What Kind of Chalk is Best?

If you are eyeing a dusty box of chalk in your kid’s art box or play closet, let’s clear a few things up. Yes, you absolutely can use traditional white blackboard and sidewalk chalk, which is primarily composed of calcium carbonate (the ingredient found in agricultural lime). However, leave the neon, glittery, and washable outdoor chalks alone. Those modern varieties are loaded with artificial dyes, polymers, and binders. Stick to plain, old-school white chalk. You can grab Crayola Anti-Dust White Chalk (12 Count) from Amazon for a safe calcium carbonate top-up.

The way you use it is also important, though: this isn’t about burying chalk sticks randomly in your borders. It’s best to apply your chalk either as a fine powder or a chalk tea. And don’t expect overnight results: this is a slow-release treatment. For growers who don't fancy tucking into art supplies for that chalk fix, you can also lower acidity in your soil by using agricultural lime or finely crushed eggshells or even oyster shells. They all do the exact same job: boosting alkaline levels for your lavender. You can buy Espoma Organic Garden Lime from Walmart. This granular garden lime is formulated to dissolve quickly into the soil with larger lavender beds.

How to Tell Your Lavender Needs It

Signs of an underperforming lavender plant are most apparent during June and July. Midsummer is the ultimate stress test: the sun is super-hot, and your lavender is likely burning through massive amounts of energy trying to push out those signature summer spikes. If your soil pH is off, this is when things grind to a halt quite noticeably. Telltale signs can involve yellowing on the lower leaves, while the rest of the plant stays a dull gray. If lavender growth has stalled, or you pinch a leaf and barely detect any sort of fragrance, your plant is sending out a definitive SOS.

If any of this describes your lavender right now, don’t panic: this is just a time to stage an intervention. Where the soil has likely become too acidic, this is your cue to take action, However, the maxim is: don’t guess, always test. Don’t just throw chalk into the mix before testing your soil first. Use a good diagnostic tool like the Luster Leaf Rapitest Digital Soil pH Meter from Amazon to get a precise reading of your soil's current acidity levels. It can let you know in minutes whether your lavender is genuinely homesick for an alkaline boost. If it reads below a neutral 7.0, it’s fine to get that chalk working for you.

Are All Lavenders Chalk Addicts?

Before you start sprinkling your new secret weapon, just bear in mind that not all lavenders share the exact same level of chalk dependency. Our yards are usually home to the Big Three lavender types (English, French, or Spanish), each with their own personality. English lavender (L. angustifolia) is a real chalk lover. If you want sweet culinary blooms and potent oils, a high-soil (alkaline) pH is non-negotiable. French (L. dentata) and Spanish (L. stoechas) lavenders are slightly more laid back about a neutral soil, but they still heavily rely on the structural calcium that chalk provides to develop strong, heat-resistant stems.

Plant age matters, too. Tender, young transplants need a gentle hand so you don’t shock their developing roots. Woody, established old-timers will happily welcome chalk to rejuvenate their stale beds. Where you are growing lavender in containers, take note: several commercial potting soils still have peat moss, which is acidic, so check the bag. Container-grown lavenders are susceptible to shifting soil conditions. Potted lavenders in container gardens can run out of steam quickly and almost always require a regular pinch of chalk to keep their root zones sweet.

If you’re looking to extend your lavender family, Southern Living Phenomenal lavender, available from Nature Hills Nursery, handles US humidity and summer stress like a champ. It pairs beautifully with a sweet, chalky soil mix.

How to Add Chalk to Your Soil

Transforming a stick of blackboard chalk into garden gold is simple. But again, please don't just bury a whole stick in the earth. Instead, place a couple of sticks of plain white chalk per plant into a heavy-duty zip-top bag. Use a rolling pin or a pestle and mortar to smash them into a coarse powder. Take your freshly crushed powder and gently sprinkle it around the drip line of your lavender. Using a light hand tool, carefully scratch the chalk into the top two inches (2cm) of the soil, being careful not to dig too deep or disrupt the shallow root system. Dutch-crafted DeWit Forged Hand Cultivator from Amazon is a lovely hand tool for delicate soil scratching.

There is an alternative, especially if you have a container-grown lavender or a plant that is actively sulking in a heatwave: you can use chalk tea. Dissolve your crushed chalk powder directly into a watering can, giving it a vigorous stir, and then pour around the base of the plant. Whichever method you choose, give the area a light, gentle drink of water immediately. This helps to further dissolve the calcium carbonate particles and wash them down to the root zone, where they can get to work. However, when if you think you need faster results, you can use a bit of Jonathan Green Mag-I-Cal Plus for Acidic Soil from Lowe’s for a fast-acting calcium formula that gives instant root relief.

Best Summer Care for Your Lavender

Once your chalk has been watered in, you can step back. In the blazing heat of July and August, watering sobriety is advised. Overwatering in a heatwave can steam the roots and trigger root rot. Instead, if you do wish to give your lavender a little TLC in the weeks after adding your chalk, try a light midsummer haircut. Use sharp bypass pruners to snip away faded flower spikes, cutting to the first two sets of green leaves. Don’t cut into the woody part, which will stunt the plant. Trimming forces the lavender to channel its newly unlocked energy into fresh, fragrant growth.

While feeding is not generally necessary in summer, you can treat your lavender to a teeny splash of organic liquid seaweed or tomato feed. A liquid tonic like Neptune's Harvest Seaweed Fertilizer from Walmart can help to deliver a gentle, potassium-rich multivitamin hit that intensifies flower color. Finally, if you have organic wood mulch packed around your lavender, replace it with a clean ring of light-colored pea gravel such as best-selling Kolor Scape 0.5 cu. ft. Multicolor Pea Gravel from Lowe's. This protects the root crown from rot and reflects the hot summer sunlight back up into the foliage, keeping the base of your plant bone-dry.

Shop Lavender Essentials

Bringing out the best in your lavender doesn't require plenty of pricey extras. However, a few little care treats can make a huge impact on plant health, flower volume, and essential oil production. This curated trio can help you nurture your favorite fragrant shrubs through the summer heat and set them up for a breathtaking extended season of vibrant color and gorgeous fragrance. Chalks away!

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

June is an important time for lavender care. In many growing regions, this is when the fragrant herb starts to bloom. In warmer regions, your lavender should already be actively flowering. This means that maintenance is important for keeping your plants healthy and productive.

Growing lavender isn’t difficult, but it does require timely care, including these June tasks that will ensure healthy growth, continuous flowering, and a tidier appearance.

Let's dig in to the essential care tasks for your lavender plants in June.

1. Start Harvesting

This is one of the best summer chores for lavender. If your plants have begun flowering, you can start harvesting now. English lavender is in peak bloom in many regions in June, while other types are just getting going. Harvesting lavender now—and throughout the summer— allows you to enjoy the flowers and prevents plants from getting leggy.

Use sharp, clean shears or scissors to snip off entire stems in bloom. (Our editors swear by the Felco 2 pruning shears, which can be found on Amazon). Make the cut a few inches below the flower spike, but avoid cutting down to the woody part of the stem. Lavender plants won’t produce new growth from old wood.

Use your harvest as fresh cut stems for arrangements or let the flowers dry for use in potpourri or sachets, soaps and other beauty products, or culinary recipes.

2. Deadhead Spent Flowers

You probably don’t want to harvest all of your lavender flowers. The pretty, fragrant flower spikes that remain on plants are part of their appeal in garden beds and along walkways. However, it is important to deadhead these as they fade.

Deadheading lavender redirects energy away from seed production and back into the plant to keep it healthy and to promote strong growth next season. Depending on where you grow lavender, deadheading may also encourage a second flush of blooms this season.

Snip off flower stalks once they are totally spent and before they start producing seeds. Snip each stem just above the first set of healthy leaves. You can use any flowers that dried on the stalks as long as they haven’t begun to rot. They should still be fragrant.

3. Check Soil Moisture and Water as Needed

Lavender is generally a drought-tolerant plant. In fact, it can suffer if grown in soil that stays consistently moist and will not survive standing water for long. On the other hand, rising temperatures and dry spells in summer can be problematic for any plant.

Finding balance in the soil for lavender is key. Check the soil around your plants periodically. If there is too much moisture, you may need to improve drainage. If the soil is always dry due to weather conditions, water your lavender periodically. Use a moisture meter like this one from Amazon, or check the soil with your finger. Water when the first two inches (5 cm) or deeper is dry.

Use a soaker hose irrigation system to water deeply and avoid getting the leaves wet. Give the roots a good, deep soaking infrequently during dry periods without rain. Water more often for new and young plants to help them establish deep roots. Regardless of the age of the plant, less is always more when it comes to watering lavender.

4. Prune Lightly and Check for Problems

Lavender can get leggy and floppy during its active summer growing season. Pruning lavender can prevent or fix this issue, but keep it light. Save heavy pruning for later in summer or fall. Now is the time to tidy and gently shape your lavender plants to keep them looking shapely and healthy.

When you make pruning cuts on lavender, always keep at least an inch of green growth above the woody part of the stem. New growth rarely comes from the old wood on lavender plants, so if you cut too far, that stem might not recover.

You can double up this chore with another important one: checking for pests and disease. Lavender isn’t as susceptible to these as other plants, but it’s still worth being vigilant. Look for aphids, spittlebugs, root rot, and fungal diseases. Signs of issues include wilting or blackened stems, especially if the soil is moist, yellow foliage, and sticky residue on leaves. Remove diseased parts of the plant and use a spray of water or neem oil to manage minor pest infestations.

5. Manage Weeds and Airflow

Too much moisture is the most common killer of lavender plants. Water that gets trapped close to stems, on leaves, and in the soil can quickly lead to fungal diseases and rot. Manage the soil with appropriate watering.

To keep leaves and stems dry, take steps to ensure good airflow within and between plants. If your lavender plants have grown over the years to the point they crowd each other, do some light trimming to open up spaces between and within them.

It’s also important to keep up with weeds. Not only do they compete with plants for nutrients, but they also reduce airflow and trap moisture when they crowd your lavender plants. Pull weeds that are likely shooting up now that the weather is consistently warm.

June care for lavender plants is basic but essential. Start harvesting flowers, deadhead those that remain in place, prune lightly, water as needed, and keep on top of weeds, pests, and moisture to ensure ongoing healthy growth and a summer of delicate, aromatic lavender flowers.

Basil downy mildew moves fast, and by the time most gardeners notice something is wrong, the plant is usually well into trouble. The good news is that the earliest signs are easy to spot once you know exactly where to look.

One day the basil looks fine. A few days later the leaves are yellowing, the undersides have gone fuzzy and gray, and half the plant is headed for the compost. That’s basil downy mildew, and it has wrecked more summer harvests than almost any other trouble this herb runs into. It’s a fairly recent arrival that spread fast, and most basil growers now run into it sooner or later.

It ranks among the nastier basil diseases because it works so quietly at first, doing a fair impression of a nutrient problem before the damage surfaces. By the time the cause is obvious, the plant is often too far gone to save. That slow start is most of why downy mildew on basil earns its reputation, and why knowing what it is helps.

What Is Basil Downy Mildew​?

Despite the name, the culprit isn’t a fungus. It’s an oomycete, which is a water mold (Peronospora belbaharii) closer to the organism behind potato blight than to anything an ordinary fungicide was built for. Garden-store sprays don’t hit it the way they would a fungus, and that’s much of why it stays so hard to shift. It spreads on windborne spores, so a plant can catch it even in a spotless garden with no obvious source nearby. (Luckily, there are now some downy-mildew resistant varieties of basil like ‘Noga’ from Botanical Interests.)

Downy mildew spores don’t ask for much once they land. Warm days and muggy nights suit them, especially with water sitting on the leaves overnight. From there they germinate, work into the leaf, and infect the plant before the first yellow patch even shows. Sweet basil, the big soft-leaf type most people grow for pesto, takes the worst of it. The spicier small-leaf and citrus-scented basils shrug it off a bit better, though none are truly safe. Spores ride along on seed, too, so even a clean start from a fresh packet isn’t a guarantee you’ve dodged it.

Catching Basil Downy Mildew Early

The first signs don’t usually look like a disease. Leaves begin to yellow, usually in patches fenced in by the veins, so the discoloration looks blocky and angular rather than spreading evenly across the leaf. A lot of growers take this for a feeding issue and reach for fertilizer, which does nothing here except burn a few days the plant can’t spare.

Flip an affected leaf over and look hard at the underside. There’s a dusty gray-purple coating down there, the sort of thing you’d swipe at assuming it was soil splash, except it doesn’t rub away. That coating is the pathogen making its spores, and a plant at that point is already dusting the air around it with the next round of infection. Turn a few leaves over twice a week through warm, humid weather. It’s the one check that actually buys you any time.

Treating a Basil Downy Mildew Infection

Here’s the blunt version: once downy mildew has a real grip, the plant isn’t going to recover. No home spray reverses an active infection. What you can do is slow it and rescue a harvest. Strip off affected leaves and pull hard-hit plants. Bag that debris rather than composting it, since the spores carry over, and get whatever is left drier and airier; the disease stalls once leaves stop staying wet.

Commercial products work better as shields than cures. Biofungicides built around beneficial bacteria, the Bacillus subtilis sprays like this from Amazon sold for vegetable patches, can hold the disease off plants that aren’t infected yet, applied before trouble starts. Copper-based fungicides like this from Amazon do something too, but keep expectations low; the effect on a water mold is modest, and rain rinses it off.

None of it brings back a plant already furred over with spores. Get the first spray on before symptoms, or save your money.

Keeping Downy Mildew off Your Basil

Once it shows up in your area, it’s not a matter of if—it’s when, and airflow is what decides how bad it gets. Prevention mostly comes down to one idea: take away the damp, stagnant air the disease feeds on. Spacing is where a lot of people slip up, crowding basil when it wants room to breathe. Give each plant more room than feels necessary and the air keeps moving.

Watering basil matters, too. Aim for the base, do it in the morning, and the leaves dry off over the day. The harder case is indoors or under glass, where the air just hangs. That’s where a small oscillating fan from Amazon earns its keep, pushing a breeze across the foliage to keep surfaces dry.

The easiest defense against downy mildew is actually to choose a variety of basil that is mildew resistant! A lot of sweet basils exist now because breeders set out to beat this thing. A downy mildew-resistant basil variety, like ‘Noga’ from Botanical Interests, paired with good airflow is about as safe as basil gets.

The rest is small stuff that stacks up. Choose healthy transplants and look them over first, since it rides in on infected starts as readily as on the wind. And keep cutting. Basil that gets picked often stays open and airy, and an open plant makes a frustrating target for something that needs everything damp and still.

The type of lavender tea that you might be aware of is drinkable, refreshing, and well documented for calming frayed human nerves. But there is another type of lavender tea that can give some of your most beloved plants the ultimate pick-me-up. It comes from the clippings of lavender prunings you’ll be starting to make in June. So before you head to the compost pile to dump armfuls of aromatic stalks, read this.

It turns out the compounds that make lavender so insect-resistant and structurally resilient are really useful to plants, too. They can be extracted to form a defensive shield for key backyard favorites. When their fresh stems and spent blooms are steeped in water, they release water-soluble elements, including tannins and polyphenols, which carry mild antifungal and pest-deterrent properties. So why should the compost heap get all the benefit of that deal?

You can make a lavender tea or tonic that can be used as a foliar spray in your yard, in much the same way as you apply many other types of fertilizer. Of course, this herbal steep can’t fully replace a balanced soil approach to plant care. But the unique blend of antifungal and pest-deterrent elements you find in lavender prunings simply don’t come with most other conventional sprays and applications. So why not take advantage of this easy lavender tonic?

Why Lavender Tea Plant Tonics Work

The main compound you need to know about for this lavender tonic is linalool. This is what produces that crisp, recognizable fragrance we love. In the insect world, it also functions as a warning sign. In terms of lavender tea benefits, a cold water steep won’t produce the same clout that concentrated oils achieve, but soft-bodied pests like aphids and whitefly treat even a dilute chemical signal as a suggestion to look elsewhere. It’s about natural displacement rather than chemical destruction, which is exactly what we want for sustainable, preventative backyard maintenance.

Beyond the insect-repelling powers of linalool, rich stores of plant tannins handle the defensive antifungal side of the equation. Lavender is reasonably tannin-rich, and those tannins have recognized antifungal properties. When you spray this mixture over clean foliage, it can thwart devastating fungal issues like powdery mildew. Another of your great lavender tea uses involves the trace amounts of potassium that will leach into the tonic. When absorbed by target plants, potassium helps to fortify plant cell walls, making the tissue tougher for pests to pierce.

Applied before problems appear, the combination gives treated plants a strong head start. Used as a foliar spray, the antifungal compounds can limit fungal development. So if you grow lavender and you have more June trimmings than you know what to do with, this lavender tonic is a win-win. If you’re worried about early signs of pests on plants like roses, grab a loupe or magnifying glass. You can buy XYK’s 40X Jeweler's Loupe from Amazon to steal a closer look before making our tonic.

Best Lavender Varieties to Use

Not all lavender varieties are made the same way, and understanding the distinct profiles can be helpful. If you fancy a potent, high-vitality garden tonic, then true English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is ideal. Thriving in USDA hardiness zones 5-9, these varieties are packed with a clean, concentrated volume of linalool and polyphenols. Cultivars like classic 'Munstead' or robust 'Hidcote' yield a potent tea from mid-season trimmings. If you’d like to add to your lavender collection, you can buy Munstead Live Plants from Burpee for a reliable, oil-rich plant tonic source.

Then there are massive hybrid lavandins (Lavandula x intermedia), like the popular 'Phenomenal' or 'Grosso' varieties. These gorgeous, long-stemmed beasts love the heat and offer a profusion of stalks. Their oils lean much heavier into camphorous notes. While this makes them slightly less sweet to our noses, that high-camphor punch makes them perfect if your main garden headache is repelling soft-bodied insects. For a heavy-blooming hero, buy Phenomenal Live Shrubs from Nature Hills.

Avoid using French or Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas) for brewing tea. Their ruffled blooms look stunning, but their resinous chemical composition is less effective in a simple, cold-water backyard bucket setup like this one. So now we know about the benefits of lavender tea, it’s time to crack on with making some…

Making Your Lavender Tonic

The best time to gather your raw ingredients is during June, as we enter the summer pruning and deadheading window for lavender. Collect a mix of spent flower spikes, tender green stems, and small leafy debris from shaping plants. Just exclude woody old growth or any parts showing signs of disease. A rough working ratio is a loosely packed double-handful of freshly chopped garden material for every one gallon (3.8L) of clean water. If you’re after precision snips or shears for harvesting, Corona Forged Steel ClassicCUT Bypass Pruners from Amazon make clean cuts.

Place your chopped prunings into a clean container and submerge in cool or ambient room-temperature water. Don’t use hot water, which drives off the volatile linalool oils faster than they can steep out. Pour into a bucket or jar and cover with water, then stir. Place in a cool spot out of direct sun. A daily stir can help to pull out more water-soluble tannins. When the time is up, strain through a fine mesh filter, such as Reusable Fine Mesh Straining Bags from Walmart. The resulting tonic should be amber or pale-straw in color. Aim to use it within a week, before it begins to sour.

Using Your Lavender Tonic

Dilute your fresh lavender tonic before using it. Go for a straightforward 1:1 ratio with clean, fresh water for foliar use. Some gardeners skip the dilution for a more concentrated application, but starting diluted is safer for sensitive plants and young, tender leaves. A standard pressure sprayer is fine for foliar sprays, as long as it gives you a fine mist that coats each leaf smoothly. If you’re after a good model, Chaplin’s 1-Gallon Pump Sprayer from Amazon gives excellent uniform coverage.

Apply your foliar spray early in the morning on a dry, calm day. This schedule gives the lavender wash plenty of time to dry before nightfall. Spraying late in the evening leaves foliage wet and cold overnight, which creates the exact stagnant environment where fungal diseases like black spot can thrive. Every 2 weeks through summer is a workable cadence for established plantings. For new transplants, skip the spray and instead apply a diluted drench at the root zone, at least until plants have settled.

Plants That Love It – and That Don't!

So which plants are most likely to benefit from this lavender tonic? Try to target plants that are prone to seasonal pest invasions and fungal leaf spots. Ornamental garden roses are perfect candidates for your lavender tonic. Given their soft, succulent spring growth and high susceptibility to powdery mildew and aphids, they will really appreciate a bi-weekly preventative coating. Don’t forget to deep-feed roses with a balanced granular feed, too, though. A good option is Espoma Organic Rose-Tone Plant Food, available from Home Depot, for robust root nutrition.

Perennials like garden phlox, stately delphiniums and colorful zinnias also benefit, as they are magnets for midsummer fungal leaf infections. And if you grow vegetables, treating heavy-feeding crops like tomatoes and squash will help to keep whitefly numbers down without introducing harsh synthetics around edible harvests.

Avoid drought-loving plants like stonecrops (sedum) and soft succulents. Gray-leafed Mediterranean herbs like rosemary or sage also loathe having their foliage frequently wetted. Also avoid spraying plants with fuzzy or velvety leaf surfaces, such as lamb's ear or alpine woolly thyme, as the extra trapped moisture can leave plants vulnerable to rot. And don’t spray blooming plants where beneficial predatory insects or native pollinators are working. Even natural bug deterrents can disrupt foraging patterns.

What to Expect from this Tonic

The results of using this lavender tonic tend to be cumulative rather than dramatic. A few applications over a few weeks typically push soft-bodied pest numbers down rather than eliminating them outright, but in most cases that’s enough to keep things in check. You should notice a steady downward trend in visible numbers. The bugs simply find the treated leaves deeply unappealing and quietly relocate elsewhere, allowing your plants to outgrow any initial, early-season damage.

The long-term antifungal benefits are harder to track directly, because success is defined by an absence of symptoms. By late August, your treated perennials will be clean, green, and vibrant, while untreated neighbors will likely be showing signs of mildew. Remember to show your lavender some love, with a light top-dressing of organic mulch and a light feeding of a balanced feed, You can buy Dr Earth Premium Gold All Purpose Fertilizer from Amazon to keep your hard-working lavender vibrant, healthy, and pushing out oil-rich stems for many summers to come.

Shop Lavender Tonic Essentials

Making this useful lavender tonic doesn't require a massive financial investment or a shed full of complicated equipment. Just a few well designed, hard working items are all you need to prepare, store, and apply this super-useful plant tonic. This trip of lavender tea goodies will help you cleanly harvest your materials and safely deliver every drop of your homemade pest-busting tonic where your garden needs it most.

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Lavender deserves a place in every garden, and this easy addition will make your plant feel more at home and produce abundant flowers and more of that exquisite fragrance. It takes minutes to do and works however you grow lavender, whether that's in a pot, a raised bed or in the ground, for all lavender varieties and types.

This perfumed perennial herb, loved for its tall spikes of purple flowers and silvery evergreen foliage, is native to the drier, warmer regions of the Mediterranean basin. From southern Europe to north Africa, western Asia and India, lavender thrives in the full sun and well-drained soil of harsh mountainous and coastal environments and has evolved to flourish with little in the way of water or nutrients.

Now, does this habitat sound like the conditions you’re raising your lavender in? Because if you’re growing Lavandula in a rich potting mix or compost-improved soil and feeding it in the hope of growing a bigger plant and more flowers, you’re missing a trick. Because the key to success with lavender is to mimic the conditions it naturally grows in, which is easily done with a mulch of sand and gravel.

June is lavender's primary growing month, when it's forming lots of flowerbuds so, make the switch now to give your plant the conditions it craves, and you'll see fast results.

How to Mulch Lavender

Whether your lavender is in a planter or in the ground, top-dress the surrounding soil with a 1-2 inch layer of coarse sand and gravel. Use a ratio of three parts gravel to one part sand.

This helps the plant in multiple ways:

• The coarse sand naturally moves down into the soil and gradually improves drainage.
• The gravel improves airflow around the base of the plant and keeps the growing environment drier.
• The gravel also reflects sunlight onto the plant, and retains warmth.
• Weeds are suppressed, as with any mulch.

Finer gravel such as pea gravel like this from Amazon brings best results, though you can use use any type of gravel you already have. It’s important to use coarse sand, though, and preferably sand intended for horticultural use like this from Amazon. Don’t use fine play sand as it can compact and clump together when wet, defeating the purpose of your dry mulch.

If your lavender is currently mulched with organic matter such as bark chips, rake this layer off the soil surface first. An organic mulch works in the opposite way to a gravel mulch, holding moisture around the plant – leading to conditions that lavender hates, and even rotting stems and roots.

Leave a 3-inch gap all around the plant’s core woody stems, and extend the mulch past its outer extremities, or to the pot rim. The further you extend the mulch, the drier and warmer a microclimate you'll create. Visit any lavender field or farm and you'll see how it's done, and how effective this dry mulch is.

What Else You Can Do to Help Lavender Thrive

Giving your lavender plant a sand and gravel mulch is the very best thing you can do to help it thrive. But there are a number of other ways to foster conditions that your plant will flourish in.

1. Skip the fertilizer

For a start, don’t feed lavender plants. Lavender thrives in poor, nutrient-deficient soils and over-fertilizing it stresses the plant, results in weak, floppy growth and can significantly reduce the number of flowers produced. Even in a container, where the plant has limited access to nutrients, it’s better to refresh the top layer of potting mix every year rather than apply fertilizer.

2. Don’t Overwater

While lavender plants should be regularly watered when first planted, once they’ve had a chance to grow their roots down into the ground to source their own moisture supply, gradually reduce how often you irrigate. Depending on your USDA zone, lavender plants will happily rely on rainwater for most of the year, and you need only water once every couple or weeks through prolonged dry spells of weather. Don’t worry if your lavender is planted among perennials that need watering more often: as long as your soil drains well (and your new sand and gravel mulch will aid good drainage), your plant will be fine.

3. Improve Drainage

Lavender planted in pots needs watering more often, but only when the top couple of inches of potting soil are dry. What containerized lavender plants really need is great drainage. Improve it by drilling extra drainage holes into the pot base, moving your plant into a porous terracotta pot, or raising the pot up on risers so roots don't sit in a puddle of water after heavy rain.

Shop Pot Risers

4. Count the Sunshine Hours

For maximum production of that fabulously fragranced oil, lavender needs at least six hours of sunshine a day through spring and summer. Check just how much your plant gets as the season progresses, and make sure it’s not getting shaded out as its neighbors grow.

5. Prune twice a year

A trim in early spring, and again once it’s finished flowering, will encourage healthy, bushy growth. Pruning lavender is an easy job. Make the spring trim light, just to tidy up your plant after winter, and do any shaping in late summer. Then, as long as you leave at least a half-inch of this summer’s growth (you’ll be able to see the difference between this year’s fresh growth and the older, darker, woodier growth), cut off as much as you want to, depending on whether you want to keep your plant compact or let it grow bigger. Leaving this half-inch safety margin means you’ll never cut into the old growth, which the plant may struggle to resprout from.

Lavender’s ability to adapt to diverse environments is one of the reasons why it’s been cultivated for so many centuries, across the globe, so it likely already grows pretty well in your garden, whatever conditions you’ve given it. But just wait till you make your lavender feel properly at home with a sand and gravel mulch: your plant will flourish, and your reward will be more of its glorious flowers and gorgeous fragrance.

Garden paths are fundamentally utilitarian, designed to get us from A to B without trampling our favorite borders. Yet, all too often, they can be a source of frustration, seeming to become magnets for stubborn weeds. We can fight a never-ending battle with paving cracks, constantly scraping out dirt, or filling gaps with sterile gravel and sand. But your walkways hold untapped design potential, waiting to be transformed from cold, stone channels into dynamic, living expressions of color and fragrance.

If you feel like swapping out heavy weeding for a sensory-rich herb path, then you’ll love these resilient plants. By turning ordinary paths into living carpets of sturdy, creeping herbs, you create a garden path that is both lovely and transformative. These low-growing groundcovers are capable of wafting sweet vanilla, crisp mint, or warm apple scent into the air every time you take a step. You can use them to soften hard edges, inject character, and suppress opportunistic weeds with ease.

The true wonder of an herbal path is its interactive nature. Unlike delicate ornamental flowers that must be admired from a distance, these rugged herbs are built for impact – indeed, the more you step on them, the better they smell. So, instead of fighting weeds or trying to grow grass in the cracks, why not plant these pathway herbs to release waves of scent with every step? Meet the walkable herbs that help you banish weeds and turn a simple stroll into a multi-sensory experience.

Set-and-Forget Plants for a Herb Path

With garden paths, there’s always the question of what to do with the gaps between stones or pavers. You can constantly spray or pull weeds, try to grow grass where it doesn’t really want to be, or just fill the spaces with gravel or sand. But fragrant herbs that act like sturdy groundcovers give you an easy win, and they aren’t tricky to introduce or maintain.

Transforming a stone walkway into a sensory-rich herbal path begins with assessing your structure. Whether you are dealing with a pre-existing flagstone walkway or concrete pavers, or constructing a new stepping-stone trail over gravel and sand, these DIY garden path herbs thrive in microclimates where traditional turf grass fails. The stone absorbs daytime solar heat, radiating it back down into the root zones, while the narrow gaps minimize moisture evaporation.

To set these living groundcovers up in USDA hardiness zones 4-9, just make sure those gaps and cracks are good for planting. Before inserting plugs, remove existing weeds, roots, and debris from the joints to a depth of 3-4 inches (8-10cm). Where you can, add a light gritty soil blend, such as a mix of organic compost and sharp sand, fine gravel or perlite, such as Espoma Organic Perlite from Amazon, to ensure ideal drainage within tight paving gaps and cracks ahead of planting and sowing.

Don’t be afraid to play with layouts and herbal combinations. You can lean into a manicured, modern minimalist style by planting a single uniform species around geometric pavers, or embrace an organic cottagecore vibe by intermingling several contrasting textures and tones. Small cell plugs are easier to wedge snugly into tight paving joints. Water deeply until plant roots anchor firmly beneath the heavy pavers and they are ready to withstand your very regular visits.

1. Woolly Thyme

Many types of thyme grow low and are sturdy, but woolly thyme (Thymus pseudolanuginosus) is ideal for a sturdy pathway herb. It gets its name from the dense silvery growth that creates the effect of a woolly carpet or rug. Its scent is earthy and herbal, but not as strong as culinary thyme, and the small pink flowers will attract pollinators. It grows a couple of inches (5cm) high and tolerates dry, rocky soil, drought and (crucially) foot traffic. It just needs good drainage and full sun.

Plant woolly thyme in south- or west-facing pathways that receive a minimum of 6-8 hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight daily. For an exquisite visual companion planting strategy, nestle woolly thyme alongside contrasting stonecrops (sedum), or aubrietia along the lower-traffic perimeters of your walkway, to create a stunning multi-textured mosaic. Buy Perennial Farm Marketplace’s Woolly Thyme Plants from Amazon to quickly fill in paving seams and bring a cloud of soft summer blooms pollinators love.

2. Corsican Mint

Like woolly thyme, Corsican mint (Mentha requienii) grows densely and very low to the ground, often only an inch (2.5cm) tall. This mint has a strong and sweet fragrance that intensifies in the sun and whenever the leaves are crushed underfoot. However, it is not as invasive as other types of mint. It will spread readily between pathway pavers, but it won’t take over your garden or lawn. It just needs soil that retains some moisture and a little bit of shade, especially on hot afternoons.

Corsican mint thrives in damp, partially shaded, morning-sun paths. However, don't plant in very heavy areas of foot traffic. Save this fragrant herb for secondary garden paths where light steps will gently release its signature crème-de-menthe aroma. It pairs beautifully with minor bulbs like dwarf iris or miniature hostas, planted just off pathway edges, creating a soft, cohesive transition. You can buy Corsican Mint Seeds from Eden Brothers for quick developing rugs of crisp, fresh green scent.

3. Sweet Woodruff

For shady pathways, try sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum). As the name suggests, this low-growing herb has a delightful aroma reminiscent of vanilla as well as hay (which explains its other name of sweet scented straw). Sweet woodruff also offers pretty leaves and delicate white flowers in spring. Hardy in zones 4-8, it’s a great plant for partial or full shade. It grows slightly taller than thyme or mint, maturing at 6-10 inches (15-25cm) high when left undisturbed, but its pliable stems readily compress underfoot without snapping or sustaining permanent damage.

Plant sweet woodruff in paths flanked by mature trees or along the north-facing sides of buildings where shade is persistent. To maximize its beauty, plant it in wide, spacious flagstone joints alongside complementary shade lovers like jewel-toned caladiums or delicate Japanese painted ferns for a luminous, light-reflecting woodland walkway. You can buy Sweet Woodruff Plants from Amazon.

4. Roman Chamomile

Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) is a delicately apple-scented herb often used for a calming tea. While some types grow tall, Roman chamomile grows lower and is often used as a groundcover and even a turf substitute, hence its other name of lawn chamomile. It thrives in zones 4-9 and grows best in sun-drenched pathways. The soil should drain well, and occasional pruning will keep plants full and dense. Just don't overfertilize with high-nitrogen feeds, as this encourages weak, floppy growth.

This herb works brilliantly alongside low-growing dwarf oregano (next on our list), creating a tough, drought-defying pathway matrix. You can buy Roman Chamomile Seeds from Eden Brothers for pretty daisy swathes. Alternatively, to maintain a neat profile, try non-flowering 'Treneague' which stays prostrate. This is a lovely pathway plant with a sweet apple aroma, keeping paving joints tightly knit and weed-free.

5. Dwarf Oregano

Dwarf oregano (Origanum vulgare 'Compactum') is a low-growing aromatic herb that is drought-tolerant and hardy in zones 5-9. You just need to grow it in full sun and soil that drains well. This oregano variety is one of the toughest, most tolerant herbal groundcovers available. Its woody, resilient root system binds tightly to the gravelly sub-base beneath heavy paving stones, serving as an exceptional structural stabilizer that actively blocks invasive weeds from gaining a foothold.

Allow the soil around your dwarf oregano to dry out between watering sessions. It prefers mimicking the arid slopes of its native Mediterranean habitat, so don't plant it in sunken, low-lying areas of the garden where stormwater pools and stands. Plant alongside woolly thyme or purple rock cress for a durable walkway with multi-season interest. You can buy Dwarf Greek Oregano 'Compactum' Plants from Walmart.

Make the Most of Your Herbal Path

These pathway heroes are very easy to maintain, and in many respects it is possible to set and forget your herbs. However, to keep them going year after year, sensible watering is key, especially in dry spells. Give them infrequent but deep soaking sessions late in the evening. This encourages roots to push down beneath the shield of the pavers, rather than staying shallow and vulnerable near hot stone surfaces.

