Forcing hyacinths for Christmas is a fun way to introduce unique flowers into your holiday celebrations. Because they are spring flowers, hyacinths bring a cheerfulness to the cold, short days of winter.

Planting hyacinths to get them to bloom in winter isn’t difficult, but it takes some specialized knowledge. With some careful planning undertaken in autumn, you can have gorgeous, fragrant blooms for the holidays.

Here, we explain why you should consider doing it, steps for forcing bulbs successfully by Christmas, and common mistakes to avoid.

Why Grow Hyacinths for Christmas?

Forcing hyacinths indoors builds on a long tradition of coaxing spring bulbs to flower out of season. Spring flowers blooming in winter bring cheer to cold winter days indoors. Hyacinths also have a sweet smell that brings a sense of warmer days to the chilliest time of year.

Forcing bulbs in winter gives you a unique type of décor for the holidays. Even if you get the timing wrong, you’ll be able to enjoy spring flowers in December or for the New Year. Forcing hyacinths is an easy and fun activity for kids, as well, and these spring blooms make great gifts.

Choosing and Preparing Hyacinth Bulbs

Timing is essential for Christmas hyacinth bulbs. Spring bulbs only bloom after they have experienced a certain amount of time in cold temperatures. This is why we plant bulbs in the fall for a gorgeous spring garden next year. You can force a bulb to flower by mimicking this chill period. They then need a period of about three weeks of warmer temperatures and light.

To prepare hyacinth bulbs with a chill period, simply put them in a brown paper bag in your refrigerator crisper. Alternatively, you can buy pre-chilled bulbs. If you’ll be preparing your own, choose large, firm bulbs and start chilling them 13 to 15 weeks before Christmas.

This timing accounts for the chill period and warm period for most hyacinths. Different varieties have different timing needs. If you’re running out of time, try ‘Anna Marie,’ a variety that only needs eight chill weeks. Of course, you can also use pre-chilled bulbs if you have just a few weeks before Christmas to force them to bloom.

How to Force Bulbs for Christmas Blooms

Whether you chilled the bulbs yourself or bought pre-chilled bulbs, the next step is setting them up to grow roots and to bloom. There are two setups to choose from: soil and water.

To force in soil, choose a sturdy pot or wide dish with drainage holes and fill it partially with high quality potting mix. Don’t use ordinary garden soil, which is too heavy and will retain too much water. You can make your own DIY potting mix or purchase some like Miracle-Gro indoor potting mix from Amazon.

Place the bulbs in the container nose (pointy side) up. The bulbs’ necks should be level with the edge of the container. Add a little more soil or some pebbles around the bulbs. The necks and noses of the bulbs should remain exposed.

To force bulbs in water, choose a specially designed bulb forcing vase or use any glass or vase of the appropriate shape and size. This gorgeous handmade blown glass bulb forcing vase is available from East Fork and makes a great gift for friends (or yourself!). Looking to have forced hyacinth bulbs all over your house? This multi-pack of bulb vases from Amazon is a great option. Support forced plants with bamboo skewers if they get too leggy.

No matter the container you choose, you should be able to set the bulb on the top of the vase so that the nose and neck stay out of the water. Fill the vase or glass with water and place the bulb point up so that only the base and roots of the bulb are in the water.

Caring for Indoor Hyacinths

Ease your bulbs gently into warmth and sunshine. Start them in a cool location with no direct light and move them closer to light and warmth over the course of a couple of weeks. For bulbs in soil, water regularly so that they stay moist but not soggy. For bulbs in water, change out the water when it gets cloudy or add water as needed to keep the roots wet.

Within a few weeks, you should have flowers. Keep watering as they bloom. Once the flowers fade, the foliage will start to yellow and die. You can either throw out the bulbs or plant them in the garden after winter forcing. They might not bloom again until the following year.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Forcing bulbs is generally easy, but there are some common mistakes that can prevent you from getting the best outcome.

• Don’t skimp on the chill period. You might get leaves but no flowers. If this happens, put the bulbs back in a cool, dark place for a few days and try again.
• Don’t let the bulbs get too wet or they’ll rot. For water-forced bulbs, the water level should be just at the base of the bulb. For soil-forced bulbs, ensure the container will drain excess water.
• If you are chilling bulbs in the refrigerator, keep away from fruit. Fruit gives off ethylene gas, which inhibits flower development.
• Avoid skin irritation from handling hyacinth bulbs by wearing gloves. Not everyone is sensitive, but touching hyacinths can cause a mild skin rash.
• It’s easy to wait too long if you’re hoping to get flowers for Christmas. If this happens, buy pre-chilled bulbs.

Hyacinths make a unique and cheerful addition to holiday decorations. Start planning now for successfully forcing bulbs by Christmas.

Summer hyacinth (Ornithogalum candicans) is a delicately pretty flowering plant which adds dynamic interest to flower beds and mixed borders. Though this unique bulb is relatively easy to grow, becoming familiar with its needs and growth habit will ensure that plants thrive for years to come.

The right planting and care of hyacinths is just as beneficial for this summer-flowering bulb as it is for spring-flowering varieties. As late summer bloomers, these bulbs can continue to flower for a couple months, depending on the region. Read on to find out how to add easy sparkle to late summer displays.

Quick Summer Hyacinth Facts:

• Botanical name – Ornithogalum candicans, Galtonia candicans
• Height – 24-48 inches (60-122cm)
• Spread – 24-36 inches (60-91cm)
• Sun exposure – Full sun
• Soil requirements – Well draining
• Hardiness zones – USDA zones 6-10
• When to plant – Late winter, early spring

Care for Ornithogalum candicans

Best Light

Ornithogalum are full-sun plants and rely heavily on direct sunlight to produce their tall blooms. Summer hyacinths easily withstand the brightest of garden beds. As with other full-sun perennials, you should make certain the plants receive at least six hours of direct light each day. While they can tolerate partial shade, too much may negatively impact its ability to produce flowers. 

Watering Plants

Keep summer hyacinths consistently moist at planting and throughout the spring to help them establish a robust root system. Though they can withstand brief periods of drought, irrigating them routinely will aid in their flower stalk development. Continue weekly watering until the plant stops producing flowers. You can then begin to water less frequently. 

Temperature & Humidity

Summer hyacinth plants are able to withstand both heat and humidity. This makes them ideal for growing if you experience especially hot conditions throughout summer. However, prolonged periods of high heat and humidity may cause the plant to become stressed. If this might be an issue, use shade cover or soaker hoses to help ensure that plants flourish. 

Soil & Compost

Ornithogalum candicans thrive under a wide range of conditions, but they prefer neutral soils (with a pH of 6.5-7) and excellent drainage. They can tolerate clay, but they grow best in rich loam or sandy soils. Prepare flower beds with a high-quality garden compost before planting to aid overall health and the production of flowers through the first growing season. 

Fertilizing Plants

Though it’s not essential, it can help to fertilize summer hyacinth plants annually. You should ideally do this in early spring as new growth begins. However, the plants can be fed any time before they have started to produce buds. A well-balanced, slow-release feed is often the best choice. Cease any fertilizing once blooms have started to develop. 

How to Plant Summer Hyacinth Bulbs

Summer hyacinths (also known as Galtonia candicans) are most frequently grown from bulbs. Within their hardiness zone, plant these as soon as the soil can be worked in late winter or early spring. Dig to a depth that is approximately twice the height of each bulb. Be certain that the bulb’s tip is facing up and begin to gently backfill the soil into the hole. Water new plantings well, then leave them until the bulbs begin to grow.

Pruning Ornithogalum Candicans

In terms of pruning, summer hyacinth flowers don’t require special care. However, deadheading flowers can prevent the production of seed and keep flower beds looking tidy. If you remove the stalks shortly after flowers fade and leaves turn yellow, this can also keep hyacinths blooming for longer. To remove spent summer hyacinth blooms, follow each stalk back to the ground, making certain to clip carefully. 

Propagating Summer Hyacinth

You can propagate established plantings of Ornithogalum candicans if you divide plants and replant them. In fact, bulb division is often necessary to help encourage the continued production of flowers. This can occur any time while the plants are dormant. Late winter is an ideal time, before the plants’ growth resumes for the season. 

Ornithogalum Candicans Problems, Pests & Diseases

Summer hyacinths seldom need special attention and are relatively free from disease. One potential issue is rot, which may lead to the loss of plants. For this reason, you should take care to avoid overwatering. Infestations of aphids are common, but you can treat these with homemade aphid controls and natural predators. Also keep an eye out for snail and slug eggs in early spring, as molluscs tend to gravitate towards tender new growth. 

Frequently Asked Questions

Where is the Best Place to Grow Ornithogalum Candicans?

Summer hyacinths are best used in perennial landscapes and mixed borders. Make sure that your chosen spot has access to plenty of sunshine and that the planting site has been adequately prepared. Their unique flower stalks add both height and texture to the growing space.

Do Summer Hyacinths Make Good Cut Flowers?

In recent years, Ornithogalum candicans has gained popularity among cut flower farmers and is often praised for its longevity and vase life. Summer hyacinth flowers add height and brightness to a range of color schemes and thematic groupings.

Hyacinth is a popular fall planted bulb for cheerful, fragrant spring blooms. These flowers are also among the most commonly used bulbs for indoor forcing, driving away winter glooms with fresh growing flowers. Unfortunately, hyacinth irritation can be an issue.

Learn more about this skin problem and how you can manage it while still enjoying hyacinths.

What is Hyacinth Bulb Itch?

If you have ever handled hyacinth bulbs, you may have experienced some degree of itchiness. Some people may feel nothing, others have a mild reaction, and some experience an intense itchy reaction to hyacinth bulbs.

An itchy reaction to bulbs is probably not a true hyacinth skin allergy. While it may be possible to be allergic to substances in the bulbs, most people who get itchy from handling them are experiencing irritation from a mineral known as calcium oxalate.

The crystals of calcium oxalate, which make up as much as six percent of the bulb, can become airborne, causing irritation on any exposed skin. Your hands may get especially itchy when handling hyacinth bulbs, but other areas of skin can also be affected.

How to Prevent and Treat Itchy Hyacinth Reactions

The best way to manage hyacinth bulb itch is to prevent it. Always wear gloves when handling the bulbs. Keep other areas of skin covered as much as possible to avoid contamination by airborne minerals.

Also, avoid working with hyacinth bulbs indoors and only handle them outdoors when the air is calm. Wind will kick up more of the irritating crystals.

If you do get affected by hyacinth irritation, the only way to treat it is to wash the area of skin with soap and water. The itch won’t last forever, but washing will bring quicker relief. An antihistamine may also help relieve the itching sooner.

It’s also important to note that hyacinth bulbs are toxic. It’s best to keep animals and children away when working with them.

Kenya hyacinth, or Sansevieria parva, is a pretty, little succulent that makes a great houseplant. It produces flowers irregularly and can be grown outdoors in hot, dry regions. Care of Kenya hyacinth is not difficult if you provide the right soil and don’t overwater. Let’s learn more about growing this interesting snake plant.

What is a Kenya Hyacinth Snake Plant?

This handful of a name refers to Sansevieria parva, most commonly known as Kenya hyacinth snake plant. This is a succulent that is hardy in the U.S. in zones 10 and 11, but for everyone else, it makes a great houseplant.

Native to East Africa, flowering Sansevieria plants have narrow, spike-shaped leaves that grow between eight and sixteen inches (20.5 to 41 cm.) long. Each plant grows a cluster of six to twelve leaves.

The flowers of the Kenya hyacinth are small and white or pale pink. These plants don’t flower consistently, though. When they do, however, you’ll enjoy the lovely fragrance, but mostly expect to enjoy the foliage.

Growing Flowering Sansevieria

If you live in a hot, dry climate, you can use Kenya hyacinth outdoors for xeriscaping. It tolerates drought well and needs just dappled or partial sunlight. Indoors, this is a nice houseplant that will grow well in dry, well-drained soil.

