May is the month hostas really start moving. A few weeks back there was nothing, then emerging shoots, and then leaves that seem to open almost faster than you can track them. That speed is part of what makes timing matter here – some tasks only work before the leaves are fully out, and that window closes rather quickly.

Getting on top of hosta care in May pays off. The plant is actively pushing into new growth, so fertilizer actually gets taken up, divisions root in fast, and anything that goes wrong now has time to compound before you notice it, so it’s better to stay ahead of it.

The tasks below are the ones that make sense to tackle this month – roughly in order, though the first two especially have a timing component that actually matters.

1. Divide Overcrowded Clumps

Early May is about as good a window as there is for dividing hostas. The shoots are visible enough that you can see what you’re working with, but the leaves haven’t opened all the way yet – less stress on the divisions, less collateral damage to whatever’s nearby while you’re digging around. A sharp spade does the job well enough; drive it straight down through the clump, lift sections out. Each piece needs at least a couple of decent eyes on it to come back properly.

Get divisions back in the ground quickly – they don’t benefit from sitting around. Water them in well after planting. Old clumps that have been crowded for a while often push up above grade a bit, so planting the division at soil level or just slightly deeper than it was sitting tends to give it a steadier start. A sharp garden spade from Amazon makes cleaner cuts through dense root masses, which is definitely an important thing to consider.

2. Fertilize While Growth Is Active

The best time for fertilizing hostas is now, during active active spring growth. A balanced slow-release fertilizer worked lightly into the soil around the base of each clump in early May tends to push noticeably stronger growth than skipping it. Keep it away from direct contact with the emerging shoots, though; fertilizer burn on new growth is a real thing and it’s ugly.

One application is usually enough for the whole season if it’s a slow-release formula. Liquid fertilizers work faster but need repeating, which is either fine or annoying depending on how you approach the garden. Either way, don’t push nitrogen too hard late in the season – soft lush growth going into summer tends to attract more pest pressure than firmer foliage does.

3. Get Ahead of Slug Damage

Slug damage on hostas shows up as ragged holes – sometimes scattered through the leaf, sometimes along the edges – and it’s one of those things that’s genuinely easier to prevent than manage after the fact. May is when slug populations are building, and the new emerging hosta leaves are about as attractive a target as slugs ever get. Waiting until hosta pest damage is visible means waiting until it’s already too late for those leaves.

Bait applied around the base of plants before the leaves fully open is the most effective timing. Slug and snail bait pellets from Amazon are easy to keep on hand before the season gets going rather than scrambling for them mid-damage. Removing hiding spots – boards, thick mulch right against the crown, debris – takes away some of the shelter they rely on during the day and cuts down the population pressure somewhat.

4. Mulch Around the Base

Getting mulch around hostas before summer heat kicks in is good timing. It holds moisture, cuts down on weeds competing through the season, and keeps the soil from swinging temperature as much – all things that matter more later than they do now. Two to three inches (5-8cm) is enough. Go much deeper and moisture can sit against the crown too long, which is a problem in heavier soils especially.

Keep the mulch pulled back an inch or two from the actual crown of the plant. It’s a small thing, but piling mulch directly against the base is one of the more common ways hostas develop crown rot over time. Shredded bark or wood chip mulch works fine; fine-textured mulch can mat and shed water rather than absorbing it, which defeats the point.

5. Establish a Watering Routine

May can be a deceptive time – there’s often enough rain early on that watering seems unnecessary, but hostas putting on this much growth fast are actually pulling a fair amount of moisture. The plants in deeper shade under trees are competing with root systems that drink a lot. Checking the soil a few inches down rather than going by surface appearance is a more reliable read on whether they actually need water.

Slow, deep watering is considerably better than frequent light watering – it pushes roots down rather than keeping them near the surface where they’re more vulnerable to heat and dry spells later. A soaker hose from Amazon run along a bed is one of the lower-effort ways to water a hosta deeply and consistently without standing there with a hose.

6. Check for Virus Symptoms

Hosta virus X doesn’t get talked about enough, and May – when the leaves are fully open and patterns are readable – is when symptoms tend to become obvious. Look for coloring that doesn’t match the plant’s normal variegation: dark blotchy patches, streaking that looks wrong, leaf texture that’s slightly puckered or off. The complication is that some variegated hostas just look wild to begin with, so you need some familiarity with a particular plant to know when something’s actually wrong with it.

There’s no fix for hosta virus X once a plant has it. Infected plants should come out and go in the trash – not the compost pile – and any tools used on them should be cleaned before touching healthy plants. This hosta disease spreads through sap contact, so dividing an infected clump and moving divisions around is one of the faster ways to spread it through a garden. Catching it in May before any dividing happens is the best case scenario.

Prized for their fabulous foliage and ability to thrive in even the shadiest of spaces, it’s little wonder that hostas are so popular – but there is one thing you need to do to them in the fall if you want them to come back lusher than ever next year.

Yes, these leafy lovelies have rapidly become some of the most fashionable plants, stealing the spotlight in ornamental show gardens across the world.

Part of the appeal, of course, is the fact that they've been hailed as some of the very best shade plants that thrive on neglect; indeed, there are over 2000 hosta varieties to choose from, but each is as self-sufficient as the last. Within reason, that is...

Get Out Your Pruners

Despite being so laidback they're basically horizontal, many gardening experts are now urging people to jump in and show their hostas a little more love in the colder 'ber months. Especially if they want to protect them from pests, diseases, and crown rot-inducing fungal attacks.

Thankfully, it's not a long sprawling list of jobs; it is, essentially, just the one thing you should do to your hostas in the fall. It might sound counterintuitive to anyone hoping for a big spring comeback, but the answer is simple: cut them back to around two centimeters above ground level.

Then, mulch with compost to help a) protect the plant from winter frosts, and b) put nutrients back into the ground for the year ahead. Something like Amazon’s Back to the Roots Organic Premium Compost is ideal.

Get the Timing Right

Of course, it’s not quite so simple as snipping your hostas back whenever you want; timing is everything, and it will differ depending on which of the USDA plant hardiness zones you’re based in as it’s based on the first frost date of the season.

Here’s the twist: the aim is to grab your snippers after your hosta leaves have been damaged by the first hard frost, not before. Never before.

Why? Well, because all of the lovely carbohydrates formed in your hosta’s iconic leaves via photosynthesis need time to travel back down the stalk and into the crown of the plant so that they can fuel next season’s growth. If you snip them before they’ve browned, you’ll stop that from happening.

Why Do It?

It’s worth noting that cutting your hostas back is entirely optional; some people do it to clear space in their borders for other seasonal plants, or because they hate the look of those tattered brown leaves. Some do it to deter slugs and snails. Others, however, might like that wintry aesthetic.

That being said, if your hosta has a common problem like powdery mildew or anthracnose, then you have no choice: you absolutely must do this one thing to your hostas to reduce the disease returning and affecting next year’s plants.

Just take care, in this instance, to treat your cuttings as garden waste rather than popping them in the compost pile and giving them those diseases a chance to overwinter.

Your Shopping List

It's always a good idea to make sure that you have everything you need to hand before you get started. To that end, then, be sure to grab the following if you decide to do this one to your hostas in the fall...

• A sharp pair of pruners, like the Fiskars ⅝” Bypass Pruner from Amazon
• A pair of puncture-resistant gardening gloves from Amazon
• A lawn garden bag from Amazon for leaves and compostable scraps
• Amazon’s Back to the Roots Organic Premium Compost for mulching purposes

Happy snipping!

Finding low light plants for the garden can be a challenge, and that’s where colored hostas save the day. There are over 2,000 registered cultivars of hosta plants. Hosta colors include hues of blues, greens, cream, and yellows. And often these colorful hosta plants sport several colors on the broad leaves. Add to the foliage tones and hostas also offer brightly toned flowers in spring. Growing hosta plants just requires some shade during the day, well draining soil, and bulbs.

Different Colored Hostas

Colored hostas make standout specimens in the garden. These ornamental, herbaceous perennial plants are native to Asia and relatives of asparagus. There are 5 major leaf color classifications. These are green, gold, blue, medio- variegated, and marginal variegated. Medio-variegated varieties of hosta have dark margins with a light center, while marginal variegated colorful hostas have light margins with a dark center.

There are also new cultivars that have a leaf color different from the petiole. In these, petioles in hues of purple and red support the huge leaves. Hostas prefer full to partial shade, although there are some sun tolerant hostas that can be grown in full sun. They also need a few months of exposure to temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4.4 C).

Red Hostas

So far science hasn’t developed red leaves in hosta plants, but Raspberry Sundae, Beet Salad, and Purple have brightly hued petioles in some seem to bleed out into the center of the leaf.

Some of the new cultivars have created differently hued flower scapes.

In the case of Cherry Berry, the leaves are white with dashes of green but they also boast red flower stems and deeply purple flowers. Red Hot Poker has red flower stems. Red October produces burgundy petioles or leaf stems.

Yellow Hostas

Lipstick Blonde is quite amazing with lemon yellow leaves and bright red petioles.

More Colorful Hosta Plants

Still not satisfied? Here's a quick list of 18 more stunning hosta varieties.

