September sees the return of fungus gnats, but there’s a very easy, very lovely way to control them: grow a butterwort as a houseplant and it'll eat them all up. Butterworts are carnivorous plants that produce a sticky dew on their leaves to trap flies, and clumsy fungus gnats are easy prey. And that’s a real relief for us indoor gardeners right now, as the end of summer is peak time for pesky little sciarid flies that breed in houseplant soil. So, rather than reaching for yellow sticky fly traps from Amazon to control those annoying houseplant flies, grow a pretty little butterwort instead.

Butterworts – or ‘pings’ as they’re often called on account of their Latin species name, Pinguicula – are small houseplants so they’ll fit alongside your current plant collection. Leaves grow in neat rosettes with a sticky coating that gives the plant a silvery, sparkling appearance, and tiny flowers grow on slender stalks in spring or summer. Get a few basics right – all explained below – and butterworts are simple to grow, and as plants grow bigger, they'll even gobble up mosquitoes.

And really, which would you rather see on your windowsill?

Pick a Mexican Butterwort

While all butterworts are carnivorous, not all are created equal when it comes to catching fungus gnats. If you're serious about ridding your houseplants of sciarid flies, then Mexican (also called tropical) butterworts make far better living flypapers than North American butterworts. Mexican butterworts form rosettes of wide, flat leaves with lots more horizontal landing space for gnats than North American butterworts, and they’re far easier to grow, too. While North American butterworts require humid conditions to grow well and are prone to rotting, Mexican butterworts are far more resilient and will happily sit on a windowsill without much TLC.

Look for Pinguicula cyclosecta, also known as the purple-leaf butterwort on account of the lavender tone its leaves can develop, which has pretty deep violet-purple flowers. Mexican butterwort Pinguicula cyclosecta is available from the Bloomify Store via Amazon. Another Mexican butterwort is Pinguicula esseriana, also available from the Bloomify Store via Amazon. This has pale green, pink-flushed leaves and paler lilac-hued flowers. Both grow to 4 inches high and wide.

How to Care for Mexican Butterwort

Butterworts evolved to extract nutrients from trapped flies because they grow in very poor soil. Replicate this with a potting soil designed specifically for carnivorous plants such as Professional Carnivorous Plant Soil from the Leaves and Soul Store via Amazon. This is vital – use standard potting soil and your plant will probably die.

Just as essential is to irrigate your butterwort with rainwater or distilled water such as Parent’s Choice Distilled Water from Walmart. Tap water contains minerals which will build up in the potting soil and kill your butterwort. It’s best to keep the soil just-damp by standing the pot in a half-inch-deep saucer that you keep permanently topped up with water. That way, the plant will wick just the right amount of water it needs.

A Mexican butterwort is easily scorched by strong midday sun but needs a few hours of gentle sunlight to produce plenty of the fly-trapping sticky dew. Direct sunlight will also bring out the pretty pink or purple foliage colors, so choose a warm windowsill that gets morning or evening sun but is cast into shade through the central part of the day.

If you want to use your butterwort to keep shady houseplants gnat-free, a full-spectrum LED grow light will work just as effectively as sunlight. This needn’t be expensive, as this $13 programmable halo grow light from Walmart proves.

How Effective are Butterworts at Controlling Fungus Gnats?

These carnivorous plants will only deal with the adult fungus gnat population and for every sciarid fly you see flying around, there will be hundreds more larvae in the soil. To break the gnats’ lifecycle, you’ll also need to deal with the larvae and maggots that hatch from eggs laid just under the soil surface of your houseplants. Use a natural soil drench that targets larvae like FGX from Amazon. Another smart move is to reduce fungus gnats by sprinkling cassia cinnamon on houseplant soil as its anti-fungal properties help to remove the maggots’ food source in the soil.

Butterworts can enter a state of dormancy over winter, though Mexican butterworts are less quick to nap than North American species as long as they're kept warm enough. During dormancy, the rosettes shrink to the size of a coin and leaves lose their stickiness. There’s no need to worry though – just reduce watering and increase it again once you see signs of growth in spring, and your butterwort will be just fine. Because fungus gnats are most active in September and October and again in April and May, dormancy won’t affect the plant’s performance as a living fly trap.

Butterworts are also fantastic at catching whiteflies, those tiny sap-sucking bugs that can infest the undersides of houseplant leaves and quickly breed in greenhouses. Many folk grow butterworts in their greenhouses to help control whitefly, but you’ll need to make sure you shade plants from strong sunlight.

Mexican butterworts are simple to propagate by leaf pulling, so you can quickly and easily expand your carnivorous collection to give houseplants more protection from fungus gnats. Bye bye sciarid flies!

September is where a peace lily stops coasting on summer conditions. Light drops off fast indoors, and what worked in July starts working against the plant. Seven small jobs this month keep winter from getting rough.

Peace lilies are forgiving houseplants right up until conditions shift on them. September is one of those shifts. Daylight shortens and the sun drops lower, so less light reaches whatever corner the plant has been parked in all summer. Most of what goes wrong over winter traces back to a warm-weather routine that didn’t get adjusted.

None of this needs a dramatic overhaul. Solid peace lily care in fall is mostly subtraction, since the plant needs less of nearly everything it got in July. What it does need is a bit more attention to detail. The list below covers seven jobs worth handling before the furnace kicks on.

7 September Peace Lily Tasks

A few of these take around five minutes. The ones that matter most are also the easiest to skip on accident, and they get skipped every year.

1. Ease Off the Watering

The dramatic droop is what trains people to overwater. A wilting peace lily looks like an emergency, so it gets a drink it often doesn't need in September. Cooler rooms and weaker light keep the potting mix wet longer, and roots sitting in soggy media are the fastest route to rot.

Before your water your peace lily, push a finger in about two inches (5cm) before reaching for the can. If it comes out damp, wait. This long-probe moisture meter from Amazon reads deeper than a fingertip can, which helps with a heavy pot you can't lift to judge by weight.

2. Bring the Summer Vacationers In

Anything that summered on a shaded porch should come back inside before nights dip under 60F (16C). Peace lilies stall in the cold and take weeks to recover. Check the undersides of the leaves first, though. Mealybugs (Pseudococcidae) and two-spotted spider mites (Tetranychus urticae) hitchhike indoors constantly this time of year, and a plant that looked clean out in the shade often isn't.

Home Depot carries Garden Safe insecticidal soap cleared for indoor use, and a thorough pass before the plant crosses the threshold is cheap insurance. Evicting mealybugs from a warm living room in January is not.

3. Give it One Last Feeding

One diluted feeding early in the month, then nothing much until spring. That's the whole schedule. Growth slows way down as light fades, and fertilizer the roots can't take up builds in the mix as salt, showing up later as crispy brown leaf tips that get blamed on dry air alone. 1/4 strength is plenty.

A gentle balanced liquid like Espoma organic indoor plant food, available on Amazon, is perfectly suitable. Peace lilies were never heavy feeders, and skipping the feeding won't hurt a plant that went into fresh mix this year.

4. Wipe the Dust Off

Those broad glossy leaves collect dust, and it costs the plant more now than it did in June. Weaker autumn light has to get through whatever film has settled on the surface. Clean your houseplants with a damp cloth, with the other hand supporting the leaf from underneath so it doesn't crease, handles the job in a couple of minutes.

Skip leaf shine products, since they can clog the stomata a leaf breathes through. Lukewarm water on a soft rag works better anyway, and it doubles as a pest check.

5. Cut Off Spent Blooms and Tired Leaves

Green flowers are aging flowers. The white spathe fades to a dull chartreuse as it ages, and past that point the plant is pouring energy into something already done. To prune your peace lily, follow the stalk down to the base and cut there instead of partway up, since a stub just browns off.

Clean, sharp snips matter more than the timing here, and a Fiskars micro-tip pruning snip from the Home Depot garden aisle gets into a crowded crown without mangling what sits next to it. Yellowing outer leaves get the same treatment. One or two in fall is normal.

6. Get Ahead of the Heating Season

Furnaces are rough on tropicals. Indoor humidity can drop quite significantly once the heat starts running, and peace lilies evolved on forest floors where the air stays thick. September is the window to set something up.

Plants clustered together hold moisture around each other, and a pebble tray buys a bit more. A 4L cool mist humidifier off Walmart's shelf does the actual work, though, and anything holding the room near 50 percent keeps leaf tips from browning by December.

7. Leave the Repotting for Spring

Roots circling the drainage holes are tempting to deal with now. Resist that urge. Repotting a peace lily in fall means it has to rebuild under low light and very little active growth. Slightly cramped roots are fine, and peace lilies tend to bloom better when a bit snug in the pot. Note the pot size, then mark it down for assessment in March. The exception is a plant sitting in a mix that has broken down to sludge and stays soggy.

Peace lilies have a long history of surviving neglect, so none of this has to happen on a strict schedule. Get to it sometime this month and the plant should look considerably better come February.

Every potted plant that spent the summer outdoors has been open house for bugs… for months. Ants could tunnel in through the drainage holes. Earwigs could tuck under the rim during the day, and adult black vine weevils might have climbed up after dark. Outdoors, none of that matters as much. Move those plants back indoors, though, and it’s a different story. Nothing rains on them and nothing eats them, and a heated room never gets a winter.

While we all want to surround ourselves with lush, living color as the seasons change and we spend more time inside, we need to make sure we aren’t opening the door to uninvited guests. If we aren’t careful, bringing plants inside after summer also brings those unwanted hitchhikers along for the ride. So how does a tub of Vaseline help, you might well ask? Well, used in the right way, it stays tacky for weeks. Set yourself a barrier made of petroleum jelly, and you can intercept those bugs before they have a chance to cause problems for your wider houseplant clan.

So if you’re about to bring your beloved potted tropicals, citrus, and foliage plants back indoors as fall temperatures start to dip, you definitely need to read this first. Because without natural predators or outdoor rainfall to keep pest numbers in check, a few stray bugs can rapidly turn into a full-blown indoor infestation by mid-winter. And that little old tub of petroleum jelly is a safer, cheaper alternative to chemical sprays – and a heck of a lot more versatile than you might think. Here’s how this cheeky jelly trick can protect your houseplant family this fall.

How to Use Vaseline & How Not To!

A jar of petroleum jelly costs a few dollars, and stops crawling insects cold by acting as a clever barrier. But exactly where you place it is very important. Smear it on the wrong surface, and the plant pays for it all winter. So before revealing where you can use yours safely, here’s the one place you definitely shouldn’t use it – on the leaves. On a leaf, it would block the pores (stomata). A coated leaf cannot exchange gas or transpire, so it yellows and then drops. Stems are no better, as bark and green tissue both breathe. So please bear that in mind before unscrewing your tub.

This cheeky jelly barrier belongs on the houseplant pot or container, and whatever that container sits on. For any trailing plants like pothos that might rest against a treated rim, you will just need to angle or position the vines away from the barrier before making any applications with your petroleum jelly. Keep good plant health in mind, and you have nothing to fear. And if you don’t have a tub to hand, the good news is you can pick up a little tub of Vaseline from Amazon for just a few dollars!

Before getting stuck into these easy Vaseline barrier tricks, take a couple of minutes to check the pots. Any dust, dirt, outdoor patio grime, and dry soil will prevent the petroleum jelly from sticking cleanly to terracotta or plastic. Wipe down the container walls with a damp cloth and let the surface dry completely before spreading your jelly barrier. You need to be able to apply a thin, uniform band so the petroleum jelly stays glossy and effective without slumping or sliding off.

Once you’re happy your pots are travel-ready, you’re ready to get your Vaseline bug barriers in place. These simple barriers will protect your wider houseplant family from fungus gnats, vine weevils, earwigs, and more. Just a few moments with your Vaseline now will bring you peace of mind for a pest-free winter, and here’s how…

1. Ring Outer Pot Rims and Bases

Flightless adult insects rely on vertical surfaces to reach the lush canopy of your potted plants. Black vine weevils climb up container walls after dark to nibble on leaf edges, while earwigs nest under folded pot lips in daylight hours. So applying a continuous 1-2-inch (2.5-5cm) band of petroleum jelly around the exterior rim creates a tactile obstacle these crawling pests cannot cross. Adding a second band near the base of heavy patio containers provides an early interception point for anything climbing up from below, like ants moving up from concrete pavers.

Make sure the surface is clean first, as dust and old soil will stop the jelly sticking to terracotta. Spread it thin enough to stay glossy, as a thick smear will slide down in warmer weather. A continuous ring is the whole trick, since insects will always look for the one gap you leave behind. Once pots are inside, check this band weekly. Dust particles may eventually give pests something to walk across. Simply refresh the band by wiping away debris and applying a fresh smear as needed.

In case you were wondering if you can also use scented Vaseline (like tubs of lip balm), the answer is: with caution. Tubs like Vaseline Lip Therapy Rose Lips from Amazon are fine as a quick top-up on indoor plant pots. However, they are best avoided outdoors, as the scents might attract ants. So for any pots you are about to bring inside, stick to the original, unscented jelly types for container rims.

When to apply: Apply these jelly rim bands outdoors 2-3 days before bringing pots inside, giving you time to check for any climbers attempting to cross the sticky barrier while the plants are still on the patio.

2. Coat Plant Stand Legs and Rolling Caddies

Pests that make it indoors do not stay put. Ants, especially, will find a route from one pot to the next along a shelf edge, and a treated rim won’t stop traffic underneath. Sowbugs and stray beetles can scale plant stands, window sills, and shelving units to travel from container to container. But if you smear a thin band of your petroleum jelly around each leg of a plant stand, low down out of sight, you cut that route off.

Metal and painted wood hold jelly well. Smooth metal, powder-coated iron, and sealed resin caddies all hold petroleum jelly cleanly without staining. If you need some extra caddies, you can pick up Bloem Plastic Caddies with Wheels from The Home Depot that are great for relocating houseplants. These caddies have a smooth resin base that is jelly-compatible.

Unfinished wood, ceramic, or porous stone also absorb grease oils. Wrap a strip of painter's tape around raw wooden legs first before applying your jelly band. Always wipe up stray drips to prevent a buildup of lint and avoid slick spots in living areas.

When to apply: Coat legs and caddies outdoors on the morning of transition day, just before placing washed pots onto their stands, so crawling pests on patio paving stones are cut off before pots cross your threshold.

3. Make DIY Yellow Sticky Traps

While perimeter rings on pots successfully block crawling insects, airborne pests require a different approach. However, fungus gnats and greenhouse whiteflies both home in on yellow (hence why many commercial traps are this color). So if you cut a square of bright yellow card, coat one side in a thin layer of Vaseline, and mount it on a bamboo skewer in the pot, you’re getting one over on these resident flies. Just a 4-inch (10 cm) square of Flipped Yellow Cardstock from Amazon is perfect.

Set your DIY sticky trap low, just above the soil where the gnats fly. If there are any buggy guests lurking, this card should fill up quickly. If you need any, you can pick up Expert Grill Bamboo Skewers from Walmart for less than a dollar. Be ready to swap the card when the surface is more insect than yellow. Positioning just above the soil surface targets adult fungus gnats as they emerge from damp potting media. Just keep in mind that sticky cards intercept adult insects to break the breeding cycle. To address soil larvae, combine traps with controlled watering practices.

When to apply: Insert these coated cards into the soil immediately after bringing pots indoors, right as plants enter their new warm environment, where soil-dwelling fungus gnat adults begin to emerge and fly.

4. Surround Saucers and Pot Feet

Whatever moved into the root ball earlier in summer is a separate problem from anything crawling up the outside. The base of an outdoor container resting on patio stones or soil is a target for opportunistic pests. Ants often establish nests inside warm potting media, while earwigs and slugs may have found shelter under drainage saucers. Applying a protective ring of petroleum jelly around the outer lip of drainage saucers and the undersides of pot feet creates an effective bottom-up barrier.

Because slugs and snails glide on mucus trails, the hydrophobic nature of petroleum jelly disrupts their foot flow, causing them to turn away. However, you should only apply jelly to the outer saucer lips and rims and container support feet. Never slather Vaseline directly across the open drainage hole of the pot itself. Keep drainage holes clear to maintain proper water runoff and prevent soil waterlogging.

If you’re looking for pot feet, you can get versatile Lemon Road Pot Feet from Amazon that work on indoor tile as well as outdoor patios. Cat lovers will adore the Lemon Road Cat Pot Feet, also from Amazon, for a real talking point that also helps with drainage and inobtrusive jelly applications.

When to apply: Apply your petroleum jelly to saucer edges and pot feet while pots are still outside being prepped. This prevents hidden patio slugs, earwigs, and ants from hitching a ride into your home when you lift containers to move them.

5. Establish a Quarantine Zone

Microscopic pest eggs or scale crawlers can hide inside dense foliage. Establishing a dedicated 3-4-week indoor quarantine zone prevents new arrivals contaminating your established indoor plants. You can enhance this holding area by applying a band of Vaseline around the perimeter legs or tray edges of your quarantine zone (this could be a table, sideboard, or other specially cleared space).

This quarantine is often skipped when houseplant lovers bring their babies inside, but it really can make a massive difference to the future health of all your indoor plants, so this is one space where it pays to get busy with the jelly (sensibly, of course). This containment area makes it easier to inspect leaf undersides and stem joints, and it’s a good idea to do this weekly with a magnifying glass. If scale or spider mites emerge, the Vaseline perimeter prevents them from migrating to neighboring shelves, allowing you to treat isolated plants cleanly without risking your entire collection. Combine with a foliar spray of diluted neem, such as Captain Jack’s Neem Max Concentrate from Walmart, to keep any pest outbreak under control.

When to apply: Set up your petroleum jelly perimeter band immediately upon bringing plants inside, ensuring isolated plants remain sealed off for their entire 3-4-week holding period.

Essential Pre-Jelly Checks

Before getting stuck into these petroleum jelly barriers, make sure you have given your pots a proper inspection, soak and clean. Any time you spend on this now will save you weeks of pain trying to manage a bigger pest problem later. Slide the plant out of its pot and check the outside of the root ball. Look for pale C-shaped weevil grubs, ant galleries, or a slug wedged against a drainage hole. Repot any plants that look badly colonized into fresh potting soil.

Then fill a bucket with lukewarm water and lower each pot until the water sits an inch (2.5 cm) below the rim. Leave for 15 minutes. Any ants will float out of the drainage holes, along with earwigs and anything else sheltering down there. Let the pot drain fully in the sun. Rinse the foliage while the plant is outside. A hose on a moderate setting can knock off twospotted spider mites and loose aphids, and the undersides of the leaves are where to aim. Let the foliage dry before any plant goes inside.

Do this, combined with your petroleum jelly barriers, and you’ll hopefully foil any uninvited guests trying to chance their way through your front door. Plants will stay clean, and nobody will spend February picking fungus gnats out of a coffee cup.

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Hyacinth blooms are a glorious way to scent your home for the holidays and for flowers in December, you need to start bulbs in September. Getting organised early is the only tricky part of growing hyacinth bulbs – the rest is a breeze and boy, it's worth the effort to enjoy fresh, fragrant flowers in the depths of winter.

In bud, a hyacinth's fragrance is fresh and green like a sunny spring day. As the flowers open, the aroma skips straight to high summer, intensely floral and sweetly intoxicating with subtle hints of vanilla and spice. Just one hyacinth can scent an entire room and combine beautifully with all the nostalgic aromas of Christmas cooking, adding unforgettable fragrance to your home through the holidays. So ditch the Christmas scented candles and grow some plant-based fragrance instead.

Here’s what to do, step by straightforward step, to get great results when forcing hyacinth bulbs. And make plenty, as these must-have holiday decor plants make lovely little gifts to give to friends and family.

