The peace lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii) has a reputation for being unkillable, which does it a slight disservice. It survives neglect. Looking lush and pushing out those white spathes is a different bar, and July is when the gap between surviving and thriving shows. Warm air and faster growth pull more from the plant than the quieter months do.

None of it is complicated. Good peace lily care in summer comes down to reading what the plant is already telling you and adjusting before a droop turns into a brown edge. The five tasks here cover the stretch through the hottest part of the season, and none of them takes long.

5 Peace Lily Tasks Worth Doing in July

A peace lily is expressive, which makes it forgiving. The leaves sag when it's thirsty and perk back up soon after watering, so it tells on itself before harm sets in. That feedback is what keeps the summer routine manageable.

1. Water More Often, but Read the Soil First

Heat drives thirst, and a peace lily that coasted on a weekly drink in spring may want water every few days once July settles in. The dramatic wilt is the giveaway, but chasing that peace lily droop on a rigid schedule overcorrects into soggy roots. The soil is the better guide. When the top inch (2.5cm) feels dry, it's time; when it's still damp, wait.

Watering a peace lily with rainwater or filtered water is better than hard tap, since the browning leaf tips so many owners fight often trace back to fluoride and chlorine building up. Letting tap water stand overnight helps a little. The plant drinks fast in the heat, so a pot left to dry out completely collapses hard and takes a couple of days to recover, if it recovers all the way. Humidity is the half of watering that summer strips away, since air conditioning pulls moisture out of a room. A peace lily raised on tropical damp responds with brown, papery leaf tips, and watering more never fixes that one. The answer is putting moisture back in the air – group it with other plants, set the pot on a pebble tray like this one from Amazon, or run a small humidifier nearby.

2. Feed Lightly for Those White Spathes

July sits in the middle of active growth, and a hungry peace lily puts out leaves at the expense of flowers. A balanced houseplant fertilizer keeps both going, and a gentle 3-3-3 liquid houseplant food from Amazon diluted to half strength suits a plant this sensitive to salt buildup. Feeding once a month through summer is plenty.

More is not better here. Over-fertilized peace lilies show it fast. The leaf tips crisp up brown, and a white crust of mineral salt starts creeping across the soil. Flush the pot through with plain water if that shows up, then skip the next feeding. Plenty of people mistake a plant with all leaves and no blooms as hungry, when usually it's the opposite.

3. Get the Light and Placement Right

Peace lilies pass as shade plants. Indoors that mostly holds, so summer sun through a south window can scorch them in a way low winter light doesn’t. Watch for pale washed-out patches, or bleached blotches where a leaf has taken too much direct sun. Bright indirect light a step back from the glass keeps the color rich without burning.

The flip side is true too. A peace lily parked in a genuinely dark corner stays alive but rarely blooms, since it needs decent light to bother producing spathes at all. Somewhere it casts a soft shadow is about right. Keep it clear of air-conditioning vents while you're adjusting placement, because that cold dry draft browns leaf edges as surely as too much sun does. Giving the pot a quarter turn each time you water keeps growth even, since a peace lily leans toward its light source over a few weeks and grows lopsided otherwise.

4. Groom the Leaves and Deadhead Spent Blooms

Dust is a quiet problem on a broad-leaved plant. A film across those big leaves blocks light and slows the plant down, so wipe each one with a damp cloth every couple of weeks to keep them working and glossy. Spent flowers matter as well – once a white spathe fades to green and then browns, cut the whole stalk to the base with a clean pair of Fiskars micro-tip pruning snips from Walmart so the plant redirects that energy into new growth.

Older leaves yellow off on their own schedule, and those get trimmed at the base as they go. The wiping does double duty, putting your eyes on the leaf undersides where spider mites (Tetranychus urticae) and mealybugs settle in before anyone spots them. Both love the summer heat. Catch a handful early and you can often skip the infestation entirely.

5. Check Whether It's Ready for a Bigger Pot

Summer growth can tip a peace lily into being root-bound. A few things give it away. Water runs straight through instead of soaking in, roots poke out the drainage holes, and the plant wilts again almost as soon as it's watered. A rootbound peace lily blooms poorly and dries out constantly, undoing the other four tasks.

When repotting a peace lily, go up just one pot size – too large a container holds excess water and invites root rot, which peace lilies are prone to. A Vigoro 8-inch ceramic planter with drainage from Home Depot suits a plant stepping up from a 6-inch nursery pot. That said, these things flower best a little snug in the pot, so if none of those signs are showing, leave it where it is and look again in fall. Do these five through the summer and your peace lily rewards you with that deep green flush and a steady run of white spathes, right when the rest of the garden is wilting in the heat.

Pothos is prized for its long vines and lush foliage, as well as its low-maintenance needs. Even newbies to growing houseplants can easily keep a pothos alive. That said, a little care here and there will ensure it thrives for years, help it to reach impressive dimensions, and keep it looking lush and vibrant while doing so. July is the heart of the growing season, a time when your pothos is growing faster than ever – so why not take advantage of the growth phase to tweak key elements of appearance and health?

July pothos care is really quite simple, but these little tasks make a huge difference. During peak summer, indoor light levels and ambient temperatures align to trigger rapid cell division in tropical vines. However, without a few deliberate tweaks, that sudden burst of energy can result in sparse, leggy growth or scorched foliage. If your indoor pal is looking a little tired or, conversely, is shooting off long, naked runners, then now is your prime window of opportunity to get on top of things.

Taking just 15 minutes this month to finetune your plant’s appearance and quality of living will set the stage for lush, dense growth over the next few months, and also give your pothos the foundation it needs to thrive year after year. Here’s how to give your gorgeous twining vine an easy-peasy July glow-up.

Quick Pothos Tasks in July

These simple tasks all work together to encourage longer vines, fuller growth, and healthier leaves. Your pothos will be well-positioned to thrive throughout the rest of summer and continue producing lush greenery well into fall. But before jumping into your pothos care routine, it helps to assess where your plant lives and how your local environment might be influencing its indoor climate.

Perhaps you live in a hot, dry climate (like USDA hardiness zones 9-11), where air conditioning constantly strips the indoor air of humidity? Or maybe you are growing your pothos in a cooler, humid region (zones 5-7), where windows are left open to invite summer breezes. Either way, your pothos will react to its surroundings. Container-bound vining plants also rely heavily on conditions within the pot.

Setting aside just 20-30 minutes for prep work pays huge dividends. Check for early signs of common summer pests, like spider mites or mealybugs, which thrive in dry indoor conditions, and tackle early issues with a diluted neem oil spray. Next, test the density and moisture level of your soil mix. Compacted, nutrient-depleted soil cannot support the vine expansion typical of summer growth. Keeping a moisture monitor like the XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon on hand takes the guesswork out of root-zone checks, so you can be sure existing moisture levels are healthy.

If your soil has degraded or lost its airy texture, grab a bag of high-drainage substrate like Miracle-Gro Potting Mix for Tropicals from The Home Depot. It’s a good idea to topdress your houseplant potting soil before tackling these care steps. This will help to refresh the pot without suffocating delicate roots, and will balance drainage before you start on these key pothos tasks for July.

1. Water Your Pothos Regularly

Pothos is very forgiving, but it grows best with consistently moist soil. Water is especially important in July, when growth is rapid and indoor air tends to be dry. The best way to water is to give the potting soil a good soaking infrequently. Let the water run out of the drainage holes. When the top inch or two (5 cm) is dry, water again. While your pothos likes moist soil, it doesn’t like soggy roots, so empty the saucer under the container after watering, or raise the plant on risers or pot toes, like these sweet Tortoise Decorative Pot Toes for Planters, available from Walmart.

Highly variegated cultivars like N'Joy or Manjula have less chlorophyll and slightly slower transpiration rates than solid green or Jade pothos. This makes them more sensitive to overwatering. Conversely, fast-growing Golden or Blue Cebu will drink rapidly during heatwaves. If you neglect deep watering, you risk root desiccation, which leads to yellowing lower leaves and premature leaf drop along the main vines.

For controlled hydration that won't wash away surface soil, a narrow-spout watering vessel like the Vatenkrasse Ivory and Gold Watering Can from Ikea ensures even delivery directly to the root zone. You can expect to see perked-up, turgid leaves within 12-24 hours of a deep soak.

2. Protect from Bright Light

This is an easy plant to grow indoors: indirect light, dappled light, and filtered light all work well. Indeed, it is often too much sunlight that can cause issues. Direct afternoon rays passing through window glass act like a magnifying glass, causing irreversible foliar sunburn. Variegated varieties like Snow Queen or Marble Queen are especially vulnerable, because their white sectors lack protective pigments.

If the July sun is too intense in your plant’s usual spot, move it for a while. Remove it from very bright windows, place it outside under a patio, or move it to an east or north-facing window. Too much direct sunlight can scorch leaves, ultimately killing them. Definitely don’t shock the plant by moving it straight from a dim interior room to an unshaded outdoor patio. Intense UV light can bleach leaves pretty quickly.

To maintain high humidity without harsh sun exposure, especially if keeping your plant near a bright bathroom window, consider softening direct rays with a decorative window film like the Rabbitgoo Frosted Window Privacy Film from Amazon. If shifting your plant away from natural windows leaves it in too dark a corner, use a gentle, full-spectrum light source, like the Maystar Full Spectrum 2000W Dual Switch Grow Lamp from Walmart. Adjusting light exposure yields noticeable results within a week, preventing further leaf loss and encouraging rich color development.

3. Feed Lightly

Pothos plants don’t always need to be fertilized. Again, they are forgiving plants. They can grow well in rich and poor soil. If you never fertilized it, the plant would survive. That said, a little light feeding while it’s putting out new growth will keep it healthy and vigorous. Use a balanced houseplant fertilizer about once a month in the summer. For gentle, consistent nourishment, use a balanced liquid formula like Back to the Roots Organic Indoor Plant Food from Amazon.

These plants don’t need a lot of extra nutrients, so use the fertilizer at half strength. Ensure the root system is pre-dampened to prevent chemical burn. Water the pot thoroughly along with the fertilizer to reduce the risk of scorching the roots. To boost root vigor and enhance natural leaf sheen, you can also add a tiny splash of a seaweed tonic, such as Neptune’s Harvest Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer from Walmart. Within 2-3 weeks of a gentle July feed, you should see glossier unfurling leaves.

Supplying a light, balanced diet now ensures that new leaves open at their full potential size, with rich pigmentation and thick, durable cuticles. Skipping fertilizer entirely during active summer growth may not be the end of the world, but it often leads to small, pale leaves and thin, fragile stems. Just don’t go too far the other way with heavy formulas. These can cause salt buildup and brown leaf tips.

4. Prune and Propagate for Denser Growth

Pothos is very good at putting out long, trailing vines. In the wild, the vines can grow as long as 70 feet (21 meters). If you are seeing long, stringy vines, you can trim your pothos in July to encourage growth to branch out. Try pruning the longest vine to a point just above a leaf node. This will stimulate the vine to split, giving denser, bushier growth. To ensure clean cuts, use precision cutters like Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon and sterilize before and after. Don't remove more than 25-30% of the total plant foliage in one session, as this can shock the root system.

As a bonus, you can take select cuttings to create a new plant. You can either pot up your cuttings or place them in a glass or jar of water. Select healthy cuttings with 2-3 nodes for propagation. Root your fresh summer cuttings in style, using a tabletop propagation setup like the Mkono Plant Propagation Station from Amazon, or the Arlmont & Co Plant Terrarium with Wooden Stand from Wayfair for a modern yet organic twist. Cuttings placed in water will begin throwing out white water roots within 10 to 14 days during July's warm window.

5. Give New Growth Something to Climb

Most pothos plants grow vines that trail from pots and baskets. In their natural habitat, pothos vines will climb. Provide a vertical support, and you’ll be rewarded with larger leaves than if they trail. Since pothos puts out new growth in July, this is a great time to tackle this simple task. Try a small trellis that you can sink into the soil of the pot or secure to the outside of the container. One pretty trellis frame that slides into the pot is the WellSign Honeycomb Potted Plant Trellis from Amazon.

Another option is to use a moss pole. You can also make your own moss pole, or you can get one ready made. For a natural option, try Lanney Moss Poles for Plants from Walmart. Secure your trailing vines gently along the pole or trellis, using soft, adjustable ties like Velcro One-Wrap Garden Ties from Lowe’s. Within 3-4 weeks of securing aerial roots to a moist support, you will observe new leaves emerging that are much larger than their trailing counterparts.

In their native tropical environments, pothos are epiphytic climbers. When aerial roots contact a sturdy, moist surface, the plant signals its mature phase, producing larger leaves with structural integrity. Leaving vines to hang downward keeps the foliage in a juvenile state, where leaves remain small and uniform. Providing vertical climbing real estate in July takes full advantage of aerial root development. Keep moss poles slightly damp to encourage aerial roots to latch on firmly.

Shop Pothos Care Essentials

Maintaining a lush, vibrant pothos is a simple joy if done quickly at regular moments. If you need a few gentle organic boosters to help you get these tasks done well, this trio can help. Take a little time to help your vines thrive, and you’ll encourage fuller growth and glossier leaves.

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Used coffee grounds are often recommended as a natural fertilizer for many houseplants. But do orchids like coffee grounds? The answer isn’t a flat no. It depends almost entirely on which orchid is being discussed and how the grounds reach it.

A spent filter full of coffee grounds feels wasteful in the bin, which is probably how this idea got started. There’s real nitrogen in there. There’s organic matter too, along with years of internet advice insisting that acid-loving plants will thank you for the trouble. Orchids occupy an odd position in that conversation.

Two of those assumptions don’t survive much scrutiny, and the stakes are higher when fertilizing orchids than they would be when using coffee on tomato plants. It's important to understand that orchid roots evolved for conditions nothing like garden soil, and the medium in a typical pot serves a purpose that has little to do with nutrition. Get that part wrong, and the nitrogen content stops mattering.

Why Coffee Grounds Might Help Orchids

First up, I cannot overstate this: all types of orchids cannot rely on coffee grounds alone. They still need a specialist orchid fertilizer to provide the balanced nutrients they require. I like to use Better-Gro Orchid Plus 20-14-13, available from Amazon, which is urea-free.

But what if you're looking for a natural top-up? The nutrients in coffee grounds are genuinely there. Used grounds contain around 2 percent nitrogen by weight, with smaller amounts of potassium and magnesium alongside. They also add organic matter and hold moisture. Soil microbes break them down over time into something a plant can eventually take up. For a vegetable bed or home compost pile, that’s a decent contribution from something free.

The acidity claim is where the reasoning goes sideways. Brewing pulls the water-soluble acids out of the beans and into the cup, leaving spent grounds close to neutral, at around pH 6.5 to 6.8. Anyone using them to lower pH is banking on a property the grounds gave up in the machine. Whatever they do for an orchid, acidifying the medium isn’t it.

Are Coffee Grounds Suitable for Every Type of Orchid?

The answer hinges on one key distinction. Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis species) are epiphytes, as are Cattleyas, Dendrobiums, and Vandas. In the wild, they cling to tree bark, with their roots hanging in moving air. Those roots are covered in a spongy layer called velamen, which soaks up water in bursts and then needs to dry out. Orchid bark mix in a pot is an attempt to recreate those airy conditions; providing nutrition is not its primary purpose.

Terrestrial orchids play by different rules entirely. Bletilla striata, the hardy ground orchid, grows in ordinary soil outdoors in USDA zones 5 to 9. Lady’s slippers (Cypripedium species) and ladies’ tresses (Spiranthes species) also grow in the ground. Their roots encounter organic matter much as those of other perennials do, making this a very different conversation from the one happening in a bark-filled pot.

Nearly every argument about coffee grounds and orchids comes down to two very different types of plant being discussed as though they were one.

Why You Shouldn't Add Grounds Straight to Orchid Bark

Wet coffee grounds behave like silt. Sprinkled into a pot, they filter down between the chunks and pack into the gaps, turning an open medium into something that stays damp long after it should have dried. A bag of orchid bark, such as this Rosy Soil mix, which contains biochar and mycorrhizae to improve plant health, is coarse for a reason, and filling those spaces defeats the whole design.

What follows is fairly predictable. Fungus gnats (Bradysia species) can breed in the damp organic layer, while white, fuzzy mold may spread across the surface within a couple of weeks. Roots that need air remain wet instead and can begin to rot from the outside in. Caffeine residue is another unknown: it has been shown to inhibit root growth in a number of plant species, and it is not well established where orchids fall on that list.

The Safest Way To Use Coffee Grounds for Orchids

For epiphytic orchids in bark, a heavily diluted and thoroughly strained coffee-ground “tea” avoids the problem of solid particles clogging the mix. It is still an experiment rather than a dependable part of orchid care, however, as its nutrient strength is impossible to judge and traces of caffeine may remain. I don't recommend it, but if you're determined to try it, then only use it very occasionally on already-damp roots, discard it if it smells sour or fermented, and flush the pot with plain water at the next watering. A specialist orchid fertilizer should remain the plant’s main source of nutrition.

For soil-grown orchids, composting the grounds first removes most of the risks. Around six months in a heap or a Costway dual-chamber compost tumbler from Walmart allows microbes to break the grounds down into something crumbly and stable. Much of the caffeine will have degraded, and the nitrogen has already passed through the microbial process that would otherwise need to happen in the pot.

Keep the ratio sensible while it cooks. Grounds need plenty of brown material alongside them – dry leaves or shredded cardboard – since a heap built largely from coffee can turn slimy rather than breaking down cleanly. Once finished, that compost can be used sparingly around terrestrial orchids growing in soil. It still has no business in a container of bark, no matter how well composted it is.

Can Terrestrial Orchids Benefit From Coffee Compost?

Here the answer turns cautiously positive. A hardy ground orchid in a border has real soil under it, and the microbial community that comes with it. Work finished compost lightly into the surface, and it behaves as it would around any perennial. Structure improves. Nutrients arrive slowly, and the ground holds moisture further into summer.

Restraint is the whole game, though. A thin scattering once or twice a season does it, kept clear of the crown and pseudobulbs where trapped moisture starts rot. Uncomposted grounds piled on thickly cause something different – soil microbes go after that fresh carbon and pull available nitrogen out of circulation while they work. The plant goes hungry through the exact weeks it's putting on growth. That reverses eventually, but it can cost a season of flowering first.

Signs Coffee Grounds Are Harming Your Orchid

The medium tells you first. Bark still wet several days after watering has lost its drainage, and a white or gray bloom across the surface confirms it. A sour, fermented smell from the pot says the same thing. Small dark flies rising when the plant gets moved point at gnats breeding in there.

Roots give the clearest verdict, and a clear pot makes them visible. Healthy orchid roots look plump and silvery green when wet. Anything brown and soft has drowned, and a root that collapses under light pressure is past saving. Above the pot, watch for leaves turning yellow from the lowest ones upward, or a plant that stops producing new growth entirely for a season. At that stage, repotting an orchid into fresh medium beats waiting to see whether it recovers.

Coffee Grounds Aren't a Substitute for Orchid Fertilizer

Orchid feeds are formulated around a limitation that explains this entire question. Many are urea-free because urea needs soil bacteria to convert it into a usable form, and a pot of bark simply doesn't hold enough of them. The same microbial gap that rules out urea rules out coffee grounds even more firmly.

For epiphytes in containers, a weak solution at every other watering covers what the plant needs, with an occasional plain water flush to clear accumulated salts. Anyone determined to use spent grounds should compost them properly and spread the results around terrestrial orchids outdoors. Moth orchids on a windowsill do better with something formulated for the job.

Orchid Essentials

A spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) asks for very little, which is half its charm. But July is the month it pays to give your plants a bit of attention. Warm rooms and bright summer light have spider plants growing fast, throwing out new leaves, and long stems that end in baby plantlets. Give your plant what it wants now and, by late summer, you'll be looking at a full, cascading plant with spiderettes to spare.

Good spider plant care functions on the same handful of principles year-round, but July shuffles the order of priorities. Heat puts water and light near the top of the to-do list and it opens up the best stretch of the year for multiplying your spider plant into a fuller flush of spiderettes.

A few small jobs over the coming weeks and the results turn up in the leaves and lots of new spider babies. Here’s what your spider plant needs this month to keep it thriving for the rest of the year.

1. Water Steadily

A spider plant that took a week to dry out in spring can go dry in a few days once July heat sets in. So check more often. Sticking a finger into the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil will help you tell if soil is dry enough for another watering. Or use a soil moisture meter, like this one from Amazon.

Water your spider plants so that the soil is evenly moist, but never soggy and never bone dry. Let it swing between those extremes and the plant sulks, pouring what energy it has into hanging on rather than making spiderettes.

The water itself is worth a thought here, too, since spider plants are unusually touchy about water quality. Fluoride and chlorine in tap water build up over time and show up as crispy brown leaf tips on spider plants. Rainwater, distilled water, or tap water that you left out overnight avoids the problem. It's an easy swap to make once the tips start browning.

2. Feed Lightly

All that summer growth runs on nutrients. But spider plants are light feeders, so treating one like a hungry tomato can actually do more harm than good.

Applying a half-strength liquid houseplant food, every two to four weeks while it's actively growing, keeps the foliage deep green and the plantlets coming. Something gentle, like this Grow Queen Organic Liquid Indoor Plant Food from Amazon, does the job at a reduced dose.

Pour on more than that and it backfires. Excess fertilizer leaves salts behind in the soil and those salts can burn the leaf tips the same way hard tap water does. A plant that’s busy coping with that won't have spare energy for producing spiderettes.

If you've already overdone it and given your plant too much fertilizer, run plain water through the pot for a minute to flush out the mineral buildup, then dial back fertilizing your spider plant.

3. Give It Bright, Indirect Light

Light is the lever that most affects whether you get spider plantlets at all. A spider plant in a dim corner survives, but it stays sparse and rarely bothers with producing babies.

Set your plant where it get plenty of bright, indirect light – a little back from a sunny window, or right up against a north or east one. A mature plant answers by sending out more of the arching stems that become spiderettes.

Direct summer sun is the one thing to steer clear of. Midday rays through glass can scorch foliage, bleaching it pale and leaving burnt patches, especially on variegated types of spider plants.

If the leaves look washed out, move the pot back from the glass. A quarter turn each week keeps growth even, rather than the whole plant leaning toward the window.

4. Provide Plenty of Humidity

Crank the air conditioning and your indoor air goes bone-dry, which spider plants feel keenly. Those same brown tips trace partly back to dry air. Dry, warm rooms are exactly what spider mites look for, too. They're ready to settle onto a plant that's already stressed. Nudging the humidity up a little shuts down both problems at once.

There are a couple other low-effort fixes that work well, too. Cluster a few plants together or stand the pot on a tray of pebbles and water and the air right around your spider plant stays moister.

Misting adds to the humidity as well, and a Fiskars plant mister from Amazon is just a thirty-second job on a hot morning. But one caution: don't leave foliage damp into the night because moisture sitting on the leaves invites fungal spots.

5. Pot Up Spiderettes

Those dangling plantlets on your spider plant are one of the big benefits of growing this houseplant and July is a good time to turn them into new plants. Once a spiderette has grown a few small nub-like roots of its own, it's ready to pot up to propagate more spider plants for free.

Here's the method that gives the best result: set 4-inch (10 cm) nursery pots, like these ones from Walmart, filled with damp potting mix right next to the parent plant, and peg the still-attached spiderette into the soil. It roots in place while the parent keeps feeding it.

A couple of weeks later, once it has taken hold in the fresh soil, snip the runner that joins it to the parent. Rooting spiderettes in a glass of water works as well, if you cut them off first, though the soil-and-peg method tends to produce a stronger plant.

Whichever route you take, the potted babies can fill out thin spots in your existing display and leave you extras to hand off to anyone who admires the original.

6. Repot If It's Crowded

Here's something a little counterintuitive: spider plants flower and set plantlets best when they're root bound, so hold off on repotting in July unless absolutely necessary. A snug pot encourages your plants to produce more babies.

Repot spider plants only when they genuinely need it. Signs your plant needs repotting are thick white roots shoving above the soil line and coiling out the drainage holes or a pot that dries within a day of watering.

When it really is time to repot, move up a single pot size and use fresh, well-draining potting mix, like this houseplant potting soil from Miracle-Gro. Jumping to a huge container can backfire, since all that extra wet soil around the roots invites rot and stalls the plant's growth while it tries to fill the space.

July's active growth means a spider plant bounces back from repotting fast, so it's a fine month for the job – as long as the plant actually needs it.

Orchids have a reputation for being fussy, but most of what they need in July is simple – it just has to actually happen. Summer is a growth season, even when they're not flowering. Behind the scenes, the plant is banking energy for its next flower spike months down the line. Get the summer care right, and that spike comes in strong. Get one thing badly wrong, and you can quietly cancel next season's show before it starts.

Good orchid care in summer comes down to a handful of small tasks and avoiding that one costly slip. None of it takes long, but you need to get into a good rhythm. Steady, moderate care beats sporadic bursts of attention.

Most houseplant orchids are Phalaenopsis (aka moth orchids), so that's the assumption here, though the advice carries to most common types of orchids. If you want to expand your collection, then other good beginner varieties include Dendrobium and Cattleya orchids – both of which are included in this well-rated five-plant set from Angel's Orchids via Amazon.

1. Get the Light Right – and Avoid the Scorch

This is it. The mistake that quietly costs people their next round of flowers. Never leave your orchid sitting in direct summer sun. The leaves scorch fast – a bleached or browned patch that never heals – and those leaves are the plant's whole engine for powering the next spike. Damage them in July, and it's not just an ugly leaf you're dealing with; it's a missing bloom cycle. Summer sun through a south or west window hits far harder than winter light; a plant that was fine there in January can start burning now.

Bright but filtered is the target. An east window is close to perfect; for anything brighter, a sheer curtain takes the edge off. A self-adhesive portable curtain, like this one on Amazon, lets you temporarily protect plants without drilling. You can just take it down once the high heat of summer has passed.

If you're not sure whether your orchid's light levels are correct, check the leaves. Grassy green is about right; dark forest green wants more; anything bleached or reddish means pull it back fast. Mine sit a couple of feet (60 cm) back from a south window behind a thin curtain, which is the sweet spot in summer.

2. Rethink Watering for the Heat

Orchids drink more in summer, plain and simple. Warmth and active growth dry the bark faster, so the winter rhythm needs to tighten up. Watering orchids on a strict calendar, though, is how roots rot – check first, every time. In a clear pot, silvery-gray roots mean it's thirsty and still-green roots mean wait. No clear pot? Lift it: light means dry, heavy means hold off.

When you water, do it properly – run it through until it pours from the drainage holes, then let it drain fully. The one rule I never break: don't leave water sitting in the crown, that central well where the leaves meet. Trapped there, it invites crown rot, which can kill a Phalaenopsis outright. A quick dab with a paper towel clears any that pools. Morning watering gives the plant all day to dry.

3. Give Them More Humidity

Most orchids come from humid, tropical places and want the air around 50 to 70 percent. Summer works against that, oddly – not the outdoor air, but the air conditioning, which pulls moisture from a room fast. Too little, and the plant shows it: leaves go slightly wrinkled, and developing buds can shrivel and drop before opening. That last one, known as orchid bud blast, stings after months of waiting.

An easy fix is a humidity tray – a shallow water reservoir with pebbles that hold the pot above the waterline, so evaporation raises humidity without the roots sitting in water. This humidity tray from Amazon does just that under a windowsill grouping. Clustering plants together helps too. Misting gets pushed a lot, but it's honestly weak and short-lived, and late-day misting leaves water pooled where you don't want it. If all else fails, use a small humidifier, like this Levoit model.

4. Feed While They're Growing

Summer is prime orchid feeding time – the plant is growing and can use the nutrients. The old grower's phrase is “weakly, weekly”: a regular diluted feed at a quarter to half label strength, not a heavy dose now and then.

A balanced, urea-free orchid food, like Better-Gro Orchid Plus, diluted to under the bottle's suggested strength, is the standard pick. Urea nitrogen isn't much use to a plant rooted in bark.

One important rule to remember: never feed a bone-dry plant. Salts on parched roots scorch them, same as on anything else – water first, or feed right after a normal watering. Once a month, flush the pot with plain water to rinse out built-up salts before they burn the roots.

5. Keep the Air Moving

Air movement is one of those things nobody thinks about until something goes wrong. In the wild, orchids grow in trees with near-constant breeze over their roots and leaves. On a still windowsill in a warm, humid room, they lose that – and stagnant, damp air is where fungal spots and rot get started. A little moving air keeps leaf surfaces dry and the setup far less welcoming to trouble.

A small fan on its lowest setting, aimed to stir the air near the plants rather than blast them, does the job. This Gaiatop Portable Clip-on Fan is ideal – clamp it to a shelf edge, and it moves just enough without drying things out or knocking buds around.

Aim for a gentle drift, not a wind tunnel; if the leaves are whipping, it's too much. A few hours a day suffices.

6. Stay Ahead of Summer Pests

Warm weather wakes up the orchid pests. The biggest summer offenders are usually mealybugs – check for their little cottony white specks tucked into leaf joints. Scale shows up as small brown bumps that scrape off with a fingernail, while spider mites leave fine webbing and a dull, stippled look.

The trick is catching them early, before a handful becomes an infestation. A once-over every week or two does it – flip the leaves, check the crown, and peer into the tight spots.