1. Blazing Saddles: medium plant with yellow marginal variegation and creamy white.
2. Blue Cadet: a small hosta with heart shaped blue leaves and tall flowering stems.
3. Blue Mouse Ears: a very diminutive plant with deeply blue, small, slightly curved leaves.
4. Plantain Lily: probably the most commonly known and one of the varieties with the most sun tolerance.
5. Gold Edger: chartreuse leaves compliment lavender flowers.
6. Lemontini: small plant with butter yellow pointed leaves.
7. Blue Silver: quite narrow, pointed greenish gray leaves.
8. Autumn Frost: the leaves have grayish blue centers bordered irregularly by gold.
9. Albomarginata: large oval green leaves with a white border.
10. Hyacinthina: a color changing plant with blue leaves most of the year that turn olive green in summer.
11. Empress Wu: one of the largest of the group with huge green oval leaves and flowers that present up to 4 feet ( 1.2 m.) in height.
12. Gold Standard: another color changer who emerges with green leaves that turn to gold with blue-green borders.
13. Golden Tiara: a small plant with green heart shaped leaves bordered by gold.
14. Francee: pointed dark green leaves with a defining white edge.
15. Elegans: one of the wavy leaf varieties in blue.
16. Red Dragon: one of the newer cultivars with red petioles and light green leaves.
17. Twist of Lime: a tiny plant with yellow leaves bordered neatly by green.
18. Wrinkle in Time: the dark green leaves have light yellow margins in spring which turn to white in summer.

Frequently Asked Questions

Hostas are extremely popular perennials in North America. Although not native here, they don’t become invasive in most circumstances. They tolerate shade, even deep shade for some varieties, are easy to grow and maintain, and come in an astounding variety of sizes and colors.

From tiny groundcover plants to sprawling plants with big leaves, you can find a type of hosta plant for any space. Which hostas are the biggest? Check out these impressive giants of the hosta world if you’re looking to fill large areas of the garden.

Choosing the Largest Hosta Plants to Grow

Grow the biggest hosta plants in areas where they can take up space. The biggest varieties can be focal points in a bed or serve as backdrops for lower-growing plants. Use them to fill in spaces under trees or shrubs that are too shady for other plants.

What Are the Biggest Hostas?

As with any variety, know the conditions needed for optimal growth before selecting any one type. Regardless of size, growing hosta plants requires rich, moist soil that drains well and partial or deep shade. Darker-colored hostas need more shade, while lighter, more yellow hostas look best with some morning sun. Keep in mind that these types of larger hostas will grow best and biggest when watered deeply and regularly.

1. Empress Wu

‘Empress Wu’ is one of, if not the largest of all hosta varieties. It easily grows taller than four feet (1.2 m) and wider than four to five feet (1.2 to 1.5 m). The leaves are big, too, measuring up to two feet (61 cm). ‘Empress Wu’ has dark green leaves, reddish-violet flowers, and grows best in deep or dappled shade.

2. Blue Angel

This variety is similar to ‘Empress Wu’ but a little shorter at two to three feet tall (0.6 to 0.9 m), but just as wide. Its leaves are also dark but have more of a blue tint. Provide ‘Blue Angel’ with a shady spot to enjoy its best color. The summer flowers on this variety are white.

3. Victory

‘Victory’ was introduced as a new giant hosta variety in 2003. The leaves are smooth and medium green with yellow margins that fade to a cream color as the plant ages. As it emerges in spring, it grows with an upright shape, eventually unfolding into a mound that can be up to six feet (1.8 m) wide. As a bonus, this hosta is more slug-resistant than some other varieties.

4. Sum and Substance

‘Sum and Substance’ is a giant variety with chartreuse leaves that become more yellow over the course of the summer. As with most lighter-colored hostas, it looks best with two or three hours of direct morning sun. Expect this variety to eventually grow two to three feet (0.6 to 0.9 m) tall and five to six feet (1.5 to 1.8 m) wide. With thick, substantial leaves, ‘Sum and Substance’ resists slugs well.

5. Dream Weaver

For a large hosta with variegated foliage, choose ‘Dream Weaver.’ Although not as large as some of the truly giant varieties, it will grow about 30 inches (0.8 m) tall and five feet (1.5 m) wide. The large leaves have a thick, blue-green margin with a yellow center. The leaves are rounder than those of many other varieties.

6. Riverboat Queen

‘Riverboat Queen’ grows in an attractive, upright mound with round, deeply rippled, and corrugated leaves that are bluish-green. The leaves emerge with a white, waxy coating in spring but become shinier as the season progresses. Expect ‘Kim’ to reach about 3.5 feet (1.1 m) tall and five feet (1.5 m) wide. Deep shade is best for this blue variety of hosta.

Frequently Asked Questions

While they do pretty up the garden, are hostas edible? The hosta plant is a shade to partial shade foliage plant with little fairy-like purple to white flowers. Hostas grow from rhizomatous roots and begin to produce tightly furled leaves in early spring. Eating hostas isn’t a well-known culinary experience but it is supposedly a delight. Edible hostas span all the varieties, but the Montanas are said to be the tastiest.

Can You Eat Hostas?

I used to have a huge hosta garden which even included a prized Empress Wu. I now live where it is too hot and dry to grow these glorious forage plants, but I wish I had known then what I know now.

Many popular web searches ask, “Are hostas poisonous?” Usually, the question refers to protecting curious pets. The glycoside saponins do make the leaves toxic to certain animals, like cats and dogs. Though many gardeners can attest that deer and rabbits love the taste of their hostas.

But can you eat hostas? The answer is a resounding “yes.” In Japan, the plant has been harvested for centuries and is called “sansai,” or mountain vegetable. Hostas are said to be similar to asparagus, so they have to be good!

How to Harvest Hostas to Eat

It’s important to source hosta leaves that have not been exposed to chemicals like herbicides or pesticides. The young leaves called “hoston” are the best part. These are the early shoots that curl up from the soil in spring. The older leaves are edible but may be tough and bitter.

Harvest the plants in the morning for the best taste. Using a sharp knife, take the leaves at the soil level. You can also simply pinch off leaves. The smaller leaves on the outside are more bitter than the inner leaves. You can also harvest hosta flowers. These are purported to have a mild pepper flavor. Always wash any foraged foods thoroughly before using them.

How to Prepare Hostas

Treat the leaves like lettuce or spinach when eating hostas. After washing them and drying them you can use them in a variety of ways. They may be kept whole or the individual leaves divided away from the cluster. Young hoston leaves may be chopped into a salad. Thicker hoston may be pan-seared or gently braised. Stir fry the smaller ones and add sesame oil and soy sauce. Whole, larger hostas can be boiled.

The leaves have a slightly bitter flavor that pairs well with sweet, smoky flavors. The addition of garlic or other allium masks some of the bitterness. Hosta flowers are best fresh, tossed in a salad or used as an edible garnish.

Storing Hosta Hostons

The leaves can be stored for 2 days in the vegetable crisper drawer. Wash them and let them air dry. Then layer them with paper towels in a plastic tub or baggie. They are best fresh and will get wilted if they are allowed to sit in the refrigerator for more than a couple days. If you wish to use them like frozen spinach, blanch the chopped leaves, let them dry, and freeze them.

Frequently Asked Questions

One of the most impactful shade plants is the Hosta. Growing Hostas in Washington is a marvelous partnership. Western Washington, with its coastal climate, makes a perfect location for these shade lovers, but even in the hotter eastern side, you can enjoy the gorgeous foliage. You just have to make sure Hostas in the northwest are in a shady to semi-shady location in freely draining soil. 

The Plantain Lily, or Hosta, is one of those foliage plants that brightens dark corners and enlivens the landscape with its flower displays. Pacific Northwest Hostas are game changers for gardeners with heavy shade. They are reliable perennials that grow well in Washington; Oregon Hostas are scene stealers, as well. 

Hostas, Pacific Northwest Winners

If you are looking for a no-nonsense shade loving plant, consider Hostas in the northwest. The plants spring from tubers that are reliably hardy in the northwest part of the United States. Their most outstanding feature is the large leaves that can sport variegation in hues of green, bluish green, gold, and white. Once they have grown new leaves after a winter rest, you can also expect lily-like purple flowers, soaring above the huge foliage. The plants are very tolerant, preferring shade to partial shade, but they can also thrive in sun where some protection from the hottest rays is available. Pacific Northwest Hostas do need consistent moisture for optimal health. However, with little intervention, in the right soil and location, these beauties will brighten your landscape for years. 

Hosta Information

Oregon Hostas, as well as Hostas in Washington are outstanding shade plants. There are literally thousands of varieties from which to choose. Some can get many feet in height (.91 m), with a few varieties actually double in size. 

There are also diminutive varieties that make great fillers in a low light area. They pair well with similar care plants such as Astilbe, Epimedium, ferns, and other shade lovers. Hostas will even perform nicely in containers. Just remember that they like to be kept moist, although not soggy. If you want a giant specimen, consider Empress Wu, a 4 foot (1.22 m) tall glory. Sweet little Blue Mouse Ears is a bright example of the smaller varieties. And in between there are hundreds from which to choose. 

