Mulch put down in spring feels like a one-and-done job, and for plenty of gardeners it is – right up until midsummer, when the beds start looking thin and the ground dries out faster than it used to. That layer that was 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm) deep back in April has a way of settling and quietly vanishing by July. Whether it calls for another bag or two really depends on what's left on the ground.

Any solid guide to mulching will stress that organic mulches are meant to break down over time – that's the point. They not only hold in moisture and cool the soil, but they also add organic matter into the soil as they break down. The catch is, though, is that they don't last forever. So a midsummer mulch refresh is often the price of that slow-release payoff.

Not every landscape needs another layer of mulch in the middle of summer, though, and heaping more where there's already plenty brings its own set of headaches. I'll help you know if your garden needs another layer of mulch, how much to add, and the best type to refresh gardens in midsummer.

Why Does Mulch Disappear?

A few different elements eat away at mulch over the course of the summer season. Living organisms in the soil break down the lower layers of mulch over time, which is actually a good thing. The mulch turns into exactly what your plants want and need to thrive.

But the surface layer of your mulch is another matter. Sun bleaches and dries it out, and hard rain packs it down flat. Week by week, a fair amount of mulch gets kicked around by normal tending and foot traffic or blown clear of the bed by the wind, too.

How fast this occurs comes down to the cause and the type of mulch you used. Shredded bark and wood chips hold up for a good while, often a full season or longer. Lighter materials – think straw or grass clippings – break down quicker and sometimes they're almost gone by high summer. Stone and gravel mulches don't break down at all, though they don't feed the soil either, which is why most flower and vegetable beds benefit from an organic mulch.

Do You Need to Reapply Mulch?

A simple test to check if you need more mulch and when to mulch in summer only takes a few seconds. Just push a ruler down through the remaining mulch until it hits soil and see how deep the layer actually is. Anything under an inch (2.5 cm) or so isn't pulling its weight anymore. It won't hold in much moisture or do much to smother weeds. Bare patches where the dirt shows through are the other easy giveaway, since that's where water evaporates fastest and weeds find their opening.

Weeds tend to reveal on a thin layer of mulch, too. A bed that was clean in spring suddenly throwing up seedlings usually means the mulch has worn past the point of blocking them.

Moisture is the other tell. If the ground under the mulch dries within a day of a good watering, the cover is too skimpy to hold much moisture. A basic soil moisture meter from Amazon takes the guesswork out of this, though honestly a finger pushed a couple inches (5 cm) into the dirt works nearly as well.

How Much Mulch to Add

The goal is a finished depth of 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm), not two to three inches of fresh mulch piled on whatever's already sitting there. Topping up means adding the difference and nothing more.

If an inch (2.5 cm) of mulch is still holding, another inch or so brings it back where it should be. Too much mulch, anything deeper than 3 inches (8 cm), and it starts working against you by holding too much water against plant roots and preventing the soil from breathing.

Keep the fresh mulch layer pulled back a couple inches (5 cm) from plant stems and the base of shrubs or trees. Mulch heaped straight against bark traps moisture where it isn't wanted and invites rot. Those mulch volcanoes you see around trees are a common mulching mistake and are actually really bad for trees.

Spread and level out mulch with a rake. A sturdy landscape rake from Amazon spreads a bag evenly in a fraction of the time of doing it by hand and keeps the depth consistent across the whole bed.

Best Mulch for a Midsummer Refresh

For a summer top-up, you want a mulch that holds moisture well and stays put through thunderstorms. Shredded bark and wood chips are hard to beat for use around shrubs and perennials. They knit together and resist blowing away, and their slow breakdown process helps them last right into fall.

Vegetable beds do better with an eco-friendly mulch like straw or shredded leaves, which stay light and work into the soil easily once the season winds down. But matching the new mulch to whatever's already there keeps your landscape looking cohesive.

One task worth doing regardless of the type of mulch you use: soak your garden beds first. Laying mulch over dry ground just locks in that dryness, which defeats the whole purpose. A bag or two of organic shredded bark mulch from Amazon covers most average-sized beds and a good watering beforehand means the fresh layer of mulch seals in moisture.

Weeding and pruning can be a bothersome task. Whether you're just not in the mood to do it or have loads to catch up on so the task has become unapproachable, it's something a lot of gardeners can resonate with.

But what if this outdoor chore could become a bit lower effort while simultaneously benefiting your plants? In a video posted to Instagram by the Royal Horticultural Society, horticulturalist Louisa Naele introduced me to the "chop and drop" technique and I just had to know more.

I spoke to a couple of gardeners about the method to see whether it works and what the potential drawbacks could be. Here's what they taught me.

What is the Chop and Drop Technique?

The chop and drop approach to pruning and weeding is rather self explanatory. As the video illustrates, when you're going around your yard with pruning shears or garden scissors, you simply leave the debris you clip or pull to fall on the floor without picking it back up.

Leaving the fallen material on the floor saves gardeners time and effort, speeding up what can be an otherwise tedious, time-consuming job.

In the case of pruning, the method points towards "chopping and dropping", but in the case of weeds which are more likely to be pulled up out of the ground than chopped, the method is simply just the "drop" method.

Pros of the Chop and Drop Technique

Aside from saving time, the number one perk to using the chop and drop method in your garden is the way nutrients can be recycled back into your yard's soil.

Sandra Mao, founder of Sandra Urban Garden and the author of Vibrant Harvest, explains: "When plants are cut and left on the soil's surface, they slowly break down and feed the soil. This process supports microbes and worms, which help create healthier, richer soil over time.."

Sanda also noted how "the plant material acts as a natural mulch, helping the soil retain moisture, regulate temperature, and reduce weed growth."

Therefore if you were previously spending money on mulching products for your yard, it may no longer be as necessary.

Cons of the Chop and Drop Technique

The chop and drop isn't without its possible problems, so it's important to consider each of these points before going forth with the technique in your yard.

Firstly, if you leave diseased debris in your yard, you will spread it everywhere. As Staci Hill, co-author of "The Preserver’s Garden", explains: "If any disease is present in the plants, this method of pruning and cutting plants back can perpetuate it." This will only cause more problems for you later on, so be sure to check for diseases first or only try out the chop and drop technique if you're very sure your plants are disease-free and healthy.

Secondly, as Staci notes: "It can also provide shelter for both beneficial and damaging insects." Insects love shelter, but sadly you won't get to control which ones may be enjoying all the pruned debris and pieces of weed scattered around your yard's floor.

If you've experienced problems with insects outside in the past, it's likely best to avoid trying this technique as otherwise you may encourage more to populate.

Sanda also told me it's incredibly important to check whether the weeds you're leaving on the floor have already gone to seed. She explained that "weeds that have already produced seeds can also create more weed issues if left in the bed." The last thing you'll want is even more weeds when you were trying to save time and help your garden in the first place?

Final Verdict

Overall the pros believe there are definitely benefits to using this technique. However, it's best to consider the above "con" points before carrying it out and to possibly combine it with other composting and mulching techniques for the best results.

Shop Supplies

Mulch is one of those garden additions that feels expensive until you realize how much of it is just being given away for free. Tree trimmers need to get rid of wood chips. Coffee roasters are sitting on bags of old husks. Municipal crews are hauling off leaves by the truckload.

None of these operations particularly want the material they’re generating – they just need it gone. So a quick phone call or an email at the right moment puts you on the receiving end of that disposal problem and turns it into a boon for your garden.

There are many benefits of using mulch in your garden. It provides moisture retention, temperature regulation, weed suppression, and gradual soil improvement as it breaks down. The catch with free mulch sources, however, is that the makeup of the mulch is essentially unknown until you inspect it.

Some free mulch is excellent. Some carries weed seeds, pests, or chemical contamination that can cause real problems in your garden. So knowing where to look and what to check before you use free mulch is the difference between a genuine find and an expensive mistake. I’ll share the best places to get free mulch and the signs you need to look for once you find it.

Where to Find Free Mulch

The cost of bagged mulch adds up fast, especially if you’re covering a lot of ground. The good news is that a surprising amount of magic mulch materials get thrown away every single day – and most of them are free to anyone who asks. Here are the best places to find free mulch for your garden.

1. Local Arborists & Tree Services

Local tree removal services and arborists are the most consistently reliable free mulch source that most gardeners never think to contact. Every job these companies do produces loads of fresh wood chips that have to go somewhere. Hauling them to a disposal site costs companies time and money, so that’s where you come in.

Call or email some local tree services to see if they offer free wood chip mulch from their jobs. Many crews will drop a load directly at your address for nothing – sometimes the same day – if you’re close to a job they’re already running. Ask to be put on their drop list, then wait for your free mulch to arrive at your doorstep.

Once it arrives, a garden fork like this one from Amazon makes spreading and turning large volumes of chipped wood mulch material faster and easier than working it by hand.

2. Utility Companies

Utility companies clearing rights-of-way under power lines generate enormous volumes of wood chip mulch and are often looking for somewhere local to put it.

The process for requesting a drop varies by provider, but most have a contact point for this exact purpose. Look up the local utility companies in your area online, then call or email to ask about whether they offer free mulch.

The wood chips they produce are typically mixed species and sizes, which is actually fine for most garden applications.

3. Coffee Shops & Roasters

Coffee roasters and cafes are a slightly different category. They may have burlap coffee sacks that make an excellent sheet mulch or weed barriers. They are a great alternative to landscaping fabric, which often causes more trouble than good.

Coffee shops may also offer spent coffee grounds, which are best used in moderation, but that add a small amount of nitrogen as they break down. You can mix coffee grounds into wood chip mulch to improve the nutrient profile.

Most roasters go through enough sacks and grounds that they’re genuinely grateful when someone takes them off their hands.

4. Your Neighbor's Leaf Pile

Fall leaf collection is one of the most overlooked free mulch opportunities. Neighbors bagging leaves for curbside pickup are essentially handing over free leaf mulch. Mulching with leaves is a great eco-friendly mulch option.

You can also turn curbside piles into leaf mold, which is simply leaves that have been allowed to break down over a season or two. It is one of the best soil amendments available and costs nothing to produce.

Of course, always ask your neighbors first if you can take their leaves before collection day. But most people are happy to have someone take the bags instead of leaving them for the truck.

5. ChipDrop

ChipDrop is a free service that connects homeowners directly with arborists and tree crews looking to offload wood chips. You simply register your address, specify how much mulch you need, and crews in your area can request your location as a drop site when they’re nearby.

The loads are typically substantial – sometimes several cubic yards at once, so have a plan for where it’s going to go before you sign up.

6. Local Resident Mulch Programs

Many municipalities run composted leaf mold, wood chip, or mulch programs for residents at transfer stations or public works sites. They’re often available free to residents with a vehicle large enough to haul it and often take place in the spring.

These programs exist in more towns than most people realize, but are rarely well-advertised. Do a quick online search for your local town or county or call your local public works department to ask if they have a program like this.

If there's a local university of college nearby, they may even offer free mulch through their extension office. Check out their website or give them a call to see what programs they offer or if they can point you in the right direction for other free mulch opportunities.

Always Inspect Free Mulch First

The risk with any free mulch is that you don’t know its history. Fresh wood chips from a reputable local arborist’s crew are generally low risk. You can usually find out what trees were chipped and whether any herbicide was involved.

But material from an unknown pile, a roadside drop, or a municipal site that mixes inputs from various sources is harder to vet. Using subpar materials cause major mulch problems and other issues in your garden.

Weed seeds are the most common headache. If the chips came from an area with bindweed, nutsedge, or creeping thistle, those seeds are coming with your mulch – and they may be at exactly the right depth to germinate. Look the material over before you spread anything. If it seems questionable, pile it up and let it sit for a full season before it ever goes near your garden bed.

Chips from a tree that came down due to common plant diseases or pest infestations can also bring that same problems straight into your garden. It’s worth asking the tree crew what type of tree it was and why it was removed – most will tell you.

Chemical contamination is less common, but still a real concern. If you get free mulch from utility areas, be aware that herbicide application is routine in these locations.

If you’re unsure about any batch of free mulch, give it a sniff test. Fresh, healthy mulch should smell like wood or earth. Anything sour, sharp, or ammonia-like means decomposition has gone wrong and the pile needs more time before it’s safe to use.

Spread a small test patch somewhere low-stakes in your garden first either way. A gardening tool set like this one from Amazon makes turning free mulch samples to check what’s underneath the pile quick work.

Can't Find Free Mulch? Buy It Here

Mulching is one of those gardening jobs that feels deceptively simple. You spread it, you pat it down, and you assume you've given your plants a lovely treat. If you haven't tried the finger test, though, you could be subjecting them to a whole world of pain.

That's right: one of the most common mistakes gardeners make is piling mulch too high, which can quietly do more harm than good. Too much mulch can suffocate plant roots, trap excess moisture, and even encourage rot around stems and trunks.

Too little, of course, won’t do you or your plants that much good either, as it leaves the soil exposed to weeds, temperature swings, and water loss. So where’s the sweet spot? How do we get the Goldilocks ratio of mulch in our lives?

The Finger Test

Look, cards on the table her: this writer is married to a professionally trained gardener, and she's watched him work for many years ago. His answer to the mulching problem is wonderfully low-tech.

Forget rulers or measuring tapes, because this one is exactly what it sounds like: a quick way to measure mulch depth using your index finger.

The aim? To get your mulch sitting pretty at a depth that reaches roughly the second joint of your index finger. For most people, that’s about 2 inches (5 cm) deep. Happily , this is an ideal measurement that works across most garden beds and borders, whether you’re using bark, compost, or leaf mulch.

Why? Well, at around 2 inches, mulch should helps retain moisture in the soil, suppress weeds effectively, regulate soil temperature, and improve soil structure as it breaks down

Go deeper than this, and you risk creating a barrier that water struggles to penetrate. Shallower, and weeds can push through with ease.

Three Mulching Options:

If you're wondering if different types of mulch require different depths, the answer is ever so slightly, albeit not as much as you might think.

Fine mulch (like compost or shredded bark) should stick as close to 2 inches as possible. If you're working with a chunkier material (like wood chips), then you can go a touch deeper, but still aim for no more than 3 inches

Whatever you use, consistency matters more than precision. An even layer will always outperform a patchy one and, while you should reapply in spring or summer, don't keep layering endlessly. If buildup becomes excessive, it’s always a better idea to remove some before adding more.

Whether you stick to the finger test or not, we have one final mulching rule to impart: avoid piling mulch high around the base of trees and plants.

Mulch mountains (or volcanoes, as some call them) like these will trap moisture against stems and trunks, which can lead to rot, fungal disease, and even pest issues. Instead, keep mulch pulled slightly back from the base of plants, leaving a small gap for airflow.

And there we have it; the secret to a good mulching requires just one thing – your hand. or, more specifically, your finger. Honestly, once you've tried it, you’ll never second-guess your mulch again... and your plants will be healthier for it.

Something about the word “mulch” makes me think of a sludgy material, half mud and half yesterday’s oatmeal. As a lifelong gardener, I know this is not true – mulch refers to a product used to tuck in young garden plants and add texture and protection to the soil. I usually mulch with organic compost or chopped leaves. But recently, I’ve been introduced to a much sexier mulch, one that is a lush, dark chocolate brown with a chocolate smell to match. It’s cocoa mulch (aka cocoa bean shell mulch) and it’s definitely special, so stock up early or you might miss out!

Gardeners are familiar with the many benefits of mulching the soil around our plants. Mulch regulates the temperature of the soil, holds in moisture and keeps down the weeds. Cocoa bean mulch does all that, and also gives everyone who passes a delightful whiff of chocolate. Tried and true, but also trendy, chocolate mulch is a great way to prep your soil for spring in a way that looks (and smells) amazing. Here’s why this dark chocolate mulch could be your secret weapon for a late winter soil boost and healthier (and better smelling) beds and borders.

What is Dark Chocolate Mulch?

Cocoa powder (the product used to make chocolate bars) is produced from cocoa beans that grow on cacao trees, native to the Amazon rainforest. Today, these trees are largely cultivated in West Africa. The beans are removed from their shells and fermented, before being processed into cocoa butter and cocoa powder.

Cocoa mulch is made from the leftover shells or hulls of these beans. They are dried thoroughly, then sold as a natural, organic, eco-friendly mulch. This lightweight material is an appealing shade of brown that darkens to a deep, dark chocolate hue as it ages. For the first few weeks after application, this garden mulch will fill your yard with a delightful, subtle fragrance of cocoa.

How Cocoa Shells Feed Your Soil

Cocoa shell mulch performs its duties in an amazing way. These shells are brimming with nutrients, adding the three biggies – nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus – into the soil as they disintegrate. The mulch decomposes slowly, acting as a natural slow-release fertilizer. It also improves soil tilth, structure and aeration over time.

When compared to standard hardwood or cedar mulches, cocoa shells could be considered as top end, something of a superfood of the mulching world. While wood-based mulches often rob the soil of nitrogen as they break down (forcing the soil to work harder), cocoa shells actively contribute nitrogen back into the earth. This makes them far superior for nutrient-depleted beds.

