Bringing greenery inside for the holidays is a beautiful and traditional way to decorate. It’s a promise through the cold, dark winter that life will return again in spring. But you don’t have to get mired down in tradition. This year, try a new way to bring festive greenery into your home: kokedama.

Making kokedama moss balls is an excellent way to get creative with holiday plants. Kokedama is a Japanese practice of wrapping sheets of moss and twine around the root ball of a plant so it can be hung for display. You can also display your plant on a saucer or tray if you don’t have a place to hang it. And using small kokedama succulents is a stunning way to decorate your Christmas tree.

There are many plants suitable for kokedama. Here are four that will make a gorgeous display this holiday season.

Kokedama Plants Perfect for Christmas

Making kokedama can seem a bit daunting, but there is no wrong way to do it! You can make it easy on yourself by purchasing a premade kokedama hanging moss planter, like this one from Amazon. Or you can go the traditional route with sheets of live moss and a spool of natural jute twine, both available from Amazon.

Kokedama moss balls are easy to care for. Simply soak the whole planted moss ball in a bowl of water for 20 minutes when the moss becomes dry, or once a week. Gently squeeze out excess water and let the plant and moss drain for a little while in the sink before hanging back up.

1. Poinsettia

Nothing quite says Christmas like a vibrant poinsettia in the house. Bright red, pink, or white poinsettias will all look lovely against the green kokedama moss balls. Hang smaller kokedama poinsettias or place larger ones on a decorative tray for a gorgeous centerpiece on your holiday table. A kokedama poinsettia will also brighten your entryway and greet guests on a console table.

2. Anthurium

Anthuriums, with their bold red spathes, will add a pop of festive color to your holiday decor. Anthurium plants like bright, indirect light so this kokedama plant will do best near a window that has a sheer covering. To avoid root rot, only soak your kokedama anthurium once the moss ball is fully dry.

3. Amaryllis

Amaryllis blooms brighten even the darkest of winter days and are a fabulous way to add holiday cheer to any home. Up your game by turning a traditional amaryllis bulb into a gorgeous kokedama display. You can hang your kokedama amaryllis in a bright, sunny window for the best blooms, but make sure you keep an eye on the moisture levels since the sun will dry it out faster.

4. Red Bromeliad

There are many different colors of bromeliad plants, but I love a bright red for the holiday season. Display your glorious kokedama bromeliad in bright, diffuse light. Keep your bromeliad moist, but not soggy for the best results in a dry, winter household. You can also use a plant mister spray bottle, like this one from Amazon, to help keep things hydrated.

Festive Kokedama Essentials

Get creative and change up your holiday greenery with unique kokedama plants. I’ll be trying my hand at it this Christmas season!

Peat moss vs. coco coir. How do these two soil amendments compare? Many gardeners were told by their parents and grandparents that adding peat moss to garden and potting soil improves the soil structure. But today ecologists tell us that peat moss is being harvested for this use at non-sustainable rates. Coco coir, (aka coco dust, coco fiber, or coconut coir mulch) is proposed as an alternative.

So let’s look at coco fiber vs. peat moss. Will coco coir actually do the job? The simple answer is yes, but read on for the details.

Peat Moss vs. Coco Coir

The question of coco coir vs. peat moss is more than an issue of which is more effective as a soil amendment. There are bigger things at play here.

Let’s start by looking at these two materials and where they come from. That’s critical because the main advantage of coco coir is that it is not endangered. Peat takes hundreds of years to form and plays a vital role in a wetland's ecosystem. Coco coir is often tossed as detritus.

Peat Moss Pros and Cons

We all are aware of the value of wetlands as ecosystems. They support a multitude of plant and animal life. Peat comes from peat bogs, which are a special kind of wetlands. Occupied by peat mosses, peat bogs acidify the wet soil to the point that only acid-loving plants can thrive there, including unique, carnivorous plants like pitcher plants and Venus fly-traps.

Bacterial decomposition is slowed by the acidity, so as the centuries pass, layers of peat moss are squeezed and compressed into the substance called peat. But there is a limited amount of peat, and more of it is being extracted and used commercially than is being produced.

When peat is extracted from the bog and added to garden soil, it improves the structure of the soil. However, take note: peat does not act as a fertilizer or add any nutrients. Rather, it amends the soil, making it lighter so that air can enter, and the soil can be moist without getting soggy. This helps plants to grow.

Peat moss aerates soil well and is easy to buy in commerce, since it comes from Canada. On the other hand, it is extremely acidic, and once it is wet, it is hard to wet again.

Coco Coir Pros and Cons

So where does coco coir come from? It may not surprise you that it comes from coconut palm trees. Coconuts are harvested and husked before being sold commercially. During this process, the longer fibers are sold for use in upholstery stuffing, rope, and brushes. What about the short fibers? This substance used to be considered detritus and tossed, but today is used in gardening as coconut coir or coco peat. Coir, then, is a renewable resource and its new role in gardening makes constructive use out of a waste product.

Coir holds moisture well and rehydrates easily. Like peat, it is low in nutrients, but works well as a soil amendment. It is less acidic, closer to neutral in pH value. On the down side, it is shipped from overseas and is more difficult to buy in bulk.

Which One Is Better?

Comparing coco coir vs peat moss in terms of practicality for horticulture, both products work well. Coir wets more easily than peat, drains well, and withstands compression better than peat. In addition, it has none of the peat bog detritus that peat has.

But given the differences in ecological impact, there can be no question that in the peat moss vs. coco peat balance, it is far better to buy coco coir than peat.

One of the ways peat moss is used in the veggie garden is to lower the pH of the soil which benefits acid loving plants but how about crops that like a more alkaline soil; what vegetables do not like peat moss? For that matter, what vegetables like peat moss? Since there will be a mix of crops in most veggie gardens, a gardener may want to inquire, “Can I use peat moss in my vegetable garden?” It isn’t as confusing as it sounds. We’ll discuss in this article whether using peat moss in the garden is a good idea for some vegetables, and why.

Is Peat Moss Good for Vegetable Gardens?

Peat moss is used for a variety of reasons in vegetable gardens. For one thing, peat moss helps improve soil structure. It helps lighten compacted soil, improves drainage and fertility and improves soil texture and tilth.

Peat moss helps retain moisture so it is often included in potting mixes but it can also improve moisture retention in garden soils.

Some plants like acidic soil, others prefer alkaline and still others thrive in neutral soil pH. Peat moss can lower the pH of soil making it more acidic, which can be beneficial to some crops.

Peat Moss and Soil pH

Peat moss has a natural pH of 3.0-4.0. It is sometimes used to lower the pH of alkaline soils when a more acid loving crop is desired. Acid loving plants, like blueberries, prefer a soil pH of around 5.5. Most plants grow best in a soil pH of 6.0-6.8.

What Vegetables Don’t Like Peat Moss?

There are quite a few crops that don’t do well with the inclusion of peat moss into the soil. These include:

• asparagus
• beet
• cabbage
• cantaloupe
• carrot
• cauliflower
• celery
• eggplant
• ginger
• gourds
• lettuce
• okra
• onion
• parsnip
• rutabaga
• spinach

What Vegetables Like Peat Moss?

Plants that prefer a pH of 5.6-6.8 and can tolerate a lower pH include:

• beans
• broccoli
• chives
• corn
• cucumber
• grape
• melon
• pea
• pepper
• peach
• pumpkin
• radish
• squash
• tomato

Alternatives to Peat Moss

As well as being bad for many vegetables, peat moss is an unsustainable resource that is best avoided. Some good peat moss alternatives are coco coir, compost, sawdust, and composted bark mulch.

Frequently Asked Questions

Moss campion plant (Silene acaulis) is a rock garden plant native to the Arctic tundra and high mountains of Europe and North America. In the U.S., it is confined to the Western mountains and New England, particularly Maine and New Hampshire. Its mat-forming, evergreen foliage is found tucked away in elevations too high for trees to grow, with harsh winters and short summers. While it cannot survive in the shade, it prefers moist soil.

Also called cushion pink, this perennial herb thrives in USDA hardiness zones 2-9 and is part of the Caryophyllaceae family. Moss campion Silene bears tiny, star-like flowers in late spring.

Growing Moss Campion

Moss campion cushion pink grows in gritty, fast-draining soil in full sun. It slowly spreads an evergreen carpet up to 1 inch high (1-3 cm) that is perfect for rock gardens, containers, or those hard-to-fill spots at concrete intersections. Moss campion accepts light foot traffic, making it an ideal groundcover between pavers.

In late spring to early summer, tiny five-petaled flowers about 0.4 inch (1 cm) across in pink, lavender, red, or white adorn the ground-hugging mounds. It easily spreads from 6 to 12 inches (15-30 cm) Its long taproots keep it firmly anchored wherever it grows.

Moss campion is a tough perennial that prefers moist, sandy soil and cool summers. Heat and humidity can stifle its growth. It is not picky about soil pH, and in its native habitat, soil fertility is poor.