Tips on Growing Hosta

• Hostas are relatively easy to grow. 
• They need really rich soil, but it must be freely draining. The tubers will not thrive if they are in boggy soil. 
• Some varieties are more sun tolerant than others, so be sure to check plant tags for light tolerance. 
• Well rotted manure or slow release fertilizer is a good idea in early spring when the foliage begins to appear. 
• Give the plants 1-2 inches ( 2.54-5.08 cm) of water per week, depending upon soil type. 
• Use slug prevention to avoid young leaf damage. Some diatomaceous earth around the plants is a good organic option. 
• Mulch around plants to protect the tubers in winter. 
• You can divide Hosta, preferably in spring. Keep divisions moist until they establish.

When it comes to lightly shaded situations in the garden, the world turns a fanciful eye to Hosta plants. Beloved for their varied and showy foliage, Hosta varieties for the south are limitless. 

Hosta Particulars

Hostas range from the largest at 4 feet (1.2 m.)to the tiniest at only a couple inches (5 cm.). Most Southern Hostas grow in a clump from 1½ to 2 feet tall and wide (.5 to .6 m.). The long-lived perennials, hardy to USDA zones 3 to 9, can be blue, yellow, green or variegated with long, sword-shaped or heart-shaped leaves, sometimes accented with wavy edges or a puckered texture. 

Southeast Hostas also are grown for their single or double flower spikes in purple, lavender, or white. Some varieties are sweetly fragrant. 

Some Like it Warm

Hostas for the South need to be chosen carefully because not all Hostas thrive in year-round warmth and they generally prefer a cold winter. Two of the best species of Hosta in the South are plaintain lily (Hosta plantaginea), which is the most heat and sun tolerant, and Fortune’s plaintain lily (H. fortunei), which can tolerate ¾ and ½ day of sun, respectively. 

Plant them in moist, well-draining soil amended with compost. Feed lightly with 10-10-10 fertilizer in the spring. 

Southeast Hostas: Choosing Hosta Varieties for the South

Here are popular Hosta varieties for the South:

• Albomarginata – green leaves with a creamy border
• Aphrodite – fragrant, double flowered, deep green leaves
• August Moon – heavily crinkled, gold leaves
• AureoMarginata – deep green leaves with a gold edge
• Elegans – puckered, blue-gray leaves
• Fragrant Bouquet – apple green leaves edged in yellow or cream
• Francee – wide, dark green leaves with a narrow, white margin
• Gold Standard – heart-shaped, chartreuse leaves with a deep green irregular margin
• Guacamole – variegated foliage
• Halcyon – heart-shaped, powder blue leaves
• Hyacinthina – large heart-shaped leaves with a blue cast 
• Miss Saigon – variegated foliage
• Moonlight – variant of ‘Gold Standard’ with a creamy-white edge 
• Patriot – dark green leaves with a white margin 
• Royal Standard – glossy, deeply veined green leaves, fragrant
• Stained Glass – golden leaves with deep green margins
• Sum & Substance – large, glossy, chartreuse leaves 

Pests and Disease

The Hosta is generally pest and disease resistant, however, its chief tormentors are slugs and snails who chew holes in the leaves. Saucers of beer placed even with the soil line are a popular deterrent. Snails are attracted to the beer, fall in and drown. Diatomaceous earth is a powder that can be sprinkled around the plants. Slugs can’t tolerate the sharp edges.

Hostas are popular shade-loving perennials cultivated by gardeners for their easy care and sustainability in a variety of garden soils. Hostas are easily recognized by their multitude of attractive foliage and upright flower stems, which bear lavender blooms during the summer months.

Should you use fertilizer for hosta plants? These beautiful, low-maintenance plants don’t need much fertilizer, but feeding hostas may be a good idea if your soil is poor or if your hosta isn’t growing and thriving as it should. Knowing how and when to feed hostas can improve their appearance in the garden and help them reach their mature height. Read on to learn more.

Choosing a Fertilizer for Hostas

Hostas prefer a garden soil rich in organic matter. Prior to planting hostas, amend the natural soil with compost made from animal manures and leaves. Hosta roots tend to spread horizontally, rather than vertically. Working compost in the soil to a depth of 8 to 12 inches (20.5 to 30.5 cm.) is sufficient.

Once this step is completed, consider testing the soil to determine if an additional amendment or fertilizer is needed. You can have your soil tested professionally or use a DIY home soil test kit. Check for both the nutrient level as well as soil pH. Hostas prefer a fairly neutral soil in the pH range of 6.5 to 7.5.

Adding and working compost into the soil around the hosta on a yearly basis is one method of supplementing nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus levels. Compost also supplies a variety of micronutrients. and can be reapplied any time throughout the season. Organic matter also improves soil quality and drainage.

If you prefer to use a manufactured fertilizer for hostas, it is advisable to base your choice upon the results of soil testing. For established hosta plants, consider retesting the soil every 3 to 5 years.

In lieu of soil testing, choosing a 10-10-10 fertilizer for hostas is a safe bet. Unless soil tests indicate a nitrogen deficiency, it's advisable to avoid using excessive amounts of high nitrogen fertilizer for hostas. Doing so can result in soft foliage that is more susceptible to disease and a reduction in the amount of yellow or white coloration in variegated leaves.

When to Feed Hostas

The best time to begin feeding hostas is in the spring when the leaves emerge from the ground. For optimal growth, continue to fertilize a hosta every 4 to 6 weeks while the leaves are growing.

Once hostas begin to bloom, their foliar growth slows down as energy is directed to the production of flowers and seeds. Their need for nitrogen will also drop at this time. Don’t feed your plants after mid- to late summer. Fertilizer for hosta plants this late in the season triggers tender new growth that is likely to be nipped by frost.

Hosta Fertilizer Needs for New Transplants

The optimal time to split and transplant hostas is in the spring or fall prior to seasonal rains. Newly transplanted hostas need to renew their root systems and are most vulnerable during dry spells. This is especially true for spring transplants, which put more energy into leaf production.

To encourage root growth in spring-transplanted hostas, apply a “starter” fertilizer. These formulas have higher levels of phosphorous which promotes root growth. Likewise, you can also use a slow-release fertilizer, which will nourish the plant for several weeks. Fertilizing fall transplants is not advisable. Excess fertilization can delay the onset of dormancy.

How to Fertilize a Hosta

Once your hosta is established, a dose of fertilizer as soon as new growth appears in early spring will ensure the plant continues to perform at its best. This is a good time to use a slow-release fertilizer for hosta plants.

Refer to the label and choose a fertilizer that lasts three, six, or nine months, depending on your climate and the time of application. A six-month fertilizer works well when applied in spring and will sustain the plant throughout the growing season.

If you prefer not to use a time-release fertilizer, you can apply a regular, balanced fertilizer with a ratio such as 12-12-12 or 10-10-10 every six weeks. A water-soluble fertilizer every couple of weeks is another option.

If you think the plant needs a boost during the summer, you can start out with a time-release product in spring. Then, supplement with a water-soluble fertilizer a couple of times mid-season, usually May or June. Water-soluble fertilizer is also the easiest way of feeding hostas in containers.

If you’re using a dry fertilizer, sprinkle the granules lightly on the soil around the plant. Water the plant immediately to ensure the fertilizer is evenly distributed around the root zone. Spray the leaves to remove any fertilizer that has landed on the foliage, as chemical fertilizers can burn the plant.

Always apply fertilizer according to the label recommendations. Ultimately, the key to growing healthy, robust hosta plants lies in knowing when and what types of fertilizer to apply. Don’t overdo it; too little fertilizer is always better than too much.

Hosta plants are easily one of the most popular perennials for the home landscape. Thriving in both full and partial shade conditions, hostas can add both color and texture to flower borders. These easy-to-grow plants are an ideal addition to new and established beds.

With minimal care, home gardeners are able to keep their hostas looking lush and beautiful. However, there are some maintenance aspects that will be a necessity. Establishing a consistent irrigation routine will be key in keeping hostas looking their best all summer long. Read on for more info on hosta water needs.

How Much Water Do Hostas Need?

When it comes to growing hosta, watering requirements will vary depending upon the conditions in the garden and the time of year. The process of watering a hosta plant will change from winter to summer. In growing hosta, watering needs reach their peak during the hottest parts of the summer season and wane as the weather begins to cool and plants go dormant in the fall.

Hosta irrigation is essential, as it will ensure that the plants grow large and remain healthy. These plants require soil that's well-draining but maintains consistent moisture levels at all times. This can be achieved through weekly watering using soaker hoses or drip irrigation systems.

Like many perennial plants, watering a hosta deeply is imperative – on average, they require about an inch (2.5 cm.) of water each week. By establishing a weekly watering schedule, plants can develop a more robust root system that is better able to access water deep in the soil.

During summers that are especially hot and dry, hosta plants may begin to turn brown and die. Although the process of going dormant in extremely dry conditions is normal, it is not ideal. Severe cases of drought can lead to dry rot and the ultimate loss of the hosta plants. Irrigation is key in avoiding these potential issues.

Gardeners should continue to water hosta plants until the first frost date has arrived. Cooler temperatures will signal to the hosta plants that it is time to move into winter dormancy. Watering throughout the winter is usually not suggested, with the exception of those living in the driest parts of the country without rain or snowfall.