How to Force Hyacinth Bulbs for Christmas

1. Buy Prepared Bulbs

Left to their own devices, hyacinths are spring-flowering bulbs that naturally bloom between March and May. To enjoy flowers in December, you need to buy bulbs that have been harvested early and heat-treated to trick them into blooming early. These will be clearly marked as ‘prepared’ bulbs. In September, you’ll find prepared hyacinth bulbs for forcing at your local garden center or nursery, and they're usually stocked by Walmart and Lowe’s.

You can plant standard hyacinth bulbs and trick them into growing early, but they’ll typically only grow leaves and are unlikely to flower.

2. Calculate the Timeline

To work out when to plant hyacinth bulbs, work back from the date you want flowers. As a general rule, hyacinth flowers last for 2-3 weeks, giving you a good window, and prepared bulbs take 12-14 weeks to flower. Some varieties take a little less – ‘Anna Marie’ typically blooms in 10 weeks – so check the packaging or online description. Heat and light levels will also affect the process, so it’s a smart idea to stagger planting over a couple of weeks. Not only does this increase the odds of timing holiday flowers just right, plants at multiple development stages adds to the fragrance.

3. Decide if You Want to Grow in Water or Soil

You can force Christmas hyacinths in water or potting soil, and your choice isn’t just down to aesthetics.

If you’re planning on throwing your bulbs once they’re done flowering, growing them in water is super-stylish and elegant. It's hygienic, too, if you’ll be using the living blooms as table decorations, and the visible roots adding another layer of interest. If you plan to plant your hyacinths outdoors for border blooms year after year, though, it’s best to grow them in soil.

In water, you’ll need glass forcing vases such as these from Amazon, with a narrower waist that holds bulbs above the water line. You can also force hyacinth bulbs in any shallow glass vase like this from Amazon, half-filled with pebbles to keep the bulbs from rotting in the water. Using pebbles also means you can use old mason jars.

To grow bulbs in soil, you need excellent drainage so use a potting mix intended for cacti and succulents like Hoffman Organic Cactus & Succulent Soil Mix, available from Walmart, or coco coir such as these Organic Coco Coir Pellets from Amazon. Any planter is fine as long as it’s twice as deep as the bulbs are high. A drainage hole isn’t essential, so many folk choose to use pretty bowls or upcycled tins as planters.

4. Set the Bulbs

The outer skin of hyacinth bulbs contains microscopic sharp calcium oxalate crystals, so always wear gloves to handle them.

In soil, first dampen the potting mix and add a layer to the base of the container. Place the flat base of the bulbs on the soil so their pointed ends are uppermost. As long as the bulbs don’t touch each other or the side of the planter, you can pack them in closely. Tuck more just-moist compost around the bulbs, leaving the ‘nose’ or the top quarter of the bulbs exposed.

In water, fill your vase or container of pebbles up with water to a level where it will sit just under the bulb. The bulb shouldn’t touch the water but the gap should only be ⅛–¼ inch. Place the bulb, pointed end up, in the vase cradle or on the pebbles.

5. Store in a Cool, Dark Place

Stand in a cool, dark but frost-free shed or garage, putting pots or vases in black polythene bags to keep out the light if needs be, for 10-12 weeks. The ideal temperature will be 42-48°F. Check bulbs regularly, topping up the water so the level says just beneath the bulb base in a glass vase or so the soil is just-moist in a pot. You’ll soon spot root growth in vases and, by December, you should see shoots coming from the top of the bulb in both vases and pots. Don't be alarmed that they're yellow – that results from the lack of light and leaves will soon green up.

6. Move the Bulbs Indoors

When those top shoots are around 2 inches high, carefully move your vases or pots indoors. Don’t place them into a hot room or bright sunlight straight away or the shock may stop the bulbs flowering. Instead, put them in a cool room out of direct sunlight – the back of a north-facing room is ideal. Once the leaves have greened up, gradually shift them into warmer, sunnier conditions.

Keep the water topped up as before, but there’s no need to feed the bulbs. Giving the pot or vase a quarter-turn every couple of days will keep the stems growing straight up, as hyacinths have a tendency to lean towards the light, when the top-heavy stems will need staking.

7. Control the Blooming Period

The warmer and lighter the conditions, the faster the bulbs will flower, allowing you to influence when they bloom and get the timing just right for the holidays. To slow blooming down, move hyacinths to a cool spot that falls to 50-60°F at night, out of direct sunlight. Do make sure the plant still gets plenty of indirect light, though, or the stem will stretch and weaken as it searches for more sunshine.

The flowers at the base of the cluster will open first, with blooming progressing upwards over a week to 10 days. Once blooms begin to open, keeping your plant away from hot radiators and fires and direct sun will steady the process and you can expect your hyacinth to last in full flower for a couple of weeks.

And there you have it, beautiful blooms for the holidays, ready to decorate with whatever you fancy to fit in with your Christmas decor.

How to Replant a Forced Hyacinth Outdoors

If you want to plant your soil-grown hyacinth outside once it’s done blooming, you’ll need to help it replace energy stores in its bulb. Keep the plant on a warm, sunny windowsill and keep it watered, cutting off the flower spike at the base once it fades to stop it wasting energy on seed production. It will take around two months for the foliage to wither, and don’t be tempted to cut them off or braid them, because the plant needs all its leafy solar panels to generate energy.

Gradually reduce watering and once the leaves are fully brown, remove the bulb from the pot, brush off any soil and pull or cut off the foliage. Leave to air dry in a warm but shady spot for a week, then once fully dry pop the bulb into a brown paper bag and store in a cool, dark, dry spot. Plant in October at a depth of two or three times the height of the bulb, and expect flowers next spring.

A summer spent outdoors on a shaded patio or porch can be amazing for certain houseplants, most of which are tropical plants that thrive in heat and humidity. Soaking up the fresh air, natural moisture, warm breezes, and filtered sunlight can often trigger lush new growth. But in September, that outdoor haven can become a bit more risky. These tropical species like warm, consistent conditions, and sudden shifts in temperature can cause issues long before fall frost arrives.

Leaving these sensitive houseplants outside during sudden night-temperature dips can trigger rapid leaf drop, root rot, and severe cold shock. So this month is a time to transition key summering houseplants indoors to preserve all the vibrant momentum your plants gained over the summer. Sensible transitions now can protect against undue plant stress. This is also a good chance to get on top of any outdoor pests that might be looking to hitchhike indoors.

If you’re not careful, you could be bringing spider mites, scale, and mealybugs directly into your indoor spaces. By recognizing which tender species require a timely shift indoors, and taking a few quick steps to clean foliage and adjust soil moisture, you’ll protect your houseplant family and ensure they flourish through winter. Here are the key houseplants you need to move indoors now, and the easy ways to keep them clean and safe at the end of the summer holidays.

When the Houseplant Holiday is Over

There isn’t a single, universal date for bringing houseplants indoors for the winter. When you bring them in depends on your growing zone, local weather, exposure, and the types of plants you have. One of the best ways to determine when to make the transition is to keep an eye on nighttime temperatures. Many of your tropical houseplants will start to get uncomfortable when nighttime temps reach 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius) consistently. Some are even more sensitive to cold and should be brought in before the nights get this chilly.

The key to a successful fall houseplant migration is tracking nighttime minimums rather than daytime highs. While a sunny September afternoon might feel warm, a sharp drop to 50°F (10°C) at night triggers the plants' roots to enter survival mode. Extremely tender varieties will be susceptible the moment nighttime forecasts consistently touch 55-60°F (13-16°C). Delaying the transition leaves them vulnerable to chill damage, which manifests weeks later as black leaf margins, soft stems, or foliage collapse. If you’re not sure, the highly rated Serundo Digital Thermometer from Amazon can help you determine temperature and humidity levels outside.

Of course, indoor environments can present lower light levels, dry forced-air heating, and reduced airflow. To prevent severe acclimation shock, you need to ease your houseplants inside over a 7-10-day buffer window. For the best houseplant care at the end of summer, start by moving your designated potted travelers to a deeply shaded porch spot for a few days. This will help to get them used to lower light. You can then bring them indoors for the night, while leaving them out during warm days.

Before bringing any container past your threshold, you also need to perform a thorough pest inspection for each plant. Hose down foliage to dislodge hitchhikers, treat the soil with an organic neem drench, and inspect leaf undersides under high magnification so hitchhiking pests don't invade your home. To get a closer look under the leaves, use a loupe or pocket magnifier. The Jarlink 60X Illuminated Loupe Magnifier from Amazon is terrific value and gives crisp detail to flag up microscopic webs and crawlers before bringing pots indoors. Make this move as early in September as you can, focusing on these tender plants first…

1. Fiddle Leaf Fig

Fiddle leaf fig (Ficus lyrata) is a popular but tricky houseplant. It’s a tropical native and strongly dislikes both cold temperatures and sudden temperature changes. Summer outside can trigger a lot of new growth, but cold nights can lead to leaf drop due to stress. While a summer outdoors often pushes out large, glossy fiddle-shaped leaves, cold September drafts below 55°F (13°C) shock the root system. This stress causes the tree to jettison its lower foliage, leaving you with a sparse, leggy trunk.

This houseplant thrives in constant warmth and high humidity, so its return indoors is a high-stakes task. Move your fig inside early in the month (well before nighttime temperatures are consistently 50°F). Transition it into a spot that receives 6-8 hours of bright, indirect sunlight near an east or south-facing window, with no drafts or vents. Once indoors, give your fig a quarter-turn every few days, so all sides receive balanced light, preventing the trunk from leaning awkwardly toward the window.

Because indoor light is less intense than outdoor sun, soil dries out more slowly. Resist the urge to overwater: wait until the top 2-3 inches (8cm) of potting soil are dry to the touch before watering thoroughly. And remember to clean large leaf surfaces using Southside Neem Oil Houseplant Wipes from Amazon, which combine a layer of pest protection with impressive cleaning and instant sheen.

2. Bird of Paradise

Birds of paradise (Strelitzia spp.) are gorgeous flowering tropical plants that thrive in warm weather and can really put out a lot of new growth on a summer outdoor holiday. With their massive, banana-like leaves and bold silhouettes, they are built for high heat and brilliant sunlight. The right summer placement outside will allow them to stock up generous energy reserves for those distinctive blooms. But cool nights will slow that growth and stress the new foliage long before the first frost.

Bring your bird of paradise inside before the nights become cooler than 55°F (13°C) and place it in the brightest window you have to make the transition easier. Ideally, this needs to be directly in front of an unshaded south or west-facing window. The broad paddle leaves are likely coated in dust, hard water deposits, and spider mites. So give these leaves a good clean before moving day with a soft cloth and warm water or a diluted neem spray. For an extra treat, add a mild drench of Arber Organic Bio-Protectant Concentrate from Walmart to protect against fungal rots.

3. Rex Begonia

Begonia rex-cultorum hybrids, also known as Rex begonias, are gorgeous plants known for their striking foliage. Loved for their swirls of metallics, magentas, and rich emeralds, Rex begonias are among the most decorative yet cold-sensitive foliage plants. These pretty leaves are especially susceptible to cold damage, which can cause leaf margins to turn translucent, crisp, or drop off entirely. So bring yours indoors as temperatures start to drop to around 55°F (13°C).

Cool damp weather creates ideal conditions for powdery mildew to take hold on their textured surfaces, which is another great reason to bring these plants indoors. Place them in a spot indoors with bright but indirect light (not your sunniest window which can scorch their rich pigments). Allow the top inch of soil to dry between waterings and check moisture levels if you’re not sure. The Xlux Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon is a steal and works across every plant you own (just keep it clean).

4. Calathea

Calathea (classified under Goeppertia) is a group of plants prized for their multi-hued and striped leaves. Also known as prayer plants, zebra plants, and peacock plants, these striped beauties have a bit of a reputation as being divas, due to their precise environmental requirements. They require high humidity and steady warmth, and they don’t respond well to environmental changes. They are also vulnerable to nighttime temperatures that dip sharply to 60°F (16°C), which can cause leaf curling, crisp brown tips, and stem collapse.

Transition your calathea back inside over 7-10 days, once nighttime temperatures outside are 55-60°F (13-16°C). Choose a spot indoors that has bright but indirect light, far from drafts, vents or AC units. Tap water containing high chlorine or fluoride levels can cause leaf tips to turn brown, so hydrate with distilled or filtered water. Running a cool-mist humidifier can also ease the transition. For a budget humidity option, the Pure Enrichment MistAire Drop Ultrasonic Cool Mist Humidifier from Target is compact and great for small spaces.

5. Boston Fern

Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata) is a classic summer porch plant, with dense, frilly fronds. They make awesome summer porch staples, tumbling out of hanging baskets in feathery green cascades. However, their lush growth relies heavily on high summer humidity and steady airflow. As September brings cooler nights below 55°F (13°C), these ferns stop growing and prepare to shed fronds. Bringing them indoors before cool weather sets in will preserve their vibrant color, though you should prepare for some minor leaf shedding as they adapt to drier indoor air.

Bring these ferns inside before the nights are consistently cool. Be sure to check for pests before making the transition. Give the pot a firm shake, then spray with a gentle hose stream to wash away dust, whiteflies, and scale. Trim yellowed or bare fronds back to the crown. Then give yours a spot with bright, indirect light and good humidity: a large bathroom window or near a kitchen sink is ideal. For a light mineral boost that can help them adapt in peace, apply a diluted seaweed tonic such as Bloom City Organic Liquid Seaweed & Kelp Fertilizer from Walmart. A gentle soil soak strengthens delicate fern roots and improves frond retention indoors.

6. Tropical Hibiscus

Tropical hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) plants thrive outdoors in summer, blooming abundantly and putting out new green growth. With fiery, tropical blooms that draw hummingbirds all summer, it makes a dramatic outdoor patio centerpiece. But while some hibiscus plants are hardy, the tropical hibiscus cannot tolerate cold temperatures. Exposure to night temps below 55°F (13°C) can trigger leaf yellowing and bud drop. Bring your potted hibiscus indoors early in September, while night air is still mild, so it can settle before winter arrives.

Bring it indoors while temperatures are mild, about 60°F (16°C) at night. Your tropical hibiscus will fare best with a spot at your sunniest window. Where indoor light is limited, add an LED grow light for 10-12 hours daily. If you are going to invest in full spectrum lighting, get something that offers at least 35W, like the SANSI 35W Wall Mounted LED Plant Lights from Amazon to supply sun-hungry hibiscus trees with the light intensity they need. These plants can get large in summer, so give it a light trim, but avoid aggressive pruning during this stressful transition.

7. Anthurium

Anthurium plants (Anthurium spp.), also known as flamingo flowers, are loved for their glossy spathes and long-lasting reds and pinks. As a houseplant, they can bloom all year, and they really appreciate some time outdoors to soak up the warm, humid conditions. Outdoor summering encourages robust root systems and continuous flowering. However, when nighttime temperatures fall to 60°F (16°C), growth halts, leaves turn yellow, and emerging flower buds can abort. So you should bring yours indoors as soon as late-summer weather begins to turn cool.

Clean foliage surfaces with a damp cloth to dislodge hitchhiking scale insects or aphids before moving in. Then place your anthurium wherever it will receive bright, indirect light, such as near an east or curtained west-facing window. Avoid cold drafts and harsh afternoon sun that can scorch those glossy spathes. Allow the top 50% of the potting medium to dry out between waterings. Top-dress with a little epiphytic potting mix such as Miracle-Gro Coarse Potting Mix from Amazon.

Houseplant Cleaning Essentials

Transitioning your tropical houseplants indoors for autumn requires a few targeted plant care products and protective accessories. This collection of essential supplies will help you carry out your September plant move with total confidence, eliminating pests, supporting healthy roots, and keeping foliage lush and vibrant through the winter months ahead.

Timing is everything when transitioning sensitive tropical plants indoors, but success relies on patience and timing. Always ease your plants inside over several days, so they aren't shocked by sudden shifts in light and humidity. Before moving a single container past your threshold, perform a thorough pest inspection, wash off foliage, and treat the soil to protect your wider houseplant family.

Select indoor locations based on each plant's needs, placing sun-lovers near bright windows and delicate foliage species in humid, shaded spots. Remember, the earlier you begin the transition process, the easier it will be for your plants to settle in and maintain their lush beauty all winter long.

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Lots of us love houseplants but – whisper it! – lots of us are pretty good at failing to keep them alive, so would we be better off with a LEGO plant built of plastic bricks? LEGO kicked off its Botanical Collection in January 2021 with a bonsai tree and has grown it to over 50 sets of bouquets and potted plants. With the current focus on leafy houseplants from golden pothos to baby pilea, maybe it's time for us serial houseplant killers to swap potting soil and stems for tiny construction blocks.

According to the Danish brickmaker, the Botanicals range is 'perfect for the not-so-green-thumbed’. As a regular holder of houseplant funerals, I decided to find out what would be best, a bona fide plant or its brick equivalent.

1. Golden Pothos

Pothos is one of the easiest houseplants to keep alive, its waxy heart-shaped leaves on trailing vines only needing the occasional watering. Forget to give it a drink for a week or three and this forgiving plant will bounce back quickly. It tolerates lower-light rooms, and golden pothos is just as resilient as its all-green cousin – growing houseplants just doesn't get any less difficult than this.

Though pothos leaves are toxic to cats and dogs if eaten, this plant is usually displayed hanging so, lovely as the LEGO plant is, I reckon the real thing wins this first round.

2. Peace Lily

A little more demanding is the peace lily, needing 2-3 cups of water every week and boy, will you know about it if you forget. With a dramatic flounce and flop of its leaves, this houseplant is a diva when it comes to dry soil, though quickly perks up once moisture is restored.

Peace lilies do have the most beautifully elegant white flowers but if you want to enjoy them, you’ll need to keep it away from cold drafts and give it consistent temperatures between 60 and 70°F and bright, indirect light. Lots of people love the peace lily for its drama-queen persnickety personality but I’m voting for the no-nonsense LEGO version in this second round.

3. Orchid

There’s no doubt that orchids are heartstoppingly beautiful with their arching stems of blooms and glossy green leaves, but are they easy to grow? Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) are the most forgiving and bloom most reliably, and are surprisingly straightforward to look after – as long as you learn the basics.

Pot this tropical plant up in a loose bark mix instead of potting mix, give it moist air by displaying it in a bathroom or standing its pot on a pebble tray of water, and ensure it gets indirect sunlight, and it’ll be just fine. But is it worth the faff? If you’re a dedicated orchid lover, absolutely. But if you’re not, the LEGO orchid brings joy without all the finely-tuned care programme, so bricks win round three.

4. Poinsettia

Not just for Christmas, poinsettia makes a cheery houseplant from fall to spring, when it drops its leaves and you prune the stems. So although it’s not much more than a stick over summer, if you remember to occasionally water it and then in autumn, stimulate new growth by giving the plant a daily dose of 14-16 of darkness, it returns for another flamboyant show.

Other than that, poinsettia is a cinch to look after but what makes having the real deal is the ornamental varieties which offer dreamy white, pink or white-speckled bracts as well as plain red. Sorry LEGO poinsettia, you can’t compete!

5. Mini Houseplants

Baby houseplants are irresistible, whether they’re made of plastic bricks or real-life petite stems and leaves. LEGO’s offering of nine mini arid, tropical and carnivorous plants gives great variety from pitcher plants to cacti and anthurium, and I’m awarding extra points for the terracotta-esque pots and that some bricks are made of plant-based plastic, sourced from sugar cane.

Even though nurturing baby houseplants brings huge satisfaction, and this set are all low-maintenance varieties that require minimal care, there will inevitably be one sad compost-heap funeral of the most needy. Consequently, round 5 puts the bijou bricks on the podium.

