Few houseplants provide more “wow factor” than the lily of the valley tree (Elaeocarpus grandifloras). Its frilly, bell-shaped flowers will dazzle you all summer long. If you are interested in a flowering plant that tolerates low light, consider growing Elaeocarpus. Read on for lily of the valley tree information as well as tips on tree care.

Lily of the Valley Tree Information

Elaeocarpus lily of the valley trees are evergreens native to Australia. Growing Elaeocarpus outside is only possible in warmer regions like USDA plant hardiness zones 10 to 12. The tree thrives indoors as a tough houseplant almost anywhere though. These trees grow up to 30 feet (9 m.) in the wild. If you grow them indoors; however, they probably won’t get taller than you are.

This tree offers gorgeous clusters of beautiful blossoms that smell like anise. They resemble the bell like that from lily of the valley flowers but are frilly and fringed at the edges. Bright blue berries follow. The features of Elaeocarpus trees are so unusual that the species has picked up a handful of colorful common names. In addition to being called lily of the valley tree, it is also known as blue olive berry tree, Anyang Anyang, rudraksha tree, fairy petticoats, Shiva's tears, and fringe bells.

Lily of the Valley Tree Care

If you are interested in growing Elaeocarpus, you’ll be glad to know that it is not a fussy plant. This perennial thrives in any exposure, from full sun to full shade, although flowering and fruiting are more abundant when the plant gets some sun.

Don’t worry about providing rich soil for a lily of the valley tree. It tolerates poor soil, dry conditions, as well as low light conditions indoors or out. However, Elaeocarpus lily of the valley tree care is much easier if you plant it in soil based potting mix for containers or outdoors in well-draining, humus rich, moist soil.

The plant is sensitive to overfeeding, so go light on fertilizer. Prune in summer after the first flush of blossoms has passed.

You’ve heard of lily of the valley from the childhood rhyme, if nothing else. What about false lily of the valley though? According to false lily of the valley facts, the plant is a native perennial also called wild lily of the valley flowers (Maianthemum dilatatum). For more information about this plant, including tips on how to grow false lily of the valley, read on.

False Lily of the Valley Facts

False or wild lily of the valley is a low-growing perennial native to the Pacific Northwest. It has big glossy leaves. They are heart-shaped and grow on long stalks. The flowers are white and tiny. Each flower has four tepals, four stamens, and a two-parted ovary. The plant blooms in late spring and summer.

How to Grow False Lily of the Valley

If you are interested in learning how to grow false lily of the valley, it is a bit complicated but entirely doable. Wild lily of the valley care starts with finding a good planting spot.

These plants often grow in moist, shady woods and streambanks in the wild, much like their namesake. That means that the best planting bed will be an area that is cool and shady, with moist, but not wet, soil.

Wild lily of the valley flowers grow in sand, loam, or clay and any pH – from acidic to neutral. However, they will do best when the soil is rich in organic matter.

Wild Lily of the Valley Care

You can grow false lily of the valley flowers from seeds or cuttings.

If you opt for seeds, let the seedlings stay in a container for the first year or so. False lily of the valley plant care for the potted seedlings includes feeding them with diluted liquid fertilizer. Do this regularly to give them the nutrition they need.

Alternatively, you can grow false lily of the valley flowers from rhizomes, the fleshy underground roots of the plant. Dig up and divide the rhizomes in fall or spring, planting big ones immediately in the new location. Smaller ones can be potted first.

Caring for wild lily of the valley once these plants are established won’t require too much of your time. In fact, since they are native plants and are used to taking care of themselves, these flowers pretty much do all the work for you.

However, wild lily of the valley flowers can form an invasive mat and overwhelm the area, just like true lily of the valley flowers, so be cautious. These plants can live a very long time.

There are some plants that almost break your heart to see sick. Lily of the valley is one of those plants. Loved by so many, lily of the valley is one that’s worth trying to save, when you can. Read on to learn how to treat sick lily of the valley, as well as ways to keep your plants healthier.

