By this point in June, a peach tree has stopped being a spring project and turned into a summer one. The blossoms are long gone, the little green fruit from a few weeks back have started to swell into something you can picture eating, and the tree is pouring real energy into growing fruit big enough to harvest.

Good peach tree care is really key right now in the back half of summer when your tree's water demands and the insect pressure both crest at once. If you ignore your trees now, they will find a way to let you know their displeasure – split fruit one week, a crop browning on the branch the next.

By the end of June, peach trees are in high gear. The fruit fattens fast, and the heat that ripens it also brings out every pest and disease waiting for a chance. The next few weeks are crucial for how your harvest turns out, so do these tasks now to keep trees happy and full of healthy fruit.

1. Water Deeply

Heat can both help and hurt a peach tree. It helps fruit get bigger quickly, but it also pulls moisture from the soil faster than the roots can replace it. A tree loaded with a full crop of peaches by June often wants an inch or two (2.5-5 cm) of water a week – even more in sandy soil.

Most people water a little bit and very often often, which keeps the surface damp and not much else. But the feeder roots sitting deeper never really get a drink when you water like this.

Instead, a slow soak at the drip line that is deep enough to wet the top foot (30 cm) of soil goes further than a light daily sprinkle. This braided soaker hose from Amazon makes watering peach trees hands-off. It weeps water right where the roots want it.

Steady watering matters as much as deep watering, too. An uneven watering schedule is exactly what causes fruit to split just before harvesting.

2. Thin Out Extra Fruit

Thinning peach trees usually happens earlier in the season, back when the fruit was marble-sized. But plenty of trees head into July still carrying clusters that never got dealt with. It's not too late, though. Crowded fruit stays small and shades its neighbors. It also gives brown rot an easy bridge from one peach to the next.

Aim for one fruit every 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm) along the branch and pull the rest. Prune away the smallest and least healthy fruits first. The tree won't miss them – and you would rather ripen forty good peaches than a hundred mediocre ones. Branches carrying less weight are also far less likely to snap later on in the season, which is one less issue to deal with come August.

3. Prune for Light & Airflow

Pruning peach trees in summer isn't really about shaping the tree. It's about getting sun down to the fruit. By now the tree has thrown up a mass of vertical shoots, also known as water sprouts, that crowd the center and shade the fruit that's trying to color up underneath. Snip them out and the canopy opens up, allowing light to reach the peaches that were sitting in shade.

Keep pruning light. A few targeted cuts to vigorous upright growth plus anything dead or rubbing is all you need to do – this isn't the hard winter prune. A clean pair of Fiskars tree loppers from Amazon make quick work of this task and leave cuts that heal fast, which is important in humid weather when open wounds invite disease. Hold off on pruning if your tree is heat or drought-stressed, though. Let it recover first before making any cuts.

4. Stay Ahead of Brown Rot & Pests

Brown rot on peach trees can be devastating. It turns ripening peaches to brown mush almost overnight and spreads on contact. This common peach disease loves the warm, humid stretch right before harvest. The first defense is sanitation. Pull and bin any dead or rotting fruit the moment you spot it and quickly clear what drops to the ground.

Insects show up around the same time as brown rot. Oriental fruit moths tunnel into shoots and fruit, while stink bugs leave dimpled, corky spots where they feed. A weekly walk around your peach tree to check fruit and the undersides of leaves catches most trouble while it's still manageable.

For brown rot in a wet year, applying an organic fungicide like this one from Amazon as the fruit nears ripeness can help, though cleanup does the heavy lifting. Prevention is the best method of control.

5. Support Heavy Limbs

A branch that looked fine in May may be bending toward the ground by mid-June, weighed down by fruit that's still gaining size. Peach wood is brittle and a heavy limb that splits takes next year's growth with it – sometimes a third of the tree in one loud crack. Walk around trees in June and find the branches sagging the lowest.

Propping up heavy branches is simple. A notched board or a sturdy stake wedged under the limb takes the strain. Alternatively, a set of adjustable limb supports from Amazon does the same job with less fuss, if you'd rather not DIY your own supports.

Tie-ups work, too. Anchor heavy branches to a central stake with soft cloth strips so nothing bites into the bark. Either way, complete this task before the fruit reaches full weight – not after you hear the crack.

6. Refresh Mulch & Reduce Fertilizer

A few inches of mulch under a peach tree earns its keep in summer. It holds in moisture between waterings and keeps the soil from getting too hot, all while smothering the weeds competing for the same nutrients your tree needs.

If the layer of mulch you added in spring has thinned or broken down by this point in the summer, top it back up to 2 or 3 inches (5-8 cm) of wood mulch or straw. This organic mulch from Amazon is a great choice. Just keep it pulled back a hand's width from the trunk so the bark stays dry.

Feeding is the opposite story. By June, your peach tree should already have what it needs in terms of nutrients and a shot of nitrogen now will only encourage soft new growth right when it should be steering everything it has into fruit and, later, into hardening off for winter. Late feeding can also delay fruit ripening and produce tender shoots that won't survive a cold snap. Hold off on fertilizing peach trees until next spring.

Peaches are one of summer's many delights. They are a fresh treat that doesn't keep long and must be preserved to enjoy later. There are many types of peaches for canning but what are the best peaches for canning? The easiest to can are freestone, although clingstone varieties may also be canned. The best peach variety for canning will also depend upon what is available fresh in your area.

Summer brings all nature's tasty fruits, peaches being chief among them. Since peaches don't last very long, it is often best to preserve them in some way for later use. Peaches may be dried, frozen, or canned as preserves, whole fruit, or slices. Selecting the right varieties will ensure firm fruit that holds its shape after canning. White fleshed peaches simply don't hold up due to their lack of acidity, but many others are perfect preserve peaches.

What Are the Best Peaches for Canning?

When a bumper crop of peaches comes along, it is necessary to preserve them in some manner. Many people simply freeze them to use later in smoothies, pies, or other baked goodies. But when freezer space is tight, preserving them by canning is the best way to go. The best peaches for preserves tend to be yellow fleshed varieties. There is currently no guidance on canning white fleshed peaches because they are low in acid. Canning requires fruits to carry a low pH or be citrified, which is not recommended for white fleshed types. Those peaches should be frozen or dried for preservation. Yellow fleshed peaches have the higher pH necessary for safe canning and will not need any acid added to the canning solution.

Selecting Peaches to Can

Peaches should be fairly firm prior to canning. Overly ripe fruits will break down in the canning liquid, resulting in mushy fruit. Ideal skin color is blush to cream. Avoid peaches with green skin as they will not have a pleasant flavor. Peaches continue to ripen off the tree. If there are green ones harvested, place them in a brown paper bag on the counter for a day or two. Check the bag daily as the fruit can go from green to overly ripe quickly. Some ideal varieties of peach for canning are:

• John Boy
• Redhaven
• Sunhigh
• Bellaire
• Fayette
• Allstar
• Loring
• Cresthaven
• Ernie's Choice
• Canadian Harmony
• Sunbeam
• Rio Oso Gem
• Glohaven
• Belle of Georgia
• Champton
• Glenglo

Tips on Canning Perfect Peaches

Canned peaches are tastier if you take off the skin. Wash your fruit thoroughly and then dip it into boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds. The skin will slip off easily. You may can peaches in halves, quarters, or slices. Remove the pits and cut the fruit into the desired size. If you are doing a big batch, float slices in a citric and water solution to prevent the fruit from browning. Peaches can be canned in a light sugar syrup or plain water, apple or grape juice. Raw packs may be used but the quality of the fruit can suffer. Hot packs, where fruit has been boiled in the preserving solution last longer with better results.

Sanitize the jars completely, and process in either a boiling water canner or dial gauge pressure canner. Consult your local extension office for proper timing for your altitude, as processing times will vary depending on location.

White peach scale has significant financial impact for commercial peach growing operations. White peach scale insects cause peach tree leaves to yellow and drop, decrease fruit production, and can lead to premature death of the tree.

For home gardeners and commercial growers alike, catching and combating the problem in the early stages of infestation is recommended.

What is White Peach Scale

White peach scale insects (Pseudaulacaspis pentagona) are tiny armored bugs which consume sap and infest the bark, leaves, and fruit of trees such as peach, cherry and persimmon. These insects can inhabit over 100 species of plants and have worldwide distribution.

These insects are very small, with adult females averaging 3/64 to 3/32 of an inch (1 to 2.25 mm.). Mature females are white, cream, or grayish in color and can be identified by the yellow to red spot that gives these bugs the appearance of a fried egg. Adult females remain immobile, but young females spread to new areas before laying eggs. Fertilized females overwinter on the trees.

The adult male of the species is smaller than the female, orange in color, and only lives about 24 hours. Wings give the males the ability to fly and locate females via pheromones. Both male and female nymphs are smaller than the adult female. Depending upon the climate, more than one generation can be produced in a year.

Control of White Peach Scale

Control of white peach scale is difficult due to the heavy armor which protects these bugs. The best time to apply oil is early spring when the first generation hatches and begins migrating. Monitoring this crawler stage can be accomplished by wrapping infested limbs with double-sided or electrical tape (sticky side out). Check the tape at least twice a week, using a magnifying glass to detect live bugs. Oil sprays are most effective against the immature insect pests.

Biological control also can be effective for white peach scale treatment in backyard trees and small home orchards. Predator bugs which prey on white peach scale insects include ladybird beetles, lacewings and parasitic wasps. Some species of predaceous thrips and mites as well as gall midges attack white peach scale.

Gardeners and commercial growers wishing to use chemicals for white peach scale treatment are advised to contact their local extension office for recommendations. Properly timed treatments are more effective and new products may be available.

Finally, proper orchard management reduces stress and promotes healthier fruit trees. This, in turn, helps trees overcome white peach scale damage.

Peach tree short life disease (PTSL) is a condition that causes peach trees to die after a few years of doing well in the home orchard. Just before or after leafing out in spring, the trees collapse and quickly die.

What is PTSL caused by? Read on for information on this problem and tips for preventing the disease. Note that there is no effective peach tree short life treatment for an affected tree.

What is PTSL?

Peach tree short life disease results from several different stresses on a young tree. Stress factors include external pests like the ring nematode and bacterial canker.

However, when it comes to prevention, it’s important to remember that other environmental and cultural stresses can be involved. They can include fluctuating winter temperatures, pruning the wrong time of year, and poor horticultural practices.

Peach Tree Short Life Disease Symptoms

How can you be sure that your tree’s demise is caused by PTSL? The trees affected are relatively young, usually between 3 and 6 years old. Watch for the leaves to suddenly wilt and the blossoms to collapse.

In addition, the peach tree bark will look water soaked, turn red, and crack. If you cut away some bark and smell it, it has a sour sap odor. However, if you were to dig up the tree, you would find that the primary root system seems healthy.

Once you see these symptoms, expect the tree to die very quickly.

Preventing Peach Tree Short Life

Since some of the causes of this peach tree disease are cultural, you should take care to give them your attention. Site trees in well-drained soil with a pH of about 6.5. If necessary, add lime regularly to the soil to maintain this pH.

One way of preventing peach tree short life is to be sure to time your pruning correctly. Only do your pruning in February and early March. Keep the trees short enough to allow pesticide spraying.

It’s also a good idea to select peach trees that use a ring-nematode-tolerant variety for a rootstock, like ‘Guardian.’ You should monitor your soil for nematodes, and spray the planting area soil with a fumigant nematicide.

If you are wondering about peach tree short life treatment, it is not possible to save a tree that is affected. Taking steps to be sure your soil doesn’t have nematodes can help with prevention.

