Drought-tolerant ornamental grasses are a boon in our landscapes. They save time and money on watering as well as reduce the demand on our water resources – and they look good doing it!

Ornamental grasses add movement, color, and structure to a landscape. Many of them provide four seasons of interest and also provide nesting areas and food for wildlife. These grasses survive periods without rain due to their deep network of roots that seek out water far below. Their deep roots also serve as erosion control.

If you haven’t added any low-maintenance ornamental grasses to your yard yet, I’ve rounded up the best ones to try that are drought-tolerant and perfect for almost any landscape. Add them to a rock garden, to a privacy screen, in a mass planting, or simply as a focal point. These tough yet beautiful ornamental grasses pack an extra punch in the landscape.

1. Little Bluestem

Little bluestem is a highly-prized landscape grass not only for its drought tolerance, but its beauty in the landscape. An Eastern North American native ornamental grass, its erect, bluish stems turn a warm, copper color in fall, complemented by purplish-bronze seed heads.

Growing 2 to 4 feet (0.6-1.2 m) tall, little bluestem grass tolerates high heat and humidity in addition to its excellent drought tolerance. It provides seeds and cover for wildlife and is a host plant for several butterflies and moths. Hardy to USDA zones 3 to 9, plant little bluestem in average, well-drained soil in full sun.

Get little bluestem grass for your garden from Fast Growing Trees online.

2. Blue Grama

Blue grama grass grows in a clump form to about 12 to 15 inches (30-38 cm). In midsummer, its flowering stems reach up to 2.5 feet (0.8 m) tall. The distinctive seed heads hang on one side of the stems like flags, giving it a whimsical appearance.

Foliage turns golden brown in fall, sometimes tinged with orange and red. The blonde, dried seed heads persist through winter. Hardy in USDA zones 3 to 10, plant blue grama in sandy to rocky soil in full sun.

Get 'Blonde Ambition' blue grama grass online from Nature Hills Nursery.

3. Ruby Muhly Grass

Growing about 2 feet (0.6 m) tall, muhly grass blooms in late summer to autumn with a show-stopping pink cloud hovering over the grass. Seed heads follow, turning tawny brown, along with the foliage, in winter.

Hardy to USDA zones 5 to 9, this Oklahoma and Texas native plant thrives in rocky, shallow, but well-drained soil in full sun to light shade. It tolerates heat, humidity, and drought.

Buy pink muhly grass in bulk from the Home Depot to quickly fill in your landscape fast.

4. Purple Love Grass

This warm-season grass grows all summer then produces florets that bloom above its green foliage, creating a dramatic haze of reddish-pink. Purple love grass performs best in dry, poor soils in sunny sites, growing about 2 feet (0.6 m) tall.

Besides being drought tolerant, it withstands salt on winter roads and even tolerates juglone from the black walnut tree. This North American native is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9.

Buy purple love grass plants that are ready to transplant from Garden Goods Direct.

5. Indian Grass

A warm-season perennial, Indian grass does most of its growing during the summer, reaching 5 to 7 feet (1.5 to 2 m) tall. Its blue-green leaves retain its color until the first frost date. Yellow inflorescences bloom in late summer to fall, swaying above the foliage. Fall brings colors of yellow-orange.

Native to the Southeastern US, it provides cover for wildlife and seeds for backyard songbirds. Hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9, grow Indian grass in dry, poor soil in full sun.

Start Indian grass from seed with these seeds from Walmart.

6. Blue Oat Grass

This western Mediterranean native brings steel blue, arching leaves to a mid-sized, cool-season ornamental grass. Similar to blue fescue, blue oat grass is larger and stouter. Besides being drought tolerant, it also resists deer, salt, and rabbits.

Hardy to USDA zones 4 to 8, it prefers full sun to part shade and dry, well-drained soil. Blue oat grass remains showy in all four seasons where winters are mild.

You can get ready-to-plant blue oat grass online from Amazon.

Ornamental grasses, from short and spiky edging grasses to show-stopping, tall and wispy fountain grasses, are striking and generally easy to grow. Many gardeners use these grasses for a low-maintenance feature and to add year-round visual interest.

Choosing low-maintenance ornamental grasses makes adding unique texture and color to your garden simple. The most important factor in choosing the easiest grass is to match it to your climate, conditions, and hardiness zone. Native grasses are the easiest of all to grow.

Here are some ideas for every type of garden.

1. Switchgrass

Switchgrass is a great choice for gardeners in the eastern U.S., where it’s native. Switchgrass is a pretty green grass that grows in upright clumps as tall as six feet (1.8 m) at maturity. It turns yellow in fall, and, unlike some grasses, won’t slump over in winter, allowing you to use it for dormant season visual interest.

Grow switchgrass in zones 3 through 9 in full sun and soil that tends to retain some moisture. Although it prefers moist soil, this grass does have good drought tolerance. The only real maintenance you need to do is to cut it back in spring to allow new growth to come in. Find 'Heavy Metal' switchgrass from Garden Goods Direct for cool, metallic blue foliage.

2. Bottlebrush

Like switchgrass, bottlebrush is native and can grow even in cold climates. It is hardy from zone 3 through 8. Elymus hystrix is a cool-season grass, so it thrives in the shoulder seasons and goes dormant during the heat of summer. It grows up to four feet (1.2 m) tall and has unique, bottlebrush-shaped seedheads.

Native bottlebrush is very low-maintenance if grown in the right conditions. It grows naturally in shaded woody areas with soil that drains very well and is even dry at times. It will reseed itself and come back year after year without much effort on your part. Bottlebrush grass can be found at Plant Addicts Nursery and shipped directly to you.

3. Pink Muhly Grass

For both a unique color and texture, choose pink muhly grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris). As the name suggests, this grass adds a touch of pink to the garden. The feathery tufts of pink or reddish flowers put on a show in fall. It’s a smaller grass, growing only as tall as three feet (0.9 m), and looks nice in rock gardens, beds, and as an edging plant.

Native to North America, you can grow pink muhly grass in zones 5 through 9. It tolerates a variety of soils, even poor, sandy, and rocky soils. It is also drought-tolerant and needs full sun. As with most other native grasses, you won’t need to fertilize this one. For the showiest blooms, trim the grass back while it’s still dormant in winter. Pink muhly grass, available from Fast Growing Trees, can be planted just about anywhere and is sure to make your neighbors jealous!

4. Little Bluestem

Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) is a great choice for most gardeners, as it is native throughout most of North America. Growing up to three feet (0.90 m) tall, little bluestem has silvery or bluish foliage in spring and summer. In summer and fall, it develops purple seedheads as the foliage changes to a coppery color and provides good winter interest.

Suitable for zones 3 through 9, you can rely on little bluestem to be low-maintenance in full sun and in even poor soils. It tolerates drought well but not standing water. 'Prairie Blues' little blue stem, available from Fast Growing Trees, offers stunning color year-round.

5. Japanese Forest Grass

For shady spots, consider Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra). Although not native, it’s also not invasive, as it grows slowly. Give it the right conditions, and this shade-tolerant grass will thrive for years in zones 4 through 9.

Japanese forest grass grows up to about two feet (60 cm) tall in neat mounds with green or variegated blades. It can grow in shade, but partial shade is best. The soil should stay consistently moist but also drain well. 'Lemon Zest' Japanese forest grass, available from Home Depot, is a stunner for shade gardens.

6. Mexican Feather Grass

This pretty grass is native to South and Central America and parts of the southwest U.S. It grows readily and easily in hot, dry climates and is hardy in zones 7 to 10. Mexican feather grass (Nassella tenuissima) has delicate and feathery foliage and summer flowers that ripple prettily in the breeze. It can be invasive in non-native areas, so check before planting in your garden.

Mexican feather grass grows as tall as two feet (60 cm), although it can also be shorter. It forms dense, fountain-shaped clumps and readily re-seeds in its native areas. Full sunlight is best, as is soil that drains very well. This grass will tolerate dry conditions but not standing water. Mexican feather grass can be purchased from Garden Goods Direct.

7. Sweet Flag

Do you have a tricky wet spot in the garden? Fill it with sweet flag, a clump-forming rush or grass that grows in standing water. You can use sweet flag along the edge of a pond or stream, but also in low spots in the garden that are always wet. This grass will not tolerate dry soil. The blades of grass are bright green and form in clumps that grow between one and two feet (30 to 60 cm) tall.

Sweet flag isn’t native, but you can grow Eurasian sweet flag in zones 4 through 10 and Japanese sweet flag in zones 6 through 9. Both need plenty of water and either full sun or partial shade. Find a beautiful variegated sweet flag grass plant from Garden Goods Direct.

Low maintenance ornamental grasses are surging in popularity! Besides adding movement, structure, color, and texture to the landscape, people are discovering their ease of care. Many varieties and cultivars are drought tolerant, and their showy flowers and seed heads extend their beauty well into winter. And the best bit? These dynamic garden stalwarts are so easygoing, they thrive year round even when neglected.

Yes, you can leave these gorgeous tough and textural beauties to their own devices, more or less, and they still look great. Although ornamental grasses generally need well-draining soil and sun to thrive, most tolerate poor soil and don’t need fertilization, unless a soil test deems it necessary. Once established, they require little (if any) supplemental water, depending on grass variety. You just need to cut them back in spring and divide plants occasionally to keep them healthy. Here are the ultimate ornamental grass varieties for lazy gardeners to love all year round.

What exactly are Four-Season Ornamental Grasses?

Ornamental grasses are classed as warm season or cool season varieties. Warm season grasses grow readily in spring and summer, followed by attractive flowers and seedheads, but then growth slows in autumn. They go dormant in winter. If you leave the foliage and seedheads intact, they provide winter interest as well as food for songbirds and small mammals.

Cool season grasses thrive in cooler climates and are most vibrant when the weather is cool, in early spring and early summer, then again in fall. During the heat of summer, foliage stops growing, but as soon as temperatures cool down again, green grass returns. They go dormant again during winter. Cool season grasses flower in late spring or early summer. Four-season ornamental grasses look great year round, from spring interest through to fall color. They display decorative flowers and seed heads and colorful foliage that persist well into winter.

Best Four-Season Ornamental Grasses

Ornamental grasses are ideal for groundcovers, erosion control, hedging and screens,, creating sensational borders and specimen plants. Tall- and medium-sized grasses make good privacy screens, hedges, or background plants for a perennial border. Smaller grasses make excellent groundcover or erosion control on a slope. Ornamental grasses are often interplanted among flowers or used as edging plants.

A few native ornamental grasses thrive year round thanks to their hardiness, adaptability and resistance to disease. Grouping them creates an eye-catching display with the grass-like foliage swaying in the breeze. Their decorative plumes and seed heads are great additions to floral displays and last for weeks. Here are 6 perennial ornamental grasses for year round interest.

1. Little Bluestem

Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) is a native, warm season grass with bluish green foliage that flourishes in USDA zones 3-10. Its foliage grows to 16 inches tall (0.4 m) and changes to copper or bronze in the fall. It produces tan flowers in late summer and autumn, growing on tall, rigid stems which extend the height to 30 inches tall (0.8 m) or more, perfect for a low maintenance native garden with year round interest.

Cultivars of little bluestem include ‘Blue Paradise’ (blue-purple foliage), ‘Brush Strokes’ (powder blue foliage that turns red), ‘Twilight Zone’ (pale blue foliage with purple tips) and ‘Standing Ovation’ (blue-green foliage which turns orange red). You can buy ‘The Blues’ Little Bluestem Grass from Nature Hills as a live plant.

2. Switchgrass

Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) is a warm-season US native with green-blue foliage that turns gold in fall. The airy seedheads seem to float above rigid stems that stand up well to winter. This beautiful ornamental grass that pollinators love will tolerate clay or sandy soil. It can reach 3-6 feet tall (0.9-1.8 m), and wildlife is well served with food and shelter.

Lovely switchgrass cultivars include ‘Northwind’ (gray-green foliage), ‘Shenandoah’ (red tipped green foliage), ‘Cheyenne Sky' (blue-green foliage that turns red), and ‘Heavy Metal’ (metallic blue leaves with pinkish panicles). This grass thrives in USDA hardiness zones 4-9. You can buy Switchgrass ‘Shenandoah’ from Fast Growing Trees at a discount while stocks last.