For a light case, a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol wipes mealybugs and scale right off. Bigger outbreaks want more reach – neem oil smothers soft-bodied pests and doubles as a mild fungicide. A popular organic pick is Bonide Captain Jack's neem oil. Spray it on a cool, shaded evening so it doesn't bake onto the leaves.

Move an affected plant away from the others while you sort it out. It takes no time for pests to jump between orchids sitting shoulder to shoulder.

July Orchid Care Essentials

I'm the sort of person who cries at adverts, so you'd best believe I'm always slightly heartbroken when a bromeliad finishes flowering. And can you blame me? After weeks – sometimes months – of those spectacular, colourful bracts stealing the show, it's all too easy to assume the plant's best days are behind it.

Fortunately, in a delightfully Sir Terry Pratchett-esque turn of events, the secret to coaxing more blooms may be sitting in your fruit bowl. Because, yes, there may be a way to encourage a bromeliad to bloom again, and it all involves our beloved bananas exploiting a new niche.

Don't believe me? Well, consider this: in the wild, bromeliads are exposed to ethylene as fallen fruit ripens around them, and the gas can act as a signal that it's time to flower. And where does ethylene gas come from?

Why, it's a naturally occurring plant hormone released by ripening fruit, of course. Ripening fruit like (you guessed it) bananas.

How Bananas Can Encourage Bromeliads to Bloom

That's right, folks; in the wild, these colorful houseplants are exposed to ethylene as fallen bananas ripen around them, and the gas can act as a signal that it's time to flower.

To recreate this at home, gardeners often place a mature bromeliad inside a clear plastic bag with a ripe banana or apple for around seven to 10 days. The fruit releases ethylene gas, which may trigger the plant to produce a new flower spike over the following weeks or months.

Patience is essential, however. Bromeliads are not quick to rebloom, and results can vary depending on the species, the age of the plant, and growing conditions. Bright, indirect light and consistent care will still play a major role in encouraging flowers.

It’s also worth noting that the original bromeliad rosette flowers only once in its lifetime. After blooming, the mother plant gradually declines while producing offsets, or “pups,” around its base. These pups can eventually mature and flower themselves, extending the life of your bromeliad collection for years.

Still, for anyone mourning the loss of their bromeliad’s colourful display, the humble banana might just be worth a try. And bromeliads aren’t the only plants where ripe bananas can influence flowering behaviour. In fact, ethylene is already used in commercial horticulture to help regulate flowering and ripening in a wide range of crops.

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In some ornamental plants and tropical species, exposure to ethylene can help trigger or synchronise blooming, which is why gardeners sometimes experiment with placing ripe bananas near plants that are reluctant to flower.

That said, this is not a universal flowering hack. Many common houseplants and garden species won’t respond at all, and some can even be negatively affected by prolonged exposure to ripening bananas in enclosed spaces. Which means you should think of the banana trick less as a guaranteed solution, and more as a gentle nudge for plants that are already close to their natural flowering point.

For bromeliads, though, that whole "just add bananas" idea remains one of the more intriguing experiments. It’s probably not going to turn your kitchen into a tropical greenhouse of miracles overnight, sure, but it does make you wonder if, somewhere in the background, your plants are quietly taking notes every time you restock the fruit bowl.

The peace lily has a reputation as the houseplant nobody can kill, which is mostly fair and a little misleading. It survives low light and shrugs off neglectful watering – but then makes you pay by going dull and brown-tipped, and becoming slow to flower. June is when that neglect shows, as warmth and longer days push it into growth.

Good peace lily care in June is less about rescue than upkeep: small adjustments to watering and light, feeding included, that keep the leaves glossy and coax out the white spathes. None of these tasks is difficult, and most take a few minutes. A peace lily that gets the full set looks the part by midsummer: glossy leaves, the odd bloom, and no brown edges spoiling the look.

1. Step Up the Watering, and Check What’s in the Water

A peace lily drinks faster in June’s warmth and active growth, so the once-a-week winter routine can leave it quite thirsty. The plant makes its needs plain: leaves go limp and the whole thing sags when the soil dries, perking up within hours of a drink. Useful as that signal is, repeated hard wilting wears it down, so check the top inch (2–3 cm) of soil every few days and water your peace lily once it feels dry.

What comes out of the tap matters more than you’d think. Peace lilies are sensitive to chlorine and fluoride in treated water, and salts don’t help – brown, crispy tips are the usual result. Standing water overnight clears the chlorine; filtered or rainwater handles the fluoride. One of mine grows with its roots down in an axolotl tank, the glossiest of the bunch, since that water stays dechlorinated and filtered.

Peace Lily June Care Essentials

2. Raise the Humidity Around Your Plant

A peace lily comes off the damp floor of tropical forests; a living room in summer is the opposite. Air conditioning pulls moisture from a room fast, and the strain tends to show first at the leaf edges, which brown and turn papery. Grouping a few plants together helps a little, since each raises the humidity around the others as it transpires.

For a real change, moisture has to go back into the air directly. A Levoit cool mist humidifier from Amazon near the plant holds humidity up better than misting does – a quick mist looks productive but dries off within the hour. A pebble tray is the low-tech version: a dish of water and stones keeping the pot above the waterline, topped up as it evaporates. Either way, the aim is to have air closer to the understory than to a desert

3. Feed, but With a Light Hand

June sits in the feeding window, since a peace lily only uses fertilizer while growing hard through spring and summer. The catch is that it’s a light feeder, and the usual mistake is being too generous. Piling it on doesn’t buy more flowers; it builds up as salts that scorch the tips and push the plant toward soft, leafy growth instead of blooms.

When fertilizing peace lilies, a balanced liquid feed at half label strength, every four to six weeks, is plenty. Reach for a formula designed for houseplants, like Espoma Organic Indoor Plant Food, and there’s little to get wrong.

Flushing the pot with plain water periodically clears the salts feeding leaves behind. I spent years blaming my tapwater alone for brown tips before realizing the soil had salted up from overfeeding – a flush fixed it faster than switching water did.

4. Wipe the Leaves Until They Shine

Those broad, glossy leaves are most of a peace lily’s appeal, and they double as dust magnets. The film builds faster than expected, dulling the shine and, worse, blocking the light the plant needs to photosynthesize and flower. The fix is about as simple as plant care gets: wipe each leaf with a soft, damp cloth, with a hand underneath for support so it doesn’t bend or tear.

Plain water on a microfiber cloth (I use this one from Amazon) is the whole kit; skip the commercial leaf-shine sprays, which coat the surface and clog the pores it breathes through. I use my own DIY spray, but a drop of mild soap will do to shift any greasy residue – just rinse after.

Cleaning houseplant leaves is also a good time to spot pests. Check the undersides, where spider mites and mealybugs settle first; a leaf you’re already wiping is a leaf you’re inspecting. Caught there, they rarely become a real infestation.

5. Get the Light Right for Summer

Light is where the flowering question gets settled. A peace lily wants bright, indirect light to bloom; in a dim corner, it stays green but seldom throws a spathe. A plant that never flowers is usually one that’s too dark. The instinct is to shift it to the brightest window, and in summer, that can backfire.

The summer sun sits higher and harder than in spring, and direct midday light through glass can scorch the leaves, bleaching pale patches that don’t recover. The sweet spot is bright light through a sheer curtain, or a spot a few feet back from a sunny window – strong, but never direct. East-facing windows tend to suit it, with gentle morning sun and shade once the afternoon turns. Washed-out leaves or dry brown patches mean it’s getting too much; pull it back a foot or two (30–60cm), and it usually settles.

6. Cut Spent Blooms Back to the Base

A peace lily flower doesn’t bow out gracefully. The white spathe greens over, then browns at the edges and turns shabby while the rest of the plant is still going. A spent bloom does nothing and pulls the eye to the tattiest part of the plant, so take it off completely rather than trim the brown back.

When pruning peace lilies, follow the flower stalk to where it rises from the crown and cut it there with a clean, sharp pair of precision pruning shears – Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips are ideal. Leaving a stub invites rot and looks worse than the bloom did.

Bear in mind, an immature peace lily won’t rebloom on cue: nurseries force those uniform shop-floor blooms with a hormone – gibberellic acid – so a young plant at home may not be mature enough to flower yet. Given decent light and a season or two, though, it gets there on its own.

There comes a point in every houseplant lover's journey when the collection starts to look less like a carefully curated indoor jungle and more like you've accidentally opened a small garden centre in your living room. I should know – for the jury's consideration, please see Exhibit A: my bathroom windowsill.

If you know, you know. Shelves groan under the weight of pots, your houseplants have a definite Day of The Triffids vibe to them, propagations take over every available surface, and your once-stylish windowsill has disappeared beneath a sea of mismatched terracotta and nursery containers.

It's a very real problem, essentially, for anyone who has lived it. And that's why I was immediately taken with these stackable mini greenhouses when I stumbled across them during another late-night doomscroll session.

Stackable Mini Greenhouses? Sign Me Up!

Rather than simply housing plants, these stackable mini greenhouses from HB Life turns them into a display in their own right – creating a clean, contemporary look that feels more boutique hotel than chaotic plant parent.

Made from clear acrylic, the transparent walls mean light can still reach your plants, while the magnetic door provides easy access for watering, pruning, or simply admiring your latest leafy acquisition.

Measuring 14.1 x 8.6 x 10.6 inches, these stackable mini greenhouses are compact enough to sit on a desk, shelf, sideboard, or windowsill, making them ideal for small spaces. And, even better, ambitious plant parents can create a striking vertical display without sacrificing precious floor space.

The greenhouse is designed for seed starting and propagation, making it a particularly attractive option for anyone nurturing cuttings. It is also perfectly suited to small houseplants, too; think tropical plants such as begonias, ferns, baby alocasias, and philodendron cuttings, all of which could all benefit from the more sheltered environment.

"Only just put them together, but currently rating 5 stars! I needed a way to give my plants sunlight without my kittens knocking them over or eating them," reads one five-star review on Amazon.

Another adds that it did wonders for their humidity-loving houseplants, noting: "I like that it's plastic so I don't have to worry about accidently breaking it."

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Still, let's be honest; practicality is really only half the appeal here, as what really elevates this greenhouse is its aesthetic potential. For renters, apartment dwellers, or anyone trying to bring a little more order to an ever-expanding plant collection (guilty as charged!), it could be an elegant solution to a surprisingly common problem: how to keep your houseplants looking chic rather than cluttered.

Houseplants are not all the same. Some decorate a side table or sit quietly near the kitchen window. Others have star quality and light up a room. Fiddle leaf figs (Ficus lyrata) fall squarely in the “star” category with their huge, shiny, violin-shaped leaves and proud, upright carriage. I happen to share my San Francisco apartment with three of them and consider them part of my family.

But every houseplant needs some care, no matter how strong and magnificent they look. And in June, as spring turns to summer, it’s time to focus on fiddle leaf fig care. Generally, these houseplants need bright indirect light, humidity and consistent watering. But in June, it’s time to go a little further.

Here are five tasks to put on your fiddle leaf fig list for the month.

1. Check Sun Exposure

When I first adopted a fiddle leaf fig plant, I associated it closely with a fig tree. I have planted a few fig trees in my garden in France, so I know their growth requirements very well. Fig trees I like sun, direct sun. My plants get sun 8 hours a day. As a word smith, I latched onto the word “fig tree” in my fiddle leaf’s common name and just went with it, placing my houseplant by a southern facing window.

But fiddle leaf fig plants are not closely related to fig trees and their light needs are different. Those gorgeous fiddle-shaped leaves need indirect light, not direct sunlight. Mine came in with large, lush, leathery leaves but these quickly turned crispy in full sun.

Even if you didn’t make the same mistake that I did, June is the moment to check your plant’s sun exposure. As spring matures into summer, the sun’s path across the sky changes and its intensity increases. One June day when you are spending the day at home, monitor the sunlight on your fiddle leaf every few hours. A tad of morning sun isn’t so bad, but if the rays of afternoon sunlight touch the leaves of your houseplant, move it to another location.

2. Figure Out if the Temperature is Spiking

Fiddle leaf figs are picky about a variety of things, but they are fairly tolerant when it comes to temperatures. They will thrive in average household temperatures (as low as 60 degrees F and as high as 85 degrees) as long as there are no temperature swings. Too big a temperature swing can cause drooping leaves.

As the sun exposure shifts in June, the temperature of the room in which your fiddle leaf is located may change too. You can combine this task with the previous one. Every time you check on sun exposure, check the thermometer too. A simple combination thermometer/hygrometer from Amazon will help immensely when caring for your houseplants.

A swing upward may result from too much direct sunlight entering the room, and a swing downward may result from extra air conditioner time. If that’s the case, it’s time to move the houseplant to a room without temperature swings.

3. Dust Those Beautiful Leaves

Dusting fiddle leaf fig leaves should not be restricted to June, but June is a good month to restart this every-other-week task if you have neglected it. Dust on the leaves impedes the process of photosynthesis. And it also lessens the beauty of the iconic foliage.

How to dust? Use a damp cloth and gently wipe both sides of every leaf. Microfiber cloth works well. Be sure to hold the leaf with one hand while you wipe it with the other. It’ll break your heart if you accidentally crack off the leaf.

4. Review Your Watering Habits

Fiddle leaf fig houseplants need regular irrigation, but they are somewhat picky about how much. They prefer moist soil but object to excess water. They’ll let you know by dropping their leaves and, if the condition continues, developing root rot. They will signal too little water, the leaves wilt and the color dulls. Generally, you want to water when the top two inches of soil are dry. You don’t have to use a tape measure. Just poke a finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. Or purchase a small moisture meter from Amazon.

If you keep your houseplant in a clay pot, you’ll have to worry about high salt levels in the soil. Salt can accumulate in the soil from the clay pot, or from watering with treated water. June is the perfect time to flush out the salt buildup. Run tap water into the soil until it pours out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the container. If the tap water is fluorinated, use filtered water instead.

5. Repot Your Fiddle Leaf Fig

June is the perfect time to check whether it’s time to repot your fiddle leaf fig houseplant. You don’t want it to be short of soil with summer rolling in. How can you tell if it’s time?

The plant’s leaves are a good thermometer of distress. If the leaves are yellowing or falling off, it may be a sign that it has outgrown its pot. Another indication is that the plant's roots are growing up and out of the pot or down and out of the drain holes. Finally, if there are no new leaves or growth, or the soil pales, it’s time to repot. Get a container just size bigger than the old one and put a base layer of fresh potting soil into the bottom.

The key to repotting your houseplant is to water it well a few days earlier. When it’s repotting day, turn the container on its side and wiggle out the plug of soil and roots. Trim off any dead or damaged roots. Sit the fiddle leaf fig in the new pot and add a 1:1 mix of old soil with new potting soil to fill the pot.

I've been growing plants indoors for nearly two decades, and during that time I've learned that the right equipment can make all the difference. From raising seedlings under lights to growing herbs, vegetables, and tropical plants year-round, I've spent countless hours testing products to find out which ones genuinely improve results and which are all marketing hype.

Grow lights have probably seen the biggest transformation over the years. I've used everything from old fluorescent tubes to bulky HID systems, but modern LED technology has changed the game. Today's full-spectrum LEDs are more energy-efficient, longer-lasting, and capable of producing impressive growth without generating excessive heat.

I've taken a similar trial-and-error approach with fertilizers, potting mixes, hydroponic nutrients, and smart gardening gadgets. Thanks to my background in plant and soil science, I'm always looking beyond the marketing claims to understand what actually benefits plant growth. The products that make this list aren't just popular – they're tools I'd happily use in my own indoor garden.

Amazon Prime Day is one of the few shopping events where I actively look for gardening deals. It's often the best time to pick up premium grow lights, hydroponic systems, seed-starting equipment, and other indoor gardening essentials at prices that are significantly lower than normal.

My Amazon Prime Day Indoor Gardening Deal Picks

To help separate the worthwhile discounts from the hundreds of mediocre offers, I've rounded up the Prime Day deals that stand out for indoor gardeners. Whether you're setting up your first grow space or upgrading an established collection, these are the products most deserving of a spot on your shortlist.

Every recommendation below has been selected with performance, value, and long-term reliability in mind. They're the kinds of products that can make indoor gardening easier, more productive, and ultimately more enjoyable long after Prime Day has ended.

Amazon Prime Day is one of the best times of the year to upgrade your indoor garden without overspending. After nearly 20 years of growing everything from seedlings and vegetables to tropical houseplants indoors, I've learned which tools are genuinely worth investing in – and Prime Day is often when those products see their biggest discounts.

Whether you're looking for full-spectrum grow lights, premium potting mixes, or smart growing accessories, these deals can help you build a healthier, more productive indoor garden for less. If something catches your eye, it's worth acting quickly, as the best Prime Day gardening deals often sell out before the event ends.

Moving houseplants outdoors for summer can be a huge change for them. Light levels outside, even in shade, run far higher than most indoor spots – and that difference shows up in growth rate, color, and in some cases flowering that never happens indoors. The catch is that not every plant considers the transition as an opportunity.

Good houseplant care is partly about reading what a plant actually needs rather than what seems intuitive. Some of the toughest-looking indoor plants are surprisingly fragile outside, and some of the fussier ones are waiting for exactly this.

Houseplants That Can Go Outside in June

These five plants can benefit from a summer outdoors – some dramatically, others more quietly.

1. Croton

The color is the reason to do this. Crotons kept indoors tend to stay green and a bit flat – the deep reds and burnt oranges only come in under strong direct sun, and June is when that's available. A spot with several hours of direct light per day will push the foliage into the best coloring the plant has produced, probably ever. Heat doesn't bother them; they're one of the few houseplants that genuinely thrives in conditions that stress everything around them. Bring them back inside before nights drop below 50F (10C).

2. Snake Plant

Snake plants are generally tolerant to changes outdoors in summer, and the extra light does something most people haven't seen from theirs indoors – it can trigger flowering. Small and fragrant on tall spikes, the blooms are rare enough that many longtime owners have never encountered them. Bright indirect light to partial sun is where they do best; direct afternoon sun in a hot climate risks bleaching the leaves, so a spot with some midday shelter is worth finding rather than assuming full sun is fine.

3. Fiddle Leaf Fig

Shelter is the condition that makes this work, not just light. Fiddle leaf figs want the humidity and higher light that summer offers, but a strong wind can tear the large leaves, and even a single cold draft can trigger drop. A covered porch or patio corner with bright indirect light is the right setup – not an open garden bed. The new leaves that come in over summer tend to be noticeably larger than anything produced indoors.

A heavy-duty plant caddy from Amazon helps move a large pot gradually rather than hauling it in one go, and transitioning it over a week or two beats going straight from a dim room to bright outdoor light.

4. Cacti and Succulents

Most cacti and succulents grown indoors are light-starved, even in a bright window – they just don't show it dramatically. Outside in June, that changes. Intense direct sun keeps growth compact and well-colored rather than the stretched, pale etiolation that develops indoors over time. Full sun is fine for most species. Watering frequency needs adjustment though; outdoor heat dries pots faster than expected, and these plants will take more moisture than the standard hands-off approach suggests when they're actively growing.

5. Boston Fern

Humidity is what Boston ferns want, and a shaded outdoor spot in June delivers it naturally. Hanging from a covered porch or pergola beam where air moves gently around the fronds, these plants put on growth through summer that indoor conditions rarely produce. Keep them out of direct sun – the fronds scorch quickly – and check moisture more often than usual since they dry out fast in warm air. The difference between a fern kept indoors all summer and one that spent it on a porch is significant.

Houseplants That Should Stay Inside

These five plants that tend to struggle outdoors, even in conditions that seem reasonably ideal.

1. African Violet

Water sitting on the fuzzy leaves of an African violet in direct sun causes damage – the cells overheat and the result is brown scorched patches that don't recover. Beyond the leaf issue, African violets are calibrated to stable indoor conditions: consistent temperature, indirect light, no drafts. Outdoor air introduces all three problems at once. They're not fragile plants in the right environment, but that environment is specifically indoors. Moving one outside for the summer is a reliable way to lose it.

2. Calathea

Calatheas are dramatic indoors about light and humidity; outside, those sensitivities get worse. Direct sun crisps the leaves within hours. Even a shift in outdoor humidity – dry afternoon, humid evening – can bring on curling and browning that takes weeks to show full recovery, if it does. Outdoor conditions rarely stay within the narrow range these plants need. The best place for a calathea in June is wherever it's been all year, undisturbed.

3. Phalaenopsis Orchid

The aerial roots of a Phalaenopsis dry out quickly in outdoor air, even in humidity that seems adequate. Direct sun burns the leaves fast – sometimes within a single afternoon. Stress from temperature swings between warm days and cool nights tends to show up weeks later as yellowing leaves or bud drop, by which point the damage is already done. These plants aren't as fragile as their reputation – but they're built for stable indoor light, and a bright kitchen or bathroom window is a better June situation than any outdoor spot.

4. Peace Lily

Peace lilies wilt noticeably when outdoor temperatures climb, and they don't bounce back the way a more tolerant plant would – they stay collapsed until conditions ease, which in June may not happen until evening. Stable and relatively cool is what they're adapted to. Direct sun burns the leaves; even bright outdoor shade can push more light than they're comfortable with. A small clip-on grow light from Walmart gives a peace lily the boost it needs indoors without the stress of moving it anywhere.

5. ZZ Plant

ZZ plants survive low indoor light through drought tolerance and slow metabolism – traits that don't translate into outdoor toughness. In direct sun the glossy leaves bleach to yellow fast. Temperature fluctuations outdoors can harm the rhizomes in ways that don't surface until the whole plant starts to go, by which point recovery is unlikely. It tolerates neglect indoors because the conditions stay consistent. Outside in June, that consistency disappears and so does the resilience.

A glass conservatory is an elegant addition to any home, but it’s not practical for most of us. The good news is you don’t need one to create a similar vibe: lush, elegant, rich, and maybe a little Mediterranean.

All you need are the right houseplants. From glossy foliage to exotic flowers, these summer-blooming beauties will help you create a relaxed conservatory feel in your everyday spaces.

Keep reading to see which are the perfect plants to create the vibe, and the necessary care for each one.

1. Peace Lily

When it comes to easy houseplant care, it’s hard to do better than a peace lily. But its forgiving nature is not the only reason peace lily is a popular houseplant. It has beautiful, large, deep green leaves that are complemented by elegant, trumpet-shaped flowers that bloom in summer.

You can find large peace lilies to tower over smaller plants, but also compact varieties perfect for plant stands and tabletops. Peace lilies are very forgiving, but they grow best with consistently moist soil and bright, indirect light. Let your peace lily get a little pot-bound, which it prefers, and don’t overfeed it. Find the perfect peace lily from Lively Root.

2. Calamondin Orange Tree

If there’s one type of plant that instantly creates the feeling of a sun-drenched European conservatory, it’s citrus. Calamondin orange (Citrus x microcarpa) is a perfect choice for your orangery. It’s small and compact and grows well in a large container. This orange has glossy, evergreen leaves, fragrant white flowers, and miniature fruits that stay on the branches for months.

Your calamondin orange needs bright, direct light, so place it by a south-facing window. There, it can act as a screen for your other plants that prefer indirect or dappled light. The soil in its container should drain very well and be slightly acidic, and remember that it’s better to under-water than over-water this tree. You can find a Calamondin orange tree on sale at Fast Growing Trees.

3. Cape Primrose

Cape primrose is a large genus of small flowering plants. The most well-known type is African violet, a timeless and popular houseplant. Native to warm, moist regions of the globe, cape primrose plants thrive in a conservatory-like environment and offer an abundance of colorful flowers, not just in summer but year-round.

African violets are pretty, but don’t limit yourself. Look for other types of cape primrose, including the many hybrids for a variety of sizes, leaf shapes, and flower colors. Give your plants bright but indirect light and keep the soil moist but not soggy or waterlogged. Use a flower-boosting fertilizer, this one from Miracle-Gro which can be found at Amazon, to encourage abundant blooms all year. Find a cape primrose hanging basket from Hirt's Gardens through Walmart.

4. Hibiscus

For the ultimate tropical feel in your makeshift conservatory, choose one or more hibiscus plants. This is a large group of varied plants, from perennials to shrubs to small trees. The flowers, which bloom in summer, are large and come in nearly every color.

Whichever type you pick, your hibiscus will thrive in a spot with full sun. Like a citrus tree, you place it by a bright window and let it filter light for other plants. Keep the soil in the pot consistently moist and use a bloom-boosting fertilizer throughout the summer. Hibiscus flowers only last a day or two, but with adequate nutrients, the plant will keep producing new flowers for months. Find a 'French Cabaret' red hibiscus shrub at the Home Depot.

5. Chenille Plant

Chenille means caterpillar in French, which perfectly describes this plant’s unique flowers. They’re long, fuzzy, red, and definitely resemble caterpillars. Native to the South Pacific, this is an excellent houseplant that can potentially grow six feet (1.8 m) tall. As a potted plant, it’s likely to stay smaller.

Chenille plant is fun, playful, and tropical, and adds both color and texture to contrast with other plants. It grows best in bright, direct light and with consistently moist soil that drains well. Use fertilizer regularly to support fast growth and plenty of year-round flowers. Place your chenille plant on a table or plant stand to allow its dramatic flowers to cascade. Find a cute and unique chenille plant from GardenGalsPlants nursery on Etsy.

6. Bird of Paradise

This is one of the most dramatic flowers you can find. The name describes the multicolored blooms that look like birds in flight. The striking flowers are set against the dark, glossy leaves that can be as big as 18 inches (46 cm). This combination will give any room a high-end, tropical conservatory feel.

Growing a bird of paradise for its gorgeous foliage isn’t difficult. Coaxing it to bloom indoors is a little trickier, but well worth the effort. The plant needs warmth, humidity, consistently moist but well-drained soil, and regular feeding during the growing season.

Your bird of paradise should mostly enjoy full, direct sunlight to encourage blooms; however, the leaves might suffer. The best balance is to provide some shade, for instance, from a sheer curtain you can pull across the window, during the brightest afternoon hours. Find a brilliant orange bird of paradise plant from Fast Growing Trees.

Creating an airy and elegant conservatory look is possible in any indoor space with the right conditions and carefully chosen plants. Use these and other striking tropical houseplants to create the perfect look and atmosphere.

For a long time, I assumed bonsai was the kind of hobby reserved for extremely patient people with tiny scissors, impossibly steady hands, and a level of inner calm I personally do not possess. When I stumbled across 5 stunning flowering bonsai trees that even beginners can grow, though, my mindset shifted.

Yes, traditional bonsai can sometimes look a little intimidating to beginners. Flowering varieties, though? Well, they make the effort feel worthwhile, as one minute you’ve got a miniature tree sitting on a windowsill, and the next it’s covered in tiny blooms like something from a fairy garden.

And guess what? Even though they have a very delicate appearance, there are actually a handful of flowering bonsai varieties that are actually surprisingly beginner-friendly. Many are adaptable, forgiving, and relatively easy to shape with a bit of basic care and patience, even! What could be better?

Flowering Bonsai Trees That Even Beginners Can Grow

If you’ve always loved the idea of bonsai but weren’t sure where to start, these are some of the prettiest flowering bonsai trees worth trying first.

You’re welcome!

1. Azalea Bonsai

If you want maximum flowers with classic bonsai tree beauty, azaleas are hard to beat. During bloom season, the entire tree can become covered in vibrant pink, red, white, or purple flowers, creating a spectacular display that feels wildly disproportionate to its tiny size.

Satsuki azaleas are especially popular for bonsai because of their compact growth and long flowering period. And, while they are beginner-friendly (so long as you learn a few basic pruning techniques), just be aware that they do need consistent watering and prefer slightly acidic soil.

Few bonsai trees look more impressive sitting on a patio table in spring, quite frankly.

2. Bougainvillea Bonsai

Bougainvillea may not be the first plant people associate with bonsai, but it creates one of the most striking flowering displays imaginable.

Its vivid magenta, orange, pink, or purple bracts spill dramatically across the miniature branches, giving the entire tree a bold Mediterranean feel. It also tolerates pruning remarkably well, which makes it easier to shape than many beginners expect.

In warmer USDA planting zones, bougainvillea bonsai can thrive outdoors for much of the year, while cooler regions can grow it seasonally with winter protection indoors. Either way, well worth picking up your very own Bougainvillea Bonsai from Indoor Bonsai And Exotics.

3. Fukien Tea Bonsai

Fukien tea bonsai has become hugely popular with beginners partly because it’s compact, attractive, and capable of flowering multiple times a year indoors.

Its tiny white flowers are delicate and understated, often followed by small dark berries that make the tree feel even more ornamental. The glossy green leaves also naturally stay small, which helps create that classic mature bonsai appearance without excessive work.

It prefers warmth and bright light, making it especially well suited to indoor growing in many US homes. Don't all charge the checkouts at once!

4. Crabapple Bonsai

There’s something undeniably magical about a crabapple bonsai in bloom. In spring, the branches become covered in soft pink or white blossoms that look exactly like a full-sized orchard tree in miniature form.

Many varieties also produce tiny ornamental fruits afterward, adding even more seasonal interest through summer and fall. And, better still, crabapple bonsai are generally considered relatively beginner-friendly because they adapt so very nicely to outdoor bonsai growing conditions across much of the US.

They also happen to look absolutely stunning (seriously stunning). You can buy a Crabapple Bonsai Seedling from CZ Grain.

5. Brazilian Rain Tree Bonsai

The Brazilian rain tree has become something of a favorite among beginner bonsai growers because it grows quickly, responds well to pruning, and develops beautiful twisted trunks over time.