Oriental fruit moths are nasty little pests that wreak havoc in a number of trees including cherry, quince, pear, plum, apple, ornamental cherry, and even rose. However, the pests are particularly fond of nectarines and peaches.

Fruit moths in peaches aren’t easy to control, but the following information should be helpful. Read on to learn more about oriental fruit moths in peaches.

Peach Fruit Moth Symptoms

Adult fruit moths are gray with dark gray bands on the wings. The adults lay tiny, disk-shaped eggs on twigs or the undersides of leaves. They fly in the evening or sometimes early in the morning. The eggs are white but eventually change to amber. One female moth can lay as many as 200 eggs. Oriental fruit moths generally have four or five generations per year.

Oriental fruit moth larvae, which are white with dark heads, turn pinkish as they mature. The larvae overwinter in cocoons, which may be seen on the tree or the ground. In spring, the larvae bore into twigs, causing dieback and wilt.

The next generation of larvae bores into developing fruit, often leaving masses of gummy castings or “frass.” Later generations enter the stem end of the fruit, especially at the top of the tree. Tiny entry holes in peaches with oriental fruit moths are difficult to see and are often an unpleasant surprise after the fruit is harvested.

How to Kill Oriental Fruit Moths

Controlling fruit moths in peaches isn’t easy, but with some simple approaches, it can be possible. If you plan to plant new peach trees, plant early cultivars that will be harvested by midsummer. Cultivate the soil around the trees in early spring. Working the soil to a depth of about four inches (10 cm.) will help destroy overwintering larvae. Plant blooming cover crops that will attract beneficial predatory insects, including braconid wasps.

Pheromone dispensers hung from the lower limbs of trees in February, and again 90 days later, will help prevent peaches with oriental fruit moths by interfering with mating. However, pheromones are generally used in orchards and may not be effective for home gardens.

Dormant oils aren’t effective against fruit moths in peaches, but some insecticides, including pyrethroids, are suitable for home use. Check with your local cooperative extension office as many are highly toxic to bees while others threaten fish and other aquatic life if the spray drifts or runs off.

Growing peaches in a home orchard can be a great reward come harvest time, unless your trees are hit by brown rot. Peaches with brown rot can be completely destroyed and become inedible. This fungal infection can be managed with prevention measures and fungicides.

What is Peach Brown Rot?

Brown rot is a fungal infection that can impact peaches and other stone fruits. Brown rot of peaches is caused by the fungus Monilinia fructicola. It infects trees in two stages. During blossoming, flowers will develop brown spots and quickly die. Look for dusty fungal growth on the dead blooms and cankers on the twigs.

The infection can also set in during peach ripening, triggered by the fungal growth on the flowers and twigs in the spring. Peaches with brown rot have brown spots that quickly spread. The infection moves fast, rotting entire fruits in just a couple days. Eventually, an affected peach will shrivel up and drop to the ground. This is an important source for ongoing infection.

Peach Brown Rot Control Methods

Brown rot on peach trees can be treated with fungicides, including myclobutanil or Captan, but there are also things you can do to prevent the infection or manage and control it without losing too much fruit.

The infection begins in temperatures as low as 41 degrees F. (5 C.), but 77 degrees F. (25 C.) is the ideal temperature. Water on petals and twigs is necessary for infections to begin in the spring. Avoiding overhead watering and keeping trees thinned adequately for good airflow and drying after rains is important.

Good sanitary practices in the orchard is among the best things you can do to control brown rot of peaches. Any fruit you thin from the tree should be removed and destroyed. Clean up under trees in fall, after harvesting peaches, and remove any rotted fruits especially. If you see signs of infection in the spring blossoms that spread to twigs, trim out those twigs showing cankers during the summer months.

Wild plum can be an important source of infection by brown rot, so if you have had issues with this disease, check areas around your orchard. If you have wild plums, removing them can help prevent the disease and reduce infection rates in your trees.

When you harvest peaches from a tree that was impacted by brown rot, it may help to give each fruit a quick dip in a water bath. Studies have found that immersion for 30 to 60 seconds in water at 140 degrees F. (60 C.) significantly reduces decay in the fruit. Then store the fruit in cold temperatures.

The scent and flavor of a ripe peach are unparalleled summer treats. Whether you like them eaten out of hand, sliced over a bowl of ice cream, or baked into a cobbler, Intrepid peaches will provide you with a glorious fruit. What is an Intrepid peach? It has been around for a few decades and is characterized by its ability to retain flower buds even in cold snaps. The fruit is the real showstopper, with large peach crops and sweet flavor.

What is an Intrepid Peach?

Merriam Webster defines the word intrepid as, “characterized by resolute fearlessness, fortitude, and endurance.” That surely describes Intrepid peach trees. The Intrepid peach tree variety not only has stoic blossoms in the face of cold temperatures but also has resistance to bacterial spot. It’s a really great patented variety of peach for most suitable regions.

The Intrepid peach tree variety was introduced in 2002 out of North Carolina State University. The tree is hardy to -20 degrees Fahrenheit (-29 C.). The fruit is freestone and requires up to 1,050 chill hours, so the tree is suited for the cooler USDA zones 4 to7.

The peaches are large and reddish-pink when ripe with yellow flesh, very juicy and sweet. They are recommended for canning, cooking, and freezing, as well as fresh eating. The pink flowers appear in late spring but can withstand any surprise freezes without aborting blooms.

Growing Intrepid Peaches

Intrepid peach trees need a full sun location in loose, loamy soil. The tree is self-fruiting and does not need a pollinator. If you are planting multiple plants, space standard trees at least 15 feet (4.5 m.) and dwarf plants 10 feet (3 m.) apart.

If purchased plants already exhibit greening, harden them off for a week before planting outdoors. Bare root plants should have the roots soaked for up to two hours. Dig the hole twice as wide and deep as the roots and spread these out at the bottom. Make sure the graft scar is above the soil. Backfill completely, watering in well to pack the soil.

Intrepid Peach Care

Growing Intrepid peaches is a breeze compared to some fruit trees. Use organic mulch around the root zone to prevent weeds and conserve moisture.

Begin a fertilizing program as soon as trees begin to bear fruit, between 2 and 4 years of age. Apply a high nitrogen fertilizer in spring and a balanced food up until the first of July.

Water the tree deeply and consistently but don’t keep the soil soggy. Train the tree to an open shape with annual light pruning. This will help prevent fungal issues and allow light to penetrate into the canopy and assist production and ripening.

Pick peaches when they have a bright red blush on them and just a touch of give.

If you want a peach that is the belle of the ball, try Belle of Georgia peaches. Gardeners in United States Department of Agriculture zones 5 to 8 should try growing a Belle of Georgia peach tree. The brilliant red flowers, multi-purpose fruits, and disease-resistant attributes of this plant make it an outstanding, edible landscape tree.

About Peach ‘Belle of Georgia’

Peaches are one of those fruits that are delicious fresh but also translate well to canned, grilled, and dessert recipes. The peach ‘Belle of Georgia’ is a blushed freestone with white, succulent flesh. As an added bonus, the tree is self-fertile and doesn't require a pollination partner to crop. It does, however, need at least 800 chilling hours for a reliable harvest.

Not all peach trees are created equal. The Belle of Georgia peach tree is resistant to bacterial leaf spot and brown rot. Standard trees attain a height of 25 feet (7.5 m.), but there is a dwarf variety that will only get 10 feet (3 m.) maximum. It is a fast-growing tree that may produce a fruit crop as early as age three.

Belle of Georgia peaches are large and have a rosy blush on their fuzzy skins. The firm-fleshed fruits are ready to harvest in late summer and store well.

Growing a Belle of Georgia Peach

Plant the tree in well-draining, loamy to sandy soil with plenty of organic amendment incorporated. Provide the tree with full sun, at least 6 hours minimum of bright light. Plant standard trees a minimum of 20 feet (6 m.) apart and provide dwarf forms 10 feet (3 m.) of spacing.

Soak bare-root trees in a bucket of water for two hours prior to planting. Dig a hole twice as wide and deep as the roots and build a little hill of loose soil at the bottom. Spread the roots out over the hill and to the edges of the hole. Fill in and pack soil around the roots, watering deeply after. If necessary, stake the little tree to help it grow straight.

Belle of Georgia Care

Water newly installed trees weekly. Once established, water trees deeply but wait until the surface of the soil has dried before further irrigation.

In the first dormant season, prune to establish a central leader and 4 to 5 scaffold branches. In the second season, remove any new shoots, leaving the older twig growth. By the third season, pruning is done to remove waterspouts, and crossing or damaged stems. After a first crop, prune the peach annually to remove a third of the fruited wood.

Once trees start bearing fruit, fertilize in early spring with a high nitrogen organic feed.

There’s nothing better than homegrown peaches. There’s just something about picking them yourself that makes them extra sweet. They can be especially prone to disease though, and it’s important to be vigilant. Even after you’ve harvested your peaches, it’s possible for disaster to strike. One common post-harvest disease is rhizopus rot. Keep reading to learn more about peach rhizopus rot symptoms and treating a peach with rhizopus rot disease.

Peach Rhizopus Rot Info

Rhizopus rot is a fungal disease that affects stone fruits, usually after they’ve been harvested. It can also appear on overripe fruit that’s still on the tree. Peach rhizopus rot symptoms usually start as small, brown lesions in the flesh, which can rapidly develop into a flossy white fungus on the skin, as quickly as overnight.

As the spores grow, the floss turns gray and black. The skin of the fruit will slip off easily when handled. Needless to say, once these symptoms appear, the infected fruit is pretty much a lost cause.

What Causes Peach Rhizopus Rot?

Rhizopus rot of peaches develops only in warm conditions, and only on very ripe fruits. The fungus will often grow on rotten fruit under the tree, spreading upward to the healthy fruit above. Peaches that have been damaged by insects, hail, or overhandling are especially susceptible, as the fungus can more easily break through the skin.

Once one peach has been infected, the fungus can travel rapidly to other peaches that are touching it.

Peach Rhizopus Rot Control

To help prevent the spread of rhizopus rot to healthy peaches, it’s a good idea to keep the orchard floor clear of fallen fruit. There are sprays designated for rhizopus rot, and it’s best to apply them toward the end of the season, near harvest time.

During harvest, make sure to handle your peaches with care, as any breaks in the skin will help the fungus spread. The most effective way to fight the fungus post-harvest is to store your peaches at 39 degrees F. (4 C.) or below, as the fungus can’t develop under 40 degrees F. (4.5 C.). Even fruits harboring the spores will be safe to eat at this temperature.

Large peaches with a striking red blush, Messina yellow peaches are sweet and juicy. This low-fuzz fruit is delicious eaten straight off the tree, but the firmness of this peach makes it an excellent choice for freezing. USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 8 are ideal for this vigorous, productive tree because, like all peach trees, Messina requires a chilling period during the winter. Read on and learn more about Messina yellow peaches.

Messina Peach Information

Messina peaches were introduced by the New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station at Rutgers University. Messina peach trees have earned good reviews for a vigorous growth habit and low susceptibility to bacterial leaf spot. Look for Messina peaches to ripen between mid July and mid August, depending on climate.

