When lilac shrubs finally bloom in spring, it’s a joyful riot of seasonal color and intoxicatingly sweet scent. Gardeners wait all winter for this peak moment, when these classic shrubs burst into flower and fill the garden with fragrance.

That brief flowering window can feel all too fleeting, though, and it’s easy to slip into simply enjoying the display while it lasts. But what you do immediately after blooming has a direct impact on how well your lilacs perform next year. A little timely attention now helps set the stage for strong growth and abundant flowers in seasons to come.

While it’s tempting to just sit back and enjoy the show, some targeted lilac care in May will keep your shrubs healthy, vigorous, and blooming beautifully next season. To help you get the best out of your beloved lilacs, I’ve compiled a list of the most important tasks to tackle this month.

1. Deadhead the Spent Flowers

Depending on where you grow lilacs, the flowers will peak from April to May and almost certainly will be done blooming by mid-May or a little later in the month. Deadheading those spent blooms is an important garden chore for this month. One reason to remove spent flowers now is simply to keep your shrubs looking tidy.

Another, even more important reason to deadhead lilacs after flowering is to ensure the plants direct energy into strong roots and new shoots. If you leave the flowers in place, the bush will spend energy creating seeds you don’t need. Remove the flowers to redirect that energy to strong, healthy growth that will support abundant blooms next year.

To deadhead lilacs, use a sharp, clean pair of shears – I like Fiskars' Bypass Pruning Shears, available on Amazon. You can use your fingers, but this risks damaging the stems. A clean snip is better. Cut the spent flowers off just above a set of healthy leaves.

2. Prune After Flowering

While deadheading removes spent blooms, pruning goes further by reshaping the shrub and removing older wood. Different shrubs have different ideal pruning times. For lilacs, it’s right after blooming, which makes May the right time for this chore. It’s essential that you don’t wait too long, as lilacs set their next year’s flower buds very soon after flowering. If you prune lilacs in summer, you will remove buds and reduce the number of flowers next season.

Start by removing dead wood and some of the oldest canes, which you can cut back all the way to the ground. Cut back any canes that are too tall and remove all suckers. Ideally, a lilac bush should have about ten healthy canes, so prune as much as you need to achieve this. A very old, overgrown lilac can be rejuvenated by cutting the entire bush back to about six or eight inches (15 or 20 cm) from the ground.

3. Add Mulch

If the mulch around your lilac shrubs has deteriorated over the winter, now is a good time to refresh it. If you haven’t mulched them at all, consider adding a good layer this May. Mulch helps keep down weeds, regulates soil temperature, and helps keep moisture in the soil.

Use shredded bark, wood chips, or coconut husk, like Back to the Roots' Expanding Mulch, and spread it around the shrub to a depth of two to three inches (5 to 8 cm). Keep a small ring around the canes clear of mulch to reduce the risk of rotting due to excess moisture.

4. Check for Pests and Disease

Catching lilac problems early is the best way to keep them from getting out of control and becoming unmanageable. Common pests of lilacs are aphids, scale, and leaf borers. You can remove these mechanically by picking them off or using a strong stream of water to spray them off, as long as you catch the infestation early. You can also use an insecticidal soap or neem oil to manage these critters. Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Oil is ideal for this purpose.

Common diseases are leaf spot, powdery mildew, and bacterial blight. The first two are fungal infections, which you can treat with a fungicide. Leaf spot manifests as spots on the leaves, which curl and drop prematurely. Powdery mildew looks like a white or gray powder on leaves. It looks unsightly but is rarely serious or fatal to the plant.

Bacterial blight causes brown and black spots on leaves, stems, and flower buds. The best way to manage this disease is to remove affected parts of the plant and prune to improve airflow. Excess moisture triggers and spreads this disease.

5. Water and Fertilize as Needed

Lilacs are generally low-maintenance and don’t need a lot of feeding or supplemental watering. However, May is a good time to ensure your shrubs are getting all the nutrients and water they need for healthy growth that will support flowering next year.

Established lilac shrubs don’t generally need watering unless you’re going through a dry period with no rain. If this is the case, water deeply around the base of the shrub, trying to avoid getting water on the leaves and shoots. Do this once or twice a week only during very dry spells.

These shrubs are not heavy feeders, but you should fertilize lilac once a year if your soil is poor. You can add a slow-release fertilizer to the soil in late winter, or if you missed that application, apply it now, in May. Use a balanced product only, like TPS Nutrients' Lilac Fertilizer, available on Amazon. A fertilizer high in nitrogen will promote leaf growth at the expense of flowers.

May is the time to celebrate and enjoy the eruption of lilac flowers on your shrubs. But, if you want the same show next year, it’s also a time to provide essential care. Don’t skip these steps if you want healthy, heavily flowering lilacs every year.

Anyone considering bringing a potted plant into the garden should consider a dwarf Korean lilac tree. This small deciduous shrub grows happily in a container and offers rewards! Its pale lavender-purple flowers start blooming in late spring and fill the garden with fragrance. If you’ve thought about growing a lilac tree in a pot, this is the one for you.

For more information about potted lilac, including tips on how to care for dwarf Korean lilac, read on.

Growing Potted Lilac

Growing a lilac tree in a pot works well in many circumstances, particularly if the lilac tree you choose is a dwarf Korean lilac tree (Syringa meyeri ‘Palibin’). This compact shrub tops out at 4 feet (1 m.) with a somewhat larger spread. It grows well in large containers and is hardy to USDA hardiness zone 3.

The little Korean lilac tree offers masses of super-fragrant lilac flowers. At their peak, the blossoms almost completely cover the tree’s branches, creating a stunning floral display that attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. While the biggest bloom occurs in mid-May, the shrub will sometimes bloom a second time in late summer. Foliage is dark green, providing a nice contrast to the flowers.

Korean Lilac Tree Care

If you are wondering how to care for dwarf Korean lilac trees in pots, we’re here to help. Potted lilac trees have a few cultural conditions that are mandatory but are otherwise easy to care for. For example, the trees never get powdery mildew and are not troubled by many pests or diseases. However, like many other flowering ornamental trees, the dwarf lilac trees require a full sun location since it will not produce flowers in a shady location.

When you are growing lilac in a pot, be careful about the soil you use. It should be well-draining but contain enough organic material to retain moisture. While lilacs can adapt to poor soils or dry ones, the dwarf Korean lilac tree will die in poorly draining soil. 

Korean lilac tree care includes regular watering. You’ll need to water the shrubs at least weekly and twice weekly in extreme heat. Regular irrigation is even more important when the trees are planted in containers.

Potted Lilacs in the Garden

If you are wondering how to use potted dwarf lilac trees in the garden, here are a few things to keep in mind. Unlike regular lilac trees, these plants are short and compact. That makes them perfect for placement under a window or anywhere you want to protect a view. 

These trees also work well in an entranceway or as a specimen shrub. The container lilac is also perfect for placement on smaller patios or sunny front porches. 

What is a Meyer lilac? Native to China and Japan, Meyer lilac tree (Syringa meyeri) is an attractive, low-maintenance lilac tree with a rounded, broad shape. Meyer lilac is a heavy bloomer that produces masses of small, fragrant, tube-shaped flowers in shades of pinkish lavender and pale purple every spring. The glossy, ruffled leaves turn yellow-green before dropping from the tree in autumn.

Meyer lilac trees are also known as dwarf lilac trees or compact Meyer lilacs because they are smaller than most lilacs, reaching a mature size of 4 to 8 feet (1 to 2.5 m.) tall and 6 to12 feet (2 to 2.5 m.) wide. These dwarf lilac trees work beautifully as specimens, or in mass plantings, borders, or hedges. 

Growing Meyer lilacs is suitable in USDA zones 3 through 8. Like all lilacs, Meyer lilacs won’t bloom in warmer climates. Read on to learn more about dwarf lilac trees.

Growing Meyer Lilacs: 7 Tips On Caring For Dwarf Lilac Trees

• Dwarf lilac trees prefer moist, well-drained soil, but will tolerate poor, dry or compacted soil, as long as it isn’t soggy.
• Look for a spot where the tree will be exposed to full sunlight for most of the day. The soil should be well-drained and not soggy. 
• Water your compact Meyer lilac regularly during the first couple of years, especially during hot, dry weather. Thereafter, Meyer lilac trees are drought-tolerant and occasional irrigation during the summer is sufficient. 
• Feed dwarf lilac trees every spring after the first growing season using an all-purpose, granular fertilizer. 
• Spread a layer of mulch around the shrub every spring to conserve moisture and keep the ground cool.
• Prune compact Meyer lilac lightly after blooms fade in late spring. Major pruning should wait until winter when the tree is dormant. 
• Like with most lilacs, deadheading Meyer lilac trees isn’t required but will keep the shrub looking tidy.

Many gardeners claim newer lilacs are superior to old-fashioned lilacs, and it's true that new cultivars are available in a tremendous variety of colors and forms. In fact, there are over 20,000 lilac cultivars and hybrids in existence to date. Old-fashioned lilacs, however, are irresistible to many, with their soft purple blooms and heart-shaped leaves. Masses of flowers arrive in early spring, attracting hordes of colorful butterflies, not to mention gardeners who fill vases with the sweet-smelling blooms.