Hostas are great solutions for shady spaces in the garden. There are also sun tolerant hostas available whose foliage will make the perfect setting for other plants. Hostas that grow in sun include variegated varieties, but there are several others (especially those with thick leaves) that are suited to brighter locations.

No shade but still love hostas? With a little searching, you can find hostas that like the sun. Just remember these plants like a lot of water and planting in the sun means frequent irrigation.

Are There Sun Tolerant Hostas?

Using hostas plants for sun means setting the stage for successful growth. While they like consistent moisture, the soil must be well-draining. Additionally, incorporate compost or leaf litter to enhance soil nutrient levels. Most species actually develop better color in a site with at least partial sun.

The yellow-leaved varieties are especially happy in the sun. Hosta plants for the sun may not tolerate extreme heat, however. Hostas that like the sun are still not happy when temperatures are high, but you can mitigate some of their stress by using an organic mulch around the root zone.

Variegated Hosta Plants for Sun

The variegated varieties are particularly suited for bright light situations. Some of these have white variegation which may become green in sun because of the amount of chlorophyll they will receive. Others have yellow to green variegation which stands up well to sunshine. Some varieties to try are:

• Sugar and Cream
• Albo-marginata
• Angel Falls
• American Sweetheart
• Happy Dayz
• Pocketful of Sunshine
• Rhino Hide
• White Bikini
• So Sweet
• Guacamole
• Fragrant Bouquet

Other Hostas That Grow in Sun

Sometimes, a little trial and error is in order when planting hostas in the sun. This is due to variations in soil, moisture, heat, and zone. Temperate zone gardeners will have the most luck while those in dry, hot regions will need to pick the very hardiest species and still may not succeed.

Among the hosta varieties that are suited to the sun, there are some blues, greens, and fragrant species. Keep in mind they will need watering frequently. Consider installing drip irrigation to deliver moisture under the leaves. Some great types to try out include:

• Fried Bananas
• Garden Delight
• Sum and Substance
• Sun Power
• Thunderbolt
• Liberty
• Honey Bells
• Aphrodite
• Royal Standard
• August Moon
• Pearl Lake
• Invincible
• Blue Angel
• Halcyon
• Elegans
• Zounds
• Squash Casserole
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How To Prepare And Care For Hostas In Winter

Wondering how to prepare hostas for the winter? Your gorgeous low-growing perennial hostas are usually planted in a shade garden. As winter approaches hosta lovers might be wondering how to winterize hosta plants. Or do hostas die back in winter? It turns out that hosta winter care varies. Some say to cut the plant back, some say to mulch, and some choose to leave the plant alone. Here’s what we have to say on hosta winter care. 

Do Hostas Die Back in Winter?

Herbaceous perennials hardy to USDA zones 3-4, hostas have short spreading rhizomes. In the spring, their broad foliage emerges from the crown. 

In the winter, hostas become dormant. They require a chilling period of 600-700 hours (vernalization) during which the hormone responsible for dormancy breaks down in preparation for the plant’s growth. Hostas, therefore, look dead during the winter, but they aren’t actually dead. 

As to how to prepare hostas for winter? This is a polarizing question. Some say leave the foliage, dead or not, on the plant. Others say to remove the leaves as they can foster fungal disease and provide a habitat for slugs and snails. 

Those who opt to leave the leaves contend that the leaves protect the plant during the winter and then break down to add nutrients into the soil. They also help to keep the roots cool in the early spring so growth doesn’t emerge too early. 

How to Prepare Hostas for Winter

Both points make sense. How you prepare your hostas for winter likely depends on your location. If your area is prone to frost with snow or continuous freezing temps soon afterward, it is fine to leave the foliage on the plant but you should still mulch. If you are in a more temperate region, it might be a good idea to remove the dying leaves so no critters or fungal diseases can hide out. 

There is one final caveat however. If you area is prone to voles, leaving the leaves on the plants will be the death knell for your hostas. The voles will understand this to mean you have left them a weather covering under which they will dig a network of tunnels while snacking on your hostas. 

How to Care for Hostas in Winter

So, since hosta winter care is up to the individual and region, what should you do with your hostas? If you do choose to cut the foliage back, do so when the leaves are limp and faded. 

If you know you have nematodes, this is a great time to remove the microscopic roundworms that live and feed on hosta leaves. Symptoms of nematode feeding begin in the early summer and present as yellow discolorings followed by brown streaks among the veining. Dispose of any infested foliage. 

On the subject of pests, now would be the time to address voles if you have them. As above, remove the leaves and set out repellents or traps. 

Mature hostas that have been in the ground for a full growing season don't usually need winter protection. That said, they will benefit from a good layer of winter mulch in the form of weed-free straw or pine needles applied in mid to late November. This layer will protect the plants from freezing and thawing cycles during the winter. Remove the mulch in the spring.

Frequently Asked Questions

What Do Hostas Look Like in Winter?

Hostas naturally die back for the winter. When the first frost hits, the leaves wilt to the ground, change color and if left on the plant, eventually rot. 

Why Did My Hosta Not Come Back?

If you have a hosta that hasn’t come back after the winter it is likely due to one of two things. 1.Mice or voles. 2.Extreme freezing and thawing cycles. 

Take steps to remove voles in the fall so they don’t overwinter in your hostas roots, and cover the crowns of the plant with a layer of weed-free straw or pine needles in mid- November to protect the plants from heaving. 

Hostas are one of those dependable landscape plants that we often don’t look at closely. Once properly planted, they return in early spring. Since these plants are usually bigger and more beautiful than last year, we rarely take a closer look, that is until we begin to notice the hosta leaves have holes.

Holes in Leaves of Hosta

Sometimes a closer look may reveal there are holes in hosta leaves. This is not a regular occurrence, but we don’t want our plants damaged. Likely, the damage will occur as spring ends and summer comes with the high heat that attracts eggs to hatch and pests to feed on our young, growing plants. Tattered leaves may appear, ruining the appearance of our perfect shade beds and gardens.

Why are There Holes in My Hosta?

When you’ve noticed what the holes look like and where on the leaf they are, you may have a clue as to what its cause may be. Large, irregular holes throughout the leaves may indicate a chewing pest, such as grasshoppers. You can use Carbaryl in dust form (Sevin) in the morning to stop their munching. An alternative approach for these pests includes the use of a naturally occurring microbe called Nosema locustae.

If you look closely and find new holes in leaves of hosta that are smaller, about the size of paper punch holes, you may have vine weevils. Dust these with Sevin in the evening, as dusk falls. Beneficial nematodes can also help take care of these insect pests.

If neither of these describe where or how your hosta plant has holes, you may be getting damage from slugs, snails, or both. Inspect the leaves with a flashlight at night, checking the ground and the underside of the leaves. A granular product called Sluggo is a possibility to get rid of them. You can also pick them off and dump in soapy water. Or you can put a homemade beer trap right where the slugs can drink, fall in, and meet their demise. A shallow lid from a peanut butter jar is deep enough but refresh it every few days.

Browsing deer stopping by for a snack are also a possibility, especially when leaves appear shredded. Add rosemary or other fragrant herbs to deter these animals.

All this damage may lead you to start pruning damaged leaves. However, this is not the time. Wait until after the killing frosts. You can remove fading flower blooms and stems at any time.

Hostas add interesting foliage to areas in need of large, spreading, and colorful leaves. Hostas are most often considered shade plants. It’s true that most hosta plants should grow in a partial shade or dappled sun area to keep leaves from burning, but there are now many sun-loving hostas available for the garden.

About Hostas for Sunny Spots

Newer hostas for sunny spots are appearing in the market with the claim of being hostas that tolerate the sun. Yet, there are hostas for sun that have grown for decades in many well-planted gardens too.

These plants can grow happily in areas that make morning sun available to them. Afternoon shade is a necessity, especially during those hot summer days. Further success comes from consistent watering and planting them in rich soil. Add a layer of organic mulch to help hold and conserve moisture.

Sun Tolerant Hostas

Let’s take a look at what’s available and see how well these hybrids grow in a sunny spot. Sun-loving hostas may help fill your landscaping needs. Those with yellow leaves or genes of the Hosta plantaginea family are among the best hosta plants to grow in sun. Interestingly, those with fragrant blooms grow best in full morning sun.

• Sun Power – A bright gold hosta holding color well when planted in morning sun. Grows vigorously with twisted, wavy leaves and pointed tips. Lavender flowers.
• Stained Glass – A sport of Guacamole with gold center colors that are brighter and wide green bands around edges. Fragrant, lavender blooms.
• Sun Mouse – A miniature hosta with rippled leaves that are bright gold in morning sun. This member of the Mouse hosta collection, developed by grower Tony Avent, is so new that nobody is yet sure how much sun it will tolerate. Try it if you want to experiment.
• Guacamole – The 2002 Hosta of the Year, this is a large leaf specimen with wide green border and chartreuse in the center. Veins are lined with dark green in some conditions. A rapid grower with fragrant flowers, this is proof that sun-tolerant hostas have existed for years.
• Regal Splendor – Also a Hosta of the Year, in 2003, this one has large, interesting leaves as well. It has gold margins with mostly blue-green leaves. It is a sport of Krossa Regal, another blue-leaved plant. Great tolerance of morning sun, flowers are lavender.