Lily of the Valley Disease Problems

In many parts of the world, spring just isn’t spring without the delicate and fragrant notes of the ancient lily of the valley. These hardy plants can be used as small spotlights or huge mass plantings in your landscape; either will be completely show-stopping. That’s why it’s all the more upsetting when lily of the valley falls ill. Fortunately, there are very few diseases of lily of the valley that are of note, so you’ll know what to do if your plants do become suddenly ill if you read on.

How to Treat Sick Lily of the Valley Plants

Diseased lily of the valley plants are often succumbing to fungal pathogens that have been encouraged by growing conditions that may have been getting steadily worse for years. Since these plants are so tough, they don’t always show signs of sickness until you have a big problem. The best things you can do for your lily of the valley planting are to ensure that you’re thinning your plants every year and that the site where they’re planted drains well. These two little things will help discourage lily of the valley disease issues like those that follow: Leaf spots. Leaf spots can form when lily of the valley foliage is watered using a sprinkler or water stands on the leaves long enough to encourage fungal spore development. Spots are usually small, and water soaked, eventually spreading outward or developing spores in the centers. Pluck any infected foliage and treat with a fungicide to stop leaf spots in their tracks. Make sure you start watering from beneath to discourage future leaf spot disease. Rust. Like leaf spot, rust is often no big deal if caught early. Rust fungus will appear as yellow patches on the top side of the leaf, with corresponding orange-brown spores on the underside. Wet or humid conditions also encourage rust, so promote air flow when you apply a fungicide, or you’ll risk the rust returning. Fungal rot. Both crown rot and stem rot end up causing the collapse of lily of the valley plants. Stem rot will cause leaves to develop yellow or gray specks that later expand into brown sunken spots. From there, the fungus spreads to the crown and destroys it. In crown rot, the fungal pathogen starts at the crown, causing leaves to emerge discolored and the entire plant to collapse in a few days. Both are practically incurable. You’re best to dig out infected plants and toss them to protect any plants that are still unaffected. Southern blight. Southern blight can be devastating to growers of a variety of crops, since Sclerotium rolfsii isn’t very picky about its victims. If you see tan or yellow ball-like structures on the base of your lily of the valley and the plants are wilting or dying, remove them right away, as well as the soil around the plant, and sterilize your tools thoroughly with bleach. You may be able to protect uninfected plants with a protectant fungicide.

Lily of the valley is known for its sweet fragrance and delicate white nodding flowers. When those two things are accompanied with yellow foliage, it’s time to dig a little deeper to figure out what’s wrong. Keep reading to learn more about yellowing lily of the valley plants.

About Yellow Leaves on Lily of the Valley

Everyone has their “pet” plant. That one specimen or stand that they’d throw any kind of treatment at or try any crazy thing just to keep it going another day. For a lot of gardeners that plant is lily of the valley. That’s why when lily of the valley has yellow leaves, gardeners start to panic – and rightfully so. Yellow leaves on lily of the valley could mean a lot of different things, some that are easy, some that are not so easy. Due to this, it’s important to explore reasons why your lily of the valley has yellow leaves, so you’ll know what appropriate steps, if any, to take next.

Why is My Lily of the Valley Turning Yellow?

Yellowing lily of the valley plants may be an alarming sight if you’re new to growing them, but yellow lily of the valley leaves doesn’t always spell disaster. In fact, if it’s getting close to the end of the growing season, it could simply indicate that your plant is going dormant to prepare for its grand entrance next year. Even though lily of the valley are pretty tough plants, they do sometimes get sick, so if the timing seems wrong or you notice other signs that might point to a sick plant, consider these common causes of yellow lily of the valley leaves: Rusts. Rust problems often start out as yellow spots with rust-colored fungal spores on the underside of the leaf. This fungal disease looks pretty serious, but if you catch it early, you can treat it with fungicide, and it will clear up. Just make sure to alleviate conditions that favor fungal growth, like overcrowding and overly wet soil. Foliar nematode. If just the areas between the veins are turning yellow, before ultimately turning brown, you may have a problem with foliar nematodes. These buggers are hard to get rid of, so the best bet is to destroy infected plants. In the future, don’t water the leaves of your lily of the valley to discourage foliar nematodes from invading. Stem rot. When your lily of the valley has yellow specks on the surface of its leaves, it could point to stem rot. Spots may be yellow or grayish, but they’ll quickly turn brown as the fungus spreads to the crown. There’s no way to save this plant, unfortunately, so it’s best to discard it and either sterilize the soil around it or discard that as well so you don’t spread the fungus.