History of Lilac Bushes

Lilacs are native to Europe and the temperate climate areas in Asia. The common lilac, (Syringa vulgaris), originated in Eastern Europe. In the United States, historians think the first lilacs arrived during the Colonial period and were planted around 1750 at the Governor Wentworth Estate in New Hampshire. The location is now a state park. Thomas Jefferson planted old-fashioned lilacs in the late 1700s. We know this for sure because he documented the experience with numerous and lengthy notes in his garden book.

Growing Old-Fashioned Lilacs

Old-fashioned lilacs are tough plants that survive punishing cold but not heat and humidity. They are suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 7. As long as they have a period of winter dormancy, well-drained soil and at least six hours of sunlight per day, they require very little care. Here are a few tips on growing these old-time shrubs: Be patient. Old-fashioned lilacs take up to three years to bloom for the first time. Old-fashioned lilacs don't need much fertilizer, but they benefit from a fresh layer of compost every spring. You can also spread a layer of well-rotted manure around the plant after blooming. If you think they need a little extra nutrition, give them a handful of balanced dry fertilizer in late winter. Don't overdo; lilacs won't bloom with too much fertilizer. Provide about an inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week during dry weather. Old-fashioned lilac shrubs require very little pruning, but you can remove old canes and dead or damaged wood after blooming.

Lilac shrubs are flowering ornamentals beloved by gardeners for their fragrant, light purple blossoms. Naturally, lilac borer pests are not popular. According to lilac borer information, the larvae of ash borer moths damage not only lilac (Syringa spp.) but also ash trees (Fraxinus spp.) and privet (Ligustrum spp.). If you want more information about lilac ash borer symptoms or tips for managing lilac ash borers, read on.

Lilac Borer Information

Lilac borer pests (Podosesia syringae), also known as ash borers, are clear-wing moths. However, according to lilac borer information, adult females look more like wasps. The insects are found throughout the continental United States. Borer larvae are what cause the lilac ash borer symptoms. The larvae are large, growing up to an inch (2.5 cm.) long. They damage lilacs and other plants by feeding on the phloem and outer sapwood of trees and shrubs. The principal lilac ash borer symptoms are the galleries they dig. These are extensive, even if only a few larvae are present on a tree and cause significant damage to the plant. Generally, lilac borer pests attack the main trunk of a lilac. However, they can also dig tunnels in larger branches.

How to Get Rid of Lilac Borers

If you are wondering how to get rid of lilac borers, you are not alone. Most gardeners whose plants show signs of borer symptoms want to rid their yard of these pests. However, managing lilac ash borers isn’t easy. Your best bet is prevention. Keep your shrubs and trees free of stress when they are young. The borers often are able to enter a tree when you cut the trunk with lawn equipment, so be especially careful. Also, take care to irrigate during dry periods. While you can prevent an insect attack with insecticide sprays and pheromone traps in spring to catch the adult males, this will not help with borers already inside the plants. To prevent the issue, begin spraying the plants 10 days after you trap the males with pheromone. If you don’t use the traps, spray your plants in early May when lilacs are just finishing bloom. Repeat the spray three weeks later.

Ivory silk tree lilacs do not resemble any other lilacs you might have in your garden. Also called Japanese tree lilac, the ‘Ivory Silk’ cultivar is a large, rounded shrub with very large clusters of off-white flowers. Ivory Silk Japanese lilac is not trouble free, however. Although the problems with Japanese tree lilacs are few and far between, you’ll want to know about treating problems in Ivory Silk lilac should they arise.

Ivory Silk Japanese Lilac

The Ivory Silk cultivar is loved by many gardeners for its impressive size and glorious flower clusters. The plant can grow to 30 feet (9 m.) tall and 15 feet (5 m.) wide. The cream-colored blossoms arrive in summer. They are very showy and last two weeks on the tree. Though most lilac blossoms have a heady fragrance, the Ivory Silk flowers are much subtler.

Ivory Silk Japanese lilac thrives in cooler areas, specifically in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 6 or 7. It grows in the form of a pyramid in its early years but later expands to a rounded form.

Ivory Silk tree care includes picking an appropriate planting site. The more effort you put into planting this cultivar and Ivory Silk tree care, the fewer Japanese tree lilac problems you will experience.

Plant Ivory Silk Japanese lilac in a full sun location. The tree accepts any well-drained soil, including sand or clay, and will grow in soil with a pH of acidic to slightly alkaline. Urban pollution does not create any extra problems.

Problems with Japanese Tree Lilacs

Many problems with Japanese tree lilacs only arise if planted in a less-than-ideal location. If you plant in a shady location, for instance, they can develop powdery mildew. You can identify powdery mildew by the white powdery substance on leaves and stems. This problem usually occurs in rainy seasons and rarely does serious damage to the tree.

Early and appropriate fertilizing can help prevent other diseases like verticillium wilt. These Japanese tree lilac problems cause wilting and premature leaf drop.

On the other hand, too much nitrogen fertilizer can bring on bacterial blight. Keep your eye out for young shoots that develop black stripes or leaves that develop black spots. Flowers may also wilt and die. If your plant has bacterial blight, treating problems in Ivory Silk lilac involves pulling out and destroying infected plants. You’ll also want to reduce fertilizer and thin your plants.

As with other lilacs, a few pests can cause problems in Japanese tree lilacs. Lilac borer is one of them. The larvae tunnel into the branches. Very badly infested branches may break off. Cut out infected stems and destroy them. If you provide adequate irrigation and fertilizer, you’ll keep the borers at bay.

Another pest to look out for is lilac leaf miners. These bugs dig tunnels in the leaves in early summer. When the caterpillars emerge, they eat all the foliage. If you catch these pests early, just pick off the miners by hand.

Lilac blooms are one of the best parts of the growing season, but these bushes can also bring dramatic heartbreak when they get sick. Powdery mildew on lilac bushes is one of the most common problems of these beloved plants; learn how to eliminate it from your garden inside.

About Powdery Mildew Fungus of Lilac

There’s nothing like the scent of lilac in the spring, but the amazing smell that reminds so many of us of our grandmother’s and their gardens often comes with tricky diseases like powdery mildew. If you see white powder on lilac leaves, it doesn’t mean your bush is at the end, but unless you correct the underlying cause, it can become a chronic condition that weakens your bush over time. Powdery mildew on lilac bushes isn’t caused by a single fungus, but is, instead, caused by several different species. As the name implies, the primary symptom in lilacs is a powder-like coating on the leaves of the bush, but this coating can spread to leaves, stems, and flowers if conditions are right. The fungus can also cause cupping, crinkling or other distortion of leaves in younger growth on your lilac bush. It often grows aggressively during warm, damp summers, resulting in entire sections of plants covered in the dust-like fruiting bodies. For established bushes, a mild infection of powdery mildew won’t cause permanent damage or death, so often the best treatment is to simply ignore the problem. Sometimes it’s just a matter of bad luck that your summer is unusually moist or long, giving the pathogen a better chance to really set in. However, if you have powdery mildew fungus of lilac year after year, you may want to consider making some changes to how you garden.

Controlling Powering Mildew on Lilac Bushes

Treating powdery mildew on lilacs is rarely necessary, but there are several things you can do to eliminate or reduce the effects of the environment on those fungal spores. Instead of heading straight for fungicide that is often a costly and endless battle, try these tricks to reduce powdery mildew long term: 1. Trim your bush. Thinning your lilac and trimming the bottom branches can greatly increase interior air circulation, which in turn makes it hard for powdery mildew to survive. It can also help to thin other plants that may be close by to encourage aggressive air flow so your plant can dry completely, robbing powdery mildew fungus of much needed humidity. 2. Remove plant debris. Powdery mildew spores tend to overwinter in the dead leaves of seasons past, so instead of letting that debris simply pile up, remove it and compost or bag it. This takes more powdery mildew out of play and helps to prevent reinfection. 3. Reduce fertilizer. Although it might seem counter-intuitive to withhold fertilizer from a sick lilac bush, it’s actually a great way to fight powdery mildew. Since this fungus loves soft, tender new growth and has a harder time infecting older, tougher growth, reducing or withholding fertilizer is another way to reduce the opportunities for a lilac to go wild.

Moving lilac bushes brings fragrant shrubs to shine as border plants, solo stunners, or flowering hedges. Transplanting lilacs is tough work, especially for big ones. Time it right to dodge a banged-up bush sitting in a sad patch.

These shrubs hate being uprooted, so choose wisely. As part of good lilac care, pick a smart spot with good drainage and handle roots gently to keep blooms coming.

A rushed summer move can leave a lilac bloomless for two seasons. Time it smart, prep the soil well, and care for the bush to ensure those purple clusters keep the garden lively.

