Hibiscus disease is a cause for concern for those who grow these beautiful plants, known for their dazzling color and tropical vibe. Hibiscus is a much-welcomed addition to containers and the landscape. Though many types can be found growing only in frost-free climates, their hardy counterparts make the plant an attractive option for gardeners living outside these regions, as well.

Established shrubs are generally considered trouble-free, and are easy to grow. With the right hibiscus care, you should hopefully minimize the risks of problems. However, gardeners should keep a keen eye out for some of the most common hibiscus diseases and their symptoms. Here’s how to identify and tackle five big problems with hibiscus plants.

What is Wrong With My Hibiscus Plant?

A sudden change in appearance can be a sure sign of trouble in even the healthiest hibiscus plant varieties. Experienced growers know the importance of prevention and catching infection early, should they want to maintain a thriving garden. But accurately diagnosing hibiscus plant disease isn’t always as easy as it seems.

Environmental factors and cultural conditions play a role. It is for this reason that it is so important to become familiar with several of the diseases that may have the most impact on these shrubs. Below, we’ll take a closer look at five common diseases of hibiscus plants most frequently observed in the home garden and their treatment.

1. Hibiscus Leaf Spot

Experienced gardeners are likely to be quite familiar with the term leaf spot. In hibiscus plants, the disease is most often linked to the pathogen Pseudomonas cichorii. A diseased hibiscus plant is prone to infection in regions where rainfall is significant. High humidity and improper watering techniques, such as the frequent wetting of foliage, can also play a role.

Leaf spot is best identified by its characteristic lesions: dark spots, surrounded by a lighter yellow halo. Though minor instances of leaf spot can be controlled, we stress the importance of prevention. This includes making certain that new plants or plant cuttings are free of disease, and making sure you are using good watering and garden sanitation techniques.

2. Botrytis Blight

Also known as gray mold, botrytis blight in hibiscus plants is caused by fungi, Botrytis cinerea. Hibiscus plant diseases of this type most commonly affect flower buds, distorting growth and covering each with a grayish fuzz. Fortunately, the problem is seldom severe.

Infection can be prevented, with growers making certain to allow for adequate airflow between plants. Deadheading, or the removal of faded flowers, is also beneficial. Plant matter showing signs of the disease should be clipped and removed from the garden immediately. Should the problem persist, the use of a fungicide may be necessary.

3. Dieback Disease

Problems with hibiscus plants often coincide with changes in growing conditions. Such is the case with dieback disease. Dieback occurs when damage to the plant has allowed fungus or bacteria to enter the stem. Foliage will then begin to wilt, as it cannot sustain growth beyond the injury.

Over time, the entire stem will begin to change color and rot away. If you suspect this hibiscus disease, removing broken or damaged stems is key to the control of dieback and to making certain the infection does not persist. All debris should be removed from the garden and disposed of to prevent its reintroduction.

4. Hibiscus Wilt Disease

Hibiscus plants may wilt for a variety of reasons. While sudden changes of weather or overwatering may be the culprit, one cause is much more serious: hibiscus wilt disease. In infected plants, pathogens prevent the root system from functioning properly. This obstructs the distribution of water and nutrients throughout the plant.

Early signs of infection include veiny foliage and pale or distorted leaves. Though some growers have found success digging and treating the roots of plants, the process is difficult and is often unsuccessful.

5. Powdery Mildew

Like many garden plants, powdery mildew may be prevalent where conditions are ideal. The arrival of cooler weather in late summer often contributes to its spread. Growers who suspect this hibiscus disease may first notice spores on the surface of leaves, causing them to take on a white, powdery appearance.

Left untreated, infections may spread quickly, covering the entire plant. Though mildew only seldom leads to serious problems, its presence can greatly impact the appearance of flowering beds. Infected plant matter should be removed from the garden promptly, as soon as symptoms appear to prevent its spread.

Frequently Asked Questions

Hibiscus is a garden favorite for its variety of species and unique, beautiful flowers. The history of hibiscus is one of uncertain origins and so much hybridization that the plant we use now in gardens almost doesn't resemble natural species. 

Hibiscus Plant Origins

One of the most popular and common types of hibiscus found in today's gardens is Hibiscus rosa-sinensis. The species name means rose of China, but experts believe that hibiscus more likely originates from India. An early hibiscus researcher, Ross Gast, sailed the world looking for the plant's true origin. He believed that people from India spread hibiscus south and into the Pacific Islands. 

Hibiscus Flower History of Cultivation

The hibiscus may not be originally from China, but this is where the earliest and most extensive cultivation of the various species began. Europeans picked up hibiscus plants when exploring China centuries ago and introduced them back at home. One of the earliest descriptions from Europe is of a double red variety in 1678.

The plants quickly grew in popularity in Europe. They became what were known as stove plants. As tropical flowers, they could not survive year-round outdoors but could be brought in to overwinter in kitchens, by the stove. 

The Pacific Islands play a big role in the history of hibiscus plants. In many of the islands, the hibiscus has important cultural meanings. Nowhere in the Pacific does hibiscus have a richer history than in Hawaii. 

Hawaii has its own native species of hibiscus, and these were crossed with imports from other islands and China to make many of the cultivars we know so well today. The combination of different species produced spectacular plants and flowers, like no other native hibiscus. 

These spurred even more interest in hibiscus cultivation. The first hibiscus show was held in Hawaii in 1914. After that show, cultivation boomed and thousands of new cultivars were produced. In 1923, Hawaii made hibiscus its official flower. 

Hibiscus and its cultivation became more popular in the continental U.S. in the 1950's. Interest in the species also spread to Australia where some of the most important work with hibiscus plants carries on today.

Gardeners usually grow hibiscus for their showy blooms but another type of hibiscus, cranberry hibiscus, is used primarily for its gorgeous deep purple foliage. Some folks growing cranberry hibiscus know that it has another lesser-known attribute as well. It’s edible!

What are Cranberry Hibiscus Plants?

Cranberry hibiscus plants (Hibiscus acetosella) are multi-stemmed shrubs that grow from 3 to 6 feet (1-2 m.) in height with green/red to burgundy serrated leaves. The foliage looks much like that of Japanese maple.

Cranberry hibiscus is also referred to as African rose mallow, false roselle, maroon mallow, or red leaved hibiscus. Cultivars to look for include:

• ‘Red Shield’
• ‘Haight Ashbury’
• ‘Jungle Red’
• ‘Maple Sugar’
• ‘Panama Bronze’
• ‘Panama Red’

The plants bloom late in the growing season with small dark crimson to purple flowers.

Cranberry Hibiscus Info

Cranberry hibiscus plants are native to South Africa; the tropical, subtropical, and arid regions of South, Central, and North Africa; and the Caribbean.

It is assumed to be a hybrid of a wild African hibiscus species, but today’s cultivars are believed to originate in Angola, the Sudan or Zaire, and then purported to have been introduced into Brazil and Southeast Asia early on as a crop.

Is Cranberry Hibiscus Edible?

Indeed, cranberry hibiscus is edible. Both the leaves and flowers can be ingested and are used raw in salads and stir fries. The flower petals are used in tea and other beverages. The flowers are harvested once they have folded and are then steeped in hot water or blended with lime juice and sugar for a delicious beverage.

The tart leaves and blooms of cranberry hibiscus plants contain antioxidants, calcium, iron, and vitamins B2, B3, and C.

Growing Cranberry Hibiscus

Cranberry hibiscus plants are tender perennials in USDA zones 8 to 9 but can be grown as annuals in other zones. Since they bloom so late in the season; however, the plants often are killed off by frost well before bloom time. Cranberry hibiscus may also be grown as a container specimen.

Cranberry hibiscus favors full sun but will grow in light shade, albeit a bit leggy. It grows in a variety of soil types but does best in well-draining soil.

Cranberry hibiscus plants look wonderful planted in cottage gardens or other perennials groupings, as a single specimen plant, or even as a hedge.

Cranberry Hibiscus Care

Cranberry hibiscus plants are, for the most part, disease and pest resistant.

If left to their own devices, cranberry hibiscus plants tend to grow rather lanky, but they can be reined in by pruning them repeatedly to not only maintain a bushier shape but to restrain their height as well. Prune cranberry hibiscus plants when young to shape them into a hedge.

Cut the plants back at the end of the season, mulch well, and depending upon your USDA zone, they may return to grow a second year.

You can also take cuttings in the fall to save plants for the next growing season. Cuttings will easily root in either soil or water and will do well as indoor potted plants during the winter months.

Hibiscus is a gorgeous tropical shrub that thrives in the warmer environments of the southern United States. Although most gardeners like to purchase young hibiscus plants from garden centers or nurseries, you may want to try your hand at sowing hibiscus seeds.