A fetching spring perennial, lily of the valley is a native of temperate Europe and Asia. It thrives as a landscape plant in the cooler, moderate ranges of North America. Its sweetly fragrant small, white flowers are a harbinger of summer's warmth. It is not a difficult plant to grow but does require some light maintenance, especially consistent water. There are few disease issues or lily of the valley pests. These are easily managed provided you know what you are looking for and how to treat the problem. Learn what pests on lily of the valley might be of concern, and how to identify and combat them.

Are There Animals That Eat Lily of the Valley?

Over time, a lily of the valley patch will spread and fill in with broad, scooping leaves and the tiny, delicate blooms. There are few animals that eat lily of the valley, as the bulbs contain a toxin that even rodents find distasteful. Even deer do not browse the leaves and flowers. The ASPCA cautions home growers against having lily of the valley in the landscape. The plant is extremely toxic to cats, dogs, and even horses. Most wild creatures avoid the plant and its rhizomes. This woodland native produces its own toxins to prevent wild animals from eating it. The toxin can cause diarrhea, vomiting, seizures, arrhythmia, and even death. Insect lily of the valley pests are also not of much concern, although there are some crawling gastropods that find the leaves rather tasty.

Potential Lily of the Valley Pests

Due to the plant's toxicity, it is rarely bothered by any insects. However, insect pests may have a field day on the leaves and some also snack on the flowers. In hot, dry conditions, spider mites may suck sap from leaves, causing them to turn yellow or stipple. Some gardeners claim weevils are also snacking on their lily of the valley plants, but their appearance is usually brief and does not hurt the plant. The most common and prevalent of the pests are snails and slugs. These gastropods will do quite a bit of damage to the foliage, creating ragged holes in the leaves. This does not destroy the plant, but can reduce its vigor, since leaves are important to the photosynthesis process where plants turn solar energy into carbohydrate fuel.

Treating Pests on Lily of the Valley

Slugs and snails do the most damage to the plant. In raised beds, lay copper tape around the perimeter. The pests are repelled by the metal. You may also choose to use a prepared slug bait but some of these are toxic in the garden with children and pets. Fortunately, there are several safe products on the market. Pull away any mulch, where the pests hide and breed. You may also set traps or containers filled with beer to drown the gastropods. Begin trapping three weeks after the last frost to catch the pests. Refill traps weekly. Alternatively, you can go out after dark with a flashlight and pick off the ravagers. Destroy them how you like, but the process is non-toxic and completely safe in the home landscape.

Lily of the valley is a lovely, highly fragrant lily. Although the blossoms look small and delicate, they pack an aromatic punch. That isn’t all about lily of the valley that’s tough though. The plant itself is extremely resilient and hardy, so there is no need to worry when transplanting lily of the valley. A rapid spreader, people find themselves moving lily of the valley all the time with no ill effects to the plant. That said, if you’re new to growing this specimen, keep reading to find out when and how to transplant lily of the valley.

About Transplanting Lily of the Valley

Lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis) really is a durable plant. Some folks say a little too durable. As mentioned, lily of the valley has a penchant for spreading. In fact, this aggressive perennial can take over a bed in short order, which is why some people are constantly removing lily of the valley. In fact, I would dare to guarantee that anyone who grows this lily has plenty of lily of the valley transplants to share with those of you who are lacking. The competitive and aggressive nature of this lily should be considered before planting a lily of the valley transplant. Unless you want it all over the garden, it is best to plant it in a contained area or in a container sunk into the soil.

When to Transplant Lily of the Valley

Much valued for its fragrant summer blossoms, lily of the valley is also prized for its low spreading habit, ideal for use as a groundcover. Lily of the valley prefers moist, shaded areas in USDA zones 2 through 9. Rapacious spreaders, lily of the valley should be divided every three to five years for best and healthiest plantings. Ideally, you would be moving lily of the valley in the fall when the plant is dormant. If that isn’t going to happen within your schedule, don’t worry too much. Lily of the valley is very forgiving. Chances are pretty good that it could be transplanted in the summer with no ill effects, as long as you provide it with plenty of irrigation.