3. Pink Muhly Grass

Pink muhly grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris) is another North American native, and one of the most impactful ornamental grasses for all seasons. This warm season grass reaches 2-3 feet tall (0.6-0.9 m) and up to 4 feet (1.2 m) when in bloom. It is perfect for a border, groundcover or en masse. The more sun it receives, the more pinky purple flowers it produces, for a showy late summer display.

Pink muhly grass is hardy in zones 5-9. Leave the tan seed plumes of this dazzling muhly grass intact for winter interest. The tiny purple seeds are eaten by songbirds and small mammals. Cultivars include ‘Pink Flamingo',’ Regal Mist ‘Lenca,’ and ‘White Cloud,’ with billowy, white flowers. Buy Greenwood Nursery Store Pink Muhly Grass as live pot plants from Amazon.

4. Bottlebrush Grass

Bottlebrush grass (Elymus hystrix) is a native cool season grass which is perfect for shady areas. It actively grows in spring and produces flowers and seedheads during summer. Its chartreuse foliage reaches 2.5-3 feet (0.8-0.9 m) tall. The bottlebrush grass plant blooms for many weeks and the seedheads really do resemble bottlebrushes. It thrives in USDA hardiness zones 3-7.

A white, waxy substance on the stems and seedheads makes this ornamental grass a standout in the garden. It grows in partial sun or shade, and prefers average to moist soil. It may self-sow, but it is not aggressive. You can buy packs of seeds for Everwilde Farms Bottlebrush Grass from Amazon.

5. Feather Reed Grass

Feather reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora) is a hybrid of two species. ‘Karl Foerster’ is the most common cultivar, and was named perennial plant of the year in 2001 for its attractiveness, versatility and low maintenance. Its green, glossy foliage reaches 2 feet tall (0.6 m). In flower, expect this grass to exceed 5 feet (1.5 m).

This cool season grass produces pink plumes that change to maroon, then bronze, then fade to tan in winter. It is hardy in USDA zones 3-9 and works well with other late flowering perennials such as echinacea and coreopsis. The ‘Avalanche’ variety boasts variegated foliage with a central white stripe. You can buy Feather Reed Grass ‘Karl Foerster’ from Nature Hills as live plants.

6. Prairie Dropseed

Prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis) is an excellent groundcover or erosion control plant. This warm-season native grass tops out at 2 feet (0.6 m). Its showy fall flowers are also deliciously fragrant, with a buttery popcorn or melting wax scent. Summer’s fine-textured, arching green leaves turn orange in autumn, creating dazzling fall interest with big curb appeal, evolving to copper for winter interest.

Despite its name, prairie dropseed does not easily grow from seed. However, wildlife will enjoy the dropped seeds. This gorgeous ornamental grass thrives in USDA zones 3-9. You can buy Perennial Farms’ Prairie Dropseed Ornamental Grass from Amazon as live plants.

Little Care Tips for Big Impact

The most important care tip for these lovely ornamentals is to cut back your grasses each year before new growth starts in early spring. Prune ornamental grasses to 6 inches (15 cm) above ground. You can use pruners, hedge trimmers, or a weed eater with a brush cutting blade. For slicing through bulk grasses at speed and with confidence, try the highly rated Greenworks 24V 22in Cordless Laser Cut Hedge Trimmer from Amazon.

Ornamental grasses also benefit from division every three to five years, depending on the species. If the center starts dying out, it is time to divide. You can use a shovel or hatchet to dig plants up. Buy the Fiskars D-Handle Digging Shovel from Amazon for powerful control and comfort while digging. Roots are deep and sturdy, so digging and dividing can be a workout, but it’s an effective way to propagate your ornamental grass and keep it in good shape. The best time to divide is early spring for warm and cool grasses, but cool grasses can also be divided in fall.

Don’t Forget: Invasive Species

Avoid invasive ornamental grass species that multiply readily from seed or rhizomes, displacing native plants. One Asian species that is identified as invasive is Chinese silver grass (Miscanthus sinensis), a popular grass sold in nurseries. Cultivars such as 'Adagio,' 'Gracillimus,' 'Strictus,' and 'Zebrinus' should be avoided. However, giant miscanthus, a sterile hybrid, should be safe.

Fountain grasses, such as the non-native Chinese fountain grass (Cenchrus alopecuroides) and crimson fountain grass (Cenchrus setaceus) can escape cultivation and cause problems. Red flag cultivars include ‘Little Bunny’, ‘Red Head’ and ‘Hamlein’ grasses. Hardy pampas grass (Saccharum ravennae) can be invasive if allowed to reseed in wet areas.

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Ornamental grasses are increasingly popular in the home landscape for several reasons. Grasses are generally easy to grow and require little maintenance. Plus, they come in a wide variety of colors, sizes, and textures, making for a diverse plant type in beds, along walkways, and even in naturalized areas.

Ornamental grasses can be environmentally friendly, too. You can find plenty of native grasses to use, but even non-native grasses tend to resist drought and need few resources. They provide habitat for wildlife and don’t typically have a lot of pests or diseases.

If you’re thinking of adding more types of ornamental grasses to your garden, one final benefit is that many look gorgeous year round. Growing ornamental grass can provide as much beauty in the snow in winter as lush, green plants can in summer. But there are certain varieties that put on an especially stunning show in fall. Let's take a look at the best ornamental grasses for fall color.

Best Ornamental Grasses for Fall Color

Many ornamental grasses change color in autumn and are hardy enough to maintain that color even after the first frost. But with so many varieties available, it can be hard to know which ones to pick. So I've made it easy and rounded up the best ornamental grasses for a fabulous fall show.

1. Little Bluestem

Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) is a native North American prairie grass that is tough and very easy to grow. It gets its name from the blue base of the stem that fades to green toward the top.

Little bluestem is hardy in zones 3 through 9 and grows up to four feet (1.2 m) tall. It will grow even in poor soil and is both drought and heat-tolerant.

This beautiful type of blue ornamental grass blooms at the end of summer and holds onto its wispy tufts as the stems transition to shades of maroon, bronze, and orange in fall. You can find different cultivars with some variations in color.

‘Standing Ovation’ is red to maroon. ‘Blaze’ turns orange and then reddish-purple. ‘Blue Heaven’ develops into a rich burgundy in fall.

Order a Standing Ovation little bluestem plant today from the Home Depot.

2. Switchgrass

For another native meadow plant with good fall color, check out this tall stunner. Growing up to 9 feet (2.7 m) tall, switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) blooms in summer with attractive flower plumes that last into fall. Grow switchgrass in full sun in zones 3 through 9. It’s not picky about soil type.

Be aware that some varieties of switchgrass offer better fall color than others. ‘Prairie Fire’ is a good option with deep, wine-red stems in fall. ‘Rehbraun’ has a reddish brown color in fall. ‘Shenandoah’ is one of the most prized varieties for rich burgundy fall color.

Get a 2-pack of Shenandoah switchgrass plants from Home Depot to create a colorful entry around your front door.

3. Prairie Dropseed

Prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis) is a native grass with a different texture and growth habit compared to bluestem and switchgrass.

Like these other ornamental native grasses, it’s easy to grow and will tolerate drought, heat, and poor soil in zones 3 through 9. But as a bonus, this is an endangered grass in some areas, so by letting it grow and develop seeds, you’ll help the plant and feed native wildlife.

Prairie dropseed grows only to about 2 feet (0.6 m) tall and has fine, thin leaves that grow in mounds, giving it a fluffy, feathery look. It flowers in summer and turns into shades of gold-orange to bronze in fall and winter.

Find prairie dropseed grass at Walmart or look for it at your local native plant nursery.

4. Pink Muhly Grass

Use pink muhly grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris) in areas where you want spectacular color in a smaller package. Muhly grass grows up to 3 feet (0.9 m) tall and about as wide in attractive clumps.

Native throughout North America, pink muhly grass is characterized by feathery, pink flower plumes that bloom in fall. You can reliably grow muhly grass in zones 5 through 9 and in a range of soil types.

It does best in full sun and doesn’t require a lot of water. In fact, muhly grass prefers drier conditions, so it’s a great choice for xeriscaping and for difficult, dry, rocky soils.

Make plant shopping easy and order pink muhly grass from Amazon.

5. Maiden Grass

Maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensis) is an attractive ornamental grass that grows up to 12 feet (3.6 m) tall, depending on the variety, with a graceful, arching shape. It’s hardy in zones 5 through 9, grows slowly, and prefers moist, well-drained soil in full sun.

This plant is native to Asia and may be considered an invasive ornamental grass in your area. Be sure to check your specific locale before planting and do not to let it spread to natural areas, even if you live somewhere where it's not listed as invasive.

Maiden grass flowers bloom in late summer and early fall in a pretty coppery color that fades to silver-white in fall and winter. Leave the grass in place until spring for good winter interest.

In addition to the pretty flowers, maiden grass stems turn different colors in fall, depending on the variety. For a spectacular fall show, choose ‘Fire Dragon.’ Its fall foliage is bright red-orange, topped by feathery white flowers.

Get fiery fall color with a Fire Dragon maiden grass from Nature Hills Nursery.

6. Pheasant’s Tail Grass

Another non-native species, pheasant’s tail grass (Anemanthele lessoniana) is a smaller grass with spectacular fall color. This grass blooms in summer and the leaves turn various shades of orange, red, and yellow in fall.

Pheasant's tail grows 2 to 3 feet (0.6 to 0.9 m) tall and has long, thin leaves that fall gracefully from a compact central clump. This show-stopping fall front yard plant is best for warmer gardens, as it’s only hardy in zones 8 through 10. In these areas, it is semi-evergreen.

Grow it in full sun or partial shade in nearly any soil type. Pheasant’s tail grass will tolerate drought, and although non-native, it does not aggressively reseed.

Start pheasant's tail grass with seeds from Amazon for a low-cost garden.

7. Pampas Grass

For an elegant grass, it’s hard to beat pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana), which grows up to 10 feet (3 m) tall. The stems are sturdy and upright, holding beautiful, feathery flower plumes from late summer into fall.

Depending on the variety you choose, you can get various fall colors in this fast-growing, non-native species. ‘Rosea’ and ‘Pink Feather' have stunning pink flower plumes that last well into fall. ‘Stunningdale Silver’ and ‘Ivory Feathers’ bloom with silver or white flowers in fall.

Pampas grass is easy to grow in full or partial sun in well-drained soil in zones 7 through 10. Just keep in mind that pampas grass is invasive in some areas. Be sure to check your specific growing location and do not plant if it is a problem where you live.

You can find pink pampas grass plants from Amazon for a pretty pop of color in your autumn landscape.

If you’re looking for an ornamental grass to add movement and sound to your garden, why not try a blue ornamental grass? From silver blue to blue-green to deep blue, blue ornamental grass hues change with the temperature providing eye-catching color all season.

Then in autumn, the colors change again to reflect the sunset. Adding a pop of blue grass to the landscape can brighten up a border or provide eye-catching color in a group planting.

Growing ornamental grasses near a seating area allows you to hear the rustling leaves in the breeze and appreciate their fine color changes. Create a serene space anywhere with blue ornamental grasses.

Our Top 6 Blue Ornamental Grass Plants

We gathered a group of six ornamental grasses with blue foliage to wow you and your neighbors. The smaller plants serve well as groundcovers, too. An ornamental blue grass plant is stellar as a specimen in a small garden or a container on the patio.

Small clumps of blue grasses can edge the front of a shrub, create an ornamental grass border, line a pathway. Native grasses such as little bluestem or switch grass can add movement and texture to a native garden or a pollinator garden, besides offering food and cover for wildlife.

Here are six ornamental grasses that feature blue leaves:

1. 'Twilight Zone' Little Bluestem

Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) is a native ornamental grass that grows 2 to 4 feet (0.6 to 1.2 m) tall and about 2 feet (0.6 m) wide with a columnar shape. Its leaves take on an iridescent silvery blue cast in summer, later adding purple and mauve highlights that increase in fall. The brownish seed heads provide food for wildlife. It tolerates heat and humidity and is deer-resistant.

'Twilight Zone' Little bluestem is a larval host plant for several butterflies and moths and provides cover and food for birds and other wildlife. Provide full sun and dry-to-average soil for best performance. USDA zones 3-9.

2. 'The Blues' Little Bluestem

For even bluer foliage, ‘The Blues’ little bluestem stays deep blue all summer then turns a coppery orange color in fall. Silvery white plumes form in late summer and persist through winter.

Like other little bluestem grasses, it provides food and cover for wildlife. It grows 2 to 3 feet (0.6 to 0.9) tall and 2 feet (0.6) wide. Provide it with full sun and well-drained soil. USDA zones 4-9.