Messina Peach Care

Messina trees are self-pollinating. However, a pollinator in close proximity may result in a larger crop. Choose a variety that, like Messina peach, blooms relatively early. Plant this peach tree where it will receive at least six to eight hours of full sunlight per day. Avoid locations with heavy clay, as growing Messina peaches require well-drained soil. Peach trees may also struggle in sandy, fast-draining conditions. Before planting, amend the soil with generous amounts of well-rotted manure, dry leaves, grass clippings, or compost. Don’t add fertilizer to the planting hole. Once established, Messina peach trees generally don’t need much supplemental irrigation if you receive regular rainfall. If weather is hot and dry, give the tree a thorough soaking every seven to ten days. Fertilize Messina when the tree begins bearing fruit. Until that time, well-rotted manure or compost is sufficient unless your soil is very poor. Feed the peach trees in early spring using a peach tree or orchard fertilizer. Never fertilize peach trees after July 1st, as a flush of new growth is susceptible to winter freezes. Pruning Messina peach trees is most effective when the tree is dormant, otherwise, you may weaken the tree. However, you can trim lightly during the summer to tidy up the tree. Remove suckers as they appear, as they draw moisture and nutrients from the tree.

For an early peach that will grow well in warmer climates, you can hardly do better than Earligrande. This variety is most noted for its very early harvest dates, as early as late May in some places, but it also produces a tasty, versatile fruit that backyard gardeners will enjoy.

About Earligrande Peach Trees

Growing Earligrande peaches is ideal for anyone in a hot climate. This tree does especially well in desert environments like Arizona and southern California. The chill requirement is just 300 hours under 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7 C.) and it will not tolerate very cold winters or even the hint of a late frost in spring. The Earligrande peach fruit is medium in size and semi-freestone. The flesh is yellow, firm, and sweet with the characteristic mild peachy tartness. You can enjoy Earligrande right off the tree, fresh and juicy. It is also a good peach for preserving and cooking.

Care of Earligrande Peaches

This is a great variety to grow if you live in the right type of environment. Earligrande peach care is easier than caring for some other types of peach trees and is self-fertile. You will get fruit without having an additional peach tree nearby for pollination. The tree is not small, growing up and out to about 20 to 25 feet (6-7.5 m.), but with the need for just one tree it works in many yards. Your Earligrande tree will need enough space to grow, plenty of direct sunlight, and well-drained soil. You may need to fertilize the tree regularly, but check the quality of your soil first. Watering in the first growing season is important to help the tree establish good roots. Later, you will only need to water occasionally. This tree only has moderate water needs. Expect your Earligrande to produce abundantly, but it is important to keep it healthy and productive by regular pruning. You need to keep its shape with yearly trimming and also make sure the branches are not crowded and you have good airflow through them. This will help prevent disease. The tree will give you pretty, fragrant pink flowers in early to mid spring. Then, as early as late spring, you can expect to begin harvesting ripe, juicy and delicious peaches.

If you are looking for a cold hardy peach tree, try growing Frost peaches. What is a Frost peach? This variety is a partial freestone with classic peachy good looks and flavor. These peaches are yummy canned, in desserts, or fresh out of hand. Continue reading for some helpful Frost peach information that can help you decide if this is the cultivar for you.

What is a Frost Hardy Peach?

Close your eyes and conjure up the scent of a fully ripe summer peach. There are few things like the abundant fruits of summer, and peaches are one of the best. A Frost peach produces medium to large fruits on a self-fruitful tree. Fruits are so abundant that tip pruning may have to occur to allow fruit space to develop. Frost peach grows in USDA zones 5 to 9, making it one of the hardiest peaches available. It does bloom early, however, which may make fruit set difficult in areas with late freezes. Beautiful hot pink flowers occur in spring before the tree develops leaves. These cold hardy peaches grow 12 to 18 feet (4-6 m.) in height but semi-dwarf forms are available that only get 10 to 12 feet (3-4 m.). Pruning can help keep your Frost peach tree the height you require. The fruits are slightly blushed over greenish yellow to yellow skin and have yellow-orange flesh and a semi-clinging stone.

Frost Peach Information

The Frost peach tree requires 700 chill hours to break dormancy and set fruit. It is resistant to peach leaf curl and root knot nematodes. It is, however, susceptible to oriental fruit moths, brown rot, and peach twig borer. They are extremely adaptable plants that will start bearing three to five years after planting. By the time the tree is mature at 8 to 12 years, it will produce its peak crops. Blooming occurs in mid-March to April and fruits are generally ready in mid to late August. Peaches don't store for long, so staggered plantings of varieties that ripen at different times are suggested. These cold hardy peaches are great canned, and so a bumper crop won't go to waste.

Growing Frost Peaches

Peaches prefer a site with full sun and well-draining soil. They can thrive in almost any soil type as long as it doesn't get boggy. Fertilize once per year in early spring. Use organic mulch around the root zone to preserve moisture and prevent weeds. Peach trees need regular pruning to promote air flow and enhance cropping. You can remove old, dead, or diseased wood at any time of the year, but maintenance pruning is done in spring just at bud swell. Remove the old, gray shoots that will not fruit and leave the reddish young growth. Peaches fruit on one year growth and can be pruned hard annually. If necessary, once fruit begins to form, nip off a few in each developing group to promote bigger peaches.

For a tasty, sweet, and large peach, Santa Barbara is a popular choice. What makes this variety unique is not just the high quality of the fruit, but the fact that it has a low chill requirement. It is a great option for gardeners in areas with a mild winter, like California.

About Santa Barbara Peaches

Santa Barbara peach trees are a fairly new development in fruit growing. The peaches were first discovered as a sport growing on a Ventura peach tree in southern California. A sport is a branch with fruit that is different from the rest of the fruit on the tree. Researchers soon discovered that the new sport was similar to the Elberta variety, a peach known for its high quality, very sweet flavor and good texture. How it differed from Elberta though was in its low chill requirement. These trees need only 200 to 300 chill hours, while Elberta requires 400 to 500. The new sport was soon named Santa Barbara and was introduced to growers in California who were ready for such a tasty fruit that could actually be grown in their climate. The peaches are large with yellow flesh. They are freestone and have a high sugar content. Santa Barbara peaches are best eaten fresh and won’t last long off the tree, but they can be canned.

How to Grow Santa Barbara Peaches

Santa Barbara peach care is much like that for any other peach tree. If you give it the right environment and conditions, it will thrive and produce a big harvest. Put your tree in a spot with full sunlight and soil that drains and won’t leave it in standing water. Make sure it has space to grow to 15 or 25 feet (4.5-7.5 m.) tall. Water your Santa Barbara peach tree regularly in the first season and after that only as needed. Use fertilizer once or twice a year, but also amend your soil with compost before planting if it’s weak. You do not have to get a second variety of peach tree to pollinate it, as this tree is self-fertile. Prune the peach tree each year in late winter or early spring to maintain your tree’s shape and health. Be ready to harvest your peaches in midsummer.

Growing peaches in the home garden can be a real treat, but not everyone has space for a full-sized fruit tree. If this sounds like your dilemma, try a Honey Babe peach tree. This pint-sized peach usually grows no taller than 5 or 6 feet (1.5-2 m.), and it will provide you with a truly tasty peach.

About Honey Babe Peaches

When it comes to growing a compact peach, Honey Babe is about the best you can do. This dwarf tree is typically only 5 feet (1.5 m.) tall and no wider. You can even grow this peach tree in a container on a patio or porch, as long as there is enough sunlight and you provide larger containers as it grows. This is a firm, freestone peach with yellow-orange flesh. The flavor is of the highest quality so that you can enjoy Honey Babe peaches fresh, right off the tree. They will be ready to pick in July in most regions, but there is some variation depending on your location and climate. In addition to fresh eating, you can use these peaches in cooking, baking, and for preserves or canning.

Honey Babe Peach Growing

Growing a Honey Babe peach tree is not difficult, but you do need to take some early steps to ensure it will thrive. Find a spot for it that will provide full sun and amend the soil if yours is not very rich. Make sure the soil will drain and that your tree won’t suffer from standing water. Water your peach tree regularly in the first growing season, and only as needed after that. You can use fertilizer once a year if desired, but if you have good, rich soil it isn’t strictly necessary. Honey Babe is self-fertile, but you will get more fruit if you have another peach variety nearby to help with pollination. Pruning of the Honey Babe tree is important if you want to keep it looking like a tree. Without regular trimming, it will grow more like a shrub. Pruning once or twice a year will also keep your tree healthy and productive, preventing disease and providing you with year after year of delicious peaches.

If you’ve never tried white peaches, you’re in for a real treat. Strawberry Free white peaches, with pale, pink-blushed skin and juicy white flesh, are among the most popular of many delicious varieties. The lower acid content means that Strawberry Free peaches are even sweeter than standard peaches, and the aroma is unmistakable. Read on for more Strawberry Free peach info, and learn to grow this delicious fruit in your garden.

About Strawberry Free White Peach

Strawberry Free white peach trees reach mature heights of 15 to 25 feet (5-8 m.). If you have a small yard, Strawberry Free also comes in a semi-dwarf version that tops out at 12 to 18 feet (4-5 m.). These peach trees are easy to grow, but they need 400 to 500 hours of temperatures below 45 degrees F. (7 C.) in order to trigger springtime blooms. This tree is a great addition to home orchards in USDA plant hardiness zones 6 through 9.

How to Grow Strawberry Free Peach Trees

Growing Strawberry Free white peaches is not really different than that of other types. Strawberry Free peaches are self-pollinating. However, a pollinator nearby may result in a larger crop and higher quality fruit. Select a tree that blooms at approximately the same time. Plant Strawberry Free white peaches in well-drained soil and full sunlight. Poor soil can be improved by digging in generous amounts of dry leaves, grass clippings, or compost prior to planting. However, avoid locations with heavy clay or sandy, fast-draining soil. Once established, Strawberry Free peach trees generally don’t need supplemental irrigation. However, it’s a good idea to give the tree a thorough soaking every seven to ten days during dry periods. Don’t fertilize Strawberry Free peach trees until the tree begins bearing fruit. At that time, fertilize in early spring using a fruit tree or orchard fertilizer. Never fertilize peach trees after July 1st. Strawberry Free peach trees are ready for harvest from late June to mid-July, depending on climate.

The Red Baron peach is a classic example of the popular fruit. The fruit is a late season freestone with outstanding flavor. Growing Red Baron peaches isn't particularly difficult, but young trees need some help to establish and develop a good form. Red Baron peach care includes training, watering, and feeding needs. We'll give some important Red Baron peach info to help your plant get off to a good start.

Red Baron Peach Info

Red Baron peaches are widely available in supermarkets because they don't transport well. These delicate fruits are popular home orchard plants that bloom and produce prolifically. In fact, the production is so high, culling the blossoms to minimize fruit per stem tip is advised for better fruit size. That being said, with a little care, harvesting Red Baron peaches in August and taking those first bites is one of the highlights of the summer. Red Baron peach trees thrive in United States Department of Agriculture zones 6 to 10. This peach tree produces huge, double petaled, deeply red flowers in spring. Red Baron peach trees require 250 chill hours and are self-fruitful. The plant grows up to 15 feet (4.5 m.) at maturity with a similar spread, although there are plants on semi dwarf rootstock that will be smaller. The fruits are deeply red with bright yellow flesh and run about 3 inches (8 cm.) in size. The flavor is sweet with tart overtones and delightfully juicy.

Growing Red Baron Peaches

This is a fast-growing tree that will produce in just a few years. Trees come either ball and burlap, container grown, or bare root. Prepare the area well by incorporating several inches (8 cm.) of compost and ensuring good drainage. The site should be full sun and out of strong wind. Avoid planting in frost pockets. Soak bare root trees for several hours prior to planting. Build a little pyramid of soil at the bottom of a hole that is twice as wide and deep as the roots. Settle the roots on top of this pyramid and back fill, packing the soil around the roots. Water plants in well. Prevent weed pests and keep moderately moist. Provide a tree stake during the first two years so the central leader stays straight and strong.