Find a spot out of direct sunlight. If the edges of the leaves turn yellow, the plant is likely getting too much sun. Make sure the soil drains very well. Let it dry out between watering, and then soak the soil completely. A general fertilizer every few weeks will help your plant thrive.

The best way to propagate Sansevieria is by cuttings. Take cuttings in summer and allow four to six weeks for them to root. If your plant does flower, it will stop producing leaves. But new plantlets will sprout up from rhizomes or stolons, so look for them.

Bright and cheery, grape hyacinths are bulb plants producing purple colored flowers in early spring gardens. They can also be forced indoors. The feather hyacinth, aka tassel hyacinth plant (Muscari comosum ‘Plumosum’ syn. Leopoldia comosa), can add another cool textural element since the blossoms are feathery plumes rather than classic petals.

If you have some feathered grape hyacinth bulbs and are ready to go, you’ll want to know how to grow a Muscari feather hyacinth. Read on for information about these plants, including tips on their care.

About Feather Hyacinth Plants

Muscari plants are popular, easy-grow bulbs that produce pink, white, or deep lavender flowers. If you want something above and beyond what everyone else is planting, buy feather grape hyacinth bulbs instead.

Feather hyacinth plants are closely related to regular grape hyacinths, but their flowers do not look like any other Muscari. The flowering racemes look like violet plumes rather than flowers. Consisting of fine, feathery threads, the blooms seem to float above their grassy foliage, each between 8 and 12 inches (20-31 cm.) tall.

On the other hand, feathered grape hyacinth bulbs closely resemble other Muscari bulbs. They look like small white onions. Each is about 2 inches (2.5 cm.) in diameter, about the width of a half-dollar coin.

You’ll need approximately nine bulbs for every square foot (929 sq. cm.) of flower bed. If left to their own devices, they will often naturalize in the area and keep blooming year after year in spring.

Care of Feather Hyacinths

If you are wondering how to grow a Muscari feather hyacinth, it isn’t any harder than other bulb plants. You’ll need feathered grape hyacinth bulbs and cultivated, well-draining soil. These bulbs are hardy down to USDA plant hardiness zone 4.

Plant the bulbs about 5 inches (13 cm.) deep and 3 to 4 inches (8-10 cm.) apart. They should be planted pointy tip up in an area that gets some sun and some shade. They bloom in April or May.

To take care of feather hyacinths, provide water a few times a week and fertilize with bulb food once a year. In cooler climates, mulch the soil in the bed where the feather hyacinth plants are situated.

Growing Amethyst hyacinths (Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Amethyst’) couldn’t be much easier and, once planted, each bulb produces one spiky, sweet-smelling, pinkish violet bloom every spring, along with seven or eight big, shiny leaves.

These hyacinth plants are gorgeous planted en masse or contrasting with daffodils, tulips, and other spring bulbs. These easy plants even thrive in large containers. Interested in growing a few of these springtime jewels? Read on to learn more.

Planting Amethyst Hyacinth Bulbs

Plant Amethyst hyacinth bulbs in fall about six to eight weeks before the first expected frost in your area. Generally, this is September to October in northern climates, or October to November in the southern states.

Hyacinth bulbs thrive in partial shade to full sunlight and Amethyst hyacinth plants tolerate nearly any type of well-drained soil, although moderately rich soil is ideal. It’s a good idea to loosen the soil and dig in a generous amount of compost before growing Amethyst hyacinth bulbs.

Plant Amethyst hyacinth bulbs about 4 inches (10 cm.) deep in most climates, although 6 to 8 (15-20 cm.) inches is better in warm southern climates. Allow at least 3 inches (8 cm.) between each bulb.

Care of Amethyst Hyacinths

Water well after planting bulbs, then allow Amethyst hyacinths to dry out slightly between watering. Be careful not to overwater, as these hyacinth plants don’t tolerate soggy soil and may rot or mold.

Bulbs can be left in the ground for the winter in most climates, but Amethyst hyacinths require a chilling period. If you live where winters exceed 60 degrees F. (15 C.), dig the hyacinth bulbs and store them in the refrigerator or other cool, dry location during the winter, then replant them in spring.

Cover Amethyst hyacinth bulbs with a protective layer of mulch if you live north of USDA planting zone 5.

All that’s left is enjoying the blooms once they return each spring.

"Arbor beans, white, scarlet, crimson, purple, at the trees level on both sides of the terraces and on the long walk of the garden," Thomas Jefferson wrote this of his home gardens at Monticello in 1812, and it is believed that some of the beans he is referring to are hyacinth beans, reportedly a favorite of his. Hyacinth bean history dates much farther back than the days of Thomas Jefferson, though. What is a hyacinth bean? Let's learn more.

Hyacinth Bean Plant Information

Hyacinth bean (Lablab purpureus), also known as Egyptian bean, Indian bean, lablab bean, mouse-ear vine and Pharoah bean, is a tropical vine that can grow up to 30 feet. Native to the tropical regions of Africa, it is a fast growing vine with sweet pea-like purple flowers. Newer hybrids may also come in white, pink, blue and reddish flowers.

Hyacinth bean can be grown as a tender perennial in zones 9-11, but is usually grown as an annual elsewhere. Its midsummer blooms attract bees, butterflies and hummingbirds. The flowers are then followed by deep red-burgundy, flat, sickle-shaped bean pods. Deer and birds are attracted to these pods.

High in protein and vitamin B complex, hyacinth beans have been eaten for centuries all around the world. Because of toxins in the mature beans, hyacinth bean must be cooked thoroughly before eating. Generally, they are boiled and eaten as a vegetable. In India, hyacinth beans are often found in curry dishes. The leaves and flowers are also edible and added to salads or soups. In addition to being an edible legume, hyacinth beans have been used throughout history to treat upset stomachs, diarrhea, menstrual cramps, food poisoning, rheumatoid arthritis, sunstroke and dehydration.

The word "lablab" is an Egyptian word for a rattle, describing how the seeds rattle in the dry pods. Hyacinth bean is also sometimes found as Jefferson Vine because it was reportedly one of his favorite beans to grow at Monticello. In Japan, hyacinth bean is often referred to as Ingen bean because the monk Ingen introduced it to Japan from China. In India, hyacinth bean may commonly be referred to as "val" in many recipes.

Growing Hyacinth Beans

Like most legumes, hyacinth bean can be grown as a nitrogen fixing cover crop. Seeds are sown in spring in full sun, and the beans can take anywhere from 90-150 days to mature. In the U.S., hyacinth bean is mainly grown as an ornamental. Its scarlet colored beans and purple-tinged green foliage add interesting texture to floral arrangements and also have a long vase life.

What is desert hyacinth? Also known as fox radish, desert hyacinth (Cistanche tubulosa) is a fascinating desert plant that produces tall, pyramid-shaped spikes of dazzling yellow blooms during the spring months. What makes desert hyacinth plants so interesting? Desert hyacinth plants manage to survive in extremely punishing conditions by parasitizing other desert plants. Read on for more desert hyacinth information.

Desert Hyacinth Growing Info

Desert hyacinth thrives in climates that receive as little as 8 inches (20 cm.) of water per year, usually during the winter months. Soil is usually sandy and salty in nature. Since desert hyacinth is unable to synthesize chlorophyll, the plant displays no green parts, and the flower extends from a single, whitish stalk. The plant survives by sucking water and nutrients from saltbush and other desert plants via a thin root extending from an underground tuber. The root can stretch to other plants several feet (or meters) away. Desert hyacinth is found in many of the world’s deserts, including the Negev Desert in Israel, the Taklamakan Desert in northwest China, the Arabian Gulf Coast, and the arid regions of Pakistan, Rajasthan, and Punjab. Traditionally, the plant has been used to treat a range of conditions, including contusions, low fertility, decreased sex drive, constipation, high blood pressure, memory problems, and fatigue. It is often dried to a powder and mixed with camel’s milk. Desert hyacinth is a rare and endangered species, but unless you can provide the ideal growing conditions, cultivation of desert hyacinth in a home garden is extremely difficult.

Knowing the pruning needs of your plant is a big part of good cultivation. Does hyacinth bean need pruning? It certainly needs training and support with its wild, rapid growth of up to 8 feet (2 m.) in a season. Pruning may sacrifice flowers, but if the plant gets out of control, you know when to prune hyacinth bean. Pruning is strictly for aesthetics and to keep the plant in a habit you require. Pinching when young is also useful to control the plant and direct growth as you want it to grow.

Does Hyacinth Bean Need Pruning?

Hyacinth bean, also known as Lablab, is a vigorous climbing annual. It is a warm season plant native to Africa, but it has become an established food crop in many other countries. The ornamental aspect of the plant has taken off in warmer parts of the Americas. Deeply purple beans and amethyst and violet blossoms make the plant an attractive addition to any landscape.

Hyacinth bean pruning isn't strictly mandatory, but it does help keep the growth of this speedy sprouter in check, so it’s always a good idea to learn how to prune a hyacinth bean and establish a healthier, more sturdy set of vines.

Hyacinth bean is just the plant to cover an old fence, rotting outbuilding, or scramble over downed logs. Its growth is rapid, and the numerous vines quickly cover anything in the plant's path. Vertical training is useful to keep the plant in some semblance of order.

Brand new baby vines should be pinched when they get two or more sets of true leaves. This won't hurt them but will force the ends to branch off and produce more vines. That keeps the plant looking bushy, not spindly with just a few vines. More vines mean more bright flowers and purple pods.

The vines are generally annual to semi-perennial and need to be started by seed every year except in cases where the plant drops seed and is allowed to self-sow.

Tips on Pruning Hyacinth Bean Plants

When to prune hyacinth bean can be as important as how to prune hyacinth bean. That is because if you time the pruning just right you may be able to get a fall bloom. This only works in areas with mild fall weather that rarely freezes and in areas with long growing seasons.

When flowers begin to slow, it is time for hyacinth bean pruning to rejuvenate the vines and hopefully get another burst of growth and flowers. Cut plants back to within 6 inches (15 cm.) of the ground. New sprouts should form and grow quickly. Expect another flush of flowers but probably not beans in fall. You will need to retrain the vines as they sprout anew to give them plenty of air circulation and keep blooms in the best sun exposure.

When pruning any vine or plant, always use clean, sharp tools to prevent injury and the spread of disease. Hyacinth bean pruning occurs just above a bud node. This will ensure that the bud can still sprout and send out new growth in the case of late summer pruning for additional blooming.

Vines generally die back to the ground in areas that get cold season temperatures below 32 degrees F. (0 C.). In areas that don't experience such low temperatures, cut the plants back to 6 inches (15 cm.) from the ground and cover them over with mulch.

Pull away the mulch in spring and, in most cases, the vines will have overwintered and will recommence growth.

Once you’ve smelled the sweet, heavenly scent of hyacinth, you're likely to fall in love with this spring-blooming bulb and want them throughout the garden. Like most bulbs, the common way to propagate hyacinth is by dividing and planting young bulblets that develop on the mother bulb. 

However, as hyacinth flowers fade and small green seed pods begin to form in their place, you may wonder, can you propagate hyacinth seeds? Continue reading to learn about saving hyacinth seed and hyacinth seed propagation.

Can You Propagate Hyacinth Seeds?

While not the quickest and easiest method of hyacinth propagation, with some patience, you can grow hyacinths from seed. To do so, first you’ll need to allow the hyacinth seeds to mature on the plant. Rather than cutting the faded blooms back on all your hyacinth, leave a few to develop seed pods. 

At first, these seed heads will be bright green and fleshy but, as they mature, they turn a tan color and split open to disperse little black seeds. The easiest method of saving hyacinth seeds is to wrap nylon pantyhose around the hyacinth flowers that have gone to seed to catch the seeds once the pods disperse them. It’s important to know that hyacinths grown from seed may not develop into the same variety of hyacinth that the seed was collected from. 