How to Transplant Lily of the Valley

Divide lily of the valley when the plant is dormant, or really whenever. Dig up the small rhizomes, called pips. Gently separate them and replant them about 4 inches (10 cm.) apart. Don’t worry about setting them out too far apart, as they will fill in rapidly. Water the pips in well after transplanting and keep them moist, not saturated.

Is lily of the valley invasive? Lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis) is a perennial plant that grows from stem-like underground rhizomes that spread horizontally, often with amazing speed. It also reproduces from seeds. Exactly how invasive is lily of the valley?

Should I Plant Lily of the Valley?

The lily of the valley plant has escaped cultivation and has been placed on invasive plant lists in some states, primarily for its tendency to form large colonies that threaten native plants.

It is especially happy in shady, wooded areas and doesn’t always do well in poor, dry soil or intense sunlight. In less suitable areas, it may not be invasive in the strictest sense of the word, but lily of the valley certainly has aggressive tendencies that may prompt you to think twice before planting this lovely, innocent-looking little plant. Let’s consider the pros and cons:

Controlling Lily of the Valley

While there are no guarantees with the control of this plant, the following tips may help you reign in lily of the valley’s rampant growth.

1. Dig the rhizomes with a shovel or spade. Sift the soil carefully with your hands, as even a tiny piece of rhizome will generate a new plant and eventually, a new colony. 

2. If possible, cover the area with cardboard to block growth of any new rhizomes. Leave the cover in place for at least six months. 

3. Cover the area with mulch if you want to camouflage the cardboard.

4. Mow the plants frequently to prevent development of seeds. This is a good way to deal with lily of the valley in your lawn. 

5. Consider growing the plant in containers

6. As a last resort, control the plants with an organic herbicide. Talk with your local extension service agent about which product is the safest for the environment and health.   

Note: All parts of lily of the valley are toxic and may irritate the skin. Always wear gloves when handling the rhizomes – or any part of the plant.

Lily of the valley is a spring-flowering bulb that produces dainty little bell-shaped flowers with a heady, sweet fragrance. Although lily of the valley is extremely easy to grow (and may even become aggressive), occasional division is necessary to prevent the plant from becoming unhealthy and overcrowded. Dividing lily of the valley is simple, doesn’t take a lot of time, and the payoff is a more attractive plant with large, healthy blooms. Read on to learn how to divide a lily of the valley.

When to Split Lily of the Valley

The optimum time for lily of the valley division is when the plant is dormant in spring or fall. Separating lily of the valleys after flowering ensures the plant’s energy is available for creation of roots and leaves. Divide lily of the valley four to six weeks before the first average hard freeze date in your area. This way, there is ample time for healthy root development before the ground freezes.

How to Divide a Lily of the Valley

Water the plants a day or two ahead of time. Trim taller leaves and stalks down to about 5 or 6 inches (12-15 cm.). Then, dig the rhizomes (also known as pips) with a trowel, spade, or garden fork. Dig carefully about 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm.) around the clump to avoid cutting into the bulbs. Lift the bulbs carefully from the ground. Pull the pips apart gently with your hands or divide them with a trowel or other sharp garden tool. If necessary, snip through tangled roots with garden shears. Discard any pips that appear soft, rotten, or unhealthy. Plant the divided pips immediately into a shady spot where the soil has been amended with compost or well-rotted manure. Allow 4 or 5 inches (10-13 cm.) between each pip. If you are planting an entire clump, allow 1 to 2 feet (31-61 cm.). Water well until the area is evenly moist but not saturated.

Few spring flowers are as charming as the nodding, fragrant lily of the valley. These woodland flowers are native to Eurasia but have become very popular landscape plants in North America and many other regions.

However, behind their cute exterior and pleasant scent lies a potential villain. Is lily of the valley safe for gardens?

Lily of the valley toxicity makes it unsafe to have around children and pets. The plant is so dangerous that ingestion could result in a trip to the emergency room, or in rare cases, death.

Is Lily of the Valley Safe for Gardens?