Regular trimming also preserves density and resilience. Run a lightweight lawnmower over established patches of chamomile or thyme once a year. Do this in late summer to stimulate fresh, tight growth. And keep an eye on foot traffic during that first year of planting. Consider placing your toughest characters, like dwarf oregano and woolly thyme, directly in the primary centerline cracks of a path, while reserving softer, moisture-loving choices, like Corsican mint, for the outer margins.

Shop Herb Path Superheroes

Your fragrant walkway is only a few seeds or nursery plants away. These charming low-profile groundcovers fit neatly into paving gaps and cracks, bringing instant texture, vibrant color contrasts, and rich aromatic appeal. Get ready to watch your garden walkways transform into weed-suppressing wonder trails that release incredible scent with every step.

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

An herb garden is a simple way to grow attractive plants you can also use in the kitchen. While many gardeners plant herbs in beds, some varieties actually perform better in pots, where their growth is easier to manage.

By growing herbs in containers, you can make the most of limited space – whether that’s a small yard, patio, or windowsill – while keeping conditions like soil, drainage, and sunlight in check. You’ll also have better control over how plants spread, making container gardening an easy, low-maintenance option that’s ideal for beginners.

Most herbs are straightforward to grow, but how you start them can make a difference – some are quick and reliable from seed, while others establish more easily when bought as young plants.

How to Grow Herbs in Containers

While each type of herb has one or two unique needs, there are some basic rules to follow:

• Container. First, start with the right container. Different materials have their pros and cons, but what really matters is drainage. Make sure whatever pot you choose has drainage holes in the bottom.
• Potting Mix. Use a sterile, high-quality potting mix. Do not be tempted to simply dig dirt out of your garden. Drainage is so important in container growing. You need a light mix that doesn’t compact or hold on to water.
• Spacing. Whether you start herbs from seeds or use transplants, follow spacing suggestions. Overcrowding leads to disease.
• Water and Light. Water and light needs vary, but most herbs need full sun. Some tolerate dry soil better than others. All should be watered regularly and never allowed to dry out completely or get soggy or waterlogged.

Container Herb Essentials

The Best Herbs for Easy Container Growing

These six herbs will actually perform better in a pot than in the ground, but before planting, check that they are compatible with your USDA hardiness zone. If not, you can always grow outdoors in summer and move indoors over winter. Together, they offer a versatile, kitchen-ready mix that works across a wide range of cuisines.

1. Mint

Mint is a delightful culinary herb with many uses, both fresh and dried. It’s tolerant of neglect and hard to kill. This makes mint incredibly easy to grow, but also a menace in the garden, as it spreads very aggressively by runners. Planting mint in the ground can lead to a quick takeover of beds and even lawns.

Instead, grow mint in pots. This keeps the rapidly spreading plants contained and allows you to grow them on patios, balconies, and porches. It's much quicker to start with plants, like this Strawberry mint from Burpee, which is perfect for dropping into cocktails and sprinkling over ice cream.

Once your mint plant is four to six inches (10 to 15 cm) tall, start harvesting it regularly by pinching off stems just above nodes. This will give you a regular harvest and encourage branching and dense growth. Mint is hardy in zones 3 through 11.

2. Basil

Basil is a culinary staple. In the garden, it requires warm weather and soil that tends towards dry. Soggy soil can kill a basil plant quickly. It’s this factor that makes container growing ideal for basil. It gives you better control over soil moisture and drainage.

Basil is only hardy in zones 10 through 11, but it grows fast as a summer annual. You’ll have time to grow several rounds of basil plants by succession planting seeds every couple of weeks. This basil selection from Seed Needs via Amazon has eight aromatic varieties to suit every cuisine.

You can harvest basil leaves by pinching as soon as the plant has several sets of mature leaves. Pinch off flowers as soon as you see them appear to keep the leaves fresh and tasty.

3. Rosemary

This Mediterranean herb needs dry soil to thrive. Like basil, rosemary will deteriorate rapidly in soggy, poorly draining soil. It will thrive in a large container with a light potting mix and excellent drainage. By growing rosemary in a pot, you can be sure you don’t overwater the plant and risk getting its roots soggy.

It's best to start with plants, as it takes a while to grow from seed. This Arp rosemary from Burpee is one of the most fragrant varieties going.

You can start snipping off stems once the plant is large and full. Choose newer growth for cooking, but remove any type of growth to use as seasonal décor and fragrance.

Rosemary is hardy in zones 8 through 11. If you live in a colder climate, bring your pot in for winter and enjoy this woody shrub year-round.

4. Thyme

Thyme can be tricky to grow in the ground if you don’t get the soil or water right. Don’t even attempt it if your garden soil is heavy or clay-based. Instead, grow thyme in pots. As with rosemary, use a light mix and ensure your pot drains very well.

Because it grows low, thyme can be grown with taller herbs in the same container, as long as they have similar growing conditions. It takes a while to start from seed, so buy young plants, like this Summer thyme from Plant Addicts, or try a more unusual variety like lemon thyme.

Once established, start trimming off stems of thyme to use the tasty leaves in the kitchen. Thyme’s hardiness varies depending on the type and includes zones 4 through 10.

5. Parsley

This versatile kitchen herb isn’t hard to grow, but it can be a little particular about soil and moisture. By growing parsley in a pot, you have better control over these factors. Use a rich soil that stays consistently moist but not soggy. Parsley is hardy in zones 4 through 9, so you can keep it outdoors in winter or bring it in, depending on your region.

The main choice of parsley is between curly and flat leaf – you can get the best of both worlds with this twin pack of seeds from Sow Right Seeds on Amazon.

To harvest parsley, snip off outer stems at the base. Leave the inner stems intact so that the plant keeps producing new growth. These Fiskars' Pruning Scissors have microtips for better precision when cutting. Do harvest regularly, though, as this will promote more new growth.

6. Chives

Chives have a mild onion flavor that complements many savory dishes when snipped fresh from a kitchen garden. Suitable for zones 3 through 9, this tasty herb is also very appropriate for containers, with its tidy, clump-forming growth.

You can grow potted chives indoors or outside. This twin pack of common and garlic chive seeds from Amazon is all you need to get started. When grown outside, the edible purple flowers will attract pollinators.

To harvest chives, snip stems an inch or two (2.5 to 5.0 cm) from the base. Harvest regularly to encourage more growth.

Lavender is a popular perennial herb, beloved for its delicate purple flowers and intoxicating scent. It’s easy to grow, too, and very forgiving, thriving even in poor soil and with minimal moisture. Although lavender tolerates some neglect, you’ll get the most out of your plants with thoughtful spring care.

Lavender care in April is all about helping your plants wake up from winter dormancy and taking steps to ensure they have a great start to the growing season. From pruning to weeding and soil maintenance, now is the time to pamper your lavender. The effort you put in now will result in shapely, dense growth and an abundance of blooms later.

1. Clean up Lavender Beds and Pots

All plants benefit from a spring cleaning. Tackle this chore in April for lavender to keep beds tidy and to minimize the risk that fungal spores hiding in debris will infect your plants. Clear away any old plant material that has accumulated around the bases of the lavender plants. This includes dead growth, leaves, twigs, stems, and old decaying mulch.

Mulching can be useful for protecting lavender roots and crowns from cold in winter, especially in colder climates. But any mulch that holds in moisture can cause issues during the growing season. Pull away protective winter mulch to let the plants get some air and dry out. You can add inorganic mulch around plants to help promote drainage. Use gravel or crushed stones for this purpose, like this pea gravel from Walmart.

2. Spring Pruning

Lavender doesn’t strictly need to be pruned every spring. The plants grow strong and sturdy even in the absence of regular pruning. However, a careful April trim will benefit the plants and help them look tidier and grow less woody and leggy. Do this task right, and you’ll also get more flowers in summer.

The most important thing to remember when pruning lavender in April is: easy does it. April is the time for light trimming, not a heavy pruning session. Remove any stems that look like they got damaged over the winter. Then, trim lightly to shape each plant into a rounded mound. Avoid cutting into the woody growth, which won’t regenerate. Instead, make cuts just above new spring growth on fresher stems.

This light trimming session promotes branching, so you’ll get denser, fuller growth throughout the summer. Extra branches also mean more flowers. If you need some new pruners, then Fiskars' Bypass Pruners are highly rated and excellent value for money.

3. Make Soil Amendments as Needed

April is a good time to ensure your lavender plants are growing in appropriate soil conditions. Lavender grows best in dry soil. Drainage is essential, as soggy roots are the number one killer of lavender plants. Use this time to check your plants for any signs that the soil is retaining too much water:

• Soil that stays wet for a while after snow melt or rain
• Yellowing leaves
• Wilted or limp growth
• Signs of rot in roots, including soggy, mushy, or stinky roots

If you are concerned about moisture, spend some time amending the soil to improve drainage. You can gently dig around the plants to remove some of the heavy soil and to mix in grit, sand, or small gravel.

You might also be tempted to add compost or fertilizer in April, which is beneficial for many plants waking up from winter sleep. This is not the case for lavender. It actually grows better in poor soil. Fertilizer now will promote a lot of leafy growth, but this can hinder flower growth later.

4. Start Weeding

Weeds are inevitable, no matter what you do to try to prevent their growth. Some gravel or stone mulch will help keep them down, but expect weeds to grow regardless. Early management of weeds is essential for keeping them under control. An abundance of weeds is a messy look, but it’s also a situation that can take moisture and nutrients away from your garden plants, compromising their growth and health. Weeds can also harbor and spread disease and pests.

April is an ideal time to start weeding. It can be an onerous chore, but starting now means they’re easier to pull and they won’t fill in so much of the space later. Focus on pulling weeds from the root zones of your lavender plants, but do so gently and carefully, avoiding damaging the lavender’s shallow roots. Grandpa's Weeder makes it easy to target each weed, without having to bend down.

5. Propagate for More Lavender

All of the above steps will help you enjoy more flowers on your existing lavender plants, but another way to get more is to propagate. Spring is the best time to take softwood cuttings. With a little patience, you’ll have new lavender plants at no extra cost.

Take cuttings of soft stems, not the woody stems. Cuttings should be at least three inches (7.5 cm) long. Remove the bottom leaves and put the cut end into moist potting medium. While not strictly necessary, dipping the cut end in rooting hormone first will promote faster root growth – like this Garden Safe TakeRoot.

Cover the cutting with plastic and set it in a warm area with bright, indirect light. Once you have several roots growing, remove the plastic and move the pot to a sunnier location. After a few weeks, it should be ready to be transplanted outside. Pot the cuttings on in this Soil Sunrise Lavender Potting Soil Mix.

Lavender April Essentials

Lavender is known for thriving on neglect, but the plants do welcome intentional and thoughtful care in April to support breaking winter dormancy and starting healthy, new growth. A little attention in April goes a long way toward a summer full of fragrant blooms.

If there were an award for “easiest herb to grow,” chives might just win it. They’re incredibly cold hardy perennials, and will pop up reliably every spring. I was given a pot of them years ago by a neighbor and they’re still growing, right where I set them down and continue to neglect them.

They’re a culinary herb, usually added fresh as garnish. (No baked potato bar would be complete without them). They’re beloved for their fresh, oniony flavor and bright color that comes to the rescue when a dish is in need of a little something green.

They’re also highly ornamental, producing the lollipop-esque pompom flowers all alliums share. Though they might not be the most versatile for cooking, they’re some of the most common herbs grown by gardeners due to their reliability and showy flowers. Here we’ll cover everything there is to know about growing chives.

Quick Facts about Chives

Common vs. Garlic Chives

When people talk about chives, they could be talking about either of two distinct species. There are common chives (Allium schoenoprasum), which have hollow, tube-like leaves and edible purple pom-pom flowers. They have a mild, delicate onion flavor.

Then there are garlic chives (Allium tuberosum), also known as Chinese or Asian chives. These have flat, solid leaves and white, star-shaped flowers. As the name suggests, they have a subtle garlic punch and bloom later in the summer (August/September) than common chives.

We’re going to be talking here about common chives, the purple headed spring bloomers.

Growing Chives from Seed

It’s very easy to start chives from seed, both indoors and outdoors.

Indoors

1. Start 6-8 weeks before the last frost.
2. Plant chive seeds about 1/4 inch (6 mm) deep in the soil.
3. Water well.
4. Place the pot in a dark spot in temperatures 60 to 70 F (15-21 C).
5. When the seeds sprout, move them into the light.
6. When seedlings reach 6 inches (15 cm), you can transplant them to the garden.

Outdoors

1. Wait until after the last frost.
2. Plant chive seeds about 1/4 inch (6 mm) deep in the soil.
3. Water well.
4. The seeds may take a bit longer to germinate than indoors, because the soil needs time to warm up.

How to Grow Chives from Divisions

While seed propagation is possible, the most common way to grow chives is to start from divisions. In other words, you have to separate an older plant into multiple smaller plants.

Chives are victims of their own success, growing in dense clumps that have to be separated every three to four years to prevent overcrowding. The upshot is, you get more plants out of it.

1. In early spring or mid fall, find an established clump of chives.
2. Gently dig up the entire clump and pull off a smaller clump that contains 5-10 bulbs.
3. Repeat this as many times as you want or can.
4. Replant the smaller clumps at least 8-10 inches apart, or wherever you want more chives to take hold.

Growing Chives Indoors

There’s no rule that says you can’t grow chives indoors. In fact, chives are very well suited to indoor life, and usually perform the best of all the plants in an indoor herb garden. Grow indoor chives in a pot that drains well and is full of good potting soil. Place the pot in bright light. Harvest them just as you would outside.

Harvesting Chives

This of course brings us to harvesting chives. Wait until the plant is at least a foot (0.3 m) tall, then using a pair of shears, feel free to snip away as much as you need. You can cut back half of the plant’s growth without hurting it – it’ll grow right back. I personally have never found myself able to eat chives faster than they grow. I usually stop trying and just let them look pretty.

Speaking of which, those pretty purple flowers are edible as well. You can crumble them over a dish for a surprising purple garnish.

Chives in Winter

Can chives grow in winter? Unlike many herbs, chives actually benefit from a period of cold. It triggers their natural dormancy cycle and helps them grow stronger in the spring. That being said, they will die back and won’t be any good for harvesting.

If you want to harvest chives through the winter, there is a way.

1. Leave them outdoors for the first few frosts – this will trigger dormancy.
2. Dig up a clump and pot it.
3. Bring the pot indoors and put it on a bright windowsill.

The dormant period followed by warmth will trick the plant into thinking it’s spring, and you’ll get a fresh winter harvest.

Essentials for Growing Chives

Spring is full of lovely things, with tulips and bleeding hearts bursting into life, birds darting around feeders, and sleepy bumblebees supping from bee cups. But with all the loveliness comes a guest we don’t want to see, and that’s the tick. Even writing that word makes me feel unsettled.

Did you know a single female tick can lay between 3,000-5,000 eggs in leaf litter? Or that nearly 476,000 Americans are diagnosed with Lyme disease every year? It’s a sobering reality that has the potential to cast a shadow over these first few weeks of spring – especially because it’s so hard to spot those poppyseed pests. For sure, the arrival of the weeding season brings with it the need to check your ankles.

But this isn’t designed to alarm you – quite the opposite. You are not powerless against these unwanted hitchhikers. There’s a special group of plants you can start in April that can form a potent organic tick repellent. I’m talking about everyday kitchen garden staples (with a couple of unexpected hero herbs thrown in for good measure). So if you’re keen to keep ticks away, the answer is right under your nose.

Plant these superhero herbs, and you’ll be creating an aromatic security system of powerful scents – lovely for you, but not so lovely for those opportunistic ticks. This natural tick repellent system works around the clock to confuse, confound, and repel. Here are the 7 herbs that can help you turn your yard into a tick-free zone.

Growing Herbs to Tackle Ticks

So, how exactly can a superhero herb fight a tick? It comes down to a little thing called the Haller’s organ. These are tiny sensory detectors on their front legs that detect heat, carbon dioxide, and odors from up to 30 feet (9m) away. A yard filled with pungent herbs basically creates a scent screen that can mask your presence and make an environment so overwhelming that ticks choose to move elsewhere.

Preventing ticks is all about those essential oils that we find so delightful, which certain herbs pack in abundance. High concentrations of these natural oils can significantly deter both adult ticks and those tiny, poppy-seed-sized nymphs that are so hard to spot. Essential oils like linalool, menthol, and nepetalactone have been proven in lab settings to interfere with tick nervous systems.

Whether you have a sprawling suburban yard or a compact balcony, these easy herbs deliver a huge punch. April is the perfect time to plant or sow some of the following plants that repel ticks. Getting them established now gives them time to develop the lush, oil-rich foliage they need before the tick nymph season peaks in May and June.

The trick is to put these scent protectors where you need them most. Focus on transition zones, like where a patio meets the garden. Just check your USDA hardiness zone and ensure soil is well-draining. If you're growing herbs in containers, elevate pots with pot toes or feet to prevent pooling, which is oddly attractive to ticks. You can buy cheap-and-cheerful Bosmere Pot Risers (12 Pack) from Amazon.

Generally for herbs, surface area equals scent volume, but the concentration of oils changes as the plant matures. If you start from seed, give them at least 6-8 weeks of growth before you rely on them to hold the front line. OK, let’s dive into the herbs that can stop ticks in their tracks.

1. Lavender

Lavender is a lush, majestic feast for the senses, and for many of us it represents the epitome of serenity and calm. But to a tick, this floral-woody herb is a potent repellent, whether you grow lavender in large containers or in the ground. Its superpower is the high concentration of linalool and eucalyptol. Both are highly offensive to their sensory organs.

For the most potent punch, try English lavender types (L. angustifolia) varieties like ‘Munstead’ or ‘Hidcote.’ They have a higher oil concentration than larger Spanish and French varieties. You can buy 'Hidcote' Purple Lavender Plants from Fast Growing Trees.

Ticks are most active in humid, tall grass, so plant lavender at the threshold where your lawn meets your patio, where you can brush against it for extra protection. They need 6-8 hours of direct light to produce those tick-repelling oils. Also, the woody stems and flower calyxes store the highest concentrations of linalool. So you can speed up your protection if you purchase live plants for a significant scent throw.

2. Lemongrass

If you want an architectural herb that doubles as a good repellent for ticks, try lemongrass. As well as adding movement, it is loaded with a huge scent profile that knocks a tick sideways. Lemongrass contains citronella oil and works by masking our scents. It’s particularly effective because it grows tall and dense, creating a physical and chemical barrier.

In warmer zones (8-10), you can put these straight in the ground in April. In cooler areas, start lemongrass in large pots that can be moved to a sunny patio. Look for Cymbopogon citratus, the culinary variety. You can buy Lemongrass Mix and Match Plants from Burpee. Just remember, unlike the Mediterranean herbs on this list, you need to keep your lemongrass well hydrated to develop those oil-rich blades.

Mass is key with lemongrass. You need a clump at least 6-10 inches (15-25cm) wide. It's most effective once it reaches 2 feet (60cm) in height. Also, ticks might try to hide under the long blades. To help with repelling ticks naturally, keep the area around the base of the plant clear of leaf litter.

3. Rosemary

Rosemary is a real tough guy in this roundup. Its woody stems and needle-like leaves are packed with camphor and limonene, compounds that are highly effective at repelling both ticks and mosquitoes. Rosemary’s oils are stable and don't evaporate quickly, providing long-lasting protection.

April is the ideal time to transplant rosemary. For small spaces, I recommend creeping rosemary, which can spill over the edges of rocks, raised garden beds and containers, creating a scent carpet. Once they establish, erect rosemary also presents a formidable barrier for ticks. Buy Green Promise Farms Rosemary ‘Arp’ from Amazon for a cold-hardy addition to your tick-free zone.

Rosemary becomes more pungent as it gets woody. That 4-inch (10cm) starter pot is fine for a windowsill, but you need to grow rosemary as a semi-mature plant for the best tick defense. Older, tougher needles have a thicker cuticle that holds those camphor oils longer in the sun. Rosemary produces more concentrated oils when it’s slightly stressed by the sun, so don’t be tempted to overwater.

4. Catnip

Don’t let the name fool you: catnip isn't just for feline friends. Research from Iowa State University has found that nepetalactone, the essential oil in catnip, is more effective than DEET, the synthetic active ingredient in certain bug sprays. It triggers a specific chemical irritant response: ticks find it physically uncomfortable to be near. It’s effective against both adult ticks and nymphs.

It is easy to start catnip plants from seed in April, and it will grow rapidly. Buy Homegrown Heirloom Catnip Seeds from Amazon. If you have a wild edge to your yard where ticks congregate, letting catnip go a little wild can be a great defense. However, catnip can get invasive, so you might find it better to grow it in a large pot.

Youthful vigor is an advantage when growing catnip. This herb is potent even when small. However, you need volume. Aim for a mound 12 inches (30cm) across to ensure there’s enough leaf surface to repel ticks. To release the oils, give the leaves a little brush as you walk by.

5. Sage

I adore sage for its textural beauty as well as its earthy aroma. Its soft, silver-green leaves provide a wonderful visual break from brighter tones elsewhere. Ticks, however, find the deep, musky scent of thujone (in sage) repulsive. It’s particularly effective against nymphs. So I like to call sage the velvety protector!

April is the perfect time for planting common sage (Salvia officinalis). It can handle the fluctuating spring temperatures of the Midwest or Northeast, and is also perfect for container gardens. However, avoid over-feeding. If the soil is too rich, it produces less of the oils that repel ticks. Lean and mean is best. Growing sage as an easy perennial in most zones, it will guard your yard for years if you give it plenty of sun.

Surface area is key to repelling ticks, as sage is a slow burner. The more velvety leaves you have, the more the scent lingers. It should hit its stride around 8-10 weeks after planting – the bushier, the better! Try 'Berggarten' for its extra-large, rounded leaves which provide more surface area for oil production. You can buy ‘Bergartten’ Sage Plants from Walmart.

6. Wormwood

It often gets overlooked, but artemisia is a potent natural tick repellent. This silver beauty, the defining ingredient in absinthe, is one of the most bitter plants around. Ticks are tasters as well as smellers. If they crawl onto wormwood, the sheer bitterness of absinthium can cause them to drop off.

You can plant this ornamental herb in April as soon as the threat of a hard freeze has passed. It grows in a neat, mounded shape, making it ideal for the center of a large container arrangement, or grown as a low hedge around a patio. Buy ‘GardenGhost’ Artemisia from Nature Hills.

Wormwood is a bit of a late bloomer. While even small starts are bitter, its true potency kicks in once it forms its signature silvery mound, 2 feet (60cm) wide. The sheer density of the foliage is what keeps ticks at bay. Plant this herb as edging or in a cluster for a meaningful scent barrier.

7. Chrysanthemum

What’s that, you say? Oh, but it is technically a herb, although not one that people tend to grow for culinary reasons. Indeed, the mum is a secret weapon if you want to know how to get rid of ticks in your yard. This pest control doesn't just repel, it contains pyrethrum, a natural neurotoxin that can kill ticks upon contact.

Planting mums in spring gives them time to establish a strong root system and lush foliage, so they can protect the yard all summer long. Plant near a woodpile, around the dog’s favorite sunning spot, or lining the edge of your yard. Pyrethrum daisy mum varieties (C. cinerariifolium) are especially potent, though common mums offer great deterrent properties. Buy ‘Painted Daisy’ Mum Seeds from Amazon.

While flowers have the highest concentration of pyrethrum, the entire plant is toxic to ticks. You don't need to wait for the fall flowers, but you do need significant leaf density. Keep them pinched back in early spring to encourage a bushy, dense shape. The denser your mums, the more contact points there are to nuke braver ticks.

Shop Bonus Tick Repellents

While these superhero herbs really will do a lot of the heavy lifting in your yard this summer, sometimes you may need that extra layer of organic protection for your clothes or pets. Here are some top-rated organic extras to keep the ticks at bay.

Frequently Asked Questions

Spring is a time for renewal, not for worrying! By embracing the power of these potent protectors, you’re taking a vital, proactive step toward a safer backyard. Whatever you do, please don't wait for the heat of June. Reserve a spot in your garden beds and some of your empty pots for this fragrant fortress in April. It’s a delightfully simple, organic, and charmingly “scentsible” way to make your yard a tick-free zone.

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

If you’ve been enticed into growing sage, you’ve likely been captivated by its earthy, aroma and its well-deserved reputation as a textural, velveteen ornamental as well as an edible kitchen classic. Common sage (Salvia officinalis) is a rugged perennial with unique fragrant heft in savory dishes, but also intriguing visual possibilities in beds and borders, making it one of the most versatile herbs you can grow.

Once established, these velvety plants are drought-tolerant and low maintenance, making them ideal for the busy gardener. As a Mediterranean native, this salvia’s needs are simple: plenty of sun and excellent drainage. Whether you have a dedicated herb plot, sunny terracotta pots, or a mixed ornamental border, sage will fit in beautifully with its soft, pebbled texture and cooling silvery green and purple hues.

Alongside its easygoing nature, sage is a veritable multitasker. As well as providing a steady supply of flavorful leaves, many salvia varieties produce nectar-rich floral spikes that act as a magnet for bees, butterflies, and even hummingbirds. Many also maintain their foliage in winter, providing structure and interest when the rest of the backyard has gone to sleep. Here’s how to grow sage in your own kitchen garden for enduring fragrance, velvet-soft foliage, and perennial pleasure.

Quick Sage Facts

Planting Sage

To grow sage well, consider the best spot before planting – specifically, regarding sunshine, drainage, and soil. While sage is tough as old boots, its Mediterranean heritage means it has specific preferences regarding moisture and light. Getting the environment right from day one is the difference between a plant that struggles to see out one season and a lush, bushy shrub that flourishes for years.

Planting sage is a straightforward process, whether starting with seeds indoors or buying established starts or plugs. You just have to keep in mind that it is sensitive to overwatering and high humidity, which can lead to root rots. Your planting strategy should prioritize drainage and air flow, particularly in humid USDA planting zones.

Soil Needs

Soil drainage is the make or break factor when learning how to grow sage, so you’ll find it helps to test your soil before planting. Sage needs to grow in well-drained conditions. Ideally, the soil should be a sandy or loamy texture. If your soil is heavy clay, the sage will likely suffer from root rot in winter or after heavy spring rains. If you have heavy soil, it is best to plant sage in raised beds or containers where you can control the drainage.

Where you suspect heavy ground, you can improve the structure by adding organic matter like well-aged compost, but be careful not to make the soil too rich. Sage develops its most potent flavor and aroma when grown in lean soil. Over-fertilized sage grows quickly, but lacks the essential oil concentration that gives the herb its punch. Sage will also struggle in extremely acidic soils, and prefers a neutral pH.

If you aren’t sure about soil type, try a soil pH kit. Use a reliable tool like the Sonkir 3-in-1 Soil Tester from Amazon to check moisture, pH and light levels before you dig. If soil is too dense, mixing in horticultural grit or perlite can help create the porous environment that sage loves.

Light and Warmth

Sage plants are sun-worshippers. To ensure the best growth and the most flavorful leaves for these sun-loving perennials, aim for a position that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily. In cooler northern climates, full sun is non-negotiable to keep the plant warm and dry. In the southwest or deep south, sage can benefit from a bit of dappled afternoon shade to prevent leaf scorch or wilting in summer.

Temperature wise, common sage is remarkably hardy. It can survive temperatures well below freezing once established. However, the combination of cold and wet is the real killer. In regions with heavy snow or wet winters, the warmth of the soil is more important than air temperature. Planting near a south-facing stone wall can provide a heat sink effect that sage loves, reflecting warmth back onto the plant during the day and keeping the soil a few degrees warmer at night.

Planting Step by Step

When thinking about growing sage outdoors, timing is key. The best time to plant out seed starts is in spring, after the danger of frost has passed and the soil is warming up. Ensure the area is free of weeds. Sage grows slowly in its first year and doesn't like competing for nutrients or water with aggressive grasses. Follow this easy guide for success:

• If growing from seed, start indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost. Sow in a quality seed-starting mix and barely cover the seeds, as they need some light to germinate. Use a heat mat like the Burpee Seed Starting Heat Mat to maintain a steady 70°F (21°C) for optimal germination.
• Once seedlings have two sets of true leaves and the outdoor soil is warm, you can harden them off by placing them outside for a few hours a day, gradually increasing the time. Do this for around 7-10 days.
• Dig a planting hole that is roughly twice the width of the root ball but no deeper. If your soil is poorly draining, this is the time to mix in a handful of grit or perlite in the bottom of the hole.
• When planting, space your young sage plants 18-24 inches (45-61 cm) apart. This will allow for beneficial air flow, which will help to prevent fungal diseases such as powdery mildew.
• Gently firm the soil around the base to remove air pockets. Water the base lightly. Unlike many plants, you do not want to water heavily upon planting. Just add enough to settle the roots, and you’re done.

Shop Sage Care Essentials

Growing sage is easier with the right materials. Choose a well draining base and a hearty young plant, and you’re well on your way to fragrant, enduring perennials.

How to Care for Sage

Sage plant care is generally low on drama once your plants have settled into their home, but it does require a specific type of hands-off monitoring to truly thrive. Because it is a woody sub-shrub, it doesn't need the constant pampering that basil or cilantro might require. However, regional variations such as the humidity of Florida or the dry heat of Arizona require you to adjust your watchful eye accordingly.

Watering

The golden rule for sage is: when in doubt, don't water your plants. Established sage is a very drought-tolerant herb. For young plants and newly transplanted starts, water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. Once the plant is established (usually after its first season), it only needs supplemental watering during prolonged dry spells.

Avoid overhead watering. Getting foliage wet, especially in the evening, creates the perfect environment for powdery mildew. Always water at the base of the plant. Also, if your sage is in a pot, ensure it never sits in a saucer of water. Use pot feet to keep the container elevated. A watering can with a narrow spout or a gooseneck spout, like the Megawodar Copper Galvanized Steel Watering Can from Amazon, is perfect for targeted watering without wetting the leaves.

Fertilizing

Sage is a light feeder. If you enrich the soil with nitrogen-heavy fertilizers, you may get a huge, lush plant with little flavor, as the essential oils are diluted. A light side-dressing of organic compost or a balanced, slow-release organic fertilizer in early spring is all that is required.

Use a gentle fertilizer, like Espoma Organic Garden-Tone Herb Food from Walmart, to provide a slow release of nutrients without overwhelming the plant. Avoid late-season fertilizing and stop feeding in mid-summer. You don't want to encourage a flush of tender new growth late in the season that will be killed off by the first frost.

Mulching

While some key edibles in a veggie garden love moisture-retaining organic mulch, sage prefers a dryer option. Using wood chips or bark right up against the stem of a sage plant might cause it to rot. Instead, pea gravel or sand are ideal mulching options for sage. They help to reflect light up into the plant and keep the crown dry, which prevents fungal issues. You can buy GreatBuddy Pea Gravel from Amazon for a decorative mulch that accents the tones and textures of your sage plants.

In very cold zones, you can apply a loose layer of evergreen boughs or straw over the plant to protect it from soil heave (when the soil freezes and thaws, pushing the roots out of the ground). Always leave a 2-inch (5 cm) gap between the mulch and plant stems.

Transplanting

If you realize your sage is in a spot that is too shady or too wet, it is possible to move it. The best time to transplant sage is in the early spring, just as the first signs of new growth appear, but before the plant has fully woken up. Dig as wide as possible to keep the root system intact. Sage has a taproot-like structure as it ages, so the younger the plant, the easier it is to move.

Have the new hole ready before you dig up the plant, so the roots spend minimal time exposed to the air. Water the plant well 24 hours before the move, and water it lightly once it is in its new home. Avoid moving sage in the heat of mid-summer, as the stress will often kill the plant.

Pruning & Deadheading

Pruning is highly beneficial for sage. If left to its own devices, a sage plant will become woody and leggy after two or three years, with leaves only at the tips of long, bare branches. Regular pruning keeps the plant productive, compact, and looking its best.

Spring is the time for your big prune. In late spring, after the new growth has started to emerge, cut the plant back by a third. Look for the small green buds on the woody stems and cut just above them. This encourages the plant to branch out from the base rather than just getting taller.

Once the purple blooms fade in early summer, you can deadhead the flower spikes. This prevents the plant from putting energy into seed production and encourages another flush of leaves for the kitchen. However, never cut into the old wood (where there are no leaves or buds), as these branches will generally fail to regrow.

When pruning, use sharp, clean bypass pruners to ensure you don't crush the stems. Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon are excellent for harvesting and deadheading sage, and help make clean, precise cuts.

Great Sage Varieties

While common sage is the standard planting option, there are several wonderful cultivars that offer different colors and growth habits. When choosing, consider both your culinary needs and your garden's aesthetic.

• Berggarten: This has larger, rounder leaves than common sage and rarely flowers, so it stays productive all season. It is very hardy (even in short bursts of winter snow) and has a wonderful, robust flavor. You can buy ‘Berggarten’ Sage Herb Plants from Burpee as live plants.
• Purpurascens: This purple sage variety has smoky-toned young leaves that turn grayish-green as they age. It is just as edible as common sage, but adds a beautiful dark contrast to the herb garden. Buy Clovers Garden Purple Sage from Amazon.
• Icterina: This variegated variety has green leaves edged in bright gold. Golden sage is slightly less hardy than common sage (and is better for USDA zones 6-9), and stays a bit smaller, making it perfect for pots.
• Tricolor: Featuring leaves splashed with green, white, and pinky purple, this is the least hardy of the group and often behaves as an annual in northern climates, but it is striking in a patio pot. You can buy Tricolor Sage from Amazon.
• Holt’s Mammoth: As the name suggests, this is a giant-leaved variety that is perfect for those who do a lot of cooking or want to make fried sage leaves. It is very vigorous and productive.

Special Considerations

Take steps to protect your sage plants from exposure to humidity. In the south, sage is prone to fungal collapse, caused by high heat combined with high humidity. To combat this, give your sage more space than the label suggests. Giving 3 feet (90 cm) of distance between plants allows for the breeze to dry the leaves quickly.

Also, brace yourself for an eventual decline in the potency and vitality of these perennial herbs. In relative terms, sage is a short-lived perennial. Even with perfect pruning, it will eventually become too woody and lose its vigor. Replacing plants every 4-6 years keeps the harvest at its peak.

Growing Sage in Containers

If you have heavy soil or limited space, sage is perfect for container gardening. Because sage likes to be on the dry side, the natural drainage provided by a pot is actually an advantage. When growing sage in containers, the key is the pot material. Terracotta or clay pots are ideal for sage, as the porous material allows the soil to breathe and dry out faster than plastic or glazed ceramic. Ensure the pot is at least 10–12 inches (25-30 cm) deep and wide for a single plant.

Do not use standard moisture-control potting soils. Instead, look for a cactus and succulent mix, or make your own by mixing 70% high-quality potting soil with 30% perlite or coarse sand. This ensures the water moves through the pot quickly. Container plants leach nutrients faster than those in the ground. Use a half-strength liquid organic fertilizer once every four weeks during summer.

