Biscuitroot or Lomatium root is a member of the Umbelliferae (carrot or parsley) family and is found across much of western North America. Depending upon the source there are anywhere from 80 to 120 species primarily endemic to regions of the western U.S. Also known as desert parsley, Lomatium root has long been used as a food source by native people as well as for its medical benefits. 

About Biscuitroot

Lomatium root is a perennial that appears in the spring. Low growing, 2 to 12 inches (5-31 cm.), most species grow in arid regions during the early spring, seed, and then die back during the heat of the summer. The root survives underground. 

Most species of Lomatium root bear flowers borne in compound umbels and are usually white or yellow although rarely they may be purple to maroon. The seed pods of biscuitroot are generally papery or corky and winged to help with wind dispersal. 

The leaves of biscuitroot plant are basal and dissected often looking much akin to ferns. 

Desert Parsley Food Uses

The part of the plant that is used as a food source is the root which varies from short, stubby, and radish-like to long and slender. Rounder roots are 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) long while thin roots may be 4 to 12 inches (10-31 cm.) in length. In all cases, the root is covered with a thin black skin which should be peeled prior to using. 

The interior of biscuitroot is white and fibrous and can be eaten fresh like a carrot or boiled, roasted, or dried and then ground into flour to make a cake or biscuit. 

Species of Lomatium Root

One of the most commonly used species of biscuitroot is Lomatium dissectum or fernleaf biscuitroot. Often the first foraging food, Lomatium dissectum is also highly attractive to some species of bees. It is also one of the most widely used plant species of Native North American people as not only a food source but also medicinally and ceremonially. 

L. dissectum is found in dry lowland to middle elevation areas often coexisting with sagebrush, ponderosa pine, pinyon-juniper, and mountain brush. 

Other common species include Gray’s and Nineleaf biscuit root. The genus is difficult to identify (which accounts for the varied quoted number of species) and some habitats are under threat from grazing development and wildfire. L. dissectum in particular is of some concern as its habitat is being wiped out due to wild harvesting of the plant for herbal use. 

You don't have to be a foodie to recognize parsley. From its use as a garnish in upscale restaurants to the peppery-flavor it adds to culinary dishes, parsley is one of the most popular herbs in the U.S. And for good reason. It's super easy to propagate parsley from either seeds or cuttings.

How to Propagate Parsley From Seed

Growing parsley from seed is the most common method of propagation. Parsley can be direct-sown into a prepared garden bed after all danger of frost has passed in the spring. Seeds can also be started indoors 8 to 10 weeks earlier. 

Parsley can be slow to germinate. Using fresh seeds and soaking them in warm water for 24 hours prior to sowing will speed up the germination process. Sow the soaked seeds on top of the soil, then cover with 1/8 inch (.3 cm.) of loose soil. 

When growing parsley from seed, keep the soil moist but not soggy during the germination process. Gardeners can expect seedlings to appear within 2 to 5 weeks. 

Parsley seedlings can be thinned or transplanted once they reach 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.6 cm) tall.

Parsley prefers moist, well-draining soil with plenty of sun. Space your parsley seedlings 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm.) apart in a sunny spot in the garden. Or select a bright, southern-facing window when growing parsley indoors. 

Growing Parsley from Cuttings

If you don't have the patience or skill to start plants from seed, you can easily propagate parsley by rooting stem cuttings in water. Gardeners may find it useful to take garden cuttings in the fall and use this method for growing parsley indoors during the winter.

Begin with 4 to 6 inch (10-15 cm.) long stems trimmed directly below the lowest leaf node. Remove the leaves from the bottom 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) of the stem. Then place the prepared stems in a glass of fresh water and set it on a sunny window sill. Change the water as needed. 

When growing parsley from cuttings, it takes about a week for the hair-like roots to emerge from the leaf nodes. When the roots are about 2 inches (5 cm.) long, the cuttings can be potted. Keep the soil moist while the new plants become established.

Another Method to Easily Propagate Parsley

In warm climates, gardeners can also propagate parsley by allowing it to self-seed. As a biennial, parsley will regrow and produce seeds in its second year. Allow seed heads to mature. The seeds will fall to the ground where they will sprout for a continuous supply of fresh parsley.

In colder climates, gardeners may need to protect parsley roots by mulching in the fall or by moving potted parsley into a protected area after the foliage dies back. The following year seeds can be allowed to drop, or they can be collected and saved after the flower heads turn brown.

Giant of Italy plants (aka ‘Italian Giant’) are big, bushy plants that produce huge, dark green leaves with a rich, strong flavor. Giant of Italy plants are biennial in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 to 9. This means it grows the first year and blooms the second. It often reseeds itself to return year after year.

Uses for Italian Giant parsley are many and chefs frequently prefer this flat-leaf parsley over standard curled parsley in salads, soups, stews, and sauces. In the garden, this lovely plant attracts a variety of beneficial insects, including black swallowtail butterfly larvae. Giant of Italy parsley care and growing isn’t complicated. Read on to learn how.

How to Grow Italian Giant Parsley

Plant Giant of Italy parsley seeds indoors or start them directly in the garden in spring, when danger of frost has passed. You can also grow Giant of Italy plants in large containers. Seeds generally germinate in 14 to 30 days.

Giant of Italy plants grow in full sun and are more heat tolerant than curly parsley, but afternoon shade is beneficial in climates where summers are hot. Soil should be moist, fertile, and well-drained for successful Giant of Italy parsley growing. If your soil is poor, dig in a generous amount of well-rotted manure or compost.

Water plants as needed to keep the soil consistently moist but never soggy. A layer of mulch will conserve moisture and help keep weeds in check. If growing in containers during hot, dry weather, they may need water daily.

Giant of Italy parsley care may also include fertilization. Feed the plants once or twice through the growing season using a water-soluble fertilizer. You can also dig in a little compost or apply a fish emulsion fertilizer. Snip leaves as needed throughout the growing season or whenever the plants begin to look shaggy.

Curly parsley may be king as a garnish, but flat leaf parsley has a stronger, more robust flavor. Titan Italian parsley is an excellent example of a flat leaf variety. What is Titan parsley? It is a rather small leaved cultivar that grows in a wide variety of soils. Growing Titan parsley is possible in full sun or even light shade, adding to its versatility.

What is Titan Parsley?

Titan parsley is a neat, compact plant with small leaves packed with flavor. This adaptable parsley is a biennial and will need to be sown every two years for a consistent supply. It is easy to grow and has low maintenance needs and few disease or pest issues. Learning how to grow Titan parsley will make it easier to add this herb to your culinary cupboard.

The delicately noded leaves of Titan parsley almost resemble coriander (cilantro) but have a deeper green hue. Also, the smell and flavor are nothing like coriander but have a clean, almost grassy, taste and aroma. Plants can grow 14 inches (35 cm.) tall and have erect, slender stems. You can grow this parsley variety in USDA zones 5 through 9.

If allowed to bolt, the plant produces tiny, airy white flowers that are attractive to bees and some butterflies.