Growing in part to full shade, hostas are an extremely popular bedding and landscape plant. With their wide range of sizes, colors, and patterns, it is easy to find a variety that matches any ornamental color scheme. While not particularly prized for their tall flower spikes, hosta foliage easily creates a vibrant, lush atmosphere in the yard. Hostas are generally easy to grow and care free, but there are some issues to which landscapers may need to pay attention. One such disease, southern blight of hosta, may lead to major disappointment for growers.

About Southern Blight on Hostas

Southern blight is caused by a fungus. Not limited to hosta, this fungal infection is known to attack a wide range of garden plants. Like many fungi, spores are spread during periods of especially wet or humid weather. In some cases, the fungus is introduced into the garden through infected transplants or contaminated mulch. Since the cause of southern blight, Sclerotium rolfsii, is a parasitic fungus, this means that it actively seeks live plant material upon which to feed.

Signs of Hosta Southern Blight Fungus

Due to the speed at which plants become infected and wilt, southern blight can be extremely frustrating for gardeners. A hosta with southern blight first shows itself in the form of yellowing or wilting leaves. Within days, entire plants may have died back, showing signs of rot at the crown of the plant. Additionally, growers may notice the presence of small, red, bead-like growths called sclerotia. Though they are not seeds, the sclerotia are the structures by which the fungi will resume growth and begin to spread within the garden.

Controlling Hosta Southern Blight

Once established in the garden, the disease may be very difficult to remove. While it is possible to use some types of fungicide drenches on ornamental plants, this is most often used as a preventative measure rather than a treatment for southern blight on hostas. Additionally, fungicide drenches are not suggested for the home garden. The removal of infected plant matter from the area is of the greatest importance. The introduction of southern blight into the garden can be avoided by making sure to purchase disease-free plants from reputable garden centers and plant nurseries.

Dividing hosta plants is an easy way to maintain the size and shape of your plants, to propagate new plants for other areas of the garden, and to remove dead portions of the plant and to make it look nicer. Dividing is easy, once you know how to do it correctly.

How to Split Hostas

Should hostas be divided? Yes, they definitely should be divided for several reasons. One is that division is the only real way to propagate new plants. Hostas from seeds don’t grow true in most cases. Division is also a great way to clean up your hostas, remove dead portions, and keep them the size you want.

Here’s how to do it: Start hosta plant division by digging up the entire root clump. Pull it up and shake off loose soil so you can better see the root system. Hostas have a clumping root system, so to divide a plant, simply cut through the clump with a knife from the crown down. You can also pry apart the root clump with garden tools, but this won’t give you as much precision. Cutting through the roots is fine, as hostas roots quickly regrow once transplanted. You can divide one plant into multiples, with even just one bud per division. Keep in mind that the fewer buds you have in each division, the less likely it will be that the new plant will bloom in the first year or two after transplanting. Of course, if you are dividing to re-size your plant, this won’t matter.

When to Divide a Hosta

Hosta plant division is best done in early spring, before the spikes have grown very high. You can do it at any time throughout the spring and early summer. The smaller the plants are, the easier it will be to divide them and to avoid damaging any leaves. If you are only dividing your hosta plants to maintain the size or to keep them healthy, you only need to do it every five to ten years. Hosta plants are very forgiving when it comes to being divided.

They’re great for your first try at dividing perennials. Take care in ensuring each bud or group of buds has roots still connected and minimize damage to leaves. If you do damage any leaves, just trim them off.

Hostas are popular with many gardeners because they are easy to grow and maintain. They are perennials, coming back year after year, and they tolerate shade. Hostas tend to grow large, but if your space is limited, growing the adorable mouse-ear hosta may be for you. If you want to know how to grow mouse-ear hosta, here’s what you need to know.

What is a Mouse-Ear Hosta?

Miniature hostas are just what they sound like: miniature versions of the hosta plants you know and love. Blue mouse-ear hosta is one variety of this cute little perennial that is easy to grow and care for in a variety of settings.

At a maximum, these little plants grow to a height of 8 inches (20 cm.) and a spread of 12 inches (31 cm.). The leaves are thick, blue-green, rubbery, and curl inward a little bit, like a mouse’s ear.

Mouse-Ear Hosta Information and Care

The blue mouse-ear hosta grows into a compact little mound with near-perfect symmetry, so it is a beautiful addition to gardens, especially small spaces. It will produce showy, pale purple, bell-shaped flowers on stalks in midsummer.

Mouse-ear hosta care is as easy as the care of regular-sized hostas. They prefer part to full shade and soil that drains well. Unlike the larger varieties, these little hostas don’t tolerate heavy or clay soil very well. If you plan to place your mouse-ear hosta in the ground, you can amend the soil by mixing in pea gravel. Mulch is also important for miniature hosta plants. Since they are small, even a mild rain can splash up dirt and mud and leave the foliage looking messy.

Growing mouse-ear hosta is versatile as well as easy. These more compact plants are great for containers, but they can also be placed anywhere in the garden that a normal-sized hosta would go. Due to the small size and compact arrangement of foliage, mouse-ear hosta also makes a great groundcover for those shady areas where grass doesn’t grow well.

They look nice in rock gardens and around water features. The possibilities for mouse-ear hosta are nearly endless, and they make great additions to nearly every type of garden.

Hostas have become extremely popular in the last few years, with good reason. Gardeners love hostas for their colorful foliage, versatility, toughness, easy growth habits, and ability to grow and thrive without bright sunlight.

Plants that Grow Well with Hosta

Once you’ve decided that hostas are the best plant for that shady garden spot, it’s time to think about the best hosta plant companions. Although they’re gorgeous on their own, it helps to add a few plants that show them off to their best advantage. Hosta performs well in full or partial shade, so the best companions for hosta are those that are suitable for the same growing conditions. Climate isn’t a huge consideration unless you live in a very warm climate, as hosta grows in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. Blue and green hostas are easiest to coordinate with other plants, including colorful annuals and perennials. Gold or yellow shades or variegations are trickier, as the colors may clash with other plants, especially when the hues lean towards chartreuse. Often, it works to echo the colors in the leaves. For example, a hosta with blue leaves is complemented by purple, red, or pink flowers, while a variegated hosta with a splash of white or silver looks stunning with white flowers or other plants with silvery leaves.

Companions for Hosta

Here are a few suggestions to get you started: Spring bulbs

• Trillium
• Snowdrops
• Tulips
• Crocus
• Daffodils
• Anemone
• Caladiums

Ornamental grass

• Sedges (Carex)
• Japanese forest grass
• Northern sea oats

Shrubs

• Rhododendron
• Azalea
• Hydrangea

Perennials

• Wild ginger
• Pulmonaria
• Heuchera
• Ajuga
• Dianthus
• Astilbe
• Maidenhair fern
• Japanese painted fern

Annuals

• Begonias
• Impatiens
• Coleus

Have you ever thought about growing hosta indoors? Typically, hostas are grown outdoors in shady or semi-shady areas, either in the ground or in containers. However, just because growing hosta as an indoor plant isn’t the norm, that doesn’t mean it can’t be done – and beautifully at that! Read on to learn how to grow hosta indoors.

Can I Grow Hosta Inside?

Definitely! However, growing hosta indoors requires a bit more care and attention to ensure the plant’s needs are met.

How to Grow Hosta Indoors

Begin with the right container for your hosta. Some varieties require a very large pot, while small cultivars do fine in a relatively small container. To prevent rot, be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Place the hosta where it receives bright, indirect sunlight. Avoid direct sunlight, which is too intense. As with many other houseplants, they appreciate time outdoors during spring and summer, preferably in a somewhat shady location. With hosta houseplant care, you’ll want to water indoor hosta plants whenever the soil feels slightly dry, as hosta prefers soil that is consistently moist, but never soggy. Water deeply until excess trickles through the drainage hole, then let the pot drain thoroughly. Avoid wetting the leaves. Fertilize hosta every other week during the growing season, using a water-soluble fertilizer for houseplants. Unlike most indoor plants, indoor hostas require a period of dormancy during the winter, which replicates the plant’s normal outdoor growing conditions. Move the plant to a dark room where temperatures remain cool – about 40 degrees F. (4 C.), but never freezing. The leaves may drop off during dormancy. Don’t worry; this is par for the course. Protect the roots with a layer of shredded bark or another organic mulch. Water the hosta lightly once a month throughout the winter months. While the plant requires little moisture during this time, the soil shouldn’t be allowed to become bone dry. Return the hosta to its normal location in spring and care for as normal. Move the hosta to a larger container whenever the plant outgrows its pot – generally once every two or three years. If the plant has become larger than you like, this is a good time to divide it.

Hostas are the go-to plant when landscaping in shade or part shade. And why not? With more than 2,000 cultivars and many different types of hostas, you can find favorites to fit most situations. Grown mostly for their vivid foliage in USDA hardiness zones 3-9, hosta leaf colors are blue, green, chartreuse, or yellow and shades in between. They often are variegated with white, blue, green, chartreuse, or yellow edging or streaking.