3. Blue Fescue

Blue fescue (Festuca ovina glauca) ornamental grass is a European native that forms small, semi-evergreen clumps to 12 inches (30 cm) high and wide. The foliage color changes with the seasons from silvery blue to blue-green to mottled green in fall. The foliage stays green in winter in mild climates but changes to brown in cold climates. Flower spikes form with light green and purple flowers that turn a buff color if not deadheaded.

Blue fescue prefers full sun and moist soil but is adaptable to a wide range of conditions. ‘Elijah Blue’ is a common cultivar offered as well as ‘Sea Urchin’ and ‘Boulder Blue.’ USDA zones 4-8.

4. Shenandoah Switchgrass

Shenandoah switchgrass (Panicum virgatum 'Shenandoah') is a North American native with a columnar form that typically reaches 3 feet (0.9 m). The Panicum virgatum ‘Shenandoah’ cultivar features blue-green emerging foliage whose tips turn burgundy red by summer. Tall reddish-pink flower spikes dance atop the foliage in late summer. Seedheads provide food for birds.

Suitable for native plant gardens; bog gardens; along streams; or in mass, group, or accent plantings. Prefers a moist soil in full to part sun. USDA zones 5-9.

5. Blue Oat Grass

Blue oat grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens) is similar to blue fescue cultivars but is taller with steel blue foliage. The clump-forming grass is 2 feet tall (0.6 m) and 3 feet wide (0.9 m). Blue-flowered plumes in midsummer top the grasses. The blue leaves turn to light brown in autumn and remain through winter.

It brightens a perennial border, can be massed or used as edging, specimen, or container plant. Site it in full sun and well-drained soil. USDA zones 3 or 4-8.

6. Savannah Ruby Grass

'Savannah' Ruby grass (Melinis nerviglumis ‘Savannah’) is a tropical grass and, thus, generally treated as an annual. However, it is worth growing for its lush, blue-green foliage in the spring and summer that turns purple-red in the fall. The showy flower spikes have fuzzy pink heads that last into fall. Including the flower spikes, it grows about 2 feet (0.6 m) tall.

If grown in a container, it can be moved indoors for winter. Grow ruby grass in full sun in well-drained soil. USDA zones 8-10.

Ornamental native grasses can prove to be ideal for use in your home landscape. Adapted to a wide range of conditions, most ornamental grass species will grow well, requiring only little care from you. Plants can be used in containers, mixed borders, or used as hedges and privacy screens. Identifying native grasses that grow best in your own yard requires some careful research. Below, we’ll explore some of the most popular and unique native American grasses and their characteristics.

Choosing the Best Ornamental Native Grasses for Your Garden

Ornamental grasses can vary greatly from one species to the next. Size, form and overall growth habit will all help you determine which ornamental grass plant is a good fit for the garden. This is especially true of native types, which often demonstrate an improved tolerance to insect pressure and disease. When growing ornamental grasses, local species thrive where conditions for growth are ideal, and they support local wildlife and the backyard’s ecosystem.

1. Indian Grass

Like many taller species, these unique ornamental grasses add height and drama to a yard or garden bed. Indian grass (Sorghastrum nutans) sets its seed early. Over time, Indian grass plants will develop a notable warm, bronze hue. Though the grass may spread where conditions are ideal, growers seldom find it to be aggressive or invasive. Indian grass is further praised for its hardiness, adaptability and resistance to disease. Plants are hardy to USDA zones 3-9.

2. Big Bluestem

Known for its use within prairies and meadows, big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) is a good choice for gardeners in search of tall, colorful foliage. As weather cools in autumn, big bluestem growers can expect beds filled with vibrant shades of copper, red, and orange. Plants should be trimmed routinely as a means to maintain a tidy, compact form. Big bluestem grass is hardy to USDA zones 3-9.

3. Blue Fescue

Blue fescue (Festuca ovina glauca) grasses are among the most popular species used in the landscape. Plants are especially attractive when the weather is cool, often performing best in spring and early autumn. Its low, mounding habit makes blue fescue ideal for use as a groundcover or as bedding within mixed borders. Hardy fescue is known to thrive when planted in rock gardens and containers, as well. Plants are hardy to USDA zones 4-8.

4. Muhly Grass

A true show-stopper among ornamentals, gardeners are certain to delight in the color and appeal of muhly grass. As cooler weather approaches in fall, each of the plant’s plumes will take on an ethereal pink hue. Large plantings of muhly grass are especially attractive, as beds will seemingly glow with color. Muhly grass is generally considered easy to grow, as it native to much of the eastern United States. Plants are hardy to USDA zones 5-11.

5. Prairie Dropseed

Prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis) is most commonly planted amongst established perennials. Delicate foliage is used to add a light, airy appearance to beds. Plants add further interest to the growing space with their unique fragrance and fall color. As prairie dropseed plants play host to several species of butterflies and moths, their addition to the landscape can help to restore the garden ecosystem and improve its overall health. Plants are hardy to USDA zones 3-8.

6. Switchgrass

Another popular choice for meadows and naturalized spaces, switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) plays an important role in the creation of wildlife habitat. Established plantings of switchgrass serve as an invaluable source of food and shelter for birds and an array of small mammals. Plants are hardy to USDA zones 3-10.

7. Tufted Hairgrass

Known for its airy appearance, tufted hairgrass (Deschampsia cespitosa) can add elegance and sophistication to most any ornamental bed. Large plumes can be used as a focal flower or to draw the eye through the landscape. Plants are especially striking when arranged en masse or as an accent to pollinator gardens. Tufted hairgrass is hardy to USDA zones 4-8.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do you think of turf grass – like the typical American lawn – as real grass? It’s not surprising that many do, given the fact that we “water the grass” and “mow the grass” and “rake the grass.” In fact, if you want to see real grass in your landscape, you’ll need to plant ornamental grasses: plants in the genus Gramineae or related plants like sedges and rushes.

The Best Ornamental Grasses

Ornamental grasses require little maintenance and add color and interesting texture to any garden. Which types of ornamental grasses to choose? Pick one appropriate for your hardiness zone and climate. Here are seven of our favorites.

1. Muhly grass (Muhlbergia capillaris)

This beautiful and showy ornamental grass grows to 3 feet (90 cm) in either direction in a sunny location in USDA hardiness zones 6–11. Growing muhly grass is easiest in warm locations. It has showy pink flowers in the fall that create a real show-stopping display with their fluffy, cloud-like texture.

2. Maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensus 'Gracillimus')

A popular ornamental grass for cooler hardiness zones. It thrives in USDA zones 5–9. This is a warm-season, clump-forming grass that can grow to 5 feet (152cm) and even taller. It is also called Chinese silvergrass, maiden grass is appreciated for its graceful arching form (its narrow leaves sway in the breeze) and coppery flower panicles in late summer that become silvery plumes.

3. Feather reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’)

An extremely showy and popular ornamental grass, feather reed grass has tall, narrow green leaves and grows in upright clumps. The flower spikes are light purple, and the golden seeds persist into the winter. Feather reed grass care is possible in all but the coldest regions, USDA zones 4-11, and requires a full sun location.

4. Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus)

For the warmest regions – USDA zones 10 and 11 – consider lemongrass, a relatively short, densely clumping grass native to India. The slender leaves of grass arch gently and tolerate poor soil. Growing lemongrass requires a location with partial or full sun.

5. Blue Fescue (Festuca ovina var. glauca)

This cool-season, clump-forming ornamental grass is native to Europe. It has extremely attractive silvery-blue foliage and only grows to 10 inches (25cm) tall growth. Blue fescue growing is best in a full sun location although it will grow in partial sun. If you want the blue shade deeper, give the grass more sun and pick a cultivar like Elijah Blue.

6. Purple Fountain Grass (Pennisetum setaceum ‘Rubrum’)

Purple fountain grass is a warm-season, clump forming grass native to Africa that likes a full sun location. Its thin leaves grow to 4 feet (121 cm) tall in a graceful, arching habit. This variety is famed for its burgundy purple foliage. In mid- to late summer, it bears long dark purple flower spikes that resemble bottle brush and they persist until the first frost. This variety is for warm-winter climates only, thriving in USDA zones 8–11, but it's possible to grow purple fountain grass as an annual in chillier regions.

7. Zebra grass (Miscanthus sinensis 'Zebrinus')

You really understand the term “ornamental” when you look at zebra grass (Miscanthus sinensis Zebrinus), with its blades of grass rising to 5 feet tall (152 cm). The green grass blades offer dramatic variegation with horizontal golden strips, and the golden section increases in early fall. For additional interest, the grass produces small white flowers followed by seed head plumes. Zebra grass care is recommended in USDA hardiness zones 7-9.

Frequently Asked Questions

Ornamental grasses have become popular in gardens for many reasons, but mostly for their striking appearance and contrast with traditional flowers and perennial plants. They are also easy to maintain and often hardy.

Grasses come in a variety of sizes and colors, making them versatile additions to beds and edges.

Another great reason to grow ornamental grasses is to support pollinators in your garden. Native grasses provide vital habitat for many types of pollinators. They offer shelter and serve as sites for overwintering eggs, caterpillars, and pupae.

The best ornamental grasses for your garden are native species. These will survive the winter, require little maintenance, and be the best hosts for pollinators.

Here are some examples of beautiful ornamental grasses suitable for specific regions. Always check a plant is compatible with your USDA planting zone before purchasing.

1. Big and Little Bluestem

Big bluestem and little bluestem grasses are native to most of the US, and hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9. Little bluestem has a wider range, but big bluestem is still native to the eastern two-thirds of the country. They serve as larval hosts for several species of butterflies throughout their range.

These are bunch grasses that grow in attractive clumps, up to two feet tall for the little grass and up to eight feet tall for big bluestem. The slender stems are blue-green in color, turning rich burgundy in fall. They produce forked flower stalks and seedheads in summer and fall.

Both grasses do well in full sun or partial shade and do not need a lot of water. They tolerate a variety of soil types but not wetlands.

2. Tufted Hairgrass

This is a great choice for wetter areas of the garden. Native to most of the US and Canada, tufted hairgrass is suitable for zones 2 to 8. It grows in neat mounts up to five feet tall and produces pretty, delicate purple flowers in summer.

Tufted hairgrass hosts and feeds several pollinator species, but it is mostly deer-resistant. Plant it in wet areas of the garden. It will also tolerate more shade than many ornamental grasses.

3. Sideoats Grama

For a more compact native species, try sideoats grama. Native to most of the US and Canada, this is also the state grass of Texas, where it plays host to at least 14 native pollinator species. It grows in clumps up to about two feet tall and is a good choice for smaller spaces.

Sideoats grama is especially attractive when in bloom in summer with purple and orange flowers.

Grow sideoats grama in full sun in nearly any soil type, as long as it stays mostly dry. It needs very little maintenance and watering. It is hardy in zones 3 to 9.

4. Mexican Feather Grass

This ornamental grass is native to most of the southwest and Mexico and is hardy in zones 7 to 10. Note that it is considered invasive in southern California.

Mexican feather grass is a fine-textured wispy grass that puts on a show in even the slightest breeze. It stays green most of the year, browning only a little in the hottest part of summer. It produces feathery, light seedheads in spring.

Mexican feather grass should only be planted in dry soils. It will not tolerate a lot of water. It is easy to care for and rarely needs to be watered. It is also one of the best ornamental grasses for containers and prefers full sun to partial shade.

5. Muhly Grass

Muhly grass is a group of native grasses that grow in most of the eastern US but are hardier in the south. They grow in zones 5 through 11.

Muhly are among the most beautiful native grasses because of their striking, feathery flower spikes. Growing up to three feet tall, muhly grasses have thin stems that turn copper in fall and showy, cloud-like purple to pink flowers.

Grow muhly grass in full sun and in a variety of soil types. It tolerates drought well and does not need to be watered often. In addition to pollinators, muhly grasses attract ladybugs – helpful predator insects that attack pests.

6. Switchgrass

Switchgrass is native to most of the US and Canada. It is not native to western states but grows well in zones 5 to 9. Switchgrass varieties range from four feet to as tall as eight feet and make striking privacy screens or tall backdrops in perennial beds. It shelters numerous pollinators and provides a fall food source for native birds.

Switchgrasses provide green color in spring and summer and a range of rich fall colors. The flower spikes are less conspicuous than the tall stems and leaves.