Moss campion cushion pink is not usually bothered by pests or diseases and is a trouble-free perennial.

Propagating Moss Campion Silene

Moss campion plant propagates easily from seed or stem cuttings. It will reseed readily on its own or from purchased or collected seed. Collect seeds in late summer just as the seed pods begin to split. Seeds should be tan in color. Keep the seeds dry and well ventilated till planted.

Seeds can be direct-sown outside in late fall for spring germination. Seeds also can be propagated indoors. Do not cover them, as the seeds germinate better with light. Keep soil moist till seedlings emerge. Stem cuttings can be rooted in moist perlite.

Once established, the plant’s best pollinators are insects, moths and butterflies.

Other Uses

Plentiful in Arctic and Alpine areas, moss campion roots were once used as food. Wild animals will occasionally eat the plant, but it contains saponins and is not highly recommended as food for humans.

If you’re experimenting with ways to display your succulents or looking for an unusual indoor decoration with live plants, perhaps you’ve considered making a succulent kokedama.

Making a Kokedama Succulent Ball

The kokedama is basically a ball of soil containing plants with peat moss combined and most often covered with sheet moss. The translation of Japanese kokedama to English means moss ball. 

Any number and type of plants may be incorporated into the ball. Here, we’ll be focusing on a kokedama with succulents. You will need:

• Small succulent plants or cuttings
• Potting soil for succulents
• Peat moss
• Sheet moss
• Water
• Twine, yarn, or both
• Rooting hormone or cinnamon (optional)

Soak your sheet moss so it will be moist. You’ll use it to cover the finished moss ball. You’ll also need your twine. It is most convenient to use sheet moss with a mesh backing.

Prepare your succulents. You can use more than one plant inside each ball. Remove side roots and shake off most of the soil. Keep in mind, the succulent will fit into the ball of soil. When you’ve gotten the root system as small as you think is still healthy, you can make your moss ball.

Start by moistening the soil and rolling it into a ball. Include peat moss and more water as needed. A 50/50 ratio of soil and peat moss is about right when planting succulents. You can wear gloves, but it is still likely you’ll get your hands dirty, so enjoy. Include just enough water to hold the soil together. 

When you’re happy with the size and consistency of your ball of soil, set it aside. Drain the sheet moss so it is just slightly damp when you wrap the moss ball with it.

Putting Together the Kokedama

Break the ball into halves. Insert the plants in the middle and put them back together. Treat the plant roots, if you like, with rooting hormone or cinnamon before adding them. Note how the display will look. Roots should be buried. 

Mash the soil together, keeping an eye on the round shape always as you’re working with it. You may cover the ball of soil with twine or yarn before enclosing it in moss if you feel it would be more secure.

Place the sheet moss around the ball. When using the mesh-backed moss, it is easiest to keep it in one piece and set the ball into it. Bring it upward and fold it if necessary, keeping it tight. Secure it around the top with the twine. Insert a hanger, if needed.

Use the twine in a pattern you choose to hold the moss onto the ball. Circular patterns seem to be favorites, wrapping several strands in each spot. 

Succulent Kokedama Care

Put the finished kokedama in light conditions suitable for the plants you used. Water by putting it in a bowl or bucket of water for three to five minutes, then let it dry. With succulents, the moss ball needs watering less often than you would think.

Perhaps you're contemplating turning part of your yard into a moss garden or you've heard it's a great ground cover for under trees and around paving stones. But what about weeds? After all, removing weeds from moss by hand sounds like a lot of hard work. Luckily, controlling weeds in moss is not difficult.

Kill Weeds, Not Moss

Moss prefers shady locations. Weeds, on the other hand, need plenty of light to grow. Generally speaking, weeds growing in moss isn't usually a problem. Pulling the stray weed by hand is easy enough, but neglected areas of the garden can easily become overrun with weeds. Luckily, there are moss-safe products for weed control in moss gardens.

Mosses are bryophytes, meaning they don't have true roots, stems, or leaves. Unlike most plants, moss doesn't move nutrients and water through a vascular system. Instead, they absorb these elements directly into their plant bodies. This primordial trait makes using standard weed killers safe for removing weeds from moss.

Herbicides containing glyphosate can be safely used to kill weeds growing in moss. When applied to the leaves of growing plants, glyphosate kills both grasses and broadleaf plants. It is absorbed through the leaves and travels through a plant's vascular system killing the leaves, stems, and roots. Since bryophytes don't have a vascular system, glyphosates kill weeds but not moss.

If you're concerned that using herbicides could discolor or even kill the moss, cover it with newspaper or cardboard. (Be sure to leave the weed stems with new growth leaves exposed.)

Preventative Weed Control in Moss Gardens

Pre-emergence treatments containing corn gluten or trifluralin will prohibit seed germination. These are especially useful for areas where weed seeds blow into moss beds. This type of treatment is not effective for removing weeds from moss but works to prevent new weed seeds from sprouting.

Pre-emergence herbicides require reapplication every 4 to 6 weeks during weed germination season. It won't harm existing moss, but it could possibly inhibit the growth of new moss spores. Additionally, activities that disturb the ground, like planting and digging, will disrupt the effectiveness of these products and they will need to be reapplied.

It's advisable to wear protective clothing and gloves when applying herbicides and pre-emergence products. Always read and follow all manufacturer's labeled instructions for proper use of the product and disposal information for the empty containers.

Note: Any recommendations pertaining to the use of chemicals are for informational purposes only. Specific brand names or commercial products or services do not imply endorsement. Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and more environmentally friendly.

Peat moss is a common soil amendment used by gardeners for decades. Although it provides very little nutrients, peat is beneficial because it lightens the soil while improving air circulation and soil structure. However, it’s becoming increasingly obvious that peat is unsustainable, and that harvesting peat in such huge amounts threatens the environment in many ways.

Fortunately, there are several suitable alternatives to peat moss. Read on to learn more about peat moss substitutes.

Why Do We Need Peat Moss Alternatives?

Peat moss is harvested from ancient bogs, and most peat used in the U.S. comes from Canada. Peat takes many centuries to develop, and it’s being removed much faster than it ever can be replaced.

Peat serves many functions in its natural environment. It purifies water, prevents flooding, and absorbs carbon dioxide, but once harvested, peat contributes to the release of harmful carbon dioxide into the environment. Harvesting peat bogs also destroys unique ecosystems that support various species of insects, birds, and plants.

What to Use Instead of Peat Moss

Here are some suitable peat moss alternatives you can use instead:

Woody materials

Wood-based materials such as wood fiber, sawdust, or composted bark aren’t perfect peat moss alternatives, but they offer certain benefits, particularly when they’re made from byproducts of locally sourced wood.

The pH level of wood products tends to be low, thus making the soil more acidic. This may benefit acid-loving plants like rhododendrons and azaleas but isn’t as good for plants that prefer a more alkaline environment. The pH levels are easily determined with a pH testing kit and can be adjusted.

It’s important to note that some wood products aren’t byproducts but are harvested from trees specifically for horticultural uses, which isn’t positive from an environmental point of view. Some wood-based materials may be chemically processed.

Compost

Compost, a good substitute for peat moss, is rich in microorganisms that benefit the soil in numerous ways. Sometimes known as “black gold,” compost also improves drainage, attracts earthworms, and provides nutritional value.

There are no major drawbacks to using compost as a substitute for peat moss, but it’s important to replenish compost regularly as it eventually becomes compacted and loses nutritional value.

Coconut coir

Coconut coir, also known as coco peat, is one of the best alternatives to peat moss. When coconuts are harvested, the long fibers of the husks are used for things such as doormats, brushes, upholstery stuffing, and rope.

Until recently, the waste, consisting mostly of shorter fibers remaining after the long fibers are extracted, was stored in enormous piles because nobody could figure out what to do with it. Using the substance as a substitute for peat solves this problem, and others too.

Coconut coir can be used just like peat moss. It has excellent water-holding capabilities. It has a pH level of 6.0, which is close to perfect for most garden plants, although some may prefer soil to be slightly more acidic, or slightly more alkaline.

What is a moss slurry? Also known as “blended moss,” moss slurry is the easiest and quickest way to get moss to grow in difficult locations, such as walls or rock gardens. You can also use a moss slurry to establish moss between paving stones, at the base of trees or shrubs, in perennial beds, or just about any area that remains moist. With a lot of slurry, you can even create a moss lawn. It isn’t difficult to establish a moss slurry, so keep reading to learn how.

Before Making a Moss Slurry

In order to make a moss slurry, the first step is to gather moss. In most climates, the best time to gather moss is in fall or spring, when the weather is rainy and the ground is moist. If your garden has shady areas, you may be able to gather enough moss for making a moss slurry.

Otherwise, you can usually purchase moss from a greenhouse or nursery that specializes in native plants. It’s possible to gather moss in the wild, but never remove moss from parks or other public property. If you notice a neighbor has a healthy crop of moss, ask if he or she would be willing to share. Some people consider moss to be a weed and are more than happy to get rid of it.

