April is the unofficial beginning of the gardening season in New England. While the region’s famously unpredictable weather can still throw off a gardener’s best-laid plans this month, New Englanders are a determined lot and will get to work outside anyway.

That’s why it’s essential for gardeners to adjust their plans based on local conditions. We’ll explore how Northeastern gardens can make a successful start in April throughout New England, from the coast to the mountains, and provide some suggestions for soil preparation, which flowers and vegetables can safely be planted outside, and how to protect your plants from unexpected chill.

New England’s Weather in April

New England may be small in comparison to other regions of the US. Still, its six states (Connecticut, Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Rhode Island, and Vermont) include four USDA hardiness zones, from zone 4 in northern Maine to zone 7 along the Connecticut coastline. Because of this, frost-free garden planting comes to southern New England much sooner than it does in Maine’s farthest reaches. Knowing your particular USDA zone is key for when you can plant the popular summer-loving vegetables and flowers like tomatoes and petunias.

Your region’s last frost date is important gardening information as well. It’s the average last day in spring on which a frost has occurred. That doesn’t mean you won’t experience a frost after that date, but the likelihood of it happening is much lower.

Generally speaking, April’s weather across the region can be summarized as:

• Southern New England: By mid-April, daytime temperatures are routinely range from mid-50°F to low-60°F, with infrequent nighttime temperatures dipping below freezing. Spring rains make for soggy cool soils in April.
• Central and Northern New England: Spring is slow to catch on in this area, with daytime temperatures ranging from 40°F to low 50°F, with more risk of nighttime frost than their southern neighbors. The ground is still quite cold through the month.
• Western Connecticut and Massachusetts: These hilly regions are cooler than the coast but warmer than those to the north. The danger of frost is gone by mid to late April, and the ground is just warm enough to plant cool-season crops.

A Note About Soils

In April New England’s sandy to rocky loam soils are cold and soggy, even muddy to heavy due to melting snow and spring rain. In-ground gardens need to dry out a bit before planting; otherwise, the working of the soil can cause compaction, and reduce aeration and drainage.

Test the readiness of your soil by grabbing a handful of it and squeezing it into a ball. If the soil remains in a ball as you release your grip, it’s still too wet for working and planting. If it falls apart, you’re able to till the ground and start planting.

Vegetables and Herbs to Plant in April

Once your soil is no longer cold and is dry enough to be tilled, you can start direct-sowing seeds of some crops into your garden. Alternatively, soils in raised beds tend to warm up and drain excess water sooner than in-ground gardens. The following vegetables and herbs do well in the cooler weather of early spring and on through the season. Sow seeds or plant as seedlings where available:

• Beets
• Broccoli
• Brussels sprouts
• Cabbage
• Carrots
• Cauliflower
• Chives
• Cilantro
• Kale
• Kohlrabi
• Lettuces
• Oregano
• Parsley
• Peas
• Potatoes
• Radishes
• Sage
• Spinach
• Thyme

It’s still too cool to plant summer heat-loving crops outdoors. However, starting seeds indoors in April will ensure they are a plantable size by mid- to late-May when summer weather is here to stay. These crops include:

• Basil
• Beans
• Cucumbers
• Eggplants
• Okra
• Peppers
• Rosemary
• Summer Squash
• Sweet Potatoes
• Tomatoes

Flowers and Ornamentals to Plant in April

April is still too early for the tender annuals that define summer gardens. However, a few perennials and annual flowers are hardy enough to take the cool spring weather. You’ll find the following to be colorful additions to an awakening spring landscape:

• Creeping phlox
• Daffodils
• Forsythia
• Hellebore
• Pansies
• Senecio
• Snapdragons

April is also the time to plant poppy seeds in your flower beds. Poppies are difficult to transplant, so scatter-sowing their seeds in early April is the best way to enjoy their beautiful blooms in summer.

There’s still time to start seeds of summer-flowering annuals indoors. If sown now, crops such as marigolds, zinnias, sunflowers, and cosmos will be big enough to plant outside when warmer weather arrives.

Fruits and Berries

April’s sunny yet mild days and cool nights are just the conditions for planting nutritious fruits and berries.

• Strawberries: Plant bare-root strawberry plants in April to establish their roots before blooming and fruiting begin.
• Blueberry, raspberry, and other fruit bushes: Planting now gives them time to settle in before the season’s growth occurs.
• Apple trees: Apples require well-draining soil and plenty of light. Choose varieties that can handle cooler New England weather. Plant different varieties or within range of a crabapple to ensure cross-pollination. Protect young trees from nibbling deer and other wildlife.

Why not include a fruit not readily found at your local grocery store? Try your hand at keeping a gooseberry or currant bush in your yard this year. Both include varieties suitable for New England climates. Plus, currants do well in partial sun, so they would be a nice addition to an understory garden.

Tips for Gardening in New England in April

Make the most of your time in the April garden. Here are a few tasks to keep you ahead of the growing season.

• Test Your Soil
  A soil test can help you determine what nutrients are in your soil, identifying its deficiencies and excesses. Your state university’s extension service can conduct the test to determine levels of phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, micronutrients, and the presence of contaminants such as lead. At-home soil testing kits are also available.
• Weed and Mulch Your Beds
  If your soil is still moist (but not wet!), weeds will pull up easily. Clear out as many weeds as you can and then apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch, even if you haven’t planted yet. The mulch will help control weeds and retain moisture throughout the season.
• Protect New Plantings From Frost
  Pay attention to the weather! If a freezing night is predicted, use row covers or cover with light blankets. Or create your own DIY cloche.
• Protect Plants From Pests
  Pests emerge and swarm on warm days. Use insect covers where possible to protect seedlings from chewing insects. Slugs are also a nuisance in the moist conditions of spring. Apply rings of diatomaceous earth or gravel around plantings to keep them away.
• Get Your Tools Together
  If you didn’t get to it in the fall, now’s the time to clean your hand tools for the growing season ahead. Learn about the 10 essential gardening tools you’ll need for your new garden.

The April garden is full of such potential! Take a moment to appreciate the seasonal changes that are about to happen.

More Growing Inspiration

• As well as our recommended plants for April you can also grow our New England plants for March.
• Discover the 10 flower seeds to Sow in April for endless blooms through summer and fall.
• Get sowing outdoors and inside with these 7 best vegetables to plant in April for a bumper summer harvest.
• Sign up for the Gardening Know Newsletter to receive growing tips and exclusive offers straight to your inbox.

March is an interesting month in New England. While those along the coasts of Connecticut and Rhode Island are enjoying some early-spring beachcombing, folks along the upper tiers of Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine are exhilarated by some of the best skiing of the season. The rest of New England’s inhabitants, including all of Massachusetts, are slogging around in the region’s unofficial fifth season – Mud Season.

No matter where one is along that continuum of sea coast to snowy mountains, March sees New Englanders actively thinking about and participating in their spring gardens. To be successful gardening in the Northeast, you need a clear understanding of your USDA hardiness zone, last frost date, garden soil preparation techniques, what can be grown outdoors, what should be grown indoors, and how you can handle unpredictable weather.

Understanding New England’s March Climate

New England stretches from the northern suburbs of New York City to New Brunswick, Canada. The six states in the region (Connecticut, Rhode Island, Massachusetts, Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine) include USDA hardiness zones from a temperate zone 7a along the Connecticut coast to a cold zone 4a in northern Maine (and even colder on the mountain peaks!).

These zone differences help us understand that northern regions of New England experience very cold average minimum winter temperatures – as low as -25°F – while more southerly locales’ average minimum temperatures rarely dip below 0°F. And as such, winters in southern New England can be up to a month shorter than in northern regions. This is all to say that it’s crucial to understand your particular USDA zone if you are a New England gardener.

What’s even more crucial to understand is your area’s last frost date. This is the average date of the last light freeze in spring. For southern Massachusetts, that date is as early as April 16. In Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom, that date is June 5. Big difference!

Even with last frost dates in April, planting in some portions of New England is possible. But first, you need to consider the soil’s condition. Much of New England’s soil is either still frozen or is beginning to thaw in March. Thanks to its general rockiness, the soil can be quite soggy and muddy this month. Check your soil’s moisture by squeezing a handful of it. If it stays clumped, your soil is much too wet. If you must plant, work some organic matter into your soil to improve drainage. Soil in raised beds drains better than garden soil, and it soil warms sooner, too, allowing for better germination and plant growth.

With the still-cold weather and the frozen or soggy ground, March may seem better suited for planning, indoor seed-starting, and gardening preparation. Depending on where you’re located in New England, you may be able to get to some planting in the garden. We’ll cover both below.

Vegetables and Herbs to Plant in March

Early March is a great time for starting seeds indoors to grow warm-weather summer vegetables. By the time the weather warms up to their liking (consistently above 50°F nighttime temperatures), the seeds you started indoors in March will be big enough to transplant into the garden.

Some warm-weather vegetables and herbs to start from seed indoors include:

• Basil
• Cilantro
• Cucumbers
• Eggplant
• Oregano
• Parsley
• Peppers
• Summer squashes
• Tomatoes

Start onions and leeks indoors, too. These crops have such a long growing season, so starting them indoors now ensures their growing season will be long enough for them to reach maturity.

