You may cry “I have aphids on my oleander” if you see these bugs on your favorite shrubs. These are probably oleander aphids, marigold yellow insects with black legs that attack oleanders, butterfly weed, and milkweed. While great numbers of these aphids can cause serious harm to the host plant, generally the damage is aesthetic. If you want to learn about control of oleander aphids or how to get rid of oleander aphids, read on.

What are These Aphids on My Oleander?

You may see oleanders and aphids together regularly if you live in some southern states, like Florida. When you have oleanders, and aphids attack these shrubs, the odds are great that the insects are oleander aphids. What are oleander aphids? They are bright yellow, sap-sucking insects that can be found in warm regions throughout the world. These aphids probably originated in the Mediterranean, which is also the native country of oleander plants.

Oleander and Aphids

If you have aphids on your oleander, you’ll want to know what these insects are likely to do to the shrubs. Oleander aphids suck up sap from the host plants and produce a sticky substance called honeydew. Honeydew is sugary, and something other insects, such as ants, like to eat. You’ll often see ants living close to aphids and tending to them not unlike shepherds' care for sheep. Honeydew is not attractive on the leaves of oleanders. As it accumulates, unattractive black sooty mold is likely to follow.

How to Get Rid of Oleander Aphids?

The best way to get rid of oleander aphids is through cultural controls. If you reduce irrigation and fertilization, your oleander will produce less of the tender shoots that attract aphids. On smaller plants, you can try pruning out infested shoots. You can also wash off aphids with a hose. Neem oil can help too. One natural way to get control of oleander aphids is to purchase and release their insect enemies. A parasitic wasp is one aphid enemy. It lays its eggs inside an aphid nymph. In time, the wasp larva develops into a wasp inside the aphid. It cuts a hole in the aphid so that it can get out. The aphid’s bodily organs have already been eaten by the wasp, and its empty body is called a mummy. Another great natural predator of aphids is the dependable ladybug.

A native of the Caribbean region, oleander plant caterpillars are an enemy of oleanders in the coastal areas of Florida and other southeastern states. Oleander caterpillar damage is easy to recognize, as these oleander pests eat the tender leaf tissue, leaving the veins intact. While oleander caterpillar damage rarely kills the host plant, it defoliates the oleander and gives the leaves a skeleton-like appearance if not controlled. The damage is largely aesthetic. Read on to learn how to get rid of oleander caterpillars.

Oleander Caterpillar Life Cycle

In the adult stage, oleander plant caterpillars are impossible to miss, with iridescent, bluish green body and wings with bright reddish orange at the tip of the abdomen. The wings, body, antennae, and legs are marked with small, white dots. The adult oleander wasp moth is also known as the polka-dot wasp because of its marking and wasp-like shape. The female oleander caterpillar moth lives only about five days, which is plenty of time to lay clusters of creamy white or yellow eggs on the undersides of tender leaves. As soon as the eggs hatch, the bright orange and black caterpillars begin feeding on the oleander leaves. Once full grown, the caterpillars wrap themselves in silky cocoons. The pupae is often seen nestled into tree bark or under the eaves of buildings. The entire oleander caterpillar life cycle spans a couple of months; one year is ample time for three generations of oleander plant caterpillars.

How to Get Rid of Oleander Caterpillars

Oleander caterpillar control should begin as soon as you see the caterpillars on the leaves. Pick the caterpillars off by hand and drop them in a bucket of soapy water. If the infestation is severe, clip heavily infested leaves and drop them into a plastic garbage bag. Dispose of the infested plant matter carefully to prevent spread of the insects. If all else fails, spray the oleander bush with Bt spray (Bacillus thuringiensis), a natural bacteria that poses no risk to beneficial insects. Chemicals should always be a last resort, as pesticides kill beneficial insects along with the oleander plant caterpillars, creating even larger infestations with no natural enemies to keep the pests in check.

Are Oleander Caterpillars Poisonous to Humans?

Touching oleander caterpillars can result in an itchy, painful skin rash and touching the eyes after contact with the caterpillar can cause inflammation and sensitivity. Wear gloves when working with an infested oleander plant. Wash your hands immediately if your skin comes in contact with the caterpillars. Note: Keep in mind that all parts of oleander plants are also highly toxic.

Oleanders are versatile flowering shrubs frequently grown in warmer climates. They are seen so often that some gardeners take them for granted. However, a lethal disease called oleander leaf scorch is now taking its toll on the oleander population. If you’ve never heard of oleander leaf scorch, you probably have questions. What is oleander leaf scorch? What causes leaf scorch on oleander shrubs? Can you treat it? Read on for all the information you need on this topic.

What is Oleander Leaf Scorch?

Oleander leaf scorch is a disease that kills oleander shrubs. Gardeners first noticed the lethal disease in southern California some 25 years ago. It causes scorched leaves on oleander plants. This disease doesn’t kill the plants immediately, but it does kill them. Experts say that more than 90% of infected trees will die over the next three to five years.

What Causes Leaf Scorch on Oleander?

If you want to know what causes leaf scorch on oleander shrubs, you’ll find there are two culprits. The first one is a strain of bacterium, Xylella fastidiosa. This bacterium is what actually attacks oleander leaves. The bacteria feed on the tissues in oleander plants that conduct water, termed xylem. As the amount of bacteria increases, a plant is not able to conduct liquids. That means it does not have access to water and nutrients. The second culprit is an insect called the glassy-winged sharpshooter. This insect pest sucks the oleander sap, then spreads the lethal bacteria from that shrub to the next.

What are Oleander Leaf Scorch Symptoms?

If you see scorched leaves on oleander plants, look out. Oleander leaf scorch causes symptoms similar to sun scorching, like yellowing and drooping leaves. Over time, the disease spreads from one branch to the next until there are many scorched leaves on the plant. This happens much more quickly when the weather is hot and dry. In time, the plant dies.

How Do You Start Treating Oleander Leaf Scorch?

Unfortunately, treating oleander leaf scorch is not effective. Many oleanders have died or been removed because of this disease. Trimming out the yellowing sections of the oleander may make the shrub look better. However, it is not likely to save the plant since the bacteria has already moved throughout.

Oleander is a sturdy, attractive plant that grows happily with very little attention but, occasionally, problems with oleander plants may occur. If you notice oleander leaves turning yellow, the problem may be leaf scorch, a common cause of problems with oleander plants. Read on to learn more about leaf scorch and other problems that may cause yellowing oleander bushes.

Reasons for Oleander with Yellow Leaves

Treating yellow leaves on oleander starts with pinpointing a cause. Below are the most common reasons for leaf yellowing in oleanders.

Insufficient watering may lead to yellow leaves on oleander

Improper watering, either too much or too little, may be the cause for yellowing oleander bushes. Although oleanders are highly drought tolerant, they benefit from irrigation during long dry spells. However, too much water can harm the plant and may be to blame for an oleander with yellow leaves. If improper watering is the cause, the plant should soon rebound with proper irrigation. If problems with oleander plants continue, the problem is probably due to leaf scorch.