How to Make a Moss Slurry

To establish a moss slurry, combine two parts moss, two parts water, and one part buttermilk or beer. Place the mixture in a blender, then use a brush or other utensil to spread or pour the blended moss over the area. Add more moss if necessary: your moss slurry should be thick.

Mist or lightly spray the moss until it’s well established. Never let it dry out completely.

Hint: An egg helps the moss slurry stick to rocks, stone, or clay surfaces. A small amount of potter’s clay serves the same purpose.

If you have a tree that is covered in Spanish moss or ball moss, you might be wondering if it can kill your tree. Not a bad question, but to answer it, you first need to know what ball moss is before determining whether ball moss is bad or not.

What is Ball Moss?

Ball moss is gray-green and commonly found on tree branches and telephone wires. It grows in small clumps about 6-10 inches (15-25.5 cm.) across. The tiny seeds are blown on the wind until they land on a tree branch or other suitable area. They stick to the area and develop pseudo-roots that attach to the bark of the tree.

Additional Ball Moss Information

Ball moss is often mistaken for Spanish moss. While it is not Spanish moss, both are epiphytes. Epiphytes are plants that attach themselves to trees, power lines, fences, and other structures with pseudo-roots. Unlike other plants, epiphytes do not absorb water and minerals but rather have the ability to uptake nitrogen in the air and convert it into a form that the plant can use nutritionally.

Epiphytes are true plants that bear flowers and seeds and are members of the Bromeliad family along with not only Spanish moss but pineapple as well.

Is Ball Moss Bad?

Since the moss is not taking anything from the tree, it is not a parasite. Ball moss may, indeed, be found on less than healthy trees more often than not, but that is simply because a sick tree may have less dense foliage, and the less foliage, the more obvious ball moss will become. So really, it is just a matter of convenience that ball moss favors growth on sick trees.

The trees aren’t sick because of the ball moss. In fact, when ball moss dies, it drops to the ground and decomposes, actually providing fertilizer for plants surrounding the tree. While ball moss isn’t bad for the tree, it can look unsightly. Getting rid of ball moss is no walk in the park though. Read on to learn about ball moss control.

Getting Rid of Ball Moss

Since we ascertained that ball moss isn’t a parasite and isn’t causing the tree to be sick in any way, there usually isn’t a reason to get rid of ball moss. That said, if the tree is heavily covered and it’s bothering you, ball moss control may be for you.

Ball moss control can be established using three methods: picking, pruning, or spraying. Sometimes, a combination of these methods is the best way to control ball moss.

• Picking is exactly what it sounds like, physically removing ball moss from the tree. It’s a labor intensive, rather tedious process and it can be dangerous because you may need to get pretty high up to remove the moss.
• Pruning entails cutting and removing dead interior limbs from the tree and/or judiciously thinning the canopy. Usually, most moss is growing on the dead, interior limbs, so removing them removes the majority of the ball moss. Thinning opens the canopy to more light; ball moss prefers low light so it discourages further growth of moss. Ball moss is common on oaks, but when pruning oaks, be sure to paint all pruning cuts to reduce the risk of oak wilt.
• Spraying is a last resort. It involves the application of a foliar chemical spray. Kocide 101 provides sufficient control. Apply at the recommended rate according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Within 5-7 days from application, the ball moss will shrivel up and die. It will remain in the tree, however, until the wind is sufficient enough to knock it out. Because of this, it is recommended to prune the dead wood first and then apply the foliar spray. That way the majority of the ball moss will be removed and you will be maintaining the tree at the same time.

Remember that often it will take a combination of the three methods to remove the ball moss in its entirety.

In recent years, posts online about cultivating moss have skyrocketed. Specifically, those wishing to grow their own “green graffiti” have scoured the internet for recipes for success in their endeavor. While several techniques for growing moss have been debunked as false, many still wish to try their hand at creating beautiful moss art and spreading vibrant, green mosses throughout their gardens.

One technique uses yogurt as a catalyst for encouraging the spread of moss. But does moss grow on yogurt and is this just another falsehood? Let’s learn more.

Does Moss Grow on Yogurt?

While many growers have tried to grow moss using yogurt, the results are often inconsistent. The question of ‘Is yogurt good for moss?’ is one with many answers. While most believe the yogurt helps establish the growth of moss, there has been no definitive evidence that growing moss with yogurt will achieve the desired results.

In most cases, the presence of yogurt in propagating moss serves as an ingredient in which to help adhere the moss to structures. Like many proposed formulas for growing moss on surfaces, the combination of yogurt and moss together has not proven to drastically increase the chances of establishing healthy moss on structures such as walls, bricks, or garden statues.

How to Grow Moss with Yogurt

Nevertheless, the process of attempting to grow moss using this technique is one that is quite simple. First, growers need an old blender to use specifically for this project. Into the blender, mix roughly one cup (240 mL.) of plain yogurt with two tablespoons (30 mL.) of moss. Preferably, it is best to use live moss. However, I have seen dried moss suggested online too.

Blend the mixture into a thick paint-like consistency and then spread it onto the desired outdoor surface. Mist the surface with water daily for several weeks to ensure that it maintains adequate moisture levels.

As with any planting made in the garden, there are several factors that must be taken into consideration. First and foremost, it is important to select moss that is suitable to the environment in which it will be grown. By accounting for factors such as the amount of sunlight and moisture levels, growers can hope for a better chance of success.

Pecan ball moss control isn’t easy, and even if you manage to remove most ball moss in pecan trees, it’s nearly impossible to remove all the seeds. So, the burning question is, what can you do about ball moss in pecan trees? Read on to learn more.

What is Ball Moss?

Ball moss is an epiphytic plant that commonly grows in the interior limbs of trees where conditions are moist and shady. You may also notice ball moss on fence posts, rocks, power lines, and other non-living hosts. Is ball moss bad for pecans? Opinions in the horticultural community are mixed. Many experts think ball moss in pecan trees is harmless because the plant isn’t a parasite – it takes nutrients from the air, not the tree. The thinking in this camp is that when branches fall, it’s because they’re already dead or damaged due to a variety of reasons. Others think that sparse growth of ball moss in pecan trees is no problem, but a severe infestation can weaken the tree by blocking sunlight and preventing development of leaves.

How to Kill Pecan Ball Moss

You can remove ball moss in pecan trees the old-fashioned way – just blast the pesky plants with a strong stream of water or pick them off the tree with a long-handled rake or a stick with a hook on the end. Any dead branches should be removed. If the infestation is severe and hand-removal is too difficult, you can spray the tree with fungicide in early spring. (Keep in mind that the balls may not fall off the tree until it rains.) Repeat the process the following spring to eliminate ball moss that was missed. Some gardeners find that a baking-soda spray is effective on pecan trees with ball moss. The spray works by drying out the moss, which consists mostly of water. Note: Before you declare war on ball moss in pecan trees, keep in mind that the moss is an important habitat for beneficial insects, and serves as an important source of nutrition for many songbirds.

Spanish moss is a rootless plant with stringy, whisker-like growth that often droops from tree limbs. It is abundant along the southwest coastal area of the United States, extending from southern Virginia to eastern Texas. Is Spanish moss bad for pecans? Spanish moss isn’t a parasite because it takes nutrients from the air and debris that collects on the tree, not from the tree itself. It uses the tree only for support. However, Spanish moss on pecans can cause serious trouble when it grows so thick that it inhibits growth of the nuts. Additionally, a pecan tree with Spanish moss may suffer broken branches if the weight of the moss is great, especially when the moss is wet and heavy after a rainfall. A thick growth of Spanish moss can also prevent sun from reaching the leaves. Read on and learn what you can do about pecans and Spanish moss.

Managing Pecans and Spanish Moss

Currently, there are no chemical herbicides labeled for controlling Spanish moss on pecans in the United States, although some growers report success by spraying copper sulfate, potassium, or a mixture of baking soda and water. Any spray should be used with great care to avoid harming pecan trees or surrounding plants. Your local cooperative extension office is a good source of information. Most growers find that simple manual removal is the best means of pecan Spanish moss control. One of the easiest ways to remove Spanish moss on pecans is to use a long-handled rake or a long pole with a hook at the end. However, this can be quite a chore if you have a large number of pecan trees, or if taller trees are out of reach. In this case, it’s a good idea to hire an arborist or a tree company with a bucket truck. With the proper equipment, removing Spanish moss on pecans is a simple task.

It is not uncommon to find lichen and moss on fruit trees. They may both be in evidence or just one or the other, but is it a problem? Lichens are an indicator of low air pollution, so they are good in that way. Moss grows on the north side of trees in moist regions. Lichen also prefers moisture but they are a different organism altogether. Over time, they will contribute to reduced tree vigor. Continue reading to see what you can do about fruit tree moss or lichen on your plants.

About Moss and Lichen on Fruit Trees

Lichen and mosses on trees conjure up romantic images of oaks in Louisiana covered in lacy nets of the stuff. While they both give trees a bit of character, do they actually harm them? Fruit tree lichen is most common in rural areas where the air is clear. Moss on a fruit tree can occur anywhere, provided temperatures are mild and there is plentiful moisture. Both conditions can be found across much of North America.