Many times, with sexual propagation (seed propagation) of plants, the resulting plants will revert to qualities of other parent plants. For this reason, the best way to propagate plants that are exactly the same variety as the plant you want is by asexual propagation, like divisions and cuttings. For hyacinths, the best way to create more of a specific variety of hyacinth is to plant the small bulbs that form on the parent bulb.

Growing Hyacinth from Seed

When hyacinth seed pods have split open, you can carefully remove the nylon pantyhose and collect the seeds and spread them out to dry. Once dried, if you are going to save the seeds for later use, store them in an envelope or paper bag in a cool, dry place. Fresh seed is most viable. Next, soak the seed in lukewarm water for 24 to 48 hours. 

There are two methods of getting hyacinth seed to sprout. The first is to lay out a thin strip of hyacinth seed on a moistened paper towel, cover with another moistened paper towel, and gently place this in a plastic bag. Place the plastic bag in your refrigerator in a place where it will not be disturbed or squashed, and simply wait until the seeds sprout in the fridge. Then gently plant the sprouts 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) apart in a seed tray filled with a mix of peat moss and perlite and place this tray in a cold frame or greenhouse. 

The other method of growing hyacinth from seed is to just plant the seed directly in a seed tray filled with a mixture of peat and perlite and place the tray in a cold frame or greenhouse. Either method will take patience. For the first year, the hyacinth will not sprout much more than a few leaves. During this first year, the seed’s energy will be used to develop a bulb, not foliage or flowers. 

When growing hyacinth from seed, it can actually take up to six years before some varieties of hyacinth will even develop a flower. Bulb growth is the priority in the first couple years of seed grown hyacinths, but you can help it along with a monthly dose of rooting or bulb boosting fertilizer. Patience is the key to proper hyacinth seed propagation.

If you have a wall or fence you want to cover, you can’t go wrong with beans. Even if you’re not trying to mask something ugly, beans are great to have in the garden. They’re fast-growing and vigorous, and they often produce interesting flowers and tasty pods. Hyacinth bean vines go above and beyond in this regard. With light to dark purple flowers and striking fuchsia pods, they’ll brighten up absolutely any garden. What if you don’t have a garden though? Is it possible to grow these beauties in a pot and up a fence or railing? Keep reading to learn more about how to plant hyacinth beans in containers.

Container Grown Hyacinth Bean

As with all potted vines, container-grown hyacinth bean vines need something to climb on. In their native tropics, where they can grow for several years, they often reach over 30 feet (9 m.) in length. Hyacinth bean vines aren’t at all frost tolerant though, so, in most places, they’re grown as annuals. Even in a single growing season, however, they can get as long as 15 feet (5 m.). This means they need something tall and strong to climb. Growing hyacinth beans in pots means that you can place them where you want. Place your container near the bottom of a railing or fence and let it climb away. Alternatively, plant your beans in a hanging pot and let the vines trail down to the ground in a spectacular cascade.

Growing Hyacinth Beans in Pots

Hyacinth bean vines are very forgiving when it comes to growing requirements. They will do well in soil that is poor and both slightly alkaline and acidic. Any standard potting medium should be more than enough. They do require well-drained soil, so make sure your container has plenty of drainage holes. They perform best in full sun, but they can take some shade. You can sow the beans outdoors after the last chance of frost or start them inside several weeks earlier. The beans themselves are edible, but toxic if eaten raw. Always cook your hyacinth beans thoroughly before eating them.

You see them appear in April like a fragrant blue mist over the meadow– grape hyacinth (Muscari spp.), offering so much in a small packet. The true-blue beauty of their vivid blossoms stands out in the garden and delights the bees. These flowers are not bothered by frost, and they are undemanding and low maintenance in USDA Hardiness zones 4 to 8. Best of all, grape hyacinths are easy to dig up after flowering. Can you replant grape hyacinths? Yes, you can. Read on for all the info you need about how to store hyacinth bulbs after flowering.

Digging Grape Hyacinths

Why should you buy more grape hyacinth bulbs when–by digging up grape hyacinths–you can get lots of new starts from the bulbs you’ve planted? Wait until the blossoms wilt, leaving only the leaves and stems. Then you can start digging up grape hyacinths and storing grape hyacinth bulbs. It’s a simple, three-step process. Lift up the clump with a spade inserted far enough away from the bulbs that you don’t accidentally damage them. Take the time to loosen the soil on all sides of the clump before you lift it. Then it’s less likely to fall apart. As you are digging grape hyacinths up out of the ground, brush off the soil from the bulbs. Once the clump is out, you can see the bulbs and the new offsets. Divide up the cluster into smaller pieces, then break off the biggest and most attractive bulbs to replant.

How to Store Hyacinth Bulbs after Flowering

Once you have the bulbs separated and the soil brushed off, chill them in the refrigerator, storing grape hyacinth bulbs there for up to six weeks. If you live in USDA hardiness zones 8 and higher, your bulbs need chilling for good stem elongation. When you are storing grape hyacinth bulbs, use a breathable paper or cloth bag.

Can You Replant Grape Hyacinths?

You can replant grape hyacinths in September in cooler climates or wait until October when you live in warm-winter zones. All you need to do is find likely places in your garden with sunshine and sandy, well-draining soil, and plant each bulb, pointy end up, in a hole 4 to 5 inches (10-13 cm.) deep.

Grape hyacinths are a beautiful addition to any garden. Though not actually a hyacinth (they’re a type of lily), they bloom in delicate, hyacinth-blue clusters of blossoms that resemble bunches of grapes. They give off a delicious fragrance and add an unmistakable touch of spring to your garden or kitchen counter. If you want to start growing grape hyacinth, or want to expand your collection, propagating grape hyacinths is very easy. Keep reading to learn about propagation from grape hyacinth bulbs and grape hyacinth seeds.

Muscari Propagation

Propagating grape hyacinths is so easy, it may not take any effort at all. You can propagate Muscari grape hyacinth from either seeds or bulbs.

Grape Hyacinth Seeds

When your grape hyacinth is done blooming, it will drop its seeds. By the spring, with any luck, these grape hyacinth seeds will have become their own plants. If not, you can propagate Muscari grape hyacinth by saving the seeds. Remove the dried seedpods from the plant, harvest the small seeds inside, and lay the seeds on a damp paper towel in a not quite sealed plastic bag. Place it in the refrigerator for a few months to allow them to sprout. You can then plant the seedlings in containers until large enough for the garden. Likewise, you can sow the seeds directly in the garden. Be aware, though - grape hyacinths reproduce very easily and quickly, meaning they could spread all over your garden (and yard) if you don’t pay attention to them. Try planting them near a brick or concrete walkway to create a border they’re less likely to cross naturally.

Grape Hyacinth Bulbs

If planting the seeds is not for you or if you simply want to transplant some grape hyacinths to another part of the garden, you can also propagate your grape hyacinth bulbs. Dig up a cluster of plants and carefully separate the bulbs underneath. They should actually come apart rather easily and there will likely be lots of offset bulbs to pick through. Choose the healthiest. Plant them where you wish, and they should start spreading from their new spots, giving even more of the pretty little plants next season.

Grape hyacinth (Muscari armeniacum) is often the first bulb-type flower to show its blossoms in your garden in spring. The flowers look like clusters of little pearls, blue and white. They usually carry a mild fragrance. When the grape hyacinth blooming season comes to an end, you need to care for the bulbs to protect and preserve them so that they can bloom again the following year. Read on for information about Muscari care after blooming.

Post Bloom Grape Hyacinth Care

You really don’t want seeds to set on those grape hyacinth after flowering. The plant doesn’t need seeds and setting seeds depletes its energy supply. So that means grape hyacinth after flowering needs a trim. As soon as the flowers fade, trim them back with pruners or garden scissors. Remove the small flowers from the stem by running your fingers from just beneath the flower cluster to the tip of the blossom. However, leave the flower stem and do not cut it. It will provide nourishment for the bulb as long as it is green. For the same reasons, leave the foliage in place. This allows the leaves to continue to collect energy from the sun to feed the bulb for next year’s blooms. After grape hyacinth blooming season is at an end, the foliage eventually turns yellow and dies back. This happens about a month and a half after first blooming. At this point, the best post bloom grape hyacinth care requires that you clip back the stems to the ground.

What to Do with Muscari Bulbs after Flowering

You may wonder what to do with Muscari bulbs after flowering is over and the plant stems are cut back. Generally, all you have to do is apply a little manure over them in autumn, then a layer of mulch to keep the weeds down. Water them when the weather is dry. In some cases, Muscari care after blooming may include digging up the bulbs. If the plants show signs of overcrowding that limits their blooming, you can dig them up. Do this very carefully to avoid damaging any of the bulbs. Once you have the bulbs out of the ground, separate them and plant some of them in other parts of the garden.

Grape hyacinths are not, contrary to popular belief, related to hyacinths. They’re actually a type of lily. Like hyacinths, though, they have a shockingly beautiful blue color (except when they’re white) and a heavenly scent. They also grow very well in pots, and you may want to keep them inside for the joyful hint of spring they bring. Keep reading to learn about grape hyacinth container planting.

How to Plant Muscari Bulbs in Pots

Grape hyacinth, also called Muscari, grows bunches of tiny, delicate, blue flowers that give off a faint, grape-like smell. The plants are small, and pair well in containers with other small bloomers like pansies or even grass. Plant the bulbs in the autumn 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm) deep and 3 inches (7.5 cm) apart. The dimensions of the container don’t really matter as long as you can follow those spacing requirements. Make sure your potting material and container are very well-draining. Container-grown Muscari hates to be waterlogged, and particularly in their early stages can rot if kept too wet. Give your grape hyacinth in a pot time to put down roots and grow its foliage - it won’t actually flower until the spring.

Container Grown Muscari Care

Early in the spring is when grape hyacinth in containers really shine. Put them in partial to full sun and they’ll produce beautiful, minuscule blossoms that can be cut sparingly for striking, tiny arrangements. The flowers should last through the spring. When summer approaches and the blossoming peters off, don’t stop watering the plant! It’s important to let it live out its natural lifespan to collect energy from the sun for next year’s growth. About an inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week should keep the foliage healthy until it dies back naturally. At this point, you can cut it back and wait for your grape hyacinth in a pot to grow afresh in the fall.

Grape hyacinth seeds are a cheap way to fill a yard with those little bell flowers that pop up in spring with purple, blue or even white spikes. Bulbs bloom quickly, but they can hit the wallet hard. Seeds can take a little more time, but the upside is that they save you money and deliver a custom muscari carpet that feels like a quiet brag. These beauties are perfect for gardeners who dig the slow magic of growing from scratch and saving a little moolah on the side.

These scrappy yet charismatic plants thrive in USDA zones 4-8, where the cold winters give them the boost they need to kickstart into life and flourish. Figuring out their preferences is all you need to learn for perfect grape hyacinth care. It’s not something you can rush, admittedly, but the results are worth savoring in the long haul from seed to bloom. Find out how to plant muscari seeds and create thrifty spring displays with real character.

Why Grow Grape Hyacinth From Seed?

Muscari seeds are a gardener’s steal. Spring bulb gardens can cost a fortune, but the seeds – nabbed from spent blooms – are basically free. Grape hyacinths are lovely for blanketing borders, patching bare spots, clustering in containers, or swapping with friends who love spring color bursts. Seeds taken from the grape hyacinth seed pod let you run the show. You just have to pick the best to dodge disease and any issues that fall-planted bulbs sometimes bring in.

A clever trick is to mix your grape hyacinths with crocuses or early tulips for a spring display that lasts for weeks, blending naturally and vibrantly like old pals. So what’s the catch, you may be wondering? Well, growing grape hyacinth from seed is not a fast process. Muscari flowers take 2-3 years to burst through, so you need a fair bit of patience. In the interim, the delicate strappy foliage can still provide coverage for exposed soil areas and support moisture retention and weed suppression. In time, you will have a carpet of gorgeous tiny purple-blue or white floral clusters.