Red Baron Peach Care

Young plants will need some pruning guidance initially to develop strong branches. Train the tree to an open vase-like shape. Water approximately three times per week in the summer. Feed the tree in spring at bud break with a balanced fertilizer. Watch for pests and disease. Probably the most common diseases are fungal and can be prevented by early application of fungicide. In some areas, various animals can pose a danger to the trunk. Use caging around the tree for the first few years if you have those types of problems. With minimal care, you will be harvesting Red Baron peaches in just three to five years and for years after.

Dwarf peach tree varieties make life easier for gardeners who want a bounteous harvest of sweet juicy peaches without the challenge of caring for full-size trees. At heights of only 6 to 10 feet (2 to 3 m.), small peach trees are easy to maintain, and they’re ladder-free. As an added bonus, peach tree dwarf cultivars produce fruit in a year or two, compared to about three years for full-size peach trees. The most difficult task is selecting from so many wonderful kinds of dwarf peach trees. Read on for a few tips on selecting peach tree dwarf cultivars.

Dwarf Peach Tree Varieties

Small peach trees aren’t difficult to grow, but they are only moderately tolerant of cold temperatures. Peach tree dwarf cultivars are suitable for USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, although some are tough enough to withstand chilly winters in zone 4. •El Dorado is a medium-size, early summer peach with rich, yellow flesh and red-blushed yellow skin. •O’Henry are small peach trees with large, firm fruit ready for mid-season harvest. Peaches are yellow with red streaks. •Donut, also known as Stark Saturn, is an early producer of medium-sized, donut-shaped fruit. The freestone peaches are white with a red blush. •Reliance is a good choice for gardeners as far north as USDA zone 4. This self-pollinating tree ripens in July. •Golden Gem, favored for its excellent flavor, produces an early harvest of large, yellow fruit. •Intrepid is a cold-hardy, disease-resistant peach tree that blooms in late spring. The sweet, yellow-fleshed fruit is ideal for baking, canning, freezing or eating fresh. •Redwing produces an early harvest of medium-sized peaches with juicy white flesh. Skin is yellowish covered with red. •Southern Sweet produces medium-sized freestone peaches with red and yellow skin. •Orange Cling, also known as Miller Cling, is a large, clingstone peach with golden yellow flesh and red-blushed skin. Trees are ready for harvest mid- to late season. •Bonanza II produces large, sweet-smelling peaches with attractive red and yellow skin. Harvest is in midseason. •Redhaven is a self-pollinating tree that produces all-purpose peaches with smooth skin and creamy yellow flesh. Look for peaches to ripen in mid-July in most climates. •Halloween produces large, yellow peaches with a red blush. As the name suggests, this late peach is ready for harvest in late autumn. •Southern Rose ripens early, producing medium-size yellow peaches with a red blush.

O’Henry peach trees produce large, yellow freestone peaches, popular for their excellent flavor. They are vigorous, heavy-bearing fruit trees considered an excellent choice for the home orchard. If you are considering growing O’Henry peaches, you’ll want to find out where these peach trees do best. Read on for information about these trees as well as tips on O’Henry peach tree care.

About O’Henry Peach Trees

Given that O’Henry peaches are an extremely popular market cultivar, you may have sampled an O’Henry peach. If you haven’t yet, you are really in for a treat. Fruit from O’Henry trees is both delicious and beautiful. The firm, yellow flesh is streaked with red and has a superb flavor. O’Henry peaches are medium-sized trees. They grow to 30 feet (9 m.) tall with a 15 foot (4.5 m.) spread. That means that these tree fit quite nicely into a modest home orchard.

How to Grow O’Henry Peaches

Those wondering how to grow O’Henry peaches should first figure out the hardiness zone in their home location. Growing O’Henry peaches is only possible in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. These fruit trees require at least 700 chilling hours a year of temperatures that drop to 45 degrees F. (7 C.) or less. On the other hand, O’Henry cannot tolerate extreme winter cold or late frost. When you start growing these peach trees, it is critical to select a sunny site. Peaches require lots of direct, unfiltered sun to produce their crops. Plant the tree in sandy soil where it gets at least six hours of sun.

O’Henry Peach Tree Care

Peach trees, in general, require a lot of maintenance and O’Henry peach tree care is right up there with the other varieties. You’ll need to do more than water your tree regularly, but in exchange, you can expect many years of heavy, delicious peach crops. You’ll need to fertilize your tree when you plant it to help it establish a good root system. Extra phosphorus is important at this time. Established trees require less fertilizer. Plan to fertilize every few years early in the growing season. Irrigation is also very important. Don’t neglect this during dry weather or you may lose your entire peach harvest. Peach trees also require pruning and this is an important part of O’Henry peach tree care. The trees must be correctly pruned from the time of planting for proper growth and development. If you are not sure how to do peach tree pruning, call in an expert annually to help with the job.

A peach tree is a great choice for growing fruit in zones 5 through 9. Peach trees produce shade, spring flowers, and of course delicious summer fruit. If you’re looking for something a little different, maybe another variety to act as a pollinator, try the Arctic Supreme white peach.

What are Arctic Supreme Peaches?

Peaches can have flesh that is yellow or white, and Arctic Supreme has the latter. This white-fleshed peach has red and yellow skin, a firm texture, and a flavor that is both sweet and tart. In fact, the taste of this peach variety has won it a few awards in blind tests. The Arctic Supreme tree is self-fertile, so you don’t need another peach variety for pollination but having one nearby will increase fruit yield. The tree produces an abundance of pink flowers in mid-spring, and the peaches are ripe and ready to harvest as early as late July or through the fall, depending on your location and climate. For the perfect fresh-eating peach, Arctic Supreme is hard to beat. It’s juicy, sweet, tart, and firm, and reaches peak flavor within a few days of picking. If you can’t eat your peaches that quickly, you can preserve them by making jams or preserves or by canning or freezing them.

Growing an Arctic Supreme Peach Tree

The size of tree you’ll get depends on the rootstock. Arctic Supreme often comes on a semi-dwarf rootstock, which means you’ll need room for your tree to grow 12 to 15 feet (3.6 to 4.5 m.) up and across. Citation is a common semi-dwarf rootstock for this variety. It has some resistance to root knot nematodes and tolerance for wet soil. Your new peach tree will need enough room to grow in a spot that gets full sun and with soil that drains well. You may get some moisture tolerance through the rootstock, but your Arctic Supreme peach tree will not tolerate drought. Water it well throughout the first growing season and then as needed in subsequent years. This tree will also need yearly pruning, more so in the first few years as you shape it. Prune each dormant season to encourage healthy growth and to thin out branches and keep good airflow between them. Start checking your tree from mid- to late-summer for tasty ripe peaches and enjoy the harvest.

The peach ‘Nectar’ variety is an outstanding white, freestone fruit. The "nectar" in the name refers to its amazingly sweet flavor and soft flesh. Nectar peach trees are fairly tall but there are semi-dwarf trees available. These plants are prolific producers with good care. Keep reading for some info on how to grow a nectar peach and management tips.

About Nectar Peach Trees

Peach season is a treat. Nectar peaches are considered mid-season fruits with harvest dates from early to mid-July. They are one of the more popular of the white peach varieties, noted for their creamy flesh and delicious juice-on-your-chin flavor. Like most stone fruits, Nectar peach care is minimal once established, but young plants need some training and a little TLC to develop correctly. This tree originated in Bakersfield, C.A. by Oliver P. Blackburn and was introduced in 1935. While full sized trees can get up to 25 feet (8 m.), the semi-dwarfs remain just 15 feet (4.5 m.) in height. The peach ‘Nectar’ variety is reliably hardy to USDA zones 6 to 9. In colder regions, the semi-dwarfs can be grown in containers in a greenhouse. The fruits are large and have that peach perfect blush on the fuzzy skin. The pure white flesh is tinged pink where the easy to remove stone rested. This is a good peach for fresh eating but also for baking and preserving.

How to Grow a Nectar Peach

Nectar peaches are self-fruitful but do need a region that will provide at least 800 hours of chilling time. Light, well-draining, slightly sandy soil is perfect for Nectar peach growing. Full sun sites promote the development of the showy flowers and resulting fruit. Choose a site with some wind protection and avoid planting where frost pockets develop. Young trees may need staking and some judicious pruning to form an open canopy with strong peripheral limbs. One of the main tips on Nectar peach growing is to provide plenty of water. Keep soil evenly moist but not soggy.

Nectar Peach Care

Feed peach trees in early spring annually with well-rotted compost or a 10-10-10 formula. You may also use liquid kelp on the foliage every three to four weeks, but be cautious and only spray when leaves will have time to dry before nightfall. This will help prevent fungal diseases. Prune trees to promote an open center, vase shape. Prune in early spring before buds appear. Peaches produce fruit on one year old wood. Rub off unwanted shoots as they appear to prevent heavy loads at the end of the branches. Cut back 1/3 of the wanted branches each season. Mulch around the base of the tree to protect the root zone from freezes, conserve moisture, and prevent competitive weeds.

When thinking about where peach trees are grown, often the warm climates of the southern United States, particularly Georgia, come to mind. If you don’t live in a warm region but love peaches, don’t despair; try growing Golden Jubilee peach trees. Golden Jubilee peaches can be grown in USDA zones 5-9. The following article contains information on how to grow a Golden Jubilee peach variety.

What are Golden Jubilee Peaches?

Golden Jubilee peach trees produce mid-season peaches that can be grown in cooler climates. They need about 800 chilling hours, temperatures below 45 F. (7 C.), to set fruit. They are a hybrid peach whose parent is the Elberta peach. The Golden Jubilee peach variety produces yellow-fleshed, sweet and juicy, freestone peaches that are ready for harvest in summer. The trees bloom in the spring with scented pink-tinted blossoms, which give way to yellow fruit with a flush of scarlet that can be used for canning or eating fresh. Golden Jubilee peach trees are available in both dwarf and standard sizes and will attain heights of between 15-25 feet (4.5 to 8 m.) with an 8-20 foot (2-6 m.) spread. It is a rapidly growing tree that is adaptable to a variety of soils as well as cool climates. Golden Jubilee will begin bearing at the age of 3-4 years.

How to Grow a Golden Jubilee

Growing a Golden Jubilee peach tree is an excellent choice for gardeners with smaller landscapes because it is self-fruitful, meaning it doesn’t require another peach for pollination. That said, like many self-fruitful trees, it will benefit from having another peach nearby. Plan to plant the tree in the spring when it is still dormant. Pick a site that is in full sun, with at least 6 hours of sun per day. While Golden Jubilee peaches are not too picky regarding their soil, it should be well draining and with a preferred pH of 6.5. Soak the roots of the tree for 6-12 hours prior to planting. Dig a hole that is as deep as the container the peach is in and a bit wider to allow for spreading the roots. Put the tree in the hole, spreading the roots out gently, and backfill with the removed soil. Tamp down around the tree. Golden Jubilee should be watered in well after planting. Thereafter, rainfall may be sufficient irrigation, but if not, water the tree with an inch (2.5 cm) of water per week. Lay a layer of mulch around the tree, taking care to keep away from the trunk, to retain moisture and retard weeds.

If you’ve always wanted to grow fruit trees but have limited space, Bonanza dwarf peaches are your dream come true. These miniature fruit trees can be grown in small yards and even in patio containers, and they still produce full-size, delicious peaches each summer.