Leaf scorch and yellowing oleander bushes

Oleander leaf scorch was first discovered in southern California, where it quickly decimated oleander bushes. Since that time, the disease has spread to Arizona and is gradually overtaking oleander across much of the southern United States. Leaf scorch is a bacterial disease spread primarily by small, sap-sucking insects known as sharpshooters. The pests introduce the bacteria into the plant’s stem as they feed. When the bacteria grow in the plant’s tissues, flow of water and nutrients is blocked. Symptoms begin with oleander leaves turning yellow and droopy before taking on a scorched, brown appearance. The disease, which may begin on a single branch, spreads quickly in warm weather. The bad news is that the disease is fatal. So far, insecticides have proven to be ineffective and there are no cures for the disease. All varieties of oleander are equally susceptible, and no disease-resistant strains have been developed. Unfortunately, the only recourse for oleander with leaf scorch is to remove the affected plants. Pruning out damaged growth may temporarily slow the disease and improve the appearance of the plant, but in spite of all your best efforts, death usually occurs in three to five years.

Oleanders (Nerium oleander) are large, mounded shrubs with beautiful blossoms. They are easy care plants in warmer climates, both heat and drought tolerant. However, oleanders can be severely damaged or even killed by winter cold. Even winter hardy oleander bushes can die if the temperatures drop precipitously. You can forestall damage to your plants if you learn how to overwinter an oleander. Read on for tips on oleander winter care.

Care of Oleanders in Winter

Oleanders are big shrubs. Most grow to 12 feet (4 m.) tall and 12 feet (4 m.) wide, and some shoot up to over 20 feet 6 m.). This doesn’t mean that they can survive cold winters without help though. Winterizing oleander plants is possible, wherever you live.

Oleanders are hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 9 through 10. This means that they can withstand the cold winter weather in those zones.

Some winter hardy oleander bushes, like the cultivar ‘Calypso,’ can thrive in USDA zone 8. However, in zone 8, care of oleanders in winter is more difficult. You’ll have to take extra steps to help your shrub survive.

Oleander winter care in zone 8 begins in fall. When you start winterizing oleander plants in this zone you need to cut back the shrub in autumn by half. Do this while the temperature is not yet too cold.

Then layer on some 4 inches (10 cm.) of organic mulch over the root area of the plants and cover the remaining foliage with a sheet when the temperatures dip below zero. Watering once a week in winter helps keep the plant from freezing.

How to Overwinter an Oleander

If you live in even colder zones, winterizing oleander plants means bringing them inside in the coldest months. Start by cutting the bush back severely, by some two-thirds, before cold weather arrives.

Then dig carefully around the roots of the shrub. When you can free the roots, pot them up in a container with good soil and drainage. Move the pot into a sheltered area that still gets sun, like a garage with a window or porch. Give the same treatment to plants already growing in pots.

Bringing the outdoors inside is often a temptation as we try to naturalize our indoor environments and admit some of nature's beauty into our homes. Bringing oleander indoors may seem like a good idea, but the bushes can get quite large and need full sun. Will they ever bloom inside and will they thrive with interior conditions? We'll answer these questions and more in the following article.

Tips for Bringing Oleander Indoors

Oleander bushes have been popular container plants since the 1800's. In the north, they are not terribly hardy and should be potted into containers and overwintered in a sheltered location or indoors for winter. If you are a northern gardener, overwintering oleander indoors may be the key to enjoying the festive blooms and intoxicating scent. There are a few things to note, however, regarding oleander care in winter. Special watering and site requirements will entice your plant to produce blooms when the time arrives.

Oleanders are hardy to 35 degrees F. (2 C.), but such cool temperatures can damage the next season's buds. If you live in an area that only occasionally experiences such cool temperatures, spread mulch around the root zone to protect the plant.

If cold temperatures are consistently part of your winter weather, try overwintering oleander indoors. Choose a pot that is large enough to encompass the entire root mass. It can be difficult to remove an established oleander, so if you expect to be overwintering the plant annually, simply keep it in its container year-round.

Set the plant out in late spring when the air is warm enough and enjoy it as a patio plant through summer. After it blooms in fall, prune the plant and bring it indoors for winter.

Oleander Winter Care

Oleander care in winter is easy, but first you should do some preparation to make the plant more comfortable. Start by pruning after the plant has flowered. Cut flowered shoots by half and tip prune others. It is not necessary to prune the plant every year, but better flower yields will result, as well as a more compact plant. It also makes it easier to keep a container plant in a smaller size.

Watering is an important component of oleander care in winter. Keep your plant fairly dry and in a cool (but not freezing) location from November to February. After February, gradually increase water and light but resist fertilizing this early.

Once outdoor temperatures are warm enough, feed your oleander and begin to reintroduce it to the outdoors gradually. Overtime increase water, light, and outside exposure time until you can leave the container outside permanently. This will prevent shock that results from the changed environment.

Oleander Dormancy

Like many plants, oleanders experience a resting period in winter. Cool fall temperatures encourage it to drop leaves and slow its growth. Sunlight and warmth trigger the cessation of oleander dormancy.

You can encourage the plant to start growing by increasing water in spring and fertilizing it with a 30-10-10 liquid plant food. Once it is warm enough to move the container outside, use a 20-20-20 balanced plant food to enhance its growth. If you are not seeing any buds, try a bloom booster food once to promote the formation of flowers.

Avoid repotting your container oleander until after it has bloomed. Repotting should be done in fall as a part of regular oleander winter care.

While oleander can grow into a very large, dense plant with time, creating a long oleander hedge can become expensive. Or perhaps a friend of yours has a beautiful oleander plant that you can't seem to find anywhere else. If you have found yourself, for any reason, wondering “Can I grow oleander from cuttings?”, continue reading to find out how to propagate oleander cuttings.

Oleander Plant Cuttings

Before doing anything with oleander, it is very important to know that it is a poisonous plant. Be sure to wear rubber gloves, long sleeves, and safety glasses when handling oleander. Keep all oleander plant cuttings out of reach from children and pets. Despite its toxicity, oleander is a much beloved and commonly grown plant in zones 8-11. The best way to quickly propagate it is from cuttings. There are two options for growing oleander from cuttings.

• You can take oleander plant cuttings from the new tip growth, or greenwood, at any time throughout the growing season.
• In the fall, you can also take semi-woody oleander plant cuttings from that season’s growth just maturing into woody branches.

Most oleander growers say cuttings from greenwood root quicker, though.