6. Bonsai Tree

While the baby houseplants were cute, the charm of a petite tree is off the scale, whether that’s brick-built in hours or trained over decades. While the LEGO Japanese Red Maple Bonsai Tree impresses with that sculptural trunk and fiery leaves, the temptation of growing your own bonsai tree from seed is too strong for any gardener to resist.

Goodness knows if it will take a century or more to grow your own real-life red maple in bonsai form to the same proportions of the LEGO tree, but it sure will be fun trying. Round 6 goes to the real-deal one-day tree, rather than the tree that gets made in one day.

7. Chinese Money Plant

Smiling pots and an even cheerier pricetag make the LEGO Pilea peperomioides and dracaena virtually irresistible, but the same can be said for the plant itself. The Chinese money plant is one of the most low-maintenance houseplants you can grow, it’s pretty drought tolerant and the round coin-shaped leaves are wonderfully quirky. All you need to remember is to rotate the pot every few weeks to stop the plant leaning as it grows quickly.

Sealing the deal, though, is the plant’s habit of producing baby plantlets around its base, earning it the nickname of friendship plant as you can gift these. Its LEGO partner in crime, dracaena (available from Plant Addicts) is just as unkillable in real life, handing round 7 to the actual houseplants.

The Final Verdict

And there you have it! It was a close competition but real houseplants pipped the LEGO Botanicals to the post in the closing seconds. I like the idea of mixing brick-built pot plants with shelf displays of real leaves though, and the sight of those handsome LEGO plants might just remind me to water my houseplants more regularly.

By mid-August, many backyards are showing the strains of summer displays that are edging past their best (if they haven’t already started to get decidedly crinkly around the edges!). Grass might be starting to crunch underfoot, tomato leaves are curling by noon, and once-vibrant summer annuals are beginning to look ratty and scorched. But while the great outdoors might not always be looking so great as summer winds down, there is a place where things can quickly be much lusher.

While August leaves many yards brown and brittle, indoors the picture is reversed. Pick the right leafy companions for your indoors retreat, and they remain vital and glossy through late-summer ravages, and well beyond. These resilient houseplants hit their stride as summer ends, holding color and shape while outdoor beds are winding down for the season. So rather than fighting a losing battle against the heat outside, why not turn your focus indoors and create a lush, tranquil sanctuary?

Many heat-loving tropical houseplants use these long daylight hours and warm ambient room temperatures to unfurl fresh growth and massive, glossy leaves. These low-maintenance houseplants love this warm air and extended daylight, not to mention humidity levels that would flatten a peony. Current conditions make them reassuringly low maintenance. And far from being background fillers, they hold their space with lush drama, metallic leaf swirls, outstanding structure, and even flowers. So skip the crispy yard, come indoors, and settle into a stress-free retreat, surrounded by gorgeous plants that look luxe way past summer’s end.

Grow Luxe, Low-Maintenance Plants

Nearly everything on this list shares the same short set of requirements, so these lush beauties really are low maintenance. Before setting up your indoor leafy retreat, just give some thought to the pot and the immediate environment. Pot drainage is critical. A pot without a hole is a slow death sentence in warm weather, as roots will risk sitting in water. A gritty mix with perlite or bark worked through it is best for drainage and root health, so be sure to add some to your potting soil of choice. A dedicated formula like Miracle-Gro Indoor Potting Mix for Tropicals, available from Amazon, comes blended with pine bark and lava rock for superior drainage.

Watering trips up more people in summer than in any other season. Heat dries the top of the pot quickly, but the lower half can stay saturated, so surface dryness is a poor indication. Pushing a finger down a couple of inches (5cm) gives a truer reading, or a dedicated soil meter like the Expert Gardener Digital Soil Meter from Walmart, which is super-easy to use and includes light readings. A ceiling fan on its low setting can also discourage fungus gnats and powdery mildew once the air turns muggy.

Light is the other big consideration to factor in before you expand your indoor plant family. While your local USDA hardiness zone dictates when outdoor temperatures drop in fall, indoor environments need to balance any magnifying window light and any dry airflow from air conditioning units. Cold AC blasts can shock tropical foliage, causing leaf drop or browned leaf margins. So position your plants out of drafts, and pull sensitive foliage back a few feet from south or west-facing windows. This will reduce the risk of shock or scorch. So now to meet the indoor stars of the show…

1. Pothos

Few people put pothos (Epipremnum aureum) at the top of a list for excitement. But it earns this position on merit for its low-maintenance credentials. It is virtually indestructible, and can flourish in a west-facing hallway or even a bathroom with one small window. Pothos even holds up in a dim corner where nothing else establishes. Those epic trailing vines can reach 6 feet (1.8m) indoors in just a couple of seasons.

For striking visual variety, there are some cool variegated varieties such as Marble Queen or vibrant Neon. For ultra low maintenance with vibrant gold star credentials, Costa Farms Golden Pothos Plants from Walmart quickly fills a vertical space with lush, full color. While tolerant of low humidity, you’ll find your pothos plant produces larger leaves when provided a support like a moss pole. Water once the top 2 inches (5cm) go dry: weekly through August, closer to every other week by November. Just note that the foliage is toxic to cats and dogs if chewed, so keep out of harm’s way.

2. Rex Begonia

Foliage this striking usually comes at a cost. But Rex begonia varieties (Begonia rex) are very easygoing in the right indoor setting, particularly as summer winds down outdoors. Its silver and plum leaves carry gorgeous metallic patterns and swirls that do the work of a flowering plant with little of the expectation. For an exquisite pink, green, and burgundy foliage swirl, buy BubbleBlooms Harmony Foliage Harmony’s Ghost Whisperer from Amazon. Just keep this plant clear of direct sun.

Bright indirect light suits August dwelling, maybe a few feet back from an east window indoors. Water at the soil line instead of over the top, as wet foliage in warm still air can invite powdery mildew. A light spritz with Arber Organic Bio-Fungicide Concentrate from Walmart is a great way to protect velvety begonia leaves in summer. Grouping these metallic darlings with other tropicals helps to keep ambient humidity high.

3. ZZ Plant

The ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) is the king of low-maintenance indoor greenery, holding up in low-light hallways where other plants eventually fail. Two weeks without water is no big deal for the ZZ, which stores moisture in thick rhizomes. So your August routine will amount to a deep soak every 2-3 weeks and little else. ZZ copes with low light, though growth accelerates in bright indirect conditions, sending up new spears through the warm stretch.

Arching stems carry glossy leaflets that look constantly polished. Standard green ZZ varieties are effortlessly glossy, and for something even more luxe, the Black Raven ZZ Plant from Plant Addicts develops lush near-black foliage. Overwatering is the one real threat for your ZZ. Yellowing lower leaves usually indicate too much water rather than too little. Just use a well-draining cactus or succulent soil mix, and ensure the pot has ample bottom drainage holes to prevent rhizome rot.

4. BIrd of Paradise

Scale is the main draw with these tropical plants, which are well suited to indoor living as summer ends. Birds of paradise (Strelitzia reginae) send up paddle leaves on long stalks and reach 3-5 feet (0.9-1.5m) indoors, turning a bare corner into a focal point. With huge, banana-like leaves, it brings tropical grandeur and even flowers in orange or white. If you can’t decide which color flower to choose from, the Fam Plants Store Birds of Paradise Plant Bundle from Amazon includes two of each.

A summer outdoors on a bright patio speeds growth noticeably, though the indoor transition needs easing in over a week or so. Adding a shade cloth, such as the Coolaroo 70% UV Block Shade Cloth from The Home Depot, over the patio for the first few days can prevent scorch. Just give this tropical beauty plenty of bright, direct sunlight. It also appreciates having its massive leaf blades wiped to keep them lush and healthy. Don’t panic if you see splits in older leaves, as these are normal and help the plant handle wind in its native habitat.

5. Snake Plant

Durability is the entire pitch with this low-maintenance plant. Snake plants (Dracaena trifasciata) throw up stiff, upright leaves that hold their own water reserves, and a photosynthetic quirk lets the plant take in carbon dioxide overnight instead of during the day. Renowned as one of the easiest houseplants in existence, its sword-like leaves feature striking horizontal banding and yellow margins. It thrives in almost any lighting condition, from dim corners to bright sun.

Watering can drop to roughly once a month even now. Stronger light produces sharper banding, though a north window will do fine. Always allow the soil to dry out between waterings. When in doubt, wait another week! If you fancy a compact form for smaller spaces that grows outward, try the Starfish Snake Plant from Plant Addicts with its thick leaves. For a taller variety with gold variegations, Gold Flame Snake Plant, also from Plant Addicts, is the definition of low maintenance.

6. Ponytail Palm

Featuring a distinctive swollen trunk base (called a caudex) topped with a fountain of long, cascading leaves, the ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata) is like a living desert sculpture. That swollen bulb at the base is a water reservoir, hence a big reason why it is so undemanding. Word to the wise, though: it isn’t really a palm, despite the name. Ponytail Palm from Perfect Plants is a great option for showcasing on a coffee table or windowsill, and you can currently get 18% off.

Full sun suits this easygoing houseplant – and that includes a genuinely hot windowsill that would cook a fern. Watering every few weeks is basically all the plant care required, along with some fast-draining succulent soil. One further point in its favor is that the ASPCA lists it as non-toxic to cats and dogs, which puts this playful house-dweller ahead of much of this list for growers with a pet inclined to chew.

7. Wax Plant (Hoya)

Clusters of waxy little stars sit in a near-perfect dome, heavily scented after dark. And these are just a couple of the charms of this easygoing summer houseplant, with as many names as waxy star blooms! The wax plant (Hoya carnosa), native to East Asia and Australia, is also known as the Hindu rope plant, porcelain flower plant, and the Krinkle Kurl (depending on variety). Rope Plant Hoyas from Plant Addicts are perfect for an indoor spot with bright indirect light.

This plant reaches peak bloom around late summer, so this is the perfect time to set one up. The main care tip is simple: never cut off the spent flower stalk. Those stalks, called peduncles, are permanent, and the plant reflowers from the same point year after year. Beyond that, this plant just needs bright indirect light and a container on the small side (they thrive when kept slightly root-bound). Train vining stems up a plant trellis, like the WellSign Honeycomb Potted Plant Trellis from Amazon, or just let them spill over a hanging basket to display their pretty form.

8. Croton

For a plant that combines an easy gloss factor with dazzling colors, look no further! Here is the plant that earns the word shine. Croton (Codiaeum variegatum) carries foliage streaked in red and gold, with deep oranges running through older growth, and those colors intensify under strong light. Indeed, your croton craves high light levels, so place it near a sun-drenched window for the best displays. For a reliable croton with the iconic neon hues, Nature’s Way Farms Croton Petra from Walmart is a lush statement piece that requires little ongoing care.

Aim for temperatures around 60-85°F (16-29°C) for a happy croton. It doesn’t like being moved around, especially near an AC vent. A tabletop humidifier, like the Levoit Classic300 Humidifier from Amazon, keeps the edges from crisping once indoor air dries out. Apart from that, your croton is unfussy. Just settle it into a bright, stable spot now, protect it from drafts, and the color will retain its dazzle long after the beds outside have finished for the year.

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The end of summer is a transition period for many plants, including your potted peace lily. It’s still the growing season, but temperature shifts, dry indoor air, and shifting sunlight angles can all impact your plant as it edges toward fall and the dormant season. August peace lily care aims to focus on this transition and help the plant stay healthy as it prepares for a slowdown in growth.

If you’ve noticed your peace lily looking a little deflated in ways that go beyond the usual wail for a watering, this is the time to get on top of some easy interventions before things change in earnest. It’s a vital time for action, since this is still a phase of growth for your plant. This monthly pitstop is your way of reassuring your peace lily after weeks of continuous air conditioning and intense sun angles. That way, it will keep growing (and looking gorgeous) for longer.

These simple monthly jobs will take minutes, but will ensure that your plant flourishes in high summer and keeps developing lush and glossy leaves and pristine white spathes well into fall. Make sure your peace lily is primed for fresh growth and bushy beauty even as the seasons start to shift. Not only will this help yours look better now, but it will also mean it is as healthy as possible going into spring.

Quick Peace Lily Tasks in August

The great news is that peace lily care isn’t too demanding this month. It’s mostly about starting to adjust a few of your basic summer approaches, checking in with appearance and environmental shifts, and getting your houseplant ready for the change in seasons. These simple checks and tasks don’t take long, but they will keep your peace lily healthy and thriving in the transition to a gentler, slower season, and promote better growth once your plant is on the other side of winter.

Take a couple of minutes first to assess your plant's position. Whether your peace lily spent the summer in a sleepy corner indoors, or enjoying a little holiday on a shaded porch in USDA hardiness zones 10-11, this month is where warmth and light will shift. Indoor air conditioning can strip ambient humidity in ways that are easier to miss when we are focused on the warmth outside. Meanwhile, peace lilies that have been outdoors must be inspected before being moved inside as nights cool down.

It’s a good idea to check the soil moisture level and the texture of your potting mix before trying these tasks. If your soil is nutrient-deprived or compacted, it is going to struggle with any feeds or treatments, and will be less able to support fresh spathes (that’s those gorgeous white blooms, to you and me!). For easy, battery-free readings, the XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon is excellent, especially for deep containers, and can also be used with your outdoor plants.

If you spot that water pools on top or runs straight down the inside edge of the pot without soaking in, hydrophobic peat compaction may have taken hold. That soil meter probe can help verify whether lower roots are dry. Adding some fresh potting mix to the top few inches can recharge tired containers. Pick something with an airy texture, like Miracle-Gro Indoor Potting Mix for Tropicals from The Home Depot. This will help to kickstart aeration and better soil drainage so you can be sure these quick peace lily wins are as effective as possible.

1. Focus on the Deep Soak

Yes, it’s true that one of the classic characteristic signs of a sad peace lily at any time is drooping leaves and stems associated with insufficient or poor watering. However, by August, even a well-watered peace lily may be starting to feel the pinch. Summer temperatures and dry indoor air conspire to dry out the soil in your plant’s container. Large-leaf varieties like 'Mona Loa' lose moisture rapidly through transpiration during hot August afternoons. However, smaller varieties like 'Power Petite' have lower water reserves and can dry out rapidly in small containers.

Aim to combat this with regular, deep watering that soaks the roots and soil. First of all, check the soil with your finger. When the top couple of inches (5cm) are dry, it’s time to water. Over summer, it’s possible that your peace lily may be suffering from a buildup of minerals on the surface of the potting soil, which can affect the plant’s ability to absorb water properly. So it’s also a good idea to perform a deep-soaking flush with room-temperature, filtered, or rain water. Do this until liquid runs freely out of the drainage holes.

Just be sure the water drains well and isn’t sitting in the bottom of the pot. If plants are sitting in drainage water for extended periods, this can also cause issues with root rot. For a simple, cheap way to lift your pots slightly off the base of the tray, grab a pack of Dedara Plant Pot Risers from Walmart. This budget-friendly bundle of supports slides discreetly inside any plant tray. Proper hydration will yield visible results within 8 hours, as stems snap back crisp and upright.

2. Shield Foliage from Shifting Sunlight

The angle of the sun is getting lower at this time of year, but it can still be too much for a peace lily, which prefers indirect light. Signs a peace lily is getting too much sunlight can include bleached, faded leaves, and curling or crispy leaf edges. Variegated cultivars like 'Domino' or 'Picasso' can suffer even more, because their cream-colored sectors lack protective chlorophyll and burn within hours of direct sun exposure.

Check how the sun is hitting your peace lily, especially in the afternoon when temperatures are highest. If the light is too intense, move it to a location with less direct sunlight. An east-facing window is ideal, but you can also put it near a west or south-facing window, behind the protection of a larger plant or sheer curtain. For a quick way of relocating heavier indoor plants (or moving outdoor plants indoors from outside), Bloem Planter Caddies from Target will wheel your peace lilies into position without any tedious lifting and are available in charming terracotta tones.

Just make sure you don’t place your plant in the path of cold air currents from air conditioning vents while trying to keep it cool. Thermal shock can cause leaf drop and drooping. It’s also important to rotate the plant pot at regular intervals to ensure even growth. You should find this helps to prevent further leaf browning and encourages deep, glossy new foliage.

3. Boost Local Humidity

Peace lilies thrive in humid conditions, although they do tolerate less-than-ideal conditions. The heat of August can lead to a lot of air conditioner use, which, in turn, can lead to exceptionally dry air. Indoor air conditioning can strip ambient humidity below the 50-60% baseline that these tropical natives prefer. Your peace lily will survive small fluctuations, but will benefit from added localized humidity at this time.

You can raise humidity levels with a pebble tray. Place the pot on top of a shallow container filled with pebbles and water. This creates moisture right around the plant. If you have other tropical plants that like humidity, group them together, so they trap more moisture around them. A gentle morning misting spray above the foliage can also help on hotter days, cooling down the leaf canopy and reducing transpiration stress. Just be sure to mist early in the day, so the droplets evaporate before nightfall, preventing standing water from sitting in the central crown.

To ensure your living space stays in the ideal humidity zone, use a monitor like the ThermoPro TP50 Digital Indoor Hygrometer and Humidity Meter from Amazon to track room temperature and relative humidity levels in real time. This TempPro staple is staggeringly good value, very popular with plant lovers, and will help you to decide exactly when to group plants or refill your humidity trays.

4. Apply a Gentle End of Season Feed

Peace lilies aren't heavy feeders, but light applications in the growing season promote healthy foliage and flower development. August is a great time to apply a final end-of-season drizzle. Just make sure your fertilizer is diluted to half or quarter strength, as peace lilies are sensitive to super strengths and feeling a little weakened by the excesses of summer.

Best options for feeding will feature a range of trace minerals that can replenish your plant after a long phase of growth, and give it the extra reserves needed to push out those extra bright white spathes, as well as the lushest new growth. Look for feeds with a gentle, balanced formula with potassium and magnesium to strengthen stems. If you are on a bit of a budget, try Bloom City’s Organic Liquid Seaweed and Kelp Fertilizer from Walmart to nurture that natural sheen ahead of the shorter days.

5. Clean Foliage and Deadhead Spathes

Your peace lily will appreciate a little tidying to help get ready for fall. Where you see faded spathes, gently deadhead them with clean snips near the base of the dead spathe stems. Don’t leave these dead spathes decaying on the surface of the soil as they can attract fungus gnats and mold. Given the hard work your air conditioner will have been putting in, chances are the leaves have also accumulated some dust. So give them a quick rinse in the tub, or use a soft, damp cloth to wipe them.

While tidying your peace lily leaves, keep an eye out for speckling, webs, or small flying insects. If you’re worried about summer pests, try a little neem oil (again, make sure this is diluted). It’s a great way to promote a natural glossy leaf shine and target early pests, such as spider mites or mealybugs. Dilute some Captain Jack’s Neem OIl Concentrate from Walmart and spray the leaves, then wipe. It’s the perfect pest blitz for a lush sheen that also means your plant is better able to process light.

Shop Peace Lily Essentials

Keeping your peace lily lush, vibrant, and blooming doesn't require a cabinet full of specialized supplies. A few gentle organic boosters and plant health care essentials will help your plant thrive through August and beyond. These can also be used on your other tropical indoor plant babies.

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Summer is a time for relaxing getaways, a great break for you but potentially a stressful time for your houseplants. Fortunately, not every plant demands daily watering or constant attention. Many popular houseplants are popular because they tolerate or even thrive on neglect.

