A drip irrigation system is a great way to water raised beds. A drip system for raised beds gets water to the plant’s roots while keeping it off the leaves. An added bonus is you can grow more plants with less water.

Benefits of Drip Irrigation for Raised Beds

Drip irrigation involves a slow application of water to a plant's root area through individual water release mechanisms called emitters. This allows for a very focused application of water. No water is splashed on the foliage and, since the water is delivered under the soil, little is lost to evaporation. And watering so deeply encourages the roots to grow down. In addition, weeds growing between plants are deprived of water and die.

Choosing a Drip Irrigation System for Raised Beds

All drip irrigation systems have five different components:

• A water filter
• A pressure reducer
• A pressure gauge
• A header pipe
• Drip lines

The two primary types are a rigid drip system and a flexible T-tape system. The former is more expensive but lasts longer, while flexible drip tape, also called T-tape, is cheaper, but it’s only good for a season or two.

If you are just getting started with drip irrigation, consider buying a complete system from a supply company. They will sell you one based on how many containers you want to irrigate. As an alternative, retrofit your current raised beds with drip irrigation, using elbows and pipe and putting the drip lines at ground level.

Keep your maximum water pressure in mind. An irrigation drip system can not deliver more water than the supply and pressure permit. Also, be sure to design the system with your plants in mind.

How to Install Drip Irrigation in Raised Beds

Raised beds can also be retrofitted to use drip irrigation. It is just a matter of using elbows and various lengths of pipe to allow the drip lines to be at ground level between the beds.

Winterizing a Raised Bed Drip Irrigation System

If your winters get cold, you’ll need to winterize your irrigation system. If the temperatures are very cold, the water in the components of the system will freeze. Water expands and can split the tubes.

Drain the water out of the system through the mainline ends and the ends of the T-Tape. Then replace the line ends to keep dirt from getting in. Store the filter indoors. Flush the system when you start up again in the spring.

Overwinter ollas properly, and you can keep these watering pots from cracking in cold or fluctuating winter temperatures. An olla watering pot is a unique irrigation system that efficiently distributes water to plant roots in the soil. When you bury an olla pot in the ground and fill it with water, dry soil draws water from the pot, keeping plant roots hydrated.

Efficient and eco-friendly, ollas conserve water and reduce the time you need to spend watering, providing only as many fluids as your plants need. But if you don't take care during the winter months, these pots might fail or break. Find out how to overwinter ollas so they last for longer.

Can You Leave Olla Pots in the Ground Over Winter?

Burying a large olla in the garden takes some effort, so it would be nice if you could leave it in place for the dormant season. However, during the cold weather, olla watering systems might crack. The freeze-thaw cycle that is common in many regions is damaging to clay and terracotta.

Ollas are designed to be sturdy and durable, with thick walls. But because they are made of terracotta, they are vulnerable to changing temperatures. They are designed to withstand cold climates, but they are not completely invulnerable – so it's important that you take some precautions ahead of winter.

How to Overwinter Ollas The Right Way

Cold weather olla irrigation below certain temperatures isn't recommended. For most plants, winter watering is less of a regular requirement, anyway. The most important thing you can do to keep the pot safe over winter for use again in spring is to remove the water. Empty the olla about two weeks before the first frost of the season to be safe. Water that freezes in the pot will likely crack it.

The next step in helping to overwinter ollas is to provide some insulating cover to protect the pots from the coldest temperatures. Place a layer of straw over the top of it, or invert a bucket over it to keep some heat in the soil around the pot. If you have very cold winters, you should use both straw and a bucket.

It's also important to know your local climate. If you live somewhere with sudden changes in temperature, such as rapid freezing right after a rain, you should consider digging up your olla for winter. Taking steps to store containers for winter is the best way to ensure they will survive for the following year. Store ollas in a dry spot with temperatures that will remain above freezing.

How Long Do Olla Pots Last?

If you take good care of an olla pot, it should work for years. They are made with thick, durable walls. The trick is to make sure you have created safeguards for any sudden or dramatic dips in temperatures. So taking time to overwinter ollas will directly extend their life span and keep them functioning at their best.

To ensure these pots last as long as possible, you also need to keep them clean. Use the lid to keep debris out and remove anything that does fall into the pot. If it gets very dirty, and you can’t easily remove debris, dig out the olla and use a hose and scrub brush to clean it. If you have hard water, it's important to clean out the olla regularly to remove mineral buildup:

• Dig out your pot and fill it with a mixture of equal parts water and vinegar for cleaning.
• Let it sit with the solution inside, long enough for it to penetrate the walls of the olla. In low-humidity conditions, this might take a few hours. In high humidity, let it sit up to 24 hours.
• When you're happy the solution has had time to work its magic, scrub the inside and rinse the pot.
• Refill the pot with plain water, and let it sit for a few hours to a day. Once the walls have saturated with plain water to remove the vinegar, the olla is ready to go back into the ground.

An olla can be an efficient, easy way to water vegetable and flower beds. You can use these irrigation systems for xeriscape gardens, and you can use small ollas in container gardens. In many locations, you can leave the pots in place in winter, but apply common sense. Lifting and storing is best if your winters are very cold or if drastic temperature changes are forecast. This way, your ollas will still be at their best for next year's crops and ornamentals.

In these days of drought, heat spells, and water wise gardens, many gardeners are interested in efficiency when it comes to irrigation. Drip irrigation is commonly considered to be the most efficient way to water plants. But there’s something even better now: subsurface drip irrigation. It’s one step up - or, rather, one step down, providing low pressure water directly to each plant’s roots beneath the soil.

Underground Drip Irrigation

Subsurface drip irrigation - known as SDI - is an irrigation system that places a dripline of polyethylene tubing under the soil to release water to a plant’s root zone. Why is this good? The primary advantage of SDI is that the gardener is able to manage root zone irrigation more precisely. That means less evaporation loss and the possibility to spoon-feed nutrients.

An underground drip irrigation system also permits underground watering in fields that are shaped irregularly. In addition, it lets the gardener to meet the different water needs of different soils and crops.

How SDIs Work

The basic structure of an underground irrigation system is the dripline, buried in the soil. It must be placed below aeration depth, at least 6 to 12 inches below grade. An SDI dripline will have small holes called emitters spaced evenly along its length. The pressure of the water inside the tubing forces water out of the emitters drop by drop. Spacing between emitters depends on the type of soil and how it holds water.

The amount of water is regulated by the thickness of the dripline and the intervals of the emitters, usually placed every 8 to 24 inches (20-60 cm). You determine the appropriate spacing between by the soil’s water holding capacity.

The soil surface itself stays dry with subsurface drip irrigation, which means that neither the heat of the sun nor the wind will cause water loss. An SDI system that is properly installed, maintained and managed will be the most efficient irrigation system currently available.

Subsurface Drip Irrigation for Lawns

Subsurface irrigation systems are regularly used for agricultural crops, like corn, but what about plantings in a home landscape? Studies suggest that underground irrigation systems can work very well for turfgrass, one of the primary water guzzlers in American homes.

Every homeowner is well aware that their lush green lawn uses much more than its fair share of water. This is equally true for the grass on sports fields and golf courses. Installing an underground drip irrigation system can cut down on water use.