Bonanza Peach Tree Information

Bonanza miniature peach trees are dwarf fruit trees that only grow to about 5 or 6 feet (1.5 to 2 m.) tall. And the tree will grow well in zones 6 through 9, so it is an option for many home gardeners. The fruits are large and sweet, with a delicious flavor and juicy, yellow flesh. These are freestone peaches, so they are easy to free from the pit. Not only is this a compact tree that produces tasty fruits, it is also a great ornamental. Bonanza produces pretty, dark green and glossy leaves and an abundance of pink, spring flowers. In a container, when trimmed regularly to keep a nice shape, this is a very attractive little tree.

How to Grow and Care for a Bonanza Peach Tree

Before you get you get into Bonanza peach growing, be sure you have the space and conditions for it. It is a small tree, but it will still need enough room to grow up and out in full sun conditions. Bonanza is self-pollinating, so you won’t need an additional peach tree to set fruit. If using a container, pick one that is large enough for your tree to grow into, but also expect that you may need to transplant it in the future to a larger pot. Amend soil if it doesn’t drain well or is not very rich. Water the Bonanza tree regularly during the first growing season and prune while it’s dormant to shape the tree and keep it healthy. If you put it directly into the ground, you shouldn’t have to water the tree much after the first season, but container trees need more regular moisture. Bonanza peaches are early, so expect to start harvesting and enjoying the fruit from early to mid-summer depending on your location and climate. These peaches are delicious eaten fresh, but you can also can or freeze them to preserve them for later and bake and cook with them.

If you love peaches but not the fuzz, you can grow nectarines, or try growing Babcock peach trees. They do tend to bloom early and are unsuitable for areas with late frost, but Babcock peaches are an excellent choice for mild climates. Interested in growing your own Babcock peach fruit? Read on to learn helpful tips about Babcock peach tree growing and care.

Babcock Peach Fruit Information

Babcock peaches date back to 1933. They were developed out of a joint low chill breeding effort by the University of California Riverside and Chaffey Junior college in Ontario, CA. The peach was named after the professor, E.B. Babcock, who originally started research on the development. It is most likely a cross between the Strawberry peach and Peento peach, and shares their characteristic firm flesh and sub-acid flavor. Babcock peaches blooms with a profusion of showy pink blossoms in the spring. The subsequent fruit is a white peach that was the gold standard of white peaches at one time. It is a prodigious bearer of sweet, juicy, aromatic freestone peaches. The flesh is bright white with red near the pit and the skin is light pink with a blush of red. It has nearly fuzzless skin.

Growing Babcock Peach Trees

Babcock peach trees have low chill requirements (250 chill hours) and are very vigorous trees that do not need another pollinator, although one will contribute to a higher yield of larger fruit. Babcock trees are medium to large trees, 25 feet tall (8 m.) and 20 feet (6 m.) across, although their size can be restrained through pruning. They are hardy in USDA zones 6-9. Plant Babcock peaches in full sun, at least 6 hours of sun per day, in fertile, well-draining, and somewhat sandy soil with a pH of 7.0.

Babcock Peach Tree Care

Provide the trees with an inch (2.5 cm) of water per week depending upon weather conditions. Mulch around the trees to help retain moisture and retard weeds but remember to keep the mulch away from the trunks. Prune the trees in the winter when they are dormant to restrain height, shape, and remove any broken, diseased or crossed branches. The tree will fruit in its third year and should be processed or eaten almost immediately since Babcock peach fruit has a fairly short shelf life.

Elberta peaches are called America’s favorite peach trees and are among the most prolific around, a winning combination for those with home orchards. If you want to grow an Elberta peach tree in your backyard, you’ll want a little more information on these trees. Read on for tips on how to get started with Elberta peach growing.

About Elberta Peach Trees

Elberta peach trees have so much going for them that it’s hard to know where to start. This wildly popular peach variety was developed in Georgia in 1875 by Samuel H. Rumph, who named it after his wife, Clara Elberta Moore. Those engaged in Elberta peach growing consider the tree to be among the best fruit producers. With just one tree, you can get up to 150 pounds (68 kg.) of peaches in a season. Elberta peaches are also extremely ornamental in the garden. When their spring blooms open, their branches are filled with gorgeous pink and purple flowers. The peach fruit soon follows and are ready to harvest in summer.

Grow an Elberta Peach Tree

Elberta peach trees give you large, sweet peaches that are perfect for canning, snacking, and baking. The fruit are beautiful as well as delicious, ripening to a deep, golden yellow with a red blush. When you are ready to grow an Elberta peach tree yourself, there are several matters to consider. First is climate. These trees thrive in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. That means that if you live in a hot or cold area, it may not be very wise. Another consideration is size. A standard Elberta peach tree can grow to 24 feet (7 m). tall with a similar spread. The dwarf version grows no taller than 10 feet (3 m.). For Elberta peach growing, you’ll need to plant the tree in a sunny location getting at least six hours of direct sun a day. The soil should be sandy and well-drained.

Care for Elberta Peaches

Care for Elberta peaches is not difficult. The trees are self-fertile, which means that they do not require a second tree for pollination. However, they may produce better if you plant a second tree. The most important thing you need to do to care for Elberta peaches is irrigation. These trees are not drought tolerant and will require regular watering.

What is a Contender peach tree? Why should I consider growing Contender peaches? This disease-resistant peach tree produces generous crops of medium to large, sweet, juicy freestone peaches. Have we piqued your curiosity? Read on and learn how to grow Contender peaches.

Contender Peach Facts

Contender peach trees are cold hardy and tolerant of sub-zero temperatures. Although Contender peaches grow in a wide diversity of climates, they are especially prized by northern gardeners. Contender peach trees were developed at North Carolina Agricultural Experiment Station in 1987. They are favored by home gardeners, not only for the quality of the fruit, but for the masses of pink blooms in springtime. Growing Contender peaches is easy, and the tree’s mature height of 10 to 15 feet (3 to 5 m.) simplifies pruning, spraying and harvesting.

How to Grow Contender Peaches

Contender peach trees are self-pollinating. However, a pollinator in close proximity may result in a larger crop. Plant the trees where they receive at least six to eight hours of full sunlight per day. Allow 12 to 15 feet (4-5 m.) between trees. Avoid locations with heavy clay, as Contender peach trees require well-drained soil. Similarly, peach trees tend to struggle in fast-draining sandy soil. Before planting, amend the soil with generous amounts of dry leaves, grass clippings or compost. Once established, Contender peaches generally don’t need supplemental irrigation if you receive an average of about an inch (2.5 cm.) or more of water per week. However, it’s a good idea to give the tree a thorough soaking every seven to 10 days during dry periods. Fertilize Contender peach trees when the tree begins bearing fruit, generally after two to four years. Feed the peach trees in early spring, using a peach tree or orchard fertilizer. Never fertilize Contender peach trees after July 1. Pruning should be done when the tree is dormant; otherwise, you may weaken the tree. You can remove suckers during the summer, but avoid pruning during that time.

White peaches have low or sub-acid flesh as compared to the yellow varieties. The flesh may be pure white or even lightly blushed but has a sweeter taste than the traditional yellow. White fleshed peaches have lovely, floral notes that perfume fresh fruit salads or delightfully invade the nose during fresh eating. Check out some popular white peach varieties as you decide which one to add to your garden.

History of Peaches with White Flesh

For me, white peaches are the only peach. The delicate flavor and intense scent are a delight to the nose and palate. Peaches that are white tend to bruise more easily than the yellow but can be stored carefully for a short time. In most cases, they probably will be eaten so quickly it won't matter. There are many varieties of white peach, each with different chill hour requirements and a variety of harvest dates. White peaches weren't always as popular as they are today. When they initially arose as sports, orchard owners would feed them to pigs or throw them away, as they were considered inferior to the desired yellow peaches. One of the heirlooms from that time that has survived is Stump of the Earth. Dating to 1825, this variety is still enjoyed today and in spite of its less than picturesque name, this early season peach is prized for its unusual flavor. Other heirlooms are Polly White, from the 1920s, and Roddenberry, which has been grown in Florida for over 100 years. Step forward to the 1980s, where consumers began to demand a higher variety of fruits and enjoy the less acidic profile of the white fruit, and fruit trials developed dozens of new white fleshed varieties.

Lower Chill Hour White Fleshed Peaches

Among the white fleshed peaches are those that need as little as 500 to as much as 1,000 chill hours. Warm to temperate region gardeners should select those with the lower chill requirement. Some of these varieties have as little as 200 hours chilling requirement:

• Snow Angel - A clingstone that can ripen as early as the end of April, 200 hours
• Snow Lady - Pretty, pinkish red fruit by May, 300 hours
• Sauzee Lady - Cute, saucer shaped fruit, 300 hours
• Rich Snow White - Large fruit that stores well, 400 hours
• Sauzee Queen - Medium, blushed clingstone, 500 hours
• Galaxy White - Saucer shaped June producer, 500-600 hours

Higher Chill White Peach Varieties

Among the varieties of peaches that are white are those suited for cooler regions. Most of these will be ready for harvest in June to early July. There are both round and 'peento' or saucer-shaped fruits available. Some excellent examples of these white varieties are:

• Aspen White - Large clingstone with firm flesh, 600 hours
• Klondike White - Large red fruit ready in June, 700-800 hours
• Sierra Snow - Large clingstone with low acid, 700-800 hours
• Snow Beauty - Beautiful blushed, large fruits, 700-800 hours
• Snow Fire - Not ready until August but delicious fruits, 700-800 hours
• Snow Giant - Big creamy, blushed fruit, 800-900 hours
• Sauzee Giant - Peento form with rich, sweet flesh, 850 hours
• Snow King - Deeply pink, medium sized fruit with good handling abilities, 900-1,000 hours
• September Snow - Worth the wait, large with good shipping qualities, 900-1,000 hours

Peaches may be either white or yellow (or fuzz-less, otherwise known as a nectarine) but regardless they have the same ripening range and characteristics. Peaches that are yellow are just a matter of preference and to those that prefer yellow flesh peaches, there are countless yellow peach cultivars.

About Peaches That are Yellow

There are over 4,000 peach and nectarine varieties with new ones constantly being bred. Of course, not all of these cultivars are available on the market. Unlike apple varieties, most peaches look similar to the average person, so no singular variety has dominated the market, which allows peach tree breeders to continue to come up with new improved varieties. Perhaps the biggest choice a prospective grower must make is whether to grow clingstone, freestone, or semi-clingstone fruit. Clingstone yellow peach cultivars are those whose flesh adheres to the pit. They often have fibrous, firm flesh and are usually the early-season, yellow peach varieties. Freestone refers to peaches where the flesh easily separates from the pit when the fruit is cut in half. People that want to eat peaches fresh out of hand often prefer freestone yellow peaches. Semi-clingstone or semi-freestone, just means that the fruit is primarily freestone by the time it has ripened.