Some cold-weather crops can be sown indoors now (or even back in February!) and planted outside in late March to mid-April. These crops include brassicas such as cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and kale. In fact, these plants can tolerate a touch of frost and can go outside even before spring’s last frost date.

Some southerly regions of New England are warm enough in the latter half of March to support the direct sowing or planting of a few crops. As soon as the soil is workable, sow these crops:

• Beets
• Peas
• Potatoes
• Radishes
• Spinach

In fact, planting peas on St. Patrick’s Day is a tradition to bring good luck! It’s just a month before the last frost date, and this crop does prefer to get its start while the weather is still chilly.

Flowers and Ornamentals in the March Garden

There aren’t a lot of flowering plants that can go in the ground now and bloom this month. However, there is color popping up here and there from previously planted trees, shrubs, bulbs and perennials, including:

• Crocus
• Forsythia
• Hellebore
• Snowdrops
• Witch hazel

You can plant these either now or in the fall – along with other trees and best perennials for New England. As long as the soil is workable you can plant now to give them a full season of growth.

Begin seeds of summer-flowering annuals indoors. Crops such as marigolds, zinnias, sunflowers, cosmos, pansies, and snapdragons all germinate easily indoors. They’ll be fit for planting out in the garden as soon as the last frost date has passed.

Note that pansies and snapdragons are more cold-hardy than other annuals. Pansies can even handle a bit of snow! A covered space close to the home may be enough to protect them from a cold snap. Otherwise, bring the pots into a garage if super-cold weather is predicted.

Fruits and Berries

March is an excellent time to plant berry bushes and suitable fruit trees for the Northeast. If your garden’s soil is workable, you can plant the following items now and harvest the fruit later this summer:

• Apple, pear, cherry, and other fruit trees
• Raspberry, blackberry, blueberry, and other fruit bushes

Strawberries can also be planted in late March. You may get a crop of berries from June-bearing strawberries, but you’ll have more of a chance to pick some fruit this season if you plant everbearing strawberries.

Tips for Gardening in New England in March

If you’re inspired to get in the garden this month but the weather isn’t cooperating for planting, you can prepare your gardens for when the time is right.

• Prepare Your Soil
  Soil can always use some loosening. Apply a layer of compost and dig it in with a garden fork. Test your soil pH so it’s ready for spring growth. Aim for a pH value between 6.0-7.0. Add lime to raise the pH if the soil is too acidic, and apply sulfur to lower the pH if it’s too alkaline.
• Mulch Planting Beds
  Once your soil has warmed up a bit (and has definitely thawed out), a layer of mulch will help control that early crop of weeds. It’ll also help retain moisture as your plantings emerge from their dormancy.
• Fix Beds and Other Structures
  If your garden gate is off-kilter or a raised bed is tilting, fix it now while you have the time.
• Protect Plants from Frost
  If you are planting in the garden this March, protect plants from a freeze. Use row covers in the garden or plant in cold frames. Doing so will protect your tender young plants from very cold temperatures.
• Protect from Pests
  Common pests for Northeast gardens are out early. Slugs thrive in spring’s damp conditions, so set up some physical barriers around the small plants. Flea beetles can swarm on warm spring days and absolutely devastate newly emerged seedlings. Use row covers and diatomaceous earth to repel them.

There might not be a whole lot going on in a New Englander’s garden in March, but enjoy this calm before the gardening storm of spring.

More Growing Inspiration

• Discover the 7 must-grow flower seeds to start in March for a heavenly summer garden.
• Get sowing outdoors and inside with these 8 best vegetables to plant in March for a longer harvest.
• Elevate your flower power with the 10 best flowers for hanging baskets.

Many gardeners find working outdoors is made more enjoyable by the array of bird songs that fill the air. Yet, did you know that some native birds of Northeast America are beneficial to the garden, while others can be detrimental? Being able to identify which birds are visiting the garden, helps gardeners determine whether or not they should be attracting or deterring these creatures.

Beneficial Birds: Northeast America

Our feathered friends help gardeners in many ways. Some birds consume the bugs and insects which plague our plants, and many birds are important pollinators. Seed-eating species can help us cut down on our weeding chores, especially when we've been a bit negligent in removing weeds before they mature and set seeds.

Bluebirds

These beautiful blue feathered insectivores sport a red breast and white belly. A portion of the bluebird's diet includes poke and sumac berries.

Cardinals

Male cardinals are easily recognized by their brilliant red plumage. They eat insects, grasses and tree buds as well as serviceberries, mulberries, elderberries and poison ivy berries.

Downy Woodpeckers

Gardeners can often spot these black and white birds by following the sound of their drumming as they forage for beetles, caterpillars and ants. Woodpeckers don't harm trees, but they can damage houses, barns and other wood structures.

Goldfinches

The brilliant yellow feathers of this species make it one of the most recognizable small birds of northeast states. There are several species of finches which populate the Northeast and their diets primarily consist of small seeds.

Ruby-Throated Hummingbirds

Known for their fast wing speed and long slender bills, the Ruby-throated hummingbird is not only an excellent pollinator but these tiny birds also consume flies, gnats and aphids.

Song Sparrows

As one of the many indigenous species of sparrows that inhabit the New England states, song sparrows consume many harmful insects including weevils, leaf beetles, and midges. In the winter, these brown and white striped birds feed on grass and weed seeds.

Common New England Birds That Damage Gardens

Most of the following birds have bad reputations from farmers and gardeners for eating flower buds and crops. Yet, it's important to remember that in addition to snacking on your fruits and veggies, these birds consume a large number of invertebrate garden pests.

Blue Jays

These vibrantly blue feathered birds eat caterpillars, beetles and grasshoppers, but a portion of their diet also includes berries and nuts. Protect your ripe cherries, blueberries and strawberries when these birds visit your garden.

Crows

Weighing in at about 1 pound (0.45 kg), crows are easily identified by their large size and glossy black plumage. Although crows eat grubs, caterpillars and armyworms, they will also snack on corn seedlings, fruits and vegetables.

Cowbirds

So named for their tendency to follow cows and consume the insects that get stirred up as the cattle graze, cowbirds will also damage crops like sorghum, millet, and rice. Male cowbirds are the easiest to identify by their black bodies and brown heads.

Grackles

Identified by their iridescent plumage in shades of black, purple or bronze, grackles love corn. They will not only eat the kernels, but also pull up the seedlings in the spring.

Red-Winged Blackbirds

These harbingers of spring damage commercial crops like oats, sorghum, wheat and rice, but can also be a problem for backyard gardeners growing corn and sunflowers. The females are a mottled brown color, but the males are easily identified by their black plumage and red shoulder patches.

Robins

As one of the most identifiable birds in the garden, robins eat a variety of ground dwelling harmful insects. Unfortunately, these red breasted birds can easily desecrate a blueberry or strawberry crop. They also like cherries and raspberries.

Other Common Birds of the Northeast

As many as 400 species of birds reside year round, overwinter or migrate through New England and the Northeast US states. It's unlikely every species will visit your garden, but here a few more birds you might spot in the backyard:

• American Yellow Warbler
• Baltimore Oriole
• Black Capped Chickadee
• Cedar Waxwing
• Gray Catbird
• Mourning Dove
• Tufted Titmouse
• White Breasted Nuthatch

It's easy to understand why Kudzu, Multiflora Rose, and Giant Knotweed are considered invasive plants in New York and surrounding states. These fast-growing plants invade home gardens, are difficult to remove and crowd out native species in uncultivated areas. Yet, you might be surprised to find a number of beloved landscaping plants have also made the invasive plant list.

What Are Invasive Plants?

Invasive plants are non-native or introduced species which are so well-adapted to the environment that they rapidly grow, reproduce and spread. They compete with and crowd out native species, many of which are vital to the ecosystem. Most invasive species originated in Europe and Asia and were brought to the US as ornamentals.

Many Northeast US states have enacted laws which prohibit the collection, sale, transport, distribution, propagation or transplantation of invasive species. While the regulations don't require existing plants to be removed, planting new ones is prohibited. Homeowners are advised to check with their local Forest or Grasslands office before adding regulated species to their property.

Maine to Pennsylvania: Invasive Plants Or Beloved Ornamentals

It's hard to believe that some of the most popular landscaping plants are considered invasive. Yet these species have escaped into the forests and parks of the Eastern US, where they compete with essential native species for resources. Here are six invasive landscaping plants you may see in your neighborhood or find in your own backyard:

• Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus) Adored for its brilliant red fall foliage, Burning Bush was introduced as an ornamental in the 1860's. It produces an abundance of seeds which are spread by birds.
• Crimson King Maple (Acer platanoides "Crimson King") The beautiful burgundy leaves made this Norway maple cultivar a popular landscape tree. Crimson King maples readily self-seed by sending out two-winged helicopters.
• Common Privet (Ligustrum obtusifolium) Introduced from Asia, privet was traditionally used for hedgerows and is popular in maze, labyrinth and knot gardens. Common privet spreads by root sprouts and birds distribute the seeds.
• Japanese Barberry (Berberis thunbergii) Valued for its vibrant red or orange fall foliage, Japanese Barberry was introduced in the late 1800's as an ornamental. It has escaped into forests, where it harbors large populations of blacklegged ticks.
• Japanese Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) Introduced for its fragrant flowers and erosion control, Japanese Honeysuckle has become a widespread Northeast invasive vine. Identification to distinguish it from American Honeysuckle is recommended as the former has a twining growth habit which allows it to form dense mats and blanket trees.
• Running Bamboo (Phyllostachys aurea) Introduced to the US in the 1880's, Running Bamboo is one of the invasive grasses Northeast homeowners have come to love. Often used for privacy screens and noise reduction, Running Bamboo spreads rapidly via underground rhizomes.