While it does take longer to grow hibiscus from seed, it can be a rewarding, productive activity, and an inexpensive way to fill your garden with these amazing plants. Let’s learn how to plant hibiscus seeds, step by step.

Hibiscus Seed Propagation

You can plant freshly harvested hibiscus seeds directly in the garden in autumn if you live in a very warm, frost-free climate. However, most gardeners prefer to start seeds indoors. Here’s how to go about it:

Nick the seeds with fine grade sandpaper or the tip of a knife to allow moisture to enter the seed. This step isn’t absolutely required, but it provides a jump start on hibiscus seed germination. Nicked seeds usually germinate in a month or less, otherwise, hibiscus seed germination may not occur for several months.

After nicking the seeds, soak them in warm water for at least an hour, or overnight.

Fill a container with good quality seed starting mix. (Avoid mixes with fertilizer pre-added). Any container with a drainage hole will work, but if you’re planting several seeds, celled seed trays are convenient.

Water the seed starting mix until it’s evenly moist but not dripping wet or soggy. Hibiscus seeds will rot in too much moisture. Plant hibiscus seeds to a depth of about one-quarter inch to one-half inch (.5-1 cm.).

Hibiscus seed germination requires heat, so a location where temps are maintained between 80 and 85 degrees F. (25-29 C.) is ideal. You may need to set the tray on a heat mat to provide adequate warmth. Cover the tray with clear plastic or slide it into a white plastic garbage bag.

Check the tray daily. The plastic will keep the environment moist, but it’s critical to water lightly if the seed starting mix feels dry. Remove the plastic and put the trays under fluorescent bulbs or grow lights as soon as the seeds germinate. The lights should be on sixteen hours per day.

Move the seedlings to individual, 4 inch (10 cm.) pots when the stems begin to get woody and have several sets of leaves. Handle the seedlings carefully as the stems are easily broken. At this point, begin feeding the seedlings an all-purpose, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half-strength.

Gradually move the young plants into larger pots as they grow. Plant the hibiscus plants outdoors when they’re large enough to survive on their own. Be sure there’s no imminent danger of frost. Otherwise, you may continue to grow them as houseplants but allow them to enjoy the warmer months outdoors.

The Texas Star hibiscus is a moisture loving variety of hibiscus that produces large, striking, star-shaped flowers in both white and bright crimson. Keep reading to learn more about Texas Star hibiscus care and how to grow Texas Star hibiscus plants in the garden and landscape.

Texas Star Hibiscus Info

There are at least 200 distinct species of hibiscus in the world, which means there should be one for every gardening need. So, what is a Texas Star hibiscus and what sets it apart? The Texas Star species (Hibiscus coccineus) is native to the southern United States and pacific coast. It is hardy in USDA zones 8 to 11, though it will die back to the ground and regrow in the spring in colder areas, sometimes as cold as zone 5. It goes by several names including swamp hibiscus, scarlet rose mallow, and red hibiscus. It is best identified by its flowers, which are sometimes white but often deep, bright red. The flowers have five long, narrow petals that form an unmistakable star shape. These flowers can reach 6 inches (15 cm.) in diameter. The plant usually reaches 6 to 8 feet in height (2 m.) but can grow as tall as 10 feet (3 m.). Its leaves are long, and star shaped, and it often gets mistaken for marijuana.

How to Grow Texas Star Hibiscus Plants in the Garden

Texas Star hibiscus care is easy, as long as you meet the plant’s growing requirements. It is native to swamplands, and it does best in damp areas, such as the borders of ponds or low spots in the garden. That being said, it will tolerate some dryness, and growing a Texas Star hibiscus in a traditional garden bed is fine, as long as it gets frequent watering. It performs best in full sun or partial shade. It attracts grasshoppers, which will chew on the leaves and flower buds. These are best removed (or squished) by hand.

Hibiscus varieties range from annuals to perennials, hardy to tropical, and large shrubs to smaller plants. When you understand what all the options are, you can choose the perfect types of hibiscus for your garden or indoor space.

About Hibiscus Plant Types

There is a huge variety of hibiscus plants with a lot of differing qualities, but they all have certain characteristics in common. These plants produce pretty flowers and come in range of colors, either single or double in form. The flowers on hibiscus varieties only last about one day, but the entire plant blooms for a long season. Thanks to their flowers, all hibiscus plants draw in pollinators, including bees.

Varieties of Hibiscus

Among the various kinds of hibiscus plants are hardy and tropical specimens, native plants, annuals, and perennials. There are also related plants, like hollyhock, common mallow, and even okra. Some of the main categories of hibiscus include:

Native hibiscus. Also known as rose mallows, there are about 35 species of hibiscus native to parts of the southeastern U.S. A popular native variety is the scarlet rose mallow, common in Florida, which can grow to 4 to 8 feet tall (1 to 2.5 m.). Rose mallows are also called marsh hibiscus, and although they naturally grow in wetlands, they will tolerate drier areas.

Hardy hibiscus. These cold-tolerant, perennial shrubs can be just as beautiful as their tropical counterparts, with big showy blooms in a range of colors. A popular hardy hibiscus variety is Rose of Sharon, with pink, white, or purple flowers.

Tropical hibiscus. These types of hibiscus have some overlap with the native species that grow in Florida and southern Louisiana. The most common tropical hibiscus found in nurseries is Hibiscus rosa-sinensis. Different cultivars will give you a choice of flower color and size. They can be very large and showy, with bright and rich colors.

Perennial hibiscus. These are shrubs, which can range from smaller, dwarf varieties to large, tree-like bushes. The perennial hibiscus may be hardy or tropical, and include Rose of Sharon, scarlet swamp hibiscus, rose mallow, and confederate roses.

Annual hibiscus. Contrary to the name, these are not true annuals, but they are tropical and can be grown as annuals in slightly cooler climates. They are often grown in containers and include Chinese and Red Leaf hibiscus. The former comes in a variety of colors, while Red Leaf is grown mainly for its deep red foliage. With so many options for growing hibiscus, every gardener in every setting can find a type that will grow and thrive while adding beauty to the garden.

Commonly known as hardy hibiscus, perennial hibiscus may look delicate, but this tough plant produces huge, exotic-looking flowers that rival those of tropical hibiscus. However, unlike tropical hibiscus, hardy hibiscus is suitable for planting as far north as USDA plant hardiness zone 4, with very little winter protection.

When it comes to pruning perennial hibiscus, there’s no need for stress. Although this easy-care plant requires very little pruning, regular maintenance will keep it healthy and promote better, bigger flowers. Read on to learn how and when to prune perennial hibiscus.

How to Prune a Perennial Hibiscus

Hardy hibiscus pruning isn’t complicated but there are a few things you should know in order to keep the plant looking its best.

Cut any dead stems or branches down to about 8 to 12 inches (20-30 cm.) in fall, just before applying a protective cover of mulch. Remove the mulch in spring, when you’re sure there’s no danger of hard freezes. If any branches froze during the winter, cut these to the ground.

When new growth appears, you can trim and shape the plant, as desired. Keep in mind that perennial hibiscus is a slow starter, so don’t worry if no growth is present in early spring. It may take a string of warm days before the plant decides to emerge.

Pinch back growing tips with your fingers when the plant reaches a height of about 6 inches (15 cm.). Pinching will encourage the plant to branch out, which means a bushier plant with more blooms.

Don’t wait too long, as flowers bloom on new growth and pinching too late may delay flowering. However, you can pinch the plant’s growing tips again at 10 to 12 inches (25-30 cm.) if growth appears spindly or thin.

Deadhead wilted blooms throughout the season to keep the plant neat and to encourage a longer blooming period. To deadhead, simply pinch the old blooms with your fingernails, or snip them with pruners.

Some types of perennial hibiscus can be rambunctious self-seeders. If this is a concern, be vigilant about deadheading old blooms, which will prevent the plant from setting seed.

Can hibiscus change color? The Confederate Rose (Hibiscus mutabilis) is famous for its dramatic color changes, with flowers that can go from white to pink to deep red within one day. Almost all hibiscus varieties, however, produce flowers that can change colors under certain circumstances. Read on to learn more.