Don’t get confused between cocoa bean mulch and coco coir mulch. While both are eco-friendly, coco coir is made from the fibrous husks of coconuts and is primarily used for moisture retention and soil lightening. It doesn't have the nutrient profile or the signature scent of cocoa bean shells.

Why Winter is Prime Mulch Time

Timing is crucial when you are starting seeds, but it’s less important when you are mulching. Mulch will benefit your garden crops whenever you add it. But late winter is one of the best times to lay down cocoa bean mulch, because of its exceptional ability to keep weeds out. Before it breaks down, it creates a dense mat over the soil that locks moisture in and acts as a wicked weed suppresser.

Because it creates an interlocking mat as it settles, a February application prevents sunlight from reaching early-germinating weed seeds. We’ve all seen how weeds rush in before our preferred plants even pop up their heads from the soil. An early application of cocoa mulch prevents this. By the time the spring sun hits, your weed barrier will be well established, and will also be locking in winter moisture for your emerging perennials.

So, if you’re tempted to try it for yourself, this is basically the perfect time. It’s not only a lovely addition to a chocolate-lover’s garden, it’s a genuinely impressive weed suppressant and moisture-retention buddy for your plants. There are a few brands available online. Organic Garden Elements 100% Natural Cocoa Bean Shell Mulch from Amazon is great for long-lasting color and a lingering hit of “chocolate factory” freshness.

Best Plants to Pair with Cocoa Mulch

There is a bit of a debate amongst gardeners regarding acidity. Pure cocoa bean shells have a pH around 5.8-6.2. While they are slightly acidic, they do not drastically lower soil pH in the same way as, say, fresh pine needles, certain bark mulches, or certain peat mosses might. So I would say this mulch works well with most plants.

To be on the safe side, it’s best to avoid using cocoa mulch around succulents or Mediterranean herbs such as lavender and rosemary, which prefer dry, alkaline, and sandy soils. The moisture-retaining mat of cocoa shells can lead to root rot in these specific plant types.

Plants that thrive in slightly acidic conditions, such as blueberries, certainly won't mind a layer of cocoa bean mulch. It is also suitable for fruits like citrus and figs. Because it is so nutrient-rich, I’ve also found it to be a veritable powerhouse for heavy-feeders like roses, hostas and lilies. Purely in terms of aesthetics, this deep brown mulch is also effective with color-contrasting flowers. It looks fantastic with zingy marigolds, zinnias and salvias, as well as ornamentals with white, silver, or pale green accents.

How to Get the Perfect Finish

Practice makes perfect, as they say. But if you keep these suggestions in mind when you apply cocoa mulch, your garden will thank you.

• Apply a thin layer of mulch around 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) thick. Too thin, and weeds get through. Too thick, and you risk slime mold.
• Apply when the soil is not consistently frozen, and wait for a dry spell to apply the mulch. If the soil is already saturated, the mulch can mold.
• Keep the mulch away from tree trunks and plant stems. Mulch piled near trunks or stems can result in rot. Give a gap of a couple of inches around the base of the plant or tree.
• Wet the soil lightly before applying the mulch, and again after you lay it. This helps it settle in and knit together, preventing bits blowing away in the wind. It’s a good idea to mist the mulch using an adjustable mister such as ExtremeMist Horticultural Ultimate Adjustable Mister from Amazon for a targeted spray that won’t disrupt mulch placement.
• Remember to replenish your cocoa shell mulch every year or so.

Chocolate Caveats for Pet Parents

Raise your hand if you love your garden but love your dog (or your cat) better? I know, it’s a controversial question. But my hand is raised high on this one, and if yours is too, you need to read this section with care. Despite all of the benefits of cocoa bean mulch, it is very toxic to dogs and cats. That’s because it contains the elements of chocolate that can poison pets – methylxanthines, specifically caffeine and theobromine. And it has a high concentration of them.

Because the mulch smells delicious, dogs may be tempted to eat it. Ingestion can lead to tremors, increased heart rate, and even fatal seizures. If you see your pet chowing down, get them to a vet. Another danger for pets comes when the mulch decomposes. Sometimes toxic mold grows on decomposing cocoa bean mulch. The mold is also (and independently) toxic.

So if your pets have free reign of the garden, it would be a mistake to take a chance on this particular mulch, even if it does smell lovely. You will find it’s safer for your inquisitive pets if you stick with traditional wood mulch or pine straw, which is a safer choice.

Cocoa versus Traditional Wood Mulch

There is definitely a coolness factor about using dark chocolate mulch in your late-winter garden. It’s a lovely product, giving an elegant, pebbled look. It’s uber-effective and downright sexy, with its lush color and tempting fragrance. It’s a sophisticated choice, but is it the right one for your patch of earth? To help you decide, here’s how it measures up against trad hardwood or bark mulches:

1. Nutrient Boost: Wood-based mulches can rob the soil of nitrogen as they break down, while cocoa shells contribute nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus into the earth as they decompose.
2. Sensory Experience: Wood chips offer a faint woody scent, which is pleasant in its own way. But the rich, gourmet chocolate aroma that cocoa shells provide is something else.
3. Aesthetic Knit: Because cocoa shells are lightweight and curved, they lock together once watered. This creates a uniform mat that stays put. Traditional wood chips are chunkier and more prone to washing away in a heavy downpour, though you can get modern nugget-style mixes (or finer) for a neater finish.
4. Longevity and Value: Hardwood mulch is cheaper and can last up to 3 years. Because cocoa shells are organic and nutrient-rich, they break down faster, usually within a year. You’ll need to replenish your chocolate fix every spring.
5. The Safety Factor: This may be the deal-breaker. While bark and wood are generally safe for furry friends, cocoa mulch carries a huge toxicity risk for pets. If your dog loves to chow down indiscriminately (like mine), traditional wood is best.

If you think you might prefer to stick with traditional wood-based mulches for pooch-specific reasons, but you like the color of chocco mulch, there are a few possibilities. For a fine texture, Brut Organic Aspen Mulch from Amazon Is a great alternative if you like the dark look but have pets. For another pet-friendly option, try Soil Sunrise 100% Pine Bark Mulch Nuggets from Amazon, which have a similar tone and a pleasant texture.

Is the Chocolate Choice Right for You?

Choosing cocoa bean mulch is about more than just aesthetics – it’s about giving your high-performance flower beds a nutritional head start, while also enjoying a sensory experience unlike any other. If you have a fenced-off rose garden or a front-facing border where you want maximum curb appeal and fragrance (and you don’t have the worry of roaming pets) then this mulch is absolutely worth the investment. It’s a sophisticated way to treat your soil to a little luxury before spring arrives – and it’s a real powerhouse for soil health.

Winter Mulch Essentials

If you’re ready to dive into the lush, choccie-scented bliss of cocoa mulch, make room for these late winter mulching essentials. Then get ready for a yard that will make Willy Wonka proud – and your roses will thank you, too!

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I'm married to a professional gardener, and the number one tool in his arsenal is pure and simple mulch. At least, it should be pure and simple. Too many people, however, use it incorrectly or overlook it entirely.

There are so many benefits to using mulch. In fact, if you choose correctly, it can conserve moisture, suppress weeds, moderates soil temperature, and even improves soil structure over time. Choose incorrectly, though, and you're prone to falling foul of at least one major mulching mistake. At least.

And that's where things get complicated, as there are so many different mulches available, and they all promise different things. So, are wood chips, straw, compost, bark, or something else entirely best for your garden?

Before you reach for the bag on the shelf, remember that mulch isn’t one-size-fits-all. The needs of a flower bed are very different from those of a vegetable patch or a newly planted tree. Some mulches decompose quickly and enrich the soil, while others last years, protecting roots without breaking down. And for those focused on sustainability, some materials (like shredded leaves or straw) are infinitely more eco-friendly than synthetic options.

To help you out, we've designed an easy quiz so that you can narrow down the right mulch for your garden. Answer the questions below, and by the end, you’ll know whether your garden calls for organic, inorganic, fast-decomposing, or long-lasting mulch, helping your plants thrive all year round...

So, how did you get on? If you whizzed through this (and loved it), then you might like to find out your houseplant soulmate test or figure out which flower seed is right for you this spring – and have a bash at our extra special hydrangea personality quiz, too. There's even a quiz to help you determine which vegetable you should grow in your garden this year.

Have fun, and be sure to look out for more quizzes and puzzles coming very soon...

We call it the spring fever trap. It’s the end of winter, the birds are singing, and you can almost smell the damp earth waking up and spring in the air. You’re itching to grab your rake, clear those garden leaves, and start working in the yard or beds. While tidying feels like a productive way to make a garden look better and prepare for new growth, don’t fall into the trap of doing it too soon. Jumping the gun could cost your garden’s soil health and rob it of some of its most valuable players.

Most spring garden prep is best done in true spring – not in the fool’s spring of a deceptively warm February afternoon. Most importantly, you must resist the urge to clear the deep leaf litter from your flower beds that have been in place all winter. Keeping those leaves in place until just the right time serves as a life-support system for your soil and the creatures that make your garden thrive. And if you’re at all confused about when that right time is, this advice is going to make your year…

What’s The Magic Number?

Fortunately, there is a simple rule you can follow to ensure that you time leaf litter cleanup just right. There is no date on the calendar for leaf removal, because nature doesn’t follow a clock – it follows a thermometer. The magic number you need to keep in mind for your spring cleanup is 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10°C).

The rule is simple: wait for daytime temperatures to remain consistently at or above 50°F for at least 7 consecutive days before you pick and dispose of leaves. Why the one-week wait? Many of our most beneficial insects use the degree-day method to wake up. A single afternoon of sunshine isn't enough to signal safety. They need sustained warmth to emerge from diapause (the insect version of hibernation).

If you know that a few warm days are going to be followed by a chill, hold off on those leaves for a while longer. Also, while this magic moment is critical, the timing of when it is safe to rake does vary according to USDA hardiness zone. In zones 8-10, your magic number could hit from late February to early March, but watch out for late-season cold snaps that can catch early pollinators off guard.

If you are in USDA zones 6-7, you need to be more patient, as the magic number may take a while longer to arrive, between late March and mid-April. While you might see early crocus blooms, the soil is still too cold for most nesting bees to emerge safely. Meanwhile, in zones 3-5, you could be waiting from late April to mid-May, so keep that leaf blanket tucked in tight. Your ground is likely still frozen or saturated, and walking on it now to rake could damage soil structure.

Don't just trust the air. Use a soil thermometer to see if the earth has truly warmed up. Often, the air feels spring-like, but the soil stays chilly much longer. You can buy a Luster Leaf Rapitest Digital Soil Testing Kit from Amazon to help you gauge accuracy and stability of temperatures under ground. Let’s explore the key reasons to stick to the magic number when it comes to spring cleaning.

Who’s Sleeping in Your Leaf Litter?

One reason you should keep leaves in place right now is that it houses the next generation of your yard’s pollinators. That pile of brown leaves might look like debris to you, but to the bees and butterflies you love to see, it’s a high-stakes nursery. Leaf litter is also important to other native wildlife. It provides insulating shelter from colder temperatures that would otherwise kill eggs and larvae.

Your native insects rely on leaf litter, old sticks and twigs, soil, and mulch. Other animals that benefit from keeping leaves in place include birds, which forage for insects to eat. Meanwhile, amphibians and reptiles burrow in leaf litter to stay warm in winter. You might be able to spy some of these snoozing garden pest controllers with a Jumbo Magnifying Glass from Amazon if you’re qurying a particular pile.

Picking up leaves too early in late winter and early spring risks killing many of these native and often beneficial critters. By leaving the litter, you are ensuring a more vibrant, pest-resistant garden in the months to come. Key beneficiaries include:

• Luna Moths & Swallowtails: Many iconic butterflies spend winter as pupae disguised as dried leaves. When you bag up leaves, you’re literally throwing away summer’s beauty.
• Native Solitary Bees: Unlike honeybees, many of our 4,000+ native US bee species (like mason bees) nest in hollow stems or just under the leaf layer.
• Ladybugs & Lacewings: These are your free pest controls. They hunker down in the litter, ready to emerge and eat aphids the moment your roses start leafing out.
• Bumblebee Queens: The next generation of bumblebees starts with a single queen hibernating in a shallow burrow beneath the leaves.
• Toads & Box Turtles: These garden guardians burrow into the duff to avoid freezing. Foraging birds like robins and thrashers also rely on this leaf buffet for protein-rich snacks while the ground is frozen.

Nature’s Winter Jacket for Plants

Are leaves good for the garden in other ways aside from supporting native insects and local wildlife? Absolutely, and there’s another strong reason to delay. Beyond the bugs, leaf litter is a structural powerhouse for your soil. Think of it as nature's mulch, keeping the soil warmer than the surrounding air and protecting the roots of plants.

For gardeners in the midwest or northeast, leaves prevent the dreaded frost heave in the transition from winter to spring. This happens when the soil freezes and thaws repeatedly, spitting the roots of shallow-planted perennials like heuchera (coral bells) or pushing newly planted tulip bulbs out of the ground. A thick layer of leaves acts as a thermal buffer, keeping soil temperature stable and roots safe.

If you have tender sleepers, that extra layer of leaf duff around the crown can be the difference between vibrant blooms and frost-damaged sticks. This late winter leaf mulching protects the tender new growth that can appear early in the season, like when your area experiences a few unusually warm days before getting cold again.

Warming the soil is an additional way that leaves protect pollinators, as some lay their eggs in the soil. Furthermore, as leaves begin to break down in early spring, they provide a slow-release meal for earthworms. These worms aerate your soil for free, improving drainage before the heavy April rains arrive.

When You Need to Break the Rule

Of course, there are exceptions to this rule, where you need to make allowances, even with respect to the magic number. Gardening isn't always one-size-fits-all. There are a couple of specific times when you should reach for your rake earlier.

Your lawn is one area of the garden where you might not want to leave a thick layer of leaf litter in place. It can suffocate your grass by blocking sunlight, air, and water. Even if your grass is mostly dormant over winter, these conditions can cause lasting damage or even kill wide swaths of it. A thick, matted layer of wet leaves on a lawn can cause snow mold if left unchecked. If your grass is disappearing under a soggy carpet, rake those leaves off the grass and into your garden beds instead. Use Reusable Leaf Litter Lawn Bags from Amazon to scoop and relocate leaves.

Leaf litter can also be damaging if it’s harboring fungal diseases or other pathogens. Did your fruit trees or roses suffer from black spot or powdery mildew last year? Fungal spores overwinter on fallen foliage. If you see spotted, blackened or diseased leaves, remove them from the property entirely (and do not compost them) in order to prevent a reinfection in May.

What to Do if You Need Tidiness

If the messy look is driving you a little wild, you don't have to sit on your hands. You can be tidy while still being a caring custodian to your garden’s other guests. Here are a couple of considerate ways to tidy up without evicting the residents:

1. The Soft Border Move: Use a light rake to pull leaves away from the very edges of your walkways or the front of your beds, tucking them further back under shrubs like azaleas or boxwoods. Raking leaves within the boundaries of beds creates a clean edge, while keeping the habitat intact. Use a telescopic rake like the Tabor Adjustable Telescopic Rake from Amazon for a targeted action.
2. The Nature Pile Strategy: If a bed must be cleared for aesthetics, move the debris to a wild corner. Cut back messy wooden stems and stalks, and bundle them. It's also safe to gather large fallen branches and tree limbs. Bundle them up or use them to start a dead hedge habitat. Pile behind a shed or under a hedge. This area can serve as a safe nesting until temperatures warm further.

What Else You Can Do Pre-Spring

Can't wait to get started, and need a few proactive diversions to keep you occupied ahead of the big spring cleanup? Channel that energy into these high-impact, wildlife-friendly chores to set your garden up for success:

• Now is a great time to sanitize your garden tools: Use a white vinegar solution like Iberia All Natural Distilled White Vinegar from Amazon for a diluted tonic, and scrub pruners and shovels. You can also sharpen blades so they’re ready for the full weight of the gardening season, using a Felco Sharpening Tool (F903) from Amazon.
• Use a pressure washer or a stiff scrub brush, like the Konex Heavy Duty Scrub Brush from Amazon, to clean algae and grime off garden benches, pavers, decks, planters and ceramic pots.
• Give birdbaths and bird feeders a deep clean and make sure they are replenished. For a great food supplement in late winter, try Kaytee Wild Bird Mealworms from Amazon and high-energy suet treats like Bird's Blend Suet Cakes from Amazon.
• Another great project for this time of year is to create pollinator-friendly habitats. Choose an out-of-the-way area to make a bee house, or get one ready made, like the Nature’s Way Teal Bee House from Amazon.

Need more ideas for getting the most from your plants, indoors and out, and looking for the best seasonal expert advice delivered straight to your inbox? Sign up for the free Gardening Know How Newsletter!

