Lasagna, that most delicious of layered dishes, isn’t just for the kitchen. In gardening parlance, it describes a simple, practical, and frankly genius way to plant bulbs. If you’ve had a beautiful pot of flowers bloom for two weeks only to quickly fade and turn into a bucket of green stems, this lily lasagna bulb planting project is for you. It’s the ultimate way for lily lovers to maximize every square inch of a patio or balcony.

By layering your bulbs strategically, you create a succession of superstar blooms, each equally dramatic and lovely. As one variety fades, the next is pushing through to take its place in the spotlight. Lasagna planting is a layering strategy that mimics shifts in seasons. A typical container lasagna recipe involves three distinct layers. The deepest layer consists of the latest-blooming flowers, those heavy-hitters that need the most time to develop. The second layer is for the mid-season stars, and the top layer is reserved for the early birds that kick off the show early doors.

Because this extended flowering bonanza is contained in a single vessel, it’s a dream if you have a small yard, or you're a little time-starved. Plant once, water regularly, and enjoy a changing display for months. Lasagna planting suits most flowering bulbs, but March is the time to plant bulbs for lasagnas to provide key razzle-dazzle over summer. This special recipe for layering lily bulbs gives a coordinated explosion of color and fragrance. Whatever your ability level, time restrictions, or space challenges, the lily lasagna is foolproof. Here’s how to layer lily bulbs for a continuous display of gorgeous and heavenly scented blooms.

Why Try Lasagna Planting Lily Bulbs?

When planting bulbs, many gardeners simply dig them into beds to a depth of a few inches – sometimes mixing types, sometimes using one type only. This traditional method usually results in a spectacular but short-lived pop-up style of color. Once the bloom is over, the show is done. Layered or lasagna planting changes the game by allowing you to enjoy subsequent blooms throughout the entire season.

This continuous blooming is the primary benefit, but lasagna planting is also about spatial efficiency. For those of us dealing with smaller urban gardens or balconies, we don't have the luxury of resting a flower bed. We need every pot to work hard. This lily plant based lasagne allows you to pack three times the flower power into the same footprint. It also acts as a built-in support system; as the taller, later-blooming Oriental lily varieties grow, their sturdy stems help support the earlier varieties.

For the lazy gardener, the benefits are even better. You are basically front-loading all your labor. Instead of having to remember to plant every few weeks (by succession planting), you can do it all in one afternoon this month. You just need to ensure your container is large enough to handle the root mass. A pot that is too small can lead to bulb competition, where the plants struggle for nutrients. Aim for a pot at least 14-16 inches (35-40 cm) deep to give everyone enough breathing room.

Source Your Summer Lilies

You don't need loads of tools for this project – just the biggest spare container you can find with a good drainage hole, some potting mix, and possibly a sieve for making sure all your container soil is nicely sifted. However, make sure you pick the right combination of early-summer, mid-summer and late-summer bulbs for this lily lasagne container project.

There's plenty of choice when selecting summer-flowering bulbs for this exquisite triple-layer of lily perfection, which is guaranteed to turn heads all summer long. But if you're stuck for lily inspiration to suit container life, maybe these summer stunners can tempt you?

Perfect Lily Lasagne Bulb Trio

Easy Lily Lasagne Recipe

While lilies are often planted in the fall, planting them in early spring (specifically March) is a fantastic way to ensure they bloom with vigor in the coming months. The secret to a successful lily lasagna isn't just about the bulbs, though – it’s also about the internal ingredients. So give some thought to your base, drainage, and soil blend.

Lilies hate wet feet. If their bulbs sit in soggy soil, they will rot before they ever see the sun. If you’re using a container, make sure it has substantial drainage holes at the bottom. You also need a lightweight potting mix that drains well. Look for something lightweight that contains perlite or vermiculite, or add some. Sta-Green Perlite from Lowe’s helps to boost drainage and foster healthy roots.

For an extra boost when growing lilies in containers, I like to mix in a handful of bone meal or a specific bulb starter fertilizer into the soil before I start layering. You can buy Back to the Roots Organic Bone Meal from Amazon. This gives the roots immediate access to the phosphorus they need for strong development.

Bottom Lasagna Layer: Oriental Lilies

These are the divas of the lily world – the late summer bloomers that strive to save the best for last. Many varieties flower in August and will be the final act of your showy lily lasagna. When selecting your bottom layer, look for Oriental lily varieties like the pink-speckled ‘Rubrum’ or the iconic white ‘Casablanca’ lily.

Start by filling the bottom 4 inches (10 cm) of your pot with your prepared soil. Place your Oriental bulbs pointy-side up, 6-8 inches (15 to 20 cm) below the surface of the soil or container. Because these will grow the tallest, they need the most anchor space. Space them 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) apart. Cover with 3 inches (8 cm) of soil, firming down gently to remove large air pockets.

Middle Layer: Oriental-Trumpet Hybrids

Your next layer goes right over the top of the soil you just packed. These are the Orienpets, hybrids designed for strength and size. They usually bloom in mid-summer, bridging the gap between the early and late varieties. As an alternative to the suggested recipe above, try ‘Golden Splendor’ or majestic ‘Pink Perfection.’

When placing this second layer, try to stagger the bulbs. Don't plant bulbs directly on top of the ones below. Instead, place in the gaps between the lower bulbs. This ensures the stems have a clear path to the surface without knocking into their neighbors. Cover this layer with another 2-3 inches (5-8 cm) of soil.Cover them with another two inches of soil.

Top Lasagna Layer: Asiatic Lilies

Asiatic lilies are the sprinters, and represent your early-summer bloomers. They grow fast and bloom early (late June to July). Because they are generally shorter, they won't overshadow later blooms once their time is up. Varieties like black-purple ‘Night Flyer’ or burgundy-and-orange ‘Forever Susan’ add incredible drama. Also look for double-petalled varieties like ‘Spring Pink’ and orange ‘Cocktail Twins.’

These bulbs sit closest to the surface, about 3-4 inches (8-10 cm) down. Again, stagger them so they aren't sitting directly over the middle-layer bulbs. Once they are placed, fill the rest of the pot with soil, leaving about an inch of headroom at the top of the pot so water doesn't overflow when you're hydrating your lilies.

Caring for Your Lily Lasagne

Once your bulbs are tucked in, the real magic happens underground. But to ensure a successful summer, keep these tips in mind. Most lilies are sun-seekers, so aim for a spot with full sun (at least 6 hours) for the best results. Lilies love cool feet and a hot head. If you can, place your pot where the container itself is slightly shaded by other plants or a low wall, while the lily stems grow upward into the bright sunshine.

Watering is key. Keep the soil consistently moist, but never waterlogged. A deep watering once a week is usually sufficient, though in the heat of July, you may need to check daily. To prevent root rot, I swear by pot risers like Bosmere Pot Toes from Amazon. These tiny lifts keep your container off the ground, ensuring that water flows freely out of the drainage holes and doesn't pool at the bottom of the lasagna.

When growing lilies in containers, you’ll also need a balanced liquid fertilizer every two weeks through the spring to keep these heavy feeders happy and healthy. Once flower buds appear, switch to a bloom-booster that is higher in phosphorus and potassium to encourage massive, waxy blooms. Fertilizers designed for tomato plants are a great option. You can buy Lilly Miller Bulb & Bloom from Amazon for a slow-release feed that ensures vibrant colors.

Deadheading is vital. As soon as a flower fades, snip it off. As well as keeping the pot looking tidy, this prevents the plant wasting energy on seed production and keeps the energy in the bulb for next year’s show. Just be sure to leave the green stem and leaves intact until they turn yellow in the fall. Use precision snips like Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon to make clean, sharp cuts at the base of the flower without damaging buds from the next layer up.

Finally, a word on squirrels, which find lily bulbs delicious. If you have local diggers, use some chicken wire or hardware cloth, like Garden Craft Chicken Wire from Lowe’s. Place over the top of the soil immediately after planting. You can mulch right over it, and the lily stems will grow through the gaps while keeping the critters out. Once the plants are a few inches tall, the bulbs are usually safe!

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One tiny speck of lily pollen brushed onto a cat’s fur—or a quick sip from vase water—can trigger sudden, severe kidney failure with almost no room for error if help comes late.

Gardeners adore true lilies for those bold trumpets and sweet scent that fill summer beds without much fuss. Cat owners, though, pause hard before planting. Check solid lists of plants toxic to cats first. Anyone still set on growing lilies often ends up fencing the patch but it's best to skip them altogether

The word “lily” is used for all sorts of plants, and that muddies everything. Risks range from deadly to just plain irritating. Fast vet trips make the difference when curiosity gets the better of your feline friend. Let's explore the dangers of true lilies for cats and what plants are safe to have instead.

Are Lilies Toxic to Cats?

Yes, certain lilies prove highly toxic, hitting the kidneys hard and fast. Cats unknowingly process the toxins differently from dogs, leading to rapid failure that can turn fatal without prompt vet care.

Symptoms start mild—vomiting, drooling, lethargy—but progress quickly. Even licking pollen off fur or sipping vase water delivers enough poison. It takes a bit for full effects to show, often 12 to 24 hours, then kidneys shut down within days if untreated.

If you think your cat has come into contact with a lily, please call your vet immediately or contact ASPCA Poison Control at (888) 426-4435.

What Happens If a Cat Ingests Lily Parts?

The toxin attacks kidney tubules directly. Early signs include appetite loss and more vomiting. By day two or three, urination stops, and the cat becomes severely ill.

Treatment involves aggressive fluids and supportive care, sometimes for days. Vets induce vomiting if caught super early, but most cases need hospitalization. Pollen is powdery and sticky, easy for cats to groom into their systems after brushing against blooms.

What Are the Worst Lilies for Cats?

True lilies from the Lilium genus top the danger list—Asiatic, Easter, Stargazer, tiger, and oriental lily varieties. All parts contain the toxin, no exceptions. The specific nephrotoxin has not been fully isolated or characterized.

Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.) match that severity, common in borders and escaping notice in bouquets. These cause the same kidney crisis, even from a single petal or leaf nibble. Skip them entirely around cats.

Are Any Lilies Safe for Cats?

Not entirely, but some don't pose the severe kidney threat. Peace lilies cause mouth irritation from calcium oxalate crystals, leading to drooling and vomiting, yet rarely escalate.

Calla lilies work the same way—painful burning in the mouth and throat, possible swelling, but no organ failure. Peruvian lilies (Alstroemeria) might upset the stomach mildly. Still, keep them out of reach.

Cat-Safe Alternatives to Lilies

In outdoor plantings, blazing star, yellow coneflowers, and snapdragons will serve the same purpose as toxic daylilies. They have beautiful, vibrant flowers that add a vertical element to your landscaping and spread a bit for good ground cover.

There are also plenty of cat-safe plants that will look just as lovely as a lily in your home. Brightly-colored bromeliads, delicate moth orchids, and sweetly-scented hoya vines are great alternatives to grow instead.

Interested in more pet-safe houseplants? The carefully curated pet-friendly plants collection from Lively Root is a great place to start if you are looking to introduce more plants but have cats or dogs in your home.

Cat owners can still enjoy flowers, just not lilies of the deadly kind. Stick to vetted safe blooms, ban true lilies and daylilies from the property, and watch bouquets closely. Quick vet visits turn scary moments around—better safe than sorry with these beauties.