When to Plant Muscari Seeds

There are two ways to plant grape hyacinth seeds. You can start them indoors, or plant them outside in a cold frame. If you are starting plants outside and using nature to provide the required chilling period, fall is when to plant muscari seeds. Timing is crucial when growing grape hyacinth from seed. September to November is the best bet, when the soil is cool and ready for a winter rest. Aim for soil around 50-60°F (10-16°C), where these bulbs settle in cozy. Check frost forecasts in September. Sprinkle seeds a few weeks before the first cold snap to let them nestle in. Spring is fine if you’re stuck, but it delays blooms for a year, so fall is better

If you are planting indoors, you just need to stick the seeds in the refrigerator for approximately 3 months to mimic what they would get outdoors. Tuck seeds in a damp paper towel before you stash them in the fridge. This fake winter nap wakes up stubborn seeds for better sprouting. It’s important to give them this chilling period before you can sow them. After that three months, you can start them.

Planting Muscari Seeds Indoors

For indoor seed starting, grab a seed tray or pots with holes in the bottom. My go-to are these Gardzen 5-Set Seed Starter Tray Kits with Domes from Amazon. They have a nice lid to keep up the humidity. A loose, gritty potting mix is perfect for indoor starts. Mix potting soil with a scoop of gritty sand (three parts to one) for the loose, crumbly dirt these seeds love. Toss seeds a quarter-inch (0.6 cm) deep, an inch apart, so they won’t compete over space. Dust with a thin layer of soil.

Dribble a little bit of water from a watering can to moisten, but not flood the seeds. Then tuck them in a chilly, bright corner, like a shed window, and leave at 50-60°F (10-16°C). Keep soil damp, like a wrung-out rag instead of a puddle, or the seeds will rot quickly. You can add in a little finely crushed eggshells to boost calcium.

Keep the tray or flat covered with a clear lid until you see sprouts. This will happen in 6-8 weeks. Remove the cover and keep plants lightly moist in a brightly lit area.

Planting Grape Hyacinth Seeds Outdoors

If you are planting out in cold frames, use well-draining soil in small pots or flats. Sow following the above instructions, then place the pots or trays in the cold frame. Remember to open the lid of cold frames in spring and let the little plants acclimate to outside conditions. You can continue to grow them in the cold frame, or transplant them carefully the following spring.

If you want to grow muscari from seed with outdoor beds, rake a sunny or half-shady spot loose, 6 inches (15cm) deep. A great option is the Garden Guru Stainless Steel Hand Rake Tiller With Ergonomic Handle from Amazon, which loosens soil and prepares it for your muscari. Flick seeds a quarter-inch down. You also need the soil pH to be 6-7 to keep roots from being unhappy. If you are unsure, you can test the soil using a soil meter like the Raintrip 4-in-1 Soil Meter from Amazon.

Mark the planting site with pebbles to help keep tabs on things. Depending on your taste, this can be discreet or something fancy. You can get cobalt blue tumble stones like Fire Glass Luster Beads from Amazon which resemble the color of purple-blue grape hyacinth flowers. Spread a wispy layer of chopped leaves for mulch to shield from winter. You can even toss in used tea leaves for a root boost. Water lightly, then let the fall rains do their thing – or keep lightly moist.

Caring for Your Muscari Seedlings

Spring brings seedlings like tiny grass blades. Set them in bright, indirect light and water when the soil’s top feels dry. If they’re packed tight, thin to 2 inches (5cm) apart for room to breathe. A fine-spout watering can keep them from washing out.

Sprinkle a pinch of bone meal fertilizer on the dirt. This gives the roots a phosphorus kick that muscari seedlings crave. You can buy Burpee Organic Bone Meal Fertilizer from Amazon. Slugs love the young plants, so be sure and scatter some Harris Diatomaceous Earth 4lb from Amazon, or apply a slug deterrent such as a slug pub to block these slimy pests.

Transplanting Grape Hyacinth Seeds

During the second spring, seedlings will be sturdy enough for their final spot. Dig holes 2-3 inches (5-7.6 cm) deep in a sunny or partial shade bed. Use a trowel or dibber to prepare the planting holes. You can get Stainless Steel Long Handled Trowels with Wooden Handles from Burpee.

Make sure this is loose, well-draining soil. Space them 3-4 inches (8-10 cm) apart for that thicker, carpet-style arrangement. Water well after tucking them in. Try planting them near daffodils for a spring color pop – their taller blooms don’t crowd. Check drainage, because soggy soil kills these bulbs faster than a deep freeze.

Harvesting Grape Hyacinth Seeds

All you really need for muscari seed planting is a spent crop of the plants in your landscape or your neighbor's lot. To get grape hyacinth seeds, wait for late spring when the blooms fade into pods. Snip them when they are brown, but not split, around May or June. Dry them in a paper bag for a week, then shake out the tiny black seeds. There are usually three seeds produced by each flower.

Store seeds in a cloth sack, not plastic, to avoid mold. Buy Leafico Organic Cotton Bags from Amazon. Keep your seeds cool and dry until fall. This keeps the seed cycle spinning for more free plants.

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Some gardeners aren’t crazy about the idea of grape hyacinths popping up in a tidy lawn, but others love the carefree appearance of naturalizing grape hyacinths growing amid the grass. If you belong to the latter group, read on to learn how to naturalize grape hyacinth bulbs in your lawn.

Planting Grape Hyacinth Bulbs in Lawns

In general, planting grape hyacinth bulbs in lawns is about the same as planting bulbs in the flower bed; the only difference is that you’re working around existing turf. There are a couple of ways to go about planting the bulbs. The easiest method is simply to peel back small areas of turf with a spade or other cutting tool. Flip the corner of the turf, plant the bulbs underneath, and then replace the turf and tamp it gently. As long as you provide the area with a little water, the grass will grow back quickly. The second method is to punch a hole for each bulb, using a tool such as a narrow spade, bulb planter or a large screwdriver.

Naturalizing Grape Hyacinths

Naturalizing grape hyacinths, like any type of naturalizing flowers, involves planting the bulbs in an unplanned manner, Mother Nature style. The easiest way to accomplish this natural planting scheme is to simply scatter the bulbs in the area, and then plant them where they fall. If possible, dig in a little compost to improve drainage. However, grape hyacinth bulbs generally do well in existing soil as long as the turf isn’t hard packed. Once the bulbs are planted, grape hyacinths will spread freely and continue the naturalization process with no assistance.

Caring for Grape Hyacinths in Lawns

Like all bulbs, grape hyacinths recharge themselves by absorbing the sun’s energy through the leaves. Ideally, the tops shouldn’t be disturbed until they die down and turn yellow. This presents a challenge for hyacinths grown in lawns, as the grass generally is due for mowing while the tops are still green. Remember that your goal is a natural appearance – not a perfectly manicured lawn. However, if the untidy appearance is more than you can stand, the bulbs should do fine as long as you wait until blooming is completely finished. If the grape hyacinths are growing in patches, mow around the perimeters. Water the bulbs well during plant growth and blooming, then cut back when the foliage begins to turn yellow. Grape hyacinths in lawns require no additional care.

Got some hyacinth bulbs done blooming? Don’t toss them out! Proper curing saves them for another round of flowers. Those bulbs, packed with potential, can burst into scent again with the right steps, resulting in a springtime glow that feels like a gift.

Curing hyacinth bulbs is easy once the process clicks, and a part of good hyacinth care. When to dig up hyacinth bulbs matters, though. Time it wrong, and they won’t bloom. But follow a few simple steps in the right order, and those vibrant blooms can light up another season.

What Is Curing and Why Does It Matter?

Curing hyacinth bulbs is the process of drying them and prepping them for dormancy after they finish their blooming for the year. It’s a little bit like tucking them in for a long nap to recharge for next year. Should hyacinth bulbs be lifted? Yep, lifting and curing helps them store energy for another colorful show. That sweet bloom scent makes the effort worthwhile.

When and Why to Cure Hyacinth Bulbs

Tossing hyacinth bulbs is a waste – many can bloom again with proper curing. Forced bulbs or outdoor ones in zones 4–8 often rebloom if cared for right. Healthy, cured bulbs have a shot at another season of bright spikes. That chance for more flowers sparks a bit of hope.

Bulbs done flowering? They’ll start their shift into dormancy mode after they bloom, whether in pots or in garden beds. The petals will start to drop, and leaves will turn yellow or brown – that’s going to be the cue to start curing. Make sure to hold off on trimming any leaves, though; they fuel the bulb for next year’s flowers.

Step-by-Step: How to Cure Hyacinth Bulbs

1. Let Foliage Die Back Naturally – Hyacinths done blooming? You’ll want to let their leaves turn yellow and brown on their own, which takes about 6–8 weeks after flowers fade. Chopping them up too early robs the bulb of the energy that it needs for future flowering. Just keep watering lightly until the foliage dries up completely. That shriveled look means the bulb is set to be lifted.
2. Lift the Bulbs – Ready to pull those bulbs? Wait until the leaves are fully brown, usually late spring or early summer for garden plants. Gently lift them with a garden fork – don’t nick them. For indoor forced bulbs, ease them out of pots with care.
3. Clean the Bulbs – Make sure to wipe off any of the loose dirt with a soft cloth or your hands. Skip soaking – water brings mold. Trim away dead leaves and roots, keeping the bulb’s smooth skin intact. A cleaned bulb feels ready for a new season’s blooms.
4. Dry (Cure) the Bulbs – Lay your bulbs out. They’ll appreciate a warm, breezy spot, like a dry attic or garage. Shoot for keeping them at 70–80°F (21–27°C) for around 2–3 weeks. Give them a little turn every few days to make sure that they dry evenly. Also, avoid wet areas, because mold is an absolute nightmare. The bulb’s crisp shell shows it's cured and ready for storage.

Storing Cured Hyacinth Bulbs

Bulbs dried and set? You’ll want to slip them into a breathable bag – go for a mesh sack from Amazon or even a paper pouch. Stash them away in a cool, dry spot at 40–50°F (4–10°C), maybe a cellar or fridge. Be sure to steer clear of fruit, though – ethylene gas can ruin your bulbs. Label them all by color for replanting ideas. Keep the dampness away – rot is a killer. That faint bulb aroma hints at next year’s blooms.

Replanting

Ready to plant those beautiful bulbs? You can set them out in the fall for garden beds in zones 4–8, about 4–6 inches (10–15 cm) deep. You can also opt to chill them 12–14 weeks at 35–45 F (2–7 C) for indoor forcing. Just keep in mind that forced bulbs might bloom just a little bit smaller or skip a year without an outdoor recovery. Toss in some nice, rich compost or a little bulb fertilizer, like Espoma from Amazon, at planting time.

Final Considerations

Not all hyacinths rebloom with that same punch, as you could imagine. In reality, only healthy, large bulbs – firm and blemish-free – have the best shot. Smaller or forced bulbs might struggle indoors again. Choosing strong specimens feels like picking the winners for next year’s garden.

Remember to plant forced bulbs outside after curing for a better rebloom chance. A season in the ground helps them rebuild energy. Indoor forcing tires them out. Outdoor beds give that colorful comeback a boost.

Mold or rot hits if storage gets too wet or humid, above 80% humidity. Use breathable containers and dry spots to keep bulbs safe. Only a few soggy bulbs will make it. Dry storage saves that lovely hyacinth fragrance.

With proper curing, hyacinths can bloom for years in gardens. Replant in fall, add compost, and chill bulbs for forcing. It’s a cycle that keeps those vibrant spikes coming back, lifting winter’s chill.

Hyacinth Curing Essentials

Dependable spring-blooming bulbs, hyacinths provide chunky, spiky blooms and a sweet fragrance year after year. Although most gardeners find it easier and faster to purchase hyacinth bulbs, hyacinth propagation by seeds or offset bulbs is easier than you may think. Want to learn more about propagating and growing hyacinth bulbs? Keep reading!