While sage loves sun, the soil in a pot can get much hotter than the ground. In extreme heat waves, move your potted sage to a spot where the pot is shaded but the foliage still gets sun. Sage also grows quickly. If you see roots coming out of the drainage holes, it’s time to move to a pot that is 2 inches (5cm) wider.

Get these fundamentals right, and you’ll find sage is one of the best perennial herbs for pot-based growing. My favorite purple sage adores a shallow terracotta pot in a combination herb medley, alongside golden thyme and common oregano.

Overwintering Sage

Sage is naturally cold-hardy, as long as you avoid the dangers of keeping the plants sitting in damp soil. In USDA zones 5-9, sage will survive the winter in the ground with no interference. In zone 4, apply a thick layer of straw once the ground is frozen. This helps to prevent the freeze-thaw cycle that can snap roots.

Potted sage is more vulnerable, because the roots aren't insulated. If overwintering sage in a container in zone 6 and below, wrap the pot in several layers of burlap or bubble wrap. Alternatively, move the pot to an unheated garage or a cold frame for the winter. Never prune your sage during late autumn or winter. The old stems provide a bit of protection for the crown, and the wounds from pruning won't heal in the cold, leaving the plant open to infection, so wait until spring.

Propagating Sage

Propagation is a wonderful way to ensure you always have young, vigorous plants to replace older, woody ones. Growing sage from seed is possible, but it’s more efficient to propagate sage with cuttings or layering, as these methods are faster.

In late spring or early summer, take 4-inch (10 cm) softwood cuttings from flexible, non-flowering green stems. Strip the bottom 2 inches (5 cm) of leaves and dip the tip in a rooting hormone like Garden Safe TakeRoot Rooting Hormone from Amazon. Stick your edible salvia cuttings into a pot of moist sand/perlite mix. Keep them in a bright spot out of direct sun until roots form (this usually takes 3-4 weeks).

Alternatively, try layering. This is the easiest set-and-forget method. In the spring, take a long, flexible branch of an existing plant and pin a section to the ground with a landscape staple, covering that section with an inch of soil. By fall, it will have grown its own roots. Snip and detach it from the mother plant and move it to its own spot.

Common Sage Problems

While sage is hardy, and its potent oils act as a natural deterrent for many garden pests, it isn't entirely invincible. Most sage struggles are linked to moisture, either in the air or the soil. Fortunately, if you catch these issues early, they are quite easy to manage with organic methods.

• Aphids: These small, pear-shaped insects cluster on new growth. Aphids suck sap from young shoots and cause leaves to curl, and leave a sticky honeydew residue. Spray with a strong stream of water to dislodge them, followed by an application of neem oil, such as Bonide Captain Jack’s Ready-To-Use Neem Oil Spray from Amazon. Repeat every few days, until things clear up.
• Powdery mildew: This fungal disease occurs in humid, stagnant air. It manifests as a white, flour-like dusting on the leaves, eventually causing the foliage to turn yellow and drop. To combat powdery mildew, ensure plants have 2-3 feet (60-90 cm) of space for air circulation. If you spot it, spray the foliage with a solution of one part milk to nine parts water, or use an organic fungicide. Try to water only at the base of the plant to keep the leaves dry. Thinning plants can also help tackle the issue.
• Root rot (phytophthora): This is usually caused by overwatering or heavy, poorly draining clay soil. You’ll notice the plant wilting or looking droopy, leaves may turn yellow, and the base of the stems may turn brown. Because there is no cure once root rot sets in, prevention is vital. Always plant sage in well-drained soil or raised beds. If you suspect rot, stop watering and try to incorporate coarse sand or grit around the root zone, but you may need to start fresh in a new, drier location.

• Spider mites: These tiny, reddish-brown pests thrive in the hot, dry conditions that sage loves. They suck the sap from the underside of the leaves, leaving behind tiny yellow stipples (dots) and a fine, silky webbing. To get rid of spider mites, give your sage a forceful shower with a garden hose. Follow this up with a thorough coating of neem spray, making sure to hit the undersides of the leaves where mites hide.
• Spittlebugs: Often appearing in late spring, these look like small clumps of white spit on the stems of your sage. Inside the bubbles is a small green nymph. While spittlebugs look unsightly and can cause minor leaf distortion, they rarely cause significant damage to a healthy plant. The easiest and most effective treatment is simply to blast them off with a sharp stream of water from your garden hose.
• Slugs and snails: While they generally prefer tender greens like lettuce, slugs can occasionally take a liking to young sage seedlings or the lower leaves of established plants during wet periods. To protect your sage, clear away any damp mulch or debris from the base of the plant, where they hide during the day. You can also try an organic slug pub or lay jagged eggshell fragments around the base of your sage.

Harvesting Sage

The most important rule of harvesting sage is to do it frequently. The more you pick these herbs, the more they produce extra leaves. For the best flavor, harvest in the morning after the dew has dried, but before the sun gets too hot. The essential oils are most concentrated before the plant flowers. Snip off individual leaves or small sprigs as needed. Just remember not to take more than one-third of the plant at a time.

Storage of harvested leaves is a lovely bonus, as they keep beautifully. Sage is one of the few herbs that dries really well. Try hanging small bundles upside down in a dark, airy place. Once crispy, crumble them into an airtight jar. You can also freeze sage leaves in ice cube trays with a little olive oil. Do one last light harvest in early September, then let the plant rest so it can harden off for the winter.

Companion Plants for Sage

Sage is a legendary protector in the vegetable garden, as well as a lovely team player for key ornamentals. Its intense fragrance confuses many pests, making it a brilliant neighbor for several crops. When choosing companions, the key is to match plants that share sage’s love for full sun and sharp drainage.

• Rosemary and thyme: These are soulmates for sage in a herb garden. Together, this Mediterranean herbal trilogy thrives in the same conditions. Planting in tandem creates a tapestry of texture. Upright, needle-like rosemary provides an effective height contrast to the soft, rounded gray leaves of sage, while thyme acts as a low-growing foil. Plant in large terracotta containers with a suitably sandy soil.
• Brassicas: Sage is a traditional bio-protector for the cabbage family. Its strong, camphor-heavy scent helps to mask the smell of the brassicas from the cabbage looper moth and cabbage rust fly. By planting sage at the ends of cabbage rows, you create a fragrant barrier that reduces the need for pesticides. The dark leaves of kale or broccoli also provide a stunning visual backdrop for sage foliage.
• Carrots: This is a classic win-win pairing for a kitchen garden. Sage can deter the carrot rust fly. In return, the carrots won't compete with sage for surface-level nutrients, as their roots grow deep into the soil, while sage’s roots stay relatively shallow. Just ensure the sage doesn’t grow so large that it shades out emerging carrot tops in early summer.

• California poppies: For a stunning, low-maintenance flower border, sage and California poppies are both drought-tolerant and love hot and dry spots where other plants might wither. The brilliant orange or yellow petals of these poppies offer a vibrant contrast to the cool silvery tones of sage. Because both can survive on rainfall once established, they are perfect for water-wise or xeriscape gardening.
• Lavender: Sage and lavender share a love of sun and minimal water. For a beautiful container-based lavender pairing, try compact 'Munstead' with variegated 'Icterina' sage. The purple flower spikes of the lavender and the yellow-green leaves of the sage create a high-contrast visual that lasts all season.
• Strawberries: Some gardeners swear by planting sage near strawberries to improve berry flavor and to deter pests. Sage's aromatic foliage can help hide the ripening fruit from certain insects. Since strawberries are low-growers and sage is a mid-sized shrub, they occupy different tiers, making efficient use of space in a raised bed.

There are only a few plants it is best not to plant with sage. Avoid growing with cucumbers, as sage can stunt the growth of cucumber vines. Cucumbers require massive amounts of water and high humidity to produce fruit, which is the opposite of the dry environment sage needs to survive. You are also best avoiding grouping with fennel, which produces allelopathic compounds that can inhibit growth in sage. Sage also dislikes growing with basil, which is a bit of a water hog.

Growing sage is a rewarding investment that offers year-round beauty and flavor. With just a little attention to drainage and a sunny spot to call home, your sage will provide you with a lifetime of savory harvests and aromatic garden moments.

Frequently Asked Questions

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Cilantro – known as coriander in some regions – is a versatile, fast-growing annual herb prized in kitchens around the world for its bright, citrusy flavor and aromatic leaves. Unlike most leafy herbs, cilantro offers dual uses: tender, flavorful foliage for fresh use in salsas, curries, and sauces, and later on, aromatic seeds called coriander that are prized as a spice. It’s a staple herb in Mexican, Asian, Middle Eastern, and Mediterranean cuisines, bringing complexity to everything from tacos to chutneys.

Native to the Mediterranean Basin and parts of Western Asia and Northern Africa, cilantro has been cultivated for thousands of years. It adapts well to a range of garden settings, from in-ground beds to containers on sunny patios. As a cool-season herb, it thrives in moderate climates, prefers well-drained soil, consistent moisture, and bright sunshine. It grows best when temperatures stay between roughly 50–85°F (10–29°C).

Cilantro is easy to grow from seed for beginners, though gardeners are often confined to growing in the cooler seasons. This is because cilantro has a propensity to bolt in warm weather – meaning it sends up a flowering stalk prematurely, which impacts flavor. Still, for anyone growing an herb garden, especially those who enjoy international fare, cilantro is definitely a must-grow herb.

Quick Cilantro Facts

What Is Cilantro?

The cilantro plant, as mentioned above, offers two harvests. First, its leaves, which resemble flat leaf parsley and for which it’s often mistaken, are the part of the plant used in culinary applications. Wait for the plant to come into flower and its tiny white blooms become hard, round seeds known as coriander. These seeds can be toasted and/or ground and are also considered a valuable spice.

Types of Cilantro

Cilantro is a fairly uniform herb with few noticeable differences between most cultivated varieties. Seed packets are often just labeled 'Cilantro', though 'Santo' is the most commonly available cultivar, which is slow-bolting and reliable with great flavor. Other slow-to-bolt varieties include ‘Slow Bolt’, ‘Leisure’, and ‘Calypso’. Check out Burpee and Eden Brothers for a range of seeds.

There are also a few specialist cilantro varieties, including 'Confetti' and 'Criollo', which have fern-like foliage, and purple cilantro, which has purple-tinged stems. If you're looking for a better option to grow in the heat, consider Vietnamese cilantro, a different plant but with enough similarities to be used as a substitute in many dishes.

Planting Cilantro

Cilantro grows rapidly, producing a crop in as little as a few weeks. For this reason, it is most often started from seed. The hard, round, little seeds – which are actually the dried fruit of the plant – typically germinate in 1–2 weeks, depending on soil temperature and moisture.

When to Plant Cilantro

As cilantro is a cool-weather crop, planting dates depend on your local climate. It has a tendency to bolt and produce seeds when the soil temperature reaches 75°F (24°C). For best results, sow or transplant as soon as the soil is workable so plants can mature and produce a good crop of leaves before rising temperatures trigger premature flowering.

• In southern climates with mild winters, cilantro performs best as a fall through early spring crop, often continuing to produce through the winter when temperatures stay cool but not freezing.
• In northern climates, where winters are much colder, cilantro is typically grown in spring and fall, avoiding both hard frosts and the heat of summer.

Best Soil for Cilantro

Most common garden soil types are compatible with growing cilantro, provided they are well-draining with a soil pH between 6.0 and 7.5. However, you'll get a better crop if the soil is loamy and rich in organic matter, as this helps provide nutrients and retain consistent moisture without becoming waterlogged. Soil that dries out quickly or holds too much moisture will stress the plant and can lead to poor growth or running to seed.

Prior to planting, incorporate up to 4 inches (10 cm) of lowering or other organic soil amendment into the top 6 inches (15 cm) of the soil to improve both structure and fertility. But take care not to over-fertilize, which can impact flavor.

Cilantro Light Requirements

Cilantro needs a full sun location with at least six hours of bright, direct sunlight each day for best growth, though in warmer climates it benefits from some protection during the hottest part of the day. Ideally, plant cilantro where it will get strong morning or late afternoon sun. Plants in lower light conditions will get leggy and fail to produce enough tasty leaves.

If your goal is to produce coriander seed, then plants must be in full sun to set blooms and seed.

How to Plant Cilantro – Step by Step

Cilantro does not always transplant well, yet it's fast-growing, so it's better to direct sow seeds into prepared garden beds or containers. To ensure a continuous harvest, succession plant every 2–3 weeks, especially in spring.

1. Choose the right time. You can sow seeds outdoors in early spring as soon as the soil can be worked, or in late summer for a fall harvest. Cilantro grows best when temperatures stay between 50–75°F (10–24°C).
2. Select a planting site. Choose a location with full sun to partial shade. In warmer regions, afternoon shade helps to slow bolting. Cilantro prefers well-drained, fertile soil with consistent moisture.
3. Prepare the soil. Loosen soil to a depth of about 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) and mix in compost if needed. Avoid heavy or compacted soils, which can stunt growth.
4. Sow seeds directly. Sow seeds ¼–½ inch (6–13 mm) deep, spacing them about 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) apart. Rows should be 8–12 inches (20–30 cm) apart. Water gently after planting.
5. Thin seedlings and water. Once they are a few inches tall, thin seedlings to 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) apart. Keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged.

If you opt to start seeds indoors or buy nursery plugs, then transplant seedlings with care, taking as much of the pot soil as possible. Biodegradable pots, like these from Amazon, work best to keep the roots undisturbed. Plant into prepared beds, with seedlings spaced 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) apart.

Cilantro Care

Cilantro is easy to grow but quick to bolt if conditions aren’t right. Keep plants well-watered, harvest regularly, and grow during cooler periods to enjoy a longer, more productive harvest. Follow these practices to ensure your cilantro plants result in the best harvest possible.

How Often to Water Cilantro

Cilantro plants need consistent, even moisture during the growing season to support good leafy growth and avoid early bolting. Mature plants in full sun tend to dry out more quickly and need watering once a week, if not more frequently. Water deeply so moisture reaches all the roots, then allow the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil to dry out a little before watering again. Avoid letting the soil dry out completely.

Using drip irrigation or a soaker hose can help maintain even moisture while keeping foliage dry. This Rain Bird drip irrigation kit can keep herbs and vegetables evenly watered.

Fertilizing Cilantro

Cilantro doesn’t really need fertilizing if the soil is rich in organic matter. If needed, amend the soil with compost before planting. In poorer soils, a light application of a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer or occasional feeding with a diluted liquid fertilizer during the growing season will be sufficient.

Avoid over-fertilizing, especially with high-nitrogen products, as this can lead to excessive leafy growth that is less flavorful, and it may also encourage early bolting. A balanced or slightly lower-nitrogen fertilizer (such as 5-10-10 NPK) works well, like this CZ Garden Organics Tomato & Vegetable Fertilizer, available via Amazon.

Mulching Cilantro

While it's not necessary to mulch cilantro, it is beneficial, particularly in warmer conditions. Mulch helps retain soil moisture, keeps roots cool, and suppresses weeds. It will also help to minimize the risk of premature bolting caused by heat stress.

Lay down a 2-to-3-inch (5–7.5 cm) layer of natural mulching material like straw, shredded leaves, or pine straw. Put this mulch around the base of the plants and avoid direct contact with the stems.

How to Prune Cilantro

Cilantro requires little if any pruning, as most cutting is done during harvest. It can, however, benefit from removing damaged or yellowing leaves to keep the plant healthy. Do this by snipping the entire leaf stem at the base with clean scissors or hand pruners. Regular harvesting or light trimming can also encourage bushier growth and help delay bolting.

Harvesting Cilantro

Begin harvesting cilantro leaves as soon as plants are 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) tall, typically 30–45 days after planting. Older plants produce woodier stems and less tasty leaves.

Harvest regularly – about once a week or more often at peak growth – to encourage continued leaf production. For the best flavor, harvest cilantro in the morning when its essential oils are most concentrated.

Using sharp, clean pruners or scissors, cut the outer leaves first, and leave a few stems and leaves on the plant so that it can continue to grow. Fiskars' herb garden scissors are perfect for the task, offering precise cuts with minimal fatigue.

Harvesting Coriander Seeds

To harvest coriander seed, stop cutting leaves and allow the plants to flower and set seed. Wait for the seed heads to turn brown and dry out, which means it’s time to harvest them. You can collect them by picking them with your fingers, snipping off whole seed heads, or pulling the plant out of the ground and shaking the seeds into a container.

Cilantro Care Calendar

Overwintering Cilantro

In mild climates, cilantro can survive through winter and continue producing leaves during cool periods. In colder regions, cilantro will not tolerate prolonged freezing, but it can be protected with row covers, like this kit from Amazon. Alternatively, it can be grown in containers and moved to a sheltered location for a short-lived winter harvest.

In most cases, however, it is more reliable to sow fresh seed in early spring or fall rather than trying to carry plants through winter.

Storing Cilantro

After harvesting cilantro, wash and dry the leaves, wrap them in a paper towel, and store them in the refrigerator in a bag for up to a week. Alternatively, place the stems in a glass of water and cover loosely to help keep the leaves fresh.

Because its flavor and scent diminish quickly after harvest, cilantro is best used as soon as possible. If needed, it can be frozen by chopping the leaves and storing them in an airtight container or freezing them in ice cube trays with a little water or oil.

Cilantro can also be dried for longer storage, though the flavor becomes more subtle, making it better suited for cooked dishes. If you grow a lot of herbs, then it's worth investing in a basic dehydrator, like this Elite Gourmet model on Amazon.

Storing Coriander Seeds

Dry the coriander seeds by cutting whole seed heads and placing them in a paper bag or on a tray in a warm, dry, well-ventilated area out of direct sunlight. Allow them to dry until the seeds turn light brown and separate easily from the stems. Once fully dry, store them in an airtight glass jar or other container in a cool, dark place, such as a pantry, where they will remain flavorful for months.

Lightly toast whole seeds before using, then crush or grind them as needed. Coriander complements cumin, garlic, citrus, and chili, and works in both savory dishes (like roasted vegetables and meats) and some sweet recipes, such as spiced cakes or cookies.

Harvested coriander seeds can also be used to grow another crop of cilantro. Again, be sure to fully dry the seeds before storing them in a container until you are ready to use them.

Propagating Cilantro

Cilantro doesn’t transplant as well as other herbs, so it's best to grow new plants from seed. Sow seeds directly outdoors after the risk of frost has passed, and continue sowing every few weeks to get a continuous harvest.

You can also propagate cilantro from cuttings, though this method is less reliable. To try it, cut a healthy stem about 3 to 5 inches (8–13 cm) long just below a leaf node. Remove the lower leaves and place the cut end in water. Keep the cutting in indirect sunlight in a warm spot, refreshing the water every few days. Roots may begin to form in 2–4 weeks, at which point the cutting can be planted in potting soil.

Because cilantro does not always root successfully from cuttings, using a rooting hormone – like Garden Safe TakeRoot – on the cut stem tip may help improve your chances.

Cilantro Problems

Cilantro is generally easy to grow. However, pests, diseases, and cultural issues can cause problems if growing conditions aren’t ideal.

Pests

There are a few common garden pests that can affect cilantro. All of the below will feed on plant sap and can cause yellowing, curling leaves, or stunted growth.

• Aphids
• Spider mites
• Leafhoppers

Aphids are the most frequent issue and are often controlled with a strong spray of water, insecticidal soap (like this organic Bonide spray), or by encouraging beneficial insects like ladybugs.

Diseases

There are a small number of plant diseases to look out for. All of the most common issues are related to excess moisture or poor air circulation.

• Powdery mildew appears as a white, powdery coating on cilantro leaves, particularly in warm, dry conditions with poor air circulation.
• Leaf spot on cilantro is a common bacterial disease that causes dark lesions on leaves and can reduce their quality and edibility.
• Damping off affects seedlings, causing stems to rot at the soil line and collapse.
• Root rot occurs in poorly drained soils and is often fatal to plants.

Cilantro Bolting

Beyond pests and disease, the most common growing challenge is cilantro bolting. The plants will flower and go to seed quickly when exposed to heat, long days, or drought. Besides being annoying, bolting also makes the leaves bitter and sparse.

Planting during cool weather, providing afternoon shade, consistent watering, and choosing slow-bolting varieties such as ‘Slow Bolt’ and ‘Calypso’ can help extend the harvest window.

Growing Cilantro in Containers

Cilantro grows very well in containers, so it’s a great option for growing on patios and balconies. Because cilantro develops a long taproot and dislikes waterlogged soils, it’s important to choose a pot that is at least 8–10 inches (20–25 cm) deep and with drainage holes. Use a high-quality, well-draining potting mix, like this Rosy Soil Herb Mix, and place the containers where they’ll receive morning sun and some afternoon shade, especially in warm climates.

Containers dry out more quickly than garden beds, so consistent watering is key. Keep the soil evenly moist, but not soggy, and check pots frequently during warm or windy weather. They will need some occasional feeding with plant food, but keep in mind that overfertilizing can reduce flavor. Use a water-soluble, diluted plant food at every other watering.

Sowing seeds in a new pot every week or two will help ensure a steady supply of fresh cilantro. Pots can be easily moved to cooler or shadier spots to slow bolting and extend the harvest.

Growing Cilantro Indoors

Growing cilantro indoors is more challenging than outdoors, but if you can provide the right care and conditions, it can still make a productive and rewarding kitchen herb.

The key is to replicate the environment cilantro prefers outdoors – plenty of light, well-draining soil, and moderate temperatures. Of these, light is usually the trickiest aspect to get right. Place it near a sunny, south-facing window where it can get six hours of bright light each day. If natural light is limited, supplement with a grow light, like this GooingTop LED light on Amazon, to keep plants from becoming leggy.

Choose a container with good drainage that fits comfortably on a windowsill, such as the Bloem Trio Flight, available at Home Depot.

Companion Planting with Cilantro

Many of the beneficial insects that destroy the “bad bugs” in your garden are attracted to cilantro’s tiny yet alluring flowers. Plant a few seeds of cilantro for companion planting with various other crops. Cilantro will encourage those beneficial insects to stay in your gardens and help you battle the bad bugs.

Plant cilantro throughout the garden in well-placed locations, such as near tomato and spinach plants or planted in rows bordering fruits and vegetables. This is the one instance in which you want to choose varieties that bolt and produce flowers easily.

Parasitoid wasps and hover flies are just two of the beneficial insects attracted to the garden that contains cilantro. Using cilantro as a companion in the garden, in combination with other small flowering pungent herbs, may provide a pest-free garden or at least keep bad bugs to an acceptable minimum that does not allow for damage to your crops.

Frequently Asked Questions

Russian sage creates a lavender-blue cloud in the garden from early summer to mid-fall. The tall purple spikes of airy blooms are eye-catching above the silver-green aromatic foliage and attract butterflies. It looks luxurious, but it’s really a workhorse in the garden, vigorous, hardy, and drought tolerant. This shrub thrives in USDA plant hardiness zones 4-9.

Russian sage care is minimal, but it does include pruning. It should be pruned every year to keep it neat and compact, but don’t think it reduces the blooms. Pruning is also necessary to get this perennial to bear the most flowers possible, keeping the plant vigorous.

Are you ready to start cutting back your Russian sage? Read on to learn how and when to prune Russian sage.

When to Prune Russian Sage

Russian sage (Salvia yangii) is a perennial that goes dormant in the winter. Many deciduous plants are best pruned during their dormancy, and Russian sage is one of them. Pruning while the plant is “sleeping” reduces pruning stress. The best time for pruning Russian sage is late winter or early spring, before new growth begins.

Can you prune in early winter? Yes, it is possible to prune Russian sage at any time during the plant’s dormancy. But the plant offers winter interest in the garden. The silvery green foliage disappears as cold weather arrives, but the silver stems and interesting seedheads remain appealing all winter long. In addition, the dry stems insulate the crown of the plant. Waiting to prune until late winter allows you to take advantage of this beauty.

How to Prune Russian Sage

Even if you haven’t had very much experience with pruning shrubs, you won’t have any problem with Russian sage. This plant is not only very easy to prune, but it’s virtually impossible to over-prune.

The classic (and easiest) way to prune Russian sage is to cut it back hard while it is dormant in late winter or early spring. Trim each stem down to between 6 and 18 inches (15-30 cm). If you leave it taller (cutting it back to 15-18 inches), it will be a more impressive shrub when it starts to leaf out. The shorter you cut it back, the more compact the plant will be when it grows out.

Don’t forget to sterilize your pruning shears or loppers before you make any cuts. It’s also a good idea to wear garden gloves. I love wearing arm saver gloves, like these from the woman-owned business Womanswork on Amazon, to keep hands and forearms protected.

Mistakes to Avoid

Although pruning Russian sage is not difficult, there are pruning mistakes that would be better to avoid. Here are a few of them.

• Failure to prune. It may be tempting to just let your Russian sage grow naturally, without any pruning. But this road doesn’t end anywhere you want to be. If you don’t prune your Russian sage, the plant gets overgrown and woody. You have less and less flowers and more branches. It stops being a lovely plant and becomes an eyesore.
• Watering too much. Of course, regular irrigation is important when you are planting your Russian sage. But once it is established, cut back on the water. This plant is drought-tolerant. Too much extra water can lead to fungal issues.
• Forgetting to give the plant elbow room. If you plant two or more Russian sage shrubs, don’t put them too close together. Leave at least a space of 3 feet (1m) between plants to allow each one to develop. If they are too close together, no amount of pruning will make them look their best.
• Pruning in Summer. In summer, the Russian sage is in the midst of its growing season. Cutting back the plant then will not be good for the plant and may even kill it.

Shop Pruning Essentials

Most people treat windowsill herbs like consumables – grow them, use them, replace them when they get scraggly. That's one way to do it. But woody herbs in particular have a different gear entirely, one that doesn't get talked about much. Given the right pruning and a little patience, they'll develop an actual structure similar to bonsai trees.

When growing herbs in containers as bonsai trees, the gnarled trunks, branching canopies, and real visible character look like something considerably closer to a miniature tree than a pot of fresh herbs. The technique borrows from basic bonsai principles, but strips out most of the complexity. There's no wiring, no specialty soils, and no years of horticultural study required.

For anyone already growing woody herbs, the shift is mostly a matter of seeing the plant differently and knowing which cuts to make and when to make them. The results take a season or two, but they're genuinely worth the wait. I’ll reveal which herbs are best for bonsai-style growing and share my top tips on how to prune your plants into mini trees.

Shop Bonsai Essentials

Best Herbs for Bonsai

Not every herb will cooperate with this style of growing. Soft, fast-growing annual herbs like basil or cilantro don't have the woody structure necessary for bonsai. They bolt, flop, and start too quickly to develop into anything worthwhile.

The herbs that respond well to bonsai techniques are the woody perennial herbs like rosemary, lavender, thyme, sage, and oregano. These build sturdy stems over time. They also have bark that develops interesting texture and branches that hold their shape after pruning.

• Rosemary: Rosemary is the easiest herb for bonsai. It grows upright naturally, puts on woody stems quickly, and tolerates aggressive pruning without drama.
• Lavender: Lavender develops a beautiful low, spreading trunk with enough time and the right cuts.
• Thyme: Thyme stays smaller, but builds a dense, twisting structure that looks striking in a shallow pot.
• Sage: Sage gets big and sculptural, if left to develop. It grows wider than most people expect and it's worth the space on a larger windowsill.

How to Grow Herb Bonsai Trees

Growing bonsai herb trees is an extremely rewarding gardening project that even first-time growers can try with great success. The main key is patience. Other than that, it's simple. Just follow these five easy steps below to create a mini forest of edible bonsai herbs in your kitchen.

1. Building the Trunk

The first step in creating unique bonsai trees from herbs is letting your plants get a little bigger than you'd normally allow. Most people harvest herbs constantly from young plants, which keeps them bushy and low, but prevents any real trunk from forming.

To develop structure, the main stem needs to thicken and get woody. That means backing off the heavy harvesting for a season and letting your plants put energy into growing upward and outward before the real shaping begins.

Once there's a defined main stem – ideally pencil-thick or bigger – start removing the lower branches. Make clean cuts, flush to the main stem, working from the bottom up.

The goal is to expose 3-4 inches (7-10 cm) of clear trunk below where the canopy starts. Those lower cuts won't regrow if made cleanly, which is what gives the plant that lifted, tree-like silhouette over time.

A small pair of sharp bonsai scissors, like these ones from Amazon, makes precise work on thin stems a lot easier than standard herb snips.

2. Shaping the Canopy

With the lower trunk cleared, now attention shifts to the canopy. Rather than cutting back indiscriminately, look for branches growing inward toward the center of the plant or crossing over others. Remove those first.

The goal is a canopy that opens up slightly at the center, lets light through, and has a visible structure rather than a dense, undifferentiated mass of foliage. This is exactly where bonsai principles are useful. Think of every pruning cut as a decision about shape, not just size.

Pinching the tips of remaining branches encourages lateral growth and keeps the canopy compact. This is different from hard pruning. Just cut back the very tip and two to three leaves back every few weeks throughout the growing season.

It sounds fussy, but it only takes about thirty seconds. Over a few months, your herbs will build the kind of dense, rounded canopy that makes them look intentionally designed rather than just randomly grown.

3. Choosing the Right Pot

Pot choice for bonsai matters more than most people think. Shallow, wide containers – the kind associated with bonsai – force your plants to develop lateral root structures and give them the right visual proportions.

A rosemary bonsai with a thick trunk sitting in a deep, narrow pot just looks like regular rosemary. That same plant in a wide, low glazed bonsai pot, like this one from Amazon, with an inch (2.5 cm) of exposed trunk above the soil line looks completely different. Terracotta, ceramic, or anything with good drainage works – just go shallower than your natural instinct suggests.

4. Watering Without Wrecking It

Watering herbs grown as bonsai trees follows the same rules as any container-grown herb. Let the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil dry out between waterings, water thoroughly when you do, and never let plants sit in standing water.

Overwatering is the main failure point. Lavender is especially likely to develop root rot before showing any above-ground signs of distress, which makes it easy to miss until it's too late.

Terracotta pots help regulate moisture naturally, which is worth factoring into pot selection if overwatering is a recurring issue for you and your plants.

5. Providing the Necessary Fertilizer

Fertilizing herbs grown as bonsai trees is genuinely important in a way that it isn't for regular herbs. A plant being shaped and lightly stressed by regular pruning needs consistent nutrition to stay healthy and keep pushing out new growth.

A balanced liquid fertilizer applied every two to three weeks through the growing season keeps plants thriving without encouraging the kind of soft, floppy growth that undermines the structure of your bonsai herb tree.

Low nitrogen relative to phosphorus and potassium is ideal because it promotes woody stem over leafy excess. Try an herb fertilizer, like this one from Amazon, at half the recommended rate through the active pruning period.

What to Expect From Bonsai Herbs

Growing your first bonsai tree rewards your patience in a way that most windowsill herb gardening doesn't. After one season of shaping, the plant starts to look intentional. After two, it starts to look genuinely impressive – particularly rosemary, which develops rough and peeling bark on a trunk that looks truly ancient.

At that point it's not really an herb anymore, at least in the conventional sense. It's something to admire, something to tend carefully, something that gets more interesting every year.

What makes it worth the effort, beyond the aesthetics, is that these plants still produce delicious edible branches and leaves you can use in your kitchen. A well-shaped rosemary or thyme bonsai still gives harvests throughout the season – just from newer growth at the canopy tips rather than from indiscriminate cutting.

So the edible function remains intact when growing herb bonsai trees. It just comes attached to something that looks like it belongs on a desk in a very nice apartment, rather than in a plastic nursery pot on a kitchen windowsill.

We all know about (and obsess over) our birth stones and zodiac signs, but there’s another, lesser-known tradition rooted in centuries of herbal lore: birth month herbs.

Yes, it turns out our beloved garden herbs are more than just flavor-enhancing edimentals. According to The Old Farmer's Almanac, in fact, each month is linked to a specific herb that reflects the personality traits, energy, and the quiet strengths of those born within it

From January's vigorous peppermint to December's prosperous basil, the idea is grounded in a time when herbs were far more than kitchen staples. Across cultures, they were upheld as medicine, protection, and ritual, all woven into daily life and belief... which is likely why they are so often linked with women's resistance,, passed down through generations in ways that were often overlooked, dismissed, or quietly powerful.

Birth Month Herbs and What They Symbolize

Of course, many of us are tapping into old wisdom when it comes to gardening – whether that means burning peppermint at the start of the year, or planting by the lunar calendar.

Much like our birth month birds, though, these herbal associations offer something a little different: a way to tap into nature's seasonal rhythms and find meaning through gardening.

Here’s what your birth month herb says about you, then, and how to grow it.

January – Peppermint

Bright, sharp, and impossible to ignore, peppermint has long been associated with clarity and fresh starts. In folklore, it was used to invigorate both body and mind, making it a fitting symbol for those born at the beginning of the year.

If you plan on growing your own, take care as peppermint is famously vigorous. Plant something like these peppermint seeds from Amazon in containers to stop it taking over your garden, and give it partial sun with consistently moist soil.

February – Fennel

Tall and feathery, fennel has ancient roots in protection and strength. It was once hung over doorways to ward off evil spirits, and associated with endurance and vitality, making it the ideal birth month herb for the quietly courageous February babies among us.

Fennel loves full sun and well-drained soil. usually, you'd need to give it space (it grows tall and doesn’t like root disturbance) but planting one of the more compact varieties, such as Burpee's Orion Hybrid, should help you get around this if you're working with a smaller plot.

March – Sage

Few herbs carry as much symbolic weight as sage. Long associated with wisdom, healing, and longevity, it was often planted near homes as a protective force, making it a particularly significant birth month herb for those deeply empathetic souls born in March.

Most gardeners will already know that sage thrives in dry, sunny spots with well-drained soil. Buy this multipack of sage seeds from Amazon, then, and plant up accordingly. Just take care to avoid overwatering;, as it prefers a slightly neglected approach.

April – Rosemary

In folklore, rosemary was the herb of remembrance, often used in weddings and funerals alike. Naturally, then, it represents the loyalty, love, and deep-rooted connection that those born in April are famed for.

Whether you plant seeds o buy something like the Tuscan Blue Rosemary from Nature Hills, this birth month herb needs full sun and excellent drainage. In cooler climates, consider growing it in pots so it can be brought indoors over winter.

May – Thyme

Once embroidered onto scarves for knights heading into battle, thyme has long symbolized courage. It’s low-growing but an incredibly powerful source of nectar, too – making it a must for those bold social butterflies born in May.