Frequently Asked Questions

Caring for Easter lilies indoors prolongs the life of this gorgeous plant. To get additional blooms and extend its life well beyond the Easter season, take good care of it inside and then plant it outdoors.

About Easter Lilies

The Easter lily (Lilium longiflorum) is native to southern Japan. Westerners discovered it in the 1800s and it became a popular cultivated plant, eventually becoming a symbol of the Easter holiday.

Today, in the U.S., just a handful of farms in the Pacific Northwest cultivate these plants for commercial sale. They grow the lilies and ship them to greenhouses where they are forced to bloom out of season and in time for Easter. Naturally they would bloom in summer.

While Easter lilies add a delicate and striking beauty to spring decorations, keep in mind that it is highly toxic to cats. Even a small amount of pollen can be deadly. If you have cats in the home, it’s best to avoid this plant entirely.

How Long Do Easter Lilies Last?

Many people buy these flowers as temporary decoration for the holidays and dispose of them after the blooms fade. An Easter lily can be a perennial if you take good care of it indoors, and plant it outside after the last frost.

Do Easter Lilies Rebloom Indoors?

Unfortunately, Easter lilies do not make good year-round houseplants. They do not rebloom indoors. The blooms you get in spring are carefully planned and forced. To get more flowers from your plant, it’s best to put it outside where it can potentially give you years of summer blooms.

Easter Lily Indoor Care

In order to get additional life and flowers from an Easter lily outdoors, you need to take good care of it indoors. Treat your temporary Easter décor well and it will continue to bloom for you in years to come. Start with a healthy plant. When choosing an Easter lily from the store, look for dense green foliage. Avoid plants that have been soaked with water or look a little wilted. Also avoid those with a protective sleeve still in place. These should be removed immediately as the plants arrive at the store.

Choose a spot inside that provides bright but indirect light. A cooler room is best. Easter lilies prefer daytime temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit (15.5 to 18.3 Celsius) and a little cooler at night. Avoid locations with drafts or heat from radiators or heaters.

Make sure the container drains well and water the lily when the surface of the soil is dry. To water, remove any decorative cover and soak the soil completely. Let the water drain out and repeat a few times. Let it drain fully before replacing the cover.

To keep your lily attractive as it blooms, remove the yellow anthers. The pollen stains leaves, tablecloths and fingers. Snip off the flowers as they fade.

What to Do with Easter Lily After it Blooms

After you have removed all the spent flowers, leave your lily indoors until the last frost of the season. Until then, keep it in its perfect location and continue to water regularly.

Find a sunny spot outside to plant the bulb. Make sure the soil drains well, and add rich organic material. Plant the Easter lily bulb to a depth of about six inches (15 cm.), including a layer of mulch to a depth of about two inches (5 cm). Surround the plant with a good layer of mulch to retain moisture and keep the roots cool.

Cut back the plant’s leaves as they brown and die, and look for new growth. You should see new growth this first season, but don’t expect to get a second round of flowers. The plant is unlikely to bloom again until the following summer. Cut back the leaves and stems in fall as they fade and yellow. Add extra mulch in winter and remove some of it in spring to allow new growth to emerge. Use a balanced fertilizer in spring and until it blooms.

An Easter lily can provide years of pretty flowers. It’s important to care for it well during its brief life as a houseplant so that it will thrive outdoors in a perennial bed.

The Madonna lily flower is a striking, white bloom that grows from bulbs. The planting and care of these bulbs are a little different from other lilies though. Make sure you understand the particular needs of Madonna lilies so you can nurture a spectacular show of spring flowers next year.

Growing Madonna Lilies

Madonna lily (Lilium candidum) is one of the oldest cultivated varieties of lily. The stunning blooms on this plant are pure white, trumpet-shaped, and between 2 and 3 inches (5-7.5 cm.) long. The bright yellow pollen in the center of each flower contrasts strikingly with the white petals.

You’ll get lots of these pretty flowers too, as Madonna lily is known as a prolific bloomer. Expect up to 20 per stem. In addition to the visual display, these flowers emit a delightful fragrance.

Enjoy this lily in flower beds, rock gardens, or as a border. Since they smell so lovely, it’s nice to grow these flowers close to an outdoor seating area. They make great cut flowers for arrangements as well.

How to Care for Madonna Lily Bulbs

Madonna lily bulbs should be planted in early fall but require different handling compared to those of other lily varieties and species.

First, find a spot that will get full sun or partial shade. These lilies do especially well if they get some protection from the midday sun.

The soil should be close to neutral, so amend it with lime if your soil is too acidic. These flowers will also require a lot of nutrients, so add compost.

Plant the bulbs to a depth of just one inch (2.5 cm.), much shallower than you would plant other lily bulbs. Space them about 6 to 12 inches (15-30.5 cm.) apart.

Once they emerge in spring, Madonna lily care is not difficult. Just make sure you keep the soil moist without creating standing water or letting the roots get soggy. Once flowering is finished, by about midsummer, let the leaves turn yellow then cut them back.

The creation of multi-dimensional flower beds allows gardeners to create landscapes that are alluring to visitors for both their bright colors and heavenly fragrance. Though several species of flowers are highly perfumed, among the most common are those belonging to the Lilium genus.

Due to their popularity, lilies are often some of the first flowers introduced by those wishing to include the element of fragrance into the ornamental border. Though lilies do vary subtly by species, most produce large showy blooms on tall upright stems. Rubrum lilies are an excellent option for those wishing to enjoy a profusion of fragrant blooms late in the growing season.

What is a Rubrum Lily?

Hardy to USDA growing zones 5 to 7, Rubrum lily bulbs produce large clusters of dark pink flowers with even darker colored pink spots. Commonly mistaken for the Stargazer lily, these flowers bloom with a unique downward facing habit.

Those growing Rubrum lilies cite its use as a late bloomer, adding stunning visual interest to the end of summer garden. Reaching a mature size of 5 foot (1.5 m.), these lilies are at home in the back of borders and/or in showy mass plantings.

Growing Rubrum Lilies

Rubrum lily bulbs can be planted in either early spring or fall in suitable growing zones. Before planting, those growing Rubrum lilies should select a site which receives part sun and drains well. Though the bulbs are adaptable to many soil types, the plants will grow best in locations which are slightly acidic.

Like all types of lilies, it will be important to remember that Rubrum lily bulbs and plant parts are toxic. Locations frequented by children and/or pets should be considered more carefully before planting.

Beyond planting, Rubrum lily care is minimal. Strong, supportive flower stems generally do not require staking. After blooming has ceased, the spent blooms can be deadheaded and removed from the garden.

Those growing Rubrum lilies should leave foliage in the garden intact. Doing so will help to ensure that the Rubrum lily bulbs are able to store enough energy for return in subsequent growing seasons.

Overall, Rubrum lily care is relatively simple and these plants will continue to reward gardeners with beautiful blooms for many years to come.

Bright, graceful, and sometimes fragrant, lily flowers are an easy-care asset to a garden. The lily bloom time is different for various species, but all true lilies will flower between spring and fall. Whether you’ve planted lily bulbs recently or are waiting for your old favorites to flower, you may be wondering just how long until lilies bloom in the garden, especially if yours have not yet opened. Read on for information on the bloom time for lily plants.

About Lily Flowers

Many plants with trumpet-shaped flowers are called lilies, but only those in the Lilium genus are true lilies. The most popular of these in the garden are Asiatic lilies and Oriental lilies.

The number one spot probably goes to Asiatic lily flowers, recognizable by their upward-facing blooms on stalks that rise to 5 feet (a little over 1 m.). These hybrid plants come in many colors and often have darker “freckles.” They are easy to care for and multiply quickly.

Oriental lilies are the flamboyant rock stars of the lily clan with huge, fragrant flowers in white, pink, and scarlet. The flower stalks can grow to 6 feet (1.5 m.) tall.

When Do Lilies Bloom?

True lilies bloom at different times between spring and fall. If you give some thought to lily bloom times when selecting bulbs, you can plant a selection that will keep your garden in bloom all summer long.

Exactly when do lilies bloom? Asiatic lilies lead off the pack, opening their pretty flowers in mid-to-late spring. The flowers last a long time in the garden, often well into summer. Bloom time for this lily also applies to double Asiatic lilies and Martagon lilies.

The bloom time for lilies in the Oriental group starts just as the Asiatic lilies are fading. These sweetly scented lily flowers open in mid-to-late summer. Oriental-Asiatic hybrids tend to bloom in mid-season, while Oriental and double Oriental are late season lilies.

If you select a site protected from wind and afternoon sun, the blooms may last a few weeks or longer.

How Long Until Lilies Bloom?

If the months pass and you are still waiting for those lilies to bloom, all is not necessarily lost. Newly planted bulbs sometimes don’t bloom at all the first growing season but will do just fine starting in year two.

Older lilies might not perform on schedule either. In time, lilies just run out of steam and stop producing flowers. This is especially true if too many bulbs are crowded together underground. Sometimes, small mammals will also snack on the bulbs, putting them out of commission.

Note that not all plants called lilies are in the Lilium clan, including plants like daylilies, peace lilies, and calla lilies. Each of these plants will have their own specific bloom times.

A truly astounding plant, Asiatic lilies are a flower lovers prize garden denizen. Propagating Asiatic lily is commercially done by bulb, but if you have patience, you can save money and grow them from division, seed, or even leaves. This fascinating plant is very versatile in its reproduction and grows asexually or sexually. That leaves a lot of options for the intrepid gardener. Try reproducing Asiatic lilies in any one of these ways for a fun, interesting project that will yield more of the magical blooms.

How to Propagate Asiatic Lily Plants

Asiatic lily is probably one of the most recognized of the lilies. Its impactful flowers and tall, elegant stems pack a real punch in the perennial flower garden. Asiatic lily propagation from seed is time consuming and may take two to six years to develop flowers. A quicker method to increase your stock of these plants is by division. A vegetative method using leaves is also possible but takes some serious patience.

Seed Propagating Asiatic Lilies

Lilies come in different germination levels, but Asiatic forms are fairly easy to sprout. Pick pods in September and allow them to dry thoroughly. When pods are dry, crack them open and separate the seeds, discarding the chaff. Sow seed in potting soil that has been pre-moistened, 1 inch apart (2.5 cm.) with a fine dust of ½ inch (1 cm.) of soil over them. Pat the soil onto the seed gently. Within four to six weeks, seeds should sprout. Keep them lightly moist and give young plants 14 hours of light per day. Every 14 days, feed with liquid fertilizer diluted by half. When seedlings become dormant, repot them into slightly larger containers to grow on.

Asiatic Lily Propagation from Division

Reproducing Asiatic lilies by division is the fastest and easiest method of propagation. Wait until the lilies are dormant and dig up the cluster. Dig several inches (8 cm.) around the base of the plant. Remove the excess dirt and pull apart the small bulbs. Make sure each has a nice amount of root attached. Plant the divisions immediately or place them in plastic bags with moistened peat moss in the refrigerator until spring. Plant new bulbs 12 inches (31 cm.) apart again half as deep as the bulb is in diameter. If there are no offsets or small bulbs to remove from the main bulb, you can use bulb scales. Remove a few scales from the main bulb and place them in a bag with moist peat at room temperature. Within a few weeks, the scales will produce bulblets that can be planted as soon as they form roots.