Its fluffy cream-colored flowers add another layer of interest during the growing season, while the delicate foliage folds inward at night or during cloudy weather – something that makes the tree feel oddly alive and interactive.

It’s tropical, fast-growing, and much more forgiving than many traditional bonsai species, which is exactly why so many newcomers fall in love with it. Join them in their devoted worshipping, why don't you?

Shop Bonsai Containers:

One of the nicest things about flowering bonsai is that they look so beautiful, which means they soften the... the intensity that people often associate with growing these tiny trees.

Honestly, while every bonsai tree needs some level of patience and care, beginners often underestimate how achievable the hobby actually is once you start with the right plant. Sometimes all it takes is one tiny flowering tree on a windowsill before you suddenly find yourself emotionally invested in miniature gardening forever.

Happy growing...

Snake plants have a reputation for surviving neglect, and it’s well-earned. They tolerate low light, irregular watering, and general inattention better than almost any other houseplant. May is the exception, though – as temperatures climb and daylight extends, snake plants shift out of the slow winter mode they’ve been in for months. That shift is brief, and a few well-timed tasks catch it at the right moment.

Good snake plant care through May makes a noticeable difference going into summer. These tasks cover what actually matters this month.

1. Resume a Regular Watering Schedule

Through winter, snake plants drink very little water – watering too frequently when growth is minimal is one of the faster ways to rot the roots. May changes that. Active growth is resuming, the soil dries out more quickly as temperatures rise, and the plant can actually use what you give it. Every two to three weeks is about right for most homes, though the soil itself is the real guide.

Push a finger two inches (5cm) into the mix – if it’s still damp, wait. Snake plants rot from overwatering far more often than they suffer from drought, and that doesn’t change in May. When the soil is dry, water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom, then step back and don’t touch it again until the mix dries out. A deep soak followed by a genuine dry period is what they want, not small amounts on a schedule. If in doubt, a more reliable tool like this 4-in-1 moisture meter from Amazon can make things simpler.

2. Repot... If Necessary

May is a good time to repot a snake plant if it’s due – active growth means it settles into new soil faster than a winter repot would. Root tips visible at the surface, anything pushing out of the drainage holes, a pot that rocks or tips when touched – any of those is a signal. Plants that have been sitting in the same container for three years or more are also due for a look, even if nothing is obviously telling you something’s wrong.

Go up only one pot size – snake plants do better in slightly snug containers and too much extra soil around the roots holds moisture longer than they like. A well-draining mix is important here; a cacti and succulent mix, or regular potting mix with added perlite, gives the drainage these plants need. Perlite from Amazon mixed into standard potting soil at roughly one part perlite to three parts mix is a reliable formula that improves drainage without sacrificing too much moisture retention for a repot.

3. Give It a Light Feed

Snake plant fertilizer needs are few – one light application of balanced liquid fertilizer in May takes advantage of the growth window without pushing the soft, weak growth that overfeeding can produce. Salt buildup, brown leaf tips, and stressed roots are the typical results of too much fertilizer, not too little. Once or twice through the growing season is enough for most plants.

Half the recommended strength is the right dilution – full strength stresses the roots more than it helps. The soil should already be slightly moist when you apply it; fertilizer going into dry soil is more likely to burn. If the plant was recently repotted, skip this entirely – fresh mix has enough in it to carry the plant through the first season without any help.

4. Move It to Brighter Light

Snake plants tolerate low light, but they’re not indifferent to it – growth is slower in a dim corner and the leaves can lose some of their crispness over time. May is a natural point to reconsider where the plant is sitting. Moving it closer to a window, or outside to a sheltered shaded spot once the weather is reliable, tends to produce noticeably more upright, vigorous growth through the rest of summer.

Sudden, direct midday sun scorches the leaves, indoors or out, so bright indirect light is the target. East-facing windows work well; north-facing is fine if it’s a big window. Outside, wait until night temperatures are reliably above 50F (10C) and start with a shaded spot rather than anywhere that gets full afternoon exposure. Acclimate gradually over a couple of weeks – a few hours of gentle morning light first, more as the plant adjusts.

5. Take Cuttings or Divide

May is a good window for propagating snake plants – cuttings root and divisions establish faster now than they would in cooler months. Division is the more reliable method and keeps any variegation intact: unpot the plant, separate the rhizomes by pulling or cutting them apart, pot each section into fresh mix. A couple of healthy leaves and some root attached is enough for each piece to get going, and they can reach full size by the end of summer.

Leaf cuttings work too, though they take longer and any variegated patterning won’t carry through to the new plant – divisions are the way to go if keeping the look matters.

For cuttings, slice a healthy leaf into three to four inch (7–10cm) sections, let the cut ends callous for a day, then push them into moist propagation mix the same way up they grew. Upside-down cuttings won’t root. Roots form in roughly four to six weeks in May’s warmth. A small propagation tray from Amazon keeps humidity around the cuttings without waterlogging them.

Swiss cheese plant, also known as monstera, is a tropical vine native to Central America. It’s also a popular houseplant because of its striking, large leaves dotted with holes, like a slice of Swiss cheese. It’s not difficult to grow, but to keep your monstera happy and healthy, it does need some specific care.

Monstera care in May is particularly important because this is the time of year when active growth really takes off. Performing these simple tasks now encourages stronger growth and bigger, more dramatic leaves, and more fenestration (holes).

1. Provide More Light

Swiss cheese plant grows in dappled sunlight under the jungle canopy in its native range. This means it grows best indoors with filtered or indirect light. Your plant will benefit from increasing the light it gets just a little as the growing season takes off to encourage stronger stems and bigger, more hole-filled leaves.

Even plants like monstera can struggle in the low light of winter. Some signs it might need more light include small leaves, leggy and weak stems, and minimal fenestration.

Ease your monstera into more light by placing it in a sunnier spot for an hour at a time for a few days and then increasing light exposure over a couple of weeks. Good locations include an east-facing window for morning light and afternoon shade and a south-facing window with something to filter the bright light, like a sheer curtain or taller houseplant. Even a low-cost sheer curtain panel from Amazon can filter out enough light to create the perfect environment for your monstera.

2. Increase Watering

Just as your plant benefits from more sunlight for the active growing season, it also needs more water to support that new growth. Higher temperatures also mean your plant will use more water. Instead of using a strict schedule, check the soil every few days. If the top inch or two (up to 5 cm) is dry, it’s time to water.

Overwatering is a typical issue with monstera, so it’s important to find the right balance. Yellowing leaves can be a sign of overwatering. If you’re not sure that’s the issue, gently pull the plant out of the pot to check the roots. If they’re soggy or rotting, you’re overwatering or the pot isn’t draining adequately. Make sure the container has drainage holes and that water can run through.

3. Prune and Tidy

Swiss cheese plants will look tidier and be in a good position for new growth if you clean up any damaged and old winter growth. Look for yellowing leaves, broken stems, weak and thin stems, and dead foliage close to the soil line. Use a clean and sharp pair of shears or scissors to snip these off. This will not only make your plant look neater, but it also improves air flow and encourages more new growth.

Another important tidying task for May is cleaning the leaves. Recirculated winter air moves a lot of dust around the house, and some of it settles on the big leaves of your monstera. Use a damp, soft cloth to wipe down all the leaves, so they can better access light for photosynthesis and energy storage.

4. Repot if Needed

If your monstera needs a bigger pot, now is a good time to make the switch. It will recover better from the transition as it moves into its growing season. Your plant might be getting overly rootbound if water drains very quickly through the soil, roots are poking out of the drainage holes, or you’re seeing stunted or minimal growth.

Choose a new pot that is only one size up from the previous container. It should be just an inch or two (2.5 cm to 5.0 cm) wider at the top. Repotting is a good opportunity to freshen up the soil, too. Add fresh potting mix or replace it completely. You can use standard potting mix, but drainage is very important for a Swiss cheese plant. You can even use an orchid mix. Rosy Soil's aroid potting mix, available from Amazon, has biochar and active microbes for healthier plants.

5. Start Feeding

Active growth season means your monstera will be using more nutrients. Now is the time to start feeding it and to establish a feeding routine for the summer. Adequate nutrients ensure strong growth and bigger, greener leaves.

Use a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer every two to four weeks. Follow the instructions on the product and then dilute the mix by half. Overfertilizing is a risk, so using the product at half strength is safest. Miracle-Gro's tropical plant food, available on Amazon, is a good option and comes in a pump bottle for easy application.

6. Provide Support

Monstera vines need physical support. In the wild, they send out aerial roots to climb trees. As growth starts to speed up in May, the new vines will start flopping if you don’t provide something for them to cling to and climb. If you already have support in place, this is a good time to extend it.

A moss pole is a popular option, but you can also use a small trellis or a pole covered in coco coir. Providing support encourages more upright growth and will lead to larger, more dramatic foliage. To make sure your plant grows where you want it to, loosely tie the growing vines to the pole or trellis using twine. You can find an extendable moss pole from Amazon to support your monstera as it grows.

May is when your Swiss cheese plant shifts into active growth mode, which means it’s the perfect time for a seasonal refresh. A little extra care now will reward you later with better growth and healthy, well-fenestrated leaves.

For most of my adult life, I’ve been squeezing more and more houseplants into tiny apartments or modest urban balconies, so I understand the pain of small space growing. That said, I also think restricted space can be a wonderful opportunity to get creative. If your coffee table is hidden under a menagerie of propagation jars, and your plant stands are groaning under the weight of your latest new best friends, then it’s time to think laterally – by which I mean vertically.

When floor space becomes a luxury commodity, the only logical direction to move in is up. Hanging baskets have long been the default for houseplant combinations in an overcrowded room, but many of us have high ceilings, and these containers can sway in drafts. Enter the wall mounted planter: a structurally sound, visually dynamic alternative that treats your greenery like fine art. Wall mounted plants allow you to curate beautiful backdrops where foliage can contrast with paint or wallpaper. It’s an approach that works well for beginners and seasoned growers alike.

For novices, a wall mount provides a secure level that keeps vines away from curious pets and vacuum cleaners. It also allows you to get up close and personal with your green companions at eye level, so it’s easier to spot dry soil or early pest issues. From structural specimens to soft, tumbling shapes, shifting your focus upwards will redefine how you display your indoor jungle. So, let’s grow vertical…

Why Use Wall Mounts for Plants

The pressures of modern urban living mean many of us are growing indoor jungles in the cozy footprints of flats, studios, and apartments. In these compact settings, every square inch of floor space must earn its keep. Cluttering walkways with bulky pots not only restricts your living area, but it can also cast plants into neglected corners below the window line. By wall mounting plants, you reclaim that valuable floor space and boost the light opportunities many plants need to thrive.

Beyond the logistics, certain houseplants look stunning on a vertical stage. Think about the natural habitats of the heart-leaf philodendron, variegated pothos, or delicate string of pearls. In the wild, these species are climbers and cascade down rock faces or tree trunks. When stuck on a flat table, vines bunch up, lose light exposure, and get leggy. A wall mount planter provides the perfect basis for trailing beauties to do their thing and do it beautifully. It highlights natural forms, encourages larger leaf growth, and turns a blank wall into an organic masterpiece.

1. Small Space Wall Mount Options

If you are trying vertical gardening for the first time, then happy days – you don't need to dive into complex installations or spend a fortune. The key to success is keeping things low-effort and budget-friendly. For smaller plant pots, you can play it safe and simple with wall mounted rings, such as the Achla Designs Wrought Iron Wall Mount Flower Pot Ring Brckets from Amazon. These give a rigid collar into which you can slide small pots, so are great for vertical gardening newbies. You can also get ceramic pockets that hang from walls as if by magic and add a cool artisanal flourish. Try ClayandBirchPottery’s Handmade Ceramic Wall Pocket Planter from Etsy.

My favorites focus on small-scale mounts that hold pots securely with minimal fuss. They are perfect for renters or those who like to rearrange plants as seasons change and light patterns shift. For these mounts, choose lightweight and resilient plants, like silver satin pothos, structural snake plants, or slow-growing peperomias. These mounts make watering so simple. You can pluck a plant from its wall ring or shelf without disturbing the wall hardware. Try grouping mounts in staggered clusters of 3 at varying heights to create a dynamic visual focal point.

Shop Small Wall Mounts

Wall mounts for a small vertical display have to balance lightness, spatial efficiency, and water management. The best individual mounts provide a secure anchor point for walls without casting a heavy shadow, letting your greenery do most of the talking. They also need to offer easy accessibility; because smaller pots can dry out quickly. From breezy textures to clean lines, this curated trio creates a pretty elevated stage.

2. Larger Vertical Wall Systems

If you’re feeling a little braver or bolder, try a larger or more elaborate wall system. These options are great if you want to graduate from single potted displays to full-scale living art installations. While they require a bit more planning, the payoff is a lush, vibrant focal point. These frameworks and living wall systems service a diverse community of plants exceptionally well, and make spectacular hosts for moisture-loving tropicals such as bird’s nest ferns, calatheas, or arrowhead vines.

Because these setups feature interconnected pockets or modular wooden structures, they mimic the layered microclimates of a forest canopy. Some use breathable canvas fabrics to air-prune roots or waterproof vinyl backings that form a shield, while others use lattices for modular s-hooks. You can lift self-watering vessels free for mess-free maintenance. It’s the ultimate living mural right in your living room. Just remember positioning is everything. Make sure your wall mounter plant hanger sits in strong, ambient indirect light, and double-check the structural integrity of studs before they have have to house heavy, freshly watered soil.

Shop Larger Vertical Systems

These vertical units are all about smart hydration, robust strength, and thoughtful design. These expansive setups aim to service plants in style and comfort, with leakproof backings, intelligent drainage, or breathing gaps to keep ambient air circulating around the roots. They take different structural approaches, but together they provide a highly supportive playground for moisture-loving tropicals and succulents, for plush living tapestries that look good from every corner of the room.

Make the Most of a Vertical Garden

Maintaining a flourishing vertical garden needs a slight shift from tabletop plant care, particularly for watering and structural maintenance. Wall-mounted plants are exposed to warmer ambient air, which can cause soil to dry out faster. Check soil moisture every few days, using a long-reach step stool or a lightweight watering can with a narrow, targeted spout. For small mounts, you can remove pots and give them a drink in your basin. For larger wall systems, you might prefer a pressure sprayer with an extension wand. If you need an extension wand, you can get the Expert Gardener 38-Inch Telescoping Watering Wand from Walmart, allowing your arms to reach the upper canopies while your feet stay firmly on the floor.

Regularly trim any yellowing or dead foliage at the crown to promote optimal airflow between tightly grouped plants, which helps ward off fungal issues. For fast-growing trailing vines, a timely prune encourages lateral branching, resulting in bushier growth. It’s worth doing some quick structural safety checks every month or so. Gently wiggle the brackets and frames, and keep an eye on structural integrity as plants grow. It’s worth investing in a spirit level or measuring tool, like the Amazon Basics 9-Inch Magnetic Torpedo Level and Ruler, to check your vertical garden stays balanced and anchored properly. Have fun raising your growing game!

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For the last few months, you may well have been glancing at your fiddle leaf fig (Ficus lyrata), hoping it managed to make it through the dry, dark indoor months. Now we’ve made it to the other side, your prized ficus is probably going to be a little dusty, weary and limp. Take heart! These gorgeous tropical giants wake up with a dramatic burst of energy in May, which makes it a lovely time to give your plant a little TLC.

Right now, your fig is begging for a spring refresh to help it develop fresh growth. That said, it is a creature of habit that loathes swift transitions. Because it is sensitive to environmental shifts, ignoring its needs at the start of the growing season is the fastest route to a sad display of dropping leaves. Now is a time for smart fiddle leaf fig care. Leaving it trapped in compacted winter soil or suffocating under a thick layer of dust risks sabotaging all that summer potential. So whatever you do, don’t let this vital window of active growth slip away.

Fiddle leaf fig care in May doesn't require hours of labor. In fact, giving your fiddle leaf fig what it craves is very straightforward and (dare I say?) a lot of fun. These simple steps can help you treat your plant both above and below soil level in clear, quick stages. So, let’s dive into the essential fiddle leaf fig care tips that will keep your leafy favorite happy, healthy, and stunningly vibrant all summer long.

Why May Matters for Fiddle Leaf Figs

After months of stagnant air and close confinement, your fiddle leaf fig is likely suffering from a bit of a winter hangover. Stuck with dry, artificial heating and miserable light levels for extended periods, many fig plants in living rooms and other interior spaces will enter spring feeling cranky. You might notice a few lower leaves yellowing, or the top growth looking limp. But in May, there is a surge in ambient room temperature and longer, high-quality daylight, which triggers an awakening, signaling to the plant that it is time to break dormancy and start building new tissue.

Because this shift happens so rapidly, fiddle leaf fig plant care in May is all about managing the transition smoothly. If you live in a warm southern USDA zone (10-11) where nighttime temperatures are holding above 55°F (13°C), you can harden off your fig to spend summer on a shaded patio. For those of us in cooler climates, figs will remain indoors. But whether you’re managing a huge fiddle leaf fig tree or a petite 'Bambino' variety, the basic needs are the same. They are all breaking out of survival mode and need a gentle hand to navigate this sudden spring growth spurt.

Before starting our steps, just run a quick health check. It’s wise to check moisture levels and inspect the undersides of the leaves for hidden winter pests. That way, you ensure you don’t stress a vulnerable root system or wave through a spider mite infestation. Take the guesswork out of soil health with a simple diagnostic tool, like the Sonkir 3-in-1 Soil Moisture and Light Meter from Amazon, to assess soil moisture levels ahead of these May plant refreshers.

Treat May as the seasonal wellness window that lets you quickly carry out some very easy (but very important) fiddle leaf fig tree care. You can buy powerful magnifying glasses and loupes, like the TekcoPlus 10x Foldable Pocket Loupe from Amazon, to inspect leaves up close to see what might be hitching a ride on the leaves. This helps you to catch problems early, so you can safely start these easy care steps.

1. The Deep Dust-Off and Spring Shower

Chances are there’s a thick, dull layer of household grime on your fiddle leaf fig’s leaves. If left, that accumulated dust will block out sunlight, choking the pores the plant uses to breathe and drastically reducing its ability to photosynthesize. This will lead to stalled spring growth, pale foliage, and spider mites that thrive in dust. This first May job is all about spring cleaning, and it’s both simple and satisfying. Just this one timely act of houseplant care will dramatically amplify energy levels, so your plant can maximize every single ray of that glorious, intensifying May sunlight.

It all comes down to careful handling. If you are managing a compact, dwarf or young fig, carry it to the bathroom for a lukewarm shower. Just wrap a plastic bag around the base of the pot to prevent soil washing away or waterlogging the roots. For massive or multi-stemmed houseplant trees, go for a hands-on sponge bath. Use lukewarm, filtered water and support the underside of each leaf with one hand while gently wiping the top with a soft microfiber cloth. Don't use harsh dish soaps or rub aggressively, as you can scar tender leaf cuticles. Do this early in the morning, so any water drops have time to evaporate, eliminating the risk of fungal leaf spots.

While a basic damp cloth is fine, some targeted pest-prevention adds a level of added squeaky clean care. If you suspect there might be winter pests lingering along leaf veins, replacing plain water with an organic neem oil wash. Use a neem oil spray like Captain Jack's Ready-to-Use Neem Oil Spray from Lowe’s to act as a highly effective cleaner, insecticide, and fungicide all at once. This ensures that those newly cleaned leaves are protected against the dry indoor air of the coming summer months, whether or not you subsequently move your fiddle leaf fig outside.

2. The Spring Awakening Feed

Once your indoor figgy’s leaves are clean, May is the time to reinstate a regular fertilizing routine to help your plant push out that heavy flush of new growth. To sustain those massive leaves, the plant requires plenty of fuel. This needs to be a nitrogen-rich formula, with a 3-1-2 NPK ratio. If you don't feed it now, any new spring leaves will emerge stunted, pale, and paper-thin. Worse, your hungry plant will begin cannibalizing its own lower foliage nutrients, causing old leaves to turn yellow and drop. Feeding now rewards you with robust foliage that can support its own weight.

This high-impact task takes only a few minutes of your time. Just make sure the soil is thoroughly damp before applying any liquid fertilizer, or else you risk scorching the delicate root hairs. Don't over-fertilize your indoor plants in a misguided attempt to force faster growth. Always feed your fig in the early morning, when its roots are actively absorbing moisture, and ensure it sits in a spot with bright, indirect sunlight so it can instantly convert those minerals into pure growing energy. Use a special 3-1-2 NPK formula like Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant Food (3-1-2 NPK Ratio) from Walmart every couple of weeks through summer to keep foliage strong and resilient.

While liquid concentrates mixed into a watering can are great for precision feeding, you can also buy slow-release organic spikes like Jobe’s Organics Houseplant Fertilizer Spikes from Amazon. These are helpful if you are worried about being forgetful as spring rushes towards summer and other plants start demanding more of your attention. These spikes keep your plant nourished for 6-8 weeks, and are great for established indoor trees. Whichever method you choose, feed and hydrate regularly through spring so your fiddle leaf fig has the structural integrity and deep-tissue health it needs to thrive all summer long.

3. The Root Check and Repot

Your fiddle leaf fig’s long-term vitality relies on a healthy root system. Over the course of a year, these tall plants can easily outgrow their containers. If your fig has roots circling tightly around the bottom of the pot or poking out of the drainage holes, or if water seems to run straight through the soil without absorbing, it is probably root-bound. Ignoring this issue will result in compressed, stunted growth and chronic leaf drop. May is the safest time to repot your plant, because the roots can heal and establish in fresh soil with astonishing speed, mitigating any risk of transplant shock and giving the plant the room it needs to burgeon in size and glossy goodness.

The key to repotting your fiddle leaf fig plant successfully comes down to support and leverage. Enlist a helper if your fig is over 4 feet (1.2m) tall, and gently lay the pot on its side on some tarp. You can also use a fold-up planting mat, like the Fiskars Repotting Mat from Amazon, to keep things super-tidy with its handy raised edges. Slide the root ball out horizontally rather than pulling violently on the main trunk. Use your fingers to gently massage and loosen tightly bound outer roots. Aim for a new container that is 2 inches (5cm) larger in diameter and which has drain holes. Repot during a mild and overcast afternoon. Return the plant to its original spot, so it doesn't have to adjust to new light levels while healing its roots.

Where a full pot upgrade is physically impossible, top-dressing serves as a brilliant, minimal-needs alternative. Simply scrape away the top 2-3 inches (5-8cm) of old, exhausted winter soil and replace it with a rich, fast-draining tropical potting mix to deliver a fresh wave of organic matter to the upper root zone. For a chunky, airy potting mix, the Perfect Plants Fiddle Leaf Fig Soil blend from Amazon stays loose and oxygenated. Alternatively, grab some Miracle-Gro Tropical Potting Mix, also available from Amazon, for optimal drainage and structural integrity. This 3-step rejuvenation will give your figgy friend the structural anchor and hydration balance required to stand proud, beautiful, and vibrant all summer long.

Shop Fiddle Leaf Fig Essentials

Giving your fiddle leaf fig the star treatment this spring deserves some key care essentials to supplement plant health with vital organic nutrients, tonics, and leaf health. This curated trio of fiddle leaf fig treats will help you nurture your favorite green giant toward a summer of spectacular growth and vibrant, bushy leaves.

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Air plants (Tillandsia) are those cute little spiky, rootless plants that absorb moisture from the air instead of soil. They are perfect for placing in steamy bathrooms and are easy going houseplants. But what do you do with them? Houseplants are stylish in their decorative pots, but what type of air plant holder exists?

If you are like me, you love air plants and pick them up whenever you see them in a store, but then they just get added to a jumbled pile when you get home. I never really know where to put them or how to display them.

Worry no more! I have taken the time to curate a list of the best air plant holders from around the internet. It’s time to show them off properly and stop relegating them to a random pile next to your other houseplants.

There you have it. Your air plants will never have to sit in a pile again. There are so many great options for air plant holders that will elevate your room, no matter your decor style!

Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) is an enduring favorite among houseplants for many reasons. It has a unique look, with its long, arching bi-colored leaves and adorable little plantlets (also known as spiderettes). It’s also very easy to grow, even for beginners.

Although generally low-maintenance, spider plants do benefit from some care. Thoughtful spider plant care in May is important because this is when the active growing season begins. Your spider plant is about to start putting out new growth, and even pups, and good support will ensure that the growth is vigorous and healthy.

1. Clean Up Your Plant with a Light Trim

Most plants can benefit from occasional pruning, and a spider plant is no exception. Although they don’t need much maintenance, a light prune now or in spring will encourage new growth, manage size, and improve the plant's overall appearance.

Use sharp, clean shears or scissors to prune spider plant leaves that are damaged or have yellowed or developed crispy brown tips. You can also trim off or shorten long runners to keep your plant a smaller size and to give it a tidier appearance.

2. Increase Watering Frequency

One of the factors that makes growing a spider plant so easy is that it tolerates a decent amount of neglect. If you forget to water it, it will bounce back pretty readily once you do. Still, it’s best to water your plant regularly to keep it healthy.

As active growth begins this May, prepare to up the watering frequency a little. Your plant needs more water now to support new growth and plantlets. As temperatures rise, the soil in the pot will also dry out more quickly.

Water your spider plant whenever you can feel with your finger that the top inch or two of soil is dry. Water thoroughly, letting excess moisture drain out of the bottom of the pot. Ideally, water your plant with distilled water or rainwater, as chemicals in tap water can cause the tips of the leaves to brown.

3. Start a Summer Fertilizing Routine

As with water, your spider plant needs more nutrients as it enters the active growing season. To support healthy, attractive new foliage, start a routine now for regular spider plant fertilizing. Plan to keep feeding your spider plant every two to four weeks throughout the growing season.

Choose a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer, like this one from Amazon. Follow instructions on the fertilizer, but also take care not to feed too much. Spider plants need less feeding than some other houseplants, and over-fertilizing can cause leaf tip burn.

4. Repot if Needed

Your spider plant might not need repotting every year. In fact, it will do best when slightly rootbound. Some signs that you need to repot a spider plant include roots growing out of drainage holes or over the top of the soil, compacted soil, and soil that dries out very quickly.

Choose a new container that is one to two inches (2.5 to 5.0 cm) larger than the current pot. Since spider plants like to be a little rootbound, don’t go too big with the container. Get fresh soil for the new pot. A light potting mix that drains well is best.

5. Propagate Plantlets

One of the most fun aspects of growing spider plants is the appearance of little plantlets. These offspring look just like baby spider plants, and they spring up quite readily, making spider plant propagation easy. Also known as pups, babies, or spiderettes, plantlets will begin to grow in earnest this time of year, especially if you’re supporting the parent plant with good care.

Removing plantlets now will help you get new plants through propagation, but it also makes the parent healthier by redirecting energy back to the main plant. If you don’t need new plants, simply snip off the babies.

If you do want to propagate them, look for plantlets that have already developed some roots. Snip them off the main plant, keeping their roots intact. You can repot the plantlet in a small container with potting mix. You can also put the plantlet in water and let the roots grow more before potting.

6. Check for Pests

Spider plants are usually healthy and disease-free, but like any houseplant, they are susceptible to pests. Spider mites, aphids, and mealybugs are typical pests you might see on a spider plant in your home. May is a good time to get ahead of and manage any infestations before they become severe.

The presence of pests might be obvious if you can see them, but there are also subtle signs of an early issue: webbing on leaves, a sticky residue, and speckled or distorted leaves. If you catch pests early, you can usually manage them by giving your plant’s leaves a good rinse in a sink or outside. If this isn’t enough to get rid of them, use a natural product like neem oil to kill pests.

May kicks off the growing season for spider plants, making care now essential for future growth. Taking these small, simple care steps now will lead to full, healthy growth later and all season long.

Spider Plant Care Essentials

If you love houseplants, why not grow some that can do double duty? Many houseplants are tropical natives, which means they thrive outdoors once the weather is warm and steamy. Give these houseplants a summer vacation by using them to stage a front porch with excellent curb appeal and bring them back indoors for winter.

I don’t know about you, but I think houseplant care feels easier when it’s done outdoors! A quick spritz with the hose to water them and they thrive in the warm, breezy air through the summer. My plants always look fuller and healthier after their annual summer vacation to the porch. Then bring them indoors to brighten your home as the weather cools.

Let's dig in and explore which houseplants will make your porch pop this summer!

1. Pothos

When it comes to houseplant care, few are easier than pothos (Epipremnum aureum), a forgiving plant that even beginners will find hard to kill. Pothos is a tropical vine that you can train to climb a vertical surface or allow to spill from a hanging pot. It grows fast and comes in several varieties, with foliage in all shades of green, yellow, white, and variegation.

Outside on your porch, pothos is an ideal choice for a hanging basket. The vines will grow vigorously in the summer heat and humidity, and with bright, indirect light. Pothos is also easy to transition back inside. Just be sure to trim it back a little if it grows too large over the summer. We love the Modern Sprout pruning snips, available from Amazon, for houseplant pruning jobs.

2. Snake Plant

Snake plant is another example of an easy, popular houseplant that tolerates neglect, poor light conditions, and even dry, poor soil. Dracaena trifasciata is a tropical native with spiky leaves that grow up to five feet (1.5 m) tall when container-grown.

Snake plants make striking porch plants with their tall, lance-shaped leaves. They are also ideal for the porch because they grow best in indirect light. Pair them with some trailing plants or bright flowers for contrast. Like pothos, snake plant tolerates change well and will transition easily back inside for winter.