Whether you’re planning a trip or just want low-maintenance greenery, these options are ideal. A little basic houseplant care before and after a vacation will keep these resilient beauties alive and thriving. Or if you're going away for a really long time, consider a smart plant waterer, which you can find at Amazon.

1. ZZ Plant

ZZ plant, or Zamioculcas zamiifolia, is also known as Zanzibar gem and eternity plant. It has glossy, dark green leaves and grows upright, making an attractive indoor container plant.

ZZ plant is native to eastern Africa, growing in drought-prone regions. It has thick rhizomes that store water, allowing it to survive weeks of dry conditions. In your home, this means you can miss several waterings and still have a healthy plant. It also grows well in low light. Give it one good watering before you leave on a trip, and it will be fine.

2. Snake Plant

Snake plant (Dracaena trifasciata), or mother-in-law plant, is a great option for anyone new to growing houseplants and those who are gone often. It has striking, tall, sword-shaped leaves with gorgeous variegation and golden borders.

Your snake plant is one of the toughest of all houseplants. Its fleshy leaves store water, and it tolerates low-light conditions. You’re more likely to kill a snake plant with overwatering than underwatering. In fact, it’s better to leave the soil slightly dry before you head off on vacation than to give it a soaking.

3. Ponytail Palm

Beaucarnea recurvata, the ponytail palm, gets its common name from the way the long, narrow leaves emerge in a bundle from the fleshy stem, spilling over like hair in a ponytail. These easy indoor plants are not true palms, but they provide a tropical, palm-like look and can potentially grow to six feet (1.8 m) tall in an indoor container.

Ponytail is actually a type of succulent. Native to arid regions of Central America, it has a thick, fleshy trunk, often described as an elephant foot because it is wider at the bottom. This unique trunk stores water, allowing the plant to go a week or two without attention. When going on vacation, place your ponytail palm in a sunny spot and only water it if the soil is very dry. It only needs a little moisture to survive your trip.

4. Cast Iron Plant

Cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) has an apt common name. It is exceptionally tough, thrives even in lower light conditions and changing temperatures, and tolerates and forgives neglected watering. Native to Japan and China, cast iron plant gives you plenty of lush, dark green foliage with little effort.

If you plan to jet off for extended periods of time in the summer, this is the plant for you. Make sure the soil has some moisture before you leave, but there’s no need to give it a soaking. Place it in a location with indirect or dappled light, not bright, direct light.

5. Jade

Jade plant (Crassula ovata) is a classic succulent houseplant with small, fleshy leaves growing on woody stems. It thrives in conditions of bright light but dry air and soil. You only ever need to water it when the soil has completely dried out, as the leaves hold and store moisture. Another bonus of growing a jade plant: it can live for up to 70 years.

Overwatering is more often an issue with jade plants than dry soil. If you’re going on vacation, give your jade plant a good soaking a day or two before you leave. This will give you a chance to check the bottom and be sure the water is draining, and the roots aren’t sitting in soggy soil. Make sure to leave it in a spot with bright light.

6. Pothos

Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a beloved houseplant because it’s so easy to grow and because it’s a real beauty. This is a vining plant native to Asia with glossy, heart-shaped leaves. In addition to being low-maintenance, you can choose from varieties in different shades of green, with variegation, and even with large white patches.

Pothos actually likes a decent amount of water and flourishes with a regular watering schedule. However, it is very forgiving and will bounce back quickly after being neglected for a while, even if it’s a little wilted and drooping. Before a trip, give it a good soak and leave it out of bright sunlight, which will dry out the soil more quickly.

If your summer plans include a fun getaway, you don’t have to come home to dead houseplants. Choose tough, low-maintenance, and forgiving plants like these and water them before you leave to set them up for success.

I have reached that point in summer where I look around my house and feel like I owe several apologies to my houseplants. The heatwaves have been relentless, the air feels so dry my own thirst levels are at forever at maximum, and somehow the plants I thought I understood have decided this is the year they test my patience.

Yes, every single one of my houseplants is wilting and drooping like made – and even my beloved mold-solving ivy has betrayed me. I know, I know; I never thought I'd say that either. Ivy has always been the plant I could rely on, but lately it has been looking deeply unimpressed with the whole situation, dropping leaves, turning a les-than-fetching brown color, and generally acting as though it would like to speak to my manager.

Thankfully, though, there is one houseplant that well and truly has my corner: my snake plant is standing there looking almost offensively healthy. Quite honestly, it's standing straighter than I am in this horribly hot weather.

All Of My Houseplants Are Dying In The Heat... Except For This One

Yes, you guessed it; my snake plants have become the smug survivors of my indoor garden (just call them the sexy cockroaches of the houseplant world). They don't care that the temperature has climbed or if I succumb to my overheated state and forget about them for a while. And they certainly don't need the constant attention that some of my more dramatic houseplants seem to demand in a heatwave.

Snake plants, also known as Sansevieria or Dracaena trifasciata, have earned their reputation as one of the easiest houseplants around (some even call them unkillable houseplants) for good reason. Primarily because their thick leaves store water and help them cope with dry conditions.

This means that, unlike many tropical houseplants that wilt dramatically when they miss a watering, snake plants are designed to handle periods of neglect. In fact, the biggest mistake many people make with them is being too kind.

Basically, snake plants are some of the best houseplants to tend to during a heatwave because they don't want constant watering or soggy soil. Their roots prefer to dry out between drinks, which makes them ideal for anyone who loves plants but occasionally forgets they exist.

They also tolerate a surprisingly wide range of indoor conditions, from bright indirect light to lower-light corners where many other houseplants struggle. No wonder that, despite long being associated with offices and waiting rooms, they've become one of the trendiest houseplants going.

And you don't just have to stick to the classic yellow-edged 'Laurentii' (even if it's still a favorite), as there are so many more interesting options now. 'Moonshine' has silvery-green leaves that almost look painted; 'Black Coral' has deep green foliage with striking dark tones; 'Bantel's Sensation' has elegant narrow leaves with creamy vertical stripes; and the dramatic Whale Fin snake plant has a single enormous paddle-shaped leaf that looks like something from a designer plant showroom.

Shop the Best Snake Plants:

The best part about investing in a pretty new snake plant of your very own? These are exactly the kind of plants that reward you for doing less. After years of trying to keep fussier houseplants from dying in the heat (or throwing a dramatic flop over some other perceived slight), there's something wonderfully satisfying about having a plant that simply gets on with life.

Honestly, while my ivy is currently staging a dramatic protest and several other houseplants are wilting more than I am, my snake plants remain completely unbothered. We could all learn something from them.

The peace lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii) has a reputation for being unkillable, which does it a slight disservice. It survives neglect. Looking lush and pushing out those white spathes is a different bar, and July is when the gap between surviving and thriving shows. Warm air and faster growth pull more from the plant than the quieter months do.

None of it is complicated. Good peace lily care in summer comes down to reading what the plant is already telling you and adjusting before a droop turns into a brown edge. The five tasks here cover the stretch through the hottest part of the season, and none of them takes long.

5 Peace Lily Tasks Worth Doing in July

A peace lily is expressive, which makes it forgiving. The leaves sag when it's thirsty, so it tells on itself before harm sets in. Give it a good drink with a watering can like this one from Amazon, and it perks right back up again. That feedback is what keeps the summer routine manageable.

1. Water More Often, but Read the Soil First

Heat drives thirst, and a peace lily that coasted on a weekly drink in spring may want water every few days once July settles in. The dramatic wilt is the giveaway, but chasing that peace lily droop on a rigid schedule overcorrects into soggy roots. The soil is the better guide. When the top inch (2.5cm) feels dry, it's time; when it's still damp, wait.

Watering a peace lily with rainwater or filtered water is better than hard tap, since the browning leaf tips so many owners fight often trace back to fluoride and chlorine building up. Letting tap water stand overnight helps a little. The plant drinks fast in the heat, so a pot left to dry out completely collapses hard and takes a couple of days to recover, if it recovers all the way. Humidity is the half of watering that summer strips away, since air conditioning pulls moisture out of a room. A peace lily raised on tropical damp responds with brown, papery leaf tips, and watering more never fixes that one. The answer is putting moisture back in the air – group it with other plants, set the pot on a pebble tray like this one from Amazon, or run a small humidifier nearby.

2. Feed Lightly for Those White Spathes

July sits in the middle of active growth, and a hungry peace lily puts out leaves at the expense of flowers. A balanced houseplant fertilizer keeps both going, and a gentle 1-1-1 liquid houseplant food from Amazon suits a plant this sensitive to salt buildup. Feeding once a month through summer is plenty.

More is not better here. Over-fertilized peace lilies show it fast. The leaf tips crisp up brown, and a white crust of mineral salt starts creeping across the soil. Flush the pot through with plain water if that shows up, then skip the next feeding. Plenty of people mistake a plant with all leaves and no blooms as hungry, when usually it's the opposite.

3. Get the Light and Placement Right

Peace lilies pass as shade plants. Indoors that mostly holds, so summer sun through a south window can scorch them in a way low winter light doesn’t. Watch for pale washed-out patches, or bleached blotches where a leaf has taken too much direct sun. Bright indirect light a step back from the glass keeps the color rich without burning.

The flip side is true too. A peace lily parked in a genuinely dark corner stays alive but rarely blooms, since it needs decent light to bother producing spathes at all. Somewhere it casts a soft shadow is about right. Keep it clear of air-conditioning vents while you're adjusting placement, because that cold dry draft browns leaf edges as surely as too much sun does. Giving the pot a quarter turn each time you water keeps growth even, since a peace lily leans toward its light source over a few weeks and grows lopsided otherwise.

4. Groom the Leaves and Deadhead Spent Blooms

Dust is a quiet problem on a broad-leaved plant. A film across those big leaves blocks light and slows the plant down, so wipe each one with a damp cloth every couple of weeks to keep them working and glossy. Spent flowers matter as well – once a white spathe fades to green and then browns, cut the whole stalk to the base with a clean pair of Fiskars micro-tip pruning snips from Walmart so the plant redirects that energy into new growth.

Older leaves yellow off on their own schedule, and those get trimmed at the base as they go. The wiping does double duty, putting your eyes on the leaf undersides where spider mites (Tetranychus urticae) and mealybugs settle in before anyone spots them. Both love the summer heat. Catch a handful early and you can often skip the infestation entirely.

5. Check Whether It's Ready for a Bigger Pot

Summer growth can tip a peace lily into being root-bound. A few things give it away. Water runs straight through instead of soaking in, roots poke out the drainage holes, and the plant wilts again almost as soon as it's watered. A rootbound peace lily blooms poorly and dries out constantly, undoing the other four tasks.

When repotting a peace lily, go up just one pot size – too large a container holds excess water and invites root rot, which peace lilies are prone to. These fun 8-inch pots from Amazon suit a plant stepping up from a 6-inch nursery pot. That said, these things flower best a little snug in the pot, so if none of those signs are showing, leave it where it is and look again in fall. Do these five through the summer and your peace lily rewards you with that deep green flush and a steady run of white spathes, right when the rest of the garden is wilting in the heat.

Peace Lily Essentials

Pothos is prized for its long vines and lush foliage, as well as its low-maintenance needs. Even newbies to growing houseplants can easily keep a pothos alive. That said, a little care here and there will ensure it thrives for years, help it to reach impressive dimensions, and keep it looking lush and vibrant while doing so. July is the heart of the growing season, a time when your pothos is growing faster than ever – so why not take advantage of the growth phase to tweak key elements of appearance and health?

July pothos care is really quite simple, but these little tasks make a huge difference. During peak summer, indoor light levels and ambient temperatures align to trigger rapid cell division in tropical vines. However, without a few deliberate tweaks, that sudden burst of energy can result in sparse, leggy growth or scorched foliage. If your indoor pal is looking a little tired or, conversely, is shooting off long, naked runners, then now is your prime window of opportunity to get on top of things.

Taking just 15 minutes this month to finetune your plant’s appearance and quality of living will set the stage for lush, dense growth over the next few months, and also give your pothos the foundation it needs to thrive year after year. Here’s how to give your gorgeous twining vine an easy-peasy July glow-up.

Quick Pothos Tasks in July

These simple tasks all work together to encourage longer vines, fuller growth, and healthier leaves. Your pothos will be well-positioned to thrive throughout the rest of summer and continue producing lush greenery well into fall. But before jumping into your pothos care routine, it helps to assess where your plant lives and how your local environment might be influencing its indoor climate.

Perhaps you live in a hot, dry climate (like USDA hardiness zones 9-11), where air conditioning constantly strips the indoor air of humidity? Or maybe you are growing your pothos in a cooler, humid region (zones 5-7), where windows are left open to invite summer breezes. Either way, your pothos will react to its surroundings. Container-bound vining plants also rely heavily on conditions within the pot.

Setting aside just 20-30 minutes for prep work pays huge dividends. Check for early signs of common summer pests, like spider mites or mealybugs, which thrive in dry indoor conditions, and tackle early issues with a diluted neem oil spray. Next, test the density and moisture level of your soil mix. Compacted, nutrient-depleted soil cannot support the vine expansion typical of summer growth. Keeping a moisture monitor like the XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon on hand takes the guesswork out of root-zone checks, so you can be sure existing moisture levels are healthy.

If your soil has degraded or lost its airy texture, grab a bag of high-drainage substrate like Miracle-Gro Potting Mix for Tropicals from The Home Depot. It’s a good idea to topdress your houseplant potting soil before tackling these care steps. This will help to refresh the pot without suffocating delicate roots, and will balance drainage before you start on these key pothos tasks for July.

1. Water Your Pothos Regularly

Pothos is very forgiving, but it grows best with consistently moist soil. Water is especially important in July, when growth is rapid and indoor air tends to be dry. The best way to water is to give the potting soil a good soaking infrequently. Let the water run out of the drainage holes. When the top inch or two (5 cm) is dry, water again. While your pothos likes moist soil, it doesn’t like soggy roots, so empty the saucer under the container after watering, or raise the plant on risers or pot toes, like these sweet Tortoise Decorative Pot Toes for Planters, available from Walmart.

Highly variegated cultivars like N'Joy or Manjula have less chlorophyll and slightly slower transpiration rates than solid green or Jade pothos. This makes them more sensitive to overwatering. Conversely, fast-growing Golden or Blue Cebu will drink rapidly during heatwaves. If you neglect deep watering, you risk root desiccation, which leads to yellowing lower leaves and premature leaf drop along the main vines.

For controlled hydration that won't wash away surface soil, a narrow-spout watering vessel like the Vatenkrasse Ivory and Gold Watering Can from Ikea ensures even delivery directly to the root zone. You can expect to see perked-up, turgid leaves within 12-24 hours of a deep soak.

2. Protect from Bright Light

This is an easy plant to grow indoors: indirect light, dappled light, and filtered light all work well. Indeed, it is often too much sunlight that can cause issues. Direct afternoon rays passing through window glass act like a magnifying glass, causing irreversible foliar sunburn. Variegated varieties like Snow Queen or Marble Queen are especially vulnerable, because their white sectors lack protective pigments.

If the July sun is too intense in your plant’s usual spot, move it for a while. Remove it from very bright windows, place it outside under a patio, or move it to an east or north-facing window. Too much direct sunlight can scorch leaves, ultimately killing them. Definitely don’t shock the plant by moving it straight from a dim interior room to an unshaded outdoor patio. Intense UV light can bleach leaves pretty quickly.

To maintain high humidity without harsh sun exposure, especially if keeping your plant near a bright bathroom window, consider softening direct rays with a decorative window film like the Rabbitgoo Frosted Window Privacy Film from Amazon. If shifting your plant away from natural windows leaves it in too dark a corner, use a gentle, full-spectrum light source, like the Maystar Full Spectrum 2000W Dual Switch Grow Lamp from Walmart. Adjusting light exposure yields noticeable results within a week, preventing further leaf loss and encouraging rich color development.

3. Feed Lightly

Pothos plants don’t always need to be fertilized. Again, they are forgiving plants. They can grow well in rich and poor soil. If you never fertilized it, the plant would survive. That said, a little light feeding while it’s putting out new growth will keep it healthy and vigorous. Use a balanced houseplant fertilizer about once a month in the summer. For gentle, consistent nourishment, use a balanced liquid formula like Back to the Roots Organic Indoor Plant Food from Amazon.

These plants don’t need a lot of extra nutrients, so use the fertilizer at half strength. Ensure the root system is pre-dampened to prevent chemical burn. Water the pot thoroughly along with the fertilizer to reduce the risk of scorching the roots. To boost root vigor and enhance natural leaf sheen, you can also add a tiny splash of a seaweed tonic, such as Neptune’s Harvest Fish & Seaweed Fertilizer from Walmart. Within 2-3 weeks of a gentle July feed, you should see glossier unfurling leaves.

Supplying a light, balanced diet now ensures that new leaves open at their full potential size, with rich pigmentation and thick, durable cuticles. Skipping fertilizer entirely during active summer growth may not be the end of the world, but it often leads to small, pale leaves and thin, fragile stems. Just don’t go too far the other way with heavy formulas. These can cause salt buildup and brown leaf tips.

4. Prune and Propagate for Denser Growth

Pothos is very good at putting out long, trailing vines. In the wild, the vines can grow as long as 70 feet (21 meters). If you are seeing long, stringy vines, you can trim your pothos in July to encourage growth to branch out. Try pruning the longest vine to a point just above a leaf node. This will stimulate the vine to split, giving denser, bushier growth. To ensure clean cuts, use precision cutters like Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon and sterilize before and after. Don't remove more than 25-30% of the total plant foliage in one session, as this can shock the root system.

As a bonus, you can take select cuttings to create a new plant. You can either pot up your cuttings or place them in a glass or jar of water. Select healthy cuttings with 2-3 nodes for propagation. Root your fresh summer cuttings in style, using a tabletop propagation setup like the Mkono Plant Propagation Station from Amazon, or the Arlmont & Co Plant Terrarium with Wooden Stand from Wayfair for a modern yet organic twist. Cuttings placed in water will begin throwing out white water roots within 10 to 14 days during July's warm window.

5. Give New Growth Something to Climb

Most pothos plants grow vines that trail from pots and baskets. In their natural habitat, pothos vines will climb. Provide a vertical support, and you’ll be rewarded with larger leaves than if they trail. Since pothos puts out new growth in July, this is a great time to tackle this simple task. Try a small trellis that you can sink into the soil of the pot or secure to the outside of the container. One pretty trellis frame that slides into the pot is the WellSign Honeycomb Potted Plant Trellis from Amazon.

Another option is to use a moss pole. You can also make your own moss pole, or you can get one ready made. For a natural option, try Lanney Moss Poles for Plants from Walmart. Secure your trailing vines gently along the pole or trellis, using soft, adjustable ties like Velcro One-Wrap Garden Ties from Lowe’s. Within 3-4 weeks of securing aerial roots to a moist support, you will observe new leaves emerging that are much larger than their trailing counterparts.

In their native tropical environments, pothos are epiphytic climbers. When aerial roots contact a sturdy, moist surface, the plant signals its mature phase, producing larger leaves with structural integrity. Leaving vines to hang downward keeps the foliage in a juvenile state, where leaves remain small and uniform. Providing vertical climbing real estate in July takes full advantage of aerial root development. Keep moss poles slightly damp to encourage aerial roots to latch on firmly.

Shop Pothos Care Essentials

Maintaining a lush, vibrant pothos is a simple joy if done quickly at regular moments. If you need a few gentle organic boosters to help you get these tasks done well, this trio can help. Take a little time to help your vines thrive, and you’ll encourage fuller growth and glossier leaves.

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Used coffee grounds are often recommended as a natural fertilizer for many houseplants. But do orchids like coffee grounds? The answer isn’t a flat no. It depends almost entirely on which orchid is being discussed and how the grounds reach it.