When to Transplant Lilacs

Move lilacs when they’re not in full swing—early spring before buds push, or late fall after leaves have dropped. In USDA zones 4–7, March usually works well, letting roots get established before the heat of summer. Fall, around late October, gives plants time to settle in for next year. Avoid summer, because dry heat stresses the roots and slows recovery. For smaller shoots, spring is ideal—they’re easier to handle, and calm, overcast days reduce transplant shock.

Choosing the Right Location

Lilacs need sun, room, and soil that doesn’t hold water. Test your soil’s pH with a reliable soil test kit, like this one from Amazon, and adjust if needed, and mix in compost for better structure. Keep them away from shade and crowded areas, and dig a hole slightly larger than the roots to make transplanting easier and less damaging. It helps to have a good quality transplanting shovel like this d-handle steel blade spade from the Home Depot.

Preparing Lilacs for Transplanting

Water the plant deeply 2-3 days before moving to keep roots plump. Cut back the dead wood and snarled-up branches first. When digging, give young shoots 6–12 inches from the base, but older bushes need more space out and deeper. Work a garden fork around the roots so you’re lifting, not cutting. You’ll need to dig 12-18 inches (30-46 cm) out, 1.5 feet (46 cm) deep.

Loosen roots lightly with that garden fork to avoid slicing. Wrap the root ball in burlap to hold soil tight. For big bushes, a wheelbarrow moves the load without breaking roots. Soak the new hole with water a day before to settle dirt.

How to Transplant Lilacs

1. Dig the hole first, bigger than the plant looks like it needs. Twice the width of the root ball is about right, but keep the depth the same as before.
2. Mix compost into that loose soil while you’ve got the chance. Freshly dug soil is like an open door—might as well slip in some food.
3. Getting the shrub out is the hardest part. Ease your shovel in, wiggle it loose, and keep as much of the root ball together as you can. If it’s a big old beast, roll it onto a tarp and drag it. Your back will thank you!
4. Sit it in the new hole at the same height it grew before. Don’t bury the trunk.
5. Backfill around the roots, pressing the soil gently in layers so the lilac sits snug and air pockets don’t dry out the roots.
6. Drench it with water right away. That drink helps more than anything else.
7. Mulch around the base—bark, straw, whatever you’ve got. This keeps weeds down and water in.
8. If your site’s gusty, give it some support with a couple of posts and soft ties, at least until the roots anchor.

Aftercare

Plan on about an inch of water each week during the first year. Double that if summer turns harsh. If leaves wilt, dig into the soil to see if it’s dry. Fertilize in spring with something balanced like 10-10-10. One of my favorites is Espoma, which can be found on Amazon. Once the blooms fade, trim it back just enough for shape and airflow.

Look for lilac borers which cause small holes in stems, or powdery mildew’s white coating. Spray with insecticidal soap for pests or copper fungicide for mildew. A soil test kit keeps pH in check. Lilacs recover slowly, taking a year or two to bloom full force, so stay patient.

Lilac Transplanting Mistakes to Avoid

Shifting lilacs in the summer heat is almost always a death sentence for the blooms. Slice roots by digging too close and they dry out in no time. Stick one in soggy soil and you’ll have rot before it ever settles. Always test the hole with water first. And don’t prune the lilac to pieces before the move—just take out the dead branches. Mulch to block weeds, water carefully, and don’t sink the trunk too deep.

Handle it with a bit of patience and sense, and you’ll have a lilac that not only survives the move but keeps rewarding you with color and fragrance every season.

With their unmistakable fragrance and beautiful spring blooms, lilacs are a favorite of so many gardeners. However, not every gardener has the space or the long-term living situation for big, old, flowering bushes. If this is your situation, maybe you should try growing lilacs in containers. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow a lilac in a pot.

Container Grown Lilacs

Planting a lilac shrub in a pot is doable, but it isn’t ideal. Lilacs can get huge, and they grow best when their roots are free to spread out. When growing lilacs in containers, the first step is to pick a variety that stays relatively small. Some dwarf varieties exist, such as:

• Minuet
• Pixie
• Munchkin

Some non-dwarf varieties that stay small include:

• Syringa meyeri
• S. pubescens
• S. patula

Even small container grown lilacs need lots of room for their roots, so get as large a container as you can manage, preferably at least 12 inches (30 cm.) deep and 24 inches (61 cm.) wide. Terra cotta is better than plastic, since it’s stronger and better insulated.

Potted Lilac Care

Another challenge to planting a lilac shrub in a pot is getting the soil right. Lilacs can’t tolerate acidic soil, and most commercial potting soils contain at least some pH lowering peat moss. The best way to handle this is to add 1 cup (237 mL.) of dolomite lime to every 2 cubic feet (57 l.) of potting soil. Move your container to its final resting place before planting, since it will probably be very heavy when it’s full. Place it somewhere that receives at least 6 hours of full sun every day. Keep it relatively moist, watering every time the soil dries out to an inch (2.5 cm.) below the surface. If your winters are harsh, protect your lilac from the winter cold either by burying it in the ground or heavily mulching around the pot. Don’t bring your lilac inside for the winter - it needs the cold to set buds for next spring’s flowers.

Lilac witches’ broom is an unusual growth pattern that causes new shoots to grow in tufts or clusters so that they resemble an old-fashioned broom. The brooms are caused by a disease that often kills the shrub. Read on for details about witches’ broom in lilac.

Lilac Phytoplasma

In lilacs, witches’ brooms are almost always caused by phytoplasmas. These tiny, single-celled organisms are similar to bacteria, but unlike bacteria, you can’t grow them in a laboratory. Since they couldn’t isolate them, and you can’t see them without a powerful electron microscope, scientists didn’t discover them until 1967. Many phytoplasmas still don’t have proper scientific names or descriptions, but we know that they are the cause of several plant diseases. Witches’ brooms are the most easily recognized symptom of a lilac phytoplasma disease. The shoots that form the “broom” are short, tightly clustered, and grow almost straight up. When you see the brooms, the shrub needs immediate attention. There are a few other symptoms that alert you to the disease:

• The leaves on the twigs that make up the broom remain green and attached to the branches and stems longer than usual. They may cling to the plant until killed by a winter frost.
• Leaves on the rest of the plant may be small, distorted, and yellow.
• Abnormal yellow leaves scorch to brown by midsummer.
• Small, thin shoots form at the base of the plant.

Treating Lilacs with Witches’ Broom

Witches’ broom can’t be cured. Shrubs usually die a few years after the appearance of the first brooms. You can extend the life of the shrub by pruning off branches when other parts of the shrub seem unaffected. If you choose to prune, disinfect your tools thoroughly with a 10 percent bleach solution or a 70 percent alcohol solution before making the next cut. It’s best to remove a shrub if most or all of it is showing symptoms. Early removal is the best option if there are other lilacs in the landscape. The disease is spread by insects that feed on the plant’s sap. An insect can transmit the phytoplasma even after as many as two years of picking it up.

Lilacs (Syringa vulgaris) are striking specimen plants with their early blooming, lacy blossoms that exude a sweet perfume. You’ll find cultivars with blue, pink, purple, and other colorful blossoms. However lovely the flowers are, the shrub’s short blooming season can be disappointing. A careful selection of lilac bush companions in the garden can help fill the gap. For tips on what to plant with lilac bushes, read on.

Lilac Companion Plants

If you are wondering what to plant with lilac bushes, you may be surprised at the large selection of lilac companion plants. Companion plants for lilac bushes are plants that either look good near lilacs or else complement the lilacs in some way. When it comes to companion planting with lilacs, spring-flowering bulbs are among the top choices for many gardeners. They make a natural choice to plant as companion plants for lilac bushes because they bloom at the same time. You’ll find many attractive spring bulbs to fill up the area near your lilac bush as lilac companion plants. Bulb plants like daffodils, tulips, grape hyacinth, and peonies multiply and naturalize. Plant enough of them and you’ll never weed in the area again.

Additional Lilac Bush Companions

Are you wondering what to plant with lilac bushes to extend the floriation? You can use other lilac bushes to great advantage. While in yesteryear, all lilacs bloomed in spring, these days you can find cultivars that bloom at different periods. Pick shrubs that blossom at different times so that you can have several months of lilacs instead of only several weeks. Alternatively, you can select other flowering shrubs or small trees. Weigela works well, but so do the following:

• Mock orange
• Flowering crabapples
• Dogwoods
• Flowering cherries
• Magnolias

Placed beside each other in your backyard, they make a fabulous spring display. For more adventurous companion planting with lilacs, allow your lilac tree to serve as a trellis for light vines. If you plant a lightweight vine like clematis, it can scale your lilac without hurting it. The great advantage is that clematis blooms after a spring-flowering lilac is already done. Lilac bushes also make good trellises for passionflower vines, like maypop. Maypop also blooms after the lilac blossoms have faded—large, fringed flowers—and, later, grows attractive, edible fruit.

Lilac bushes (Syringa vulgaris) are fragrant and lovely in the springtime. However, they tend to be invasive. Read on for information about removing old lilac bushes once and for all.

How Do I Get Rid of Lilac Bushes?

Lilac shrubs reproduce by seeds, but they also grow new plants from suckers. Shoots grow from the roots that grow parallel with the surface of the soil. As the roots grow along, they send up sucker shoots. Each one of these can grow into a new bush.