Sometimes the smallest organisms pack the biggest wallop. This is the case with lily of the valley.

Is lily of the valley poisonous? All parts of the plant are considered potentially toxic. The plant contains over 30 cardiac glycosides, many of which inhibit the heart's pumping activity.

Children and domestic pets are most commonly affected, but even a large adult can be felled by the toxins. In a home landscape where there are no children or pets, lily of the valley is probably safe. However, once you add little ones, cats and inquisitive dogs to the equation, the potential for danger increases.

It doesn't matter if only the flowers are eaten or if the entire stem or roots are consumed. The toxins' ill effects are introduced primarily gastronomically, although there are also contact dermatitis reports. The most common effects are stomach ache, blurred vision, slow and irregular pulse, and in severe cases, seizures, vomiting and diarrhea, heart arrhythmia, and even death.

Lily of the valley toxicity is severe and difficult to treat. A rapid trip to the hospital is required even in cases of suspected ingestion.

Toxicity of Lily of the Valley

Lily of the valley can be fatal if ingested, especially to children.

The plants' cardiac glycosides create an effect much like exposure to that of Digitalis, found in foxglove. The plant is classified as a "1" on the poison scale, which means it has major toxicity that can lead to death. It is also a "3" due to its often severe dermatitis.

Convallatoxin and convallamarin are two of the main toxic glycosides in lily of the valley, but there are numerous others as well as saponins, which have not been well researched and whose method of action are not fully understood. The overwhelming effect is one of a cardiac episode.

Experts recommend calling 911 and a Poison Control Center if any part of the plant is ingested.

Note: As little as two leaves of the plant can be a fatal dose in young children and pets. If this plant is present in your landscape, it is wise to remove it. This can help prevent any accidents with lily of the valley poisoning and keep the garden safe for everyone.

Lily of the valley plants produces a delicate, fragrant flower that is unmistakable and a great addition to the garden (provided you manage to keep their spread in check). What kind of selection is out there? There’s a lot more to lily of the valley than just its sweet scent. Keep reading to learn more about the different lily of the valley plant types.

Common Types of Lily of the Valley

Common lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis) has dark green leaves, tops out at about 10 inches (25 cm.) in height, and produces small, extremely fragrant, white flowers. As long as it’s contained from taking over the garden, you can’t go wrong with this variety. There are, however, a large number of interesting cultivars that set themselves apart.

Other Kinds of Lily of the Valley Plants

Lily of the valley doesn’t necessarily mean white flowers anymore. There are many lily of the valley varieties that produce pink blooms. “Rosea” is a cultivar of the plant that has flowers with a pink tinge to them. The amount and depth of the pink can vary from specimen to specimen. Another way to introduce more color to your lily of the valley patch is to choose a variety with variegated leaves. “Albomarginata” has white edges, while “Albostriata” has white stripes that fade somewhat to green as the summer wears on. Yellow and bright light green striping can be found in varieties like “Aureovariegata,” “Hardwick Hall,” and “Crema da Mint.” “Fernwood’s Golden Slippers” emerges with all over yellow foliage that never quite fades to green. Some more interesting kinds of lily of the valley varieties are grown for their size. “Bordeaux” and “Flore Pleno” will grow to a foot (31 cm.) tall. “Fortin Giant” can reach all the way to 18 inches (46 cm.) in height. “Flore Pleno,” as well as being tall, produces large double flowers. “Dorien” also has larger than normal flowers.

Lily of the valley is a delightful spring bloom with tiny, bell-shaped white flowers. It does well in shadier areas of the garden and can even be a pretty groundcover; but when your lily of the valley isn’t blossoming, all you have is a lot of greenery.

Growing Lily of the Valley

Lily of the valley generally does not require much care. As a perennial, you can typically put it in the ground and let it spread to fill out a bed or shady space, watching it come back denser year after year. The conditions that this flower likes include partial shade and moist, loose soil. If it gets too dry, especially, the plant will not flourish. Like other perennial bloomers, lily of the valley flowers in spring and summer and goes dormant with no blooms in fall and winter. It is hardy in cold temperatures, all the way to USDA zone 2. It will not do well in zones higher than 9, where it is too warm in the winter to give it an adequate dormant period. No lily of the valley flowers one year may mean that your plants are not getting exactly what they need, but you can likely figure out and solve the issue to get blooms next year.