Thyme is one of the most forgiving birth month herbs on the list, as it thrives in poor, well-drained soil and full sun. It’s drought-tolerant and ideal for rock gardens or borders. Bag yourself an English Thyme Plant from Nature Hills, then, and watch the pollinators come a-flocking.

June – Lavender

Softly fragrant and instantly soothing, lavender has long symbolized peace, purity, and protection, and was often planted near homes to ward off negativity and promote restful sleep. Those born in June are thought to carry this same calming energy, and tend to be gentle yet resilient, quietly nurturing their relationships and creative pursuits.

Lavender loves full sun and dry, sandy soil, so avoid heavy watering to keep that Mediterranean-style environment it loves. And maybe give it the occasional trim to maintain its shape, too.

July – Parsley

This birth month herb is sometimes overlooked in modern kitchens, but parsley is a sleeper hit laden with rich symbolism tied to rebirth and vitality. Folklore also associates parsley with protection and cleansing, and it's ideal for July-born individuals.

Why? Because they're grounded, endlessly curious, full of optimism, and able to bring balance and refreshment to themselves and to those they care about. Plant Amazon's Parsley Seed Collection for your very own July baby, remembering that it prefers rich, consistently moist soil and partial to full sun.

August – Chamomile

Delicate yet surprisingly hardy, chamomile represents calm, healing, and inner strength – and was traditionally planted to attract positive energy and promote restful sleep. August babies reflect this, being gentle, approachable, and intuitive, with a knack for smoothing tensions and restoring harmony wherever they go.

Bag yourself some chamomile seeds from Amazon and plant them in full sun with light, well-drained soil. Trust us when we say the work will pay off, as it self-seeds easily, returning year after year with effortless beauty.

September – Dill

With its airy leaves and fragrant seeds, dill has long symbolized prosperity and protection, and was once upon a time used to ward off misfortune and invite good luck. Those born under this birth month herb, then, are often generous with their time, resources, and advice; thoughtful problem-solvers who value fairness and community.

Fancy growing this for your favorite September baby? Dill prefers full sun and well-drained soil, and, while it grows quickly, it really doesn’t transplant well. Take care, then, to sow seeds directly where you want it to flourish.

October – Catnip

Confession time: this writer is an October baby, so I have a personal stake in this one.

Obviously famous for delighting cats everywhere, catnip has a long history in herbal medicine as well as folklore, and is associated with curiosity, intuition, and a mischievous, playful spirit. October-born individuals (if I do say so myself!) often mirror these traits, being flexible, imaginative, and quick-witted types who thrive when allowed to explore, experiment, and follow their instincts.

This birth month herb is easy to grow in full sun or partial shade. Like mint, it can spread quickly, so plant your catnip seeds in a pot... and watch the local cats go wild.

November – Cayenne

Fiery and bold, cayenne pepper symbolizes passion, protection, and transformation, and was once used to stimulate circulation and ward off negativity. Those born in November, then, are often daring, energetic, and decisive, unafraid to challenge the status quo and sparking change wherever they go.

Obviously, cayenne peppers need warmth, sun, and a long growing season. Start your heirloom cayenne pepper seeds indoors if you're in a cooler USDA Planting Zone, and harvest carefully to enjoy their fiery punch.

December – Basil

Love, prosperity, and generosity are the order of the day with this birth month herb, as basil has long been associated with love, luck, and protection. Many cultures take things one step further, considering it sacred. No surprise, then, that December babies are often warm, generous, and fiercely loyal, with a natural ability to inspire devotion in others.

Basil thrives in warm conditions with plenty of sun and regular watering, although make sure you pinch back leaves to encourage bushy growth. If anything, it means you'll enjoy a continuous supply for cooking or tea.

Herb Growing Essentials:

Whether you plant them for their meaning, their delicious flavor, or their vital role in soothing herbal remedies, you've more than enough reasons to plant your birth month herb ASAP.

Nurturing any plant, after all, has long been considered the key to a happier and more mindful existence. Surely that improves tenfold when that plant is connected to you on a deeper, more symbolic level.

Bringing greenery indoors is nothing new, but there are ever-increasing ways to incorporate nature into our home design. Welcoming plants into our living environments can actually reduce stress levels. And they look great, too!

Biophilic design in homes uses plants and natural elements to nurture our mental and physical wellbeing. Plants can calm us and bring some much needed serenity to your indoor spaces. (Even fake plants can have a positive effect!)

The MITTZON frame from IKEA is a clever room divider that features planters so you can have a living wall in your home. This boost of green is sure to help you feel connected to the natural world.

The MITTZON planter allows you to divide up a larger space or give an area of your house a private, oasis-like makeover. Creating a living wall is often a pricey endeavor, but this budget-friendly frame is easier on the budget than a traditional living wall.

The casters on the base of MITTZON allow you to effortlessly move the planter so you can move plants closer to a window for a boost of light, or if you want to change your space and bring the verdant vibrancy to another room.

One thing that I particularly love is that this sturdy planter unit is more than 6 and half feet tall (205 cm)! It is a true room divider and living wall in one.

What to Grow in IKEA’s MITTZON Frame

MITTZON is the perfect solution for home chefs who want a convenient kitchen garden but don’t have the right outdoor space. You can grow herbs like thyme, rosemary, oregano, basil, marjoram, lavender, and more. Growing lettuces and salad greens in succession plantings will ensure you have a continual source of delicious leafy vegetables. And you can even grow a lovely dwarf tomato plant or two!

I would suggest adding some nice grow lights to the planter frame to ensure your veggies get enough light. These Barrina full-spectrum grow lights from Amazon have kept my plants and seedlings happy year after year.

If houseplants are more your vibe, MITTZON is a great planter for all of those low-light beauties. Plant ferns, ivy, spider plants, and philodendrons to add to the green wall effect. Their leaves and vines will drape down over the side of the planter boxes and really fill in the space. A serene and relaxing plant wall helps manage stress while also looking great.

More Options

In addition to IKEA’s MITTZON planter frame, there are some other wonderful options to use the vertical space in your home to display plants and create biophilic zones of relaxation.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Garlic is an undisputed king in the kitchen, and a tasty foundational ingredient in all manner of dishes. But in the garden, it’s often a victim of its own reputation. We’re told it’s easy and hardy, which leads many gardeners to fall into the "plant it and forget it" trap. You tuck those cloves into the soil in October, walk away, and expect giant, papery heads come July. And quite often… it can be underwhelming.

Here’s the cold, hard truth: it’s a myth that you can simply plant garlic cloves in the fall and leave them until harvest time. If you want bulbs that impress, you cannot leave them to fend for themselves in the winter. Right now, in the chilly February soil, your garlic is stirring. It’s transitioning from a sleepy winter slumber to a high-speed growth phase. You need to seize this moment to help it reach its full potential.

By being proactive this month, you aren't just feeding a plant, you are bulking up your future harvest. The secret is adding a fertilizer for garlic at the key moment to promote leafy, green growth and big bulbs. Here’s how to give your garlic the late-winter energy drink it’s craving.

February Wake-Up Call for Garlic

Using fertilizer for garlic plants is important because it won’t grow well in poor soil. Garlic is a heavy feeder, meaning it has an Olympic-sized appetite for nutrients. Even if you amended your soil beautifully in the fall, those nutrients have likely been washed away by winter rains or locked up by the cold.

Imagine waiting 8 months for a garlic harvest, only to pull up bulbs the size of marbles. That’s stunting, and it usually happens because the plant didn't have enough fuel during its spring stretch. February is the most critical time to intervene. This is especially true if your soil tends to be nutrient-poor.

February is when the garlic starts to wake up and transition from dormancy to rapid growth. So this late winter boost is critical. A one-time fed now pays off big time in a few months. By feeding now, you ensure the plant has a massive solar panel of green leaves. Remember, more leaves in March means bigger bulbs in July.

The Big Late Winter Energy Drink

So, what is your garlic craving in February as the roots spread, and the green leaves begin to grow? Answer: it wants nitrogen. This is the primary nutrient that supports green, leafy growth. Those leaves contain the chlorophyll that harnesses energy from the sun and feeds the plant directly.

While the bulb grows underground, it is entirely powered by the leafy greens above. It is the energy stored in the leaves that directly plumps up those bulbs. Nitrogen is the primary driver of that lush, green foliage. If your garlic develops small, yellowish, or spindly leaves now, it simply won't have the energy to swell those cloves later.

There is no fixing small garlic in June – the work happens now in February. Think of high-nitrogen fertilizer as a physical therapy session for your garlic after a long winter nap. Fertilizing garlic in February gets the circulation moving, and growth exploding.

Hardneck versus Softneck

Depending on your preferences and your climate, you might be growing hardneck or softneck garlic. The type of garlic you’re growing dictates how aggressive you should be with your February boost.

• Hardneck Garlic: These are the cold-climate superstars. Because they have a relatively short, intense growing window, they are the most desperate for that February nitrogen hit. Don't be shy, these hard-stalk garlic varieties need the fuel to produce those thick stalks, and eventually those delicious scapes.
• Softneck Garlic: Often grown in milder climates, these softer stalked options have a longer runway. While they definitely need a feed, they are a bit more sensitive to over-fertilizing. A steady, moderate hand is best here to avoid burning the plants with too much salt-based fertilizer.

Although they both benefit from a February feeding, you might want to tweak the plan based on the variety. When growing garlic in winter, a nitrogen application is most important for hardneck varieties. They have a shorter growing season, and really need that infusion of nutrients.

Shop Nitrogen Fertilizers for Garlic

In order to bulk up your garlic bulbs the right way, look at the N-P-K ratio (the three numbers on the bag). You want that first number (nitrogen) to be the highest. Organic feeds are especially effective while the soil is still cold. Consider these:

How to Feed Garlic in Cold Soil

In February, the soil can still be temperamental. You have two main pro-strategies. There may be some new leaf growth, but you won’t want to wait for the rapid growth stage. If your soil is cold, the easiest way to fertilize is by broadcasting.

If you have a thick layer of straw or woodchips, you can simply scatter granular fertilizer (like blood meal) right on top. As the February rains fall, they will carry the nutrients down to the root zone without you having to disturb the soil. This will provide a slow, time-released feed.

When you’re able to dig into the soil, you can do a side-dressing. Use a hand trowel or combi hand tool like the Garden Guru Hoe and Tiller from Amazon to create a shallow trench 3 inches (8 cm) from the garlic stems. Sprinkle fertilizer in the trench, cover it back up, and water it in. This puts the food where the roots can reach it.

And if you need a gentler feed for softneck varieties, use a balanced approach. You can buy All-In-One Organic: Espoma Organic Garden-tone (3-4-4) from Amazon.

Regional Tweaks for Bigger Bulbs

While February is the general rule for feeding garlic, your local micro-climate might have a part to play. Here’s how to adjust, based on where you’re digging:

• Frozen North (Zones 3-5): If your ground is an ice block in February, don’t panic. Your February feeding might happen in early March. Wait until the snow melts and you see the first tiny green beaks poking through the soil. That is your signal to broadcast blood meal on top of the remaining slush.
• Mild South (Zones 8-10): In warmer regions, your garlic likely never went fully dormant. By February, it might already be 10 inches (25 cm) tall. For you, this isn't just a wake-up call – it’s the main course. Ensure you are watering consistently after fertilizing, as southern Februarys can occasionally have dry, flash-drought spells that can stress the plants.
• Rainy Pacific Northwest: High rainfall in the PNW can leach nitrogen out of the soil faster than the plants can eat it. Instead of one big heavy feeding of granular fertilizer, consider two smaller snacks – one in early February and another in early March – using a liquid fish emulsion to ensure the nutrients are getting directly to the roots.
• High Plains & Mountain West: Your biggest enemy isn't just the cold; it’s the wind. If you are broadcasting fertilizer over mulch, make sure to water it in immediately or lightly scratch it into the soil surface. Otherwise, that expensive nitrogen might literally blow away into your neighbor’s yard.

Your February Garlic Checklist

Feeding is the priority for your plants in February, but it shouldn’t stop there. To ensure your garlic hits its full potential, tackle these 3 tasks before the month ends:

• Moving Mulch: If a warm spell hits, gently pull back some of your heavy winter mulch. This allows the sun to hit the soil directly, waking up the microbial life and warming the roots. If you need to refresh your mulch after feeding, use a high quality weed-free straw such as Blue Mountain Organic Garden Straw Mulch from Amazon.
• Aggressive Weeding: Garlic hates competition, and this is a point where it needs to feel like the boss in the patch. Any weed growing in February is stealing the nitrogen you just paid for. Get them out now while they’re small. Early and frequent weeding protects the garlic from being outcompeted for nutrients and water.
• Monitoring Soil Moisture: Garlic likes damp conditions, but not soggy feet. If you’ve had a dry winter, give plants a light drink. If it’s been a swamp, ensure your drainage is clear, so that the bulbs don't rot before they can grow.

Mark your calendar to stop all nitrogen feeding by late April or early May (whenever scapes begin to appear). Too much fertilizer at this point will delay bulb development. Keep watering your garlic plants until about 2 weeks before harvest time. Too much water at this point can reduce the quality of the bulbs. They’re ready to harvest when about half of the leaves have died back.

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

February and March are rough for home-grown flavor. Fall crops finished months ago. Spring plantings are still tiny seedlings or haven't even gone in the ground yet. Store-bought herbs taste like nothing and cost too much for what you get.

Hydroponic systems solve this by growing herbs indoors fast. No soil, no waiting for ground to thaw, no hoping outdoor temps cooperate. Basic hydroponics setups work on countertops or under grow lights, producing harvestable herbs in 3 to 4 weeks from seed. These seven herbs grow especially well hydroponically and deliver actual flavor when nothing else is available. Consistent indoor lighting also keeps growth predictable, which matters when outdoor daylight hours are still short and uneven.

1. Basil

Basil speeds ahead hydroponically – leaves pickable in 3 to 4 weeks from seed, aroma hitting strong right from the start. Genovese types hold up best, staying compact yet productive under typical indoor conditions. Smaller leaf varieties can work too, though they often need more frequent trimming to stay bushy.

Keep pH steady around 5.5 to 6.5, temps holding 70-75F (21-24C) – warmer spots speed growth but watch for stretch. Pinch growing tips every week or so for fuller bushes instead of tall spindles. Harvest outer leaves regularly – plants rebound fast, staying lush and useful clear through the dull months. Common issues like leaf spotting often tie to poor air flow; a small fan helps prevent that while also strengthening stems slightly. You can find basil seeds on Amazon.

2. Cilantro

Cilantro stretches its leafy run longer without soil, putting off bolting for extra weeks compared to garden pots. First solid harvest lands about 3 weeks from seed, flavor crisp and intense straight off the plant. Quick succession sowing every couple weeks keeps supply steady instead of all plants maturing at once.

Cooler temps keep cilantro growing happiest – 65-70F (18-21C) – while higher heat pushes flowers quick. Seeds handle tight spacing in net pots without trouble; thinner stands sometimes bolt sooner anyway. Snip outer leaves often to slow flowering and extend picks. Even when bolting hits, the seeds double as coriander for later use in curries or pickles. Light airflow helps reduce damping issues in crowded trays. You can order cilantro seeds from Amazon.

3. Parsley

Parsley takes its time sprouting – 2 to 3 weeks are not unusual – but growth surges once roots settle in the solution. Flat-leaf Italian packs more usable foliage than curly kinds, and flavor is deeper too. Picks start 5 to 6 weeks from seed. Pre-soaking seeds overnight can shorten germination slightly.

It shrugs off cooler conditions down to 60-65F (15-18C), needing less intense light than basil – good for shadier counters. Cut outer stems low at the base, center point keeps sending fresh growth round after round. Something like this Lettucegrow Nook hydroponic tower from Amazon holds several plants tidy on limited space. Yellowing leaves usually signal low iron; balanced nutrient mixes prevent that and occasional reservoir changes keep salts from building. Seeds can be found here on Amazon.

4. Mint

Mint charges forward aggressively once established – spearmint or peppermint varieties both explode in nutrient solution. Rooted cuttings yield in days, seeds around 5 to 6 weeks for full harvest. Even small starter pieces tend to root reliably if humidity stays moderate.

Contain mint separately or it overruns companions quick – roots spread fast in open systems. Temps 65-70F (18-21C) maintain tender leaves without toughness. Trim back often to curb flowers – steady nutrients deliver bolder flavor than typical soil pots. Occasional whitefly shows up; gentle water rinse knocks them out early, and sticky traps nearby can catch strays before they multiply. Get some mint seeds here from Amazon.

5. Chives

Chives stay dead simple to manage. Wide pH tolerance from 6.0 to 7.0, forgiving on conditions overall. Hollow onion leaves ready in roughly 4 weeks from seed, regrowth reliable. Dividing mature clumps every few months keeps blades from thinning.

Cooler spots down to 60F (15C) suit fine – lower heat keeps flavor mild. Shear leaves 2 inches (5cm) above base – regrowth pops back strong within days. Allow bolting for purple flowers if desired; they add mild onion lift to eggs or potatoes when nothing fresh grows yet. Clumping habit fills pots gradually for ongoing supply and rarely needs replanting. Chive seeds can be found here on Amazon.

6. Dill

Dill climbs tall and feathery fast, harvestable fronds in 4 to 5 weeks from seed. Fresh dill outshines dried versions easily – sharp for fish, dressings, or quick pickles on winter meals. Shorter “bouquet” types stay more compact indoors if height becomes an issue.

Strong light stays essential – 12 to 16 hours daily under bulbs or bright windows to prevent weak stems. Temps 60-70F (15-21C) keep pace steady without rush to bolt. Pick outer fronds carefully, preserve the central tip for continued production. Bolting eventually brings dill seed, but leafy stage lasts solid weeks first with good management and regular trimming delays flowering slightly. Grab some dill seeds from Amazon.

7. Arugula

Arugula races quickest, tender baby leaves in just 3 weeks – one of the speediest options overall. Peppery bite revives winter salads when greens seem far off, intensity building as plants mature. Frequent small harvests keep texture softer and less fibrous.

Cooler range 60-65F (15-18C) holds bitterness back longer. Harvest outer leaves at 2 to 3 inches (5-8cm), center continues pushing waves. Something like these full-spectrum grow lights from Amazon supplies the intensity leafy crops crave indoors. Overcrowding sometimes invites aphids; spacing helps airflow, and quick rinses under cool water clear early infestations before they spread. You can find arugula seeds on Amazon.

Getting Started with Hydroponic Herbs

Simple setups keep entry easy and cheap. The Kratky method uses static nutrient solution in jars or buckets – net pots hang above, roots drink down as levels drop, no pumps or timers needed beyond lights. Opaque containers help block algae growth, which can otherwise compete for nutrients.

Start limited with forgiving plants like basil or mint to grasp the rhythm – success builds confidence quick. Test pH weekly early; patterns show fast once running. Refresh solution every couple weeks to clear buildup and prevent deficiencies. Small adjustments yield big payoffs in vivid flavor through the quiet season, turning basic meals into something worth sitting down for. Nutrient strength starts dilute for seedlings, ramps up as plants establish, and keeping a simple notebook of mixes makes repeat results easier.

Winter can feel like a tricky time for herbs, as we tend to associate many of our favorites with glorious sunshine and prolonged stretches of heat, neither of which is in big supply in winter months! But that doesn’t mean we can’t enjoy delectable herb flavors now – in fact, plant up the right evergreen herbs for a prime spot in a winter container, and you can make that planting partnership work for us all year round.

The right winter herb container combination keeps fresh flavors close at hand when everything else outdoors goes quiet. Evergreen rosemary, sage, and creeping thyme stay green and usable through frost and short days, giving early edibles long before spring bulbs even poke up. These Mediterranean natives share similar growing needs, so planting them together makes sense. Growing herbs in containers means you can then move them to shelter during hard freezes, extending the harvest. ​​These herbs tolerate cold better together, sharing warmth in the pot, and creating a microclimate of protected humidity.

This evergreen herb container combo looks sharp, too, stealing inspiration from a classic container planting recipe – the ‘thriller, filler, spiller’ trick. Here’s how to make the most of this simple yet effective planting hardy herb trio for year-round herbal potency.

Selecting Your Evergreen Herbs

‘Thriller, filler, spiller’ is a classic yet innovative planting recipe when planning perennial herbs for pots. It is based on the idea of a focal or vertical plant, a trailing plant, and a plant dedicated to mounding or bushiness to fill the space. In our herbal planting ‘thriller, spiller, filler’ trio, tall rosemary grabs attention up top, sage mounds in the middle for texture, and thyme trails over the edges. You can grow these herbs from seed, cuttings, or young plants.

These perennial herbs are perfect for pots, and with a little TLC they can endure across the whole year. The scents are guaranteed to hit every time the wind shifts, and those moreish herbs are grouped so you always have something to reach for. Here’s how this particular trio of year round herbs works best in this arrangement:

• Rosemary: Start with a strong upright rosemary for the thriller role. Varieties like 'Arp' or 'Hill Hardy' can shrug off temperatures down to 0°F once established. The stiff branches reach 2-3 feet (60-90 cm), releasing that piney scent whenever brushed. One healthy plant anchors the whole design. You can buy fragrant ‘Tuscan Blue’ Rosemary from Burpee as a live plant.
• Sage: Sage fills the middle nicely, with broad, velvety leaves in soft gray-green forming low mounds around the rosemary base. Common culinary sage (Salvia officinalis) is a workhorse, but for extra winter color, consider 'Purpurascens' for dusty purple hues or 'Tricolor' for splashes of white and pink. Two plants create fullness without overwhelming. Buy Purple Sage from Burpee as live plants.
• Thyme: Creeping thyme makes a gorgeous spiller. Low-growing types like 'Elfin' or woolly thyme form tight mats that cascade 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) over the rim. Plant 4-5 clumps around the edges, and they root outward fast and soften hard pot lines. Buy Creeping Thyme ‘Magic Carpet’ Seeds from Amazon.

Choosing Container and Location

Size matters when grouping multiple perennial herbs for containers. Use something at least 18-24 (45-60 cm) inches across and just as deep. That gives individual herb plant roots plenty of room to spread without crowding through winter.

Frost-proof options for container gardening with hardy herbs include thick plastic, fiberglass, or glazed ceramic to prevent cracking when water freezes inside pores. A lovely glazed option for your container-based herb garden is the Reactive Glaze Peacock Pot from Amazon, which is durable and comes with a drainage hole. Plain terracotta works in milder spots, but might split after a few extreme weather cycles.

Drainage holes are non-negotiable. Raise the pot off the ground using pot feet or even simple bricks. This prevents the drainage holes from freezing shut against a cold patio and ensures water can escape. You can buy invisible pot toes or hard-to-spot feet such as Choclaif Pot Feet for Outdoor Plants, available from Amazon, to elevate pots for drainage while preventing stains and water damage.

Location-wise, tuck the container against a south-facing wall. Reflected heat helps on cold nights, and wind breaks keep foliage from drying out too fast. When positioning your trio of hardy herb plants in one pot, aim for 6 solid hours of sun per day. Even weak winter light keeps these herbs ticking along.

Preparing the Soil Mix

These herbs hate wet feet, which can lead to root rot in cold, dormant months. Blend a fast-draining mix: half quality potting soil, a quarter perlite or pumice, and a quarter coarse sand or poultry grit. Avoid using too much peat, which can get waterlogged in winter. Add a handful of rich compost for slow-moving nutrients, but keep it light overall. The finished mix should feel gritty between your fingers, ensuring that roots breathe easy. Pre-mixed potting soils like my personal favorite, FoxFarm Forest Potting Soil from Amazon, will also work well.

Avoid straight garden soil, though. It compacts and holds moisture through cold spells. Pre-moisten the blend slightly before filling, so it pours easier and settles evenly around the roots. You should find that 20–30 quarts of potting soil plus amendments usually covers a large container. Leftover mix stores fine for spring touch-ups. You can add a little grit or perlite, such as Espoma Organic Perlite from Amazon, to enhance the drainage of your chosen potting soil mix.

Planting Step by Step

Lay your plants out on a work bench or table first. Arrange the thriller slightly back to account for the wall behind it, then have fillers circling, and spillers at the front and sides. This visual check should prevent any awkward repositioning later.

Fill the pot two-thirds with prepared mix. Set the rosemary deepest, since it grows tallest, and make sure the crown is at soil level. Firm gently. Add sage next, spacing evenly so the leaves touch, but don’t overlap yet. Good air circulation between the leaves is vital to prevent mildew in damp winter air. Tuck your thyme near the rim, angling the roots slightly outward for quick cascading. Then backfill, pressing soil to remove air pockets.

Water slowly, until the fluid runs clear from drainage holes; settling should happen naturally. Top-dress with fine gravel or small pebbles, or a little organic bark mulching, such as Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch from Amazon. This mulch keeps crowns dry, cuts splashing (which prevents soil-borne diseases hitting the leaves), and gives a finished look that lasts for months.

Winter Care and Protection

Watering needs to shift down in cold weather. Check every 10-14 days, and stick a finger two inches (5cm) deep. Put simply, dry soil means you should water, while damp soil means you need to wait. In order to avoid one of the classic watering mistakes, try to always hydrate in the morning, so plants have time to absorb the moisture before the temperature drops at night. Overwatering is the biggest killer, especially when temperatures hover near freezing.

Frost protection varies by USDA planting zone. In milder areas, the right wall spot ought to suffice. Heap evergreen boughs or straw around the base for insulation. Farther north, wrap pots in bubble wrap or burlap during single-digit nights to protect the root ball. My personal favorite addition is the Warm Farm Insulated Plant Pot Cover, available from Amazon in double packs for a welcome layer outdoors. It’s only necessary to move containers indoors to an unheated garage or porch during extended bouts of brutal cold. Otherwise, herbs handle short dips outdoors with natural air circulation a lot better than extended sessions in a stuffy, dark room.

Harvesting Through the Season

Snip rosemary sprigs for roasts or tea all winter. You should find the flavor intensifies during colder spells. Sage leaves fry crisp for holiday dishes, or steep soothing when throats get scratchy. Thyme stems drop whole into soups and stews, and are easy to fish out later. Harvesting these edibles encourages new growth even in slow months.

The golden rule for winter harvesting is this: never take more than one-third of the plant at once. Bear in mind that herbs grow back much slower in the cold. Use sharp snips or scissors, such as Fiskars Herb Garden Scissors from Amazon, rather than pulling by hand to avoid disturbing the roots while they are semi-dormant. By February, fresh tips emerge faster than anything sown from seed. Store-bought bunches can’t match the bright taste picked minutes before cooking. This container keeps delivering until it’s time to refresh for summer annuals.

Evergreen Herb Essentials

Now you’ve got this winter herb container recipe, it’s time to start your year-round edible planter! Make sure you hit the ground running with these evergreen container essentials for well-fed, well-draining herbal trios.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Gardening can often feel like a waiting game, and as the year starts, spring may seem light years away. But if you want to squeeze some viable growing opportunities into these sleepy, dark winter weeks, a kitchen window herb garden is a great way to manifest some fast homegrown indoor color – and flavor. While the garden outside is still slumbering, your kitchen can be a productive hub of green growth.

If you fancy cultivating some easy wins ahead of spring and you’re willing to grow them indoors, windowsill gardening is your ticket to fast-growing flavor – and these 4 herbs skip to the head of the line. You don’t need a greenhouse, just a sunny windowsill, pots, and potting soil. These herbs are fuss-free, grow fast, and can be ready to enjoy in a matter of weeks from planting for super early spring herbs.

Growing herbs in containers will brighten up your kitchen quickly, and very soon your cooking, too. They provide that hit of fresh, zesty flavor that winter cooking often craves. A mini herb garden for kitchen window crops ahead of spring is about choosing “speed demons” – herbs that germinate quickly and tolerate lower light levels. Here are 4 of the best herbs to start in January for guaranteed harvests by March.

Herbs for Quick Wins on Your Kitchen Window

I’m a firm believer that a kitchen feels more alive with something edible growing in it. I’m also a great fan of herb gardens, and tend to have one going all year long. To get from seed to plate in under eight weeks, I’ve selected four kitchen garden favorites for a windowsill garden based on their vigor (that’s gardener-speak for fast and healthy growth). These are some of the easiest herbs to grow from seed, and they practically grow themselves: sweet basil, cilantro, mint, and chives.

January light is admittedly a little weak. Rotate containers by 90 degrees every few days. This prevents herbs from leaning too far toward the glass and becoming leggy or straggly. Grow on a south-facing windowsill if possible. Failing that, a simple LED grow light can give your burgeoning indoor herb kitchen the best chance of developing flourishing harvests by March. Go for a full-spectrum option such as the Fecida Full Spectrum Indoor Light with Adjustable Height from Amazon.

1. Sweet Basil

Bright, beautiful basil leaves are aromatic and add a fresh, herbaceous flavor to salads, sauces, and soups. With its vibrant green leaves and intoxicating aroma, basil is a “pinch pro” favorite and a culinary staple. It’s used in a variety of cuisines, including Italian, Thai, and Indian. And it’s a great choice if you want an herb that grows fast and smells amazing while doing it.

Place it in a south-facing window that gets 6-8 hours of bright light daily, or use grow lights. Grow in well-draining soil, and water when the top of the soil is dry. Basil germinates in as little as 5 days, turns into a seedling in 2 weeks, and is ready for harvesting in as little as 4 weeks. Great varieties for your kitchen herb garden include ‘Windowbox’ varieties and ‘Genovese Sweet Basil’, available as seeds from Amazon. These varieties are bred to stay bushy and lush, rather than getting leggy as they reach for the weak January sun.

To guarantee the lushest growth and tastiest crops, once your basil has three sets of leaves, pinch the center stem off just above the top set. This feels counterintuitive, but it forces the plant to double its stems, giving you a bushier plant and a larger harvest by March. You can effectively double your harvest every time you snack. Once the plant reaches maturity, it can be harvested frequently.

2. Cilantro

Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) looks a little like parsley, but it’s fragrant, strong and citrusy, making a great addition to salads, chili, and Mexican dishes. Its bright green leaves look delicate and lacy, but cilantro is no prima donna – and it’s famously fast to cultivate, so it’s more than happy in your late winter kitchen garden.

Choose slow-bolting varieties such as ‘Santo’ or ‘Leisure’ which won’t rush to turn into flowers (and bitter leaves) the moment they get a little stressed. You can also buy slow-to-bolt ‘Calypso’ as seeds from Burpee. Sow in light, well-draining soil in a spot that gets at least 4 hours of sun each day. Gently crushing the husks before planting or soaking them in lukewarm water for 24 hours can help speed up germination.

You can harvest young leaves just 3 weeks after planting. The entire lifecycle from seed to mature cilantro averages 30-45 days. Cilantro is a great succession plant, and if you sow a fresh pinch of seeds every couple of weeks, you can enjoy never-ending harvests right through summer into fall.

3. Mint

Many of us hesitate to include mint in the veggie garden since it spreads like wildfire. But contain that vigor in a pot by your windowsill, and it’s a very different proposition. That rapid growth makes it an early-season winner for kitchen gardens. With its refreshing aroma and lively flavor, mint is a powerhouse herb that flourishes with very little effort. In terms of mint varieties, ‘Peppermint’ is classic, but for an indoor treat, buy ‘Chocolate Mint’ from Burpee in packs of seeds. It smells like a peppermint patty and thrives in pots.

Just fill the container with well-draining soil and keep it consistently moist but never wet. Mint is also less bothered by tricky light situations. It is incredibly resilient to the fluctuating temperatures of a January kitchen and can thrive in partial shade. It grows rapidly, and spreads even more quickly. Get ready for quick germination; sprouts appear in just a week, and plants mature 6 weeks from sowing. Once your mint is established, simply snip off leaves for crops as needed. Mint grows back fast after every harvest.

4. Chives

Chives are a fantastic choice for your indoor herb garden, germinating in less than a week, and ready for snipping within 4 weeks. The ultimate low maintenance plants, they are also cut-and-come-again heroes. The more you snip, the more they seem to produce. It’s like growing a mild green onion you can snip again and again. This herb, with its delicate flavor, is a particular delight in creamy dressings and butters.

Chives are really easy to grow indoors. They handle the cooler air near a windowpane better than most. If you have a clump of chives in your garden frozen outside, you can dig up a small plug, pot it, and bring it inside to force it into early growth. Otherwise, sow seeds thickly. You can buy Common Chives from Amazon as packs of seeds for indoor winter pots.

These indoor herbs grow fast in rich, well-draining soil, placed in a spot with 3-6 hours of full sun per day. After they mature, regular snipping leads to bushy growth. When harvesting, always leave at least an inch of green stem above the soil; this allows the plant to recharge and regrow rapidly.

Considerations for Early Herbs

When planting herbs indoors in January, picking low-maintenance, fast-growing varieties just makes sense. You get fast-growing edibles and garnishes brightening up the kitchen, as well as early season microgreens for snacks. To help your herb garden flourish and mature quickly, just follow these important care tips:

1. Most herbs do best with moist soil. But the moment ‘moist’ turns to ‘soggy’ your herbs will not be happy, as they hate wet feet. Make sure pots have adequate drainage holes to prevent root rot, and pick well-draining soil so herbs don’t hold on to water. Use a dedicated mix for seeds like Espoma Organic Seed Starter Premium from Amazon which is light and fluffy for tiny January roots to breathe.
2. Herbs do not need heavy feeding. Many don’t require any at all. So if you want to fertilize, use a gentle water-soluble fertilizer once a month at most, like Organic Plant Magic Water Soluble Plant Food from Amazon. And maintain proper watering. Don’t flood the herbs every day. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry.
3. The great thing about container gardens indoors is that you can control the temperatures. Keep the temperature moderate, avoiding drastic temperature changes and prevent overnight drafts. Avoid the radiator trap if growing away from the kitchen window. While herbs like warmth, sitting directly above a roaring radiator will dry them out in hours. Aim for a spot that stays around 18-21°C (65-70°F).

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

I’m sure I’m not alone in saying that, by the time January arrives, my home feels heavy with the aftermath of December. The decorations are slowly coming down, there are crumbs in all sorts of impossible places (I blame the toddler), and mentally, I’m still carrying the noise of Christmas – the gatherings, the expectations, the constant doing. It’s at this point that I reach for peppermint.

Yes, our herb garden may be hibernating right about now, but if you’ve filled yours with hardy herbs (or simply been trimming herbs and saving them for later), now is the time for yours to shine.

Why? Well, because burning peppermint is one of those small but grounding rituals to turn to at the beginning of the year that actually boasts one added, very tangible benefit: pest control.

Why I Burn Peppermint

Traditionally, peppermint has long been used to deter pests, which feels practical after a season of extra food, sweet treats, and sticky fingers.

For me, though, it’s just as much about intention as it is about function. Which means, sure, I always burn peppermint in January because its sharp, clean scent immediately cuts through that post-holiday fog and makes the house feel lighter and fresher – but it also gives me an internal shake-up, too.