Hyacinth Propagation by Seed

Warning: According to many sources, hyacinth seeds are often sterile, while others state that planting seeds is an easy, dependable way to start a new plant. If you decide to give propagation of hyacinths by seed a try, remove the seeds from a healthy hyacinth bloom after the flower has faded. Fill a planting tray with a compost-based potting mix formulated for seed starting. Spread the seeds evenly on the surface of the potting mix, then cover the seeds with a thin layer of clean horticultural grit or clean, coarse sand. Water the seeds, then place the tray in a cool greenhouse, cold frame or other cool location and allow them to ripen, undisturbed, for a year. After the hyacinth seeds have ripened for a year, seedlings are ready to transplant into pots, or directly into the garden and cared for as usual.

Propagating Hyacinth Offsets

If you would like to know how to propagate bulbs of hyacinth rather than seed grow them, no problem. In fact, this method of hyacinth propagation is quite simple. As the foliage has died down, you will notice small offset bulbs growing at the base of the main bulb. Dig deeply around the outer perimeter of the plant because the offset bulbs may be hidden deep in the soil. When you locate the bulbs, gently separate them from the parent plant. For a naturalized look, simply toss the bulbs on the ground and plant them wherever they land. Allow any remaining top growth to die away naturally. Growing hyacinth bulbs is just that easy!

Hyacinths are famous for their pleasant fragrance. They also grow very well in pots, meaning once they’re in bloom you can move them wherever you’d like, perfuming a patio, a walkway, or a room in your house. Keep reading to learn about how to plant hyacinth bulbs in pots.

How to Plant Hyacinth Bulbs in Pots

Container grown hyacinths are not difficult to grow. Hyacinths bloom in the spring, but their bulbs take a long time to establish roots, which means they should be planted in autumn. Pick out enough containers that your bulbs can fit in them close together but not touching. 

Numbers will vary with the size of your bulbs, but this should equal about seven bulbs for an 8 inch (20 cm.) container, nine for 10 inch (25 cm.) pots, and 10 to 12 bulbs for 12 to 15 inch (31-38 cm.) containers. 

Try to group bulbs of the same color in the same container, or else they might bloom at drastically different times and give your container a thin, unbalanced look. Lay a 2 inch (5 cm.) layer of potting material in the bottom of the pot, moisten it, and lightly pat it down. 

Gently press the bulbs into the material with the pointed end facing up. Add more potting material, pressing it down gently, until just the tips of the bulbs are visible.

Caring for Hyacinths in Containers

Once you’ve planted your bulbs, keep the containers in a dark place below 50 degrees F. (10 C.). If you live in an area that doesn’t get colder than 25 degrees F. (-4 C.), you can leave them outside. Keep light off the containers by covering them in brown paper or garbage bags. 

In the spring, begin gradually exposing the containers to light. After a few weeks, the bulbs should have produced three to five shoots. Move the containers to full sun and let them bloom.

Due to their attractive flowers and delicious smell, potted hyacinths are a popular gift. Once they’re done blooming, though, don’t rush to throw them away. With a little care, you can keep your indoor hyacinth after blooming to ensure many more fragrant blossoms in the future. Keep reading to learn more about hyacinth care indoors after blooming.

Hyacinth Care Indoors After Flowering

After 8 to 12 weeks of blooming, your hyacinth will begin to go dormant. First, the flowers will die, and eventually the leaves will wither. When most of the flowers are brown, cut the entire flower stalk off. This is called deadheading. The foliage will still be green at this point, and should be left to die off naturally. 

Be careful not to break or bend the leaves, as this can prevent the plant from storing up much-needed energy for its next blooming cycle. Feed your plant with a good indoor plant fertilizer to build up even more of this energy. Don’t overwater, though. Hyacinth bulbs are prone to bulb rot if watered too vigorously.

What to Do With Indoor Hyacinth After Blooming

Eventually, the leaves will wither and brown. This isn’t your fault - it’s just the plant’s natural cycle. Once the leaves are dead, cut the entire plant back to soil level, so only bulb and roots remain. Move your pot to a cold, dark space. You may even want to put a paper grocery or black garbage bag over the pot to keep out the light. 

Don’t touch your hyacinth until the spring. At that point, begin to expose it gradually to light, and it should begin to send up new shoots. Hyacinths propagate by sending up daughter shoots, meaning your plant will take up more and more space each year. If your pot seemed just big enough last year, move the plant, while it’s still dormant, into a bigger pot, or plant it outside in your garden to give it more room to grow.

One of the most welcome signs of spring is the emergence of the fragrant and stout hyacinth. Whether grown in the ground or indoors in a pot, the flowers of this plant promise the end of cold temperatures and frost to gardeners everywhere. Unfortunately, problems aren’t uncommon, with the hyacinth plant turning brown among the most frequently encountered. Find out if your hyacinth has a real problem or if it’s just going through its normal lifecycle in this article.

Help! My Hyacinth is Turning Brown!

Before you panic because your hyacinth is browning, take a deep breath. Browning hyacinth plants aren’t always a cause for concern. In fact, it’s often just a signal that they’ve done their thing for the year and are getting ready to shed their flowers or go into dormancy. If your plant is turning brown, check these things before panicking:

• Light. Indoor hyacinths need plenty of light, but they shouldn’t be in a window with direct sunlight. Too much light can cause brown leaves on hyacinth, as well as not enough.
• Water. Root rot is another major problem with indoor hyacinths. Overwatering can cause the root system to turn into mush, inhibiting its ability to move nutrients through the plant. Yellowing and browning are signs of this problem. Unpot your plant, check the roots, and repot into it dry medium if you want to save it. Never allow plant pots to stand in water in a dish; instead, allow the excess water to drain out the bottom of the pot.
• Frost damage. Outdoor hyacinths are sometimes kissed by frost when they’re first emerging from the ground. This will usually manifest as brown spots that later grow into blotches. Prevent these spots by providing a 2- to 4-inch (5-10 cm.) layer of mulch to protect tender growth early in the season.
• Insects. Hyacinths are generally pest-free, but once in a while thrips or sap-sucking insects will attack them. Look for small insects under the leaves and inside open flower buds. If you detect movement or see what appears to be woolly or scaly growth on wilting areas of the plant, spray it with neem oil weekly until the bugs are gone.
• Fungal infections. Infections like Botrytis fungus can cause brown blooms on hyacinths. The spots from this disease are gray-brown and will rot quickly. Increasing the air circulation around the plant and watering it properly will dry out this type of infection.

Tassel hyacinth bulbs, known as lampascioni, are considered a delicacy in Mediterranean countries where the plant is cultivated for this purpose. However, many gourmets think the flavor of wild plants is superior to cultivated bulbs. Read on for more wild tassel hyacinth info, and learn how to take care of tassel hyacinths in your garden.

Wild Tassel Hyacinth Info

Tassel grape hyacinth (Leopoldia comosa or Leopoldia muscari), also known as tassel hyacinth, fringe hyacinth, or musk hyacinth, is a wildflower native to Turkey, Iraq, and southeastern Europe. Tassel grape hyacinths are similar to the familiar garden-variety grape hyacinths, but the brownish green flowers are topped by tufts of violet-blue, fringe-like blooms. The lower part of the flowers are fertile, but the tassels are sterile. Tassel hyacinth bulbs are hardy to USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 8. Tassel grape hyacinth is a woodland plant that prefers dappled sunlight or light shade. It works well in garden edges, beds, or along garden paths. However, consider carefully before planting tassel grape hyacinth. Although the plant is non-native in the United States, tassel grape hyacinth has naturalized across much of the United States. It multiplies rapidly and is considered an invasive plant in some areas.

Tassel Hyacinth Growing

Tassel hyacinth growing is simple, but the plant requires well-drained soil to prevent the bulbs from rotting. If the soil is soggy, add several inches (8 cm.) of compost or mulch to improve drainage. Plant the round tassel hyacinth bulbs about 3 inches (8 cm.) deep in fall, with the pointy side up. Allow 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) between each bulb. Water deeply immediately after planting. The bulbs will bloom in spring.

Care of Tassel Hyacinths

Water tassel hyacinths well while the plant is growing and developing leaves, then cut back on water after the blooms fade. Leave the foliage in place until the leaves turn yellow, as the green foliage absorbs sunlight, thus providing energy to feed the bulbs for the coming blooming season. Once established, tassel grape hyacinth is easy to propagate by dividing and planting the bulb offsets.

Hyacinths are the harbinger of warm weather and the herald of a season of bounty. Bud problems with hyacinth are rare but occasionally these spring bulbs fail to bloom. Finding out why hyacinth buds fall off or, worse, why they never formed buds in the first place, can take some sleuthing. Various insects and animals find buds a tasty addition to their early spring diet while improper chilling could cause hyacinth flower problems. If you are sure you picked good bulbs and they are situated properly, get down on your hands and knees and find out the real reason your flowers have gone missing.

Why Hyacinth Buds Fall Off

Spring bulbs need a period of at least 12 to 15 weeks of chilling. This helps bulbs break dormancy and sprout a vigorous root system. Hyacinths are normally planted in fall in order to allow nature to provide this chilling period. Alternately, you can purchase pre-chilled bulbs and plant in spring. If your buds are forming but dropping before they have a chance to open, the cause may be in your soil. Improperly drained soil is a death knell for most bulbs. It promotes rot which can stop growth in its tracks. Another potential cause is poor soil nutrition. Always incorporate a good bulb food at planting to give your bulbs the best chance at sprouting and blooming. In addition, over time, bulbs naturalize and form bulblets which grow into full bulbs within a couple of years. The old bulbs will stop forming flowers, but never fear, the bulblets will soon be performing and a new crop of flowers will form.

Hyacinth Blooms Dropping Off from Pests

Tender shoots are irresistible food for animals that have survived the lean winter months. Outdoor hyacinth plants are prey to:

• Cutworms
• Deer
• Rabbits
• Squirrels
• Chipmunks
• Skunks

A very common condition where flower bulbs simply disappear is caused by cutworms. Cutworms don’t often bother flower bulbs but, on occasion, they will come in the night and simply snip and chomp away a tender bud. More likely causes for sudden bud problems with hyacinth are animals. Deer and other grazers eat tender shoots like candy and the forming bud is especially delicious. Usually the animal will take the entire plant, greens and all, but sometimes it is just the flower. Although animal pests can take a serious chunk out of your bulb patch, they do no lasting harm to the bulb itself unless you are plagued by digging rodents. Use repellents or cover the bulb patch with chicken wire or a row cover to prevent hyacinths from becoming a midnight snack.

Other Hyacinth Flower Problems

Hyacinth bud drop is a rare problem. Hyacinths are hardy bulbs with few pest or disease issues. Hyacinth blooms dropping off at the end of the season signal the time for the foliage to gather energy and recharge the bulb. Blooms only last a few weeks and then fade and die, raining the tiny florets to the ground as they go. In order to ensure a future crop of blooms, it is a good idea to divide a patch every two to three years. Allow the foliage to persist until it starts to yellow and then dig up the bulbs. Remove any with rot or disease and pick out the largest bulbs. Replant these in well worked soil that has been amended with organic supplements. This will allow the largest, healthiest bulbs to thrive without the sapping effect of an overcrowded patch.

The garden offers us a variety of beautiful plants to pick and choose between. Many are selected because of their prolific fruit production, while others attract us with insurmountable beauty. Water hyacinth is one of those plants that is deceptively gorgeous, delivering a serious payload to anyone unlucky enough to plant them in warm climates. Water hyacinth in ponds seems like a great idea when you plant them, but it won't be long before you need major help.

Is Water Hyacinth Invasive?