Cultivars of Yellow Flesh Peaches

Rich May is a small to medium early-season variety, primarily red over yellow green clingstone with firm flesh and acidic taste and a medium susceptibility to bacterial spot.  Queencrest is similar in all respects to Rich May but ripens slightly later. Spring Flame is a medium, semi-clingstone with good fruit size and flavor and a high susceptibility to bacterial spot. Desire NJ 350 is a medium-sized, red over yellow colored clingstone. Sunbrite is a small to medium, clingstone peach that ripens around June 28-July 3. Flamin Fury is a small to medium, scarlet over greenish yellow clingstone with medium, firm flesh and good flavor. Carored is an early-season, small to medium, yellow flesh clingstone peach with “melting” good flavor. Spring Prince is another small to medium clingstone with fair to good flavor. Early Star has firm, melting flesh and is very productive. Harrow Dawn produces medium peaches that are recommended for home orchards. Ruby Prince is a medium-sized, semi-clingstone peach that has a melting flesh and good flavor. Sentry produces medium to large peaches, has low susceptibility to bacterial spot, and ripens around the second week of July. The list is improbably long for yellow fleshed peaches and the above is only a small selection based only on the number of days from ripening after Red Haven. Red Haven is a hybrid introduced in 1940 that is a consistent producer of semi-freestone peaches of moderate size with firm flesh and good flavor. It is somewhat of the gold standard for commercial peach orchards, as it is tolerant of low winter temperatures and a reliable producer.

Shot hole is a disease affecting several fruit trees, including peaches. It leads to lesions on leaves and eventual leaf drop, and it can sometimes cause unsightly lesions on fruits. But how do you go about treating peach shot hole disease? Keep reading to learn more about what causes peach shot hole and how to prevent and treat it.

What Causes Peach Shot Hole Disease?

Peach shot hole, sometimes also called coryneum blight, is caused by a fungus called Wilsonomyces carpophilus. The most common symptoms of peach shot hole fungus are lesions on the twigs, buds, and leaves. These lesions start out as small, dark purple spots. Over time, these spots spread and turn brown, usually with a purple border. Eventually, dark bumps will form in the center of each lesion – these release spores that further spread the disease. Infected buds turn dark brown to black and shiny with gum. On infected leaves, the center of these lesions will often fall out, creating the “shot hole” appearance that earns the disease its name. In wet weather, the fungus will sometimes spread to the fruits, where it develops dark brown and purple spots on the skin and hard, corky areas in the flesh underneath.

Treating Peach Shot Hole

Peach shot hole fungus overwinters in old lesions and spreads its spores in damp weather, especially with splashing water. The most common method of treating peach shot hole is the spraying of fungicide in the autumn just after leaf drop, or in the spring just before budbreak. If peach shot hole has been known to be a problem in past seasons, it’s a good idea to prune out and destroy infected wood. Try to keep trees dry, and never irrigate in a way that wets the leaves. For organic treatments, zinc sulfate and copper sprays have been shown to be effective.

Phytophthora root rot of peach is a destructive disease that afflicts peach trees around the world. Unfortunately, the pathogens, which live under the soil, may go unrecognized until the infection is advanced and symptoms are obvious. With early action, you may be able to save a tree with peach phytophthora root rot. However, prevention is the best means of control. Read on to learn more.

About Phytophthora Root Rot of Peach

Trees with peach phytophthora root rot are usually found in soggy, poorly drained areas, especially where the soil stays heavy and wet for 24 hours or more. Phytophthora root rot of peach is somewhat unpredictable and may kill the tree gradually over a few years, or an apparently healthy tree may decline and die suddenly after new growth appears in spring. Symptoms of peach with phytophthora rot include stunted growth, wilting, reduced vigor and yellowing leaves. Leaves of trees that die slowly often display a reddish-purple coloration in autumn, which should still be bright green.

Phytophthora Root Rot Control

Certain fungicides are effective for treating young trees before symptoms appear. This is critical if you’re planting trees where phytophthora root rot of peach has been present in the past. Fungicides may slow progression of phytophthora root rot if the disease is spotted in the early stages. Unfortunately, once phytophthora root rot takes hold, there isn’t much you can do. That’s why preventing phytophthora root rot of peaches is important and your best line of defense. Start by selecting peach tree varieties that are less susceptible to disease. If you don’t have a good spot for peaches, you may want to consider plums or pears, which tend to be relatively resistant. Avoid locations where the soil remains wet or is prone to seasonal flooding. Planting trees on a berm or ridge may promote better drainage. Avoid overwatering, especially in spring and autumn when the soil is most susceptible to soggy conditions and disease. Treat soil around newly planted peach trees using a fungicide registered for treatment of phytophthora root rot of peaches.

Very few things evoke summertime memories quite like the taste of a juicy, ripe peach. For many gardeners, the addition of a peach tree in the home garden is not only nostalgic, but is also a valuable addition to the sustainable landscape. A staple in the gardens of yesteryear, peach trees, such as ‘Suncrest,’ provide growers with fresh fruits which are excellent for baked goods, canning, and fresh eating.

Suncrest Peach Tree Info

Suncrest peach trees are a heavy producing, large freestone peach. First introduced in California, Suncrest peach fruit is firm with juicy yellow flesh. Though generally easy to grow, there are some requirements in which growers must take into account when choosing to plant peach trees. Thriving in USDA growing zones 5 through 9, these trees will require at least 500 to 650 chill hours to ensure a beautiful springtime bloom. At maturity, it is not uncommon that these self-fertile (self-fruitful) trees can reach heights of 12 to 16 feet (3.5-5 m.). Due to this, those wishing to grow Suncrest peaches will require ample space, especially if choosing to plant more than one tree. Since these trees are self-fertile, however, Suncrest peach trees do not require the planting of an additional pollinator peach tree to ensure fruit set.

How to Grow Suncrest Peaches

Due to various factors such as unviable seeds, slow germination, and seeds that do not grow true-to-type, it is best to grow peaches from saplings. Peach tree saplings are easily found in plant nurseries and garden centers, but those wishing to grow Suncrest peaches may need to obtain the trees through an online retailer. When ordering online, always make certain to order only from reputable sources to ensure that saplings are healthy and disease free. When ready to plant, remove the fruit tree from the container and soak in water for at least one hour. Choose a warm, well-draining location in direct sunlight. Dig and amend a planting hole that is at least twice as wide and twice as deep as the plant’s root ball. Gently lower the plant into the hole and begin to fill it in with soil, being careful not to cover the collar of the plant. After planting, water thoroughly and mulch around the base of the tree. Once established, maintain a proper care routine which includes frequent pruning, irrigation, and fertilization.

Some toxic plants are poisonous from the roots to the tips of the leaves and others only have toxic berries or leaves. Take peaches, for instance. Many of us love the juicy, delicious fruit and probably never thought about eating any other part of the tree, and that’s a good thing. Peach trees are primarily toxic to humans, except for peach sap from trees. Undoubtedly, most of us never thought about eating gum from peach trees but, in fact, you can eat peach resin.

Can You Eat Peach Resin?

Is peach sap edible? Yes, peach sap is edible. In fact, it is commonly ingested in Chinese culture. The Chinese have been eating peach tree resin for thousands of years. It is used for both medicinal and culinary purposes.

Peach Sap from Trees

Usually, peach tree resin is purchased packaged. It looks like hardened amber. While the Chinese have been eating gum from peach trees for centuries, they don’t just harvest it off the tree and pop it in their mouths. Prior to eating peach tree resin, it must be soaked overnight or up to 18 hours and then slowly brought to a boil and cooked down. It is then cooled and any impurities, such as dirt or bark, are picked from it. Then, once the resin is clean, depending upon the use for the peach tree resin, additives are mixed in. Peach gum is commonly used in Chinese sweets but it may also be used to nourish the body or as an emollient to rejuvenate the skin. It is said to create firmer skin with less wrinkles and to cleanse the blood, build up the immune system, remove cholesterol, and balance the body's pH. Seems that peach resin has quite the health benefits but, remember, it’s imperative that you are completely knowledgeable prior to eating any part of a plant and always consult with your doctor beforehand.

Stone fruit diseases can wreak havoc on a crop. This is especially true with bacterial canker on peach trees. Bacterial canker symptoms can be difficult to catch in time as trees may leaf out and fruit normally initially. The disease primarily affects trees that are up to seven years of age. Treating peach bacterial canker relies upon good culture and minimizing any injury to trees. Continue reading to find out what causes peach bacterial canker and how to keep your peach tree healthy.

Bacterial Canker Symptoms

Peach bacterial canker is associated with a syndrome called Peach Tree Short Life. With a name like that, it is evident what the ultimate outcome is without adequate peach bacterial canker control. It is a slow death that results in an unhealthy tree with little to no fruit and an untimely demise. It can be hard to initially recognize bacterial canker on peach trees. By the time your eyes can see the signs, the tree is likely in great distress. The bacteria causes the most damage when trees are dormant or unhealthy for other reasons. Just at leaf break, cankers form on stem and trunk tissue. These develop copious amounts of gum that eventually breaks through the plant matter. The result is a sticky, smelly, cancerous lesion. Prior to this, the plant may experience tip die back and some leaf distortion. Once the canker is filled with the gum, any plant material beyond it will die.

What Causes Peach Bacterial Canker?

The pathogen is the bacterium Pseudomonas syringae, but its effects rely upon conditional and cultural situations. The disease progresses rapidly in rainy, cool weather and is dispersed by windy conditions. Any small injury in a plant can invite the introduction of the disease. Freeze damage and winter injury are the most frequent ways the pathogen gets into the tree. The disease development stops during warm periods, however, the bacteria overwinters in buds, margins of cankers, and the tree itself. The following spring brings forth more growth of the disease and potential spread.

Peach Bacterial Canker Control

Good cultural conditions can prevent much of the damage from this disease. At planting, select sites that are well draining and use rootstocks that are resistant to the pathogen. Keeping the tree healthy with suggested peach fertilizing, minimizing other disease and pest issues, and proper pruning techniques can also diminish the effects of the disease. Sanitary practices on all tools used can reduce the transfer of the bacteria from tree to tree. Some growers suggest treating peach bacterial canker by pruning in January or February. Remove at least 12 inches (31 cm.) below cankers and dispose of the infected tree material. Another suggestion is an application of copper fungicide just at leaf drop, but this seems to have minimal effect.

Peach waterlogging can be a real problem when growing this stone fruit. Peach trees are sensitive to standing water and the issue can reduce crop yield and even kill a tree if it is not addressed. The best way to handle the situation when a peach tree is waterlogged is to avoid it happening in the first place.

Waterlogging Peach Tree Problems

While most crop plants prefer not to have standing water, some can tolerate it better than others. Peach trees are not on that list. They are very sensitive to waterlogging. Standing water around the roots of a tree can cause serious problems. The main issue is that the waterlogging creates an anaerobic environment for the roots. Roots need access to oxygen in the soil to be healthy and to grow. Signs of waterlogged peach trees include color changes in the leaves from healthy green to yellow or even a deep red or purple. The leaves may then begin to shed. Ultimately, the roots will die. When investigated, the dead roots will look black or dark purple on the inside and give off a terrible smell.

How to Avoid Peaches in Standing Water

The key to avoiding peach waterlogging is to prevent overwatering and the collection of standing water. Knowing how much to water a peach tree is a good starting point. About an inch (2.5 cm.) of water during any week without rain should be adequate. It is also important to plant peach trees in areas where the soil will drain well or to amend the soil to drain. Agricultural research has shown that growing peach trees on raised ridges or beds can also keep the soil drier and prevent water from standing around the roots. You can also minimize the risks of waterlogging by selecting certain rootstocks. Peach trees grafted to Prunus japonica, P. salicina, and P. cerasifera have been shown to survive waterlogging better than those on other rootstocks. Being especially sensitive to it, waterlogging is a serious issue with peach trees. Great care should be taken to prevent standing water to avoid lower fruit yields and even the death of your fruit trees.

Peach root knot nematodes are tiny roundworms that live in the soil and feed on the roots of the tree. The damage is sometimes insignificant and may go undiagnosed for several years. However, in some cases, it may be severe enough to weaken or kill the peach tree. Let’s explore peach nematode control and how to prevent peaches with root knot nematodes.