Peppermint burning essentials:

While you could cheat and use something like this peppermint candle from Amazon for this job, a bundle of homegrown herbs always feels a little more bewitching (can you tell I’ve watched Practical Magic one too many times in my life?), and luckily peppermint is one of the easiest herbs to grow indoors, making it ideal even for beginners.

In fact, I’d go so far as to say the mere act of growing peppermint on a sunny windowsill feels quietly hopeful when the garden outside feels dormant and bare.

How To Burn Peppermint Safely

Using something like Fiskars' Herb Garden Scissors, available on Amazon, then, clip a few sprigs from your peppermint, and let them dry in a warm place for a week. Then, toss them into your fireplace or bundle them together with cotton string, light the tip, let them smoulder, and waft the smoke gently with a fireproof bowl beneath. You could also scatter a few in a bowl near a heat source to release their aroma naturally

Sometimes I bruise a few fresh mint leaves between my fingers before lighting a candle, breathing in the scent straight from the plant. It’s a sensory reset: one that feels grounding, calming, and invigorating all at once.

Whichever route you go for, always, always, always make sure you’ve extinguished your peppermint properly in sand or water when you’re done, and open a window to let fresh air circulate.

January can feel bleak and directionless, especially after the intensity of the holidays. Burning peppermint (and growing it) becomes a reminder, though, that renewal doesn’t have to be dramatic. You don’t need a full reset or a grand plan. Sometimes, it’s enough to clear the air, tend something living, and set a quiet intention to begin again.

Honestly, though? Anything that helps me feel more focused and grounded – ready to think about what I want the year ahead to hold, rather than reacting to the one I’ve just lived through – is enough for me. And if it comes with the added bonus of scaring pests away? I’m a very happy woman.

Nothing says holiday cheer like beautiful aromas wafting through your warm, cozy house. This year I am trying something new to me: a simmer pot (I know, I am late to the party!). Simmer pots are basically a stovetop potpourri that fills your home with holiday fragrance.

You can use fresh or dried elements from your potpourri herb garden or indoor countertop herb garden. Simply bring water to a boil in your favorite saucepot on the stove, add your ingredients and reduce to a simmer. It’s as simple as that! You can use herbs, dried flowers, spices, and fresh fruits to create any combination you’d like.

Here are some simmer pot recipes that I am excited to try this winter with rosemary, thyme, lavender, and sage from my herb garden. Try these recipes as is or change them up. There is no right or wrong way to do it.

1. Rosemary Simmer Pot Recipe

I have a small rosemary plant growing on my kitchen windowsill and love to add it to my cooking. Rosemary has a long history of medicinal use in addition to its culinary uses. In this simmer pot recipe, the rosemary’s earthy and invigorating aroma pairs nicely with the sweetness of the other ingredients. It smells just like Christmas with the addition of vanilla!

• 3-4 apples slices
• 3-4 orange slices
• 2 sticks cinnamon
• 4 rosemary sprigs
• 1/2 tsp cloves
• 1/4 tsp vanilla extract

2. Thyme Simmer Pot Recipe

Thyme will shine in this recipe that also features lemon and peppercorns. The spicy, woodsy aroma will waft through your home and add an herbal freshness.

• 3-4 orange slices
• 3-4 lemon slices
• 4 thyme sprigs
• 2 sticks cinnamon
• 1 tsp of peppercorns

3. Lavender & Sage Simmer Pot Recipe

Lavender and sage might seem like an unlikely pair, but they balance each other beautifully in this recipe. The fresh floral scent of lavender is tempered by the warm, earthy aroma of the sage. I have lavender and sage in my front garden and this recipe brings the scent of my summer garden inside for a reminder of warmth on the coldest days of the year.

• 2-3 sprigs fresh or dried lavender from your garden
• 2-3 leaves of fresh or dried sage
• 3-4 slices of lemon
• 1/2 tsp cloves

Simmer pots are a wonderful way to use the bounty of your spring and summer gardens during the winter months. Use anything that you love to create your own recipes! Calendula, chamomile, eucalyptus, hibiscus, bay leaves, juniper, pine, rose, mint, and cranberries are all great additions.

Simmer pot recipes make for a thoughtful Christmas gift or hostess gift, too! Place dried herbs, dried fruits like citrus, and spices together in a jar or small bag and the recipient just needs to boil some water to have the scents of the season fill their home.

Simmer Pot Essentials

Don’t have an herb garden yet, but excited to try a simmer pot? Here are some products to get you started!

You know a woody rosemary when you see one. Stems harden, needles drop lower down, and the top can start to look sparse. While it can look a little sorry for itself, it can help to know that this happens to every rosemary plant over time. Knowing how to revive a rosemary plant starts with smart winter pruning that removes dead tips without killing the bush. You can rejuvenate rosemary quite easily by trimming just the right amount in late winter, then rooting some cuttings as backups.

Having the proper rosemary care keeps many problems away for longer, but older plants will eventually need this vital revival in order to keep those gorgeous fragrant oils flourishing at their best. Light pruning and rooting new starts can turn tired bushes into productive plants again – and late winter works best before sap rises. So commit to undertake a few smart cuts now in order to bring back your trusty rosemary’s bushy growth, faithful fragrance, and intense, moreish flavor by spring.

Why Woody Stems Reduce Flavor

A woody rosemary plant doesn’t just look a little sad and underwhelming. The more wood you see on a plant, the greater the chances that its natural aromas will be diminished. Woody stems mean that the plant focuses its energy on structure instead of new growth. Needles stay only at the tips, the flavor weakens, and the bush just looks tired. Old wood rarely sprouts again, and any pruning made into old wood just leaves scars.

The oils that give rosemary its sharp pine taste concentrate in fresh tips. Bare stems produce almost none, so any sprigs you steal for culinary purposes will lose their punch. Bushes over 4-5 years old will often hit this point, especially with rosemary grown in pots where roots can crowd. Flavor drops fast once woodiness takes over. The lower branches feel rough and dry, snapping easily instead of bending.

You may notice the change gradually – one season the plant fills a pot with abundance, and the next it looks sleepy and weather worn. Cold winters can speed this process. Frost damages the soft tips, leaving woody stubs behind. The cycle repeats until the bush barely produces usable leaves. At this point, rejuvenation of rosemary is essential. The good news is that it is also quite straightforward to revive rosemary, and winter is a great time to take action.

Why Late Winter is Best

It’s a great idea to prune rosemary in late winter (February or early March in most zones) right before new growth starts. Cold weather settles, but sap hasn't risen yet. Cuts heal clean without frost damage or summer stress. The plant stays dormant enough to handle surgery, then pushes new shoots hard in spring.

Pruning woody rosemary plants is best after the last hard freeze, but before buds swell. Fall pruning invites dieback and summer cuts burn in heat. Late winter timing feels perfect and the bush recovers fast. In mild zones, January works, while in colder spots, it’s wise to wait until March. The plant might look ragged after pruning, but patience pays off, and you should see thick new growth by May.

Skip pruning one year, and woodiness doubles the next. So it’s worth giving herbs a haircut on an annual basis to create the healthiest plant shape, vitality and oil production. Use sharp, clean pruners like Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Amazon, which cut cleanly through stems up to an inch (2.5cm) thick.

Prune to Green Revival

A good grasp of the pruning basics will make the process smart and safe. Look for green under the bark. Scrape lightly with a fingernail. Cut just above live wood, removing dead tips and leggy growth. Never cut into old brown stems, as they won't regrow. Take shears and snip back to where needles still grow thick, leaving two-thirds of the plant. Shape lightly for air flow; the bush will fill in bushy by summer.

Use sharp bypass pruners like your Fiskars models (or alternatively models by Felco, Corona or Okatsune) for clean cuts that heal quickly. Disinfect blades with alcohol between plants. The trimmed bush looks sparse at first, but new growth can potentially explode in weeks. Feed lightly after pruning with a balanced fertilizer like Happy Herbs General Purpose Organic Fertilizer from Amazon to boost root growth and natural oil production.

If growing herbs in containers, don’t forget to check the pot has good drainage. The plant should feel lighter, then heavy again as leaves return. Thin crowded centers so light reaches inside. Disease risk drops when air moves freely. A second light trim in midsummer keeps shape without stressing the plant.

Rosemary Propagation Backup Plan

Root plant cuttings while pruning. Winter wood roots slower than with cuttings made in summer, but rooting still works. Snip 4-6 inch (10-15cm) tips with green growth, strip lower leaves, and dip in rooting hormone. Stick cuttings in damp perlite or seed-start mix like FoxFarm Light Warrior Seed Starter Growing Medium from Amazon. A humidity tray can help to keep humidity high. Bottom heat speeds things up, too, so use a mat set to 70°F (21°C). Add a grow light dedicated to promoting early growth like the Epic Gardening Grow Light with Full Spectrum LED from Amazon. Roots form in 4-8 weeks, and you can pot up once strong.

By propagating rosemary now, any new plants can replace old bushes completely if your revival attempt fails. The cuttings should feel firm once rooted, ready for the garden or larger pots. Grow several extras and turn some into gifts, as well as some for insurance. Potted rosemary overwinters better when young and vigorous. The new bushes start producing usable sprigs in months. Layering works, too; bend a low branch to the soil, then pin it down, and it should root while attached.

Winter Care Essentials

Pruning woody rosemary and propagating fresh rosemary plants from cuttings, make sure you have these key cultivation essentials for continued health and vitality.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Winter mornings tend to show the herb garden at its worst. Bare stems poke up where annuals stood, frost has hammered everything tender, and the whole bed feels finished for the year. But then, winter savory catches my eye. Rub a leaf, and the sharp, warm scent cuts straight through the cold air. These winter hardy herbs turn ordinary winter suppers into meals you can actually look forward to, and are glorious in cold weather cooking when other flavors are becoming more scarce. But it’s such a quiet, overlooked herb, it’s possible you don’t have it, which is a pity.

This hardy, peppery plant earns its keep with hardly any effort at all. Give it full sun and soil that doesn’t stay wet, and it will happily settle in for the long haul. Growing winter savory (Satureja montana) starts with the right placement, and ends with years of reliable harvests. Delightfully, cold only makes the leaves of the winter savory herb taste stronger. Here’s how to get the most from this little-known yet flavorful cold-hardy perennial for exquisite kitchen garden concoctions.

Why Grow Winter Savory

As winter herbs go, this industrious little plant really holds its own at this nippy time of year. Basil turns to black mush, and parsley flops over the minute real frost hits. Winter savory is the stubborn exception, still pushing flavor when the garden looks like a graveyard. It isn’t just a herb that survives winter, it actively leans into it, packing more punch as nights drop below freezing. This evergreen herb elevates winter cooking, turning those long, dark stretches into something well worth sitting down for.

These perennial herbs are great for pots and for growing in the ground. Winter savory grows into a tidy dome, rarely more than a foot (30.5cm) high, each piece of glossy foliage toughened just enough to handle bitter cold. Brush a leaf and its scent snaps awake – exuding a peppery warmth up front, that faint pine note right behind it, then a flavor that hangs around longer than expected. It’s the kind of aroma that makes you imagine a roasting pan already in the oven.

Garden bees find their small white or pale blush summer blooms without fail, and once they fade the plant shifts its attention fully to winter survival. Even when every basil and marjoram has melted into the soil, this little herb stands strong, leaves still bright and ready to use. You can buy these winter hardy herbs as live plants, or you can grow winter savory seeds. Get Winter Savory Live Plants from Burpee or buy seeds such as Seed Needs’ Winter Savory Seeds from Amazon.

This fragrant evergreen winter plant is hardy through USDA zone 5 (and zone 4 with a little straw tucked around the base), and it thickens and improves every year. Older stems pick up a woody backbone, giving the plant the look of a miniature evergreen in the herb bed. Honestly, a winter savory plant looks good even when you’ve forgotten about it for weeks. Snip sprigs whenever the kitchen calls, and fresh growth springs back fast. Dry small bunches somewhere dark and airy, and even months later the leaves pack a serious punch. Many cooks prefer winter savory over summer savory, specifically because that strength keeps up during long, bubbling braises.

How to Grow Winter Savory

Cultivating these plucky winter herbs is delightfully simple. Place your winter savory herb in full sun on soil that drains freely. If you have amended your soil in fall, you should not have to make elaborate adjustments for winter savory. Wet roots spell trouble, much more than cold. Ordinary garden soil works fine. Indeed, extra fertility might create weak, sprawling growth that suffers in the winter wet. Set plants a foot (30.5cm) apart and let them slowly fill the space, forming a low, tidy row that’s easy to reach during icy weather.

A light sprinkle of gravel or fine bark like Fine Pine Bark Nuggets, available from Amazon, around the base keeps this savory winter herb tidy without trapping moisture. In the coldest climates, toss a little loose straw on once the ground freezes and peel it away as spring returns. This container-friendly herb also thrives in wide, shallow pots like Laergin Terracotta Pots from Amazon which drain fast. Slide containers near a warm wall when temperatures plummet. The flavor gets bolder after a real frost. Clip entire sprigs whenever you want them, and the plant hardly notices. Regular light trims actually encourage a thicker, more productive mound.

Healthy starter plants will get your kitchen garden patch going fast. You can start living winter savory in small pots like these 4-Inch Terracotta Pots from Amazon. They will transplant easily and grow vigorously. Winter savory seeds are slower, but if started early indoors under lights, they’ll settle in once warm weather arrives. Winter savory is a great choice for beginner herb gardeners, because this easy herb asks so little and returns so much.

To make even more of this herb winter savory can be divided to create new plants. Divide established clumps every few years if the center starts looking bare. New pieces root without complaint and keep the planting productive. Divisions make lovely gifts for fellow gardeners who may think winter means the end of fresh herbs.

Culinary Uses for Winter Savory

Winter savory belongs in any edible herb garden and with anything that cooks for hours. Drop whole sprigs into bean soups, lentil stews, or pork shoulder early on. The flavor spreads, softens, and deepens. Fish the stems out at the end, the way you do bay leaves. Cabbage, root vegetables, and legumes all welcome the sharp warmth. This unusual culinary herb also stands up beautifully to fatty meats, cutting through richness without overpowering the dish.

Just before dough hits the oven, fold in a handful of minced leaves, so the herbal heat rises with the bread. Dried savory swaps perfectly for fresh. If you can’t wait to grow yours before that first culinary rush, you can grab bags of Spice Way Dried Winter Savory Herbs from Amazon. Crumble it right over the pot to wake up the oils. Stir chopped leaves into softened butter with lemon zest, roll into a log, freeze it tight, and slice pieces onto hot vegetables for instant comfort. The aroma alone can turn a simple dinner into something that feels a little more deliberate.

A jar of dried winter savory waits fragrantly for nights too cold to step outside. These 12-Pack Amber Jars from Amazon are a lovely choice. A pinch wakes up mushroom soup or split-pea potage in seconds. Blend savory with garlic and coarse salt for a quick seasoning that works on everything from roast carrots to pan-seared fish.

Scatter minced leaves over polenta, or stir them into goat cheese for an instant spread on dark bread. The same leaves folded into biscuit dough give a quiet pepper note that makes winter breakfast feel special. Even a basic omelet becomes a small celebration when you add a sprig or two from this plant that never quits on you.

Winter Savory Essentials

These cold-hardy herbs are undemanding and reassuringly resilient during the winter months. You only need a few cultivation essentials to keep winter savory at its best.

Need more ideas for gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice, delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Every summer I try to grow herbs and lettuce in my vegetable garden and they are always destroyed by squirrels and birds within a week or two of planting. This year I decided to try out an indoor growing station and I am blown away by the results.

The Click & Grow Smart Garden 9 is supremely easy to use and a mess-free way to grow herbs and salad greens indoors. It grows delicious cherry tomatoes, too! I’ve tested it over the last 4 months and it is so low-maintenance it feels illegal. (Smart Garden 9 is also on sale on Amazon for the holidays!)

In my raised bed vegetable garden, I am constantly battling insect and animal pests and struggling with irrigation systems to keep things going while I am out of town. Not to mention spending lots of money on my water bill through the extremely hot summers we have had lately. But using this indoor growing system is so much more relaxing than my raised bed veggie garden. I just fill up the water reservoir every week or so, and it takes care of itself.

Features of the Smart Garden 9

The Smart Garden 9 from Click & Grow has been a game changer for me. I always want to grow a countertop herb garden or grow lettuce on my kitchen windowsill but I just don’t have the space in my kitchen. My kitchen also doesn’t get enough light throughout the day. This growing system has its own built-in grow light so it can be placed anywhere in your house. The lights are on a timer, too, and shut off automatically after 16 hours every day.

I also love how easy it is to set up and grow delicious produce. The initial set up took me about 10 minutes – and that included reading the instructions and deciding which plants I wanted to grow first. Planting tomatoes, lettuce greens, herbs and flowers with this system is as easy as putting a coffee pod into a capsule coffee machine. Open the pre-seeded plant pods, pop them into the reusable grow cups, and click them into place in the Smart Garden. Extremely easy and completely mess free. This is a great product for complete beginners or garden experts looking for an easy, automated growing system.

The Smart Garden 9 is also extremely attractive. It’s sleek, simple design fits seamlessly into any home and it comes in three colors. The clean lines accentuate the beautiful produce it grows and my friends who are plant fanatics have all commented on how cool it looks!

Watering your plants in this growing station is quick and easy, too. The reservoir holds a generous amount of water which is wicked up through the bottom of the pods and directly into the soil. The water reservoir has a convenient water level indicator, so there is no guesswork necessary. I loved that I was able to go out of town for two weeks this summer and my produce kept growing without any care or maintenance required.

Click & Grow has more than 75 different pre-seeded pods for herbs, fruits, salads, and flowers, so there really is something for everyone! Each soil pod also contains all the nutrients your plants need so they grow healthy.

My Growing Experience

I have really enjoyed growing with the Click & Grow Smart Garden 9 for the last 4 months. I grew basil, green lettuce, dwarf tomato plants, and marjoram. The lettuce grew very quickly and made great salads this summer, and the basil has added great flavor to the Italian dishes I love to make.

I was most excited about growing the cherry tomatoes. I was very curious to see if this system would work the way it was advertised by Click & Grow. I actually set up an experiment to test it! Once the tomatoes sprouted, I took the thinned seedlings and replanted them in traditional pots with a vegetable potting soil and grew them under my normal grow lights.

The Smart Garden 9-grown tomato plants grew much bigger, fruited much faster, and are sturdy, healthy plants. The seedlings I transferred to regular pots are small and about 2 months behind in terms of fruit production. I am very impressed at how much better the tomatoes grew in the Smart Garden system!

The only thing that I didn’t have success with was the marjoram. It sprouted fine, but hasn’t grown much after that. I have never grown marjoram before, but I expected it to do better than it has. I think that the full-grown basil and tomato plants have blocked the light before it can reach the marjoram and that has stunted its growth.

Overall, using the Click & Grow Smart Garden 9 has been a really fun, easy, and delicious project. I am excited to buy some more pods and test out how it grows flowers and other herbs! I highly recommend this growing system for beginners and experts alike.

Pests literally come out of the woodwork in winter. This can be distressing for you, and devastating for your houseplants. But did you know that most culinary herbs are natural pest repellents? Sliding a potted rosemary in next to your beloved ficus can actually go a long way toward keeping pests at bay. And it'll make your house smell amazing.

Growing herbs in containers is relatively easy. Most herbs are well-suited for indoor kitchen gardens. They don’t get too big and generally thrive as long as they have good soil, regular water, and plenty of sunlight.

The Ideal Setup: Sunny Windows & Simple Care

If your houseplants are next to a sunny window, you can easily grow some potted herbs next door. It's doubly convenient if the window's in your kitchen – you can just snip a sprig while you're cooking!

Just be aware that most herbs require lots of light to grow well. A low-light houseplant tucked away in a corner might not be the best neighbor.

Why Grow Pest-Repellent Herbs Indoors

Indoor pests can be an issue year-round, but most people see more insects coming in for winter. Like any critter, they’re looking for warmth and shelter from the winter weather. Unfortunately for the homeowner, this means more ants, aphids, roaches, and other problem pests inside the house.

Growing herbs can be a great way to keep their numbers down. Many herbs contain compounds that naturally repel insects. They also have strong aromas, which mask the scent of food. Insects are often drawn to food smells in kitchens. Herbs are useful both outside in garden beds and inside, especially in winter, for managing insects and pests.

Top 10 Herbs That Repel Pests for Sunny Windowsills

Most herbs have potent fragrances that deter bugs. However, these windowsill herbs are particularly effective and very easy to grow indoors.

1. Basil

The smell of basil is effective at deterring flies, thrips, and mosquitoes. Harvest leaves regularly to use in the kitchen and to release the aroma into the air. Picking and crushing leaves makes the smell more potent and effective. Basil needs soil that drains very well and plenty of sunlight, up to six to eight hours per day.

2. Mint

Mint is one of the easiest herbs to grow. In fact, many people avoid growing it outdoors in beds because it readily takes over all the space. Mint throws out runners to spread and will even colonize the pot next to it. That being said, in a sunny window, mint is easy to keep, useful as a culinary ingredient, and an effective deterrent for flies, beetles, squash bugs, ants, and more.

3. Rosemary

Rosemary is an evergreen, woody shrub in warm climates. You can easily keep it in a small and manageable size in a container indoors. The pine-like smell of rosemary leaves repels a variety of pests, like beetles and flies. Rosemary should have light soil that drains very well and full sun. Avoid overwatering this Mediterranean native.

4. Lavender

Lavender has such a beautiful smell, you’ll enjoy keeping flies, mosquitoes, and more at bay with a pot of it in your kitchen or anywhere else. Like rosemary, lavender needs light, well-draining soil and shouldn’t be overwatered.

5. Lemongrass

Lemongrass contains citronella, which is well known to deter many pests, including mosquitoes, spiders, and ants. While it can grow pretty large outside, potted lemongrass should remain a manageable size. Give it full sun and soil that drains very well. Be aware, however, that lemongrass is toxic to pets.

6. Thyme

Thyme is a popular culinary herb that will also help you manage pests in the kitchen. Many types of insects are put off by the smell. Thyme likes well-drained soil that never gets too soggy and full sun. You can find several varieties of thyme, including some with unique aromas, like lemon or caraway.

7. Sage

Sage is a particularly easy herb to grow, and it repels all kinds of critters, from beetles and flies to moths and snails. Sage will tolerate average soil, but be sure it drains well, and place it in a sunny spot for the best growth.

8. Oregano

Oregano is a must-have kitchen herb for Italian cooking, but it can also help you manage pests, like mosquitoes and beetles. Oregano grows readily in a pot in full sun with average or even poor soil that drains well.

9. Bay Laurel

This shrubby tree is an ideal choice for a large pot next to a sunny window. The eucalyptol and other compounds that give bay leaves their unique aroma and flavor are known to repel all kinds of pests, including cockroaches. Be aware – bay laurel is toxic to pets.

10. Chives

Chives are a great addition to a culinary herb garden for their versatility in recipes. The mild onion flavor goes with just about any savory dish. They’re also easy to grow and keep flies, beetles, and other pests away. Give your chives full sun and rich, well-draining soil.

Every single fall, just as the nights start drawing in and my children turn into the rosy-cheeked equivalent of plague rats (I love you both, you tiny germ harborers), I find myself turning to the same fragrant garden staple that takes our cold-and-flu season from chaotic to just-about-manageable. I grow it every single year, and it never lets me down.

Not only is this garden herb unfussy and cold-hardy, but it also comes with centuries of traditional use behind it thanks to its natural anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. And, while I’m not in the business of claiming any plant is a cure-all, I am very much in the business of sharing the simple, everyday things that genuinely make cold-season life easier.

Now, doctors are clear: for those minor coughs, sore throats and sniffles that don’t warrant medication – the annoying but ordinary bugs we’re advised to manage at home with rest, fluids, and comfort measures – soothing herbal remedies can be wonderfully supportive. And this herb? It’s perfect for any low-level winter lurgy that just needs time and TLC.

How Sage Became My Winter Go-To

Unlike tender Mediterranean herbs that curl up and give in at the first frost, my beloved sage (Salvia officinalis) keeps going through the coldest months.

Happily hardy throughout USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 4-10, this perennial is actually a pretty cool customer (literally!) across the country, which means you don’t need to harvest and dry it before the frost hits as it can survive outdoors with minimal fuss. In warmer regions, you’ll find it stays evergreen year-round, and it’s one of the few herbs that reliably soldier on through biting winds and drizzly days over in the UK.

The best part? When cold-and-flu season really hits, I can step into the garden, grab a few leaves, and brew a soothing herbal tea before the kettle has even boiled.

Trust me: a handful of fresh leaves steeped in hot water with a spoonful of honey makes the kind of comforting drink that warms you from the inside out. And, while it won’t eliminate a cold entirely, it really does help ease sore throats and calm that scratchy, irritated feeling at the back of your nose.

Your shopping essentials:

A Natural Antibacterial Powerhouse

Researchers are increasingly interested in this herb’s potential antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects. Traditional medicine has long used it for respiratory discomfort, and modern studies suggest it contains compounds that may help inhibit certain bacteria.

In a season when we’re trying to dodge every bug going, all while simultaneously wiping noses with one hand and trying to locate missing socks with the other (I swear I buy them in pairs), anything that naturally supports the immune system is worth having around.

Plus, unlike many medicinal herbs that taste downright awful, this one is delicious: warm, woodsy, slightly peppery, and perfect in both sweet and savoury winter dishes. In fact, I'm every bit as likely to be found adding sage leaves to roasted root vegetables and crumbling it over roasted chicken this winter as I am using this witchy plant to soothe coughs and sniffles.

Winter wellness can feel like a full-time job, especially when you’re juggling kids, work, festive commitments, and the general exhaustion that comes with darker days. Growing even one herb that supports that season? And one you can brew into a comforting drink that fills your kitchen with warmth and fragrance, no less? Well, that just makes life feel a little bit softer.

And honestly? This herb is the easiest win you’ll get this winter. It basically grows itself, handling poor soil, partial sunlight, and neglect like a pro. It smells glorious. It tastes even better. And when cold season hits hard, it’s one of the few garden ingredients you’ll be truly grateful to have right outside your back door.

If you’re only planting one herb this season, make it this one. Your winter self will thank you.

It’s just about “last call” in your outdoor vegetable garden. In most areas, it’s out of the question to plant new crops this deep into fall. But no need to get too sad as you pick the last spinach or basil – since you can grow both green leafy vegetables and many favorite herbs indoors in containers. All you need is a sunny window or a good grow light.

There are many delicious edible plants to grow inside it just depends on what you like to eat! You can plant a selection of Italian herbs if that's what you like to cook with. Or make a mini indoor salsa garden with a dwarf tomato plant and cilantro.

Here are my personal favorites to consider, but remember to pick the ones your family is likely to eat. The sky is the limit.

5 Great Herbs to Grow Indoors

These herbs are easy growers, full of flavor, and will liven up your kitchen during the bleak winter days.

1. Parsley

Do you have a bright window? If so, you’ll find parsley easy to grow indoors. Soak the seeds for 24 hours before planting. Select a pot with drain holes, then add quality soil. Moisten the soil, then place the seeds on the soil, covering them lightly. Keep the soil moist, but not wet.

Parsley requires 6-8 hours of bright sun per day. If there’s not enough natural light, use a grow light. Find flavorful Italian flat leaf parsley seeds from Park Seed.

2. Chives

This onion relative – that looks like hollow grass - grows fast from seeds sprinkled on moist, well-draining soil. Put your indoor chive container in a full sun location. When the chives are mature, snip off a few from the base. To the extent possible, use them the same day you clip them, since they have the most flavor when they are freshly harvested. Find a pack of 100 chives seeds from Park Seed.

3. Mint

If you have mint in your backyard garden, you know that this is not a plant that needs coaxing. It’s more likely to take over the entire garden than die back. Grow mint indoors after digging it up from your outdoor garden. Mint overwinters indoors quite easily, as long as you have a sunny window. Don’t use one of those shallow containers however – you’ll want a mint container to be at least 12 inches (30cm) deep and some 8 inches (16cm) in diameter. Mint needs regular watering, not misting, to thrive. So take it to the sink, fill up the container, and let it drain. Find peppermint seeds for sale at Walmart.

4. Basil

Basil is a lovely plant to grow indoors, with its big, bright green leaves. You can buy a young plant at the garden store, transplant one from outside into an indoor pot, or take cuttings from outdoor pots. They root very quickly in water. Use a compost-based potting soil and keep the soil moist. Keep it in a spot that is consistently warm for best results. Find a great culinary blend of basil seeds from Park Seed.

5. Cilantro

Indoor cilantro is another fast-growing herb, moving from seed to harvest in less than a month. Getting the plant the correct sunlight is the hardest part about growing cilantro indoors, since it will wilt in direct sun but craves bright indirect sun. Plant the cilantro seeds in a big container, at least 18 inches (45 cm) wide and 12 inches (30cm) deep. The soil should be consistently moist. Pinch off the outer leaves to use for cooking, leaving the inner leaves to grow. Cilantro is ready to harvest in just three to four weeks. Heirloom 'slow bolt' cilantro seeds can be found at Walmart.

5 Best Leafy Greens to Grow Indoors

You don't have to forgo fresh, homegrown produce just because it is winter. Try these container grown salad greens indoors this winter and see what you've been missing!

1. Spinach

To grow spinach indoors, you’ll need fairly deep containers – between 6 and 8 inches (30-40cm) – and a sunny window or grow light for at least 12 hours a day. Seeds should be about ½ inch (2.5cm) deep in moist soil some 2 inches (10cm) apart. Keep the soil moist during the entire growth period. Once true leaves appear, thin seedlings to 3 inches (15cm) apart. Harvest the outer leaves first to allow inner leaves to keep growing. Tender and delicious baby leaf spinach seeds can be found at Park Seed.

2. Lettuce

What vegetable grows fast and has shallow roots? Lettuce! And no salad is more delicious than one made of baby lettuce grown in your kitchen window. You won’t need a deep container. A planter that is only 2-4 inches (5-10cm) is deep enough! Fill with soil, press the seeds onto the soil surface, then mist with water. Wait until the plants are 6 inches (30cm) tall before you start harvesting outer leaves. It will take between one and two months. Park Seed has an impressive selection of tasty lettuces that sure to fit your culinary needs.

3. Microgreens

Easy sneezy to grow indoors, microgreens are tiny sprouts that grow from seeds of other plants, like Swiss chard, basil, and beets. They are harvested and tossed into salads when they are seedlings so you never actually get the mature vegetables. Like lettuce, microgreens don’t need deep pots, just a few inches of soil will do well. Scatter the seed mix then press the seeds gently into the soil. Spray to water the seeds and expect to see sprouts in a few days. Snip off the sprouts at soil level when seedlings have grown two sets of true leaves. This usually takes two to three weeks. Try this micro mini greens mix from Park Seed.

4. Arugula

Leafy greens that make good indoor crops have some of the same characteristics: they grow fast, are compact plants, and only need moderate sunshine. Arugula meets all of these criteria. And you can get a continual crop by sowing seed every few weeks. The plants mature at a month to six weeks. Try using peppery arugula in a salad mix or even on top of a prosciutto and cheese pizza! This 'speedy' arugula from Park Seed is ready in 30 days.

5. Mesclun Mix

Mesclun greens are a mixture of various small, young salad greens. Traditionally, the mix was chervil, arugula, corn salad greens, oakleaf lettuce and endive, but other greens can be excluded or swapped in. Use a container between 4 and 6 inches (10-15cm) deep filled with good potting soil. Sprinkle the seeds on the soil, then add a shallow layer of soil on top. Water well and keep the soil moist. Place in an area that gets lots of direct sun, or use artificial light. Harvest starts in about three weeks, taking outer leaves first. Grow your mesclun mix with the 'Sow Effortless' disc from Park Seed. Just plant the pre-sown biodegradable disc and get ready for delicious salads in no time!

Indoor Growing Kits

Best Tips for Indoor Container Gardening

• Sun or grow light: You’ll need sun to get your greens or herbs growing. A south-facing window is your best bet, but you can use grow lights instead or in addition to sunshine. A good starter grow light is the Barrina full spectrum grow lights from Amazon.
• Use good potting soil: Don’t buy bottom-of-the-barrel soil. A quality potting mix will give the seeds the necessary nutrients.
• Use appropriate containers: Not every type of plant requires the same depth of soil. Some only need 2 inches (5cm), while others require 8 inches (20cm). Whatever containers you choose should have drainage holes.
• Keep soil moist: Container plants have limited soil and it can dry out quickly. Check daily and spray or water sufficiently to keep it appropriately moist.

Garlic planting schedule matters to nail a killer harvest. Pick the best time to plant garlic by zone, and your cloves will thrive. No matter your experience level, these moves keep your garlic game strong.

Timing is everything when you're learning when to plant garlic by zone. Wrong move, and your cloves flop, barely sprouting or bolting early. Get it right, and you’re pulling fat bulbs next summer. Where you live sets the rules, so zone matters big time.

Soil prep’s key for when to plant garlic, and growing garlic starts with loose dirt. Break up clumps, add compost, and keep it drained. Poor soil tanks your crop, but good prep locks in strong roots. Get this right, and your garlic’s off to a solid start.

Garlic varieties and their cold needs shape your garlic planting schedule. Hardneck or softneck picks depend on your zone’s winter chill. Some need a cold snap to bulb up, others don’t. Choose right, and your harvest’s set to crush it come summer.

Zones 1‑3

Up in Zones 1-3, winter is brutal, and growing seasons are short. Garlic needs that cold to form bulbs, so you absolutely need to plant before the ground turns to ice. A solid garlic planting schedule relies on heavy mulch to save your cloves from freezing solid.

Planting Time: Late September to early October

Late September hits right for planting garlic in these zones. Early October is fine too, but don’t wait longer. Cloves need time to root before snow locks the soil.

This is because garlic craves a cold spell, called vernalization, to grow right. These zones deliver plenty of chill, but you must plant early to let roots settle before winter’s deep freeze. Miss it, and bulbs come out small or won’t form.

Choose hardy, hardneck garlic varieties that suit cold zones and thrive in harsh winters. Music Garlic Bulbs, a type of porcelain garlic, are tough as nails.

If possible, plant your garlic in raised beds – they have better drainage and warm soil faster. A VegTrug Raised Garden from Amazon keeps roots happy. Mulch heavily to protect cloves, insulating against freezes. GardenStraw Mulch from Amazon works great.

Zones 4-6

Zones 4-6 get chilly but not Arctic-level. You’ve got a decent window for planting garlic, setting roots before winter naps kick in. The best time to plant garlic here is a perfect balance between cold and root growth for the strongest garlic planting schedule.