Propagating Asiatic Lily from Leaves

Using foliage for Asiatic lily propagation is an unusual method, but it does work in time. Gently pull downward on the outer leaves of the plant when they are still green but after the plant has bloomed. Dip the ends of the leaves in rooting hormone and insert them into 2 inches (5 cm.) of moistened sand. Three leaves per 2 inch container (5 cm.) is sufficient to leave room for bulbs to form. Cover the containers with plastic bags and place them in a warm area of the home. In about a month, small swellings occur with a root or two on the treated end of the leaf. These are now ready to plant and grow. Flowering will occur in two years or less. The cost to do this is negligible, but the savings are huge and you now have more of these stunning plants.

Gloriosa lilies are beautiful, tropical looking flowering plants that bring a splash of color to your garden or home. Hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11, they’re most frequently grown as container plants to be brought indoors during the winter. Even if you grow your gloriosa lily in a pot, however, it can produce seeds for you to grow into more plants. Keep reading to learn more about gloriosa lily seed germination and when to plant gloriosa lily seeds.

Is Planting Gloriosa Lily Seeds Worth It?

Usually, gloriosa lilies are propagated by vegetative or root cuttings because the success rate is much higher. While it’s not quite as likely to work, growing gloriosa lilies from seed is another viable option. Just be sure to plant several seeds to increase your chance of getting one that germinates and grows into a plant successfully.

When to Plant Gloriosa Lily Seeds

If you live in a very warm climate (USDA zones 9-11), you can plant your gloriosa lilies outdoors. It’s best to start the seeds indoors in the middle of winter, though, to give them the chance to grow into seedlings by spring, at which point they can be transplanted outside. If you’re planning on keeping your plants in containers and growing them inside or at least bringing them inside for the colder months, then you can start you seeds at any time during the year.

How to Plant Gloriosa Lily Seeds

Growing gloriosa lilies from seed is relatively easy, though it does take some patience. If you’re gathering seed pods from the plant yourself, wait until autumn when they dry and split open. Gather the seeds inside. Before planting gloriosa lily seeds, soak them in warm water for 24 hours. Sow the seeds in a pot of moist peat moss no deeper than 1 inch (2.5 cm.). Cover the pot with plastic wrap and keep it moist and warm. It may take between one and three months for the seeds to germinate.

Do lilies need staking? A lot of taller plants will eventually need a little extra support if you don’t want your flowers lying in the dirt. This is especially true in late summer and fall and with tall, top-heavy flowers like lilies. Staking lilies is a simple way to ensure your late season beds continue to add beauty to your garden.

Should You Stake Lily Plants?

There is no real reason in terms of the health of the plant to stake lilies in the garden. Your perennial blooms will come back next year, whether they droop now or not. The main reason for staking lilies at all is to keep up appearances. Your perennial beds just don’t look that nice when all the flowers droop over and land in the dirt or mulch. A little staking is great for your garden, but you need to know how to do it right to keep the flowers happy and healthy as well as attractive.

How to Hold up Lily Plants and Blooms

Lilies can grow anywhere from 2 to 6 feet (61 cm. to 2 m.) tall, which means the structure of the stem may begin to fail them at some point. Stakes for lily plants can be any type of garden stake, like a bamboo dowel, but you can also get creative. If you plant the flowers near a fence, trellis, or porch, you can use these structures to prop up your plants as they bloom and grow top heavy. If you want the staking to be hidden, standard green bamboo is a good choice. They blend in well in the garden. You can also use different lengths of dowel, starting short and replacing it with subsequently taller stakes to avoid an imbalanced look and a whole lot of sticks towering over your bed. Another popular option is to use a tomato cage once the lilies have grown taller. When tying the lilies to a stake or other structure, use twine or fabric, not wire that can harm the stem. Leave enough space for the stem to grow, but not so much that it will just flop over again. For the tallest lilies, you will probably need to tie the plants to the stake in a few places. Always include a tie just below the flower; otherwise, a strong wind can break it off the stem.

Are tiger lilies prone to mosaic virus? If you know how destructive this disease is and you love the lilies in your garden, this is an important question to ask. Tiger lilies can carry mosaic virus, and although it has little impact on them, it can be spread to the other lilies in your beds.

Tiger Lily Mosaic Virus

Lilies are some of the most regal and beautiful flowers in the garden but, unfortunately, most of them are susceptible to a disease called mosaic virus. Tiger lily is particularly notorious for carrying this disease and spreading it to other lilies in a garden. Tiger lilies will not be affected by the disease they carry but will cause damage by spreading it to the other plants that are nearby. Mosaic virus is primarily spread through aphids. These little bugs suck on plants to feed and then pass the virus from one to another. The characteristic signs of mosaic virus include irregular and elongated yellow streaks on the leaves. They vary in width and length. The flowers may also look unhealthy or weakened, and the overall plant may also show signs of weakness. The problem with mosaic virus in tiger lilies is that even though it carries the disease, it shows no signs of it. You may be planting a tiger lily in your garden that looks perfectly healthy but that is about to spread disease to the rest of your lily plants.

Preventing Tiger Lily Mosaic Virus in the Garden

Although they are beautiful, many lily gardeners avoid the tiger lily altogether. At the very least, don’t plant tiger lilies near other lilies or you could inadvertently spread mosaic virus and lose your entire lily collection. Not having them in the garden at all is the only sure way to avoid mosaic virus. If you do have tiger lilies, you can minimize the risks by minimizing aphids. For instance, release ladybugs in your garden to combat aphids. You can also keep an eye on plants in your garden for signs of aphids and use synthetic or natural products to get rid of them. Aphids are particularly drawn to cooler, shadier areas of gardens, so sunny and hot gardens are less likely to cultivate these pests. Another way to grow all lilies, including tiger lilies, while avoiding mosaic virus, is to grow lilies from seed. The virus infects every part of the plant, except for the seeds. Still, adding tiger lilies to a garden with other lilies is always risky. There will always be a chance that the virus will be lurking and will spread to your other plants. Not planting tiger lily at all is your only foolproof way to eliminate mosaic virus.

Oriental lilies are the classic “late bloomer.” These stunning flowering bulbs bloom after Asiatic lilies, continuing the lily parade in the landscape well into the season. Growing oriental lily plants is fairly easy provided you have a well prepared site for bulbs, plenty of sun and good drainage. 

Some of the most magnificent flowers in the lily family are in this large group of species and cultivars. Read on to learn how to grow oriental lilies for a colorful, magical blooming garden surrounding your home.

What is an Oriental Lily?

Asiatic and Oriental are two of the most popular forms of true lilies available. Asian lilies bloom in June to July while Oriental bulbs start to appear in August. Both are quite easy to grow with thick, rigid stems, strappy leaves and showy flowers.

Oriental lily cultivars, however, tend to have larger flowers. Orientals also thrive in cooler regions and can tolerate less than ideal soil conditions. To answer the question, "What is an Oriental lily?" we first need to concede what a true lily is. There are many flowering plants referred to as lilies, but only true lilies are in the genus Lilium. They spring from bulbs with scales on the exterior and no protective skin.

Oriental lilies are larger than their Asian counterpart and very fragrant, making them popular additions to the cut flower garden. Many Oriental lilies may grow 3 to 6 feet (1-2 m.) in height, much taller than Asiatic lilies.

How to Grow Oriental Lilies

Site selection is the most important aspect when planting an Oriental lily. Choose a location that is in full sun when growing Oriental lily plants. These bulbs cannot tolerate boggy soil, which means their planting bed should be tested for drainage and amended prior to installing the bulbs.

Incorporate organic material into clay soils to increase drainage and nutrients. Oriental lilies are available either in fall or in spring. Wait to plant until spring in areas with sustained freezes. Install bulbs 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm.) deep with the pointed part upward. Orientation is very important when planting an Oriental lily. Some gardeners swear by the addition of some bone meal at planting, but this isn't strictly necessary. That said, it will not hurt anything to do so.

Bulbs should sprout and bloom the first year. Bulbs can withstand quite a bit of crowding and can be installed in containers too.

Oriental Lily Plant Care

Lilies are one of the easiest plants to care for unless you live in a deer prone area, since those browsing animals seem to find lily bulbs as attractive as candy. Once bulbs bloom, keep them moderately moist.

When blooms are spent, cut off flower stalks but allow foliage to remain until yellow and beginning to die. This will help fuel the bulb for the next year's bloom. In fall, mulch over the area with a few inches of organic bark mulch. Pull away in spring as soon as you begin to see sprouts. Fertilize bulbs once annually in spring with a good slow-release fertilizer.

Once every 3 or so years, dig up the clusters of bulbs and divide them to increase plants and enhance flowers. If blooms are excessively large and begin to flop over, threatening the stem, simply stake them up until flowers are spent.

Oriental lily plant care is one of the most straightforward. Northern gardeners use caution. If a harsh winter is expected, it might be best to dig up your bulbs and store them indoors, replanting them in spring.

Like most bulbs, tiger lilies will naturalize over time, creating even more bulbs and plants. Dividing the cluster of bulbs and transplanting tiger lilies will enhance growth and blooming, and further increase your stock of these charming lilies. For best success, you should know when to divide and how to transplant tiger lily plants. The process is easy, and you can even give a few of these stunning flowering bulbs away every few years.

When Should I Transplant Tiger Lilies?

Tiger lilies are vigorous perennial bulbs that bloom in summer. They may be white, yellow, or red, but are usually deeply orange with speckled petals. Plants may grow up to 4 feet (1 m.) tall and over time the number of blooms will increase. Tiger lilies can be propagated through bulbs, scales, bulbils, or seed, but the quickest and easiest method is through division of established bulbs. Transplanting tiger lilies will result in a crop the next year if you time it just right. Transplanting summer-blooming bulbs like tiger lilies can be done at any time of the year, but you might sacrifice flowers if you don't get the timing right. The best time for transplanting tiger lily bulbs is when the foliage has died back. Just remember to mark the area before all the greenery disappears or you may miss the bulbs. The bulbs are quite hardy even in areas with sustained freezes and don't usually need to overwinter indoors. Autumn is generally the time the greenery is dying back and the best time to transplant the bulbs. If you are transplanting live plants, make sure to plant them at the same depth in which they were growing and provide them with adequate water to reestablish.

How to Transplant Tiger Lily Plants

It's not actually the plants you will transplant unless you opt to lose some flowers and move them during the growing season. If you wait until fall, all that is left to move are the bulbs. To remove the bulbs, use a shovel and cut straight down several inches (8 cm.) away from where the plants were. Dig as far out from the main clump of the plant, or plants, as needed to avoid cutting the bulbs. Then, carefully excavate inward until you find the bulbs. Lift the bulbs gently and brush off the soil. If the bulbs are in a big clump, delicately separate them. If any plant material remains on the bulbs, clip it off. After you have lifted and separated the bulbs, check for rotten spots and discoloration. Discard any bulbs which aren't healthy. Prepare the bed by loosening the soil to a depth of 8 inches (20 cm.) and adding in organic matter and bone meal. Plant the bulbs 6 to 10 inches (15-25 cm.) apart at a depth of 6 inches (15 cm.). Bulbs need to be situated with the pointed side up and the roots downward. Press soil around the bulbs and water to settle the soil. If you have snoopy squirrels or other digging animals, place a section of chicken wire over the area until plants sprout in spring. Transplanting tiger lily bulbs is easy and the results will be bigger flowers and more than ever before.