But note that this won’t be a great idea for renters. The SDI infrastructure is considered permanent, placed in the soil and used in place for years, even decades if properly maintained. Given the relatively high cost of the system, subsurface drip irrigation may not be economical to install for rented or leased residences.

Installation of SDI for Lawns

If you are wondering how to install subsurface drip irrigation for lawns, the best tip is to call in the specialists. In order to properly install a subsurface irrigation system, you need both specialized equipment and know-how.

Hiring a profession is expensive, but proper installation is critical to the effectiveness of the system. And there are many different steps to keep in mind that a DIY homeowner might miss, including calculating appropriate diameter of the dripline, distance between emitters, and proper procedures.

For example, you have to run water through the driplines very quickly after installing them. This is done to fully open the flow path to the soil. Failing this, soil can consolidate around the collapsed driplines, limiting water flow. And while installation is fairly quick in soil without rocks, rocky soil can make installation extremely difficult.

When it comes to irrigating your garden, a drip irrigation system can’t be beat. You can purchase a kit, buy separate pieces to assemble or try your hand at DIY drip irrigation for the garden. There are several types of DIY drip irrigation systems, none particularly challenging to assemble. Keep reading to learn how to make your own homemade slow drip irrigation system.

What is a Drip Irrigation System?

Drip irrigation consists of tubing placed above the ground with emitters that slowly drip water into the root system of a plant. The system can get more complex, but the general idea is incredibly simple.

Benefits to Drip Irrigation

There are a number of benefits to a drip or slow irrigation system. Only drip irrigation is 90% efficient compared to sprinklers which run at 65-75% efficiency. Certainly soaker hoses are also a method of delivering irrigation slowly, but the amount of water they deliver is unregulated.

Drip irrigation systems are efficient vehicles for providing water to plants, which means they save time, money and water. They water at the base allowing the rest of the plant to stay dry, which is important since wet plants foster diseases. Because the water only targets the roots of the plants, pathways between plants remain dry effectively suppressing weed growth. Drip systems also reduce runoff and evaporation.

Cons of Drip Systems

Drip irrigation systems do have some down sides. They generally require maintenance, emitters can become clogged using water high in minerals, and insects and rodents can nibble through the tubing, resulting in leaks.

The Simplest DIY Watering System

The simplest system to set up involves a 2 liter soda bottle and a drill. That’s it. This type of system is great as a temporary watering system if you are going on vacation. Use a clean, 2 liter soda bottle with the label removed. Upend the bottle and drill 5 small holes into the bottom of the bottle. Fill the bottle with water, cap it, and then place the drilled end atop the soil in a plant container.

You may also drill additional holes around the bottom half of the bottle which will allow this simple homemade slow drip system to provide more water to plants. In this case, bury the bottle halfway into the soil after filling it with water.

Bucket DIY Irrigation System

Another incredibly simple DIY watering system involves a 5 gallon bucket (19 L) along with ½ inch (1 cm) tubing, grommet, cinder blocks, stones or lumber, ⅝ inch (1.5 cm) valved coupler, cotton cloth or mesh screen, barbed ⅝ (1.5 cm) inch tee and a cord or sturdy string. Tools you will need are a drill, knife or box cutter.

Drill a hole in the bottom of the bucket large enough for the grommet to slide into but not so large it will leak. Insert the grommet, and then the coupler into the grommet. They should fit snugly.

Using the cinder blocks, stones or lumber, make a stand for the bucket. It should be around 40 inches (1 m) tall. Place the bucket atop the structure. Attach the tubing to the coupler, allowing the tubing to reach almost to the ground.

Attach the tee to the open end of the tubing. Up to 48 feet (14.6 m) of tubing can be attached per tee. Lay the tubing along the ground where you intend to irrigate plants. Secure the tubing with fabric staples so it doesn’t curl. Crimp the open ends of the tubing and tie off with rope or sturdy string.

Punch holes in the tubing: about 15 inches (38 cm) apart. Insert the emitters into these holes. Fill the bucket with water. Cover the bucket with cotton cloth or mesh screen and secure it with cord. This will keep the bucket free from detritus that can clog the system.

If an emitter seems to be clogged, open the tied end of the tubing and allow water to wash any debris out, then close the end again.

DIY Irrigation System Using Gravity

If you are living off the grid and have no access to piped water, then you likely already collect rainwater from the roof of your home. This water will be collected in rain barrels, large outdoor garbage cans or even buckets, often to then be stored in a larger storage tank.

Once you have stored water, all you will need is gravity and a few simple parts. Kits are available for the novice or you can choose to try your hand at a rain-fed irrigation system on your own. Ideally your storage tank will be situated on a slight slope above the garden area or you can build a stand.

At the very least you will need male/female connector, tubing, emitter, filter, drip tape, and plumber’s clay.

Additional DIY Irrigation System Ideas

Another way of creating a simple irrigation system is using PVC piping which can be used in raised beds, greenhouses, orchards, and the home garden. Life expectancy using PVC piping is 10-12 years, fertilizer can be introduced by using an injector, and the entire structure is sturdy. The only caveat is that the ground must be fairly flat for a PVC irrigation system to work.

If you want to create a DIY irrigation system using drip system components, it is best to map out exactly what you want the system to cover. This will help you with measurements for the drip lines themselves as well as how many emitters, connectors, end caps, etc you may need.

• Other than tubing or hose, you will need a leader hose, or non-perforated hose that will connect the system to the water faucet.
• You will also need a splitter. This attaches to the faucet allowing it to switch from the irrigation system to regular hose use.
• A timer is also a handy addition to a DIY irrigation system. They are inexpensive and can be found easily. They can even be run off your smartphone.
• Teflon tape is a must. It seals leaky connections.
• Lastly, you will need to plan to purchase enough mulch to lay 3 inches (7.6 cm) to help retain moisture at the drip line.

A drip irrigation system is the most efficient way to get water where it needs to be, as well as to reduce runoff. How long to water with drip irrigation though? It depends on whether you are watering trees, shrubs, annuals, or perennials. Also consider whether they are xeric or native plants, which will require less water. Here are tips on how often and how long to run your drip irrigation system. 

Learn How Long to Water Plants with Drip Irrigation

Once your system is set up, you can use these general guidelines to water your new and established plantings. Always check the soil to see if you are watering enough or too much. 

The question, “how often should I run drip irrigation,” is often asked. Newcomers to drip irrigation often overwater. Typically drip irrigation systems are set up to run one hour per week. Plants needing a moister soil may need to be watered twice per week. Porous soils such as sandy soils will also need more frequent watering because the water flows through the soil quickly. Xeric or native plants, which consume less water, may only need to be watered every two weeks. 

How Often and How Long to Run Drip Irrigation

How long to run drip irrigation for trees

A newly planted “whip” may require only 1 to 2 gallons (3.78 to 7.57 l.) per week, whereas a 2 inch (5 cm.) caliper newly planted tree may need 10 to 12 gallons (37.8 to 45 l.) per week. You can figure the amount for an established tree by multiplying its trunk diameter by 10 gallons (37.8 l.). For example, a tree with a 2 inch (5 cm.) diameter trunk will need approximately 20 gallons (75.7 l.) of water per week. 