3. Spider Plant

Spider plant is a classic, popular houseplant known for its graceful, arching leaves and “babies” that make propagating so easy. Spider plant is Chlorophytum comosum, a tropical native that prefers warmth, humidity, and indirect light but that will tolerate poor conditions and even some neglect.

While very popular indoors, spider plants thrive and brighten up porches in summer. They can be placed on tables or used in hanging pots. They’ll appreciate the fresh air and summer weather and reward you with quick growth and plenty of baby plantlets that you can snip off and repot. They’ll readily transition back inside once temperatures drop again.

4. Anthurium

Many porch plants are flowering annuals that don’t transition well indoors. Anthurium is an example of a flowering houseplant that can be put outside for summer and successfully brought back in for winter. Anthurium spp. are also known as flamingo flowers for their unique, large, and bright spathes that surround the flower spikes.

Anthurium can be coaxed into blooming year-round, so you can enjoy its colorful blooms inside and out. In summer, it will thrive in a shady spot when the air is warm and humid. Place a striking anthurium on a side table or patio dining table, either alone or with smaller foliage plants. You can even make them into kokedama so you can hang them for a unique look! You can find sheets of moss on Amazon if you're looking to get into the art of kokedama.

5. Peace Lily

Another flowering houseplant you can put outside in summer is the popular peace lily. Like so many houseplants on this list, peace lily (Spathiphyllum spp.) is a tropical plant that thrives with indirect light, warmth, and moist soil, but will bounce right back if you neglect it for a while.

Peace lilies can grow very large, so they make striking porch plants. The summer weather conditions will stimulate more growth and additional flowers. Place them under a shaded porch or covered patio and pair with ferns or smaller flowering plants.

6. New Guinea Impatiens

Often grown as summer annuals outside, you can transition these impatiens indoors and ensure they keep blooming with the right care. Impatiens hawkeri blooms reliably outside in humid, warm conditions from spring all the way through fall’s first frost. Indoors, you can keep the blooms going if you’re able to give the plants adequate bright light from a window or grow light. I like the Barrina T5 grow lights from Amazon for their ease of use and longevity.

Outdoors in summer, the bright and abundant flowers of New Guinea impatiens bring cheer and color to porches and front doors. They also work well in hanging pots and mixed containers with other flowers or foliage plants.

7. Boston Fern

Finally, Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata) is a classic and well-loved porch plant. Its dense growth of feathery fronds makes the Boston fern an attractive hanging or table plant for a porch or patio. It thrives in the heat and humidity of summer and will grow rapidly.

Many people grow Boston ferns as summer annuals because they require a little extra care to be transitioned successfully indoors. Dry air inside in winter is the primary issue. Bring your Boston fern inside to a spot with bright but indirect light and use a pebble tray or mist it regularly to keep humidity levels up. Keep an eye on the humidity levels in your home with a combination hygrometer and thermometer from Amazon. I use them throughout my house to maintain proper humidity levels.

Get more mileage out of your potted plants with these versatile options that can grow indoors and out. Spruce up your summer porch with these unique, striking, and gorgeous houseplants.

Shop Patio Essentials

There are two kinds of people in this world: people who insist astrology is nonsense… and people who quietly check their horoscope every morning just in case.

You know the ritual: coffee in hand, scrolling straight to your zodiac sign before anything else, hoping the universe might casually explain why the week feels chaotic (it's always better when you can blame Mercury in retrograde), why an ex has suddenly resurfaced, or whether today is finally the day everything starts falling into place.

And while astrology may not be an exact science, people have always loved the idea that our personalities leave clues about the things we’re naturally drawn to – including, apparently, our houseplants.

The Zodiac Houseplants

It's not enough that our favorite houseplants improve air quality, solve humidity and mold problems, boost moods, and can even sharpen focus. And it's not enough, either, that some houseplants are virtually unkillable. We want, crave, need meaning (which is likely why we all love our birth month houseplants so much), and zodiac houseplants is the best and easiest way to do this.

So whether someone is a devoted horoscope reader, a casual zodiac skeptic, or simply trying to choose an indoor plant that actually survives longer than six weeks, here’s the houseplant that best matches every zodiac sign – and what it might quietly reveal about the person growing it.

One Important Thing to Note:

Before anyone emails, please note that this roundup is sticking to the classic zodiac signs rather than including Ophiuchus – aka the mysterious “13th sign” that caused mild internet chaos a few years ago.

Traditionally associated with healers and seekers, Ophiuchus (November 29-December 18) is often described as sharing many characteristics with Sagittarius anyway. So anyone who strongly identifies with it should probably just buy a dramatic humidity-loving houseplant, stick it in their bathroom, and carry on.

Aries – Snake Plant

Aries tends to prefer things that are straightforward, resilient, and not especially interested in drama. Enter, then, the snake plant.

The snake plant is the definition of low-maintenance confidence. It doesn’t need constant watering, tolerates chaos remarkably well, and still somehow manages to look sharp in every setting.

Like many Aries personalities, snake plants thrive under pressure and get slightly bored if life becomes too predictable. Bag yourself a Laurentii Snake Plant from Walmart, then, stat.

Taurus – Rubber Plant

Taurus signs are famously drawn to comfort, stability, and homes that feel calm and grounded. The rubber plant, then, is their perfect zodiac houseplant, as it reflects that energy perfectly.

With its glossy leaves and slow, steady growth habit, Ficus elastica feels elegant without trying too hard. It values consistency, appreciates good light, and quietly improves a room over time.

It's all very luxurious, basically, which feels... well, it feels very Taurus.

Gemini – Pothos

Geminis tend to adapt quickly, change direction often, and somehow juggle several things at once – just like a pothos.

Think about it; pothos trails, climbs, spills, hangs, or winds around shelves depending on where it ends up, growing quickly and forgiving mistakes along the way.

It’s flexible, sociable, and just chaotic enough to stay interesting. Something like the Golden Pothos Easy Care Houseplant by Altman Plants should fit your busy Gemini lifestyle perfectly.

Cancer – Peace Lily

Cancers notice everything – moods, atmosphere, tiny emotional shifts, questionable text messages. And yes, you'd best believe that peace lilies are the ultimate zodiac houseplant for this sign, as they mirror that sensitivity beautifully.

Honestly, the peace lily visibly droops when it needs water before recovering dramatically once cared for, making it one of the most emotionally transparent houseplants around.

Sensitive, nurturing, and quietly expressive, it’s an almost perfect Cancer match. You can find plenty of stunning peace lilies from Costa Farms on Amazon, if you’re interested.

Houseplant Shopping Essentials:

Leo – Fiddle Leaf Fig

Leos rarely enjoy blending into the background – and neither does the fiddle leaf fig.

Bold, sculptural, and impossible to ignore, this plant instantly becomes the focal point of a room. When it’s thriving, it looks spectacular. When it’s struggling, it somehow still manages to command attention.

Like most Leos, fiddle leaf figs (like this one from Costa Farms) require confidence, consistency, and occasionally a little negotiation. But when treated well, they will absolutely reward the effort with undeniable presence, making them well worth the TLC you pour into them. Trust us.

Virgo – Spider Plant

Virgos tend to appreciate systems, reliability, and things that quietly do their job properly, all of which makes the spider plant an almost suspiciously perfect match.

Efficient, tidy, and endlessly productive, this zodiac houseplant produces baby plants without fuss and keeps its neat shape with minimal intervention. It’s organised, dependable, and oddly satisfying in its consistency.

Pure Virgo energy, right? Make life easier and pick up a Live Spider Plant in 4” White Decorative Pot with Saucer from Walmart, stat.

Libra – Calathea

Libras are drawn to beauty, balance, and spaces that feel visually harmonious. Naturally, then, their zodiac houseplant is one of the most aesthetically pleasing options available.

Calathea is famous for its intricate leaf patterns and elegant movement throughout the day, subtly shifting with the light around it. It’s beautiful, expressive, and occasionally a little fussy about conditions.

In other words: extremely Libra. Treat yourself to a Element Calathea Medallion Live Plant from Walmart and enjoy.

Scorpio – ZZ Plant

Scorpios are famously difficult to read – which is perhaps why the ZZ plant suits them so well.

Slow-growing, resilient, and almost unnervingly self-sufficient, the Zamioculcas zamiifolia thrives in low light, forgetful care, and long stretches of benign neglect while still looking polished and intentional.

Basically, this zodiac houseplant doesn’t demand attention; it simply survives quietly, pours a lot of love into the world, and looks seriously mysterious doing it, regardless of whether you bother it or not. And you can up the mystery a whole other level if you choose one like this Rare Dwarf Black ZZ Plant from Hirt's Gardens.

Sagittarius – Monstera

Sagittarius signs rarely enjoy feeling boxed in, and honestly? Neither does a monstera.

Some of the most beloved houseplants around, these beauties grow outwards, upwards, sideways, and essentially wherever it pleases, developing those iconic splits and oversized leaves as it matures. It has adventurous energy in plant form.

Give your zodiac houseplant enough light and space and it’ll attempt to become an indoor jungle. So, yes, visit the United Nursery Store and bag yourself a Monstera Deliciosa Live Indoor Plant, whether it matches your sign or not.

Capricorn – Jade Plant

Capricorns understand something many people don’t: good things take time. And that patient, steady energy makes the jade plant an ideal match.

Think about it; they grow slowly but consistently, building structure year after year without needing constant intervention or dramatic displays. And this zodiac houseplant is practical, resilient, and quietly ambitious – which feels very Capricorn indeed.

Grab a jade plant from Costa Farms on Amazon and get ready for the magic, we say!

Aquarius – Tillandsia

Look, we can all agree on one thing when it comes to zodiac signs; Aquarians rarely enjoy doing things the conventional way. It makes so much sense, then, that their ideal houseplant is one that doesn’t even require soil.

Air plants absorb moisture and nutrients directly from the air around them, making Tillandsia feel slightly futuristic, faintly rebellious, and surprisingly self-contained... much like Aquarius itself, really.

There are so many options to choose from if you visit The Air Plant Shop, including this Purple Colorful Tillandsia Air Plant.

Pisces – Boston Fern

Pisces signs tend to care more about atmosphere than structure, which makes the soft, trailing Boston fern a very fitting match.

This pretty zodiac houseplant thrives in humid spaces with gentle light, creating calm, layered greenery that makes a room feel softer almost instantly. It’s romantic, dreamy, and just slightly nostalgic.

Consider it the botanical equivalent of ambient lighting, basically. Set your sights on the Boston Fern Hanging Basket Live Plant from The Expert Gardener, then, and make those dreams a reality!

Of course, it feels important to remind everyone reading that none of this is remotely scientific (much like astrology itself). A person’s houseplant choices could just as easily say as much about lighting conditions, apartment size, and whether they’ve remembered to water anything recently than they do the position of Mercury at birth.

But still… it’s hard not to notice the patterns. The Leos with towering fiddle leaf figs. The Virgos carefully propagating spider plants. The Sagittarians accidentally turning one monstera into an indoor jungle.

Maybe, then, the zodiac and houseplants have more in common than they first appear? Both are, at heart, small ways people try to better understand themselves... or at the very least make their homes feel a little more like them. And hey, any excuse to buy another plant, quite frankly...

Peace lily (Spathiphyllum spp.) is always a popular houseplant. Native to the tropics of Central America and Asia, the peace lily is only hardy in the warmest growing zones, so most of us enjoy its big glossy leaves and pure white blooms inside.

Peace lily care is famously hands-off. However, they can benefit from some extra attention in May as they enter the active growing season. A little effort now will reward you later with healthy, abundant foliage and plenty of pretty white flowers. (If you don't already have one, you can get a gorgeous peace lily from Lively Root delivered straight to your door!)

Here, we’ll go over the May tasks that you should do this spring to benefit your peace lily’s growth and health.

1. Spring Cleaning

Like the rest of your home, your houseplants can use a spring cleaning this time of year. The stagnant and recycled indoor air of winter literally causes indoor plants to get dirty. Your HVAC system has been cycling dust throughout the house in winter, and some of it has settled on the big, broad leaves of your peace lily.

Use a damp cloth to gently wipe dust from each leaf. They’ll look nicer and cleaner, but this chore is also important for ensuring leaves have full access to the light they need.

This is also a good time to trim off yellowing, brown, and dead leaves. Use a sharp pair of clean scissors and snip these leaves off at the base to tidy up the plant and encourage new growth. If you have any spent flowers, remove those, too. I like to use these cute pruning snips from Modern Sprout which can be found at Amazon.

2. Feed Lightly

Peace lilies are not heavy feeders, so less is more. Over-fertilizing can actually harm the plant and cause brown leaves. Early spring is a good time to give your peace lily a botanical boost to support active growth after winter dormancy.

Use a liquid or water-soluble and balanced houseplant fertilizer (10-10-10 or 5-5-5). Use the product at half the recommended strength. Indoor plant food from Miracle-Gro can be found at Amazon and is a great all-purpose houseplant food. Feed your plant with this now, in May, and again every four to six weeks throughout the growing season.

3. Gently Increase Water and Sunlight

Peace lilies naturally grow on the forest floor, receiving only dappled sunlight and thriving in humidity. As your peace lily comes out of winter dormancy and prepares for active growth, you should increase its watering and sunlight to support active growth.

Peace lilies do best with regular watering to keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy. They should be planted in containers with good drainage and in soil that also drains well. As spring begins, check the soil regularly and water your plants thoroughly and deeply when you can feel that the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil is dry. Rosy Soil's Indoor Potting Soil, available at Amazon, is a good quality organic soil that will help your peace lily thrive.

Increasing sunlight exposure now can help your plant develop more flowers, but don’t overdo it. They crave bright, indirect light. Peace lilies never do well in direct sunlight at any time of year. Gradually increase their exposure to light through a window with indirect sun or under taller plants at a brighter window. If you want to take your peace lily outside on warmer days, keep it in a shady spot.

4. Repot if Needed

Peace lilies do not need to be repotted as often as some other plants. They actually prefer to be a little rootbound. Every few years is typically adequate, and spring is the right time to do it. Some signs your peace lily is ready for a bigger container include roots coming out of the drainage holes or growing up and over the surface of the soil.

Choose a container that is one to two inches (2.5 to 5.0 cm) larger than the original pot. Terracotta is the best choice, as it wicks away excess moisture in the soil. Add fresh potting mix. Use a light mix that will drain very well. You can also grow peace lilies in water, so May is a nice time to make the switch.

When repotting peace lily plants, it's also a great opportunity to propagate your plant if you’re up for it. Peace lilies grow in clumps, so it’s not difficult to divide larger plants into smaller ones.

Remove the entire plant from the pot and gently brush dirt off the roots. Look for individual crowns, which contain distinct clusters of leaves. Use your hands or a clean, sharp knife to separate one or more crowns from the plant. Try to keep as many of the roots intact as possible and ensure the division has enough healthy roots. You can then repot two or more crowns to propagate new plants.

5. Encourage New Blooms

Everything you’re doing should encourage new flowers, but if it’s been a while since your plant has bloomed, you might need to investigate a little more deeply. The most important factors in flowering for peace lilies are adequate light, consistent moisture in the soil, and occasional, light feeding.

If you haven’t seen blooms on a peace lily for a long time, try increasing the light exposure (gently and indirectly, of course). Make sure you’re watering regularly and consistently. Peace lilies will readily bounce back from being in dry soil for a while, but this isn’t conducive to blooming. If you rarely feed your peace lily, start light feeding with dilute fertilizer now.

Peace lilies are easy to grow and very forgiving. They are, in fact, in the hard-to-kill category of houseplants. This doesn’t mean they deserve neglect, though. Do these simple May chores, and your plants will thank you with healthy growth and plenty of flowers.

Shop Peace Lily Care Essentials

If you have ever rooted a cutting in water, you may have wondered about just leaving it growing there. If a plant roots in water, why not grow it without soil? It’s easier and less messy than potting soil. Well, in some cases, your houseplants will love that idea.

Growing houseplants in water means that you can eliminate the spills of potting soil and the anxiety of how often to water. Your foliage or kitchen herbs can live in sparkling glasses or vases of H2O: no fuss, no muss, just happy plants.

Simple Hydroponic Growing

Yes, it’s called hydroponic growing, but that sounds more complicated than it has to be. Hydroponic plants are plants grown without soil. They live in water, their roots supported by substances like clay pebbles or coco coir that do not provide any nutrients.

Water doesn’t provide nutrients either, yet both edible and non-edible hydroponic plants require nutrients. Where do their nutrients come from? To provide those nutrients, you need to add a product to the water, a balanced, water-soluble hydroponic nutrient for plants, also called hydroponic fertilizer. The fertilizer trio from General Hydroponics, available on Amazon, allows you to custom mix your nutrients depending on what stage your plant is in.

Benefits of Hydroponic Growing

There are many advantages to growing hydroponic plants. First, it’s so clean! You don’t have to deal with bags of potting soil, fungus gnats that live in moist soil and circle the houseplants, or mold. They also look cool, giving your room a clean, modern vibe. Exposed roots in see-through vases are perfect for fit into minimalistic, contemporary living spaces.

In addition, while these “naked” plants are striking, they are low-care. Maintenance is minimal, making this type of plant easy for those who travel regularly or have busy work lives.

Making the Move

It’s not hard to transfer a plant from a soil planting to hydroponics, but it’s best to go slow and be patient. If you’ve just brought home a potted plant, let it acclimate for several weeks before starting the process. Only transfer healthy, vibrant plants. If a plant is ailing, nurse it back to health first.

When the plant is ready, tip the plant on its side and remove the roots and surrounding soil from the container. Then gently take off the soil with your hands, then carefully wash off whatever remains. Use a vase or glass full of clear water, and add a balanced nutrient solution as needed.

5 Houseplants That Prefer Life Without Soil

You can grow any of a number of plants hydroponically, including herbs and even vegetables. But there are popular houseplants included in the group. Here are our favorites.

1. Peace Lilies

If you’re looking for an easy-care houseplant with elegance and charm, you can’t do better than the peace lilies (Spathiphyllum spp.). Its large shiny leaves alone are pleasing, and when the white spathe “flowers” appear, the plants really light up a room.

These classic houseplants grow very well in water, as long as you make sure the base of the foliage is above the water line while the roots are below it. A narrow vase works well. Place the vase in a spot that gets bright, indirect sun to help those “blooms” to keep coming.

Change out the water twice a month and keep an eye on it in the meantime. If the water line dips, add more so that the roots are always in water.

2. Pothos

Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is one of my favorite houseplants - and I am sure I am not the only one thrilled by its easy-care ways and gorgeous cascading, heart-shaped green or variegated leaves. I’ve rooted many a pothos stem in water (I have five large hanging baskets of pothos in my apartment) and am totally won over by its ability to grow fast and thrive in low-light conditions.

To grow pothos in water, just make as if you were rooting a cutting. Cut a pothos vine with three or four nodes, strip off the bottom leaves, then place it in a pretty vase. Add water to cover the vine below the lowest leaf. Swap out the water every week or two.

3. Lucky Bamboo

Lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana) is so happy in water that it’s often sold without soil. Of course, it’s not a real bamboo plant, but a member of the Dracaena clan like the corn plant, but grows in stalks like bamboo, with a tuft of leaves on top.

To grow this houseplant without soil, just pop it in a clear glass container with water up to the lower leaves, and add some colored pebbles to keep the stalk upright. It will probably be happy for years if you change out the water regularly, even if you don’t add any hydroponic fertilizer to the vase.

4. Spider Plants

Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) is another great favorite of mine, and who can resist the long, green and white leaves forming an arching mound or the tiny baby plants that appear on long stems.

To grow one of these in water, simply remove one of the babies from its stem and situate it in water, keeping its foliage dry but its roots wet. Change out the water twice a week and add occasional hydroponic fertilizer. Warning: every spider plant will grow fast and effortlessly, quickly producing babies of its own.

5. Chinese Evergreen

There must be an unwritten exception to the rule to tell the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth: it doesn’t seem to apply to houseplant names. Just like the lucky bamboo is not bamboo, the Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema commutatum) is not an evergreen tree. It’s a tropical beauty with large green leaves that grow on stalks that fit perfectly into a thin vase of water.

Snip off stem sections about as long as your hand, then remove the lower leaves. Place the stems in water, and change it out twice a week. Add a little hydroponic fertilizer once a month and keep the plant in indirect sunlight.

Shop Houseplant Hydroponic Essentials

Dracaena trifasciata is native to rocky, inhospitable regions of Africa, which tells you right away that snake plant soil should echo those lean, fast-draining conditions. You don’t need to fill your pot with stones, but the mix should feel open, airy, and just a little gritty to the touch. That structure matters – it determines how quickly water moves through the pot and how much moisture lingers around the roots.

Snake plants are succulents, adapted to endure long stretches without rain, so they prefer a soil that dries out rather than one that stays damp. When moisture hangs around too long, their shallow roots are vulnerable to fungal diseases that lead to rot – often the quickest way to lose an otherwise indestructible plant.

If you’re refreshing your plant’s setup, knowing how to repot a snake plant can help you match the soil and container to its needs, while good snake plant care always begins with a mix that drains freely and doesn’t cling to excess water.

Soil Mix for Snake Plants

A standard houseplant potting mix is a perfectly good starting point, but on its own, it’s often too dense for snake plant soil. To get the balance right, you’ll want to introduce materials that open up the texture and improve drainage. Some gardeners like to mix in fine horticultural charcoal, like this Olivette product on Amazon, which helps create space in the soil and keeps it fresh, while others reach for coarse sand, coconut coir, perlite, or vermiculite. Each of these ingredients works slightly differently, but they all encourage excess water to move through the pot rather than linger around the roots.

Most commercial potting soils already contain perlite and peat moss, but peat in particular holds onto moisture – useful for thirstier plants, less so here. If there’s too much of it in the mix, the soil can stay damp far longer than a snake plant would ever experience in its native habitat. The goal is a blend that feels light in the hand and drains quickly after watering, with plenty of tiny air pockets throughout. Starting with a bagged mix is absolutely fine, just be sure to amend it with a coarser ingredient or two so water can pass through freely and roots can breathe.

How Soil Type Affects Snake Plant Water Needs

Soil type plays a decisive role in how water behaves around your plant’s roots – how much is held, how quickly it drains, and how much air remains in the mix. Each ingredient brings its own qualities: some hold onto moisture, while others create vital pockets of space that let excess water slip away. Those air gaps are just as important as the water itself, helping prevent the stagnant conditions where fungal snake plant problems take hold.

Loose, sandy blends tend to drain rapidly, while mixes high in peat hold moisture for much longer. Clay soils, with their fine particles, are especially prone to becoming waterlogged, and even loam – often considered the gardener’s gold standard – is still too dense for snake plant soil because it lacks the wide channels that allow water to move freely. Snake plants do need watering, of course, but in their world, it arrives, passes through quickly, and leaves only a trace behind for the roots to absorb.

What you’re aiming for is a mix built around larger, coarser particles – one that sheds excess moisture within minutes rather than hours, while still offering just enough hydration to sustain the plant between waterings.

Best Ready-Made Soil for Snake Plants

There are several ready-made mixes that can support healthy growth, though unless buying a specialist snake plant soil mix, most benefit from a small tweak to better suit the plant's needs. Succulent and cactus blends are usually the closest match, typically combining potting mix with coarse materials like sand, perlite, or pumice. These gritty additions are what make the difference, helping water drain quickly and preventing the roots from sitting in damp conditions.

Cactus mixes, in particular, tend to lean heavily on inorganic ingredients, with just a modest amount of organic matter such as potting mix, pine bark, or even a little clay. That balance favors drainage over moisture retention – exactly what snake plants prefer. Orchid mix can also be useful when blended with standard potting soil and extra perlite, creating a chunkier, more open structure that holds a touch of moisture while still allowing excess water to pass through with ease.

Every commercial blend will vary slightly in its ratios, but the aim is always the same: a light, fast-draining medium that mimics the plant’s natural environment. With the right base, and perhaps a small adjustment, most bagged mixes can be turned into an ideal home for a snake plant.

Specialist Snake Plant Potting Soils

Make Your Own Snake Plant Potting Soil

Mixing your own snake plant soil is straightforward and gives you complete control over drainage and texture. A wheelbarrow, a large bucket, or even a tarp will do the job. For a reliable blend, combine 1 part potting soil, ½ part compost or worm castings, 2 parts coarse sand, and ½ part perlite or pumice. This creates a loose, free-draining mix with larger particles for airflow and just enough organic matter to provide gentle nutrients.

If you prefer to keep things simple, try ⅔ potting soil with ⅓ clay pebbles, pumice, or perlite, or start with a cactus or succulent mix and cut it with about 50 percent standard potting soil. However you approach it, the finished mix should look and feel open – you should be able to see and distinguish the different components easily. Uniform, fine-textured soils tend to compact, slowing drainage and increasing the risk of rot.

Overwatering is often less about how frequently you water and more about the soil holding onto that moisture for too long. With a well-made mix, water should pass through quickly, leaving just a hint of moisture behind. Once you’ve got the balance right, simply water when the soil feels dry, and your snake plant will be far more resilient.

DIY Snake Plant Soil Buys

Swiss cheese plants don't need much to survive, but April is when they're actually ready to do something impressive – and a handful of well-timed tasks right now is what makes that happen. This is the month to get things right before the real push begins. Swiss cheese plant care shifts pretty noticeably between seasons – what worked through winter won't cut it now.

Swiss cheese plants – the common name for a few types of monstera, most notably Monstera deliciosa and Monstera adansonii – have a way of looking fine no matter what you do to them, which is part of the appeal. But "fine" and "thriving" are pretty different things – and April is when that gap starts to show. Monstera comes out of winter slow and a little flat, but it's ready to move now, and what happens in the next few weeks determines whether it actually does. Miss it, and the plant tends to stall rather than build momentum.

These six tasks cover what the plant actually needs this month. None of this is complicated. It's mostly just catching up to where the plant already is – adjusting a few things that have been on winter settings for too long.

1. Bump Up Watering

Winter watering for Swiss cheese plants tends to be pretty minimal – the plant grows slowly, the soil holds moisture longer, and overwatering is a real risk if the schedule doesn't account for that. April changes the equation. The root system is active again, pulling more moisture, and the soil turns over faster than it did in February. Every seven to ten days is a reasonable baseline – but honestly, the soil tells you more than the calendar does.

Push a finger two or three inches (5–8 cm) into the soil. Still damp? Come back in a few days. Not sure? Use a moisture meter, like this Raintrip 4-in-1 Soil Meter, to check. When it's dry all the way down, soak it thoroughly and let the pot drain. A monstera sitting in a wet saucer is a root rot situation waiting to happen – even in spring when the plant is drinking more than usual. It needs a good soak followed by a proper dry-down, not constant dampness.

2. Move It Closer to the Light

The Swiss cheese plant survives in lower light – it just doesn't do anything interesting there. The light situation changes enough in April that it's worth taking a fresh look at where the plant is sitting. Newer leaves coming in smaller than expected, or without the characteristic splits and holes, almost always point to a light issue.

Bright indirect light is the target – a spot that gets good light for several hours without direct afternoon sun beating on the leaves. East-facing windows are solid. South or west-facing windows work too, with a bit of distance or a sheer curtain to filter the intensity. Don't put it flush against a south-facing window without something between it and the glass – Monstera leaves scorch faster than people expect. This Yesus Sunshade mesh from Amazon can help protect plants on the hottest days.

3. Start Fertilizing Again

Skip fertilizer through winter – the plant isn't using it anyway. April is when that changes. A balanced liquid fertilizer around 20-20-20, diluted to half strength, once a month through spring and summer, is what it needs. Spring leaves are some of the biggest and most fenestrated the plant will push out all year, and what's available in the soil actually shows up in those leaves. This TPS Nutrients Monstera Fertilizer dilutes easily and works well for monthly feeding without overdoing it.

One thing people get wrong is fertilizing houseplants in completely dry soil. Give it a plain water rinse first, let it drain, then come back with the diluted feed. Dry soil concentrates the salts and scorches the roots – browning leaf edges a few weeks later is usually this exact problem, and it's avoidable.

4. Clean the Leaves

Those big leaves collect a surprising amount of dust, and a winter's worth of buildup cuts into photosynthesis right when the plant is trying to ramp up. A damp cloth and plain water are all it takes to clean houseplants – support the back of each leaf while wiping so the stems don't take the strain.

While you're at it, flip the leaves and check the undersides. Spider mites and scale both tend to set up there, and Monstera's leaf size gives them a lot of room to get established quietly. Either one caught early is a quick fix with a damp cloth and a little neem oil, available in spray form from Amazon. Left until summer, either can spread fast and take months to clear.

5. Check the Roots and Consider Repotting

Two years in the same pot is about when it's worth checking. Roots circling the inside, pushing out the drainage holes, or a plant that dries out unusually fast – those are the signs. A root-bound Swiss cheese plant stalls earlier in the season than one with room, and spring is when that difference shows up.

When repotting monstera, go up one pot size, not two. Too much extra soil holds moisture that the roots can't reach and creates conditions for rot. A well-draining potting mix is important here – this aroid mix from Amazon is formulated for plants like Monstera and drains the way it should. After repotting, hold off on fertilizing for about a month – the fresh soil has enough nutrients to start, and pushing fertilizer into a plant adjusting to a new container tends to stress it.