Reasons for Color Changing in Hibiscus

If you’ve ever noticed the flowers on your hibiscus turning a different color, you’ve probably wondered what was behind the change. To understand why this happens, we need to look at what creates flower colors in the first place. Three groups of pigments create the vibrant color displays of hibiscus flowers. Anthocyanins produce blue, purple, red, and pink colors, depending on the individual pigment molecule and the pH it is exposed to. Flavonols are responsible for pale yellow or white colors. Carotenoids create colors on the “warm” side of the spectrum – yellows, oranges, and reds. Each hibiscus variety has its own genetics that determines what pigments, and what range of colors it can produce. However, within that range, temperature, sunlight, pH, and nutrition can all affect the levels of different pigments in a flower and what color they appear. The blue and red colored anthocyanins are water-soluble pigments carried in the plant sap. Meanwhile, the red, orange, and yellow carotenoids are fat-soluble pigments created and stored in the plastids (compartments in plant cells similar to the chloroplasts that carry out photosynthesis). Therefore, anthocyanins are less protected and more sensitive to environmental changes, while carotenoids are more stable. This difference helps explain the color changes in hibiscus. Anthocyanins exposed to hot conditions will often break down, causing flower colors to fade, while carotenoid-based colors hold up well in the heat. High temperatures and bright sunlight also enhance carotenoid production, leading to bright reds and oranges. On the other hand, plants produce more anthocyanins in cold weather, and the anthocyanins they produce tend to be more red and pink colored as opposed to blue or purple. For this reason, some anthocyanin-dependent hibiscus flowers will produce brilliant color displays during cool weather or in partial shade but will fade in bright, hot sunlight. Similarly, flavonols exposed to high temperatures will fade from yellow to white, while cold weather will cause an increase in production and a deepening of yellow flower colors.

Other Factors in Hibiscus Color Change

Some anthocyanin pigments will change color depending on the pH they’re exposed to within the flower. The pH doesn’t usually change over time within a hibiscus flower because it is determined genetically, but patches of different pH levels can lead to multiple colors occurring within one flower. Nutrition is also a factor in color changes. Adequate sugar and protein in the sap are required for anthocyanin production. Making sure your plant has enough fertility and nutrients is important for vibrant colors in anthocyanin-dependent flowers. So, depending on its variety, your hibiscus changed color because of some combination of temperature, sunlight, nutrition, or pH has taken place. Can gardeners control this hibiscus color change? Yes, indirectly – by controlling the plant’s environment: shade or sun, good fertility, and protection from hot or cold weather.

Leaf drop is a common ailment of many plants. While leaf shed on deciduous and herbaceous plants in autumn is expected, it can be very worrisome in midsummer if plants begin to drop their leaves. It can also be very frustrating when you have done everything by the book for your plant, only to be rewarded with abnormal yellowing and dropping of leaves. Though any plant may experience this problem for various reasons, this article will specifically discuss hibiscus leaf drop.

Hibiscus Losing Leaves

Hibiscus plants are generally separated into two groups: tropical or hardy. Many of us in cooler climates still grow tropical hibiscus, but as annuals or houseplants that are moved in and out of the house depending on the weather. Sensitive to cold and environmental change, leaf drop on hibiscus can merely be a sign of stress from this change. A tropical hibiscus that has spent all winter in a toasty, warm home may go through shock when set outside in cooler spring weather. Likewise, a container grown hibiscus can go through shock and stress just by being located too close to a drafty window. Whether tropical or hardy, hibiscus leaves falling off usually indicates some sort of stress to the plant. If you are noticing leaf drop on hibiscus plants, there are a few questions you'll need to ask.

Reasons for Leaf Drop on Hibiscus Plants

Has the plant recently been transplanted or repotted? Leaf drop is a common symptom of transplant shock. Usually, once the hibiscus plant begins to adjust to its new environment, the shock will pass. You'll also want to consider if the plant has been exposed to any extreme temperature changes, which can be very stressful for hibiscus, as mentioned above. Controlling temperature changes is an easy fix, and the plant should recover quickly. If leaf drop on hibiscus is happening and you've ruled out transplant or temperature shock, you may want to examine your watering and fertilizing habits. Has the plant been receiving adequate water? Does water pool up around the plant when you water it? Hibiscus leaf drop can be a symptom of too much or too little water, as well as inadequate drainage. Hibiscus plants have high watering needs, even once established the plant will likely need regular waterings during hot, dry periods. As much as they like water, though, they do need adequate drainage. When was the last time you fertilized? In addition to water, hibiscus plants need regular feeding, especially during its bloom period. Fertilize hibiscus plants once a month with a well-balanced fertilizer for flowering plants. Other factors to examine when a hibiscus plant drops leaves is pest or disease. Scale is a common pest of hibiscus. Scale looks just as the name suggests, like tiny scales forming on the plant. Aphids also commonly attack hibiscus plants. Both these insects are tiny, sap sucking pests that can quickly infest a plant, cause disease, and eventually result in the plant's death. They often attach themselves to a plant around its leaf joints or on the underside of leaves on the leaf veins because of the high flow of plant sap in these areas. As the bugs feed on the sap, they essentially starve the plant and leaves will drop. Additionally, the pests are commonly to blame for secondary fungal diseases too, which may appear as a fuzzy gray mold. This mold is actually a fungal disease that grows on the sticky honeydew secreted by the bugs. It would be wise to treat the plant with a fungicide and pesticide, such as neem oil.

How To Identify And Control Unwanted Bugs On Hibiscus Plants

Most would agree that finding pests on hibiscus plants can be an immediate cause for concern. Though many common garden insects are considered beneficial, some species can quickly decrease the ornamental value of plants and may even harm or kill them. Learning to properly identify these troublesome pests will help you protect and treat your hibiscus beds before infestations become severe.

Common Hibiscus Pests

Aphids

The term “aphid” is commonly used to describe varying species of small, sap-sucking insects. Hibiscus plants in the home landscape are susceptible to damage caused by these pests, specifically, the cotton-melon aphid. As they are quite small, close inspection of the plant’s leaves and stems may be required. Common signs of aphid damage include stunted growth and the yellowing of the plant’s foliage.

Mites

Due to their size, spider mites are difficult to identify. However, gardeners often note a whitish “webbing” on the underside of the plant’s leaves as an indication that they are likely present. Large numbers of mites will cause yellowing foliage and premature dieback. Most populations can be removed from the plants with a simple blast of water.

Beetles

Japanese beetles are known for their ability to quickly destroy plant foliage. These large, iridescent beetles are easy to identify, feeding throughout the day, in plain sight. Though infestations of Japanese beetles seldom lead to the loss of hibiscus plants, their presence will decrease the plant’s overall health and ornamental appeal. Seasonal beetles can be hand-picked from plants or treated with insecticidal soaps.

Ants

Ants are commonly observed on hibiscus flowers because of their sweet nectar. Considered to be a good food source to ants, the insect will not cause damage to the plant or its flowers. Should the hibiscus show signs of stress, the presence of ants may indicate trouble with aphids, as they are attracted to the “honeydew” produced by the pests as they feed.

Sawflies

Hibiscus sawflies are known for their ability to quickly defoliate plants, leaving an unattractive lace-like appearance. After long periods of feeding, sawfly caterpillars will use hibiscus as a host plant for their cocoon. Sawfly caterpillars can be removed by hand-picking or the use of insecticidal soaps.

Whiteflies

Whiteflies are yet another small garden pest. Infestations first become noticeable when large numbers of nymphs cover both the top and underside of plant leaves. Though whiteflies can be treated with insecticides, experienced growers often suggest removing and destroying infected plants or foliage.

Mealybugs

Though most common indoors, mealybugs may also feed on plants in flower beds. These pests suck sap from the plant, causing damage to leaves and stems. Over time, injured hibiscus foliage will yellow and begin to turn black. Severe instances of mealybugs may be difficult to control, as their unique wax-like body makes them more resilient to insecticidal soaps.

Thrips

Thrips are a common source of damage to hibiscus foliage. Though small numbers of thrips are unlikely to cause notable injury to plants, large infestations may contribute to a diminished appearance, yellowing of leaves, and stunted growth. Hibiscus thrips may also cause flowers to become discolored or drop from the plant prematurely.

Scale

Various types of scale are considered to be extremely harmful to hibiscus plants. Rounded pests attach to stems and are covered in a protective waxy layer. Severe instances of scale are likely to lead to premature leaf drop, stem die-back, and the loss of plants. Most growers report success controlling scale through the use of neem oil or insecticidal soaps.

Other Pests on Hibiscus Plants

Twig pruner larvae, or borers, are also quite common in hibiscus plants. These pests burrow into the stems of plants and feed until they emerge much later in the season. Hibiscus plant bugs (Niesthrea louisianica) may also be an issue. However, damage caused by these insects is generally isolated to the plant’s seed and seed pods.

Hibiscus Pest Control

Biological Control Methods

When it comes to hibiscus, beneficial insects can play a major role in the biological control of pests. Many beneficial species feed on and actively help to control nuisance pests. Diversity among garden beds will help attract these “good bugs,” as well as serve as an invaluable resource to pollinators.