Although the brilliant purple water hyacinth isn't yet federally listed as a noxious weed, plant and waterway experts the world over agree: this plant is bad news. The plant was initially spread because of its beautiful flowers, but the mistake of this particular decision was soon realized-- after the damage couldn't be undone. Now, water hyacinth threatens dams, waterways, and wildlife across the globe, often forming dense mats so thick that a grown man can walk across them. So, while it's not legally considered invasive, water hyacinth control occupies a great deal of time in the minds of experts everywhere. These people would tell you that it's only a matter of time before this plant is listed and regulated because of its aggressive nature.

How to Control Water Hyacinth

If you've already been drawn in by the siren song of the water hyacinth, or a former owner of your property fell hard for this plant, you know the sheer determination it can exhibit. Managing water hyacinths is no small feat, but you can rid your garden ponds of these plants for good. The most effective methods so far found to control these plants include draining ponds completely, then removing and chopping up the plant (away from the pond, as even a small piece can regrow into new water hyacinths). Water hyacinth can then be composted, provided your compost pile is far from any water sources that could be affected by runoff, or double-bagged and thrown in the trash. It may take several tries to rid your pond completely of water hyacinth, due to its weed-like behavior. If you've tried simply pulling this plant out of your pond in the past, without draining or cleaning the pond and equipment thoroughly, you've probably convinced yourself nothing will kill water hyacinth. However, by using an aggressive combination approach, you should be rid of your water hyacinth in no time.

You know it's spring when the hyacinths are finally in full bloom, their tidy spire of flowers reaching into the air. Some years though, it seems like no matter what you do your hyacinths won't bloom. If yours are failing you this year, check with us to discover the most common causes of a lack of bloom. It may be easier to get your hyacinths back on track than you imagined.

How to Get a Hyacinth Bulb to Bloom

Hyacinth flowers not blooming is a common garden problem with many easy solutions, depending on the cause of your bloom failure. Having no blooms on hyacinths is a frustrating problem. After all, these bulbs are practically fool proof. If you've got lots of stalks, but no hyacinth flowers, run down this checklist before you panic. Timing - Not all hyacinths bloom at the same time, though you can reasonably expect them to appear sometime in early spring. If your neighbor's hyacinths are blooming and yours aren't, you may just need to wait a little longer. Give them time, especially if they're new to the garden. Age - Hyacinths aren't generally strong enough to last forever, unlike your tulips and lilies. These members of the bulb garden begin to decline after about two seasons. You may need to replace your bulbs if you want blooms again. Prior Year's Care - Your plants need plenty of time in a full sun location after they bloom to recharge their batteries for next year. If you cut them back too soon or plant them in a low light location, they may lack the strength to bloom at all. Prior Storage - Improperly stored bulbs may lose their flower buds to dehydration or inconsistent temperatures. Buds may also abort if they're stored near sources of ethylene gas, common in garages and produced by apples. In the future, cut one of the bulbs in half if they're stored in a questionable location and check the flower bud before planting. Discount Bulbs - Although there's nothing wrong with getting a garden bargain, sometimes you don't get as good of a deal as you really hoped. At the end of the season, leftover bulbs may be damaged or the discounted remainders just too shrimpy for full production.

With its plump, spiky blooms, sweet fragrance, and a rainbow of bright colors, there's no reason not to like hyacinth. Hyacinth is usually a carefree bulb that flower every spring for several years with minimal attention. If yours aren't cooperating, there are several possible reasons for this frustrating failure to flower.

Getting Hyacinth to Bloom Year After Year

Cut the stalk as soon as the flower fades. Removing the stalk is beneficial because it prevents the flower from developing seeds, which saps energy from the bulbs. However, never remove the foliage until it turns yellow, which usually occurs about six to eight weeks after blooming. The yellowing leaves may be unsightly, but removing the foliage too early prevents the plant from absorbing energy from the sun through the process of photosynthesis. This is the most important thing to remember about how to keep hyacinth flowers blooming, as the bulbs may simply not have the get up and go to produce flowers. Otherwise, hyacinth care is relatively simple. Supplemental feeding ensures the bulbs have the nutrients needed to produce hyacinth flowers every year. Feed the plants as soon as they sprout in spring, then again in early autumn. The second feeding is most important because it sustains the bulbs through the winter and prepares them for blooming the following spring. To fertilize hyacinth, just sprinkle a scant handful of any well-balanced dry garden fertilizer on the ground around each plant, then water in well. Never feed hyacinth immediately after blooming; fertilizing at this time does more harm than good and may cause rot and other diseases.

How to Keep Hyacinth Flowers Blooming in a Warm Climate

In spite of their beauty, hyacinth is a cold weather bulb that won't bloom without a period of winter chill. If you grow in USDA plant hardiness zones 9 or above, you'll need to trick the bulbs into thinking they live in a cooler climate. Dig the bulbs after the foliage dies down and turns yellow. Brush off excess soil and place them in a mesh or paper bag. Store the bulbs in the refrigerator for six to eight weeks, then replant them in late December or early January. Never store bulbs near apples or other fruit because the ethylene gases will kill the bulbs. If you've tried everything and your hyacinths still don't bloom, it may be time to dig them up and start with fresh bulbs. Don't scrimp. Big, healthy, pest resistant bulbs cost more but they produce bigger, healthier blooms. Be sure to work a little compost into the soil before planting.

Beautiful but destructive in the wrong environment, water hyacinths (Eichhornia crassipes) are among the showiest of water garden plants. Flower stalks that grow about six inches (15 cm.) above the foliage arise from the centers of the rosettes in spring, and by the end of spring, each plant holds as many as 20 gorgeous purple flowers. The flowers last until fall and make striking cut flowers.

How to Grow Water Hyacinth

Growing water hyacinth plants is easy. Once established, they require no special care except occasional thinning to keep them from choking out everything else in the pond. Under perfect conditions, a colony of water hyacinths can double its size every 8 to 12 days. Water hyacinths need full sun and hot summer temperatures. Introduce them to the garden by scattering bunches of plants over the surface of the water. They quickly take hold and begin to grow. Thin the plants when they cover more than 60 percent of the water surface. Water hyacinth plants survive winters in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. They are best grown as annuals in places where cold winters keep them in check by killing them back. In warmer areas, these plants do become invasive. You can overwinter them indoors in a sunny spot, but they are inexpensive to replace each year. Most gardeners don't find them worth the trouble to keep over winter.

Container Grown Water Hyacinths

A half barrel is an ideal container for a water hyacinth. The plants need full sun in garden ponds, but in containers they do best if they have shade from mid to late afternoon. Cover the inside of the barrel with a heavy duty garbage bag and then place a layer of soil in the bottom of the container. Don't use commercial potting soil, which contains fertilizers and other chemicals that may harm the plant and encourage the growth of algae. Commercial soils also contain perlite and vermiculite, which floats to the top of the container. Cover the soil with a thin layer of sand. City water is usually treated with chlorine or chloramine, which is harmful to plants. Garden centers sell products that remove the chlorine and chloramine from the water and make it safe for plants. There is no need to treat the small amounts of water that you use to top off the container through the season. You can allow the plant to float on the surface of the water, or anchor it in place by attaching one end of a length of nylon string to the plant and the other end to a brick. WARNING: Water hyacinth is a highly invasive species in areas with mild winters. The plants are banned in several states. Once they enter waterways, the plants grow and reproduce to form dense mats that choke out native species. A thick growth of water hyacinths can ensnare boat motors and make it impossible to use infested lakes for recreational purposes. The plants block out sunlight and deplete oxygen, killing off fish and other wildlife that live in the water.

Grape hyacinths rise in early spring with sweet little clusters of purple and sometimes white flowers. They are prolific bloomers which naturalize easily and arrive year after year. The plants can get out of hand over time and removal is a process that requires persistence. Fear not. There is a method and a plan for removing grape hyacinths.

Grape Hyacinth Weeds

Grape hyacinth produces numerous seeds once the blooms are spent and bulbets are formed off the parent bulbs for future flowers. This allows grape hyacinth plants to spread rapidly and sometimes out of control. Grape hyacinth weeds infest untilled fields and garden beds alike and may rely upon sequential grape hyacinth control for complete removal.

Most grape hyacinth bulbs are planted on purpose with the intention of brightening up the front path or spring flower bed, but the ease with which this plant reproduces can make it a real nuisance in some instances and its invasive abilities are a threat to crop land.

Grape hyacinth control will necessitate the removal of seed heads before they produce viable seed and extraction of as many bulbs as possible. Since the plants are able to make many tiny bulbs off the main one, it can be almost impossible to find them all in a season. Complete elimination may take years.

Grape Hyacinth Control

The first step to get rid of grape hyacinth is to remove seed scapes after the flower petals have fallen. Although it takes at least four years for the little seedlings to form flowers, the seeds will eventually restart the hyacinth take over.

Pull the leaves as well, as these are giving solar energy to turn to starch, which is then stored for the next year's growth in the bulbs and bulbets. Normally, leaving the foliage until it has died back is recommended, but in this case, it is just adding fuel to the fire. You can also use a propane weed torch and burn off the greens. This method will require several years for complete success but eventually the plants will die.

Getting Rid of Grape Hyacinth Bulbs Manually

Removing grape hyacinths manually is a bit of a chore but works better than herbicide use. This is because the bulbs and bulbets have a waxy coating which helps protect them in winter, but also erects an effective barrier against chemicals. Dig at least 6 inches (15 cm.) down and pull out as many of the bulbs as possible.

Removing grape hyacinths completely is a challenge because it is hard to spot every single bulb. If you want to be meticulous, allow the foliage to grow in spring and then follow each and every leaf to its bulb or bulbet source. That is a bit intense for most gardeners so some follow up is usually necessary the next season and possibly even the one after too.

Chemical Warfare to Get Rid of Grape Hyacinth

A 20 percent horticultural vinegar applied to the leaves will kill the foliage, leaving the bulbs weak.

Another way to get rid of grape hyacinth is with weed killers. Spray at the rate recommended on the bottle on a windless, mild day. Be careful because this method of grape hyacinth control is non-specific and can kill other plants if the chemical spray gets on their leaves.

Note: Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are more environmentally friendly.

One of the first blooms of spring, the gardener who is impatiently waiting is always glad to see the tiny clusters of miniature grape hyacinths begin to bloom. After a few years, the blooms may falter from overcrowding. At this time, you might wonder about digging and transplanting grape hyacinth bulbs.

Can You Transplant Grape Hyacinths?

Moving grape hyacinth bulbs from one area to another is a great use of the multiplied plant. It takes several years of growth before this plant stops blooming because of overcrowding in the bed. If your bulbs have been growing in the same spot without division for a long while, you can transplant grape hyacinths into other spots in the landscape.

When to Transplant Grape Hyacinths

Learning when to transplant grape hyacinths is not hard, because they are flexible and quite tough. Botanically known as Muscari armeniacum, moving grape hyacinth bulbs is best done in late summer. You can also begin transplanting grape hyacinth bulbs in autumn when you're moving, transplanting, and planting other spring blooming bulbs. You can even move grape hyacinth bulbs in spring. Replant them quickly and water in and you might even keep the bloom. It is easier to find the bulbs if you dig them in summer, however, before the foliage is completely died back. Using the planting technique of layering, you can transplant tiny grape hyacinth bulbs near or even on top of other spring bulbs with a later bloom time. If you must move grape hyacinth bulbs at another time of year, they will probably survive. Leave the foliage intact until it dies back.

How to Transplant Grape Hyacinths

Start by making a small trench around the entire cluster of foliage. As grape hyacinths are propagated by the small bulbs (called offsets) that have grown attached to the mother bulb, you'll want to dig the entire bunch and then separate them. Offsets that have developed a root system will easily break off. When moving grape hyacinth bulbs, take the biggest offsets to plant alone into their own space. Leave the tiny new bulbs attached to the mother for another couple of years. When transplanting grape hyacinth bulbs, you can separate the smallest if you like, but they may not flower for a couple more years and may not have enough energy to survive alone. Dig a wide, shallow hole for the bulbs you're transplanting. Grape hyacinths do not need to be planted close together; allow room for offsets to develop. You can also transplant grape hyacinths into a container for a full sun area indoors. Now that you've learned how to transplant grape hyacinth bulbs, you'll find many areas of the landscape where they're a welcome addition.