A single lilac plant easily forms an entire grove of these shrubs over time. It may be the emergence of the grove that has you asking, “How do I get rid of lilac roots?”

The big problem with getting rid of lilac bushes is that the plant regrows from any piece of root section left in the ground, so cutting down the bush at ground level is a very temporary solution. Quite quickly, you will have many lilac shoots coming up from the stump area.

Getting Rid of Lilac Bushes by Pulling Them Out

How to get rid of lilac bushes? One solution to the problem of removing old lilac bushes is pulling them out. Watering the ground around the plant thoroughly helps loosen the soil. You can try pulling out the roots by hand if the plant is young.

Use a shovel and hoe to dig down on all sides, exposing the roots. Use the shovel to remove the entire rootball. With older, established plants, you’ll do better using a tractor or truck to pull out the plant’s root system. Tie a strap around the base of the lilac, put tension on it with the vehicle, then cut the roots on the other side. Keep adding more tension and eventually the root ball will emerge from the soil.

Removing old lilac bushes completely requires that all root sections be removed. Any piece remaining in the ground can resprout.

Getting Rid of Lilac Bushes Without Chemicals

We strongly urge that you avoid the use of chemicals whenever possible. When preparing to remove old lilac bushes, cut the bushes to ground level with a chainsaw and burn or dispose of all of the foliage.

If you are unable to dig the roots up by hand, you may need to hire a landscaper or someone who can bring in heavy equipment. For other solutions, contact your local university extension service or talk with a local garden center about organic alternatives.

Lilac bushes (Syringa vulgaris) are low-maintenance shrubs prized for their fragrant purple, pink, or white blossoms. These shrubs or small trees thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, depending on the variety. Read on for information about how to harvest lilac seeds and lilac seed propagation.

Do Lilac Bushes Have Berries?

If you ask, “Do lilac bushes have berries?” the answer is no. Lilac bushes do not produce berries. However, they do produce seeds.

Growing Lilac Seeds

Lilacs produce seeds in seed heads. Lilac bushes can be propagated from those seeds. The seed heads form after the flowers finish blooming. They are brown, large, and not very ornamental. You will not get seed heads the first year you plant your lilacs, nor, probably, the second. The lilac bushes do not bloom immediately after they are established. It usually takes at least three years before you get blooms on your lilacs. Once your lilac bush starts flowering, your plant will start producing lilac seed pods that, in turn, start growing lilac seeds. If you are thinking of growing these bushes from lilac seed propagation, you will have to wait until your bush produces seed pods.

How to Harvest Lilac Seeds

If you want to grow additional lilac plants, collecting and storing seeds is an efficient and inexpensive alternative. First, you have to learn how to harvest lilac seeds. If you want to plant seeds, your best bet is to handpick seeds from the best lilac blooms. Selecting lilac seed pods from the most attractive flowers ensures healthier and more beautiful plants. Lilac bushes generally bloom in springtime for several weeks. Once the flowers are wilted, the lilacs produce clusters of brown, nut-like fruit. This fruit also dries in time and splits open to reveal the lilac seed pods within. The basic procedure for how to harvest lilac seeds is simple. You pull seeds from the dried lilac seed pods after the flower blooms have dried on the bush. You can store the seeds until you are ready to plant them.

Lilac Seed Propagation

The lilac seeds sprout quickly, but before you rely too heavily on lilac seed propagation, check and see if your lilac is a hybrid. Plants grown from hybrid seeds rarely grow true to the parent plant. Since most lilacs are hybrids, lilac seed propagation can often be disappointing. If this is the case, perhaps growing lilac cuttings would prove more effective.

Is lilac a tree or a shrub? It all depends on the variety. Shrub lilacs and bush lilacs are short and compact. Tree lilacs are trickier. The classic definition of a tree is that it is over 13 feet (4 m.) tall and has a single trunk. Tree lilacs can grow up to 25 feet (7.6 m.) high and have a tree-like appearance, but their many stems tend to get them classified as bushes. They are not technically trees, but they get big enough that you can treat them as if they are.

Lilac Bush Varieties

Lilac shrub or bush varieties can be split into two categories: large upright and densely branched. In the first category is the common lilac, a hugely diverse plant that comes in a wide range of colors and fragrances. This large upright shrub lilac usually grows to 8 feet (2.4 m.) in height, but some varieties can be as short as 4 feet (1.2 m.). Densely branched shrub and bush lilacs are specific types bred for lots of flowers in small space. The Manchurian lilac gets anywhere from 8 to 12 feet (2.4 to 3.7 m.) tall and wide, and grows in a very dense pattern that does not require yearly pruning and makes for showy flower displays. The Meyer lilac is another good densely branched choice.

Types of Lilac Trees

There are a few types of lilac trees that offer the fragrance and beauty of the lilac bush varieties, with the addition of height and shade.

• The Japanese tree lilac reaches heights of 25 feet (7.6 m.) and produces fragrant white flowers. A very popular cultivar of this variety is the “Ivory Silk.”
• The Pekin tree lilac (also called the Peking tree lilac) can reach 15 to 24 feet (4.6 to 7.3 m.) and comes in a variety of colors from yellow on the Beijing Gold cultivar to white on the China Snow cultivar.

It is also possible to prune the common shrub lilac’s many stems down to a single trunk to emulate the look of a tree.

Who doesn't like a lovely lilac bush? The soft lavender tones and the rich intoxicating scent all add up to a pretty garden accent. That being said, lilacs have an unfortunate tendency to get large and unruly, but the new types of dwarf lilac have compact forms while still giving the showiest floral show in town. Regular lilacs can grow 6 to 15 feet (2-4.5 m.) in height but the dwarf lilac varieties are only 4 to 5 feet (1-1.5 m.) and can easily fit into small gardens or even containers.

What is a Dwarf Lilac?

Space challenged gardeners, or those that prefer a tidy looking plant, will love the dwarf lilac varieties. These smaller bushes offer all the same color and scent the standard forms present with a more compact form. Dwarf lilacs are fairly new developments with the Korean dwarf one of the first to be marketed. 

Syringa are old-fashioned garden classics that conjure warm spring days and crisp nights. They are one of the harbingers of summer as the whole garden begins to burst into color. Lilacs are useful as hedges, single specimens, and border plants. With their rapid growth and large forms, they provide scented screening around the property. Dwarf lilacs accept a different challenge as container, edging, and foundation plants. 

What is a dwarf lilac? Dwarf lilac varieties are bred on rootstocks that promote smaller forms but still pack a big aromatic punch. They range from 4 to 6 feet (1-2 m.) in height with a denser frame than their standard counterparts.

Types of Dwarf Lilacs

One of the most well-known of the compact shrubs is the Korean Dwarf lilac or Meyer lilac. This diminutive plant is a neat little shrub approximately 4 feet (1 m.) in height and 5 feet (1.5 m.) wide. It takes shearing gracefully and produces 4 inch (10 cm.) long panicles of dark violet flowers. Other types include:

• Palibin is a variety of Korean lilac that is known for its hardiness down to USDA zone 3.
• Josee, a compact lilac that may get up to 6 feet (2 m.) in height, is a re-bloomer with lavender-pink blooms.
• Tinkerbelle is an early bloomer with a spicy scent and rich wine colored panicles.
• Another plant to consider when growing dwarf lilacs is Boomerang. It has a 4 by 4 foot (1 x 1 m.) form and abundant blooms with smaller leaves than most lilac bushes.

Tips for Growing Dwarf Lilacs

Lilac bushes prefer northern climates and do not flower well in the south. A full sun location in well-draining soil of average fertility will produce the healthiest plant and showiest flowers. 

Plant the lilac in a hole as deep as the root ball but twice as wide. New installations will require evenly moist soil until they establish and, thereafter, once per week in summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch (2.5 cm.). After they bloom is the time to prune these lilacs, which flower on old wood. Remove broken wood and old canes. Cut any newer wood back to a growth node. 

Minimize the amount of new wood taken because it will diminish the next season's blooms. Dwarf lilacs are easy to care for and add old-time elegance to the landscape.

Shakespeare memorialized the sweet smell of the rose, but obviously, he hadn't so much as sniffed a lilac, the undisputed perfumed queen of the spring. These beautiful, hardy bushes are a great addition to your landscape because they tend to be easy to care for, and the problems with lilac bushes are mostly minor. Even so, it's best to be prepared if you have a run-in with lilac pests and diseases, so we made up a list of common lilac problems you may encounter.

Common Diseases of Lilacs

Although lilacs are a hardy bunch, they can succumb to problems like any other landscape shrub. Be on the lookout for these diseases:

Bacterial blight - The bacteria Pseudomonas syringae causes early shoot and branch dieback, distorted leaves, and leaf spots that start out olive green but soon develop water-soaked areas. Those spots turn brown with yellow margins and begin to die. Blossoms may become limp or turn brown suddenly. Pruning away the diseased material and thinning the inside of the shrub is the best way to control this disease, but if the infection is widespread, a copper fungicide will help kill it quickly.