Invasive Plants: New England and Northeast US

Whether an invasive species was intentionally planted or it naturalized on the property, it's advisable to use precautions when removing these plants from the yard or garden. Composting or shredding may not kill seeds or rhizomatous type roots. In addition, these plants might not be accepted at yard waste recycling centers.

Homeowners are advised to contact their local Extension offices should they need help identifying or properly disposing of invasive plant species. Here's a partial list of species which may be regulated as invasive plants in Northeast US states:

• Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima)
• Garlic Mustard (Alliaria petiolata)
• European Black Alder (Alnus glutinosa)
• European Barberry (Berberis vulgaris)
• Oriental Bittersweet (Celastrus orbiculatus)
• Spotted Knapweed (Centaurea stoebe)
• Black Swallow-wort (Cynanchum louiseae)
• Pale Swallow-wort (Cynanchum rossicum)
• Autumn Olive (Elaeagnus umbellata)
• Glossy Buckthorn (Frangula alnus)
• Reed Sweet Grass (Glyceria maxima)
• Amur Honeysuckle (Lonicera maackii)
• Moneywort (Lysimachia nummularia)

We would almost certainly have little food without the aid of our pollinators. Encouraging and protecting these important insects and animals helps uphold our food system. Installing native New England pollinator plants is one way to lure bees and other organisms into our landscapes. Using pollinator plants indigenous to the northeast region provides important food and habitat. Local plants are also adapted to the area and tend to need less maintenance and have natural resistance to pests and disease.

Northeast gardeners can increase the number of pollinating insects and animals by utilizing the wild flora of the region. A pollinator garden should feature a variety of flowering plants that support bees and others. The most common New England pollinators are bees, butterflies, wasps, flies, and beetles. A well planned pollinator garden for Pennsylvania, New Hampshire, and other states of the northeast will be rife with plants and pollinating partners.

Pollinator Garden New England Features

Plants are the primary drivers for pollinators, but they also need water, food, and shelter. While providing them with plants for food is important, they seek refuge among the leaves, in the soil, and in cracks and crevasses. An overly tidy garden often reduces these habitats, but in a pollinator garden, these features are retained. Host plants are important for insects like butterflies, who lay their eggs on the undersides of leaves.

Plants that larvae eat should also be included in the northeast garden. Often larvae feast on different plants from their adult counterparts. Planting a diversity of flora is the easiest way to provide hosts, food, and shelter. Leaving shallow dishes of water will satisfy the insect's thirst without introducing the possibility of drowning. Keep these in areas where you have seen pollinators congregating.

Pollinator Needs Northeast

Pollinator shrubs for the northeast region can increase species diversity among our pollinators. Several important insects have recently been declared endangered or species for special conservation. The frosted elfin is a butterfly whose larvae require yellow wild indigo and wild lupine for forage. They frequent dry, open forests and scrub areas. The rusty patch bumblebee is listed as endangered and needs plenty of blooming plants in an area with nesting sites. The Monarch butterfly requires milkweed, a plant that thrives in open grassland. Violets are important food for the regal fritillary.

Wildflowers of the region will ensure plenty of food for both adult and larval species of these types.

• Mountain mint
• Shaggy Blazing Star
• Pinnate Prairie Coneflower
• Bee Balm
• Blue Wild Indigo
• Zigzag Goldenrod
• Blanket flower
• Stonecrop

Pollinator Shrubs Northeast

Flowering shrubs are important food and attractors for pollinators. They also add much needed dimension to the landscape, producing a pleasing aesthetic. Selecting plants that produce deep throated blooms will encourage pollinators such as butterflies and hummingbirds. Shrubs with smaller flowers are more attractive to the tiny pollinating insects. Flowers that are dull white, purple, or green and send out a musky scent will encourage bats. Abelia is also known as the bee bush due to its long bloom period and plentiful nectar. Fruit trees are popular with a variety of pollinators.

• Highbush Blueberry
• Sweet Pepperbush
• Buttonbush
• Arrow wood
• Ninebark
• Kilmarnock Willow
• Oakleaf Hydrangea
• Summersweet
• Lilac
• Virginia Rose
• Serviceberry

Try to stagger plants with different flowering times, so pollinators have food throughout the year. Use early blooming bulbs such as crocus to provide food in the late winter. Contact your local extension office for lists of wild plants that will assist in attracting these crucial pollinators to your garden.

Lawns didn’t become popular in the Northeast United States until the late 18th century, but the first lawns were cultivated around English and French castles out of necessity. Today there’s probably at least one home on the block that has a lawn that’s the envy of all the others, and that comes down to choosing the best grass seed and the best time to plant grass seed in the Northeast. It also means paying attention to a strict lawn fertilizer schedule in the Northeast, weed control and fall lawn care for Northeast lawns. Read on to learn how to get that picture-perfect lawn for your landscape.

Choosing Grass for Northeast Lawns

As mentioned earlier, lawns were cultivated out of necessity around the 16th century. Trees would be felled, shrubbery removed and wild grasses allowed to grow naturally around the castles. The reasoning was so that enemy soldiers couldn’t sneak up on the castle and so that the castle inhabitants could keep an eye on the surrounding countryside.

The grasses we grow today weren’t part of the lawns of the 16th century. Today’s turf grasses have been especially selected/developed with certain criteria in mind. New England grasses usually contain Kentucky bluegrass due to its tolerance for cold temps. Other grasses that might be part of a turf mix include fescues, perennial ryegrass, buffalo grass, bentgrass, blue grama, St. Augustine, centipede grass, and switchgrass to name a few.

When to Plant Grass Seed in the Northeast

In the Northeast, sow grass seed in the late summer to early fall when there is less weed competition and temperatures are cool enough for the grass to germinate and grow. Seeding any later than October is not recommended as soils may be too wet.

If you plan on renovating areas of thin turf or smaller barren areas, you can overseed in the late winter, spring or early fall.

Sod can be laid at almost any time of year provided irrigation is available. However, laying sod in the hot, dry summer months will require extra water and more time to establish.

How to Fertilize Lawns in the Northeast

Turf grasses require more nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium than is available in the soil, so fertilizing becomes a necessity for the perfect lawn. A soil test is the best way to determine how much of any nutrient your sod needs. If you are using a mulching mower, you may not need to supplement nutrients since the grass clippings break down and add them to the lawn.

Generally, however, turf grasses should have an annual application of nitrogen in the form of a slow-release fertilizer during the mid- to late spring and/or late summer or early fall. Apply fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Do not use an all in one weed killer/fertilizer since the application rates are based on the weed killer, not the fertilizer. Do not apply fertilizer if rain is imminent.

Weeds in Turf Grass

Weeds in the lawn are not necessarily a bad thing. Many weeds such as dandelions and clover provide valuable food sources for bees. If you are allergic to bees or the clover is overtaking the turf, then maybe it’s time to investigate methods for weed control.

The best way to control weeds is to grow healthy grass. Choose the best grass seed or mix for your conditions. Water and mow to encourage grass growth -- infrequent irrigation and low mowing contribute to weed growth. Compact soil and pest infestation also give weeds the go ahead. Keep the lawn healthy by fertilizing at the appropriate times with the correct rates.

Of course the most time consuming but the least harmful to the environment is to go out and remove the weeds by hand.

Mowing Tips

• Proper mowing can go a long way in maintaining a healthy lawn.
• Unless your grass is only mowed infrequently, there is no reason to bag or rake grass clippings. Just leave them to decay where they will add valuable nutrients back into the turf grass.
• Try not to mow when the grass is wet. Wet conditions won’t kill the grass but they will cause compacted soil which can lead to water runoff and other issues.
• Vary the direction you go on each mowing to encourage upright grass growth.
• Keep mower blades sharp. Dull blades tear grass resulting in injury.

Water is at a premium right now. Drought frequency and length has increased by nearly a third globally since 2000. Lack of irrigation is just one reason many gardeners are looking for lawn alternatives. Native ground cover is one solution but there are also other lawn alternatives for denizens of New England and the surrounding region. Read on to learn about Northeast lawn alternatives.

Why Gardeners Should Try Lawn Alternatives

Water conservation isn’t the only reason a lawn alternative might be a good choice for your landscape. Lawns are high maintenance and often rely on a slew of toxic chemicals which are not only costly but also detrimental to our ecosystem and pollinator population.