Rooting Oleander Cuttings

While wearing protective gear, take cuttings about 6-8 inches (15-20.5 cm.) long from the oleander. Be sure to cut just below a leaf node. Cut all the lower leaves off your oleander cutting, leaving only the tip growth. You can either place these oleander cuttings in a mixture of water and rooting stimulant until you are ready to plant or simply plant them right away. Plant oleander cuttings in rich, organic potting material, like compost. I like to make a few nicks around the lower part of the cutting to promote root growth. Dip your oleander plant cuttings into a rooting hormone powder and then simply plant into a pot with potting mix. To root oleander cuttings a little faster, put a seedling heat mat underneath the pot and cutting. You can also create a humid “greenhouse” by placing a clear plastic bag over the pot. This will trap in the moisture and humidity that oleander needs to develop roots. Greenwood oleander plant cuttings started in the spring will usually be ready to plant outdoors in the fall. Semi-woody oleander plant cuttings taken in the fall will be ready to plant outdoors in spring.

As a landscaper, I am often asked why certain shrubs aren’t blooming. I'm often told it bloomed beautifully for years then just stopped or it just never flowered after planting it. There’s no magical solution to this problem. Usually, it’s a matter of location, soil condition, or plant care. Read more to learn what you can do for non-blooming oleander shrubs.

No Flowers on Oleander

When you have no flowers on oleander, you have to question why. Oleanders are prized and beloved for their prolific blooms. If your oleander will not bloom, take a good look at its location.

• As other plants grow up around oleander, they may have started to block out the sun. Oleanders need full sun to bloom properly.
• Oleanders can have large root structures, if low-growing plants have grown too dense around the oleander shrub, they can compete for nutrients, causing weak or no blooms.
• The growth of trees and undergrowth around oleander can also compete for water. While mature oleander shrubs are drought-tolerant, all oleanders need adequate water during their bloom time, or the oleander will not bloom. From early summer to fall, water your oleander well once a week. A stressed oleander will not bloom.

Non-blooming oleander shrubs used as a hedge could be absorbing too much nitrogen from lawn fertilizer runoff. High nitrogen fertilizers promote growth and vigor mostly in the leaves, branches, and stems of plants, not the blooms or roots. Oleander hedges also may have very few or no flowers if they are trimmed too often.

What to Do When Oleander Will Not Bloom

If you have no flowers on your oleander, first make sure it's getting adequate light and water. Trim back overhanging trees and weed around the plant base. Then trim the plant back by about ½ to promote new growth. Oleander flowers on new wood. Thin out the plant by removing dead and crowded branches. Generally, pruning of oleander should be done once a year in the fall. When pruning oleander, always wear protective gear, as oleander is poisonous. Wash your hands and garden tools immediately, and do not burn oleander trimmings. You can also give your non-flowering oleander shrubs a dose of bloom boosting fertilizer. These can range from 10-30-20 to 0-52-30 and are lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium for bloom development. A bloom boosting fertilizer should not be used too often though. Use a well-balanced 10-10-10 or 14-14-14 as a regular fertilizer in spring and fall.

A favorite of warm climate gardeners, Oleander (Nerium oleander) is a hardy evergreen that produces masses of big, sweet-smelling blooms throughout summer and autumn. Oleander is a tough plant that blooms even in drought and punishing heat but, unfortunately, the shrub is sometimes preyed upon by a few common oleander pests. Read on to learn what you can do about oleander plant pests.

Caterpillar Pests of Oleander

Of all the pests of oleander, oleander caterpillar is the most damaging. Oleander caterpillar is the immature stage of the polka dot moth, also known as the wasp moth. The pests, which tend to feed in groups, chew small holes between the leaf veins, and, in severe cases, can completely strip the shrub, removing all of its leaves and small stems. Although the damage is unsightly, an established plant can usually survive the onslaught. However, damage by oleander caterpillars can weaken the plant and make it more susceptible to other pests of oleander. The good news is that the caterpillars – bright orangish red with prominent black tufts – are easy to spot. They are large, measuring up to 2 inches (5 cm.) in length. The safest and most effective way of controlling oleander caterpillars is to simply pick the pests off by hand, then drop them in a bucket of soapy water. If the infestation is severe and manual control measures don’t work, the next step may be the application of bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), a biological control that will kill the caterpillars without harming butterflies and other beneficial insects. Permethrin-based products are also effective. However, control may require repeated applications of Bt or permethrin. If all else fails, a systemic insecticide may be necessary. However, chemicals should always be a last resort.

Other Common Oleander Pests

Oleander is sometimes bothered by scale insects, including armored scales and soft scales. Armored scales are tiny, sucking insects protected by a flat, hard covering. If you remove the covering, the insect will remain on the plant. Soft scales are similar, but the tiny bugs are covered by a larger, more rounded cover. Unlike armored scale, soft scale is attached to the pest. Aphids are very common oleander plant pests that pierce tender plant parts and suck out the sweet juices. Although you might find one or two aphids on a leaf, serious infestations consist of masses of pests, often easily spotted on the underside of leaves. Mealybugs are yet another tiny pest that harms oleander by sucking out the fluids. The pests, which tend to gather in large numbers, are evidenced by their protective covering – sticky, cottony masses seen primarily on stems or leaf joints. Knowing how to get rid of insects on oleander like scale, aphids, and mealybugs is important. While these common oleander pests generally won’t kill a healthy plant, a large infestation can cause stunted growth and yellowing leaves that may drop prematurely. Beneficial insects such as tiny parasitic wasps, lady beetles, and lacewings help keep scale, aphids, and mealybugs in check. This is why the use of insecticides is a very bad idea: the poison kills the beneficial insects along with the pests. Without the beneficial insects, the pests only come back stronger, more abundant, and increasingly difficult to control. Treating oleander insects such as these is usually relatively easy by using horticultural oil during the plant’s dormant season, or soon after the pests become active. You can also use an insecticidal soap or neem oil spray. Regular applications may be required until you gain the upper hand. A systemic insecticide may be necessary if other control measures fail to control a severe infestation. Keep in mind that a healthy, well-cared-for plant is always more pest-resistant. Water, fertilize, and prune as needed.

Oleanders (Nerium oleander) accept severe pruning. If you move into a house with an unruly, overgrown oleander bush in the back yard, don’t despair. Rejuvenating overgrown oleanders is largely a matter of pruning and patience. Read on for information about rejuvenation pruning of oleander and when to prune oleanders to rejuvenate them.

Pruning an Overgrown Oleander

The good news is that you can do rejuvenation pruning of oleanders and get old, overgrown plants back into shape. You’ll have to evaluate the health of the oleander shrub and determine if it can withstand drastic pruning all at one time. The problem with one severe pruning is that it can induce excess foliage growth and encourage basal sprouting. If the plant is in fragile health, its vigor can be reduced and a very weak plant may even die. When you consider pruning an overgrown oleander severely, you may be better off to do it little by little, over a number of years. When you are rejuvenating overgrown oleanders over three years, you do about one-third of the requisite thinning each year.

How to Trim Overgrown Oleander Shrubs

Generally, you’ll want to keep a shrub’s natural shape when you start pruning, even when you are pruning an overgrown oleander. The oleander’s natural shape – a clumping-type shape – is almost always more attractive in oleander hedges and screens. Here are tips for how to trim overgrown oleander shrubs over three years:

• The first year, snip one-third of all mature stems to the ground.
• The second year you are rejuvenating overgrown oleanders, trim half of the remaining mature stems to the ground, and shorten the long shoots resulting from the prior year’s growth.
• The third year, trim back the remaining older stems to a few inches (8 cm.), and continue heading back new shoots.