The national flower of Zimbabwe, gloriosa lily is an exotic looking flower that grows on vines reaching up to 12 inches (31 cm.) high in the right conditions. Hardy in zones 9 or higher, many of us can only grow gloriosa as an annual. Like dahlias, cannas, or calla lilies, northern gardeners can store gloriosa tubers indoors over winter. However, these tubers require a little different care than most tubers and bulbs we store throughout winter.

How to Store Gloriosa Lily Bulbs Over Winter

In late summer, as gloriosa flowers began to fade, reduce watering. When the aerial parts of the plant wither and die, cut them back to soil level. Before the first frost in your location, carefully dig up gloriosa tubers for winter storage. Many times, as the flowers fade and the plant withers, its energy will go into producing a “daughter” tuber. Though you may have started out with only one gloriosa tuber, when you dig it up in autumn, you may find two fork-shaped tubers. These two tubers can be carefully cut apart before storing gloriosa lily tubers for winter. When handling gloriosa tubers, be very careful to not damage the tips of the tubers. This is the growing tip and damaging it can prevent your gloriosa from coming back. Gloriosa tubers need at least a six to eight week dormancy period. During this rest period, they cannot be allowed to dry out and shrivel up, or they will die. Many gloriosa tubers are lost over winter due to dehydration. To properly store gloriosa lily tubers through winter, place them in shallow pots with vermiculite, peat moss, or sand.

Gloriosa Winter Care

Storing gloriosa lily tubers in shallow pots through winter will make it easier for you to check on the tubers to make sure they do not dry out. These shallow pots should be stored in an area where temperatures stay between 50 and 60 degrees F. (10-15 C.). Check these dormant tubers weekly and lightly mist them with a spray bottle. Be sure to only mist them lightly, as too much water can cause them to rot. Depending on your hardiness zone, begin to increase the temperatures and light level for your gloriosa tubers in February to May. When all danger of frost is over, you can plant your gloriosa tubers outdoors in slightly sandy soil. Again, whenever handling gloriosa tubers, be very careful to not damage the growing tip. Gloriosa tubers should be planted horizontally about 2-3 inches (5-8 cm.) below the soil.

Although tree lily is a very tall, sturdy plant at 6 to 8 feet (2 m.), it isn’t actually a tree, it’s an Asiatic lily hybrid. Whatever you call this gorgeous plant, one thing is sure – dividing tree lily bulbs is about as easy as it gets. Read on to learn about this easy method of propagating lilies.

When to Divide a Tree Lily Bulb

The best time to divide tree lily bulbs is in autumn, three to four weeks after blooming and, preferably, a few weeks before the first average frost date in your area, which allows time for the plant to establish healthy roots before the first cold snap. A cool, dry day is healthiest for the plant. Never divide lilies when the foliage is still green. As a general rule, divide tree lilies every two to three years to keep tree lily plants neat and healthy. Otherwise, tree lilies require very little care.

How to Divide Tree Lily Bulbs

Cut the stems down to 5 or 6 inches (13-15 cm.), then dig around the clump with a garden fork. Dig about 12 inches (31 cm.) down and 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm.) from the clump to avoid damaging the bulbs. Brush off the dirt so you can see the divisions, then gently pull or twist the bulbs apart, untangling the roots as you work. Discard any rotted or soft bulbs. Cut the remaining stem just above the bulbs. Plant the tree lily bulbs immediately in a well-drained location. Allow 12 to 15 inches (31-38 cm.) between each bulb. If you aren’t ready to plant, store the tree lily bulbs in the refrigerator in a bag of moist vermiculite or peat moss.

Lilies have been adored and considered sacred plants in different cultures for centuries. Today, they are still one of the most loved garden plants. Their deeply rooted bulbs and wide array of colors and variety make them great companion plants for many annuals, perennials, and shrubs. Read on to learn more about companions planting with lily flowers.

Plants That Grow Well With Lilies

Lilies grow best in full sun but can tolerate part shade. They should not be planted in shade gardens or surrounded by tall plants that shade them out. Most lilies like moist, but not soggy soil; too much water can make the bulbs rot. Established lilies can be drought resistant. 

Good lily plant companions will have medium to light water requirements. Lily bulbs do not like to be crowded out, so aggressive spreaders and groundcovers are generally not good companions for lilies.

Companions for Lilies

The following suggestions make suitable lily plant companions in the garden. Annuals Shallow rooting annual plants that grow well with lilies are:

• Cosmos
• Dianthus
• Dill
• Geraniums
• Marigold (shorter varieties)
• Pansy
• Snapdragons (dwarf)
• Zinnias
• Asters
• Moss roses
• New guinea impatiens

Bulbs Good bulb companions for lilies are:

• Dahlia
• Hyacinth
• Daffodil
• Tulips
• Allium
• Snowdrops
• Gladiolus
• Canna
• Anemone
• Liatris
• Iris

Perennials Perennial plants that grow well with lilies include:

• Peony
• Violet
• Daylilies
• Poppy
• Dianthus
• Daisy
• Cranesbill
• Primrose
• Penstemon
• Columbine
• Aster (compact varieties)
• Gaillardia
• Coral bells
• Lavender
• Rudbeckia
• Hibiscus
• Hyssop
• Coneflower
• Salvia
• Beebalm
• Veronica
• Artemisia
• Corn flower
• Lamb’s ear
• Meadow rue
• Garden phlox
• Russian sage
• Sedums

Shrubs As late long as they do not provide too much shade and are planted far enough away, certain shrubs can beautifully accent lilies. Good shrub companions for lilies are:

• Roses
• Azalea
• Korean spice viburnum
• Hydrangea
• Weigela
• Rose of Sharon
• Bush honeysuckle
• Smoke bush

Be sure to give lilies plenty of space of their own, and don't crowd them with companion plants. Lily bulbs are soft and tender, and the strong, aggressive roots of other plants can pierce these bulbs, damaging or even killing them. 

Lilies also will not come up in the spring if weeds or plants are too dense above the bulb. If lilies are too overcrowded or overshaded, they can be more susceptible to fungal diseases.

Lilies are an extremely varied and popular group of plants that produce beautiful and sometimes, very fragrant flowers. What happens when those flowers fade though? Should you cut them off or leave them where they are? Keep reading to learn more about how to deadhead a lily plant.

Should You Deadhead Lily Flowers

Deadheading is the term given to removing the spent flowers from a plant. With some plants, deadheading actually encourages new flowers to bloom. Unfortunately, this isn’t the case for lilies. Once a stem has finished blooming, that’s it. Cutting off the spent flowers isn’t going to make way for any new buds. Deadheading lilies is still a good idea for a couple of reasons, though. For one thing, it cleans up the appearance of the plant as a whole. If you’re growing lilies, you probably want to keep the foliage around through the summer so the plants will come back the following spring. Your garden will look much nicer without spent flowers hanging around.

About Deadheading Lilies

More important than aesthetics, though, is how your lily plant expends its energy. If a lily flower is pollinated, it will shrivel and make way for a seed pod-- this is how lilies reproduce. This is all well and good, unless you plan on using the same bulb to grow more lilies next year. Producing seed pods takes energy that the plant could be putting to use storing up carbohydrates in the bulb for next year’s growth. Deadheading lily plants channels all that energy into the bulb. So how to deadhead a lily plant? Once a lily flower has faded, just break it off with your fingers or snip it off with a pair of shears to stop seed pod production. Make sure not to take off any leaves with the flower, however. The plant needs all its leaves to take in as much energy as possible.

Lilies are wildly popular flowering plants that come in a huge range of variety and color. They come as small as dwarf plants that function as ground cover, but other varieties can be found that reach as tall as 8 feet (2.4 m.). These are called tree lilies, and their spectacular height makes them well worth growing. Despite being so large, tree lilies in containers perform well, as long as they have enough space. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow tree lilies in containers and caring for potted tree lilies.

Potted Tree Lily Information

The key to growing tree lilies in pots is giving them enough room. Lily bulbs can actually be placed relatively close together, with a spacing of about 2 inches (5 cm.) between bulbs. Especially in containers, this gives the plants a fuller, denser look, and being packed so tightly doesn’t affect them in a negative way. It’s the depth of the container that you have to worry about. Get a container that’s at least 10 inches (25.5 cm.) deep, preferably more. Keep in mind that you do not only need to provide space for the roots, you also need a big, heavy pot to balance out all that height.

Growing Tree Lilies in Containers

Plant your tree lily bulbs in autumn or spring. Cover them with compost so that just the tips of the shoots are poking out. Following their planting, caring for potted tree lilies is relatively easy. Put your container in a place that receives full sun, and water and fertilize well. You can overwinter your lilies in cold climates by placing the containers in a sheltered but unheated shed or basement. Repot the bulbs to a bigger container each autumn, after the flowers have faded. Knowing how to grow tree lilies in containers is that simple. So if you’re low on typical garden space, you can still enjoy these tall, statuesque plants by growing your tree lilies in pots.

Also known as wild yellow lily or meadow lily, Canada lily (Lilium canadense) is a stunning wildflower that produces lance-shaped leaves and enchanting yellow, orange, or red, trumpet-shaped flowers in midsummer. Wondering how to grow Canada lilies in your garden? Read on to find out.

Wild Yellow Lily Information

Canada lily wildflowers, native to the eastern areas of Canada and the United States, are hardy plants that grow in USDA growing zones 3 through 9. The plants, which reach mature heights of 2 to 5 feet (0.5 to 1.5 m.), are commonly found growing along roadsides, in moist meadows, and woodlands, along streams, or in marshy areas. The nectar from the fragrant blooms is highly attractive to hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees.

Canada Lily Propagation

Although it isn’t difficult to plant Canada lily seeds, expect to wait five or six years for the plants to bloom. Purchase seeds or just let the pods dry on the plant in autumn. Save the dry seeds for planting the following spring. The easiest (and fastest) way to start Canada lilies in your garden is to plant bulbs, which are available at garden centers that specialize in native plants or wild lilies. You can also purchase Canada lily bulbs online. Canada lily propagation can also be accomplished by dividing rhizomes or offsets.

How to Grow Canada Lilies in the Garden

Canada lily cultivation isn’t all that complicated. Canada lily wildflowers prefer sun or partial shade and loamy, slightly acidic soil, much like that of their native woodland homes. Good drainage is critical for successful Canada lilies. If your soil doesn’t quite fill the bill, mix several inches (5 to 12.5 cm.) of compost, mulch, or another organic material into the top of the soil. Plant Canada lily bulbs twice their depth, which generally means each bulb should be covered with about 4 inches (10 cm.) of soil. Space the bulbs 12 to 15 inches (30.5 to 45.5 cm.) apart. A layer of bark chips or other mulch does the plant a world of good. Apply mulch in late spring, and then, if possible, refresh the mulch in midsummer. You can also fertilize the plant at these times. Experts recommend using a fertilizer formulated for potatoes or tomatoes, which has all the nutrients required by lily wildflowers. Water the area regularly at soil level to keep the soil moist but not drenched. Do your best to keep the foliage dry and beware of overwatering. Canada lily wildflowers thrive in moist, but not soggy soil.

Many of us plant lovers have limited space in our gardens. You may live in an apartment, with no yard, or you may have already filled your flower beds to the brim. 

Yet, you find yourself drawn to the exotic look of lilies and, as a result, wonder “can you grow lily plants in pots?” The answer is yes. As long as you have enough space on your porch, patio or balcony for a medium to large pot, you can grow potted lily plants. Read on to learn more.