Growing hosta plants is easy once they are planted in fertile, slightly acidic soil in part shade to full shade. They can be massed as a groundcover, tucked into woodland gardens, or grown in containers. Planting several of the same cultivar or color combination looks striking en masse. Or, for a large, shady bed, combine several different types of hostas with other shade-loving plants such as ferns, astilbe, bleeding heart, hellebores, and coral bells.

You can edge a border with small or mini hostas, use large hostas for a dramatic background, or select a giant hosta to use as a focal point in a shady garden.

Hostas are revered for their attractive leaf forms, but they do flower in summer. The bell or tubular shaped flowers are pink, lavender, white, or even red in some newer cultivars. They dangle on erect stems and beckon the hummingbirds.

Leaves emerge in early spring and form a mounding shape from a few inches (centimeters) tall to 3 feet (0.9 m) or more. You can diversify your foliage collection with smooth, twisted, curly, wavy, puckered or even powdered types of hosta plants. Some hosta flowers are fragrant, but not all.

Types of Hosta by Size

Hosta can be divided by size, fragrance, texture, or leaf color. Here we categorize them by clump height, as defined by the American Hosta Growers Association in 2012. Note that hostas grow a few inches taller in the Northern part of the U.S. than they do in the South. Northern mature heights are shown here.

Mini - Up to 8 inches

• Hosta plantaginea ‘Blue Mouse Ears’ - Leaves of mouse-ear hostas are a medium blue green and it's a fast spreader. The bell-shaped flowers are lavender with stripes. 2008 Hosta of the Year. Find a bareroot of 'Blue Mouse Ears' at Park Seed.
• H. ‘Mighty Mouse’ - Leaves are blue-green with up to ½ inch (1.3 cm) wide creamy white margins. Flowers are tubular, lavender, with purple stripes inside.
• H. ‘Curly Fries’ - Leaves are greenish yellow and narrow with wavy edges. The tubular flowers are lavender with purple stripes. 2016 Hosta of the Year.

Small - 9 to 14 inches

• H. ‘Halcyon’ - Leaves are heart-shaped, blue. Flowers are white with lavender striping. 2026 Hosta of the Year. ‘Sunny Halcyon’ sports bright, yellowish-green leaves. You can purchase 5-pack of 'Halcyon' hosta bareroots from Daylily Nursery through Amazon.
• H. ‘Fire and Ice’ - Leaves are pure white with 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide dark green margins. Flowers are lavender.
• H. ‘Lakeside Paisley Print’ - Leaves are unusual, with cream markings in the center that emerge from the petiole, and dark green margins. Tubular, lavender flowers have a darker striping. 2019 Hosta of the Year.
• H. ‘Autumn Frost’ - Deep blue-green leaves are surrounded by yellow margins that change to creamy white during the season. Tubular shaped flowers are lavender.

Medium - 15 to 22 inches

• H. ‘Patriot’ - Leaves are dark green with 1-inch wide (2.5 cm) white margin. The flowers are tubular, with violet stripes. 1997 Hosta of the Year.
• H. ‘Loyalist’ - Leaves are creamy white, with dark green margins. Flowers are pale lavender and tubular shaped.
• H. ‘Miss America’ - White leaves with 2 inch (5.1 cm) green margins. The flower is pale lavender with darker stripes down the center. A 1-gallon 'Miss America' hosta can be found at Lowe's.

Large - 23 to 29 inches

• H. ‘Stained Glass’ - Leaves are golden yellow with a 2-inch (5 cm) dark green margin that tolerates sun. Flowers are tubular, white, with purple stripes and are fragrant. 2006 Hosta of the Year. Find 'Stained' Glass' from Garden Goods Direct.
• H. ‘Dancing Queen’ - Large yellow to pale yellow leaves with piecrusted edges. Tolerates sun well. Flowers are lavender. 2020 Hosta of the Year.
• H. ‘Neptune’ - Blue leaves with wavy margins. Foliage is bluest in spring. The tubular flowers are pale lavender. 2023 Hosta of the Year.
• H. ‘Blue Perfection’ - Large, soft blue leaves with very fragrant lavender flowers.

Giant - 30 inches and above

• H. ‘Empress Wu’ - Gigantic green leaves in a clump that reaches 50 inches (127 cm) tall and 108 inches (274 cm) wide. Tubular-shaped flowers are lavender. Find 'Empress Wu' at Home Depot.
• H. ‘Sum and Substance’ - Large, light-green-to-chartreuse-to-gold leaves in a clump 60 inches wide (152 cm) and 36 inches (91 cm) tall. Tolerates sun well. 2004 Hosta of the Year.
• H. ‘Blue Angel’ - Heart-shaped blue-green leaves in a clump 48 inches (122 cm) wide and 36 inches (91 cm) tall. Flowers are glossy white.

Whether you need plants for full shade, full sun, a container garden, or want to fill some bare patches in your cottage garden, hostas are a fabulous species to grow. There are even some wonderful cold-hardy varieties! They are easy, hardy and gorgeous.

Do hosta plants have flowers? Yes, they do. Hosta plants grow flowers, and some are lovely and fragrant. However, hosta plants are known for their gorgeous overlapping leaves, not for hosta plant flowers. Read on for information about flowers on hosta plants and for an answer to the question: should you let hosta grow flowers?

Do Hosta Plants Have Flowers?

Every hosta plant grows flowers. Not every hosta plant flowering is a welcome sight to the gardener though. Many gardeners select hostas for the shade garden because of their lush foliage, not hosta plant flowers. The mounding leaves of cultivars can be spectacular, ranging in color from standard green to blues, white, and gold. They also come in many shapes, sizes, and textures. For example, if you want a very small hosta, you can plant “Baby Bunting” that even at maturity is only a few inches (8 cm.) wide. Other hosta plants, like “Blue Angel,” can grow to over 8 feet (2 m.) in diameter. Due to this emphasis on foliage, hosta flowers can be viewed as an extra plus for the plant. They can also be seen as a distraction from the main show.

Flowers on Hosta Plants

Hosta plant flowering can be a very fancy affair. The plants flower in summer, offering spikes of blossoms that look like lilies, in shades of lavender or white. The bell-shaped blooms can be showy and exceptionally fragrant, attracting hummingbirds and bees. New cultivars are being developed that offer even larger, more impressive blooms. Some offer up to 75 flowers per stem. In short, hosta flowers can add ornamental value to a hosta plant. Yet, many gardeners still ask: should you let hosta grow flowers?

Should You Let Hosta Grow Flowers?

Whether you want pure foliage or will accept hosta plant flowers is a matter of personal taste. Each gardener must make up their own mind. The quality of the blossoms your hosta plant flowering produces might influence your decision. Many gardeners like tall flower scapes, but not every plant produces them. Sometimes, especially with the white flowered hostas, the flower scapes are awkwardly short and stunted. Whether or not you allow them to bloom, you’ll want to clip the scapes when the blossoms fade. Faded hosta flowers are not attractive.

Gardeners go for hosta plants because of their lush greenery and shade tolerance. These popular shade plants offer an entrancing variety of foliage, from smooth leaves to puckered leaves, green or yellow or blue leaves, and leaves the size of a quarter to leaves as big as a plate. But pests can attack foliage and make it ragged. And come winter, the foliage of these perennials wilt and die back. These are the times to sanitize your pruners and get to cutting back hosta plants. Read on for information on how to prune hostas.

Can You Cut Back Hostas?

Can you cut back hostas? Yes, there’s no law against pruning hosta plants, and if you decide to undertake the task, your garden will thank you. For example, you can begin cutting back hosta plants if you don’t want the hosta flowers. It may seem odd to snip off the flowers from an ornamental, but keep in mind that the glory of hostas is their foliage. Some find that the blossoms distract from the glorious mound of overlapping leaves. These gardeners snip off the flower's stems as they appear. On the other hand, the blossoms are delicate and some smell heavenly. If you decide to let the plants flower, don’t snip them off until they begin to wilt.

When to Cut Back a Hosta

When to cut back a hosta depends on why you are cutting back hosta plants. You may have noticed that pests love hosta as much as you do: snails, slugs, rabbits, and even deer dine on it occasionally, leaving the plant unsightly. You’ll want to start pruning hosta plants as soon as you notice any pest damage. Cleaning up dead leaves helps prevent further damage from slugs and snails, and makes the munched plant look better.

How to Prune Hostas in the Winter

In autumn, hosta leaves turn shades of yellow and gold, then fade. This is the beginning of the plant’s dormant season, so you won’t see any more pretty foliage until spring. This is the time to get rid of dead leaves, so you’ll want to learn how to prune hostas in early winter. Dead leaves are pest-friendly, so you’ll do well to start pruning hosta plants as the foliage fades. Trim back all the leaves and foliage at ground level, then bag it up and dispose of it. That helps things look neat in the garden and keeps bugs from overwintering snugly in the dead leaves.

One of the boldest and easiest to grow perennial plants is the hosta. These large leaved beauties come in a range of sizes and hues and thrive in semi-shady areas of the garden with little extra care. However, pests on hosta plants can damage the exceptional foliage and diminish the plant's health. Check out some of the common hosta pests so you know what to look for and how to control these damaging little devils.