When to Prune Oleanders

Generally, the time to prune most spring flowering shrubs is late summer or autumn, or just after blooming. This gives the plants a chance to develop the new growth on which next season's blossoms will grow. However, summer flowering shrubs, like oleander, should be pruned in late winter or spring. Don’t prune in fall or mid-winter since this encourages frost-sensitive new growth.

Oleander is a beautiful, warm weather perennial from the Mediterranean that produces large amounts of blossoms throughout the summer. Oleander is often propagated from cuttings, but you can just as easily grow oleander from seeds. It takes longer and is a bit more involved, but oleander seed propagation usually has a very high success rate. Keep reading to learn more about collecting oleander seeds and how to grow oleander from seeds.

Oleander Seed Propagation

After oleander has bloomed, it produces seed pods (collecting oleander seeds is easy, but the plant is toxic and can irritate your skin if you touch it. Make sure to wear gloves when collecting oleander seeds or handling your plant in any way). As time goes on, these seeds should dry and split open naturally, revealing a bunch of fluffy, feathery things. Attached to these feathers are little brown seeds, which you can separate by rubbing against a piece of screen or simply by picking them out by hand. When planting oleander seeds, it’s important to pay attention to temperature. Oleanders can’t survive outdoors in temperatures below freezing. If you live in an area that does not experience frost, you can plant your seeds at any time and transplant the seedlings outdoors as soon as they’re big enough. If you do experience frost, you won’t be able to move them outside until after the last danger of frost, so you may want to wait until early spring to plant your seeds.

How to Grow Oleander from Seeds

When planting oleander seeds, fill small pots or a seed tray with peat. Moisten the top couple inches (5 cm.) of the peat, then press the seeds into the top of it-- don’t cover the seeds but do cover the pots with plastic wrap and place them in a warm place, around 68 degrees F. (20 C.) under grow lights. Spray the peat occasionally to keep it from drying out. The seeds will be slow to germinate-- they often take one month but may take as long as three months. Once the seeds sprout, remove the plastic wrap. When the seedlings have a few sets of true leaves, you can transplant them either to your garden bed (if you live in a warm climate) or a larger pot if you live in a cool climate.

Of all the things that can bother your plants, insect pests have to be one of the most insidious. Not only are they small and hard to spot but their activities are often conducted under leaves, in soil, or at night when they can't be detected. Oleander wasp moth larvae are one of these little devils. Learning the oleander caterpillar lifecycle and preferred feeding areas can help you identify the insect and squash it like a bug.

Wasp Moth Identification

Oleander wasp moths are quite striking insects and wasp moth identification is easy. They are deep blue with white polka dots and a fiery red abdomen, lending them the name Uncle Sam's moth. These patriotic insects fly about during the day, making them easier to define than many other moths. The adults aren't the source of drama, however. It is their larvae whose preferred feeding ground is oleander. The moths are easy to see with their daytime flight pattern and bright, neon blue bodies and flirtatious, orangey red rear ends. If you see them flitting about your oleander, you might want to get some sticky traps, as they are likely getting ready to lay eggs on the underside of your bush. Wasp moths are found in Florida and coastal southeastern states. The fine, tiny eggs are creamy yellow but, eventually, the larvae hatch and begin defoliating your plant. Larvae are caterpillars with orange day-glow skin and thick tufts of black spines. The larvae tend to hang out in groups, blissfully munching on oleander leaves. Adults prefer to find their nectar in lantana, beggarticks, and several other flowering perennials.

Recognizing Oleander Moth Damage

While oleander caterpillars prefer the bush of their name, they will also attack desert rose plants. The devastation is easy to see. The larvae start on younger, new foliage and skeletonize it, leaving webs of veins hanging forlornly from the stems. If you don't act quickly, the pests can remove all the foliage from your oleander. Feeding on the poisonous plant gives the larvae a level of toxicity that many predators seem to avoid. In the later instars of the oleander caterpillar lifecycle, the larvae become solitary diners and have huge appetites in preparation for pupation. Oleander moth damage will likely not kill your plant the first year, but repeated mistreatment will weaken the oleander and open it to other stresses, diseases, and pests.

Treating for Spotted Oleander Wasp Moths

Quick and decisive control is necessary to prevent further oleander moth damage. In most cases, cutting off the damaged foliage and along with it, the caterpillars, and disposing of it can minimize much of the pest population. Bacillus thuringiensis is a natural microbe that has been shown to be effective against wasp moth larvae as well as many other pests. Watch for natural enemies and place them in the bush. These include:

• tachinid flies
• wasps
• stink bugs
• fire ants

In all cases, wear gloves when handling the oleander, as the sap is very poisonous. There are several insecticides listed for use, but caution should be exercised when using pesticides in the garden, as they can also kill beneficial insects.

With leathery green leaves and pink, white, yellow, or red flowers, oleander certainly qualifies as an ornamental, worthy of your backyard or garden. It is an evergreen and can grow to 25 feet (8 m.) tall. If the site you planted oleanders isn’t working out, questions might arise about transplanting oleanders. How to transplant an oleander bush? When to move an oleander? Will transplanting oleanders kill them? Read on for information about the ins and outs of moving oleander shrubs.

Oleander Transplanting

Gardeners choose to plant oleander for its showy blossoms and easy-going ways. It’s a tolerant, forgiving shrub, accepting many different types of soil and exposition. It is drought tolerant but will drink a lot if given a choice. Transplanting oleanders is also an easy, uneventful process. It’s not difficult to learn how to transplant an oleander bush.

When to Move an Oleander

Don’t undertake a transplant in summer. Moving oleander shrubs is easiest on the plant if you do it in November. The cooling temperatures make the process less stressful for the shrub.

How to Transplant an Oleander Bush

Moving oleander shrubs is a matter of using common sense and a shovel at the same time. The first step in oleander transplanting is to give the shrub a long drink of water. Do this 48 hours before you intend to move it. While you are doing the transplant, keep in mind that oleander leaves can irritate your skin. Pull on garden gloves, then tie up the lower branches of the shrubs to make sure they don’t get snapped in the process. Before you begin moving oleander shrubs, prepare a new planting hole for each transplant. Remove all weeds from the new area and dig a planting hole 12 or 15 inches (31-38 cm.) deep and about twice that wide. Here’s how to transplant an oleander shrub. Shovel around the shrub, digging a trench the same depth as the planting hole. Work the roots free, then lift the plant’s root ball from the soil. Trim any damaged roots, then place the root ball in its new hole at the same level it grew previously. The next step in oleander transplanting is to fill the hole around the root ball about halfway with the soil you removed. Next, add water to settle the soil. Finish filling up the hole with dirt and then water again. Add 3 inches (8 cm.) of mulch over the root area, keeping it at least 4 inches (10 cm.) from the plant’s trunk. Release the lower branches. Water regularly for the plant’s first year in its new site.