Plant switchgrass in full sun in soil that retains some moisture. Once established, it will tolerate drought.

For most of these native species, you can now find showy cultivars. To enhance your pollinator garden, look for varieties of native grasses with varied colors, different textures of flowers and seedheads, and unique fall shades.

Wondering how to grow pink muhly grass? If you think grasses can’t be stunning ornamentals, you may have never seen pink muhly grass. This perennial grass offers lovely swaying clumps in spring and gorgeous pink plums of flowers in summer and fall. The blossom fluff fades, but the dried flowers remain on the plant during dormancy to provide winter interest.

Quick Pink Muhly Grass FactCaring for Pink Muhly Grass

• Botanical name: Muhlenbergia capillaris
• Height: 2-3 feet (60-90 cm)
• Spread: 2-3 feet (60-90 cm)
• Sun exposure: full sun
• Soil requirements: Any soil that drains well
• Hardiness zones: 6-9
• When to plant: Spring or fall

Caring for Pink Muhly Grass

Pink muhly grass needs little hands-on care. It’s a native clumping grass that can thrive perfectly well on its own given the correct placement. In case you are wondering, the common name “muhly’ comes from the genus name Muhlenbergia.

Light

You can find ornamental grasses for shady landscapes, but pink muhly grass is not one of them. Plant this perennial grass in a sunny area with at least six hours a day of direct sun.

Temperature and Humidity

This is a grass that won’t thrive below USDA zone 6. It prefers a hot or warm climate without excess humidity. Too much humidity invites fungal diseases.

Watering

This amazing native grass won’t run up your water bill. Once established, it is drought tolerant and won’t need much more than the occasional rainfall in most situations. If it is a truly dry summer and the soil is bone dry to a depth of 2 inches (5 cm), give the grass about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water to tide it over.

Fertilizer

One of the many benefits of selecting native plants is the fact that they rarely require any help in the nutrient department. They are used to the local soil. So don’t fertilize pink muhly grass unless a soil test indicates that some nutrient is missing.

Soil and Compost

Pink muhly grass will pass on wet soils and those with high alkalinity. It thrives on medium or dry soil that is pH neutral or slightly acidic. It will tolerate high-salt content soils without blinking an eye.

Problems, Pests & Diseases

With native grasses, if you give them the site they require, they are generally untroubled by diseases and pests. This is the case with pink muhly. It is a tough native grass and if it gets enough sun and the soil is medium to dry, it won’t face many issues. Wet soil can rot the roots, while too little sun will reduce or eliminate the flowers. High humidity can also lead to fungal diseases. The only remedy for these issues is replanting in a more appropriate location.

When and How to Plant Pink Muhly Grass

If this native sounds like a possibility for your yard, you might be wondering how to plant pink muhly grass. You can buy transplants at the garden store or grow it from seed. In either case, pick a sunny site with excellent drainage and prepare it for planting.

If you are growing from seed, buy the seeds or collect them from faded flowers in autumn. When to plant pink muhly grass? Plant the seeds or transplants in early spring. In a mild climate, sow seeds directly on top of the prepared soil. Otherwise, start them indoors, again simply on top of the soil, since the seeds must have sunlight to sprout. Lightly water the area by misting for the 10-14 days it takes the seeds to sprout.

Are you planting transplants? Place them at least 2 feet (61 cm) apart to give them room to spread. Remember that each clump will grow to 3 feet tall (0.9 m) and 2-3 feet (0.6-0.9 m) wide.

How to Prune Pink Muhly Grass

Prune pink muhly grass annually. This should happen just before the growing season begins, ideally in early spring. Never cut in summer since that will reduce the number of show-stopping flowers. Trim the grass but not too much, leaving 3-6 inches (7.5-15 cm) of growth above the crown of the plant. Use sharp pruners to make the job easier.

Propagating Pink Muhly Grass

Ornamental grass division is far and away the easiest method of propagating pink muhly grass, and you’ll have to do it anyway. The grass clumps get too packed together, which prevents the proper air flow from passing between them. Every few years you should dig out clumps, divide them into several chunks, and replant elsewhere. Note that the roots can be tough and may require serious tools to dislodge them; sometimes even a chainsaw.

Pink Muhly Grass Varieties to Try

If you don’t like pink or you just would like to experiment with other varieties of muhly grass, you are in luck. There are more than a few cool cultivars to try. We like:

• White Cloud - with ivory, billowy, upright. These are great as specimens.
• Rose Muhly - a shorter pink muhly grass with looser flowers, excellent for containers
• Regal Mist (Muhlenbergia capillaris Lenca) - small form, compact selection with pink/red blossoms, better for containers

Frequently Asked Questions

The graceful, arching foliage of ornamental grasses is showing up in landscapes around the country. With colorful plumes they offer year-round beauty while encouraging the presence of wildlife, providing nesting habitat and food sources. Many tall decorative grass plants are also low-maintenance native plants that establish easily and are drought-resistant.

Are you considering introducing ornamental grasses for landscaping? Read on for information about these perennial grasses and how to use them on your property.

Why You Should Grow Ornamental Grasses

Lawn turf is losing popularity with homeowners today. Native perennial grasses require less irrigation, fertilizer, and pesticides than regular grass. They also add unique patterns, colors, and textures to the yard, with grass shades ranging from traditional green to blue, red, and purple. They increase the appeal of the landscape in all four seasons, including a snowy winter garden. The flowering heads provide other color shades.

Ornamental Grasses for Every Garden

Ornamental grasses are not cookie-cutter plants. There are many species of native grasses available, and the range of sizes, shapes, and colors is amazing. Tall vertical decorative grasses, like giant reed grasses, can even work as hedges, while others are mounding and low to the ground.

If you are just considering adding ornamental grasses to your landscape, first get an overview of the different types available for your area. Mixing and matching several different shapes and sizes of grass adds interesting dimensions to the yard.

Types of Ornamental Grasses

Some ornamental grasses grow most actively in warm weather, while others shoot up during cooler weather. These have come to be known as warm season grasses and cool season grasses.

Warm season grasses turn brown and stop growing in the winter. They look dead but are only dormant, and you can count on them turning green in spring or early summer when the weather warms. They love the hot, dry midsummer weather and thrive during this period before slipping back into dormancy in late fall.

Cool season grasses do just the opposite. They like it cold, growing best when the temperatures are between near- freezing and 75 degrees F (23.8 C). During the midsummer heat, they brown and look dead, but when temperatures fall, they will get green again.

Invasive Ornamental Grasses to Avoid

If you’ve been warned that these decorative grasses are invasive, your sources are only partially wrong. Some ornamental grasses are invasive and should be avoided, since they can quickly take over your landscape as well as neighboring land. But the vast majority of ornamental grass species are not invasive.

Which ones are invasive? Invasive ornamental grasses vary among regions, so check with your state’s invasive plant listing before selecting grasses. A species that’s invasive in one locale may not be in another, given the climate and soil differences. Some invasive grasses to generally avoid include cheatgrass, running bamboo, fountain grass, and ribbon grass.

How to Care for Ornamental Grasses

Plant warm season grasses in spring and cool season grasses in either spring or autumn. It’s cheaper to use plugs or bare root plants for groundcovers or large area plantings. If you are only installing a few specimen grasses, use container plants. Plant so that the crown sits just above the soil surface.

You’ve probably selected your grasses in part for their drought tolerance. But during the first year, don’t stint on irrigation. All plants need water for the period after planting. Grasses become drought tolerant starting the second year.

Save money on fertilizer too, by not using it! Fertilizer is not only unnecessary for native grasses, it’s actually detrimental and can encourage invasiveness. Avoid rust diseases (orange or orange-brown patches on leaves) by maintaining good air circulation around the plants.

Over the longer term, all you will have to do is cut back the growth in late winter or early spring if the dead stems become a fire hazard. When the individual grass plants get so large that their center dies, divide the clumps.

Ornamental Grass Landscaping Tips

How much water should you provide your grasses the first year? Most grasses appreciate about an inch of supplemental water during the first few weeks of establishment. Water often if your soil is sandy, since the applied water will quickly pass through the soil.

How much should you cut back your ornamental grass plants every winter? Take them back to about 8 inches (20 cm) above the soil level.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do You Need to Cut Back Ornamental Grasses Every Year?

It’s a good idea to cut back ornamental grasses in late winter. That ensures healthy new growth in the new year.

What Is the Fastest Growing Ornamental Grass?

More than a few ornamental grasses grow fast. Unfortunately, many of the fastest-growing grasses are also considered invasive in some regions, so check with your local authorities at a nearby county extension service before planting. These include the Phyllostachys bamboo species that can grow to full height (15-50 feet) in one year; giant reed grass, feather reed grass, and hardy pampas grass.

Ornamental grasses have become exceedingly popular with home gardeners and landscapers, and for good reason. There are over 10,000 species that add movement and drama, all while giving a naturalized look to the landscape. Most grasses will stay self contained, but there are some species that are quite invasive. While ornamental grasses are highly sought after, you do want to avoid invasive ornamental grass varieties. So which ornamental grasses are invasive?

About Invasive Grasses

Some grasses, usually non-native grasses that are high-seeding or those with a running habit, can become invasive.

Bamboo

A prime example of this is bamboo. Bamboo comes in two types: running and clumping. Running bamboo spreads by underground rhizomes and can be highly invasive. The rampant spread of bamboo results in the crowding out of native species, both plant and animal. It should never be planted unless it’s installed in a deep container that the rhizomes cannot escape. Interestingly, digging up this type of bamboo to control it actually contributes to its spread.

Mexican Feather Grass

An example of an ornamental grass that’s invasive due to vigorous seed production is Mexican Feather grass. Recently added to California’s list of invasive plants, beautiful Mexican Feather grass has been an incredibly popular specimen sought after for its graceful fountain-like plumes.

However, Mexican Feather grass produces more than 10,000 seeds that are dispersed by wind, water, and animal feces. These seeds remain viable for more than four years, quadrupling its invasive potential. Like bamboo, it outcompetes native plant and animal species, crowding out pasture and native grasses and spreading into urban and agricultural areas, riparian zones, disrupted land, and forests.

Is Pampas Grass Invasive?

One of the most popular ornamental grasses is Pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana). Established Pampas grass is a sight to behold – individual clumping grasses that can attain heights of about 13 feet (3.9 m) adorned with white, feather plumes.

Pampas grass is stunning, especially when massed, but is nonetheless invasive in certain areas, specifically in Australia and New Zealand and along the West coast of the United States. It spreads not through rhizomes but seed distribution.

Not all Pampas grass is created equal however. If you love the look but want to avoid the invasiveness, avoid procuring any male plants. Cortaderia selloana produces both male and female blooms on separate plants so without the males to fertilize the females, viable seeds will not be produced and shed.

Which Ornamental Grasses are Invasive?

The following is not a comprehensive list of invasive ornamental grasses. Check with your local extension office, Master Gardener hotline or state invasive plant listing before planting questionable grasses. Note that nurseries may carry invasive plants for sale, often unbeknownst to them. Also, what is considered invasive in one area may not be in another so, again, the best bet is to do your research and check with the above organizations before purchasing or planting ornamental grasses. Invasive ornamental grasses include the following species:

• Cheatgrass
• Chinese Silver grass
• Cogon grass, Fountain grasses
• Giant reed
• Glyceria maxima
• Japanese stiltgrass
• Johnson grass
• Phragmites australis (Common Reed)
• Reed Canary or Ribbon grass
• Tripidium ravennae (hardy Pampas grass) are all invasive grasses

Siberian melic altissima is an ornamental grass with striking, deep purple panicles in summer. Use this grass for borders, cottage gardens, meadows, as a focal point, or anchor in a mixed bed with flowers. This grass is easy to grow and requires little maintenance. 

What is Siberian Melic? 

Siberian melic grass is an ornamental grass with the scientific name Melica altissima. Native to Siberia, this pretty grass adapts well to many other areas and makes a nice decorative accent or focal point in beds with flowers. 

The perennial grass grows in attractive, neat clumps as tall as five feet (1.5 m.) by the second season in the garden. Each clump is approximately 20 inches (51 cm.) wide. The leaves of Siberian melic are light green, long, and thin. The stems arch and produce panicles with flowering spikes in the summer. 

What is most striking about Siberian melic is the color of the flowers. They are a deep reddish purple and glossy. They look lovely in a garden bed or border, but the flower spikes are also great additions to cut arrangements. Although not native to the US, Siberian melica attracts birds to the seeds as a food source. 