How long to run drip irrigation for shrubs

A medium sized shrub, for example, one growing in a 5 gallon (18.9 l.) nursery pot, could use about 6 gallons weekly. A large sized shrub may need 12 gallons (45 l.) of water per week. If the shrub needs moister soil, you can add more emitters around the plant. Conversely, if the shrub is xeric, you can reduce the emitter flow size.

How long to run drip irrigation for vegetables

Start with 2 gallons (7.57 l.) per week and adjust if needed. 

How long to run drip irrigation for flowers

Initially, start with 2 gallons (7.57 l.) per week for annuals and perennials. Xeric perennials can be started with 1 gallon (3.78 l.) per week. 

It’s important to keep an eye on how well the plants are being watered and to the correct depth. Adjust the emitter sizes and number if needed, as well as the time watering. 

Preparing drip irrigation for winter is important to avoid damage to the system. You risk losing your investment in this handy gardening tool by letting it freeze and burst. Drip irrigation basics for winterizing are simple and worth the hour or so of your time to get the chore done. 

Step-By-Step Drip Irrigation System Winterization

Less than an hour of drip irrigation winter care is usually all it takes to ensure your system will be clean, intact, and ready to use again in spring. Ideally, you should go through these steps before the first frost. 

1. Flush the system with pressurized water to remove any debris. You may also want to flush it with chlorine to keep the system clean and kill and remove any algae buildup. You can flush again with water to remove the chlorine. 
2. Remove the drain plugs from the lowest points in the system to allow any remaining water to drain from the tubing.
3. If you suspect any water remains in lines or other components, use compressed air to blow it out. Remove end fittings first to avoid damaging them. 
4. If your system has control valves, remove them and store inside. They will not tolerate freezing. For other types of valves, you can keep them in place and open to drain. It’s best to keep them open during the winter but cover them with something to prevent critters from entering. 
5. Drain any pumps attached to the system that are above ground. These can hold on to water in low points and freeze.
6. You can leave any non-electrical components outside for winter, but for the best results, store everything inside in a safe place. Keep ends covered and tubing protected from rodents. 

Draining drip irrigation systems is another chore for the garden, but it’s an important maintenance step. If you do nothing else to protect your irrigation system, do this. Leaving water in it can lead to freezing and ruptures not just in the irrigation components, but also in main water lines. Take time to do this important chore. You’ll be glad you did come spring.

There are several different types of irrigation systems suitable for residential property, each with its own pros and cons. If you're a homeowner looking to install a new system or replace an existing one, it's important to consider the type of plants you wish to water and the composition of your soil. It's also prudent to review any local ordinances which may regulate your irrigation system design or use.

Residential Irrigation System Examples

The different irrigation types can be divided into two broad categories: Those which send water droplets into the air and those which deliver at ground level. Within each category, an irrigation system design can be simple or complex, manual or automatic and can be quite affordable or more costly. Here are several basic irrigation system examples:

Above-Ground Sprinklers – Perhaps the least expensive and easiest to set-up, these sprinklers are the type you attach to the end of a hose and drag to the area you wish to water. They are versatile and can effectively water lawns, groundcover or a densely planted garden area. Above-ground sprinklers are best suited for climates which only experience periodic dry spells. 

Con: Water wastage is the major drawback to those types of irrigation systems which deliver airborne water. These systems lose efficiency due to evaporation and droplets landing on hard surfaces. 

In-Ground Sprinklers – This irrigation system designed for delivering airborne water relies on underground pipes and may require professional installation. Most of these systems are totally automated and can be programmed to water where, when and how much the homeowner desires. An automated in-ground sprinkler system may be a good choice for watering lawns in drought-prone regions.

Con: In addition to water wastage, in-ground sprinkler systems can be fairly expensive to install and repair. They also require routine maintenance, particularly in climates where winter temps drop below freezing. 

Drip – With this irrigation system design, solid hose or underground pipe is connected to a series of emitters which deliver a slow trickle of water to precise locations at the base of plants. This can be a healthier method of water delivery, as it doesn't wet the foliage or splash soil-borne pathogens onto the plant. Of the different irrigation types, drip systems are the most water conservative. 

Cons: Like in-ground sprinklers, drip irrigation is more costly to install. These systems do require maintenance. A clean water supply is also essential to avoid clogging the emitters. 

Soaker Hose – Another one of the ground-delivery types of irrigation, soaker hoses are both versatile and economical. These perforated sections of flexible hose can be place on top of the ground or buried under the mulch. Soaker hoses can be used temporarily in the vegetable garden or around a newly planted tree. In water-regulated municipalities, the perforated hose can also be cut into sections and connected with standard garden hose to deliver a more precise watering solution. 

Cons: A soaker hose seeps water along its entire length, including the spaces between plants. This can encourage weeds and wastes water. Creating a more permanent, water-conserving irrigation system using sections of perforated hose alternated with solid hose can solve these problems, but it’s time-consuming and costly to set up. Soaker hoses also tend to lose pressure near the end of the run and they often distribute water unevenly on slopes.

Watering is one of the most, if not the most, important chores in the garden. You likely do it every day, so why not spend some time and a little money to get the best watering system for plants in your garden? 

Why Use Garden Watering Systems

Of course, you can always simply use the hose and a watering can to take care of your garden, but unless you have just a small balcony container garden, this labor-intensive method gets old fast. Choosing a better watering system is important for several reasons: 

• It will save you time on this daily or near daily chore. 
• The right system may save you money too, by watering more efficiently. 
• You can stop breaking your back moving a hose around the garden. 
• An irrigation system can be customized to match your garden’s exact water needs. 

How to Choose an Irrigation System

The best watering method for your garden is one that balances cost, efficiency, and effectiveness. It needs to water your plants without wasting water and without costing more than you can afford. Here are some options: 

Sprinklers. For the low-budget garden, a sprinkler is a cheap and easy solution. You’ll still need to lug it around the yard, but it’s still easier and faster than spending time standing with a hose. 

In-ground sprinklers. If you have the budget for it, in-ground sprinklers make watering easy. Turn the system on and off when you want or put it on a timer. A downside to this option is that it doesn’t allow much flexibility in making landscaping changes without an expensive rearrangement of the system. 

Soaker hoses. This is another lower-budget option. A soaker hose has little holes in it. You lay the hose strategically in beds and the water drips out and soaks the soil. This is a good choice if you are interested in saving water. You won’t lose a lot to evaporation. 

Drip irrigation. A drip irrigation system is similar to soaker hoses but is a more permanent installation. It costs more than soaker hoses but less than an in-ground sprinkler system.

Rain barrels. For the most eco-friendly watering, try a rain barrel. It allows you to collect and use rainwater, saving on city or well water. You will still need a method for using that water to irrigate your garden, though.

An irrigation system helps to conserve water which, in turn, saves you money. Installing an irrigation system also results in healthier plants by allowing the gardener to water deeply and less often, which encourages plant growth. What are some ways to put in irrigation? Irrigation installation can be done by the pros or do it yourself. It may be a sprinkler or drip irrigation system or a combination. Read on to learn how to install garden irrigation.