How to Grow Titan Parsley

Titan Italian parsley can grow in clay, loam, sandy, and most other types of soil. The very flexible plant readily germinates from seed directly sown in early spring. It even performs well in partially shady locations.

Expect germination in 14 to 30 days in temperatures of 65 to 70 degrees F. (18-21 C.). Thin the seeds to 12 inches (31 cm.) apart. In very cold regions, try growing Titan parsley indoors in flats and transplant outside when all danger of frost has passed.

Like most herbs, Titan is extremely hardy and can handle extreme conditions fairly well. It will survive brief periods of drought but does best with regular water. Few insect pests bother the plant. In fact, it attracts beneficial insects, such as ladybugs.

Side dress with compost in spring and spread organic mulch around the base of the plants in regions with freezing temperatures. Remove the flower heads to prevent seeding and redirection of the plant's energy into blooms rather than leaves.

Cut leaves any time as a garnish, parsley sauce, flavoring for soups and stews, or to dry for winter use.

Curly parsley grows in most every herb garden, often along with flat-leaved parsley. Many recipes only call for parsley. So, what to do? Let’s take a look at the differences in parsley varieties and learn more about curly parsley plant care and uses.

What is Curly Parsley?

This is an easy-to-grow type of parsley with round, curly leaves. The taste is stronger than that of the flat-leaf type and not too similar. Curly parsley uses include garnishing plates, often along with a fruit slice. You may also chop it finely and use as the parsley called for in those recipes, although the round curly leaves require more effort to wash than the flat-leaved type.

This is part of the reason restaurants use flat parsley, as well as for its milder taste. The home gardener can easily grow both types of parsley and, depending on the recipe, decide whether to use curly parsley vs. flat parsley. You might get creative and use both.

How to Use Curled Parsley

Using parsley in a dish along with other herbs basically includes it as an additional layer of flavor that complements other herbs. Since the taste is different between the two parsleys, the final flavor may be somewhat different.

Experiment with the two herbs and see which flavor you prefer in different dishes. Parsley also adds color to your cooking. You might want to add less, or even more. Since parsley is so easy to grow, you can always have it on hand.

Curled Parsley Plant Care

Start curled parsley from seed when temperatures warm outside. For an early crop, plant seeds indoors a few weeks before outside soil temperatures warm. You may purchase young plants that are already hardened off and plant them outside when all danger of frost is passed.

Parsley is a low-maintenance plant needing sunlight, regular water, and occasional feeding. Harvest regularly to promote growth. It is a biennial plant, meaning it grows for two years. Most treat it as an annual and allow it to be taken by frost the first year. 

If you wonder what to do with curly parsley during winter, add it to an indoor winter herb garden or start a young plant in summer and pot it for indoors. If you live in an area where the plant can live outside during winter, it will continue to grow and produce. However, leaves will likely become tough and bitter during the second year.

Be sure to include this easy-care specimen in your herb gardens, both indoors and outside. It may be dried or frozen for long-lasting flavoring and garnish.

As a general rule, most herbs are fairly hardy and tolerate somewhat adverse conditions. Many even repel insects. Parsley, being an annual herb, is a bit pickier and more sensitive than say, rosemary or thyme. A fairly common occurrence is white tips on parsley. Why does parsley have white tips? White parsley tips may be caused by a number of things. Read on to find out what to do about parsley with white leaf tips.

Why Does My Parsley Have White Tips?

If you see white tips on your parsley, don’t panic. The most common reasons for white parsley tips are not earth shattering and are easily remedied. More than likely, the parsley has white leaf tips because of an environmental issue. This may be overexposure to wind or sun that is damaging the plants cells. If this is the case, the plant is still edible although not as aesthetically pleasing. Move the plant to a more sheltered area and remove the damaged leaves. It should bounce back in no time. Another reason for parsley with white leaf tips is lack of water. Just as too much wind or sun can stress the plant, so can drought. Be sure to give your plant an inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week depending on weather conditions and be consistent about watering. On the note of a lack of water is a lack of nutrients. The white tips may be the plants way of telling you it needs more nutrition, especially if the parsley is being grown in a pot. If the plant is in the ground, lightly side dress and work in some organic fertilizer. If it is in a pot, fertilize with a basic soluble food or fish/kelp emulsion. Another very common reason for the tips of the herb to become white is simply that the leaves are done. This is probably the case if the white tipped leaves are predominantly the outer, or older, leaves. Harvest parsley more frequently to avoid getting the white tipping. Remember, herbs like to be harvested. Pinching them back will actually get the plant to begin to grow new, succulent green leaves. White tips on parsley are no cause for concern and usually the fix is quick and simple. If, however, you have white spotting on other areas of the plant, you may be dealing with a more serious problem. You may have an insect problem, such as leafminers, or the plant may have a fungal disease, but as long as the damage is confined to the tips of the leaves, especially the older, outer leaves, the above solutions should fix the plant right up.

Unlike hardy sage, rosemary, or thyme, cultivated parsley does seem to have its share of disease issues. Arguably, the most common of these are parsley leaf problems, usually involving spots on parsley. What causes leaf spots on parsley? Well, there are actually a number of reasons for parsley with leaf spots, but of these, there are two major parsley leaf spot diseases.

Parsley Leaf Spot Problems

One reason for parsley with leaf spots may be powdery mildew, a fungal disease fostered by low soil moisture along with high humidity. This disease starts on young leaves as blister-like lesions followed by curling leaves. The infected leaves then become covered with white to gray powdery mildew. Severely infected plants may suffer leaf drop, especially with young leaves. Low soil moisture combined with high humidity levels at the plant surface favor this disease. Spots on parsley leaves may also be caused by bacterial leaf spot, which manifests itself in different ways. In the case of parsley leaf spot resulting from bacterial leaf spot, angular tan to brown spots lacking mycelia growth or fungal structure appear either on the top, bottom, or edge of the leaf. Infected leaves may become papery and easily crushed. Older leaves are more likely than new ones to become infected. While both of these diseases are of some concern, they can be treated with copper fungicide at the first sign of infection. Also, plant resistant strains when possible and practice good garden sanitation.

Other Diseases that Cause Parsley with Leaf Spots

Septoria – An even more common leaf spot disease is septoria leaf spot, which is introduced via infected seed and may survive on infected dead or dried leaf detritus for several years. Early symptoms are small, depressed, angular tan to brown lesions often surrounded with red/brown margins. As the infection progresses, the interior of the lesion darkens and becomes dotted with black pycnidia. Neighboring, overwintered, or volunteer plants are also possible sources of infection. The disease is spread either during rainy periods of under overhead irrigation, through people or equipment moving through the wet plants. Spore growth and increase of infection is fostered by mild temps and high humidity. Stemphylium – More recently, another fungal leaf spot disease caused by Stemphylium vesicarium has been identified as afflicting parsley. More commonly, S. vesicarium is seen in garlic, leek, onion, asparagus, and alfalfa crops. This disease presents as small leaf spots, circular to oval in shape and yellow. The spots begin to enlarge and turn tan to dark brown with a yellow corona. In severe cases, the leaf spots merge together and the foliage yellows, dries and then dies. Usually, the disease attacks older foliage, but not exclusively. Like septoria leaf spot, it is introduced on infected seed and spread with splashing water from overhead irrigation or rainfall combined with activity around the plants. To control either of these diseases, use disease resistant seed when possible or seed that has been treated to reduce seed-borne diseases. Use drip irrigation rather than overhead. Rotate to non-host crops for at least four years in areas the disease has been present. Allow room between susceptible plants to allow for air circulation. Practice good garden sanitation and remove or deeply dig in any crop detritus. Also, allow the plants to dry from rain, watering, or dew before moving amongst them. Apply a fungicide according to the manufacturer’s instructions at the earliest sign of symptoms. Combine cultural controls and potassium bicarbonate to organically certified crops.