About Root Knot Nematodes of Peach Trees

Peach root knot nematodes puncture cells and pump digestive enzymes into the cell. Once the contents of the cell are digested, they are drawn back into the nematode. When the contents of one cell are depleted, the nematode moves on to a new cell. Root knot nematodes aren’t visible above ground and symptoms of nematodes in peach trees, including stunted growth, wilting, and yellowing of leaves, may resemble dehydration or other problems that prevent the tree from taking up water and nutrients. Nematode damage is easier to spot on the roots, which may display hard, gnarled knots or galls, retarded growth, or rot. Root knot nematodes of peach move through the soil very slowly, traveling only a few feet (1 m.) per year. However, the pests are transported quickly in water run-off from irrigation or rain, or on contaminated plant material or farm equipment.

Preventing Peach with Root Knot Nematodes

Plant only certified nematode-free seedlings. Work generous amounts of compost or other organic matter into the soil to improve soil quality and reduce peach tree stress. Sanitize garden equipment thoroughly with a weak bleach solution before and after working in affected soil. Soil clinging to tools can transmit nematodes to uninfected soil or re-infect treated soil. Be aware that nematodes can also be transmitted on vehicle tires or shoes. Avoid overwatering and soil runoff.

Peach Nematode Control

Application of a nematicide may help control peach root knot nematodes in established trees, but the chemicals are expensive and generally reserved for commercial growing operations and not for home use. Experts at your local cooperative extension office can provide more detail about nematicides, and if they are appropriate for your particular situation.

In recent years growing interest in home gardening and self-sufficiency has led to the establishment of a new movement in growing your own food. Now, more than ever, enthusiastic gardeners can be found cultivating food in even the smallest of spaces. With this, the popularity of dwarf varieties of fruit trees has skyrocketed. The ‘Pix Zee’ dwarf peach tree is just one example of the way in which home growers are now able to harvest delectable fresh fruits straight from their yards, balconies, and container plantings.

What is a Pix Zee Peach?

As the name implies, ‘Pix Zee’ is a variety of small, dwarf peach tree. Due to its compact size, often reaching no larger than 6 feet (2 m.) tall, Pix Zee peaches are the perfect candidates for home gardeners who wish to begin growing fruit but lack access to the larger spaces required to establish larger fruit trees. Not only does this factor make the trees ideal candidates for growth in urban backyards, but it also makes them a good choice for growers wishing to grow peach trees in containers. Hardy to USDA growing zones 6 to 9, the Pix Zee peach tree will require at least 400 chill hours throughout the cool season to blossom and set fruit. Though pollination may be enhanced by the presence of multiple peach trees at bloom time, Pix Zee trees are self-fertile (self-fruitful) and do not need a pollinator tree.

Growing a Pix Zee Miniature Peach Tree

Since this variety of peach cannot be grown true-to-seed, growers will need to obtain Pix Zee miniature peach tree saplings. While it is sometimes possible to find these plants locally at nurseries or garden centers, some gardeners wishing to grow this variety may need to place an order online. When ordering online, make certain to order only from reputable sources, as to receive healthy and disease-free plants. Growing this tree is much like planting any other cultivar of peach. Pix Zee will thrive in a well-draining location in direct sunlight. Once a site has been chosen, soak the root ball of the peach tree in water for at least one hour before planting. Prepare the planting site by digging and amending a hole twice as wide and twice as deep as the root ball of the peach tree. Plant the tree and fill the hole with soil, making certain not to cover the collar of the tree. If choosing to plant these dwarf peaches in containers, choose wide and deep containers sufficient to support future growth of the peach plant. Once the plant has become established, maintain frequent watering and pruning regimes. This includes pruning the tree to maintain the desired height and shape, as well as the removal of some immature fruits as a means to ensure high quality harvests.

Peach trees that are showing reduced fruit size and overall growth may be infected with peach Xylella fastidiosa, or phony peach disease (PPD). What’s phony peach disease in plants? Read on to learn about recognizing the symptoms of Xylella fastidiosa on peach trees and control of this disease.

What is Phony Peach Disease?

As its name indicates, Xylella fastidiosa on peach trees is a fastidious bacterium. It lives in the plant’s xylem tissue and is spread by sharpshooter leafhoppers. X. fastidiosa, also referred to as bacterial leaf scorch, is widespread in the southeastern United States but can also be found in California, southern Ontario, and into the southern Midwestern states. Strains of the bacterium also cause various diseases in grapes, citrus, almond, coffee, elm, oak, oleander, pear, and sycamore trees.

Symptoms of Peach Xylella fastidiosa

Phony peach disease in plants was first observed in the South around 1890 on infected trees that bloomed several days earlier than their healthy counterparts. These infected trees also held onto their leaves later into the fall. By early June, infected trees appear more compact, leafier, and a darker green than uninfected trees. This is because the twigs have shortened internodes and increased lateral branching. Overall, PPD results in lower quality and yields with fruit drastically smaller than average. If a tree is infected prior to bearing age, it will never produce. Over the course of several years, infected tree wood becomes brittle.

Xylella fastidiosa Peach Control

Prune out or remove any diseased trees and destroy any wild plums that are growing nearby; June and July are the best times to observe symptoms of PPD. Control weeds near and around the trees to limit habitat for the leafhoppers and the bacterium. Also, avoid pruning during the summer months, as this will encourage new growth that leafhoppers like to feed on.

Life is just peachy unless your tree has a virus. Peach mosaic virus affects both peaches and plums. There are two ways the plant can become infected and two types of this disease. Both cause significant crop loss and plant vigor. The disease is also called Texas mosaic because it was first discovered in that state in 1931. Mosaic virus on peaches is not common but is very serious in orchard situations. Keep reading to learn more about peaches with mosaic virus.

About Mosaic Virus on Peaches

Peach trees can develop numerous diseases. Peach Texas mosaic virus stems from a vector, Eriophyes insidiosus, a tiny mite. It can also occur during grafting where infected plant material is used as either the scion or the rootstock. The symptoms are fairly obvious once you know what signs to watch for, but once a tree has the disease there are no current treatments. The two types of peach mosaic virus are hairy break and plum. The hairy break mosaic is the type to watch for in peaches. It is also called Prunus mosaic virus. It has infected the southern part of the United States and spreads easily without treatment to eradicate mites. Modern grafting has mostly cleared the virus from grafting procedures with certified disease-free root and scion material. When the disease was first discovered, a 5-year period of tree removal commenced in southern California, where over 200,000 trees were destroyed. Of the types of peach trees, the freestone cultivars are the most damaged, while clingstone types seem to be slightly resistant to mosaic virus of peach.

Symptoms of Mosaic Virus on Peaches

Early in spring, blossoms will be seen to have streaking and color break. New limbs and shoots are slow to form and are often misshapen. There is a delay in leafing and leaves produced are small, narrow, and mottled with yellow. Occasionally, the infected areas fall out of the leaf. Oddly, once temperatures climb, much of the chlorotic tissue will disappear and the leaf will resume its normal green color. The internodes become short and lateral buds break. Terminal twigs have a whorled appearance. Any fruit produced is small, lumpy, and deformed. Any fruit that does ripen is much slower than uninfected fruit and the flavor is inferior.

Prevention of Mosaic Virus of Peach

Unfortunately, there is no treatment for this disease. Trees can survive for several seasons but their fruit is not useable, so most growers opt to remove them and destroy the wood. Because the infection spreads during grafting, sourcing good budwood is extremely important. New trees should be treated with a miticide to control any of the possible vectors. Avoid injury to trees and provide good cultural care so they can survive an initial attack but over time the tree will decline and have to be removed.

Crown gall is a very common disease that affects a wide range of plants the world over. It is especially common in fruit tree orchards, and even more common among peach trees. What causes peach crown gall, and what can you do to prevent it? Keep reading to learn more about peach crown gall control and how to treat peach crown gall disease.

About Crown Gall on Peaches

What causes peach crown gall? Crown gall is a bacterial disease caused by the bacterium Agrobacterium tumefaciens. Typically, the bacteria enter the tree through wounds in the bark, which can be caused by insects, pruning, improper handling, or other environmental factors. Once inside the peach tree, the bacteria transforms healthy cells into tumor cells, and galls begin to form. The galls appear as small, wart-like masses on the tree’s roots and crown, though they can also develop higher on up the trunk and branches. They start out soft and light in color, but will eventually harden and deepen to dark brown. They can be half an inch to 4 inches (1.5-10 cm.) in diameter. Once the crown gall bacteria infects the tree’s cells, tumors may develop far from the original wound, where the bacterial aren’t even present.

How to Treat Peach Crown Gall

Peach crown gall control is mostly a game of prevention. Since the bacteria enter the tree through wounds in the bark, you can do a lot of good simply by avoiding injury. Manage pests to keep insects from boring holes. Hand pull weeds near the trunk, instead of weed whacking or mowing. Prune judiciously, and sterilize your shears between cuts. Handle saplings very carefully during transplant, as small trees can be damaged more easily, and crown gall is more devastating to their health. Antibacterial drenches have shown some promise for fighting crown gall on peaches, but for now, the prevailing treatment is simply to remove infected trees and start over again in a new, uninfected area with resistant varieties.

In recent years, interest in growing and preserving heirloom and antique varieties of fruits and vegetables has grown tremendously. Now, more than ever, gardeners are actively seeking to grow rare and unique plants from times past. One of the most exciting reasons for this revolution is to encourage diversity within garden plantings. Many fruit trees, such as the ‘Indian Blood’ peach, are excellent examples of old-time favorites being reintroduced to a new generation of gardeners. Read on to learn more about growing Indian Blood peaches.

What are Indian Blood Peach Trees?

Introduced to Mexico by the Spanish, Indian Blood peaches quickly became a cultivated crop for many Native American tribes. Treasured for its high yields, this gorgeous, deep red fleshed peach is crisp and perfect for use in canning, fresh eating, and pickling. Additionally, its hardiness and disease resistance made this variety of peach tree a staple in home orchards for decades. Over time, the commercialization of fruit production has caused this cultivar to become somewhat of a rarity.

Additional Indian Blood Peach Info

Like many fruit trees, these peach trees have several requirements in order to thrive. Indian Blood peaches are listed to require at least 750 to 900 chill hours in order to produce fruit. This requirement makes the plants hardy to USDA zones 4 through 8. Since these peaches are listed as self-fruitful, their planting does not require an additional pollinator plant. However, it is suggested that plants are able to better produce an abundant Indian Blood peach harvest when a compatible pollinator tree has been planted nearby.

How to Grow Indian Blood Peach Trees

The first step to growing this type of peach is to locate young saplings. Due to the popularity of new cultivars, it may be unlikely that growers will be able to find this plant available at local nurseries and garden centers. Luckily, these fruit trees can be found frequently through online plant sellers. When ordering, purchasing only from reputable sources will ensure the best chance of receiving a healthy and disease-free peach tree. Choose a well-draining planting location in direct sunlight. Soak the roots of the peach tree sapling in water for a few hours before planting. Dig a hole about twice as large and as deep as the root ball of the plant. Fill the planting hole with soil and cover the roots, being careful not to cover the crown of the tree. To maintain the tree, follow proper pruning procedures each season to regulate the growth of the plant and its fruit production.

Planting and establishing an orchard is one of the most rewarding and enjoyable tasks that home gardeners may undertake. High-yielding fruit trees are worth both the work and the investment when it comes time to harvest and enjoy the fresh fruits, especially peaches. If you find yourself low on space, you can still enjoy them by planting a dwarf peach tree like Eldorado.