Moss

There are many types of mosses. They are small plants that grow in clusters in damp, shady locations. For this reason, they often occur on the north side of a tree but they can also grow on any other side in shade. Although tiny, they are vascular plants with the ability to glean moisture and nutrients, primarily out of the air. 

Fruit tree moss may be green, yellow, or any color between. It may also have a dense or loose texture, and be soft or coarse. Moss on a fruit tree has no adverse effect on the plant. It is simply utilizing the tree's shady branches as a nice living space.

Lichen

Lichens are different from mosses, although they may tend to have similar appearances. Lichen is found on the branches and stems of fruit trees. They may look like crusty patches, hanging growths, upright forms, or even leafy mats. The colonies will enlarge over time, so older plants have larger patches of lichen. 

Fruit tree lichen also occurs on plants that are low in vigor and may be an indicator that an older tree is nearing the end of its life. Lichens are a combination of a fungi and blue-green algae, which live and work together to harness the needs of the organism. They do not take anything from the tree but are a good indicator of several factors.

Combating Lichen and Moss on Fruit Trees

Although neither adversely affects trees, if you don't like the appearance of lichen or moss on your trees, you can control them to some extent. In orchards with regular copper fungicide applications, neither organism occurs very frequently. Lichens and moss can be minimized by pruning the interior canopy to let in light and air. Removing close vegetation around the trees can also help, as does good cultural care for a healthier tree. 

You can also manually remove the larger moss plants on stems and limbs. Lichen is a bit more resistant to removal, but some can be rubbed off without damaging the tree. In most cases, neither lichen on fruit tree nor moss will cause any harm to a well-cared-for fruit tree and should just be enjoyed.

What is a Marimo moss ball? “Marimo” is a Japanese word that means “ball algae,” and Marimo moss balls are exactly that – tangled balls of solid green algae. You can easily learn how to grow moss balls. Marimo moss ball care is surprisingly simple and watching them grow is a lot of fun. Read on to learn more.

Marimo Moss Ball Information

The botanic name for these fascinating green balls is Cladophora aegagropila, which explains why the balls are often known as Cladophora balls. “Moss” ball is a misnomer, as Marimo moss balls consist entirely of algae – not moss.

In their natural habitat, Marimo moss balls can eventually reach diameters of 8 to 12 inches (20-31 cm.), although your home-grown Marimo moss ball probably won’t be quite this large – or maybe they will! Moss balls can live for a century or more, but they grow slowly.

Growing Moss Balls

Marimo moss balls aren’t too difficult to find. You may not see them at regular plant stores, but they are often carried by businesses that specialize in aquatic plants or freshwater fish.

Drop the baby moss balls into a container filled with warm, clean water, where they may float or sink to the bottom. Temperature of the water should be 72-78 F. (22-25 C.). You don’t need a large container to start, as long as the Marimo moss balls aren’t crowded.

Marimo moss ball care isn’t too difficult either. Place the container in low to moderate light. Bright, direct light can cause the moss balls to turn brown. Normal household light is fine, but if the room is dark, place the container near a grow light or full spectrum bulb.

Change the water every couple of weeks, and more often during the summer when water evaporates quickly. Regular tap water is fine, but let the water sit out for a full 24 hours first. Agitate the water occasionally so the moss balls aren’t always resting on the same side. The motion will encourage round, even growth.

Scrub the tank if you notice algae growing on the surface. If debris builds up on the moss ball, remove it from the tank and swish it around in a bowl of aquarium water. Squeeze gently to push out old water.

My moss rose plant doesn’t bloom! Why won’t my moss rose flower? What’s the problem when portulaca won’t bloom? Moss roses (Portulaca) are beautiful, vibrant plants, but when there are no flowers on portulaca, it can be disappointing and downright frustrating. Read on for possible reasons and solutions when there are no flowers on moss roses.

When Portulaca Won’t Bloom

When a moss rose plant doesn’t bloom, there may be problems with the growing conditions. Although portulaca is an amazingly low-maintenance plant that thrives on neglect, it still has certain requirements for healthy growth. Drainage: Moss roses prefer poor, dry, well-drained soil. If portulaca won’t bloom, it may be because the soil is too rich or too soggy. Although you can add sand or a small amount of compost to the soil, it may be easier to start over in a new location. (You can also plant moss roses in containers. Use a well-draining potting mix and be sure the pot has a drainage hole in the bottom.) Water: Although moss roses thrive in difficult conditions, they still benefit from a regular drink of water. As a general rule, one deep watering per week during hot, dry weather is sufficient. However, a little extra water won’t hurt if the soil drains freely. Sunlight: Moss roses thrive in intense heat and punishing sunlight. Too much shade may be to blame when there are no flowers on a moss rose. As a general rule, portulaca needs six to eight hours of sunlight per day. Maintenance: Deadheading may be impractical when moss roses are in full bloom, but removing old blooms is extremely effective for stimulating new blooms on a poorly blooming plant. Pests: Aphids are tiny pests that can wreak havoc when they attack a moss rose plant en masse. Unfortunately, spider mites, which love dry, dusty conditions, may be responsible when a moss rose plant doesn’t bloom. Mites are easy to spot by the fine webbing they leave on the foliage. Both pests are easy to treat with regular applications of insecticidal soap spray. Apply the spray in the morning or evening when temperatures are cool, and the sun isn’t directly on the plant.

In one form or another, most plant owners have dealt with sphagnum moss at some point. In spring, when it’s time to plant the garden, bales or bags of sphagnum peat moss fly off the shelves of garden centers. This popular soil amendment is lightweight and inexpensive. However, when perusing a craft store, you may see small bags labeled sphagnum moss selling for just as much, or more, than you paid for a compressed bag of sphagnum peat moss. This major price and quantity difference may have you wondering if sphagnum moss and peat moss are the same. Continue reading to learn the difference between sphagnum moss and sphagnum peat.

Are Sphagnum Moss and Peat Moss the Same?

The products known as sphagnum moss and sphagnum peat moss come from the same plant, which is also known as sphagnum moss. There are over 350 species of sphagnum moss, but most of the varieties harvested for sphagnum moss products grow in wetlands of the northern hemisphere – mainly Canada, Michigan, Ireland, and Scotland. Commercial sphagnum peat moss is also harvested in New Zealand and Peru. These varieties grow in bogs, which are sometimes drained to make harvesting the sphagnum peat moss (sometimes called peat moss) easier. So, what is sphagnum peat moss? It is actually the dead, decayed plant matter of sphagnum moss that settles at the bottom of the sphagnum bogs. Many of the sphagnum bogs that are harvested for commercially sold sphagnum peat moss have built up in the bottom of bogs for thousands of years. Since these are natural bogs, the decayed matter known as peat moss is usually not purely sphagnum moss. It may contain organic matter from other plants, animals, or insects. However, peat moss or sphagnum peat moss is dead and decayed when harvested. Is sphagnum moss the same as peat moss? Well, kind of. Sphagnum moss is the living plant that grows on top of the bog. It is harvested while it is alive and then dried for commercial use. Usually, the living sphagnum moss is harvested, then the bog is drained and the dead/decayed peat moss beneath is harvested.

Sphagnum Moss vs. Sphagnum Peat Moss

Sphagnum peat moss is usually dried and sterilized after harvest. It is a light brown color and has a fine, dry texture. Sphagnum peat moss is usually sold in compressed bales or bags. It is a very popular soil amendment because of its ability to help sandy soil hold moisture and helps clay soil loosen up and drain better. Due to a naturally low pH of about 4.0, it is also an excellent soil amendment for acid-loving plants or highly alkaline areas. Peat moss is also lightweight, easy to work with, and inexpensive. Sphagnum moss is sold in craft stores or garden centers. For plants, it is used to line baskets and help retain soil moisture. It is usually sold in its natural stringy texture but is also sold chopped up. It consists of shades of green, gray, or brown. In crafts it is used for a variety of projects that require a natural flair. Sphagnum moss is sold commercially in smaller bags.

Mosses are fascinating little plants that form luxurious, bright green carpets, usually in shady, damp, woodland environments. If you can replicate this natural environment, you won’t have any trouble growing moss in plant pots. Read on for a step-by-step guide to growing moss in containers.

How to Grow Moss in a Pot

Growing moss in plant pots is easy. Find a wide, shallow container. Concrete or terracotta pots work well because they keep the soil cool, but other containers are also acceptable.

Gather your moss. Look for moss in your own garden, often found in damp spots under a dripping faucet or in a shady corner. If you don’t have moss, ask a friend or neighbor if you can harvest a small patch.

Never harvest moss from private land without permission and never harvest moss from public lands until you know the rules for that location. Foraging wild plants is illegal without a permit in some areas, including America’s national forests.

To harvest moss, simply peel it from the ground. Don’t worry if it breaks into pieces or chunks. Don’t overharvest. Leave a good amount in place so the moss colony can regenerate itself. Remember that moss is a relatively slow-growing plant.