6. Train or Stake Any New Growth

In the wild, a Swiss cheese plant climbs. Indoors, it does noticeably better when it has something to climb to – bigger leaves, more splits, better overall shape. If new stems are flopping sideways or the plant is lopsided, now is a good time to add a moss pole and start redirecting things upward – these Craft911 poles are ideal. Plants that climb tend to produce larger, more fenestrated leaves than those left to sprawl – the upward orientation triggers the same response it would get in a forest canopy.

Attaching stems to a pole is straightforward – soft ties or strips of stretchy material work better than wire, which cuts into stems as growth pushes against it. These plant ties from Amazon are soft enough to use without marking the stems. Already sprawling? Don't try to correct it all at once – move a few stems, let it settle, then revisit.

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Keeping the Momentum Through Spring

April sets the tone for the whole growing season. A Swiss cheese plant that goes into spring with the right conditions – light, water, feeding, room in the pot – will put on growth through summer that's hard to match.

Through spring, watch how fast the soil dries out – it speeds up as temperatures climb and the plant hits its stride. New leaves unfurling regularly is the sign that things are working. If they come in small, pale, or without splits, the plant is asking for something – more light, nutrients, or root room. Pay attention, and it'll tell you.

Monstera deliciosa, more commonly known as the Swiss cheese plant, is one of the most recognizable houseplants. It is a large-leafed beauty that adds instant interest to any home. This popular tropical houseplant has large, glossy leaves filled with deep lobes and holes that resemble Swiss cheese. This is where its common name originates.

The Swiss cheese plant is an evergreen vine native to the rainforests of Mexico and Central America. It has aerial roots that grow downwards from its stem. These roots easily reach the ground, giving the plant a vining tendency in its native habitat.

Monsteras can grow well indoors as well, but these houseplants with big, bold leaves need some special care to thrive. I’ll walk you through exactly how to care for a monstera houseplant and give you expert tips to help your plants thrive.

Planting

Plant monstera in a deep container that gives it plenty of room for root growth. Make sure the container has drainage holes and choose a rich, loose potting soil, like this one from Miracle-Gro that’s made specifically for indoor plants.

You can transplant or pot up an indoor monstera plants at any time of year.

Soil Requirements

Monstera prefers rich, fertile soil that drains well. It will not tolerate standing water. Choose a loose, high-quality potting mix and allow the soil to dry out between waterings.

Light Requirements

The vines of monstera grow under a forest canopy, so provide your plant with indirect or filtered light. Too much direct light can cause leaf scorch on their fenestrated foliage.

However, most home interiors are much dimmer than outdoors, so bright indirect sunlight is ideal for monstera houseplants. Place plants a few feet from a sunny window or add a sheer curtain to your window, if it provides direct sun.

Temperature & Humidity

Warmth and humidity are important for this tropical native. Monstera plants will benefit from cooler temperatures in winter, down to about 55 to 65°F (13-18°C). However, the Swiss cheese vine plant does not tolerate frost, so this should be considered before moving houseplants outdoors.

Monstera houseplants need high humidity to grow best. Use a pebble tray to increase humidity in the air around your plant. Or you can invest in a humidifier, like this one from Levoit, that will make all your tropical houseplants very happy.

Transplanting

Monsteras require repotting every couple of years. Choose a new pot that is 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm) wider and deeper than the old container.

Repot Swiss cheese plants using a rich potting soil made of compost and coco coir to help with aeration and drainage. When repotting, make sure you loosen the roots a bit before placing them into a new pot.

These plants are top-heavy and often require support, so repotting is the perfect time to add a structure they can grow onto. A good option is to support your Swiss cheese plant with a moss pole, which you can get on Amazon.

During repotting, place a moss pole in the pot with your monstera. Lightly tie the stems to the pole with string or pantyhose. Be sure to mist the moss pole regularly to encourage rooting onto the structure. After repotting the Swiss cheese vine plant, water it thoroughly.

Monstera Plant Care

Monstera care is relatively simple, but if you’re thinking of bringing one into your home, consider its unique needs as a tropical rainforest plant.

Watering

Water your monstera when the top few inches of soil have dried. Water thoroughly, but do not let any standing water remain. Overwatering can cause root rot and kill plants. It’s always better to underwater plants rather than overwater them.

Cut back on watering frequency during the fall and winter when plants enter dormancy.

Fertilizing

Apply a standard houseplant fertilizer, like this one from Amazon, every couple of weeks during the growing season, from spring into early fall. This will ensure your monstera gets all the nutrients it needs to produce lots of big, shiny leaves.

Pruning

Swiss cheese plant vines can become uncontrollable if they’re growing happily. You can manage their growth by pruning. Remove leaves to control the size and shape of the plant. You can also remove any aerial roots that look untidy.

You can prune leggy monsteras any time of year, but it’s best done in spring. Cut back plants whenever they appear too tall or when aerial roots become difficult to control. This is sometimes a problem when growing a Swiss cheese plant on a moss pole.

Monstera Varieties

Monstera is increasingly popular as a houseplant, which means you can now find a few different varieties and cultivars. These are some of the most commonly available types of monsteras:

• ‘Variegata’ is a variegated type of monstera with cream-to-yellow coloring mixed with green. You can get a variegated monstera from Amazon.
• ‘Borsigiana’ has smaller leaves than other types of monstera. You can find the unique 'Mint' cultivar from Sunshine Greens on Etsy.
• ‘Thai Constellation’ is a rare monstera variety with white spots and variegation, though it's becoming increasingly popular and is much easier to find than just a couple years ago. Get a Thai Constellation monstera in a cute decorative pot from Walmart.
• Monstera adansonii is a different species that has smaller leaves than the classic Monstera deliciosa. You can find M. adansonii for sale from Lowe's.

Propagation

You can propagate monstera plants through seeds, stem cuttings, or suckers. But propagating via cuttings or suckers is most common.

Monstera roots easily by cutting. To make new plants, take a stem cutting with at least one node and one leaf. Make the cut about an inch (2.5 cm) below the node.

Remove the first leaf near the base of the cutting and plant the node in soil. You can use rooting hormone if desired, but this isn't necessary. Water well, allowing soil to drain out.

You can also propagate plant cuttings in water first and then move them to a pot once rooting has begun. This typically takes about two to three weeks.

You can also propagate monstera plants via air layering by wrapping damp moss around the stem at a small aerial root and leaf axil, holding it in place with string. Enclose this section in a clear bag and tie it off at the top, adding a few small air vents.

Within a few months, new roots should begin to develop on the Swiss cheese vine plant. Cut away the section including the roots and stem above and transplant into a new pot.

Winter Care

Reduce watering and humidity for monstera plants in winter and provide them with more bright light. Do not let temperatures drop below 55°F (13°C) or you risk damaging their tender foliage.

Common Problems

There are no significant houseplant pests or diseases associated with monstera. Root rot can be a problem if you let water stand in the pot or if the soil is too heavy to drain. As with other houseplants, watch for signs of mealybugs, thrips, spider mites, and scale.

Clean leaves regularly with a microfiber cloth. During cleaning, check for pests and diseases. If you find pests, use an insecticidal soap spray or neem oil spray, both of which you can get on Amazon, to get rid of problem insects organically. Neem oil also gives plant leaves a natural, glossy shine.

How to Make a Monstera Bloom

Monsteras are not likely to bloom when grown as houseplants. The constraints of growing indoors in a container often prevent monsteras from reaching adequate maturity to bloom. With enough time and the perfect conditions, you might get a monstera to bloom.

But their flowers are not very noteworthy. They produce an arum-like bloom composed of a spadix and spathe.

Frequently Asked Questions

Monstera Care Must-Haves

The standard repotting rule is if you see roots coming out of the drainage holes in the bottom of your container, it’s time for a bigger pot. This is solid advice for most houseplants. But some houseplants like to be root bound and repotting them can actually set them back in terms of growth.

These houseplants that thrive in crowded containers will sulk when you size up too soon. Blooms can stall out, root rot becomes more likely, and you may end up with a big leafy plant that isn’t doing much. For these types of plants, being cramped isn’t a problem to solve – it’s a way of life.

Knowing the signs of a root bound plant can help you prevent problems with most houseplants. Roots circling the inside of the pot, pushing up through the soil, or sneaking out the bottom. These are all signs of a plant that has run out of space and it’s an issue that’s worth addressing. But for the plants on this list, those signs signal they’re in their sweet spot.

What Does "Root Bound” Mean?

When a plant runs out of room in its pot, the roots don’t just stop – they keep growing and looping around the walls of the pot, stacking up at the bottom, and eventually finding their way out the drainage holes.

Soil gets shouldered aside in the process. And less soil means the potting mix can’t hold water the way it used to, so the pot dries out fast and your plant may look thirsty right after watering. Pop a root bound houseplant out of the container and you’ll see the problem immediately – a solid mass of roots with almost no soil left between them.

Most plants hate being root bound. But certain species spent a long time adapting to places where roots don’t get much room to grow. In their native environments, these plants often grow edged into bark, sprouting out of rocky rubble, or clinging to cliff faces. Cramped quarters feel normal to them.

Many flowering types of houseplants respond to a tight pot by putting energy into blooms rather than chasing more root space. The plant interprets the stress of being root bound as a signal to reproduce.

When repotting is necessary, you should only go one size up for your new containers. Repotting into a new pot that’s about 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm) wider than the old one is plenty. In fact, going much bigger tends to backfire.

Plants That Prefer to Be Root Bound

If you’re wondering whether you have a houseplant that likes to be root bound, I have the answer. The plants listed below prefer cramped growing conditions and only rarely need repotting.

1. Peace Lily

Give a peace lily too much pot space and it just produces leaves with no flowers. Roots need to be crowded before the plant decides to flower, which can be either annoying or useful depending on what you’re after.

Bright, indirect light is best for peace lily plants. Water them once the top inch (2.5 cm) has dried and don’t rush to repot. You should wait at least two to three years between moves and only repot peace lily plants when roots are clearly out of room.

A self-watering planter from Amazon is a solid pick for peace lilies. It keeps moisture consistent without the risk of standing water that causes root rot in houseplants.

2. Spider Plant

Packed roots seem to flip a switch in spider plants. Suddenly there are runners everywhere – those long trailing stems with little spiderettes hanging off the ends, which is really the whole appeal of this low-maintenance houseplant.

Spider plants are easy-going about almost everything else: low-light, missed waterings, dry air. Just leave them be and watch them thrive. When the pot itself starts distorting or cracking from root pressure, that’s the sign it’s time to repot your spider plant. Otherwise, only transplanting every two to three years is a reasonable interval.

3. Snake Plant

A tight pot is ideal for snake plants. They are slow growers to begin with and less soil around the roots means the potting mix dries out between waterings, which is the way it should be for these drought-tolerant houseplants. Wet soil sitting around their roots kills snake plants way more often than being root bound does.

Wait three to five years between transplanting and only repot snake plants when roots are working their way out of the container. Low light, weeks without water, and temperature swings – none of it really bothers these hard-to-kill houseplants. Just make sure they’re snug in their pots to help them thrive.

4. Phalaenopsis Orchid

In the wild, orchid roots grip tree bark and dangle in the open air, so soil isn’t part of the picture at all. Understanding their native growing habit matters when it comes to repotting them.

Use a chunky bark-based orchid potting mix, like this one from Amazon, and repot orchids in a small container. Ideally, something that drains instantly and dries fast is what orchids need and a pot that looks way too small is fine.

Water thoroughly, then wait until the mix is bone dry before watering again. Repot orchid plants after blooming, not before. Disturbing roots mid-cycle tends to cut the flowering short.

When the bark starts breaking down and holding moisture instead of draining, that’s the signal to repot again – roughly once every one to two years.

5. Aloe Vera

Too much pot is probably the most common way people kill aloe vera plants. A big container holds much more moisture than the roots can use. Then the soil sits wet for too long and starts rotting them from below before anything looks wrong up top.

Repot aloe vera into a snug terracotta pot with a gritty cactus or succulent potting mix, like this one from Miracle-Gro. Then water them deeply and leave plants completely alone until they’re dry again.

Repotting really only makes sense when offsets are crowding out the parent plant or if roots are heaving up the soil. You should only have to repot once every few years. Go up one pot size for the best results.

6. Clivia

Clivia growers have known for a long time that cramped roots and those gorgeous orange flower clusters go together. Repot too often and the blooms just stop – sometimes for years.

The clivia repotting routine that works best: a tight pot, cool and dry conditions around 50°F (10°C) in winter, then back to warmth in late winter, and tons of flowers follow. It’s not complicated, but it requires not interfering too much with your plants.

How often should you repot plants? Waiting five years between repotting clivia is reasonable and, even then, only repot when the plant is being pushed up out of the container by its own roots.

7. Christmas Cactus

Two things push a Christmas cactus to bloom: a pot it has already outgrown, and a stretch of cool, dry nights in fall. Somewhere around September, ease off watering and place your plant somewhere that gets down to 50-60°F (10-15°C) after dark. Buds tend to follow on their own from there.

Repotting a Christmas cactus into a bigger container at the wrong time resets that whole process and can push blooming back a full season. After flowering is your window for repotting, if your plant needs it. Only repot Christmas cacti once every three to four years or so.

A terracotta pot with drainage holes, like this one from Amazon, is a good container for repotting. The porous walls help the soil dry between waterings, which is exactly what these need going into their rest period.

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People treat jade plants (Crassula ovata) like furniture. And the thing is, the jade plants let them. Ignore it and ignore it and it'll probably still be alive come December. But that's not the same thing as a jade that's actually doing well, and April is where the two start to diverge. This is when dormancy ends and the plant wants to put out real growth – not just sit there looking glossy.

Getting the timing right matters more than most people realize. Solid jade plant care through the growing season comes down to a few key adjustments.

Most of these are quick. A few are just adjustments to what you're already doing. But done now, at the right moment, they add up to a noticeably healthier plant by the time summer rolls around.

1. Ease Back into Regular Watering

Winter watering for jade is pretty minimal – once every three or four weeks, sometimes stretching longer. April changes that. The plant is growing again and actually using the moisture you give it, so bumping up to roughly every ten to fourteen days makes sense. That said, don't overdo it. Jade holds water in its leaves for a reason.

Check the top inch or two (2.5–5 cm) before watering every single time. Still damp? Come back in a few days. When it's dry, soak it thoroughly and let the pot drain all the way – jade sitting in a wet saucer is jade heading toward root rot, even in spring.

2. Move It into More Light

Jade wants sun, and spring is when it starts actually mattering again. East-facing windows work well – enough direct morning light without the harsh afternoon heat. If the stems stretched out and got a bit scraggly over winter, that's a light problem, and now's the time to address it before the new growth comes in the same way.

Wherever it ends up, rotate the pot every week or two. Jade leans hard toward its light source and will grow lopsided if left alone. A quarter turn each week keeps things even and encourages growth on all sides rather than just the one facing the window.

3. Start a Light Feeding Schedule

Never fertilize a jade plant during the winter – doesn't need it and won't use it well. April is the perfect time to start again. Apply a half-strength 10-10-10 fertilizer, or this succulent fertilizer from Amazononce a month. Dilute it down to half strength so it's gentle enough for monthly use without pushing weak growth.

Overfeeding is actually a more common problem than underfeeding with jade. Too much nitrogen and the new growth comes in soft and floppy, making the plant easier for pests to damage and more prone to rot. Once a month, half strength, and stop entirely when fall arrives. Simple.

4. Check for Pests

Dry indoor air all winter is the perfect condition for mealybugs and spider mites, and jade is not immune. Mealybugs tuck themselves into stem joints and leaf bases – look for small white cottony bits. Spider mites are subtler; the leaves just look a little dull, maybe some faint webbing if it's been going on a while.

Caught early, either of these jade pests is easy to deal with. All you need is rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab, worked carefully into the affected spots. Let it go a few more weeks, however, and it becomes a much bigger project. It's worth taking five minutes now to go over the whole plant, undersides of leaves included.

5. Repot (If It's Outgrown Its Container)

Roots sneaking out the drainage holes, or the plant looking way too big for the container it's in – these are the signs it's time to repot a jade plant. Spring is the right time, and April is squarely in that window. Go up one size only; jade is fine slightly root-bound and doesn't need a lot of extra room to be comfortable.

Fast-draining soil matters here. A cactus mix works well, or just cut regular potting soil with perlite about 2:1. Something like this cactus mix from Amazon works – it won't hold excess moisture the way standard potting mix does. After repotting, wait three to five days before watering again.

6. Take Cuttings

April is a good time to propagate jade, and the process is pretty forgiving. Snip a healthy stem around three to four inches (7.5–10 cm), then set the cutting somewhere dry for a couple of days – it needs that time for the cut end to callous over before it goes into soil. Skip that step and it tends to rot rather than root.

Plant it in barely moist, gritty soil and leave it mostly alone. Indirect light, not much water, and patience. New growth shows up within a few weeks when it's working. It's a good way to use up trimmings from any pruning, and jade cuttings root reliably enough that they make decent gifts.

Keep It Going Through Spring

April is really just about getting back in sync with what the plant is already doing. Dormancy's over, growth is starting – water, light, and feeding all need a nudge in the right direction. None of it is complicated, but the timing matters more than people think.

Past April, keep an eye on soil moisture as temperatures climb – jade dries out faster in summer than most people expect. This 4-in-1 soil meter from Amazon is useful if you find yourself second-guessing it. Stay consistent through the growing season and jade rewards that attention in ways that are pretty hard to miss by fall.

April is a pivotal month for orchids – the worst of winter is behind them, light is strengthening, and what you do right now will determine whether your plant rebounds with real vigor or just limps along.

Orchids have a reputation for being temperamental, and some of that is earned. But a lot of the problems people run into come from treating them the same in April as in November – same watering schedule, same windowsill spot, same benign neglect. Spring changes what these plants need, and the ones that thrive are usually the ones whose owners actually notice that shift.

April is when orchids signal pretty clearly whether winter treated them well or not. Strong orchid care through the seasonal transition separates plants that bloom reliably year after year from ones that produce a spike once and never quite manage it again. These six tasks are worth doing this month. And, if you're feeling inspired to treat yourself to some new specimens, then check out this budget-friendly set of five orchids from Angel's Orchids on Amazon.

1. Watch for a New Flower Spike

If the orchid finished blooming over winter and hasn't done much since, April is when things tend to start moving again. New spikes emerge from the base or from nodes on existing stems, depending on the variety. The ever-popular Phalaenopsis orchid spikes have a distinctive flattened, mitten-like tip that sets them apart from new root growth, which tends to be rounder and more tapered.

Once a spike appears, don't move the plant. Orchids abort developing spikes when conditions shift too suddenly – temperature, light, or even rotating the pot. Find a stable spot with good indirect light and leave it. A stake and soft clip, like these from Amazon, help train an orchid spike upright as it grows rather than letting it flop sideways.

2. Adjust Watering for the Season

Winter watering for orchids is conservative – every ten days to two weeks, sometimes longer. April changes that. The plant is more active, the potting mix dries faster, and watering can shift toward every seven days or so. That said, the bark is a better guide than the calendar. If it still feels damp a few inches (5–8 cm) down, just wait.

Method matters too. Don't water orchids with ice cubes, as it can shock the plants. Just run the pot under lukewarm water for 30 seconds to get everything soaked and to flush out fertilizer salt buildup. Then let it drain completely before setting it back. Never leave the pot sitting in water beyond the initial watering, as orchid roots go soft and brown fast when kept wet, and serious root rot doesn't leave much to recover from.

3. Trim the Old Spike

Once flowers drop and the spike turns yellow and papery, it's done – cut it back to the base with clean scissors or pruners. A spent brown spike won't rebloom, and removing it frees the plant to put energy toward a new one. Some people leave green spikes hoping for a second flush, which often works on Phalaenopsis if a node is still viable, but it's a gamble.

If the spike is still green but flowering has stopped, cutting back to a healthy node – just above one of the small bumps along the stem – sometimes prompts a secondary spike. Not guaranteed, but worth trying before going to the base. Either way, sterilize your cutting tool first. Fresh cuts are an easy entry point for bacterial infection, and orchids are more vulnerable than they look.

4. Check the Potting Mix

Orchid potting mix breaks down with time – compacting, darkening, and holding moisture longer than it should. That slow suffocation is one of the most common reasons orchids decline gradually. If the mix looks more like fine dark compost than chunky bark, it's overdue. Spring is the repotting window, and April gives disturbed roots the best chance to recover before summer growth really kicks in.

Go up one pot size at most when repotting orchids – they bloom better slightly snug, and too much fresh bark can actually delay flowering. A chunky orchid bark like this Better Gro Orchid Mix gives roots the airy, open structure they need. Trim any dead or mushy roots before repotting, and hold off watering for a few days after to let things settle.

5. Reassess Its Position

April light is definitely different from January – stronger, more direct, hitting at a different angle. A spot that worked fine all winter might now be too bright for your orchid's light requirements, or a plant that managed in lower light might benefit from moving closer to the window. Orchid leaves are a decent indicator: deep green and slightly soft usually means not enough light; pale, yellowish, or with dry patches means too much direct sun.

East-facing windows are the reliable choice – bright morning light without the harsh intensity of a south-facing afternoon exposure. If south is the only option, a sheer curtain does the job. The goal is bright but diffuse – crisp shadows without harshness. Getting this dialed in now sets the plant up well rather than trying to correct it mid-season.

6. Get Back on a Feeding Schedule

If fertilizing got patchy over winter, April is the time to reset. Diluted orchid fertilizer every one to two weeks through spring and summer is the target. The old rule – "weakly, weekly" – still holds. Half-strength more often beats a heavy monthly dose every time. If you prefer a spray, this Organic Ready to Spray Orchid Food Mix from The Grow Co is formulated for the job.

One detail worth remembering: don't feed a bone-dry plant. If the bark is completely dry at feeding time, give it a plain water rinse first, then follow with the diluted fertilizer if you are feeding it that way. Feeding into dry roots concentrates salts, and causes tip burn – that browning at the root ends that looks alarming even when it's mild. It’s a small thing, but it adds up over a season.

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Going Into Late Spring

Past April, keep things consistent. Orchids don't want fussing, but they do respond to steady, reliable care – watering, light, and feeding that doesn't skip weeks. This TempPro TP50 thermometer and hygrometer from Amazon is useful if you're not sure whether temperature and humidity are actually in range. Stay on it through spring, and the blooms tend to follow.

It’s that time of year when those pesky little houseplant flies appear and a certain online retailer sees a huge spike in sales of hideously bright yellow sticky traps. Fungus gnats are a common indoor plant pest and once they’ve moved into one pot, they quickly spread to others, making them tricky to eradicate. But a couple of years ago, I started dusting the soil surface of my houseplants with cinnamon powder, and I haven’t seen a fungus gnat since.

Does using cinnamon on your houseplants get rid of flies? I’m no scientist, and the cinnamon powder certainly wasn’t a miracle cure-all but, used alongside other measures, I’m pretty sure it helped get rid of those annoying little critters, and is helping to keep them away for good. It’s well known that cinnamon has anti-fungal properties so it makes sense that, as fungus gnat larvae primarily feed on fungi as well as algae and decaying organic matter, this spice might be a useful aid. Cinnamon has been used for millennia: evidence exists of it being traded 3,000 years ago, ancient Egyptians used it for embalming mummies, and it was once more valuable than gold. So it has to do something, right? So that’s why, at my wits end trying to get rid of the flies on my houseplants, I gave it a go.

Through trial and error, I learned a few vital details that seemed to be the difference between cinnamon powder simply adding a pleasant scent to my houseplants and being an effective part of my fungus-gnat-free program. Here’s what I discovered.

1. Fungus Gnat Larvae Live in Houseplant Soil

Fungus gnats are sciarid flies, and females lay eggs just under the surface of damp compost, which hatch into larvae within a few days. These maggots eat dead plant matter and fungus for a couple of weeks, then pupate for 3–7 days before hatching into adult flies. This short lifecycle is why a few fungus gnats on one plant can quickly turn into a full-on houseplant infestation. It also means that for every critter you see flying around your plant, there are probably hundreds more living in the soil.

So my first step was to refresh the potting soil in all my houseplants. I scraped away as much of the compost as possible, washed and dried the pots, then repotted the plants using a purpose-made potting mix for indoor plants, like Back to the Roots Organic Indoor Potting Mix, available from Amazon.

And yes, I did wear exam gloves like these from Amazon because I was scared of the maggots.

2. Cassia Cinnamon is More Effective Than Ceylon Cinnamon

Turns out, not all cinnamon is created equal. Cinnamon is made from the bark of various species of Cinnamomum trees. Cinnamon produced from Cinnamomum aromaticum trees is known as cassia, while premium Ceylon cinnamon comes from Cinnamomum verum trees. While Ceylon is considered far superior to cassia for culinary use, it contains a much lower concentration of cinnamaldehyde, which is the anti-fungal compound in cinnamon.

It’s important to realize that cinnamaldehyde is slightly phytotoxic – harmful to plants – in very high doses. But that’s why it’s effective as an anti-fungal agent. This does mean it’s vital to use it very sparingly on your houseplants, though.

3. Organic Cinnamon is Best

Regular cinnamon production can involve synthetic pesticides, chemical fertilizers and fumigation. I like to know what I’m giving to my precious houseplants, so I use organic cinnamon. You can buy cost-effective 1¼lb resealable bags of powdered organic cassia on Amazon, or it’s even cheaper to buy organic cassia sticks such as these on Amazon and blitz them into a fine powder yourself.

4. A Light Cinnamon Dusting is All You Need

You’re not adding cinnamon to the soil to kill the fungus gnat larvae, but simply using its anti-fungal properties to create an environment where fungus is less likely to grow, so removing the maggots’ food source. So all you need is the lightest dusting of cinnamon on the surface of the potting mix. I dusted with cinnamon every couple of weeks during the infestation, then once a month or so afterwards. To get a super-fine dusting, I used a small matcha sifter like this from Amazon.

It’s important not to use too much cinnamon because of its phytotoxicity but also to allow the potting mix to breathe. If you cover the surface, that can suffocate the soil and increase mold, so making the problem worse rather than better.

5. Use Sticky Traps to Break the Flies’ Lifecycle

During an infestation, you need to use sticky traps as well as cinnamon to break the lifecycle. Do put up with the garish bright yellow ones, as that bright color apparently triggers a landing response in insects. I prefer to use several smaller sticky traps like these from Amazon that you can push into the soil all around the houseplant, rather than one larger trap.

Leave the traps in place for at least a month after you stop seeing the fungus gnats, so they catch any new flies that emerge from the soil, and the lifecycle is broken.

6. Quarantine Recovering Plants

I hate to tell you this but one fungus gnat can lay around 300 eggs in its 7–10 days of adult flying life. That means plants can easily be reinfected. If you’re serious about getting rid of sciarid flies for good, it’s best to have three stages of quarantine for your infected houseplants. Your intensive care wing is for plants with visible flies. Your recovery wing is for plants with no visible flies but still have sticky traps to catch hatching adults. Your rehabilitation wing is for plants you’re confident are fully fungus-gnat-free but are keeping away from the rest of your houseplants for an additional month to make doubly sure.

Sciarid flies are weak flyers, which is why you’ll often see them scuttling around pot rims and soil surfaces, so having your three quarantine wings in different rooms is fine, though obviously the further away the infested intensive care unit is from your healthy houseplants, the better.

7. Use Preventative Measures in Addition to Cinnamon

As well as giving the surface of potting soil an occasional light dusting of cinnamon, the best preventive measure against fungus gnats is not overwatering your plants. Compost that’s continually moist creates perfect conditions for eggs to hatch and plant material to decay and provide food for larvae.

Simple moisture meters such as these from Amazon will tell you whether you need to water or not, so there’s no guesswork involved, or trying to remember when you last gave a houseplant a drink.

8. Keep Houseplants Healthy

Because your houseplants aren’t sitting in soggy soil any longer, they’ll suffer less root rot so there’s less decaying plant matter for fungus gnat larvae to feed on. Keeping your plants in tip-top condition will also help keep roots strong, and a few simple measures can make all the difference to their wellbeing.

Check what light conditions each plant needs and move it to an optimum spot. Regularly dusting leaves will allow the plant to make full use of that sunlight with efficient photosynthesis, and a pair of microfiber dusting gloves such as these from Amazon makes it a fun task. Feed with a soluble fertilizer, too. If you mostly have foliage houseplants then a feed that’s high in nitrogen such as Smart Grower Genius+ House Plant Food, available from Amazon, will bring you big, green leaves. If you have a mix of houseplants, look for a more evenly balanced all-purpose indoor plant food such as Purived Houseplant Food, also available from Amazon.

There you have it, houseplants that are free from those darn fungus gnats! As you can see, cinnamon is just one part of my plan to keep my plants fly-free. On its own, cinnamon won’t get rid of a fungus gnat infestation. Nor will cinnamon prevent sciarid flies moving into an unhealthy houseplant that’s providing a perfect family home to raise a few thousand babies. But I do think cinnamon’s anti-fungal properties are helping to create an environment that’s not conducive to fungus gnat infestation, which is a very valuable element in my overall houseplant care plan.

How often do you water a snake plant? These easy to grow succulents are adapted to periods of drought, but they'll reward you with the best growth when they're regularly watered.

That being said, they do require different levels of moisture at different times of the year, so it's not as simple as consistent watering. And snake plants are famously intolerant of standing water, so overwatering can be a real issue.

So, how often to water a snake plant? The answer lies in the time of year, location of the plant, soil type, container, and other factors. Let's take a closer look at this essential part of snake plant care.