Cultural Control Methods

Bugs on hibiscus can also be controlled with the use of cultural methods. In most instances, this refers to the removal of pests by hand-picking. Other cultural controls include the management and removal of decaying plant matter and the use of proper garden sanitation techniques.

Remember to wear gloves while handling hibiscus with insects, like this pair of COOLJOB Gardening Gloves pack of 2 from Amazon.

Chemical Control Methods

Chemical controls for the home garden vary greatly in terms of purpose and strength. Though effective, these products should always be used with care. Before use, gardeners should familiarize themselves well with each manufacturer’s label for safety, paying close attention to timing and application. Many chemical controls will also harm visiting pollinators and beneficial insects present within the ecosystem.

Note: Any recommendations pertaining to the use of chemicals are for informational purposes only. Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and more environmentally friendly.

More From Gardening Know How

Hibiscus Care
● How to Care for Hibiscus Plants
● Hibiscus Varieties
● How to Prune Hibiscus
● Hibiscus Propagation

Hibiscus Problems
● Top 5 Hibiscus Issues
● Hibiscus Blossoms Falling Off
● Hibiscus Leaves Turning Yellow
● Powdery Mildew on Hibiscus

Pest Control
● Weird Slug Hacks
● Herbs That Repel Ticks
● Non-Toxic Pest Control Tips
● Does Foil Deter Pests?

Growing hibiscus plants is a great way to bring the tropics into your garden or home. Planting tropical plants in non-tropical climates can be tricky though when it comes to light, water, and temperature requirements. The amount of sunlight you get in your garden may not be what your new tropical plant is used to getting. Keep reading to learn more about light requirements for hibiscus plants, both indoors and out.

Light Requirements for Hibiscus

How much light does a hibiscus need? As a rule, a hibiscus plant needs about six hours of full sun per day in order to bloom to its fullest potential. It will still grow perfectly well in partial shade, but it won't fill in as fully or bloom as spectacularly. The more light a hibiscus gets, the better it will bloom, up to a point. There is such a thing as too much light, especially when it’s combined with hot and dry weather. If you live in an especially hot and sunny zone, your outdoor hibiscus will actually benefit from a little bit of shade, especially to protect it from the bright afternoon sun. This can be achieved well by the dappled shade of leafy trees planted to the southwest of the hibiscus. Despite the light requirements for hibiscus plants, it’s possible to grow them indoors. You just have to make sure conditions are bright enough. Always place your container-grown hibiscus in a south or southwest-facing window where it can get the lightest possible. Being positioned in a sunny window is usually enough to keep a hibiscus plant growing and blooming well. If you simply can’t meet hibiscus light requirements from sunlight alone indoors, you can always supplement with artificial lights. That’s basically the gist of it. Keeping your hibiscus healthy and happy is easy when you provide what it needs – adequate water, warm temperatures, and plenty of light.

Hibiscus is a gorgeous plant that sports huge, bell-shaped flowers. Though tropical types are typically grown indoors, hardy hibiscus plants make exceptional specimens in the garden. Wondering about the difference between hardy hibiscus and tropical hibiscus? Want to learn how to grow hibiscus outdoors in the garden? Read on.

Hardy Hibiscus vs. Tropical Hibiscus

Although the flowers may be similar, hardy hibiscus plants are very different from the fussy, tropical hothouse plants available in floral shops and grown indoors. Hardy hibiscus is a non-tropical plant that tolerates punishing winters as far north as USDA plant hardiness zone 4 (with protection), while tropical hibiscus won’t survive outdoors north of zone 9. Tropical hibiscus is available in single or double blooms in colors that include salmon, peach, orange or yellow. On the other hand, hardy hibiscus plants comes in single forms only, with blooms of red, pink or white – often as large as dinner plates. Tropical hibiscus displays deep green, glossy leaves, while the heart-shaped leaves of hardy hibiscus are a duller shade of green.

Hibiscus Care Outdoors

Hardy hibiscus plants are surprisingly easy to grow as long as you provide them with well-drained soil and a spot in full sunlight. The secret to success is to water enough to keep the soil evenly moist. This plant doesn’t absolutely require fertilizer, but a general-purpose fertilizer will promote vigorous growth and support blooming. Don’t worry if your hardy hibiscus plants die to the ground after a hard frost in autumn. Just cut them down to a height of 4 or 5 inches (10-13 cm.), and then wait for the plants to regrow from the roots in spring once temps begin to warm back up again. Don’t assume your plants have died if they don’t show up with the first hint of spring, as hardy hibiscus generally doesn’t make an appearance until May or June – then they catch up in a hurry with masses of blooms until fall.

My hibiscus has white fungus, what should I do? White powdery mildew on hibiscus is a common problem that usually won’t kill the plant, but the powdery substance can definitely detract from its lush appearance. If you own a hibiscus with powdery mildew, all is not lost. Read on to find out more.

Symptoms of Hibiscus with Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew begins as white spots that turn gray or tan as the fungus grows and covers more of the foliage. The fungus causes stunted growth and in severe cases, the leaves may wither and fall off the plant.

Powdery Mildew Treatment on Hibiscus

If a hibiscus has white fungus, it’s important to tackle the problem as soon as possible; once the problem is established, it becomes more difficult to control. There are several possible treatments, but chemical fungicides, which are toxic and aren’t always effective, should always be a last resort.

How to Get Rid of Powdery Mildew: Cultural Controls

• Keep your hibiscus healthy, as strong plants are able to withstand powdery mildew better than weak, stressed plants.
• Water your hibiscus at the base of the plants and not on the leaves. Morning is the best time to water because the leaves will have plenty of time to dry.
• Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, as lush, new growth is more prone to disease. Don’t fertilize hibiscus when powdery mildew is present.
• Be sure hibiscus plants aren’t crowded since fungal diseases thrive in warm, humid conditions with poor air circulation. If the shrubs are crowded, consider transplanting them to a space where they have more room to breathe.
• Trim affected growth immediately. Dispose of diseased plant material carefully and never place it on the compost pile.

Powdery Mildew Treatment on Hibiscus: Fungicide Sprays

• Neem oil– A mixture of neem oil and water is a safe, organic solution for powdery mildew. Mix the spray at a rate of 2 tablespoons (15 ml.) neem oil to 1 gallon (4 L.) of water. Use a pump sprayer, like this Chapin USA 20005 2 Gallon Pump Sprayer from Amazon, to apply the solution every week until the mildew is no longer visible. Some gardeners like to add a teaspoon of liquid dish soap to the neem oil solution.
• Baking soda– You can also try an organic spray consisting of a teaspoon of baking soda, a few drops of vegetable oil, and a quart of water. Spray the mixture on affected leaves.
• Commercial sprays– Although a number of chemical fungicides are available, many gardeners prefer to use products containing sulfur or copper every 7 to 14 days, or as recommended on the product label. Fungicides are generally effective only early in the season. Once powdery mildew is established, fungicides tend to be ineffective and usually aren’t recommended.

Also known as Chinese hibiscus, tropical hibiscus is a flowering shrub that displays big, showy blooms from spring through autumn. Growing tropical hibiscus in containers on a patio or deck is a good option; hibiscus performs best when its roots are slightly crowded. Read on to learn more about tropical hibiscus container gardening.

Container Culture for Chinese Hibiscus

Tropical hibiscus thrives in warm, humid climates. The plant performs best when it receives at least six to eight hours of sunlight per day, however, afternoon shade is beneficial in hot climates. Move tropical hibiscus to a sheltered location or bring it indoors during the winter if you live in a climate with chilly winters. The shrub doesn't tolerate temperatures below 45 degrees F. (7 C.). Place the plant in a shady location for two weeks before you move it indoors so it can acclimate to its new environment. Move the container outdoors gradually in the spring when the temperature reaches 45 to 50 degrees F. (7-10 C.).

Planting Hibiscus in Pots

Plant hibiscus in a pot filled with a lightweight, well-drained potting mix, such as a product that contains compost and perlite or vermiculite. Although tropical hibiscus loves sunlight, it helps to place a newly-planted hibiscus in the shade for about two weeks so the plant has time to adjust, then move it into bright sunlight. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole in the bottom to prevent root rot and other diseases caused by poorly drained soil and excess moisture.

Hibiscus Container Care

Growing tropical hibiscus in containers can be tricky. The plant requires consistent watering because potting mixture dries quickly and tropical hibiscus tends to turn yellow and drop flower buds without adequate water. Check the plant often because it may require watering twice daily during hot, sunny weather. Tropical hibiscus requires nitrogen and high levels of potassium. Feed the plant lightly but regularly, using a water-soluble fertilizer formulated for hibiscus. You can also use a slow-release fertilizer, which lasts for up to six weeks. Watch for pests such as:

• Spider mites
• Aphids
• Thrips
• Scale
• Whiteflies

Most pests are easily controlled with insecticidal soap spray. Apply the spray when the sun isn't directly on the foliage, as the spray may burn the plants. Never spray when temperatures are above 90 degrees F. (32 C.). A cool morning or evening is best.