Fill the pot with a good quality commercial potting soil, preferably one without added fertilizer. Mound the potting soil so the top is rounded. Moisten the potting mix lightly with a spray bottle.

Tear the moss into small pieces, and then press it firmly onto the moist potting soil. Place your container grown moss where the plant is exposed to a light shade or partial sunlight. Look for a spot where the plant is protected from sunlight during the afternoon.

Water container grown moss as needed to keep the moss green – usually a couple of times per week, or possibly more during hot, dry weather. Moss also benefits from an occasional spritz with a water bottle. Moss is resilient and usually bounces back if it gets too dry.

Moss and terrariums go together perfectly. Requiring little soil, low light, and dampness rather than lots of water, moss is an ideal ingredient in terrarium making. But how do you go about making a mini moss terrarium? Keep reading to learn more about how to make moss terrariums and moss terrarium care.

How to Make Moss Terrariums

A terrarium is, basically, a clear and non-draining container that holds its own small environment. Anything can be used as a terrarium container - an old aquarium, a peanut butter jar, a soda bottle, a glass pitcher, or whatever else you might have. The main objective is that it be clear so you can see your creation inside.

Terrariums don’t have drainage holes, so the first thing you should do when making a mini moss terrarium is put down a one inch (2.5 cm.) layer of pebbles or gravel in the bottom of your container.

On top of this put a layer of dried moss or sphagnum moss. This layer will keep your soil from mixing with the drainage pebbles on the bottom and turning into a muddy mess.

On top of your dried moss, put a few inches of soil. You can sculpt the soil or bury small stones to create an interesting landscape for your moss.

Finally, put your live moss on top of the soil, patting it down firmly. If the opening of your mini moss terrarium is small, you may need a spoon or long wooden dowel to do this. Give the moss a good misting with water. Set your terrarium in indirect light.

Moss terrarium care is extremely easy. Every now and again, spray your moss with a light mist. You don’t want to overwater it. If you can see condensation on the sides, then it’s already moist enough.

This easy DIY gift idea is one of many projects featured in our latest eBook, Bring Your Garden Indoors: 13 DIY Projects for the Fall and Winter. Learn how downloading our latest eBook can help your neighbors in need by clicking here.

Moss is the perfect choice for that spot where nothing else will grow. Thriving on just a little bit of moisture and shade, it actually prefers compacted, poor-quality soil, and will even be happy with no soil at all. Keep reading for more information about different types of moss and how they can fit into your garden.

Different Types of Moss

There are 22,000 varieties of moss worldwide, so you have quite a few options. A good way to narrow down your choices in what garden moss types to use is to determine what you want to do with your moss. Nothing says a lawn has to be grassy, and a damp, highly shaded yard, in particular, may perform much better with a type of moss that can handle high foot traffic. Moss lawns are attractive too. Moss can also be used as the lowest level in a shade garden to make for another tier in an arrangement of differing heights. It can provide color and texture between bricks and paving stones. It can also be the centerpiece of your garden, particularly if different varieties are used and different heights are achieved with the placement of stones.

Moss Varieties for the Garden

There are a few moss varieties that are especially popular for home cultivation.

• Sheet moss is very easy to grow and can withstand foot traffic, making it an excellent choice for a lawn alternative or breakup between paving stones.
• Ceratodon moss is also good between stones.
• Cushion moss grows up to form a ball-like structure that changes color from dry to wet, making it a good choice for a more moss-centric garden.
• Rock cap moss clings to stones. It’s good for mossy gardens or accents on stones in flower gardens.
• Haircap moss grows relatively tall and looks like a tiny forest. It provides a good height contrast against other moss.
• Fern moss is fast-growing and strong, and another good grass alternative in shady yards.

Now that you know a little more about moss for gardens, why not experiment with growing some for your landscape.

In some areas of the country, moss in a lawn is the homeowner's nemesis. It takes over turf grass and leaves unsightly brown patches in summer when it goes dormant. For the rest of us, moss can be a great alternative to that high maintenance grass. Using moss as lawn provides wonderful springy groundcover that can be walked on moderately -- a no-mow alternative with rich, deep color and texture. It just might be a good choice for your lawn needs. Learn how to grow a moss lawn and see if it's the perfect option for you.

Moss Lawns Instead of Grass

Moss lawns instead of grass save on water, time and fertilizer. The stuff practically grows on trees. Actually it does, as well as steps, rocks, wheelbarrows, etc. You get the idea. Moss is nature's natural carpet, and with the right combination of conditions, it forms a nice alternative to standard turf. In order to have moss lawns instead of grass, it's necessary to meet a few conditions. Moss requires an acidic environment, compact soil, protected sun to semi-shade, and consistent moisture. There are several types of moss. Some of them include clumping acrocarops or spreading pleuocarps. The best way to install moss as lawn is to choose varieties that are native to your region. That way you aren't working against nature, since the plants are built to thrive in the local conditions, requiring less time to establish and even less time to maintain. Once the plants have established, they just need weeding and moisture.

How to Grow a Moss Lawn

Site preparation is the most important step. Remove any plants in the area, and rake it smooth and free of debris. Check the soil pH, which should be around 5.5. If your soil is higher, lower the pH with sulfur applied as directed. Once the soil has been amended, tamp it down to a solid surface. Then it's time to plant. It is not recommended to harvest mosses from nature, as these are important parts of the ecosystem and will take a long time to re-establish in the environment. Mosses can be purchased from some nurseries, or you can propagate moss, making a slurry by grinding up the moss with water and broadcasting it onto the prepared surface. The latter method takes longer to fill in but it has the advantage of allowing you to select a wild moss from your landscape and use it as a moss lawn alternative. The reason this is beneficial is because you know that moss likes your site conditions and is a native moss, which gives the plant a better chance of thriving.

Moss Lawn Care

If you are a lazy gardener, you are in luck. Moss lawns require minimal attention. In hot dry periods, give them 2 inches (5 cm.) of water daily in the morning or evening, especially for the first 5 weeks. As they fill in, pay attention to the edges of moss which can dry out quickly. Be cautious not to tromp on the moss consistently. It can handle light foot traffic but in heavily passed areas, install stepping stones or stairs. Weed moss as needed to keep competing plants at bay. Other than that, moss lawn care is as simple as it gets, and you can put away that lawn mower.

We tend to think of moss as small, airy, green plants that decorate rocks, trees, ground spaces, and even our houses. Spike moss plants, or club moss, are not true mosses but very basic vascular plants. They are related to the family of ferns and closely aligned with fern ecosystems. Can you grow spike moss? You certainly can, and it makes an excellent groundcover but needs consistent moisture to remain green.

About Spike Moss Plants

Spike moss has a similar structure to ferns. The relationship might lead one to call the plant spike moss fern, although that is technically not correct either. These common plants are part of many native flora situations and are nursery plants for some varieties of wild seed, which grow up through them. Selaginella spike mosses are spore-producing plants, just like ferns, and can produce large mats of deep, feathery green foliage. The Selaginella genus is an ancient plant group. They formed around the time ferns were evolving but took a U-turn somewhere in the evolutionary development. The moss's leaves cluster into groups called strobili, with spore-bearing structures on the terminal ends. There are over 700 species of Selaginella that span the globe. Some are moisture lovers while others are perfectly suited to arid zones. Many of the spike moss form into a dark, dry little ball when moisture is scarce. In fact, periods of dryness cause the moss to desiccate and go dormant. This is called poikilohydry. The plant bounces back to green life when it gets water, leading to the name resurrection plant. This group of fern and club mosses are called Polypoiophyta.

Spike Moss Care

Although closely aligned with ferns, spike moss plants are more nearly related to ancient plants such as quillworts and lycopods. There are many varieties available for the gardener, from Ruby Red spike moss fern to ‘Aurea' Golden spike moss. Other varieties include:

• Rock moss
• Lesser club moss
• Pin cushion
• Lacy spike moss

They make excellent terrarium plants or even as accents to beds, borders, rock gardens, and containers. Plants spread from trailing stems and one plant can cover up to 3 feet (1 m.) over a couple of seasons. Where else can you grow spike moss? Over time the plant will adhere to most vertical surfaces, such as fences and boulders. These plants are remarkably durable. In most cases, a pressure washer can't even disturb them. They are hardy to USDA zone 11 and down to cool temperatures of 30 degrees F. (-1 C.). These mosses require rich, well-drained soil in part to full shade. Plant them in a mixture of peat moss and good garden soil to enhance moisture retention. Another useful fact about spike moss is its ease of division for propagation. Cut apart sections and replant them for a carpet of soft green foliage.

How To Support Your Monstera With A Moss Pole

Some plants get on the trendy list and just stay there, sort of like cool kids in high school. These houseplants are the ones that keep showing up in Instagram posts with sleeping cats. 

Monstera made this list some time ago and, with its huge glossy leaves cut out like Swiss cheese, it’s totally understandable. But did you know that monstera is actually a tropical vine and requires staking on a monstera moss pole? Read on for details.