Many people mulch their garden beds in the spring to keep weeds down, keep moisture in, and make their landscape pop. Mulching is one of the most beneficial garden tasks, but can you mulch in the fall?

While you can mulch year round, mulching in the fall has added benefits, but some downsides for certain plants. So maybe the better question is not “Can you mulch in fall?" but “Should you mulch in the fall?”

Let's explore the pros and cons of mulching in the autumn and cover some fall mulching tips.

Benefits Of Mulching In Fall

A variety of organic materials can be used to mulch in the fall, such as wood chips, pine needles, bark, straw, or perhaps the cheapest and most plentiful (if your landscape has trees) is shredded leaves. Most people rake up the fallen leaves anyway so why not put them to work over the winter months?

How does mulching benefit your garden? During warm weather, mulching your landscape helps retain moisture in the soil and protects roots from heat. It helps control weeds and reduces the incidence of soil-borne diseases.

In the fall, a good 2-3 inch (5-8 cm) layer of mulch acts like a cozy blanket, protecting plant roots from extreme temperature changes in the soil.

That layer of mulch will also break down as temperatures warm, adding in some organic matter and lots of microbes effectively and inexpensively plumping up your soil nutrients.

Fall mulch also suppresses weed seed growth, reducing the number of weeds you’ll need to battle in the spring.

Problems With Mulching in the Fall

With every pro, there seems to be a con and this is true of fall mulching. For the most part, fall mulching is a positive process, but it can have some detrimental effects.

Just as it can suppress weed seeds, fall mulch can also suppress seeds from self-sowing perennials. Mulch laid in the fall can trap moisture and foment fungal diseases, although this is more common with heavy mulches like wood chips. Ideally, you should weed the area to be mulched in the fall prior to laying the mulch. But this might be more of a chore than some people desire.

Avoid volcano mulching. This is when you mound the mulch up and around the trunk of a tree in a sort of “volcano”. This keeps the trunk constantly moist which increases the incidence of fungal diseases and the presence of some types of insects like carpenter ants. Be sure to keep the mulch away from the trunks of trees and woody plants and don’t lay it more than 4 inches (10 cm) deep.

Lastly, depending on the mulch you choose to use, you may need to remove or replace the mulch in the spring as temps warm and plants begin to sprout.

Timing

So you’ve decided to give fall mulching a try, but exactly when should you mulch? Again you can mulch any time of the year, but in the fall , plan to mulch just as or soon after the plants enter dormancy.

If you apply the mulch too early, you risk delaying dormancy which in turn increases the risk of cold injury. Applying mulch too early can also encourage rodent habitation as they search for a winter home. Make sure to wait until plants have gone dormant before mulching. Spread a nice thick layer of mulch around your plants quickly and easily with this bow rake from Amazon.

Tips For Fall Mulching

• You can use almost any organic mulch material to mulch in the fall, but lighter weight organics work best. Heavier mulches like wood chips or pine straw become dense piles with no aeration which can lead to fungal diseases. Plus they don’t break down as well as, say, leaf mulch.
• If you do use leaves, shred them first with your lawn mower. That way, they will decompose more quickly.
• You can also use straw as mulch for vegetables and strawberries, but make sure it is weed free. Compost it for a year to kill off any weed seeds.
• Bark mulches such as fir, shredded cedar, redwood, or mahogany chips will do the job and are all more ornamental in appearance. Organic bark mulch from Back to the Roots can be found on Amazon and is an editor favorite.
• Pine needles provide great insulation but they don't degrade quickly so need to be removed in the late winter.
• Grass clippings can be used as mulch, but they are more likely to mat down and lack aeration which can foster fungal diseases.
• You can also use inorganic mulches like rubber, gravel, stone or landscape fabric. These will not break down however, which depending upon your needs, may be a good or bad thing. Landscape fabric isn't sustainable and acts as a barrier for nutrients to go back into the soil.

Plants You Shouldn’t Mulch In Fall

Most plants benefit from mulching in the fall however, any that rely on self sowing and require light for germination, shouldn’t be mulched. This includes wildflowers.

Succulents, Alpine plants and some herbaceous perennials like heucheras and hellebores should not be mulched in the fall.

Mediterranean herbs like oregano, thyme, and sage should not be mulched. They thrive in dry soils, and mulching around them would keep them too wet.

Ornamental grasses and grass-like plants like daylilies, iris, and liriope also react badly to mulching in the fall.

For these plants, mulching can either trap moisture leading to root rot and other fungal diseases, interfere with photosynthesis, suffocate roots or prevent seed germination.

Frequently Asked Questions

A healthy garden starts from the ground up, so it’s important to make your soil the best it can possibly be. That means choosing the best mulch for soil improvement. Thankfully, doing so doesn’t have to be expensive. In fact, there are many fantastic free mulching materials that boost soil health naturally.

When added as a top mulch in the fall or spread around plants in spring, eco-friendly mulches provide food for your soil as well as all the fantastic microorganisms living in your garden. They can also provide greater weather resilience over the winter and help keep plants cool and hydrated in summer.

Best Mulch for Soil Improvement

Here are my picks for the best mulch for soil improvement any time of year:

1. Leaf mold (or leaves)

In the fall, leaves fluttering down from the trees are in ample supply and provide us with a wondrous material for homemade mulches. You can make your own leaf mold. It takes a few years to break down into this much-loved soil improver. Or to start reaping the benefits of mulch sooner, you can use freshly fallen leaves in beds and borders right now.

Water leaves by hand (or wait for rain) so they are less likely to blow away. They provide a lovely layer of protection for soil over winter. Mulching with leaves also creates shelter for a range of invertebrates, which can help with natural pest control, and will feed the soil slowly as it starts to break down.

Many birds (further garden allies) also enjoy foraging through the foliage for insects to eat. In spring, remove your layer of mulch and add to a leaf mold pile to break down further.

If you have a leaf mold supply at the ready, apply it as a top layer directly to the soil. Know also that this wondrous material can be used to make a lovely peat-free seed compost come spring.

2. Homemade compost

It’s very easy to make compost at home and this so-called “black gold” has to be one of the absolute best mulches to improve soil in your garden.

There are many ingredients you can add to supply the traditional mix of brown and green compost components. From veggie peelings, grass clippings, leaves, and shredded prunings to cardboard, broken-up egg shells, leaves, comfrey, seaweed, and wood chips—work with what you have on hand. It feels incredibly good to turn what would otherwise be waste into one of the best mulches for your garden.

3. Chop and drop

This is a permaculture gardening favorite—and for good reason. All those nibbled or pruned leaves and foliage, which you might add to the compost pile, can be chopped off and dropped on the soil in and around existing plants (as well as beds) to provide a protective layer.

The pruned foliage helps nurture the fertility of the soil with their slow release goodness. Then earthworms and soil life gently work their magic and pull them into the ground to provide food.

4. Wondrous wood chips

A few inches of shredded woody material can also be used as an impromptu mulch for soil improvement. If you have a garden shredder, twigs and branches provide a ready-to-use supply of wood chip mulch.

Otherwise, arborist companies are a good bet. They’re often keen to pass this material onto willing gardeners who have the room to house a pile or two.

5. Locally-sourced materials

Depending on where you live, look to other potentially available mulches to improve your soil. Be it foraged seaweed (make sure to find out local foraging rules), grass clippings from a lawn, sheep wool mulch from a homestead, or comfrey. They all work incredibly well.

Frequently Asked Questions

More Ways to Create Mulch Magic

• Avoid the 7 most common mulching mistakes to make sure your garden thrives all season long.
• Eager gardeners often apply mulch early in the season, but this can actually set your garden back. Discover exactly when to mulch your garden to reap the most rewards.
• After your mulching is done, explore other regenerative gardening techniques that will turbocharge your soil.
• Create compost for mulch right in the middle of your garden with an in-ground worm composter from Amazon. Just place it in the ground, add kitchen scraps, and let nature do the work!

Our readers often ask about the best eco-friendly mulch. We have some answers. Garden mulch benefits gardens of all sizes. It slows the growth of weeds, retains soil moisture, regulates soil temperature and when it is natural mulch, breaks down over time, gradually enriching the soil.

While all these are environmentally friendly results, is mulch good or bad for the environment? The answer to this question is complex. The best eco-friendly mulch is generally made from organic materials, but what if these materials are rare or made from threatened species? Odds are that it then isn’t sustainable and hence, not environmentally friendly mulch. Confused? Read on to learn about the best mulch for the environment.

What is an Eco-Friendly Mulch?

Here are some great mulch options that are good for your garden and also the environment:

• Fallen leaf mulch, especially oak leaves, makes a fine organic mulch as do grass clippings, but they both do break down quickly. Leaf mold, which is created as leaves decompose, is a magic mulch material that will transform your garden. Be sure to save some leaves in fall to reap the benefits.
• Pine bark mulch, a byproduct of the forest industry degrades slowly, comes in two forms, and is a rich brown color without any dyes.
• Pine needles, sometimes called pine straw mulch, is a byproduct of the production of paper and other wood products. The needles are raked up from the forest floor. They look very natural in the landscape, break down a bit slower than wood mulch, and are one of the less expensive mulch options.
• Some mulch is made from the invasive tree Melaleuca. Looking much like mixed hardwood or cypress mulches, this mulch is heated to kill any weed seeds. It lasts a long time, longer than pine bark or cypress.
• Mixed hardwood mulch is made from natural wood waste and small tree stems. It looks equally as good as cypress mulch. It settles faster than pine bark but much slower than pine needles or dead leaves.
• Utility mulch is often given away by your local utility company. It's made up of trees and plants that have been cut back because they’re too close to the power lines. While it is a good use of otherwise wasted product, be aware that it may come with weed seeds. This is a better choice for use on driveways and walkways, not flower or veggie gardens.
• Fast-growing eucalyptus is grown in South and Central Florida specifically to be made into mulch. Eucalyptus mulch is longer lasting than utility mulch.

Least Eco-Friendly Mulches

Not all mulches are created equal. Some mulches might seem like environmentally beneficial options at first glance, but actually, they are not.

Colored Garden Mulch

Mulching has many benefits some of which are listed above but for some people laying mulch is all about aesthetics. Often the impact their mulch choice has on the environment isn’t at the forefront of their decision making.

For example, take dyed mulch. While some people are concerned about the coloring or dye used on this type of mulch the real issue is the possibility of contamination with toxins. Sometimes the dyes are carbon-based, sometimes organic, or made with iron oxide. However the mulch is colored, there is no evidence that the dyes used are toxic. The problem is that some of this wood itself may be contaminated with creosote or even arsenic.

Most of the wood used in colored mulch is recycled which sounds good for the environment. The problem is that the wood is being recycled from sources that can be filled with chemicals that are harmful. These wood mulches can end up contaminating the soil, the waterways, flora and fauna, and are harmful to humans.

Dyed mulches also break down much more slowly than natural mulches, which seems like a good thing; there’s no need to replace or replenish the mulch as often. But actually, as the colored mulch breaks down it robs plants of nitrogen, unlike natural mulch which contributes nitrogen as it breaks down.

Rubber Mulch

While not aesthetically pleasing, rubber mulch would seem to be environmentally friendly – sort of. It is made from discarded tires that really have no other place to go except in a landfill. Unfortunately, although rubber mulch is long-lasting, it doesn’t impart nutrients back into the soil, is less effective in controlling weeds than other types of mulch, and is highly flammable.

While rubber mulch breaks down much slower than organic mulches, it is still broken down by microbes. Some of the additives in the tire manufacturing process are toxic to the bacteria that specialize in breaking down the rubber. These contaminated bacteria have been found in a variety of environments, including waterways.

In the end, while recycling used tires into garden mulch seems like a good way to handle this waste, it isn’t. Toxic substances from rubber degradation contaminate soil, landscape plants, and nearby water systems including the plants and animals of that ecosystem.

Cypress Mulch

Above we questioned the use of organic mulches when their sources might be endangered. Such is the case with cypress mulch. At one time, Florida was covered in hundreds of acres of old-growth cypress forest, a habitat for many birds, animals, and insects of these endangered wetlands.

Today, the old-growth forests are gone as are some of their inhabitants. These forests were lost to clearcutting. The remaining cypress of Florida are relatively young trees, but not are not around for long. Thousands of acres of cypress are logged each year to produce mulch. These trees that can live up to 1500 years, attain heights of 150 feet by 25 feet wide, and act as water filters for groundwater are, instead, harvested for mulch.

More On Sustainable Choices

• Keep plants, animals, and the Earth happy with your mulch choice. Learn more about the best natural mulch for your garden.
• Learn how your yard can support native ecosystems and earn an eco-habitat certification.

Mulch is a layer of material added to the surface of soil in the garden, typically in beds and at the base of trees. There are so many benefits of using mulch in the garden. It helps soil retain water and nutrients, reduces soil erosion, suppresses weeds, and protects plant roots from extreme hot and cold temperatures.

New gardeners may understand the importance of mulching but not necessarily how to do it correctly. Yet, when done incorrectly, garden mulch problems can occur and harm the soil and plants.

Avoid these common mulching mistakes that can cause more damage than good.

1. Using Too Much Mulch

While mulch provides several benefits, it’s possible to have too much of a good thing. Excess mulch can trap excess water at the roots of plants. It can also compress and compact the soil, reducing oxygen and water flow.

The good news about using too much mulch is that it’s easy to fix. Simply rake off enough mulch to leave two to three inches in place. Use the excess mulch in other beds or save for filling in patches as needed.

2. Using Too Little Mulch

Likewise, not having enough mulch defeats the purpose of mulching. You won’t get the benefits of water retention, weed suppression, or plant protection if you don’t apply enough mulch. Aim for two to three inches.

If the mulch layer is too thin, simply add more. Keep some extra mulch on hand for patching areas that have thinned due to wind, raking, or digging animals.

3. Piling Mulch Too High Around Trees

Some people pile mulch up around trees in what is known as a mulch volcano. This cone of mulch might look attractive, but it actually harms the tree. The thick layer of mulch up against the base of a tree restricts airflow and can suffocate roots. Excess mulch here also invites pests and moisture that can lead to disease and rot.

As with other mulched areas, keep the layer around any trees or shrubs two to three inches thick. You can even leave a thin ring around the trunk mulch-free. If you have already created a mulch volcano, remove some of the material to let the trunk breathe and dry out.

4. Not Weeding Before Mulching

One of the biggest benefits of mulching is keeping weeds at bay. It’s not a perfect solution, but a good layer of mulch reduces the number and size of weeds, which compete with your plants for water and nutrients.

Don’t assume that a pile of mulch will kill existing weeds – especially those that are large or more established. Weeds are persistent and will find a way up to the light. Always pull weeds before applying mulch.

If it’s too late, you’ll have to dig through the mulch to get weeds out by the roots.

5. Using The Wrong Mulch

The number of different types of mulch to choose from can be overwhelming if you’re new to the practice. Each type has its uses and benefits. Select the right mulch for the job.

Bark and wood chip mulches are good choices for flower beds and around trees, while grass clippings, leaves, and hay are best for vegetable beds. There are plenty of other unusual but magic mulch materials that will transform your garden, like seaweed and sheep's wool.

Also, avoid colored mulches made with wood or bark treated with chemicals and dyes. Natural mulch is always the best option. If you learn after the fact that you used the wrong mulch, consider taking the time to remove it and start over again. Your plants will thank you.

6. Mulching Too Early In Spring

It’s tempting to get outside at the first sign of better weather in spring and start working in the garden. But resist the urge to mulch right away. Give the soil a chance to warm up before adding mulch.

Mulching too early keeps the soil cold, making it more difficult for seedlings to grow and emerge. Wait until mid- or even late spring to mulch.

Use the time to thoroughly weed beds and rake out old mulch.

7. Not Raking Old Mulch

Laying down mulch is not a one-and-done garden chore. Over time, mulch breaks down or gets removed and dispersed by rain, wind, and other forces. It thins and needs replacing regularly.

When replacing mulch, don’t simply lay it over old mulch – take the time to rake the old material. Reusing old mulch is an option, but you need to mix it in with the new material.

Leaving the old mulch in place and piling more on top of it contributes to compaction of the soil, which ultimately suffocates plant roots and reduces water absorption.

You don’t necessarily need to remove the old mulch but you should rake it and fluff up the soil to reduce compaction.

There are many schools of thought regarding garden mulch. The debate continues as to when, how much, and what type of mulch to use. In the end, it all boils down to the gardener’s preferences but a few tips on when to mulch can clear up some of the debate. The best time to mulch may depend upon your zone, the type of plants, and other factors. You can really apply mulch at any time of the year depending upon why you want the mulch.

Why It Matters When to Mulch

Mulching provides many benefits. It conserves moisture in the soil. It can prevent weeds. It keeps soil warmer in winter and cooler in summer. Mulch reduces soil compaction which encourages oxygen to get to plant roots and helps water percolation. It may reduce erosion. 