Sure it’s nice for the kiddos to have grass to run and play on, not to mention Fido, but there are alternatives available that will combine the comfort of a lawn without the mess, labor, cost and deficit to the environment.

Best Ground Cover for New England

If you are thinking about replacing your turf grass, the first thing that might come to mind is a perennial ground cover. This is for good reason, but before you dive in, take a minute to consider your options. The common ground covers Vinca minor (periwinkle), English ivy, and pachysandra are highly invasive... not to mention rather uninspired. Practically everyone has one or all three of these ground covers.

That doesn’t mean ground covers aren’t a good lawn replacement. They fill in rapidly and need no mowing. Many other types of ground cover have root systems that resist soil erosion, are drought tolerant, evergreen and often have the benefit of blooming. Plus there are ground covers for sun drenched or shaded areas.

Sun loving alternatives to turf include bugleweed and hens and chicks. Shade alternatives include European ginger, Christmas fern and Allegheny spurge. Yes, the latter is a pachysandra, but this variety (P. procumbens) is an extremely hardy, drought tolerant, native plant worthy of a place in the landscape.

Low growing succulents can fit the bill when replacing lawn as well. One such option is Sedum takesimense ‘Atlantis’.

Lawn Alternatives for New England

Another lawn option is white clover (Trifolium repens). Once commonly found in grass seed mixes, white clover, like black medic (Medicago lupulina) and birdsfoot trefoil (Lotus corniculatus) fix nitrogen, which makes them act like a fertilizer. Other options include creeping thyme, ground ivy (G. hederacea), cinquefoil and common blue violet (Viola soraria), which is deer resistant.

If you would rather mimic the look of turf without the hassle of mowing, opt for “No-Mow” grass blends of fine fescue that, once established, require little care. Uncut fescue grows to about 12-15 inches (30-38 cm.) tall in mounds about 6 inches (15 cm.) in height that only need to be mowed four times a year to maintain a 4 inch (10 cm.) height. There are varieties suited for use in sun, shade and various soil conditions.

Other options for a lawn free area are sedges. One lawn alternative is Pennsylvania sedge (Carex pensylvanica). This 10-inch (25 cm) clumping grass is drought tolerant and discourages weeds. Another sedge, Seersucker sedge (Carex plantaginea) has puckered, wavy foliage while Carex laxiculmis (Spreading sedge) has silvery blue leaves.

Since sedges thrive in shade, a sun loving alternative lawn is sprawling Liriope spicata with violet flower spikes in the summer or Liriope muscari, a less aggressive clumping varietal. Both sedge and liriope should be mowed just once at the highest setting in the early spring.

Additional Alternative Lawn Ideas for Northeast Gardeners

A meadow garden comprised of a mix of grasses and perennials is a lovely option to a traditional lawn. Be aware however that these meadows take two to three years to establish. But once they do, they enliven the area with habitat, food and shelter for wildlife and pollinators.

Lastly, to reduce maintenance time, a lawn can simply be made smaller by expanding surrounding beds and adding trees, shrubs, ground covers, and perennial bloomers. With careful thought about your choices you can implement low maintenance, drought tolerant, pollinator friendly and non-invasive species that are sure to please the eye and reduce the necessity for labor, chemicals or irrigation.

The best bushes for Northeast gardeners depend upon a variety of criteria. Are you looking for deer resistant shrubs for your Northeast garden, or native New England shrubs? Do you prefer evergreen shrubs, or are you more focused on flowering bushes? Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered. Keep reading to learn about the best bushes for your Northeastern garden.

Types of Bushes for Northeast Gardeners

If you are looking for low maintenance plantings look no further than shrubs native to New England and the northeasta. Native plants have many advantages, not the least of which is that over time they have become adapted to the climate they grow in. This means they are often low maintenance having acclimated to drought or consistently wet soil or high summer or frigid winter temperatures. This ups their survivability significantly.

Native plants also provide shelter and food for local animals as well as nectar and pollen for birds, bees, and other pollinators.

That said, you may have your heart set on a non-native species for your New England landscape. Non-native plants may give you a specific year-round interest, height, bloom color, and more that you are searching for.

Before you invest in shrubs for the garden, identify exactly what you are looking for in height, bloom time and color, ability to attract pollinators and wildlife, low maintenance, deer resistance, or other needs.

Landscape Planning Tips

Once you’ve decided on your plant needs, it’s time to check out the specifics of your landscape. Is your soil mostly silt, clay, or sand? Well-draining or wet? Is the soil neutral, acidic, or alkaline? The best way to determine the content of your soil is by doing a soil test.

Also consider your sun exposure. Does the area you wish to plant sit in full sun, partial sun, or part shade? How many hours of sun does the site get? Full sun is determined to be an area with six or more hours of direct sun, part sun four to six, and part shade two to four. A completely shaded site gets less than two hours of direct sun per day.

Most plants need a supplemental water source; even drought tolerant plants need supplemental water when young. Is there sufficient water available in this area?

Once you have an idea of the condition of your garden, it’s time to research plants. Before you purchase you should know about the growth habit, especially the shrubs' mature size, rate of growth, spread, invasive potential, and of course maintenance required.

Evergreen Shrubs for New England

Some gardeners think of evergreens as rather boring but many of them not only provide a supportive backdrop to the garden but yield colorful foliage or berries sure to entice wildlife while adding a pop of color to the winter landscape.

Evergreen shrubs suited to New England include:

• Japanese Pieris ‘Katsura'
• Meserve Holly ‘Conapry'
• Viburnum ‘Cree'
• Rhododendron
• Azalea
• Gardenia
• False cypress
• Mirror bush
• Inkberry holly
• Arborvitae
• Wintercreeper
• Juniper
• Boxwood
• Yew
• Spruce
• Japanese holly
• Mugo pine
• Mahonia

These are all suited to east coast gardens. Some of them do double duty; not only are they evergreen but they provide year-round interest and/or bloom or fruit.

Deer Resistant Bushes for Northeastern Gardens

Deer can be indiscriminate and rapacious eaters but there are some shrub choices even they turn their noses up at. Generally, deer eschew plants that are toxic, aromatic, and heavily tactile. Some of the shrubs listed above as evergreens fit the bill such as arborvitae, inkberry, pieris, boxwood, holly, and yew.

Other options for deer resistant shrubbery include:

• mountain laurel
• eastern red cedar
• bayberry
• bluebeard
• spirea
• barberry
• juniper
• bamboo
• wintercreeper

If you are looking for deer resistant shrubs that bloom, try planting butterfly bush (Buddleia), Russian sage, and swamp rose. Lilac, bottlebrush buckeye, witch hazel, mock orange, camellia, some dogwood (Kousa, Red Osier, and Red Twigged), and rose of Sharon are additional blooming shrubs that deer seem to be disinterested in.

Ornamental grass offers so much beauty with so little maintenance that many gardeners decide to switch out their turf grass. It you are one of them, take all the time you need to select an appropriate ornamental grass species that will grow happily in your area. The idea is to select a native species. If you live in the northeast of the country, you’ll be glad to hear that there are more than a few native ornamental grasses for New England.

New England Ornamental Grasses

Ornamental grass is a wonderful substitute for turf grass if you live in the Northeast. Not only are New England ornamental grasses eye-catching, with interesting texture and movement, but they are also exceptionally low maintenance. They are very adaptable and grow well in almost any sunny location in well-drained soil.

Picking Mid-Atlantic native grasses guarantees you an extremely cold hardy species and a grass well-adapted to the climate. These native ornamentals are generally warm-season grass that grow rapidly in the spring and summer, bloom in late summer or fall, and go dormant through the winter. In general, native grasses are best. Consider some of the following species for New Hampshire landscapes.

Native Ornamental Grasses Northeast

Native ornamental grasses for New England should be hardy to USDA zones 3 and 4 when planted in an appropriate location. The grasses are varied in appearance, but each has its own graceful beauty. Here are some to consider:

Indian Grass (Sorghastrum nutans) is a tall clumping grass with blue-green foliage to 8 feet (2 m.) tall with a feathery seed head of toasty brown. Indian grass needs a site with sun and is hardy to USDA zone 3.

Purple love grass (Eragrostis spectabilis) is a shorter grass, growing to 2 feet (61 cm.) tall and offering lovely clouds of purple seed heads. Purple love grass likes dry soil and works well in mass plantings.

Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) is a great choice for those who love colorful ornamental grass. Little bluestem boasts gorgeous blue foliage that turns orange and red in autumn plus purple seed heads. It grows in dense and compact to 3 feet (1 m.) tall. It prefers dry soil and attracts wildlife.

Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum), hardy to USDA zone 4, is tall, growing to 6 feet (2 m.). Switchgrass’s green foliage turns red in fall, and the flowers grow in long red panicles. This native is easy to grow with a wide soil tolerance. It will require a sunny site since it does not tolerate shade.

Big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) is one of the tallest and most attractive native grasses in Maryland. Growing to 8 feet (2 m.) tall, big bluestem’s foliage is blue-green in summer but turns to fiery colors in fall. The seed head is said to resemble a turkey’s foot. Adaptable and tolerant, it is wonderful as a wildlife habitat.