Drip Irrigation Installation

Drip or micro-irrigation is an irrigation method that applies water slowly to individual plants. Drip systems are fairly easy to set up yourself and require four easy steps: laying out the irrigation grid, assembling the hoses, installing tees, and then installing emitters and feed lines.

When installing a drip irrigation system, the first thing to do is lay out a grid with the hoses so you can get an idea of how far apart they need to be. Each hose gets an emitter that is attached to plastic tubing that runs from the main hose to the plants. Emitters should be a foot apart (31 cm.) in sandy soil, 18 inches (46 cm.) apart in loamy, and 24 inches (61 cm.) in clay soils.

To keep groundwater from backing up into your tap water, install a backflow preventer valve. Also, attach a hose adapter to fit the diameter of the hose. Connect the main line to the backflow preventer and run it to the garden.

Punch holes according to the above lengths in the line and place the emitters in position. Plug the ends of the lines with caps and band clamps.

That’s how to install drip irrigation, and it’s really quite simple to do yourself.

How to Install Garden Irrigation Sprinkler System

If you want to put in irrigation to cover the entire landscape including turf, installing an irrigation system gets a bit more complex. First, you need a schematic of the landscape. You can either draw one yourself or have a pro do it. Include trees and other obstacles.

Check your water pressure by attaching a pressure gauge to the outdoor faucet. Then remove the gauge and fill an empty 5-gallon (19 L.) bucket using the faucet. Time how long it takes for the bucket to fill and then calculate the flow rate in gallons per minute. This will tell you what type of sprinkler heads you will need. Be sure to look at coverage options (spray pattern) as you choose.

Using your map, plot the course of the irrigation system using as few turns as possible. Extra turns reduce the water pressure. For large areas, use multiple loops instead of a single stretch. Mark the placement of the sprinkler heads on your map making sure to allow a bit of overlap to ensure the radius of each head covers the full area. Using spray paint or flags, mark the location of the system in your yard or garden.

Assemble the zone valve based on the number of loops you have incorporated in your irrigation installation. Consult the instructions to ensure the valves are facing the correct way. The valve assembly will connect to a timer and pipes that connect to each valve.

Now it’s time to dig. Dig trenches that are deep enough that the sprinkler heads will be flush with the ground. Also, dig an area near the water faucet for the zone valve assembly. Lay the pipe or hoses for the system and install the sprinkler heads according to your plant.

Shut both the water and power off to your home if you want to connect the faucet and connecting pipe to the valve assembly. Install an external control box for the irrigation system. If necessary, run a wire from the breaker box.

Connect the valve assembly to the faucet and then connect the valve wires to the control box. Turn on the power and water and test the irrigation system. Backfill the trenches with soil once you have confirmed there are no leaks. Install a cover over the valve assembly.

Full DIY sprinkler system installation is not as simple as installing drip lines, but it can be done and is a real cost saver. 

Upgrading to smart irrigation systems has been proven to reduce water usage while maintaining that beautiful green lawn so many homeowners love. So, what is smart irrigation and how does a smart watering system work? More importantly, can smart watering technology be installed on an existing system?

How Does a Smart Watering System Work?

A programmable irrigation system allows homeowners and property managers to set a timer which automatically turns lawn sprinklers on and off. These systems have overrides which can prevent the sprinklers from running when nature takes over the job of watering the lawn, but these overrides must be operated manually.

Not so with smart irrigation! Smart irrigation advantages include the ability to monitor either local weather conditions or the actual ground moisture level. Thus, smart irrigation systems automatically adjust watering schedules according to the actual needs of the lawn.

In most cases, smart watering technology can be installed on existing irrigation systems and will cut water usage by 20 to 40 percent. Although pricey, these systems can pay for themselves in a few short years by lowering water bills.

The best part? Smart irrigation systems link to the home or office WiFi and can be remotely controlled with a smart device. No more having to remember to turn the sprinkler system on or off before leaving home in the morning.

Using Smart Watering Technology 

Smart watering technology can be installed on existing underground irrigation systems by swapping out the current controller for a smart one. In some cases, add-on weather or moisture-based sensors can be used with existing controllers and systems, thus saving the cost of purchasing a new controller.

Before purchasing this technology, homeowners and property managers are advised to do their homework to ensure smart controllers and sensors are compatible with existing irrigation systems as well as smart devices. Additionally, they will need to decide between weather-based sensors or moisture-based ones.

Evapotranspiration controllers (weather-based sensors) use local weather data to regulate sprinkler run times. These types of sensors either access publicly available local weather data via WiFi or take on-site weather measurements. Temperature, wind, solar radiation, and humidity readings are then used to calculate watering needs.

Soil-moisture technology uses probes or sensors inserted into the yard to measure actual soil moisture levels. Depending upon the type of sensor installed, these systems can either suspend the next watering cycle when readings indicate sufficient soil moisture or can be set as an on-demand system. The latter type of sensor reads both upper and lower moisture thresholds and the controller will automatically turn on the sprinklers to maintain water levels between the two readings.

Window boxes may be excellent decorative accents filled with a profusion of blooms or a means of gaining garden space when none is available. In either case, consistent window box watering is key to healthy plants, which is where a self-watering window box system comes into play. Irrigation for window boxes with the installation of a DIY window box irrigation will keep your plants watered even when you’re out of town.

Window Box Watering

One of the reasons window box watering can be such a pain is that the containers by nature are not particularly deep, meaning they dry out more rapidly than plants growing in the ground. This also means remembering to water more frequently which, while optimal, isn’t always the case. A self-watering window box system on a timer will remember to irrigate the plants for you.

Window boxes are sometimes difficult to keep consistently watered due to their placement. Other times window boxes are just plain difficult to get to but installing a DIY drip system solves that problem.

DIY Window Box Irrigation

Drip irrigation systems for window boxes are designed to allow water to slowly drip into the root system of plants. This slow watering is highly efficient and allows the foliage to remain dry.

Drip systems designed for smaller spaces can be easily found at the local hardware store or online. They generally come with tubing, emitters, and everything else needed, although they may or may not come with a timer, or you can buy everything you need separately.

If you decide a DIY window box irrigation system is the way to go, you will need to consider a few things before purchasing your materials.

Decide how many boxes you wish to irrigate with the self-watering window box system. Also, how much tubing you will need, this will require measuring from the water source through each window box that will be irrigated.

Figure out if you will need to go in different directions. If so, you will need a “tee” fitting to direct your mainline tubing. Also, how many places will the mainline tubing end? You will need end caps for each of those places.

You will need to know if there will be any 90-degree turns as well. The mainline tubing would kink if you tried to make it turn sharply so instead you will need elbow fittings for each turn.

Another Method of Irrigation for Window Boxes

Lastly, if a window box watering system seems too complex, you can always resort to another method of irrigation for window boxes. Cut the bottom off of an empty plastic soda bottle. For aesthetic purposes, remove the label.

Place the lid on the cut soda bottle. Make four to six holes in the lid. Submerge the bottle in the soil of the window box to hide it a bit but leave the cut end out of the soil. Fill with water and allow the slow drip to irrigate the window box.