Container Grown Lilies

To grow potted lily plants, you will need these few things:

• Healthy lily bulbs – You can purchase lily bulbs from many places. Mail order catalogs, home improvement stores, garden centers and plant nurseries often have lily bulbs for sale in packages. When you get these bulbs home, it's important to sort through them. Throw away any bulbs that are mushy or moldy. Plant only the bulbs that look healthy.
• A medium to large, well-draining pot – Proper drainage is very important for lilies. While they like moist soil, sopping wet soil will cause the bulbs to rot. Make sure you select a container with drainage holes on the bottom. For extra drainage, add a layer of rocks in the bottom of the pot. This layer of rocks will also help stabilize the pot if you are growing tall lilies, but it will make the pot a little heavy to move around. Select the proper size pot for the amount of lilies you are planting. The bulbs should be planted about 2 inches (5 cm.) apart. Deeper pots are better for taller lilies.
• Sandy potting mix – Lilies do best in partially sandy soils. Potting mixes that are mostly peat will stay too wet and again cause bulb rot. However, you can buy any potting mix and just add sand to it. Mix about 2 parts potting mix with 1 part sand. The more sand, the heavier the pot will be, though.
• Slow release fertilizer – Lilies are heavy feeders. When you plant them, add a slow release fertilizer like Osmocote, to the top layer of the soil. Your lilies will also benefit from a monthly dose of potassium-rich tomato fertilizer during the growing season.

Planting Lilies in Containers

When you have everything you need, you can begin planting lilies in containers. Fill your pot 1/3 of the way full with the sandy potting mix and pat it down a little. Don't press it down too hard and compact the soil, just a light even patting will do.

Arrange the lilies how you want them on this layer potting mix, with the root side down and bulb tip up. Remember to space the bulbs about 2 inches (5 cm.) apart. I like to plant them in a bullseye scheme by height. I place one tall variety of lily in the center, then a ring of medium height lilies around it, then one last ring of dwarf lilies around that.

After you have arranged the bulbs to your liking, cover with enough potting mix so that the bulbs’ tips are slightly sticking out. Add slow release fertilizer and water well.

Most lilies need a cold period in order to grow beautiful blooms. It is best to pot them up in early spring and then put them in a frost free, cool greenhouse or cold frame for a few weeks until outside temperatures become warm and stable. If you do not have a greenhouse or cold frame, a cool garden shed, garage or basement will work.

Once the weather permits it, place your potted lily plants outside in a sunny to part sunny location. If there is any danger of frost, simply move your potted lily plants indoors until it has passed.

Care of Lilies in Pots

Once your container grown lilies begin to grow from the bulb tips, add more potting mix to the container. Keep the soil line about 1 inch (2.5 cm.) below the brim of the pot for watering. You should water only when the top layer of soil looks dry. I usually just stick the tip of my finger right in the soil to see if it feels dry or moist. If it's dry, I water thoroughly. If moist, I check again the next day.

Asiatic and Oriental lilies will bloom between June and August. After the blooms have faded, deadhead them to encourage new flowers and bulb growth rather than seed development. A dose of tomato fertilizer once a month also helps the blooms and bulbs. August should be the last month you use fertilizer.

Overwintering Container Grown Lilies

Your potted lily plants can live in these containers for a few years with proper overwintering. In autumn, cut the stalks back to just above the soil line. Discontinue watering at this time so the bulbs don't rot.

Do not bring container-grown lilies into a warm house for the winter, as that will prevent them from flowering next summer.

Lilies are extremely popular plants to grow in pots and in the garden. Partly because they’re so popular, they’re also very numerous. There are a huge number of different varieties of lilies, and picking out the right one can get a little overwhelming. Luckily, there are some basic broad classifications of this excellent cutting flower. Keep reading to learn more about the different types of lilies and when they bloom.

Lily Plant Types

Lily plant types can be divided into 9 basic categories, or “divisions.”

• Division 1 is made up of Asiatic Hybrids. These lilies are very cold hardy and often the earliest bloomers. They are usually 3 to 4 feet (1 m.) tall and produce unscented flowers in almost every color imaginable.
• Division 2 lily plant types are called Martagon Hybrids. These common lily varieties grow well in cool weather and shade, making them excellent for shady gardens. They produce many small, downward facing flowers.
• Division 3 lilies are Candidum Hybrids and include most European varieties.
• Division 4 lilies are American Hybrids. These are plants derived from the lilies that bloom in the wild in North America. They tend to bloom in late spring in warm climates and midsummer in cooler climates.
• Division 5 is made up of Longiflorum Hybrids. Longiflorum is commonly called Easter Lily, and its hybrids usually share the pure white, trumpet-shaped flowers.
• Division 6 lilies are Trumpet and Aurelian Hybrids. These common lily varieties are not frost hardy and should be grown in pots in cool climates. They like full sun and in mid to late summer produce stunning, trumpet-shaped blossoms.
• Division 7 lilies are Oriental Hybrids. Not to be confused with Asiatic Hybrids, these lilies can grow to 5 feet (1.5 m.) high, bloom in late summer, and have a strong, enchanting fragrance.
• Division 8 lilies are Interdivisional Hybrids, or varieties of lily created by crossing plants of the 7 previous divisions.
• Division 9 is made up of Species lilies. These are the pure, wild parents of the first 8 hybrid groups and are often harder to grow than hybrids.

What is an Aurelian lily? Also called a trumpet lily, it’s one of the ten main types of lilies grown in the world, although a huge expanse of hybrids and different cultivars makes for some serious variety. Aurelian, or trumpet, lilies are known for their huge, trumpet-shaped blossoms and impressive height. They’re a great addition to any garden. How do you go about planting trumpet lily bulbs though? Keep reading to learn more about Aurelian trumpet lily info and trumpet lily plant care.

Information About Trumpet Lilies and Their Care

Planting trumpet lily bulbs is very similar to planting most lily varieties. You can plant the bulbs in either the fall or the spring in neutral soil. You want your soil to be fertile and well-draining, so add compost or gritty material if need be. Planting trumpet lily bulbs is possible both in containers and in the garden. Remember that the plants can reach 6 feet (2 m.) in height, however, so make sure to use a large, heavy pot. If you’re planting outdoors, space the bulbs 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm.) apart and 8 inches (20 cm.) deep. Feed your bulbs with a balanced fertilizer such as 5-10-10 or 10-10-10, making sure the fertilizer doesn’t directly touch the bulb (this could burn and damage it). Once the bulbs have sprouted, trumpet lily plant care is relatively easy. The plants grow very tall, so staking is usually necessary. Place your stakes at the same time you plant the bulbs so as not to disturb the roots later. Keep feeding your trumpet lilies with a balanced liquid fertilizer as they grow. They should bloom in midsummer. Some varieties have a wonderful scent, while others have none-- it all depends upon what you plant. That’s all there is to it! Growing Aurelian trumpet lilies in the garden is an easy process and their low maintenance will ensure plenty more of these plants in years to come.

There is a lily for everyone. Quite literally, as there are over 300 genera in the family. Potted lilies are common gift plants but most forms also do well in the garden. Do lily bulbs need to be overwintered? If you live where no freezing occurs, you can leave the bulbs in the ground all year long. Gardeners in colder climates would do well to pull up the bulbs and save them indoors unless you treat the plants as annuals. But that would be a shame, since storing lily bulbs is fast, easy and economical. Read on to learn how to store lilies and preserve these delightful flowers.

How to Care for a Lily Plant Over Winter

As a tender plant, it is a good idea to dig up and store your lily bulbs to ensure year after year beauty. Most lilies are hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zone 8 with good mulching. However, bulbs left in the ground during winter freezes may not come back in spring and can even rot. The process is simple and can save the life of a magical flowering plant that has unabashed appeal. Container grown lilies are simple to save until the next bloom period. Cut off spent flowers and allow the greenery to die back. Diminish watering as the plant begins to go dormant. Once all the foliage has died back, dig up the bulbs and separate any that have split into offsets. Offsets are new bulbs and will result in new plants. Tease them away from the parent bulb and plant them separately in well-draining soil. Move containers indoors to a dry location where temperatures do not exceed 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7 C.). You can store the pots in the garage if it is insulated or the basement. Excessive heat will fool bulbs into sprouting early but freezing temperatures can damage the plant. Another important tip on how to care for a lily plant over winter is to avoid watering. The bulbs do not need watering more than once per month in low humidity areas and not at all until late winter in high moisture sites.

How to Store Lilies

Overwintering lilies in cool climates starts with digging the bulbs from the soil. Wait until the foliage has died back but remove them from the ground before any danger of frost occurs. Carefully lift the bulbs and divide them if necessary. Rinse the soil from the bulbs and check them for mold or damage. Discard any that aren't healthy. Let the bulbs dry for a few days in a cool, dark location. Many gardeners dust bulbs with fungicide before storing them, but this isn't strictly necessary if there is no sign of rot and the bulbs have fully dried. Place bulbs in peat moss inside a cardboard box or paper bag. Do lily bulbs need to be overwintered in paper or cardboard? Not necessarily, but the container needs to breath to prevent moisture from collecting and causing mildew or mold. You might also try a mesh bag filled with moss.

What to Do After Overwintering Lilies

After storing lily bulbs during winter, wait until mid to late spring to plant them. If you want an early start, place bulbs in containers with well-drained soil in pots 6 weeks before the date of the last freeze. Outdoor lilies benefit from rich, loose soil. Incorporate compost or leaf litter up to 8 inches (20.5 cm.) into the soil. Plant bulbs 6 to 7 inches (15 to 18 cm.) deep and 6 inches (15 cm.) apart. Press soil in around the bulbs and water immediately. If necessary, provide supplemental water in spring and summer to achieve about an inch (2.5 cm.) of moisture weekly. Sprouting should occur in just a few weeks and glorious flowers within months.

Easter lilies are native to the southern islands of Japan. It is a popular gift plant and produces lovely white flowers. The plants are forced to bloom around Easter and are often discarded after the flowers fade, which seems a waste. So, can Easter lilies be planted outside? Why, yes, of course!

These plants can’t overwinter in cold climates but in warm to temperate regions they will thrive and come back the following year with even more elegant lily flowers. Keep reading for some tips on the care of outdoor Easter lilies.

Are Easter Lilies Outdoor Plants?

Growing Easter lilies in the garden allows you to preserve the plant and its bulbs. The plant will gather more solar energy outdoors to fuel a future bloom and you can enjoy the attractive foliage. Lilium longiforum is the botanical name for the plant, but it is still just a bulb derived plant and treated like any other bulb.

The majority of the bulbs for the commercial sale of Easter lilies are grown in a small coastal region between Oregon and California. The bulbs are dug up and sent to nurseries to force just in time for the Easter holiday. This answers the question "are Easter lilies outdoor plants" because they are grown on outdoor farms in that area.

That said, there is some preparation necessary to transplant them into an outdoor bed. They have become pampered hothouse flowers, so special Easter lily outdoor care is essential.

How Can Easter Lilies Be Planted Outside?

Remove the spent blooms as they form on the plant to conserve energy. Wait to transplant until all danger of frost has passed.

Easter lilies prefer their heads in sun and feet in shade, so consider planting some spring annuals around the base of the plant to shade the roots and cool the soil.

Prepare a garden bed in a sunny location with organic amendments and loose, well-draining soil. Enhance the drainage if necessary with some sand worked into the soil.