When to Water a Snake Plant

Like most commonly grown houseplants, snake plants actively grow during the warmer months of the year when the days are longer. By the time the daytime hours of light are diminishing in September (March in the Southern Hemisphere), the plant begins to go dormant, and will stay dormant until the light levels increase. During its rest or dormant period, a snake plant needs less than half the water it required during its growing phase.

During the growing season, you should water a snake plant when the top couple inches (5 cm or so) feel dry to the touch. During the winter, once per month on average is plenty of water for a snake plant.

How Often Do You Water a Snake Plant?

The exact number of days or weeks between watering any plant will be different due to the time of year and the conditions in which it is kept. Heating and cooling vents both dry plants out faster. The closer your snake plant is to one of these vents, the more frequently it'll need to be watered. The type of pot also matters – unglazed containers tend to dry out sooner because moisture is able to evaporate out of them faster.

The amount and type of soil is important. A snake plant in standard potting soil will remain moist longer than one in gritty cactus soil. A large, mature snake plant that's pot bound in a small pot will also need more frequent watering than a smaller plant in a large container.

And finally, a snake plant in a low light area will require less water than one in bright light.

While these are all real factors, they're not hugely influential, and shouldn't be given too much weight. When in doubt, you should always check by feel.

How Do You Know It's Time to Water a Snake Plant?

There are a few easy visual clues that'll tell you your snake plant needs water. The leaves may be puckered, or the soil might be lighter in color and pulling away from the side of the container.

Another method is to lift the pot – if it's noticeably light, it could probably use some moisture. Another way to tell if you need to water a snake plant is by rapping on the container. If it makes a hollow sound, it's low on water.

Touch is the most accurate gauge. Insert a finger to the second knuckle. If the soil feels dry all the way down, it's time to water your snake plant.

How to Water a Snake Plant

Snake plants can be sensitive to tap water, especially if your municipal supply adds chlorine. Allow the water to sit out overnight to offgas and come to room temperature before adding it to the container. You might also use rainwater or distilled water.

Avoid getting water on the leaves – this could lead to fungal disease.

Once per month in the growing season, soak the plant until water runs from the drainage holes freely. This will remove any excess salts that may build up from fertilizing.

Snake plants, with their broad, attractive leaves, tend to get dusty. The dust will impede transpiration and photosynthesis. Put the plant in the shower to clean the leaves and soak the soil to remove excess salts.

Snake plants are succulents with very shallow root systems and are especially susceptible to root rot with overwatering. This means they should never be allowed to sit in a saucer with water. After watering, wait 15 minutes and tip out any water that has collected in the dish.

Snake Plant Watering Essentials

If you’re a houseplant enthusiast, you probably have at least one spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum). These popular plants are simple to grow and care for and reward you with elegant, arching leaves in green or green and white. They do well in standard pots as well as hanging planters and are among the easiest plants to propagate.

Whether you’re an experienced houseplant parent or just getting started, good spring spider plant care ensures abundant, healthy growth in the months to come.

Here are three things to do for your spider plants now, as the growing season begins.

1. Start Feeding Your Spider Plant

Early spring is when spider plants awaken from winter and begin putting energy into new growth. The growing season carries on from spring, through summer, and even into fall. Now is the time to be sure your plant has enough nutrients to produce lush new growth and plantlets, also known as spider plant babies, the small offshoots that can be used to create new plants.

Spider plants are moderate feeders overall, but the growing season is when they can really benefit from being fertilized. Use a balanced, general liquid or water-soluble houseplant fertilizer diluted to about half the recommended strength. Apply this solution once a month starting in April. Miracle-Gro indoor plant food is available from Amazon and a great general houseplant fertilizer.

Full-strength fertilizer application can be too much for a spider plant, which doesn’t tolerate overfeeding well. Brown tips on the leaves are a typical sign of overfeeding. If you see this, dilute the solution even more or fertilize only every six to eight weeks.

2. Increase Watering Frequency

Water also becomes increasingly important for spider plants as they enter the growing season. During the dormant season, your plant doesn’t need much water and will even tolerate some neglect. As it wakes up for spring, your spider plant needs more water to support new growth.

The goal of watering in spring and summer is to keep the soil consistently moist but never soggy. Your plant won’t tolerate being overwatered or having soggy roots. Be sure the pot drains well and water frequently enough to prevent the soil from becoming totally dry. A good general rule is to let the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil dry out before watering again. Still not sure? A simple moisture meter, available from Amazon, can help you check soil moisture easily.

Spider plants can be sensitive to minerals and salts in water, which leads to browning of the foliage. Ideally, you should use distilled water, but you can also leave tap water out in an open container overnight to let some of the chlorine and fluoride evaporate before using it to water your spider plant. Another good option is to use rainwater.

3. Repot Your Spider Plant

Spider plants don’t need to be repotted every year, but if they do need a new, larger container, spring is the best time to make the move. If your plant is root-bound, it will benefit from getting a roomier pot. Gently lift the plant out of its container to check if it needs a new pot. It is root-bound if the root ball is tight and dense and nearly as large as the container.

Choose a new pot that is a little larger than the old pot. It should be about one-third larger than the root ball. While being cramped in a pot isn’t ideal, spider plants also don’t grow well in containers that are very large. Set the spider plant to the same depth as it was in the smaller pot and fill in the new container with fresh, high-quality potting mix. Rosy Soil's houseplant potting mix, which can be found at Amazon, has biochar and worm castings mixed in for ultimate houseplant nutrition.

This is also a good time to propagate your spider plant. Cut off and place plantlets in new containers. If you don’t have any yet, you can propagate the plant by dividing the root ball. Gently pull it apart into two or more divisions. Be sure each division has several intact roots and repot them in new containers.

April care for your beloved spider plant is all about water, fertilizer, and keeping roots healthy. These simple chores will ensure your plant develops healthy new growth this summer.

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Pothos is one of the easiest houseplants to grow – and it’s effortlessly beautiful as well. No wonder it is so popular among both first-time plant parents and established gardeners. But as easy as this houseplant is to grow, it still requires some special care in spring as the active growing season begins.

To grow pothos plants that are lush and long-lasting, you have to provide them with the proper conditions and care. Luckily, this isn’t hard to do. These low-maintenance houseplants don’t mind low light or a bit of neglect, so they’re practically foolproof.

But if you want your pothos to thrive and not just survive, add these 6 tasks to your to-do list this month. Here’s what your pothos plant needs in March to set it up for a fabulous rest of the year.

1. Give Them a Good Soak

One of the features of the pothos plant that make it low-maintenance is its drought tolerance. During the fall and winter when plants are dormant, they don’t require as much water. But as your pothos wakes up in spring and starts actively growing again, it’s important to give it a good drink.

As spring temperatures rise in March, deeply soak your pothos plants to refresh them and flush out any salt or mineral buildup in the soil. Do this in the sink or a bathtub or even outdoors, if the weather is warm enough.

Do not overwater plants, though. They don’t need a big soak every time they dry out. But one deep watering session in March can help hydrate them well for the warmer months ahead.

2. Freshen Up Their Soil

Spring is the best time to repot houseplants. As they enter the growing season, they need a good potting medium to support strong root growth. You don’t need to repot pothos plants every March – they actually like to be a bit rootbound.

But if it’s been a few years or if you see roots peeking through the drainage holes in the bottom of your pothos’ pot, that’s a sure sign it’s time to repot. If you want to keep your plant in the same pot, you can prune the roots with a sharp, clean pair of pruners. These ones from Fiskars work perfectly.

Then dump the old potting soil into your compost pile or outdoor garden beds – as long as your pothos is pest and disease-free – and refill with a fresh indoor potting mix, like this one from Miracle-Gro.

3. Feed Your Plants

Now is the ideal time to fertilize pothos plants. They don’t have huge feeding needs, but giving them a dose of extra nutrients in spring sets them up for a strong growing season in summer. Use an all-purpose indoor plant food, like this one from Miracle-Gro.

Be careful not to overfertilize your plants, though. Too much nitrogen can cause leggy pothos vines or even fertilizer burn that hurts plants and sets back growth.

If you repotted or refreshed your pothos soil, you don’t need to feed them now. Most high-quality potting mixes include some type of fertilizer, so adding more is overkill.

4. Check for Pests

Plants aren’t the only ones who wake up and start growing again in spring. Pests do, too. This month check your pothos for common houseplant pests like mealybugs, scale, and spider mites. Look on the underside of leaves where many pests like to hide.

If you find any pests on your plants, take them outside and spray them with insecticidal soap, which you can get on Amazon. It’s also a good idea to quarantine pest-infested plants for a while before introducing them back into your houseplant collection. Keep them in a different room for a few weeks, until all signs of pests are gone.

Wiping down plants with neem oil, which is also available on Amazon, is an organic way to prevent pests before they strike. It also gives plants a nice, natural glossy shine.

5. Trim for Bushy Growth

If your pothos is looking scraggly, now is the time to give it a refresh. Pruning pothos plants in spring encourages fuller, bushier plants.

Cut long, leggy stems just above a node at a 45° angle with a pair of sharp, clean scissors. These petite and precise pruning shears from Fiskars are ideal for this purpose.

Though it may seem counterintuitive, cutting back pothos promotes a flush of new growth. And because your plant is just now entering the active growing season, the new vines will be sturdier and lusher than the old growth from last fall and winter.

6. Propagate More Plants for Free

Save those cuttings you just took from your plant – you can use them to propagate more pothos plants for free. Pothos is one of the easiest houseplants to propagate because it sprouts new roots fast with minimal effort.

Take a cutting that’s about 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm) long and remove the bottom couple of leaves to expose a few nodes. Place cuttings in a glass of water, making sure to submerge two or three nodes. That’s where new roots will sprout. Wait a month or two for roots to develop, making sure to refresh the water every few days.

After about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of roots appear, transplant cuttings to a pot filled with indoor potting mix. Alternatively, you can plant cuttings directly into potting mix to root. Dip them in a rooting hormone powder, like this one from Amazon, to help them form roots faster. Then care for them like a regular pothos plant.

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At long last, spring is here, and your houseplants are beginning to stir from their annual slumber. After months of enduring dull light, cold nights, dry home heating, and generally being forgotten about, March is the moment when plants start shifting back into active growth. And for orchids, this is a particularly anticipated time, as the flowering window creaks open.

Just a little extra attention now can make all the difference to how your houseplants grow and flower in the warmer months ahead. March is the perfect time to reset your orchid care routine – adjusting watering, assessing light levels, restarting feeding, and taking some time to check whether your plant needs repotting or any other intervention.

These simple tasks will help to encourage lush, healthy leaves, stronger roots, and give you the best possible chance of getting those spectacular blooms later in the season. And, if all this talk of orchids inspires you to treat yourself to another plant (because, why not? You deserve it!), then BloomsyBox sells a lovely range for home delivery, while Walmart is your go-to for orchids on a budget.

1. Restart Feeding – But Use the Right Fertilizer

In March, your orchid will likely start to push out new roots, which will be particularly noticeable on orchids with fleshy aerial roots like the ever-popular Phalaenopsis. You may have noticed more leafy growth, and if you’re lucky, your plant may already have a new flower spike forming, or buds visible on existing stems of varieties like Dendrobium. This is precisely the moment when your plant needs that extra dose of nutrients.

When fertilizing orchids, a balanced liquid feed is ideal – choose one especially designed for orchids, like Better-Gro Orchid Better Bloom fertilizer on Amazon, which is endorsed by the American Orchid Society. Alternatively, use a regular houseplant feed diluted to a quarter strength. Orchids favor little and often rather than a heavy dose of fertilizer. Just remember the mantra “feed weakly, weekly.”

One important detail is to avoid fertilizing completely dry roots, as it could overwhelm them. If the potting mix feels very dry, then give it a quick rinse with plain water first, then water again with the diluted feed. This prevents fertilizer salts from damaging the roots. I tend to set the whole pot in a jug of water with fertilizer, leave it for a few minutes, then let it drain out before putting it back into its outer decorative pot. Never put your orchid back into its tray or outer pot until it has fully drained through.

You should notice your orchid start to respond fairly quickly to this new routine with plumper, greener roots, lusher leaves, and that all-important flower growth.

2. Check Roots and Repot if Needed

After a few months spent in dormancy, your orchid's roots may need attention. For phal orchids, healthy roots are usually firm and green or silvery, depending on whether they are wet or dry. If you have a clear orchid pot, you should see that they look plump rather than shriveled or brown. For some other types of orchids, the roots may be fine and white, so you will need to examine them more closely for discoloration.

If you suspect your orchid’s roots aren’t looking as good as they should be, then think about repotting. This is necessary at least every couple of years as the potting mix becomes depleted of nutrients and begins to break down, which can lead to holding too much moisture around the roots. If the bark mix in the pot looks like it has darkened, become compacted, or looks finer than it should, then it’s time to repot. Orchids thrive in a loose, airy growing medium that allows enough oxygen to get to the roots.

This Rosy Soil Orchid mix on Amazon is enriched with microorganisms and biochar for improved performance. Don’t go up more than one pot size, though, as orchids like their roots to be a little restricted.

3. Assess Light Levels

As days grow longer in March, the light in your home changes. While your orchid may have been perfectly happy in its winter resting spot, the light levels may now be too low or too bright. Take a moment to assess whether the current spot is meeting your orchid's light requirements.

Most orchids prefer bright but indirect light, such as from an east-facing window. Direct sun from a south-facing window can easily scorch leaves. Try the shadow test if you’re struggling to work out light levels.

The orchid’s leaves are usually a good giveaway. Ideally, these should be mid-green and firm – too dark means not enough light; too pale or sunburnt spots mean too much sun. If your orchid hasn’t bloomed for a while, then increasing light levels is often the answer. Try moving it a bit closer to the window – without exposing it to harsh direct sun.

With brighter days yet to come, finding that light balance now makes all the difference.

4. Check Temperature and Humidity

Orchids may look exotic, yet most of the varieties grown as houseplants are surprisingly happy in normal indoor temperatures – ideally between 65–80°F (18–27°) during the day, with slightly cooler nights. What they can struggle with, however, is dry air, which is more of an issue when heating systems are running in winter and early spring.

Every species of orchid has its own humidity preferences, but most common houseplant species prefer around 40–60%, which is below the levels of many homes in cooler months. When the air is too dry, leaves can look dull and dehydrated, roots can shrivel, and buds drop before they even open.

One simple solution is to place your orchid on a humidity tray, like this one with pebbles from Amazon. As the water slowly evaporates, it creates a slightly more humid pocket of air around the plant without leaving roots sitting in water.

If you grow several houseplants, as well as grouping them, it’s helpful to use a small room humidifier, like this Homemedics one. These raise humidity levels more consistently and benefit not just orchids but other tropical houseplants too.

Making the environment slightly more humid in March will help orchids settle into their spring growth period, encouraging stronger roots, healthier leaves, and better chances of long-lasting blooms when they do arrive.

Orchid Essentials

Looking for more orchid inspiration? Once you’ve mastered the basics of orchid care, why not take things to the next level with a rare or unusual variety – they can be a rewarding challenge as your confidence grows.

Want more ideas like this? Sign up for our newsletter for regular planting inspiration, practical tips, and seasonal advice to help your garden (and houseplants) thrive all year round.

Snake plants are a favorite among many first-time plant parents because they are so easy to grow. You can pretty much ignore them for most of the year, just give them the occasional drink, and they’re fine. But spring is when snake plants enter the active growing season again, so giving them the right care during this time of year is key.

Whether you’re a brand new indoor gardener or you’ve been growing snake plants for decades, there are certain care tasks you need to check off your list this month to ensure your plants thrive for the rest of the year.

Here’s what you need to do to your snake plants in March for lush and healthy growth that lasts all year long.

1. Do Some Spring Cleaning

When dust builds up on leaves over the winter, it can cut down on the amount of light your snake plant gets for the necessary process of photosynthesis. That’s why cleaning houseplant leaves in spring is a great way to give your plant a boost of energy.

Use a damp microfiber cloth or plant cleaning gloves, like these adorable pastel pairs from Amazon, to give your snake plant a thorough wipe-down. You can follow up with a quick spritz of neem oil, which you can also get on Amazon, to give your plants an extra shine.

A dose of neem oil also doubles as prevention and treatment for many common snake plant pests and diseases. If your plants are showing signs of aphids, spider mites, or fungal disease, then a little neem oil can go a long way to getting them healthy for the growing season ahead.

2. Let Plants Soak in the Sun

Snake plants are one of the best houseplants for low-light. But even these shade-lovers can use a boost of sunshine when spring arrives. Move your snake plants to a spot near a window that has bright, indirect light.

If you don’t have much natural light in your home, supplement your snake plants’ light needs with an inexpensive grow light. This LED clip light from Amazon is a great option that’s easy to set up almost anywhere. Just clip it onto a tabletop.

3. Give Them a Big Drink

Snake plants are beloved for their ability to thrive on neglect, including when you forget to water them. But in March, as the growing season begins again, it’s good to give your snake plants a nice, big drink. This will help fuel them for all the growth they have ahead of them.

Bottom watering plants is a fantastic way to give them a little extra love this month. Fill a large dish or shallow bowl with water, then plop your potted snake plant into the water for about 20 minutes or until the soil is evenly moist.

This method of watering snake plants ensures that all their roots are getting the moisture they need, which is sometimes difficult for these plants because they prefer to be rootbound and a bit dry. But when soil is too dry and you water from above, the water just pours through the gaps in the soil without soaking in. Bottom watering prevents this.

4. Repot Your Plants (Maybe)

As I mentioned above, snake plants like to be rootbound. The snugger the pot, the better generally. But eventually it will be time to repot snake plants at some point.

One sure sign it’s time for transplanting is if your snake plant’s roots break your pot. These hard-to-kill houseplants are tough and have strong roots that can crack clay and plastic pots, if they are extremely rootbound.

If you want to avoid hurting your pots and having to buy new ones, then now is a good time to move your snake plants into bigger containers. Only move up one pot size, an inch (2.5 cm) larger diameter than the old pot is just fine. Your snake plants will appreciate being snug in their new container.

When you repot, be sure to fill the new container with a well-draining potting mix. A cactus or succulent potting mix, like this one from Miracle-Gro is ideal.

5. Feed Them

Snake plants are the ultimate low-maintenance houseplants, so they don’t require much fertilizer. But in March, as they start actively growing again for the spring and summer, it’s a good idea to fertilize snake plants with a dose of plant food.

If you repotted your snake plants, they may not need any extra fertilizer because many potting mixes include plant food. If you did not repot and have not fed your snake plants since last spring, then it’s time to give them a nice, nourishing dose of all-purpose indoor plant food, like this one from Miracle-Gro.

Check these easy snake plants care tasks off your to-do list in March and soon your snake plants will be healthier and happier than ever!

Spring Snake Plant Essentials

March can be a tricky time – it’s still not quite spring, but don’t we want it to be? For several of our plants, it’s the tail end of a bitter winter slog, and several are looking decidedly under par. That includes houseplants that might have been spared the harsh weather outside. My peace lily (Spathiphyllum) looks quite winter-weary as we get to the business end of a long cold season. This time last year, I had the same issue.

And here's the thing: I'd just been advised to switch out my morning coffees for something healthier. It was while supping a lukewarm Sencha that I glanced at my lackluster peace lily and thought: well, if it can help me, maybe it could work for her? After months of dry indoor air and low light, her leafy sheen had dulled and she looked like she was hugging her pot. I really wanted to give my peace lily plant a little love. So I gently tipped a bit of green tea into the pot… and waited. (OK, I also had a moment of panic and felt a bit silly about this impromptu soak, but then I waited some more.)

Without wishing to sound glib, this breakfast counter moment has been a game-changer. Plants, like us, appreciate a timely tonic – and March is a critical time if you want to help your favorite houseplants wake up from the winter glums. I understand the temptation to reach for a houseplant fertilizer (and I’ve tested my fair share of feeds), but at this time of year, a gentle approach really helps peace lilies get back in the game. No kidding, what initially felt like a moment of March madness has been a revelation. Here’s why this splash of green tea works wonders for peace lily growth in March, and how a timely infusion can help yours, too.

Why A Green Tea Tonic Works

You might be vaguely skeptical, and I understand. The world is full of faddy tips for this and that, and I am guilty of embracing a few unusual gardening tips (we can come back to those another time). But there is some solid botanical chemistry behind this March tonic. Here’s why a timely infusion can unlock nutrients, boost leaf shine and trigger brilliant white blooms.

Peace lilies are naturally understory plants from tropical rainforests, where they thrive in leaf-littered, slightly acidic soil. Tap water tends to be slightly alkaline, which, over a long winter, can cause a bit of a nutrient lockout. The first thing this green tea infusion does is gently lower soil pH. This acidity acts like a key, unlocking minerals like iron and magnesium that have been sitting in the soil but were unreachable for the plant.

Caring for peace lily plants this way also delivers a dose of tannic acid and polyphenols. These help the plant manage the stress of fluctuating March temperatures and indoor heating. Added to this, you’re delivering a vital dose of nitrogen, a building block for chlorophyll. It’s the direct reason a dull, hungry yellow can shift to that deep, healthy emerald.

All of this from one timely brew! Our cup of green tea tells the plant the growing season has officially begun. There are three key stages to awakening your peace lily with this tonic:

• Days 3-7: The first change isn't color, it's posture (aka turgor). Within the first week, you’ll notice the stance starts to feel sturdier. That fainting drama that peace lilies are famous for lessens as the tea's minerals help the plant's cells hold onto water more effectively.
• Week 2: As the iron becomes available again, the dull winter leaves regain their deep, emerald flush. You’ll look at it a fortnight later, and it’s like someone waved a magic wand over the foliage – the change is genuinely that noticeable.
• Week 4: After a couple of fortnightly infusions, you’ll see the first white beak (or spathe, as we call our peace lily flower) emerging from the center. Because the plant isn't struggling with soil chemistry, these blooms tend to be larger and stay brilliant white for longer.

Make The Perfect March Pick-Me-Up

When it comes to treating your peace lily to this timely tonic, think about dilution and frequency. You aren't looking to give your plant a caffeine jolt – rather, a nutrient-dense infusion the roots can absorb without shock. Think gently when preparing this tonic. To care for peace lily plants, it needs to be not too hot, not too strong, and absolutely no additives.

The process is simple: steep one organic green tea bag in about a pint of boiled water. I personally recommend a high-quality, pure leaf like Numi Organic Gunpowder Green or Rishi Tea Sencha Green Tea Sachets, both available from Amazon. They are both loaded with key antioxidants.

As far as golden rules for peace lily tea making go, it’s simple: never water plants with warm tea. Let it sit for 24 hours until it is room temperature or slightly cool. I also never use the tea neat. Once it's brewed, I dilute it with equal parts regular water. It should be a very pale amber (or pale green, depending on variety) rather than a dark color.

While Matcha is wonderful for us, it’s a bit too concentrated for this tonic. Stick to traditional green tea bags or loose-leaf Sencha for that gentle boost. Add every two weeks from March, until your plant is ready for a more dedicated fertilizer. And be sure to keep it pure, and avoid any green teas with added sugar, honey, or milk.

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To help your peace lily relocate its lush factor with green tea, this is all you need. To make your March plant ritual feel less like a chore and more like a moment, here are a few of my favorite finds for your peace lily March tonic:

Tailoring Your Green Tea Tonic

Just as we all have our preferred tea strength, different peace lilies will have their own needs, based on maturity, size, health, or variety. Whether you're dealing with a dramatic fainter or a peace lily baby, here is how to best adapt the ritual.

If your peace lily looks like it’s given up on life and is in full droop mode, it’s likely too stressed for the standard green tea application. Before you give it a brew, give it a thorough soak with plain, filtered water to rehydrate the roots. Once it has perked up (usually after a few hours), wait two days, and then apply a very diluted, cool green tea chaser. This acts like a recovery tonic, helping the plant regain the minerals it lost during its droopy phase.

If you have a younger plant or one you’ve recently divided, their root systems can be a little sensitive. Use a fine glass mister like the pretty Sincengel Glass Water Mister from Amazon to apply a very weak, room-temperature tea spray directly to the leaves as a foliar feed. Plants can absorb nutrients through their stomata (leaf pores), providing a gentle nitrogen snack without overwhelming delicate new roots.

• Giants (like 'Sensation'): Bigger peace lilies have more leaf area to support, so they need a larger dose or a more regular brew. I give my 'Sensation' a cup and a half of diluted tea to ensure those huge, ribbed leaves stay dark green and don't get hunger spots.
• Variegated (like 'Domino'): Variegated plants are tricky, and too much nitrogen can sometimes cause them to revert to solid green. However, the gentle levels in green tea help variegated varieties maintain their contrasts, keeping white splashes crisp and bright.
• Mini lilies (like 'Cupido'): Smaller peace lilies are prone to salt buildup but also sensitive to overwatering. Only treat them to a tea sip once a month in March and April. Also, try bottom-feeding (placing tea in the saucer) for these smaller guys to avoid soggy stems.

Beyond the Cup: Peace Lily Glow-Up

You’re now well on your way to transforming your peace lily into a lush, air-purifying centerpiece. But while our botanical tea ritual is the internal reset your plant needs, March is also the time for a bit of external TLC. During winter, dust can build up on peace lily leaves like a jacket. This doesn't just look untidy, it physically blocks the plant's breathing pores (stomata) and prevents it from photosynthesizing efficiently.

Gently wipe each leaf from the stem to the tip, using a damp, soft cloth or some wipes. Southside Plant Wipes from Amazon are very gentle, a little goes a long way, and that neem oil can also tackle any possible pests. It’s also a good idea to give your plant a little rotation. As the sun shifts and strengthens, your plant will start stretching toward the window. Give your pot a quarter-turn every time you apply your tea infusion. It ensures a more uniformly lush and bushy look.

March is also a great time to check the roots. If you see them peeking out of the drainage holes or if the tea seems to run straight through the pot, it’s probably time to repot your plant. I love Rosy Soil Potting Mix for Houseplants, available from Amazon, and add a little perlite for drainage. Moving up one pot size (2 inches or 5 cm wider) should be enough. Peace lilies like being a little cozy, so don't give them too much leg room or the soil may stay too damp.

Frequently Asked Questions

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Show me a person who doesn’t love a Christmas cactus and I’ll be shouting ‘bah humbug!’. With arching stems smothered in vibrant flowers, the cascade of color brings such joy to the festive season. And it's ridiculously easy to propagate Christmas cactus, even if you’ve never birthed a baby houseplant before. Do it now and you’ll have strong plants to gift to family and friends by December.

There’s another reason why I always propagate Christmas cactus (Schlumergera x buckleyi) in March. As spring progresses, the increasing light levels and temperature stimulate houseplants back into growth. March 20, in particular, marks an important point in the year for all plants, because that’s when the sun crosses the celestial equator and days become longer than nights. And you can take advantage of the strong growth urge this triggers to propagate houseplants and get your plant babies off to the very best start.

This is also typically a month or two after a Christmas cactus has finished flowering, so it’s ready to direct all its energy into new growth.

Ready to make a super-early start on spreading some festive joy? Here's exactly what to do.

Did you know? A Christmas cactus plant can live for a century or more, so you could be creating family heirlooms.

1. Water Your Christmas Cactus

The day before you plan to propagate the plant, give your Christmas cactus a drink. Its succulent stems are filled with water so, for successful baby-making, you need to make sure they’re fully hydrated.

2. Snap Off Stem Segments

The stems of Christmas cactus grow in segments, and it’s super-easy to snap them. You want sections that are two segments long to propagate so choose a healthy-looking stem, hold the second-from-end segment in one hand and the third-from-end segment in your other hand, then twist. The end of the stem should snap off easily.

If the stem end has started growing in a Y shape, even better as this will give you a bigger baby plant from the get-go. Use the same method to snap off the stem under the segment below the point where it branches.

I find twisting off segments gets far better results than cutting with scissors.

3. Leave The Stem Ends to Heal Over

Just like when we cut ourselves, and our body cleverly seals the wound for protection while it regrows, those stem ends need to callus over. All you need do is lay the segments flat on a hard surface for a couple of days, until you see the ends have dried.

4. Plant in Fast-Draining Potting Mix

You’re going to need a fast-draining potting mix so those fleshy stem ends don’t rot. You can use any purpose-made potting mix for succulents and cacti such as this from Amazon, but I simply mix plenty of perlite (also available from Amazon) into a regular potting mix, to create a half-and-half blend.

You can create several babies in one pot: I tend to propagate four stems in a four-inch pot. Fill your pot with the potting mix, press down lightly, water and leave it to drain for a few minutes. Now you’re going to sink those dried stem ends – make sure you get the right ends! – into the potting mix, just far enough so the segments stand up. Some folk like to bury them up to an inch deep but I find the shallower, the better.

I use a chopstick to create a shallow trough, then stand a segment in it and firm the potting mix around it with my fingers.

Some folk sterilize the stem ends with bleach first, others like to dip them in rooting hormone. I don’t bother to do either and get great results: go figure!

5. Wait for Roots to Grow

The key to success at this point is to remember that Christmas cactus naturally grow in tropical rainforests, not deserts. So, mimic their native environment with heat and even moisture but no direct sunlight.

Find a cozy spot that’s as light as possible without the pot being in direct sunlight, and away from draughts. I always stand pots on a small seedling heat mat like this one from Amazon – they're only a few dollars and cost cents to run, and keep the potting mix at an even 68–86°F. As well as starting this process around the time of the vernal equinox, I put my success down to this consistent heat the mat supplies. I find this method works far better than covering the potted stems with a plastic bag to keep the heat in, when the humidity can lead to rotting or fungal problems.