The number of bottles you should use to self-water depends on the size of the window box but certainly there should be one at either end as well as in the middle of the box. Refill the bottles regularly.

Growing grapevines at home can be an exciting endeavor for many gardeners. From planting to harvest, the process of promoting healthy growth can be quite elaborate. To produce the best crop possible, those wishing to grow grapes will need to carefully consider garden routines such as pruning and fertilization. Irrigation procedures are also a vital aspect. Learning more about properly irrigating grapes can promote more productive harvests each season.

How Much Water Do Grapes Need?

As with any other planting, watering grapes and maintaining adequate moisture levels will directly impact plant health. Grapevine irrigation can vary depending upon the conditions in each growing zone. However, there are some key aspects on which to focus.

When choosing how and when to water grapevines, it will be important to maintain balance. Ideally, the soil should remain adequately moist throughout the entire growing season. This means that water should be available to the plants’ roots at any time.

Drought stress can manifest in grapevines in a wide variety of ways. First, growers may observe the wilting of leaves or tendrils of the plant. If the need for water is too severe, the vines’ flowers may also drop and result in the uneven formation of clusters. Signs of too little water may also include the yellowing of leaves, as well as fruit drop.

Professional grape growers often use periods of water stress to encourage or produce the desired qualities in the mature fruit. However, these techniques will require great familiarity with the cultivar being grown and with the growth timing of each grape plant. For this reason, it is best that most home growers do not attempt these water stress techniques.

Though the grapevines will require consistent moisture, it is important to note that this does not mean that the soil should be excessively wet. Excessively wet soils that are the result of over-irrigation or poor drainage will promote the decline of the plant. These soil conditions can promote root rot of the plants, increase the likelihood of disease in the vines, and cause the loss of soil nutrients.

In irrigating grapes, make certain to avoid overhead spraying. Watering in this manner can promote the development of fungal and bacterial diseases. For many, drip irrigation hoses, which deliver water directly to the root zone, are the best option. Though the need for irrigation will vary depending upon rainfall, most plantings will require about 1 inch (2.5 cm.) of water each week of the growing season.

Blackberries are a sometimes overlooked berry. In some areas of the country, they grow unbidden and as vigorous as weeds. In other regions, the sweet nectar of the berry is sought after, cultivated and the fruit eagerly anticipated. While easy to grow, the succulent qualities of the berries are reliant on knowing when to water blackberry vines.

Watering blackberries sufficiently will yield the largest, juiciest fruit. So when it comes to blackberry irrigation, how much water do blackberries need?

When to Water Blackberry Vines

If you live in an area with average rainfall, you probably won’t need to water blackberries after the first growing year once they have been established. The first year of growth, however, is another matter.

When watering blackberries, always water during the day and water at the base of the plants to minimize fungal disease. During the growing season, blackberry plants should be kept consistently moist from mid-May through October.

How Much Water do Blackberries Need?

When it comes to blackberry irrigation, plants need to be kept consistently moist after the first 2-3 weeks from planting. This means that the top inch or so (2.5 cm.) of soil should be kept moist for the first few weeks.

Thereafter, give the plants 1-2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm.) of water per week during the growing season and up to 4 inches (10 cm.) per week during harvest season. Keep in mind that blackberry plants are shallow-rooted so the root system isn’t diving down into the soil for moisture; it all needs to be at the surface.

That said, while the plants should be kept consistently moist, do not allow the soil to become sodden which can result in fungal root diseases.

Hosta plants are easily one of the most popular perennials for the home landscape. Thriving in both full and partial shade conditions, hostas can add both color and texture to flower borders. These easy-to-grow plants are an ideal addition to new and established beds.

With minimal care, home gardeners are able to keep their hostas looking lush and beautiful. However, there are some maintenance aspects that will be a necessity. Establishing a consistent irrigation routine will be key in keeping hostas looking their best all summer long. Read on for more info on hosta water needs.

How Much Water Do Hostas Need?

When it comes to growing hosta, watering requirements will vary depending upon the conditions in the garden and the time of year. The process of watering a hosta plant will change from winter to summer. In growing hosta, watering needs reach their peak during the hottest parts of the summer season and wane as the weather begins to cool and plants go dormant in the fall.

Hosta irrigation is essential, as it will ensure that the plants grow large and remain healthy. These plants require soil that's well-draining but maintains consistent moisture levels at all times. This can be achieved through weekly watering using soaker hoses or drip irrigation systems.

Like many perennial plants, watering a hosta deeply is imperative – on average, they require about an inch (2.5 cm.) of water each week. By establishing a weekly watering schedule, plants can develop a more robust root system that is better able to access water deep in the soil.

During summers that are especially hot and dry, hosta plants may begin to turn brown and die. Although the process of going dormant in extremely dry conditions is normal, it is not ideal. Severe cases of drought can lead to dry rot and the ultimate loss of the hosta plants. Irrigation is key in avoiding these potential issues.

Gardeners should continue to water hosta plants until the first frost date has arrived. Cooler temperatures will signal to the hosta plants that it is time to move into winter dormancy. Watering throughout the winter is usually not suggested, with the exception of those living in the driest parts of the country without rain or snowfall.

People can’t live very long without water, and your mature trees can’t either. Since trees can’t speak up to let you know when they are thirsty, it’s a gardener’s job to provide sufficient tree irrigation to help them thrive. How much water do trees need? Irrigating trees is not an exact science, but if you follow a few general guidelines about watering trees, you’ll do just fine. Read on for information on how to water a tree as well as basic tree irrigation guidelines.

How to Water a Tree

It pays to learn how to water a tree, including where to put the water, what time of day you should be irrigating trees, and how much water is necessary. Although everyone knows that young, newly planted trees require regular water, it’s easy to overlook the needs of mature trees.

The idea of watering trees is to get moisture into the soil that a tree’s roots can access. That means that you need to be irrigating the soil above the tree roots. This is usually the area under the tree canopy. A tree with surface roots will require less water than a tree with deep roots.

Irrigate your tree in the area under the canopy. That’s where most of the water should go. However, watering trees just beyond the canopy edges is also good since it can encourage a tree to develop longer roots. Don’t water in the heat of the day since evaporation is a given.

How Often to Water Trees?

For best tree irrigation practices, you need to give the tree adequate water at regular intervals. The goal is to prevent the tree from suffering from significant plant water stress.

On the other hand, overwatering is one of the primary killers of trees. This can be caused by giving a tree too much water or irrigating a tree too often, but it can also result from poor drainage around the tree. So check drainage before you develop an irrigation plan.

In times of drought, water mature trees once a week at a minimum. You can also determine whether a tree requires water by poking a sharp stick or long tool into the ground. If it goes in easily, the tree doesn’t need water. If it doesn’t, the soil is dry and the tree requires water.

How Much Water Do Trees Need?

How much water do trees need to ensure the maximum plant growth and vitality? This depends on various factors. One factor is the height and breadth of the tree. Bigger trees need more water.

Another factor is the weather. Since hot weather causes water to evaporate both in the soil and from tree foliage, you want to water more in summer than in cooler seasons. The type of tree is also important since some trees require less water than others.