Recognizing Pests on Hosta Plants

Native to Asia, hosta plants now come in a range of cultivars and species readily available to gardeners. While hostas are fairly self-sufficient, hosta insect pests can really wreak havoc on the attractive leaves. Hosta plants are primarily grown for their majestic foliage, although they do produce lovely racemes of flowers that add to the stature of this low light loving plant. It is best to get on the ground floor of hosta pest control right as the new leaves are beginning to poke through the soil in early spring. Waiting to address pests on hosta plants may find you with shredded, discolored or deformed leaves, diminishing the beauty of the plant. Some of the damage by insects will be easily recognizable. That is especially true for chewing insects who will make holes in leaves, remove the edges of foliage and leave your prized hosta looking like a ragged version of itself. Other hosta insect pests cause more subtle damage.

• Hosta leaf nematode damage may be mistaken for a disease. These microscopic roundworms cause unsightly leaves that begin with yellowing streaks and develops into reddish brown widened areas of damage between the veins.
• Completely wilted plants that collapse upon themselves may be victims to voles, who tunnel under the plant and eat the roots.
• If you wake up one morning and find that you have absolutely no hosta foliage at all, you probably live in deer country. Hostas are just like candy to these foragers. Fences and repellents may be effective.

Common Hosta Pests

Outside of deer, rabbits and voles, hosta insect pests will be the most frequent issue. By far the most widespread damage in temperate, moist regions will be from slugs and snails. Their feeding activity leaves smooth chunks missing from the foliage. You can discern their presence by spotting the slime trails they leave behind. These pests are nocturnal and hide in mulch but a good organic slug and snail bait should prevent widespread damage. Other chompers who view the hosta plant as a buffet might be cutworms blister beetles and grasshoppers. These eat the leaves and chew into the veins, leaving behind shot holes, ragged gaps and tears at the edges of leaves. The timing of hosta pest control for these insects is critical to a successful fight and undamaged leaves.

Treating Bugs on Hosta Plants

There are many broad spectrum pesticides on the market, but it is best to avoid these as they may also target beneficial insects. Slug and snail baits are available and should be applied around the hosta garden in early spring and consistently after rains and irrigation. You may also try burying a small can or container at the hosta borders filled with an inch (1.5 cm.) or so of beer. Protect young hosta shoots from cutworms by surrounding the new foliage with a physical barrier such as a cardboard ring. Remove it once the new shoots are a couple of inches (5 cm.) off the ground. Other hosta pests are a bit harder to control without chemicals. Choose a non-toxic formula and apply in early spring when the pests are in their nymph stage. Nematodes can be combated with purchased beneficial nematodes. For larger insects you can simply pluck them off the foliage and destroy the pest. Slugs, snails and cutworms will be found at night so get a good flashlight and smashing boots to save your hostas from these damaging nuisances.

Hostas have become garden favorites in recent years, and it isn’t difficult to figure out why. Available in a huge variety of sizes, colors, and forms, hostas provide color and interest in those difficult, shady garden spots. Hostas are relatively trouble-free, but they can be affected by various diseases. Read on to learn more about a few of the most common hosta plant diseases and treatments.

Common Hosta Diseases

Diseases of hosta plants generally include both fungal and viral issues, as well as problems caused by nematodes in the soil.

Fungal Diseases

Anthracnose – This disease plagues not only hostas but many other types of plants, including trees and tomatoes. Although it usually isn’t fatal, the large, pale brown spots, small black splotches, and tattered appearance can definitely detract from the appearance of the plant. A fungicide may help prevent the disease. Be sure hostas are spaced widely enough to provide air circulation; anthracnose thrives in damp conditions. Fusarium root/crown rot – This fungal disease usually appears in late spring, when leaves turn yellow and brown before they die and drop from the plant. Stems near the soil line often display a dry, brown or black decay. Infected plants should be removed, as plants with crown rot normally cannot be treated. Sooty mold – Common hosta diseases include sooty mold, which is often found on hostas planted under trees affected with sap-sucking pests, such as scale or aphids. The pests produce a sugary excrement, which drops on the plant and attracts the dark, unattractive mold. Sooty mold is unsightly but usually harmless. However, it can block light, which can affect the health of the plant. The fix? Wash the guck off with warm, soapy water and treat the plant for pests.

Viral Diseases

Hosta virus X – Early symptoms of hosta virus X include green or blue spots that give the leaves a mottled appearance. The symptoms look normal at first, but the leaves may become twisted, puckered, or distorted as the disease progresses. Unfortunately, there is no cure for this viral disease, which is easily spread from plant to plant on garden tools or hands. Plants should be destroyed as soon as possible. Treating hosta diseases such as Hosta virus X requires the cleaning and sanitizing of all your garden tools. Other viral diseases include tomato ringspot, tomato wilt, impatiens necrotic spot, and Arabis mosaic. Although symptoms vary, affected plant leaves tend to display puckering and yellowing. Some may develop concentric rings that look like targets.

Nematodes

Nematodes are minuscule worms that live in the soil or inside the tender hosta leaves. The foliage turns yellow when the nematodes are feeding in early summer. As the season progresses, the leaves develop brownish streaks between the veins. Eventually, entire leaves turn brown and drop from the plant. Affected leaves should be destroyed. To prevent the nematodes from spreading, water the plant at the soil level to keep the leaves dry.

One of the beautiful features of hostas are their rich green leaves. When you find your hosta plant leaves turning yellow, you know something is wrong. Yellowing leaves on hosta doesn’t necessarily mean disaster, but it is definitely time to investigate. The problem could be anything from too much sun to incurable diseases. If you want to find out why hosta leaves turn yellow, read on.

Reasons for Yellow Hosta Leaves

Hosta leaves turn yellow for a wide variety of reasons, and it is important for you to figure out the particular reason that applies to your plant.

Hosta Leaves Turning Yellow from Scorch

Perhaps the easiest situation to remedy is when yellow hosta leaves indicate too much sun. Hosta are plants that grow best in partial shade or even full shade. In fact, they are regular fixtures in the shade garden. If you grow them in full sun, you can expect yellow hosta leaves. The foliage turns yellow and scorches at the margins.

When you see hosta plant leaves turning yellow because of too much sun, it is termed hosta scorch. Hosta scorch is even more pronounced if the plant is also grown in poor soil. The plant prefers soil rich in organic matter that will hold water. During a drought, or when dried out in full sun, the hosta leaves become pale and the margins scorch. You can give the plant temporary relief by watering well early in the day with something like this 2 Gallon Watering Can from Amazon, but the better and more permanent solution is to transplant the hosta to a shaded site in high organic matter soil.

Yellowing Leaves on Hosta Indicating Disease

When yellow hosta leaves indicate disease, the options for treating the problem are more difficult. When you see yellowing leaves on hosta, the plant may have petiole rot, caused by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii var. delphinii. The earliest symptoms are yellowing and browning of the lower leaf margins. If you see brown, mushy decay and white fungal threads or fungal fruiting structures about the size of mustard seeds at the base of the petiole, your plant probably has this disease. You cannot save plants infected with petiole rot. Prevent the problem by inspecting young plants carefully before you plant them. You should also remove and destroy all infected plants and remove and replace the soil to 8 inches (20 cm.).

Other fungal diseases, rots, and virus diseases that cause yellowing leaves on hosta are equally impossible to cure. For fusarium root and crown rot, bacterial soft rot, hosta virus X and other viruses, all you can do is remove the plants and destroy them, trying not to spread the disease to other plants. Since fungal diseases live in the soil and attack hosta at or below the surface of the soil, you may need to kill the fungus by solarizing the soil with black plastic. Be sure to keep your garden tools clean, keep the area free of debris, and avoid transplanting diseased plants. Other fungal diseases, such as root and stem rot, are generally caused by excessive moisture and are usually deadly. Be careful not to overwater and don’t limit air circulation by crowding the plants. Water your hosta at the soil level to keep the leaves dry.

Pests Causing Yellow Hosta Leaves

Foliar nematodes are microscopic worms that live inside the leaves. Symptoms, which are usually first noticed in early summer, begin as a yellow discoloration that later turn into brown streaks between the leaf veins. Keep an eye on the plant and remove affected leaves immediately to prevent the pests from spreading.

Hosta Leaves Turning Yellow Naturally

Once the growing season dies down, hostas will naturally begin to enter dormancy. When this happens, you may notice yellowing hosta leaves. This is perfectly normal and nothing to worry about. Once the leaves have completely died back in fall, you can cut the plant back.

By: Sandra O'Hare Hostas make a lovely shade garden plant but there is no reason that these hardy and versatile foliage plants need to remain tucked away in your shade garden. Hostas will also thrive in containers and look wonderful accenting a shady patio or porch. Also, if you have serious trouble with slugs in your garden, container gardening with your hostas may be the answer.

How to Plant Hosta Plants in Containers

To plant your hostas in containers:

1. Fill the base of the pot you've chosen with rocks for drainage. One or two inches (2.5-5 cm.) will do.
2. Fill the pot with your choice of soil mix. Don't fill it completely just yet, though.
3. Place a handful of slow-release fertilizer in the container.
4. Add a little bit of soil to the fertilizer, mix it up well and then put the hosta on top of that.
5. Remove the hosta from its growing pot and fork over the root ball to help free the roots. This will help the plant establish quickly in the new container, but will not damage the roots.
6. Center the hosta in the pot and then fill the container with more soil.
7. Make sure you water the plant carefully.
8. Finally, cover the surface of the container with a thick layer of small pebbles. This stops any slugs and will help keep the roots of your hosta cool. It's also going to prevent the soil from drying quickly.