Mulch can minimize some disease and pest problems. Organic mulch will gradually compost into the soil, increasing tilth and gently adding nutrients. But when to mulch garden beds will depend upon which of these benefits you wish to harness.

Tips for Mulching

Even when mulching to keep the soil warm in winter, it is best to leave some space around plant stems and tree bases. Wet, soggy mulch can cause fungal issues if it contacts plant material. An ideal layer of mulch is 2-3 inches (5-7 cm) deep.

Best Times to Mulch

There is a saying that timing is everything. When it comes to mulching in the garden this proves to be true.

• If you wish to suppress annual weeds, the mulch should be in place prior to the growing season.
• If you want to protect plant roots from winter cold, it needs to be laid before then.
• If it is intended to enrich the soil, it should go down several months before planting.
• As an erosion control, the best time to put down mulch will be before the rainy season.
• To keep soil cool and keep fruits and vegetables from soil contact, mulch needs to be laid when plants are young.
• In vegetable gardens, place mulch around heat-loving plants like tomatoes right at planting time – for cool season crops, mulch earlier.
• To protect plants for winter, place mulch when the soil has cooled but before it is frozen.

So really there is no exactly stated right time to mulch. It just depends on when you need to achieve a certain goal for the product.

Can You Mulch Too Early?

Often mulch is used to tidy up the landscape, offsetting plants and beautifying beds. But if a layer of mulch is applied before the soils warm up in late winter or early spring, it can actually slow the warming of the soil. That means plants won’t be growing as early or as fast and germination will be slowed down in seeds. Additionally, spring rains and wet mulch can suffocate plant growth.

In the case where old mulch is covered with new, the thick layer will also retard young shoot growth in the spring. Also, avoid mulching seedlings. The mulch will retain too much moisture which can lead to damping off.

What Month Should You Mulch?

If I had to make a calendar with mulching times for various reasons it would be this:

• For erosion control mulch in February
• For heat retention mulch in September to October
• For soil cooling mulch in April to June
• For weed suppression mulch in February to March
• For nutrient addition and increased porosity mulch the season prior to planting the garden
• For water retention, mulch at planting except for seedlings
• For beautifying, mulch when soils have warmed and spring rains have slowed, approximately May to June

Frequently Asked Questions

Mulch doesn’t last forever unless you use an inorganic, durable mulch, like stones or rubber. Natural mulches break down. They blow away in the wind and disperse in other ways. Deciding what to do with old mulch in spring means evaluating its current state and assessing the needs of your beds.

Can You Reuse Mulch?

You should be able to reuse mulch for at least a couple of years in your garden beds. Very durable, non-organic mulches should last many years. For instance, with pea gravel, you might only need to refresh it every few years.

Mulches made of wood break down and disperse more quickly, requiring more frequent refreshing or replacement. As long as your mulch pieces are still large enough and are not harboring diseases, you can reuse it in the spring. If the color has faded and you prefer something more vibrant, you might want to replace it.

How to Reuse Mulch in Spring

If you are planning to reuse mulch in the spring, take the time to move it aside to prepare the bed. Rake up the old mulch and set it aside. Till the soil in the bed and add any compost or other amendments it needs. This is also a good opportunity to check for signs of disease or mold in the mulch that would prohibit you from reusing it. Once you have prepared the soil for plantings, put your plants in the bed and reapply the mulch.

Don’t remove mulch from your beds until spring. Keeping mulch in place throughout the winter benefits the soil and any perennials in the bed. Mulch helps hold soil in place that might otherwise scatter in the wind or during storms. Mulch also protects plant roots and crowns from cold temperatures and holds some moisture in the soil.

How to Refresh Old Mulch

You can extend the life of your mulch by refreshing it rather than replacing it each year. Simply mix new mulch into the old mulch or use it to fill in thin spots. As long as you match the color reasonably well, this strategy will allow you to keep using the same mulch for at least a few years.

When Not to Reuse Mulch

While you probably don’t need to add new mulch every year, eventually it will need to be replaced. Don’t bother reusing mulch that has deteriorated to the point that the pieces are very small and barely distinguishable from soil. That means it’s time to get new mulch.

Another situation in which you should avoid using mulch again is if the plants in the bed have struggled with disease. In that case, your mulch may contain fungus or bacteria, and should be disposed of.

What Do You Do with Old Mulch That Isn’t Reusable?

Deciding what to do with old mulch depends on the situation. If you are not reusing it because it broke down too much, you can simply work the remaining pieces into the soil and apply fresh mulch. If the mulch still has fairly large pieces, it’s best to mix it into a compost pile before incorporating it into the soil.

If there was an issue of disease, rake up all of the mulch and dispose of it. Do not try to compost it or put it in another area of the garden. Use yard waste bags and dispose of it according to local regulations. Another reason to dispose of old mulch is if it was colored with a non-organic dye. You don’t want to work that into the soil, so collect it in bags and dispose of it.

Natural mulch does not have an indefinite lifespan, but it is definitely reusable. Evaluate your mulch each year and decide if you can reuse or if you need a refresh or complete replacement.

Summary: Non organic mulch lasts longer, but you can reuse and refresh old organic mulch each year if it’s still reasonably fresh and not diseased.

Many gardeners know the value of mulch around plant roots. Mulches stabilize soil, enrich it, and can contribute to better biodiversity. There are many landscape mulch alternatives to standard bark mulch. Many of these are cleverly recycled items that prevent landfill waste and foster a sense of sustainability.

Mulches provide protection to exposed soil surfaces. There are both inorganic and organic mulches, with each performing different additional functions. One of the most common mulches is bark mulch, an organic material that will break down slowly and enrich soil. But it has the potential to harbor pests and disease. Fortunately, there are other alternatives to mulching with bark.

Why Mulch?

The benefits of mulching are many. Mulch covers exposed soil surfaces, preventing erosion and loss of topsoil. Conserving soil moisture near plant roots where it is needed, mulch prevents the soil from drying out and crusting, encouraging the movement of water and nutrients from the top down into the soil.

Mulch keeps soil cooler in summer, and warmer in winter, a further protection for plant roots. Some mulches can inhibit the establishment of weeds, keeping beds nearly weed-free.

Organic mulches will rot slowly, improving soil nutrient content, encouraging beneficial organisms, aerating soil, and enhancing soil’s ability to hold nutrients. Most mulches will deter soil splashing, preventing certain diseases of leaves that are harbored in the soil.

Mulch can help protect certain plant stems and trunks from mechanical equipment. In vegetables and fruits like squash, mulch gives ripening fruit a place to rest that’s not soggy and can prevent rotting spots in the fruit. And most of all, mulch helps beautify garden beds and the entire landscape.

Inorganic Alternative to Mulch Made from Bark

Organic mulches are not long-lived. They will break down in time, necessitating additional applications. A more permanent solution is through the use of inorganic mulches.

Such alternatives to mulch made from organic material are longer lasting. Additional benefits from inorganic mulch are the lack of weed seeds, and their ability to stay in place better. However, such mulches will not contribute to soil health and generally must be purchased. Inorganic alternatives to mulches that are organic might pebbles, gravel, rubber, plastic, or fabric. Any rocky material should be less than ½ inch (1.5 cm) for maximum moisture retention and weed prevention.

Alternatives to Plastic Mulch

Plastic mulches are most commonly used in the vegetable garden. Examples are red mulch around tomatoes to enhance yields, or black plastic to warm soil. While the many types of black plastic can have their place in plant growth and yield, plastic is not compostable and has a potential to remain in the landfill.

Instead of plastic mulches, there are a few other options. Paper mulch will break down in just a few months but can still suppress weeds and warm soil. This is a great way to use up old newspapers. Landscape fabric is another option that will break down in time. Cellulose mulches are becoming more readily available and help prevent weeds. Leaf litter, bark, and straw are also acceptable substitutes.

Organic Mulch Alternatives

Bark is a classic example of an organic mulch. You can get it in bulk or by the bag in many garden supply locations. It comes in many hues and will enhance the garden in many ways.

But often, materials in the garden will provide plenty of mulch benefits. Leaf litter, homemade compost, sawdust, wood chips, grass clippings, and pine needles are often readily available in the garden. Coconut coir is a modern choice, while nut shells as a mulch are a very old alternative. Straw is not a very attractive option, but it will break down quickly and enhance aeration.

The benefits of mulch are so well known that the question is no longer “Should I use mulch?” but rather “How much mulch should I use?” This is a valid inquiry, since using too much mulch can hurt trees and plants. But how much mulch is too much? Can too much mulch kill a tree? Read on for information on the disadvantages of over-mulching

How Much Mulch Is Too Much?

Almost every article about mulch extols its virtues and there are more than a few. A layer of organic mulch not only keeps down weeds and locks in moisture, it also insulates the ground from cold and hot weather. Finally, it disintegrates into the soil providing both nutrients and organic content.

But too much mulch around trees or too much mulch in flower beds can create serious problems. A thick layer of much can smother small plants and even trees. The amount that will be detrimental depends on the plant.

In warmer climates, too much mulch can prevent a plant from experiencing a hardening off process that prepares them for winter.

The Dangers of Mulch Volcanoes

One detrimental practice in applying mulch is descriptively termed “mulch volcanoes.” This is when the gardener piles mulch up against the trunks of trees and shrubs in a pyramid shape.

This is always bad since mulch holds in moisture. That means that the bark beneath the mulch is constantly moist. The practice results in decay to the tree or shrub and can also provide a point for diseases and pests to enter.

This can be easily solved, however. Never pile mulch up against the trunk or stem of a plant. Rather, keep it back by at least 3 inches (7.6 cm).

How Too Much Mulch Can Harm Plants

Excess mulch can smother plants in a number of ways in addition to the damage done by mulch volcanoes. For example, if plant roots grow into thick mulch when it is wet, they will die once it dries out.

Likewise, too thick a layer of mulch can deprive a plant of water if the gardener only waters lightly, since water may not penetrate beyond the mulch. And deep mulch can cause roots seeking oxygen to circle around in the mulch and girdle the tree or shrub.

Another disadvantage is mulch's tendency to attract rodents. Too much mulch makes an excellent hiding place for voles or other rodents that gnaw on the shrub bark. It provides a hiding place for voles, a rodent that gnaws on bark, and girdles trunks and the lower stems on shrubs.

Proper Mulch Depth

There are several depth rules for mulch that are useful to keep in mind. First, never apply more than 2 or 3 inches (5 or 7.6 cm) of organic mulch to any plant. Spread it to the tree line, no further out.

Second, when a plant has shallow roots, apply even less, perhaps 1 inch (2.5 cm) or so. This applies to shallow-rooted shrubs too, like boxwood. One exception is dry leaves, which decompose rapidly and can be piled up a bit thicker.

Wood mulch, often made of cedar, is used to retain moisture, hinder weeds, beautify a planting bed, insulate soil, and repel insects. But what about cedar chips and bees? Does cedar mulch affect or attract bees in any way? Since cedar is used to repel insects, does cedar mulch repel other pollinators? Keep reading to learn about cedar mulch and insects.

Cedar Mulch and Insects

Cedar has long been used in homes to repel moths, and the same theory goes for the use of cedar mulch in the garden. Cedar mulch is said to repel pesky bugs such as some types of ants, termites, fleas, and some varieties of fly. But does cedar mulch repel pollinators as well?

Does Cedar Affect Bees?

If the answer to “does cedar mulch repel pollinators?” is yes, then it is doubtful that anyone would use the product in the garden. Since cedar is actually one of the more common types of wood mulch, the idea that it adversely affects pollinators is unlikely.

Does cedar affect bees specifically though? No, bees are not negatively harmed by cedar mulch. In fact many beekeepers use mulch beneath their hives to repel insects and use the wood for the bottom boards of their hives due to its rot resistance with no adverse affect upon their colonies.

Does Cedar Attract Bees?

Despite the lack of adverse effect upon bees, it does not appear that cedar attracts bees per se. However, using cedar especially around hives can give the bees the benefit of fewer pests that can infiltrate the colony ergo, be of significant benefit to bees.

Cedar Chips and Bees

Cedar chips take longer than many other types of mulch to break down, which means they don’t need to be replaced as often. While the wood itself breaks down slowly, environmental factors will work steadily to evaporate the essential oils of the wood, the compounds that repel pests.

This means that the beneficial oils that repel pests only last so long. Once it is gone cedar mulch still retains all the benefits mentioned above except the ability to repel pests but cedar chips and bees will still continue to coexist with no ill effects.

To mulch or not to mulch, that is the question. Even Hamlet shouldn’t take too much time mulling this over. Experts agree that mulching newly planted trees is the very best thing you can do to enhance their chances of survival.

Care for Newly-Planted Trees

What is a landscape without landscape trees? Shade and ornamental trees made a backyard more beautiful and more functional. And installing young trees isn’t cheap, so it’s best for the pocketbook not to have to replant.

That’s why it’s important to provide the best possible care for the first few years after planting to give them the best chance to thrive. Some plants, including mature trees, thrive on benign neglect. But newly-planted trees are not among them.

Young, newly installed landscape trees require active and regular care during the period from planting until establishment. Count on 12 months of establishment period for every inch of trunk diameter. A young tree with a 3-inch (7.6 cm.) trunk will need 36 months of care. Excellent cultural care during this period helps minimize transplant stress.

Should You Mulch Newly-Planted Trees?

Most gardeners are familiar with mulch: material layered over the soil surface to keep down weeds, regulate soil temperature and hold in moisture. Organic mulch can also ameliorate soil conditions as it disintegrates, improving soil structure, replenishing nutrients, and increasing fertility. Mulching mimics a forest environment in the wild, where last year’s leaves cover the soil.

Mulch is material placed over the soil surface. What type of material? There are many options and most fall into two categories: organic and inorganic. Organic mulch materials are made of something that was once alive, and include compost, manure, dried leaves and shredded bark. Inorganic mulch – like plastic or stones – will not decompose into the soil so it offers fewer benefits to newly planted trees.

Mulching Trees in Fall

Experts agree that the best times to plant perennials are spring and fall, with fall planting holding a slight edge for deciduous woody plants. This is because the trees have more time to develop a root system before spring. Fall rains are also a factor.

To best assist your young trees through the winter, use organic mulch and apply a layer between 2 and 4 inches (5 and 10 cm.) deep. Don’t go deeper than this or you might attract rodents.

Coarse-­textured mulch like chopped bark is best since it aerates the soil. Mulch a generous area, at least 2 feet (61 cm.) in diameter and ideally larger. Organic mulches are preferred since they tend to aerate the soil. But don’t take the mulch right up to the tree. Keep it 6 inches (15 cm.) from the trunk and don’t cover the root flare.

Moisture Is Key

Lack of irrigation is one of the main causes of transplant shock, and even some established trees don’t take well to drought. So while mulch helps hold in moisture, you need to be certain that moisture is there to begin with. To figure out when more water is required, check to see if the tree’s root ball is dry.

If it has begun to dry out, add water. Use a soaker hose to apply water slowly, giving it time to sink in. Tree watering bags also work well to give the root zone of the tree a slow and thorough soaking in the original root ball. However, as roots grow into the surrounding soil, additional watering techniques will need to be used to wet the entire root zone.

Mulching has a lot of benefits in the garden. It keeps moisture in the soil, keeps weeds down, controls heat, minimizes erosion, and more. Gardeners have a lot of mulching options, and there are many reasons to choose organic and sustainable mulches.

Sustainability in Mulching

Gardeners are increasingly aware of how their practices impact the environment and local ecosystems. Sustainability means using methods, tools, and materials that have minimal negative impact or that actively promote the health of the ecosystem. 

For instance, more gardeners are planting native species to support local wildlife, attract pollinators, and avoid problematic invasive plants. 

Not everyone gives a lot of thought to mulch. They have a few options at the garden center and choose what looks good. But, organic mulching and more sustainable choices can make a big difference. 

Standard wood mulch, for instance, often contains toxic chemicals that leach into the soil. Wood mulch is usually recycled, which is good, but many of the original products were treated with chemicals, including creosote and chromated copper arsenate. 

Choosing Natural and Organic Mulches

The good news is that you can choose from many alternatives to standard mulch. These organic and natural mulches have benefits for the environment and the garden: 

• Pea gravel. Gravel and stone are great products for plants that need good drainage and that prefer dry soil, like those that work well in rock gardens and desert plants. Gravel is also one of the best mulches for controlling weeds. 
• Straw. An excellent organic mulch for a vegetable garden is straw. It’s a natural material that is lightweight and clean. It holds moisture in the soil and prevents weed growth around your vegetables. 
• Leaf litter. If you have a lot of trees in your yard, collect fall leaves and use them as mulch. This eliminates the need to collect and dispose of leaves. It’s a more natural solution that also protects your beds. 
• Cocoa bean shells. Also known as hulls, the shells of cocoa beans are a byproduct of processing. You can buy these shells to mulch in your garden. It looks a lot like standard mulch, but it breaks down better and adds nutrients to the soil. Note: If you have a dog, be aware that like chocolate, the shells can be toxic if consumed. 
• Living mulch. An idea that is catching on is to simply grow more plants to reduce the need for mulch. Fill in some empty spaces between plants in your beds with native groundcovers or cover crops that you can turn into the soil at the end of the growing season. 
• Newspaper. If you subscribe to newspapers, recycle the pages as mulch. It’s not the most attractive option, but it recycles a material you use already and controls weeds. Most newspapers use organic inks, so you don’t have to worry about toxic chemicals. 