If the foliage still persists, plant the entire plant at the depth at which it grew in the container. If you have only saved bulbs, install these 3 inches (7.6 cm.) deep and 12 inches (30 cm.) apart.

Keep the area moist, but not soggy, as the plant adapts to its new location. The foliage will fade once temperatures soar in summer but can be cut back. It will form new leaves quickly.

Care of Outdoor Easter Lilies

Easter lily outdoor care in winter is minimal. Place thick mulch over the lily but remember to pull it away from new growth in late winter to early spring.

Mix a time-released fertilizer at the rate recommended for bulbs around the root zone of the plant in spring and water it in.

As with any plant, some pest issues may arise, but these can usually be dealt with using a horticultural soap.

Northern gardeners will want to dig out the bulbs in spring and pot them up to overwinter indoors.

Are Oriental and Asiatic lilies the same? The answer to this often-asked question is no, the plants are definitely not the same. However, although they have distinct differences, they also share many commonalities. Read on and learn how to tell the difference between Asiatic and Oriental lilies.

Oriental vs. Asiatic Lily

Oriental and Asiatic lilies aren’t the same, but both of the popular, hybrid lilies are strikingly beautiful and right at home in the home garden. Although Oriental lilies are slightly trickier, both are easy to grow, and learning to tell the difference between Asiatic and Oriental lilies isn’t all that difficult either.

Asiatic Lily Info

Asiatic lilies are native to several areas of Asia. The plants, which reach mature heights of 1 to 6 feet (0.5-2 m.), display long, slender, glossy leaves. They are hardy, early bloomers that produce flowers in a wide variety of bold colors or pastels in spring. Unlike Oriental lilies, the flowers have no fragrance. Asiatic lilies aren’t fussy and they thrive in nearly any type of well-drained soil. The bulbs multiply quickly and can double every year.

Oriental Lily Info

Oriental lilies are native to Japan. The plants gain height every year, and at 2 to 8 feet (0.5-2.5 m.), are considerably taller than Asiatic lilies. Many are even known as tree lilies. The deep green leaves are wider and further apart than the leaves of Asiatic lilies and are somewhat heart-shaped. Oriental lilies bloom about the time Asiatic lilies are fading. The huge blooms, primarily in shades of white, pastel pink, and pastel yellow, are heavily scented. The bulbs multiply much more slowly than Asiatic lily bulbs. Additionally, when each of these plants put out new growth in spring, there are noticeable differences. For instance, Asiatic types resemble small artichokes as they emerge and develop multiple narrow leaves up and down the stem. Oriental types, however, will appear more torpedo-like with less leaf growth and are somewhat wider. There is no competition! Plant both and you’ll be rewarded with an impressive array of stunning blooms from early spring to mid- or late summer. Both benefit from occasional division to keep the plants healthy and prevent overcrowding.

Lilies are a stunning, often fragrant, centerpiece in any garden, but many gardeners are eventually faced with the same question: when is the best time to transplant lilies?

Over time, lily bulbs multiply, and the clumps can become overcrowded. When this happens, you'll often notice the plants producing fewer or smaller flowers due to the competition. To keep your plants vigorous and ensure a spectacular show of blooms, we suggest you aim to divide and move your lilies every three to five years.

However, the timing for this task can be tricky. Unlike tulips or daffodils, lily bulbs don't go completely dormant in winter, which makes the process slightly different. While moving an established clump shares some steps with planting lilies for the first time, getting the timing and method right is crucial for the bulbs' health.

When to Transplant Lilies

The best time to transplant most lilies, including popular types like Asiatic lilies and Oriental lilies, is in the fall when they start to go partially dormant. Wait until the foliage has yellowed and died down. This gives the plants plenty of time to store energy in the bulbs, which will lead to bigger, better flowers next year. Do not wait until the first frost.

Divide and transplant lilies every three to five years. Whether you grow Tiger lilies, Trumpet lilies, or other varieties, look for signs that your lilies could benefit from dividing: spindly new growth, narrower flower buds, and shorter stems than usual. Check for these signs in spring, and if you see them, plan to divide in the fall.

How to Transplant a Lily

Because lily bulbs do not go through a complete dormant phase, they should be replanted right away after division. Plan to dig up (with something like this Fiskars Ergo Garden Trowel from Amazon) , divide, and transplant lilies all in one day. Have the new locations for the divided bulbs ready to go for planting so there is no delay.

When you’re ready to divide and move lilies, start by cutting the foliage back a little to make them easier to work with. Dig down at least 12 inches (30 cm) deep and several inches around each lily plant to ensure you don’t damage any bulbs with your shovel or spade. Once you have the bulbs out of the soil, you can cut the leaves down right to the top of the bulb.

Gently pull up the bulbs and divide them. When dividing lilies, you’ll see older, larger bulbs and newer, smaller bulblets. Gently separate the bulbs and bulblets for replanting. Plant the larger bulbs to a depth of about five to six inches (13 to 15 cm). Plant the smaller bulblets to a depth of just two to three inches (5 to 7 cm).

Place bulbs in clumps of three or four and space the clumps 8 to 12 inches apart (20 to 30 cm). Add a layer of mulch over the newly planted bulbs to insulate them for winter. You can pull back some of this mulch in spring as the bulbs begin to push through new growth.

Frequently Asked Questions

Lilies are the queens of the flower world. Their effortless beauty and often intoxicating scent add an ethereal touch to the home garden. Unfortunately, they are often subject to diseases. Lily mosaic virus is most common in tiger lilies, which bear no harm, but can pass the virus on to hybrid lilies with extensive damage. Lily mosaic disease is not fatal but will mar the beauty and perfection of unique Lillium species.

What is Lily Mosaic Virus?

Plants in the Lillium genus have several potential viral issues but the mosaic virus is extremely contagious and common. It stems from those pesky aphids, whose sucking feeding behavior passes the virus from plant to plant. Lily mosaic virus affects some lilies more than others, and breeding programs have helped to develop resistant varieties. Viruses are mutating simple organisms. They are very hardy and adaptable and can be found in some form in almost every plant and animal on earth. Lily mosaic virus is the same strain as cucumber mosaic virus, a widespread disease in cucurbits. What is lily mosaic virus? It is the same virus that attacks cucurbits, but it targets the Lillium group of plants. These exotic and striking flowers may also be struck by Arabis mosaic or tobacco mosaic virus.

Lily Mosaic Disease Effects

The first signs and symptoms of the viral diseases may be hard to spot. Cucumber mosaic causes leaves to develop streaks and contorted foliage and blooms. Since the virus not only targets lilies and cucurbits but also common weeds and other plants, it spreads like wildfire in closely planted gardens. Over time the disease will affect the stems, leaves, blooms, and bulb of Lillium species. Arabis and tobacco mosaic diseases cause leaf mottling, leaf curl, and blistering of foliage and blooms. All the lily virus diseases can deplete the health of the lily plant over time.

Causes of Lily Mosaic Virus

It may seem like your lily patch is infecting itself as one plant after another develops symptoms. However, the root cause is aphid infestation. Check under the leaves for the little pests and you will likely find many of these sucking insects. As they feed, they inject the virus into the vascular system of the plant, and it transmits throughout the vein system to infect all parts of the lily. Lily mosaic disease is most common in tiger lilies whose bulbs may already be infected. Feeding activity on these plants will infect other lily species. For this reason, many lily collectors will not include the tiger lilies in their collection.

Treatment of Lily Virus Diseases

There are no chemical controls for this disease. The best treatments are prevention and control. Prevention starts with purchasing resistant varieties of lilies. Additionally, if you see signs of the disease, dig up the lily and destroy it to prevent the virus from spreading to other plants. Use bleach on any hand or cutting tools to disinfect them and prevent the virus from extending. Aphid control is of the utmost concern, as these are the organisms that transmit the virus to other plants. Use a good horticultural soap, blasts of water to wash off the insects, and good cultural care to increase the plant's health and resistance to pests. Lily mosaic disease can also be somewhat controlled by removing competing weeds and other plants from around your lily patch. The virus is unlikely to kill Lillium plants, but it does reduce the visual splendor of these magnificent flowers.

Oriental tree lilies are a hybrid cross between Asiatic and Oriental lilies. These hardy perennials share the best traits of both species—big, beautiful blooms, vibrant color, and rich, sweet fragrance. Keep reading to learn more tree lily info.

What is a Tree Lily?

Growing tree lilies are tall and the stalks are large but, in spite of the name, they are not trees; they are herbaceous (non-woody) plants that die down at the end of each growing season. Average height of a tree lily is 4 feet (1 m.), although some varieties may reach heights of 5 to 6 feet (1.5 to 2 m.) and sometimes more. The plant is available in bold colors such as red, gold, and burgundy, as well as pastel shades of peach, pink, pale yellow, and white.

Growing Tree Lilies

Tree lilies require similar growing conditions as most other lilies in the garden -- well-drained soil and full or partial sunlight. The plant grows in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 8, and may tolerate warmer climates in zones 9 and 10. Plant tree lily bulbs in autumn for blooms the following summer. Plant the bulbs 10 to 12 inches (25-31 cm.) deep and allow 8 to 12 inches (20-31 cm.) between each bulb. Water the bulbs deeply after planting.

Oriental Tree Lily Care

Water your tree lilies regularly throughout the growing season. The soil should not be soggy, but it should never be completely dry. Tree lilies generally require no fertilizer, however, if the soil is poor, you can feed the plant a balanced garden fertilizer when shoots emerge in spring, and again about a month later. If you prefer, you can use a slow-release fertilizer early in the growing season. Withhold water when the blooms die but leave the foliage in place until they turn yellow and are easy to pull. Never pull the leaves if they are still attached to the bulb because the foliage absorbs energy from the sun that nourishes the bulbs for the next year's blooms. Tree lilies are cold hardy, but if you live in a chilly climate, a thin layer of mulch will protect the new shoots from spring frost. Limit mulch to 3 inches (8 cm.) or less; a thicker layer attracts hungry slugs.

Tree lily vs. Orienpets

While often referred to as Orienpets, there are slight differences in the these lily plant varieties. Oriental tree lily plants, as previously stated, are an Asiatic and Oriental lily hybrid. Orienpet lilies, also known as OT lilies, are a cross between oriental and trumpet lily types. Then there is the Asiapet lily, which is a cross between an Asiatic and trumpet lily.

In most of the northern parts of the country, wood lily plants grow in grasslands and mountainous regions, filling the fields and slopes with their cheerful blooms. These plants were once so common that Native Americans used wood lily bulbs as a source of food. Today, though, this plant is considered rare and on the way to becoming endangered in the wild because so many people have picked the flowers. The bulbs don't have a chance to recover from blooming and often don't sprout the next year. While growing wood lilies is possible, you must make sure to get your bulbs from a reputable grower who specializes in rare plants.

Wood Lily Information

Wood lily plants (Lilium philadelphicum) grow in a single stem and can reach 1 to 3 feet (31-91 cm.) tall. The leaves are in a whorled pattern around the stem and the top of the stem can carry up to five flowers. These blooms are what make the wood lily such a popular plant. The bright orange, cup-shaped blooms are made of six separate flaring petals and each petal is spotted with deep purple spots right at the base. The best wood lily growing conditions are in rich, well-drained soil. They will live in sunny spots as well as shady areas, but they must be kept from standing in puddles to prevent the bulbs from rotting.