Does My Monstera Need a Moss Pole?

You’ve taken the plunge and now share your home with a monstera (Monstera deliciosa), also known as the Swiss cheese plant or Mexican breadfruit. At first, all goes well, and you watch the forest green, leathery leaves getting bigger and heavier. Maybe they even start to develop the deep “Swiss cheese”  lobes that they are famous for. 

But the stems of the plant aren’t strong enough to hold the plant up as the leaves get larger. Instead of climbing up to 10 feet (3 m) tall, the plant puddles into the container and flops around. That’s because monstera is actually a vine in the wild, using aerial roots to climb up the rainforest trees in Mexico and Central America. If you don’t happen to have any rainforest trees in your home, a monstera on a moss pole will be perfectly happy.

Benefits of Moss Poles for Monsteras

While the monstera you bought came in a container with soil, these plants are epiphytes, or air plants, in the wild. They grow on the surface of trees, getting food and water from nature: rain or the plant debris around them in the jungle canopy. Inserting a moss pole allows the plant to grow in cultivation as it grows in its natural growing environment. 

A moss pole for monstera works perfectly to provide the vine the support it needs. That’s because the plant’s aerial roots penetrate the moss and attach there, making it easy for the vine to climb.  Moss contains water and micronutrients as well, so a moss pole also offers the vine moisture and food as well, providing a second source of water. This helps the monstera to grow tall and healthy and encourages larger leaves with more of the iconic Swiss-cheese cutouts. 

How to Make a Moss Pole for Your Monstera

Yes, you can buy a moss pole from some specialty plant nurseries. It is simply a pole on which moss is growing. They are useful for any climbing tropical plant since the moss on the outside mimics the spongy texture of the rainforest tree bark. Sometimes they are sold with the plant (e.g. moss pole monstera). 

But it’s not very hard to make your own. Get a stake - bamboo or wood works well - and sphagnum moss, sheet moss, or coconut fiber sheet.  Soak the “moss” in water in water for about 15 minutes, squeeze it out and attach handfuls of it to the pole with string. The moss should be about an inch (2.5 cm) thick on the top two-thirds of the stake. 

How to Use a Moss Pole for a Monstera

How to use the moss pole for monstera The final step in this procedure is to assist the monstera in attaching to the stake. This is not necessary in the wild but is important when you are cultivating the plant outside its native realm.

How to Attach a Monstera to a Moss Pole

Insert the “naked” third of the moss pole into the soil of the pot that the monstera is growing in. Place it close to the vine and firm it into place. Attach the stem of the monstera to the moss pole with gardener’s twine. Water the plant thoroughly to help it to establish. 

After a few weeks, start watering the plant as you normally do. As for the moss pole, spray it with water daily.  That keeps it moist and soft so the monstera’s aerial roots can attach easily.

Repotting a Monstera with a Moss Pole

In time, you may need to repot the monstera. How to do this? Very carefully. You do not want to remove or shift the moss pole since the monstera will have its roots well-attached to it. Ripping out these roots is really not an option. Prepare a new container that is a little larger than the first. 

Then enlist the help of a second person to remove the plant from its old pot, ideally with soil intact. Set the plant into the new pot and add more potting soil to fill in the edges and tuck the plant into place.

The art of Kokedama literally translates from “koke” meaning moss and “dama” meaning ball. This moss ball has experienced a resurgence as a modern art form useful for uniquely presented plants and flowers. 

Instructions and classes on the how-to for this skill abound on the Internet and plant forums. A Japanese moss ball makes a personalized gift or simply an interesting accent for a favorite plant specimen. You can practice the art of Kokedama yourself with just a few items and minimal skill.

What is Kokedama?

What is a Kokedama? It is a form of Japanese garden art that is centuries old and tied into the practice of bonsai. It is an accent to that mode of plant display where a moss ball is the focal and supporting point for a sculpted tree or plant. 

The moss ball is fixed to a platform or suspended from string with the plant growing out from the sphere. Kokedama is the practice of taking the root ball of a plant and suspending it in a mud ball, which is then coated with soft green moss. It is a living planter as well as a distinctive display piece. 

They may be fixed to a piece of driftwood or bark, suspended from a string, or nestled in a clear, attractive container. Hanging many of these as a Kokedama moss garden is called a string garden.

Materials for Making Kokedama Moss Balls

The traditional art form relied upon a carefully composed soil with a heavy clay base that would adhere to itself. This soil is called akadama and also contains peat moss as a moisture retainer. You can purchase bonsai soil or make your own mixture of clay and 15 percent peat moss as a base for the Japanese moss ball. Once you have your soil mixture, you will also need:

• Scissors
• String
• Water
• A spray bottle
• Gloves
• A bucket
• Newspaper or a tarp (to protect your work surface)

Select your plant using a guideline of ease of care, light situation, and ability to tolerate sodden soil. Many tropical jungle plants are suitable for the project, as well as ferns, lucky bamboo, or even ivy. Avoid any succulents and cacti, as the soil ball will remain too moist for these types of plants. 

For the moss, you can use dry floral moss that you soak or harvest some from your surroundings. If you don't want to mess with the clay ball, you can also create a Kokedama moss garden with a floral foam ball as the base.

Creating Your Japanese Moss Ball

Don your gloves, line your work space, and get started.

• Moisten the moss if it's the dried variety by soaking in a bucket of water for an hour. Squeeze it out and lay aside until the last step.
• Add water gradually to your akadama mixture until the medium can be gathered into a ball. Press it firmly all around to adhere the soil mixture.
• Remove your selected plant from its container, dust off the soil, and gently break apart the root ball. Make a hole in the clay ball big enough to push in the roots of the plant. Spray the soil with water to keep it moist and workable during this process.
• Push the clay around the roots and compact it around the base of the stem. Press the moss around the form until all the surfaces are covered. Use twine or string to wrap the moss onto the ball with at least two passes around the surface. Cut away the excess string and fix the ball to a piece of wood, hang in an appropriately lighted area or place in a container.

You now have your first moss ball and can let yourself be really creative next time with different shapes and kinds of moss. Making Kokedama moss balls is a fun, family-friendly project that lets you express your love for plants, and design a one of a kind display.

Often seen growing in trees in southern regions, Spanish moss is normally viewed as a bad thing. Oh contraire. Trees with Spanish moss can actually be welcome additions by adding something different to the landscape. That being said, there are still those who would prefer to get rid of it. So what is Spanish moss and is Spanish moss removal for you? Continue reading to learn more about Spanish moss and then decide for yourself.

What is Spanish Moss?

What is Spanish moss anyway? Spanish moss is an epiphytic plant that makes its own food from nutrients and moisture that it captures from the air and absorbs from surface cracks and crevices on the host plant. It clings to the supporting tree by wrapping itself around the branches. So will Spanish moss kill a tree? Spanish moss is sometimes blamed for problems it didn't cause. Spanish moss takes no nourishment or moisture from trees, and only uses them for protection and support. Therefore, since it doesn't obtain nourishment from the host plant, it does little or no harm. In fact, a heavy growth of Spanish moss is often seen on trees that are declining in health, but it is not responsible for the decline, though it can, however, strain branches and make them weaker.

Spanish Moss Information

Spanish moss (Tillandsia usneoides) is not a true moss, but is a member of the bromeliad family along with tropical plants, such as pineapples. Trees with Spanish moss are a graceful and elegant sight. The tiny blue-green flowers are hard to see, but they give off a fragrance that is most noticeable at night. The plant drapes from the limbs of trees in masses that may be as much as 20 feet (6 m.) long. Several species of songbirds use Spanish moss as nesting materials, and some build their nests in the clumps. Bats may also live in clumps of Spanish moss, and reptiles and amphibians use the plant as a hiding place. Unfortunately, if you experience severe itching after handling Spanish moss, you've discovered chiggers, or redbugs, which also live in the plant.

Spanish Moss Removal

There is no chemical treatment to aid in Spanish moss removal, though herbicide sprays may be applied. The best way to remove Spanish moss is by hand. When the moss is growing on a tall tree, however, this can be a dangerous task and best left to a professional arborist. Even after thorough removal, Spanish moss grows back after a few years. You can reduce the growth rate of Spanish moss by providing the host tree with proper fertilization and watering. But instead of attempting a frustrating and ultimately futile attempt to remove the moss, why not try to enjoy the way this mysterious and graceful plant enhances the garden.

If you've ever wandered through the woods and seen trees covered in moss, you may have wondered if you can grow moss indoors. These velvety cushions aren't regular plants; they're bryophytes, which mean they don't have regular roots, flowers, or seeds. 

They get their nutrients and moisture directly through their leaves from the air around them. Growing moss indoors in terrariums or large glass jars is a decorative way to create miniature forest landscapes to decorate your home.

How to Grow Moss Indoors

Learning how to grow moss indoors is a simple task; in fact, this can be a good project for parents and children to do together. 