Parsley root, Petroselinum crispum, is also known as root parsley, Dutch rooted parsley, turnip rooted parsley and parsnip rooted parsley. It is also more commonly referred to as Hamburg parsley root. Let's learn more about this interesting plant.

History of Parsley Root

With a common name like Hamburg parsley root, one would naturally guess that this unique vegetable has its origins in Germany. While the history of parsley root has it as a popular "suppengrun" (soup green) in Germany since the 16th century, parsley root has also been a popular green and root vegetable in Austria, Hungary, Poland, Holland and Russia for centuries. That being said, the plant is believed to have first been used in cooking in Hamburg, Germany. Its edible root is kept in the ground through winter and dug up as needed for hearty stews and soups. It is said that a touch of frost improves the flavor. Hamburg rooted parsley looks similar to Italian parsley. Its edible greens are used the same as both Italian parsley and curled parsley are used. However, Hamburg parsley root has edible tubers that look kind of like a cross between a parsnipand a carrot. The flavor and texture is somewhere between the two as well. The tubers have a rough white-beige skin and is whiter beneath the skin. They grow approximately 6 inches long and 2 inches wide, though the Hamburg half long varieties are shorter and stubbier. Hamburg rooted parsley can be eaten raw, like a carrot, but it is usually sliced with the skin on and cooked in stews or soups. It contains Vitamin C, iron and sodium. In Europe, the greens are usually harvested and used as needed throughout the spring, summer and fall. The leaves will only keep fresh for a couple days, so only take what is needed. While the tubers take much longer to mature, they are usually harvested as needed in fall or winter. It can also be planted in fall for spring and early summer harvests.

Growing Hamburg Rooted Parsley

Hamburg root parsley is actually a biennial, but it is usually grown as an annual. It requires consistently moist soil to develop properly and for better taste and texture. In heavy clay soil or dry soil, parsley root may be prone to forking into two smaller tubers. The half long varieties are said to tolerate poor soil better. Seeds germinate best after stratification or a cold period. This can be simulated by placing seeds in the refrigerator a few weeks before planting. Sow seeds directly in the garden in early spring. They are slow to germinate at about 3-5 weeks before they sprout, and it then takes at least 90 days until root maturity. This parsley variety is often planted alongside radishesand lettuce. Like all parsley plants, it is a host plant for swallowtail butterflies.

Many of us cultivate herbs for use in cooking or for medicinal use. We normally plant the usual standbys parsley, sage, rosemary, mint, thyme, etc. If you’re finding your herbs a bit ho-hum, you should try introducing some Japanese Mitsuba parsley into the garden. What is Japanese parsley and what other interesting Mitsuba plant info can we unearth?

What is Japanese Parsley?

Japanese Mitsuba parsley (Cryptotaenia japonica) is a member of the Apiaceae family, which includes carrots. Although it is technically a biennial/annual herb, Japanese parsley use is more commonly cultivated as a vegetable in Japan. Mitsuba may also be found under the names Purple-Leaved Japanese Wild Parsley, Mitsuba, and Purple-Leaved Japanese Honewort. Plants are low growing, about 18-24 inches (45.5 to 61 cm.) tall by 8 inches (20.5 cm.) across with heart-shaped, lightly ruffled leaves borne off of purple/bronze stems. The plant flowers light pink in mid-summer.

Japanese Parsley Uses

Mitsuba is native to eastern Asia. It can be used in shade gardens where its foliage contrasts nicely with other shade lovers such as:

• Hostas
• Ferns
• Solomon’s seal
• Columbine
• Lungwort

In Asian cuisine, Japanese parsley is used as a seasoning, a potency tonic, and the leaves and roots are cooked as a vegetable while sprouts are eaten in salads. All parts of the plant are edible from roots to seed; however, some people report toxic effects (dermatitis) from repeated contact and toxicity from eating large quantities of the plant. The flavor is said to be akin to celery combined with parsley, sorrel, and coriander. Yum!

Additional Mitsuba Plant Info

The lovely trefoil leaves are sometimes used in Japanese flower arranging (Ikebana). The stems are tied into a knot to decorate traditional Japanese dishes designed to bring good luck to the happy couple. This is a moderately growing plant that prefers moist conditions in shaded areas. It is not winter hardy and will die back, but have no fear, Mitsuba readily self-seeds and another crop will undoubtedly be peeking up from the soil in the spring. Some folks report that Japanese parsley can be invasive. If you want to have more control of where it will spring up, be sure to cut back the blossoms before they go to seed.

Growing Japanese Parsley

Japanese parsley can be grown in USDA zones 4-7 in, as mentioned, a moist, shady area – ideally under trees. Unlike other herbs, Mitsuba wants to stay damp but, like other herbs, doesn’t want “wet feet,” so there is a fine line here. Be sure to plant Japanese parsley in an area with good drainage. When growing Japanese parsley, sow seeds in April indoors or wait until temps have warmed outside and direct sow. Germination is fairly rapid. When the seedlings are small, they must be protected from slugs and snails, who apparently adore the flavor as well. Other than these guys, Mitsuba has no significant pests or problems. Harvest Japanese parsley a few leaves at a time in bunches just as you would any other herb. Use fresh or add to cooked dishes at the last minute. Overcooking Mitsuba will destroy its wonderful aroma and flavor.

Parsley root (Petroselinum crispum), also known as Dutch parsley, Hamburg parsley, and rooted parsley, shouldn’t be confused with the related leaf parsley. If you plant curly or Italian flat-leaf parsley expecting a big, edible root, you will be disappointed. If you plant parsley root, however, you’ll get a big, parsnip-like root, as well as greens, that can be harvested and regrown throughout the summer. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow parsley roots.

What is Parsley Root?

Though its root sets it apart, parsley root is indeed a variety of parsley. Parsley is a member of the carrot family, which goes a long way to explain its appearance. Although its root could be mistaken for a parsnip or a white carrot, its flavor is most similar to celery. Its texture is dry like a parsnip, however, and it can be cooked like one. The leaves are broader and tougher than those of herb parsley varieties, and their flavor is stronger and a bit more bitter. They’re great for garnish, or as an herb when you want a bold taste.