Growing Siberian Melic

You can grow Siberian melic easily in USDA zones 4 through 8. You can grow it from seed or from transplants if you can find it at your local garden center. Full sun is ideal for Siberian melic, but it will be fine in partial shade. The soil does not need to be particularly fertile but should drain well. 

Once established, Siberian melic care requirements are low. It may need some watering to get established and during droughts but otherwise will grow well with little intervention. Keep the grass in place in the fall for visual interest in the winter garden. Trim the old foliage back in early spring as new growth appears. You can propagate Siberian melic by division in spring.

Landscaping difficult to manage areas of the yard can be quite challenging. Among the most common issues related to these spaces are those relating to light, soil fertility, and drainage. Gardeners first need to conduct careful research regarding certain plants’ ability to withstand these specific conditions within flower beds. Those with heavy clay soils may find it especially difficult to establish thriving borders. Fortunately, several robust and adaptable species of ornamental plants are available. Ornamental grasses are just one example of such plants. 

Ornamental Grass for Clay Soil

The use of ornamental grasses in the landscape has gained quite a bit of popularity among homeowners in recent years. Though the plants do not generally produce the bright and colorful flowers so commonly associated with flower beds, ornamental varieties of grass have much to offer. 

Ornamental grass in clay soil also provides a great source of year-round interest in the landscape due its wide array of unique textures. Furthermore, these easy to grow ornamental grasses can serve as a valuable habitat for native wildlife in the garden. 

Will Ornamental Grass Grow in Clay Soil?

When it comes to growing ornamental grass, clay soil is seldom an issue. In fact, many species of ornamental grass for clay soil are able to withstand harsh growing conditions, such as excessively wet soil and/or cold temperatures. 

How to Grow Grass in Clay

Learning how to grow grass in clay is quite similar to growing in other soil types. While many native species of grass can be grown from seed, most ornamental types used in the landscape are planted from specific cultivars which can be found at local garden centers or specialty plant nurseries. Though these plants are generally hardy, gardeners will still need to consider growth requirements for the various types of ornamental grass. This includes special attention to both moisture requirements and hours of sunlight needed. 

When choosing ornamental grass for clay soil, always take into account the plants’ size at maturity. While some species remain quite small, other types may grow to reach great heights. 

At planting time, make certain to consider proximity to sidewalks, buildings, and other structures. Like most perennials, ornamental grass in clay soil may need to be divided after several seasons in order to keep the landscape looking neat and tidy. 

Sheep grass plants are native to Europe but widely planted in North America. They are an important part of wild grass plains and are used as forage for livestock. Sheep fescue grass is drought tolerant, slow growing, and thrives in infertile soil. A characteristic of fescues is that they are a tufted perennial with easy adaptive qualities. Sheep grass in gardens needs to be carefully managed to minimize pop up plants from self-sowing and control where it grows.

About Sheep Fescue Grass

Sheep fescue growing is generally for agricultural and livestock purposes. As an ornamental grass, it lacks elegance but is excellent used in a wild meadow landscape scheme. It can provide food and cover for birds and other animals. Best of all caring for sheep grass is simple and easy. This is a hardy, self-sustaining plant. 

Sheep grass plants are true grasses in the family Poaceae. The plant is considered a cool season grass and has superior tolerance to different soils, drought, and cold. The dwarf bunchgrass has narrow, semi-erect blades. Plants can grow up to 12 inches (31 cm.) tall. Sheep grass produces dense panicles which develop into narrow seeds. Seeds are windborne and the plant is a hermaphrodite and self-seeds readily. In the wild it is found in both acidic and alkaline soil, in sun, or even shade. In North America it is used in mountains, open forests, and foothills from Alaska to New Mexico. 

Tips on Sheep Fescue Growing

You may sow this grass anytime of the year provided soil is workable. It is slow growing and is generally sown with a ground cover seed that will help protect young seedlings. It cannot withstand soggy soil but almost any other condition suits it just fine. It will even survive fire, but it takes a few years for full recovery. 

Seeds can be surface sown or drilled. Provide moisture until plants are several inches high (8 cm.). In field situations control competitive weeds initially, but once established, the dense root system creates its own weed control. Sheep grass in gardens can be mowed to prevent seed dispersal and give the stand a uniform appearance.

Caring for Sheep Grass

This is a very tolerant plant and needs little care. Its primary pest is the grasshopper and it is resistant to most turf grass fungal diseases. Since the plant self-seeds, it may be necessary to remove the panicles before seed crack and dispersal. 

Once the plant is mature it will green up in March and produce seed by July. Much of the growth occurs in spring and it is not unusual for plants to turn brown in summer unless consistently watered. If the plants turn brown there is no cause for alarm, as the plants will return the following spring.

Flame maiden grass brings movement to the garden in the form of 3 to 4 foot (0.9 -1 m.) tall arching stems that change from green to a brilliant orange-red in the fall. The ornamental grass continues its show through winter with sustained burgundy foliage and white tipped flower heads. 

Hardy in USDA growing zones 4 to 8, Miscanthus ‘Purpurascens’ makes a fine statement as a specimen planting as well as for screening, mass groupings, or a hedge. It is perfect for cottage gardens, wildflower meadows, and near ponds and water gardens. 

Flame Maiden Grass Info: How to Grow Flame Grass

This naturally small-sized flame grass ‘Purpurascens’ is a low maintenance, clumping grass. Flame-grass care couldn’t be easier. Plant flame maiden grass in full to part sun in well-drained clay, loam, or sandy soil. This plant prefers more moisture than similar ornamental grasses, however, it is drought tolerant. Summer’s heat and humidity are not a problem for flame grass. 

After cutting back the old foliage in late winter, the slender green leaves quickly regrow. As summer progresses, the leaves slowly turn reddish, culminating to a brilliant orange-red in fall, then darkening to burgundy by winter. Leave the foliage standing for winter interest and to protect the roots from extreme weather. 

Plumes Arrive

In late summer, 8 to 10 inch (20-25 cm.) long seed heads form, starting out light pink, then fading to silvery white. The attractive white plumes can be cut and dried for decorative use. The seed heads are not usually fertile, preventing aggressive spreading. Birds enjoy the seeds, though, bringing wildlife value to the planting. 

More Info

Flame grass ‘Purpurascens’ is not usually bothered by disease and insects, but in some areas, Miscanthus mealybugs and Miscanthus blight are becoming prevalent. 

Flame-grass Miscanthus can be gown near a black walnut tree (black walnut trees are allelopathic, meaning they can be detrimental to other plants), is deer resistant, and tolerates air pollution.

One of the best ways to create drama and movement in the landscape is by the use of ornamental grasses. These stoic plants are known for their tenacity, beauty, and ease of care. But what kind of grass grows best in sand? Finding ornamental grass that grows in sand isn't as hard as one might think. Many of these plants were developed from dune and desert grasses. So the ornamental grass/sandy soil combination is actually quite possible. Most prefer well draining soil, have low nutrient requirements, and many are often cultivars of plants that grow in sandy regions. Plus, ornamental grass for sand is versatile and adaptable. 

What Grass Grows on Sand? 

Sandy sites can be tricky places to plant. They either will need soil amendment or you have to choose plants that are naturally at home in gritty, inhospitable soil. Enter ornamental grass for sand. Many of the varieties are suited for such substrate, making ornamental grass sandy soil an almost perfect combination. But first, you must learn which genera are the most content in that environment. Then you can pare down to your favorite cultivars. Some of the genera most tolerant of sandy soil are:

• Festuca
• Phormium
• Pennisetum
• Panicum
• Cyperus
• Carex
• Deschampsia
• Acorus
• Miscanthus
• Helichtotrichon
• Nassella
• Calamagrostis
• Chondropelatum

Selecting Ornamental Grass That Grows in Sand

Before you get shopping, consider how large you want your plants. Miscanthus, for example, can get quite tall and wide. You don't want grasses blocking your view unless you are looking for privacy. Some grasses are evergreen, but many are not. Be prepared to have brown winter foliage and cut back the blades in early spring to make way for a new flush of growth if you select deciduous varieties. Check plant tags carefully to see what the plant's average water needs will be. If you don't want to water daily, make sure you select one with low moisture requirements. Consider using mulch around the root zone to conserve moisture and keep soil cool. Also make sure the plant will be hardy in your zone. 

What Kind of Grass Grows Best in Sand?

Once you have considered the site conditions and decided the sizes of grass you require, it is time for the fun stuff. Shopping. Here are some almost fool proof cultivars for the sandy soil garden. 

• Cape Rush- Fairly large grass 4-6 feet (1.22-1.83 m) tall. Evergreen.
• Feather Reed Grass- A slender medium sized grass of 4 feet (1.22m). 
• Switch Grass- A large grass with blue green foliage and large panicles that persist into winter. 
• Flax Grass- Broad attractive blades in many colors and variegations.
• Dwarf Umbrella Sedge- Looks great in groupings or as borders.
• Japanese Sedge- Comes in green, gold, and variegated varieties. A clumping evergreen grass.
• Sweet Flag- Golden, green, and variegated. Arching blades, compact habit.
• Blue Oat Grass- Tall blades with a narrow profile. Evergreen and unfussy.
• Pink Muhly Grass- Produces an airy cloud of panicles cover arching foliage
• Pampas Grass- A very large specimen ( 6 feet/ 1.83m). Wonderful huge plumes in summer through fall.

Incorporating ornamental grass in Northwest gardens is an increasingly popular choice and with good reason. There are dozens of choices available in which northwest gardeners can choose from. Interested in growing northwestern ornamental grasses? Read on to learn about Pacific Northwest ornamental grasses. 

Why Plant Ornamental Grass in Northwest Gardens? 

Pacific Northwest ornamental grasses add movement to the landscape. They can soften the hard edges of large rocks or boulders and contrast with perennials. There are so many types of suitable northwestern ornamental grasses, from those that thrive in shade to sun or dry conditions to wet. Ornamental grass for northwest gardens has year-round interest. Plus, grasses in general are often drought tolerant, pest free, and low maintenance. 

Cool Season Ornamental Grass for Northwest Landscapes

Grasses are usually categorized by grouping into cool and warm seasons and evergreens. Cool season grasses begin growing in late winter or early spring, thrive in cooler temps, and should be cut back to the ground in late winter or early spring. They need to be divided more to keep them looking good or they tend to die back in the center. 

Options for cool season ornamental grass for Northwest regions include:

• Blue Fescue
• Hakone grass
• Tufted Hair grass
• Feather Reed grass
• Blue Oat grass
• Rattlesnake grass (Perennial Quaking grass) 

Warm Season Pacific Northwest Ornamental Grasses

Warm season grasses enjoy warmer temps and are drought tolerant. They begin to grow when soil temperatures have warmed. They should be pruned back to between four and six inches (10-15 cm.) in the late spring or early summer of the following year. Examples of warm season Pacific Northwest ornamental grasses include:

• Japanese Blood grass
• Zebra grass
• Blue Wild Rye 
• Switch grass
• Pennisetum/purple fountain grass (there are a number of varieties) 

Evergreen and semi-evergreen grasses should be cut back in the late winter to early spring if needed. Giant feather grass (Stipa gigantean), or Golden Oats, is an example of an evergreen ornamental grass for a northwestern landscape. It grows up to two feet (61 cm.) tall with rolled blue/green leaves and blooms with spires of gold blooms in the summer that can reach up to four feet (1 m.) in height. It tolerates coastal conditions with heavy winds in full sun but should not be planted in the wetter areas of the region. Gophers love it but deer don’t bother it.

If you are looking for plants for an area of full sun, try growing sun loving ornamental grass. Full sun ornamental grass gives year round interest, is easy to grow and there are dozens of varieties on the market. Not all ornamental grasses likes full sun; some like a bit more shade, so be sure to read the following on ornamental grass for sun before planting it in full sun. 

Ornamental Grass Sun Exposure

Not all ornamental grasses are created equal. Some, like many sedges and tufted hairgrass, like partial shade, while others such as June grass and Northern sea oats prefer full shade. 

That said there are plenty of sun loving ornamental grass options. 

Ornamental Grass in Full Sun

So you want to grow ornamental grass in full sun. No problem. First you need to identify what type of habit you are looking for. Some grasses clump and some spread. Spreading grasses are usually taller with more “wow” factor while clumping grasses form short mounds. 