About Eldorado Dwarf Peach Trees

Unfortunately for the home orchardist, there are quite a few limitations that must be taken into consideration when planting fruit trees. Most prominently among these limitations is the amount of space required by fruiting trees. While some mature fruit plantings may need to spacing as much as 25 ft. (8 m.) apart, dwarf trees are an excellent option for small space growers. Depending upon the size and type of fruit trees that gardeners wish to grow, planting fruits can take up valuable garden real estate for homeowners. Those living in apartments or homes without yard space may be doubly frustrated in terms of their desire to grow fresh fruit. Luckily, the new development and the introduction of dwarf fruit cultivars allow for more options and greater versatility in small spaces. One such variety of fruit tree, the ‘Eldorado Dwarf’ peach, is an excellent example of the way in which home growers are able to maintain and enjoy small-scale fruit plantings.

Growing Eldorado Miniature Peaches

Most commonly hardy to USDA zones 6 through 9, choosing the correct variety of peach tree to plant is essential to success. Planting Eldorado miniature peach trees is very similar to planting their larger-sized counterparts. Since these dwarf peaches do not grow true-to-type from seed, it is important to purchase fruit trees from a trusted and reputable source. If growing these trees outdoors, make certain to choose a well-draining location that receives at least six hours of sunlight each day. Plants will need consistent watering throughout the season, as well as pruning. Pruning and the removal of some immature fruits will ensure that enough of the plant’s energy is able to produce high-quality, nicely sized fruits. Reaching only 5 ft. (1.5 m.) tall, Eldorado peach trees are the perfect candidates for growth in containers. Choosing the correct container is essential, as the trees will require wide and deep pots. Though harvests coming from container-grown peach trees may be much smaller, growing in patio pots is a great option for those with limited space.

Gummosis is a disease that affects many fruit trees, including peach trees, and takes its name from the gummy substance that oozes from infection sites. Healthy trees can survive this infection, so provide your peach trees with the water and nutrients they need and take steps to prevent the spread of the fungus to prevent and manage infection.

What Causes Peach Gummosis?

This is a fungal disease caused by Botryosphaeria dothidea. The fungus is the infecting agent, but the illness occurs when there are injuries to the peach tree. There can be biological causes of injuries, like the bore holes of peach tree borers. Injuries that lead to fungal gummosis of peach can also be physical, such as those caused by pruning. The infection may also get into the tree through its natural lenticels. The fungus overwinters in the parts of a tree that are infected as well as in dead wood and debris on the ground. The spores can then be splashed onto healthy parts of a tree or onto other trees by rain, wind, and irrigation.

Symptoms of Peaches with Fungal Gummosis

The earliest signs of fungal gummosis of peach are the small spots on new bark that ooze resin. These are usually found around the tree’s lenticels. Over time the fungus on these spots kills tree tissue, resulting in a sunken area. The oldest sites of infection are very gummy and may even merge together to become larger, sunken spots with gummy resin. On a tree that has been infected for an extended period of time, the diseased bark begins to peel. The peeling bark often remains attached at one or two points, so the tree develops a rough, shaggy appearance and texture.

Managing Peach Gummosis Fungal Disease

Because the fungus overwinters and spreads from dead and infected debris, it is important for control of the disease to include cleaning up and destroying of all diseased and dead wood and bark. And, because peach gummosis fungus infects wounds, good peach pruning practices are important. Dead wood should be trimmed off and cuts should be made just past the collar on a branch base. Avoid pruning in summer when wounds are more vulnerable to infection. There is no good way to treat this fungal disease with fungicide, but when healthy trees are infected they can recover. Use good hygiene methods to prevent the spread of the fungus and provide plenty of water and nutrients to prevent affected trees from being stressed. The healthier the tree is, the more able it is to recover from the infection.

Growing peaches is a delight if you love this tasty fruit, but if you see the signs of rust disease you could lose your harvest. This disease is less of an issue in cooler climates, but if you are growing peaches somewhere like Florida or California, be aware of peach rust, what it looks like, and how to manage or treat it.

Peach Rust Info

If you’re wondering what causes peach rust, it is a disease caused by a fungus, Tranzschelia discolor, that spreads through the air via spores and depends on moisture to spread, grow, and cause an infection. Wet, warm conditions make peach trees more susceptible to rust disease, especially when water, either from rain or irrigation, remains on leaves for too long. The earliest sign of peach rust is the formation of cankers on twigs in spring. They occur right after petals drop and look like blisters but are small and not easy to spot. Easier to see are the lesions that form next on leaves. They are yellow on the upper parts of leaves and reddish brown spores on the lower leaves. The latter gives the disease its name, as the spores resemble rust. Fruit lesions are small brown spots that turn green to yellow as the peaches ripen. Preventing Peach Rust The best method of peach rust control is prevention. Keep leaves dry by avoiding overhead irrigation and splashing water up onto branches and leaves, giving trees plenty of space for air flow, and pruning regularly for air flow between branches. These measures are especially important in warmer climates and where there is a lot of rain, as is monitoring trees to catch signs of an infection as early as possible.

How to Treat Peach Rust

Treating peach rust means using fungicide to destroy the fungus and spores. In some areas, such as cooler climates and where there is not too much rain, a light infection may not require treatment. It will not necessarily cause a lot of damage. However, if your climate is warm and humid, treating early can help prevent a serious infection. Treating severe peach rust is not always effective. For fungicide, or sulfur treatments for organic gardening, to be effective, you need to spray trees in the spring, before signs of the disease show on the leaves. Look early in the spring for cankers on twigs and if you see them you can try to nip the disease in the bud by spraying as soon as leaves emerge.

Peach leucostoma canker is a common source of frustration among home orchardists, as well as commercial fruit growers. Infected trees not only result in lowered fruit yields, but often lead to complete loss of the plants. Prevention and management of this fungal disease is of the utmost importance, as preventing spread throughout the orchard is a high priority.

Symptoms of Leucostoma Canker of Peach Trees

Also known as cytospora peach canker, this tree disease may affect many other stone-type fruits. In addition to peaches, trees that may all develop signs of this fungal disease include:

• Apricot
• Plum
• Nectarine
• Cherry

Like many fungal diseases, peach canker is often the result of damage or injury to the tree. Damage caused by routine pruning, inclement weather, or other orchard maintenance may cause stressed fruit trees to become more susceptible to canker. This damage allows spores to begin to colonize. In the spring, growers will notice a gum-like sap secreted from the trees near a previous injury. Though healthy growth resumes during the summer, spores will once again spread and attack tree tissue over winter. Eventually, canker may spread throughout the entire branch and cause it to die.

Peach Canker Treatment

Treating already established peach canker infection is difficult, as fungicides are not effective. Removal of cankers from branches and limbs is possible, but not a cure for the disease, as spores will still be present. Infected wood should be immediately removed from the property, as spores are still able to spread after removed from the tree. Since little can be done for already established infections, the best treatment of cytospora peach canker is prevention. Cytospora canker can be easily avoided, as it seldom able to become established in healthy fruit trees. By practicing good orchard sanitation, proper pruning techniques, and adequate fertilization routines, growers are able to prevent premature fruit tree decline. In most cases, it becomes necessary to plant new fruit trees, as a means to begin establishing a new disease-free orchard. When doing so, choose a well-draining location that receives ample sunlight. Make certain that the new plants are situated far from infected trees, and purchase only from a reputable source. This will ensure purchased plants do not introduce disease into newly established orchards.

Girdling a tree is often on the list of actions to avoid in your garden. While stripping bark off a tree trunk all the way around is likely to kill the tree, you can use a specific tree girdling technique to increase fruit yield in a few species. Girdling for fruit production is a frequently used technique on peach and nectarine trees. Should you girdle fruit trees? Read on for more information about tree girdling techniques.

What is Tree Girdling?

Tree girdling for fruit production is an accepted practice in commercial peach and nectarine production. Girdling involves cutting out a thin strip of bark from around the trunk or branches. You have to use a special girdling knife and make sure you don’t cut deeper than the cambium layer, the layer of wood just under the bark. This type of girdling interrupts the flow of carbohydrates down the tree, making more food available for fruit growth. The technique should only be used for certain fruit trees.

Why Should You Girdle Fruit Trees?

Don’t start girdling fruit trees randomly or without learning the proper tree girdling technique. Girdling the wrong trees or the wrong way can kill a tree quickly. Experts recommend girdling a tree to enhance fruit production only for two types of fruit trees. These are peach and nectarine trees. Girdling for fruit production can result in bigger peaches and nectarines, more fruit per tree, and an earlier harvest. In fact, you may be able to start harvesting fruit 10 days earlier than if you don’t use this tree girdling technique. Although many home gardeners do not perform girdling for fruit production, it is a standard practice for commercial producers. You can try these tree girdling techniques without damaging your trees if you proceed with caution.

Tree Girdling Techniques

In general, this form of girdling is done about four to eight weeks prior to harvest. Earlier varieties may need to be done four weeks after blooming, which is about four weeks before their normal harvest. Also, it is advised that you not thin peach or nectarine fruit and girdle the trees simultaneously. Instead, allow at least four or five days between the two. You’ll need to use special tree girdling knives if you are girdling for fruit production. The knives remove a very thin strip of bark. You only want to girdle tree branches that are at least 2 inches (5 cm.) in diameter where they attach to the tree trunk. Cut the girdle in an “S” shape. The beginning and ending cuts should never be connected, but finish about an inch (2.5 cm.) apart. Do not girdle trees until they are four years old or older. Pick your timing carefully. You should perform the tree girdling technique before pit-hardening during April and May (in the U.S.).

Not all peach trees have the typical green foliage. There are actually peaches with reddish purple leaves that tend to be on the smaller side, thus more easily harvested. These dwarf purple leaf peach trees add pizzazz to any landscape with the added bonus of fruit. If you’re interested in growing a purple leaf peach, read on to find out about purple leaf peach care.

What are Red or Purple Leaf Peach Trees?

There are several peach (Prunus persica) varieties that sport reddish purple leaves. The most common and readily available is ‘Bonfire.’ Bonfire is a dwarf purple leaf peach tree that only grows to about 5 feet in height (1.5 m.) in five years and the same distance across, making it almost more of a shrub than a tree.

This cultivar is hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9 and is tolerant of temperatures down to -10, possibly -20 degrees F. (-23 to -29 C.). These particular peaches with reddish purple leaves are derived from the rootstock of ‘Royal Red Leaf,’ a taller red leaf variety.

As mentioned, the beauty of growing a dwarf purple leaf peach is the easy accessibility of harvest and its hardiness. Unfortunately, by all accounts, the fruit is rather flavorless eaten fresh, but it is edible and can be made into preserves or baked into pies.

Bonfire is also an excellent choice for those with smaller gardens or as a container grown tree. The beautiful lance-shaped leaves of Bonfire retain their color from spring to fall.

Caring for Purple Leaf Peach Trees

Caring for purple-leaf peach trees is the same as for peaches with green foliage. Like all peaches, Bonfire is susceptible to quite a number of insect pests and diseases.

Plant Bonfire peach trees in full sun in nutrient-rich, well-draining soil with a pH of about 6.5 in the spring or fall. Mulch around the tree to help retain moisture and cool roots, taking care to keep the mulch away from the trunk.

Peach trees, in general, are fairly high maintenance requiring watering, pruning, consistent feeding, and spraying for pests and disease. Purple-leaf peach care is much the same, albeit easier to access and treat, prune or harvest due to its smaller height.