Trees naturally mulch around themselves by dropping leaves or needles which protect roots, retain moisture, and incorporate organic matter into the soil. Many home gardeners mulch around trees and perennials, but it’s important to know when and how much to mulch. Should you add or remove mulch in spring? The following contains spring mulching tips and the answers to these and other questions. 

Should I Mulch Around Trees? 

If you have a naturalized landscape with established trees, there is no reason to mulch around them. Fall leaf or needle drop is natural mulch. 

If you have a more manicured landscape, it is a good idea to mulch around trees, but care must be taken to keep the mulch away from the trunk of the trees. So called “mulch volcanoes,” wherein mulch is piled around the trunk of the tree, can have long term detrimental effects as it can become waterlogged, compact, harbor rodents and introduce pathogens. 

When to Mulch

Mulch is used for aesthetic purposes, to retain moisture and nutrients, slow weeds, and to protect root systems. If you are mulching to protect plants from winter freezes, apply mulch in the fall. Otherwise, mulch should be applied in the spring. Of course timing is everything. 

Wait as long as possible to mulch in the spring. Allow the ground to warm and dry out somewhat before applying mulch. Mulch applied too early in the season inhibits soil warming and can also foster disease while compacting soil, lessening aeration. 

There is no reason to remove mulch in the spring, provided it is organic. Organic mulch breaks down and is then incorporated into the soil adding valuable nutrients. You should however loosen up the old mulch to allow for air flow and water penetration. If you have completely covered a plant with mulch as winter protection, do remove mulch covering the plant. 

When exactly to apply mulch depends on your location. Your local extension office can assist you with spring mulching tips for your area although mid to late spring is generally idea. Delay applying mulch until May or June if the weather has been particularly cool and wet.

How to Mulch

How to mulch depends upon the type of mulch used and the plant. If you are using bark to enhance the landscape, a scant inch or two (2.5-5 cm.) is sufficient. 

Otherwise a depth of 2-2.5 inches (5-6.3 cm.) of mulch is sufficient for weed control, moisture retention and root protection. Applying more than this amount can lead to water logged soil, compaction, diseases and rodent infestation. Especially at risk are plants with shallow root systems such as azaleas, rhododendrons, most conifers and especially yews and taxus varieties. 

Mulch is a staple in most gardens, and with good reason. Mulch made of straw, bark chips, pine needles, or other organic material retains soil moisture, promotes healthy drainage, protects roots against temperature fluctuations, staunches growth of weeds, and enriches the soil as it gradually decomposes. 

But, what about crushed rock as mulch? There are plenty of good reasons for using crushed rock instead of mulch, but there are also a few major drawbacks. Read on to learn more.

Benefits Of Crushed Rock Landscapes: Can I Use Crushed Rock Instead Of Mulch?

Yes, you can definitely use crushed rock as mulch. Here are a few benefits of a crushed rock landscape:

Appearance: Rock or crushed stone mulches are available in a range of sizes, shapes, and colors, including custom colors to complement your home or garden.

Longevity: Unlike organic mulch, crushed stone mulch will last just about forever, and it doesn’t need to be replenished every season. It won’t blow away in a strong wind, and it’s unlikely that water will ever carry it away. 

Price: Using crushed rock instead of mulch might cost more initially depending on your choice of rock, but because it’s so long-lasting, crush stone mulch soon pays for itself. 

Maintenance: Once it’s in place, crushed rock as mulch requires very little maintenance to keep it looking good. Stones don’t attract insects, and they aren’t prone to mold or mildew. 

Fire safety: Crush rock mulch applied around the perimeter of your house creates an effective fire barrier, while most organic mulches are flammable. 

Possible Problems With Crushed Stone Mulch

Consider the flip side of using crushed rock as mulch. You may decide that crushed stone mulch is best for walkways, rock gardens, or open areas without mulch.

Heat: Crushed rock mulch absorbs heat in a hurry, especially if you live in a warm climate. If soil temperature is too hot, plants can suffer leaf burn and heat stress. You’ll need to water plants more often, and some heat-sensitive plants may not survive.

Soil health: Unlike organic mulch, rocks add no nutrients to the soil. In fact, crushed stone mulch can compress the soil and destroy air pockets that keep roots aerated. 

Difficult to remove: If you ever get tired of crushed rock as mulch, you’ll have a big job on your hands. Removing organic mulch generally requires only a rake and a wheelbarrow. 

Weeds: Weeds eventually sprout between rocks, and they can be difficult to remove. However, using landscape cloth can mitigate this problem. 

Upkeep: Although rocks are clean and don’t need much upkeep, you may have a mess on your hand if the rocky area is under trees or shrubs. 

Laying mulch down in the garden accomplishes multiple tasks; it retards weeds, retains moisture and beautifies the landscape to name a few. A more recent option is rubber mulch for gardens. As with anything new, questions began to arise about rubber mulch and plants, like “is rubber mulch safe?” This is the foremost concern. The effects of rubber mulch in soil are somewhat contested and, at the very least, the information does not lead one to a definitive answer that rubber mulch is bad, nor that it is beneficial. 

What is Rubber Mulch for Gardens? 

Any car owner knows that at one time or other the vehicle will need new tires. Add up new tires for the world’s population in a year and you end up with over one billion end-of-life tires. What to do with all those used tires has been an ongoing debate for decades. 

Today more attempts are being made to reuse the rubber from the tires, which on the surface seems like a great idea. Rubber mulch is one such byproduct made from recycling rubber tires. 

Rubber mulch for gardens and playgrounds is derived from either waste tire buffings or nuggets of synthetic rubber. Nuggets come from tires ground up after their steel bands have been removed. Buffings come from worn down tread after it is removed from the tire before retreading. 

The resulting rubber mulch is then often dyed in a rainbow of hues and sold as rubber mulch for gardens or for playgrounds or sports facilities. 

Is Rubber Mulch Bad? 

The question of whether rubber mulch is bad is a difficult one to answer and is most certainly a polarizing one. On the one hand, isn’t the idea of repurposing tires a good one? We are often encouraged to reuse, repurpose and recycle to save our planet. 

On the surface, the idea of grinding tires up to repurpose as mulch sounds wonderful. Rubber mulch is touted to have several benefits over wood mulch as well. Rubber mulch is said to be permanent, slows weeds and fungal disease, doesn’t run off with irrigation or heavy rains, and is an environmentally friendly option. 

From the benefits listed, rubber mulch doesn’t seem all that bad, or is it? 

Is Rubber Mulch Safe? 

Rather than asking if rubber mulch is bad, a better query is whether it is safe. There are differing opinions regarding the safety of rubber mulch and plant, for that matter, regarding the safety of rubber mulch and people. 

In order to attempt to answer the question you need to break down some of the pros of rubber mulch in gardens. First of all, rubber mulch is not permanent. It may take a bit more time than wood mulch to break down, but it is not immune to the ravages of weather, bacteria, fungi and insects; and yes, rubber mulch does provide habitat for insects. 

As rubber mulch breaks down it leaches other chemicals, primarily heavy metals such as aluminum, cadmium, chromium, molybdenum, selenium and zinc. It also leaches 2-Mercaptobenzothiazole (MBT) and polyaromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) which are shown have detrimental effects on human health as well as the environment. 

That said, the fact is that the use of rubber mulch is unregulated by the EPA, meaning that its use is regulated by local and state authorities. This also means that the product has not been intensively studied, so there is no definitive consensus on whether rubber mulch is safe for plants or people for that matter. 

Final Words on Rubber Mulch in Soil

A few states have published studies done on the use of rubber in artificial turf fields and the only conclusion so far is that further study is needed. At this writing, no one has done research on the relationship between the use of rubber mulch and plants such as fruits and vegetables to see if there is any affect on crops.

What has been studied is zinc in soil. Zinc is naturally occurring in soil but as with almost anything, too much of a good thing can become bad. Some regions have sufficient or even surfeit levels of zinc in the soil, which means that if rubber mulch is leaching additional zinc into the soil, plants will be affected. 

Also, heavy metals are more available for plant uptake in acidic soils, which means they are more likely to be found in fruits and vegetables grown in an area covered in rubber mulch. These leached heavy metals along with other chemicals can also find their way into aquatic ecosystems, killing or damaging fish and aquatic plants. 

In the end, the decision to use rubber mulch in the garden is up to the consumer. Hopefully down the road soon, scientists will have a better grasp on what or if rubber mulch presents safety concerns, but in the meantime it is up to us to educate ourselves and make as much of an informed decision as possible. 

Are you looking for something different to use as mulch in your flowerbeds? Perhaps, a bed of dark blooms will benefit from a design of lighter-colored mulch. Maybe you think green foliage will look more defined with pale ground covering underneath. There are several light-colored mulches from which to choose, one being crushed oyster shells.

Using Oyster Shells in the Garden

Mulching with oyster shells adds calcium to the soil and makes it more alkaline. Oyster shells in the garden eventually break down, but if you want to use them as a groundcover under plants that need acidic soil, apply them on plastic. Plastic works as an extra layer of protection to stop weeds from sprouting and to conserve moisture.

Mulching with oyster shells also improves soil health while adding a professional, well-manicured appearance. The addition of oyster shell mulch improves chemical balance in the soil, adds many nutrients, and improves water penetration. Calcium in the soil promotes a bigger root system, often leading to larger top growth on foliage and flowers.

Plants That Benefit from Oyster Shell Mulch

The cool season garden and many of the plants we grow tend to get bigger and more vigorous with a mulch derived from oyster shells that are pounded into a powder or allowed to decompose above their growing spot.

Leaf lettuce, spinach, kale, and cabbage enjoy this amendment in their growing space and penetrating their soil. Broccoli and the cool season lavender herb enjoy the nutrition as well. Studies have shown shell as a fertilizer increases crop productivity.

The sharp edges of oyster shells act as pest control with moles and voles. Locate them at the edges of tunnels to deter them. Slugs often refuse to crawl across those that are crushed and surrounding your plants.

Where to Find Crushed Oyster Shells

Obtaining oyster shells to use as mulch can be done in a variety of ways and at various prices. Work a deal with a seafood shop to pick up their shells at a nominal price, then rinse them and crush yourself. If you eat seafood regularly, try bringing the shells home. If you live near a beach, collect them and add to others you might get in different ways. Consider using other shells from the beach to increase the decorative value.

You can sometimes purchase them mulch-ready at a landscaping supply company. If you get them in other ways, always rinse well to remove the salt. Some suggest boiling the shells first to make sure to remove all traces of salt that can damage plants.

Consider the use of oyster shells for plants in your garden. You’ll likely see healthier and more vigorous plants that grow bigger than you’re accustomed to having.

Spring is upon us and it’s time to replace last year’s mulch, or is it? Should you replace mulch? Refreshing garden mulch each year depends on a number of factors such as weather conditions and the type of mulch used. Some mulch will last up to five years while other types will have broken down in a year. Read on to learn when to add new mulch and how to change mulch.

Should You Replace Mulch?

Mulch is laid down to retain moisture, repel weeds, and regulate soil temps. As time goes by, organic mulch naturally decays and becomes part of the soil. Some mulch breaks down more rapidly than others.

Materials such as shredded leaves and compost break down quite rapidly while larger bark mulches take longer. Weather will also cause mulch to decompose more or less rapidly. So, the question of refreshing garden mulch depends on what type of mulch you are using as well as how weather conditions have been.

All natural mulch breaks down eventually. If you are unsure of when to add new mulch, grab a good handful. If the particles have become small and more like the soil, it’s time to replenish.

When to Add New Mulch

If the mulch is still relatively intact, you can choose to retain it. If you wish to amend the bed with compost and/or introduce new plants, simply rake the mulch to the side or onto a tarp. When you have completed your task, replace the mulch around the plants.

Wood mulch, particularly shredded wood mulch, tends to mat which can keep water and sunlight from penetrating. Fluff the mulch with a rake or cultivator to aerate it and, if need be, add additional mulch. If the matted mulch shows signs of fungus or mold, however, treat with a fungicide or remove it completely.

Mulch may not only degrade but can get moved around from foot traffic or heavy rains and wind. The goal is to have 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) of mulch in place. Lightweight, very broken-down mulch (such as shredded leaves) may need to be replaced twice a year while heavier bark mulch may last years.

How to Change Mulch

If you’ve decided last year’s mulch needs to be replaced, the question is how and what to do with the old mulch. Some people remove last year’s mulch and add it to the compost pile. Others figure that the broken-down mulch will add to the tilth of the soil and either leave it as is or dig it in further and then apply a new layer of mulch.

More specifically, think about refreshing garden mulch if there is less than 2 inches (5 cm.) in your flowerbeds and less than 3 inches (8 cm.) around shrubs and trees. If you’re down an inch (2.5 cm.) or so, generally you can top off the old layer with enough new mulch to make up the difference.

One downside to renting is that you may not have full control over your outdoor space. For a gardener this can be frustrating. Most landlords and owners will be thrilled, however, if you want to help beautify and maintain some of the landscaping. For renter mulching ideas, you’ll want some easy, low cost options.

Mulch Landscaping Ideas for Renters

Mulching is useful for many reasons: it keeps moisture in the soil, warms the soil, keeps down weeds, and more. If you don’t own your property though, mulching can be a big chore and expense that provides little return on your investment. That doesn’t mean you can’t use and benefit from mulch. Here are some things to keep in mind when using mulch for rental properties:

• Use mulch in smaller spaces, like containers or raised beds. Only purchase mulch yourself for areas over which you have personal control.
• For larger beds in common areas, ask your landlord to buy mulch, even if you are willing to do most of the leg work.
• Point out to hesitant landlords that mulching will make the space more attractive and reduce the need for maintenance.
• Watch out for mulch types that may be toxic to animals or painful to walk on for people and pets sharing common areas.

Best Mulch Options for Renters

If you can convince your landlord to make a purchase of mulch for your common areas, be ready with the pros and cons of some of the different types of mulch:

• Wood chips - Wood chips are one of the most common types of mulch. It looks attractive and tidy but won’t keep weeds down as well as others. Cedar and cypress cost more but help deter insects. It needs replenishing every few years.
• Fabric barriers - A weed barrier is very good at preventing weed growth, which means less maintenance. It is unattractive, though, unless you cover it with soil or another type of mulch.
• Gravel - Gravel can be a very attractive type of mulch and it usually requires less ongoing maintenance than wood chip mulch. However, the initial effort to put it in is serious. It takes some major muscle. Also, you’ll struggle to get new plants in with gravel mulch.

It’s always fun, and sometimes beneficial, to learn about ways to improve your gardening experience. One of those that you may not be familiar with is using wool as mulch. If you’re intrigued by the thought of using sheep’s wool for mulch, read on to learn more.

Mulching with Wool

As with other mulch we use in the garden, sheep’s wool retains moisture and stops weeds from spouting. In the case of using sheep’s wool for mulch, it can also retain more heat during cold winters. This keeps roots warmer and can help keep crops alive past their normal growing point.

Online info says mulching with wool in the vegetable garden can “increase production and plant viability against pest damage.” Wool matts purchased commercially or woven together from available wool, last approximately two years.

How to Use Wool in the Garden

Wool matts for mulch may need to be cut before placement. Use a pair of heavy-duty shears to cut them into appropriately sized strips. When using wool matts for mulch, the plant should not be covered. Placement of the matts should allow for space around the plant where it may be watered or fed with liquid fertilizer. Liquids may also be poured directly onto the wool and allowed to seep through more slowly.

If using pelleted or granular fertilizer, apply this into the bed before placing wool matts for mulch. If top dressing with a layer of compost, this should also be applied prior to placement of the matts.

Since the matts are commonly staked to remain in place, it is difficult to remove them and could damage plants nearby. Therefore, it’s often recommended that you cut holes in the matts and plant through them when necessary.

Some gardeners have also used actual pelts as mulch, and raw wool clippings from them, but as those are not readily available, we have only covered using the wool matts here.

Have you ever considered using mint as mulch? If that seems odd, that's understandable. Mint mulch, also called mint hay compost, is an innovative product that is gaining in popularity in regions where it is available. Gardeners are using mint compost for the many benefits it offers. Let's take a look at what it is and how to make mint compost.

What is Mint Mulch?

Mint hay compost is a byproduct of the peppermint and spearmint oil industry. The most common method for commercially extracting the essential oils from mint is by steam distillation. This process starts with the fall harvest of mint plants.