In general, you should irrigate deeply and slowly, providing enough water to penetrate at least the top 12 inches (30.5 cm.) of soil. Soaker hoses work well for this. If the site is level, use a basin placed at the tree’s dripline as a watering gauge tool.

How much water do strawberries need? How can you learn about watering strawberries? The key is to provide enough moisture, but never too much. Soggy soil is always worse than slightly dry conditions. Read on to learn more specific information about strawberry irrigation.

Strawberry Water Needs

Strawberries tend to dry out fairly quickly because they are shallow-rooted plants with roots that exist mostly in the top 3 inches (8 cm.) of soil.

Generally, there is no need to water strawberries if your climate receives around 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5-4 cm.) of rainfall per week. In drier climates, you’ll have to provide supplemental moisture, especially during hot, dry weather.

As a general rule, figure about an inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week, although you may need to increase that amount to as much as 2.5 inches (6 cm.) during hot, dry summer weather.

How do you know it’s time to water? It’s important to check the soil before you irrigate, which is easy to do by inserting a trowel or wooden stick into the soil. Wait a few days and check again if the top 2 inches (5 cm.) of soil is dry to the touch.

Keep in mind that heavy, clay-based soil may need a little less water, while sandy, fast-draining soil may need more frequent irrigation.

How to Water Strawberries

Avoid overhead sprinklers when watering strawberries. Instead, use a drip irrigation system or a soaker hose at least 2 inches (5 cm.) from the plants. It’s important to keep the leaves as dry as possible, as strawberries are susceptible to rot in soggy conditions. Alternatively, you can let a garden hose trickle near the base of the plants.

Early morning is the best time for effective strawberry irrigation. This way, the plants have all day to dry before evening.

If you’re growing strawberries in containers, check the moisture daily; the potting mix will dry out quickly, especially during warm weather.

It’s always better to water a little less than to overwater and create unhealthy, waterlogged soil.

A layer of about 2 inches (5 cm.) of mulch for strawberries, such as straw or chopped leaves, will control weeds, conserve moisture, and prevent water from splashing on the leaves. You may need to limit mulch, however, if slugs are a problem. Also, be careful not to let mulch pile up directly on the stems, as damp mulch may promote rot and other moisture-related plant diseases.

Each year we look forward to the beautiful, fragrant cherry blossoms which seem to scream, “spring has finally come!” However, if the previous year was extremely dry or drought-like, we may find our spring cherry blossom display lacking. Likewise, an extremely wet growing season can also cause significant problems with cherry trees. Cherry trees can be very particular about their watering needs; too much or too little water can have drastic effects on the tree. Continue reading to learn how to water a cherry tree.

About Cherry Tree Irrigation

Cherry trees grow wild throughout much of the United States. In the wild, they easily establish in sandy-loam or even rocky soils but struggle in heavy clay soils. This is true for the home garden and orchards as well. Cherry trees require excellent draining soil to grow, blossom, and fruit properly. If soil is too dry or cherry trees experience drought stress, leaves can curl, wilt, and drop. Drought stress can also cause cherry trees to produce less blossoms and fruit or lead to stunted tree growth. On the other hand, waterlogged soils or over-irrigation can lead to all sorts of nasty fungal diseases and cankers. Too much water can also suffocate cherry tree roots, causing stunted trees that don’t bloom or set fruit and can ultimately lead to plant death. More cherry trees die from too much water than too little. That’s why learning more about cherry tree watering is so important.

Tips for Watering Cherry Trees

When planting a new cherry tree, it is important to understand cherry water needs to get the tree off to a good start. Prepare the site with soil amendments to ensure the soil drains well but will not be too dry. After planting, watering cherry trees properly their first year is extremely important. They should be watered the first week every other day, deeply; the second week they can be watered deeply two to three times; and after the second week, water cherry trees thoroughly once a week for the rest of the first season. Adjust watering as needed in times of drought or heavy rainfall. Keeping weeds pulled around the base of cherry trees will help ensure that the roots get the water, not the weeds. Putting mulch, like wood chips, around the cherry tree root zone will also help retain soil moisture. Established cherry trees rarely need to be watered. In your region, if you receive at least an inch (2.5 cm.) of rain every ten days, your cherry trees should be receiving adequate water. However, in times of drought, it is important to provide them with some extra water. The best way to do this is to place the hose end directly on the soil above the root zone, then let the water run at a slow trickle or light stream for about 20 minutes. Make sure all the soil around the root zone is thoroughly wet. You can also use a soaker hose. The slow stream of water gives the roots time to soak up the water and prevents wasted water from runoff. If drought persists, repeat this process every seven to ten days.

As gardeners, sometimes we simply cannot resist trying unique and unusual plants. If you live in a tropical region, you may have tried growing the perennial grass sugarcane, and probably realized it can be a water hog. Sugarcane water requirements is an important aspect of meeting the proper growth and care of your plants. Read on to learn about watering sugarcane plants.

Sugarcane Water Needs

Sugarcane, or Saccharum, is a perennial grass that requires a long growing season and regular sugarcane irrigation. The plant also requires the heat and humidity of the tropics to produce the sweet sap that sugar is derived from. Providing enough, but not too much, water is oftentimes a struggle for sugarcane growers. If sugarcane water needs are not properly met, it can result in stunted plants, improper seed germination and natural propagation, decreased amount of sap in plants, and loss of yield to sugarcane crops. Likewise, too much water can result in fungal diseases and rots, decreased sugar yields, leaching of nutrients, and generally unhealthy sugarcane plants.

How to Water Sugarcane Plants

Proper sugarcane irrigation depends on climatic conditions in your region as well as the type of soil, where grown (i.e. in ground or container), and method of watering used. In general, you’ll want to provide sugarcane with about 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) of water each week to maintain adequate soil moisture. This, of course, may increase in periods of excessively hot or dry weather. Container-grown plants may also require additional watering than those in the ground. Overhead watering is not typically encouraged, as this could lead to wet foliage that is prone to fungal issues. Container plantings or small patches of sugarcane may be hand watered at the base of the plant as needed. Larger areas, however, will most often benefit from watering the area with a soaker hose or drip irrigation.

Firebush, native to the southern United States and as far south as Argentina, is an eye-catching tropical shrub, appreciated for its blazing reddish orange blooms and attractive foliage. How much water does firebush need? This hardy hummingbird magnet is practically bulletproof once established and tends to be relatively drought tolerant, but it does regular irrigation, especially during the early years. Keep reading and we’ll discuss firebush water requirements.

About Firebush Watering

As a general rule, water firebush at least once every week until the plant has been in your garden for a full year. If you live in an extremely hot climate, firebush water requirements may be higher during the intense heat of summer, especially for shrubs planted in full sunlight. Watering a firebush after the first year? Firebush watering requirements decrease substantially after the first year, but regular irrigation is still a must for a healthy plant. In most climates a deep watering every couple of weeks in the absence of rain is adequate. Again, more frequent irrigation may be needed if summer weather is hot and dry or windy. Be sure to allow plenty of time for the top 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) of soil to dry out between each watering, but don’t allow it to become bone dry. Keep in mind that firebush needs regular irrigation, but soggy, poorly drained soil can kill the plant.