Powdery mildew - Powdery mildew is probably the most common problem in lilacs. It's caused by a variety of fungal pathogens that result in leaves with a powdered appearance, either in tightly organized spots or spread across the surfaces. Increasing the air circulation around infected leaves is the best treatment, so make sure to thin your plants yearly.

Leaf spots - Leaf spots are another fungal problem caused by a variety of pathogens. When you see tan spots appear on your lilac leaves, with or without causing the leaves to fall, you've likely got one of the many leaf spot diseases on your hands. As with powdery mildew, this problem is a result of high local humidity, so thin that shrub and clean up all fallen debris to prevent future infections.

Common Lilac Pests

Lilacs attract just a few serious pests, most of the caterpillars and leaf miners that may visit aren't anything to be worried about. However, if either of these pests appear, it's time for action:

Scales - Scales can be difficult to detect. Many species look like cottony or waxy growths on the stems and branches of landscape shrubs. If you lift their covers though, you'll find very small, brightly colored insects underneath. Scales are best treated with repeated applications of neem oil, spaced seven to 14 days apart. When they're clustered together in one section of the plant, pruning them out is an excellent option.

Borers - The larvae of the clearwing moth is a boring insect that prefers to feed on lilacs. These tiny caterpillars spend most of their lives inside the stems and branches of your plant, only emerging to mate. Effective management centers around keeping the lilac healthy and happy, since sick plants are much more likely to attract borers. They have a number of natural enemies that will pick them off when the lilac is stronger and less appealing.

Lilacs are superior performers when it comes to blooming. They develop buds in the fall which overwinter and burst into color and scent in spring. Winter freezes can damage some tender varieties, but the majority of lilac cultivars are hardy to USDA zones 4 or even 3. With good pruning practices and some spring babying, the plants handle a hard winter beautifully and need little special lilac care in winter.

Winterizing Lilac Shrubs

Lilacs are one of the most winter hardy ornamental plants around. Do lilacs need cold protection? They can withstand temperatures of -40 degrees F. (-40 C.) but may need some protection from icy winds that damage the flower buds. They need well-draining soil to prevent frozen water from damaging their roots and killing the tree. Lilacs that have not been grafted are hardier than those that have been grafted to rootstock. Lilac winter care starts with good siting and a healthy plant. The plant needs at least eight hours of sunshine and alkaline to neutral soil. When choosing a planting location, avoid planting them against a light-colored building or wall, as this can cause winter burn from the reflection. They make a brilliant front of house display and darker buildings can actually afford lilac winter protection. However, avoid planting them too close to the foundation, as their roots can cause issues over time. Prune off the spent flower heads to help promote bud formation. Winterizing lilac shrubs is not the intensive process it is for sensitive plants.

Lilac Care in Winter

Lilacs withstand a chilly winter better than most plants. They do benefit from occasional watering if there is no precipitation available to the roots. Watering around the root zone actually keeps the soil warmer than dry soil, offering lilac winter protection. In rare cases, you may need to cover the plant to protect the buds. This occurs in late winter to early spring when buds are beginning to break, and a harsh freeze comes along. Use a blanket, canvas, or even plastic tent over the bush to help protect the buds form the cold. Remove it during the day if temperatures warm up so the plant can get sun and air.

Pruning for Post Lilac Winter Care

Pruning is not important for the first five to six years of a young lilac's life. It can be an important step to lilac recovery if winter damage has occurred. Wait until the plant has bloomed before you make any cuts to avoid removing the flowers. Cut out any damaged or diseased stems. Thin the suckers by one-third for complete rejuvenation of old plants. After three years, the plant will be renewed without affecting bloom production.

Lilacs rule the spring garden with beautiful blooms in all shades of purple—and that fragrance! It’s no wonder they’re such popular shrubs, though wondering how to propagate lilacs is an obvious topic on many gardeners’ minds.

So, how can you grow more of these stunning spring shrubs? Our garden experts dug into the best propagation methods and will walk you step-by-step through one of the easiest ways to grow lilacs from shrubs you already have in your garden.

Best Ways to Propagate Lilacs

There are several different methods of propagating lilacs. Some are more difficult, like trying to propagate lilacs by seed or grafting, but others are quicker and easier.

One of the easiest ways to propagate lilacs is via root suckers. Simply dig out a sucker that has sprouted off of the mother lilac root system and replant it elsewhere in your garden. Propagate lilac suckers in early spring before flowers open.

Another easy way to propagate lilacs is by layering. This method takes a bit longer, but it’s very simple. Choose a flexible branch and make a cut about one foot (30 cm) from the end of the branch.

Bend the branch so the cut touches the ground. Bury the cut under the soil and place a rock, wicket, or heavy object over the branch between the cut and the base of the plant to hold it in place.

Water and wait for roots to emerge. Once the layered branch has developed roots, cut it from the mother plant and transplant. Propagation by layering can take several months or up to a year.

The most popular way to propagate lilacs, however, is by rooting plant cuttings. This is a reliable way to produce more of the same plant you already have in your garden and it’s easy enough for anyone to try.

How to Propagate Lilacs From Cuttings

Learning how to propagate lilacs from cuttings can be a bit tricky at first, but if you follow a few basic guidelines it’s a fun project for even the most inexperienced gardener.

1. Take Lilac Cuttings

The first step to propagating lilacs via cuttings is taking the cuttings with a pair of pruners, like the Felco F6 Hand Pruners on Amazon. Some plants propagate best from softwood cuttings taken from new growth. For others, hardwood cuttings work best and for some others, like willows, either type of cutting will root.

Lilacs grow best from softwood cuttings. For the highest likelihood of success, take tender softwood cuttings as mature growth is less likely to root. The best time for pruning lilacs for cuttings is just after new growth begins in spring.

Take several cuttings to increase your chances of success. Harvest cuttings in the morning when the weather is cool and the lilac bush is well-hydrated. Cut 4 to 6 inch lengths (10-15 cm) of tender, new growth from the tips of branches.

2. Prepare Lilac Cuttings

Next, strip the bottom leaves from the cuttings, leaving two or three leaves at the top. Then prepare pots with well-draining potting soil or a mixture of peat, vermiculite, and perlite where you will plant your cuttings.

Lightly moisten the mixture with water, then make holes in the potting soil with a pencil or a finger. You can dip the bottom of your cuttings in rooting hormone to help give new roots a boost, though this step is optional.

3. Plant Lilac Cuttings

Pat the potting mix lightly around the base of the cutting so it stands up straight. Roots emerge from the nodes, or the points where the leaves attach to the stem, so make sure to plant cuttings deep enough that at least a couple of nodes are covered.

You can plant several cuttings in the same pot, as long as their leaves aren't touching. You can also plant cuttings in individual cells in a nursery tray. The Burpee SuperSeed Seed Starting Tray from Amazon is the perfect size for propagating lilac cuttings, and it comes with a lid that'll keep cuttings moist to help them root faster.

Don’t try to propagate just one lilac cutting, since there is a good chance every cutting won’t succeed. Set up at least two cuttings for every new plant you want to grow.

4. Care for Lilac Cuttings

Place the cuttings in a warm location, such as on the top of a refrigerator. Bright light isn't necessary at this stage. Water the cuttings daily or as often as needed to keep the potting mix slightly moist, but never soggy. It takes about 6 to 8 weeks for roots to begin forming. Keep soil moist during the entire rooting period.

To help cuttings root, increase humidity around your plants. Use a mister or cover the pot with a clear plastic bag to create a more humid environment. Be sure to open the bag occasionally or poke a few holes in the plastic to provide air circulation. Otherwise, cuttings may rot.

5. Transplant Lilac Cuttings

Let the lilacs mature until the roots are well established. This typically occurs about two months after planting. You will know when roots develop because the cuttings will start sending out new growth.

At that point, move the pots into bright light and allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Allow this to continue for a few weeks to get the roots established. Then you can either leave the cuttings in their pots, transplant them to larger pots with a well-draining soil to keep growing lilacs as container plants, or plant them outside.

If you choose to transplant lilacs into the garden, select an open area that offers both sun exposure and soil with good drainage. Mix compost into the soil in the planting area, then plant cuttings a few inches deeper than they were growing. Backfill the hole, tamp down the soil, and water well.

Will Lilac Cuttings Root in Water?

Some plants develop roots quickly in a glass of water on a sunny windowsill, but this practice isn't usually recommended for lilacs. When propagating lilacs from cuttings, the best and most reliable method is rooting them in soil. Though, that doesn’t mean you can’t try rooting lilacs in water.

To propagate cuttings in water, take cuttings from a healthy lilac and place stems in a glass or jar filled with 1 to 2 inches (3-5 cm) of water. Strip the leaves from the part of the stem that will be in the water to prevent cuttings from rotting.

Add fresh water as needed. If the cuttings develop roots, plant them in a pot and let them mature until roots are a few inches long, then move it outdoors.

Frequently Asked Questions

There are over 800 cultivars of lilacs with plants that bloom in hues of blue, purple, white, pink, and magenta. Lilacs grow well in sunny locations with slightly alkaline to neutral soil, and require little more than occasional pruning and lilac plant fertilizer.