How to Grow Parsley Root

Parsley root plants can be grown from seed. The roots need a long growing season to develop, so start them indoors five to six weeks before the last frost date if you live in an area with hard winters. Germination can take as long as three weeks, so soak the seeds for 12 hours in warm water first to help it along. When your parsley root plants are 3 inches (8 cm.) tall, harden them off outdoors, then transplant them when all risk of frost has passed. In hot areas without frost, plant your parsley root plants during the cool season in autumn, winter, or early spring. Growing parsley root plants like rich, loamy soil and frequent watering. They can also be grown in containers provided they are deep enough to accommodate the long roots. Parsley root harvesting happens in phases. If you’re after the leaves, cut the outer stalks off at ground level to encourage new growth. Always leave the inner stalks in place. At the end of the growing season, dig up the entire plant and separate the stalks from the root. Store the root in damp sand or peat and freeze or dry the leaves.

Parsley is one of the most commonly cultivated herbs and is featured in many dishes as well as being used as a garnish. It is a hardy biennial that is most often grown as an annual throughout the spring and summer months. To keep a continuous supply of fresh parsley year-round, you might ask, “Can you grow parsley in winter?” and if so, "does parsley need special care in the winter?"

Growing Parsley in Winter

So, the answer to the question “can you grow parsley in winter?” is… sort of. To fully understand about growing parsley in winter, it’s helpful to know a bit more about the lifecycle of parsley. Parsley is grown from notoriously slow germinating seed in the spring. To hasten germination, the seed should be soaked in water overnight before planting. Grow parsley in moist, nutrient rich, well-draining soil in either full sun or dappled shade. Soil temperatures should be around 70 degrees F. (21 C.).

Parsley in Cold Weather

Parsley is a bit persnickety about temperature. As mentioned, although it is a biennial, it is usually grown as an annual. That is because if you try to overwinter it, the resulting plant generally bolts (produces a seed stalk) in its second season, which results in bitter, tough leaves. That’s why most people replant each season. Parsley in cold weather conditions doesn’t bode well. That said, protecting the parsley plants can allow you to overwinter them.

Winter Care for Parsley

So how do you care for parsley in the winter? Cut the plants back in the early fall and apply about 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) of mulch around them. The mulch keeps the ground from freezing and thawing in the winter. This makes it less likely that the roots will become damaged. Another way to care for parsley in winter is to dig some plants up and bring them inside. This can be a bit tricky. Parsley plants have a long taproot which can be difficult to dig up in its entirety. Dig deep to get the entire taproot and then provide the plant with a deep pot to accommodate the root. Plant the dug-up plants in the deep pot, water well, and then leave them outside for a few weeks in a shaded area to recover from the shock of transplanting. Then bring them in and place them in a sunny window. They should last through the fall and given enough light, may even produce new leaves. By late winter, however, leaf quality decreases since the plant’s life cycle is nearing an end and it is preparing to go to seed. At this time, you should deposit the aging parsley in the compost bin and start some new seeds inside for spring planting of parsley.

It’s inevitable, but there are a few things that can delay it. What am I talking about? Bolting parsley plants. Basically that means that suddenly your parsley has flowered and then the parsley plant has gone to seed. Read on to find out what to do when your parsley bolts.

What to Do When Parsley Bolts

By the time the parsley plant has gone to seed or bolted, it’s too late. The best idea is to learn how to keep parsley from bolting in the first place, or at least how to slow down the inevitable process. If your parsley plant is bolting, it will likely have not much left in it. Probably the best idea is to pull it up and replant.

How to Keep Parsley from Bolting

Bolting usually occurs when the weather goes into overdrive and rapidly heats up. The plant does the same, flowering rapidly and setting seeds. At this juncture, the plant also stops producing leaves. Before you get to that point of no return, what can be done to prevent parsley plant bolting? The following tips may help keep parsley from bolting:

• First of all, keep or move parsley to a cooler or lightly shaded area, especially if temperatures soar.
• Plant your parsley earlier in the spring to allow the herb to utilize the cool growing season. No matter what, the plant will likely bolt as temps heat up, but you will have more time to harvest.
• On the subject of harvest, as with all herbs, the more leaves you harvest, the more energy the plant focuses on regrowing foliage and not flowers. Don’t get too scissor happy though. Only take one-quarter to one-third of a stem at any one time. Again, this will work for a while, but the plant will eventually bolt. If the plant does begin to flower, nip them in the bud, literally. Pinch the flowers off ASAP.
• Lastly, to thwart bolting parsley plants, stagger plantings of parsley. Start the seeds indoors and then gradually introduce the seedlings to the outdoors. Begin by placing them outside just in the morning for a week and then gradually increase their time outside. If you live in a scorching hot region, be sure to do this in an area with dappled shade or place the seedlings under or behind a larger plant that will shade them somewhat.

You can also try growing parsley indoors on the windowsill or the like. The temperature indoors is often more comfortable for us as well as the parsley.

Parsley is a staple of the cottage garden with numerous herbal and culinary uses. It is easy to grow and there are several varieties from which to choose. Parsley plant problems are rare, but a few insects and fungal diseases can become troublesome. Most disease pathogens affect the foliage, but a few diseases of parsley can attack the crown and roots and cause the plant to die. Preventing parsley plant diseases begins with good site control and cultivation.

Problems with Parsley Plants

There are very few cuisines that don’t taste and look better with a bit of fresh parsley, but this old-fashioned herb is more than a garnish on your breakfast plate. It has a history of use as wreaths and garland, medication, and flavoring. Growing parsley is simple once you get over the slow germination hurdle and it is easy to harvest in a progressive manner, so a fresh supply is always available. Parsley plant problems are usually pest related, but occasionally, a plant will become afflicted with a disease. Some of the more common symptoms are listed here as well as a guide to treatment for the various diseases of parsley. The tasty herb is a favorite of insects, rabbits, and grazing wild animals. If you can keep your parsley from succumbing to these munchers, you still have some other obstacles with which to contend. Aster yellows, for instance, is a disease of parsley that is transmitted from leafhoppers. Parsley is a member of the same family as carrots and celery and is prey to similar diseases. The most common issue is fungal disease. These come in many forms and generally afflict plants in moist regions or when unseasonably wet, warm weather is present. Soil borne pathogens transmit to the plants from the roots or by splattering onto the leaves. Overhead watering and improper circulation cement the formation of fungal spores and their transport. Cultural care is essential to preventing these forms of parsley plant diseases.

• Crown/root rot – Crown and root rot are associated with soggy soil. The perpetrators are both a fungi and bacteria found in soil that burst into action when the ground is moist. Leaves turn yellow and brown followed by stems and the entire plant discoloring and dying. Roots will blacken and decay and new shoots will not form.
• Leaf Spot – Another of the common problems with parsley plants is leaf spot, caused by the Septoria fungus. Yellow spots show up on the foliage and darken to brown with a golden halo. Leaves wilt and occasionally fall off. The entire plant is weakened by the disease. The fungus is seed borne or splashed onto plants. This is considered the most important of the parsley plant diseases and has caused entire crops to fail.
• Blight – Blight is caused by the fungus Botrytis and is also called gray mold. The disease starts out with brown to black spots on the leaves. White-gray fungal growth is sported on all leaf surfaces over time. Leaves fail to thrive and die.