Firebush Irrigation Tips

Be sure your firebush is planted in well-draining soil. Firebush watering should be done slowly and deeply using a garden hose or drip irrigation system at the base of the plant. Deep watering will promote long roots and a healthier, drought-tolerant shrub. Spread a generous layer of mulch such as bark chips or pine needles around the tree to minimize evaporation. However, don’t allow the mulch to mound against the trunk. Replenish the mulch as it decomposes or blows away. (Be sure to add a fresh layer before temperatures drop in autumn.)

Indigo is one of the oldest cultivated plants, used for centuries and longer to make a beautiful blue dye. Whether you are growing indigo in your garden to make the dye or just to enjoy the pretty pink flowers and shrub growth habit, indigo irrigation requirements are important to understand to help it thrive.

About True Indigo Water Needs

There are false indigo plants, but true indigo is Indigofera tinctoria. It grows best and as a perennial in zones 9 and up; in colder areas you can grow it as an annual. Indigo is a small or medium shrub, growing to about 5 feet (1.5 m.) tall. You can trim it to shape into a pretty flowering shrub that produces pinkish purple blooms. The dye comes from the leaves. Indigo plant watering is important to consider, not just for the shrub to grow well and thrive, but also for dye production. Make sure your plant gets enough water and at the right frequency for it to be healthy but pay particular attention to water if you are going to be harvesting leaves for dye.

How to Water Indigo Plants

If you are not harvesting leaves to make dye, watering needs for indigo are pretty simple. In fact, when you have a well-established plant, it will be pretty tough in the face of drought. Begin by watering every couple of days in the growing season to get your shrub established. The ideal conditions for the soil are evenly moist, so don’t let it dry out too much. Be sure the soil drains well. You can water less in the winter. Watering indigo plants becomes more important if you are making dye. Studies have shown that the frequency of watering can impact how much dye you get from an indigo plant. For instance, yields of dye were higher when indigo bushes were watered every one week as compared to irrigating every two weeks. Yield was also found to be higher when watering stopped one week before harvesting the leaves as compared to ten days or longer. If you are growing indigo to enjoy a pretty shrub, water regularly in the growing season until it is established and after that only when it hasn’t rained a lot. For harvesting dye, even when established, continue to water your indigo at least once a week.

A garden that stays green without constant tending is a real score. A plastic bottle plant waterer is a quick, thrifty way to keep roots wet, ideal for hectic days or a weekend away. Whether it’s a tomato patch or a single porch pot, this trick keeps plants happy.

No need for pricey watering systems – this homemade job is free and works great for small setups. A DIY approach with bottles keeps things simple, effective, and good for the earth. It’s a solid fit for any gardener looking to save effort and still grow strong plants. It slots into sharp plant care habits, like those found in reliable watering systems, getting water right where it’s needed. Here’s how to turn old bottles into a nifty irrigation tool.

Why this Hack's Worth It

Fancy irrigation setups can drain your wallet and eat a whole Saturday. A DIY plant self watering system with old bottles is dead simple and costs nothing. It drips water straight to the roots, skipping waste and keeping plants content – even if you’re gone for a couple days.

Using old plastic bottles for irrigation is a solid win for the planet. Billions get tossed every year, so giving a few a new job feels right. It’s good for veggies or potted herbs, no extra work needed.

What You Need

Most of this is likely in your kitchen. You’re going to want to start by grabbing a plastic bottle – 2 liters for the bigger plants like squash, smaller for herbs. Find a tiny nail or tiny drill bit, some razor sharp scissors, and maybe an old sock or nylon scrap for a filter. A marker is pretty handy for spotting where holes will go.

Match the bottle to the plant’s thirst. Tomatoes drink heavy, so go big; basil or seedlings are fine with a 500ml. Pick the right size, and the job is nearly half done.

Putting it Together, Step by Step

1. Prepare Your Bottle – Start with a clean bottle. Always remember to scrub out any leftover juice or soda to keep the water pure. Let it dry so nothing funky grows inside. A good rinse with soapy water does the trick just fine, followed by a good air drying to avoid any moisture buildup.
2. Poke the Holes – Heat a nail over a flame until it’s hot, or use a 1mm drill bit to make 2 or 3 tiny holes in the bottle’s bottom or lower sides. Pinhead size is the best for a really slow drip – too big, and the soil is a wet mess. Space the holes evenly for a more consistent flow, and then you can test it with water to see if the drip is right before installing it.
3. Install a Filter – For better flow, you could slip a sock or nylon over the mouth of the bottle before capping to block dirt clogs. This will act just like a filter. It will prevent soil particles from sneaking in and blocking up the whole system. Then, you can secure it with a rubber band if needed to keep it in place.
4. Create a Refill Funnel – Cut off the bottom of another bottle to make a quick refill funnel for an easier time. Use a sharp knife or shears like these Fiskars from Amazon to make a clean cut, about an inch from the base, to create an opening that’s easy to pour into without spilling it all over the place.
5. Bury and Fill – You’ll dig a hole 4 inches deep near the plant’s roots, and bury the bottle upright up to its neck, keeping it straight. Set it a little ways away from the stem so you avoid drowning roots. Pack all of the soil gently around it to hold steady, then fill it up with your funnel.

Tuning the Flow

Nailing the drip takes a bit of tweaking. Small holes or a tight cap slow it down; bigger ones or a loose cap speed it up. Fill the bottle and check how fast the dirt wets. Aim for a slow seep, not a swamp.

Test the soil with a finger or a 4-in-1 soil meter, like this one from Amazon. Too wet? Tighten the cap some. Too dry? Loosen it or add a hole. Hot days need more flow; rainy ones can stay where they are. Adjust to what the plants want, and they’ll stay green.

Keeping it Going

A plastic bottle plant waterer needs a quick check now and then. Look at the holes weekly – dirt or gunk can plug them after rain. A toothpick clears them fast. Swap a old gross filter for a clean one to keep water flowing right.

Once a month, pull the bottle, rinse it, and stick it back. That keeps mold away and water clean. In winter, stash bottles inside so they don’t crack. Dry spots need more refills. Wet seasons need less. A glance at the plants shows what’s up.

Next time you finish a bottle, hang onto it. Irrigation with plastic bottles is gardener’s tool for keeping plants happy with no hassle.

Having worked in landscape design, installation, and plant sales for many years, I have watered many, many plants. When asked what I do for a living, I sometimes joke and say, “I’m Mother Nature at a garden center.” While I do many things at work, like designing landscapes and displays and working with customers, perhaps the most important thing I do is making sure every plant we have in stock has everything it needs to grow to its full potential. A plant’s main need is water, especially container stock, which can dry out quickly. For many years, along with co-workers, I would water each individual plant with a hose and rain wand. Yes, it really is as time consuming as it sounds. Then four years ago, I started working for a landscape company/garden center with a drip irrigation system that waters all the tree and shrubs. While this may sound like a huge part of my workload was eliminated, drip irrigation has its own set of challenges and drawbacks. Continue reading to learn more about drip irrigation problems and solutions.