 Learn how to fertilize lilac shrubs to promote the best and most prolific scented blooms. The scent is unmistakable and intoxicating. Lilacs have been in cultivation for at least 500 years and represent old money and crumbling mansions. 

The bushes are hardy and require little attention, including fertilizer, except in nutrient-poor regions. For those plants, rejuvenation pruning might be a better answer, but you can also apply lilac plant fertilizer in spring for added health. Knowing when to feed a lilac will promote better blooms and avoid heavy foliage.

When to Feed a Lilac

Plant food helps promote better leafy growth, healthy roots, better nutrient and water uptake, as well as better blooming and production. The ratio in fertilizer refers to NPK, which are the macronutrients a plant needs for optimum health. They are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. 

Plants with a high first number are formulated to enhance leafy growth, while phosphorus and potassium spur root health, flower, and fruit production. Fertilizing lilacs with anything but a balanced fertilizer can create excessive foliage or heavy blooms. 

The best lilac plant fertilizer is a closely balanced fertilizer applied when active growth is just beginning. Since lilacs are deciduous, this is in spring just as the canes begin to awaken.

How to Fertilize Lilac Shrubs

Bone meal is a great fertilizer for lilac bushes. This is because it makes soil more alkaline. It is a natural plant food easy for the lilac to intake. Fertilizing lilacs isn't strictly necessary except after the first and second years of planting. They may be fertilized at planting with a superphosphate and limestone to sweeten the soil and avoid excess acidity. 

As long as the soil is the proper balance and there is plenty of organic matter, you can forgo traditional fertilizer mixes. Only bushes planted in poor soil will really benefit from annual feeding. Use a 5-10-10 ratio when you do feed the plants. Spread 1 cup (237 ml.) granular food evenly around the root zone of the plant and water into the soil.

General Lilac Care

For old, poorly cared for plants that have become tangled masses of suckers, prune the bushes after bloom to rejuvenate them. A fertilizer for lilac bushes can be applied in early spring but a better way to reinvigorate these tired old plants is by pruning out 1/3 of the old canes for three successive seasons. This will allow fresh growth to emerge while still permitting the blooms to grow. Prune off the spent blooms to make room for the next season's flower buds to grow.

When you think about lilacs, the first thing that comes to mind is their sweet fragrance. As beautiful as its flowers are, the fragrance is the most cherished attribute. Read on to find out about the characteristics of the different types of lilac bushes.

Common Lilac Varieties

Horticulturists have cross bred the 28 species of lilac so extensively that even the experts sometimes have trouble telling lilac plant types apart. Even so, some species have attributes that might make them better suited to your garden and landscape. Here are some different types of lilacs that you might want to consider for your garden:

• Common lilac (Syringa vulgaris): For most people, this lilac is the most familiar. The flowers are lilac colored and have a strong fragrance. Common lilac grows to a height of about 20 feet (6 m.).
• Persian lilac (S. persica): This variety grows 10 feet (3 m.) tall. The flowers are pale lilac in color, and about half the diameter of common lilacs. Persian lilac is a good choice for an informal hedge.
• Dwarf Korean lilac (S. palebinina): These lilacs grow only 4 feet (1 m.) tall and make a good informal hedge plant. The flowers resemble those of common lilac.
• Tree lilacs (S. amurensis): This variety grows into a 30 foot (9 m.) tree with off-white flowers. Japanese tree lilac (S. amurensis ‘Japonica') is a type of tree lilac with unusual, very pale yellow flowers.
• Chinese lilac (S. chinensis): This is one of the best varieties to use as a summer screen or hedge. It grows quickly to reach a height of 8 to 12 feet (2-4 m.). Chinese lilac is a cross between common lilacs and Persian lilacs. It is sometimes called Rouen lilac.
• Himalayan lilac (S. villosa): Also called late lilac, this type has rose-like blossoms. It grows as tall as 10 feet (3 m.). Hungarian lilac (S. josikaea) is a similar species with darker flowers.

These common lilac varieties are only grown in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 or 4 through 7 because they need freezing winter temperatures to break dormancy and produce flowers. Beset by lilac envy, a southern California horticulturist developed varieties of lilac called Descanso hybrids. These hybrids grow and bloom reliably despite the warm winters of southern California. Among the best of the Descanso hybrids are:

• ‘Lavender Lady'
• ‘California Rose'
• ‘Blue Boy'
• ‘Angel White'

Lilac trees make beautiful additions to the home landscape, with flowers much like those on lilac shrubs but without the fragrance. These medium-sized trees are appropriate for most home landscapes and they make well-behaved street trees. Environmental factors are usually to blame when a lilac is shedding tree bark.

Causes for Lilac Bark Coming Off

In most cases, the damage from lilac bark shedding isn't serious. Young trees are more susceptible than older ones, but you may see the problem in trees of any age. Here are the most common causes of splitting or shedding bark: Rapid freeze and thaw cycles sometimes cause splitting and peeling bark on lilacs. This often happens at the site of a previous injury. Excessive late fall growth is a common culprit. This occurs with high temperatures or humidity in late fall. You will also see late fall growth spurts when you use too much nitrogen fertilizer late in the season. Dry weather followed by wet weather causes fluctuating growth, resulting in splits in the bark. Watering the tree during dry spells can help prevent this condition. Sunscald can cause unsightly bark damage. It may be the result of heavy pruning that allows harsh winter sunlight to filter through the canopy.

Other Reasons Why Lilac is Shedding Tree Bark

Peeling bark on lilacs doesn't always indicate a problem. Some cultivars, such as ‘Copper Curls' lilac, have ornamental peeling and curling bark. The irregular, bright orange curls are perfectly normal and part of what makes the tree interesting in winter. Probably the most serious problem to look for when lilac bark is coming off is the lilac borer moth. This inch long (2.5 cm.) moth looks like a wasp. Its larva bores into the base of branches, causing severe damage. The bark becomes swollen and eventually cracks and breaks away. Mild infestations can be treated with insecticide, but in severe cases, the tree should be removed. Now that you know what causes bark to peel on lilac trees, you're probably wondering how to treat the problem. Recent studies show that wound paints and sealers don't help the tree heal faster and may even slow the natural healing process. The best solution is to let the wound callous over naturally. While the wound heals, watch for insects that may infest the exposed wood and spread diseases. The injury may leave a scar, but natural scars often add character to the overall appearance of the tree.

There is nothing like the fragrance of lilac blossoms wafting through an open window to set the mood in your home, but is it safe to plant lilacs close to your foundation? Will the root system on lilac bushes infiltrate water and sewer lines? Read on to find out more about potential risks from lilac bush roots close to your home.

Root System on Lilac

Lilac roots aren't considered invasive and as long as you leave enough space between the tree, or shrub, and the structure, there is little risk from planting lilacs near foundations. Lilac roots generally spread one and one-half times the width of the shrub. A distance of 12 feet (4 m.) from the foundation is generally enough to prevent foundation damage.

Potential Damage from Lilac Roots

It's very unlikely that lilac bush roots will break through the side of a foundation. Damage usually occurs when lilac roots approach the base of the foundation under the soil. Since lilac root systems are shallow, they can only reach the base of shallow foundations. If you have a deep foundation, there is little risk of damage. Another condition for foundation damage from lilacs is a heavy soil, such as clay, that swells when wet and shrinks dramatically when dry. During periods of drought, the feeder roots pull a lot of moisture from the soil at the tips, causing it to shrink dramatically, and cracks in the foundation may occur. The soil swells again after a drenching rain, but the cracks in the foundation remain. In situations where the foundation is deep and the soil is light, there is little chance of damage to foundations, regardless of the distance between the foundation and the shrub. There is a small risk of damage from lilac roots to water and sewer lines. Lilac roots follow sources of nutrients and water along the path of least resistance. They are likely to penetrate water and sewer lines that leak, but unlikely to break sound pipes. If you've planted your lilac shrub 8 to 10 feet (2-3 m.) from water and sewer lines, however, there is little risk of damage, even if the pipes have cracks.

A Japanese tree lilac (Syringa reticulata) is at its best for two weeks in early summer when the flowers bloom. The clusters of white flowers are about a foot (31 cm.) long and 10 inches (25 cm.) wide. Though they don't have the heady scent of traditional lilacs, they do have a pleasant fragrance. The plant is available as a multi-stemmed shrub or a tree with a single trunk. Both forms have a lovely shape that looks great in shrub borders or as specimens.

Growing Japanese lilac trees near a window allows you to enjoy the flowers and fragrance indoors, but make sure you leave plenty of room for the tree's 20 foot (6 m.) spread. After the flowers fade, the tree produces seed capsules that attract songbirds to the garden.

What is a Japanese Lilac Tree?

Japanese lilacs are trees or very large shrubs that grow to a height of up to 30 feet (9 m.) with a spread of 15 to 20 feet (4.5-6 m.). The genus name Syringa means pipe, and refers to the plant's hollow stems. The species name reticulata refers to the network of veins in the leaves. The plant has a naturally attractive shape and interesting, reddish bark with white markings that give it year-round interest.