Caring for Native Ornamental Grasses

Native ornamental grasses have adapted not just to New England climates, but also to growing in poor soil. They need little or no fertilizer if you mix a little compost into the soil.

What about water? These grasses are very drought tolerant once established, but that doesn’t mean they never need a drink. They need irrigation the first summer after planting, especially if the weather is dry. Ideally, mature grasses will get one inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week from rain or irrigation.

Don’t worry about mowing the grass every few weeks. Ornamental grasses only need to be cut back once a year to look great. Cutting them to within a few inches (8 cm.) from the ground in fall or spring is best. If you wait until spring, ornamental grasses provide winter interest and serve as a natural food source for wildlife.

You’ll also want to divide grass clumps every three to five years. Just dig up the clump and chop it into a few pieces with a shovel or axe, then replant. This process is best undertaken in spring before new growth begins.

There are many good reasons to include native plants in the landscape. Not only are these species well-adapted to the environment and require less care, but they also benefit indigenous animals, birds, and insects. Here's a comprehensive list of native plants Northeast gardeners are sure to love.

Perennial Flowering and Foliage Plants

Whether you're looking for Maryland native plants to add a bit of color to your cottage garden or you're tired of fickle ornamentals in your upstate New York backyard, these native plants will add visual interest to any flowerbed:

• Alumroot (Heuchera americana)
• Aromatic Aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolius)
• Bee Balm (Monarda fistulosa)
• Blue-eyed Grass (Sisyrinchium angustifolium)
• Blue Iris (Iris versicolor)
• Blue Wild Indigo (Baptisia australis)
• Bugbane (Cimicifuga racemosa)
• Butterfly Milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa)
• Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis)
• Common Boneset (Eupatorium perfoliatum)
• Common Sneezeweed (Helenium autumnale)
• Culver's Root (Veronicastrum virginicum)
• Cutleaf Coneflower (Redbeckia laciniata)
• Dwarf Crested Iris (Iris cirstata)
• False Solomon's Seal (Smilacina racemosa)
• Foxglove Beardtongue (Penstemon digitalis)
• Garden Phlox (Phlox paniculata)
• Golden Alexanders (Zizia aurea)
• Golden Ragwort (Senecio aureus)
• Great Blue Lobelia (Lobelia siphilitica)
• Green-and-Gold (Chrysogonum virginianum)
• Heartleaf Foam Flower (Tiarella cordifolia)
• Jacob's Ladder (Polemonium reptans)
• Marsh Blazing Star (Liatris spicata)
• Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris)
• Meadow Bottle (Gentiana clausa)
• New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae)
• New York American Aster (Symphyotrichum novi-beggii)
• New York Ironweed (Vernonia noveboracensis)
• Orange Coneflower (Rudbeckia fulgida)
• Ox-eye Sunflower (Heliopsis helianthoides)
• Red Columine (Aquilegia canadensis)
• Scarlet Bee Balm (Monardo didyma)
• Showy Goldenrod (Solidago speciosa)
• Slender Mountain Mint (Pycanthemum tenuifolium)
• Solomon's Seal (Polygonatum biflorum)
• Spotted Cranebill (Geranium maculatam)
• Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata)
• Swamp Sunflower (Helianthus angustifolius)
• Swamp Verbena (Verbena hastata)
• Sweet Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium purpureum)
• Tall Coreopsis (Coreopsis tripteris)
• Trumpetweed (Eutrochium fistulosum)
• Turk's Cap Lily (Lilium michiganense)
• Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia virginica)
• White Turtlehead (Chelone glabra)
• White Woodland Aster (Eurybia divaricatus)
• Wild Bleeding Heart (Dicentra eximia)
• Wild Ginger (Asarum canadense)

Ferns

From the western edge of Pennsylvania to the top of Maine, native plants in these fern species are the perfect accent foliage for shady areas of the garden:

• Cinnamon Fern (Osmundastrum cinnamomeum)
• Interrupted Fern (Osmunda claytoniana)
• Marginal Wood Fern (Dryopteris marginalis)
• Northern Lady Fern (Athyrium angustum)
• Ostrich Fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris)
• Royal Fern (Osmunda regalis)
• Sensitive Fern (Onoclea sensibilis)

Grasses, Rushes, and Sedges

Why struggle with non-native species of turf grass and ornamentals in the garden? Try these New England and Pennsylvania native plants instead.

• Common Rush (Juncus effusus)
• Fox Sedge (Carex vulpinoidea)
• Indian Grass (Sorghastrum nutans)
• Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)
• Pennsylvania Sedge (Carex pensylvanica)
• Prairie Dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis)
• Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum)
• Tussock Sedge (Carex stricta)

Bushes

Whether you're looking for blueberry plants that thrive in New Jersey or native hydrangea, Northeast gardeners have an array of indigenous shrubs from which to choose:

• American Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens)
• Arrowhead (Viburnum dentatum)
• Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis)
• Common Witchhazel (Hamamelis virginiana)
• Common Winterberry (Ilex verticillata)
• Cranberrybush (Viburnum opulus)
• Eastern Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius)
• Fragrant Sumac (Rhus aromatica)
• Gray Dogwood (Swida racemosa)
• Highbush Blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum)
• Lowbush Blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium)
• Nannyberry (Viburnum lentago)
• Red Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia)
• Redosier Dogwood (Swida sericea)
• Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia)
• Silky Dogwood (Swida amomum)
• Small Bayberry (Morella caroliniensis)
• Sweet Fern (Comptonia peregina)
• Sweet Pepper Bush (Clethra alnifolia)

Trees

Let's not forget the many species of native trees which comprise acres of forest land in Northeastern United States. These indigenous plants will be at home in backyards throughout the region:

• American Elm (Ulmus americana)
• American Holly (Ilex opaca)
• American Hornbeam (Carpinus caroliniana)
• Blackgum (Nyssa sylvatica)
• Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis)
• Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana)
• Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida)
• Northern Red Oak (Quercus rubra)
• Pawpaw (Asimina triloba)
• Pin Oak (Quercus palustris)
• Red Maple (Acer rubrum)
• River Birch (Betula nigra)
• Sugar Maple (Acer saccharum)
• White Oak (Quercus alba)
• White Pine (Pinus strobus)

The Northeast region of the United States features a wild diversity in regard to its pests. Insects in New England cover several states such as New York, Massachusetts, Connecticut, Rhode Island, New Hampshire, Vermont, and Maine. Some of the area is coastal, while some is heavily forested, providing a variety of habitats for pests. The bugs of the Northeast consist of biting, boring, crawling, and stinging insects. These bugs not only bug humans, but can cause crop damage, and severe tree infestations.

No place is free of insect pests, and that includes the American Northeast. The bugs of New England span a variety of attacking behaviors. The home garden will be visited by many annoying insects, but the greater wild regions are also prey to bugs like borers. Recognize the local flying and crawling creatures and know what steps to take to reduce their potential damage.

Insect Pests in the Vegetable Garden

Gardeners who plant food are aware of the need to protect their vegetables from insects. Bugs like Japanese beetles, Colorado potato beetles, tomato hornworms, and Mexican bean beetles can be handpicked from plants because they are large enough to spot. But tiny pests such as aphids require organic controls such as horticultural soaps. Row covers are an excellent way to protect vegetables from small insects like flea beetles. Cleaning up old vegetation reduces habitat for eggs and larvae of insect pests. Such insects as European corn borer and squash bug, overwinter in old plant debris. Diatomaceous earth is an effective deterrent for slugs and snails whose feeding will decimate plant leaves.

Lawn Insects in the Northeast

Insects in New York and other Northeast states can take a toll on sod health. Many home gardeners have to contend with big pests such as gophers and moles, but the bugs can do the most subversive damage. Many varieties of grubs live under the grass roots. Some of them eat the leaves, while others eat the roots. Their tunneling behavior disrupts roots and causes areas of the sod to die. Brown spots in the grass are an indication of possible grub infestations. Cream colored Japanese beetle grubs are often the culprit, but sod webworms may also be present. Other insect pests found in sod are chinch bugs, bluegrass billbugs, crane flies, and cutworms.

Northeast Pests of Trees

There are many beautiful and historic forests in New England. Unfortunately, their health is jeopardized by insects, many of whom are not native. The spotted lanternfly is one of these and can kill a tree with high infestations. Galls, or unusual formations on stems can indicate potentially dangerous mites. Many larval forms eat foliage and damage tree health. Borers are especially hazardous, as they hide in the tree's interior, disrupting the pathways for nutrients and water. These are but a few common insect pests of trees:

• Cottony Mountain Scale
• Bronze Birch Borer
• Elm Spanworm
• Eastern Tent Caterpillar
• Brown Marmorated Stink Bug
• Bagworm
• Spruce Spider Mite
• White Pine Weevil
• European Pine Sawfly
• Carpenter Ants
• Birch Leafminer
• Emerald Ash Borer

Although some of the insects prefer a certain species of tree, many are equal opportunity pests who can infest a wide variety of species. Control is often achieved through spraying. In larger trees, a contracted professional is often the best way to achieve control. Certain systemic pesticides may also afford relief.