Treating Parsley Diseases

There are a few varieties of parsley that are resistant to the most common diseases, among them ‘Paramount.’ If seed is not available from one of the resistant varieties, cultural control is often effective at combating these diseases. Use a drip line to water plants and irrigate in the morning so there is plenty of time for the parsley to dry. Practice crop rotation to prevent soil borne pathogens from infesting successive crops. Thin the herbs to encourage circulation and plant parsley in a sunny location. Air and sunlight are crucial to treating parsley diseases. Some fungal diseases will respond to sulfur fungicide applied at the first sign of infection. If plants are already heavily infested and failing, pull them up and discard them and start anew.

Most herbs are easy to grow in well-drained soil and bright light, and parsley is no exception. This common herb has a rich history of use for flavoring, medicine, ritual purposes and it even freshens your breath after a meal. Wilted parsley plants may represent a water issue or even disease. Refreshing wilted parsley might be as simple as providing water, but be cautious. Too much moisture can have a similar effect and may promote rot, a condition the plant can’t overcome.

Why a Parsley Plant is Wilting

You’ve planted a variety of herbs in your cottage garden or a window box and now it’s time to let them flourish and begin using them in your favorite dishes. One day you look out the window and wonder, “Why is my parsley plant wilting?” Site conditions, lighting, moisture levels, disease, damping off and even failure to harden off seedlings can cause limp leaves and stems. Put on your Sherlock Holmes hat and let’s walk through a few possible causes and solutions. If young plants are wilting, it may be a symptom of damping off or you may have forgotten to harden off seedlings. Damping off is caused by a fungus that favors overly moist, warm conditions. Often grayish fuzz will appear at the base of the plant, which will eventually rot off the stems, separating them from the life-giving roots. Wilted parsley plants may also come about due to improperly exposing new plants to the outdoors. Indoor grown seedlings require some time to adapt to outdoor lighting, wind and temperature circumstances. Gradually exposing them to the outside setting will give them a chance to adapt and prevent stress, sun and wind burn and other issues. A few diseases are the cause when a parsley plant is wilting. Stem rot and leaf spot will cause yellowing foliage and eventually limp leaves. Destroy these plants.

Cultural Care of Parsley Plants

Parsley is fairly easy to grow provided the soil drains freely and the plants get adequate light. Plant parsley in moist, rich soil that has been loosened deeply. This will promote deep rooting and help plants uptake water and nutrients. Spread mulch loosely around the plants to prevent weeds and conserve moisture. Parsley likes consistent moisture but cannot tolerate boggy soil. Keeping the soil evenly moist will make for happy plants, but too much or too little water can cause wilting. Full sun locations in the summer may also see limp leaves and stems appearing during the middle of the day. This is because the plant is evaporating more moisture than it can uptake. Watering them is not always the correct response to refreshing wilted parsley. Try shading them during this time of day. Usually the plants perk up in the evening and morning.

How to Revive Wilted Parsley

Container grown plants need more water than those in the ground. Check the soil to a depth of 3 inches (7.5 cm) with your finger. If it is dry, water until the pot leeches the soil through the drainage holes. You may also want to move the container to a lower light situation in the hottest part of the summer. If soil doesn't drain freely, wait until the cool of evening and dig the plant up. Incorporate some sand or other gritty matter to increase percolation. Replant the parsley and water it in. It may seem wilted for a few days due to shock but should eventually recover.

Parsley is a very popular herb among gardeners. A classic garnish on so many dishes, it’s especially useful to have on hand, and since cutting stalks only encourages new growth, there’s no reason not to give parsley some space in your garden. It’s a well-known rule that some plants grow better next to others, however, and with parsley there’s no exception. Keep reading to learn more about plants that grow well with parsley, as well as those that don’t.

Parsley Companion Planting

Companion planting is the age-old trick of knowing which plants grow better next to other plants. Some plants encourage certain others to grow, while others inhibit them. Plants that are mutually beneficial are called companions. Parsley is a great companion crop, encouraging the growth of plenty of plants around it. Of all the vegetables, asparagus benefits the most from having parsley nearby. Other plants that grow well with parsley include:

• Tomatoes
• Chives
• Carrots
• Corn
• Peppers
• Onions
• Peas

All of these are mutually beneficial with parsley and should grow well nearby. Lettuce and mint don't make good neighbors with parsley and should be kept far away from it. Maybe the most surprising parsley companion is the rose bush. Planting parsley around the base of the plant will actually make your flowers smell sweeter. Specific pairings aside, parsley is good for all the plants in your garden because of the insects it attracts. Swallowtail butterflies lay their eggs on the leaves, encouraging a new generation of butterflies to grow up in your garden. Parsley flowers attract hoverflies, the larvae of which eat aphids, thrips, and other harmful insects. Some harmful beetles are also repelled by the presence of parsley. Companion planting with parsley is that easy. Get started today and enjoy the benefits of growing other plants with this wonderful herb.

Parsley is probably the most commonly used herb. A member of the carrot family, Apiaceae, it is most commonly seen used as a garnish or as a mild flavoring in a multitude of dishes. As such, it's a must-have for an herb garden. The question is, when do you pick parsley and exactly where do you cut parsley for harvest?

When to Pick Parsley

Parsley is a biennial but is usually grown as an annual and is native to the Mediterranean. Like most herbs, it thrives in areas with six to eight hours of sun, although it will tolerate light shade. While it is often used as a garnish, parsley has more to give; it is high in vitamin C and A, as well as iron. Parsley is easy to grow either from nursery starts or from seed. Parsley seeds take a while to germinate so soak them overnight to hasten the germination rate. Then sow them ¼ inch (6 mm.) deep, spaced 4 to 6 inches (10-15 cm.) apart in rows 12 to 18 inches (31-46 cm.) apart. Keep the plants moist, about 1 inch (2.5 cm.) of water per week depending on the weather. Now that the plants are growing, how do you know when to pick the parsley? It takes between 70 and 90 days of growth before the plants are ready for parsley harvesting. The plants should have ample foliage. In some regions, seeds can be planted in the fall for early spring parsley harvesting and again in late winter for early summer harvest. Also, in some areas, parsley overwinters and you might be harvesting fresh parsley again in its second year.

How to Harvest Parsley

You’re ready to harvest your parsley but where to cut parsley is the question. Don’t be nervous; harvesting fresh parsley is easy. Just as with other herbs, parsley likes to be snipped, which encourages additional growth. Bunch the stems and leaves together and snip them off at ground level with kitchen shears. You can also just take a sprig or two starting with the outside stalks first. Be sure to cut at ground level though. If you just cut the leafy tops and leave the stems, the plant will be less productive. Either use the fresh herb immediately or place the whole thing in a glass of water and refrigerate until needed. You can also dry your parsley once it is harvested. Wash it and pat it dry, then allow the parsley to dry completely in a warm, airy place. Once the parsley is dry, remove the leaves from the stems. Discard the stems and store the dry parsley in an airtight container. You can freeze parsley as well. Both dried and frozen parsley should be used within the year, and the flavor will be much milder than when you use fresh parsley.