Almost all ornamental grasses are perennials which go dormant in the fall or winter. Some, like bamboo, are evergreen. Some are bunch grasses or tussock grasses while others form complex rhizomous systems. 

In height, ornamental grasses may run from a petite couple of inches (3 cm.) to a whopping 65 feet (20 m.) or larger. Know what to expect before investing in full sun ornamental grass. 

Types of Ornamental Grass for Sun

The sedges (Carex) usually like partial shade, but they also thrive in full sun provided they have moist soil. These evergreens are perfect for underplanting larger trees and shrubs or even container grown and are low growing sun loving ornamental grasses. 

Fescue is a very popular ornamental grass for sun, in fact it is even feature in some turf mixes. Some of the most popular include blue, California, atlas and sheep fescue. Fescue of any type is considered to be low growers. 

Indiangrass (Sorghastrum) is a group of native prairie grasses with feather seed heads that are perfect for open sunny meadows. If you are looking for a groundcover, liriope species come in spreading and clumping forms that tolerate both sun and shade. 

Other low growing ornamental grasses that grow to between 1-3 feet (30 cm. to just under a meter) for sun include fountain grass, love grass, and blue grama grass. 

Taller Sun Loving Ornamental Grass Varieties

Ornamental grasses that top out at 4-5 feet (1-1.5 m.) in height include switchgrasses like ‘Shenandoah Red’ or ‘Northwind’, little bluestem grasses such as ‘Prairie Blues’ or ‘Standing Ovation’ and smaller fountain grasses such as ‘Purple’, ‘Karley Rose’ or ‘Red Head’. 

The larger ornamental grasses are dramatic but remember you do need adequate room for them. Many of these larger grasses grow almost as wide as they do tall and may need staking especially in windy areas. 

If you’re looking to make a statement then try planting one of these large, 6-10 foot (2-3 m.) full sun ornamental grass specimens. Pampas grass is a classic ornamental grass revered for its splendid white (or pink in the case of pink Pampas) plumes. 

Tall Maiden grass such as ‘Goldbreeze’ is another good choice for sunloving ornamental grasses. It can be invasive however and the wider leaved cultivars may need staking. 

Lastly, Ravenna grass, often referred to as ‘Pampas grass’ erroneously is one of the tallest of the ornamental grasses for sun; often topping out at 10 feet (3 m) or more. This grass can also be invasive. 

Eastern gamagrass plants are native to the eastern U.S. and can grow as tall as eight feet (2 m.) high. Although once prevalent across eastern states, European settlers allowed animals to overgraze gamagrass and it is now rare to find it in natural settings. As a grass for forage or hay, it is highly productive and easy to grow. 

About Eastern Gamagrass

Tripsacum dactyloides, or eastern gamagrass, is a native perennial. It is a warm season bunch grass that grows well in soil that is well-drained but also in poor-draining soils. It is well-adapted to wetter areas and can tolerate flooding. 

Among native grasses, gamagrass is one of the most productive. It is an excellent grass to grow if you have livestock needing summer forage. It is also a good option to make hay. Overgrazing destroys gamagrass quickly, though, so make sure you rotate it and when cutting to make hay, leave six to eight inches (15-20 cm.). 

When to Plant Gamagrass

Gamagrass is often planted with corn between the rows. This can provide a good guide for when to plant gamagrass. Start the seeds during early corn planting with the corn first, followed by gamagrass. Generally, you’ll be planting in the spring and the soil should have reached 55 degrees F. (13 C.)

How to Plant Eastern Gamagrass

Germination of eastern gamagrass seed can fail if you skip the stratification process. This means wet-chilling the seeds at about 35 degrees F. (2 C.) for several weeks before planting. You can also buy seeds that are already stratified. Plant the seeds in prepared soil and at a density of about ten pounds of seeds per acre. 

When planting eastern gamagrass, weed control is important. Pre-emergent weed treatments, or planting with corn and other grasses, can help manage weeds. After one year of successful growth with the gamagrass established, weeds shouldn’t be a problem. 

Also avoid harvesting any of the grass until one year of good growth. Also be sure that you rotate livestock if using gamagrass as forage. Rotational stocking will ensure that the grass is not overgrazed.

Ornamental grasses are often a favorite plant group. Their sound in the wind, the diversity of form, color, and plumed flower heads are all opportunities for beauty in the landscape.

Most are perennials, making them enduring and gorgeous additions to the garden. However, some invasive ornamental grasses can occur in certain climates. In such cases, ornamental grass control must be swift and decisive.

About Invasive Ornamental Grasses

Ornamental grass management is necessary with many species of these elegant waving plants.

Part of what makes them so attractive are their plumed, feathery inflorescences, but that is also what makes them such a problem. The seeds are windborne and will result in a host of baby plants. If that isn't the propagation method, many grasses spread from rhizomes and can become a nuisance.

In springtime, any grass that wasn't evergreen starts coming back up. It is also the time when the offspring begin to appear, and there can be multitudes. It is interesting that what is a problem in one region may not be in another part of the country.

The secret seems to be in determining the native region of the grass, method of propagation, and your zone's resemblance to that native region. The closer your zone resembles the water, light, and temperature of the grasses’ native land, the more likely the grass will spread and become a problem.

Ornamental Grass Management

In certain regions, killing ornamental grass sprouts in spring is just a part of enjoying these delightful plants. You can minimize pop-up babies by removing the inflorescence in fall before they are mature and start sending out seed. Unfortunately, you cannot enjoy the seasonal interest these impart well into winter.

Plants that spread through rhizomes are easy to manage by trenching. Either create a barrier around the plant so the rhizomes don't spread or cut around the root zone of the plant in the summer so the rhizomes are confined and don't create offshoots. New plants should be checked annually for the presence of seed heads and new individuals.

Hand weeding is adequate if you are vigilant about the grass. Mechanical tilling and even grazing have been shown to be effective methods of managing potentially invasive species.

If natural ornamental grass control is not working or the plant has been allowed to get out of hand, organic herbicide may be in order.

It is important to check with your local extension office before planting a potentially invasive species.

Ornamental grasses are trouble-free plants that add texture and motion to the landscape. If you notice the centers dying in ornamental grass, it just means the plant is getting older and a little tired. A dead center in ornamental grass is typical when plants have been around for a while.

Centers Dying in Ornamental Grass

The best way to prevent ornamental grass dying in the middle is to divide the plant every two or three years. However, if your ornamental grass center is dying, you may need to dig and divide the entire plant.

The best time to divide ornamental grass is in spring, before new growth emerges. Be sure to have a sturdy, sharp spade on hand; digging a large clump isn’t an easy task. Here’s how to go about it.

Fixing a Dead Center in Ornamental Grass

Water the ornamental grass thoroughly a couple of days before dividing. The plant will be healthier and easier to dig.

Prepare new planting spots if you want to plant the divided sections. You can also share the sections with friends or neighbors, but they should be planted as soon as possible. In the meantime, keep them cool and moist.

Cut the plant to a height of 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm.). Insert a sharp spade straight down into the soil a few inches (8 cm.) from the clump. Repeat, working your way in a circle around the ornamental grass. Dig deeply to cut the roots.

Lift the plant carefully, using the spade or a knife to cut any remaining roots. You can leave a healthy clump in its original spot, or dig and replant the section. If the plant is very large, you may need to lift a chunk at a time. This won’t damage the plant, but try to leave each section with several healthy roots for replanting.

Discard or compost the dead center. Water the newly planted section(s) deeply, then mulch around the plant with organic material such as compost, shredded bark, dry grass clippings, or chopped leaves.

Ornamental grasses are low maintenance perennials that add interest to the landscape year round. Because they require minimal care, a reasonable question to ask is “do ornamental grasses need fertilizing?” If so, what are the feeding needs for ornamental grass plants?

Should I Feed my Ornamental Grasses?

Many ornamental grasses have become popular staples in the colder hardiness zones both for their cold tolerance and visual interest throughout the fall and winter seasons. Generally, ornamental grasses are not cut back until the early spring, which allows the grassy fronds to add some aesthetic value during a time when most plants are dormant.

Once established and in their second year from planting, ornamental grasses require very little maintenance beyond occasional division and cutting back, or cleaning them up in the early spring. But do ornamental grasses need fertilizing?

Not really. Most grasses prefer to live sparsely with fairly low levels of fertility. Fertilizing ornamental grasses with the same food you use on the lawn might seem logical, but think about what happens when the lawn gets fertilized. The grass grows very rapidly. If ornamental grasses go on a sudden growth spurt, they tend to flop over, losing their aesthetic value.

Ornamental Grass Feeding Needs

Feeding ornamental grass plants a supplement of nitrogen may, indeed, result in plants that flop over, but giving them just a touch of fertilizer can increase their size and the number of seedheads they produce. If your grasses take on a faded color and look less than vigorous, a small amount of fertilizer will perk them up.

When fertilizing ornamental grasses, remember that less is more; err on the sparse side when feeding the plants. A general rule of thumb is to apply ¼ cup (59 ml.) per plant in the spring as growth starts back up. You may also choose to apply a slow release fertilizer in the spring and water it in well.

Again, allow the color and vigor of the plant to tell you if it needs any supplemental food. Most grasses do very well when they are more or less ignored. The exception is Miscanthus, which does better with additional fertilizer and water.

The best option is to lightly amend the soil with an organic fertilizer (rotted manure, compost, leaf mold, mushroom compost) at the time of planting to feed the plant slowly over a long period of time.

Large clumps of ornamental grass are impressive, but don’t disregard the value of low growing ornamental grasses. Available in a wide array of forms, textures, and colors, short ornamental grasses are a simple to grow and require very little maintenance.

Small Ornamental Grass Varieties

Like its taller cousins, small ornamental grass varieties are highly resistant to pests and disease that can overtake other, less hardy plants. They make great accents in a garden border. When planted in mass, short ornamental grasses create a groundcover that few weeds can penetrate.

Below are some popular types of ornamental grass that stay small and make great additions to the landscape:

• Dwarf Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon spp.): This 4 to 6 inch (10-15 cm.) plant is bright green with blue flowers in the summer. Dwarf mondo grass does well in full sun or partially shaded areas. Best for USDA zones 5 through 9 with well drained soil. It is deer and rabbit resistant when used as groundcover or in rock gardens.
• Japanese Forest Grass (Hakonechloa macra): This plant grows 12 to 18 inches (31-46 cm.) and is a bright golden-yellow color with tan to reddish brown blooms in late summer and early fall. Japanese forest grass does well in partial shade with average, moist soil but doesn’t tolerate clay or soggy soil. Best grown in USDA zones 5 through 9, it is a deciduous bunchgrass that provides a colorful groundcover.
• Ice Dance Japanese Sedge (Carex morrowii ‘Ice Dance’): Growing 6 to 12 inches (15-31 cm.), Ice Dance Japanese sedge is dark green in color with creamy white edges as well as white blooms. Plant in partial shade to full sun using moist, well-drained soil. Best for USDA zones 4 through 9, its slow growing mounds work well in containers.
• Blue-Eyed Grass (Sisyrinchium angustifolium): This grass gets 12 to 18 inches (31-46 cm.) tall. It is a dark green with dainty blue, purple, or white flowers in late spring or early summer. Grow in USDA zones 4 through 9 with partial shade to full sun and moist, well-drained soil. Blue-eyed grass is great for containers or rock gardens and also attracts butterflies.
• Baby Bliss Flax Lily (Dianella revoluta ‘Baby Bliss’): This blue-green colored plant grows 12 to 18 inches (31-46 cm.) tall. Its blooms are a pale violet in late spring and summer. Does best in partial shade to full sun in nearly any well-drained soil. Baby Bliss Flax Lily tolerates drought and salt sprays and is best suited for USDA zones 7 through 11. 
• Elijah Blue Fescue Grass (Festuca glauca ‘Elijah Blue’): This blue fescue grass grows up to 12 inches (31 cm.) tall and is a powdery blue, grown for its foliage. Best in USDA zones 4 through 8 in full sun areas. It requires well-drained soil. Great plant for small spaces and withstands the summer heat.
• Variegated Liriope (Lirope): Also known as monkey grass, this plant is deer resistant and attracts hummingbirds to the area. It is dark green with vibrant yellow stripes, growing 9 to 15 inches (23-38 cm.). Variegated Liriope blooms are clusters of blue or white flowers in summertime. Grown in any well-drained soil in deep shade to full sunspots. Best for USDA zones 5 through 10.