The trees bloom in clusters that are about 10 inches (25 cm.) wide and a foot (31 cm.) long. You might be reluctant to plant a flowering tree or shrub that takes up so much space in the garden and only blooms for two weeks, but the timing of the blossoms is an important consideration. It blooms at a time when most spring-bloomers are through for the year and summer-bloomers are still budding, thus filling in a gap when few other trees and shrubs are in flower.

The care of the Japanese lilac tree is easy because it maintains its lovely shape without extensive pruning. Grown as a tree, it only needs an occasional snip to remove damaged twigs and stems. As a shrub, it may need renewal pruning every few years.

Additional Japanese Lilac Information

Japanese tree lilacs are available as container grown or balled and burlapped plants at local garden centers and nurseries. If you order one by mail, you will probably get a bare root plant. Soak bare root trees in water for a few hours and then plant as soon as possible.

These trees are very easy to transplant and rarely suffer transplant shock. They tolerate urban pollution and thrive in any well-drained soil. Given a location in full sun, Japanese tree lilacs seldom suffer from insect and disease problems. Japanese tree lilacs are rated for USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 7.

If your lilac tree doesn't have fragrance, you're not alone. Believe it or not many people are troubled by the fact that some lilac flowers have no smell.

Why Don't My Lilacs Have a Scent?

When no smell from lilac bushes is apparent, it is usually due to one of two things—non-aromatic species or air temperature. Generally, common lilac (Syringa vulgaris), also known as old-fashioned lilac, possesses the strongest and most pleasing aroma of all lilac species. In fact, it's usually the medium to dark purple varieties that are the most fragrant. However, there are some species of lilac that either do not have a strong smell or any at all. For instance, some varieties of white lilac are actually known to be unscented. These include both single- and double-white varieties. In addition, many lilacs (including the most aromatic species) don't smell as much when it's too cold or damp. During these conditions, which are common in spring when lilacs are blooming, you may notice that your lilac flowers have no smell. Once it warms up, however, they will begin putting out rich, perfume-like scents.

Why Lilacs are More Fragrant in Warm Weather

The best time to smell lilacs (as well as many other flowers) is during warm weather. The aromatic particles that you normally inhale are only recognized as scents during warm days with moist, stable air. When it's too hot and dry or too cold and damp, these aromatic particles will quickly disappear because they are unable to rise. Therefore, the scent of lilac is strongest during mid-spring (May/June) when the air temperature rises just enough to vaporize their aromatic particles, allowing us to take in their intoxicating aroma. Since lilacs bloom for short periods, you can get the most out of their scent by planting several varieties that bloom at different intervals. While most lilacs are abundant with pleasing scents, keep in mind that there may be little to no smell from lilac bushes depending on the species and air temperature.

Lilacs are magical shrubs. For most of the year they sit innocuously, blending in with the greenery. But for a couple weeks in May, they explode into clusters of flowers that give off one of the most intense and enchanting scents you could ever hope to find in a garden.

Those couple of weeks make the whole year worthwhile, so it's incredibly unnerving to watch May tick away with no flowers in sight. What could be keeping your lilac from blooming? There are a few possible causes. Let's dive deeper into this important aspect of lilac care.

Reasons a Lilac Bush Won't Bloom

There are several possible reasons for no flowers on a lilac bush. Here are the most likely causes, and an explanation of how to correct them.

1. Improper Pruning

If your lilac isn't flowering the most likely culprit is improper pruning. When pruning lilacs, timing is key. Lilacs bloom on last year’s growth, so it’s important to prune them immediately after they’ve finished blooming in spring. If you wait until summer, fall, or winter to prune a lilac, you could be removing buds that would otherwise bloom the following spring.

Try to do just a light pruning right after the spring bloom. A hard prune will delay the next bloom, so just thin out the oldest and thickest branches, and trim inner branches to allow sunlight to penetrate through the bush.

2. Age

How long have you had your lilac bush? Is it big enough that it's really more of a tree by now? A lilac’s best blooming takes place on younger wood, so if your bush is mostly old growth there's simply less of a percentage of places for flowers to bloom. You may need to do a rejuvenation pruning and wait two or three years to let it come back to full bloom.

3. Not Enough Sun

Lilacs want full sun, which means about six hours a day of sunshine. Even if your lilac is in partial shade, it’s not going to do as well, so be sure other trees aren’t blocking its sun.

4. Improper Watering

Mulching around your lilac helps to control weeds and keeps the roots from drying out. In dry weather, it’s important to water a lilac regularly. However, lilacs thrive in well-draining soil and don’t like soggy, wet roots.

5. Too Much Fertilizer

If you’re fertilizing your non-blooming lilac, stop! Over-fertilized lilacs will grow lots of luscious greenery, but won’t give you the flowering you’re hoping for. Lightly fertilize lilacs once in the spring, then leave it at that. If you’re regularly fertilizing other plants or fertilizing a nearby lawn, your lilac may be getting more food than it wants. Adding phosphorus, like an application of bone meal, to your lilac’s soil will help.

6. Pests

Lilacs can be subject to scale insects and borers. Examine your bush’s leaves and stems to determine whether you need to do a renewal pruning. Cutting away the problem areas will usually resolve the problem.

Lilac Care Essentials

What if My Lilac Never Flowers?

There are several lilac cultivars that won’t bless you with blooms for five or more years after planting. If you have a young lilac, patience may be your only solution until the bush matures and grows strong enough to produce blossoms.

Even dwarf varieties can take up to a couple years to work up a bloom, so nurturing and providing the proper support for your lilac while it’s young will pay off later.

How and where you initially place your lilac bush is the best insurance for beautiful blooms, so plan ahead for a sunny, well-drained spot, and stay on top of spring pruning for beautiful, fragrant lilac blooms every year.

Learning how to prune a lilac bush is one of the keys to growing strong, healthy shrubs that look good and bloom every year. Lilacs aren't delicate or needy, but pruning them the right way is how you make them shine.

Lilacs are shrubs for all seasons. They're hardy, vigorous and intensely fragrant. Their blooms appear in late spring, generally in mid-May, and perfume the entire garden. Their height and foliage make them perfect for tall, flowering screens for summer and autumn.

To keep growing lilacs that look their best for many years to come, you need to prune them. Let's take a look at how and when to trim lilac bushes for beautiful, healthy shrubs that produce tons of blooms.

Do You Need to Prune Lilac Bushes?

Learning the basics of pruning is important to growing almost any shrub, but it's especially true for lilacs. These classic spring-blooming bushes require regular pruning to look their best. Lilacs are relatively fast growing shrubs, and if left to their own devices they can get leggy and sparse.

The lower branches of lilacs often get shaded out by upper growth, which makes the lower leaves fall off. The result is a top-heavy shrub with a thin looking bottom. This is fine if you want your lilac to take on more of a tree shape, but if you want it to be more of a classic, full shrub, you'll have to break out the pruners.

Pruning lilac bushes on a regular basis also keeps them from becoming too tall. Although there are smaller varieties that grow from 10 to 15 feet (3-4.5 m) tall, many lilacs can reach heights of about 30 feet (9 m) tall without regular pruning. That's quite the size for something you probably planted as an accent plant next to your house!

When to Prune a Lilac Shrub

Want to know when to prune a lilac shrub? It's a good question. If your lilac is very young, it's best to let it fill out on its own for a few years – most lilacs don’t need pruning until they're about 6 to 8 feet (2-2.5 m) tall.

The best time for pruning lilacs is spring, immediately after flowers have faded. Don't wait until summer! Lilacs set next year's flowers on this season's growth. If you prune them too late, you'll be lopping off potential flowers. Pruning shrubs too late can kill young developing buds and it's one of the most common reasons why a lilac won't bloom.

If you're doing a light pruning or a hard rejuvenation pruning, just after flowering is still the right time to do it. New shoots will develop during the regular growing season as long as there are a few healthy shoots left. Once the growing season has ended, remove any unsightly shoots.

The exception to this rule is when you use the three-year rejuvenation or renovation pruning plan, which we'll get into later. This kind of drastic pruning should be done in late winter. With renovation pruning you remove entire stems, so losing the flower buds becomes less important.

How to Prune a Lilac Bush

Many flowering shrubs bloom best on new growth, and lilacs are one of them. The older the branch, the fewer flowers it’s likely to produce. So pruning every year, even lightly, is an essential part of their annual maintenance if you want lots of blooms.

When pruning lilacs, heading back or just cutting the tops off of overgrown stems is often not enough. It’s generally better to cut the entire stem. Always trim lilacs with clean clippers. Remove spent blooms all the way to the stems to prevent seeding and encourage more blooms.

Cut back a third of the branches. Prune out any shoots growing near the ground that are sprouting from the main trunk. In order to improve air circulation or to allow more light to filter through, trimming lilacs within the inner branches may also be necessary.

Regular Maintenance Pruning

Annual pruning keeps lilacs healthy and lovely. The idea is to remove one or two of the oldest stems near to the ground. Keep in mind that the shrub should have a fountain shape rather than having many stems on one side and few on the other. The look should be balanced with equal weight on either side.