Planting Time: Mid-September to late October

Mid-September starts the garlic planting schedule right. Push to late October if needed, but earlier is better for solid roots. Don’t let frost catch you off guard.

Soil prep is key for success, and good soil preparation starts with loose dirt. Break up clumps, add compost, and keep it drained. Poor soil tanks your crop, but good prep locks in strong roots.

Garlic varieties and cold needs shape your garlic planting schedule. Hardneck or softneck picks depend on your zone’s winter chill. Some need a cold snap to bulb up, others don’t. Choose right, and your harvest’s set to crush it come summer.

German White Garlic, a hardneck variety, grows strong. Inchelium Red Garlic, a softneck, stores long.

Zones 7-9

Zones 7-9 have mild winters, so the garlic planting schedule has to shift a little to avoid issues. The cold will be weaker here, which can interfere with hardneck varieties.

Planting Time: Late October to November

Late October is the prime time for planting garlic here. November works too, but don’t push it. You want cloves in before it’s too warm. Mild winters mean less chill for vernalization, so timing is tricky. Softneck garlic often beats hardneck in these zones. Plant these later in the year to avoid messing up your harvest.

Plant later in fall to avoid premature sprouting. Grow a softneck variety, like California Early Garlic, which thrives in warm climates.

These zones can still experience occasional cold snaps – protect your garlic with pine bark mulch, or plant them in a cold frame like this from Amazon to insulate the soil.

Zones 10-11

Zones 10-11 barely ever get cold. This tends to make garlic a little trickier. The garlic planting schedule needs just a little extra care to mimic chill for a solid crop.

Planting Time: Late fall to early winter

No real winter means vernalization is very tough. Garlic needs cold to form bulbs, so you need to plant during the least hot time, or give them a synthetic vernalization.

November to January is your window for planting garlic. Pick the coolest months to give cloves a fighting chance. Too warm, and they won’t bulb right.

Plant softneck varieties suited to warmth – Silver Rose Garlic grows well in hot climates. You can also chill your garlic bulbs for a synthetic vernalization. An Igloo Compact Refrigerator from Amazon is a compact fridge that’s perfect for chilling bulbs and other seeds.

From Harvest Moons to homegrown Jack-o'-lanterns, there’s something about October that makes even the most practical gardener feel… well, a little witchy. So when someone urges us to make like Sandra Bullock in Practical Magic and burn a few herbs, you’d better believe we’re reaching for the matches.

Oh yes, you’re not alone if the herb garden you’ve lovingly tended to all summer suddenly feels like more than simply ingredients for a humble pot roast. Aromatic and steeped in centuries of folklore, in fact, you can elevate your rosemary, sage, and lavender to new heights by carefully clipping and burning them.

It’s a trend that’s captivated people on social media, with many trimming their herbs so that they can either toss their sprigs into a fire, or carefully bundle them up and set a match to them. But why? Let’s find out.

Garden Herbs Steeped In History

Rosemary, sage, and lavender have all been grown in cottage gardens and on windowsills for generations, prized for their fragrance, resilience, and medicinal uses. But these garden herbs also come laden with a long tradition of ritual.

In ancient Greece and Rome, rosemary was burned to purify the air and protect against illness. In folk practices across Europe, lavender smoke has long been believed to cleanse both body and space. And Native Americans have long used sacred herbs like sage in their smudging rituals to invite positive energy.

That connection between the practical and the mystical is what makes burning these garden herbs feel so right in October. It’s part garden ritual, part seasonal self-care… but there’s more to it than just that.

A Sensory Approach to Pest Control

Experts note that the essential oils of these garden herbs are released when they are burned, filling the air with a sharp, invigorating scent. Research suggests this can help to improve air quality; rosemary, lavender, and sage all have antimicrobial properties, and burning them may reduce bacteria in the air.

Burning these garden herbs in October is also a great way to banish garden pests. Mosquitoes, moths, and flies dislike their scent at the best of times, and they positively hate smoke, making it a natural alternative to pesticides.

Finally, this little ritual can boost wellbeing. Yes, really; studies link the aromas of all three of these garden herbs to reduced stress and improved memory – which isn’t bad for a sprig plucked straight from your own backyard.

How to Do it Safely

It’s worth noting that you don’t need to create a bonfire if you decide to burn these garden herbs in October. A small bundle of dried rosemary, lavender, sage, or a mixture of all three tied with cotton string, burns slowly and releases just enough smoke to scent a room or patio.

Using something like Fiskars' Herb Garden Scissors, available on Amazon, then, clip a few sprigs from a mature plant in your herb garden. If you’re cutting fresh, let them dry in a warm place for a week.

Then, you can either toss these sprigs straight into your fireplace, barbecue, or firepit, or you can transform it into an atmospheric fall ritual by tying the stems with cotton string, like this, to make a bundle.

Finally, light the tip, let it smoulder, and waft the smoke gently with a fireproof bowl, such as this traditional clay design on Amazon, or dish beneath. Take care to extinguish in sand or water when finished, and then open a window if you’re indoors to let fresh air circulate.

It’s not surprising that rosemary, sage, and lavender have all been associated with witchcraft at one point or another; the first is believed to bring happiness and love, the second wisdom and protection, the third grace and serenity. All of which feel like wonderful things to welcome into our lives and homes as we head into the darker months.

That’s not to say that burning these three garden herbs in October is a magic spell for a better life. It is, though, a ritual that combines the practical with the symbolic: you’re repelling pests, freshening the air, and giving your mind a sensory reset, all while taking part in something people have done for centuries.

Don’t just let your garden herbs sit in the garden, then. Instead, harvest them, light them, and enjoy the crackle of a tradition that’s equal parts gardening, wellness, and witchcraft.

As gardeners, it’s easy to get confused in this inbetweeny phase between scorchio summer days and the mulled wine winter weekends of the holidays. The gap between more obvious growing (or lack of growing) conditions can often be laced with doubts, hesitation and second-guessing. Mulling over the best way to protect plants from frost is one such conundrum. It’s not helped by unpredictable weather patterns that maybe hint at future frosty nips, while teasing you with an Indian summer sunny spell or dowsing your beds in buckets of autumnal rain. And how can you confidently prepare for the first frost when it can be such a difficult event to predict, you may well be wondering?

Although you may care about protecting plants from frosts and freezes, mapping out an action plan for relocating favorite perennials, half-hardies, exotics and pot plants may not always be the thing you get round to well ahead of time. Depending on where you live, ‘first frost’ is something that can happen as early as September (in some northern US or high altitude areas), or as late as December or maybe not even at all (in warmer southern states). Factors like altitude and latitude have a part to play, and even whether you live in a built-up, highly populated area. So what should be the top priority?

If you’ve ever grabbed outdoor plants at random in a mild panic as weather reports announced that Jack Frost was on his way, then take a breath, take a beat, and take action now. If you’re interested in protecting plants from frost, these are some of the key plants to move now. Make some room undercover in a clean, well lit space, and follow this checklist to save your tenders, half-hardies and precious perennial pals.

Protect These Plants from First Frost

First of all, if you haven’t already, do get familiar with your likely first frost dates. When is first frost? It is possible to determine this in a way that is pertinent to your specific area, by entering your zip code into a calculator. The Old Farmer’s Almanac has a diamond resource for determining average first frost date predictions based on the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) climate data, tailored to your zip. Base my plant suggestions on your USDA hardiness zone, too – is a particular plant hardy to a zone lower than the one in which you live, or are you on the cusp? This can impact your moving strategy.

As well as having a sense of the first expected frost date, consider overall plant health before bringing plants indoors. Inspect carefully for pests and take steps to address any infections before introducing (or reintroducing) them to your indoor plant family. Also, don’t just reposition them in your plush living room – it might be cosy to you, but your plants won’t be used to it, and the dramatic change can be just as much of a shock as a frosty snap. You need to ease them back indoors, finding a place that has similar conditions, but sheltered. It’s like hardening off in reverse, and it’s just as crucial to the health and strength of plants.

Bear in mind some plants are perfectly happy outside and are plenty hardy enough. Relocating those plants abruptly will shock their growth cycles, disrupting dormancy, and causing more harm than good. Stick to plants like those mentioned here that are frost-tender or only marginally hardy for your area. With this info to hand, you can confidently relocate key plants you had out for summer, and those that require precautionary measures and protections for winter. You’ll be grateful you did this before Mr Frost makes pretty patterns on your windows. So if the thermometer has already dipped below 50°F (10°C), there’s no time to lose. Think ahead of the date of first frost, check these plants – and act fast!

1. Citrus

Citrus plants can surprise you, seemingly running on fumes when other fruiting plants have started packing up operations for the year. However, that’s contingent on the right blend of warmth and light lasting beyond the softening rays of autumn. Although some citrus varieties can cope with temperatures in the low single digits (celsius), it’s not a great idea to risk the ravages of tissue damage caused by significant exposure to frost, from which it could take months for the plant to recover, if it even makes it that far. Save yourself that grief and find a safe place indoors for your lemons and limes to dodge that first frost and see out the colder months.

Once temperatures start dropping to 50°F (10°C), reposition them indoors. After a few days of getting them used to being undercover, put them somewhere with a regular temperature of 57-63°F (14-17°C). Ideally, they need plenty of sunlight. Unlike a lot of other plants, they remain active and are likely to keep producing fruits if conditions are agreeable. However, they can’t abide overly dry living conditions, or a spot where they are going to have to grapple with overactive central heating. Keep your citrus well watered – and remember, this is one plant you can feed all year, even once you bring it indoors. Apply a citrus feed like Jack’s Classic Citrus Water-Soluble Feed from Amazon up until October. After that, switch to a general-purpose feed until March.

2. Begonia

Sensitive? You could say that. One night that wobbles around the 45°F (7°C) mark can signal bad news for quite a few begonias. Some of the Rex varieties look tough as old boots, but don’t let that gruff and crunchy exterior fool you. It only takes one brush with sharp frosty night to have these sensitive souls turning up their toes. There’s a reason they are called tender – so if you want to dodge a bad case of the winter doldrums, bring begonias indoors once the nights start dipping past 50°F (10°C). I’d be tempted to make that move once you’ve seen this happen more than twice.

Specifically, you should be transferring fibrous (wax), Angel wing and Rex begonias indoors that you have had outside over late spring and summer, along with any other predominantly foliage-based varieties. Although exact growing conditions will vary depending on variety, indoor begonias require a place that is relatively cool, free from drafts, and flooded with daylight. Aim for a daytime temperature of 65-75°F (18-24°C), and ideally a slightly lower nighttime temp. A digital thermometer like the ThermoPro TP50 Digital Thermo-Hygrometer Indoor Room Thermometer from Amazon can help you keep an eye on temperatures once begonias are moved indoors.

3. Abutilon

There’s a little variation amongst the many types of flowering maple (abutilon), but several common varieties that soak up the sun in summer are half hardy. These need a little protection on the road into winter, and definitely need to be kept away from frosts. It’s hardly surprising given abutilon’s subtropical origins. If you have a very sheltered outdoor spot like a wall, that may help with some of the more erratic weather that crashes into your neighborhood – but it’s not necessarily going to help with frost.

Yes, certain abutilon varieties are a little less fussy. For instance, Abutilon megapotamicum can handle temp drops to 23°F (-5°C). However, common abutilon varieties are going to flop if the mercury drops into single digits celsius more than a couple of times. My vigorous ‘Emperor’ is very typical here – it’s unfussy for months of summer, but starts getting narky once September chills dance around the backyard. At this point, I treat my abutilon as a houseplant, and site it accordingly.

Where you suspect yours is only hardy to 32°F (0°C), it’s best brought indoors in advance of regular sharp thermometer dips. Find a sunny west facing window with six hours light if you can (I’ve managed to keep mine going near a north west-facing window, even jostling for position with several other winter wanderers). You don’t have to worry about feeding, and can reduce watering. Use the XLUX Moisture Meter for Indoor Pot Plants from Amazon if you need to keep tabs on your pot plants.

4. Rosemary

Now I won’t lie, I’ve not always had the best luck with potted rosemary indoors. Placed in the wrong indoor location, this seasoned perennial can struggle if its needs aren’t met. But if it’s a choice between risking a severe weather snap and losing one of my favorite herbs, it’s a no-brainer. You may hear that several types can withstand temp drops as low as 14°F (-10°C) once established. But rosemary is a Mediterranean herb, and not generally the jolliest when dusted with a layer of frost. Ultimately, this woody herb is frost-tender, so it’s important to take steps to protect it from the ravages of a cold snap.

Overwintering your rosemary, done right, can help preserve your precious herbs for another sun-soaked year. I tend to approach this in a multi-pronged fashion. I’ll have already set a few rosemary cuttings off from my outdoor shrub as an insurance policy. But alongside this, I always bring my large container-based rosemary indoors as well. I try to hold off until mid-September, depending on the weather. They can tolerate a little fall-off in the weather, but for rosemary, I’d say that any hint that the temperature is on its way down to 40°F (4°C) is your cue to intervene.

Beyond that, you really don’t want to push your luck and find out exactly how tough your rosemary is, especially if you are based in USDA zone 7 or lower. So to protect plants from first frost, transition your rosemary indoors in the fall, using a garage or shed to acclimate it to the indoors gradually. Keep it somewhere sunny, with average humidity and away from heat vents, and try to maintain a steady temperature between 60-80°F (15.5-26°C). Definitely don’t feed, and reduce watering to prevent root stress. I like to use wiggle worm water sensors like the Worm Water Sensor Hygrometer from Amazon to help me check that water levels in my indoor plants are optimal and well maintained.

5. Caladium

There are a couple of ways to protect frost-sensitive caladiums as fall starts dropping hints about the slides in temperature. You can simply lift the bulbs, let them dry out for a few days, and store them in a warm, dry place until spring arrives. However, once outdoor temperatures start sliding below 54-60°F (12-15°C), it’s also possible to bring them in and treat them as houseplants to extend their color and beauty for longer. If you aren’t in USDA zones 9 or above, you will need to move them one way or another.

Outdoor caladiums that are brought inside will need to be kept out of direct light while you cultivate them as indoor guests. Above all, make sure the indoor spot you choose is warm and humid. Caladiums will need temperatures kept around 65-75°F (18-24°C). They will eventually need a period of dormancy, and even with utmost care, you may see leaves on outdoor leaves turning yellow and dying back. Reduce watering and respect that resting phase so they come back strong next year. To store tubers safely, enfold them in wood shavings or sawdust. Store in a dry carrier like a paper bag or natural fabric pouches like Lucky Monet Hessian Jute Bags from Amazon.

6. Kalanchoe

While they are tropical succulents by nature, kalanchoe plants are also very adaptable to indoor living. These colorful beauties can be grown as perennials. Just ensure their scalloped fleshy leaves are not exposed to frosts, and observe a few simple cultural rituals between fall and spring so they perk up again. The warning sign that they need to be brought indoors is slightly higher than for certain other plants – they will start getting grumpy if left outside when nighttime temps drop below 55°F (13°C).

These pretty succulent perennials will be happy enough indoors if you place them in a place with indirect light, preferably near a west-facing window (but not actually placed on the windowsill). They won’t require high humidity levels and they certainly won’t need much water, but they will need to be kept at a regular temperature of 55-80°F (13-27°C). One word of caution if you want your kalanchoe to flower again: they will need at least 12-14 hours of complete darkness for around 6-8 weeks. You can achieve this by placing the plant in a box each night. As a little treat to your kalanchoe chums, cheer things up with some new outer pots like the ArtKetty Succulent Planters from Amazon.

7. Birds of Paradise

Unless you live in a tropical area, cultivating a happy strelitzia will involve an element of relocation over a typical year. My bird of paradise flourishes outdoors during summer months, nestled happily against a sheltered wall and basking in the afternoon sunshine. Come fall, it’s a different story – and my well behaved birdie needs a change of scene. For anyone who isn’t based in USDA zones 10-12, autumn is a time to start making plans to move most of these frost-sensitive beauties indoors.

If there’s a chance that the mercury is going to drop below 50°F (10°C) in your area, this in itself is a reason to bring your plant indoors. Their tender nature won’t abide prolonged exposure to anything below that level – at best, the cold will stunt or damage flower production. At worst, they could sustain severe tissue damage and give up the ghost. So to protect outdoor plants from frost, bring your container-based strelitzia indoors in the fall and treat them as fancy houseplants until spring is well underway.

A conservatory or greenhouse is ideal, but they can also do well near a sunny window indoors, somewhere you can keep the temperature above 57°F (14°C). I would also take advantage of this move indoors by carefully wiping those sumptuous leaves, which may be dusty after months outdoors. Use dedicated wipes like The Green Alcove Leaf Cleaner & Shine Wipes from Amazon, to restore a lustrous sheen ahead of winter.

8. Passion Flower

You can get hardy passifloras, like the blue passion flower and the maypop. Indeed, I know of someone growing a blue passion flower a few houses down from me, which stubbornly clings to its wrought iron fence moorings all year round, seemingly oblivious to what the weather throws at it (I once thought it was fake, but it turns out it is real). However, just because some passion flower varieties are hardy, that doesn’t mean you should leave yours to chance as the temperatures drop.

Certain varieties are more frost-sensitive – and if you don’t live in USDA zones 7 or above, you should definitely make plans to relocate yours indoors before the first frost. Choose a bright spot indoors with high levels of humidity and a regular daytime temperature of 70-85°F (16-29°C), dropping no colder than 60°F (16°C) at night. It’s a good idea to trim stems to 2ft (60cm) to encourage robust growth in spring.

If you are based in USDA zones 7 or above, and you can get away with keeping your passion flowers outside over winter, it’s still worth giving the root systems of hardy varieties a little extra protection. Where this applies to you, be sure to add a layer of mulch around your passion flower plants. I love Back to the Roots Organic Premium Mulch from Amazon, with a thoughtful blend of yucca extract and gypsum to help balance water levels as well as provide insulation to roots.

9. Pelargonium

If there’s one plant group that seems to fill more corners of my house every winter, it’s the pretty (and often delectably scented) pelargonium family. These plants are the quintessential half-hardy perennials, and being frost-tender puts them high on the list of priorities for relocation ahead of first frost. Put simply, pelargoniums will die if exposed to frost. Considering their many months of service and their potential for years more of the same, it’s unthinkable to leave them to the whims of the elements as long as you have a spot indoors to accommodate them.

To protect potted plants from frost, keep an eye out for outdoor night temperatures starting to nudge down towards 48-50°F (8-10°C). I tend to make cuttings towards the end of summer, and a greenhouse is also fine for potted pelargoniums (if you have one) – but moving them into the home is a highly agreeable way to keep adult plants going. Ideally, keep a steady temperature between 64-72°F (18-22°C). Don’t forget to get plants used to the indoors by keeping them somewhere like a garage for a few days first.

While you don’t have to worry about feeding or regular watering over winter, the one thing that can guarantee happier pels in the new year is a strong and steady supply of light. If natural light sources are going to be a struggle, it’s well worth investing in a grow light to keep your sun-thirsty pels happy (they’re going to need at least 6 hours a day in order to thrive). Try an adjustable model like the AeroGarden Trio Grow Light from Amazon to ensure they are in the best form come spring.

Need more ideas for timely gardening jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Rich in flavor and antioxidants, it’s little wonder that herbs have become something of a gardening staple over the years. As the days shorten and the temperatures dip, though, it’s important to suss out the best herbs to plant in fall if you want to keep your kitchen stocked until spring.

It’s easy to write fall off as a no-go for starting an herb garden, but it actually makes for near-perfect growing conditions; the cooler weather is less stressful for plants, the soil is still warm enough for roots to grow, and rainy days help seeds and transplants settle in. Win!

Still, whether you fancy growing herbs in containers or hanging baskets, the trick is knowing which varieties to choose for your USDA hardiness zone. In warmer areas, you can enjoy fresh herbs through the winter; in colder areas, fall is a great time to plant hardy perennial plants ready to pop back in the spring (or to pot tender herbs up for some much-needed coddling indoors).

1. Rosemary

Rosemary is one of those herbs that absolutely thrives in colder climates, and can actually stay evergreen through the winter in zones 7-10. All you have to do is plant something like Walmart’s National Plant Network 4 in. Rosemary Live Herb Plant in well-drained soil so its roots can establish themselves before the big chill settles in.

If you’re based in zones 6 or colder, rosemary struggles outdoors. It’s still a great herb to plant in fall, though; just pot it up, bring it indoors for the winter, and snip sprigs all season long for roasts, soups, and breads.

2. Thyme

One of our favorite hardy perennials, thyme doesn’t mind the cold one bit, making it one of the best herbs to grow in the fall – or divide it, if you want more (free!) plants.

You can pick up a multipack of thyme thanks to Amazon’s Live Aromatic and Edible Herb offer, and then all that’s left to do is get it planted in a pot or the ground; it should stay green for much of the winter in zones 5 to 9.

In colder areas, give your thyme a little extra protection with a layer of mulch, and it should bounce back merrily come springtime. And, trust us, it’s well worth the effort for those tiny leaves; they pack some serious punch in stews and roasted veggie dishes.

3. Sage

A classic fall herb (what’s the point of roasting anything without sage, eh?), this perennial is happily hardy in most of the country – which means you don’t need to harvest and dry it before the frost hits.

Treat it as one of the best herbs to grow in the fall, and your sage should have time to settle its roots ahead of the winter. Pick up a Grower's Friend (Salvia officinalis) from Walmart if you want something that’ll thrive in zones 6-9. If you’re in a colder spot, it’s worth mulching for a cosy dash of overwintering. Otherwise, you should be able to pick its leaves all year long.

4. Chives

One of the toughest herbs around, chives are hardy down to zone 3, making them ideal herbs to grow in the fall. If you do so, the foliage will likely die back in the cold before growing back early in the springtime, often before anything else.

Of course, you could always pot up something like Smoke Camp Crafts Organic Chives Plant from Amazon and keep it on a sunny windowsill for wintry flavor…

5. Parsley

Parsley is a biennial that acts like an annual in many gardens across the country, and Nature Hills’ Curly Parsley in particular is cold-tolerant and root-hardy in USDA growing zones 3 and up. This is only, however, if you take steps to protect it and plant it up in well-drained soil; it’s happiest in full sun and well-drained soil, too.

Because parsley is slow to germinate, fall’s lingering warmth gives seedlings the boost they need. Or, of course, you can buy a potted version of this herb for your sunniest windowsill; you’ll likely find yourself harvesting fresh leaves right into winter if you do.

6. Mint

Mint is hardy almost everywhere, although this thuggish herb can prove pretty unstoppable if it’s not contained (honestly, pot it up; you don’t want a backyard takeover).

One of the best herbs to grow in the fall, there are plenty of varieties to choose from, although we rate Walmart’s Chocolate Mint – Live Plants for a twist on the classic. In zones 7-9 it will stay green through winter; in colder areas it will die and come back stronger in the spring.

A fresh mint tea from your own garden? Ideal fall fare, quite frankly.

7. Cilantro

Cilantro might taste like summer sunshine, but it bolts quickly in the heat. In fact, its love of cooler climes makes it one of the very best herbs to grow in the fall, so take care to sow some Seedboy Organic Cilantro 'Slow Bolt' Herb Seeds from Walmart directly outdoors if you’re in zones 8 to 10; this should secure you a steady supply of flavorsome leaves over the winter.

In colder zones, you still have options for cilantro on tap; just plant it in pots and grow it indoors on a sunny sill. Just take care to harvest regularly if you want to keep it thriving.

8. Oregano

Last but not least on our list of herbs to plant in the fall is the not-so-humble oregano, which is winter hardy down to zone 5.

Easy to grow and a pollinator magnet, grab a starter plant (you can bag 2 Live Common Oregano Plants from Amazon for the price of one) and take care to harvest its leaves on the regular as soon as it’s planted.

After a couple of weeks, it should really take off in those cooler temps. Just be sure to harvest and dry its leaves before the frosts hit, so your pizzas don’t go lacking when the mercury drops.

The trick to planting herbs in the fall is simple enough: mulch like mad if you’re growing them outdoors, or pot them up so you can bring them indoors and coddle them over the winter months. Always choose a sunny spot, opt for well-draining soil, and clip lightly throughout the fall to keep them thriving.

Bonus points if you dry sprigs or freeze chopped herbs in ice cube trays so you have delicious fall flavors to hand whenever you need them. 'Tis the season for comfort cooking, after all!

Herbs are generally easy to grow and reward you with big flavors, as well as delightful aromas and ornamental value in the garden. Many popular herbs are tender annuals, meaning they won’t survive most winters. You’ll need to replant them in the spring for another year of growth. Other herbs are hardier and are even perennials in many climates.

If you're growing an herb garden with tender herbs, you’ll want to think about harvesting and preserving as much of the plant as possible before the first frost. Some tender herbs are a little more robust than others and can survive a light frost or two. But these are the ones you definitely want to pick and dry before it gets too cold.

How to Harvest and Dry Herbs

You have probably been harvesting and using herbs fresh all summer and into early fall. Now, it’s time to remove as much as you can to dry for winter. You can continue to use your preserved herbs for months while you wait for new growth next season. Here are some tips for picking herbs:

• Tackle these herbs before the first frost. This list of herbs includes plants that are likely to be damaged beyond repair in a frost. Know your average first frost date, but also pay attention to the weather. The first frost might come sooner than you expect.
• Harvest leaves before plants flower. Most herbs harvested for their leaves develop an off flavor after flowering. To avoid this, pinch off flowers all season as they develop.
• Harvest leaves in the morning after the dew has dried for peak flavor.
• Remove herbs using sharp, clean scissors. Snip just above a leaf node when harvesting in summer. This encourages more growth. For your last harvest, remove as much of the foliage that looks healthy.

Drying herbs is a great method for preserving them. If necessary, rinse off the harvested leaves and spread them out on a clean cloth or paper towel to let all the moisture evaporate.

Once dry but still fresh, tie the herbs into bundles and hang them upside down to dry completely. Keep plenty of space between the bundles to allow air to circulate. Alternatively, you can lay the herbs on screens to dry, but be sure to turn them over regularly for even drying. This herb drying rack from Amazon is an excellent way to ensure good airflow and get a lot of leaves dried at once.

If you want to go the quicker and more industrial route, electric food dehydrators come in a wide array of price points and capacities.

• This Elite Gourmet dehydrator on Amazon has great reviews and costs less than $40.
• This digital dehydrator from Wayfair is more expensive but a lot more high-tech.
• This 20-tray dehydrator from Home Depot has some serious through-put if you're setting up a big operation.

Storing Your Herbs over Winter

Once your herbs are dry and crispy, and easily crumble between your fingers, they are ready to store. Separate leaves from stems and place the leaves in airtight containers like these spice jars on Amazon.

Store the leaves as whole as possible to retain more flavor. Don’t crush them until you are ready to cook with them. Keep the jars in a cool, dry cupboard away from heat, light, and moisture sources.

Herbs to Harvest Now, before the First Frost

While some annual herbs will tolerate a little frost or colder temperatures, these tender annuals should be harvested sooner for the best outcome.

1. Basil

Basil is the most tender of all commonly grown garden herbs. It will not survive a gentle frost. You can dry your last harvest of basil, but its fresh flavor doesn’t remain very potent when dried.

A better way to keep it is to freeze the leaves in ice cubes. Rough chop your basil leaves and press them into ice cube trays. Add water and freeze. Pop out the cubes and store them loose in a freezer bag. Remove and thaw one or more ice cubes when you’re ready to use the basil.

2. Dill

Dill has a delicate and distinctive flavor that pairs well with fish, potatoes, pickles, and many vegetables. It also dries very well and maintains its aroma and flavor. It will not do well after a frost, though, so harvest it soon and dry it for winter storage.

Hopefully, you've been removing flowers from your dill plants, so you have only the best-tasting foliage left to harvest. If you let a few flowers form, these will re-seed plants for next year.

3. Lemon Verbena

Lemon verbena has a delicious and unique lemony and green herbal flavor and aroma that makes a delightful tea and pairs well with fish and delicate vegetables. As with many herbs, it’s best to remove the leaves before the plant has been allowed to flower. Lemon verbena leaves hold their aroma and flavor well when dried. Store them to use all winter.

4. Cilantro

Known as coriander when referring to the seeds, cilantro is the foliage of this tender annual herb. It has a flavor that people either love or hate. If you cherish this herb, remove as much of the foliage as possible before the first frost and store it for winter use. As with basil, you can dry cilantro for storage, but it retains more flavor when frozen.

5. Tarragon

Tarragon is tender, and although it tastes best when used fresh, you can save it for winter use. Just expect to use more of the dried herb than fresh in any recipe to get the same effect. Tarragon is traditionally paired with chicken, eggs, cream sauces, and potatoes.

6. Chervil

Chervil is less common in kitchen gardens than these other herbs, but if you grow it, you can enjoy its delicate flavor in a similar way to parsley. It pairs well with foods that won’t overpower it, like eggs, chicken, salad, or light soups. Chervil’s subtle flavor can be lost in the drying process, so stick stems in water to use it fresh for a few days and then freeze the rest.

The departure of the glory days of summer may leave many of us feeling out of sorts. Although fall can still be a life-affirming medley of color outside, we’ll inevitably be turning more of our attention indoors. Trouble is, with the seasonal shift and the drops in temperature, you’ll likely be aware of more activity associated with certain house guests you haven’t invited to join you indoors... Yes, I’m talking about spiders.

The phase from late August to October is known as spider season. For a lot of male spiders, this is prime mating season. Unfortunately, the combination of amorous arachnids and the cooler weather means many spiders are heading indoors on their quest for companionship. We all have our own ways of grappling with this unsettling upswing in spider pests. If you’re industrious, you can seal up gaps and cracks. If you’re more expressive, you might stand on a chair waving a newspaper – or lean uncertainly over a bath or wash basin with jam jars and glasses.

If none of that appeals, though, there is a simpler way – and that’s introducing plants that repel spiders. These plants work as nature’s deterrents, thanks to the fact that they emit particular smells and release chemicals that spiders find unpleasant, irksome, and ultimately off-putting. Grow these plants indoors, and you’ll have an organic and fragrant solution to the domestic problem associated with spider season. So put down that newspaper, and find out about some very welcome plants that can keep those pesky creepy-crawlies at bay.

Choosing Plants that Repel Spiders

You might not want to spend too long thinking about spiders (after all, even seeing one scuttling across the shag pile can be distressing!). Still, it’s helpful to understand a little bit about why certain plants are so effective at repelling arachnids from your cosy warm interiors during spider season.

Put simply, spiders are very sensitive to smell – using tiny hairs and receptors called sensilla to pick up vital environmental cues. Their sensilla are acutely active during the mating season. But as well as being used to hone in on potential mates, these sensilla are primed to detect and respond to vibrations and smells, good and bad, and respond accordingly.

If you can position certain fragrant container plants in choice areas of the home, you create conditions that are a lot less hospitable for spiders. Aromatic fall flowers and plants that emit powerful fragrance will challenge and confuse any spider wishing to set up home with a prospective mate. Plant fragrances can overwhelm a spider’s receptors and interfere with their ability to pick out scent trails that are important to them.

Where you can keep these fragrances pumping out in a fresh and regular supply, in the form of specific healthy plants, spiders will be discouraged from sticking around and will head somewhere else. So read on to find out about some of the best plants to repel spiders. Some spider repellants are fragrant herbs, while others are classic scented ornamentals.

1. Chrysanthemums

The pairing of mums and autumn is as natural and harmonious as peanut butter and jelly. Growing chrysanthemums is a great way of boosting morale with high impact flowering ornamentals as high summer gives way to a more contemplative season in the gardening calendar. What you might not know is that container-based mums are also great news if you want to know how to get rid of spiders in the home. As spider repellant plants go, they don’t get more vibrant than these fall-friendly favorites.

Chrysanthemums emit a chemical called pyrethrin, which is actually toxic to spiders. This chemical is used in several bug repellents, such as the BASF PT PI Pressurized Contact Insecticide Spray from Amazon (which is convenient for targeted use). You may think mums have an innocuous (albeit pleasant) nutty, earthy smell, but while they are harmless to us, this chemical causes nerve overstimulation in spiders. It can interfere with coordination, disorient the spider, and even result in paralysis. So keeping mums is a colorful yet wickedly effective way of creating problems for wayward arachnids. Buy Chrysanthemum ‘Matchsticks’ from Burpee.

2. Rosemary

Several key plants that keep spiders away come from the herbal world – and one is rosemary. While many of us appreciate the complex olfactory notes, which add an intriguing element to culinary and aromatherapy applications, the same is not true for old spidey. Arachnids are overwhelmed by the intense herbaceous hit, particularly the camphor and eucalyptol. So place some container-based rosemary plants near windows and doorways to serve as a natural deterrent. Just make sure the spot you choose receives plenty of sunlight (at least six hours, and preferably more).

Particularly strong smelling varieties include ‘Chef’s Choice’, ‘Spice Island’ and ‘Tuscan Blue’ Rosemary, which you can buy from Walmart. As a fragrant extra, why not cut some sprigs of rosemary after propagation, hanging them over doorways? You can also use rosemary essential oils in diffusers and oil burners. A few drops of an oil like Siva Organics Rosemary Essential Oil from Amazon is highly concentrated and can go a long way if you are looking to intensify your levels of rosemary potency.

3. Eucalyptus

The delectably pungent eucalyptus is my personal favorite aromatic spider repellent – possibly because it’s one of my favorite smells in the universe. Just as well I’m not a spider, or else I’d be in big trouble. It might not seem like an obvious choice to grow these fragrant beauties indoors, and it’s true there are a few caveats. You’re better off with a compact variety if you’re growing eucalyptus in a container indoors. Think pretty gray-blue Eucalyptus cinerea ‘Silver Dollar’ if you’re willing to keep it well pruned, or scalloped E. gunnii ‘Silver Drop’ kept around 65-75°F (18-24°C).

Your potted eucalyptus needs to be positioned near a window to access eight hours of sun a day – ideally south facing and preferably a conservatory, where multi-directional light is possible. You also need to be willing to monitor water levels closely, ensuring that the pot is well draining to prevent the risk of root rot. Get this right, and eucalyptus can be a devastating spider foe, as well as a handsome aromatic houseplant. Loaded with eucalyptol, like rosemary, it will muddle a spider’s navigational abilities, mask scent trails, and leave them feeling discombobulated.

If you’re not overly confident you can keep a eucalyptus thriving indoors, here’s another idea – and this one, friends, is being deployed in my house! Keep your actual plant outdoors, like my ‘Baby Blue’ – but steal a few branches for cutting, and place them in killer positions to infuriate your spider guests. I have cuttings of eucalyptus regularly infusing their aromatic loveliness around the home – gorgeous for me, not so great for the arachnids. Grow your own ‘Baby Blue’ Eucalyptus, available as a live plant from Amazon, and as insurance, grab some Siva Organics Eucalyptus Essential Oil, also from Amazon, and pop a few drops in a diffuser.