Ornamental grasses are an interesting, low-maintenance addition to the landscape. You may use several plants to fill a bare corner or line the garden path. Limited care and ornamental grass pruning are mainly all that’s needed to keep them attractive.

When Does Ornamental Grass Need Pruning?

Several varieties of ornamental grasses, some tall, some short, are used to help design the landscape. Many have colorful seed heads that make them even more attractive. Regardless of the type, however, most will benefit from pruning in some manner.

There are two seasons of growth for ornamental grasses, cool season and warm season. If you’re not aware of which type you’ve planted, just keep an eye on when the growth begins. This may help answer your questions about pruning ornamental grasses.

Some types of grass begin growth in late winter to early spring while others don’t sprout new growth until later in the spring season. Cutting back ornamental grass is best done before this growth begins.

Some of us like to keep the grass as a winter feature in landscapes that would otherwise be bare. If grasses provide winter interest in your landscape, wait until late winter to cut them back.

How to Prune Ornamental Grass Plants

Many grasses will appreciate a good trim. You’ll have growth soon and your grasses will fill the chosen spot. If growth seems slow, or has not begun by late spring, you may consider fertilizing your specimens.

Learning how to prune ornamental grass often includes removing dead or damaged blades as opposed to cutting back the whole clump. Comb it with a small, fine toothed rake to easily get your clump back in shape. Prune dead blades at the bottom if they don’t come out with combing. You may also comb with gloved hands.

For taller grasses, bind them about a half a foot (15 cm.) up and prune at that point. Depending on the height of your grass variety, you may prune them lower, but don’t cut flush with the ground.

Limited pruning of ornamental grasses helps keep them looking their best. Take the time to keep them in shape as needed.

If you have more time than money and like growing your own landscape plants, try ornamental grass division. Most landscapes have an area, or even several spots, where some type of grass would look perfect. With a clumping habit, taller varieties sway in the breeze. You likely won’t find this plant in every neighbor’s yard, so use it to make your landscaping unique.

When to Divide Ornamental Grasses

If you have large areas that would benefit from being filled with ornamental grasses, or walkways and paths that would be attractive if lined by these plants, try growing from divisions. Most ornamental grasses grow easily and quickly from just a small start.

A hollow center indicates when to divide ornamental grasses. Usually division every two to three years is appropriate.

Dividing ornamental grasses is best done in late winter or early spring before growth starts. Divide even a small plant if you want to grow more. As long as roots are present, you can expect a nice clump by autumn.

How to Divide Ornamental Grass

Learning how to divide ornamental grass is simple. Large clumps are best taken from the sides of a growing mound with a square tipped spade or shovel. You may dig the entire plant, split in half, and replant. If it’s been several years since division, you may divide into quarters.

If you have a friend or neighbor with large clumps of grasses, offer to help them out and get some starts that way. Or purchase small plants at the garden center with a growth period before division. Mondo grass, monkey grass, and larger types, like pampas and maiden grass, are expensive, especially when purchasing several, so division is practical.

The best growth of these plants usually occurs when planted in full sun, but be sure to check your type. Some ornamental grasses prefer dappled sun or partial shade.

Ornamental grasses are fascinating, versatile plants that add color and texture to the garden all year, usually with very little attention from you. Although it’s uncommon, even these super tough plants can develop certain problems, and yellowing ornamental grass is a sure sign that something isn’t right. Let’s do some troubleshooting and figure out the possible reasons why ornamental grass is yellowing.

Ornamental Grass Turning Yellow

Here are the most common reasons for dying ornamental grass in the landscape: Pests: Although ornamental grass isn’t typically bugged by insects, mites and aphids can be the reason why ornamental grass is yellowing. Both are tiny, destructive pests that suck the juices from the plant. Mites are difficult to see with the naked eye, but you can tell they’ve been around by the fine webbing they leave on leaves. You can see tiny aphids (sometimes en masse) on stems or the undersides of leaves. Mites and aphids are usually easily controlled with insecticidal soap spray, or even a strong blast from a garden hose. Avoid toxic pesticides, which kill beneficial insects that help keep harmful pests in check. Rust: A type of fungal disease, rust begins with tiny yellow, reddish, or orange blisters on the leaves. Eventually, the leaves turn yellow or brown, sometimes turning black by late summer and early fall. A severe case of rust may be to blame when ornamental grass turns yellow and dies. The key to dealing with rust is to catch the disease early, and then remove and dispose of affected plant parts. To prevent rust, water ornamental grass at the base of the plant. Avoid overhead sprinklers and keep the plant as dry as possible. Growing conditions: Most types of ornamental grass require well-drained soil, and the roots may rot in soggy, poorly drained conditions. Rot can be a big reason why ornamental grass turns yellow and dies. Similarly, most ornamental grasses don’t need a lot of fertilizer and too much can cause yellowing ornamental grass. On the other hand, a nutrient deficiency can also be to blame for ornamental grass turning yellow. It’s important to know the needs and preferences of your particular plant. Note: some types of ornamental grass turn yellow to brown towards the end of the growing season. This is completely normal.

Ornamental grasses can be an excellent addition to flower beds and landscape borders. Coming in a wide range of shapes and sizes, their dramatic plumes and color can offer homeowners stunning visual interest when arranged with other ornamental plants. Their carefree growth habit, in addition to the ease at which ornamental grass seed propagation can occur, make these grasses an excellent choice even for novice growers.

Collecting Ornamental Grass Seeds

Often, one of the most rewarding aspects of gardening is the process of collecting seed and propagating plants within the garden. This cost effective and economical strategy can help gardeners create beautiful outdoor spaces, even when restricted by tight budgets.

Like many other plants, the process of harvesting grass seed is quite simple. However, before you begin collecting ornamental grass seeds, there are a few considerations to examine. Most notably, growers should take into account whether the plant is a hybrid or open pollinated variety of grass. While many cultivars will grow true-to-seed, it is possible that the offspring of some hybrid varieties may not look exactly like the parent plants.

How to Save Ornamental Grass Seeds

Even though some ornamental grasses readily reseed and spread in the garden, other varieties may need assistance. As with any plant in the landscape, collecting ornamental grass seeds requires patience. Seeds developing along the grass plume or seed head must be allowed to fully and completely mature before it is removed. This will help to ensure the best possible seed when it comes time to plant.

When seed has matured, it is important to immediately remove the seed heads from the plant. If left too long, seeds may begin to drop onto the ground or be eaten by birds and insects. Allow the seed heads to dry one to two additional days after they have been removed. Allowing seeds to dry further is a necessary step to avoid mold or other issues which may occur when the seed is stored.

The process of harvesting the seeds can leave plant matter, called chaff, mixed with the seeds. To remove these plant pieces, growers can gently blow it away with the use of a small fan or outdoors on a breezy day. Store the seeds in a dry, dark place until it is time to plant.

Ornamental grasses provide many attractive functions in the garden. Most are extremely adaptable and produce seductive sound in gentle breezes combined with elegant motion. They are also generally low maintenance and suffer few pest problems. 

Shady ornamental grasses have traditionally been difficult to find, as many of the commercial offerings are geared towards sun locations. New releases and a clamor from gardeners have seen the options increase in recent years, with numerous lovely ornamental grass for shade available.

Choosing Shade Loving Ornamental Grass

Those dark, shady areas of the garden are often difficult to populate with exciting plant specimens. It is a common problem and one that horticulturalists and growers have worked hard to solve. Enter shade loving ornamental grass. Today's garden centers have a wide variety of low growing or tall, statuesque specimens that thrive in low light. 

Selecting a variety that suits your shade garden specifications has never been easier. Choosing an ornamental grass for shade should start with evaluating the other site conditions. Is the area dry, boggy, heavy clay, rocky? What is the soil pH and does the soil need conditioning? Most gardeners have a good gauge on their garden issues and can vet the area's issues quickly. 

Other considerations might be what, if any, sunlight gets into the location. Is it partially shady during some of the day, or fully dark all day long? Some plants can adapt to a bit of sun during the day while other grasses will become sunburnt. In the hot southern regions, even full sun grasses benefit from shade during the brightest part of the day. 

Once site considerations have been accommodated, the size and growth habit of the plant are the next thing to take into account.

Partially Shady Ornamental Grasses

Many grasses perform well in either partial or full sun. Partial shade often means the shade is during just part of the day or it can be a dappled light area. Some good selections might be Japanese forest grass or sedge plants. These all need moist soil to thrive but can withstand either full or partial light locations. 

In warm climates, cool season grasses that usually grow in full sun become shade loving ornamental grass. Some examples of this type of plant are tufted hairgrass, striped tuber oat grass, and crinkled hairgrass. Other partial shade selections to consider include:

• Fall blooming reed grass
• Korean feather reed grass
• Autumn moor grass
• Blue grama grass
• Liriope
• Little Miss maiden grass

Ornamental Grass That Grows in Shade

Full shade locations can look dreary and benefit from plant selections that brighten the area with variegation or warm colors. Golden lilyturf is a stellar performer in both full shade and partial shade locations. 

Mondo grasses are delicate little plants that make excellent borders or mass plantings and can be used as groundcover in shade locations. Variegated river oats has arching foliage with appealing striping. 

Similarly, Hakone grass, which produces blades in a soft, gentle yellow, will brighten dark corners. Sweet flag is one of the better options for a shady pond or consistently wet area. Other ornamental grass that grows in shade areas are:

• Northern sea oats
• Mosquito grass
• Berkeley sedge
• Junegrass
• Variegated bulbous oat grass

Ornamental grasses are gorgeous, eye-catching plants that provide color, texture, and motion to the landscape. The only problem is that many types of ornamental grasses are too large for small to midsize yards. The answer? There are many types of dwarf ornamental grass that fit nicely into a smaller garden but provide all the benefits of their full-size cousins. Let’s learn a little more about short ornamental grasses.

Ornamental Dwarf Grass

Full-size ornamental grass can tower 10 to 20 feet (3-6 m.) over the landscape, but compact ornamental grass generally tops out at 2 to 3 feet (61-91 cm.), making some of these smaller types of compact ornamental grass perfect for a container on a balcony or patio. Here are eight popular dwarf ornamental grass varieties for smaller gardens – just a handful of the many short ornamental grasses currently on the market. Golden Variegated Japanese Sweet Flag (Acorus gramineus ‘Ogon’) – This sweet flag plant reaches a height of around 8 to 10 inches (20-25 cm.) and width of 10 to 12 inches (25-31 cm.). The lovely, variegated green/gold foliage looks great in either full sun or partial shade settings. Elijah Blue Fescue (Festuca glauca ‘Elijah Blue’) – Some blue fescue varieties can get somewhat large, but this one only attains a height of 8 inches (20 cm.) with a 12 inch (31 cm.) spread. The silvery blue/green foliage dominates in full sun locations. Variegated Liriope (Liriope muscari ‘Variegated’ – Liriope, also known as monkey grass, is a common addition to many landscapes, and while it doesn’t get that large, the variegated green with yellow, striped plants can add that extra bit of pizzazz you’re looking for in the smaller space, reaching a height of 6 to 12 inches (15-31 cm.) with a similar spread. Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon japonica) – Like liriope, mondo grass retains a much smaller size, 6 inches (15 cm.) by 8 inches (20 cm.) and is a great addition to areas lacing in space. Prairie Dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepsis) – Prairie dropseed is a fascinating ornamental grass that tops out at 24 to 28 inches (61-71 cm.) in height with a 36 to 48 inch (1 m.) spread. Bunny Blue Sedge (Carex laxiculmis ‘Hobb’) – Not all sedge plants make suitable specimens for the garden, but this one creates a nice statement with its pleasing blue-green foliage and small size, typically around 10 to 12 inches (25-31 cm.) with a similar spread. Blue Dune Lyme Grass (Leymus arenarius ‘Blue Dune’) – The silvery blue/gray foliage of this attractive ornamental grass will shine when given partial shade to full shade conditions. Blue Dune lyme grass reaches a mature height of 36 to 48 inches (1 m.) and a width of 24 inches (61 cm.). Little Kitten Dwarf Maiden Grass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Little Kitten’) – Maiden grass makes a lovely addition to nearly any garden and this smaller version, only 18 inches (46 cm.) by 12 inches (31 cm.) is the perfect fit for small gardens or containers.