Commercial mint crops are harvested in much the same way as grass and legume hay, hence the name mint hay. Mature plants are cut by machine and allowed to air dry in the fields for several days. After drying, mint hay is chopped and taken to a distillery.

At the distillery, the chopped mint hay is steam distilled to a temperature of 212 F. (100 C.) for ninety minutes. The steam vaporizes the essential oils. This steam mixture is sent to a condenser to cool and return to a liquid state. As it does, the essential oils separate from the water molecules (Oils float on water.). The next step is to send the liquid to a separator.

The steamed plant material which is leftover from the distillation process is called the mint hay compost. Like most compost, it's dark brownish black in color and rich in organic materials.

Benefits of Using Mint Compost

Landscapers, home gardeners, commercial vegetable producers and fruit and nut orchards have embraced using mint as mulch. Here are a few reasons why it has become popular:

• Mint hay compost is 100% natural. It adds organic material to growing beds and can be used for soil amendment. Mint compost has a pH of 6.8.
• As a byproduct, using mint compost promotes sustainable agriculture.
• Using mint as mulch improves water retention in soil and reduces the need for irrigation.
• It contains natural humus, which improves both sandy and clay soils.
• Mint compost is a good source of natural nutrients. It's high in nitrogen and contains phosphorus and potassium, the three main nutrients found in commercial fertilizer.
• It contains micronutrients that may be missing in animal manure compost.
• Mulching keeps soil temperatures warm and helps control weeds.
• Mint can act as a deterrent to mice, rats, and insects.
• The distillation process sanitizes mint compost, killing weed seeds and plant pathogens, including viruses and fungi.

Using mint compost is similar to other types of organic mulching products. Spread evenly to a depth of 3 to 4 inches (7.6 to 10 cm.) in weeded beds around plants and at the base of trees.

Berms are simple but helpful additions to the garden and landscape that can add interest, increase privacy, and help direct water to where it’s most needed. Is mulching berms necessary though? Keep reading to learn about berm mulch tips and ideas.

Is Mulching Berms a Good Idea?

What is a berm? A berm is a manmade mound of earth that serves some purpose in the landscape. Some berms are meant to create a sense of elevation in an otherwise flat garden or yard. Some are meant to retain or direct water, such as around a tree or away from a house. Some are meant just to create a rise in the landscape, subtly but effectively blocking out whatever is on the other side.

Do you really need to mulch berms? The simple answer is: yes. Berms are raised mounds of dirt, and raised mounds of dirt like nothing more than to be washed away by erosion. Berms are at their most effective (and their most attractive) with plants growing out of them. This makes them look good, and the roots of the plants help hold the soil intact against rain and wind.

Mulch is essential to fill in those spaces between the plants to keep the dirt from running away in little rivulets. It’s also excellent for retaining moisture when that is the purpose of your berm, such as if it’s built in a ring around a tree. Just remember stick to the ring and never to mulch up to the edge of the tree – those mulch volcanoes you see sometimes are bad news and should be avoided.

What is the Best Mulch for Berms?

The best mulch for berms is the kind that won’t wash or blow away easily. Shredded wood or bark are good bets, since their large pieces are relatively heavy and interlock well. They also make for a nice, natural look that blends in well with the landscape and doesn’t draw too much attention.

Low growing plants make perfect natural groundcover which can prevent weeds, conserve moisture, hold soil, and have many more uses. When installing such plants, you may wonder, should you mulch groundcovers? The answer depends on the site, speed with which the plants will grow, your growing zone, and soil stability. Mulch for groundcover plants can help protect little starts in some situations but it isn't necessary in other cases.

Should You Mulch Groundcovers?

Does groundcover need mulch? This oft asked question has a couple of answers. The benefits of organic mulch are numerous and the only drawback would be when planting seed, which may have difficulty pushing up through the mulch. Although, mulching around groundcover isn't strictly necessary either. Most plants will establish just fine without any mulch at all but using it could ease your maintenance routine.

The whole idea behind groundcover is to give a natural carpet of low maintenance plants. Selecting the right plants, spacing them correctly, and providing good basic care at the beginning will result in good coverage over time.

The soil should be acceptable to the plants and the site should have adequate light. Using mulch for groundcover plants may reduce the amount of weeding you have to do and lower the amount you have to water. For many gardeners, these are enough reasons to spread some sort of mulch around establishing groundcover.

Mulch doesn't have to be fancy either. You can contact a tree removal service and often they will allow you to have some of their chipped material for free.

Mulching Around Groundcover in Tricky Sites

Hills and areas with limited access should be mulched. The mulch will help stabilize soil as young plants get their foothold. Without mulch, there is a risk of erosion, which can expose new plants and ruin their health. In areas without a sprinkler system, it saves time and water by reducing the amount you have to hand water.

Another benefit of an organic mulch, such as bark, is that it will gradually rot into the soil, releasing important vitamins and minerals upon which young plants can feed. There are also inorganic mulches available, many of which are made of recycled items.

Tips for Mulch Around Groundcovers

Should you decide it is to your benefit to mulch, select between organic and non-organic. A non-organic might be plastic or recycled tire bits. These perform the same functions as an organic mulch but do not release nutrients and can be difficult for plants with runners or stolons to grow through. Additionally, they may release some toxins as they break down over time.

Good organic mulch has none of these drawbacks. Apply 2 inches (5 cm.) around the plant, leaving some space free of mulch at the stem areas. This will prevent buildup of moisture or hidden fungi that could harm the groundcover.

If you’re a gardener who has always used a standard type of organic mulch, you may be surprised to learn about the popularity of plastic mulch. It has been used to increase crop yields for decades. Plastic mulch is now available in an array of colors, with different mulch colors said to assist in different garden tasks. If you want to learn more about plastic colored mulches and their uses, read on.

About Colored Plastic Mulch

Plastic mulch, virtually unknown just a little while ago, is coming into its own. These days, many farms and backyard gardens use “plasticulture” to modify microclimates and improve crop quality. In fact, the benefits of using plastic mulch are numerous. It warms the soil, minimizes evaporation, limits leaching of nutrients from the soil, and results in more and better crops that are ready to harvest earlier.

Mulch, of course, is a material you layer over garden soil to reduce weeds, hold in water, and control soil temperature. The plastic mulch on the market aids crop growth by either reflecting, absorbing, or transmitting the sunshine. The colors of mulch determine its impact on a crop.

You may have seen the rolls of black plastic mulch available at garden stores. If you look around though, you’ll also find mulch in different colors in commerce, from yellow to green to red. Colored plastic mulch is not intended to be ornamental. Each of the different mulch colors is said to work well in a particular circumstance or with a particular crop. You pick your mulch colors to match your garden needs.

Colors of Mulch and Benefits

The research on the benefits of plastic colored mulches is far from complete, so these products are not sold with guarantees. However, preliminary research suggests that mulch in different colors can be used achieve different results.

Of all the colors of mulch, black is perhaps the most prevalent and the least expensive. It is said to suppress weeds better than any other plastic mulch thanks to its opacity. It also keeps soil warm during the growing season, raising the soil temperature by up to five degrees at a 2 inch (5 cm.) depth. That allows you to put out plants earlier and expect a quicker harvest.

On the other hand, red colored plastic mulch is said to work much better for some crops. For example, tomatoes in some studies yielded 20 percent more fruit on red mulch colors, and strawberries grown on red plastic mulch were sweeter and had a better fragrance.

How about blue mulch? Blue plastic colored mulches are better than black for big harvests if you are planting cantaloupes, summer squash, or cucumbers, according to reports. Silver mulch is great at keeping aphids and whiteflies away from crops and also reduces the population of cucumber beetles.

Both brown and green colors of mulch are available in infrared transmitting plastic (IRT). This type of mulch is said to warm up your soil better than plastic mulch in the beginning of the growing season. Green IRT mulch also seems to support an earlier ripening date for your cantaloupe crops, with higher yields of fruit.

Like love, mulch is a many-splendored thing. When layered over soil, mulch can do amazing things like hold in moisture, regulate soil temperature, and provide protection from wind. In windy areas, you need a mulch that won’t blow away. Read on for information about mulching in windy spots, with tips for how to pick a mulch for wind prone gardens.

Choosing Mulch for Windy Areas

Mulch comes in many different varieties. The basic division is between organic and inorganic mulches. Organic mulch, like compost, decomposes into and improves the soil. Inorganic mulch, like pebbles or rock, doesn’t ever decompose. Ideally, a mulch has many good qualities. It’s great to use a mulch that won’t compact easily, allows water and air to enter the soil, won’t catch on fire, and decomposes slowly. The dream mulch is attractive, prevents weeds from growing, and does not blow away. You must prioritize, however, since no mulches can do it all. When you are selecting a mulch for windy areas, wind protection tops the list of the qualities you seek in a mulch. What type of mulch won’t blow away?

Inorganic Mulching in Windy Spots

When you live in a windy area, it is likely you need a wind proof mulch, a mulch that doesn’t blow away. Mulching in windy spots can help protect the soil from being blown away, while providing some of the other benefits of mulch. Heavier mulches are preferred when mulching in windy spots. Mulch like straw or sawdust may disappear in minutes during a strong blow, leaving the ground beneath it unprotected. Pebbles or rock make good mulch for wind prone gardens since they are heavy. They also allow water and air to pass into and out of the soil. On the downside, they are inorganic and will not decompose into the soil.

Organic Wind Proof Mulch

Are there any types of organic wind proof mulch? Large wood chip mulch is a possibility, since chips are heavier than many types of mulch. Ground pine bark makes a good heavy mulch that is even harder for the wind to dislodge. You can support the wind proof mulch by planting wind barriers on the side of your garden where the prevailing wind blows. Fast growing conifers can really make a dent in the impact of the gusts. Alternatively, erect a wall or a fence as a wind block. Another option is to water down whatever mulch you use when windy weather is expected.

What if I told you that you could have a bountiful vegetable garden without the hassle of tilling, weeding, fertilizing, or daily watering? You may think this sounds pretty farfetched, but many gardeners are turning to a method known as deep mulch gardening to enjoy the harvest of the garden without all the headache (and backaches, knee pain, blisters, etc.).

What is deep mulch gardening? Read on to learn how to garden with deep mulch.

What is Deep Mulch Gardening?

Gardener and author Ruth Stout first laid out the concept of deep mulch gardening in her 1950's book “Gardening without the Work: for the Aging, the Busy, and the Indolent.” In short, Ruth’s method used layers of mulch to choke out weeds, retain soil moisture, and add organic matter and nutrients to the garden bed.

She described a method of growing garden plants right in deep layers of straw, hay, wood chips, compost, manure, leaves, or other organic materials rather than growing plants in the conventional finely tilled soil garden beds. These organic materials are layered on top of each other to create beds 8 to 24 inches (20-61 cm) deep.

One of the benefits of deep mulch gardening is that there is no tilling involved. Whether you have clay, sandy, rocky, chalky, or compacted soil, you can still create a deep mulch bed. Just pile the deep mulch where you want the garden, and the soil beneath will eventually benefit from it.

These deep mulch garden beds can be planted immediately, but experts recommend prepping the bed and then planting it the following year. This allows time for the materials you use to start breaking down, and microorganisms and worms to move in.

How to Use Deep Mulch in Your Garden

To create a deep mulch bed, first select the site; remember, you don’t have to worry about the soil conditions in the area. Mark out the site for your deep mulch garden, cut any weeds back, and water the site thoroughly.

Next, lay down a layer of cardboard or a few layers of newspaper. Water this down as well. Then simply pile on the organic materials of your choosing, watering it down as you go. Ruth Stout’s preferred mulch was straw and wood chips, but every deep mulch gardener needs to discover his or her own preference.

Deep mulch gardening, of course, is not completely hassle-free. It does require work to heap on all the mulch. If the beds are not deep enough, weeds may still pop up. This can easily be remedied by heaping on more mulch. It’s also important to not use straw, hay, or yard clippings that have been sprayed with any type of herbicide, as this can damage or kill your plants.

Snails and slugs may also be attracted to the moist heap of decomposing organic matter. It may also be hard to acquire enough organic material for large garden plots. Start out with a small deep mulch bed, then upsize if you like it.

Mulch is always a good option for garden beds, and organic mulch is often the best choice. There are a lot of organic mulches out there, however, and it can be hard to choose just the right one. Buckwheat hulls are a mulching material that don’t get quite as much attention as woodchips or bark, but they can be very effective and attractive. Keep reading to learn more about mulching with buckwheat hulls and where to find buckwheat hull mulch.

Buckwheat Hull Information

What are buckwheat hulls? Buckwheat is not a grain as some people believe, but rather a seed that can be harvested and eaten (odds are you’ve heard of buckwheat flour). When buckwheat is milled, the hard outside of the seed, or the hull, is separated and left behind. These hard, dark brown, lightweight casings are sold separately, sometimes as pillow or craft stuffing, but often as garden mulch. If you haven’t heard of buckwheat hulls before, they might not be readily available in your area. They tend to be sold only near facilities that mill buckwheat. (There’s one in Upstate New York that I know, from personal experience, sells as far afield as Rhode Island).

Should I Mulch with Buckwheat Hulls?

Mulching with buckwheat hulls is very effective. An inch thick (2.5 cm.) layer will work wonders to suppress weeds and keep soil moist, while allowing for good soil ventilation. The hulls are very small and lightweight, and they sometimes run the risk of blowing away in the wind. This isn’t much of a problem as long as the hulls are moistened every now and again when the garden is watered. The only real problem is the cost, as buckwheat hulls are considerably more expensive than some other mulch options. If you’re willing to pay a little bit more, however, buckwheat hull mulch makes for a very attractive, textured, even cover for both vegetable and flower beds.

Mulching with hay is a gardening secret that only a few know about. Even the most beginner gardeners among us know about mulch, but there are so many different options: hay and straw, woodchips, leaves, compost, and even rocks. Hay, though, just may give you the best yield you’ve ever gotten out of your garden.

Hay vs. Straw Mulch

The first thing you need to know is that there is a difference between hay and straw. We tend to use the words interchangeably, but there is a big difference:

• Hay is grass that has been cut while it is still green and full of nutrients, but before it has gone to seed. The highest quality hay will have few to no seeds, but some are inevitable. Farmers use hay to feed livestock.
• Straw is the stalk that is left over after a grain, like barley, has been harvested. It is dry and hollow and there is no nutrition left in it. Straw insulates well and is used as bedding for animals.

Can You Mulch with Hay in the Garden?

The answer is yes, and many master gardeners swear by it. It’s not an obvious choice because it is soft, dense, and spongy. It soaks up water and remains moist, which may seem a little unsanitary. Then there are the seeds, which are minimal in high quality hay, but are always present to some degree and are likely to include weed seeds. Using hay as mulch has some surprising benefits. It does indeed break down, but unless you have a very wet environment it shouldn’t get moldy. Instead, it will start to compost, creating a rich layer of nutrients for your plants. This is especially good for seeds and starter plants. They thrive in the warm, moist, and nutritious cover and soil provided by the hay.

How to Mulch with Hay

Hay will not give you a dry layer of cover that is pleasing to look at, but it is a great mulch for growing flowers and vegetables, and you’ll get a fantastic yield. To start a garden, with seeds or starters, first create a thick layer of hay, up to 8 inches (20 cm.), right over your garden soil. There is no need to till the soil or enrich it with topsoil. Push seeds and starters right into the hay and watch them grow. Mulching your garden with hay using this method may require a large quantity, but you won’t need to add the same amount year after year. Be sure to get hay of the best quality to limit the amount of seeds and get ready for a big yield of vegetables and flowers.

If you’re tired of the aphids spreading diseases to your crops, maybe you should be using reflective mulch. What is reflective mulch and is it effective? Keep reading to find out how reflective mulch works and other reflective mulch info.

What is Reflective Mulch?

Reflective mulches are reflective material such as aluminum or silver polyethylene mulch that reflects light up onto the leaves of plants. They are great for gardeners growing in partially shady conditions. They also come in colors such as silver, yellow, orange, and red, and have been reported to be effective for management of certain pests and, thus, possible virus transmission.

How Does Reflective Mulch Work?

As mentioned, reflective mulch increases the amount of light available to plants, but it also increases air temperature and photosynthesis, which means better growth.

Reflective mulches utilize the entire light spectrum, thereby boosting the available amount of light and heat to plants resulting in higher yields and bigger fruit and vegetables. It also helps retard weeds and conserve moisture just as other forms of mulch in gardens.

Additional Reflective Mulch Info

Reflective mulch not only increases temperatures and the amount of available light to plants, but it has been shown to reduce damage caused by certain insect pests such as aphids that transmit disease. It may also deter bird pests.

Is reflective mulch effective against pests? While some of the colored reflective films have been reported as more effective than white or black plastic mulches for management of pests, they are not effective on a wide array of pests. Each color of mulch seems to do a better job of repelling a certain pest while others have even increased pest levels.