How to Grow Wood Lily Bulbs

If you'd like to try to grow and propagate wood lilies, look for bulbs from a local grower. There are many different regional variations of the wood lily, and one that grows near your home has the best chance of thriving in your yard. The best wood lily information from botanists and gardeners says to prepare the soil with lots of compost and to bury the bulbs three times their thickness. Set the bulbs in the garden in the fall and they will come up first thing in the spring. There are two ways to propagate wood lily in your home. First, grow the plant normally and dig up the bulbs after the foliage has died down in the summer. Store the bulbs until the fall and split the bulblets from each bulb to plant in a separate location. These bulblets are baby bulbs, designed to spread the plant underground. The other way to propagate wood lily is through seeds. Let the flowers dry out on the stem until they're brittle. Snap off the seed pods, which will form at the base of each flower, and store them in an envelope. Place the envelope in a zip-top bag in the refrigerator until late fall. Germinate the seeds into tiny bulbs and keep them in a warm spot through the winter. Plant these bulbs outside in a protected spot in the spring.

Lilies are popular for their large, extravagant, trumpet or star-shaped flowers. They are elegant, striking, and fragrant. There are many different types of lilies in colors spanning the rainbow.

Not all plants called lilies are true lilies, though. Daylilies and peace lilies, for example, are different types of flowers despite the common name of lily. The true lilies are perennial bulbs that grow readily in beds and containers if you provide the right conditions and basic care.

I’ll walk you through exactly what kind of lily plant care you need to provide for thriving flowers that produce stunning blooms year after year. Plus, I’ll share some of the most beautiful types of lilies you can grow in your garden.

Quick Lily Facts

Planting Lilies

Lily flowers are planted as bulbs. The bulbs can go in the ground in the fall or the spring. The choice depends on your local climate. Fall is the typical time for planting, but if you have very harsh, cold winters in your growing zone, wait for spring.

If planting bulbs in the fall, do so at least four weeks before the average first frost date. This gives the bulbs time to establish healthy, strong roots ahead of the following growing season. If you are doing a spring planting, wait until any danger of frost has passed.

Unlike some other types of bulbs, lily bulbs don’t go dormant when stored. If you try to store them to plant later, they’ll deteriorate. Buy bulbs right before you intend to plant them. Burpee is a great resource for lots of unique different types of lily bulbs.

Soil Requirements

Lily bulbs rot readily in standing water and soggy soil, so a planting area that drains well is essential. You can amend the soil with compost to enrich it and improve drainage.

The ideal pH for soil varies depending on lily type, but neutral or slightly acidic is generally fine.

Light Requirements

Most lilies grow best in full sun. Some types will tolerate partial shade, including oriental lilies and tiger lilies. Martagon lilies are woodland flowers, so they can grow in partial or even deeper shade.

However, if you plant sun-loving types of lilies in the shade, the stems will stretch and lean towards the light. To prevent legginess, be sure to plant lilies that need full sun in areas that receive at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day.

Planting Step-by-Step

Once you’ve selected the best growing spot for lilies, have the bulbs, and the time is right, take these steps to plant your lily bulbs:

1. Before placing bulbs in the ground, it's important to loosen the soil. Because lilies need well-draining soil, it helps to mix compost throughout the soil. Dig down about 12 to 15 inches (30-38 cm) into the ground and make any other needed soil amendments.
2. The final depth of the soil should be about three times the height of the bulb, typically around 6 inches (15 cm) deep. This encourages good root growth and keeps bulbs cool in summer. Place the bulb in the hole with the tip pointing up. A bulb planter, like this one from Amazon, makes planting the perfect size hole easy.
3. Fill the hole with soil and gently pack it in and around the bulb. If you have bulb-digging critters in your garden, you might want to bury wire cages along with the bulbs to protect them.
4. Space bulbs 8 to 18 inches (20-46 cm) apart, depending on their size. Generally, the distance between them should be three times the width of the bulbs. With appropriate spacing of individual bulbs in mind, plant them in groups of three to five for the best visual impact.
5. Once planted, water the bulbs thoroughly and cover the area with mulch. Only water them once if planting in the fall.
6. Mark the planting area, so you know where and what to expect in spring. These colorful garden stakes that look like lilies from Wayfair will provide you with beautiful metal blooms until the real ones arrive.

Lily Care

Lily plant care is fairly simple if you give them a good foundation and the right conditions for healthy growth.

Watering

Lilies grow best in soil that remains consistently moist, but that is never soggy. You only need to water plants during the growing season. Water deeply once or twice a week during the growing season if you are not getting consistent rainfall.

If you plant bulbs in the fall, water them once and leave them alone until the spring.

Fertilizing

Lilies are not heavy feeders, but they will benefit from a few applications of balanced fertilizer, like this organic plant food from Miracle-Gro.

Use a slow-release product in early spring, either with the bulbs if you’re planting in spring, or as soon as you see the first growth of spring from fall-planted bulbs. In summer, apply a fertilizer that is higher in potassium to encourage more flowers. This organic bloom booster from Espoma is a good option.

Avoid overfeeding lilies especially with too much nitrogen, which can lead to long and weak stem growth. Stop all fertilizer applications by the end of summer or early fall.

Mulching

Lilies benefit from a few inches of mulch to suppress weeds, retain moisture in soil that dries out quickly or during droughts, and keep roots cool during hot summer months. Refresh the mulch each spring. If you have cold winters, put plenty of mulch over bulbs in winter.

Pruning

Deadhead flowers once they’re spent to allow the plant to direct energy into more flowers rather than seeds. But be sure not to cut off more than a third of the stem. This can reduce the plant's heartiness and longevity.

Leave lily foliage in place for a while after flowering so that it has time to gather energy to store in the bulb for next year. Once the leaves have yellowed, you can trim them off. Cut stems all the way to the ground in late fall.

If you are growing lilies as part of a cutting garden, it is best to replant fresh bulbs each year. Cutting blooms off repeatedly can diminish the vigor of your lilies for the next year.

Propagation

Division is the easiest way to propagate lilies. To do so, dig up the parent plant and gently separate small bulblets from the main bulb.

When plants go dormant in the fall, this is the best time to divide and transplant lilies. Early fall is a great time to do this and you can immediately plant the divisions in beds.

Lily Care Calendar

Types of Lilies

There are lots of types of lilies to choose from, most of which also include many different varieties. Below are some of most common types you should know. Then shop tons of stunning lilies from Burpee.

• Asiatic Lilies: Asiatic lilies are the earliest bloomers and easiest variety to grow. This lily will grow almost anywhere. They don’t have strong scents but do come in the widest variety of colors. They can grow as tall as 6 feet (1.8 m).
• Oriental Lilies: Oriental lilies are the most fragrant lilies, and they bloom latest, in mid to late summer. They have a spicy scent and come in colors of pink, white, red, and bicolor. Some varieties of oriental lilies have double petals. They can also grow up to 8 feet (2.5 m) tall.
• Tiger Lilies: Most famously orange, tiger lilies can be any shade from red to yellow, with dark speckles on the recurved petals. They are hardier than most other types of lilies. They multiply in clumps and produce more than a dozen flowers on each stem.
• Easter Lilies: Easter lilies are the pretty white lilies you see in stores in spring. They are most often grown indoors in pots for just one season after being forced to bloom. You can plant an Easter lily outside in warmer growing regions, up to zone 5, with good winter mulch protection.
• Trumpet Lilies: Trumpet lilies are similar to Oriental lilies in terms of fragrance and bloom time. When it comes to their flowers, trumpet lilies have blooms that are smaller and more closed and resemble trumpets.
• Martagon Lilies: Martagon lilies are similar to the North American native lily, the Turk’s cap lily. These lilies not suited to hot weather, but they can tolerate a decent amount of shade. They come in many colors. Martagon lilies have whorled leaves and turk’s cap flowers. They can produce as many as 20 blooms on one stem. They come in many colors and are often freckled with flecks of color.
• Rubrum Lilies: The rubrum lily resembles the tiger lily, although the colors range from white to deep pink and have a sweet scent.

Common Problems

Most lilies are easy to grow with minimal problems. Soggy soil and root rot are the most typical issues. Make sure your soil drains very well and never overwater lilies.

Some common garden pests and diseases that may affect your lilies include gray mold, aphids, lily beetles, slugs, and snails. Space plants appropriately and avoid overhead watering to prevent mold.

Mammals may eat bulbs and entire plants. You can protect bulbs by planting them in wire bulb baskets, like these ones you can get from Amazon.

Container Care

You can grow lilies in pots or beds. They need deep containers, at least 12 inches (30 cm), but even bigger for tall varieties that can become top-heavy and tip over.

Make sure the container has drainage holes and use a light potting mix that drains very well. This potting mix from Miracle-Gro is my go-to for healthy growth all summer.

Water potted lilies more frequently than you would lilies in beds, as the soil will dry out more quickly. As with in-ground lilies, use fertilizer to promote good growth.

If you’re growing potted lilies year-round, keep in mind that the bulbs will be more vulnerable to cold than those in the ground. Mulch well and protect containers in winter with plastic or another material. Alternatively, bring the containers indoors for winter.

Companion Plants for Lilies

Low-growing perennials that tolerate some shade are great companions for lilies. Small hostas, for instance, shade the soil and help keep lily bulbs cool. They also produce late summer flowers once the lilies are spent. For something taller, ornamental grasses offer good textural contrast to lilies.

You can also use classic annual flowers to fill in the space around lilies. Alyssum, petunias, or marigolds will shade the ground over the lilies and provide season-long color, even after the lily flowers have finished.

Frequently Asked Questions

Lily Care Must-Haves

Everyone loves lilies. Planting Asiatic lilies (Lilium asiatica) in the landscape provides the earliest lily bloom. Asiatic lily care is simple once you've learned how to grow Asiatic lilies. The secret to beautiful, long-lasting blooms is learning the right way to plant Asiatic lilies. You'll be rewarded with colorful and bountiful blooms on this prized perennial.

How to Grow Asiatic Lilies

Scout for a location and prepare the soil ahead of time when planting Asiatic lilies. Information about the Asiatic lily advises planting in a sunny to partly sunny location. At least six hours of sunlight is necessary for the Asiatic lily plant. 

Soil should be well-draining, which may require the addition of organic material worked in several inches (8 cm.) deep. If you already have rich, organic soil in the area where you'll be planting Asiatic lilies, make sure it is loose and well-draining 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm.) deep. 

Bulbs of this lily should never sit in soggy soil. Work up sandy or clay soil by adding organic, well-composted materials. Peat moss, sand, or straw mixed into the beds before planting Asiatic lilies improves drainage. 

Soil should drain well but hold moisture to nourish the growing lilies. Information about the Asiatic lily says they prefer soil to be slightly acidic as well.

Planting Asiatic Lilies

Plant these bulbs in fall, a few weeks before the winter brings freezing temperatures. This allows a good root system to develop. Bulbs of the Asiatic lily must have the winter chill to produce big blooms. 

Plant the bulbs three times as deep as the height of the bulb, with the flat end down, then mulch lightly to retain moisture. In spring, plant short annuals around the lily bulbs to shade them. 

Place in a location away from browsing deer; Asiatic bulbs are edible and deer will do just that if given a chance.