Start with a clear glass container that has a lid, such as a terrarium or a large jar. Place about an inch (2.5 cm.) of pebbles in the bottom of the container, then top that with about an inch (2.5 cm.) of granulated charcoal, which you can find in fish supply stores. Add 2 inches of potting soil and mist the soil with a spray bottle filled with clear water. Create the base of your indoor moss garden by placing different sized stones and branched sticks to make the ground look like the forest floor. 

Place larger objects in the back and smaller ones up front. Place sheets of moss over the larger objects and fill in the rest of the area with crumbled bits of moss flakes. Mist the moss, cover the container, and place it in a room away from bright sunlight. Press the moss firmly onto the rocks and soil when planting. 

If the potting soil is fluffy, push it down to firm it into one mass. Keep the sheets of moss stuck to the rocks with fishing line, if need be. The moss will grow over the line and hide it. 

Collect your moss from nearby woods or even your own backyard. Sheets of moss are most convenient, but if all you can collect is crumbled bits, they will grow just as quickly. Make sure to get permission to collect moss if you harvest it away from home.

Moss Care Indoors

Keeping moss indoors is very carefree, as it doesn't need much moisture or sunlight and absolutely no fertilizer. Mist the surface a couple of times a week to keep the moss moist. 

After you mist it, replace the top on the container, leaving a small amount of space for air to exchange. Moss care indoors includes giving the container the right amount of light. A window with about two hours of morning light is ideal if you have one. If not, place the container in the sun for a couple of hours first thing in the day, then move it to a bright spot out of direct sunlight. 

Alternately, you can grow your indoor moss garden on a desk with a fluorescent lamp about 12 inches (31 cm.) above the container.

Imagine walking down a city street and, instead of paint tags, you find a spread of creative artwork growing in moss on a wall or building. You've found the latest in ecological guerrilla garden art --moss graffiti art. Artists and green taggers create graffiti using moss, which is completely harmless to buildings. These creative artists create a paint-like mixture of moss and other ingredients and paint it on vertical surfaces using stencils or creating art freehand. Learn how to make moss graffiti on your own and you can decorate your home with words of inspiration or your garden wall with plant names and pictures.

Information About Graffiti Using Moss

What is moss graffiti? It's green and ecological artwork designed to create an emotional response, just like other graffiti, but it doesn't do any damage to the underlying structures. Making a moss graffiti painting can be much simpler than conventional tagging, since it usually begins with a stencil. Make a stencil of your chosen design with stiff poster board. Make it large enough to stand out, but use simplified shapes. When creating art with living plants, the edges of shapes may grow fuzzy, so use large, blocky images. Mix the moss “paint” in a blender and pour it into a bucket. Hold the stencil up against your chosen wall, or have a helper hold it for you. Use a sponge brush to apply a thick layer of the moss paint to the wall, filling in all the spaces in the stencil. Remove the stencil carefully and allow the moss paint to dry. Mist the area with clear water and a spray bottle once a week to give the growing plants some moisture. You'll begin to see greenery in a few weeks, but the complete beauty of your work may not be visible until a month or so has passed.

Moss Graffiti Recipe

In order to create the moss graffiti recipe, you'll need an ordinary blender. There are a number of different recipes online, but this one creates a nice, thick gel that is easy to apply and will stick well to both wood and brick surfaces. Tear up three handfuls of moss and put them in a blender cup. Add 3 cups of water. Top this with 2 tablespoons of water-retention gel, which you can find in gardening stores. Add ½ cup of buttermilk or plain yogurt and place the lid on top. Mix the ingredients together for two to five minutes, until a thick gel forms. Pour the gel into a bucket and you're ready to create some green art of your own.

If you're frustrated at trying to grow grass in the shady moist parts of your yard, why not stop fighting nature and turn these areas into moss gardens? Mosses thrive in areas where other plants struggle and will cover the ground with a soft and gentle layer of color. Moss doesn't actually have a root system or seeds like most garden plants do, so propagating moss is a matter of art more than one of science. Let's learn more about moss propagation.

Transplanting and Propagating Moss

Learning how to propagate moss is actually quite easy. Prepare the area for a moss bed by removing everything that's growing there now. Dig up grass, weeds, and any plants that may be struggling to grow in the meager light. Rake the soil to remove any stray roots, and then water the ground until it is muddy. 

You can spread moss to parts in your yard using two different methods: transplanting moss and moss spreading. One method may work best for your area or a combination of both. 

Transplanting moss - To transplant moss, pick bunches or sheets of moss growing in your yard or in a similar environment. If you don't have any native moss, look near ditches, in parks under trees and around fallen logs, or in shady areas behind schools and other buildings. Press chunks of the moss into the soil and push a stick through each piece to hold it in place. Keep the area moist and the moss will begin to establish itself and spread within a few weeks. 

Spreading moss - If you have a rock garden or other place where transplanting won't work, try spreading moss slurry on the proposed garden spot. Put a handful of moss in a blender along with a cup of buttermilk and a cup (453.5 g.) of water. Blend the ingredients into a slurry. Pour or paint this slurry over the rocks or in between chunks of transplanted moss to fill in the empty spaces. The spores in the slurry will form moss as long as you keep the area moist to allow it to grow.

Growing Moss Plants as Outdoor Art

Turn moss into a piece of outdoor art by using the moss and buttermilk slurry. Draw the outline of a shape, perhaps your initials or a favorite saying, on a wall with a piece of chalk. Brick, stone, and wood walls work the best. 

Paint the slurry heavily within this outline. Mist the area daily with clear water from a spray bottle. Within a month, you'll have a decorative design growing on your wall in soft, green moss.

Irish moss plants are versatile little plants that can add a touch of elegance to your landscape. Growing Irish moss fills a range of garden needs. It is simple to learn how to grow Irish moss. You'll find growing Irish moss can put the finishing touch on many areas of the garden and beyond. Keep reading to learn more about the care of Irish moss in your garden.

Irish Moss Growing Zones and Info

A member of the Caryophyllaceae family, Irish moss (Sagina subulata), which is not a moss at all, is also called Corsican pearlwort or Scot's moss. Irish moss plants perform in a manner similar to moss, however. They do need some light to maintain the most amazing of emerald green colors found in its foliage. This herbaceous perennial (evergreen in warmer zones) turns green as temperatures warm. Charming little white blooms appear sporadically throughout the growing season. For a similar plant with a more yellow tint, try Scotch moss, Sagina subulata Aurea. Irish moss growing zones include USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 10, depending on the variety you choose. Most areas of the United States can use Irish moss plants in some manner. Not a heat loving specimen, use Irish moss plants in a sunny to partially shaded area. In warmer Irish moss growing zones, plant where it is protected from the scorching sun. Irish moss may turn brown during summer's hottest days, but greens up again as temperatures fall in autumn.

How to Grow Irish Moss

Plant Irish moss in spring, when danger of frost is passed. Space plants 12 inches (31 cm.) apart when first planting. Soil should be fertile and have good drainage. Irish moss plants need regular watering, but should not have soggy roots. Care for Irish moss is simple and includes cutting out browning patches in older mats. Growing Irish moss reaches only 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) in height and when used as a lawn replacement, does not need mowing. If you don't wish for such a drastic makeover, consider the possibilities of growing Irish moss as a ground cover. Use the grass-like mats to spread around pavers or to edge a rock garden. Growing Irish moss is also attractive in containers. Uses of Irish moss are limited only by your imagination.

Spanish moss, while it is commonplace in many a southern landscape, has a reputation for having a love/hate relationship among homeowners. Simply put, some love Spanish moss and others hate it. If you are one of the haters and looking for ways to get rid of Spanish moss, then this article should help.

About Spanish Moss Control

It is important to note that while Spanish moss will not technically harm a tree, it can present a threat, in addition to being an eyesore. Trees with Spanish moss can become overly heavy when moist, which can strain branches. As a result, the branches become weakened and are more prone to breaking. There is no surefire chemical treatment to aid in Spanish moss removal. 

In fact, the best way to kill the moss is to remove it as it grows by hand. Even after thorough removal, inevitably the Spanish moss may still grow back. Or it may return after being carried by birds. That being said, you can normally reduce the growth rate of Spanish moss simply by providing adequate fertilizer and water to your trees.

How to Get Rid of Spanish Moss

Since it can be such a pain and time-consuming job when it comes to killing Spanish moss, it is probably better (and worth the money) to call in an arborist or other tree professional to do the work for you, especially for larger trees in the landscape. 

In addition to hand removal, the most cost-effective method of Spanish moss control is by spraying the trees with Spanish moss herbicide. Again, professionals are the best choices for this, as they are more equipped for handling and spraying large trees that would not be feasible to the typical homeowner. 

There are generally three types of sprays used for killing Spanish moss: copper, potassium, and baking soda. While all are reasonably safe to use and may even provide additional benefits, some may present challenges too.

Copper

Copper sulphate is one of the most recommended methods of Spanish moss removal. Copper is a common ingredient in most dry fertilizers and is an antifungal treatment. That being said, precautions must be taken when using this method to get rid of Spanish moss. Copper is the slowest solution, but it is the most thorough. 