Also, the effectiveness of reflective mulches seems to decline through the season as more of the visible surface is covered by the growing plant or as colors fade in the sun.

For the most part, however, reflective mulch benefits outweigh the potential detriments. Even cost doesn’t have to be a factor since you can make them cheaply out of aluminum foil and cardboard that has been painted white.

Using Reflective Mulch

To use reflective mulch, first remove any weeds from the bed. Then cover the bed with silver polyethylene mulch, which is available in rolls. Bury the edges with soil or hold them down with stakes, rocks, etc. Once the mulch is in place, cut 3 to 4 inch (8-10 cm.) diameter holes and plant a few seeds or a single transplant within the hole.

Or, if your budget is limited, cover cardboard with aluminum foil. Likewise, if you already have it, spray clear plastic mulch or landscape fabric with reflective silver paint.

When temperatures peak, be sure to remove the mulch to avoid overheating and burning the plants.

Weed control is one of the primary reasons for applying mulch, yet pesky weeds may persist, even through a carefully applied layer of bark chips or pine needles. This happens when weed seeds are buried in the soil or are distributed by birds or wind.

What should you do if you’ve got weeds coming up in mulch in spite of your best intentions? Keep reading for a few helpful tips.

Getting Rid of Weed Growth in Mulch

Manual Mulch Weed Control

Mulch acts as physical barrier against weeds, but it must block sunlight in order to be effective. If you notice weeds coming up in mulch, you may need to thicken the layer as blocking light generally requires at least 2 to 3 inches (5-7.6 cm). Replenish mulch as it decomposes or blows away.

How to Kill Weeds in Mulch with Herbicides

Other than hand-pulling, mulch is probably the single most important means of weed control. However, mulch works best when used as part of a multi-pronged approach along with pre-emergent herbicides. When used correctly before weeds sprout in early spring, pre-emergent herbicides are one effective way to prevent weeds coming up in mulch. They won’t, however, do anything for weeds that have already sprouted.

To stop weeds in mulch with pre-emergent herbicides, begin by raking mulch off to the side, then hoe or pull any existing weeds. Apply the product, following manufacturer's directions to the letter. Pay attention to the label, as some plants don’t tolerate certain types of pre-emergent herbicides. Replace the mulch carefully, being careful not to disturb the just-treated soil. At this point, you can provide extra protection by applying another layer of herbicide over the mulch. A liquid herbicide works best because it adheres to the mulch instead of falling through to the soil.

A Cautionary Note: Using a broad-spectrum herbicide, will kill any broad-leaved plant it touches, including your favorite perennials or shrubs. If you must use one, apply the chemical directly to the weeds, using a paintbrush. Be extremely careful not to touch nearby plants.

You can also protect plants by covering them with a cardboard box while you’re applying the herbicide. Don’t remove the box until the treated weeds have time to dry completely.

Note: Any recommendations about the use of chemicals are for informational purposes only. Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and more environmentally friendly.

Preventing Weeds with Landscape Fabric

If you haven’t applied mulch yet, landscape fabric or weed barrier cloth is a safe way to block weeds while still allowing water to pass through to the soil. Unfortunately, landscape fabric isn’t a perfect solution because some determined weeds will push through the fabric, and those weeds will be extremely difficult to pull. Sometimes, good old hand-pulling is still the most effective way of getting rid of weed growth in mulch. Note: Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and much more environmentally friendly.

The general purpose of mulch in gardens or landscape beds is to suppress weeds, retain soil moisture, protect plants in winter, add nutrients to the soil, or simply to make it look nice. Different mulches are better for certain uses. There are two main types of mulches: organic mulch and inorganic mulch. Organic mulches are made from something that was once alive. Inorganic mulches are made from non-living materials. In this article, I will address the question “what is inorganic mulch?” as well as discuss the benefits and disadvantages of inorganic mulch in the garden.

What is Inorganic Mulch?

The most common types of inorganic mulch are rocks or gravel, plastic sheeting, landscape fabric, and rubber mulch. Inorganic mulches do not decompose, or they slowly break down only after a long period of time. The benefit of inorganic mulch is that they may initially cost more, but they are more cost efficient because they do not need to be reapplied or topped off as frequently as organic mulches. The disadvantages of inorganic mulches that do not decompose is that they do not add any nutrients to the soil, and, in fact, some can prevent nutrients from reaching the soil altogether. Using inorganic mulches in gardens can definitely add aesthetic value and they work well to suppress weeds. However, they do not help much in retaining soil moisture, protecting plants through winter, or adding nutrients to the soil from decomposition as organic mulches do.

Using Inorganic Mulch in Gardens

Below I've listed the main types of inorganic mulches, as well as their advantages and disadvantages.

Rock or Gravel

Decorative rock mulches can make flower or landscape beds look very clean and appealing. When applied thick enough or used with plastic or fabric, they successfully suppress weeds. While they can cost a lot at first, they rarely ever need to be reapplied or topped off. However, rocks do not add any nutrients to the soil or help retain moisture. In fact, rocks can absorb and reflect heat from the sun, causing the area to become too hot and dry for many plants. Rock mulch is best used for areas with no plants or drought resistant plants. It is also very heavy to apply and hard to work with and plant in once it has been laid.

Plastic Sheeting

In my personal opinion, plastic sheeting is the bane of the garden's existence and should never be used. Everyone has their own opinions and preferences, though. Plastic sheeting does work effectively at suppressing weeds and is oftentimes covered with organic or inorganic mulches to make it look nicer. It also lasts for a long time, saving you money by not needing to be replaced often. Why I truly despise the use of plastic sheeting in gardens is because it does not allow water, air, or nutrients to get down to the soil. It is because of this, it is not recommended for use around plants, especially trees and shrubs with large root spreads. Additionally, it does not allow the soil to breathe, and it kills many beneficial insects, such as worms and valuable microorganisms that live beneath the soil. Ultimately, it kills the soil itself.

Landscape Fabric

Good quality landscape fabric effectively suppresses weeds while also allowing air, water, and nutrients to penetrate the soil. It is usually covered with organic or inorganic mulches to make it look more appealing. So, what’s the downside? Cheap landscape fabric can rip easily or breakdown quickly; therefore, it may cost you extra money in replacement or by combining other weed control methods.

Rubber Mulch

Rubber mulch is usually made from ground, recycled tires. Using recycled materials is always a plus. Rubber mulch can effectively suppress weeds and does help retain soil moisture, in some cases. It is also available in different colors for an interesting look. Rubber mulch is thought to be good for playgrounds because it is soft and rubbery. All that aside, the toxicity of rubber mulches is still being studied. Also, in a study by OSU, rubber mulch was found to be the most flammable of all types of mulch. It does not break down and can remain in the soil for a very long time.

Think of mulch as a blanket you tuck over your plants’ toes, but not just to keep them warm. A good mulch regulates soil temperature but also accomplishes much more magic. One of the best things you can do for your plants is to use tea tree mulch in gardens. What is tea tree mulch? Read on to learn all about tea tree mulch uses.

What is Tea Tree Mulch?

Mulch is any product that you spread over the soil in your garden. The best kinds of mulch accomplish many good deeds in your backyard. What can mulch do? It regulates the temperature of the soil, keeping your plant roots cool in summer and warm in winter. It “locks” moisture into the soil, prevents weeds from sprouting up, and enriches the soil as it decomposes. Tea tree mulch is an excellent product. It is made by grinding up the wood and bark of Melaleuca tea trees. Tea tree mulch in gardens accomplishes almost everything that mulch can accomplish. Tree pieces are ground up into a fibrous, rich mulch that you can use on any plant.

Using Tea Tree Mulch in Gardens

One tea tree mulch use is moisture control. Since tea tree mulch prevents sun and wind from drying out your soil, your plants are less stressed, even if they aren’t getting maximum irrigation. That’s because tea tree mulch in gardens dramatically slows evaporation. Another important item on the list of tea tree mulch uses is preventing weeds from crowding in. When you layer tea tree mulch in gardens just on top of the soil, it creates a physical barrier to weed growth. It both prevents weed seeds from reaching the soil and also prevents weeds already in the soil from getting the sun they need to grow. There are yet more tea tree mulch benefits in the garden. One is temperature control. The use of tea tree mulch in gardens keeps the soil surface cool in hot weather. It also warms up the soil in winter. Tea tree mulch is known to repel termites, but it’s friendly to earthworms that are good for your soil. It has a pleasant, astringent smell that makes your garden fresh and fragrant. It disintegrates more slowly than some mulches, generally lasting a full year on the soil. Last but far from least, when it comes to tea tree mulch benefits, is its role in adding organic matter to the soil. As the mulch deteriorates, it mixes with the soil and improves its structure.

Mulches are used in landscaping for a variety of reasons-- to control erosion, suppress weeds, retain moisture, insulate plants and roots, add nutrients to soil and/or for aesthetic value. Different mulches work better for different purposes. The kind of mulch you choose can have positive or negative effects on the plants. This article will address the question, "what is river pebble mulch," as well as ideas for landscaping with rocks and pebbles.

Landscaping with Rocks and Pebbles

When we hear the word “mulch,” we oftentimes think of wood chips, straw, or composts. However, landscape rocks are also generally described as mulch. Just like organic mulching materials, rock and pebble mulches have their pros and cons in the landscape. While excellent at controlling erosion, rock mulches do not help retain moisture in the soil like organic mulches. In fact, rock mulches tend to heat up quite a bit in the sun, causing the soil beneath them to be hot and dry. They also reflect sunlight up at plants, causing excessive transpiration and drying out. It is because of this heat, dryness, and dense coverage, rock mulches do work well to suppress weeds. Over time, organic mulches break down and decay in the landscape bed. As they do this, they add valuable nutrients to the soil that benefit the plants. Unfortunately, this breakdown means organic mulches must be reapplied and topped up every year or two. Rock mulches do not break down and don’t need constant reapplication. They also do not add any nutrients to the soil. While the initial cost to fill landscape beds with rock mulch can be very costly, the rock lasts much longer, saving you money in the long run. Another benefit to rock mulch vs. organic mulch is that beds mulched with rock do not provide hiding spots and adequate breeding grounds for many pests and diseases like organic mulches do. Another drawback to rock mulch, though, is that it is hard to plant new plants in and is pretty much permanent once it has been laid.

River Rock Mulch Landscape Ideas

River pebble mulch is harvested from riverbeds. It is one of the most common varieties of rock mulches and can be found by various names like river rock or Mississippi stone. Most garden centers or landscape supply stores will have river rock available in different sizes, from small pebbles to large chunks. Unlike granites or lava rock, river pebble mulch is comprised of smooth stones in natural tones of tan, gray, etc. They may not have the bold color or texture of some other rock mulches, but they are excellent for natural looking beds. Using river rock mulch is probably not a good idea for your annual beds or vegetable garden, as it is very hard to plant in several inches (8 cm.) of stone. It is fine to use in permanently planted beds, like rings around large trees or other areas where you plan to just plant once and be done with it. Since they are not flammable like some organic mulches, rock mulches are excellent for use around fire pits or grills. Landscaping around pools or ponds with river rock mulch can also keep the area tidy and dry. Ideally, due to its lack of moisture retention, rock mulches are best when used with drought-tolerant or rock garden plants.

If someone suggested you use cypress garden mulch, you might not know what they mean. What is cypress mulch? Many gardeners haven’t read up on cypress mulch information and, therefore, don’t know the benefits of this organic product - or the risks of using it. Read on for additional cypress mulch information, including the downside of using cypress mulch in gardens.

What is Cypress Mulch?

Mulch is any product you use on top of the soil to protect the roots of your plants. It can be chopped dead leaves, dried grass clippings or organic compost. Some people use shredded newspapers, gravel or plastic sheeting. The best mulches are organic and accomplish many jobs in the garden. They regulate the temperature of the soil, keeping it warmer in cold weather and cooler in heat. They lock moisture in the soil, keep weeds down and, ultimately, decompose into the soil and improve it. Cypress mulch is a term that refers to a mulch made from shredded cypress trees. Cypress garden mulch is an organic mulch made from pond cypress trees (Taxodium distichum var. nutans) and bald cypress trees (Taxodium distichum). The trees are ground into chips or shredded.

Using Cypress Garden Mulch

Cypress garden mulch is generally less expensive than many other organic mulches, and adds nutrients to the soil as it decomposes. It is also an effective mulch in preventing weed growth. However, putting cypress mulch in gardens has a very real dark side. Cypress forests are critical to the ecosystems of southern states such as Florida and Louisiana. They are key elements in wetlands and provide protections from storms. Unfortunately, logging has taken its toll on the cypress population. Virtually all old-growth cypress groves have been clear cut, and what is left is under attack by the cypress mulch industry. The wetlands in Florida and Louisiana are being cleared of cypress trees much faster than the rate cypress can naturally regrow. The use of this product could actually decrease the country’s cypress forests. The cypress mulch industry, in its eagerness to market its product, has suggested that you cannot do better than using cypress mulch in gardens. Many of the claims of its superiority turn out to be myths. For example, contrary to reports you might see in commerce, cypress mulch is no better than other wood chips at keeping down weeds and insects. Pine chips are just as good and do not endanger an ecosystem. In the long run, leaves, and straw from your yard or compost are usually better mulch choices for your plants.

Properly placed organic mulch can benefit soil and plants in many ways. Mulch insulates the soil and plants in winter, but also keeps soil cool and moist in summer. Mulch can control weeds and erosion. It also helps to retain soil moisture and prevent splash back of soil that can contain soil-borne fungi and diseases. With so many choices of organic mulches on the market, it can be confusing. This article will discuss the benefits of pine bark mulch.

What is Pine Bark?

Pine bark mulch, as the name suggests, is made from the shredded bark of pine trees. In some cases, though, the bark of other evergreens, like fir and spruce, may be added into pine bark mulch. Like other wood mulches, pine bark mulch is available for purchase in different forms and textures, from finely shredded or doubled processed to larger chunks called pine nuggets. Which consistency or texture you choose depends on your own preference and the garden's needs. Pine nuggets take longer to break down; therefore, last longer in the garden than finely shredded mulches.

Benefits of Pine Bark Mulch

Pine bark mulch in gardens tends to last longer than most organic mulches, whether finely shredded or in nugget form. The natural red-dark brown color of pine bark mulch also lasts longer than other wood mulches, which tend to fade to gray after a year. However, pine bark mulch is very lightweight. While this can make it easy to spread, it makes it inappropriate for slopes, as the bark can be easily moved by wind and rain. Pine bark nuggets are naturally buoyant and will float in circumstances with too much water. Any organic mulch benefits soil and plants by retaining moisture, protecting plants from extreme cold or heat, and preventing the spread of soil-borne diseases. This is true of pine bark mulch as well. Pine bark mulch is especially beneficial to acid-loving garden plants. It also adds aluminum to the soil, promoting green, leafy growth.

Mulching is an important part of gardening that sometimes gets overlooked. Mulch helps keep roots cool and moist in the summer and warm and insulated in the winter. It also suppresses weeds and gives your garden bed an attractive, textured look. Organic mulches, like wood chips and pine needles, are always a good choice, but crushed stone is swiftly gaining in popularity. Keep reading to learn more about using white marble chips for landscaping.

What is White Marble Mulch?

What is white marble mulch? Put simply, it’s white marble that has been crushed to the consistency of gravel and spread in a layer around plants just like other mulch. Using marble chips as mulch has a few strong advantages over using organic mulch. For one thing, marble chips are heavy and won’t blow away like many other mulches, making them ideal for areas that are prone to high winds. For another, marble doesn’t biodegrade, meaning it doesn’t have to be replaced from year to year the way organic mulch does. There are, however, some drawbacks to using white marble mulch. While it does protect roots, it tends to heat them up more than organic mulch and should only be used with plants that don’t mind some heat. White marble chips are also very high in pH and will leach into the soil over time, making it more alkaline. Don’t use marble chips as mulch around plants that prefer acidic soil. White marble chip mulch can be laid directly on the soil, but it’s much easier to manage if a sheet of gardening fabric is put down first.

What is lucerne mulch, and what’s the scoop on lucerne mulch benefits? If you live in North America and you’re not familiar with lucerne hay, you may know the plant as alfalfa. However, if you hale from New Zealand, Australia, Africa, Germany, France, or the United Kingdom, you likely know this beneficial plant as lucerne. Read on to learn more about using lucerne hay as mulch.