A spent filter full of coffee grounds feels wasteful in the bin, which is probably how this idea got started. There’s real nitrogen in there. There’s organic matter too, along with years of internet advice insisting that acid-loving plants will thank you for the trouble. Orchids occupy an odd position in that conversation.

Two of those assumptions don’t survive much scrutiny, and the stakes are higher when fertilizing orchids than they would be when using coffee on tomato plants. It's important to understand that orchid roots evolved for conditions nothing like garden soil, and the medium in a typical pot serves a purpose that has little to do with nutrition. Get that part wrong, and the nitrogen content stops mattering.

Why Coffee Grounds Might Help Orchids

First up, I cannot overstate this: all types of orchids cannot rely on coffee grounds alone. They still need a specialist orchid fertilizer to provide the balanced nutrients they require. I like to use Better-Gro Orchid Plus 20-14-13, available from Amazon, which is urea-free.

But what if you're looking for a natural top-up? The nutrients in coffee grounds are genuinely there. Used grounds contain around 2 percent nitrogen by weight, with smaller amounts of potassium and magnesium alongside. They also add organic matter and hold moisture. Soil microbes break them down over time into something a plant can eventually take up. For a vegetable bed or home compost pile, that’s a decent contribution from something free.

The acidity claim is where the reasoning goes sideways. Brewing pulls the water-soluble acids out of the beans and into the cup, leaving spent grounds close to neutral, at around pH 6.5 to 6.8. Anyone using them to lower pH is banking on a property the grounds gave up in the machine. Whatever they do for an orchid, acidifying the medium isn’t it.

Are Coffee Grounds Suitable for Every Type of Orchid?

The answer hinges on one key distinction. Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis species) are epiphytes, as are Cattleyas, Dendrobiums, and Vandas. In the wild, they cling to tree bark, with their roots hanging in moving air. Those roots are covered in a spongy layer called velamen, which soaks up water in bursts and then needs to dry out. Orchid bark mix in a pot is an attempt to recreate those airy conditions; providing nutrition is not its primary purpose.

Terrestrial orchids play by different rules entirely. Bletilla striata, the hardy ground orchid, grows in ordinary soil outdoors in USDA zones 5 to 9. Lady’s slippers (Cypripedium species) and ladies’ tresses (Spiranthes species) also grow in the ground. Their roots encounter organic matter much as those of other perennials do, making this a very different conversation from the one happening in a bark-filled pot.

Nearly every argument about coffee grounds and orchids comes down to two very different types of plant being discussed as though they were one.

Why You Shouldn't Add Grounds Straight to Orchid Bark

Wet coffee grounds behave like silt. Sprinkled into a pot, they filter down between the chunks and pack into the gaps, turning an open medium into something that stays damp long after it should have dried. A bag of orchid bark, such as this Rosy Soil mix, which contains biochar and mycorrhizae to improve plant health, is coarse for a reason, and filling those spaces defeats the whole design.

What follows is fairly predictable. Fungus gnats (Bradysia species) can breed in the damp organic layer, while white, fuzzy mold may spread across the surface within a couple of weeks. Roots that need air remain wet instead and can begin to rot from the outside in. Caffeine residue is another unknown: it has been shown to inhibit root growth in a number of plant species, and it is not well established where orchids fall on that list.

The Safest Way To Use Coffee Grounds for Orchids

For epiphytic orchids in bark, a heavily diluted and thoroughly strained coffee-ground “tea” avoids the problem of solid particles clogging the mix. It is still an experiment rather than a dependable part of orchid care, however, as its nutrient strength is impossible to judge and traces of caffeine may remain. I don't recommend it, but if you're determined to try it, then only use it very occasionally on already-damp roots, discard it if it smells sour or fermented, and flush the pot with plain water at the next watering. A specialist orchid fertilizer should remain the plant’s main source of nutrition.

For soil-grown orchids, composting the grounds first removes most of the risks. Around six months in a heap or a Costway dual-chamber compost tumbler from Walmart allows microbes to break the grounds down into something crumbly and stable. Much of the caffeine will have degraded, and the nitrogen has already passed through the microbial process that would otherwise need to happen in the pot.

Keep the ratio sensible while it cooks. Grounds need plenty of brown material alongside them – dry leaves or shredded cardboard – since a heap built largely from coffee can turn slimy rather than breaking down cleanly. Once finished, that compost can be used sparingly around terrestrial orchids growing in soil. It still has no business in a container of bark, no matter how well composted it is.

Can Terrestrial Orchids Benefit From Coffee Compost?

Here the answer turns cautiously positive. A hardy ground orchid in a border has real soil under it, and the microbial community that comes with it. Work finished compost lightly into the surface, and it behaves as it would around any perennial. Structure improves. Nutrients arrive slowly, and the ground holds moisture further into summer.

Restraint is the whole game, though. A thin scattering once or twice a season does it, kept clear of the crown and pseudobulbs where trapped moisture starts rot. Uncomposted grounds piled on thickly cause something different – soil microbes go after that fresh carbon and pull available nitrogen out of circulation while they work. The plant goes hungry through the exact weeks it's putting on growth. That reverses eventually, but it can cost a season of flowering first.

Signs Coffee Grounds Are Harming Your Orchid

The medium tells you first. Bark still wet several days after watering has lost its drainage, and a white or gray bloom across the surface confirms it. A sour, fermented smell from the pot says the same thing. Small dark flies rising when the plant gets moved point at gnats breeding in there.

Roots give the clearest verdict, and a clear pot makes them visible. Healthy orchid roots look plump and silvery green when wet. Anything brown and soft has drowned, and a root that collapses under light pressure is past saving. Above the pot, watch for leaves turning yellow from the lowest ones upward, or a plant that stops producing new growth entirely for a season. At that stage, repotting an orchid into fresh medium beats waiting to see whether it recovers.

Coffee Grounds Aren't a Substitute for Orchid Fertilizer

Orchid feeds are formulated around a limitation that explains this entire question. Many are urea-free because urea needs soil bacteria to convert it into a usable form, and a pot of bark simply doesn't hold enough of them. The same microbial gap that rules out urea rules out coffee grounds even more firmly.

For epiphytes in containers, a weak solution at every other watering covers what the plant needs, with an occasional plain water flush to clear accumulated salts. Anyone determined to use spent grounds should compost them properly and spread the results around terrestrial orchids outdoors. Moth orchids on a windowsill do better with something formulated for the job.

Orchid Essentials

A spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) asks for very little, which is half its charm. But July is the month it pays to give your plants a bit of attention. Warm rooms and bright summer light have spider plants growing fast, throwing out new leaves, and long stems that end in baby plantlets. Give your plant what it wants now and, by late summer, you'll be looking at a full, cascading plant with spiderettes to spare.

Good spider plant care functions on the same handful of principles year-round, but July shuffles the order of priorities. Heat puts water and light near the top of the to-do list and it opens up the best stretch of the year for multiplying your spider plant into a fuller flush of spiderettes.

A few small jobs over the coming weeks and the results turn up in the leaves and lots of new spider babies. Here’s what your spider plant needs this month to keep it thriving for the rest of the year.

1. Water Steadily

A spider plant that took a week to dry out in spring can go dry in a few days once July heat sets in. So check more often. Sticking a finger into the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil will help you tell if soil is dry enough for another watering. Or use a soil moisture meter, like this one from Amazon.

Water your spider plants so that the soil is evenly moist, but never soggy and never bone dry. Let it swing between those extremes and the plant sulks, pouring what energy it has into hanging on rather than making spiderettes.

The water itself is worth a thought here, too, since spider plants are unusually touchy about water quality. Fluoride and chlorine in tap water build up over time and show up as crispy brown leaf tips on spider plants. Rainwater, distilled water, or tap water that you left out overnight avoids the problem. It's an easy swap to make once the tips start browning.

2. Feed Lightly

All that summer growth runs on nutrients. But spider plants are light feeders, so treating one like a hungry tomato can actually do more harm than good.

Applying a half-strength liquid houseplant food, every two to four weeks while it's actively growing, keeps the foliage deep green and the plantlets coming. Something gentle, like this Grow Queen Organic Liquid Indoor Plant Food from Amazon, does the job at a reduced dose.

Pour on more than that and it backfires. Excess fertilizer leaves salts behind in the soil and those salts can burn the leaf tips the same way hard tap water does. A plant that’s busy coping with that won't have spare energy for producing spiderettes.

If you've already overdone it and given your plant too much fertilizer, run plain water through the pot for a minute to flush out the mineral buildup, then dial back fertilizing your spider plant.

3. Give It Bright, Indirect Light

Light is the lever that most affects whether you get spider plantlets at all. A spider plant in a dim corner survives, but it stays sparse and rarely bothers with producing babies.

Set your plant where it get plenty of bright, indirect light – a little back from a sunny window, or right up against a north or east one. A mature plant answers by sending out more of the arching stems that become spiderettes.

Direct summer sun is the one thing to steer clear of. Midday rays through glass can scorch foliage, bleaching it pale and leaving burnt patches, especially on variegated types of spider plants.

If the leaves look washed out, move the pot back from the glass. A quarter turn each week keeps growth even, rather than the whole plant leaning toward the window.

4. Provide Plenty of Humidity

Crank the air conditioning and your indoor air goes bone-dry, which spider plants feel keenly. Those same brown tips trace partly back to dry air. Dry, warm rooms are exactly what spider mites look for, too. They're ready to settle onto a plant that's already stressed. Nudging the humidity up a little shuts down both problems at once.

There are a couple other low-effort fixes that work well, too. Cluster a few plants together or stand the pot on a tray of pebbles and water and the air right around your spider plant stays moister.

Misting adds to the humidity as well, and a Fiskars plant mister from Amazon is just a thirty-second job on a hot morning. But one caution: don't leave foliage damp into the night because moisture sitting on the leaves invites fungal spots.

5. Pot Up Spiderettes

Those dangling plantlets on your spider plant are one of the big benefits of growing this houseplant and July is a good time to turn them into new plants. Once a spiderette has grown a few small nub-like roots of its own, it's ready to pot up to propagate more spider plants for free.

Here's the method that gives the best result: set 4-inch (10 cm) nursery pots, like these ones from Walmart, filled with damp potting mix right next to the parent plant, and peg the still-attached spiderette into the soil. It roots in place while the parent keeps feeding it.

A couple of weeks later, once it has taken hold in the fresh soil, snip the runner that joins it to the parent. Rooting spiderettes in a glass of water works as well, if you cut them off first, though the soil-and-peg method tends to produce a stronger plant.

Whichever route you take, the potted babies can fill out thin spots in your existing display and leave you extras to hand off to anyone who admires the original.

6. Repot If It's Crowded

Here's something a little counterintuitive: spider plants flower and set plantlets best when they're root bound, so hold off on repotting in July unless absolutely necessary. A snug pot encourages your plants to produce more babies.

Repot spider plants only when they genuinely need it. Signs your plant needs repotting are thick white roots shoving above the soil line and coiling out the drainage holes or a pot that dries within a day of watering.

When it really is time to repot, move up a single pot size and use fresh, well-draining potting mix, like this houseplant potting soil from Miracle-Gro. Jumping to a huge container can backfire, since all that extra wet soil around the roots invites rot and stalls the plant's growth while it tries to fill the space.

July's active growth means a spider plant bounces back from repotting fast, so it's a fine month for the job – as long as the plant actually needs it.

Orchids have a reputation for being fussy, but most of what they need in July is simple – it just has to actually happen. Summer is a growth season, even when they're not flowering. Behind the scenes, the plant is banking energy for its next flower spike months down the line. Get the summer care right, and that spike comes in strong. Get one thing badly wrong, and you can quietly cancel next season's show before it starts.

Good orchid care in summer comes down to a handful of small tasks and avoiding that one costly slip. None of it takes long, but you need to get into a good rhythm. Steady, moderate care beats sporadic bursts of attention.

Most houseplant orchids are Phalaenopsis (aka moth orchids), so that's the assumption here, though the advice carries to most common types of orchids. If you want to expand your collection, then other good beginner varieties include Dendrobium and Cattleya orchids – both of which are included in this well-rated five-plant set from Angel's Orchids via Amazon.

1. Get the Light Right – and Avoid the Scorch

This is it. The mistake that quietly costs people their next round of flowers. Never leave your orchid sitting in direct summer sun. The leaves scorch fast – a bleached or browned patch that never heals – and those leaves are the plant's whole engine for powering the next spike. Damage them in July, and it's not just an ugly leaf you're dealing with; it's a missing bloom cycle. Summer sun through a south or west window hits far harder than winter light; a plant that was fine there in January can start burning now.

Bright but filtered is the target. An east window is close to perfect; for anything brighter, a sheer curtain takes the edge off. A self-adhesive portable curtain, like this one on Amazon, lets you temporarily protect plants without drilling. You can just take it down once the high heat of summer has passed.

If you're not sure whether your orchid's light levels are correct, check the leaves. Grassy green is about right; dark forest green wants more; anything bleached or reddish means pull it back fast. Mine sit a couple of feet (60 cm) back from a south window behind a thin curtain, which is the sweet spot in summer.

2. Rethink Watering for the Heat

Orchids drink more in summer, plain and simple. Warmth and active growth dry the bark faster, so the winter rhythm needs to tighten up. Watering orchids on a strict calendar, though, is how roots rot – check first, every time. In a clear pot, silvery-gray roots mean it's thirsty and still-green roots mean wait. No clear pot? Lift it: light means dry, heavy means hold off.

When you water, do it properly – run it through until it pours from the drainage holes, then let it drain fully. The one rule I never break: don't leave water sitting in the crown, that central well where the leaves meet. Trapped there, it invites crown rot, which can kill a Phalaenopsis outright. A quick dab with a paper towel clears any that pools. Morning watering gives the plant all day to dry.

3. Give Them More Humidity

Most orchids come from humid, tropical places and want the air around 50 to 70 percent. Summer works against that, oddly – not the outdoor air, but the air conditioning, which pulls moisture from a room fast. Too little, and the plant shows it: leaves go slightly wrinkled, and developing buds can shrivel and drop before opening. That last one, known as orchid bud blast, stings after months of waiting.

An easy fix is a humidity tray – a shallow water reservoir with pebbles that hold the pot above the waterline, so evaporation raises humidity without the roots sitting in water. This humidity tray from Amazon does just that under a windowsill grouping. Clustering plants together helps too. Misting gets pushed a lot, but it's honestly weak and short-lived, and late-day misting leaves water pooled where you don't want it. If all else fails, use a small humidifier, like this Levoit model.

4. Feed While They're Growing

Summer is prime orchid feeding time – the plant is growing and can use the nutrients. The old grower's phrase is “weakly, weekly”: a regular diluted feed at a quarter to half label strength, not a heavy dose now and then.

A balanced, urea-free orchid food, like Better-Gro Orchid Plus, diluted to under the bottle's suggested strength, is the standard pick. Urea nitrogen isn't much use to a plant rooted in bark.

One important rule to remember: never feed a bone-dry plant. Salts on parched roots scorch them, same as on anything else – water first, or feed right after a normal watering. Once a month, flush the pot with plain water to rinse out built-up salts before they burn the roots.

5. Keep the Air Moving

Air movement is one of those things nobody thinks about until something goes wrong. In the wild, orchids grow in trees with near-constant breeze over their roots and leaves. On a still windowsill in a warm, humid room, they lose that – and stagnant, damp air is where fungal spots and rot get started. A little moving air keeps leaf surfaces dry and the setup far less welcoming to trouble.

A small fan on its lowest setting, aimed to stir the air near the plants rather than blast them, does the job. This Gaiatop Portable Clip-on Fan is ideal – clamp it to a shelf edge, and it moves just enough without drying things out or knocking buds around.

Aim for a gentle drift, not a wind tunnel; if the leaves are whipping, it's too much. A few hours a day suffices.

6. Stay Ahead of Summer Pests

Warm weather wakes up the orchid pests. The biggest summer offenders are usually mealybugs – check for their little cottony white specks tucked into leaf joints. Scale shows up as small brown bumps that scrape off with a fingernail, while spider mites leave fine webbing and a dull, stippled look.

The trick is catching them early, before a handful becomes an infestation. A once-over every week or two does it – flip the leaves, check the crown, and peer into the tight spots.

For a light case, a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol wipes mealybugs and scale right off. Bigger outbreaks want more reach – neem oil smothers soft-bodied pests and doubles as a mild fungicide. A popular organic pick is Bonide Captain Jack's neem oil. Spray it on a cool, shaded evening so it doesn't bake onto the leaves.

Move an affected plant away from the others while you sort it out. It takes no time for pests to jump between orchids sitting shoulder to shoulder.

July Orchid Care Essentials

I'm the sort of person who cries at adverts, so you'd best believe I'm always slightly heartbroken when a bromeliad finishes flowering. And can you blame me? After weeks – sometimes months – of those spectacular, colourful bracts stealing the show, it's all too easy to assume the plant's best days are behind it.

Fortunately, in a delightfully Sir Terry Pratchett-esque turn of events, the secret to coaxing more blooms may be sitting in your fruit bowl. Because, yes, there may be a way to encourage a bromeliad to bloom again, and it all involves our beloved bananas exploiting a new niche.

Don't believe me? Well, consider this: in the wild, bromeliads are exposed to ethylene as fallen fruit ripens around them, and the gas can act as a signal that it's time to flower. And where does ethylene gas come from?

Why, it's a naturally occurring plant hormone released by ripening fruit, of course. Ripening fruit like (you guessed it) bananas.

How Bananas Can Encourage Bromeliads to Bloom

That's right, folks; in the wild, these colorful houseplants are exposed to ethylene as fallen bananas ripen around them, and the gas can act as a signal that it's time to flower.

To recreate this at home, gardeners often place a mature bromeliad inside a clear plastic bag with a ripe banana or apple for around seven to 10 days. The fruit releases ethylene gas, which may trigger the plant to produce a new flower spike over the following weeks or months.

Patience is essential, however. Bromeliads are not quick to rebloom, and results can vary depending on the species, the age of the plant, and growing conditions. Bright, indirect light and consistent care will still play a major role in encouraging flowers.

It’s also worth noting that the original bromeliad rosette flowers only once in its lifetime. After blooming, the mother plant gradually declines while producing offsets, or “pups,” around its base. These pups can eventually mature and flower themselves, extending the life of your bromeliad collection for years.

Still, for anyone mourning the loss of their bromeliad’s colourful display, the humble banana might just be worth a try. And bromeliads aren’t the only plants where ripe bananas can influence flowering behaviour. In fact, ethylene is already used in commercial horticulture to help regulate flowering and ripening in a wide range of crops.

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In some ornamental plants and tropical species, exposure to ethylene can help trigger or synchronise blooming, which is why gardeners sometimes experiment with placing ripe bananas near plants that are reluctant to flower.

That said, this is not a universal flowering hack. Many common houseplants and garden species won’t respond at all, and some can even be negatively affected by prolonged exposure to ripening bananas in enclosed spaces. Which means you should think of the banana trick less as a guaranteed solution, and more as a gentle nudge for plants that are already close to their natural flowering point.

For bromeliads, though, that whole "just add bananas" idea remains one of the more intriguing experiments. It’s probably not going to turn your kitchen into a tropical greenhouse of miracles overnight, sure, but it does make you wonder if, somewhere in the background, your plants are quietly taking notes every time you restock the fruit bowl.

The peace lily has a reputation as the houseplant nobody can kill, which is mostly fair and a little misleading. It survives low light and shrugs off neglectful watering – but then makes you pay by going dull and brown-tipped, and becoming slow to flower. June is when that neglect shows, as warmth and longer days push it into growth.