Asiatic Lily Plant Care

Fertilize your plantings for optimum bloom. If you have followed the steps above, the organic matter in the soil gives your plants a good start. You can top dress with slow-release fertilizer as well, or feed in early spring with fish emulsion, worm castings, compost tea, or a nitrogen plant food. 

When buds appear on the Asiatic lily, feed with a high phosphorus food, or bone meal, to make blooms bigger and last longer. Fertilize in limited amounts, as too much fertilizer, even the organic types, can create lush green foliage and limit blooms. Proper care of your Asiatic lily bulbs goes a long way in creating a beautiful display.

Easter lilies (Lilium longiflorum) are traditional symbols of hope and purity during the Easter holiday season. Purchased as potted plants, they make welcome gifts and attractive holiday decorations. The plants last only a few weeks indoors, but planting Easter lilies outside after the blossoms fade lets you continue to enjoy the plant long after the holiday season. Let's learn more about planting and caring for Easter lilies outside.

How to Plant Easter Lily After Blooming

Caring for Easter lilies properly while you have them indoors ensures a strong, vigorous plant that makes the transition to the garden much easier. Place the plant near a bright window, just out of reach of the direct rays of the sun. Cool temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees F. (18-24 C.) are best for growing Easter lily plants. Water the plant often enough to keep the soil lightly moist and use a liquid houseplant fertilizer every two weeks. As each blossom fades, clip out the flower stem near the base. Once all of the blossoms fade it's time to transplant Easter lilies outdoors. The plants thrive in any type of soil except heavy clay. Amend soils that drain slowly with a generous amount of compost or peat moss. Choose a location with full or morning sun and afternoon shade. When choosing a location for planting Easter lilies outside, keep in mind that an Easter lily plant can grow 3 feet (1 m.) tall or a little more. Dig the planting hole wide enough to spread the roots and deep enough that once the plant is in place, you can cover the bulb with 3 inches (8 cm.) of soil. Set the plant in the hole and fill in around the roots and bulb with soil. Press with your hands to squeeze out air pockets and then water slowly and deeply. If the soil settles and leaves a depression around the plant, add more soil. Space Easter lilies 12 to 18 inches (31-46 cm.) apart. Here are a few Easter lily care and planting tips to help you get your plants off to a good start:

• Easter lilies like to have the soil around their roots shaded. You can accomplish this by mulching the plant or by growing shallow-rooted annuals and perennials around the lily to shade the soil.
• When the plant begins to die back naturally in fall, cut the foliage back to 3 inches (8 cm.) above the soil.
• Mulch heavily in winter with an organic mulch to protect the bulb from freezing temperatures.
• When new shoots emerge in spring, feed the plant with a complete fertilizer. Work it into the soil around the plant, keeping it about 2 inches (5 cm.) from the stems.

Can You Plant Easter Lilies Outside in Containers?

If you live in a USDA plant hardiness zone colder than 7, growing Easter lily plants in containers makes it easier to bring them inside for winter protection. Container growing is also a good option for gardeners with heavy clay or poorly drained soil. Bring the plant indoors when the foliage yellows at the end of the season. Store it in a dimly lit, frost-free location.

Nothing quite compares to the beauty found in a Gloriosa lily (Gloriosa superba), and growing a climbing lily plant in the garden is an easy endeavor. Keep reading for tips on Gloriosa lily planting.

About Gloriosa Climbing Lilies

Gloriosa climbing lilies, also known as flame lilies and glory lilies, thrive in fertile, well-drained soil in full to partial sun. Hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, they can be overwintered successfully in zone 9 with winter mulch. In cooler areas, climbing lilies can be grown successfully during the summer and lifted and stored for the winter. These exotic-looking lilies produce an abundance of yellow and red flowers with petals that curl backward to resemble a flash of brilliant flames. They can reach heights of 8 feet (2 m.) and require a trellis or wall to climb. Although climbing lilies do not produce tendrils, the specialized leaves of the Gloriosa climbing lily cling to the trellis or other plant material to pull the vine upward. Learning how to grow Gloriosa lilies is the first step to creating a wall of brilliant color that will last all summer.

Gloriosa Lily Planting

Select a location that receives six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. In southern climates, a location that allows the vines to grow in full sun while the roots of the plant remain shaded is the best location for growing a Gloriosa climbing lily plant. Some protection from afternoon sun may be needed as well. Prepare the soil by tilling to a depth of 8 inches (20 cm.) and amending with generous amounts of organic matter such as peat moss, compost, or well-rotted manure. Organic matter improves both drainage and aeration and provides a slow-release fertilizer to your climbing lilies. Erect a 6 to 8 foot (around 2 m.) trellis for your Gloriosa climbing lilies prior to planting. Check that it is secure and will not topple under the weight of the growing climbing lilies. The ideal time for Gloriosa lily planting is in the spring after the soil has warmed and all danger of frost has passed. Plant the Gloriosa lily tubers approximately 3 to 4 inches (8-10 cm.) from the trellis. Dig a hole to the depth of 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) and lay the tuber on its side in the hole. Space the tubers 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm.) apart to allow room for the mature plants to grow. Cover the tubers and gently firm the soil down to remove air pockets and secure the tubers.

Gloriosa Climbing Lily Care

Water the newly planted tuber to saturate the soil to a depth of 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) to give your Gloriosa climbing lily a good start. Keep the soil evenly moist until shoots appear in two to three weeks. Reduce water to once or twice a week or whenever the soil feels dry an inch (2.5 cm.) below the surface. Gloriosa climbing lilies typically require an inch (2.5 cm.) of rain a week and need supplemental watering during dry periods. Train the vines to climb the trellis by tying them to the trellis with soft plant ties, if necessary. Although climbing lilies cling to the trellis once established, they may need some help from you to get them started. Fertilize climbing lilies every two weeks with water-soluble fertilizer designed for flowering plants. This provides the nutrients needed to promote healthy blooming. Cut the vines back in the fall after they are killed by the frost. Tubers can be lifted and stored in moist peat moss in a cool, dark place for the winter and replanted in the spring.

Tiger lily flowers (Lilium lancifolium or Lilium tigrinum) offer a tall and showy flower that you may remember from your grandmother's garden. The tiger lily plant can reach several feet (1 m.) tall, and while the stems are usually stiff and sturdy, a slender stake occasionally helps provide an upright appearance and support for multiple flowers. Tiger lily flowers grow in mass atop a single stem, featuring curved sepals that complement the black-flecked orange petals above. Black bulbils will appear in the axils above the leaves. Learning how to grow tiger lilies involves planting the bulbils and waiting, as it may be five years before these produce tiger lily flowers. If you have tiger lilies growing in your existing garden, keep them happy with soil amendments as you learn how to grow tiger lilies from the bulbils.

How to Grow Tiger Lilies

Since they are grown from bulbils, the tiger lily plant won't tolerate soggy soil. Therefore, make sure to plant them in a well-draining area or you may find that the bulbils have rotted away. To ensure proper drainage, you may need to amend the soil prior to planting. Amending the soil around tiger lily flowers is as simple as adding compost or humus. Peat moss, sand or straw mixed into the beds are other ways to improve drainage and retain appropriate moisture. Proper soil preparation results in healthier tiger lily plants that produce more and bigger blooms.

Tiger Lily Care

Tiger lily care involves little work after plants are established, as they are somewhat drought tolerant. When growing tiger lilies, you'll find they often thrive with existing rainfall. Fertilization keeps the tiger lilies healthy when applied once or twice monthly. Feeding may also be in the form of organic mulch, which does double duty when applied to growing tiger lilies. The mulch will decompose to add nutrients, while providing low shade to the tiger lily plant, which likes cool roots. You can also plant shorter flowering specimens to help keep the lily roots cool. It should also be noted that it's normally better to plant tiger lilies in an area of the garden away from other lily varieties, like Asiatic and Oriental lilies. Tiger lily plants are prone to mosaic virus and, although this doesn't harm them, the virus can be transmitted or spread to other lilies nearby. Hybrid lily varieties that are affected with mosaic virus will have distorted or mottled blooms, and will flower less too. Affected plants should be promptly removed and discarded.

and Jackie Carroll Lily leaf beetles can be found feeding on a variety of plants, including potatoes, Nicotiana, Solomon's seal, bittersweet and a few others, but they only lay their eggs on true lilies and fritillarias. When you find your plants have been afflicted by a lily beetle infestation, it can leave you feeling frustrated. To relieve the stress associated with these little buggers, you should become familiar with the best practices for prevention and lily beetle treatment. Read on for more information.

Information About the Lily Leaf Beetle

The lily leaf beetle was imported from Europe, probably on shipments of bulbs making its way to North America around 1945. Discovered in Montreal, the red lily beetles were confined to the surrounding area for years. Then in 1992, these Asiatic lily bugs were found in Boston and the infestation now covers all of the New England states. Although it is most frequently found in the northeast, infestations are spreading south and west. It's theorized that most of the spread is due to the sharing of plants and bulbs among gardeners. The adult lily leaf beetle is a beautiful insect with a bright scarlet body with a black head, antennae, and legs. These ½-inch (1 cm.) long beetles are good hiders and strong fliers. The red lily beetles emerge from the ground in the early spring around mid April. After mating, the female lays her reddish brown eggs in an irregular row along the underside of the leaves of young lily plants. One female lily leaf beetle can lay up to 450 eggs over the course of a season.

Damage Caused by Asiatic Red Lily Beetles

Hatching in a week to ten days, the larvae cause much more damage than the adult red lily beetles, chewing from the underside of leaves and sometimes stripping the plant. The larvae resemble slugs, with swollen orange, brown, yellowish, or greenish bodies that are distinctive in that they carry their excrement on their backs. The larvae feed for 16 to 24 days and then enter the ground to pupate. Lily beetle's pupae are fluorescent orange. In 16 to 22 days, the new Asiatic lily beetles emerge and feed until winter, when they bury themselves in the soil until the cycle begins again.

Lily Beetle Control

Lily beetle control consists of hand picking and treatment with insecticides when manual removal isn't enough. Some beneficial insects show promise in controlling these insects, but they are not yet available to home gardeners. You can control small numbers of beetles by picking off the adults and removing the leaves where the females have laid their eggs. Knock the beetles into a bucket of soapy water and then bag and discard them. If the infestation is greater, more drastic measures are needed. You may need to use insecticides to control a severe lily beetle infestation. Neem oil is a relatively safe insecticide that kills young larvae and repels adult lily beetles but must be applied at five day intervals for full effect. Carbyl (Sevin) and malathion are both effective, killing adults and larvae in all stages, but also kills bees and other beneficial insects. The insecticide imidacloprid is most effective and can be found in several formulas, including soil drenches and foliar sprays. Always try the least toxic option first to maintain the balance of beneficial insects in the garden. Whatever you choose, read the label carefully and follow instructions.

Preventing Lily Beetles

Preventing lily beetles begins with inspecting plants carefully before you bring them home. Never buy plants with holes in the foliage or ragged edges on the leaves. Check the undersides of leaves for young larvae and egg masses. The beetles overwinter in the soil and on debris left in the garden at the end of the season. Cleaning up plant debris may reduce infestations the following year, however, the insects can travel a good distance from their overwintering site. If you live in the New England area, be careful when sharing your bulbs and plants with others. Check the soil, or better yet, use packaged soil to pot your gifts to friends and neighbors. If there are no signs of these bugs currently in your garden, don't accept gifts from others who have found them. With conscientious care, these little red devils can be controlled.