Note: Any recommendations pertaining to the use of chemicals are for informational purposes only. Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and more environmentally friendly.

Planning a flower garden is one of the gardener's great delights. With careful planning, the landscape has the potential to bring brilliant color almost all year, while attracting pollinators. Selecting perennial flowers for the northeast should take into consideration site, hardiness, care and light levels, and resistance to disease and pests. For instance, the best shade perennials for some New England regions must withstand a possible USDA hardiness zone down to 3. Such cold temperatures require freeze tolerant Northeast perennial flowers with a stoic nature and the year after year consistency we expect from perennial plants.

Perennial flowers give great value due to their annual shows. It is important to maximize our purchases by choosing plants that fit their environment, both in form and hue, but also in temperament. New England perennials must be adaptive to some fairly harsh weather, where deep freezes are common, but summer heat can be oppressive. Fortunately, breeding programs are always coming out with hardier plants that withstand deep freezes and are resistant to disease, deer and other pests.

Choosing New England Perennials

In northeastern North America, the summers are hot and humid, while winter is cold and usually snowy. Temperatures may range from 26 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit (-3.33 to 29.4 C.). In hard winters, temperatures can dip well below zero. Such extremes require hardy plants that can take those wild ranges.

To encourage blooming plants, select flowers that attract a wide variety of pollinators such as bees, moths, and hummingbirds. Bright colors are often the key to bringing in these beneficial organisms, but also bloom period, and the shape of the flowers. Selecting attracting plants in a range of varieties allows for blooms over a long duration of time, feeding these important insects and animals. As they feed, they will transfer pollen, allowing flowers to set seed and fruit and repopulate. Pollinator plants for New England might be:

• Blanket Flower
• Stonecrop
• Bee Balm
• Butterfly Weed
• Bergamot
• Goldenrod
• Coneflower

Deer Resistant Perennials Northeast

Deer are a part of many northeast gardens. The wild animals are majestic and beautiful, but a nuisance to committed gardeners. Their browsing habits can decimate entire plants, and they seem to love young stems and flowers the most. Plants like hosta and yew seem to suffer the most since the animals enjoy the taste, but in lean times, deer will eat almost anything. Plants that are thorny or prickly, such as barberry, seem to repel the pesky ruminants. Try:

• Lungwort
• Ligularia
• Hellebore
• Bergenia
• Hakone Grass
• Japanese Painted Fern
• Bleeding Heart
• Lady Fern
• Epimedium

Shade Tolerant Perennials for Northeastern Gardens

New England is the site of many forests and treed areas. That means lots of shade, a condition that makes plant selection challenging. Most flowering perennials prefer at least 6 hours of sun, but there are still some that thrive in low light conditions. These plants are also often in consistently moist soil, a circumstance eschewed by many of our most common perennials. Plants that do well in shade are:

• Hosta
• Wild Ginger
• Sweet Woodruff
• Ostrich Fern
• Solomon's Seal
• Brunnera
• Astilbe
• Baneberry

Caring for Perennials in New England

Each plant has different water and light needs, so it is important to consult the plant tag when you purchased the item. Cut off spent blooms in flowering plants to potentially encourage a new flush and keep them tidy. If the plant is herbaceous and deciduous, cut it back in early spring to make room for new growth. Many perennial plants benefit from division every few years. Due to the cold temperatures, mulching with organic matter such as bark, leaf litter, or grass clippings in fall can help keep roots warm and protected. Do not pile mulch over the crown of the perennial as it can keep in moisture and cause rot.

Whether you want fresh or dried flowers, blooms for shade or sun, or flowers for containers or the garden, annuals can’t be beat. Not all annuals are created equal, however. Some do better in the Pacific Northwest or the South and then some plants thrive in the Northeast region of the United States. So, what are some of the best annuals for New England gardens? Read on to learn about blooming Northeast plants, specifically New England annuals.

About Annuals

Perennials are long lasting and give year after year, but annuals will always be a favorite in the garden of those who love flowers. Annuals are quick growing with brilliant color, versatile, often less expensive, and adaptable for planting over waning spring blooming bulbs.

Low maintenance annuals come in an array of hues, textures, sizes, and sun exposures. Some like full sun while others thrive in shade to part shade. There’s truly an annual for any environment in your landscape.

Annuals for Northeastern Gardens

The Northeast United States is known for its harsh winters but once the blustery winter is behind us, gardeners are searching for some quick color in the form of blooming annuals. Luckily, the Northeast is fairly temperate from spring through fall giving the gardener a large selection of annuals to choose from.

Types of Annuals for the Northeast

Some annuals are easy going in most any climate. These include geraniums, impatiens, marigolds, pansies, and snapdragons. Just as these annuals will thrive in the Pacific Northwest, so too are they common choices for the Northeastern gardener.

Other common flowers that will thrive in a New England garden include dahlias, nasturtiums, petunias, and zinnias.

If you’re more interested in planting a specific area of your garden such as a shaded niche or a sun drenched hillside— we’ve got you covered.

Sun Loving Annuals for New England

While the above common annuals thrive in sun so too do blooming angelonia, bidens, blanket flower, cape daisy, flossflower, gazania, lantana, Mexican heather, phlox, portulaca, salvia, strawflower, sweet alyssum, and verbena.

Foliage annuals that will do well in New England include dusty miller, ornamental kale or pepper, and sweet potato vine.

Grasses complete the look by adding some height and movement. Grasses for the Northeast include feather grass, fountain grass, and golden millet grass.

Annuals for Shade to Part Shade

There are plenty of shade loving annuals for Northeastern gardeners. For example begonia, browallia, flowering tobacco, foxglove, fuchsia, impatiens, lobelia, New Guinea impatiens, twinspur, and wishbone flower are all blooming annuals suited to this climate.

Foliage plants for Northeast gardens include bloodleaf, Joseph’s coat, coleus, fancy leaved caladium, perilla, Rex begonia, and shamrock. Are you thinking of incorporating some shade loving grasses? Try sedge or ornamental millet in your shaded New England garden.

Deer Resistant Annuals Northeast

Annuals in general are a favorite of deer. They tend to be succulent and tender— not prickly or strong smelling. This fact might make it seem there is no room for annuals in a garden visited by deer, but that isn’t so.

Cosmos, nasturtiums, and marigolds are a few common annuals that deer ignore. Other Northeast annuals that will deter deer include floss flower, heliotrope, larkspur, nicotiana, painted tongue, and spider flower.

By December, some folks want to take a break from the garden, but the truly diehard know that there are still plenty of December tasks to be done when gardening in the Northeast.

Northeast gardening chores continue until the ground has frozen solid and even then, there are things like planning the next season’s garden that can be worked on. The following Northeast regional to-do list will help accomplish December garden tasks that will make the successive growing season even more successful.

Northeast Gardening for the Holidays

The Northeast gets inundated with cold temperatures and snow soon enough, but before the weather has you stuck inside, there are a number of December garden tasks to attend to.

If you have had it with gardening and are more geared up to celebrate the holidays, many of you will be looking for a Christmas tree. If you are cutting or buying a fresh tree, keep it in a cool area for as long as possible and, before purchasing, give the tree a good shake to see how many needles fall. The fresher the tree the less needles will drop.

Some people prefer to get a living tree. Choose a tree that is in a large container or has been wrapped in burlap and has a good-sized root ball.

Spruce up the house by adding festive houseplants, not only poinsettia, but amaryllis, kalanchoe, cyclamen, orchids or other colorful options.

Regional To-Do List for Northeast Gardening

December garden tasks don’t just revolve around the holidays. If you haven’t done so already, now is the time to cover tender perennials with mulch and turn the soil in the veggie garden to uproot over-wintering insects and reduce their numbers next year. Also, if you haven’t done so already, now is a good time to amend the soil with compost and/or lime.

December is a great time to take hardwood cuttings from deciduous trees and shrubs. Bury the cutting in sand in a cold frame or out in the garden for planting in the early spring. Check arborvitae and junipers for bagworms and remove by hand.

Additional December Garden Tasks

When gardening in the Northeast, you may want to remember your feathered friends in December. Clean their bird feeders and fill them up. If you are deterring the deer with fencing, inspect the fencing for any holes and repair them.

Once you are done with outdoor chores, wash the foliage of large leaved houseplants with a light solution of soap and water to clear the pores of dust and grime. Consider putting a humidifier in areas of the home filled with houseplants. The drying air of winter is hard on them and you will breathe better as well.

Stock up on fertilizer, kitty litter, or sand. Use these instead of damaging salt on icy paths and drives.

Most autumn leaves have fallen, mornings are crisp, and the first frost has come and gone, but there’s still plenty of time for Northeast gardening in November. Put on a jacket and head outdoors to take care of your gardening to-do list before the snow flies. Read on for helpful tips on November gardening tasks for the Northeast.