Once you trim the lower branches, use thinning cuts to prune the bush. This type of pruning starts at the top of the bush. Cut close to where one branch meets or crosses another to let light and air pass through. Cut out all dead or damaged stems.

Rejuvenation Pruning

If you’ve inherited an overgrown shrub or just let yours become lanky, it may be time for rejuvenation pruning. You can do this over three years and change them into vigorous, attractive plants. Think of this as a three-year pruning cycle.

The first year, prune back the lilac shrub by cutting out one third of the largest, thickest stems. Cut these in late winter or early spring, making the cut close to the ground. Take the time to trim out any dead or unhealthy branches. The second winter, remove another one third of the stems. The third year, trim back the final third of thick branches.

You can also use this three-year plan for maintenance pruning. If you start when shrubs are young, simply continue the cycle every year. This will keep down the height of the shrub since the heaviest, thickest stems are also often the tallest ones. Gradually remove them to bring down the overall height of the shrub.

Renovation Pruning

Here’s a more drastic way to renovate an overgrown lilac shrub. Renovation pruning means cutting the entire bush back significantly. This should be done in late winter. Make the stem cuts some 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) off the ground.

While you won't have flowers during that growing season, many shoots will develop after this pruning. The following winter you can select a handful of the strongest shoots to provide a new framework for the old shrub.

Lilac Pruning Essentials

The common lilac (Syringa vulgaris) is one of the most beloved garden shrubs. Its heady scent fills the air each spring and its glorious flowers in shades of purple, pink, and white delight the eye. These spectacular spring flowering bushes are classics because of their easy-to-grow nature and charming, fragrant blooms.

Although the flowers are stunning in spring, during the rest of the year lilac bushes are generally unremarkable. However, they do make good fillers in the backdrop of the garden. They can create shade around a patio or provide privacy when planted as a hedgerow at the perimeter of your yard.

The key to growing great lilacs that will beautify your landscape for many decades is the proper care. Let’s take a look at how to grow these lovely shrubs in your garden.

Lilac Varieties

The common lilac (Syringa vulgaris) is the one we see the most often and the one we'll be focusing on below. It is an upright plant that grows quite large, typically around 8 feet (2.5 m) or larger and blooms in spring. However, there are different lilac varieties, which range from dwarf shrubs that are only a few feet tall to trees that can reach heights up to 30 feet (9 m).

For a classic lilac that blooms longer than the old-fashioned varieties, our gardening experts—and butterflies—love the ‘Bloomerang Dark Purple’ lilac. Its dramatic violet flowers rebloom for months, rather than weeks like most varieties.

Meyer lilacs (S. meyeri) and Manchurian lilacs, also known as Korean lilacs, (S. pubescens subsp. patula) are two smaller shrub form varieties. ‘Miss Kim’ is the most well-known cultivar of Manchurian lilac. It's a favorite among many gardeners for its compact size and delicate lavender blooms.

There are also tree lilacs, like the Japanese tree lilac (S. reticulata) and Pekin lilac (S. pekinensis) which both have large, creamy white blooms. Within these different varieties there are numerous cultivars, with varying bloom times and flower colors to suit every garden design.

Lilac Care

Lilacs are low-maintenance shrubs. Care for these bushes is generally minimal, other than regular pruning. However, planting lilacs in the right location, watering them properly, and learning how to prevent common pests and diseases are also key. We’ll discuss how to do all this, plus how to propagate lilacs and choose the right variety for your yard.

How & When to Plant Lilac Bushes

Spring or fall is the best time for planting and transplanting lilac bushes. Situate the lilac with its roots spread vertically in the ground and make the hole both deep and wide enough to accommodate them. If planting more than one lilac bush, space them at least 5 feet (1.5 m) apart to prevent overcrowding, even if you plan to use them as hedges for privacy.

Choose an area with plenty of afternoon sun and well-drained soil. Since lilacs prefer good drainage, planting lilac bushes in slightly elevated areas is recommended whenever possible.

Following planting lilac bushes, water them thoroughly and add a layer of loose mulch. Keep the mulch thick enough to keep out weeds and retain some moisture but light enough not to hold too much.

Light

The growing habit of lilacs is rangy and straggly, and it is even more so in low sun conditions. For the best blooms and most robust growth, plant lilacs in full sun or a location with at least six hours of sunlight per day.

Water

Lilacs have moderate water needs. When you first plant a lilac bush, it is important to keep it moist. For the first year, water when the top inch ( 2.5 cm) of the soil is dry or about one inch (2.5 cm) of water per week. Water deeply to help establish strong roots. The Flexi Hose Expandable Garden Hose from Amazon will help you to reach the Lilac and give it all the water it needs.

Older, established plants can withstand brief drought periods, but plants produce the best growth with regular watering. However, they do not like their roots to become saturated.

Temperature & Humidity

Lilacs prefer temperatures of 60-75 degrees Fahrenheit ( 16-24 C) during the growing season. But they need a long period of winter chilling for flower buds to form. This is an important part of winter care for lilacs. There are a few “low chill” lilac cultivars. But for the most part, these bushes do best in northern and temperate climates in USDA zones 3-7.

Lilacs do not like high humidity and fungal diseases can be a concern in humid locations. A relative humidity range under 60 percent is ideal.

Soil

Although lilacs tolerate a range of soil types, they prefer well-drained, humus-rich soil with a neutral to alkaline pH. If your soil is acidic, add lime prior to planting. Work compost into the soil to help create a suitable planting site for lilacs. Take the time to make the soil exactly what the plant needs before planting to give the bush the best start.

If you're unsure how acidic your soil is, you can buy kits like the RapidTest Soil Test Kit from Amazon that'll quickly and accurately measure the soil.

Lilacs can take quite some time to establish and don't like competitive plants nearby. Be sure to keep this in mind when choosing companion plants for lilacs.

Fertilizer

Frequent use of fertilizers is not typically a necessary part of lilac care. However, fertilizing lilac bushes in early spring may help give blooms a boost. Be sure not to add too much nitrogen, though, or you will get lots of green growth but insufficient flowers.

Use a balanced fertilizer in early spring. Lilacs are not heavy feeders, so use half the recommended amount. Sprinkle around the root zone, taking care to keep the granules off the leaves and stems. Lightly scratch the granules into the soil and water the fertilizer in well.

Problems, Pests & Diseases

There aren’t too many common problems with lilac bushes, but some insect pests, such as borers, do occasionally bother shrubs. Keep an eye out for any signs of pest problems and treat them immediately.

In many cases, spraying with soapy water or a homemade insecticidal soap spray is enough to get rid of pests. However, if heavy infestations occur, you may need to prune the entire plant. Pruning is important for lilac care. Keeping bushes well-pruned will also prevent the chance of disease, such as powdery mildew on lilacs.

Pruning

Pruning lilacs is one of the biggest parts of caring for them. They will get scraggly and rangy without intervention. However, if you prune at the wrong time, you might end up asking, “Why isn’t my lilac blooming?”

Lilacs produce flower buds in midsummer for the next year. If you cut off those buds, you will sacrifice flowers come spring. Prune lilacs immediately after flowering to avoid this issue. You can prune out dead or diseased branches anytime, but leave shaping for just after flowering.

Don’t shear lilac bushes when pruning. If you want to control the size of your shrub, it’s best to cut the oldest branches all the way back to the ground every 3 to 5 years. Cut back about a third of the shrub each year for three years to fully rejuvenate your lilac.

Propagation

The easiest method of propagating lilacs is via softwood cuttings. Take your cutting in the morning sometime between late May and early July. Cut off a 6 inch (15 cm) section of this year’s new growth.

Next, remove the bottom leaves and dunk the cut end into rooting hormone. Shake off the excess and plant the cutting in pre-moistened soilless medium. Cover the cutting and container with a clear plastic wrap or lid to hold in the moisture and help your cutting root faster.

Lilacs are typically clump-forming, producing new shoots from the base of the trunk. You can also use these shoots to propagate lilac bushes. Dig down from the main clump, exposing the roots, and cut the shoot away from the mother plant. Make sure you include roots. Then simply plant the shoot in a suitable location, watering regularly like a new transplant until it takes hold.

Repotting

If you have a smaller garden or only a patio, it is possible to grow lilacs in containers and enjoy their fragrant spring blooms. Some of the smaller cultivars of lilac make excellent container plants.

You will need to water and fertilize lilacs in pots more often than plants you grow in the garden. Each spring, give potted lilacs a dose of fertilizer to renew their nutrients. Water plants weekly during the growing season, especially during hot weather.

Repot lilacs every two years. Select a container that is just a bit larger than the previous pot. Fill it a third of the way with good potting soil. Take the lilac out of its old container and inspect the roots.

Prune out any roots that look damaged or moldy, then fan out the roots in the bottom of the new pot. Add more soil as needed so the plant will sit at the same level it was in its old container. Backfill around the roots and water the pot well to settle the soil.

Frequently Asked Questions

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