The sway and rustle of ornamental grasses produce not only graceful beauty but a symphony of soothing sound. In most cases, dividing ornamental grasses is recommended every few years once they are established. This gives you the "2 for the price of 1" effect that budget minded gardeners appreciate, as well as increases and enhances the growth of the plants. Ornamental grass propagation is easiest with this method, but some produce well with seed. Some notes on how to propagate ornamental grass will get you on your way to more free plants and a tumult of waving blades and gentle landscape movement.

Ornamental Grass Propagation

I have a little area I call my "Pointy Garden." This is where all my ornamental grasses reside and provide an effective border and xeriscape ease. Every few years, the plants need to be dug up and divided. It is often obvious when this needs to be done, as the grass may have a dead patch in the center or simply fail to produce a thick crown of leaves. Propagation of ornamental grasses is through this division or from volunteer plants that have come from the prolific seed of many popular varieties.

How to Propagate Ornamental Grasses with Seed

Many grasses produce flowering stems that are also attractive and full of feathery seeds. Ornamental grass propagation through seed is fairly easy. Collect seed when they are dry, usually in fall. Take the whole stem and allow the flower stalk to dry in a cool, dry place. You may choose to store them, but the best germination is with fresh seed. Surface sow in good potting soil with just a dusting of sand on top. Water until the container is evenly moist and then place in a plastic bag or top with a plastic dome. Germination differs by species, but once you have seedlings with two sets of true leaves, transplant them to larger pots to grow on. Harden them off in spring and install them in prepared containers or beds.

Dividing Ornamental Grasses

Seed is not the only method of propagating decorative grasses. A faster and more reliable method for the propagation of ornamental grasses is through division. Many perennial plants benefit from division. You simply dig up the plant when it is going dormant and cut it into two or more sections with healthy roots and leaves. Use very clean, sharp implements to make your cuts and discard any rotten or dead plant matter and roots. Replant immediately and keep moist as the disturbed piece settles into its new home. By doing this, you can increase your stock of ornamental grasses every few years. Variegated forms need to be propagated by division in order to preserve the variegation. Variegated ornamental grass propagation will result in plain leaves, unlike the parent plant. Only cloning the plant material will retain the attribute.

Care After Propagating Decorative Grasses

Seeded species may be better off raised in containers for one to two years until they are large enough to fend for themselves. Actual care will depend upon the species, as some prefer dry conditions and others need consistent moisture. Follow the same cultural care required by the parent plant. In all cases, keep competitive weeds from around the root zone and add a layer of organic mulch to protect roots and rhizomes in cold temperatures and conserve moisture. Divided plants may grow in containers or in-ground. Watch carefully for stress from sun, insects, and diseases, like fungal issues. Most propagation of ornamental grasses is straightforward and takes no special skill but has exponential rewards.

Whether you want to make a subtle statement or a big impact, ornamental grasses can be just the right design detail for your landscaping. Most of these grasses need very little care and thrive on neglect, so they're perfect for even novice gardeners to grow. One of the few problems you may have with an ornamental grass plant, however, is the stems falling over, otherwise known as lodging of ornamental grasses.

Causes of Ornamental Grasses Falling Over

Preventing flopping grass in the garden is easier once you understand why ornamental grass falls over. Most of the problems associated with flopping ornamental grass is because of gardeners taking too much care of the plants, not too little. The most common cause of ornamental grasses falling over is too much nitrogen in the soil. If you have a habit of fertilizing your ornamental plants on a regular basis, you'll be causing the problem you're trying to avoid. Give these plants one application of 10-10-10 fertilizer first thing in the spring just as the grass blades begin to sprout. Avoid any more fertilizer for the rest of the year. Another reason your ornamental grass may flop over is that it has grown too big. These plants benefit from being divided every three or four years. Once they grow to an overly large size, the sheer weight of the mass of grass blades can cause the entire plant to bend down and fall over. Divide the plants in spring before any fresh shoots appear and plant each new grass clump far enough away so that it doesn't shade its neighbors.

How to Fix Falling Ornamental Grass

So how do you fix falling ornamental grass once it's happened? If the damage has been done and your ornamental grass has fallen over, you can give it a quick fix until the stems are strong enough to hold themselves up again. Simply pound a stake or length of rebar into the ground in the very center of the grass clump. Wrap a strand of garden twine that matches the grass around the entire clump, about halfway up the stalks. Tie the twine loosely enough so that the grass can move naturally, but tightly enough so that the strands all stand up in one vertical clump.

Ornamental grass plumes provide texture, sound, and motion to the home landscape. Most varieties are easy to care for and have few problems or pests. If there are no plumes on ornamental grass in your garden, there are a few possible causes. They may be cultural, site-related, due to age, or just due to plant variety. We will show you how to get an ornamental grass to plume and enliven your landscape with these unique structures.

Ornamental Grasses with Plumes

There is a wide range of ornamental grasses with plumes. These might include pampas grass, Miscanthus, and fescues. The plume is the plant's version of a flower and produces seed. They are airy, sometimes colored inflorescences that grow up above the slender foliage on sturdy stems. Female plumes are larger and more feathery, while male plumes are thinner and narrow. Most pluming grasses need full sun locations and well-drained soil. Failure to provide the proper growing conditions may prevent the grass from flowering. Ornamental grass plumes remain on the plant long into the cool season and make wonderful additions to cut or everlasting flower displays. Plants that develop no plumes on ornamental grass may have other underlying causes. It is important to correct these for continued enjoyment of the graceful plumes.

Reason for No Plumes on Ornamental Grass

Grasses that fail to flower in spite of good growing sites may be exposed to excess nitrogen. This promotes growth of foliage and minimizes formation of plumes. Grasses that are cut back at the wrong time of the year will also fail to flower. For most ornamental grasses, the best time for cutting is in spring, but in milder climates, you may also prune in fall. Do not cut them back in summer, as the forming flower stalks will be removed. Another factor that prevents flowering is age. Very young starts will not flower until mature. This may be up to three years after planting. Old plants can also fail to form plumes. Much like any perennial plant, flowering slows down as the crown gets old. You may also find that the plant is thinner and grows fewer blades. The solution is division early in the season.

How to Get an Ornamental Grass to Plume

Vigorous, healthy plants have the root spread and energy to produce plumes. Cut back the plants in late winter to early spring to allow air and light in to the new growth. These are important components for photosynthesis, the plant process that harvests solar energy and turns it into fueling carbohydrates. While ornamental grasses should not get a high level of nitrogen, they need some fertilizer annually. Feed them with a slow-release food or light mulch of compost in spring. Alternately, feed four times per year with a complete fertilizer at the rate of two pounds per 100 square feet (9 sq. m.). To correct an issue of no plumes on ornamental grass due to too much nitrogen, offset it with some high phosphorus fertilizer. Bone meal is a good fertilizer in this case. Divide your grass every three years or as growth begins to slow. Dig the plant out carefully in spring and cut the crown into sections. Replant the healthiest chunks with good root growth. These will renew and produce superior plants.

Ornamental grasses provide a unique texture, color, height, and even sound to the home garden. Many of these grasses can become invasive, as they spread by rhizomes but are well contained in garden pots. Growing ornamental grass in containers also gives you the ability to move tender specimens to sheltered locations when cold or inclement weather hits. Create an elegant, multi-dimensional planter by learning how to grow ornamental grass in a pot.

Ornamental Grasses for Containers

Ornamental grasses may be native or cultivated species that provide linear interest to the landscape. The most common species for use in containers are the true grasses and members of affiliated families such as sedge, rush, and bamboo. These vertical growers are easy to care for and need little supplemental maintenance. Caring for potted grasses is an excellent project for even novice gardeners. Choose grasses that are the appropriate size for your containers and suitable for your zone. A few suggestions of good ornamental grasses for containers include:

• Japanese blood grass
• Carex
• Fiber optic grass
• Melinus ‘Pink Champagne'
• Foxtail grass

How to Grow Ornamental Grass in a Pot

Growing ornamental grasses in containers is a successful gardening strategy as long as you choose the right species and pot. Use a mixture of compost, topsoil, and a light mix of grit for most grasses. The pot must have drainage holes and an unglazed or lighter colored pot will evaporate excess moisture better than a glazed, dark colored pot. Also, when growing ornamental grasses in containers, ensure that the pot is wide enough to encompass the arching blades of grass and deep enough for the root system.

Ornamental Grass Care for Container Gardens

Most grasses are self-sufficient. You can plant just one specimen in a pot solo or add some color and smaller species around the edges for an interesting display. Potted plants need to be watered deeply infrequently. Allow the pot to dry out between watering to a depth of several inches (8 cm.) unless you are growing a water loving species or marginal grass. Caring for potted grasses involves fertilizing them once per year at the start of the growing season. Every two years you will need to remove the plant, replace the soil mix, and divide the grass. Use a soil knife or sod saw to cut the roots and plant into two pieces. Pull or cut out the parts that are dying out and then replant each piece separately. Ornamental grass care for container gardens includes raking or pulling out the dead blades. Some grasses will die back in cold weather, which is signaled by all the blades becoming brown. You can leave them until late winter to early spring and then cut them back to a couple of inches (5 cm.) above the crown. Brand new blades will grow and fill in the plant as spring growth arrives.

Ornamental Grass Dresses Up Borders

Ornamental grasses come in a wide range of heights, colors, and textures, making them perfect for any space in the garden, especially a border where they can add a softer, more natural feel.

Most ornamental grasses are vigorous growers, requiring minimal care. Ornamental grasses also tend to be free of disease and insect pests. Their wispy, graceful foliage adds interesting form and texture to borders. Fine-textured grasses, for example, can create dramatic contrast within borders when placed next to other broad-shaped foliage plants and flowers.

Why Use Ornamental Grasses

There are practical reasons for adding ornamental grasses to borders.

Warm-season grasses wait until the weather starts warming up and are ideal for filling in spaces after spring bulbs and early flowering perennials have died back.

Cool-season grasses take over once fall blooming has ceased and many remain evergreen throughout winter. There are a number of other reasons to include ornamental grass in the border or landscape.

Color - Ornamental grasses also add color and year-round interest to the border. Nothing says color better than the myriad of color variations found in ornamental grasses. Some are evergreen; some are variegated with gold or white. Some varieties offer shades of blue and silver, while others are tinged in red or purple. Blue fescue is a low-growing, cool-season, clump-forming grass with silvery-blue foliage. Due to its small size, it is most often used as edging or planted in masses as a groundcover. On the other hand, if you're looking for vibrant color in the border, Japanese blood grass has upright, green foliage flushed with dark red. This vivid red color is at its best in autumn.

Seasonal interest - Ornamental grasses also provide borders with unending interest throughout the seasons. While ornamental grasses generally reach their peak during fall, they can also add texture, volume, and color to the winter garden. Many late-season grasses develop seed heads after their flowers have faded, and both the seed heads and plumes can add interest throughout winter. Their foliage also turns russet to golden-brown. Berries ripen in the fall and supply additional color and interest as well with shades of red, purple, and yellow.

Various types/sizes - They come in a range of sizes, from dwarf and low-growing grasses to medium and giant-sized grasses. The shorter, low-growing ornamental grasses are most often used as edging. Short grasses can also be used in small groups for a massing effect or in large groups as groundcover. Small clumping grasses, such as dwarf varieties of silver grass, provide a lovely border between plant beds and walkways while small spreading grasses, such as ribbon grass, make an excellent groundcover.

Mid-size grasses are used for vertical height and textures. Fountain grass, for instance, is a mid-size, warm-season, clump-forming grass that exhibits graceful, arching growth. In mid to late summer, fountain grass bears bottlebrush spikes, and its bright green foliage turns golden brown in the fall. It is because of its medium size and graceful appearance; this ornamental grass makes an excellent border plant. Medium grasses can also be used as accents among herbaceous perennials and shrubs as well as to define border areas.

The taller grasses are normally used to provide structure or a backbone for borders. These plants also make good accent plants among other border plants.

Choosing an Ornamental Grass for Your Border

When choosing ornamental grasses for borders, you should become familiar with their growing requirements as well as their characteristics. For instance, some spread vigorously; others form neat clumps.

Forms of ornamental grass that creep or self-sow can eventually become troublesome later on in a border, whereas those that form clumps or spread much slower make far better choices for this purpose.

Most ornamental grasses adapt easily to the same growing conditions that typical border plants require, such as well-drained soil. Most are well suited to full sun, but many varieties also thrive in shade. Some grasses can even be integrated into bog or water gardens, while others prefer heat, thriving in drought-like conditions.

Ornamental grasses are widely diverse as landscaping plants and can fit into nearly any garden style, and make any type of border their home.