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Parsley is more than a frilly garnish. It marries well with most foods, is rich in vitamins A and C, and is a significant source of calcium and iron – all of which make it a must-have in the herb garden. Most of us buy our herb starts, but can parsley be grown from seeds? If so, how do you grow parsley from seed? Let’s learn more.

Can Parsley Be Grown from Seeds?

Parsley is a biennial that is primarily grown as an annual. It's suitable for USDA zones 5-9 and comes in both curly-leaf and flat-leaf parsley. But I digress from the question, can this herb be grown by seed? Yes, parsley can be grown from seed. You just might need to pack a little patience. Parsley takes a whopping six weeks to germinate!

How to Grow Parsley from Seed

Parsley, like most herbs, does best in a sunny area with at least six to eight hours of sun per day. Parsley seed growing should be done in well-draining soil that is fairly rich in organic matter with a pH of between 6.0 and 7.0. Parsley seed growing is an easy process, but as mentioned, requires some patience. Germination is very slow, but if you soak the seed overnight in water, the germination rate increases. Plant parsley seed in the spring after all danger from frost has passed for your area or start the seeds indoors in the late winter, six to eight weeks prior to the last frost date. Cover the seeds with 1/8 to 1/4 inch (0.5 cm.) soil and 4-6 inches (10 to 15 cm.) apart in rows 12-18 inches (30.5 to 45.5 cm.) apart. Mark the rows since germination is so slow. The growing parsley seeds look like fine blades of grass. Thin the seedlings (or transplants) when they are 2-3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm.) tall, spaced 10-12 inches (25.5 to 30.5 cm.) apart. Keep the plants consistently moist as they continue to grow, watering once a week. To help retain moisture and retard weed growth, mulch around the plants. Fertilize the plants once or twice during their growing season with a 5-10-5 fertilizer in the amount of 3 ounces per 10-foot (85 g. per 3 m.) row. If the parsley is being grown in a container, use a liquid fertilizer at ½ the recommended strength every three to four weeks. Your growing parsley seeds should be ready for harvest as soon as they are a few inches (5 to 10 cm.) tall and are growing vigorously. Just snip the outer stems from the plant and it will continue to grow throughout the season. At the end of its growth cycle, the plant will produce a seed pod, at which time harvesting your own parsley seeds is possible. Keep in mind that parsley crosses with other parsley varieties, however. You need at least one mile (16 km.) between varieties to get reliable seed. Just allow the seeds to mature and dry on the plants before harvesting them. They can be kept in a cool, dry area for up to two to three years and retain their viability.

Parsley is a mild-flavored herb, and parsley leaves are often used to create attractive garnishes for a variety of dishes. Rich in vitamins and minerals, the ruffled green herb is a flavorful addition to soups and other culinary delights. Although good old curly parsley is the most familiar, you might be surprised that there are many different kinds of parsley. Read on to learn about various types of parsley.

Types and Varieties of Parsley

Many people think some parsley types are best for garnish and others are best suited for cooking. Try them all, and you can make your own decision about the best parsley varieties! Curly (Common) Parsley – This standard type of parsley, versatile and easy to grow, is both decorative and edible. Curly parsley varieties include Forest Green parsley and Extra Curled Dwarf parsley, a fast-growing, compact variety. Flat-Leaf Parsley – Flat-leaf parsley is tall, reaching mature heights of 24 to 36 inches (61 to 91 cm.). It is appreciated for its culinary qualities, and is more flavorful than curly parsley. Flat-leaf parsley includes Titan, a compact variety that displays small, deep green, serrated leaves; Italian Flat Leaf, which tastes slightly peppery and looks a bit like cilantro; and Giant of Italy, a big, distinctive plant that tolerates a variety of difficult growing conditions. Flat-leaf parsley types are excellent additions to a butterfly garden. Japanese Parsley – Native to Japan and China, Japanese parsley is an evergreen perennial herb with a somewhat bitter flavor. The sturdy stems are often eaten like celery. Hamburg Parsley – This large parsley has thick, parsnip-like roots that add texture and flavor to soups and stews. Hamburg parsley leaves are ornamental and look a bit like ferns. Now that you know about the most common varieties of parsley, you can try them all and see which one(s) you prefer in your kitchen or herb garden.

My parsley is attracting butterflies; what’s going on? Parsley is a familiar herb that makes an attractive garnish or provides a bit of flavor and nutrition to soups and other dishes. Parsley is easy to grow and the ruffled leaves add beauty and interest to the herb garden. This is probably old news, but what you may not know is that parsley is a butterfly-friendly plant, and is especially beneficial for attracting black swallowtails, anise swallowtails, and others. Read on to learn about parsley attracting butterflies and tips for growing parsley for butterflies.

Eastern Black Swallowtail on Parsley

Parsley is suitable for growing as a perennial in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 9. By planting parsley, you’re doing a huge favor for eastern black swallowtail butterflies, as this species feeds only on a few plants, including:

• Dill
• Parsley
• Fennel
• Carrots
• Queen Anne’s lace

Providing parsley for butterflies can create a home for a native population that you can observe throughout their lifetime. Eastern black swallowtails, appreciated for their delicate beauty, are recognizable by their black wings, each marked with two rows of bright yellow spots, which are larger and brighter in males. The spots are divided by powdery blue markings, which are more pronounced in females.

Growing Parsley for Butterflies

Although parsley grows in a variety of conditions, it performs best in full sunlight and relatively rich, well-drained soil. Plant seeds directly in the garden after all danger of frost has passed in spring, or start them indoors six to eight weeks before the last average frost date in your area. Cover the seeds with about 1/8 inch (3 mm.) of soil or fine sand. Keep the soil slightly moist until the seeds germinate (be patient, as germination may be slow). Thereafter, water the plants deeply once a week. Thin the seedlings to a distance of 10 to 12 inches (25-31 cm.) between each plant when the seedlings are 2 to 3 inches (5-8 cm.) tall.

How to Attract Black Swallowtail Butterflies

If you’re serious about attracting black swallowtails and other butterflies to your garden, here are a few tips that will help.

• Avoid insecticides and other chemicals.
• Arrange a few flat stones in your garden. Butterflies need a place to rest and bask in the warmth of the sun.
• Place a tray of wet sand near your herb garden. Butterflies use the damp sand for extracting minerals and drinking water. Remember to keep the sand moist.

Will Caterpillars on Parsley Hurt Plants?

If you want to attract black swallowtails, don’t destroy the beautiful, brightly striped caterpillars! The butterflies lay their eggs on the parsley plants, which hatch into caterpillars. The caterpillars munch on leaves before pupating and creating a chrysalis. When the cocoon matures, it splits and releases a beautiful black swallowtail butterfly. The butterfly depends on the plant, but the plant won’t suffer.

If you plant an herb garden, by all means use it! Herbs are meant to be cut; otherwise, they get gangly or woody. Parsley is no exception and if you don’t prune it, you end up with leggy parsley plants. So what can you do about overgrown or leggy parsley plants?