Fixing a Lily of the Valley Not Blooming

If your lily of the valley won’t bloom, it may just be that you need to be more patient. Some gardeners have reported that they have boom and bust years with lily of the valley flowers, but you also may not get many blooms until your plants have been well established in the right conditions. Another issue may be overcrowding. These flowers tend to spread and grow densely, but if they get too crowded among one another they may not produce as many blooms. Thin out your bed late this summer or early in the fall and you will probably get more flowers next year. Lily of the valley plants like to have moist, although not soggy, soil. If you had a dry winter or spring, your bed of lily of the valley may have gotten too dry. During drier years, be sure to water them more to encourage blossoming. Having no flowers on lily of the valley plants is a bummer, but it can be fixed. Correct some of these common issues and you are likely to enjoy an abundance of pretty, bell-shaped flowers next spring.

Lily of the valley is a fantastic flowering plant. Producing tiny, delicate, but highly fragrant, white bell-shaped flowers, it’s a good addition to any garden. And since it can do well in anything from full shade to full sun, it’s a versatile plant that can brighten up virtually any spot. But can you grow lily of the valley in pots? Keep reading to learn more about container growing lily of the valley plants.

Can You Grow Lily of the Valley in Pots?

Lily of the valley is beautiful, but sometimes it can get a little out of hand. The plant grows from rhizomes - fleshy underground stems - and it reproduces itself by branching them out in every direction and putting up new shoots. With good soil, it can get downright aggressive and push out neighboring plants. One surefire way to get around this is by growing lily of the valley in pots. Container growing lily of the valley plants ensures that the rhizomes have nowhere to spread, while still giving you that heavenly scent. And since it’s in a pot, you can move that scent wherever you like.

How to Plant Lily of the Valley in Pots

Lily of the valley can be propagated by division. Either right after the flowers have faded or in the autumn, dig up some of the rhizomes in a lily of the valley patch. You can also buy the rhizomes from garden centers much like you’d buy bulbs. When growing lily of the valley in pots, try to pick a container that’s deeper than it is wide to accommodate its long roots. It’s okay to trim a few inches (7.5 to 13 cm.) off the roots if they don’t fit in your pot, but no more. Use a good standard potting mix. Space your rhizomes 1-2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm.) apart. If you’re planting store bought rhizomes, you should just cover the tops of the buds with soil. Lily of the valley container care is easy. Place your pots in indirect sunlight. If planting in the fall, you may want to bring the container inside until spring. When it starts to bloom in the spring, place it wherever the smell suits you best.

Lily of the valley plants has an Old-World charm with their dainty, dangling blooms and arching foliage. The berries on lily of the valley and all other parts of the plant are poisonous if you eat them. They are pretty when they turn deep red and add interest among the dark green, strappy leaves. Can you plant lily of the valley berries though? Certainly, but the easiest and quickest way to start the plants is by division. Still want to try it? Let’s learn how to prepare the seed and when to plant lily of the valley berries for the best chance of success.

When are Berries on Lily of the Valley Ready?

If you wish to try starting lily of the valley plants from seed, you should be aware of one important fact: lily of the valley seed toxicity. These little lily of the valley seed pods are extremely dangerous to have around pets and children. Since they are so easy to just divide, planting lily of the valley berries is the slow way to go for more plants. Germination is capricious and the seeds must be used as soon as possible and should be ripe. Viable seed must come from ripe berries. The green berries will turn red and then gradually shrivel and turn rusty brown when they are ripe. Waiting for the seeds to ripen can be an exercise in futility because birds and other wild animals don't seem to mind their toxic reputation. To give them a chance to ripen, place small, mesh or fabric bags over the stems where the berries are. They will protect the berries from insects and animals and allow air and light to circulate through. Check the berries on your lily of the valley plant every week until you see them shriveled and darkened. Then it's time to harvest.