Good peace lily care in June is less about rescue than upkeep: small adjustments to watering and light, feeding included, that keep the leaves glossy and coax out the white spathes. None of these tasks is difficult, and most take a few minutes. A peace lily that gets the full set looks the part by midsummer: glossy leaves, the odd bloom, and no brown edges spoiling the look.

1. Step Up the Watering, and Check What’s in the Water

A peace lily drinks faster in June’s warmth and active growth, so the once-a-week winter routine can leave it quite thirsty. The plant makes its needs plain: leaves go limp and the whole thing sags when the soil dries, perking up within hours of a drink. Useful as that signal is, repeated hard wilting wears it down, so check the top inch (2–3 cm) of soil every few days and water your peace lily once it feels dry.

What comes out of the tap matters more than you’d think. Peace lilies are sensitive to chlorine and fluoride in treated water, and salts don’t help – brown, crispy tips are the usual result. Standing water overnight clears the chlorine; filtered or rainwater handles the fluoride. One of mine grows with its roots down in an axolotl tank, the glossiest of the bunch, since that water stays dechlorinated and filtered.

Peace Lily June Care Essentials

2. Raise the Humidity Around Your Plant

A peace lily comes off the damp floor of tropical forests; a living room in summer is the opposite. Air conditioning pulls moisture from a room fast, and the strain tends to show first at the leaf edges, which brown and turn papery. Grouping a few plants together helps a little, since each raises the humidity around the others as it transpires.

For a real change, moisture has to go back into the air directly. A Levoit cool mist humidifier from Amazon near the plant holds humidity up better than misting does – a quick mist looks productive but dries off within the hour. A pebble tray is the low-tech version: a dish of water and stones keeping the pot above the waterline, topped up as it evaporates. Either way, the aim is to have air closer to the understory than to a desert

3. Feed, but With a Light Hand

June sits in the feeding window, since a peace lily only uses fertilizer while growing hard through spring and summer. The catch is that it’s a light feeder, and the usual mistake is being too generous. Piling it on doesn’t buy more flowers; it builds up as salts that scorch the tips and push the plant toward soft, leafy growth instead of blooms.

When fertilizing peace lilies, a balanced liquid feed at half label strength, every four to six weeks, is plenty. Reach for a formula designed for houseplants, like Espoma Organic Indoor Plant Food, and there’s little to get wrong.

Flushing the pot with plain water periodically clears the salts feeding leaves behind. I spent years blaming my tapwater alone for brown tips before realizing the soil had salted up from overfeeding – a flush fixed it faster than switching water did.

4. Wipe the Leaves Until They Shine

Those broad, glossy leaves are most of a peace lily’s appeal, and they double as dust magnets. The film builds faster than expected, dulling the shine and, worse, blocking the light the plant needs to photosynthesize and flower. The fix is about as simple as plant care gets: wipe each leaf with a soft, damp cloth, with a hand underneath for support so it doesn’t bend or tear.

Plain water on a microfiber cloth (I use this one from Amazon) is the whole kit; skip the commercial leaf-shine sprays, which coat the surface and clog the pores it breathes through. I use my own DIY spray, but a drop of mild soap will do to shift any greasy residue – just rinse after.

Cleaning houseplant leaves is also a good time to spot pests. Check the undersides, where spider mites and mealybugs settle first; a leaf you’re already wiping is a leaf you’re inspecting. Caught there, they rarely become a real infestation.

5. Get the Light Right for Summer

Light is where the flowering question gets settled. A peace lily wants bright, indirect light to bloom; in a dim corner, it stays green but seldom throws a spathe. A plant that never flowers is usually one that’s too dark. The instinct is to shift it to the brightest window, and in summer, that can backfire.

The summer sun sits higher and harder than in spring, and direct midday light through glass can scorch the leaves, bleaching pale patches that don’t recover. The sweet spot is bright light through a sheer curtain, or a spot a few feet back from a sunny window – strong, but never direct. East-facing windows tend to suit it, with gentle morning sun and shade once the afternoon turns. Washed-out leaves or dry brown patches mean it’s getting too much; pull it back a foot or two (30–60cm), and it usually settles.

6. Cut Spent Blooms Back to the Base

A peace lily flower doesn’t bow out gracefully. The white spathe greens over, then browns at the edges and turns shabby while the rest of the plant is still going. A spent bloom does nothing and pulls the eye to the tattiest part of the plant, so take it off completely rather than trim the brown back.

When pruning peace lilies, follow the flower stalk to where it rises from the crown and cut it there with a clean, sharp pair of precision pruning shears – Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips are ideal. Leaving a stub invites rot and looks worse than the bloom did.

Bear in mind, an immature peace lily won’t rebloom on cue: nurseries force those uniform shop-floor blooms with a hormone – gibberellic acid – so a young plant at home may not be mature enough to flower yet. Given decent light and a season or two, though, it gets there on its own.

There comes a point in every houseplant lover's journey when the collection starts to look less like a carefully curated indoor jungle and more like you've accidentally opened a small garden centre in your living room. I should know – for the jury's consideration, please see Exhibit A: my bathroom windowsill.

If you know, you know. Shelves groan under the weight of pots, your houseplants have a definite Day of The Triffids vibe to them, propagations take over every available surface, and your once-stylish windowsill has disappeared beneath a sea of mismatched terracotta and nursery containers.

It's a very real problem, essentially, for anyone who has lived it. And that's why I was immediately taken with these stackable mini greenhouses when I stumbled across them during another late-night doomscroll session.

Stackable Mini Greenhouses? Sign Me Up!

Rather than simply housing plants, these stackable mini greenhouses from HB Life turns them into a display in their own right – creating a clean, contemporary look that feels more boutique hotel than chaotic plant parent.

Made from clear acrylic, the transparent walls mean light can still reach your plants, while the magnetic door provides easy access for watering, pruning, or simply admiring your latest leafy acquisition.

Measuring 14.1 x 8.6 x 10.6 inches, these stackable mini greenhouses are compact enough to sit on a desk, shelf, sideboard, or windowsill, making them ideal for small spaces. And, even better, ambitious plant parents can create a striking vertical display without sacrificing precious floor space.

The greenhouse is designed for seed starting and propagation, making it a particularly attractive option for anyone nurturing cuttings. It is also perfectly suited to small houseplants, too; think tropical plants such as begonias, ferns, baby alocasias, and philodendron cuttings, all of which could all benefit from the more sheltered environment.

"Only just put them together, but currently rating 5 stars! I needed a way to give my plants sunlight without my kittens knocking them over or eating them," reads one five-star review on Amazon.

Another adds that it did wonders for their humidity-loving houseplants, noting: "I like that it's plastic so I don't have to worry about accidently breaking it."

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Still, let's be honest; practicality is really only half the appeal here, as what really elevates this greenhouse is its aesthetic potential. For renters, apartment dwellers, or anyone trying to bring a little more order to an ever-expanding plant collection (guilty as charged!), it could be an elegant solution to a surprisingly common problem: how to keep your houseplants looking chic rather than cluttered.

Houseplants are not all the same. Some decorate a side table or sit quietly near the kitchen window. Others have star quality and light up a room. Fiddle leaf figs (Ficus lyrata) fall squarely in the “star” category with their huge, shiny, violin-shaped leaves and proud, upright carriage. I happen to share my San Francisco apartment with three of them and consider them part of my family.

But every houseplant needs some care, no matter how strong and magnificent they look. And in June, as spring turns to summer, it’s time to focus on fiddle leaf fig care. Generally, these houseplants need bright indirect light, humidity and consistent watering. But in June, it’s time to go a little further.

Here are five tasks to put on your fiddle leaf fig list for the month.

1. Check Sun Exposure

When I first adopted a fiddle leaf fig plant, I associated it closely with a fig tree. I have planted a few fig trees in my garden in France, so I know their growth requirements very well. Fig trees I like sun, direct sun. My plants get sun 8 hours a day. As a word smith, I latched onto the word “fig tree” in my fiddle leaf’s common name and just went with it, placing my houseplant by a southern facing window.

But fiddle leaf fig plants are not closely related to fig trees and their light needs are different. Those gorgeous fiddle-shaped leaves need indirect light, not direct sunlight. Mine came in with large, lush, leathery leaves but these quickly turned crispy in full sun.

Even if you didn’t make the same mistake that I did, June is the moment to check your plant’s sun exposure. As spring matures into summer, the sun’s path across the sky changes and its intensity increases. One June day when you are spending the day at home, monitor the sunlight on your fiddle leaf every few hours. A tad of morning sun isn’t so bad, but if the rays of afternoon sunlight touch the leaves of your houseplant, move it to another location.

2. Figure Out if the Temperature is Spiking

Fiddle leaf figs are picky about a variety of things, but they are fairly tolerant when it comes to temperatures. They will thrive in average household temperatures (as low as 60 degrees F and as high as 85 degrees) as long as there are no temperature swings. Too big a temperature swing can cause drooping leaves.

As the sun exposure shifts in June, the temperature of the room in which your fiddle leaf is located may change too. You can combine this task with the previous one. Every time you check on sun exposure, check the thermometer too. A simple combination thermometer/hygrometer from Amazon will help immensely when caring for your houseplants.

A swing upward may result from too much direct sunlight entering the room, and a swing downward may result from extra air conditioner time. If that’s the case, it’s time to move the houseplant to a room without temperature swings.

3. Dust Those Beautiful Leaves

Dusting fiddle leaf fig leaves should not be restricted to June, but June is a good month to restart this every-other-week task if you have neglected it. Dust on the leaves impedes the process of photosynthesis. And it also lessens the beauty of the iconic foliage.

How to dust? Use a damp cloth and gently wipe both sides of every leaf. Microfiber cloth works well. Be sure to hold the leaf with one hand while you wipe it with the other. It’ll break your heart if you accidentally crack off the leaf.

4. Review Your Watering Habits

Fiddle leaf fig houseplants need regular irrigation, but they are somewhat picky about how much. They prefer moist soil but object to excess water. They’ll let you know by dropping their leaves and, if the condition continues, developing root rot. They will signal too little water, the leaves wilt and the color dulls. Generally, you want to water when the top two inches of soil are dry. You don’t have to use a tape measure. Just poke a finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. Or purchase a small moisture meter from Amazon.

If you keep your houseplant in a clay pot, you’ll have to worry about high salt levels in the soil. Salt can accumulate in the soil from the clay pot, or from watering with treated water. June is the perfect time to flush out the salt buildup. Run tap water into the soil until it pours out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the container. If the tap water is fluorinated, use filtered water instead.

5. Repot Your Fiddle Leaf Fig

June is the perfect time to check whether it’s time to repot your fiddle leaf fig houseplant. You don’t want it to be short of soil with summer rolling in. How can you tell if it’s time?

The plant’s leaves are a good thermometer of distress. If the leaves are yellowing or falling off, it may be a sign that it has outgrown its pot. Another indication is that the plant's roots are growing up and out of the pot or down and out of the drain holes. Finally, if there are no new leaves or growth, or the soil pales, it’s time to repot. Get a container just size bigger than the old one and put a base layer of fresh potting soil into the bottom.

The key to repotting your houseplant is to water it well a few days earlier. When it’s repotting day, turn the container on its side and wiggle out the plug of soil and roots. Trim off any dead or damaged roots. Sit the fiddle leaf fig in the new pot and add a 1:1 mix of old soil with new potting soil to fill the pot.

I've been growing plants indoors for nearly two decades, and during that time I've learned that the right equipment can make all the difference. From raising seedlings under lights to growing herbs, vegetables, and tropical plants year-round, I've spent countless hours testing products to find out which ones genuinely improve results and which are all marketing hype.

Grow lights have probably seen the biggest transformation over the years. I've used everything from old fluorescent tubes to bulky HID systems, but modern LED technology has changed the game. Today's full-spectrum LEDs are more energy-efficient, longer-lasting, and capable of producing impressive growth without generating excessive heat.

I've taken a similar trial-and-error approach with fertilizers, potting mixes, hydroponic nutrients, and smart gardening gadgets. Thanks to my background in plant and soil science, I'm always looking beyond the marketing claims to understand what actually benefits plant growth. The products that make this list aren't just popular – they're tools I'd happily use in my own indoor garden.

Amazon Prime Day is one of the few shopping events where I actively look for gardening deals. It's often the best time to pick up premium grow lights, hydroponic systems, seed-starting equipment, and other indoor gardening essentials at prices that are significantly lower than normal.

My Amazon Prime Day Indoor Gardening Deal Picks

To help separate the worthwhile discounts from the hundreds of mediocre offers, I've rounded up the Prime Day deals that stand out for indoor gardeners. Whether you're setting up your first grow space or upgrading an established collection, these are the products most deserving of a spot on your shortlist.

Every recommendation below has been selected with performance, value, and long-term reliability in mind. They're the kinds of products that can make indoor gardening easier, more productive, and ultimately more enjoyable long after Prime Day has ended.

Amazon Prime Day is one of the best times of the year to upgrade your indoor garden without overspending. After nearly 20 years of growing everything from seedlings and vegetables to tropical houseplants indoors, I've learned which tools are genuinely worth investing in – and Prime Day is often when those products see their biggest discounts.

Whether you're looking for full-spectrum grow lights, premium potting mixes, or smart growing accessories, these deals can help you build a healthier, more productive indoor garden for less. If something catches your eye, it's worth acting quickly, as the best Prime Day gardening deals often sell out before the event ends.

Moving houseplants outdoors for summer can be a huge change for them. Light levels outside, even in shade, run far higher than most indoor spots – and that difference shows up in growth rate, color, and in some cases flowering that never happens indoors. The catch is that not every plant considers the transition as an opportunity.

Good houseplant care is partly about reading what a plant actually needs rather than what seems intuitive. Some of the toughest-looking indoor plants are surprisingly fragile outside, and some of the fussier ones are waiting for exactly this.

Houseplants That Can Go Outside in June

These five plants can benefit from a summer outdoors – some dramatically, others more quietly.

1. Croton

The color is the reason to do this. Crotons kept indoors tend to stay green and a bit flat – the deep reds and burnt oranges only come in under strong direct sun, and June is when that's available. A spot with several hours of direct light per day will push the foliage into the best coloring the plant has produced, probably ever. Heat doesn't bother them; they're one of the few houseplants that genuinely thrives in conditions that stress everything around them. Bring them back inside before nights drop below 50F (10C).

2. Snake Plant

Snake plants are generally tolerant to changes outdoors in summer, and the extra light does something most people haven't seen from theirs indoors – it can trigger flowering. Small and fragrant on tall spikes, the blooms are rare enough that many longtime owners have never encountered them. Bright indirect light to partial sun is where they do best; direct afternoon sun in a hot climate risks bleaching the leaves, so a spot with some midday shelter is worth finding rather than assuming full sun is fine.

3. Fiddle Leaf Fig

Shelter is the condition that makes this work, not just light. Fiddle leaf figs want the humidity and higher light that summer offers, but a strong wind can tear the large leaves, and even a single cold draft can trigger drop. A covered porch or patio corner with bright indirect light is the right setup – not an open garden bed. The new leaves that come in over summer tend to be noticeably larger than anything produced indoors.

A heavy-duty plant caddy from Amazon helps move a large pot gradually rather than hauling it in one go, and transitioning it over a week or two beats going straight from a dim room to bright outdoor light.

4. Cacti and Succulents

Most cacti and succulents grown indoors are light-starved, even in a bright window – they just don't show it dramatically. Outside in June, that changes. Intense direct sun keeps growth compact and well-colored rather than the stretched, pale etiolation that develops indoors over time. Full sun is fine for most species. Watering frequency needs adjustment though; outdoor heat dries pots faster than expected, and these plants will take more moisture than the standard hands-off approach suggests when they're actively growing.

5. Boston Fern

Humidity is what Boston ferns want, and a shaded outdoor spot in June delivers it naturally. Hanging from a covered porch or pergola beam where air moves gently around the fronds, these plants put on growth through summer that indoor conditions rarely produce. Keep them out of direct sun – the fronds scorch quickly – and check moisture more often than usual since they dry out fast in warm air. The difference between a fern kept indoors all summer and one that spent it on a porch is significant.

Houseplants That Should Stay Inside

These five plants that tend to struggle outdoors, even in conditions that seem reasonably ideal.

1. African Violet

Water sitting on the fuzzy leaves of an African violet in direct sun causes damage – the cells overheat and the result is brown scorched patches that don't recover. Beyond the leaf issue, African violets are calibrated to stable indoor conditions: consistent temperature, indirect light, no drafts. Outdoor air introduces all three problems at once. They're not fragile plants in the right environment, but that environment is specifically indoors. Moving one outside for the summer is a reliable way to lose it.

2. Calathea

Calatheas are dramatic indoors about light and humidity; outside, those sensitivities get worse. Direct sun crisps the leaves within hours. Even a shift in outdoor humidity – dry afternoon, humid evening – can bring on curling and browning that takes weeks to show full recovery, if it does. Outdoor conditions rarely stay within the narrow range these plants need. The best place for a calathea in June is wherever it's been all year, undisturbed.

3. Phalaenopsis Orchid

The aerial roots of a Phalaenopsis dry out quickly in outdoor air, even in humidity that seems adequate. Direct sun burns the leaves fast – sometimes within a single afternoon. Stress from temperature swings between warm days and cool nights tends to show up weeks later as yellowing leaves or bud drop, by which point the damage is already done. These plants aren't as fragile as their reputation – but they're built for stable indoor light, and a bright kitchen or bathroom window is a better June situation than any outdoor spot.

4. Peace Lily

Peace lilies wilt noticeably when outdoor temperatures climb, and they don't bounce back the way a more tolerant plant would – they stay collapsed until conditions ease, which in June may not happen until evening. Stable and relatively cool is what they're adapted to. Direct sun burns the leaves; even bright outdoor shade can push more light than they're comfortable with. A small clip-on grow light from Walmart gives a peace lily the boost it needs indoors without the stress of moving it anywhere.

5. ZZ Plant

ZZ plants survive low indoor light through drought tolerance and slow metabolism – traits that don't translate into outdoor toughness. In direct sun the glossy leaves bleach to yellow fast. Temperature fluctuations outdoors can harm the rhizomes in ways that don't surface until the whole plant starts to go, by which point recovery is unlikely. It tolerates neglect indoors because the conditions stay consistent. Outside in June, that consistency disappears and so does the resilience.

A glass conservatory is an elegant addition to any home, but it’s not practical for most of us. The good news is you don’t need one to create a similar vibe: lush, elegant, rich, and maybe a little Mediterranean.

All you need are the right houseplants. From glossy foliage to exotic flowers, these summer-blooming beauties will help you create a relaxed conservatory feel in your everyday spaces.

Keep reading to see which are the perfect plants to create the vibe, and the necessary care for each one.

1. Peace Lily

When it comes to easy houseplant care, it’s hard to do better than a peace lily. But its forgiving nature is not the only reason peace lily is a popular houseplant. It has beautiful, large, deep green leaves that are complemented by elegant, trumpet-shaped flowers that bloom in summer.

You can find large peace lilies to tower over smaller plants, but also compact varieties perfect for plant stands and tabletops. Peace lilies are very forgiving, but they grow best with consistently moist soil and bright, indirect light. Let your peace lily get a little pot-bound, which it prefers, and don’t overfeed it. Find the perfect peace lily from Lively Root.

2. Calamondin Orange Tree

If there’s one type of plant that instantly creates the feeling of a sun-drenched European conservatory, it’s citrus. Calamondin orange (Citrus x microcarpa) is a perfect choice for your orangery. It’s small and compact and grows well in a large container. This orange has glossy, evergreen leaves, fragrant white flowers, and miniature fruits that stay on the branches for months.