Droopy, Leggy, Overgrown Parsley

If you have a drooping parsley plant or parsley plants falling over every which way, it may be too late, especially if the plant has blossomed and gone to seed. Don’t despair. Parsley grows rapidly from seed or you can get some inexpensive starts from the local nursery. Moving forward, however, you will want to learn how to trim parsley (and use it!) to avoid drooping and falling over parsley plants. Of course, if your parsley plant is droopy, you might just need to give it some water. If it doesn’t appear to be leggy and the temps have been high, some extra irrigation just might remedy the situation. If you ascertain that the parsley plant is droopy due to extreme temps and dry soil, trim the plant back and water it generously. Trimming parsley increases the yield of the plant. If it is not occasionally thinned, it loses vigor. Cutting it back will also prevent it from taking over and choking out other plants or herbs. Also, parsley flowers should be routinely cut back or pinched. If allowed to go to seed, you'll have more parsley than you know what to do with. When you remove the blossoms, the energy the plant was using towards seed production is redirected towards foliage production, which makes the plant grow more vigorously. Pruning also helps prevent some diseases, such as powdery mildew, by opening up the plant and increasing air flow.

How to Trim Parsley

If the parsley has any flowers, pinch them back (deadhead) or remove them with scissors. First, check and see of your parsley plants have grown any blooms. If these blooms have begun to fade, it's important that you deadhead them. To deadhead means to remove the dying flowers before they form seeds. You may have also heard of this process described as pinching back the flowers. By “deadheading” or “pinching back” the dying flower blooms, you prevent the plant from over seeding all over your herb garden. This will keep your parsley vigorous and assist in preventing the plant from taking over. Take a sharp pair of scissors and cut off the flower stalk at the root. Next, remove any yellowed, spotted or shriveled leaves as well as those that are munched on by insects. Then give the parsley a 1/3 inch (.85 cm.) trim. Cut or pinch off 1/3 inch (.85 cm.) off the tops of the plant which will control the growth of the parsley. You can do this any time the parsley is getting too large. Harvesting for use in cooking can take place any time after the leaves have become well formed. Cut the outer leaves and stems down to the ground, leaving the inner stems to grow. Don’t be afraid to cut too much. Your parsley will love it. Once you have pruned the parsley, mulch around the plants with mature compost to aid in water retention. Remember that parsley is a biennial herb. This means that it grows for only two years. At the end of the two years, parsley bolts, or sends up a bunch of flower stalks, goes to seed, and dies. In fact, many people treat parsley as an annual and discard and replant each year.

If you happened to notice worms on your parsley, dill, or an occasional carrot, chances are they are parsley worms. Read on to learn how to manage worms on parsley.

What are Parsley Worms?

Striking caterpillars, parsley worms turn into even more striking black swallowtail butterflies. They are easily identifiable as green worms with a brilliant, yellow dotted black band across each body segment. When the caterpillar is disturbed, it protrudes a pair of fleshy “horns,” the better to scare predators away. This larval stage of the gorgeous black swallowtail can grow up to 2 inches (5 cm.) long.

Parsley Worm Life Cycle

Female black swallowtail butterflies are slightly larger than males and, as is usual in nature, a bit duller in color than their male counterparts. The wingspan may be up to 76 mm (3 in.). Both are velvety black in color with tailed hind wings marked with peacock-like eyes. The females lay spherical, 1 mm (0.05 in.) across eggs that change in color from pale yellow to reddish-brown. Four to nine days later, the eggs hatch and young larvae (instars) emerge and begin feeding. The yellowish-green parsley worm is the butterfly's larval stage and its body is transverse with black bands and yellow or orange spots. The “horns” mentioned above are actually scent organs. The young larvae look similar but may have spines. The pupa or chrysalis appears dull gray and mottled with black and brown and is around 32 mm (1.25 in.). long. These pupae overwinter attached to stems or fallen leaves and emerge as butterflies in April-May.

How to Control Parsley Worms

Worm control on parsley is fairly simple if you really desire their eradication. They are easy to spot and handpick. They are also naturally attacked by parasites, or if you must, insecticides such as Sevin or Bacillus thuringiensis will kill off the caterpillars. Although parsley worms are voracious eaters, the benefit of attracting a future pollinator (and a stunning one at that) may outweigh worm control practices on parsley. Me, I would just plant a few more parsley, dill, or whatever the insects are feeding on. Healthy plants will usually recover from the foliage loss and parsley worms will not sting or bite humans. Deterring parsley worms is a bit more difficult. If you find the caterpillars truly objectionable, you might try row covers. Covering your tender crops may aid in deterring parsley worms.

Parsley is one of the most popular and commonly grown herbs with a variety of culinary uses and an ability to thrive in either cool or warm climes. Simply provide the parsley plants with well-drained soil and plenty of irrigation for healthy herbs. What's going on when the parsley has yellow spots on leaves though? Keep reading for answers to why parsley plants turn yellow.

Why Does Parsley Turn Yellow?

If your parsley plant suddenly looks peaked, you may be searching for the answer to the question, “Why does parsley turn yellow?” Parsley leaves yellowing may be the result of a number of factors. Let's take a look at some of the most common: Leaf spot fungus- A fungal infection called leaf spot may quite possibly be the culprit, resulting in parsley leaves yellowing. Both sides of the leaves are afflicted with yellow specks, which gradually turn dark brown with tiny black pin spots in the center and a yellow outer border. Leaves weaken and wilt and will eventually drop off altogether. Use a fungicide to control the infection, or if severely afflicted, the entire plant may need to be dug up and discarded. Blight- Another reason your parsley plant has yellow spots on leaves may be from blight, with onset symptoms that include brownish patches on the foliage. As this infection progresses, typically the blotching overtakes the leaves, causing the plant to die. Caused by high humidity conditions, the remedy obviously is to avoid watering the foliage and water at the base of the plant only to reduce humidity levels. Also water in the morning so the plant can dry, and thin the plant to encourage air circulation. Crown or root rot- Yet another possibility for your parsley plant going yellow may be crown rot and root rot. Crown and root rot affect the entire plant, eventually resulting in its demise and is caused by bacteria and fungi in the soil media. Soggy or mushy roots, red blotches on the taproot, reddish discoloration at the root, browning of the roots and stems, sickly leaves, and water rings at the stem are all signs of crown and root rot. Again, keep the plant in sunlight and water in the morning so the soil can dry out. Crop rotation may help with the eradication of crown and root rot. Also, this fungus occurs in late winter thaws when dead leaves decompose, harboring bacteria and fungi which are then spread to healthy plants. Treat parsley as an annual and pull in the fall of their first growing season. Stemphylium fungus- Stemphylium vesicarium, a fungus more often found in crops such as garlic, leek, onion, asparagus, and alfalfa, has recently been found to afflict parsley herbs with the result of growing parsley turning yellow and dying off. To minimize issues with this disease, space parsley plants apart and water in the morning. Septoria leaf spot- Septoria leaf spot on tomatoes is also a very common cause of yellowing or yellow to tan to brown lesions with yellow border on parsley leaves. A general garden fungicide should be applied, or if the infection is rampant, remove the plant entirely. A disease-resistant variety of parsley should be planted, such as ‘Paramount.' Spider mites- Finally, spider mites are another culprit that causes the yellowing of parsley foliage. To get rid of spider mites, an insecticide may be applied or predator ants or predator mites may be introduced. To attract the ants, sprinkle some sugar around the base of the plant. Predator mites will need to be purchased at a garden center or nursery. Additionally, the application of neem oil and insecticidal soaps will greatly reduce the spider mite population. Be sure to cover the underside of the leaves.