As a systemic spray, it is deemed effective in targeting and killing Spanish moss. However, copper-based sprays can cause damage to tender growth on trees and any overspray may become potentially harmful to the surrounding landscape. It is recommended that trees be sprayed before budding out or later in the season. 

This is an ideal solution for use in more open areas too, rather than near houses because it has a tendency to stain. You should also check the label to make sure it can safely be applied to the trees with Spanish moss you want to treat. 

You can purchase premixed copper sulfate sprays or mix your own using one part copper sulfate and one part lime to ten parts water.

Potassium

Using potassium for spraying trees with Spanish moss is another method that quickly kills this bromeliad. Potassium is considered a contact killer. So, for example, if your tree is sprayed in the morning, the Spanish moss should be dead by that afternoon-- or within a couple days for certain. 

While potassium kills the moss, it won't harm your tree. In fact, it's a root fertilizer that is beneficial for the tree.

Baking Soda

Baking soda is considered the safest solution (besides hand removal) for killing Spanish moss. Yet, again, there are things to keep in mind when choosing this method to get rid of Spanish moss. 

Baking soda has a high salt content, so it shouldn't be used on trees with new, tender growth, as this can cause damage. Like potassium spray, baking soda is also a contact killer and very effective. Prior to use, it is recommended that you physically remove as much of the moss as possible and then spray the affected tree(s).

There is also a commercial product called Bio Wash, adding ¼ cup (60 ml.) of baking soda or potassium bicarbonate per gallon (4 L.) of spray is said to work well.

Moss is an evergreen ground cover that provides lush green color throughout the year, even in winter. Growing moss (Bryophyta) is a lovely way to add something extra to a garden, bringing a quiet sense of tranquility to shaded spaces. It can also serve as an attractive alternative to turf grass in areas where lawns struggle to grow, and may help stabilize soil by forming a dense surface layer.

Once established, moss requires very little maintenance. It does not need mowing and rarely needs feeding. While growing moss is not difficult, success comes from understanding what a moss plant is and the conditions it needs to thrive. Keep reading to learn how to grow moss successfully.

What is a Moss Plant?

Mosses are categorized as bryophytes, which are non-vascular plants. While technically moss is a plant, it lacks the parts of a plant that we are used to seeing. It does not have true leaves, branches, or even roots. 

Since moss has no roots, it must find other ways to absorb water, and this is why it is frequently found in damp, shady areas. Many moss species can tolerate drying out by going dormant and then reviving when moisture returns.

Moss also does not have seeds like many other plants do. It spreads by spore or division. 

Moss tends to grow in colonies, with several plants growing closely together, which creates the nice, smooth, carpet-like appearance that makes moss gardens so beautiful. Dense moss can help suppress weeds and discourage grass growth in shady areas.

How to Grow Moss

Knowing how to grow moss is really just a matter of knowing what causes moss to grow. Things that moss need to grow are: 

Moisture - As said, moss needs a damp location to grow, but will not do as well in a location that is swampy. 

Shade - Moss also likes to grow in the shade, which makes sense as moisture is more likely to linger in these areas and the moss will be less likely to dry out quickly.

Acidic soil - Moss also likes soil with a higher acidity, normally soil with a pH of about 5.5. 

Compacted soil - While moss can be found growing in almost any soil type, most mosses prefer compacted soil, especially compacted clay soil.

How to Start Moss Gardens

The easiest way to start a moss garden is to simply build up the moss you already have. Many yards have some moss already growing in them (and many lawn enthusiasts consider moss to be a nuisance). If you have moss growing in your yard, then you already know that the moss will grow in that location. 

Sometimes all it needs to grow thicker and more lush is a little fertilizer, a little more acid, or a little more moisture. A one to one solution of water and buttermilk will help with acid and nutrients, as will powdered milk. You can also use an acid loving plant fertilizer on the area as well. 

When developing existing moss patches, it also helps to remove competing plants such as grass and weeds. If you do not have moss in your yard or if you want moss to grow in a location where it does not currently grow, you will need to transplant moss. 

Moss can either be harvested (with permission and responsibly) from areas where it is already growing or it can be bought. If you harvest your moss, be aware that different moss grow in different locations. For example, a moss plant harvested from the deep woods will not grow well in an open area with light shade.

If you buy moss, the seller will be able to tell you what exact conditions that moss is suited for. The best time to transplant moss is in spring or fall, when there will be the most rainfall.

Transplant moss by laying a patch of moss in the location you would like for it to grow. If you have a large area you would like to cover, you can use a plug method, like you would with grass. Place small pieces of moss at regular intervals over the area. The moss will eventually grow together.

After you have planted your moss, water it thoroughly. Keep the area damp with regular watering for the next year or so to help the moss establish well. If the moss is allowed to dry out, it may die. Once established, transplanted moss should only need additional water in times of drought.

Moss growing in your lawn or garden can be frustrating if you do not want it there. Ridding lawn of moss takes a little work, but it can be done. Killing moss is really a matter of making your lawn an unsuitable place for moss to grow. Let's look at how to kill moss.

Why Moss Grows in Lawns

The first thing to understand before taking steps for killing moss is that moss is an opportunistic plant. It will not push out grass or kill plants to take hold. It will simply move in to a spot where nothing is growing. Moss in your lawn is normally an indicator that something deeper is wrong with your lawn, and the moss is simply taking advantage of the empty dirt that dead grass left behind. So really, the first step to truly ridding your lawn of moss is to first treat the deeper issue with your lawn. First, check for the following reasons why your grass may be dying, as these reasons not only kill the grass but create an ideal environment for moss.

• Compacted soil - soil compaction kills grass roots and creates a smooth area for moss to hold onto.
• Poor drainage - soil that is continually damp or even swampy will suffocate grass roots and also provide a damp environment that moss loves.
• Low pH - Grass needs a moderate or slightly alkaline soil to thrive. If your soil has a low pH and is high in acid, it will kill the grass. Coincidentally, moss thrives in high acid soil.
• Lack of sunlight - Shade is notorious for making it difficult for grass to grow. It is also the preferred light for moss.

How to Kill Moss

Once you have identified and corrected the problem that was causing the grass to die in the first place, you can start the process of killing the moss and replanting the grass.

1. Start by applying a moss killer to the moss in your lawn. These products normally contain ferrous sulfate or ferrous ammonium sulfate.
2. Once the moss is dead, rake it off of the area that you want to remove it from.
3. Seed the area with your desired grass seed.
4. Keep the seeds moist until the grass has been established again.

Knowing how to kill green moss is not as important as how to have a healthy lawn. Remember, when you kill moss in the lawn, you will only be successful if you take steps to ensure that your lawn is healthy. Without correcting your lawn's problems, you will only find yourself ridding your lawn of moss again. Note: Any recommendations pertaining to the use of chemicals are for informational purposes only. Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and more environmentally friendly.

Moss does not have roots. It cannot take up water the way most other plants do and does not require soil to grow. Instead, moss most often grows on or adheres to other surfaces, such as rocks or tree bark. In some cases, it may even be found growing on rooftops or outdoor furniture. Stopping moss once it becomes a nuisance is sometimes necessary in order to prevent it from overtaking these objects or plants.

How to Prevent Moss

Getting rid of moss is simply a matter of prevention. One of the best ways to do this is to make your landscape unattractive to moss. There are several ways to accomplish this feat. First, decrease the amount of moisture content in the area. One way to do this is by increasing drainage patterns to direct moisture elsewhere. You should also try increasing the pH level in the soil. Adding lime or wood ashes will sweeten the soil, making it more alkaline. Moss dislikes this type of soil; thus, it will not be apt to grow on anything within that general area. Regular pruning can help prevent moss from growing on plants as well. It will also help increase the amount of light, which too, inhibits moss growth.

How to Get Rid of Moss: Physical Removal & Chemical Control

Physically removing moss is usually done in conjunction with chemical control. This helps increase the chances of success with eliminating moss, as killing moss may not prevent its re-emergence. While sulfate chemicals for killing moss are available, it's usually better for plants, as well as the environment, to use organically formulated sprays, if you must use them at all.

How to Stop Moss on Plants

Trees usually provide the ideal conditions for moss growth: shade, moisture, and limited airflow. This is especially true of deciduous trees and shrubs, as they have less acidic bark, making them more susceptible to moss growth. While the most common way to remove moss from trees and other plants is by physical removal, it doesn't prevent future growth. Therefore, you should continue to practice prevention methods once the moss has been removed. The best time to remove moss from plants is during their winter dormancy, as this lessens the risk of damage. Also, pruning may be required. This not only is good for getting rid of moss, but it will help eliminate moisture buildup, encourage additional light, and improve air circulation. You may want to consider spraying the affected plants with organic or copper-based fungicide as well. When it comes to stopping moss from growing on plants or other surfaces, knowing how to prevent moss growth is important. Once you rid the landscape of the ideal conditions for its growth, how to stop moss on plants and other structures should not become a problem.