The oleander is a Mediterranean plant that’s been popular throughout Europe for hundreds of years. It has a following in the southern United States and it’s starting to take hold in the north too. It’s a perennial plant that can’t tolerate freezing temperatures, so growing oleander in containers is the only way to go in a lot of climates. Keep reading to learn more about oleander container gardening and how to grow oleander in pots.

Growing Oleander in Containers

The fact that oleander is so popular throughout Europe-- where in most parts it can’t survive the winter-- should give you a clue to how easy it is to grow in a container. In fact, oleander is just easy to grow in general. When growing oleander in containers, it’s important to give them plenty of sun and adequate water. Although they can handle drought conditions when planted in the ground, container grown oleanders should be watered frequently. They will survive in some shade, but they won’t produce blossoms as spectacularly as in full sun. Other than that, oleander container care is very simple. Feed your plants with a simple fertilizer every other week from spring until late summer. Use a high potassium fertilizer in high summer to ensure the best possible blooming season. When temperatures start falling in late summer, bring your container grown oleanders indoors. If your plant has gotten too large over the course of the summer, it’s okay to prune it back so it can fit indoors more comfortably. You can even root the cuttings you’ve taken during pruning to propagate new plants (Just be aware that oleander is toxic and can irritate the skin. Always wear gloves when pruning!). Keep your plants in a cool garage or basement that won’t go below freezing during the winter. In the spring, when all danger of frost has passed, start moving your plants outside gradually. Leave them outside for one hour the first day, then an additional hour every day after that for a week. Start your plant out in partial shade, then move it to full sun once it’s had a few days to adjust to the sunlight.

Gardeners in warm climates often rely on oleander in the landscape, and for good reason; this nearly foolproof evergreen shrub is available in a tremendous variety of shapes, sizes, adaptability, and flower color. However, it’s important to be knowledgeable of oleander toxicity and the potential for oleander poisoning before you plant. Read on to learn the specifics.

Oleander Toxicity

Is oleander poisonous? Unfortunately, oleander in the landscape is considered to be highly toxic whether the plant is fresh or dried. The good news is that there have been very few reports of human death due to oleander toxicity, probably due to the plant’s vile taste, says the University of Wisconsin’s BioWeb. The bad news, according to UW, is that many animals, including dogs, cats, cows, horses, and even birds have succumbed to oleander poisoning. Ingestion of even a small amount can cause serious illness or death.

What Parts of Oleander are Toxic?

The National Institute of Health reports that all parts of the oleander plant are toxic and can cause severe illness or death, including the leaves, flowers, twigs, and stems. The plant is so poisonous that even drinking water from a vase holding a bloom can cause a severe reaction. The gummy sap can cause irritation when it comes in contact with the skin, and even smoke from burning the plant can cause severe adverse reactions. Symptoms of oleander poisoning include:

• Blurred vision
• Stomach pain, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea
• Low blood pressure
• Irregular heartbeat
• Weakness and lethargy
• Depression
• Headache
• Tremors
• Dizziness and disorientation
• Sleepiness
• Fainting
• Confusion

According to the National Institute of Health, getting medical help quickly increases the chance of full recovery. Never induce vomiting unless advised to do so by a medical professional. If you suspect a person has ingested oleander, call the National Poison Control Center at 1-800-222-1222, a free service. If you’re concerned about livestock or a pet, contact your veterinarian immediately.

Oleander plants are drought tolerant, old-fashioned, southern garden gems. These toxic beauties produce breathtaking floral displays and are easy to maintain. There are several possible reasons for an oleander dropping leaves. If leaf drop is combined with yellowing, damaged foliage, signs of insects, or other issues, it is easier to narrow down the causes. Cultural conditions, pests, disease, and even herbicide drift can all cause oleander leaf drop. Read on for some possible causes and solutions to leaf drop on oleander.

Cultural Causes of Oleander Leaf Drop

Oleanders are more common in warm regions but can withstand winters in temperate zones. They are hardy to 35 degrees F. (2 C.) and have remarkable drought tolerance once established. The best blooms come from plants in full sun and well-drained soil with average water application. If you are providing these conditions and still wondering, "why is my oleander losing leaves?" we may be able to provide some answers. Too much water and too little water can cause yellowing leaves and leaf drop. In the summer, water the bushes one to two times per week, deeply. Make sure your plant is in well-draining soil. Soggy roots can be a cause of leaf drop on oleander. Oleanders don't need a lot of fertilizer, but in poor soils or in containers where nutrients are limited, apply a balanced food in spring to perk up your plants. Oleanders have extensive root masses but when planted with other competitive plants they can begin to get sickly, and foliage can suffer. Move the bushes if they are sited too close to a large tree or in an area with binding, thick growth at the root zone.

Oleander Dropping Yellow Leaves from Pests

One of the most common causes of many plant ills is insect pests. If you see your oleander dropping yellow leaves, it could be a sign of a pest invasion. These tiny invaders can do a lot of damage with their feeding activity. Sucking insects are particularly bad, and they are most active in hot weather. A species of aphid and one of scale are particular to oleander. If you can't spot the aphids, look for sticky honeydew or sooty mildew on the leaves. Both are a sign of their presence, as are ants, who feed on the sweet honeydew. Heavy infestations can be blasted off with water or you can use a horticultural oil spray. Scale will appear as whitish bumps on the stems of the plant and can also be combated with horticultural oil applied three times over the course of six weeks.

Oleander Leaf Scorch

Oleanders are quite trouble free in most cases, but there is a serious disease that affects plants (mainly in California). Oleander leaf scorch is caused by Xylella fastidiosa bacteria. This disease is primarily caused by insects called glassy winged sharpshooters and other species in the group. The effects can be devastating. It starts by causing a blockage of the water and nutrients to the roots. The results are gradually yellowing leaves, which eventually die and drop off. The disease has no cure, but pruning off the affected areas can slow the disease and help prevent it from spreading to neighboring oleanders. Destroy the infected plant parts. Do not put them in your compost pile. Sadly, over time you will lose your oleander, but good care and removal of infected material can prolong the life of the plant.

Maybe you’re tired of seeing that crazy neighbor who mows his lawn in a speedo, or maybe you just want to make your yard feel like a cozy, sacred space miles away from the neighbors in general. Either way, an oleander hedge might be exactly what you need. Continue reading to learn about planting oleander as a privacy hedge.

Oleander Bushes for Privacy

Oleander, Nerium oleander, is a tall, bushy evergreen shrub in zones 8 through 10. Growing 3 to 20 feet (6-9 m.) tall depending on the variety. Oleander’s dense, upright growth makes it an excellent screening plant. As a tidy hedge or privacy wall, oleander is tolerant of salt, pollution, and drought. Add in the beautiful, fragrant clusters of blooms and oleander sounds too good to be true. There is a downfall, however. Oleander is toxic to humans and animals if eaten.