Your calamondin orange needs bright, direct light, so place it by a south-facing window. There, it can act as a screen for your other plants that prefer indirect or dappled light. The soil in its container should drain very well and be slightly acidic, and remember that it’s better to under-water than over-water this tree. You can find a Calamondin orange tree on sale at Fast Growing Trees.

3. Cape Primrose

Cape primrose is a large genus of small flowering plants. The most well-known type is African violet, a timeless and popular houseplant. Native to warm, moist regions of the globe, cape primrose plants thrive in a conservatory-like environment and offer an abundance of colorful flowers, not just in summer but year-round.

African violets are pretty, but don’t limit yourself. Look for other types of cape primrose, including the many hybrids for a variety of sizes, leaf shapes, and flower colors. Give your plants bright but indirect light and keep the soil moist but not soggy or waterlogged. Use a flower-boosting fertilizer, this one from Miracle-Gro which can be found at Amazon, to encourage abundant blooms all year. Find a cape primrose hanging basket from Hirt's Gardens through Walmart.

4. Hibiscus

For the ultimate tropical feel in your makeshift conservatory, choose one or more hibiscus plants. This is a large group of varied plants, from perennials to shrubs to small trees. The flowers, which bloom in summer, are large and come in nearly every color.

Whichever type you pick, your hibiscus will thrive in a spot with full sun. Like a citrus tree, you place it by a bright window and let it filter light for other plants. Keep the soil in the pot consistently moist and use a bloom-boosting fertilizer throughout the summer. Hibiscus flowers only last a day or two, but with adequate nutrients, the plant will keep producing new flowers for months. Find a 'French Cabaret' red hibiscus shrub at the Home Depot.

5. Chenille Plant

Chenille means caterpillar in French, which perfectly describes this plant’s unique flowers. They’re long, fuzzy, red, and definitely resemble caterpillars. Native to the South Pacific, this is an excellent houseplant that can potentially grow six feet (1.8 m) tall. As a potted plant, it’s likely to stay smaller.

Chenille plant is fun, playful, and tropical, and adds both color and texture to contrast with other plants. It grows best in bright, direct light and with consistently moist soil that drains well. Use fertilizer regularly to support fast growth and plenty of year-round flowers. Place your chenille plant on a table or plant stand to allow its dramatic flowers to cascade. Find a cute and unique chenille plant from GardenGalsPlants nursery on Etsy.

6. Bird of Paradise

This is one of the most dramatic flowers you can find. The name describes the multicolored blooms that look like birds in flight. The striking flowers are set against the dark, glossy leaves that can be as big as 18 inches (46 cm). This combination will give any room a high-end, tropical conservatory feel.

Growing a bird of paradise for its gorgeous foliage isn’t difficult. Coaxing it to bloom indoors is a little trickier, but well worth the effort. The plant needs warmth, humidity, consistently moist but well-drained soil, and regular feeding during the growing season.

Your bird of paradise should mostly enjoy full, direct sunlight to encourage blooms; however, the leaves might suffer. The best balance is to provide some shade, for instance, from a sheer curtain you can pull across the window, during the brightest afternoon hours. Find a brilliant orange bird of paradise plant from Fast Growing Trees.

Creating an airy and elegant conservatory look is possible in any indoor space with the right conditions and carefully chosen plants. Use these and other striking tropical houseplants to create the perfect look and atmosphere.

For a long time, I assumed bonsai was the kind of hobby reserved for extremely patient people with tiny scissors, impossibly steady hands, and a level of inner calm I personally do not possess. When I stumbled across 5 stunning flowering bonsai trees that even beginners can grow, though, my mindset shifted.

Yes, traditional bonsai can sometimes look a little intimidating to beginners. Flowering varieties, though? Well, they make the effort feel worthwhile, as one minute you’ve got a miniature tree sitting on a windowsill, and the next it’s covered in tiny blooms like something from a fairy garden.

And guess what? Even though they have a very delicate appearance, there are actually a handful of flowering bonsai varieties that are actually surprisingly beginner-friendly. Many are adaptable, forgiving, and relatively easy to shape with a bit of basic care and patience, even! What could be better?

Flowering Bonsai Trees That Even Beginners Can Grow

If you’ve always loved the idea of bonsai but weren’t sure where to start, these are some of the prettiest flowering bonsai trees worth trying first.

You’re welcome!

1. Azalea Bonsai

If you want maximum flowers with classic bonsai tree beauty, azaleas are hard to beat. During bloom season, the entire tree can become covered in vibrant pink, red, white, or purple flowers, creating a spectacular display that feels wildly disproportionate to its tiny size.

Satsuki azaleas are especially popular for bonsai because of their compact growth and long flowering period. And, while they are beginner-friendly (so long as you learn a few basic pruning techniques), just be aware that they do need consistent watering and prefer slightly acidic soil.

Few bonsai trees look more impressive sitting on a patio table in spring, quite frankly.

2. Bougainvillea Bonsai

Bougainvillea may not be the first plant people associate with bonsai, but it creates one of the most striking flowering displays imaginable.

Its vivid magenta, orange, pink, or purple bracts spill dramatically across the miniature branches, giving the entire tree a bold Mediterranean feel. It also tolerates pruning remarkably well, which makes it easier to shape than many beginners expect.

In warmer USDA planting zones, bougainvillea bonsai can thrive outdoors for much of the year, while cooler regions can grow it seasonally with winter protection indoors. Either way, well worth picking up your very own Bougainvillea Bonsai from Indoor Bonsai And Exotics.

3. Fukien Tea Bonsai

Fukien tea bonsai has become hugely popular with beginners partly because it’s compact, attractive, and capable of flowering multiple times a year indoors.

Its tiny white flowers are delicate and understated, often followed by small dark berries that make the tree feel even more ornamental. The glossy green leaves also naturally stay small, which helps create that classic mature bonsai appearance without excessive work.

It prefers warmth and bright light, making it especially well suited to indoor growing in many US homes. Don't all charge the checkouts at once!

4. Crabapple Bonsai

There’s something undeniably magical about a crabapple bonsai in bloom. In spring, the branches become covered in soft pink or white blossoms that look exactly like a full-sized orchard tree in miniature form.

Many varieties also produce tiny ornamental fruits afterward, adding even more seasonal interest through summer and fall. And, better still, crabapple bonsai are generally considered relatively beginner-friendly because they adapt so very nicely to outdoor bonsai growing conditions across much of the US.

They also happen to look absolutely stunning (seriously stunning). You can buy a Crabapple Bonsai Seedling from CZ Grain.

5. Brazilian Rain Tree Bonsai

The Brazilian rain tree has become something of a favorite among beginner bonsai growers because it grows quickly, responds well to pruning, and develops beautiful twisted trunks over time.

Its fluffy cream-colored flowers add another layer of interest during the growing season, while the delicate foliage folds inward at night or during cloudy weather – something that makes the tree feel oddly alive and interactive.

It’s tropical, fast-growing, and much more forgiving than many traditional bonsai species, which is exactly why so many newcomers fall in love with it. Join them in their devoted worshipping, why don't you?

Shop Bonsai Containers:

One of the nicest things about flowering bonsai is that they look so beautiful, which means they soften the... the intensity that people often associate with growing these tiny trees.

Honestly, while every bonsai tree needs some level of patience and care, beginners often underestimate how achievable the hobby actually is once you start with the right plant. Sometimes all it takes is one tiny flowering tree on a windowsill before you suddenly find yourself emotionally invested in miniature gardening forever.

Happy growing...

Snake plants have a reputation for surviving neglect, and it’s well-earned. They tolerate low light, irregular watering, and general inattention better than almost any other houseplant. May is the exception, though – as temperatures climb and daylight extends, snake plants shift out of the slow winter mode they’ve been in for months. That shift is brief, and a few well-timed tasks catch it at the right moment.

Good snake plant care through May makes a noticeable difference going into summer. These tasks cover what actually matters this month.

1. Resume a Regular Watering Schedule

Through winter, snake plants drink very little water – watering too frequently when growth is minimal is one of the faster ways to rot the roots. May changes that. Active growth is resuming, the soil dries out more quickly as temperatures rise, and the plant can actually use what you give it. Every two to three weeks is about right for most homes, though the soil itself is the real guide.

Push a finger two inches (5cm) into the mix – if it’s still damp, wait. Snake plants rot from overwatering far more often than they suffer from drought, and that doesn’t change in May. When the soil is dry, water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom, then step back and don’t touch it again until the mix dries out. A deep soak followed by a genuine dry period is what they want, not small amounts on a schedule. If in doubt, a more reliable tool like this 4-in-1 moisture meter from Amazon can make things simpler.

2. Repot... If Necessary

May is a good time to repot a snake plant if it’s due – active growth means it settles into new soil faster than a winter repot would. Root tips visible at the surface, anything pushing out of the drainage holes, a pot that rocks or tips when touched – any of those is a signal. Plants that have been sitting in the same container for three years or more are also due for a look, even if nothing is obviously telling you something’s wrong.

Go up only one pot size – snake plants do better in slightly snug containers and too much extra soil around the roots holds moisture longer than they like. A well-draining mix is important here; a cacti and succulent mix, or regular potting mix with added perlite, gives the drainage these plants need. Perlite from Amazon mixed into standard potting soil at roughly one part perlite to three parts mix is a reliable formula that improves drainage without sacrificing too much moisture retention for a repot.

3. Give It a Light Feed

Snake plant fertilizer needs are few – one light application of balanced liquid fertilizer in May takes advantage of the growth window without pushing the soft, weak growth that overfeeding can produce. Salt buildup, brown leaf tips, and stressed roots are the typical results of too much fertilizer, not too little. Once or twice through the growing season is enough for most plants.

Half the recommended strength is the right dilution – full strength stresses the roots more than it helps. The soil should already be slightly moist when you apply it; fertilizer going into dry soil is more likely to burn. If the plant was recently repotted, skip this entirely – fresh mix has enough in it to carry the plant through the first season without any help.

4. Move It to Brighter Light

Snake plants tolerate low light, but they’re not indifferent to it – growth is slower in a dim corner and the leaves can lose some of their crispness over time. May is a natural point to reconsider where the plant is sitting. Moving it closer to a window, or outside to a sheltered shaded spot once the weather is reliable, tends to produce noticeably more upright, vigorous growth through the rest of summer.

Sudden, direct midday sun scorches the leaves, indoors or out, so bright indirect light is the target. East-facing windows work well; north-facing is fine if it’s a big window. Outside, wait until night temperatures are reliably above 50F (10C) and start with a shaded spot rather than anywhere that gets full afternoon exposure. Acclimate gradually over a couple of weeks – a few hours of gentle morning light first, more as the plant adjusts.

5. Take Cuttings or Divide

May is a good window for propagating snake plants – cuttings root and divisions establish faster now than they would in cooler months. Division is the more reliable method and keeps any variegation intact: unpot the plant, separate the rhizomes by pulling or cutting them apart, pot each section into fresh mix. A couple of healthy leaves and some root attached is enough for each piece to get going, and they can reach full size by the end of summer.

Leaf cuttings work too, though they take longer and any variegated patterning won’t carry through to the new plant – divisions are the way to go if keeping the look matters.

For cuttings, slice a healthy leaf into three to four inch (7–10cm) sections, let the cut ends callous for a day, then push them into moist propagation mix the same way up they grew. Upside-down cuttings won’t root. Roots form in roughly four to six weeks in May’s warmth. A small propagation tray from Amazon keeps humidity around the cuttings without waterlogging them.

Swiss cheese plant, also known as monstera, is a tropical vine native to Central America. It’s also a popular houseplant because of its striking, large leaves dotted with holes, like a slice of Swiss cheese. It’s not difficult to grow, but to keep your monstera happy and healthy, it does need some specific care.

Monstera care in May is particularly important because this is the time of year when active growth really takes off. Performing these simple tasks now encourages stronger growth and bigger, more dramatic leaves, and more fenestration (holes).

1. Provide More Light

Swiss cheese plant grows in dappled sunlight under the jungle canopy in its native range. This means it grows best indoors with filtered or indirect light. Your plant will benefit from increasing the light it gets just a little as the growing season takes off to encourage stronger stems and bigger, more hole-filled leaves.

Even plants like monstera can struggle in the low light of winter. Some signs it might need more light include small leaves, leggy and weak stems, and minimal fenestration.

Ease your monstera into more light by placing it in a sunnier spot for an hour at a time for a few days and then increasing light exposure over a couple of weeks. Good locations include an east-facing window for morning light and afternoon shade and a south-facing window with something to filter the bright light, like a sheer curtain or taller houseplant. Even a low-cost sheer curtain panel from Amazon can filter out enough light to create the perfect environment for your monstera.

2. Increase Watering

Just as your plant benefits from more sunlight for the active growing season, it also needs more water to support that new growth. Higher temperatures also mean your plant will use more water. Instead of using a strict schedule, check the soil every few days. If the top inch or two (up to 5 cm) is dry, it’s time to water.

Overwatering is a typical issue with monstera, so it’s important to find the right balance. Yellowing leaves can be a sign of overwatering. If you’re not sure that’s the issue, gently pull the plant out of the pot to check the roots. If they’re soggy or rotting, you’re overwatering or the pot isn’t draining adequately. Make sure the container has drainage holes and that water can run through.

3. Prune and Tidy

Swiss cheese plants will look tidier and be in a good position for new growth if you clean up any damaged and old winter growth. Look for yellowing leaves, broken stems, weak and thin stems, and dead foliage close to the soil line. Use a clean and sharp pair of shears or scissors to snip these off. This will not only make your plant look neater, but it also improves air flow and encourages more new growth.

Another important tidying task for May is cleaning the leaves. Recirculated winter air moves a lot of dust around the house, and some of it settles on the big leaves of your monstera. Use a damp, soft cloth to wipe down all the leaves, so they can better access light for photosynthesis and energy storage.

4. Repot if Needed

If your monstera needs a bigger pot, now is a good time to make the switch. It will recover better from the transition as it moves into its growing season. Your plant might be getting overly rootbound if water drains very quickly through the soil, roots are poking out of the drainage holes, or you’re seeing stunted or minimal growth.

Choose a new pot that is only one size up from the previous container. It should be just an inch or two (2.5 cm to 5.0 cm) wider at the top. Repotting is a good opportunity to freshen up the soil, too. Add fresh potting mix or replace it completely. You can use standard potting mix, but drainage is very important for a Swiss cheese plant. You can even use an orchid mix. Rosy Soil's aroid potting mix, available from Amazon, has biochar and active microbes for healthier plants.

5. Start Feeding

Active growth season means your monstera will be using more nutrients. Now is the time to start feeding it and to establish a feeding routine for the summer. Adequate nutrients ensure strong growth and bigger, greener leaves.

Use a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer every two to four weeks. Follow the instructions on the product and then dilute the mix by half. Overfertilizing is a risk, so using the product at half strength is safest. Miracle-Gro's tropical plant food, available on Amazon, is a good option and comes in a pump bottle for easy application.

6. Provide Support

Monstera vines need physical support. In the wild, they send out aerial roots to climb trees. As growth starts to speed up in May, the new vines will start flopping if you don’t provide something for them to cling to and climb. If you already have support in place, this is a good time to extend it.

A moss pole is a popular option, but you can also use a small trellis or a pole covered in coco coir. Providing support encourages more upright growth and will lead to larger, more dramatic foliage. To make sure your plant grows where you want it to, loosely tie the growing vines to the pole or trellis using twine. You can find an extendable moss pole from Amazon to support your monstera as it grows.

May is when your Swiss cheese plant shifts into active growth mode, which means it’s the perfect time for a seasonal refresh. A little extra care now will reward you later with better growth and healthy, well-fenestrated leaves.

For most of my adult life, I’ve been squeezing more and more houseplants into tiny apartments or modest urban balconies, so I understand the pain of small space growing. That said, I also think restricted space can be a wonderful opportunity to get creative. If your coffee table is hidden under a menagerie of propagation jars, and your plant stands are groaning under the weight of your latest new best friends, then it’s time to think laterally – by which I mean vertically.

When floor space becomes a luxury commodity, the only logical direction to move in is up. Hanging baskets have long been the default for houseplant combinations in an overcrowded room, but many of us have high ceilings, and these containers can sway in drafts. Enter the wall mounted planter: a structurally sound, visually dynamic alternative that treats your greenery like fine art. Wall mounted plants allow you to curate beautiful backdrops where foliage can contrast with paint or wallpaper. It’s an approach that works well for beginners and seasoned growers alike.

For novices, a wall mount provides a secure level that keeps vines away from curious pets and vacuum cleaners. It also allows you to get up close and personal with your green companions at eye level, so it’s easier to spot dry soil or early pest issues. From structural specimens to soft, tumbling shapes, shifting your focus upwards will redefine how you display your indoor jungle. So, let’s grow vertical…

Why Use Wall Mounts for Plants

The pressures of modern urban living mean many of us are growing indoor jungles in the cozy footprints of flats, studios, and apartments. In these compact settings, every square inch of floor space must earn its keep. Cluttering walkways with bulky pots not only restricts your living area, but it can also cast plants into neglected corners below the window line. By wall mounting plants, you reclaim that valuable floor space and boost the light opportunities many plants need to thrive.

Beyond the logistics, certain houseplants look stunning on a vertical stage. Think about the natural habitats of the heart-leaf philodendron, variegated pothos, or delicate string of pearls. In the wild, these species are climbers and cascade down rock faces or tree trunks. When stuck on a flat table, vines bunch up, lose light exposure, and get leggy. A wall mount planter provides the perfect basis for trailing beauties to do their thing and do it beautifully. It highlights natural forms, encourages larger leaf growth, and turns a blank wall into an organic masterpiece.

1. Small Space Wall Mount Options

If you are trying vertical gardening for the first time, then happy days – you don't need to dive into complex installations or spend a fortune. The key to success is keeping things low-effort and budget-friendly. For smaller plant pots, you can play it safe and simple with wall mounted rings, such as the Achla Designs Wrought Iron Wall Mount Flower Pot Ring Brckets from Amazon. These give a rigid collar into which you can slide small pots, so are great for vertical gardening newbies. You can also get ceramic pockets that hang from walls as if by magic and add a cool artisanal flourish. Try ClayandBirchPottery’s Handmade Ceramic Wall Pocket Planter from Etsy.

My favorites focus on small-scale mounts that hold pots securely with minimal fuss. They are perfect for renters or those who like to rearrange plants as seasons change and light patterns shift. For these mounts, choose lightweight and resilient plants, like silver satin pothos, structural snake plants, or slow-growing peperomias. These mounts make watering so simple. You can pluck a plant from its wall ring or shelf without disturbing the wall hardware. Try grouping mounts in staggered clusters of 3 at varying heights to create a dynamic visual focal point.

Shop Small Wall Mounts

Wall mounts for a small vertical display have to balance lightness, spatial efficiency, and water management. The best individual mounts provide a secure anchor point for walls without casting a heavy shadow, letting your greenery do most of the talking. They also need to offer easy accessibility; because smaller pots can dry out quickly. From breezy textures to clean lines, this curated trio creates a pretty elevated stage.

2. Larger Vertical Wall Systems

If you’re feeling a little braver or bolder, try a larger or more elaborate wall system. These options are great if you want to graduate from single potted displays to full-scale living art installations. While they require a bit more planning, the payoff is a lush, vibrant focal point. These frameworks and living wall systems service a diverse community of plants exceptionally well, and make spectacular hosts for moisture-loving tropicals such as bird’s nest ferns, calatheas, or arrowhead vines.