4. Peppermint

It wouldn’t be right to advocate too heavily for the science behind peppermint as a spider deterrent, as opinion is genuinely divided. On an anecdotal basis, though, two active ingredients in peppermint – menthol and cineole – are believed to be repulsive and disorienting to spiders. I’ve been known to leave cotton balls soaked with peppermint nestled against doorways, or stuffed along uneven floorboards. And for as long as I’ve been growing herbs, I’ve resolved to keep at least a couple of pots of peppermint indoors at close quarters, wherever I feel it’s needed most.

The trick with peppermint is to maintain concentrated levels around potential spider spots. You may think peppermint is losing its intensity quickly when you sit near it. Remember, a spider is receiving the chemical information in a very different way. Still, you can enhance the impact by adding a few drops of peppermint oil to water and pure liquid soap like Castile soap from Amazon. Spray wherever you suspect there may be spider activity (and repeat every few days). It’s also worth placing a few peppermint leaves in select spots, such as near a window. Buy Bonnie Plants’ Peppermint in pots from Lowe’s. And for an instant hit you can add in ready-made form, try Mighty Mint Peppermint Oil Spray from Amazon, effective on spiders, roaches, ants and more.

5. Scented Pelargonium

Organic pest controls, as noted, can sometimes be received with a measure of skepticism – but if there’s one smell that seems to be broadly accepted as a problem for pests, it’s citronella. Famed for its reputation as a mosquito repellant, citronella is often used in outdoor candles and incense. With its distinctive lemony aroma, scented pelargonium variety ‘Citronella’ works in a slightly different way to other plants here. It works by repelling the insects on which spiders feed (including flies and skeeters), making the indoor space a lot less attractive for hungry arachnids.

As a pretty bonus, this spider-fighting fragrant charmer has one more joyful treat – lovely lavender pink flowers with crimson stamps which appear each summer. Grow some Clovers Garden Pelargonium ‘Citronella’, available from Amazon in a sunny window spot to make your home a lot less yummy to spiders. Don’t be afraid to crush a few of the leaves and scatter them in areas where you need to target more keenly. I’m a big fan of these potted tender perennials, but I have learned from experience that it’s best to keep this pelargonium separate to other scented forms so you don’t inadvertently muddle up the scents and negate Citronella’s potency.

6. Lavender

What plants keep spiders away while helping you sleep better? If you really want to send your spiders scuttling for the nearest floorboard and really rest easy, there’s one heavy hitter you can’t forget – and that’s lavender. For many of us, it’s the epoch of delectable fragrance, but a well positioned potted lavender is a source of misery for Mr Spider. Again, it comes down to the intensity and peculiarity (to an arachnid) of the heady perfume.

The best lavender varieties for scent intensity indoors tend to be the English types, where the heads are more tightly bundled. So if you are able to pot up some lavender as a houseplant, try a dwarf or compact English variety such as ‘Nana Alba’, ‘Little Lottie’ or old faithful ‘Munstead’ Lavender by Greenwood Nursery, available from Amazon. Give your indoor lavenders plenty of sunshine (ideally eight hours of direct light) or a grow light where natural light sources are limited. Make sure the potting soil is very well draining and mix in some coarse sand. Keep temperatures regulated around 60-70°F (15-21°C) and free from drafts or humidity.

To bolster the impact of fresh indoor lavenders, I also grow plenty of outdoor lavender and at this time of year, I’m lucky enough to have harvested and dried plenty of floral bundles that get placed in sneaky corners of the house as the autumn nights (and spiders) draw in. You can either tie these bundles and hang from pins and hooks au naturel, or secure in organza pouches like breathable Muslin Pouches With Drawstrings from Amazon, which allow the lavender fragrance to permeate. Not forgetting a few drops of essential oil like Majestic Pure Lavender Essential Oil With Glass Dropper from Amazon in your diffuser of choice.

Finally, Don't Forget…

Hopefully keeping these plants indoors, as live plants or as fresh (or dried) stem cuttings, can reinforce specific areas of your home that might be causing concern – and help to keep spiders from taking up residence. Knowing what plants repel spiders can genuinely make life more comfortable as you spend more time indoors. To be on the safe side, though, try to see these plants as part of a wider set of deterrents.

Don’t rely exclusively on just indoor plants that repel spiders – but use them together with other controls. If you are up to the challenge, it is worth sealing up any obvious gaps or cracks that might be worrying you. And don’t skip on cleaning – dust bunnies, clutter and other undisturbed residue can all signal safe havens for spiders. Be sure to dust and vacuum regularly, to help fight the good fight through spider season.

Would you like more ideas for timely jobs and seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Few plants captivate gardeners quite like lavender. With its vibrant purple blooms, intoxicating fragrance, and versatility in the garden, it’s no wonder lavender is a favorite from backyard plots to full-fledged herb farms.

If you’ve fallen in love with lavender and want to expand your collection without buying new plants every year, learning to collect your own seeds is the perfect next step. Not only is it cost-effective, but it’s also incredibly satisfying to grow lavender from seed you’ve harvested yourself.

Let’s dive into the what, when, and how of collecting lavender seeds—plus a few extra tips to make your experience even more successful.

How Does Lavender Produce Seeds?

Before you start snipping stems, it helps to understand how lavender sets seed.

Lavender plants reproduce through pollination. However, not all lavender varieties will produce viable or “true” seeds. Many popular lavenders, like Lavandula x intermedia (‘Grosso’ or ‘Provence’, for example), are hybrids. These may produce seeds that are sterile or won’t grow into plants that resemble the parent.

If you want to grow lavender from seed, start with an open-pollinated variety like English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia). It’s more likely to produce viable seeds that grow true to type.

When to Harvest Lavender Seeds

Timing is everything when it comes to seed saving. Harvesting too early means immature seeds that won’t germinate. Wait too long, and they may drop to the ground before you get a chance to collect them.

After blooming, the flowers fade from vibrant purple to a dull brown or gray. They'll dry out and become papery or brittle to the touch.

If you gently tap a flower head and seeds fall out, you're good to go. You might even notice some small, dark seeds already falling to the soil—a sign you need to collect soon or risk losing them.

If you’re unsure whether the seeds are viable, crack a few open. Mature seeds will be hard and dark-colored inside. Immature ones are often white or soft.

Harvest in the morning once the dew has evaporated, but before the heat of the day. This helps prevent condensation in storage.

How to Collect Lavender Seeds

Use the following steps to collect seeds from your lavender flowers:

1. Extract the Seeds

There are two main extraction methods you can use:

1. The Manual Method

This will get you every last seed, but it'll take a lot longer.

Hold a dried flower head between your fingers and roll or crush it gently over a clean surface like a plate or baking sheet. Tiny, dark brown to black seeds—about the size of ground pepper—will fall out along with dried petals and chaff.

2. The Shake Method

This method isn't as precise, but it's quick and efficient.

Place flower heads or full stems into a brown paper bag, large bowl, or ubiquitous Home Depot bucket. Shake, tap, or roll them around with your hands to dislodge the seeds.

You can also rub the flower heads through a fine mesh sieve, like this one on Amazon, to help separate seeds from chaff.

2. Clean the Seeds

Use a fine mesh strainer or a flat surface and gently blow across it to winnow away light, papery debris. For precision, you can use tweezers or your fingers to pick out any leftover chaff.

Don’t worry if it’s not perfect—a little plant material won’t hurt, but the cleaner the seeds are, the better they’ll store.

Seed Storage

After collecting your lavender seeds, proper storage is essential to ensure they stay viable until planting time. Seeds are living things, even in dormancy, and poor seed storage can cause them to lose their ability to germinate. Here’s how to keep your harvested seeds in peak condition.

The three enemies of seed longevity are heat, moisture, and light. Exposure to any of these can drastically reduce germination rates. To protect your lavender seeds:

• Use breathable seed containers like paper envelopes, small cardboard boxes, or mesh seed bags like these on Amazon.
• Place the containers in a sealed jar or airtight container with a desiccant packet (like these silica gel ones on Amazon) or even a few grains of dry rice to absorb any stray moisture.
• Store in a cool, dark location, such as a basement, cupboard, or refrigerator (not the freezer). Ideally, temperatures should stay between 32 F and 50 F (0 C - 10 C).

Stratification

Lavender seeds are notorious for low and uneven germination. But there’s a trick to improving your odds - stratification. To mimic the winter dormancy lavender seeds would naturally experience in the wild, follow these steps:

1. Moisten a paper towel and wring out excess water.
2. Sprinkle the seeds onto the towel, then fold it up and seal it in a plastic bag.
3. Place the bag in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 weeks.

After stratification, sow the seeds in a well-draining seed mix and place them under grow lights or in a sunny window. Be patient—lavender is slow to germinate, but with a little care and a lot of light, those tiny sprouts will emerge.

There are some gardening traditions that hold true even though they might seem a bit odd – such as planting aphid-loving plants like nasturtiums next to crops you want to protect, even though you know they will attract the very bugs you don’t want. Or using a pinch of cinnamon as an anti-fungal agent in the garden (and yes, this one has worked for me!). Then there are a few hacks I keep doing out of habit (like singing to plants, for instance – but maybe that’s a story for another time).

Still, there are certain rules that stick in your head and acquire a certain status, even though you’re not entirely sure where you first heard them. The 8-8-8 lavender rule is one such piece of advice I was told many years ago. And around this time every year, a little internal alarm goes off and I duly inspect my lavender bushes to assess my next steps. But what is the 8-8-8 rule, you may well be asking – and how can it help you maintain healthier, happier lavender shrubs and specimen plants? Here’s what I’ve learned about this lavender pruning tip, how it works for me, how you can use it, and how it can be adapted to suit your needs…

What is the 8-8-8 Lavender Rule?

At its heart, the 8-8-8 rule – or the rule of three-eighths – is a pruning maxim. Quite simply, it is a moment in the pruning calendar to pull out our snippers or shears, with a view to helping prepare our lavender plant for the slower months ahead. Over early summer, many of us will hopefully have been deadheading lavender plants to extend the flowering season. But the approach to the eighth day of the eighth month (8th August) is a chance to think about reducing our lavender plants by at least 8 inches (depending on the size and overall condition of the plant).

I’ve heard a couple of variations on this pruning rule, as it goes. One variation, which seems fairly hardcore, is to reduce your lavender plant so it is 8 inches (20cm) tall and 8 inches wide (again, allowing for size of plant). However, the variation I follow for lavender I am growing in the garden involves reducing the size of the plant by approximately eight inches all the way around.

This involves creating a more rounded, compact shape and removing tatty, leggy stems, dead branches and remaining flower stalks. The intention is to give lavender, whether potted or in garden beds or borders, the very best chance to slow down healthily on the approach to dormancy.

Why Does the 8-8-8 Rule Matter?

The lavender 8-8-8 rule provides a useful assist in determining a tidy-up operation – based on the idea that certain lavender flowers are starting to die back as August begins. It pinpoints a moment (after flowering, but before the fall) when it is good to prune lavender to allow it chance to rejuvenate and develop new growth before slowing down for the dormant period. Ideally, it’s a good idea to give lavender plants at least a month to recover from that ‘end of season’ pruning before the colder months kick in.

So the 8-8-8 rule for lavender matters as a barometer for formally marking the end of the flowering cycle, and welcoming in a quieter phase for growth generally, before the plants come to rest entirely. Making these important cuts now promotes a burst of new green growth which can establish before the plant starts to rest. It then wakes up next spring with the necessary foliage required to fire up the engines for the new flowering season. So this timely August prune is vital to helping the lavender ‘stock up’ on fresh supplies ahead of winter, basically.

That said, I take the 8-8-8 rule as a guideline and a prompt, rather than a set of rigid principles. For example, I was told that it can only be used with English lavender. This is based around flowering habit and flowering time (English tending to flower later than certain other types), but there will be variations depending on cultivar, weather, soil, and regional fluctuations.

I would take some cues from the plant in question – such as, is it still flowering, or has it stopped? Does the plant generally look a bit straggly? Are there any purely woody lavender bits that haven’t performed that well over summer? This can all help make a decision about how to apply the 8-8-8 rule on a case-by-case basis.

How Rigid is the 8-8-8 Rule?

The way you apply the 8-8-8 rule for lavender plants will hinge on a few specifics, but the exact nature of both timing and amount still requires a measure of instinct and adjustment. For me, the big determining factor is whether or not your lavender is indeed reaching the end of its particular flowering season. Some shrubs will seem to bloom all summer long. If your lavender plant is still looking flush and vibrant, I wouldn’t just start snipping out of some mechanical desire to follow the crowd. As with many tips, it’s one you can adapt for your own situation. It is, I believe, a valid checkpoint, though – a chance to inspect and assess, and formulate next steps.

The ‘hard pruning’ style does favor English lavender varieties, which can bounce back impressively from extensive late summer snips. Within that broad category, there is plenty of variety in terms of plant shape and size. Plant age and growing conditions (and location) should also be factored in. So in terms of rigidity, I would keep another saying in mind as you decide on the date and extent of your hard prune: check twice, cut once.

Look at the color of the flowers – if they seem gray, that’s the big clue. Pollinators will also tell you when the lavender’s flowers are on the way out – by refusing to flit around in the same way. Appraise the overall shape and spread of the plant – is it becoming unwieldy or ungainly? Look out for legginess, and also gaps in the plant. Where there are opportunities to reduce weariness but also give the shape a lift, don’t be afraid to use this rule to prompt a phase of targeted rejuvenation.

How to Prune with the 8-8-8 Rule

If you’re satisfied that your lavender has stopped flowering, is mostly covered in faded blooms, looks leggy and seems to have collapsed into itself, your summer cutting is sure to be beneficial. Make sure your shears, secateurs and pruners are sharp. I would also say it’s well worth using a measuring stick or measuring tape to check both the height and width of the plant. Again, some gardeners go in really hard with this haircut, and apply the 8-8-8 rule as leaving 8 inches rather than removing 8 inches. I would be looking to remove 8 inches (or thereabouts) but only if I was still confident that at least half the plant remained.

Where making cuts, don’t slice indiscriminately into the wood zone. Look closely and check along the branches. You don’t want to cut into the woody part – unless it looks fairly lifeless, hasn’t produced any green or bloom during the summer, and isn’t adding anything to the overall shape. The ideal is to cut just above the area where the foliage begins. Along the length of woody stems, where you see blue-green nobs of color, cut just north of those. The result will hopefully be a smattering of foliage color, with significant reduction in plant scale and shape. You can use this opportunity to take lavender cuttings and start off your next generation in pots.

I find it helps to use shears for bulk cuts and pruners for targeted, precise cuts. Cut just above a node (where the foliage meets the stem) to give the best chance at healthy regeneration. Take your time, and treat this rule as a great chance to set the tone for next year’s growth. You won’t need to feed your lavender after pruning – just the usual watering, and you’re done. When you aren’t able to get to this rule in time, and you miss out on a late summer cut, it’s best to wait until spring for a lighter prune – and resolve to go in hard at the end of next summer’s flowering phase.

Lavender Pruning Essentials

With key crops already in pots and beds, or already being harvested, you might be thinking that there aren’t that many vegetables to plant in August. But in fact, there are some cracking edibles very well suited to summer plantings, with warmer temperatures and longer days contributing to quicker development times.

This is a great time to plant certain veggies in the garden to continue your growing season and extend the harvest well into fall. It’s your chance to plant both quick-growing vegetable garden ideas and those that do well maturing in the cooler conditions that fall will bring. Exactly what you can plant now, and how you plant, depends on your hardiness zone and first frost dates. Here are some of the most reliable and rewarding vegetable plants to plant in August.

Best Vegetables to Plant in August

There are a few different strategies for August vegetable planting. Before choosing vegetables to plant now, consider your climate, likely germination times, first frost dates, and maturity times. Check your USDA hardiness zone for recommended vegetables to grow, plus your local area for the first frost. Consider the following as a plan for your August veg sowings:

• Continuing Succession Plantings: Maybe you’ve been planting certain vegetables in succession all summer to get a continuous harvest. Carry on with these for one or two more harvests, depending on the type of vegetable and your first frost date.
• Planting Cool Weather Veggies: August is an ideal time to start vegetables that grow well in the cooler weather of fall. They’ll get a good start in the warmth of the August garden and be ready to harvest as the growing season comes to an end.
• Starting Vegetables with Short Maturity Times: There are plenty of fall crops to plant in August. This is a good time to start veggies that mature quickly to sneak in a harvest as the seasons shift into fall.

Look at the maturity times for veggies you’re interested in starting from seed in August. Choose those that will mature by (or before) your first frost. Alternatively, select cool season crops that will tolerate some frost or colder temperatures.

If August is very hot where you live and garden, prep the soil before planting, especially before planting cool weather veggies. Make sure the soil is wet and has some shade to cool it down a little for more heat-sensitive plants.

1. Beets

Many root vegetables grow well in the cooler weather of fall and will even taste better after frosts or freezes. Beets belong to this category and so make great crops to plant in August. When growing beets, sow seeds 8-12 weeks before your first frost date for a sweeter flavor and a mid or late fall harvest. Keep growing beets well watered in the last hot days of summer.

For an early maturing beet variety, try ‘Early Wonder’ or ‘Boltardy’ for its excellent heat tolerance for summer planting. An absolute delight to grow in August is heirloom ‘Chioggia’, available from Burpee, with its distinctive pink and white swirls. You can harvest the baby roots when they are a couple of inches in diameter, and you can also eat the greens like spinach.

2. Radishes

There are several good reasons to plant radishes toward the end of summer. Like many other root vegetables, they prefer cooler weather and will even have a better flavor when grown during the ‘shoulder season’. Radishes also have fast maturity times and are ideal for succession planting several times.

Radishes are some of the best vegetables to sow in August because they are amongst the fastest growing veggies, maturing in just 3-5 weeks. If you start sowing in August, you can probably get several additional harvests this year. Great varieties for August sowing include ‘French Breakfast’ and zesty ‘Cherry Belle’, available from Walmart.

When growing radish from seed at this time, don’t forget white varieties like ‘Daikon’ or ‘White Icicle’ from Everwilde, also available from Walmart, which develop quickly and tolerate warmer plantings.

3. Carrots

These root vegetables can take a bit of time to mature, but it’s worth the wait. Carrots, like many roots, taste better and sweeter after temperatures cool down. In many growing zones, it’s possible to seed in the garden now and enjoy a mid or late fall harvest of sweet, delicious roots.

When growing carrots, you’ll find that germination rates do drop in the heat. If your August weather is hot, cool the soil before sowing seeds by keeping it moist and shading it. Sow more seeds than you typically would to counteract the lower germination rate. Good carrot varieties for faster growing and fall harvests include ‘Romeo’ or ‘Scarlet Nantes’ from Tomorrow Seeds, available from Walmart, which can be harvested 60 days from sowing.

4. Spinach

Spinach also fits the bill for a crop that grows quickly and loves the cooler weather of fall, making it another of the best vegetables to plant in August. When August is very hot, you might struggle to get spinach going, but if the end of the month is starting to get a little cooler, go ahead and sow some spinach seeds. You can have baby greens in about four weeks and mature plants that won’t bolt in six to eight weeks.

Good spinach varieties to start in August include ‘Amazon’ and ‘Mikado’ as they are less likely to bolt in summer temperatures. If you do have warm weather and you are deciding what vegetables to plant in August, you should also try New Zealand or ‘Malabar’ spinach, available from Burpee, for both heat and humidity tolerance.

5. Swiss Chard

This is another green you can start growing now for a quick harvest. Baby greens will be ready to harvest in as little as four weeks, depending on the variety. It will only take about 60 days to get fully mature chard greens. Chard is also great for growing this time of year because it tolerates light frosts but also the heat of summer.

While your spinach might struggle to get going if the weather is still hot, chard will be just fine. One fine chard variety for August sowing is ‘Fordhook Giant’, a cool season classic for ‘cut and come again’ harvesting through fall. Another gorgeous looking option for a late summer planting is ‘Bright Lights’, available from Nature Hills, with its rainbow of stems which can be harvested until winter.

6. Broccoli and Cauliflower

Broccoli and cauliflower both have long maturity times, as long as 100 days. On the other hand, they are among the most cold tolerant vegetables. They tolerate frosts and even light to moderate freezes, including temperatures down to about 26 degrees Fahrenheit (-3°C).

They can still be planted now in many areas, even if they won’t mature before the first average frost. There are some delicious broccoli varieties available at Burpee that can be sown in August for an autumn harvest. These include heirloom ‘Waltham 29’ and tender purple ‘Sprouting Burgundy’ varieties. For succession sowings of cauliflower, try ‘All The Year Round’ and ‘Snowball Y’, also from Walmart.

7. Kale

Kale belongs to the same family of vegetables (brassicas) as broccoli and cauliflower, and has a similar cold tolerance. In fact, kale, which some people find too bitter, begins to sweeten after it experiences a frost or two. Maturity times for kale range from 50 to 80 days. Choose a variety that suits your growing zone and expected frost times. Be sure to choose the right type of kale for eating, too.

Cool season favorites include ‘Red Russian’ and ‘Cavalo Nero’ from Tomorrow Seeds, available at Walmart. Ornamental kales have become increasingly popular as fall decorations. These are fun to grow, and are edible, but won’t taste as good.

8. Herbs

Many herbs bolt in the heat of summer, so now is a good time to sow seeds for another batch, especially if you grow in containers. Most herbs don’t take long to grow enough leaves for harvesting. If you start them now, you should be able to enjoy a fall harvest of basil, cilantro, dill, and other herbs without worrying that they’ll bolt and become inedible.

There are some exquisite basil varieties available from Burpee that would make excellent options for August planting. ‘Genovese’ and ‘San Remo’ are easygoing and quick to develop, whilst ‘Emerald Towers’ is a great late summer sowing for containers, raised beds and small spaces. And if you love Cilantro, sowing some ‘Calypso’ from Burpee is a great option as it is the least likely to bolt in summer.

Many types of lavender are a useful addition to most any garden. As an ornamental, blooms serve as an invaluable asset to pollinators. Growing different types of lavender plants within herb or vegetable beds may also serve a great many purposes.

Lavender has been praised for its use as a companion plant within vegetable gardens, and its purported ability to repel troublesome insects. Learning more about the different lavender varieties available to home gardeners can help those growing lavender for the first time select those which will thrive.

Check out these different types of lavender plants to see which is best suited for your garden and your needs.

Different Types of Lavender

Though most within the genus are quite similar, there are over fifty different types of lavender plants. Commonly cultivated varieties are generally divided into one of several categories, depending upon their species. Each plant will vary slightly.

Most often, these differences are related directly to requirements for growth and bloom period. In this article, we will explore the importance of distinguishing between these types, as well as learn more about each of their characteristics.

Choosing the Right Type of Lavender

Though there are hundreds of lavender plant varieties available to gardeners, deciding which to grow can be difficult. While some species will only flourish under very specific conditions, others may be much more adaptable.

Before planting, growers will need to consider their own garden spaces. This includes soil conditions, summer temperatures, and moisture levels throughout the growing season. It also depends what you will be doing with your lavender. Do you want it for a border plant, or are you looking for edible lavender for culinary use? With careful planning, gardeners are certain to enjoy gorgeous lavender blooms for many seasons to come.

English Lavender Varieties

Native to the Mediterranean, English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is commonly referred to by growers as “true” lavender. Varieties of English lavender are available in both large and compact forms. Most cultivars will begin blooming in early summer, producing immensely fragrant purple-blue flowers. When cooking with lavender, you should choose the English variety so your food doesn't end up tasting bitter or soapy.

Their long stems are ideal for use in cut flower arrangements, dried bouquets, and craft projects. Some of the most useful varieties of English lavender include ‘Hidcote’ and ‘Munstead.’

French Lavender Varieties

French types of lavender flowers are also quite popular. French and English lavenders are related, but French is better suited to warmer areas. Also known as Lavandula dentata, this species is ideal for use in pots, containers, and raised beds. French lavender is best grown in regions where winter temperatures remain moderate.

Growers should expect plants to begin blooming in mid to late summer. French lavender seeds and plants are commonly available at local nurseries each spring. The 'Royal Crown' variety of French lavender is a compact shrub that is perfect for cottage gardens.

Spanish Lavender Varieties

Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas) is most common in warmer regions that experience prolonged periods of drought. This waterwise species is able to withstand the harshest of conditions without noticeable decrease in the number or quality of flowers.

Disease-resistant plants are able to tolerate both heat and high humidity. Those who have grown Spanish lavender make special note of its unique, pine-like scent. The 'Royal Anouk' variety of Spanish lavender, available from Proven Winners, is a unique take on traditional lavender shrubs and is perfect for container gardening or landscape use.

Portuguese Lavender Varieties

Also known as Lavandula latifolia or spike lavender, evergreen cultivars of Portuguese lavender are praised for their immense ability to attract bees and other beneficial insects. Latifolia means "broadleaf" and you will notice that these varieties have much broader leaves than other types of lavender. They are ideal for use throughout the growing space, serving as an important companion plant.

Tolerant to drought, Portuguese lavender plants are best suited to drier regions and those with warm summer temperatures. Spike lavender seeds can be purchased from Eden Brothers and the plants are particularly fragrant.

Lavandin Varieties

Lavandin plant (Lavandula x intermedia) varieties are a type of hybrid. In most instances, these plants are created by crossing English lavender with another species. Hybrid lavenders are celebrated for their robust growth habit and overall vigor. This includes resistance to disease and damage caused by common garden pests.

These types are also among the most tolerant to cold. The 'Grosso' lavender variety is fairly common. Many lavandin varieties are considered to be the most fragrant of lavender plants.

July is a seriously busy time in the garden, with plenty of watering, weeding, deadheading, feeding – and hopefully admiring your handiwork with a hard-earned drink. However, while you might not want to think too far ahead, selecting plants to propagate in July gives you the jump on next year while saving money into the bargain. Summer is a great time to start off offshoots and cuttings of your favorite plants and shrubs as an easy insurance policy for next year’s garden.

There are some genuinely enticing benefits to starting cuttings at this time of year. Many favorite plants are either in full bloom or flush with young growth, which makes them as robust and healthy as you could wish for in any new plants you need. And while it’s satisfying to grow from seed, being able to root plant cuttings is a sensible way of ensuring that your new plants match the originals exactly. So what are you waiting for? Grab your clippers, and kickstart the next additions to your yard.

July in the Garden for Cuttings

Hopefully you’re already making some timely cuts in the garden – since there are several key plants to prune in July. With that in mind, you can combine the workload for garden favorites in need of a timely trim. Some popular herbs, perennials and tenders will be prime for root cuttings as high summer approaches – as will key climbing plants and larger shrubs.

Depending on the type and size of your plant, and the extent of any pruning required, taking plant cuttings in July is as easy as tailoring some of the prunings into shape. Even if you aren’t pruning a lot, you should be able to find a couple of areas of your plant that can offer up some decent softwood or semi-ripe cuttings.

Just keep some basic cutting housekeeping in mind as you prep for your propagating tasks in July. Take cuttings early in the day, when plants tend to be perkier and more lush. Disinfect and rub down garden scissors, shears, pruners and snippers to remove the risk of contamination. And don’t be afraid to dip your cuttings in a rooting hormone compound, whether power or gel based. If you don’t have one, improvise with a little gel from a freshly harvested handy aloe vera leaf!

1. Lavender

For anyone devoted to maintaining a healthy lavender, summer is a time for both maintaining existing plants and cultivating new growth. You should already be making time in high summer for pruning and deadheading lavender to ensure that plants are as healthy as possible ahead of the fall. Pruning gives you the perfect opportunity to factor in some lavender cuttings for new plants. These fragrant freebies make great additions for different parts of the garden, or to act as an insurance policy for tired-looking parent plants that might be past their bushy, scented best.

You can grow great plants from both softwood and semi-ripe cuttings, so lavender should be on everyone’s list of cuttings to take in July. Using a pair of sharp shears or snippers like Scotts All Purpose Serrated Shears from Amazon, select some prunings that are about six inches long (15cm) and non-flowering. Make sure you are cutting green and bendy cuttings from the part of the plant above the woody section, and remove any buds. Also remove all but three or four leaves near the top of each cutting.

Dip in some rooting hormone compound and then place your lavender in pots of coarse potting mix. Ideally, mix two parts potting mix to one part vermiculite, sand or perlite. Insert three or four cuttings into each small pot, checking that each insertion is secure but not forced in. Keep in a warm, bright location. Keep the soil just moist and wait four-six weeks for roots to take. Gently tug on cuttings for resistance, or wait for new growth, as signs that your cuttings have taken.

2. Geranium (Pelargonium)

Geraniums (by which we mean pelargoniums, scented geraniums and bedding plants) are some of the most rewarding plants to cultivate from summer cuttings. They do some of their most vigorous growth during the summer months, and because of this, new growth is strong, vital and highly adaptable to cultivating as offshoots. If you are looking to root pelargoniums or bedding geraniums, take 4-6in (10-15cm) softwood cuttings from the parent plants of your choice, selecting only the healthiest, non-flowering stems and removing the lowest leaves.

Place individual geranium cuttings around the edge of a pot of well draining compost. Keep the compost moist but not waterlogged and place the pot in bright but not direct sunlight. It’s best not to add plastic with these cuttings, as it can increase the risk of mildew. Geranium cuttings can take up to two months to develop, but can root in as little as three weeks, depending on warmth, humidity levels, geranium variety and the health of the cuttings of the geraniums you are starting in pots. Keep young geraniums indoors through autumn and over winter and then place outside from spring to cultivate the most vibrant, vigorous geraniums.

3. Coleus

The easy flamboyant charms of your garden coleus are itching to be replicated ahead of next year – and it couldn’t be easier to take cuttings in summer. There’s so much bushy growth to go at, you’re sure to find a few obvious candidates for clipping. You can start off cuttings in water or compost, so why not try a few using both coleus propagation strategies?

Starting cuttings in water gives you the advantage that you can see the roots forming, which is useful if you haven’t done coleus cuttings before. Make sure individual cuttings are a few inches long and only have a few leaves near the tops. Place in water, and replenish the water every few days to prevent fungal infections. Make sure your cuttings aren’t placed in direct sunshine as this can also increase the chance of disease. You should see roots form within a couple of weeks. Once roots are a few inches long, you can pot them on.

If starting cuttings in compost, make sure the potting mix is blended with some vermiculite or sand to assist with drainage. If possible, check the potting mix has a pH of 6-7, so it is neutral or slightly acidic. Keep the compost moist but not waterlogged, and place where it will receive sunlight but not be scorched by direct glare. Strong roots should have developed in three weeks, at which point you can transfer to larger pots.

4. Verbena

Verbena’s distinctive clouds of pinky purple color are instantly moreish. Yes, you can absolutely collect seeds from fading flowers to keep for next year – but if you don’t want to wait that long for your next fix, take softwood cuttings of verbena plants during July. It’s easy to propagate verbena as cuttings – snip sections of stem that are non flowering, positioning the blade directly above a node. Use a sharp, serrated blade with dedicated garden cutters like Miracle Gro’s All Purpose Garden Utility Serrated Shears from Amazon.

Remove the lower leaves from verbena cuttings so you can easily slide the stems into the potting mix. This mix should be grainy and coarse, so add some sand or vermiculite to assist with drainage. You may find it helps to cover the cuttings with a plastic bag to expedite the rooting process. When growing verbena plants from cuttings, you should see new growth inside a few weeks – a sign that the cuttings have rooted and are ready to pot on.

5. Clematis

If you’ve been enjoying your clematis for the past few weeks but been snipping away at fading deadheads, July is a perfect opportunity to lob off a few choice stems for new plants. If you want to propagate clematis cuttings, group 1 types are particularly reliable for July cuttings, although other types can still be started as long as they are healthy – and most importantly, not part of an actively flowering stem. You need to use your judgment when choosing stems for these semi-ripe cuttings – they need to be bendy but also firm.

To ensure you are growing clematis plants from the healthiest cuttings, take cuts between two leaf joints, making each cutting 4in (10cm) long. Remove the lower leaves, then dip the stalks in rooting hormone. Place cuttings in pots of multipurpose compost that has been blended with a little horticultural grit or sand. You will need a bit of patience if starting young clematis plants this way as roots can take up to two months to develop, even when growing conditions are kept moist and warm.

6. Rosemary

Although rosemary is one of our most popular garden herbs, it is also vulnerable to winter snaps, particularly in colder regions. So depending on your USDA region, it’s a good idea to start off some younger plants from cuttings, just in case. You can take softwood and semi-ripe cuttings during July. If you are already giving your rosemary plant a good prune, you can knock a few of the loose prunings into shape as long as they are healthy.

Once you have given these herbs a summer haircut, select a few prunings that are a few inches each in length. Remove all but the top few leaves from each cutting. Make sure you aren’t using any of the woody parts of the parent plant – stick to softer, pliable sections. Prepare some coarse potting mix, topped up with sand or an organic vermiculite like Back To The Roots Organic Vermiculite from Amazon to ensure ample drainage.

It’s best to start rosemary cuttings in compost or potting mix rather than in water – which is likely to result in fungal infections. Insert rosemary cuttings around the edge of your pots of grainy compost, then place in a sunny windowsill. Cuttings should take in a few weeks.

7. Hydrangea

You can propagate most types of hydrangea during July, including lacecap, mophead, panicle, and climbing varieties. July is a great time to take semi ripe cuttings from stems where you can feel some flex if you apply pressure. Make your cut just below a plant node and remove all but the top three or four leaves from each hydrangea cutting.

Ideally, each hydrangea cutting needs to be a few inches long so you are able to slide at least half the length into the potting mix. As a general rule, it’s best to avoid flowering stems, since your first priority is that your cutting is able to develop a strong root. Since your semi-ripe cuttings will have relatively firm ends, it’s a good idea to dip them in a strong rooting compound such as Doff’s Natural Rooting Powder from Amazon.

Mix some coir or sand into your potting mix to help with drainage. Hydrangea cuttings need good humidity in the first few weeks to ensure successful rooting, so cover with a propagation lid or a plastic bag to promote root growth. Once roots develop, you can reduce humidity levels. Be patient when growing hydrangeas from cuttings, though, as it can take a few weeks for rooting to take place.

8. Passion Flower

Softwood cuttings and semi-ripe cuttings are both options for gorgeous passion flower offshoots, which have a strong chance of taking if started off in July. When propagating passion flowers from cuttings, make sure your cuttings are both flexible and sturdy. Sometimes this does feel like searching for the Goldilocks ‘happy medium’ but ideally your cuttings do need to be both pliable and strong enough to hold a shape and reach sunlight as roots are developing.