Your landscape is an ever-evolving work of art. As your garden changes, you might find that you have to move large plants, such as hibiscus. Read on to find out how to transplant a hibiscus shrub to a new place in the garden.

Hibiscus Transplant Info

There are two tasks you want to complete before moving hibiscus plants:

• Start digging the planting hole in the new location. Getting the shrub quickly planted in the new location reduces moisture loss and the chance of transplant shock. You will probably have to adjust the size of the hole when you are ready to plant, but getting it started gives you a head start. The planting hole should be as deep as the root mass and about twice as wide. Place the soil you remove from the hole on a tarp to make backfilling and cleanup easier.
• Cut the shrub back to about one-third of its size. This may seem drastic, but the plant will lose some of its roots to damage and shock. A reduced root mass won't be able to support a large plant.

When to Move Hibiscus

The best time to move a hibiscus is after the flowers fade. In most parts of the country, hibiscus shrubs finish blooming in late August or September. Allow enough time for the shrub to become established in the new location before freezing temperatures set in.

Moisten the soil and then dig a circle around the shrub. Start digging 1 foot (0.3 m.) out from the trunk for every inch of trunk diameter. For example, if the trunk is 2 inches in diameter (5 cm.), dig the circle 2 feet (0.6 m.) out from the trunk.

Once you have removed the soil all the way around the roots, drive a shovel, like the Truper 31200 Tru Pro 29-Inch Round Point Shovel from Amazon, under the roots to separate the root ball from the soil.

How to Transplant a Hibiscus

Place the shrub in a wheelbarrow or cart to move it to the new location. To avoid damage, lift it from under the root ball. Place the shrub in the hole to judge the depth. The top of the soil should be even with the surrounding soil. Transplanting hibiscus into a hole that is too deep may cause the lower part of the trunk to rot.

If you need to add soil back to the hole, press it down firmly with your foot to create a firm seat. Hibiscus shrubs grow best in the long run if you use the soil you removed from the hole as backfill. If the soil is poor, mix in no more than 25 percent compost.

Fill the hole one-half to two-thirds full and then fill with water. Press down firmly with your hands to remove any air pockets. After the water soaks through, fill in the hole until it is level with the surrounding soil. Don't mound the soil around the trunk. Water the shrub slowly and deeply.

It needs lots of moisture during the first four to six weeks after transplanting, so you'll have to water every two to three days in the absence of rain. You don't want to encourage new growth, so wait until spring to fertilize.

The flower of an hour plant (Hibiscus trionum) gets its name from the pale yellow or cream colored blossoms with dark centers that only last a fraction of a day and don't open at all on cloudy days. This charming little plant is an annual hibiscus, but it self-seeds vigorously so that it comes back each year from the seeds dropped by the previous year's plants. Also called Venice mallow, the delightful flowers and interesting growth habit makes it well worth adding to your beds and borders. Read on for more flower of an hour info.

What is Flower of an Hour?

Hibiscus flower of an hour is technically a perennial in frost-free areas, but it is usually grown as an annual. It forms a neat mound about 18 inches to 24 inches (46-61 cm.) tall and blooms between midsummer and early autumn. The flowers are pollinated by nectar-feeding insects, including bumblebees and butterflies, which hover around the plant during the bloom season. Once the flowers fade, inflated seed pods take their place. They open when ripe, scattering seeds indiscriminately throughout the garden. The plant can become weedy and, in fact, is listed as an invasive species in Washington and Oregon.

Growing Flower of an Hour

Growing flower of an hour is easy, but you won't find bedding plants so you'll have to start them from seeds. Sow seeds outdoors in fall and they will germinate in spring when the soil stays warm both day and night. Since they are slow to emerge, mark the spot so you can remember to leave them plenty of room. You can get a head start by starting the seeds indoors four to six weeks before the last expected frost date. They can take two months or more to germinate. Give flower of an hour plants a location in full sun with rich, moist soil that drains well. If the soil isn't particularly rich, amend it with compost or other organic matter before planting. Use 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) of mulch to help the soil hold moisture. Water the plants slowly and deeply in the absence of rain, stopping when the water begins to run off. Pull back the mulch and spread 2 inches (5 cm.) of compost over the root zone in midsummer before the plants begin to bloom. Picking off faded blossoms may help prolong the bloom season and prevents self-sowing, but it may be more trouble than it's worth because of the number of blossoms produced.

There are many different types of hibiscus, from their hollyhock cousins to the smaller flowering rose of Sharon, (Hibiscus syriacus). Hibiscus plants are more than the delicate, tropical specimen that goes by the name Hibiscus rosa-sinensis. Most are herbaceous perennials, dying to the ground in winter. Lush, beautiful flowers appear in summer, dying back to be replaced with more of the bountiful blooms the following year. The attentive gardener, accustomed to removing the spent blooms of many flowering plants, may nonchalantly be deadheading hibiscus too. While this task is seemingly part of the process of hibiscus flower care, maybe we should stop and inquire "do you have to deadhead hibiscus?"

Pinching Off Hibiscus Blooms

Deadheading, the process of removing fading flowers, can improve the appearance of the plant and prevent reseeding. According to information about hibiscus flowers, deadheading hibiscus is not a necessary part of hibiscus flower care. This is true for tropical hibiscus flowers, for rose of Sharon and for other types of hibiscus family blooms. If you're pinching off hibiscus blooms, you may be wasting time and actually preventing a late show of hibiscus flowers. You may also be delaying next year's flowers. Information on this subject indicates you may be inhibiting additional blooms later in the season, as these flowers are actually considered to be self-cleaning, dropping off on their own and replaced with new buds.

So, Do You Have to Deadhead Hibiscus?

More info on the subject of, “Should I be deadheading hibiscus?” indicates it is okay to remove the blooms if they are sickly or if you don't need the plant to bloom later in the season. Since most gardeners can't imagine not wanting more hibiscus flowers, however, we should probably stop deadheading hibiscus plants. For sickly specimens or those that don't have long-lasting flowers, substitute fertilization for the process of deadheading and watch how that works out for you instead. Re-evaluate growing conditions for your hibiscus plant, making sure it is getting full sun and growing in rich, loamy soil that is well-draining. This is likely a better solution for sickly hibiscus flowers.

Hibiscus plants bring a tropical feel to the garden or interior. There are hardy hibiscus varieties but it is the Chinese, or tropical, variety that produces the lovely small trees with braided trunks. The braided hibiscus topiary forms a slender trunk with a closely cropped ball of foliage at the top. 

The plant will produce the large, deep throated flowers for which hibiscus are noted. Braided plants can be costly and take years to mature in a greenhouse. When you know how to form a hibiscus braided tree, you can save money and have the satisfaction of creating a beautiful plant work of art.

What is a Braided Hibiscus?

Tropical Chinese hibiscus is suitable for USDA plant hardiness zones 9 and 10 but makes excellent patio plants in summer where temperatures are cooler. Bring the plants indoors and they will reward you with flowers in winter. Most forms are small shrubs to diminutive plants, no taller than 5 to 6 feet (1.5-2 m.) tall. 

What is a braided hibiscus? These forms are made up of several young Chinese hibiscus trees which have had their stems trained together early in their growth. Growing braided hibiscus trees from these young plants takes several years and some maintenance, but it is not difficult to make a braided hibiscus topiary.

How to Form a Hibiscus Braided Tree

First you need to get your hands on four young trees with stems no thicker than a pencil. At this size the plants are usually just less than 2 feet (61 cm.) tall and have small, but well formed, root systems. You can get the plants from cuttings that you grow, at a nursery, or online. 

Plant all four little plants in a deep pot as closely together as possible, then you simply take the slender stems and lay them one over the other. Start with the two outside and twist them together once. Then add the third, twist, and then the fourth. Continue the process until you have looped all the stems together up to the top foliage. Tie them together lightly at this point.

Braided Hibiscus Care

The plant's canopy needs shaping after you braid the stems. Prune out straggly stems until it has a round appearance. Over time, you will need to continue to prune to keep the shape. Place the plant in bright sun with protection from high heat at midday. Braided hibiscus care for the next few years consists of plenty of water. They may need water every day in summer, but halve the applications in winter. In spring, fertilize with a diluted plant food and give the plant a haircut. 

Early spring or late winter, before the plant is actively growing again, is the best time to trim stems and regain the shape. Repot the plant every three years in good houseplant soil. If you want to bring the plant outside, gradually introduce it to brighter light over a week or two. Make sure you bring your braided hibiscus topiary inside before cold temperatures arrive.