Separating Seed from Lily of the Valley Seed Pods

The dried berries can be hard to open without crushing the seed. Soak them in warm water for an hour to plump up the berries and then carefully excise away the flesh. Use gloves to prevent any of the poisonous flesh or juice from getting on your hands. There will be one to three seeds per pod. The seeds do not store well so planting lily of the valley berries quickly is important to success. Choose a lightly shaded area and work the soil at least 6 inches (15 cm.) deep. Incorporate generous amounts of leaf litter or compost to enhance drainage and fertility. Remove weeds and other debris and rake the bed smooth. Plant the seeds 1/4 inch (6 mm.) deep and firm the soil over them. Keep the area moderately moist. Keep a watch on the little plants for the next few years. Slugs, cutworms, and other insect pests will likely find the succulent new stems delicious. Don't expect flowers for several years.

Alternatives to Planting Lily of the Valley Berries

Now that you know how much work it can be, the question isn't, "can you plant lily of the valley berries" but "should you?" Dividing the pips or rhizomes is the fastest way to increase your stock of plants. Division should be done in the fall when the plants are dormant. Dig up a patch of lily of the valley and pull away the little offsets. Plant pips 2 inches (5 cm.) under the soil with the stem area up. Mulch over the area to protect the little plants. In late winter to early spring, pull away the mulch so new sprouts will have an easier time coming up. New plants will have flowers the following year. If you prefer the challenge of planting berries, it can be an interesting project. Due to the variability of seed germination, you can always fall back on division to increase your crop of these darling little white bell flowers.

Lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis) is a popular choice for the early spring landscape, and is one of the most fragrant blooming plants in the spring and early summer garden. Grown most successfully as a ground cover, this shade tolerant flower spreads quickly to create large blankets of petite white blooms that smell delightfully sweet.

It seems most gardeners either love of hate lily of the valley flowers. Their delicate bell-shaped blooms add not only a charming brightness to hard-to-grow shady areas, but they produce a lovely floral scent that lends a touch of magic to any woodland garden.

On the other hand, lily of the valley plants are invasive and poisonous. It's extremely difficult to remove these spreading perennials once they establish themselves in your garden. You also must be careful with lily of the valley flowers if you have pets or children, as all parts of the plants are toxic when ingested.

We'll take a look at both the good and the bad of lily of the valley plants and discuss how to care for these old-fashioned flowers in your garden.

Lily of the Valley Care

The stems of lily of the valley plants are covered with tiny white, nodding bell-shaped flowers that have a sweet perfume and medium-bright green leaves that are lance-shaped, 4 to 8 inches (10 to 20 cm) high and 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 12.5 cm) wide.

This moisture-loving plant forms a spreading mass with red seed pods remaining after flowering, which makes lily of the valley attractive after blooming and very care-free. Growing lily of the valley plants is easy, as they are adaptable and grow as perennials in USDA Zones 2-9.

When to Plant Lily of the Valley

Lily of the valley flowers are most commonly planted in the fall. At this time, prolonged periods of cool weather allow for the development of a robust root system. A proper period of dormancy throughout winter will also be necessary in helping to ensure that new plantings are able to get a quick start the following spring.

Where to Plant Lily of the Valley

Though lily of the valley is generally considered to be quite adaptable, the plant does have some specific considerations. Among these is its ability to spread throughout the garden, sometimes becoming invasive. Lily of the valley control is often a part of basic caring for this plant.

Planting lily of the valley should be done with care, as the manner in which it is able to multiply can become quite problematic. It is for this reason that experienced growers often choose to grow lily of the valley in containers, rather than in the ground.

Before adding lily of the valley to the garden, check with you local agricultural extension to make certain that there are no rules or regulations regarding its growth.

Water & Light Requirements

Lily of the valley plants will grow best in beds that remain consistently moist throughout the entire growing season. Though uncommon, the plants may require supplemental irrigation when conditions are especially dry. Mulch is a great way to help retain moisture and keep the plant’s root system cool throughout the hottest parts of summer.

Lily of the valley will thrive in shaded beds that receive dappled light. This makes them a good choice for growth under trees, or along the sides of structures.

Propagation

Propagation and division play a major role in lily of the valley care. Though general care for lily of the valley is minimal, their spreading habit will need routine tending.