Using Oleander as Hedges

The first step to planting oleander as a hedge is to decide what kind of hedge you want so that you can select the right variety of oleander. For a tall, natural privacy hedge or windbreak, use tall varieties of oleander with prolific blooms. If you just want a low growing formal hedge, look for dwarf varieties. A formal oleander hedge will require trimming two to three times a year. Though oleander blooms on new wood, you will end up with fewer flowers on a neatly groomed oleander hedge. Oleander hedge spacing should be at least 4 feet (1 m.) apart. This plant’s quick growth rate will fill in the gaps soon enough. Although oleander is drought tolerant when established, water it regularly during the first season. Oleander tends to grow in poor conditions where other plants struggle and require very little fertilizer. When planting, however, use a low dose of root stimulant and then only fertilize in spring. Note: reconsider using oleander as a hedge if you have small children or pets.

Oleander produces attractive flowers and fuss-free foliage but sometimes it is simply too tenacious and becomes invasive or even poses a danger to your children or pets with its toxic foliage. Removing oleander bushes is easier said than done, however, as they develop a huge root system, numerous vigorous suckers and entrench themselves firmly in their garden home. Speedy growth and constant grooming are other reasons for getting rid of oleander plants but the chore isn't for the faint of heart. Read on for some tips on how to get rid of oleanders with success.

Oleander Root System

While many of us may know oleander as an attractive ornamental bush, there are a few of us that curse the day we started growing the vigorous plants. Oleander can take over an area, and their poisonous nature makes them dangerous with young children and pets around the home environment. Often, removing oleander bushes is the only safe decision when young people and animals can be potentially affected. However, oleander has the potential to return through left behind roots or suckers. Permanent removal of oleander often requires chemical intervention or professional gardening tools. Oleander bushes form extensive root systems after they have matured and become established. The oleander root system is tough and can grow amongst rocks and other obstacles, making them perfect foundation plants or specimens along the drive. However, once the root system is entrenched in any underground objects, it may take even more than a crowbar to remove them. Gardeners have reported using trucks to pull out stubborn stumps and roots, as well as chemical attacks to simply kill roots. Bleach, glyphosate and other herbicides are often cited as useful, but it is important to consider what these substances do to the soil and water table. Getting rid of the entire oleander root system and any suckers can also be done with brute force and some specialized tools.

How to Get Rid of Oleanders

Getting rid of oleander plants without using chemicals takes dedication and perseverance. You will need to dig around and under the entire bush. Oftentimes, it is easier if you simply cut back all the limbs and stems so you can get a good grip on the stump and root system. Vigorous roots may be too entrenched to simply dig out, so you should have on hand a pry bar, root saw and an extra set of hands. There are even stories of truck bumpers being pulled off in attempt to remove the stump and roots of an oleander. If you fail to get all the roots, new shoots will occasionally appear, but these are easy to deal with by vigilant cutting. Slow and steady wins the race, and patience will pay off with consistent shoot removal that will eventually sap the strength of the roots. Suppose you have done the slow, patient removal method and your oleander still sends out shoots that are becoming small trees before you can cut them down. Enter the word frustrated. Frustrated people do interesting things. Some of the ideas bantered about for oleander bush removal include:

• painting the cut ends with brush killer
• pouring bleach onto the root zone
• using fire to burn the roots

Each suggestion is potentially worse than the last, as far as potential side effects go. You can hire a tree removal service to grind the stump, which is costly, but effective and safe. If you wish to use chemicals, get a good stump remover and apply it directly into holes drilled into the stump. Drill 4 holes and apply 4 to 6 ounces (124 to 186 gr.) of the stump remover product. It can take 6 weeks or more for the stump to begin to disintegrate. This method of getting rid of oleander plants is toxic, but when properly applied, it is targeted and should cause no harm to neighboring shrubs and plants. Note: Any recommendations pertaining to the use of chemicals are for informational purposes only. Specific brand names or commercial products or services do not imply endorsement. Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and more environmentally friendly

Oleander (Nerium oleander) is an evergreen shrub grown for its attractive leaves and abundant, whorled flowers. Some types of oleander shrubs can be pruned into small trees, but their natural growth pattern produces a mound of foliage as wide as it is tall. Many varieties of oleander plants are available in commerce. This means that you can select the types of oleander shrubs with the mature height and blossom color that work best in your backyard. Read on for information about oleander varieties.

Different Kinds of Oleander Plants

Oleanders look something like olive trees with blossoms. They can grow from 3 to 20 feet (1-6 m.) tall and from 3 to 10 feet (1-3 m.) wide. The blossoms are fragrant and different kinds of oleander plants produce different color flowers. All oleander plant types are relatively low maintenance, however, and the shrubs are popular with gardeners in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11.

Oleander Varieties

Many oleander varieties are cultivars, varieties developed for special characteristics. Currently, you can buy more than 50 different oleander plant types for your garden.

• One of the popular oleander plant types is the oleander cultivar 'Hardy Pink.' It rises to 15 feet (5 m.) tall and expands to 10 feet (3 m.) wide, offering pretty pink blossoms all summer long.
• If you like double flowers, you might try 'Mrs. Lucille Hutchings,' one of the larger oleander varieties. It grows to 20 feet (6 m.) tall and produces peach-hued flowers.
• Another one of the tall types of oleander shrubs is ‘Tangier,’ a cultivar that grows to 20 feet (6 m.) tall, with pale pink blossoms.
• 'Pink Beauty' is yet another of the tall oleander plant types. It grows to 20 feet (6 m.) tall and bears lovely, large pink flowers that have little fragrance.
• For white blossoms, try 'Album' cultivar. It grows to 18 feet (5.5 m.) tall in USDA zones 10 and 11.

Dwarf Varieties of Oleander Plants

If you like the idea of oleanders but the size seems too big for your garden, take a look at dwarf varieties of oleander plants. These can stay as short as 3 or 4 feet (1 m.). A few dwarf oleander plant types to try are:

• ‘Petite Salmon’ and ‘Petite Pink,’ which naturally top out at 4 feet (1 m.).
• ‘Algiers,’ a dwarf variety with dark red flowers, can get between 5 and 8 feet (1.5-2 m.) tall.

Oleander (Nerium oleander) is a prolifically blooming shrub that brightens up the landscape in the warm climates of USDA plant hardiness zones 8 through 10. Although the plant is hardy and adaptable, it can develop various problems, including oleander leaf curl. If your oleander leaves are curling, it’s time to troubleshoot some possible reasons. Read on for suggestions.

Leaf Curl on Oleander

When it comes to troubleshooting reasons for leaf curl on oleander, it’s important to start with the basics. For example, improper watering may be the culprit. During warm weather, oleander should be watered any time rainfall is less than an inch (2.5 cm.) per week. As a general rule of thumb, the shrub benefits from a deep watering once every three or four days. Avoid frequent, shallow watering, which encourages weak, shallow roots. On the other hand, don’t overwater, as poor drainage or soggy soil can also cause oleander leaf curl. Well-drained soil is also a must for healthy oleander plants. Additionally, a 2 to 3 inch (5 to 7.6 cm.) layer of mulch helps keep the soil evenly moist. Note: An unexpected cold snap can cause oleander problems, including oleander leaf curl.