Aim to keep the potting mix lightly and evenly moist, but be careful not to overwater. I find using a small mister bottle with an adjustable nozzle works well, and do remember you’re watering the potting mix, not the plant.

After around three weeks, you should see signs of growth at the tips of the top segments. That’s a sure sign of success and that roots have begun to grow. It can take a few weeks longer, though, especially if you’re not using a heating mat, so be patient. At this point, you can switch to watering with a can, but use one with a long thin spout so you can be precise. This kit from Amazon with a long-spout watering can and mister bottle is perfect for succulents like Christmas cactus.

6. Move Your Babies Once They're Big Enough

It’s best to leave your Christmas cactus babies growing in the same pot for at least three months, while they develop strong roots. You can give them a little more water once they've rooted, but still aim to provide an even level of moisture. Once roots are at least an inch long, you can transplant each baby into its own small pot with a drainage hole, again using a fast-draining potting mix.

I usually try transplanting just one first, to check the length of root growth. If it’s not quite ready, it may wilt a little but should quickly recover. But there’s no rush, your babies will be fine all together in their first pot for six months.

Once the stems have good roots, you can start feeding them, too. Do use a fertilizer made specifically for succulents and cacti, like this one from Amazon, and use it sparingly, over-diluting it. Too much and you’ll end up with floppy stems.

7. Mimic Native Conditions for Strong Growth

Keep your propagated plants in a bright room but out of direct sunlight still and water sparingly to keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy. I wait until the top inch of soil is dry before I water, which is usually between 1–3 weeks depending on the weather.

Christmas cactus love a warm, humid environment so I pop mine in the bathroom, where the frosted windows diffuse the strong light and hot showers add lots of moisture to the air. Another option to create humidity for optimum growth is to stand the pots on a tray filled with pebbles and water. You can easily make one yourself or, for a decorative touch, look for an ornamental humidity tray used for Bonsai such as this one from Amazon.

The optimum growing temperature ranges from 60–75°F, and you can continue to feed every couple of weeks.

8. Encourage Your Babies to Bloom

It typically takes a year or two before a Christmas cactus is mature enough to bloom, so be sure to tell the lucky new plant parents not to worry if they don’t get flowers this year. But get these babies started at just the right point in the year and they can really surprise you with their vigor!

To encourage blooming, stop fertilizing and gradually reduce watering at the end of summer, and in October, move the plant to a room with no evening light so it gets 12–14 hours of darkness each night.

Try it! When you gift a plant, tie one a tag with care instructions written out to ensure your baby is well looked after.

Indoor plants and outdoor plants lead different lives with different advantages and disadvantages. Indoor plants never get cold, but then again, they never feel real rain on their leaves. Outdoor plants can dig their roots into the soil deep and deeper, but wild rabbits or snails might nibble their foliage.

Despite the differences, indoor and outdoor plants have one big thing in common: both have the same active and inactive growing seasons. This is an important consideration in every aspect of houseplant care, from watering to fertilizing to repotting.

While it is possible to repot houseplants in any month of the year, it’s best to do it during or right before the active growing season. That means early spring is the “Golden Window” for a successful transition. I'll share tips on how to do this task the right way as well as the worst time to repot houseplants.

Repotting Essentials

Best Time to Repot Houseplants

The best time to repot most houseplants is in early spring. The plants are just “waking up” and will soon be entering their active growth phase. This renewal process helps plants shake off the transplant shock.

Their roots sink easily into new, healthy soil, getting them off to a strong start. It also gives them better, quicker water drainage – always a good thing – and provides nutrients for the growing season.

In spring, the weather takes a favorable turn for houseplants, too. The days are longer and the sun is higher and more intense. Houseplants that suffered through the darkness of winter are ready to dance and sing in spring. Actually, the additional sun does help them get growing.

Other Times You Can Repot Houseplants

You can repot in other seasons besides spring, but there are risks to the plant’s health depending on when you repot houseplants. Most of the risks involve transplant shock, when a plant has to struggle to adapt to its new circumstances.

Transplanting in summer can lead to transplant shock. Disturbing the roots is an issue in and of itself, but when combined with summer heat, it can be too much for the plant. Your beloved houseplant can wilt, stop growing, or drop leaves. And never transplant in a heatwave!

In addition, summer has other risks. It’s not a good idea to handle your plant roots too much during their active growth period. It can damage them. If the new soil is too heavy, it can hold onto excess moisture. Warm summer temperatures plus excess moisture can cause root rot.

Fall transplanting can also cause transplant shock, but not from the heat. In fall a plant’s growth and metabolic rates slow. If you see wilting, yellowing leaves, or slow growth, it could be transplant shock. Sunlight is also reduced in fall and that can hinder recovery. Since plants are not actively growing in fall, they cannot grow their roots into the new soil.

But that’s not all. As temperatures drop in autumn, plant growth slows and less water is required. New soil often holds more water than old, depleted soil, and this can lead to soggy soil, triggering root rot.

Worst Time to Repot Houseplants

Winter is the worst time to repot houseplants. There are many reasons for this. First, most plants are dormant in winter. That means the plant’s growth has ceased for the year, which has profound repercussions when it comes to repotting.

If you repot at this time, the plant is in a sleeping state. It cannot push its roots deep into the new soil or take advantage of the nutrients available. This can not only cause transplant shock, but can actually lead to the death of your houseplant.

In addition, winter brings reduced light and lower temperatures. These conditions do not help houseplants at all. In fact, they can make recovery after repotting very difficult. Without sufficient light, plants have a harder time adjusting to new soil. In short, winter is the worst time to transplant. Opt for one of the other seasons instead.

Do You Have to Repot Every Year?

Just because you find yourself in the "Golden Window" for transplanting in spring, that doesn’t mean you should rush to repot every pothos and fiddle leaf fig in your house. Not every houseplant needs to be transplanted every year. In fact, most houseplants only need repotting every three years.

How can you tell if it’s time? Look at the soil. Is it compacted so that water doesn’t flow through? Does the pot dry out quickly after being watered? Both are signs that it’s time to transplant. So is slow growth and plants that are too tall for their pots.

If the roots have taken over much of the pot, the condition is known as being root bound. You might see roots peeking out on the top of the soil or coming out of the drainage holes. You’ll have to prune back those roots, then repot your houseplants.

Jade plants are popular houseplants and can live 50 years or longer if properly cared for. These plucky succulent plants are native to South Africa and Mozambique but bring endless charm to houseplant collections all over the world. They are associated with growth, luck, and prosperity. All good things to carry us through the year!

Proper care of jade plants includes changing care habits throughout the year as their growth patterns shift. Cooler, shorter days in winter mean reducing watering and being more hands-off. But in March, jades begin to leave dormancy and enter their active growth stage. It is important to pay attention to this shift and adjust care accordingly.

Here is what to do with a jade plant in March to set it up for healthy growth this spring and summer.

1. Prune

Jade plants can get leggy through the fall and winter as they stretch for sunlight. March is a good time to prune a jade plant to keep it looking healthy and well-shaped. Jades also have a tendency to become top heavy as they continue to grow, so this can also be remedied with a nice pruning. Any shriveled or dead branches should also be pruned.

When pruning your jade plant, use sterilized pruning tools to avoid transferring any pests or disease to the plant. It is also good to ensure your shears or snips are sharp so the cuts are clean and the plant stem doesn’t get crushed and damaged. These ergonomic pruning shears from Modern Sprout, through Amazon, are made from carbon steel for long-lasting sharpness (and they’re pretty cute, too!) When you trim a jade plant, two new branches will grow from where it was cut, so it will become thicker and bushier.

2. Increase Water

The increases in sunlight and temperature through March send your jade plant into its active growing season. With active growth, comes more demand for water. Water your jade plant when the top inch of soil is dry and be sure to not to let it be dry for more than a day during the spring and summer months. You can also use a simple moisture meter like this one from Amazon to keep an eye on things below the surface of the soil.

Jades enjoy consistent watering during this phase, but make sure the soil doesn’t stay soggy. A well-draining soil mix will keep the right balance of water so your jade will thrive. A succulent mix works well.

3. Fertilize

When you begin to see new growth on your jade plant in March, it is time to start a fertilizing regimen. Jade plants like a balanced fertilizer diluted in water applied every other month. The spring and summer growing season increases the need for nutrients and regular fertilizing will help your jade plant produce strong new growth and maybe even some flowers next winter!

Dilute a water soluble 20-20-20 fertilizer to half or a quarter before applying to slightly moist soil. This Miracle-Gro succulent plant food, available from Amazon, is a great fertilizer for your jade plant and will help boost new growth.

4. Repot

Jade plants typically outgrow their pots within a year or two, and March is the perfect time to repot them. Jades are good growers and tend to get top heavy as they mature, so repotting will help give them some room and make sure they don’t topple over.

Choose a container that is no more than 2 inches (5 cm) larger than the root ball of the jade plant and has a drainage hole so it doesn’t become waterlogged. It’s also a good idea to choose a pot that has some heft to it so the plant is less likely to tip over. For a smaller jade plant, a 4 to 6-inch (10-15 cm) diameter pot like this handcrafted Bergs pot from Magnolia is the perfect fit.

Use a well-draining succulent potting mix and a little compost to set your repotted jade up for success. Miracle-Gro succulent mix, available from Amazon, is specially formulated for succulents and their needs.

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A houseplant that looked lush last fall can come out of winter unrecognizable, reaching awkwardly toward whatever light it can find, with lonely leaves spaced too far apart on long, nearly naked stems, like it’s performing a slow-motion escape act. This is known as plant etiolation, and it’s the result of stretching to chase insufficient light. The stems get ahead of everything else, elongating faster than any fullness can develop. It's not a great look, and it can feel like your plant has lost its way.

Your instinct might be to leave the plant alone to recover, but leggy stems don't fatten up on their own. Those long, spindly gaps between leaves (the internodes) aren't going to fill back in just because the days are getting longer, and no amount of pep talks will turn a telephone-wire stem into a bushy one. In this situation, some savvy houseplant care and intervention is needed – and that means targeted trimming.

Pruning might feel counterintuitive. Why cut off the very growth the plant worked so hard to produce? But that leggy growth is a drain and will never look better on its own. Done right, cutting redirects energy into dormant lateral buds, producing the new branching that makes a plant look full again. It's a faster, more reliable path back to health and vitality than merely sitting it out – and brings with it the promise of a spring explosion of growth that is thicker, stronger, and lovelier. So here’s how to transform your weary, etiolated plants from leggy to lush with some righteous snips.

Why Stems Don’t Fix Themselves

A stretched stem is essentially locked in. The plant dumped its resources into length rather than strength, with thin cell walls, long internodes, and practically zero branching. None of this restructures on its own once set. New growth keeps emerging from the tip, but those wide gaps between the old leaves won’t close up, and a bare lower stem just stays bare.

Leave it another season under the same low light, and things tend to drift further in the wrong direction. The plant will keep chasing upwards rather than spreading out, so the base gets barer and the top leggier. The dormant buds tucked into the leaf axils along the stem are the key here.

The secret lies in these nodes, the points where a leaf attaches to the stem. Every node has one of those dormant buds held in check by hormones at the plant's growing tip. When you remove that tip with some houseplant pruning, the hormone suppression drops, the lateral buds wake up, and the plant pushes out new shoots from multiple points along the stem instead of just one.

That’s where the fullness comes from. It’s redirected energy, not magic. A targeted trim is the secret to waking up dormant buds, reviving leggy houseplants for a fuller, bushier spring.

How to Make the Perfect Cut

The cut needs to land just above a leaf node, within about a quarter inch (6 mm) of where a leaf meets the stem. It needs to be close enough that the stub left above the bud doesn't die back far enough to damage it, but far enough away that you don't nick the bud. Most houseplant stems show nodes as a slight thickening or joint.

If you’re working with tiny nodes on a plant like a string of hearts or a delicate Ivy, use a magnifying tool to ensure you aren't damaging the bud. You can buy the Carson LumiLoupe 10X Stand Magnifier from Amazon, which is perfect for hands-free inspection of tiny nodes ahead of pruning, as well as checking for pests.

A node with a healthy leaf attached is the one to aim for – good leaf, good bud, generally speaking. How far back depends on the stem. Mildly stretched growth often responds well to taking off a third, enough to release those lateral buds without stressing the plant much.

But if the stem is bare from the soil up with a tuft of leaves only at the tip, going back by half or two-thirds gets more nodes involved and produces a fuller flush of new growth. Bear these cuts in mind for specific plants:

• Vining plants: Cut back to the last full leaf with a pothos or philodendron. You can even propagate some of the cuttings in water.
• Upright trees: Notching or cutting the main trunk of a plant like a fiddle leaf fig or rubber plant encourages the tree to branch out rather than growing a single tall stick.
• Bushy plants: With a coleus or a tradescantia, pinch off the very tips of every stem to encourage a massive flush of side-growth.

Selecting the Right Pruning Tools

Clean cuts matter. A ragged tear at the stem creates a larger wound surface and a higher chance of rot or disease getting in while the plant is working to push new growth. For soft stems, use sharp plant scissors or precision snips for delicate work. To prune houseplants with confidence, Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon are great for fiddly corners and thin stems. The Premium Houseplant Scissors from Amazon are also a comfortable investment, and look lovely.

For woodier stems like those of a rubber plant or fiddle leaf fig, use a quality pruner with a bypass blade that slices cleanly rather than pinching. Felco’s F2 One-Hand Pruning Shears from Amazon are great for thicker branches. Don’t forget to wipe your blades with rubbing alcohol before moving from one plant to the next. Pests and fungi make cunning hitchhikers. The excellent Vi-Jon Swan Isopropyl Alcohol from Amazon is worth buying as a double pack.

Which Houseplants Respond Best

Knowing how to trim houseplants the right way for business relies in part on the plant itself. Soft-stemmed foliage plants are the most reliable candidates. Pothos, philodendron, tradescantia (aka inch plants), coleus, and anything pliable will push visible new growth within a couple of weeks once they're back in decent light.

Woody types like ficus, rubber plant, and schefflera also respond well – just on a slower clock. New buds here can take 3-4 weeks to start visibly moving. However, succulents and cacti don't respond to node pruning the way foliage plants do, so it’s better to leave those alone or research their specific needs separately.

Variegated plants may sometimes throw a plain green shoot from a reactivated bud. That green growth is more vigorous than the variegated portions and can crowd things out if left unchecked, so pinch it back early. It’s a small price to pay for a healthy, bushy houseplant.

Best Houseplant Aftercare

Once the pruning is done, your plant is in recovery mode. One key element of knowing how to prune houseplants for bushiness lies in the post-pruning plant care. Light is the biggest factor in how well (and how fast) things recover. Move your plant to the brightest window. If natural light is weak or limited, using a good grow light for 12–14 hours a day can genuinely influence how densely new growth fills in. I’m a fan of the Spider Farmer SF600 Full Spectrum Grow Light from Amazon.

Hold off feeding indoor plants for a bit after pruning. Fertilizer can stress a freshly cut plant. Wait until you see the first nub of new green growth. Then apply a diluted balanced fertilizer like Jobe’s Organics Granular All-Purpose Fertilizer from Amazon every couple of weeks. Be careful not to overwater in the first couple of weeks. A moisture meter or hygrometer like the XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon gives you a reliable way to check soil moisture before you hydrate.

Finally, rotate your houseplant 90 degrees every week, so new buds get even light exposure. Try a trolley or caddy like the Style Selections 16-Inch Clear Plant Caddy from Lowe’s to help rotate heavy pots. Do all this, and your houseplants are sure to be fuller and better shaped by late spring than they were coming into the year.

Frequently Asked Questions

Houseplant Care Essentials

Targeted trimming is one part of your overall houseplant healthcare routine as the dark days of winter make way for the anticipated fresh growth of spring. Make some room for this curated trio of indoor plant essentials to promote lush, bushy growth.

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Bringing greenery indoors is nothing new, but there are ever-increasing ways to incorporate nature into our home design. Welcoming plants into our living environments can actually reduce stress levels. And they look great, too!

Biophilic design in homes uses plants and natural elements to nurture our mental and physical wellbeing. Plants can calm us and bring some much needed serenity to your indoor spaces. (Even fake plants can have a positive effect!)

The MITTZON frame from IKEA is a clever room divider that features planters so you can have a living wall in your home. This boost of green is sure to help you feel connected to the natural world.

The MITTZON planter allows you to divide up a larger space or give an area of your house a private, oasis-like makeover. Creating a living wall is often a pricey endeavor, but this budget-friendly frame is easier on the budget than a traditional living wall.

The casters on the base of MITTZON allow you to effortlessly move the planter so you can move plants closer to a window for a boost of light, or if you want to change your space and bring the verdant vibrancy to another room.

One thing that I particularly love is that this sturdy planter unit is more than 6 and half feet tall (205 cm)! It is a true room divider and living wall in one.

What to Grow in IKEA’s MITTZON Frame

MITTZON is the perfect solution for home chefs who want a convenient kitchen garden but don’t have the right outdoor space. You can grow herbs like thyme, rosemary, oregano, basil, marjoram, lavender, and more. Growing lettuces and salad greens in succession plantings will ensure you have a continual source of delicious leafy vegetables. And you can even grow a lovely dwarf tomato plant or two!

I would suggest adding some nice grow lights to the planter frame to ensure your veggies get enough light. These Barrina full-spectrum grow lights from Amazon have kept my plants and seedlings happy year after year.

If houseplants are more your vibe, MITTZON is a great planter for all of those low-light beauties. Plant ferns, ivy, spider plants, and philodendrons to add to the green wall effect. Their leaves and vines will drape down over the side of the planter boxes and really fill in the space. A serene and relaxing plant wall helps manage stress while also looking great.

More Options

In addition to IKEA’s MITTZON planter frame, there are some other wonderful options to use the vertical space in your home to display plants and create biophilic zones of relaxation.

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They say that water runs off a duck’s back. That’s perfectly normal given the specialized, waterproof coating the duck’s glands produce. But it isn’t normal at all when your houseplant soil repels water. Your potting soil has probably become hydrophobic. Hydrophobic literally means fear of water.

Do you have a plant that seems not to absorb moisture? You pour water into it, then, a minute later, it all comes out the drainage holes. Look closer and you'll see that the water has slid down the inside walls of the container, completely missing the inner soil. This means your potting soil has become hydrophobic. Caring for houseplants that are hydrophobic isn’t difficult if you know what to do.

The Great Disappearing Act: When Water Won't Soak In

There's little in life more rewarding than watering thirsty plants. The potting soil starts pale and dry; it finishes dark brown and moist. Perhaps the foliage is wilting a little and it quickly perks up and looks happy again. You feel good, and the plant does too.

There is little more frustrating than watering a thirsty plant that also happens to have hydrophobic soil. What is hydrophobic soil? Very simply, it's soil that won’t absorb moisture. The water just won’t sink into the soil even with regular watering, and your houseplant becomes stunted.

Why February Is the Breaking Point for Indoor Soil

February is the month of transition for houseplants as they move from winter dormancy to spring growth. That makes it a breaking point for houseplant soil. It is suddenly called upon to support new growth but is not fully recovered from winter.

During winter dormancy, potting soil gets compacted as it settles, and it is also depleted of nutrients. At the same time, the increasing sunlight nudges the plants to start spring growth. The roots have a hard time growing in packed soil.

Telltale Signs

Thirsty plants ask for a drink of water in many easily recognizable ways. The leaves droop and may hang down. They may also develop brown tips, wrinkle, or even drop leaves or flowers. Another “thirst test” is to pick up the pot. Is it extremely light for its size? That’s a sign that the soil is very dry and probably compacted. Poke a finger in. If it’s dry, you’ll know it.

A friend ghosts you when they just stop communicating – failing to answer your calls or texts. A plant is said to be ghosting you if they seem to ignore you. If the houseplant doesn't show the classic signs of being thirsty, it probably isn’t. Just because the foliage looks a bit faded or the growth seems slow doesn't mean it's a cry for water.

Hydrophobia Prevention Shopping List

Is It Hydrophobia or Something Else?

We're all plant detectives at heart. Something is wrong with our favorite houseplant – it's drooping or has browning leaves – what can it be? Does the plant have hydrophobia, or is it ill with another health issue?

1. You have hydrophobic plants when your potting soil becomes so dry that it becomes waxy and repels water. If you water the plant well but the center of the soil remains bone dry, hydrophobia is the likely diagnosis. You can also check the soil – does it feel dry and dusty?’ Does the pot feel inappropriately light?
2. You may be looking at root rot if your plant has wilting, limp, brown or yellow leaves. Think of root rot as the opposite of hydrophobia. Although the plants may look hydrophobic from the soil up, the soil is not dry but heavy and damp. Pop the rootball out of the container and look for black, stinky or mushy roots.
3. If your houseplants have leaves that are wilting or curling and crispy, they may be suffering from stress. The most likely cause of environmental stress in houseplants is location. A plant located near an AC unit or a heater will almost certainly be suffering from stress.
4. One more possible cause of brown, crispy leaves: nutrient deficiency or fertilizer burn. If your houseplants have leaves with browning tips, they may need more nutrients – but they also may be suffering from too much fertilizer salt.

How to Bottom Water

Now that we’ve defined hydrophobic houseplants, it’s time for the $1,000 question: how to fix hydrophobic soil? We are here to walk you through it. Think of this as a vital late-winter rescue mission – the ultimate February refresh ahead of spring. The only “equipment” you need for this treatment is a sink, or a bucket of water.

Before you jump in, consider removing an inch of topsoil. This is only necessary if the soil is extremely water repellent, but it can’t hurt with any houseplant.

Now, off to the sink (or bucket). This is far and away the easiest remedy for water repellent soil.

1. Add a few inches of tepid water to the sink (or bucket).
2. Pick up your houseplant and place the bottom of the container in the water. If the container floats up, add small rocks to the pot to weigh it down.
3. Keep the plant pot in the water for two hours. Use a chopstick to poke holes in the soil to help the water penetrate during the soak.
4. Remove the container and let it drain in an empty sink.
5. As an option, you can consider adding a little liquid wetting agent and a little liquid fertilizer to the sink before you give the houseplant a long drink. It’s not necessary, but will support root growth.

Should You Repot?

It’s never a bad idea to repot hydrophobic indoor plants, and it may be essential if they're severely root-bound. If your plant has roots emerging from drainage holes or soil that has completely broken down, it's time to repot.

How to Prevent Hydrophobia

Keep your soil from becoming hydrophobic by establishing a consistent watering routine. Use a bottom watering system at least once a month. It’s also a good idea to repot each houseplant every year. Be sure that your potting soil incorporates components that retain water, like coco coir. This coco coir from Amazon is super cheap and expands to 15 quarts when wet.

Got the winter blues? These cute houseplant decorations are a fast, affordable way to bring style into your home and a smile to your face. There are so many types to choose from that it’s easy to find a match to your home interior vibe, from modern to retro, minimalist to full-on boho. You could add a chichi stake to a snake plant, light up your cactus with a suncatcher, or turn your Monstera into a whimsical monster with a pair of magnetic eyes.

There are plenty of on-trend houseplant decorations that are as practical as they are pretty, too, such as supports to stop stems flopping or a trellis to turn a trailing houseplant into an eye-catching climber. As well as adding chic details to your urban jungle, you can use houseplant charms to accentuate an interior design element or tie a room scheme together. And if you’re giving a plant to a friend, then adding a sweet stake will instantly turn a run-of-the-mill present into a super-thoughtful gift.

Some houseplant decorations cost less than $5, and they’re just the thing to cheer you up on these dull winter days as we wait for spring to begin. Which is the right match for your favorite houseplant?

Light-Show Suncatchers

These mini suncatcher stakes don’t just adorn a plant with a cute crystal, they shower a rainbow light show all around whenever the sun’s out. They’re a great choice for houseplants that like basking in direct light and enjoy a sunny spot on a sill or in front of a window, such as cacti, Sansevieria, Yucca or pineapple plant.

Upgrade-a-Gift Stakes

A houseplant makes a great gift for anyone and everyone, whether that’s a birthday present, an end-of-semester thankyou for a teacher or a get-well-soon thought for a dear friend. Add a cute low-cost stake, however, and you’ll turn even a budget succulent bought from the grocery store into a fabulous offering.

Character Eyeballs

Here’s looking at you, baby! We challenge you not to chuckle when you add some personality to your favorite houseplant with a pair of eyes. Whether you choose stakes that push into the soil or magnets that clip onto the leaves, these are sure to put all eyes on your houseplant collection.

Stylish Stem Supports

A houseplant support not only allows you to keep a climbing plant tidy, it can turn a trailing vine into a really unusual shape. Use supports to show off pretty leaves, too – just imagine using wall clips to string the beautiful heart-shaped leaves of Philodendron scandens high across a room like a garland. Many trailing houseplants are happiest in shade or indirect light, too, so a gold-toned support is a good way to bring a glimmer to a darker corner.

Tiny Decor, Huge Drama!

Play with the sense of scale by adding a decoration that thinks your houseplant is a full-sized tree. Whether you want to turn your Kentia palm or Philodendron into a tropical-look jungle with a colony of chameleon ornaments, or delight your kids with a dinosaur pot hugger that seems intent on devouring some lush leaves, these decorations are a whole lot of fun.

On-Trend Tentacles

We honestly have zero idea where this houseplant trend has sprung from, but it’s currently huge and we’re totally on board with it! Add a set of curvy octopus tentacles to any houseplant and you’ll instantly add a modern twist as well as ocean intrigue. They work well with all plants but particularly ferns or plants such as peace lilies or Dracaena whose arching leaf shapes mirror the ornaments’ shapely curves.

Brown spots on fiddle leaf fig leaves frustrate plant owners everywhere. They can point to a few different issues. But determining the correct diagnosis stops the spread fast and lets healthy new growth take over damaged areas.

Fiddle leaf figs show brown spots when stress hits hard enough to kill leaf tissue. Those marks are permanent – dead cells do not recover – but your plant will put out fresh leaves once conditions stabilize. Spotting the pattern early makes all the difference.

Crispy edges, dark patches, and yellow halos can all appear similar at first glance. But understanding the exact causes and the solutions to each one help plants recover fast. I'll teach you how to identify the cause of brown spots on your plant and how to follow basic fiddle leaf fig care guidelines to prevent other issues before they begin.

Why Are There Brown Spots on My Fiddle Leaf Fig?

Brown spots on leaves of fiddle leaf fig plants develop from several stressors that damage leaf cells in different ways. Location on the leaf, texture, and the speed of spread give the clearest clues to the cause. Figuring out the exact trigger lets you make care adjustments quickly and saves plants.

Dead tissue turns brown and stays that way no matter the cause. So the real fix is to focus on halting new damage while the plant replaces affected leaves over time. Your patience will pay off when new growth comes in clean and the underlying issue is resolved.

Minor damage or even sap oxidizing can cause small reddish-brown marks, too, though those marks usually remain isolated. Keep reading for the most common causes of brown spots on fiddle leaf figs and how to solve them.

1. Overwatering

Overwatering remains the top culprit for brown spots on fiddle leaf fig leaves. Soggy soil cuts off oxygen to roots, leading to root rot that blocks water and nutrient uptake. Brown spots start at edges, often with yellow halos, and multiple leaves suffer at once. Yellowing lower leaves and premature drop follow close behind.

Plants look limp even when soil stays wet, which is a dead giveaway. Advanced rot sometimes brings a sour, unpleasant smell from the pot. Let the top 2-3 inches (5-8 cm) dry out completely before watering again.

Severe cases will require you to repot your fiddle leaf fig after trimming mushy black roots back to the firm white tissue. A well-draining potting mix like this from Amazon helps prevent recurrence. Always empty saucers after watering to avoid standing water.

2. Underwatering

Not giving your plants enough water essentially dries the leaves out from the inside, leaving crispy brown patches that show up across the middle more than the edges.

Touch the leaves and if they feel papery and brittle like an old newspaper, then that's a sign of underwatering. The leaves usually curl in tight before brown spots get bad. During really dry spells, soil shrinks back from the pot sides giving a clear sign of the need for more water.

Drying hits harder near heating vents or in rooms that have low humidity. Whole branches will wilt if left too long. Water deeply when the top 2 inches (5 cm) of soil feel dry, soaking right through until the water runs out the bottom of the plant.

Steady moisture without wild swings keeps plants healthy. A good deep soak every couple weeks in summer actually mimics the heavy rains fiddle leaf figs know in their native habitat.

3. Bacterial & Fungal Infections

Bacterial leaf spots are dark – sometimes black – with those telltale yellow halos and an oily or wet appearance. Bacterial diseases hang on stubbornly indoors, so act fast if you notice these types of brown spots on fiddle leaf fig plants.

Fungal leaf spots stay more circular, edges sharp, and occasionally show rings like a target. Both take off fast when leaves are left damp too long.

Stale air and water sitting on foliage can invite both of these problems. Overhead watering or high humidity without any breeze makes things worse. Cut away affected leaves all the way down to the stem and toss them in the trash. Don't compost them or you may spread the problem to other plants. Sharp pruning shears like these from Amazon give clean cuts without mangling leaf tissues.

4. Too Much Direct Sunlight

Sunburn turns up as pale tan or light brown patches, always on the side that faces the strongest light. It happens quickly. You may move a plant to a sunny window and potentially damage it the same day, especially with hot afternoon rays from south or west-facing windows. Scorched spots sometimes bleach out first before going fully brown.