There is a very particular kind of joy you get in seeing a vibrant spike of hyacinths blooming on a windowsill while snow is drifting against the glass outside. It’s like a little act of defiance, but also hope, pushing out towards spring while still waiting for the longer days and sunnier moments to arrive. Hyacinths can chase away winter’s blues with a gentle push, and forcing hyacinth bulbs means you’ll feel better sooner.

While most spring bulbs wait for the world to thaw, you can force hyacinths to bloom early. A well-timed chill and the right hyacinth care will bring their legendary perfume and electric colors into action long before March. Forcing hyacinths is simply the process of mimicking winter to trick bulbs into thinking spring has arrived early. With just a little patience and care, you can transform a dormant bulb into a masterpiece of scent and color. Here’s how to force hyacinths indoors to chase away the winter blues.

Choose and Prep Bulbs

The secret to a spectacular indoor show starts long before the first sprout appears. When selecting bulbs, look for those that are healthy, plump, firm, and heavy for their size. Think of the bulb as a battery, and all the energy for the flower is already stored inside. So the bigger and healthier the bulb, the more charge it has for blooming. Deep blue ‘Blue Star’ Hyacinth and soft pink ‘Fondant’ Hyacinth are reliable classics for indoor forcing, as well as ‘Blue Jacket’ Hyacinth Bulbs, all available from Amazon.

If you want to skip a few weeks of waiting, look for prepared or pre-chilled bulbs at your garden center. These have undergone a period of cold treatment, meaning they will bloom much faster once brought into the warmth. Before you begin, though, a word of caution. Hyacinth bulbs contain oxalic acid, which can cause a tingly, itchy skin irritation called hyacinth itch, so wear gardening gloves when handling them. If you aren't planting immediately, store bulbs in a cool, dry place (40-50°F/4-10°C) inside a paper bag. Avoid plastic, which can trap moisture and lead to rots.

Art of the Chill: Stratification

The most critical step in forcing hyacinths is the cold period, also known as stratification. In nature, bulbs need a long, cold sleep to develop a strong root system before they bother sending up a flower. To replicate this, hyacinth bulbs for forcing will need 12-14 weeks of temperatures between 35°F-45°F (2-7°C). Chill your bulbs before planting, by placing them in a paper bag in the refrigerator crisper drawer. However, be mindful of roommates, and keep them away from apples or ripening fruit. These fruits emit ethylene gas, which can destroy the flower bud inside the bulb.

Alternatively, you can plant in pots first and then move the entire pot to a cold basement, garage, or fridge. The goal is a dark, chilly environment that whispers winter to the bulb. During this time, the magic happens. While nothing seems to be happening to the naked eye, the roots are busily creeping into life. You can plant bulbs any time between September through January, depending on when you want the flower to bloom. It takes 16 weeks for the plant to bloom, including the chill time (remember you can get pre-chilled bulbs to speed the process further).

Best Display Method: Soil or Water?

There are two beautiful ways to display your forced hyacinths, each offering a different aesthetic for your home. You can either opt for traditional container-based forcing, or you can create a sort of hydroponic-style hyacinth display. Or if you can’t decide on how to force hyacinths, why not experiment with both methods?

• The Traditional Soil Method: Use a potting mix that is light and well-draining. A blend of peat and sand or a high-quality bulb compost works well. Choose a pot with drainage holes and plant the bulbs close together (about an inch apart) with the pointy ends facing up. Ensure they aren't touching each other or the sides of the pot. Leave the noses or tips of the bulbs just peeking out above the soil line. Water lightly.
• The Elegant Water Method: Forcing hyacinths in bulb vases (hourglass-shaped glasses) allows you to watch the root system grow. Fill the vase with water just below the base of the bulb. It is vital that the bulb itself doesn't sit in the water, as this will cause it to rot. The roots will naturally reach down toward the moisture. You can also use a shallow bowl filled with decorative pebbles, nestling the bulbs into the stones for stability. You can buy an Aqua Hyacinth Bulb and Glass Vase for Forcing from Amazon.

From Darkness into Light

After the bulbs are planted, water them thoroughly. Place them in your dark, cool place and keep the soil moist during the cooling period. Roots will form after 5-6 weeks and shoots soon afterward. You can remove the bulbs from cold storage after 12-13 weeks. It is not necessary to fertilize forced bulbs for early flowering.

Once the chilling period is over and you see sturdy green shoots 2 inches (5 cm) tall, move your hyacinths to a slightly warmer spot with bright, indirect light. Around 60–65°F (15–18°C) is the sweet spot. If the room is above 70°F, the plant will grow too quickly, resulting in floppy stems and flowers that fade in a few days. Use a digital thermometer like the ThermoPro TP50 from Amazon to keep temperatures steady.

Light is equally important. A south-facing window is ideal, but keep the bulbs a few feet back to avoid direct, scorching sun. If you notice the stems leaning toward the glass, give the pot a quarter-turn every day to keep them growing straight. During this stage, keep the soil moist but never soggy. For water-grown bulbs, change the water once a week to keep it fresh and clear. Within 4-6 weeks after coming out of the cold, florets will begin to open, filling your room with that unmistakable fragrance.

Post-Bloom Hyacinth Care

When the flowers finally fade, your hyacinths aren't necessarily finished, though their journey as indoor plants usually is. You can deadhead the faded flower stalk to prevent the plant from wasting energy on seed production, but leave the green leaves intact. Continue to water the foliage until it turns yellow and dies back naturally. This allows the bulb to pull nutrients back into itself.

While forced bulbs are often too exhausted to bloom indoors a second time, they can be retired to the garden. Once the ground thaws in the spring, plant them outdoors in a sunny spot in USDA zones 4-8 for a shot at reblooming. They may take a year or so to recover their strength, but chances are good that they will rejoin the natural rhythm of the seasons and surprise you with a return appearance.

Frequently Asked Questions

Hyacinth Care Essentials

Forcing your hyacinths indoors is a satisfying way to enjoy more of your favorite blooms, but remember it’s just the start of the plant care journey. Use these care essentials to get the most from your hyacinths.

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A vigorous, ornamental, annual vine, purple hyacinth bean plant (Dolichos lablab or Lablab purpurea), displays beautiful, pinkish-purple blossoms and interesting, reddish-purple pods that grow to be about the same size as lima bean pods. The hyacinth bean plant adds loads of color and interest to any garden right through fall.

Thomas Jefferson's favorite nurseryman Bernard McMahon sold hyacinth bean vine plants to Jefferson in 1804. Because of this, the hyacinth bean is also known as Jefferson bean. These fabulous heirloom plants are now featured at Monticello in the Colonial kitchen garden.

How to Grow a Hyacinth Bean Vine

Purple hyacinth beans are not fussy about soil type but do best when planted in full sun. These vigorous growers do require a sturdy support that is at least 10 to 15 feet (3-4.5 m.) high. Many gardeners grow this lovely vine on a sturdy trellis, fence, or arbor. For example, this Artism Heavy Duty Steel Garden Arbor & Trellis from Amazon is easy to assemble, and welded to provide a strong support to climbing plants.

Seeds can be sown directly outdoors once the threat of frost has passed. Seeds can also be started indoors several weeks before the weather warms. Transplants are best when planted on the small side. Once planted, these low-maintenance plants require very little care. 

Provide regular water for transplants and seedlings for best results.

When to Pick Purple Hyacinth Bean Seed Pods

Although purple hyacinth beans are used as a forage crop in some parts of the world, they are not recommended for eating, as they have to be cooked in a very particular way. Instead, they are best enjoyed as ornamental plants in the landscape. For those wanting to grow additional plants, the seed pods can be harvested. Therefore, knowing when to pick purple hyacinth bean seed pods is helpful. 

Once the flower dies away, the pods begin to take on significant size. The best time to harvest the bean seedpods is just prior to your first frost. Seeds are easy to keep, and you can use them next year in the garden. 

Seeds can be easily removed from dried seedpods for storage.

Are your hyacinths falling over? Don't worry, there is a silver lining. This is a common issue that many people encounter when growing these plants. Continue reading to learn more about supporting top heavy hyacinth flowers and how to fix a dropping hyacinth plant for good.

Reasons for Hyacinth Plant Flopping

There are several reasons that can be attributed to hyacinth plant flopping. Let's go over the most common causes for hyacinths falling over in the garden:

 Top Heaviness and Variety - One of the most common complaints when growing hyacinth flowers is floppy stems. Top heavy hyacinth flowers cause the stem to flop over while in full bloom. Some of the taller varieties of hyacinth flowers are naturally prone to flopping. 

Light and Temperature - Another reason for hyacinth drooping is either not enough light or excessive heat. Indoor hyacinth plants should be kept in bright, indirect light, while those planted outdoors require a sunnier location. In addition, hyacinths prefer to be kept a bit on the cool side, around 60 degrees F. (16 C.) indoors and no more than 70 to 75 degrees F. (21-24 C.) outside. 

Soil and Plant Depth - Not always a major problem for most people, but sometimes it's the health of your soil that may be causing your hyacinths to fall over. No, not poor soil as you might think, but actually rich soil can occasionally be blamed for floppy hyacinths. 

Too many nutrients can cause rapid growth, which then leads to thinner, weaker stems. Planting depth can also affect the floppiness of stems. If bulbs are not planted deep enough, it can sometimes result in weak stems that are more prone to bending over and breaking.

How to Fix a Drooping Hyacinth Plant

Learning how to fix a drooping hyacinth plant obviously depends on its cause. While there's nothing you can do about top-heaviness, as this is simply a natural growing characteristic with these plants, you can still alleviate the issue of hyacinths falling over through plant staking or closer planting (which help the blooms to support one another). This can be done either in pots or in garden beds. 

Since various cultivars differ in their heights and floppiness, choosing a shorter variety can help reduce bending of stems. Planting precautions can also help with hyacinth plant flopping. Avoid planting bulbs in overly warm weather. Of course, in the garden there's little you can do for unusually warm spring temperatures but indoors they should be kept between 60 and 70 degrees F. (16-21 C.) 

Also, be sure to provide sufficient lighting. If they are growing in shade or a darker room, you should move them to a sunnier or brighter location. In order to prevent falling hyacinths due to overly rich soils, go easy on the organic matter or fertilizer when planting. 

Also, while roots need to be deep enough to reach water, the stem needs reinforcement at the base to support the abundant florets of each hyacinth flower, meaning deeper planting helps produce stronger stems. Therefore, plant your hyacinth bulbs at a depth of 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm.).

Hyacinth Bulb Support

Depending on the variety, hyacinth plants grow up to 18 inches (46 cm.) tall and their large, globe-like blooms may be become quite heavy. It is because of this; tall top-heavy hyacinth flowers must be supported. 

So how does one go about providing hyacinth bulb support? That's easy. Use thin bamboo stakes or small skewers for staking hyacinth flowers. Cut the stakes to the approximate height of the plant, plus 4 inches (10 cm). 

Once the stalks break through and flowers begin sprouting in spring, carefully insert the stake about 4 inches (10 cm.) into the potting soil or ground, about an inch (2.5 cm.) from the stem, slowly easing the top of the stake under the flower head and along the length of the stem. 

Loosely tie the stake to the plant with coated plant ties, twine, or strips of panty hose. Be sure to remove the stakes after the flowering season and store them for later use.

Reminiscent of clustered upside-down grapes and extremely fragrant, grape hyacinths (Muscari) have long since been admired. These old-time favorites emerge in fall with grass-like foliage and by late winter or early spring, they explode into bloom with clusters of tiny cobalt blue, bell-shaped flowers. Who has time to wait though? It's easy to force grape hyacinth into early bloom, growing grape hyacinth indoors throughout winter and adding color and fragrance to your home.