Additional Oleander Leaf Curl Issues

Problems with curling oleander leaves may be sue to leaf scorch or insect pests.

Oleander Wilt Leaf Scorch

Oleanders tends to be relatively disease-resistant, but oleander leaf scorch is a widespread problem in some areas. In fact, the disease is so rampant in certain locales that gardeners are advised not to grow the shrub at all. Oleander wilt leaf scorch is caused by a bacterium that prevents the plant from effectively conducting water. There is no cure for the disease, which is evidenced by leaves that turn yellow and droopy before dying. Although oleander leaf scorch shows up on one part of the shrub, it usually travels to the roots, then back up through the entire plant. Removal of the plant is the only recourse.

Oleander Leaves are Curling from Pests

If you’ve resolved any watering problem and you’ve determined the problem isn’t oleander leaf scorch, be on the lookout for bugs, as certain pests can cause oleander leaf curl. Look closely for aphids, scale, or mealybugs. All three are relatively easy to control with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. However, don’t spray the plant on hot days or when the sun is directly on the leaves, as you may do more harm than good.

Oleanders are hardy trees suited to the southern United States, that once established require very little care and are remarkably drought tolerant. They are not only relatively carefree but produce aromatic blossoms in a slew of colors set off by their deep green, large, leathery leaves. How about watering oleander? Since they are drought tolerant, how often do you need to water oleander bushes? Read on to learn more.

Oleander Watering Requirements

Oleanders grow anywhere from 6 to 12 feet (2-4 m.) tall and wide and some up to 20 feet (6 m.) tall. They are suited to the west coast, southern states, Florida, and Texas. As mentioned, they tolerate dry conditions as well as wind and salty or marshy soils. They bloom from summer through to fall, punctuating the landscape with their colorful blossoms and heavenly scent. They are cold hardy down to 15 to 20 degrees F. (-6 to -9 C.), although there will be some damage at those temps. Luckily, oleander will generally bounce back from any frost damage. They can be grown in USDA zones 9 through 11. All this uncomplicated, effortless growth on the oleander’s part may make you think you don’t need to do anything to care for the tree. Think again, even oleander has irrigation needs. Okay then, so what are the requirements for oleander watering? How often do you need to water oleander bushes?

Oleander Irrigation Needs

It is a fallacy that you do not need to be watering your oleander plants. It is a simple jump from learning they do not need much water to the idea that you need not be watering oleander. The truth is that while they will withstand a lack of water, they certainly aren’t at their best. They begin to drop their foliage, leaving the tree with an open canopy. This is a signal that they aren’t very happy. The great news is that with some adequate irrigation again, they quickly bounce back. So how much should you be watering oleander plants? They like to be watered as much as you would water your shade trees – deeply every three days. To aid in water retention, create a reservoir or dike that is 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) tall around the trunk of the tree. Also, if it is especially arid and has been, mist the plant to help stave off defoliation. If you know that you are going to go into a particularly hot, dry stretch, you can prune out 1/3 to ¼ of the foliage. Remove any growth at the tips that are young or tender and would easily dry out. Most established oleanders will have little trouble with drought conditions but be aware that they do affect the plant. You will likely have reduced growth and limited flower production during these times. Watering your oleander plants with a supplemental 1 to 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) per week during dry weather will promote growth and more profuse flowering.

If you live in Galveston, Texas or anywhere in USDA zones 9 through 11, you’re probably familiar with oleanders. I mention Galveston, as it is known as the Oleander City due to the abundant numbers of oleanders planted throughout the city. There is a reason oleander is such a popular landscape choice in this region. Oleanders are tough and suited to a variety of soil types. This raises the question of when to feed oleanders. Do you need fertilizer for oleander plants and, if so, what is a good fertilizer for oleander?

Fertilizing an Oleander

Oleanders are hardy plants that can grow up to 3 feet (1 m.) in one season. Plants damaged by cold will often re-grow from the base. They can live for more than 100 years, reliably providing the gardener with their stunning summer to midfall clusters of large, 2 inch (5 cm.), double blossoms in dizzying hues of pale yellow, peach, salmon, pink, deep red, and even white. These gorgeous blossoms are perfectly offset by the large, smooth, deep green, thick, leathery leaves. The fragrant flowers and pleasing habit along with their ability to withstand poor soil make them an ideal choice for many gardeners. Once established, oleanders are even drought tolerant. They tolerate coastal conditions and anything from sand, clay, to salty soil. Given the forgiving nature of the plant, is fertilizing oleander necessary?

When to Feed Oleanders

Oleander plant fertilizer is not usually necessary since, as mentioned, they are a fairly low-maintenance plant. In fact, they rarely need any soil amendments or fertilizer at planting. Fertilizing oleanders can actually burn the roots and cause damage to the plants. If you do have extremely heavy soil, you can amend it a bit with a few shovelfuls of compost or peat moss. Again, oleanders rarely need additional fertilization, especially if they are growing near a fertilized lawn where they will uptake some of those nutrients. If your soil is really poor and you notice the leaves are pale, slow to grow, or the plant bears few flowers, you might need to give the plant a perk up. So, what is a good fertilizer for oleander plants? If you determine that the plants would benefit from a feeding, apply a 10-10-10 fertilizer in the spring and again in the fall at the rate of ½ cup (120 ml.) per plant. If you are growing container oleanders, the plants should be fertilized more frequently, as the nutrients leach out of the pots. Apply 3 to 4 tablespoons (45-60 ml.) of a granular 10-10-10 fertilizer every four to six weeks.

Oleander shrubs (Nerium oleander) are tough plants that typically need little care to reward you with a profusion of colorful flowers in summer. But there are some diseases of oleander plants that can compromise their health and hinder their ability to bloom.

Oleander Plant Diseases

Bacterial pathogens are the culprits behind the primary oleander plant diseases, although some fungal pathogens may also infect oleanders. These organisms can infect plants through pruning cuts, and they’re often transmitted by insects that feed on the plant tissue. Some diseases of oleander plants may look like other oleander problems, such as cultural disorders that include insufficient water or nutrient deficiencies. Troubleshooting tip: Take a plant sample to your local Extension office for their expert diagnosis of specific oleander problems.

Oleander leaf scorch

Oleander leaf scorch is caused by the bacterial pathogen Xylella fastidiosa. Symptoms include drooping and yellowing leaves, which are also symptoms of drought stress or nutrient deficiencies. However, if an oleander is drought-stressed, the leaves begin turning yellow at the middle and then spread outward. Leaf scorch disease causes leaves to begin turning yellow from the outside edges toward the middle. Another way you can identify leaf scorch from drought stress is that wilted oleander plants suffering from leaf scorch do not recover after you water them.