Mulching with Lucerne Hay

Lucerne hay (Medicago sativa), a clover-like plant belonging to the pea family, is grown as livestock feed in countries around the world. Since the hay is so rich in many essential elements, lucerne hay makes terrific mulch. Here are some lucerne mulch benefits you can expect when using lucerne mulch in your garden:

• Contains high levels of protein
• Provides many important minerals, including potassium, calcium, iron, folic acid, and others
• Increases soil nitrogen
• Suppresses weeds
• Decomposes quickly, making it an excellent choice for poor soil
• Conserves moisture
• Keeps soil cool in summer and warm in winter
• Reduces fertilizer requirement, thus reducing expenses
• Stimulates healthy root growth
• Contains natural hormones that help prevent root disease
• Feeds worms that help keep soil healthy

Using Lucerne Mulch

Although lucerne hay makes fantastic mulch, it is considered premium mulch and may be more expensive than other types of mulch. However, you may find it for a good price at a farm supply store. If you use mulch around edible plants, keep in mind that unless you buy organically grown hay, lucerne may contain pesticides. Lucerne mulch breaks down quickly, so it should be replenished regularly. A layer measuring 1 to 3 inches (2.5-8 cm.) is recommended. Although lucerne hay is usually seedless, it may contain seeds, including pesky weed seeds, which can get a foothold in your garden. Don’t allow lucerne mulch to pile up against the base of plants, including trees and shrubs. The mulch can retain moisture that promotes rot and may attract rodents to the garden. Apply a thinner layer of mulch if slugs are a problem. Tip: If possible, apply lucerne mulch immediately after rain. The mulch will trap the moisture and keep it in the soil much longer.

There are many ways to enhance the garden with wood chip mulch. It provides natural texture that sets off plants and reduces weeds along with a host of other benefits. What is wood chip mulch? Wood chip garden mulch may be simply the by-product of an arborist's labor, purchased in bags at nurseries or bought in bulk at garden centers. No matter how you acquire the stuff, it is an invaluable addition to the ornamental or produce garden.

What is Wood Chip Mulch?

Expert gardeners extol the virtues of mulching. There are many kinds of mulch, from organic to inorganic. Each has its special advantages and there is not one recommended over another in some cases. Using wood chips, however, has the added advantage of increasing nutrients in soil over time. This is because wood chip garden mulch is organic and will slowly break down, releasing nutrients to the soil. Mulch is simply any substance that can protect soil and plant roots as a groundcover. Mulching is also used in paths and between pavers to reduce weeds and provide a clean appearance. Mulching has many benefits, among them:

• leveling soil temperature
• reducing erosion
• enhancing soil fertility
• improving soil structure
• conserving moisture
• reducing pests and disease

With all these advantages, why wouldn't you use mulch? Using wood chips brings to the table all these benefits, but there are some wood chip mulch pros and cons. Many of these are fallacies, but a few need to be cleared up.

Wood Chip Pros and Cons

The benefits of using wood mulch are numerous and listed above. They also include the ease of application, aesthetic pleasure and cost effectiveness. On the cons list, there have been some discussion about the possibility of altered soil pH, allelopathic potentials, disease transfer, increased pest activity and, of course, fire hazard. Of these concerns, each has been found to be inconclusive in field trials. In fact, soil pH is generally stabilized, allelopathic tendencies in certain barks do not affect established plants, and disease and pests are often minimized. As to the fire issue, inorganic rubber mulch is far more flammable and large sized wood mulch is the least flammable. There are many types of wood chips that come from different trees, all with their own good points and possibly not so good aspects. Cedar mulch has the added benefit of repelling some insect pests, but black walnut mulch has strong allelopathic chemicals that can limit germination and seedling growth. In general, it is best to use wood chips around established plants only and avoid the vegetable bed except to create paths. Keep chips away from stems and trunks and the siding on the house. Use 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm.) of wood mulch over a nicely broken-down organic layer such as leaf litter or compost. There are also several wood chip mulch colors from which to choose if you purchase the product. Deeply red, orange, ocher, coffee black, rich mahogany brown and more can offset your landscape. Using colored mulch, like red wood chips, poses no threat to plants but will, overtime, fade in color as they break down. Don't be a snob and turn your nose up at the mixed natural hues of free, yes free, arborist chips though. In most municipalities, you can phone your park department and they will drop them to your site.

Although the landscape company I work for carries many different types of rock and mulches to fill landscape beds, I always suggest using natural mulches. While rock needs to be topped off and replaced less frequently, it does not benefit the soil or plants. In fact, rock tends to heat up and dry out the soil. Dyed mulches can be very aesthetically pleasing and make landscape plants and beds stand out, but not all dyed mulches are safe or healthy for plants. Continue reading to learn more about colored mulch vs. regular mulch.

Is Colored Mulch Toxic?

I sometimes encounter customers who ask, “Is colored mulch toxic?” Most colored mulches are dyed with harmless dyes, like iron oxide-based dyes for red or carbon-based dyes for black and dark brown. Some cheap dyes, however, can be dyed with harmful or toxic chemicals. Generally, if the price of dyed mulch seems too good to be true, it probably is not good at all, and you should spend the extra money on better quality and safer mulch. This is pretty rare, though, and usually, it is not the dye itself that is of concern with the safety of mulches, but rather the wood. While most natural mulches, like double or triple shredded mulch, cedar mulch, or pine bark, are made directly from trees, many colored mulches are made from recycled wood-- like old pallets, decks, crates, etc. These recycled bits of treated wood can contain chromates copper arsenate (CCA). Using CCA to treat wood was banned in 2003, but many times this wood is still taken from demolitions or other sources and recycled into dyed mulches. CCA-treated wood can kill beneficial soil bacteria, beneficial insects, earthworms, and young plants. It can also be harmful to people spreading this mulch and animals who dig in it.

Safety of Dyed Mulch in the Garden

Besides the potential dangers of colored mulch and pets, people, or young plants, dyed mulches are not beneficial for the soil. They will help retain soil moisture and help protect plants during winter, but they do not enrich the soil or add beneficial bacteria and nitrogen, as natural mulches do. Dyed mulches break down much slower than natural mulches. When wood breaks down, it requires nitrogen to do so. Colored mulch in gardens can actually rob the plants of the nitrogen they need to survive. Better alternatives to dyed mulches are pine needles, natural double or triple processed mulch, cedar mulch, or pine bark. Since these mulches are not dyed, they will also not fade as quickly as dyed mulches and will not need to be topped up as often. If you want to use dyed mulches, simply research where the mulch has come from and fertilize plants with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer.

Using coconut coir as mulch is an environmentally friendly alternative to non-renewable mulches, such as peat moss. This important point, however, only scratches the surface when it comes to coir mulch benefits. Let’s learn the reasons why using coir for mulch is a great idea for many gardeners.

What is Coconut Coir?

Coconut fiber, or coir, a natural waste product resulting from the processing of coconuts, comes from the outer shell of the coconut husks. The fibers are separated, cleaned, sorted and graded before shipping. Coir mulch uses include brushes, ropes, upholstery stuffing and doormats. In recent years, coir has become widely used by gardeners as a mulch, soil amendment and potting soil ingredient.

Coir Mulch Benefits

• Renewability – Coir mulch is a renewable resource, unlike peat moss, which comes from non-renewable, diminishing peat bogs. Additionally, peat mining is not environmentally friendly, while harvesting of coir poses no threat to the environment. The downside is that although coir mulch is a sustainable industry, there is concern about the energy used to transport the mulch from its point of origin in places like Sri Lanka, India, Mexico and the Philippines.
• Water retention – Coir mulch holds 30 percent more water than peat. It absorbs water easily and drains well. This is an important benefit in drought-plagued areas, as use of mulch may reduce water use in the garden by as much as 50 percent.
• Compost – Coir, which is rich in carbon, is a useful addition to the compost pile, helping to balance nitrogen-rich materials like grass clippings and kitchen waste. Add coir to the compost pile at a rate of two parts coir to one part green material, or use equal parts coir and brown material.
• Soil amendment – Coir is a versatile substance used to improve difficult soil. For example, coir mulch helps sandy soil retain nutrients and moisture. As an amendment for clay-based soil, coir improves soil quality, preventing compaction and allowing freer movement of moisture and nutrients.
• Soil pH – Coir has a near-neutral pH level of 5.5 to 6.8, unlike peat, which is highly acidic with a pH of 3.5 to 4.5. This is an ideal pH for most plants, with the exception of acid-loving plants like rhododendron, blueberries and azaleas.

Using Coconut Coir as Mulch

Coir mulch is available in tightly compressed bricks or bales. Although coir mulch is easy to apply, it’s necessary to soften the bricks first by soaking them in water for at least 15 minutes. Use a large container for soaking coir, as the size will increase by five to seven times. A large bucket is adequate for a brick, but soaking a bale requires a container such as a large garbage can, wheelbarrow or a plastic small wading pool. Once the coir has been soaked, applying coir mulch is really no different than using peat or bark mulch. A layer 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.6 cm.) thick is adequate, although you may want to use more to keep weeds in check. If weeds are a serious concern, consider using landscape cloth or other barrier under the mulch.

It’s a well-known fact that termites feast on wood and other substances with cellulose. If termites get into your house and are left unabated, they can wreck the structural parts of a home. Nobody wants that. Many people are concerned about termites in mulch piles. Does mulch cause termites? If so, we wonder how to treat termites in mulch.

Does Mulch Cause Termites?

You may, on occasion, see termites in mulch piles. Mulch does not cause termites. Also, termites don’t typically thrive in mulch piles. Termites typically pre-exist deep underground in moist environments. They tunnel through the earth to find woody food products for their food. Mulch typically dries out enough that it is not a conducive environment for termites to build a nest. Termites in mulch piles are possible only if the pile is constantly kept very moist. A more realistic termite risk is caused by piling mulch too high up against your siding so that it provides a bridge over the termiticide treated foundation and into the house. Large pieces of wood, boards, or pressure-treated railroad ties are even more conducive to hosting a termite nest than mulch piles.

How to Treat Termites in Mulch

Do not spray insecticides into your mulch. Mulch and its decomposition process are very important to the health of the soil, trees, and other plants. Insecticides kill all the beneficial organisms in your soil and mulch. That is not a good thing. It is best to maintain a low mulch buffer area from 6 to 12 inches (15-31 cm.) wide around the perimeter of your house. This will stop termite bridges. Some experts recommend no mulch at all in this buffer area while others say a 2 inch (5 cm.) max mulch layer around your house is fine. Keep this area dry. Don’t water directly in the perimeter zone of your house. Remove large wood logs, boards, and railroad ties that are stored against your house for future DIY projects. Keep an eye out for termites as a matter of course. If you start to see termites regularly, call in a pest control expert to inspect the situation.

Should you mulch plants in the fall? The short answer is: yes! Mulching around plants in autumn has all kinds of benefits, from preventing soil erosion to suppressing weeds to protecting plants from moisture loss and shifts in temperature. Keep reading for fall mulching tips.

Fall Mulch for Plants

In a lot of areas, autumn is a time of drier air and more drastic shifts in temperature than in the summer growing season. If you have perennials or cool weather annuals, laying down a good, thick layer of mulch is highly advisable if you want them to stay healthy in the fall and survive the winter. Organic mulches such as pine needles, sawdust, straw, grass clippings, and fallen leaves are good for introducing nutrients into the soil. Be careful with straw, however, as it’s usually full of seeds and may cause a huge weed problem in the spring. Either purchase weed-free straw or compost it for a full year before using it. Using fall leaf mulch is a great idea because it’s seedless and, if you have any trees around, completely free. Spread your dead leaves around your plants several inches (8 cm.) deep. The only concern with dead leaves is that they’re low in nitrogen, an essential nutrient for spring growth. Apply 1 cup of nitrogen-rich fertilizer for every cubic foot of leaves. If you use grass clippings, apply thin layers on multiple passes to avoid it becoming a slimy mess. Don't use grass clippings if you’ve used any kind of herbicides on your lawn.

Mulching Around Plants in Autumn

Fall much for plants also doubles as a weed suppressant. You’ll enjoy having no weeds between your cabbages in the fall, but you’ll really enjoy having practically no weeds to pull in the spring! Lay down ¼ inch (0.5 cm.) stacks of newspaper or weed barrier in places you want absolutely no weeds, then cover it with 8 inches (20 cm.) of wood chips. Mulching around plants in autumn is also good for maintaining rich soil. Put down a sheet of sturdy plastic, weighted down with rocks, over any bare beds, and you’ll be welcomed in the spring by soil that is un-eroded and decidedly warmer (thus, easier to plant in) than the surrounding soil.

Wood is a popular choice for garden mulch, and with its pleasant smell and pest deterrence, using cedar for mulch is especially helpful. Keep reading to learn about cedar mulch problems and cedar mulch benefits.

Can You Use Cedar Mulch in Vegetable Gardens?

With all mulch comes the danger of wind. In areas with very high winds, it may be best not to apply mulch at all. If it’s only a little wind you’re battling, shredded wood mulch resists getting blown away better than chips. That said, cedar sawdust has been shown to negatively affect young plants and should be avoided. The problem with using any woody material as a mulch is that it draws essential nitrogen from the soil as it decomposes. It shouldn’t be much of a problem as long as the mulch stays on the soil’s surface, but once it is mixed into the soil, decomposition speeds up and is spread evenly through the soil. Because of this, cedar mulch problems arise in beds that are tilled regularly, such as vegetable gardens. While using cedar for mulch won’t immediately damage your vegetables, it’s a good idea to restrict it to plants that won’t be tilled every year. This does include some vegetables, like rhubarb and asparagus, which are perennials.

Tips on Using Cedar Mulch in Gardens

Cedar mulch in gardens that contain perennials should be applied to a depth of 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm.) for vegetables and flowers, and 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm.) for trees. If you’re laying it down around trees, keep it 6 inches (15 cm.) away from the trunk. While piling mulch up in hills around trees is popular, it’s actually very harmful and can discourage the natural widening of the trunk, making it more likely to be blown down by the wind. For very compacted or clay-heavy soil, apply 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm.) to help retain moisture.

Mulching with sawdust is a common practice. Sawdust is acidic, making it a good mulch choice for acid-loving plants such as rhododendrons and blueberries. Using sawdust for mulch can be an easy and economical choice, as long as you take a couple simple precautions. Keep reading for more information on mulching with sawdust.

How Can You Use Sawdust as Mulch?

Some people who put sawdust down as mulch in their gardens have noticed a decline in their plants’ health, leading them to believe that sawdust is toxic to plants. This is not the case. Sawdust is woody material that needs nitrogen to decompose. This means that as it biodegrades, the process may draw nitrogen out of the soil and away from your plants’ roots, making them weaker. This is much more of a problem if you incorporate the sawdust directly into the soil than if you use it as a mulch, but even with mulch, it’s still worthwhile to take precautions.

Precautions When Using Sawdust for Garden Use

The best way to prevent nitrogen loss when you use sawdust as a garden mulch is simply to add extra nitrogen with its application. Before laying the sawdust down, mix 1 pound (453.5 gr.) of actual nitrogen with every 50 pounds (22.5 kg) of dry sawdust. (This amount should cover a 10 x 10 foot (3x3 m.) area in your garden.) One pound (453.5 gr.) of actual nitrogen is the same thing as 3 pounds (1+kg) of ammonium nitrate or 5 pounds of ammonium sulfate (2+ kg.). 

Lay the sawdust out to a depth of 1 to 1 ½ inches (1.5-3.5 cm.), taking care not to pile it up around the trunks of trees and shrubs, as this can encourage rot. Sawdust can decompose at a fast rate and compact upon itself, so if you use sawdust as a garden mulch, you will probably have to replenish it and refluff it every year.

As long as there have been trees growing in the forest, there has been mulch on the ground beneath the trees. Cultivated gardens benefit from mulch as much as natural forests, and chipped wood makes an excellent mulch. Find out about the many benefits of wood mulch in this article.

Are Wood Chips Good Mulch?

Using wood mulch benefits the environment because waste wood goes into the garden instead of a landfill. Wood mulch is economical, readily available, and it’s easy to apply and remove. It isn’t blown around by winds like lightweight mulches. When it no longer looks its best, you can compost it or work it directly into the soil. A 1990 study that rated 15 organic mulches found that wood chips came in the top of three important categories:

• Moisture retention – Covering the soil with 2 inches (5 cm.) of wood mulch slows moisture evaporation from the soil.
• Temperature moderation – Wood chips block the sun and help keep the soil cool.
• Weed control – Weeds have difficulty emerging from beneath a cover of wood chips.

Chipped Wood or Bark Mulch

Wood chips contain wood and bark bits in a wide range of sizes. The diversity of size benefits the soil by allowing water to infiltrate and preventing compaction. It also decomposes at different rates, creating a diverse environment for soil organisms. Wood bark is another type of mulch that performs well in the garden. Cedar, pine, spruce, and hemlock are different types of bark mulch that vary in color and appearance. They all make effective mulches, and it’s fine to choose based on aesthetics. Another factor to consider is the longevity of the mulch. Pine will break down quickly while cedar may take years. You can use either chipped wood or bark mulch with confidence, knowing that you are helping your garden and the environment. There are, however, a few precautions you should take.

• Keep wood mulch away from the trunks of trees to prevent rot.
• If you are concerned about termites, use cedar mulch or keep other wood mulches at least 6 inches (15 cm.) from the foundation.
• Let your mulch age if you aren’t sure of your source. This allows time for any sprays that were used on the tree or diseases it may have had to break down.