Forcing Grape Hyacinth Indoors

To force grape hyacinth indoors, you'll need to dig up existing bulbs or purchase them in late summer or early fall. To enjoy blooms from January through March, pot the bulbs for chilling in September or October. Grape hyacinth bulbs require a cold period of 35 to 48 degrees F. (2-9 C.) for at least ten weeks. Plant the bulbs, anywhere from 12 to 15 inches (31-38 cm.), in a bulb pan or other suitable container at least 6 inches (15 cm.) around and 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm.) deep. Moist potting soil is preferable, filling the pot to within a couple inches (5 cm.) of its rim and placing the bulbs about an inch (2.5 cm.) apart with their tips pointing upward. Move the pot to a cool, dark area (for about ten weeks). Depending on your location, this might be an unheated basement or cellar, cold frame, well-ventilated crawlspace, or even an unused refrigerator (keeping the bulbs away from any fruits and vegetables).

Growing Grape Hyacinth Indoors

Check the bulbs occasionally during the chilling period, watering weekly. Water just enough to keep the soil moist not wet. Once the roots begin spilling out from the bottom of the pot, bring the grape hyacinth indoors. Choose a bright, slightly cool (not cold) area of your home in order to stimulate flowering. Continue to keep the soil moist. Once grape hyacinth blooms appear, you can prolong their flowering by keeping them located in cooler areas of the home. Likewise, you can plant several pots at various intervals and bring them inside in stages to enjoy longer flowering displays. Forcing grape hyacinth and growing grape hyacinth indoors is an easy and fun way to enjoy their beautiful, fragrant, grape-like blooms early in the season.

One of the earliest spring bulbs is the hyacinth. It usually appears after crocuses but before tulips, and has old-fashioned charm combined with a sweet, subtle scent. That signature fragrance is popular in French perfume, and the flowers are an important part of Persian New Year celebrations.

In the garden, hyacinths are some of the most reliable types of bulbs you can plant – a lovely signal that spring has arrived and colorful flower displays are just getting started.

Hyacinth Quick Facts

Hyacinth Planting Guide

Hyacinths bloom early in the spring, which means their bulbs need to be planted the autumn before. Plant hyacinth bulbs 6-8 weeks before the first hard frost date, or when the ground temperature drops to 50-55 F (10-13 C). For many gardeners, this falls in September through October. This gives the bulbs enough time to establish roots before winter dormancy.

Hyacinths crave full sun, so plant them where they will receive at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. They can tolerate partial shade, but the flowers might not be quite as impressive. However, in especially hot climates, a break from the afternoon sun is welcome.

Hyacinths need loose, well-draining soil – soggy soil can lead to bulb rot. If your soil is heavy or poorly draining, amend it with compost or other organic matter. A little grit will provide extra drainage. Or you can avoid the problem altogether by planting your hyacinths in pots, where they perform very well.

Follow these steps to plant hyacinth bulbs:

1. Loosen the soil and space your bulbs 5 inches (13 cm) apart.
2. Dig a hole for each bulb. When planting bulbs, the depth should be 4-5 inches (10-13 cm), or a good rule of thumb is 2 to 3 times the bulb's height. A bulb planting tool, such as this Edward Tools bulb planter from Amazon, makes it quick and easy.
3. Put your bulbs into the holes with the pointy end up, and the flat (root) end pointing down. Then backfill the hole with soil and gently firm it down to remove air pockets.
4. Add a label so you don't forget where you planted your hyacinths.
5. Water thoroughly to settle the soil, and only again if the autumn is very dry.
6. A light mulch is optional, but it can help suppress weeds and protect against hard frosts.

How to Care for Hyacinths

Once they’re in the ground, hyacinths are hands-off plants that require very little maintenance. During the growing season (early to mid-spring), you should keep the soil moist but not soggy. If your garden is anything like mine, this shouldn’t be a problem, as snowmelt and spring showers keep everything good and wet this time of year.

Fertilize your hyacinths lightly with a slow-release bulb fertilizer as soon as the shoots first appear, and again right after flowering, to replenish bulb energy for next spring and keep hyacinths blooming year after year. A regular balanced fertilizer works just fine, or you can opt for a bulb-specific fertilizer like this one on Amazon. It’s a bit heavier in phosphorus, which promotes good flower production.

Pruning Hyacinths

Pruning hyacinths is simple, but it contains an important distinction. Deadheading is fine. This involves cutting the flower stem off at the base to make the plant look neater and prevent it from expending unnecessary energy on seed production. (If you’re looking to save seeds, obviously, skip this step!)

Pruning the foliage, however, is another matter. Once your hyacinths are done blooming, don’t cut the leaves back! Water normally, and let the foliage stay in place for several weeks until it yellows and withers on its own. This extra time gives the plant the chance to photosynthesize and store up energy in its bulb. This is how it makes it through the winter and produces beautiful flowers again the following spring.

If you're growing hyacinths in pots or forcing them indoors, the same rules apply –remove the spent flowers right away, but leave the leaves until they naturally fade. Removing leaves too early can weaken the bulb and make next year’s blooms lackluster.

Hyacinth Care Calendar

Types of Hyacinths

The most frequently grown species is Hyacinthus orientalis, also known as Dutch or common hyacinth. These are the iconic spring-blooming varieties found in gardens, containers, and floral displays. They’re known for their vibrant colors and strong fragrance.

There are around 50 hyacinth cultivars in commercial circulation today. Some popular ones include:

• ‘Blue Jacket’ – deep cobalt blue, very fragrant
• ‘Amethyst’ – bright pink with a sweet scent
• ‘Carnegie’ – pure white with a classic look
• ‘Woodstock’ – rich purple, intensely fragrant

Propagating Hyacinths

The most common method of hyacinth propagation is by bulb offsets. These are small “baby” bulbs that grow from the main bulb underground. After a few years, you’ll want to divide your hyacinths by separating these offsets. This is good for creating new plants, and also for preventing overcrowding.

Wait until your hyacinth’s dormant period – this is after the flowers have faded and the foliage has died back, usually summer. Dig up your bulb and, using your hands, carefully pull the offsets away from the main bulb. Replant each new separate bulb in its own spot, following the general planting instructions above. It may take a couple years for the offset bulbs to mature and produce large blooms.

Although hyacinth seed propagation is possible, it’s not popular, especially among home gardeners. Hyacinths grown from seed take many years to mature enough to bloom and, when they finally do, chances are they’ll look and smell nothing like their parent plant. Unless you’re up for a challenge or interested in breeding your own hyacinth varieties, you’re better off with division propagation.

Overwintering Hyacinths

Hyacinths are very cold tolerant, hardy in USDA zones 4-8. This means they should be able to survive the winter in most parts of the US. But if you live in a colder zone, or if you have especially poorly draining soil, it’s a good idea to lift your hyacinth bulbs and store them inside for the winter, to protect them from rot or extreme temperatures.

Wait until the foliage has completely died back, then dig up the bulbs carefully, brush off the soil, and store them in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place (like a paper bag in a basement or garage).

If you're in a warm climate (zones 9 and above), you’ve got the opposite problem – your winters aren’t cold enough. Hyacinths need to experience a prolonged cold period every year in order to bloom. That means you have to artificially pre-chill the bulbs.

To pre-chill your bulbs, follow the steps above for digging up and storing them. Then, about 12-16 weeks before planting time, place your bulbs in a refrigerator (35-45 F or 2-7 C) and leave them there until planting time. If there’s fruit in your fridge (especially apples!) place your bulbs in a plastic bag. Fruit gives off ethylene gas, which can throw off flower development.

Common Hyacinth Problems

Hyacinth bulbs are generally problem-free. Rabbits tend to ignore them, and diseases are few and far between. The most common problems are environmental, with wet soil taking the lead. This can result in bulb rot, which leads to brown hyacinths and eventually dead plants. Make sure you plant hyacinth bulbs in well-draining soil, growing them in containers if necessary.

Lackluster flowering or bud drop can occur if the bulbs weren’t exposed to enough chill hours, like if you’ve had a particularly mild winter.

Flower displays will naturally decrease over the years, and you may never have a display as impressive as that first one. Revitalize your hyacinths by dividing them and by supplementing with some new bulbs each year.

Forcing Hyacinths Indoors

Forcing is the process of tricking plants to flower indoors out of season, and it’s a great way to brighten up your house during the depths of winter. Forcing hyacinths indoors is very popular, mostly because it’s so easy.

You can force hyacinths by buying pre-chilled bulbs, or by storing regular bulbs in the fridge for 12-16 weeks before planting.

Toward the end of this chilling period, yellow shoots should be starting to emerge from the bulbs. Once this happens, pot them up with the top of the bulbs resting above the soil line. Or, place them just touching the water line in one of these bulb forcing vases on Amazon.

Move your pot to a cool area (around 50 F or 10 C) with low light, and water regularly. After several days in this state, the shoots should begin turning green. This is when you move them to a warmer, sunny location. Keep them well watered. Your hyacinths should be flowering 3-4 weeks after they come out of cold storage.

Aftercare for Forced Bulbs

Once your forced hyacinths have bloomed indoors, they may begin to fade quickly. Treat them just like you would outdoor flowers – deadhead the flower stalk but leave the foliage until it fades naturally.

After the foliage is cut back, you can try re-planting it outdoors. Lift it from the soil, let it dry out, and store it in a cool dark place until fall. Then plant it in the garden following the regular planting guidelines.

Be aware that the year after being forced, a hyacinth may produce smaller, less showy flowers. Don’t panic! It’s just getting reacquainted with a natural blooming schedule. Take good care of it, and it should perform better next year.

Growing Hyacinths in Containers

Hyacinths grow beautifully in pots, making them a great choice for patios, balconies, or small gardens. Choose a container that’s at least 6 inches (15 cm) deep with good drainage holes. Plant bulbs close together but not touching, at the same depth as you would in the ground (4-6 inches or 10-15 cm).

Keep container-grown hyacinths in a sunny, sheltered location during their growing season. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry, but be careful not to overwater – containers dry out faster than garden beds, but they’re also more prone to rot if poorly drained. After blooming, treat the bulbs as you would in the ground: let the leaves die back naturally before removing or storing the bulbs.

Hyacinths as Houseplants

If you're growing a hyacinth indoors, chances are good that you've been given it as a gift, or you've forced it to bloom out of season. Either way, you should place it in a cool, bright spot – ideally near a sunny window but away from direct heat sources like radiators and vents.

Hyacinths are spring bloomers, which means they prefer cooler indoor temperatures (60-65 F or 15-18 C) and moderate humidity. Water indoor hyacinths lightly, keeping the soil barely moist.

A word of warning: Hyacinth bulbs can be irritating to the skin and are toxic if eaten, so keep them out of the reach of children and pets.

Another word of warning: Hyacinths are prized for their scent, but indoors they can be a little cloying or overwhelming. If it gets to be too much, there’s no shame in moving them outside to give yourself a break.

Hyacinth Companion Plants

Hyacinths bloom early in the spring, stick around as foliage, then slowly fade away. Grow them with these other plants for a seamless appearance through the whole season.

• Early Spring – Cluster hyacinths with other early spring bloomers like daffodils, tulips, and muscari for a gorgeous display.
• Late Spring – Cover up fading hyacinth foliage with low-growing, later blooming flowers like sweet alyssum, pansies, and violets.
• Summer – Fill in the space hyacinths leave behind with plants that bloom in the summer, like daylilies, coneflowers, and black-eyed Susans.

Frequently Asked Questions

Hyacinth Quiz

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Hyacinth Care Essentials

• Plant your hyacinth bulbs this fall with an Edward Tools bulb planter from Amazon
• Check your soil's quality and pH with the MySoil test kit, available on Amazon.
• Boost hyacinth bulbs with this phosphorous-packed bulb fertilizer from Bulb-tone on Amazon.
• Deadhead flowers and clear spent foliage with Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Home Depot.