For any passion flower cuttings you make, choose stems that are not flowering (or fruiting) and cut below a leaf node, removing the lower leaves. For the best passion flower care, choose cuttings that are 4-6in (10-15cm) long. Dip individual stems in a rooting hormone, whether that is powder or gel based. Make sure your potting mix is well draining, and add sharp sand or vermiculite to boost the coarseness of the mixture if need be.

Keep cuttings in clear plastic and maintain a warmth of 21°C (70°F) until the cuttings take. After a few weeks, tug on shoots to feel for resistance, at which point you can lower humidity levels. Don’t worry if it takes a few weeks. It’s not unheard of for healthy passion flower plants to develop from cuttings that take two months to start showing signs of growth.

Sometimes it’s a good idea to intervene and make a few snips before herbs get straggly or unkempt or, worse, before they bolt and run to seed. Not to mention, most herbs benefit from regular trimming beyond picking and harvesting in order to promote further crops for our enjoyment.

So why give common herbs a haircut in summer? Well pinching or cutting back the stalks encourages more stem and foliage growth. It also creates a healthier, balanced, rounded and bushy shape. Making smart cuts can also help prevent certain outdoor and potted herbs (such as thyme or basil) from getting woody. Trimming the herbs will keep them healthy and looking their best all season. Here are some of the herbs you need to line up for a summer cut to keep them happier for longer.

Trimming Herbie Plants in Summer

Learning how to trim herbs is easy. Pinch the new, tender growth just above a leaf node. If you need to do a lot of trimming, you can use scissors or herb snips wiped with rubbing alcohol to disinfect them. You can find a good range of both professional and affordable herb scissors at Amazon, with prices starting from $9.99.

Oregano and thyme can be pinched back regularly. Perennial herbs should not be cut more than a third of their length at any time. When herbs start to flower, pinch those off, too. By trimming herbs and pinching off the flowers, the plant will redirect its energy into producing leaves. So now you know how to trim your herbs, and why, here are the herbs that grow back better than ever with a haircut in summer.

1. Basil

Basil (Ocimum basilicum) benefits by frequent trimming, starting when it is 6-8 inches (15-20cm) tall. You can trim basil all summer to keep it bushy and growing and prevent it from flowering too soon.

When harvesting basil, cut just above a pair of leaves. If you are pinching basil to make the plant bushier, pinch off the tip of the stem. Save your basil pinches to toss into soups, stews, salads, or pasta dishes. You can pinch off the flowers as they form, too, and even use those in the kitchen.

2. Common Thyme

Clip the outer stems of common thyme (Thymus vulgaris) regularly to encourage bushiness. Never remove more than a third of the plant at one time. Harvest thyme plants right before it blooms when the essential oils are at its peak.

The flowers are attractive and great for pollinators, but if you want the best flavored leaves, you need to pinch off those blooms as soon as you see them. You can always allow a few stems to go to seed at the end of the season for propagation.

3. Lemon Balm

How do you trim herbs like lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) for the best results? It sounds drastic, but the most effective haircut is a big one. Cut around half your lemon balm in midsummer to produce new growth. To improve air circulation, cut out several stems from the center of the plant.

After flowering, if the plant looks leggy, cut it back to the ground and it will reward you with fresh, lemony leaves to use in tea and fall baking. Removing the flower stems will prevent its rampant reseeding.

4. Oregano

Pinch oregano (Origanum vulgare) stems back to a leaf node regularly to keep leaves young and fresh. Doing this will also help to prevent the plant from getting woody. You should also harvest oregano leaves each week. The plant will also need a haircut after flowering to remove flower heads and shape the plant.

5. Sage

You can trim sage (Salvia officinalis) in early spring as new growth starts. Cut 6-8 inch (15-20cm) stems as needed for culinary purposes. If you are growing sage as an ornamental, you can let the pretty purple flower spikes bloom in midsummer.

However, when sage is being grown for culinary uses, you should pinch off the flowers as they emerge to protect the flavor of the leaves. You should also cut sage back after flowering. This is in addition to picking sage herbs to eat.

As well as knowing how to cut back herbs like sage, it’s important to know exactly when – and when not to attempt those cuts. Avoid late fall pruning, which can damage the plant.

6. Spearmint

You should be clipping spearmint (Mentha spicata) as needed all summer. After flowering or at the end of summer, however, you also need to cut it back to 2 inches (5 cm) from the ground.

The spearmint plant will quickly regrow for use during the fall. Many other types of mint can be trimmed in the same way, including peppermint, spearmint, chocolate mint, apple mint and pineapple mint.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can lavender grow in shade? The short answer is – yes, and no. The slightly longer (and hopefully more helpful) answer is that it will struggle in complete shade – but it does stand a very good chance of thriving in partial shade where certain other conditions are met.

Making the most of lavender in shade relies on an understanding of what the plant needs, what your garden can provide, and how you can eke the most potential out of both, even when the sun seems elusive. It’s also about being willing to keep on top of plant vitality and development, every day if necessary, and being able to think creatively and make adjustments where necessary.

So if you’re looking to grow lavender, even if you aren’t blessed with an excess of natural direct light, these tips will help. Find out how to grow lavender in the shade – so it doesn’t just survive, but goes on to flourish.

Will Lavender Grow in the Shade?

Growing lavender in shade – well, let’s be honest, it’s not ideal. These plants are native to the Mediterranean and their preferred way of being is to soak up the sun, every day. A generous intake of sunshine (at least eight hours a day) is massively beneficial in the development of strong stems and masses of vibrant flowers.

A good source of light is also crucial in determining how aromatic your lavender plants will be. The more sunshine your plants receive, the more natural oils they will produce and the more potent their eventual fragrance will be. Of course, there are some variations depending on whether you are growing French or English lavenders, for example – but in the main, good light equates to stronger floral oils, which are essential for these quintessential cottage garden beauties.

Lavender also relies on regular exposure to direct light to help regulate soil conditions – lavender plants don’t like wet feet. As well as the primary issues of light deprivation, there are secondary issues relating to the quality of the earth in shady areas. Conditions are likely to be damper and cooler – an absolute anathema to lavender, which needs to be kept as dry and well drained as can be. If you stray from the light, you risk developing leggy plants that are starved of natural nutrients and lacking in vigor.

So will lavender grow in shade? They certainly can’t reach their full potential in total shade. However, it is possible to maintain healthy lavender in partial shade – as long as other elements of plant care are met, and certain ideas explored to their fullest. Here are a few easy ways to tip the balance in your favor where shade is an issue.

How to Grow Lavender in Shade

Now we’ve established the ideal growing conditions for lavender, and accepted that we need to compensate for a lack of light, here’s the good news. While lavender plants generally prefer at least eight hours of sun a day, certain varieties can manage well on six hours where other care essentials are covered. Make sure you have given due attention to water, soil and warmth, and you’re well on the way to vibrant lavender displays.

If you’re willing to adapt the way you grow your lavender, by thinking beyond conventional beds and borders, you’ll greatly increase your chances. Incorporating elements like extra lighting or vertical gardening are all ways of beating the odds and preventing the painful sight of a dying lavender plant. Create a warm, dry environment where the growing medium is well draining, and you can still enjoy lavender in areas where diminished natural light is an issue. Here’s how to get the most from a lavender plant in shade.

1. Understanding your Garden

Before growing lavender in partial shade, it helps to understand how light changes in your entire garden – and not just over the course of one day. Ideally, you need to have a solid awareness of how light plays over several days with different weather, and at different times of year. It’s not always possible to know this until you’ve seen your garden over the course of a year. But if you are pushed for time, you can learn a heck of a lot in a fortnight with the help of sunmapping.

Sunmapping is about tracking natural light in a methodical and systematic way. By making a sun map, you can process the impact of simple domestic objects and gardening supports – like clothes lines, freestanding shelves, or a trellis – on your gardening space. It is an excellent way of identifying the extent of issues you may have overlooked, like fence line shadows or overhanging tree branches.

Even making a simple decision like removing or cutting back a specific shrub can have a profound effect on light availability for sun-worshipping plants like lavenders. Every hour you can claw back can make the difference – so a full light audit is a great way of making those critical adjustments in an informed way. This is not just good for lavender planting, but for all manner of perennial flowers and shade plants.

There are a few gizmos that can help determine the exact distribution and quality of sunlight in your garden. Some of the calculators and meters available at Amazon, such as those manufactured by Rapitest, can help you identify which parts of your garden are less or more conducive to healthier lavender growing. You may be surprised at what you find!

2. Select the Best Varieties

If you want to grow lavender for partial shade, one of the best ways to stack things in your favor is by choosing varieties with some affinity to trickier, less-ideal areas. French lavenders (Lavandula stoechas) and fernleaf lavenders (aka French lace lavenders) are best if you need something that is more shade tolerant.

French and Spanish breeds (USDA zones 7 and above) are able to balance the light deficit against the support they receive from warmth, soil regulation, and good watering, especially if you grow your lavender in gravel-based or course-mix mediums. Conditional on some direct sunlight, you can also grow a couple of English lavenders in spots with partial shade – most notably, ‘Munstead’ and ‘Hidcote’. You can get ‘Hidcote Blue’ from Walmart, hardy in zones 4-9. You can also buy ‘Munstead’ lavender seeds and ‘Hidcote’ lavender seeds from Amazon.

Another great option for growing in partial shade is ‘Phenomenal’ lavender. This tough beauty has impressive resilience in less-than-great growing conditions, including damp and shade. ‘Phenomenal’ lavender seeds are available from Burpee.

3. Grow Lavender in Containers

Where some shade is inevitable, another way to court success with your plants is being open to growing lavender in containers and being willing to move your pots around a little. Experiment with different parts of the garden, and don’t be afraid to relocate containers if you feel like you missed the mark on your first attempt.

This is the beauty of container gardening – the flexibility it gives you to change the growing position. You just have to make sure that whichever pot you use (and preferably this should be a stone or clay-based pot), the growing medium is well draining and features a strong mix of gravel and sand as well as potting soil.

There’s another key advantage to growing lavender in containers – it allows you to experiment with different elevations. Deploying vertical gardening allows you to raise pots to a level where they can access light they might not otherwise be able to enjoy. Raised walls and shelves can similarly be used to literally bring your lavender into the light. Impediments to natural light on the ground can be irrelevant where plants are raised above them, thereby creating better growing conditions: win-win!

4. Create Extra Light Sources

As well as using elevation to bring plants into the light, you can also boost natural light levels with a couple of sensible planting strategies on the ground. Where you are growing lavender in ground-based containers, make sure you place containers (and individual plants) at good spacings from other plants, particularly taller plants (which cast more shadows). Steps are great for containers, but try to avoid placing lavender on lower steps, as they will then be competing for light in a different way.

Try to think about the 360-degree environment. As well as seeking to eliminate any barriers to light in the form of walls and so on, consider places where you can catch extra sunshine in multidirectional ways. For instance, think creatively by using windows or mirrors placed at strategic angles to capture reflected light.

Finally, where you have the opportunity to increase light in artificial ways, embrace it. There are grow lights available that can help boost light levels, whether that’s as part of a greenhouse culture, a balcony-based lavender planter, or something more adventurous that requires man-made light sources. The Relassy Outdoor Grow Light from Amazon is great for balconies and smaller spaces where sunlight can be hard to free up. You can find a wider range of grow light options at Amazon.

Frequently Asked Questions

The allure of lavender in a garden border or patio container cannot be overstated. Lavender flowers attract pollinators, and effortlessly add elegance and structure to low hedges and flower beds – and we all want those potent fragrant blooms to last for as long as possible. Knowing how to keep lavender blooming means you can enjoy the flowers for longer in the growing season – so if you’ve never bothered to deadhead lavender, this expert insight is going to transform your lavender enjoyment over summer. If you love growing lavender and want more of it, here’s what you need to know about why, when and how to get more lavender flowers by deadheading.

Why Deadhead Lavender to Keep it Blooming?

The process of deadheading flowering plants is an important step in encouraging repeat flowering of your lavender. Removing spent flowers means the plant doesn’t waste energy on them any longer. The process of removing them redirects the plant’s energy into making more flowers. This is why deadheading can lead to repeat blooms, and it’s something you can do for the duration of the flowering season.

Deadheading is a process that works to promote continuing and repeat flowering on many types of plants, including all types of lavenders. Those that naturally repeat bloom, like Spanish lavenders, benefit the most. Deadheading is equally effective for lavenders in pots and in the ground. So if you’re worried about a weary or faded lavender plant, or keen to keep your cottage garden classic bursting with blooms for longer, knowing how to deadhead lavender is your best chance for extended flowering.

When and How to Deadhead Lavender

So how do you deadhead lavender, and when? Timing is important for optimal deadheading. It depends on the type of lavender you have, and when it starts to bloom. But as a golden rule, the best time for removing lavender flowers is when they are fading. You can remove them before they are completely spent if you want to use the flowers. If not, remove them when all the flowers on a stem have faded.

Start with a sharp, clean pair of shears, snips or pruners. A clean cut minimizes stress to the plant. The Gardening Know How team loves the Felco 2 Bypass Pruner Classic from Walmart – it’s exceptional value for money, durable, hard-wearing and great for precision cuts. A decent budget option for left handed deadheading is the Spear & Jackson Razorsharp Left-Handed Bypass Pruner from Amazon, with its neat ergonomic action.

Find spent stalks of flowers and make a cut just above the last set of leaves before the flowers. You should soon see new growth near the cuts, which will likely flower later in the season.

Keep deadheading the lavender as needed, and as more flowers fade. They may not all fade at once, of course. Appraise your lavender plant every day, if you can. You cannot remove too many flowers. However, you can leave some on to go to seed if you want to collect the seeds for lavender propagation.

Deadheading versus Pruning

It’s important to remember that deadheading isn’t the same as pruning. Lavender pruning is also important for keeping your plants healthy, shapely and blooming. But they are implementing fresh growth in slightly different ways – one is prompting fresh blooming during the flowering season, while the other is helping you keep your overall plant in good shape ahead of the next dedicated season of growth.

Prune your lavenders annually, beginning in the second year. You can do light pruning at any time, but you should save the most drastic shaping for fall, after the last flowering. Cut lavender bushes back by about one third. Just don’t cut into the woody stems, as they won’t regrow.

What Else You Should Do to Help Lavender

Knowing how and when to deadhead lavender is a great way to encourage repeat flowering, but overall good care is essential. If you want to get more flowers, consider the growing conditions and take steps to optimize them. For example, you can use a bloom-boosting fertilizer to promote flowering. Feeding lavender plants early in the growing season can help with flowering and also create stronger stems for developing flowerheads.

Consider a potash-based feed, a diluted tomato feed, a seaweed-based supplement or a balanced flowering concentrate like Seedlingers Flower Food from Amazon to help give flowers a little kickstart. However, it’s important to avoid over-fertilizing lavender, as it can promote more foliage growth and fewer flowers. Too much overfeeding can also run the risk of root burn. It can even affect the intensity of the fragrance produced by the flowers. A little goes a long way, as they say.

Make sure your lavenders are watered regularly, but that they never get soggy. The soil should drain very well to avoid standing water. They also need full sun to bloom, so always plant lavender seedlings, cuttings or young plants in areas where they will get six to eight hours of sunlight.

Which Lavender Varieties Flower for the Longest

It’s important to choose lavender types that match your garden’s climate and growing conditions. To maximize repeat flowering of lavenders, consider the types that bloom longer and have the potential to flower more than once in a season.

Spanish lavender naturally blooms twice, or even three times, throughout the growing season. They bloom first in spring, again in summer, and sometimes, to a lesser degree, in fall. English and French lavender can be coaxed into reblooming with proper deadheading. Here are some examples of varieties that naturally bloom for longer:

• Hidcote: This English lavender has a long bloom period with a mounding shape. You can buy Hidcote Lavender from Nature Hills for a satisfyingly compact growth habit.
• Irene Doyle: This is one example of an English lavender that naturally blooms twice per season.
• Grosso: This French lavender is a larger lavender bush. You can grab Grosso lavender from Burpee for a longer-lasting bloom period than other types.
• Goodwin Creek Grey: This French lavender has an exceptionally long bloom period, from early summer right through early fall. It’s best for warmer climates, though.

Frequently Asked Questions

While it’s possible to dry or even freeze fresh herbs for later use, they’re always much more piquant when used fresh, which makes one wonder how to keep herbs fresh?

Some herbs are resilient, but others are tender and have a short shelf life. After harvesting herbs, storing them properly will extend the life of both varieties.

If you prefer to use your garden (or store bought) herbs fresh, keep reading to learn how to store fresh herbs.

How Long Do Fresh Herbs Last?

An herb garden is a beautiful thing. Herbs are quick to grow and taste amazing when picked fresh. They are perfect for even the laziest, busiest, or greenest gardener.

How long fresh herbs last really depends on two things: the type of herb and how you are storing it. To this end, it’s important to know what type of herb you’re dealing with. Herbs are loosely divided into two categories: warm weather and cool weather herbs.

Warm weather herbs, or woody herbs, primarily hail from the arid Mediterranean. They generally have woody stems, pungent aromas and are perennials.

Cool weather herbs, or tender herbs, thrive in cooler, more temperate environments than their warm weather cousins. They have tender green stems and are often annuals although there are some exceptions.

Harvesting Herbs So They Last Longer

While fresh herb storage is important to making these culinary plants last longer, how you harvest them is almost as important.

First you want to harvest herbs at their peak, before they go to bloom. Once they bloom, the herbs lose their flavorful aromatic oils which are responsible for their delightful flavor.

It doesn't matter if you have been growing herbs in containers or in the ground, harvest methods remain the same. Harvest herbs in the morning when their flavor is at its peak, the dew has dried and prior to the heat of the day.

Use sharp clean shears to snip leaves off at the node, or leaf set. Leave some foliage to allow for continued growth; never remove more than 1/3rd of the plant. You can also choose to remove the entire plant if you don’t want or care about further growth. You may also use your fingers to pinch off tender leaves like basil.

Different herbs have somewhat different harvesting methods. Chives can be cut to just a half inch from the ground. Cilantro, dill, and parsley should be cut from the outside to allow the tender young shoots on the interior to keep growing. Cut the top off of sage herbs to promote growth, or just harvest the largest, more mature leaves and leave the others to continue to grow.

What To Avoid When Storing Fresh Herbs

So how do you store herbs to keep them fresh longer? To figure that out, it’s a good idea to know what to avoid when storing fresh herbs.

Avoid excess anything. Excess moisture, light, or exposure to the air. These will all cause herbs to break down faster. Lack of moisture will also cut the herbs usage time by desiccating the leaves.

Temperature fluxes will also shorten the life of fresh herbs. For instance most fresh herbs should be stored in the fridge (with the exception of basil), but the back of the fridge often gets too cold, bordering on freezing which will kill off your herbs.

The last item is contentious. Washing your herbs. I am not a fan of washing herbs before storing them. When you wash them you invariably bruise the leaves which yes, smells lovely, but also opens the foliage up to any bacteria.

Plus, washing herbs doesn’t sterilize them, they still have bacteria growth, you’re just removing the worst of it while losing some of those precious essential oils responsible for all that good flavor.

Best Methods For Storing Fresh Herbs

There are many methods touted as the best for storing fresh herbs. Many people store their herbs wrapped up in either a wet or dry paper towel inside a plastic zipper baggie on a shelf of the fridge. Still others toss the herbs in a plastic bag then put it in the crisper of their refrigerator.

Other folks place their herbs, cut ends down, into a mason or other jar filled slightly with water. Some people cover the herbs while others do not.

I think the last method works the best for tender leafy herbs. I put my freshly cut herbs in a glass filled slightly with water into the refrigerator, attempting to keep it at the forefront and away from the colder back reaches.

I've found a better yet similar method is, instead of a jar or glass, I often use a tall plastic container with a lid. Fill the bottom with water and place the cut ends of the herb down into it. Gently tuck the green foliage into the container and seal it with the lid. No spills and the herbs will stay good for weeks.

For hardier herbs like rosemary or thyme, I wrap lightly in a damp paper towel, place inside a plastic bag and refrigerate; usually in my crisper.

Basil is a bit of a wild card. While it may seem hardy it has delicate leaves that bruise easily, so If I am taking an entire stem of the plant, I place it in a bit of water and store it out of the sun on the kitchen counter.

Frequently Asked Questions

It’s not an exaggeration to say that pollinators – think bees and butterflies and hummingbirds among others – make the world go 'round. Without pollinators, nature’s system of plant fertilization breaks down.

Yet, urban sprawl and the use of toxins in the environment are reducing pollinator populations with monarch butterflies and bees being the poster-children of this problem. Planting herbs for pollinators is one simple step everyone can take to help.

Flowering herbs like lavender and rosemary are among the most nectar-rich pollinator-friendly plants, and many are host plants for butterflies. Which are the best herbs for pollinators? We’ve put together a short list that includes herbs that attract butterflies, herbs that attract bees, and herbs that attract hummingbirds. It’s a great place to start.

Best Herbs For Pollinators

Herbs can be roughly defined as plants that valued for their medicinal, savory, or aromatic qualities. Most of us are familiar with culinary herbs (parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme!) – all of which are pollinator-friendly herbs as well. Some offer pollinators nectar and pollen, while others serve as host plants or offer shelter and nesting sites.

Which herbs attract pollinators? Here’s our shortlist of pollinator friendly herbs.

1. Rosemary

I always thought of rosemary as sprigs I bought in the grocery store until I visited the Bardenas Reales in Spain. There were fields of flowering rosemary, the fragrant leaves filled with heavy masses of indigo flowers. That changed forever my view of this popular cooking herb.

Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) is an evergreen shrub. It is an easy-to-grow, drought resistant plant and a gift for pollinators since it can flower all winter long in mild areas. Who likes rosemary nectar? The blue-purple flowers attract mason bees, bumblebees, and honeybees.

2. Borage

Borage (Borago officinalis) is another herb with vivid blue flowers. Considered an herb, it tastes like cucumbers but is often grown as a flowering plant. A friend of mine who is a beekeeper with an extensive vegetable garden introduced me to this lovely plant, and, at her house, the borage blossoms are always loaded with bees. The herb is also a larval host of the painted lady butterfly (Vanessa cardui).

Borage is an annual herb and extremely easy to grow. Although the gray-green foliage can look less than graceful, the flowers are shaped like drooping stars and last from spring through fall. These nectar-rich blooms are magnets for pollinators, especially bees with short tongues, like the buff-tailed bumblebee. Although it’s an annual, it self-seeds readily. My friend hasn’t planted any new borage seeds in a decade – the plants just keep growing!

3. Viper’s Bugloss

Here’s an herb that you may not have in a typical backyard herb garden – but consider adding it for the bees! Viper's bugloss (Echium vulgare) is a native plant that is easy to grow from seed. It also offers nectar-rich blue flowers that experts say replenish their nectar up to six times every hour. The herb produces dense clusters of upright spikes of vivid blue flowers.

Viper’s bugloss is a clumping plant and the clumps are magnets for pollinators all summer long as they take advantage of this all-you-can-eat buffet. It provides food for buff-tailed and red-tailed bumblebees, large skipper and painted lady butterflies, honeybees and red mason bees. The plant is an annual but reseeds itself every year.

4. Mint

Easy-peasy to grow, all varieties of mint (Mentha spp.) are likely to jump out of your beds and spread all over the garden. That’s why most of us use containers to grow this herb. It not only produces lots of useful herb leaves, but also prolific amounts of pale pink and purple flowers. They are incredibly rich in nectar and are a favorite of pollinators.

One great type of mint for pollinators is native mountain mint (Pycnanthemum muticum). Technically, it is not a true mint, but its tightly packed tiny flower clusters offer abundant nectar for pollinators, particularly bees. The plants bloom for months starting in early summer and attract bumble bees and other small-sized bees as well as another pollinator, the tachinid fly.

5. Basil

Basil (Ocimum basilicum) is one of the most familiar herbs of all, found in many kitchen and herb gardens. Its bright and happy green leaves add a spicy kick to food and drinks. But did you know that basil plants can also attract pollinators? The plant produces flower spikes with dozens of blooms that provide energy for pollinators, especially bees.

In fact, basil’s sole botanical purpose in life is to produce flowers. While you may snip these off for culinary basil, you don’t have to: just snip the leaves when you harvest basil. Leave those basil flowers for pollinators. If you allow some of your plants to go to seed, wild birds will thank you.

6. Oregano

This perennial is a classic culinary herb and very important in Italian cooking. Oregano (Origanum vulgare) grows almost a yard tall (1m) with olive green leaves and big flower spikes in purple, pink or white. It is sometimes called wild marjoram.

Oregano flowers in July, August and September. The nectar attracts short-tongued bumblebees and honeybees, as well as the common carder bee and the blue mason bee. The flowers also appeal to butterflies.

7. Agastache

You may know these herbs for pollinators as giant hyssops – but whatever the name you give the plant, it’s a real winner. Agastache (Agastache spp.) is an erect, clump-forming perennial that you only need to plant once, and it often self-seeds too, giving you more plants! Its aromatic foliage is filled with flowers in summer.

Agastache blossoms grow in thick spikes with stunning purple, pink, yellow or orange blooms. They are magnets for butterflies and bees, especially carder bees. Agastache is a favorite plant to attract hummingbirds, so much so that they are often referred to as hummingbird mint.

8. Lavender

These small evergreen shrubs are famed for their tiny purple flowers with a strong and attractive fragrance. Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) leaves are silvery, and the blooms appear on long, bare stalks at the tips of their branches.

The tall, pale blue flowers make many pollinators happy. They attract not just honeybees, but also butterflies, wasps and hornets – other important pollinators.

Tips For Growing Herbs For Pollinators

• Don’t use toxic pesticides anywhere in the garden. These can get transferred around the backyard by rainwater and contaminate your herb garden. There are natural ways to rid your garden of pests that are not harmful to your health or the health of pollinators.
• Use native plants as often as possible. They are easier to grow, easier to maintain, and assist native pollinators.
• Messy is better! Do not do an annual fall cleanup – instead, schedule a spring cleaning. Those old stalks, leaves and stems provide pollinators with winter shelter.
• Pollinators need water. Provide some type of water source, together with sticks or rocks to allow insects to land safely. I use a bowl filled with rocks, then add water, allowing the tops of the rocks to peep out. Another fantastic way to help thirsty pollinators is to use Bee Cups. These cute, handmade clay cups are designed to attract pollinators to drink. Bee Cups can be found on Amazon.

Growing herbs in hanging baskets can be especially useful for gardeners with limited space, or those hoping to enhance the look and feel of common areas. Most are surprised to find that a large number of species are suited to the creation of herb hanging baskets, offering growers a wide selection of plants from which to choose.

Careful planning and consideration at planting time will help to ensure that the needs of each type are met. The best herbs to grow in hanging baskets are those suited to the space. Growing herbs in containers is a great way to have herbs close at hand when cooking or if you only have a small space like a patio for a mini garden.

In most cases, hanging baskets for herbs will be positioned near porches or patios. This results in containers that receive varying amounts of sun and shade throughout the day. Other factors, such as moisture, will also play a role in deciding which plants might perform well.

Choosing The Best Herbs For Hanging Baskets

Diverse plantings, featuring an array of annual and perennial species can help growers to extend displays and add interest to the space. Varying heights, colors, textures and growth habits will further the appeal of mixed containers.

Taking design needs, light needs, and culinary desires into consideration can help you decide which herbs will work best for you. Let's explore some favorite herbs that do well in hanging baskets.

1. Creeping Thyme

Those in search of trailing herbs for hanging baskets often make use of creeping thyme. Though the plants are used most frequently as ground cover, mature specimens will flow freely from the sides of containers. Attractive foliage provides growers with memorable fragrance, giving way to a profusion of blooms in early spring.

Drought-tolerant plants aid in the creation of carefree mixed baskets, thriving through the entirety of summer. Varieties suited to growth in this manner include ‘Purple Carpet,’ ‘Pink Chintz,’ and ‘Elfin.’ Plants are considered hardy throughout USDA zones 4-9.

2. Greek Oregano

Greek oregano is ideal for hanging baskets due to its dense growth. Mature plants fill containers quickly, spilling from the edges. Like many other herbs, gardeners can expect the plant to fill the air with immense fragrance. Producing large numbers of flowers, the species serves both an ornamental and culinary purpose.

Plants are also known to attract pollinators, which feed on their nectar-rich blooms. Greek oregano is generally considered hardy throughout USDA zones 5-9.

3. Lavender

Growing lavender in containers or as part of a hanging basket garden is easy and a good idea if you have poor soil for lavender in the rest of your garden. Known for its preference for dry conditions, established plants will thrive within container culture. This is especially true of plants that receive bright sun throughout the day, aiding in the production of flowers. The plant's rich fragrance furthers the appeal of baskets situated where the delicate scent can be best enjoyed.

Types of lavender most suited to use in containers include ‘Sweet Romance,’ ‘Dwarf English,’ and ‘Dwarf Munstead.’ Plants will be hardy throughout USDA zones 5-9.

4. Marjoram

Similar to oregano, marjoram is beloved for its savory-sweet flavor. It also offers a great deal of ornamental value when used in hanging baskets. Herbs such as these will be tolerant to drought, making them ideal for use in carefree containers. Ample sunlight throughout the early morning hours will help to promote bloom, resulting in the prolific production of small purple-pink buds.

Popular species for use in containers include both wild and sweet marjoram types. Gardeners can direct the plant to behave as a perennial throughout USDA zones 4-10, varying accordingly.

5. Nasturtium

Nasturtiums are best known for their unique foliage and peppery taste. Vibrant, richly-colored flowers are especially attractive to pollinators, luring a wide range of beneficial insects. While some varieties will demonstrate an upright habit, trailing types will grow to spill gracefully from containers.

Nasturtiums planted as companions are believed to help repel pests and conserve moisture. Common cultivars for use in hanging baskets include ‘Peach Melba,’ ‘Amazon Jewel,’ and ‘Salmon Mousse.’

6. Parsley

Grown for its nutritional value, parsley is a welcome addition to edible hanging baskets. Compact plants add much-needed texture to mixed containers, with cool conditions allowing for continued harvest throughout the growing season. Plants will require routine watering in order to perform their best, preferring consistently moist conditions.

Types suited to use in hanging baskets include both flat leaf and curled varieties. The 'Lisette' parsley variety is a fast grower and is resistant to bolting. Growers living throughout USDA zones 5-9 can expect the plants to behave as a perennial.

7. Purple Sage

Known for their robust nature and resistance to disease, purple sage is a good choice for those hoping to attract pollinators. Plants grown in hanging baskets will remain relatively small, thriving even when conditions are less than ideal. Annual pruning of the woody perennial can help to promote growth, and aid gardeners in maintaining the desired size and shape of plants.

Purple sage can be used in cooking just as other varieties of culinary sage. Plants are generally considered perennial throughout USDA zones 5-9.

8. Scented Pelargonium

Pelargonium plants, or scented geraniums, are treasured for their immense fragrance and they are not true geraniums. Their scent, which ranges greatly by type, adds allure and appeal to most any container. This is especially true of hanging baskets that have been positioned so that they may be most enjoyed. Their leaves can be added to salads and their flowers are tasty in jellies, cakes, drinks and are great for candying!

Growers can expect the best performance where conditions remain relatively cool through summer. Scented geraniums for use in hanging baskets include ‘Attar of Roses,’ ‘Chocolate Peppermint,’ and ‘Northern Pine.’ Plants are considered hardy throughout USDA zones 10-11.

Whether or not you’re a major foodie, it’s easy to make a bundle of herbs for cooking. Spring is the perfect time to begin planting all your culinary herbs. You will have fresh herbs for cooking and grilling all summer. When fall and winter come around, you will be prepared with all your own dried herbs for soup season and all the warm comforting dishes you love.

Bouquet garnis are the classic French method for flavoring and garnishing braises, sauces, and of course soups and stews. A bouquet garni is simply a bundle of edible culinary herbs. Keep reading to learn how to make an herb bundle or bouquet garni.

What Is In A Bouquet Garni?

A traditional bouquet garni or “garnished bouquet” is often composed of just three fresh herbs: parsley, thyme, and bay leaf, usually wrapped in leek. This is an excellent healthy way to add flavor to foods that simmer rather than dumping in additional salt.

There is also a little less waste when using an herb bundle. You can use the parsley stems after plucking the tender leaves rather than tossing them out.

You can also adjust your bouquet garni according to your recipe or palate. You can use a variety of other herbs and spices like rosemary or peppercorn to deepen the flavor of the stock.

Although fresh herbs are traditional and impart the most flavor, in a pinch, you can also use dried herbs or dried herb bunches harvested from your own herb plants.

How To Make Fresh Or Dried Herb Bunches

Making a fresh herb bouquet garni is very simple. Using the leek as the outermost wrapping, lay equal-sized lengths of parsley and thyme inside the leek along with a bay leaf. The ratio is up to you however; traditionally you would use 4-6 parsley stems, 2-3 fresh thyme sprigs, and 1 bay leaf. You may also tuck in some peppercorns and garlic cloves.

Wrap the leek leaf around the seasonings and secure with butcher's twine or any food-safe unwaxed twine. You can leave a length of twine on the bundle to facilitate its removal or just pluck it from the hot food with tongs.

If you want to make herb bundles from the garden at their peak before winter sets in, harvest your herbs in the morning and then make the bundles. Omit the leek or fresh garlic in this instance. Just use equal lengths of herb and secure with butcher's twine. Leave enough twine on the end to hang the herb bundles to dry in a dry area of your home.

Bouquet garni is best fresh, but you may also freeze them, wrapped tightly in plastic wrap inside a freezer bag.

Variations Of Herb Bundles

The sturdier herbs such as rosemary, sage, summer savory, thyme, and parsley are the easiest to air dry. You can make a traditional bouquet garni to dry or make hanging herb bundles suited to various cuisines. You can also just make herb bundles composed of a single type of herb for later use. Other additions to a bouquet garni might be chervil, tarragon, or basil.

You can tweak fresh herb bundles according to the type of food you are preparing. For instance, if you are making something Asian maybe use Thai basil, ginger, lemongrass, or dried orange peel.

You can also use previously dried herbs to flavor your dishes. Cut cheesecloth into a small double square. Fill cheesecloth with a mixture of ¼ cup (60 ml) dried parsley, 2 Tablespoons (30 ml) dried thyme, 1 tablespoon (15 ml) dried ground bay, or 2 whole large bay leaves and gather the ends together to form a little sachet. Tie with butcher's twine or other unwaxed line.

More Herb Garden Inspiration

• Planting herbs together in one pot is a great way to save space and have all the herbs you need at your fingertips.
• Check out our picks for the 8 easiest herbs to grow from seed, so you can get growing with minimal effort.
• Take a walk on the wild side and try your hand at foraging for tasty and safe wild herbs in your neighborhood.
• Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter for more tips, tricks, and expert advice delivered right to your inbox.