November in the Northeast

• If rain is scarce, continue to water trees and shrubs weekly until the ground freezes. Irrigate your lawn thoroughly, especially if summer has been dry or you’ve allowed the grass to go dormant.
• Cover perennial beds with 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) of straw or mulch after the ground has frozen to protect roots from free-thaw cycles that can push plants out of the soil. Mulch will also protect groundcovers and shrubs. Don’t pile mulch against the plants, as mulch may attract rodents that chew on the stems.
• There’s still time to plant tulips, daffodils, and other spring blooming bulbs if the ground is still workable. Leave healthy perennial stems and seed heads in place until spring to provide shelter and sustenance for birds. Remove and discard any diseased plant matter, don’t put it in your compost bin though.
• If you intend to plant live Christmas trees this holiday season, go ahead and dig the hole now, then put the removed soil in a bucket and store it where the soil won’t freeze. Fill the hole with leaves and cover it with a tarp until you’re ready to plant.
• Place hardware cloth around the base of young trees if rodents like to chew on the bark.
• Clean, sharpen, and oil garden tools and cutting blades before storing them for the winter. Run the gas out of the lawnmower, then service the mower and sharpen the blade.
• Mound soil around the crowns of rose bushes. Tie the canes to stabilize them in the event of hard winds.
• Clean up remaining garden debris. If it’s free of disease and pests, go ahead and toss plant matter on the compost pile, otherwise, it should go in the garbage can.

Winter’s chill is in the air in October but it’s not quite time to put your feet up in front of a roaring fire just yet. Gardening tasks are still in full swing for Northeast gardeners.

What October gardening tasks need to be accomplished? The following regional to-do list for Northeast gardeners will have you prepping the garden for winter and the following spring.

Northeast Gardening in October

In the Northeast, the first expected frost date is rapidly approaching so there’s no time to waste accomplishing October gardening tasks. Some items on your regional to-do list will involve putting the veggie garden to bed, brightening up the landscape for spring, working on the lawn, and generally tidying up before ‘Old Man Winter’ arrives.

Regional To-Do List for Northeast Gardeners

While there’s a lot to accomplish on your to-do list, there are actually a few things you can slack off on, watering being one. There may be more precipitation already so less need to water. That said, don’t stop watering completely. Everything that is still growing needs irrigation. On the subject of irrigation, with freezing temperatures in the near future, it’s a good idea to do or schedule a sprinkler system blow out.

Don’t prune anymore. Pruning sends a signal to the plant that it is time to grow and winter is too close so that’s a no/no. The exception is pruning any dead or damaged branches. Some perennials will be cut back in the spring. However, these should all be cut back in the fall:

• Astilbe
• Bearded iris
• Bee balm
• Catmint
• Columbine
• Daylily
• Gaillardia
• Hosta
• Lilies
• Peony
• Phlox
• Salvia
• Solomon’s seal
• Yarrow

Depending upon the weather, lawn mowing may slack off. With all that extra time, if you haven’t done so already, core aerate the lawn to improve drainage. Wait until November 15th to feed the lawn.

Additional October Gardening Tasks

In the veggie garden, dig up spuds and cure them in a cool, dark room. Leave any carrots, Jerusalem artichokes, leeks, and parsnips in the ground and harvest as needed through the winter. Cover them with straw to protect them from frost.

Another October gardening task has to do with bulbs. October is the time to dig up tender summer bulbs or tubers like canna, begonia, and dahlias. Cut the dahlias back first and wait a week before digging them up. Another bulb task is planting spring bulbs.

Plant trees and shrubs in October. This will give them time to settle in before the long winter months. Mulch and water new plants well. Transplant trees and shrubs after they have lost their leaves.

Clean the garden of dead and dying plants, blooms, etc. and add to the compost pile. Work plenty of compost into your veggie and perennial beds. Cover susceptible, newly planted evergreens from drying winds with burlap bags.

Lastly, if you haven’t done so already, take a soil test. If the test indicates you need to amend with lime, now is the time to do so since it takes three to six months for it to work its magic. Once you have checked off all your October gardening tasks, take some time to enjoy the beauty of the season.

By September in the Northeast, the days are getting shorter and cooler and plant growth is slowing or nearing completion. After a long hot summer, it may be tempting to put your feet up, but there are still plenty of September gardening tasks for the northeast gardener to tackle. The to-do list for fall Northeast gardens waits for no one and lays the foundation for a healthy garden in the spring.

September in the Northeast Garden

Labor Day weekend is often a time for family gatherings and the last chance to enjoy summer weather. However, that doesn’t mean winter is imminent. There will still be plenty of days to get out in your northeast gardens to work on that to-do list for fall.

For one thing, fall crops need to be harvested and then processed for storage. Weeds continue to flourish and must be dealt with, and while rain showers are more often in the forecast, some watering will likely still need to be done.

September in the Northeast is also the time to prep the garden for the next growing season. This might mean amending soil, building new raised beds or paths, and planting or moving flowering perennials, shrubs, or trees.

To-do List for Fall Northeast Gardens

While September in Northeast gardens brings some chores such as pruning and fertilizing to an end, it is also the time to undertake tasks that will lay a solid foundation for next year’s garden. September is an excellent time to do a soil test which will help to determine what, if any, amendments your soil needs.

As you harvest the last of the produce and cut back blooming perennials, if you haven’t already, be sure to save some seeds. Another September task for the Northeast is to order bulbs. If you already have bulbs, it’s time to plant them.

Speaking of flowers, on the fall to-do list is dividing perennials such as peonies, daylilies, irises, and hosta. September also means digging up the tender corms of gladiola, dahlia, and tuberous begonias. Prepare for blooms for the holidays by moving poinsettias in a dark room for at least 16 hours a day. Also, bring the amaryllis inside and place in a cool, dark area.

Additional September Gardening Tasks

September is the time to clean up those bird feeders. Wash well to rid the feeders of mold and mildew. Hummingbird feeders can be cleaned and stored for the next season.

Salvage the last of the tomatoes by removing any blooms from the plants. This will indicate to the plant that it’s time to ripen fruit instead of produce.

Outdoor houseplants should be prepared to be brought back in. Check them for insects first. Once inside, cut back on watering and fertilizing.

The cooler temperatures of September in Northeast gardens are ideal for planting new shrubs and trees, leaving them plenty of time before winter to establish without getting stressed.

Lastly, this month is a great time to start a year-round garden by using a cold frame, adding protection to raised beds, or by building a greenhouse. 

August in the Northeast is all about harvesting and preserving the harvest – freezing, canning, pickling, etc. That doesn’t mean the rest of the garden to-do list can be ignored though, tempting as it may be. In the midst of cooking and picking, August gardening tasks await. Take some time away from the hot kitchen to tackle those Northeast gardening chores.

Northeast Gardening Chores in August

It may seem like it’s about time to slow down on the garden to-do list. After all, it’s been a long summer of babying fruits, veggies, lawns, and other plants but now is not the time to quit. For one thing, it’s still hot, and keeping up on watering is of primary importance.

If you haven’t been doing so all summer, set your mower to a higher length to allow the lawn to stay hydrated. It goes without saying that not only irrigation continues but keeping up on the weeding and deadheading will keep things looking nice. 

Fortunately, or unfortunately, these summer chores are not the only ones to tackle. There are still plenty of August gardening tasks yet to do.

Garden To-do List for August in the Northeast

To keep color going into the fall now is the time to buy and plant mums. August is also a good time to plant perennials, shrubs, and trees. Doing so now will allow the root systems to establish before it freezes.

Stop fertilizing. Late summer fertilizing encourages foliage growth which can then be open to damage caused by sudden freezes. The exception is the annual hanging baskets.

Dig the spuds out as soon as the tops die down. Prune the strawberry runners. Cut back bleeding hearts. August is the time to transplant or divide peonies and fertilize them. Plant autumn crocus.

As the gardening to-do list starts to get crossed off, begin to think about next year. Make notes while things are still blooming. Figure out which plants may need to be moved or divided. Also, order spring bulbs. If you’ve had your amaryllis outside, now is the time to bring them in.

Sow lettuce, greens, carrots, beets, and turnips for a second chance crop. Mulch around the root systems to retain water and keep them cool. Keep an eye out for pests and act immediately to eradicate them. Fill in bare spots in the lawn by sowing mixed grass seed.

Remember, Northeast gardening tasks will come to an end as winter rapidly approaches. Enjoy the time in the garden while you still can.

By July in the Northeast, the gardener might be thinking their work is done…and they would be wrong. The Northeast gardening to-do list is year-round and there are plenty of July garden tasks to get cracking on.

July in the Northeast

By June, pretty much everything that needs to be planted has been and spring bloomers have been pruned back, so it might seem like a good idea to hang up the garden gloves, sip some ice tea and watch the garden unfurl. Not so. There are still lots of July garden tasks to be accomplished.

Weeding, of course, is never-ending, but to minimize having to hand-pull weeds if you haven’t already done so now is the time to mulch. Add a thick 2- to 3-inch (5-7.5 cm.) layer of mulch around your plants. No need to weed first – just lay the layer over top of the weeds. The thick mulch will smother them. Yet, another bonus to mulching is keeping plant roots cool and retaining moisture.

Northeast Gardening To-Do List

Now that the mulching has been accomplished, it’s time to tackle other July garden tasks.