Remember that hostas in containers need water regularly. Make sure you water them below the leaf canopy and around the crowns. Excessive wetting can mark the leaves. At the same time, make sure that the container you plant your hostas in has good drainage. This is important to keep root rot from setting in. You can tuck in a few other shade loving flowers and plants as well. Hostas make a wonderful backdrop to help make the colors of the flowers pop. Even on their own, hostas can help add a tropical feel to a shady but soilless area in your garden.

Hostas are a perennial favorite among gardeners and with 2,500 varieties to choose from, there's a hosta for every garden need, from ground cover to giant specimen. They come in leaf colors that range from almost white to a deep, dark, blue-green. They reach their full maturity in four to eight years and given good care and the right growing conditions can outlive their owners. They're a great plant to share with neighbors and friends and are prime candidates for transplanting. Hostas are easily moved once you know how to. To transplant hosta plants, you'll need a good shovel, nutritious additives for the soil, and, for larger specimens in particular, a means to move your plant.

When to Transplant Hostas

Before we discuss how to transplant hostas, we need to talk about when to transplant hostas and that involves both the time of day and time of year. The best time to transplant hostas is in the spring, but that's really because it's easier on you, the gardener, than on the transplant. Hosta plants always need plenty of water and the trauma of transplant, no matter how slight, increases that need. So, the best time to transplant hostas is when Mother Nature is more likely to do the watering for you. It's also easier to see the new shoots, without the risk of leaf damage. If you have a choice in deciding when to transplant hostas, don't do it in high summer when the ground is hard and the air is dry.

How to Transplant Hostas

Before transplanting hostas, it's best to prepare their new home. Remember, when you're thinking about the best time to transplant hostas, you should also be thinking about the best place to transplant hosta plants. They could be living there for the next fifty years. Dig the new hole wider and deeper than the old. Mix plenty of organic enrichments into the refill dirt and add some time-release fertilizer, not only to help get your plants off to a good start but to give them a healthy future as well. Dig all around the hosta clump and, using a garden shovel or fork, pop the clump out of the ground. Rinse as much of the old soil off as you can without damaging the roots and then move your hosta to its new home. Beware, hosta clumps are heavy! If you're thinking about dividing your plants, now's the time to do it. Have a wheelbarrow handy or a tarp that you can use to drag the clump to its new home. Keep the roots damp and shaded, particularly if there will be a delay in when to transplant. Hosta plants depend on their root's rapid adjustment to their new environment. Set the clump in its new home a little above the depth it was in the old. Fill in around it with the enriched soil, mounding the soil around the clump until it's covered to a little over the depth it was before. When the soil settles over time, the clump will rest at its original depth. Keep the clump well watered for the next six to eight weeks and watch it carefully in the weeks thereafter for signs of wilt due to lack of moisture. Be aware that the first season after transplanting hosta may yield smaller leaves due to trauma, but the following year will see your plant happy and healthy once again.

Hostas are herbaceous perennials that are well-loved by gardeners for their shade tolerance. Some varieties thrive even in deep shade. Gardeners also love hostas because they are easy to care for and come in a wide variety of sizes and colors. Hostas grow in mounds of various sizes with broad leaves and tall flower stalks.

Water & Light Requirements

A hostas light requirement is among its most noteworthy characteristics. Hostas are so popular, in part, because they tolerate quite a lot of shade compared to most perennials. Most varieties do best in a spot that gets some morning sunlight and afternoon shade. Many grow well in dappled or even deep shade.

The color of the foliage provides a clue as to a hosta's light needs. The darker-colored varieties retain their deep coloring better with some shade. Lighter-colored hostas stay bright when provided with some sunlight.

Hosta plants prefer moist soil, but it should drain well to prevent root rot. Once established with a healthy root system, a hosta plant will tolerate dry soils and drought. Use mulch around hostas to keep moisture in the soil.

Soil & Fertilizer

Rich soil with high organic matter content is best for hostas, but they will tolerate poorer conditions. The soil should drain well and remain consistently moist for the best results.

Fertilizer is generally not necessary unless you have poor soil. Use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in spring and avoid over-fertilizing. Do not apply fertilizer after July, as it can interfere with how the plants prepare for winter.

Pruning and Propagating Hostas

Hostas require minimal to no pruning during the growing season. You can remove hosta flowers once they're spent and trim back any yellow or damaged foliage to keep the appearance tidy. Cut back dead foliage in late fall or early spring.

Propagate hostas by division in early spring. Dig up the roots and separate plants, ensuring each crown has adequate roots attached. You do not need to divide hostas regularly to keep them healthy. 

They will simply slow their growth when crowded.

Problems, Pests, & Diseases

Deer and rabbits love to eat hostas, especially in suburban areas where natural foods are harder to find. They can mow down a plant in one night. Use a repellent to keep them away. Another common pest is slugs, which can be managed with bait, like dishes of beer.

Diseases are possible but not common in hostas. Look for signs of root and crown rot and avoid these by spacing plants adequately and ensuring the soil drains well.

Hostas are susceptible to a couple of viral diseases. Some signs of infection include streaking between the veins on leaves, leaf mottling, and brown spots on leaves. Infected plants should be completely removed and destroyed. When purchasing plants, look for resistant varieties.

Hosta Varieties

Many cultivars of hosta are available at garden centers and online. You can find hostas in a wide range of sizes and colors. A mix of different types provides visual interest in shady beds. Here are just a few varieties to try:

• Pandora's Box - This is one of the smallest varieties and has variegated leaves with white centers and green edges.
• Baby Bunting - Also small, this variety has rounded, bluish-green foliage.
• Hosta plantaginea - This species of hosta has better heat and sun tolerance than most. It is medium-sized with pale green leaves and white flowers.
• Sum and Substance - Choose this large variety for slug resistance. The leaves are glossy and chartreuse in color. The leaves are thick enough to resist most slug damage.
• Gold Standard - This is a popular variety for its unique gold-green color with darker green margins. It grows up to three feet (.91 m) tall.
• Frances Williams - Frances Williams is another popular variety with deeply veined leaves that have a puckered texture. The color is blue-green with lighter edges. It is a large variety.
• August Moon - This is a bright chartreuse variety with no variegation. Variations in sunlight change the color.
• Blue Angel - For one of the largest possible hosta specimens, try Blue Angel. It has large, textured, deep bluish-green leaves. It resists slug damage better than most varieties.

Hosta care is relatively easy.

This, along with its shade tolerance and great variety in cultivars, makes hostas ideal for many areas of the garden.

Hosta plants are popular perennials grown for their foliage. Generally, these carefree plants, which thrive in shady locations, suffer from few problems. However, occasional problems with hostas do occur, so knowing what to look for is important in order to treat or prevent further hosta problems.

Common Hosta Pests

What causes holes in hosta leaves? This is one of the most common questions associated with hosta plants. Essentially when bugs are eating hostas, slugs or snails are usually to blame. These nighttime foragers are probably considered the most common of hosta pests, eating small holes in the leaves. Silvery colored slime or snail trail throughout the garden area is a good indication of their presence. Control of these slugs may include the use of beer traps, which they crawl into and die. Another insect pest that chews hosta leaves is the adult black vine weevil. Signs of this insect are irregular notches along the outer edges of leaves. Their larvae also pose a problem by feeding on the crown and roots of hosta plants, resulting in yellow, wilted foliage. Nematodes, which are microscopic roundworms, typically cause disease by infecting hosta plants much like fungi or bacteria. As with fungal infections, they thrive in moist conditions. Nematodes often feed within the leaves, producing brown areas between the veins, which result in an almost striped appearance. This generally occurs in late summer. Affected plants should be destroyed. You can prevent most nematode attacks by providing adequate spacing between plants, avoiding wet foliage through the use of soaker hoses, and removing and destroying all infected plants. Think just bugs are eating hostas? Think again. Deer and rabbits will oftentimes feast on hosta plants. In fact, deer may leave only stalks where beautiful hosta foliage once was while rabbits usually prefer nibbling on the young shoots.

Common Hosta Diseases

Anthracnose is one of the most common diseases affecting hosta plants. This fungal disease thrives in warm, wet weather. The most obvious sign of anthracnose includes large, irregular spots surrounded by a dark border. Once the centers of the spots fall out, the leaves may look torn and can sometimes be mistaken for pest damage. As with nematode prevention, try to keep a good distance between plants and avoid overhead watering which results in wet foliage. The use of fungicide spray in spring may be helpful as well. However, look for those that specifically target this disease. Another fungus that affects hosta plants is Sclerotium blight. This disease first targets the lower leaves but then quickly spreads to the upper ones causing a path of wilted, brown leaves. In addition, there is usually a fluffy, white mass on the petioles. This particular fungus is difficult to control, as it lives in the soil and overwinters beneath mulch. Therefore, it often helps to pull back any mulch from the plant. Crown rot also affects hostas and is often caused by overly wet situations. This disease usually results in yellow foliage, stunted growth, and root rot.