Italian flat leaf parsley (Petroselinum neapolitanum) may look unassuming but add it to soups and stews, stocks and salads, and you add a fresh flavor and color that makes the dish. Growing Italian parsley in the garden or in a window box will allow the home cook to harness the lively flavor of this plant. Try growing Italian parsley indoors as it does better than curly leaved parsley. You can also learn how to grow Italian parsley outside in the kitchen garden.

What Does Italian Parsley Look Like?

Even the foodie with moderate herbal knowledge may wonder, what does Italian parsley look like? This 6 to 12 inch (15-31 cm.) tall plant has sturdy, slender stems topped with flat, deeply divided leaves. The leaves are soft and pliable and useful whole or chopped. In fact, the entire stem is good cut up and used in chicken salad or other places where celery or some crunchy vegetable would be appropriate. You can even use Italian flat leaf parsley roots in salads or sautés.

Types of Italian Parsley Herbs

There are several cultivars of Italian flat leaf parsley:

• Gigante Catalogno is a large leaved variety.
• Italian Dark Green has deep green leaves with a strong flavor and Italian plain leaf, which is the fastest growing type.
• Giant of Naples is another larger variety.

Whichever variety you choose, know the proper conditions for growing Italian parsley and you'll have a biennial herb that is useful for years.

How to Grow Italian Parsley

Italian parsley herbs require temperate conditions. They don't perform well in extremely hot areas and are prone to freezing back in cold climates. Choose a sunny site in well-draining soil with plenty of organic amendment. If you're planting several plants together, allow at least 18 inches (36 cm.) between them to prevent mildew from forming on the leaves. Potted plants thrive in a window with indirect light, no drafts, and comfortable household temperatures.

Growing Italian Parsley from Seed

Italian parsley is started outdoors after all danger of frost has passed, or inside six to eight weeks before the last expected frost. Use a fine mixture of potting soil, peat moss, and sand. Cover with 1/8 inch (3 mm.) fine dusting of soil, and keep the seeds misted and lightly moist. Thin seedlings to 10 to 12 inches (25-31 cm.) apart.

Care of Italian Flat Leaf Parsley

Allow the soil to dry out partially between watering. Water deeply approximately once per week and allow excess moisture to drain out. Fertilize plants in the ground in early spring with a balanced fertilizer. Potted plants may be fertilized monthly with a half dilution of liquid plant food. Trim what you need, taking the stems back to the core of the plant. If your plant is skinny and spindly, try moving it to a brighter area. Cut off any blooms as they occur, as this will cause the plant to seed and leaf production to diminish.

Growing parsley indoors on a sunny windowsill is ornamental as well as practical. Curly types have lacy, frilly foliage that looks great in any setting and flat-leaf varieties are prized for their flavor. Learning how to grow parsley indoors is not at all complicated and neither is indoor parsley care.

Parsley Container Gardening

Parsley herbs (Petroselinum crispum) grow best in a sunny, preferably south-facing window where they will receive six to eight hours of direct sunlight every day. If your window doesn't provide that much light, you'll have to supplement it with fluorescent lighting. Turn the pot every three or four days so that the plant doesn't lean into the sun. Parsley container gardening is no different than growing any other potted herbs. Choose a container that fits snugly on the window sill. It should have several drainage holes and a saucer underneath to catch water as it drains through. Fill the pot with a good, quality potting soil and add a handful of clean sand to improve the drainage. Humidity isn't usually a problem when you grow parsley in the kitchen where steam from cooking and the frequent use of water helps keep the air moist. In other locations, you may need to mist the plants from time to time. If the leaves look dry and brittle, set the plant on top of a tray of pebbles and add water to the tray, leaving the tops of the pebbles exposed. As the water evaporates, it increases the humidity of the air around the plant.

How to Grow Parsley Indoors

When you're ready for growing parsley indoors, it's best to start parsley from seeds sown directly in the container because parsley has a long tap root that doesn't transplant well. Sprinkle a few seeds on the surface of the soil and cover them with an additional 1/4 inch (6 mm.) of soil. Water the pot regularly to keep the soil moist to the touch, but not soggy, and expect seedlings to emerge in three weeks or so. If you get too many seedlings, you'll have to thin them out. Clip out the excess with scissors or pinch them out between your fingernail and thumb. Pulling them out may damage the tap roots of the surrounding plants.

Indoor Parsley Care

Indoor parsley care is easy. Keep the soil lightly moist and empty the saucer under the pot after every watering so that the roots don't sit in water. Feed the plants every two weeks with fish emulsion or half-strength liquid fertilizer. You can grow other herbs in the container with parsley, if desired. Herbs that combine well in a mixed container with parsley include chives, thyme, basil, oregano, and mint. When planting thyme with parsley herbs, stick them around the edges of a container or hanging basket where it can tumble over the edges.

Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) is a hardy herb grown for its flavor, which is added to many dishes, as well as used as a decorative garnish. Growing parsley also makes an attractive edging plant. Its curly, fern-like foliage is high in vitamins and the plant is rarely affected by disease, though pests such as aphids, can occasionally present a problem.

Parsley is considered a biennial but is treated as an annual in cold climates. This herb can be grown in containers or out in the garden and is generally established through seeds. Read on to learn more about how to grow parsley.

When to Plant Parsley Seeds

Parsley seeds can be started indoors or out. While they can be sown directly in the garden as soon as the soil is manageable in spring, the best time when to plant parsley seeds is to sow them indoors about six weeks beforehand. This is typically due to its slow germination rate, which can take up to three weeks or more. As parsley seeds are quite small, there’s no need for covering them with soil. When planting parsley, simply sprinkle seeds on top of the soil and mist well with water.

Once seeds have sprouted, thin them down to only one or two plants per pot. Spring is the ideal time for planting parsley seedlings in the garden.

How to Grow Parsley

Although this herb tolerates poor soil and drainage, it’s always preferable to situate plants in organic-rich, well-drained soil when growing parsley. Planting parsley in areas with full sun to partial shade is also recommended. This easy-care herb requires little maintenance, other than occasional watering or weeding, once established. These tasks, however, can be reduced by applying mulch around the plants.

Harvesting Parsley

Parsley can be harvested throughout the year, especially when growing it in a cold frame or indoors during winter. You can begin harvesting parsley once the leaves start to curl. For optimal flavor, pick parsley early in the day (morning hours) when the plant’s oil is strongest. Parsley is best used while fresh; however, it can be frozen until ready for use. It’s also better to freeze parsley rather than drying, as this may cause the herb to lose some of its flavor.

Now that you know more about how to grow parsley, you can add it to your garden. Growing parsley not only adds a delicious herb to your garden, but a lovely one as well.