• If you haven’t done so already, now is the time to check on automatic irrigation systems. If you don’t have a sprinkler system, consider installing timers. Also, capture that rare rainstorm by purchasing a rain barrel. On the subject of irrigation, use a soaker hose to slowly and deeply water trees every other week if there is little to no rain.
• Another task on the Northeast gardening to-do list is to prune back climbing roses after the blooms have faded. Pinch your mums back every 10 days or so until the middle of the month. Also, bearded iris should be divided in July in the Northeast.
• Keep flowers blooming by deadheading and fertilizing. Plant gladiolus up until the middle of July. Divide Madonna lilies as soon as they are done blooming. Oriental poppies can only be moved in the summer and July in the Northeast is a good time to do it. Dig up the roots and cut into 2-inch (5 cm) pieces and replant.
• Cut back delphinium when done blooming and give them a dose of complete fertilizer to induce a second bloom. Prune wisteria and deadhead daylilies.
• If yews and hedges need pruning, now is the time to tackle them. After mid-July, abstain from using electric shears and only judiciously prune with hand clippers.
• Fertilize zoysia lawns but wait to fertilize other types of turf until Labor Day.
• Keep tomatoes regularly moist so the plants don’t get blossom end rot and keep an eye out for hornworms.
• Use your herbs! Some herbs get hard and woody if not cut frequently or bloom, which affects the flavor of the herb.
• Thin fruit from trees to foster larger, healthier produce.
• Side dress veggies with a nitrogen rich fertilizer. Harvest mature vegetables. Believe it or not, one July task is to sow veggies for a fall crop. Sow seeds for broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuces, peas, radish, kale, and spinach.
• Keep the compost pile turned and moist and continue to add to it.
• Save your berries! Fertilize and cover blueberries with netting to protect them from birds. Trim runner growth from strawberries so more energy will go into producing berries. Remove the fruiting canes from raspberries after harvest.

And you thought July in the Northeast was going to be a time of relaxation!

In the Northeast, gardeners are thrilled for June to arrive. Although there is a lot of variety in climate from Maine down to Maryland, this entire region finally enters summer and the growing season by June.

Gardening in the Northeast

The states in this region are generally considered to be Connecticut, Rhode Island, Vermont, Massachusetts, Maine, and New Hampshire. While this area may not warm up as quickly as some states, gardening in the Northeast is at full swing in June.

Assuming you have been a good gardener and done the chores in the yard necessary for your region, late spring/early summer is the time to really play. June provides the double hit parade of longer days of sun and increased temperatures.

• June is a good time to feed anything that is already in the ground. Use a time release fertilizer to avoid burning plant roots and give gentle nutrients that will last for several months.
• Stake vines and veggies as needed and deadhead your flowers to encourage more and enhance the appearance of beds and containers.
• Mulch or top dress around vegetables to prevent weeds and conserve moisture.
• It isn't too late to plant in June, even by seed, and your efforts and care will result in a season of glorious flowers and bountiful veggies.

June Planting in the Northeast

If you are wondering what to plant in June in New England, check out your local nurseries, which will have in stock items ready for your zone. June 20th is the start of summer and June planting in the Northeast is all about vegetable gardening for a summer and fall harvest, but it's also a great time to install many bushes and perennials.

You can still plant quick start annuals like zinnias, marigolds, cosmos, sunflowers, nasturtiums, and four o'clocks. Now is a good time to start perennials and biennials from seed. Prepare a bed in a protected spot from blazing sun and sow seed for next year's plants. Now is also a great time to get annuals and start window boxes and hanging baskets. Keep them well watered and you will have color all summer long.

Northeast Planting Guide for June in Zone 4

In northern Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, and New York, you can start moving these transplants outdoors:

• Broccoli
• Brussels sprouts
• Cabbage
• Cauliflower
• Eggplants
• Kale
• Kohlrabi
• Peppers
• Tomatoes

These can be started outside from seed in June:

• Beans
• Cantaloupe
• Chard
• Okra
• Pumpkins
• Squash
• Watermelon

Northeast Gardening and Planting in June in Zone 5

In the southern parts of Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, and New York, as well as Northern Pennsylvania, these transplants are ready to go outside: 

• Broccoli
• Brussels sprouts
• Cabbage
• Cauliflower
• Collard greens
• Eggplant
• Kale
• Kohlrabi
• Peppers
• Tomatoes

Start these seeds outside right now:

• Beans
• Cantaloupe
• Carrots
• Chard
• Corn
• Cucumbers
• Okra
• Southern peas
• Potatoes
• Pumpkin
• Squash
• Watermelon

What to Plant in June in Zone 6

Zone 6 includes much of Connecticut and Massachusetts, parts of lower New York, most of New jersey, and most of southern Pennsylvania. In these areas you can start transplanting:

• Eggplants
• Peppers
• Tomatoes

Direct seed these veggies outside in June:

• Cantaloupe
• Okra
• Pumpkin
• Southern peas
• Squash
• Watermelon

Planting Guide for the Northeast in June in Zone 7

Most of Delaware and Maryland are in zone 7, and you are experiencing very nice, warm weather by June. Most of your planting has already been done for the summer harvest, and you should wait for July or August for most veggies planted for a fall harvest.

• Towards the end of June, you can transplant eggplant, peppers, and tomatoes.
• June in these states is also a good time to direct seed southern peas, watermelon, okra, cantaloupe, squash, and pumpkins.

Spring is short and unpredictable in the Northeast. May weather might feel like summer is right around the corner, but frost is still a possibility in many regions. If you are itching to get outdoors, here are some suggestions for Northeast gardening in May.

Gardening Tasks for The Northeast

Here are some basic things to do in May:

• Plant hardy annuals that can tolerate cool weather or a light frost such as pansies, sweet alyssum, dianthus, or snapdragons. All do well in the ground or in containers.
• Your garden to-do list for May should include plant sales hosted by local gardening groups. You will find some great buys on locally grown plants and in the process, support a local organization in their effort to beautify the community.
• Stake tall perennials such as peonies, false sunflower, asters, or delphinium while they’re still relatively small. When it comes to May gardening tasks, weed removal should be near the top of the list. Weeds are much easier to remove early in the season.
• Prune rose bushes before blooms start to show. Divide summer and fall blooming perennials before they reach 6 inches (15 cm.). Remove faded flowers from spring blooming bulbs, but don’t remove the foliage until it wilts and turns brown.
• Mulch flower beds but wait until the soil is warm. Fertilize the lawn around the end of the month. Unless your area gets a lot of rain, be sure to add watering to your gardening to-do list for May as well.
• May gardening tasks in the veggie garden should include the planting of lettuce, swiss chard, spinach, or other leafy greens that like cool weather. You can also plant beans, carrots, peas, chives, broccoli, or cabbage. If you’ve never planted asparagus, a perennial vegetable, May is a good time to get started. Plant tomatoes and peppers in late May, around Memorial Day.
• Watch for aphids and other pests. Use insecticidal soap or other less toxic controls to keep them in check.
• Visit at least one of the Northeast’s beautiful public gardens, such as Morris Arboretum at the University of Pennsylvania, Wellesley College Botanic Garden, or the Topiary Park in Columbus, Ohio.

With the arrival of warmer temperatures, preparing the garden for spring planting can feel quite chaotic. From seeding to weeding, it is easy to lose focus on the tasks taking precedence over others. April in the Northeast marks planting time for many crops. With so many tasks to keep up with, a gardening to-do list is an excellent way to get ready for the corresponding season.

Northeast Garden Guide

While some April garden tasks are quick and easy, others may require more time and dedication.

April Gardening To-Do List

• Clean garden tools – Cleaning and preparing garden tools for the growing season is essential to beginning April garden tasks. Making sure that tools are clean and in proper working order makes it easier to care for plants and prevents the spread of disease in the garden. So, if you haven’t already done so, get those tools in tip-top shape. Once tools are ready to use, the real work starts as we prepare soil beds and maintain plantings.
• Prep garden beds – In addition to maintaining new plants, which go into the garden soon, you will need to focus on the preparation of garden beds. The removal of weeds from overgrown gardens not only helps keep things tidy but also makes it easier once the soil is ready to be worked. Clear, prepared beds allow us to better visualize and plan garden layouts too.
• Get your soil ready – Early spring soil tests can reveal important information about garden health, including which nutrients may or may not to be necessary. You can then amend the soil as needed.
• Plant cool season crops – Many Northeast garden guides note that April is an ideal time to plant cool-season crops like carrots and lettuce. And if you’ve not already done so, make sure tender crops like tomatoes, beans, or peppers are started indoors, as they’ll be ready to go out within another month or so.
• Get last minute pruning done – April garden tasks also involve the completion of any remaining pruning chores that may have been overlooked. This includes the removal of tree branches to maintain size and taking out any dead stems from flowering shrubs or perennials.
• Give plants a spring feeding – Fertilization can also take place at this time, as the plants begin to burst into life for the coming growing season.
• Be observant – Last, but certainly not least, gardeners will need to begin honing in those observation skills. Though, technically, not a task on the gardening to-do list, April marks a period of change in the garden. You should become vigilant of changes such as insect presence, disease, and other issues.

Proactive growers can better prevent common garden issues that may negatively impact their crops.