Hibiscus flowers bring a touch of the tropics to your home interior or exterior. Most varieties are warm season plants but there are some hardy perennial specimens suitable for USDA Plant Hardiness zones 7 or 8. The plants are easy to grow in slightly moist soil and full sun sites. While they have few problems with pests, sucking insects can cause distorted foliage and make hibiscus leaves all sticky. This is honeydew on tropical hibiscus or perennial plant leaves. It can cause sooty mold and problems for plant's photosynthetic process.

Hibiscus Leaves All Sticky

A tropical hibiscus with sticky leaves or your hardy perennial in the garden with sooty black moldy leaves, both have the same problem. The honeydew on tropical hibiscus and perennials causes a gummy coating, which can be host and fuel to fungal spores that cause the sooty mold fungus. So where does honeydew come from? It is the excretion of several sucking insect pests. The presences of ants on your plants will verify that hibiscus pests are present and the gum is not from another source. Ants use the honeydew as a food source. They will even herd some sucking insects to keep the source of fuel consistent.

Hibiscus Pests

Many types of insects create honeydew. Aphids, scale, and mites are the most common causes of the sticky stuff.

• Aphids are members of the spider family and have eight legs. They come in a wide variety of colors, some with striping or spots.
• Scale may be hard or soft bodied and cling to stems, twigs, and other plant parts, often blending in with the plant's flesh.
• Mites are nearly impossible to see but you can check for them easily. Place a piece of white paper under the plant and shake. If the paper is coated with dark specks, you probably have mites.
• A tropical hibiscus with sticky leaves is also likely to be a victim of pink hibiscus mealybug. They look much like any mealybug but are pink with a waxy coating. In Florida, they have become quite a nuisance and are very common bugs on hibiscus plants.
• Other hibiscus pests include the whitefly. These tiny whiteflies are unmistakable and are often found on indoor plants.

Damage from Honeydew on Tropical Hibiscus

The honeydew coats the leaves and prevents the plant from harvesting sun energy to maximum capacity. The sticky coating also inhibits respiration, which is a natural product of photosynthesis where plants release excess moisture. Completely coated leaves will die and drop off, which limits the solar surfaces the plant has to collect solar energy. Leaves also distort and become stunted. This results in a sickly plant that may fail to perform to its best potential.

Killing Bugs on Hibiscus Plants

In most cases, a horticultural soap or neem oil is effective in reducing the population of hibiscus pests. You can also rinse off the plant to get rid of soft-bodied insects, like the aphids. There are also several insecticides specifically formulated for the individual pest. Identify the pest correctly and only use formulas for that type of insect to avoid killing beneficial insects.

Learning about hibiscus propagation is an exciting way to have more of these lovely plants. Hibiscus plants lend an inviting, tropical feel to any environment, inside or out.

Both hardy and tender types are celebrated for their large, vibrant blooms and immensely attractive foliage. Learning how to propagate hibiscus is an important part of hibiscus care, as it enables you to multiply your favorite cultivars. Below, we will explore how to propagate hibiscus plants in greater detail, including growing from seed and taking cuttings.

Which Types of Hibiscus Can You Propagate?

The first step in determining how to best propagate hibiscus is to identify the plant by type. Knowing the specifics of different hibiscus varieties can help you determine the best course of action and ultimately increase your chances of success.

While those grown as annuals are most frequently propagated by seed, specific hybrids or perennials may require propagation through cuttings, layering, or in water to ensure that each new plant will grow true-to-type.

Propagating Hibiscus from Stems

Experienced gardeners have been able to propagate hibiscus plant cuttings through the soft, semi-hard, hardwood segments. Though the timing and preparation of these cuttings will vary between types, the same general process applies. You'll need to ensure that your pruners are clean and sharp, like the Felco F6 Hand Shears from Amazon.

Prepared cuttings should be placed into a moist growing medium and held where humidity will remain constant. Under ideal conditions, cuttings will begin to take root in as little as a few weeks.

Propagating Hibiscus by Layering

Some hibiscus species can be propagated by layering. Layering involves simply bending stems to the ground and covering a small section of the stem with soil.

More difficult types may benefit from the process of air layering. This method encourages root development while the living matter is still attached to the parent plant. This technique is known for its dependability, helping to reduce stress during root development. Plants should be monitored carefully through this undertaking, as new roots may be sensitive to heat and/or intense sunlight.

Propagating Hibiscus from Seed

Hibiscus propagation from seeds is extremely common. Several species are known for their rapid germination and growth when planted from seed. Hibiscus seeds can be started indoors, in early spring, or sown directly into the garden after all chances of frost have passed. For the best results, consistent warmth and moisture are needed, with seeds beginning to grow approximately 1-2 weeks after planting.

Potting Your Hibiscus

The best potting for hibiscus plants varies by species and by propagation method. While plants grown from seed often require longer periods of establishment before being moved into their own containers, those from cuttings are likely to be potted up more quickly.

Each container should be approximately twice the width of the plant’s root ball, and be filled with a well-draining potting mix, like this Espoma Organic Potting Soil Mix from Amazon. Though larger specimens may also be potted into containers, experienced growers often opt to move plants directly into the garden, provided that outdoor conditions are ideal.

Frequently Asked Questions

Tropical hibiscus fertilizing is important to keeping them healthy and blooming beautifully, but tropical hibiscus plant owners may wonder what kind of hibiscus fertilizer they should be using and when they should be fertilizing hibiscus. Let's look at what's necessary to be fertilizing hibiscus trees properly.

What Hibiscus Fertilizer to Use

The best hibiscus tree fertilizers can be either slow release or water soluble. With either, you will want to fertilize your hibiscus with a balanced fertilizer. This will be a fertilizer that has all the same numbers. So, for example, a 20-20-20 or 10-10-10 fertilizer would be balanced fertilizer. If you will be using a water soluble fertilizer, use it at half strength to avoid over fertilizing the hibiscus tree. 

Over fertilizing hibiscus plants result in burning the roots or providing too much fertilizer, which will cause in fewer or no blooms or even yellow, dropping leaves.

When to Fertilize Hibiscus

Hibiscus do best when given hibiscus fertilizer frequently but lightly. Doing this helps to make sure that the hibiscus tree will grow well and bloom frequently without over fertilizing. If you are using a slow release fertilizer, you will want to fertilize 4 times a year. These times are:

• Early spring
• After the hibiscus tree finishes its first round of blooming
• Mid summer
• Early winter

If you are using water soluble fertilizer, you can fertilizer with a weak solution once every 2 weeks in spring and summer and once every four weeks in fall and winter.

Tips for Fertilizing Hibiscus

Hibiscus fertilizing is pretty basic, but there are a few tips that can help make it easier. Whether your hibiscus grows in the ground or in a pot, make sure that you put fertilizer out to the edges of the hibiscus tree's canopy. 

Many people make the mistake of fertilizing just at the base of the trunk and the food does not have a chance to reach the full root system, which extends to the edge of the canopy. If you find that you have over fertilized your hibiscus and it is blooming less, or not at all, add phosphorus to the soil to help bring the hibiscus blooms back.

Pruning hibiscus can feel like a daunting task, but it’s necessary to keep your plants healthy and flowering. While there are many different types of hibiscus, these expert tips for pruning cover the most popular types, including tropical hibiscus.

Tropical hibiscus plants are a staple in many summer gardens. Proper pruning will ensure their large, fiery blooms keep coming all season. Pruning can be as simple as pinching back the growing tips for a fuller bush or as drastic as rejuvenation pruning to revive an old shrub.

While pruning is vital to hibiscus care, doing it incorrectly can cause more harm than good. You need to know how to prune hibiscus correctly to get the benefits. This is why we’ve collected all the information you need in this easy guide. We’ll cover everything from timing to techniques to keep your hibiscus looking its best.

Benefits of Pruning Hibiscus

Hibiscus is known mostly for its large, colorful blooms. Careful pruning ensures that your plant will continue to produce a maximum number of gorgeous flowers season after season. You may have noticed that tropical hibiscus produces one bloom at the end of each branch. Some basic pruning can increase the number of branches, thereby increasing the number of blooms. It will also stimulate flowering on the shrub and improve its shape.

But trimming hibiscus isn’t just about the flowers. Regular pruning keeps a hibiscus shrub healthy overall. It creates airflow to reduce the risk of disease and to allow sunlight to get to the interior leaves. It also allows you to remove diseased or damaged growth. Removing dead wood when you notice it will ensure a healthier plant.

Trimming also helps you grow a more attractive shrub. It promotes branching, creating a fuller shape and reducing leggy, scraggly growth. If you have a hibiscus that has become overgrown, thoughtful pruning will rejuvenate it. You can even use pruning to create a small tree out of your hibiscus shrub, which I’ll show you how to do later.