Fiddle leaf figs can manage bright indirect light just fine, but they will cook under direct beams. Sudden exposure basically fries the cells. Pull the pot back a couple feet or hang sheer curtains to soften the light. Turn your plant every few months so all sides get even light. Ease plants into brighter spots slowly if more sun seems necessary – the shock can be devastating otherwise.

5. Low Humidity

Dry air indoors crisps up leaf tips and edges quite quickly. Browning starts right at the tips, tiny at first, then creeps down the margins. Winter heating dries out rooms and over time whole edges of leaves may turn brittle and snap, if brushed.

Fiddle leaf figs like 40-60% humidity. Unfortunately, most homes dip lower, especially in the cold months. That means leaves lose moisture quicker than roots can replace it in arid conditions.

Increase humidity with a humidifier close by your plants or use a pebble tray with water under the pot. A reliable humidifier, like this one from Amazon, keeps levels steady without constant tweaking. Grouping a few plants together also builds a humid pocket that helps, too.

6. Inconsistent Watering

Swinging between heavy soaking and bone-dry soil stresses out roots, but it's a common watering mistake many gardeners make. Random brown spots will pop up without clear patterns across leaves. The plant struggles to move water evenly and new growth often emerges small or distorted from the chaos of inconsistent watering.

Stable moisture matters far more than exact frequency – way more. Those drought-flood swings don't mimic anything these tropical plants ever see in their native habitat.

Check soil every few days and water when the top 2 inches (5 cm) dry out. A regular routine keeps shock away and growth steady. A simple moisture meter, like this 4-in-1 option from Amazon, takes out the guesswork.

How to Treat a Fiddle Leaf Fig With Brown Spots

Consistent care pretty much stops brown spots on fiddle leaf figs cold. Bright indirect light, even moisture, and moderate humidity all provide the stable setup that fiddle leaf figs need. Moving plants around too often stresses them out. Big temperature drops below 60°F (15°C) or sudden drafts add a risk nobody wants.

Brown spots that are already there will stay put, but fresh leaves will come in clean once conditions settle. With steady attention your fiddle leaf fig plant will fill out again, pushing out glossy new foliage that covers older damage over time. Checking leaves regularly catches small issues early, keeping your plants thriving for years.

Fiddle Leaf Fig Care Essentials

If you’ve spent any time on 'PlantTok' or Instagram lately, you’ve probably seen that one houseplant in particular has been making a serious splash... and for good reason.

Once upon a time, it was one of those rare houseplants that was almost impossible to track down – almost like a high-stakes scavenger hunt. If you were lucky enough to find even a teeny-weeny cutting, you'd have to part with a lot of dollar to bring that unique indoor plant home with you.

Now, though, things have changed. Indeed, thanks to its soaring popularity, the stunning Scindapsus pictus (often called the Satin Pothos or Silver Vine) is now a staple at big-box garden centers. Which is very good news for anyone who's in the mood for a hard-to-kill houseplant with status.

Meet the Satin Pothos

With its heart-shaped, matte green leaves splashed with iridescent silver markings, the Satin Pothos looks like it belongs in a high-end botanical garden, yet it’s about as fussy as a common Pothos.

Read: not very fussy at all.

How to Care for a Satin Pothos

These little beauties only need watering when the top two inches of soil feel bone dry (or when the leaves start their "taco curl"), are suited to life in medium to bright indirect light, and are surprisingly chill about humidity levels in spite of their tropical plant status.

And the best part about Scindapsus? It has a "tell." Unlike some plants that just die out of spite, the Satin Pothos actually communicates its needs. In fact, when it’s thirsty, its leaves will curl inward slightly; all you have to do is give it a drink, and within a few hours, it perks right back up.

As such, it’s the perfect "introductory" rare plant for someone who wants the aesthetic of an exotic collection without the stress of a complicated humidity and fertilization schedule.

Still, before you rush off to find one for yourself, it's worth taking the time to ask yourself a very important question: which Satin Pothos is right for you?

Shop the Best Satin Pothos Varieties:

Oh yes, with so many varieties of this gorgeous houseplant to choose from, you've every chance of finding one that suits your personality (every bit as well as your birth month houseplant would, even).

And once you have one Scindapsus, you essentially have an infinite supply, as they are incredibly easy to propagate. All you have to do is snip a vine just below a "node" (those little brown bumps on the stem), pop it in a glass of water on your windowsill, and wait. Within a few weeks, you’ll have a fresh set of roots and a stunning new plant baby to care for.

Essentially, whether you let it trail down from a bookshelf or train it to climb a moss pole (which actually makes the leaves grow larger!), the Scindapsus is a "set it and forget it" dream.

If you haven't added this silver-splashed stunner to your collection yet, then, now is the perfect time to grab one… no specialized greenhouse required.

Mid-February quietly adds 40 to 80 minutes of daylight across the US, depending on location—enough to wake houseplants from their winter slowdown. They notice first, shaking off dormancy with sudden new leaves and thirstier soil, often catching owners off guard while everything outside still looks bare.

February drags on with gray skies and days that still feel too short. Houseplants coasted through the darkest weeks in low light, growth basically stalled, but mid-February the 10-hour light trigger starts to flip almost everything for many spots across the US.

Plants sense day length through receptors tucked in leaves—pretty reliable little sensors. Once daylight stretches consistently past 10 hours, dormancy can start to crack open. Knowing how light affects the growth of plants helps explain why indoor favorites suddenly push fresh shoots even while outside stays bare. The shift comes fast—northern areas pick up the most minutes through February, while southern spots hit the threshold earlier with smaller jumps. January care routines stop working and it is time to shift care as the light grows.

The 10-Hour Light Trigger

Most houseplants use day length as their main seasonal signal, not temperature. Once daylight hits roughly 10 hours, something triggers inside them. Dormant buds activate. Metabolism speeds up.

This varies by species some, but 10 hours is the average tipping point for common favorites like pothos, philodendrons, and snake plants. By mid-February, even northern states get 10-plus hours. Plants near windows catch these changes immediately.

What to Watch For

New leaf buds show up at stem tips. Small bumps or unfurling points that weren't there before. Growth happens quick once it starts—a bud can become a full leaf within days on vigorous plants.

Existing leaves look brighter or stand more upright as chlorophyll production ramps back up. Plants that drooped slightly during winter perk up without watering changes. Stems stretch between leaf nodes, creating visible elongation. Some plants flower unexpectedly. African violets, and certain species of orchids often bloom from increasing light rather than specific temps.

Care Changes to Make

As your houseplants begin to wake up, your care routine needs to shift with their changing needs. Here are the adjustments you need to make as the light returns this February.

Watering Changes

Winter watering schedules stop working once growth resumes. Dormant plants use minimal water. Growing plants need way more. Soil that stayed moist two weeks in January might dry completely in five days come late February.

Check soil every few days instead of following a rigid schedule. Stick a finger 1-2 inches (2.5-5cm) down, or use a meter like this 4-in-1 from Amazon. Dry at that depth means water thoroughly until it runs out the bottom.

Don't wait for wilting since that stresses plants during early growth. Increase watering gradually as new growth appears. Plants near south or west windows need more frequent water than dimmer spots.

Feeding Changes

Resume fertilizing once new growth shows, not before. Feeding dormant plants wastes fertilizer and can burn roots not actively absorbing nutrients. Wait for actual leaf development or bud swelling.

Start with half-strength liquid fertilizer every two weeks. Full strength can shock plants coming out of dormancy. Increase to normal strength by March once growth is vigorous. Miracle-Gro indoor plant food from Amazon is convenient and effective.

Light Position Changes

Windows that barely worked in December might offer too much by late February as sun angle changes. It is important to assess light levels for your houseplants. South-facing windows especially shift from winter's low angle to spring's more direct hit. Plants can sunburn from sudden intensity.

Watch for bleaching, brown spots, or curling edges. Move sensitive plants back from glass or add sheer curtains to create indirect light. North-facing windows might need plants moved closer to capture increasing light. Rotate plants weekly so they don't grow lopsided from directional window light.

Humidity Changes

Heat from the increase in sun combined with your furnace running can dry out air even more than earlier in the winter. New plant growth is more susceptible to dry air than mature leaves resulting in crispy edges or stunted development when humidity drops too low.

Luckily, there are some easy ways to humidify your houseplants in winter. Group plants together to create localized humidity. Place pebble trays under plants or use humidifiers like a Levoit cool-mist humidifier from Amazon to maintain 40-50% humidity.

Issues to Avoid

Overwatering kills more plants during this shift than underwatering. People see new growth and panic-water too often, drowning roots that haven't fully activated yet. Let soil dry slightly between waterings.

Repotting too early stresses plants just starting growth. Wait until late March or April when growth is vigorous. Ignoring the light shift entirely is the biggest mistake though. Plants that don't get adequate water and nutrients to support growth prompted by longer days end up stunted or dropping leaves.

February Care Essentials

Light keeps increasing through March and April, accelerating growth further. Adjustments made now set patterns for the whole growing season. Establish monitoring routines—checking soil, watching new growth, adjusting water and food—rather than waiting for stress signs.

Some plants respond immediately to the 10-hour mark. Others lag a few weeks behind. Figure out your plants' individual patterns so February care becomes anticipatory instead of reactive.

What are grow lights? They're a substitute for natural sunlight, a way to give indoor plants the light they need to survive. While your home may seem plenty bright to you, the amount required by a lot of plants is actually much higher. That's where this supplement comes in.

Grow light setups can be very simple or extremely complex, depending on how involved you want to get, and whether you're coddling houseplants or starting seeds indoors. Let's explore the basics and figure out which is right for you.

The Light Spectrum

While sunlight looks white to you and me, it's actually made up of different colors, and you can buy grow lights that reflect those colors. Here are the three colors of grow light you're likely to encounter.

• Blue Light (400-500nm): Essential for vegetative growth and "bushy" plants. It prevents plants from getting leggy.
• Red Light (600-700nm): Crucial for flowering, fruit production, and seed germination.
• Full Spectrum: These lights mimic the sun by providing a balance of all colors. This is generally the best choice for all-purpose indoor gardening.

Types of Grow Lights

LED (Light Emitting Diodes)

In the past ten or so years, LEDs have become the new standard bulb pretty much everywhere, and that includes grow lights. They're extremely energy efficient, so they're cheaper to run. They also give off very little heat, which means they don't dry out the soil, and you can put them right up next to your plants without scorching the foliage.

Modern LED grow lights often come in "Full Spectrum" options that mimic the sun, though you may also see "blurple" (blue and red) lights designed specifically for targeted growth phases. When shopping for LEDs, look for the PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) rating rather than just wattage. This tells you exactly how much usable light is actually reaching your plant's leaves.

Fluorescent Lights

Fluorescent lights are cheap, easy to use, and readily available in lots of shapes and sizes, so naturally they're a favorite. Compact Fluorescent Lights (CFLs) are also a great choice for small spaces or single plants because they can be screwed into standard lamp sockets.

It's important to keep in mind that fluorescent bulbs lose their intensity over time. Even if the bulb still looks bright to your eyes, the spectrum may have shifted or dimmed enough to slow plant growth. This means you should change your bulbs out every 12-18 months. Bear that in mind when thinking about cost effectiveness.

HID (High Intensity Discharge)

High-Intensity Discharge lights, which include Metal Halide (MH) and High-Pressure Sodium (HPS), are the heavy hitters of the indoor gardening world. These are the lights the plant pros use for large-scale indoor gardens or fruit-bearing trees.

They consume a large amount of electricity, need specialized ballasts, and generate intense heat, which requires a dedicated ventilation or exhaust system. You don't want to go down this road lightly.

Incandescent Lights

These are your run-of-the-mill, old-fashioned light bulbs. They give off heat, they're inefficient, and they're too far on the red end of the spectrum to be a good alternative to sunlight. They really shouldn't be relied upon as the primary energy source for your indoor garden. Luckily they're being phased out of common use as we speak, so the temptation to put them over plants is dwindling.

How to Use Grow Lights

1. Give Your Plants a Rest

You're using grow lights to mimic sunlight, and what does the sun do half the time? It goes away! Grow lights are not meant to be kept on 24/7. For seedlings, they should be on 14-16 hours per day. For houseplants, 12-14. There are all kinds of timers on the market (and many built straight into the lights) that can run this schedule for you.

2. Adjust for Growth

Grow lights help your plants... well... GROW! That means they're going to get taller, and you'll have to move the lights with them. This is especially true for seedlings, which can gain height at a monumental rate.

If you notice your leaves look bleached or have brown or crispy spots, that's a sign that the light is too close. If your plant is leaning toward the light or looks stretched out, that means the light is too far away.

3. Clean Your Bulbs

Did you know dust on your lights can reduce their efficiency by up to 20%? Wipe down your tubes or LED panels once a month (when turned off and cool) to ensure maximum light penetration.

Our Recommendations

Tyler Schuster, our resident grow light expert, swears by his Spider Farmer light, which is available on Amazon. It's the real deal. If you're looking for something a little cheaper, here are some good alternatives.

You may keep an aloe vera plant on your windowsill for skincare or minor burns, or just because it looks nice. But did you know its fleshy leaves hold substances that can aid houseplants just as much as they soothe human skin? You can transform that extra growth into a powerful plant tonic in about 10 minutes using basic kitchen tools.

An aloe drench is the perfect "pick-me-up" for stressed greenery rebounding from repotting jolts, dry spells, or pest damage – cases where plain water often just won't suffice. Aloe vera also works well as part of routine maintenance when growth seems sluggish or leaf color looks slightly off, giving plants a gentle nudge without forcing heavy fertilizer schedules.

Why Aloe Drench Works on Houseplants

Aloe gel contains over 75 active elements, from vitamins and minerals to amino acids and enzymes. The gel's salicylic acid works like plant aspirin, igniting defense mechanisms that fend off illness and mend harm. Enzymes dissolve dead root bits while prompting fresh root sprouting, hastening bounce-back after tough times.

Gel helps moisture cling to roots beyond what plain water manages, allowing extra absorption time. Elements such as calcium, magnesium, potassium fortify cell walls and vital processes.

Together, this all makes the drench outperform regular water if your plants are in need of some TLC. It supports both visible growth and hidden root health, which often determines how well plants handle future stress.

What You'll Need

• One Mature Aloe Leaf – Choose a plump, vital leaf from your aloe's outer circle, since older ones pack more gel than inner youngsters. A single mature leaf yields ample gel for one liter of drench – enough to dose multiple houseplants.
• Filtered Water – Grab one liter (roughly 4 cups) filtered or distilled water, as tap chlorine might disrupt aloe's helpful parts.
• A Blender – For blending.
• A fine-mesh strainer – This set of three from Amazon will work well to clear out fibrous remnants that could block dirt or lure fungus gnats.

The Step-by-Step Process

1. Harvest

Using a sharp, clean knife, cut one aloe leaf close to the base. The cut will close naturally in no time. Opt for an outer leaf instead of central – those mature ones hold extra gel.

Sterilize your knife by wiping it with rubbing alcohol before cutting to avoid introducing bacteria into the plant or the gel. After cutting, let the leaf sit upright for a minute so any remaining yellow sap drains out. The sap is caustic, and draining it will make for a gentler tonic.

2. Extract the Gel

Split the leaf lengthwise and, spoon out the clear, sticky inner gel. Stick to translucent material, skipping yellow latex beneath skin that might upset roots. Compost or toss the rind.

If the gel feels gritty or smells sharp, rinse it briefly under cool water before blending. This helps wash off surface residue and keeps the mixture smooth so it won’t clog soil pores or watering tools later.

3. Blend and Emulsify

Combine the gel from one leaf with 1 liter of water in a blender, and blitz on high for 30 seconds. Aim for a frothy, bubbly mix resembling store aloe juice. Avoid excess blending.

If your blender struggles with thick gel, chop the gel into smaller chunks first so it breaks down evenly. The goal is a uniform liquid with no visible clumps floating on top.

4. Strain Out the Fiber

Run the blend through a strainer, catching unblended fiber scraps. These pieces might jam soil holes or host gnat eggs, so it's important to filter well. Press gently with the back of a spoon to push liquid through without forcing pulp into the mix.

Discard strained fibers rather than saving them, since they spoil fast and can smell if left sitting.

5. Dilute for Sensitive Plants

Dilute further for delicate types like ferns or orchids – one part aloe drench to two parts water works. Rugged pothos or snake plants take full potency just fine. If you’re unsure, begin with a diluted mixture, strengthening later if the response looks good.

Test on one plant first when trying a new batch, especially if plants are already stressed. If leaves perk up within a day or two, the strength is safe to use on the rest.

How to Apply Your Tonic

1. Monthly Root Drench

During the growing season (spring through early fall), substitute your regular watering with this drench once a month. This provides a steady supply of nutrients without the risk of mineral buildup.

2. Stress Recovery Treament

For plants that are drooping from transplant shock or pest damage, apply the drench immediately and repeat weekly until the plant stabilizes.

These watering cans from Amazon spread easily without the soil splash.

3. Propagation Jumpstart

Before placing cuttings in soil or water, soak the stems in a strong aloe drench for 10–15 minutes. The natural enzymes help curb rot and can often speed up root development by one to two weeks.

The holiday decorations may be back in the attic, but our beloved Christmas cacti soldier on. However, they may be starting to look a little past their best once we head towards the latter stages of winter. If your Christmas cactus looks a little weary, you might be thinking it’s done for another year, but the start of the year is actually a golden opportunity to kickstart a second flush of flowers.

While many treat them as seasonal flowering plants with limited ongoing visual interest, these resilient succulents have a secret: they are perfectly capable of a spectacular encore in spring. Knowing how to get a Christmas cactus to bloom again in spring isn’t down to a fluke – it’s simply about respecting the internal clock of the plant. Give your Christmas cactus the right care during this post-holiday slump, and you can transform that greenery into a stunning second act of vibrant color.

Native to Brazilian rainforests, Schlumbergera often has a second flowering season in early spring. Of course, our homes may not be quite as exotic as Brazil, but these epiphytic plants still crave a rhythm that mimics the shifts of their South American origins. Here's the secret to turning your tired plant into a vibrant spring showstopper.

The Secret Key to More Blooms

For anyone keen to find out how to get Christmas cactus to bloom again, the secret to a spring showing is simple. It’s all about embracing the “slump” and leaning into the idea of a January rest period. Put simply, the slump is a natural part of the plant’s life cycle. Not only does it have to be observed, it should be actively encouraged.

In the wild, these plants experience a period of cooler temperatures and shorter days following their primary reproductive cycle. When we keep things at a cozy 72°F (22°C) with the lights on until late, the cactus never receives the important biological signal that it’s time to rest and reset. That sign, in turn, is what prompts the plant to stop growing leaves and start growing buds. To get that second flush, you must initiate a period of rest for 4-6 weeks, starting in late January.

To set new flower buds, a Christmas cactus requires cool nights, hitting a sweet spot between 55-65°F (12.8-18.3°C). Use a digital thermometer like the ThermoPro TP50 from Amazon to keep temperatures in this range. If you must keep things snuggly for yourself, move your plant to a cool room or basement. The drop in temperature will slow the plant's metabolism, so it stores energy rather than pushing out weak growth. To trigger spring bloom, light requirements must be shifted, too. A Christmas cactus needs 13-14 hours of darkness a day during this rest period.

You should also scale back watering your Christmas cactus during this period. You want the soil to feel dry. If you aren’t sure how much to water in the rest period, try the wrinkle test. Gently squeeze one of the flat, leaf-like segments (phylloclades). If it feels firm, there is plenty of stored moisture. If it shows fine wrinkles and feels limp, add a little top-up. This mild drought, chill and dark all mimic a Brazilian dry season, which is the natural foundation for the next Christmas cactus flower burst.

3 Ways to Get Christmas Cactus to Rebloom

Once your Christmas cactus has enjoyed its quiet January hibernation, you can nudge it gently back to life. The following 3 steps are designed to work in harmony to encourage that dynamic second flush. Here’s how to make a Christmas cactus bloom again in a thoughtful way, and with minimum fuss.

1. The Light and Water Pivot

In late February or early March, move your cactus back into a spot with bright, indirect light. An east-facing window provides enough morning sun to fuel photosynthesis, without the harsh afternoon rays that can scorch segments. If you need a little extra light at this time, position your plant under a full-spectrum grow light, like the Glowrium Height Adjustable Grow Light from Amazon.

As the light increases, you must also slowly reintroduce moisture. Instead of a deep soak, start with light waterings using room-temperature water (either distilled or rainwater is preferable). Your Christmas cactus is sensitive to the shock of cold tap water, which can cause bud drop before the flowers even open. At this point, keep the soil moist but never soggy. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.

2. Strategic Deadhead and Prune

To maximize your spring flush, make sure flowers have the best chance of developing well. Start by gently twisting off any shriveled December blooms. Deadheading prevents wasting energy on seed production. For a truly lush encore, perform a light pruning. Use Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon (or sharp flower snips or scissors) to make clean cuts at the joints without damaging main stems.

As an alternative to pruning, try pinching back. Identify the phylloclades (those flat, leaf-like segments) and remove a couple of segments from the end of each branch. This stops the plant from becoming leggy and sparse, and encourages the stems to branch out. Since Christmas cacti only produce flowers at the tips of their stems, doubling the branches effectively doubles your potential for spring blossoms.

3. Gentle Nutrient Boost

Hopefully, you didn’t feed your Christmas cactus during the January rest. However, once you see tiny buds or new red-tinted leaf growth appearing (some time in late February), it’s a good idea to support growth with targeted fertilizing. Use a high-potassium liquid fertilizer or specialized cactus and succulent food, like Schultz Cactus Plus (2-7-7) from Amazon, to boost flower production (dilute to half-strength).

Potassium is the key mineral for flower development and root health (whereas high-nitrogen fertilizers prompt more green foliage). Feed the plant every 2 weeks through the spring blooming period. There’s no need to go heavy on feeds, though and a little goes a long way. Once the spring flowering ends, you can reduce feeding to once a month through summer.

But Don't Do This!

That’s all you need to create the ideal conditions for that lovely second flush. However, a few things are best avoided if you want to know how to get a Christmas cactus to flower again with zero stress:

• Don’t repot during bud set. A bigger pot does not mean more flowers. Christmas cacti actually bloom best when slightly root-bound. If you repot these plants now, they will focus on its root system, rather than producing flower buds. If the soil does look depleted, top-dress with a dedicated succulent or cactus mix like Back to the Roots Organic Succulents & Cacti Mix from Amazon.
• Don’t move once buds appear. A Christmas cactus can be fussy about its environment. Relocating it near heat vents or drafty windows can cause bud drop. Even rotating it 180 degrees can cause the plant to drop its buds in stress. Find its bloom spot before it blooms, then leave it there until the show is over.
• Don't rely on kitchen hacks. You may hear that sugar water or coffee grounds can trigger further flushes. These hacks shock the plant into blooming. However, sugar can foster harmful bacterial growth in the soil, and grounds can make the soil too acidic and lead to mold. So stick to balanced, water-soluble fertilizers.

Frequently Asked Questions

Christmas Cactus Care Essentials

To increase your chances of triggering a second flush of blooms, these care essentials make all the difference. Grab this care trio and focus on timely rejuvenation to boost your chances of that joyful spring flush:

A little patience and mimicking of nature is all you need for a delightful second bloom come spring. Just factor in that quiet, cool rest phase, followed by a gentle wake-up call in late February. This creates a natural transition, and easy encouragement to burst forth with that spectacular second flush. When you see those vibrant floral trumpets, the encore can be even more rewarding than the opening act. Roll on, spring…

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Houseplants with big leaves are having a moment right now – and it's no wonder why. They bring instant drama and tropical vibes to any room. And their oversized, bold foliage feels lush and architectural without much fuss.

These plants can turn a boring corner into a space that feels alive. They purify the air, add texture, and make a statement that smaller plants just can't provide. With the right varieties, location, and care, they thrive indoors without turning your home into a greenhouse project.

As an indoor gardening expert, I’ve selected a few of my favorite types of big houseplants that stand out for not only their massive leaves, but for their low-maintenance nature as well. Below are my top picks for maximum leaf size, beauty, and ease of care.

Best Houseplants With Big Leaves

These big-leaf houseplants make rooms instantly come alive. They provide the maximum plant impact with little effort because of their huge foliage. Here are my favorite varieties to capture this trend and fill your home with big, beautiful plants.

1. Swiss Cheese Plant

Monstera deliciosa, commonly known as the Swiss cheese plant, has those huge heart-shaped leaves that everyone recognizes – the ones with splits and holes that show up as the plant matures. Leaves easily hit 2-3 feet (0.6-0.9 m) long on established plants. The glossy surface catches light in ways that make rooms feel brighter.

Bright, indirect light works best for this plant, but it can handle lower light without drama. Water when the top few inches of soil dry out – maybe once a week in summer and less in winter. Pruners help trim brown edges. You need a sharp pair of bypass pruners, like these ones from Amazon, since dull blades can crush stems.

This plant pairs well with trailing pothos. The upright monstera against cascading vines creates a nice contrast. You can find monstera plants on Amazon from Costa Farms.

2. Fiddle Leaf Fig

Fiddle leaf figs have enormous violin-shaped leaves that can reach up to 18 inches (46 cm) long with prominent veins. Plants grow 6-10 feet (1.8-3 m) tall indoors, which makes them focal points that draw eyes up. Those big leaves make rooms feel bigger somehow.

It wants bright, indirect light and consistent watering. Let the top inch (2.5 cm) dry between drinks but don't let it go bone-dry for weeks or leaves drop fast. A moisture meter, which you can find on Amazon, gets rid of the guesswork. They can read moisture levels deep in the pot, so you are always sure you're properly watering your houseplants. Wipe leaves with a damp cloth weekly to clear dust and help plants get plenty of sunlight.

Snake plants pair well for texture with the broad fiddle leaves against their stiff sword shapes. You can shop fiddle leaf figs from Costa Farms on Amazon.

3. Alocasia

Many alocasia varieties have massive arrow-shaped leaves that span 2-3 feet (0.6-0.9 m), often with veins that look painted in silver or bronze. The foliage is thick and waxy and dramatic. Some types have dark leaves – almost black – that pop against light-colored walls.

Bright, indirect light and high humidity keep these houseplants happy. Water when the top of the soil dries, but don't let roots sit wet. Dry air crisps leaf edges fast, especially when heat runs in winter. But a small humidifier, like this one from Amazon, can help when it’s placed close enough to boost moisture around 50-60%.

Peace lilies pair well. The bold upright alocasia leaves against the softer arching lily foliage balances your houseplant display nicely. Explore lots of different alocasia plants for sale on Amazon.

4. Philodendron ‘Xanadu’

Philodendron ‘Xanadu’ grows in bushy mounds with deeply lobed leaves that are 12-18 inches (30-46 cm) long. The foliage has a feathery look because it is so heavily fenestrated. This philodendron variety stays under 3 feet (0.9 m) tall but spreads wide, filling pots with texture. The large, delicate leaves soften hard edges in rooms.

Low to bright, indirect light works best. Water when soil dries an inch (2.5 cm) down, maybe every ten days depending on the season. Well-draining soil prevents compaction. A good indoor potting soil, like this Happy Frog potting soil from Amazon, keeps roots happy longer.

ZZ plants make good companions. The lobed Xanadu against round and glossy ZZ creates a gorgeous textural contrast. Shop Xanadu philodendrons on Amazon.

5. Bird of Paradise

Bird of paradise produces large, banana-like leaves that reach up to 6 feet (1.8 m) long. The foliage is stiff, leathery, and stands tall without stakes. Leaves have a slight sheen that catches the light and edges split naturally over time from handling.

This plant needs bright light and regular water. Let soil dry slightly between waterings, but keep it moist spring through fall. Liquid fertilizer monthly during the growing season keeps leaves vibrant. I like to apply this plant food from Amazon at half strength. Rotate every few weeks or plants will lean towards the light.

Monstera pairs well. The giant upright bird of paradise against split monstera hearts creates a layered tropical effect. You can buy bird of paradise plants from Costa Farms on Amazon.

6. Giant Dumb Cane

Giant dumb cane has huge variegated leaves. They can reach up to 2 feet (0.6 m) long with cream patterns that brighten dim spots. It grows upright to 6-10 feet (1.8-3 m) tall, filling empty corners fast. No two leaves look the same.

Medium indirect light is preferred. Water when the top of the soil dries, but don't let it wilt completely. Repotting every year or two into larger containers keeps growth strong. Ceramic pots with drainage holes, like these ones from Amazon, work better than decorative ones without holes.

Snake plants contrast well. The variegated broad dumb cane looks great against stiff green snake plant swords. Shop dumb cane plants from Costa Farms on Amazon.

A note of warning: Keep this toxic plant away from pets as sap causes mouth numbness when ingested.

7. Colocasia

Colocasia, sometimes known as elephant ears, can grow massive heart-shaped leaves that reach up to 3 feet (0.9 m) long. The foliage often has a velvety texture that feels almost like suede. Some have deep purple undersides that practically glow when light hits from below.

Bright, indirect light and consistent moisture work best for these tropical houseplants. Keep soil damp, but not soaked. Check with a quick finger test before watering. Dry air browns and curls leaf edges inwards, so mist often or use a humidity tray.

ZZ plants pair well. The huge, dark colocasia leaves against compact, glossy ZZ foliage creates drama in low light. Explore tons of colocasia varieties for sale on Amazon.