Oleander knot

Oleander knot is caused by the bacterial pathogen Pseudomonas savastonoi pv. nerii. Symptoms include the appearance of knotty growths, called galls, along the stems, bark, and leaves.

Witches’ broom

Witches’ broom is caused by the fungal pathogen Sphaeropsis tumefaciens. Symptoms include a closely massed group of new stems that arise after shoot tips die back. The new stems grow only a few inches (5 cm.) before they also die.

Treating Oleander Diseases

While there are no cures for these bacterial and fungal problems, there are steps you can take to help prevent or control oleander plant diseases.

• Cultivate healthy plants by planting them in full sun, watering them in times of drought and fertilizing them according to soil-test recommendations.
• Avoid using overhead irrigation, such as sprinklers, because this keeps the plants wet and fosters a breeding ground for disease organisms.
• Prune your plants to remove dead and diseased stems and twigs, and disinfect your pruning tools between each cut in a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water.

Caution: All parts of oleander are toxic, so use caution when using any oleander disease treatment. Wear gloves if you handle the plants, and don’t burn diseased limbs, because the fumes are also toxic.

Few plants can rival the showy flowers of oleander shrubs (Nerium oleander). These plants are adaptable to a variety of soils, and they flourish in heat and full sun while also being drought tolerant. Although the shrubs are usually grown in the warmer regions of USDA hardiness zones, they often perform surprisingly well a bit outside this comfort zone. Read on to learn more about oleander winter hardiness.

How Cold Can Oleanders Tolerate?

In their perennial range across oleander hardiness zones 8 to 10, most oleanders can only handle temperatures that dip no lower than 15 to 20 degrees F. (10 to -6 C.). Sustained exposure to these temperatures can damage plants and inhibit or reduce flowering. They perform best when planted in full sun, which also helps melt the frost formation more quickly than when planted in shady areas.

Does Cold Affect Oleander?

Even a light dusting of frost can burn the developing leaf and flower buds of oleander. During heavy frosts and freezes, plants may die back all the way to the ground. In their hardiness range, oleanders that die to the ground typically don’t die all the way to the roots. In spring, the shrubs will likely re-sprout from the roots, although you may want to remove the unsightly, dead branches by pruning them away. The most common way that cold affects oleander is during early spring cold snaps after plants have begun warming up in late winter. This sudden reversal of temperature may be the sole reason oleander shrubs don’t produce flowers in the summer. Tip: Place a 2 to 3 inch (5-8 cm.) layer of mulch around your oleander shrubs to help insulate the roots in regions where they are less hardy. This way, even if the top growth dies back to the ground, the roots will be better protected so the plant can re-sprout.

Winter Hardy Oleander Shrubs

Oleander winter hardiness can vary, depending on the cultivar. Some winter hardy oleander plants include:

• ‘Calypso,' a vigorous bloomer that has single cherry-red flowers
• ‘Hardy Pink’ and ‘Hardy Red,’ two of the most winter hardy oleander plants. These cultivars are hardy to zone 7b.

Toxicity: You’ll want to wear gloves when handling an oleander shrub because all parts of the plant are toxic. If you prune cold-damaged limbs, don’t burn them because even the fumes are toxic.

Oleanders (Nerium oleander) are beautiful mounded shrubs with glossy, leather-like evergreen foliage and brilliant blooms. Dwarf varieties reach 3 to 5 feet (1-1.5 m.) at maturity while full-size shrubs will grow up to 12 feet (3.5 m.) tall and 12 feet (3.5 m.) wide.

Pruning oleander shrubs is not necessary for health but will keep the shrub tidy and control growth. The time to prune oleanders and how to prune an oleander for best results are important considerations whenever oleander trimming does become necessary.

When to Prune Oleanders

Oleander should be pruned in late winter to early spring, just before new growth starts. Do not prune in autumn, as this will encourage new growth that could be harmed by frost. Oleanders bloom on new growth, so all pruning should be done on old wood.

Having the right tools makes pruning oleander shrubs easier. Hand pruners and loppers are usually sufficient to trim oleanders. Make sure that your tools are in good working order and sharp. Wipe all debris from your tools using a clean rag, soak them in a solution of one part bleach and three parts water for five minutes, then rinse with clean water. This will help reduce the spread of pathogens.

How to Prune an Oleander

Oleander trimming is not difficult but requires some planning. Step back from your bush and formulate a pruning plan in your head. Take note of the desired shape you wish to achieve and get an idea of how much you need to trim away.

Annual pruning of oleander bushes involves inspection for dead or damaged limbs first. Remove these limbs at the ground or at the point where they join a healthy limb. As a rule, do not remove more than one-third of the entire bush. Trim branches just above a leaf node. This will encourage new growth.

Continual pruning in this manner will encourage your oleander to be bushy, rather than tall and lanky. Every two or three years you can prune your oleander for renewal. This means taking more than one-third off and cutting the oleander back aggressively.

Rake up and dispose of all debris after you have finished pruning.

Oleander plants (Nerium oleander) are among the most versatile of shrubs, with dozens of uses in southern and coastal landscapes. They tolerate a wide range of conditions, including difficult soil, salt spray, high pH, severe pruning, reflected heat from pavements and walls, and drought. 

The one thing they can't withstand, though, is winter temperatures below 20 degrees F. (-7 C.). However, in cooler climates, you can grow an oleander plant in a container and bring it indoors when temperatures drop.

Growing Oleanders in the Garden

The first thing you should know if you want to grow an oleander plant in the garden is that you need to avoid growing oleanders in home landscapes where children and pets play. 

All parts of oleander shrubs are poisonous and the smoke from burning oleander debris is toxic. Ingesting even a small amount of foliage, flowers, or shoots from an oleander plant can be fatal. Contact with the foliage and flowers can cause severe skin irritations and allergic reactions as well. Always wear long sleeves and gloves when working with the shrub. 

Oleanders bloom from spring until the end of summer, producing large clusters of flowers in shades of yellow, white, pink, or red at the tips of the stems. They grow and bloom best in full sun, but they will tolerate light shade.

Oleanders are considered hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, but they are sometimes damaged by frost in zone 8. The shrub usually recovers, even if killed nearly to the ground. Prune and reshape the damaged parts of the shrub to encourage new growth.

How to Care for Oleander

Oleander care is easy, and this makes the shrub popular with highway departments. You'll often see masses of oleander shrubs planted in highway beautification projects where they provide an outstanding display of long-lasting flowers with very little maintenance. 

Even in the garden, oleander shrubs require minimal care. Although the shrubs are drought tolerant, they look their best when they are watered during dry spells. However, take care not to overwater them. Yellowing leaves indicate that the plant is getting too much water. 

If the soil is poor, feed the plant lightly with a balanced fertilizer during its first spring. Once established, oleander shrubs don't require routine fertilization. Pinching out the tips of young stems reduces legginess and encourages the shrub to branch out. 

Pruning oleanders can also be performed. Prune to remove damaged or diseased limbs any time, and prune to shape the shrub in late fall.