Because these setups feature interconnected pockets or modular wooden structures, they mimic the layered microclimates of a forest canopy. Some use breathable canvas fabrics to air-prune roots or waterproof vinyl backings that form a shield, while others use lattices for modular s-hooks. You can lift self-watering vessels free for mess-free maintenance. It’s the ultimate living mural right in your living room. Just remember positioning is everything. Make sure your wall mounter plant hanger sits in strong, ambient indirect light, and double-check the structural integrity of studs before they have have to house heavy, freshly watered soil.

Shop Larger Vertical Systems

These vertical units are all about smart hydration, robust strength, and thoughtful design. These expansive setups aim to service plants in style and comfort, with leakproof backings, intelligent drainage, or breathing gaps to keep ambient air circulating around the roots. They take different structural approaches, but together they provide a highly supportive playground for moisture-loving tropicals and succulents, for plush living tapestries that look good from every corner of the room.

Make the Most of a Vertical Garden

Maintaining a flourishing vertical garden needs a slight shift from tabletop plant care, particularly for watering and structural maintenance. Wall-mounted plants are exposed to warmer ambient air, which can cause soil to dry out faster. Check soil moisture every few days, using a long-reach step stool or a lightweight watering can with a narrow, targeted spout. For small mounts, you can remove pots and give them a drink in your basin. For larger wall systems, you might prefer a pressure sprayer with an extension wand. If you need an extension wand, you can get the Expert Gardener 38-Inch Telescoping Watering Wand from Walmart, allowing your arms to reach the upper canopies while your feet stay firmly on the floor.

Regularly trim any yellowing or dead foliage at the crown to promote optimal airflow between tightly grouped plants, which helps ward off fungal issues. For fast-growing trailing vines, a timely prune encourages lateral branching, resulting in bushier growth. It’s worth doing some quick structural safety checks every month or so. Gently wiggle the brackets and frames, and keep an eye on structural integrity as plants grow. It’s worth investing in a spirit level or measuring tool, like the Amazon Basics 9-Inch Magnetic Torpedo Level and Ruler, to check your vertical garden stays balanced and anchored properly. Have fun raising your growing game!

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For the last few months, you may well have been glancing at your fiddle leaf fig (Ficus lyrata), hoping it managed to make it through the dry, dark indoor months. Now we’ve made it to the other side, your prized ficus is probably going to be a little dusty, weary and limp. Take heart! These gorgeous tropical giants wake up with a dramatic burst of energy in May, which makes it a lovely time to give your plant a little TLC.

Right now, your fig is begging for a spring refresh to help it develop fresh growth. That said, it is a creature of habit that loathes swift transitions. Because it is sensitive to environmental shifts, ignoring its needs at the start of the growing season is the fastest route to a sad display of dropping leaves. Now is a time for smart fiddle leaf fig care. Leaving it trapped in compacted winter soil or suffocating under a thick layer of dust risks sabotaging all that summer potential. So whatever you do, don’t let this vital window of active growth slip away.

Fiddle leaf fig care in May doesn't require hours of labor. In fact, giving your fiddle leaf fig what it craves is very straightforward and (dare I say?) a lot of fun. These simple steps can help you treat your plant both above and below soil level in clear, quick stages. So, let’s dive into the essential fiddle leaf fig care tips that will keep your leafy favorite happy, healthy, and stunningly vibrant all summer long.

Why May Matters for Fiddle Leaf Figs

After months of stagnant air and close confinement, your fiddle leaf fig is likely suffering from a bit of a winter hangover. Stuck with dry, artificial heating and miserable light levels for extended periods, many fig plants in living rooms and other interior spaces will enter spring feeling cranky. You might notice a few lower leaves yellowing, or the top growth looking limp. But in May, there is a surge in ambient room temperature and longer, high-quality daylight, which triggers an awakening, signaling to the plant that it is time to break dormancy and start building new tissue.

Because this shift happens so rapidly, fiddle leaf fig plant care in May is all about managing the transition smoothly. If you live in a warm southern USDA zone (10-11) where nighttime temperatures are holding above 55°F (13°C), you can harden off your fig to spend summer on a shaded patio. For those of us in cooler climates, figs will remain indoors. But whether you’re managing a huge fiddle leaf fig tree or a petite 'Bambino' variety, the basic needs are the same. They are all breaking out of survival mode and need a gentle hand to navigate this sudden spring growth spurt.

Before starting our steps, just run a quick health check. It’s wise to check moisture levels and inspect the undersides of the leaves for hidden winter pests. That way, you ensure you don’t stress a vulnerable root system or wave through a spider mite infestation. Take the guesswork out of soil health with a simple diagnostic tool, like the Sonkir 3-in-1 Soil Moisture and Light Meter from Amazon, to assess soil moisture levels ahead of these May plant refreshers.

Treat May as the seasonal wellness window that lets you quickly carry out some very easy (but very important) fiddle leaf fig tree care. You can buy powerful magnifying glasses and loupes, like the TekcoPlus 10x Foldable Pocket Loupe from Amazon, to inspect leaves up close to see what might be hitching a ride on the leaves. This helps you to catch problems early, so you can safely start these easy care steps.

1. The Deep Dust-Off and Spring Shower

Chances are there’s a thick, dull layer of household grime on your fiddle leaf fig’s leaves. If left, that accumulated dust will block out sunlight, choking the pores the plant uses to breathe and drastically reducing its ability to photosynthesize. This will lead to stalled spring growth, pale foliage, and spider mites that thrive in dust. This first May job is all about spring cleaning, and it’s both simple and satisfying. Just this one timely act of houseplant care will dramatically amplify energy levels, so your plant can maximize every single ray of that glorious, intensifying May sunlight.

It all comes down to careful handling. If you are managing a compact, dwarf or young fig, carry it to the bathroom for a lukewarm shower. Just wrap a plastic bag around the base of the pot to prevent soil washing away or waterlogging the roots. For massive or multi-stemmed houseplant trees, go for a hands-on sponge bath. Use lukewarm, filtered water and support the underside of each leaf with one hand while gently wiping the top with a soft microfiber cloth. Don't use harsh dish soaps or rub aggressively, as you can scar tender leaf cuticles. Do this early in the morning, so any water drops have time to evaporate, eliminating the risk of fungal leaf spots.

While a basic damp cloth is fine, some targeted pest-prevention adds a level of added squeaky clean care. If you suspect there might be winter pests lingering along leaf veins, replacing plain water with an organic neem oil wash. Use a neem oil spray like Captain Jack's Ready-to-Use Neem Oil Spray from Lowe’s to act as a highly effective cleaner, insecticide, and fungicide all at once. This ensures that those newly cleaned leaves are protected against the dry indoor air of the coming summer months, whether or not you subsequently move your fiddle leaf fig outside.

2. The Spring Awakening Feed

Once your indoor figgy’s leaves are clean, May is the time to reinstate a regular fertilizing routine to help your plant push out that heavy flush of new growth. To sustain those massive leaves, the plant requires plenty of fuel. This needs to be a nitrogen-rich formula, with a 3-1-2 NPK ratio. If you don't feed it now, any new spring leaves will emerge stunted, pale, and paper-thin. Worse, your hungry plant will begin cannibalizing its own lower foliage nutrients, causing old leaves to turn yellow and drop. Feeding now rewards you with robust foliage that can support its own weight.

This high-impact task takes only a few minutes of your time. Just make sure the soil is thoroughly damp before applying any liquid fertilizer, or else you risk scorching the delicate root hairs. Don't over-fertilize your indoor plants in a misguided attempt to force faster growth. Always feed your fig in the early morning, when its roots are actively absorbing moisture, and ensure it sits in a spot with bright, indirect sunlight so it can instantly convert those minerals into pure growing energy. Use a special 3-1-2 NPK formula like Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant Food (3-1-2 NPK Ratio) from Walmart every couple of weeks through summer to keep foliage strong and resilient.

While liquid concentrates mixed into a watering can are great for precision feeding, you can also buy slow-release organic spikes like Jobe’s Organics Houseplant Fertilizer Spikes from Amazon. These are helpful if you are worried about being forgetful as spring rushes towards summer and other plants start demanding more of your attention. These spikes keep your plant nourished for 6-8 weeks, and are great for established indoor trees. Whichever method you choose, feed and hydrate regularly through spring so your fiddle leaf fig has the structural integrity and deep-tissue health it needs to thrive all summer long.

3. The Root Check and Repot

Your fiddle leaf fig’s long-term vitality relies on a healthy root system. Over the course of a year, these tall plants can easily outgrow their containers. If your fig has roots circling tightly around the bottom of the pot or poking out of the drainage holes, or if water seems to run straight through the soil without absorbing, it is probably root-bound. Ignoring this issue will result in compressed, stunted growth and chronic leaf drop. May is the safest time to repot your plant, because the roots can heal and establish in fresh soil with astonishing speed, mitigating any risk of transplant shock and giving the plant the room it needs to burgeon in size and glossy goodness.

The key to repotting your fiddle leaf fig plant successfully comes down to support and leverage. Enlist a helper if your fig is over 4 feet (1.2m) tall, and gently lay the pot on its side on some tarp. You can also use a fold-up planting mat, like the Fiskars Repotting Mat from Amazon, to keep things super-tidy with its handy raised edges. Slide the root ball out horizontally rather than pulling violently on the main trunk. Use your fingers to gently massage and loosen tightly bound outer roots. Aim for a new container that is 2 inches (5cm) larger in diameter and which has drain holes. Repot during a mild and overcast afternoon. Return the plant to its original spot, so it doesn't have to adjust to new light levels while healing its roots.

Where a full pot upgrade is physically impossible, top-dressing serves as a brilliant, minimal-needs alternative. Simply scrape away the top 2-3 inches (5-8cm) of old, exhausted winter soil and replace it with a rich, fast-draining tropical potting mix to deliver a fresh wave of organic matter to the upper root zone. For a chunky, airy potting mix, the Perfect Plants Fiddle Leaf Fig Soil blend from Amazon stays loose and oxygenated. Alternatively, grab some Miracle-Gro Tropical Potting Mix, also available from Amazon, for optimal drainage and structural integrity. This 3-step rejuvenation will give your figgy friend the structural anchor and hydration balance required to stand proud, beautiful, and vibrant all summer long.

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Giving your fiddle leaf fig the star treatment this spring deserves some key care essentials to supplement plant health with vital organic nutrients, tonics, and leaf health. This curated trio of fiddle leaf fig treats will help you nurture your favorite green giant toward a summer of spectacular growth and vibrant, bushy leaves.

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Air plants (Tillandsia) are those cute little spiky, rootless plants that absorb moisture from the air instead of soil. They are perfect for placing in steamy bathrooms and are easy going houseplants. But what do you do with them? Houseplants are stylish in their decorative pots, but what type of air plant holder exists?

If you are like me, you love air plants and pick them up whenever you see them in a store, but then they just get added to a jumbled pile when you get home. I never really know where to put them or how to display them.

Worry no more! I have taken the time to curate a list of the best air plant holders from around the internet. It’s time to show them off properly and stop relegating them to a random pile next to your other houseplants.

There you have it. Your air plants will never have to sit in a pile again. There are so many great options for air plant holders that will elevate your room, no matter your decor style!

Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) is an enduring favorite among houseplants for many reasons. It has a unique look, with its long, arching bi-colored leaves and adorable little plantlets (also known as spiderettes). It’s also very easy to grow, even for beginners.

Although generally low-maintenance, spider plants do benefit from some care. Thoughtful spider plant care in May is important because this is when the active growing season begins. Your spider plant is about to start putting out new growth, and even pups, and good support will ensure that the growth is vigorous and healthy.

1. Clean Up Your Plant with a Light Trim

Most plants can benefit from occasional pruning, and a spider plant is no exception. Although they don’t need much maintenance, a light prune now or in spring will encourage new growth, manage size, and improve the plant's overall appearance.

Use sharp, clean shears or scissors to prune spider plant leaves that are damaged or have yellowed or developed crispy brown tips. You can also trim off or shorten long runners to keep your plant a smaller size and to give it a tidier appearance.

2. Increase Watering Frequency

One of the factors that makes growing a spider plant so easy is that it tolerates a decent amount of neglect. If you forget to water it, it will bounce back pretty readily once you do. Still, it’s best to water your plant regularly to keep it healthy.

As active growth begins this May, prepare to up the watering frequency a little. Your plant needs more water now to support new growth and plantlets. As temperatures rise, the soil in the pot will also dry out more quickly.

Water your spider plant whenever you can feel with your finger that the top inch or two of soil is dry. Water thoroughly, letting excess moisture drain out of the bottom of the pot. Ideally, water your plant with distilled water or rainwater, as chemicals in tap water can cause the tips of the leaves to brown.

3. Start a Summer Fertilizing Routine

As with water, your spider plant needs more nutrients as it enters the active growing season. To support healthy, attractive new foliage, start a routine now for regular spider plant fertilizing. Plan to keep feeding your spider plant every two to four weeks throughout the growing season.

Choose a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer, like this one from Amazon. Follow instructions on the fertilizer, but also take care not to feed too much. Spider plants need less feeding than some other houseplants, and over-fertilizing can cause leaf tip burn.

4. Repot if Needed

Your spider plant might not need repotting every year. In fact, it will do best when slightly rootbound. Some signs that you need to repot a spider plant include roots growing out of drainage holes or over the top of the soil, compacted soil, and soil that dries out very quickly.

Choose a new container that is one to two inches (2.5 to 5.0 cm) larger than the current pot. Since spider plants like to be a little rootbound, don’t go too big with the container. Get fresh soil for the new pot. A light potting mix that drains well is best.

5. Propagate Plantlets

One of the most fun aspects of growing spider plants is the appearance of little plantlets. These offspring look just like baby spider plants, and they spring up quite readily, making spider plant propagation easy. Also known as pups, babies, or spiderettes, plantlets will begin to grow in earnest this time of year, especially if you’re supporting the parent plant with good care.

Removing plantlets now will help you get new plants through propagation, but it also makes the parent healthier by redirecting energy back to the main plant. If you don’t need new plants, simply snip off the babies.

If you do want to propagate them, look for plantlets that have already developed some roots. Snip them off the main plant, keeping their roots intact. You can repot the plantlet in a small container with potting mix. You can also put the plantlet in water and let the roots grow more before potting.

6. Check for Pests

Spider plants are usually healthy and disease-free, but like any houseplant, they are susceptible to pests. Spider mites, aphids, and mealybugs are typical pests you might see on a spider plant in your home. May is a good time to get ahead of and manage any infestations before they become severe.

The presence of pests might be obvious if you can see them, but there are also subtle signs of an early issue: webbing on leaves, a sticky residue, and speckled or distorted leaves. If you catch pests early, you can usually manage them by giving your plant’s leaves a good rinse in a sink or outside. If this isn’t enough to get rid of them, use a natural product like neem oil to kill pests.

May kicks off the growing season for spider plants, making care now essential for future growth. Taking these small, simple care steps now will lead to full, healthy growth later and all season long.

Spider Plant Care Essentials

If you love houseplants, why not grow some that can do double duty? Many houseplants are tropical natives, which means they thrive outdoors once the weather is warm and steamy. Give these houseplants a summer vacation by using them to stage a front porch with excellent curb appeal and bring them back indoors for winter.

I don’t know about you, but I think houseplant care feels easier when it’s done outdoors! A quick spritz with the hose to water them and they thrive in the warm, breezy air through the summer. My plants always look fuller and healthier after their annual summer vacation to the porch. Then bring them indoors to brighten your home as the weather cools.

Let's dig in and explore which houseplants will make your porch pop this summer!

1. Pothos

When it comes to houseplant care, few are easier than pothos (Epipremnum aureum), a forgiving plant that even beginners will find hard to kill. Pothos is a tropical vine that you can train to climb a vertical surface or allow to spill from a hanging pot. It grows fast and comes in several varieties, with foliage in all shades of green, yellow, white, and variegation.

Outside on your porch, pothos is an ideal choice for a hanging basket. The vines will grow vigorously in the summer heat and humidity, and with bright, indirect light. Pothos is also easy to transition back inside. Just be sure to trim it back a little if it grows too large over the summer. We love the Modern Sprout pruning snips, available from Amazon, for houseplant pruning jobs.

2. Snake Plant

Snake plant is another example of an easy, popular houseplant that tolerates neglect, poor light conditions, and even dry, poor soil. Dracaena trifasciata is a tropical native with spiky leaves that grow up to five feet (1.5 m) tall when container-grown.

Snake plants make striking porch plants with their tall, lance-shaped leaves. They are also ideal for the porch because they grow best in indirect light. Pair them with some trailing plants or bright flowers for contrast. Like pothos, snake plant tolerates change well and will transition easily back inside for winter.

3. Spider Plant

Spider plant is a classic, popular houseplant known for its graceful, arching leaves and “babies” that make propagating so easy. Spider plant is Chlorophytum comosum, a tropical native that prefers warmth, humidity, and indirect light but that will tolerate poor conditions and even some neglect.

While very popular indoors, spider plants thrive and brighten up porches in summer. They can be placed on tables or used in hanging pots. They’ll appreciate the fresh air and summer weather and reward you with quick growth and plenty of baby plantlets that you can snip off and repot. They’ll readily transition back inside once temperatures drop again.

4. Anthurium

Many porch plants are flowering annuals that don’t transition well indoors. Anthurium is an example of a flowering houseplant that can be put outside for summer and successfully brought back in for winter. Anthurium spp. are also known as flamingo flowers for their unique, large, and bright spathes that surround the flower spikes.

Anthurium can be coaxed into blooming year-round, so you can enjoy its colorful blooms inside and out. In summer, it will thrive in a shady spot when the air is warm and humid. Place a striking anthurium on a side table or patio dining table, either alone or with smaller foliage plants. You can even make them into kokedama so you can hang them for a unique look! You can find sheets of moss on Amazon if you're looking to get into the art of kokedama.

5. Peace Lily

Another flowering houseplant you can put outside in summer is the popular peace lily. Like so many houseplants on this list, peace lily (Spathiphyllum spp.) is a tropical plant that thrives with indirect light, warmth, and moist soil, but will bounce right back if you neglect it for a while.

Peace lilies can grow very large, so they make striking porch plants. The summer weather conditions will stimulate more growth and additional flowers. Place them under a shaded porch or covered patio and pair with ferns or smaller flowering plants.

6. New Guinea Impatiens

Often grown as summer annuals outside, you can transition these impatiens indoors and ensure they keep blooming with the right care. Impatiens hawkeri blooms reliably outside in humid, warm conditions from spring all the way through fall’s first frost. Indoors, you can keep the blooms going if you’re able to give the plants adequate bright light from a window or grow light. I like the Barrina T5 grow lights from Amazon for their ease of use and longevity.

Outdoors in summer, the bright and abundant flowers of New Guinea impatiens bring cheer and color to porches and front doors. They also work well in hanging pots and mixed containers with other flowers or foliage plants.

7. Boston Fern

Finally, Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata) is a classic and well-loved porch plant. Its dense growth of feathery fronds makes the Boston fern an attractive hanging or table plant for a porch or patio. It thrives in the heat and humidity of summer and will grow rapidly.

Many people grow Boston ferns as summer annuals because they require a little extra care to be transitioned successfully indoors. Dry air inside in winter is the primary issue. Bring your Boston fern inside to a spot with bright but indirect light and use a pebble tray or mist it regularly to keep humidity levels up. Keep an eye on the humidity levels in your home with a combination hygrometer and thermometer from Amazon. I use them throughout my house to maintain proper humidity levels.

Get more mileage out of your potted plants with these versatile options that can grow indoors and out. Spruce up your summer porch with these unique, striking, and gorgeous houseplants.

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