When to Prune Hibiscus

The timing for hibiscus trimming depends on a few factors. If you grow hibiscus in a container that you’re bringing indoors for winter, prune it before you relocate it. This will help you manage its size and keep it healthy inside.

If you plan on overwintering your hibiscus plants in a cool, dark location, such as a basement, you can wait until spring to prune. If you grow hibiscus indoors all year, trim plants in late winter.

For outdoor hibiscus plants, timing depends on your climate. If you live in a region with cold winters, it’s best to prune in spring after the danger of frost has passed. The shrub will be more vulnerable to cold damage if you create cuts and wounds in cold weather.

If you live in a warmer climate, you can prune your hibiscus in the fall. But in either situation, the best timing for a complete overhaul is in the spring after the threat of frost has passed. This will prepare them for a growth spurt in spring.

Any hard pruning, such as rejuvenation pruning, should always be performed in the spring as well. You can also remove dead or damaged stems at any time of the year, as soon as you notice them.

How to Prune Hibiscus

Start your pruning task with a sharp, clean pair of shears, like these bestselling pruners from Fiskars. As a general rule, never trim off more than one-third of the plant. You can trim less than that’s all that is needed, but avoid doing more unless your plant has been neglected for years and needs a major refresh.

Make cuts at an angle of about 45 degrees and about 0.25 inch (0.5 cm) above a leaf node. If your shrub is already mostly upright, make cuts above leaf nodes that face outwards. If the shrub has horizontal growth that you want to train upwards, cut above inward-facing leaf nodes. You can direct a new branch to grow to the left or right by cutting above a node on the left side of a branch or on the right side, respectively.

Avoid making too many inward-facing cuts. This directs growth toward the center of the plant, which can help you get an upright structure, but which can also cause too much dense growth in the center. This can reduce airflow and promote common hibiscus diseases.

When choosing stems to trim, look for the longest ones. Trim them at a node that is about one-third of the way down the stem. Choose strategically to create a shape that will be even and neat. For example, if you have more growth on one side of the shrub, making it appear lopsided, make more cuts on that side.

Different Ways to Prune Hibiscus

Depending on your plant's needs and your own desired look, there are a few different techniques for pruning hibiscus:

• Some light pruning will encourage more flowers to grow on your hibiscus. To do this, pinch off growing tips in the spring and even into summer. Pinch off about 0.25 to 1 inch (0.5 to 2.5 cm) of growth. This is an especially useful type of pruning for young plants, as it will train them to grow fuller and in an even shape.
• For a full prune, cut each stem back by about a third to two or three nodes. This will promote branching, blooming, and a pleasing shape. However, blooming will be delayed till the new growth forms.
• For selective pruning, only remove one-third or less of the stems from the base. This will allow some stems to continue blooming, while the rest are developing.
• If you have an old, neglected hibiscus shrub, you can cut more severely. Trim all of the stems down to about 1 foot (30 cm) off the ground to encourage new, healthier growth. Be sure the remaining stems have some leaves on them.

Trimming Hibiscus Into a Tree

Hibiscus is a shrub, but with the right pruning, you can prune your shrub into a small tree. Look for one large, strong stem to use as the “trunk” of the tree. It should be at least 2 feet (0.6 m) tall. Trim it off by about 2 inches (5 cm) and then trim back all the lower branches.

Trim back all the upper stems on your primary trunk to create a ball shape on the top. This will be the top of your tree. Make sure these stems still have two or three nodes after trimming and that they are about 6 inches (30 cm) long. Maintain the shape by trimming off lower branches as they form.

Pruning hibiscus is a necessary garden chore, but you don’t have to do it every year. Prune lightly for more flowers and to remove any damaged or dead branches yearly, and do a more vigorous pruning every few years for the best results.

Frequently Asked Questions

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While hibiscus flowers often grace us with beautiful blooms, these highly sensitive and temperamental plants sometimes fail to flourish. Either there are hibiscus blossoms falling off the plant or the hibiscus buds won't bloom. However, becoming familiar with the most common causes of hibiscus flower problems can make it easier to correct the issue.

Dropping of Blooms on Hibiscus Tree

One of the most common causes of hibiscus blossoms falling off plants is insect pests, particularly thrips. These tiny insects feed on hibiscus flower buds, causing them to fall off prior to blooming. Using an organic insecticide once a week as directed should help take care of the problem. Gall midge is another common pest affecting hibiscus flowers. This insect lays its eggs inside the buds, turning them yellow and eventually causing them to drop. These, too, must be controlled with an appropriate insecticide targeted at these pests. To find out if gall midge is to blame when hibiscus buds won't bloom, examine the fallen buds for signs of midge larvae by cutting or pulling them apart. It will also help to pick off any yellow buds and dispose of them promptly. Other insect pests that may cause the dropping of blooms on hibiscus trees include:

• spider mites
• mealybugs
• aphids
• whiteflies
• hibiscus beetle

In addition to insecticidal sprays, placing yellow sticky traps, which they find attractive, near the plant may help catch and eliminate them.

Other Factors Leading to Hibiscus Blossoms Falling Off Plant

Hibiscus flower and bud drop can also be the result of a number of other factors such as nutritional deficiencies and environmental conditions. Bud drop on hibiscus flowers is oftentimes associated with an underlying issue that can be easily corrected. For instance, insufficient watering, excessive changes in temperature, and over-fertilizing can all trigger the dropping of blooms on hibiscus trees. Hibiscus flowers require lots of light, high humidity, and moist soil. They also need regular feeding with fertilizer as directed. The best way to keep hibiscus flowers healthy is to accommodate their needs and check the plants often for signs of problems.

Are Your Hibiscus Leaves Turning Yellow? Causes & Easy Fixes

We occasionally hear from gardeners whose hibiscus leaves are turning yellow. Growing hibiscus is a wonderful way to add a tropical feel and flair to almost any landscape, patio or indoor space. The plants can be bought from Home Depot and Walmart.

While hardy hibiscus varieties thrive in most gardens, frost-tender types can also be grown indoors in containers. It is easy to understand why the sudden yellowing of an otherwise healthy plant is a cause for concern. Below, we will explore some of the most common reasons that hibiscus leaves begin to change in appearance.

Why Are My Hibiscus Leaves Turning Yellow?

Several factors may be at play if your hibiscus leaves are turning yellow. In most instances, yellowing of a plant’s leaves occurs when cultural conditions are inadequate or the plant’s needs for growth have not been met. Sudden or rapid changes in the appearance of hibiscus foliage may also be caused by stress or damage that’s been done to the physical plant or its root system.

Common Causes for Yellow Leaves on Hibiscus

Yellowing of hibiscus leaves occurs most frequently when conditions are less than ideal, including inadequate levels of light and problems with soil moisture. Soils that are excessively dry or remain waterlogged for prolonged periods are most notable. Hibiscus appreciates soils that are rich in nutrients, so routine fertilization is important to keep the plants looking their best. Both indoor and outdoor hibiscus should be kept warm and protected from sudden or rapid drops in temperature.

Leaves yellowing or prematurely dropping from a hibiscus plant may also be caused by disease, pressure from insects, or damage done directly to the plant. Various foliar diseases will first manifest as chlorosis.

Take careful note of other potential symptoms to quickly diagnose and treat potential problems. Sap-sucking insects, like aphids or spider mites, may also cause yellowing of hibiscus leaves. These pests are generally not a serious concern to the plant’s health, except in severe cases.

Physical damage to hibiscus plants may result from transplanting, repotting, or extreme weather events.

How to Fix Yellow Leaves on Hibiscus

Identifying the problem will help you learn how to treat it. In most instances, yellowing caused by stress will remedy itself. This is often true of plants that have recently been moved to a new growing location or are in the process of adapting to a new space. Once proper conditions have been met, you can expect your hibiscus to begin to produce lush, healthy foliage again. Those affected by disease or insects require further treatment.

How to Prevent Hibiscus Leaves Turning Yellow

With a proactive approach, most hibiscus yellowing can be prevented. This includes providing consistent care and the use of proper garden maintenance techniques.

Weekly irrigation, pruning with a set of hand pruners like the Felco F6 from Amazon, and feeding are all essential to keeping hibiscus plants happy and healthy. Continue monitoring your plants’ foliage throughout the growing season to detect problems early before they have the opportunity to progress.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Should I Cut Off the Yellow Leaves on My Hibiscus?

Though most yellow leaves will drop from the plant on their own, the affected foliage should be removed. This will help to maintain the plant’s overall appearance, and may even be vital to controlling the spread of insects or disease. Once snipped, all plant matter and debris should be removed from the garden disposed of properly.