Problems with Drip Irrigation

Whether in a garden center or a home landscape, hand watering each individual plant based on its needs that day is probably the best way to water. By hand watering, you are forced to get up close to each plant; therefore, you’re able to adjust each plant’s watering to its specific need. You can give a dry, wilting plant extra water or skip a plant that prefers to stay on the dryer side. Most of us just don't have the time for this slow, thorough watering process. Sprinkler or drip irrigation systems allow you to save time by watering large areas of plants all at once. However, sprinklers don’t consider individual plant watering needs; for example, the sprinkler that keeps your lawn lush and green is probably not providing trees and shrubs in the area with the deep watering they need to develop strong, deep roots. Turf grasses have different root structures and watering needs than larger plants. Also, sprinklers often get more water on the foliage than in the root zone. Wet foliage can cause pest and fungal problems, like black spot and powdery mildew. Drip irrigation systems water individual plants directly at their root zone, eliminating a lot of fungal issues and wasted water. However, these drip irrigation systems still water every plant the same, regardless of individual needs. Drip irrigation can also be an unsightly mess of hoses and tubes running throughout the garden. These hoses can get clogged by debris, salt build up, and algae, so if they are covered and hidden by mulch, it’s hard to check if they are running properly and fix any clogs. Hoses that are exposed can be damaged by rabbits, pets, children, or gardening tools. I have replaced many hoses that were chewed on by rabbits. When the black hoses of drip irrigation systems are left exposed to the sun, they can heat up the water and basically cook the plants roots.

Drip Irrigation Tips

Rainbird and other companies that specialize in drip irrigation systems have all sorts of special solutions for drip irrigation problems.

• They have timers that can be set so even if you're away, you can trust that your plants have been watered.
• They have different nozzles that can control water flow so that plants like succulents can get less water, while plants with higher water needs can get more.
• They have sensors that tell the system if it’s raining out so it will not run.
• They also have sensors that tell the system if water is pooling up around the nozzles.

However, most people will start out with a less expensive, basic drip irrigation system. Drip irrigation systems can help you water tough areas, like slopes where run off and erosion can happen from other watering methods. Drip irrigation can be set to give these areas a slow penetrating soak or can be set to deliver water in bursts that can be soaked in before the next burst. Most problems with drip irrigation come from improper installation or not using the right kind of drip irrigation for the site. Do your homework when choosing a drip irrigation system beforehand and future issues can be avoided.

If you are a cook familiar with southwestern cuisine, speak Spanish, or are a fanatic crossword puzzle player, you may have run across the word “olla.” You do none of these things? Ok, what is an olla then? Read on for some interesting historical info pertinent to today’s environmentally friendly trends.

What is an Olla?

Did I confound you with the above last statement? Let me clarify. An olla is an unglazed clay pot used in Latin America for cooking, but it’s not only that. These earthenware urns were also used as olla watering systems.

The conquistadors brought olla irrigation techniques to the American Southwest where it was used by Native Americans and Hispanics. With the advancement of irrigation systems, olla watering systems fell out of favor. Today, where “everything old is new again,” self-watering olla pots are coming back into vogue and with good reason.

Benefits of Using Olla Irrigation Techniques

What is so great about self-watering olla pots? They are incredibly water-efficient irrigation systems and couldn’t be simpler to use. Forget trying to lay out your drip line and attach all those feeders in the proper place. Okay, maybe don’t forget it entirely.

Using an olla watering system is optimal for container gardens and for smaller garden spaces. Each olla can filter out water to one to three plants depending upon their size. To use an olla, simply fill it with water and bury it near the plant/plants, leaving the top unburied so you can refill it. It is wise to cover the olla top so it doesn’t become a mosquito breeding ground. Slowly, the water will seep from the urn, directly irrigating the roots. This keeps the surface dirt dry, hence, less likely to foster weeds and reduces the amount of water usage in general by eliminating runoff and evaporation.

This type of watering system can be beneficial to everyone but especially to folks who face watering restrictions. It’s also great for anyone heading out on a vacation or just plain too busy to water regularly. Using an olla for irrigation is especially handy when container gardening since, as we all know, pots tend to dry out rapidly. The olla should be refilled once to twice a week and should last for years.

Often known simply as “Brug,” brugmansia is a distinctive plant with big, fuzzy leaves and huge, drooping, trumpet-shaped blooms as long as your foot and interesting bean-like seedpods. This flashy tropical plant is surprisingly easy to grow, but it helps to know exactly how to water brugmansias.

When to Water Brugmansia

The frequency of brugmansia irrigation depends on a number of factors, including temperature, sunlight, time of year, and whether the plant is in a pot or in the ground. The key is to get acquainted with your brugmansia and it will tell you when it's thirsty. Basically, water the plant when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch and the leaves begin to look a little wilted.

How much water does brugmansia need? As a general rule, the plant will require fairly large amounts of water during the summer. If your brugmansia is in a pot, you may need to water it every day when the weather is hot and dry. Brugmansia in the ground needs water less frequently.

Potted brugmansia should be watered sparingly and allowed to dry out somewhat during the winter months, but don't allow your plant to become completely bone dry.

How to Water Brugmansia

Watering brugmansia plants isn't difficult. If possible, fill a watering can or bucket with water a day or so before you plan to water your brugmansia. This will allow harmful chemicals to evaporate, and your plant will be happier and healthier.

Pour the water over the soil slowly until water trickles through the drainage hole, then let the pot drain thoroughly. Never let the bottom of the pot stand in water; soggy, poorly drained soil invites root rot, a disease that is often fatal. A pot with a drainage hole is an absolutely necessity.

Give the plant a nutritional boost by mixing a general-purpose, water-soluble fertilizer into the water every couple of weeks or so.

Boston fern is a classic, old-fashioned houseplant valued for its long, lacy fronds. Although the fern isn't difficult to grow, it tends to shed its leaves if it doesn't receive plenty of bright light and water. Watering a Boston fern isn't rocket science, but understanding how much and how often to water Boston ferns requires a bit of practice and careful attention. Too much or too little water are both detrimental to the plant. Let's learn more about Boston fern irrigation.

How to Water a Boston Fern

Although Boston fern prefers slightly moist soil, it is likely to develop rot and other fungal diseases in soggy, waterlogged soil. The first sign that a fern is overwatered is usually yellowing or wilted leaves. One surefire way to determine if it's time to water a Boston fern is to touch the soil with your fingertip. If the surface of the soil feels slightly dry, it's time to give the plant a drink. The weight of the pot is another indication that a fern needs water. If the soil is dry, the pot will feel very light. Hold off watering for a few days, then test the soil again. Water the plant thoroughly, using room-temperature water, until water runs through the bottom of the pot. Let the plant drain thoroughly and never let the pot stand in water. Boston fern watering is enhanced if you provide a humid environment. Although you can mist the fronds occasionally, a tray of wet pebbles is a more effective way to increase the humidity around the plant. Place a layer of gravel or pebbles on a plate or tray, then set the pot on the wet pebbles. Add water as needed to keep the pebbles consistently moist. Be sure the bottom of the pot doesn't touch the water, as water seeping up through the drainage hole can cause root rot.