As the plants grow to form dense colonies, growers may find that the production of flowers has decreased significantly over time. When this occurs, dig up with a spade like the Berry&Bird Perennial Spade from Amazon, and divide lily of the valley plants.

Lily of the valley plants reproduce through the production of small, underground rhizomes called “pips.” These pips can be separated and then returned back to the soil. November or December is the ideal time for division.

Problems, Pests, & Diseases

Lily of the valley seldom has serious problems with insects. Common pests of the lily of the valley plants include aphids or spider mites. However, most infestations can be easily treated.

A sudden change in the appearance of the plant’s leaves may lead growers to become concerned. This is especially true of an observed decline in the ornamental quality of the plant’s foliage. Though this is generally a natural occurrence, it may also be the result of some common lily of the valley diseases like leaf spot or blotch.

Is Lily of the Valley Poisonous?

Though beautiful, all parts of lily of the valley are extremely toxic. Those hoping to grow lily of the valley in their yard should use special caution around children and pets, as ingestion of the plant can cause great harm and even death.

Lily of the Valley Varieties

With only a handful of named lily of the valley varieties available to gardeners, common types can be found at most home and garden centers. Plants which produce pristine, white flowers are customary.

However, specialty varieties can also be found. These include those which yield blooms that are double, or open to reveal delicate shades of pink.

When purchasing plants, look for the following cultivars:

• ‘Albostriata’ – This type has dark leaves with white to cream longitudinal stripes.
• ‘Aureomarginata’ – This variety has cream to yellow-edged leaves.
• 'Rosea' – A pink variety, not as vigorous as the white-flowered species but very pretty.
• C. majuscule ‘Greene’ – This North American native is great for naturalistic ground cover and provides a carpet of beauty between other native plants.

This easy-care plant doesn’t require much to thrive. Preferring partial shade and moist soil, growing lily of the valley is easy if you know how and when to plant.

That being said, these plants are adaptable and will grow very well in dry shade too. Lily of the valley can also be adapted to full sun or full shade, depending on the amount of moisture it receives.

Frequently Asked Questions

Note: All parts of lily of the valley are poisonous. Be sure to plant in an area that children and pets can't reach.

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While many people love growing lily of the valley for its attractive, fragrant blooms, some people find lily of the valley invasive, especially when left on its own. This ground cover spreads quickly through rhizomes. For this reason, it normally helps to become familiar with how to eliminate lily of the valley should the situation call for it.

Lily of the Valley Control

For those looking for a good ground cover plant, you can still choose lily of the valley. As long as you plant it in a suitable location, one where it has plenty of space to roam without the threat of invading other plants in the garden, lily of the valley can actually be a welcome addition. Likewise, you could try using edging or sink it in containers to keep the plant in bounds. You could also be vigilant about cutting the flowers before they have a chance to go to seed. Another way to limit the spread of this plant is by growing it in a sunny area. Since lily of the valley is a shade lover, full sun will slow its growth rate. Should you find lily of the valley is still invasive in the garden, you can always dig it up. In fact, digging up entire plant clumps when the soil is moist and disposing of them elsewhere is one of the surest ways to keep lily of the valley under control, though repeated uprooting may be necessary.

Kill Lily of the Valley

So what's the best way to know how to eliminate lily of the valley permanently? In addition to uprooting the plant, the best way to get rid of lily of the valley is to kill it. There are a couple of ways to do this. The first is by smothering the plant. This is best accomplished in early spring just as the plant is beginning to sprout. If it's done any later, the larger plants will need to be cut as close to the ground as possible. Place some landscaping cloth, cardboard, a tarp, or several layers of moistened newspapers over top and cover this with anything from mulch to gravel, or whatever will hold it firmly in place. Leave this in place for at least one growing season, at which time the sprouts (and roots) should be dead. The area can then be cleaned up and replanted with something else or left as is. The other method for getting rid of lily of the valley involves the use of a a non-selective type herbicide. Though it can be sprayed whenever needed, to be most effective, you should spray in early spring while the plant is still rather tender and more susceptible to the herbicide. As with digging up plants, repeat applications may be needed to fully eradicate the plant. Note: Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and much more environmentally friendly.