What Does an Overwatered Hibiscus Look Like?

Yellowing leaves are among the most common signs that a hibiscus has been overwatered. These plants may also begin to wilt. This is most frequently the result of soils with poor drainage or that remain waterlogged. Though established plants are usually able to recover from overwatering, excessive levels of soil moisture may lead to root rot and the loss of hibiscus plants.

We love hibiscus plants for their large, beautiful flowers and their tolerance to heat. While each bloom seldom lasts longer than a day, their continued production through the summer season makes them an invaluable addition to the home landscape. There are hundreds of hibiscus species available to gardeners, and the showy tropical types remain among the most popular.

While this perennial behaves dependably when it’s grown in frost-free regions, hibiscus plants growing outside their climate range need special care to ensure that they’ll be able to return season after season. If you live in a region that gets more than a few days a year below freezing, 32 degrees F (0 C), you should store your hibiscus indoors for the winter. In this article we’ll explore hibiscus winter care in greater detail.

Can Hibiscus Survive Winter Outdoors?

A tropical species, hibiscus plants are hardy to USDA growing zones 10-12 where they have very little difficulty surviving winter. Naturally, plants can still be lost in these zones, particularly if they are growing in excessively wet or poor draining soil. Outside of the warm zones, special care is required to keep them safe from cold conditions. Overwintering tropical hibiscus as an indoor plant is often the best solution.

How to Overwinter Hibiscus

Bring it Indoors

Hibiscus plants are not picky when it comes to indoor storage. Keep in mind, when you take an outdoor hibiscus into a sheltered room its flowers will fade and, unless you have an atrium or greenhouse, your hibiscus will most likely start to look less than stellar before spring returns. It's best to find a place that will be out of the way. Just make sure your hibiscus plant’s new spot stays warmer than 50 degrees F (10 C), gets some light, and is somewhere you'll remember to water it.

When all the plant’s leaves have fallen off and its branches are still pliable, your hibiscus plant has gone into full dormancy. At this time, you may want to place it in a cool dark place like a basement, and allow it to stay dormant.

Pruning

Experienced hibiscus growers suggest pruning the plant to begin preparing it for winter. When to trim the plant for winter is generally dictated by the weather. Hibiscus pruning needs to be done before the frost arrives to maintain a more compact size and shape. Though the plant’s growth will slow drastically throughout winter, additional pruning may also be required while it’s indoors.

Choose a Location

Indoor conditions are a key element of hibiscus care in winter. Once inside, plants should be placed in a location where temperatures do not dip below 60 F (15 C) Potted hibiscus should also be kept from cold drafts or direct exposure to heating vents. This helps to maintain proper humidity levels and prevent damage to the plant. Potted hibiscus should be situated near a bright, sunny window, where it can receive ample indirect light.

Watering

Though these tropical plants prefer soils that are consistently moist, winter hibiscus care requires some attention when it comes to watering. Throughout the winter, watering should be reduced to prevent the development of root rot and/or fungal disease. However, plants should never be allowed to dry completely between waterings. Frequent misting may also help maintain proper humidity levels while indoors.

Fertilizing

As with water, fertilizer should be reduced throughout winter. While it’s not necessary, you can feed indoor plants through the coldest months of the year. Feeding hibiscus is best done during periods of more active growth, throughout early spring and summer. Experienced gardeners suggest using a quality, slow-release fertilizer to promote bloom, root development, and for overall plant health.

How to Revive Hibiscus Next Year

With the arrival of spring, overwintering hibiscus plants appreciate a hardening off period before being moved outdoors. A gradual introduction to the increased light and other outdoor environmental factors helps reduce stress for the plants. Because they are tropical, hibiscus plants should not be moved outdoors until all chances of frost have passed, and when both day and nighttime temperatures remain consistently warm.

Hibiscus is very popular a genus of flowering plants. There are hundreds of hibiscus species that can be trees or shrubs and annuals or perennials, most of which are tropical or subtropical. There are 35 North American native hibiscus species also called rose mallows.

The type of hibiscus used most commonly in landscaping and found in garden centers is Hibiscus rosa-sinensis. This native Chinese species grows in tropical conditions but can be grown indoors in containers or as an annual outdoors.

The hibiscus flower is large, striking, and trumpet-shaped and comes in a range of bright colors. Each flower only lasts for one day, but the plant has a long flowering season. The flowers of some types of hibiscus are truly enormous, measuring up to a foot (30 cm) in diameter.

Quick Facts about Hibiscus

• Botanical name: Hibiscus spp.
• Height: 4 to 8 feet (1.2 to 3.0 m)
• Spread: 4 to 6 feet (1.2 to 1.8 m)
• Sun exposure: Full sun
• Soil requirements: Acidic, moist, rich
• Hardiness zones: 9 to 11
• When to plant: Spring

Growing Hibiscus in Containers

You can easily grow a hibiscus plant in a container to utilize limited outdoor space, to grow as a houseplant, or to have the flexibility to move it around the garden. Most hibiscus are quite large, so be sure you get a big container. It should have good drainage and be placed in a sunny window, especially if you want to see those lovely blooms.

This one gallon container pot from Amazon has plenty of drainage and space for the hibiscus seedling to bed down some roots.

Although warm, humid conditions are ideal for tropical hibiscus, you may want to provide outdoor plants with a little afternoon shade when it’s overly hot. Again, containers make this easy to do.

Hibiscus plants prefer a cozy fit when growing in a container. This means that they should be slightly root bound in the pot. When you do decide to repot, give the hibiscus only a little bit more room. Always make sure your soil has excellent drainage.

Temperatures for Growing Hibiscus

Tropical hibiscus varieties are extremely cold sensitive and will not tolerate winter in many locations. Daytime temperatures should be 65 to 75 F (18-24 C) and no cooler than 55 F (13 C).

If you live in a non-tropical zone and don't want to bring your hibiscus indoors, opt for a hardy variety. Hardy hibiscus species can grow in USDA zones 5 through 9 and survive year-round temperatures in these regions. Hibiscus syriacus, also known as Rose of Sharon, is a good choice. It grows more as a shrub than a tree compared to other species.

Watering Hibiscus

Moist soil is important for a hibiscus tree or shrub. On the other hand, hibiscus will not tolerate soggy soil or standing water. Make sure it grows in a spot or container with excellent drainage, and keep the soil moist at all times.

When hibiscus are in their blooming stage, they require large amounts of water. Your hibiscus will need daily watering in warm weather. But once the weather cools, your hibiscus needs far less water, and too much water can kill it. In the winter, water your hibiscus only when the soil is dry to the touch.

Fertilizing Hibiscus

A hibiscus plant needs lots of nutrients in order to bloom well.

Start with high-quality, fertile, well-draining soil with plenty of organic material. Hibiscus plants are heavy feeders and go through a lot of nutrients. Even with good soil they benefit from regular applications of fertilizer. In the summer, use a high potassium fertilizer. You can either use a diluted liquid fertilizer once a week, a slow release fertilizer once a month, or you can add a high potassium compost to the soil. In the winter, you don’t need to fertilize at all.

For an indoor, potted hibiscus, use half strength applications about every month, and less in the winter.

How to Keep Hibiscus Blooming

Hibiscus needs rich soil and nutrients, bright sunlight, and warm temperatures to flower. If you provide these conditions, it will bloom prolifically. You can also try a bloom booster fertilizer product, but this isn’t typically necessary.

Prune hibiscus plants regularly to maintain shape and size, and to encourage healthy growth that will produce more flowers. You can use a good set of pruners, like the Felco F6 Bypass Pruners on Amazon, to do this.

Is Hibiscus a Perennial or Annual?

Whether a hibiscus is a perennial or annual depends on the type and where it is grown. You can grow tropical species outdoors in frost free zones as perennials, and in colder climates as annuals. Hardy hibiscus can be grown as a perennial even in cold climates.

Common Problems with Hibiscus

There are several insect pests that feed on hibiscus plants. Among the most common are aphids, Japanese beetles, thrips, mealybugs, whiteflies, and scale. Common diseases include Armillaria root rot, Botrytis blight, leaf spots, and Hibiscus chlorotic ringspot virus.

Are Hibiscus Poisonous to Dogs?

Most hibiscus are not toxic for dogs, so you don’t have to worry if they take a nibble of your plants. However rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) is a toxic species that causes gastrointestinal distress, so take care if you grow hardy hibiscus. Signs of poisoning include nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The same goes for cats. If you are not sure what type of hibiscus you have, assume it could harm your furry friends.

Hibiscus flowers are striking and attractive. They lend a tropical feel to patios, gardens, and indoor spaces. To grow hibiscus, know whether you have a hardy or tropical species and provide the idea conditions for years of blooms.